"The distance between Michilimackinac and the settlement at the bottom of Green bay is calculated to be 80 leagues. On leaving Michilimackinac there is a traverse of five miles to Point St. Ignace [in Mackinac Co., Mich.], which is the entrance into Lake Michigan. Four leagues from Michilimackinac is an island of considerable extent, named St. Helens [or Helena], which may be seen from that place on a clear day. The shore [of Lake Michigan] from Michilimackinac to Point du Chene [Pointe au Chêne, Oak Point], which is a league distant from the island, is rocky; and from this point to the island of Epouvette, which is a very small one near the banks of the lake, is high and covered with pine; the soil is very barren. From this island to the river Mino Cockien [Milakokia] is five leagues. Two small islands are on the way, and a river where boats and canoes may take shelter from a storm. The river Mino Cockien is large and deep, and takes its rise near Lake Superior. From this to Shouchoir [Pointe Seul Choix, in Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is ten leagues. The shore [along by Points Patterson, Scott, and Hughes] is dangerous, from the number of shoals that extend a great way into the lake. This rock [or point], called Shouchoir, is an excellent harbor for canoes, but its entrance, when the wind blows from the lake, is difficult; but when once in, canoes and boats may lie during any storm without unlading. A custom prevails here among the voyagers for everyone to have his name carved on the rocks the first time he passes, and pay something to the canoe-men. From this to the river Manistique [Monistique, at Epsport, Schoolcraft Co., Mich.] is five leagues. This is a large river; the entrance is difficult, from a sand-bank at its mouth, and the waves are very high when the wind blows from the lake. At certain seasons sturgeon are found here in great numbers. The banks of this river are high and sandy, covered with pine. It takes its rise [in part] from a large lake [of the same name], and nearly communicates with Lake Superior. From this to the Detour [Pointe de Tour (Turning Point), end of the peninsula in Delta Co., between Baie de Noc and Lake Michigan] is 10 leagues [passing Point Wiggins, Pointe au Barque, and Portage bay]. The shore is rocky, flat, and dangerous. Here begins the Traverse, at the mouth of Green bay. The first island is distant from the mainland about a league, and is called the Isle au Detour [now Big Summer island]; it is at least three leagues in circumference. There are generally a few Sauteaux lodges of Indians on this island during the summer months. From this to Isle Brule [Gravelly island] is three leagues. There are two small [Gull] islands from these to Isle Verte [St. Martin's island], and it is two leagues to Isle de Pou [Washington island], called so from the Poutowatomies having once had a village here, now abandoned. In the months of May and June there is a fishery of trout [Salmo (Cristivomer) namaycush], and they are taken in great quantities by trolling. There are also whitefish [Coregonus clupeiformis] in vast numbers. The ship channel is between this island and Isle Verte. Thence to Petit D'Etroit [Détroit] to the mainland is three leagues, where some lodges of Ottawas and Sauteaux raise small quantities of corn; but their subsistence, during the summer months, chiefly depends upon the quantities of sturgeon [Acipenser rubicundus] and other fish, with which the lake here abounds. From Petit D'Etroit [the strait between Washington island and the mainland of Door Co., Wis., in which are Detroit, Plum, and Pilot islands] to the mainland is three leagues, and is called the Port de Mort [Porte des Morts], from a number of Reynard canoes having been wrecked at this place, where everyone perished. The shore is bold and rocky [Hedgehog Harbor, Death's Door Bluffs, Sister Bluffs, etc.]. From this it is four leagues to the Isle Racro [Horseshoe island, in Eagle bay], which is a safe harbor, inaccessible to all winds. From this to Sturgeon bay is eight leagues. The shore is bold and rocky [Eagle Bluff, Egg Harbor, etc.], and several large [Chambers, Green, and the small Strawberry, and Hat] islands lie a few miles distant. A few Sauteaux families raise corn here and reside during the summer season. Trout and sturgeon are here in great numbers. Sturgeon's bay is two miles across and about four leagues in length, and communicates by a portage [now a canal] with Lake Michigan, near Michilimackinac. Distant from the lake about two leagues is the Isle Vermillion [off Little Sturgeon bay]. Here were a few years ago a number of Fols Avoin inhabitants, who were accustomed to raise corn; but for what reasons they have left this place I cannot learn. From this is 13 leagues to the entrance of Fox river. On leaving Isle Vermillion, the woods and general appearance of the country begin to change, and have a very different aspect from the more northern parts of this lake [i. e., Green bay]. A small river called Riviere Rouge [Red river, and town of same name, in Kewaunee Co.] falls into the lake [Green bay], about halfway between Isle Vermillion and La Baye [La Baie;[VII-7] location of Green Bay, seat of Brown Co.]. On approaching La Baye, the water of the latter [lake, i. e., Green bay] assumes a whiter appearance, and becomes less deep. A channel which winds a good deal may be found for vessels of 50 and 60 tons burden; loaded vessels of these dimensions have gone up Fox river to the French settlement [of La Baie, site of Depere], opposite which is the Fols Avoin village [present site of Nicollet], which consists of 10 or 12 bark lodges. A great number of Sauteaux, and some Ottawas, come here in the spring and fall. Three leagues from La Baye [present Green Bay] is a small village [below present Little Kaukauna] of the same nation; and there is another three leagues higher, at the portage of Kakalin [Little Rapids[VII-8]]. This portage is a mile long; the ground even and rocky. There is a fall of about ten feet, which obstructs the navigation. For three leagues higher are almost continual rapids, until the fall of Grand Konimee [vicinity of present Kaukauna], about five feet high. Above this, the river opens into a small lake, at the end of which is a strong rapid, called Puant's rapid [now Winnebago rapids], which issues from a lake of that name [i. e., Lake Winnebago, in Winnebago Co.[VII-9]]. This lake is 10 leagues long, and from two to three wide. At its entrance [where are now Menasha and Neenah, Winnebago Co.] is another Puant village, of about the same number of lodges, and at this end is a small river, which, with the interval of a few portages, communicates with Rock river [of Wisconsin and Illinois]. About midway between the two Puant villages is a Fols Avoin village, on the south [-east] side of the lake [in Calumet Co.], of 50 or 60 men. Five leagues from the entrance of the lake, on the north [-west] side, Fox river falls in [at Oshkosh, Winnebago Co.], and is about 200 yards wide. Ascending two leagues higher, is a small Fols Avoin village, where is a lake [Lac Butte des Morts] more than two leagues long; and about a league above this lake the river de Loup [Wolf river, after flowing through Poygan lake] joins Fox river near a hill [and town] called the But de Mort [Butte des Morts], where the Fox nation were nearly exterminated by the French and Confederate Indians. The rivers and lakes are, at certain seasons, full of wild rice. The country on the borders of this [Fox] river is finely diversified with woods and prairies. Any quantity of hay may be made, and it is as fine a country for raising stock as any in the same latitude through all America. From the But de Mort to the Lac a Puckway[VII-10] is 28 leagues. Here is another Puant village, of seven or eight large lodges. This lake is three leagues long; four leagues above it Lac de Bœuf [Buffalo lake] begins, which is also four leagues long; this is full of wild rice, and has a great many fowl in their season. From Lac de Bœuf to the forks [confluence of the Necha river with Fox river], which is five leagues from the portage of the Ouiscousing, and 10 leagues above the forks [??], is a very small lake, called Lac Vaseux [Muddy lake], so choked with wild rice as to render it almost impassable. The [Fox] river, although very winding, becomes more and more serpentine on approaching the portage, and narrows so much as almost to prevent the use of oars. The length of the portage to the Ouiscousing [river, at present town of Portage, Columbia Co.] is two miles; but when the waters are high, canoes and boats pass over loaded. Here the waters at that time separate, one part going to the Gulf of Mexico, and the other to that of St. Lawrence. In wet seasons the portage road is very bad, the soil being of a swampy nature. There is for nearly halfway a kind of natural canal, which is sometimes used, and I think a canal between the two rivers might be easily cut [Wis. Cent., and C., M., and St. P. R. R. to Portage now]. The expense at present attending the transport is one-third of a dollar per cwt.; for a canoe $5 and a boat $8; this is not cash, but in goods at the rate of 200 per cent. on the sterling. There are at present two white men who have establishments there; they are much incommoded by the Puants of Rock river, who are troublesome visitors. The Ouiscousing is a large river; its bottom sandy, full of islands and sand-bars during the summer season. The navigation is difficult even for canoes, owing to the lowness of the water. From the portage to its confluence with the Mississippi is 60 leagues [about 40 leagues—112 miles]. The Saques and Reynards formerly lived on its banks, but were driven off by the Sauteaux. They were accustomed to raise a great deal of corn and beans, the soil being excellent. Opposite the Detour de Pin, halfway from the portage, on the south side, are lead mines, said to be the best in any part of the country, and to be wrought with great ease. Boats of more than four tons are improper for the communication between the Mississippi and Michilimackinac." ([Colonel Robert] Dickson.)
The present village of Prairie des Chiens was first settled in the year 1783, and the first settlers were Mr. Giard, Mr. Antaya, and Mr. Dubuque. The old village is about a mile below the present one, and existed during the time the French were possessed of the country. It derives its name from a family of Reynards who formerly lived there, distinguished by the appellation of Dogs. The present village was settled under the English government, and the ground was purchased from the Reynard Indians. It is situated about one league above the mouth of the Ouiscousing river. On the E. bank of the river there is a small pond or marsh which runs parallel to the river in the rear of the town, which, in front of the marsh, consists of 18 dwelling-houses, in two streets; 16 in Front Street and two in First Street. In the rear of the pond are eight dwelling-houses; part of the houses are framed, and in place of weatherboarding there are small logs let into mortises made in the uprights, joined close, daubed on the outside with clay, and handsomely whitewashed within. The inside furniture of their houses is decent and, indeed, in those of the most wealthy displays a degree of elegance and taste.
There are eight houses scattered round the country, at the distance of one, two, three, and five miles: also, on the W. side of the Mississippi [now Bloody Run, on which is N. McGregor, Clayton Co., Ia.] three houses, situated on a small stream called Giards [or Giard's] river, making, in the village and vicinity, 37 houses, which it will not be too much to calculate at 10 persons each. The population would thus be 370 souls; but this calculation will not answer for the spring or autumn, as there are then, at least, 500 or 600 white persons. This is owing to the concourse of traders and their engagees from Michilimackinac and other parts, who make this their last stage previous to launching into the savage wilderness. They again meet here in the spring, on their return from their wintering-grounds, accompanied by 300 or 400 Indians, when they hold a fair; the one disposes of remnants of goods, and the others reserved peltries. It is astonishing that there are not more murders and affrays at this place, where meets such an heterogeneous mass to trade, the use of spirituous liquors being in no manner restricted; but since the American has become known, such accidents are much less frequent than formerly. The prairie on which the village is situated is bounded in the rear by high bald hills. It is from one mile to three-quarters of a mile from the river, and extends about eight miles from the Mississippi, to where it strikes the Ouiscousing at the Petit Grey, which bears from the village S. E. by E.
If the marsh before spoken of were drained, which might be easily done, I am of the opinion it would render healthy the situation of the prairie, which now subjects its inhabitants to intermitting fevers in the spring and autumn.
There are a few gentlemen residing at the Prairie des Chiens, and many others claiming that appellation; but the rivalship of the Indian trade occasions them to be guilty of acts at their wintering-grounds which they would blush to be thought guilty of in the civilized world. They possess the spirit of generosity and hospitality in an eminent degree, but this is the leading feature in the character of frontier inhabitants. Their mode of living has obliged them to have transient connection with the Indian women; and what was at first policy is now so confirmed by habit and inclination that it is become the ruling practice of the traders, with few exceptions; in fact, almost one-half the inhabitants under 20 years have the blood of the aborigines in their veins.
From this village to Lake Pepin we have, on the W. shore [Iowa and Minnesota], first Yellow river [present name; at its mouth Council Hill, Allamakee Co., Ia.], of about 20 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi nearly due W.; second, the [Upper] Iowa river, about 100 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi about N. W.; third, the Racine [Root] river, about 20 yards wide, bearing from the Mississippi nearly W., and navigable for canoes 60 miles; fourth, the rivers Embarra [Embarras, or Zumbro] and Lean Claire [l'Eau Claire, now White Water or Minneiska], which join their waters just as they form a confluence with the Mississippi, are about 60 yards wide, and bear nearly S. W.
On the E. shore [Wisconsin], in the same distance, is the river de la Prairie la Cross [La Crosse river], which empties into the Mississippi at the head of the prairie of that name. It is about 20 yards wide, and bears N. N. W. We then meet with the Black [present name] river, a very considerable stream about 200 yards wide at its mouth, on which the traders frequently winter with the Puants and Fols Avoins. Next we pass the river of the Montaigne qui Trompes dans l'Eau [Rivière de la Montagne qui Trempe à l'Eau, now Trempealeau river], a small stream in the rear of the hill of that name. Then we find the Riviere au Bœuf [Buffalo river], about 30 yards wide, bearing N. by W. At the entrance of Lake Pepin, on the E. shore, joins the Sauteaux [Chippewa] river, which is at least half a mile wide, and appears to be a deep and majestic stream. It bears from the Mississippi nearly due N. This river is in size and course, for some distance up, scarcely to be distinguished from the Ouiscousing; it has a communication with Montreal river by a short portage, and by this river with Lake Superior.[VII-11] The agents of the N. W. Company supply the Fols Avoin Sauteaux who reside at the head of this river; and those of Michilimackinac, the Sioux who hunt on its lower waters.
In this division of the Mississippi the shores are more than three-fourths prairie on both sides, or, more properly speaking, bald hills which, instead of running parallel with the river, form a continual succession of high perpendicular cliffs and low valleys; they appear to head on the river, and to traverse the country in an angular direction. Those hills and valleys give rise to some of the most sublime and romantic views I ever saw. But this irregular scenery is sometimes interrupted by a wide extended plain which brings to mind the verdant lawn of civilized life, and would almost induce the traveler to imagine himself in the center of a highly cultivated plantation. The timber of this division is generally birch, elm, and Cottonwood; all the cliffs being bordered by cedar.
The navigation unto [Upper] Iowa river is good, but thence to the Sauteaux river is very much obstructed by islands; in some places the Mississippi is uncommonly wide, and divided into many small channels which from the cliffs appear like so many distinct rivers, winding in a parallel course through the same immense valley. But there are few sand-bars in those narrow channels; the soil being rich, the water cuts through it with facility.
La Montaigne qui Trompe dans l'Eau stands in the Mississippi near the E. shore, about 50 miles below the Sauteaux river, and is about two miles in circumference, with an elevation of 200 feet, covered with timber. There is a small [Trempealeau: see [note56], pp. 52-54] river which empties into the Mississippi in the rear of the mountain, which I conceive once bounded the mountain on the lower side, and the Mississippi on the upper, when the mountain was joined to the main by a neck of low prairie ground, which in time was worn away by the spring freshets of the Mississippi, and thus formed an island of this celebrated mountain.