Mar. 20th. Halted at ten o'clock, at a salt lake. Marched until two o'clock; halted for the day.[I'-31] Vegetation began to be discoverable on the 17th, and this day the weeds and grass were quite high.
Mar. 21st. Marched in the morning and arrived at the passo [El Paso[I'-32]] del Norte at eleven o'clock, the road leading through a hilly and mountainous country. We put up at the house of Don Francisco Garcia, who was a merchant and a planter; he possessed in the vicinity of the town 20,000 sheep and 1,000 cows. We were received in a most hospitable manner by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the lieutenant-governor, and Father Joseph Prado, the vicar of the place. This was by far the most flourishing place we had been in. For a more particular account of its situation, population, etc., see Appendix to Part III. [now [Chap. IV.]].
CHAPTER II.
ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND COAHUILA, TO THE PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807.
Sunday, Mar. 22d. Remained at the Passo.
Mar. 23d. Mass performed; left the Passo at three o'clock, to Fort Elisiaira [Elizario], accompanied by the lieutenant-governor, the vicar, and Allencaster, a brother of the governor. Malgares, myself and the doctor took up our quarters at the house of Capt. [Blank], who was then at Chihuahua; but his lady and sister entertained us in a very elegant and hospitable manner. They began playing cards and continued until late the third day. Malgares, who won considerably, would send frequently $15 or $20 from the table to the lady of the house, her sister, and others, and beg their acceptance, in order that the goddess of fortune might still continue propitious; in this manner he distributed $500.
Around this fort were a great number of Appaches, who were on a treaty with the Spaniards. These people appeared to be perfectly independent in their manners, and were the only savages I saw in the Spanish dominions whose spirit was not humbled—whose necks were not bowed to the yoke of their invaders. With those people Malgares was extremely popular. I believe he sought popularity with them and all the common people, for there was no man so poor or so humble, under whose roof he would not enter; when he walked out, I have seen him put a handful of dollars in his pocket, and give them all to the old men, women, and children before he returned to his quarters; but to equals he was haughty and overbearing. This conduct he pursued through the whole provinces of New Mexico and Biscay, when at a distance from the seat of government; but I could plainly perceive that he was cautious of his conduct as he approached the capital [city of Chihuahua]. I here left a letter for my sergeant.
Mar. 24th. Very bad weather.
Mar. 25th. The troops marched, but Lt. Malgares and my men remained.
Mar. 26th. Divine service was performed in the morning, in the garrison, at which all the troops attended under arms. At one part of their mass, they present arms; at another, sink on one knee and rest the muzzle of the gun on the ground, in signification of their submission to their divine master. At one o'clock, we bid adieu to our friendly hostess, who was one of the finest women I had seen in New Spain. At dusk arrived at a small pond made by a spring which arose in the center, called the Ogo mall a Ukap, and seemed formed by providence to enable the human race to pass that route, as it was the only water within 60 miles on the route. Here we overtook Sergeant Belardie with the party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, who had left us at Fort Elisiaira, where we had received a new escort. Distance 20 miles.[II'-1]