CHAPTER I.
ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEB. 27TH-MAR. 21ST, 1807.
Friday, Feb. 27th, 1807. In the morning I discovered that the Spanish lieutenant [Don Ignatio Saltelo] was writing letters addressed to the governor and others; on which I demanded if he was not going on with me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that he dare not go and leave any behind; that his companion [Don Bartolomé Fernandez] would accompany me to Santa Fe with 50 men, while he with the others would wait for the sergeant [Meek] and his party. I replied that he had deceived me, and had not acted with candor; but that it was now too late for me to remedy the evil.
We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the Rio del Norte [read Rio Conejos] five miles more, S. 60° W., when we went round through a chain of hills and bore off to the south. We proceeded nine miles further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream, which was now bearing nearly west toward [or east from] the main chain of the third chain of mountains [San Juan range]. We encamped on the opposite side. Intensely cold; obliged to stop frequently and make fires. Snow deep. Distance 15 [5 + 9 = 14] miles.[I'-1]
Feb. 28th. We marched late. One of the Frenchmen informed me that the expedition which had been at the Pawnees had descended the Red river 233 leagues, and from thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in search of my party. This was afterward confirmed by the gentleman who commanded the troops. He then expressed great regret at my misfortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, and offered his services in secreting papers, etc. I took him at his word, and for my amusement thought I would try him; so I gave him a leaf or two of my journal, copied, which mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to guard very carefully and give to me after the investigation of my papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw a herd of wild horses. The Spaniards pursued them and caught two colts, one of which the Indians killed and ate; the other was let go. We pursued our journey over some hills, where the snow was very deep, and encamped at last on the top of a pretty high hill, among some pines. We left the river, which in general ran about six, eight, and 10 miles to the left or east of us. Saw great sign of elk. Distance 36 miles.[I'-2]
Sunday, Mar. 1st. We marched early. Although we rode very hard we only got to the village of L'eau Chaud, or Warm Spring [Ojo Caliente], some time in the afternoon. The distance was about 45 miles. The difference of climate was astonishing; after we left the hills and deep snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no snow, and where vegetation was sprouting.
The village of Warm Springs, or Aqua [Agua] Caliente in their language, is situated on the eastern branch [bank] of a creek of that name,[I'-3] and at a distance presents to the eye a square inclosure of mud walls, the houses forming the walls. They are flat on top, or with extremely little ascent on one side, where there are spouts to carry off the water of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which, we were informed, had been but once in two years previous to our entering the country. Inside of the inclosure were the different streets of houses of the same fashion, all of one story; the doors were narrow, the windows small, and in one or two houses there were talc lights [window-panes of that material]. This village had a mill near it, situated on the little creek, which made very good flour. The population consisted of civilized Indians, but much mixed blood.
Here we had a dance which is called the fandango; but there was one which was copied from the Mexicans, is now danced in the first societies of New Spain, and has even been introduced at the court of Madrid.
This village may contain 500 souls. The greatest natural curiosity is the warm springs, which are two in number, about 10 yards apart, each affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be impregnated with copper, and were more than 33° above blood heat. From this village the Tetaus drove off 2,000 horses at one time, when at war with the Spaniards.
Mar. 2d. We marched late, and passed several little mud-walled villages and settlements, all of which had round mud towers of the ancient shape and construction, to defend the inhabitants from the intrusions of the savages. I was this day shown the ruins of several old villages which had been taken and destroyed by the Tetaus. We were frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into their houses to eat; and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen were conducted home by old men, who would cause their daughters to dress their feet, provide their victuals and drink, and at night give them the best bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought to my recollection the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me to sigh with regret at the corruption of that noble principle by the polish of modern ages.
We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente about 12 miles, where it joined the river of Conejos [Rio Chama[I'-4]] from the west. This river was about 30 yards wide, and was settled for 12 miles above its junction with the Aqua Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course from the village of that name. From where they form a junction it was about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern branch [read bank] of which was situated the village of St. John's [San Juan], which was the residence of the president priest of the province, who had resided in it 40 years.