On the 8th, in the morning, it having cleared up, I began my march early, and it appeared as if we had just gotten into the region of game; for the herds of buffalo, elk, goat [antelope], and deer surpassed credibility. I do solemnly assert that, if I saw one, I saw more than 9,000 buffaloes during the day's march.
On the 10th, in the evening, after a severe day's march, I encamped on the bank of a large creek [probably Little Arkansaw[V-8]], and discovered for the first time on the river a species of wood differing from the cotton tree. I assure you the sight was more agreeable than a person would imagine; it was like meeting with an old acquaintance from whom I had been separated a length of time. I even began to think myself approximating civilized settlements, although I was just entering on the hunting-ground of the Osages.
The buffaloes and goats disappeared on the 12th, or rather we had passed their range and entered that of the deer only. Our marches were through rich narrow bottoms from 150 to 200 yards wide.
On the 15th, discovering timber sufficiently large to form canoes, I felled a couple of trees, and commenced splitting out. I would have proceeded further by land, but as my men were almost worn out with fatigue, and as the game grew scarce, I conceived it most advisable to rest for a short time, and kill my winter's store of meat. This I effected by the 24th, and on the same day completed the canoes. On the 25th I again attempted the navigation of the river, but was as unfortunate as at first; for my boat grounded, after floating a few hundred yards, and the men were consequently compelled to ply with their shoulders instead of their paddles.
The following day I passed the Negracka [read Ninnescah[V-9]], at whose mouth commence the craggy cliffs which line a great part of the shores of the Arkansaw.
On the 28th the provision canoe overset, and I lost nearly all my stock of meat; this accident was rendered the more distressing by an almost total loss of my ammunition, which unfortunately was in the same canoe.
On the 30th, I fell in with a band of Grand Osages, who were in pursuit of buffalo cows; the chief of the party insisted on my remaining with him a day, and sent out his young men to hunt for me. In the afternoon two Indians of the Osage nation joined us, with a horse and mule, and brought me a message from Tuttasuggy, or Wind, who it appeared was lying very ill, about 20 miles across the prairie, and wished to see me. As he was a particular favorite of mine, I left my canoes in charge of the men, and passed with a guide to the chief's temporary village. I found him extremely unwell, with what I conceived to be a dropsy, for his abdomen was very much swollen. He seemed gratified at the sight of me, and observed that he was poor and pitiful, for the reason that he was a friend to the Americans. He said that Chouteau, upon arrival at their villages last fall, had treated him like a child; had taken on to Washington his younger brother Nezuma, or Rain that Walks, and intended making him [Nezuma] chief of the nation; that Chouteau told him he [Tuttasuggy] was a "bad man," and an "American" [i. e., a friend of the Americans]; that the Spaniards were going to war with America, and in a short time would claim all this country again; and that he [Chouteau] prevented the traders from allowing credit, whereby his [Tuttasuggy's] family were much distressed—as I clearly perceived, for they were even destitute of a whole blanket.
This Nezuma, whom Chouteau took on to Washington last fall with his wife, I am better acquainted with than perhaps Mr. Chouteau himself. In the first place, I marched with him from St. Louis to his town, and he started with us to visit the Pawnees; but the mean and pitiful wretch got alarmed and sneaked off without even advising us of his departure. He has no more command in the village than a child, is no warrior, and has not even the power to control the will of a single man of his nation. Whether this youth is entitled to a grand medal, you may judge from the foregoing statement. Indeed, Sir, our grand medals have become so common that they do not carry with them the respect which they should. I recollect that one of the deputation who was at the seat of government, the year before last, came out with a large medal and an intermediate-sized one. On our arrival at the villages, I calculated on his acting a conspicuous part; but, to my utter astonishment, he was not permitted to sit among the chiefs, or even the warriors, at the council.
You well know, Sir, how particular the Spaniards, and the British especially, have been in their distribution of medals; and if I mistake not, an Iowa chief, who had been to the seat of government and there received a small medal, returned it in preference to giving up a large British medal which he valued more, because it was a certain distinguishing mark of a chief.