Please see the [Transcriber’s Notes] at the end of this text.

HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS

A MODEL ENGINE CONSTRUCTED FROM DIAGRAMS SHOWN IN THIS BOOK

HANDICRAFT
FOR BOYS

BY
A. FREDERICK COLLINS

INVENTOR OF THE WIRELESS TELEPHONE
Author of “Inventing for Boys,” “The
Boys’ Book of Submarines,” etc.

WITH 185 ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS

NEW YORK
FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY
PUBLISHERS

Copyright, 1918, by
Frederick A. Stokes Company

All rights reserved

TO
MY NEPHEW AND NIECE
CLARENCE AND MAY ZEITLER

A WORD TO THE BOY

Your life, if you live it like the average boy, is split up into four parts and these are (1) eating, (2) sleeping, (3) working and (4) playing.

Now I haven’t a word to say about the first three phases of your existence for you will attend pretty well to the eating and sleeping ends, and your elders will quite likely see to it that you get enough work to do in and out of school.

But when it comes to playing I want to edge in, for this is a very important and often a sadly neglected part of your daily routine. There are three kinds of playing, namely (a) where your mind only is engaged as for instance at dominoes, checkers or chess, (b) where your body is chiefly in action as in gymnastics and outdoor games, and (c) where your mind and body are doing something more or less constructive.

This book which I have written for you deals with playing of the latter kind and while I don’t want you to get so interested in any of the various arts and crafts described to the extent of using all your spare hours doing it, still it is a great mistake not to have a hobby such as jig-sawing, printing, die-sinking or the like. There is something tremendously fascinating about visualizing things in your brain and then fashioning them with your hands and you ought to do it.

Different from other kinds of playing the by-products of these arts and crafts last a long time after your efforts have been spent upon them and it is a source of great pleasure to look at them once in a while and know that you made them with your own hands.

Not only is there the fun of planning and doing the things I have described, but you will at the same time pick up a lot of information and, what is of far more value, your brain and eyes and hands will learn to work together like a dynamo direct connected to an engine, and then you can depend on them to serve you well whenever the occasion may arise.

A. Frederick Collins.

“The Antlers,”
Congers, N. Y.

CONTENTS

ILLUSTRATIONS

HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS

CHAPTER I
CARPENTRY WORK AND CABINET MAKING

Did you ever think about what you’d do if you were shipwrecked on a tropical island like Robinson Crusoe?

Well, if you had a good, strong pocket-knife with you it wouldn’t be so terribly bad and in a few months’ time you’d have fashioned all the things you’d need to furnish a three-room palmetto bungalow.

To be sure your furniture wouldn’t be very highly finished but it would be awfully artistic and while in a civilized community it might be looked upon as a rare exhibit of savage workmanship, it would serve you nobly and well in your island home.

But you don’t have to be marooned on a lonely isle or limited to the use of a jack-knife to show your prowess as a worker in wood. All you need to do is to get some out of the way room where there is plenty of light for a workshop and buy a few good tools to work with and you’ll take as keen a pleasure in making useful things with your own hands as Robinson Crusoe did.

The Tools You Need.

—It is a great mistake to go out and buy a cheap chest of tools of whatever size for while there is always a large number of tools in it they are usually of a very poor quality.

If you can afford to buy a chest of good tools and will get them of a regular tool supply house you can then buy a chest of tools safely. Now to make any ordinary piece of woodwork you don’t need many tools but each one should be the very best, for therein half the pleasure lies.

The Kind of Tools.

—The tools used for cabinet making, as the finer kinds of joinery are called, are exactly the same as those used for carpentry though they are usually kept a little sharper and there should be a few more of them.

All the tools you will need at first are shown in [Figs. 1] and [2] and these are (1) a cast-steel, adze-eye, bell-faced hammer[1] weighing about 9 ounces, which is a regular carpenter’s hammer. (2) A mallet, made of hickory, with a 2¹⁄₂ inch face and try to get one in which the handle goes clear through the head and is wedged in.

[1] The Ohio Tool Company makes good hammers.

(3) Four saws,[2] namely (a) a 16 inch crosscut saw—usually called a handsaw—which is used for sawing off boards across the grain, (b) a 20 inch rip-saw, for sawing with the grain so that a board can be sawed lengthwise, (c) a back saw or miter saw as it is sometimes called; it is about 12 inches long and has about 20 teeth to the inch so that it makes a very fine and smooth cut. (d) A compass saw; it has a narrow, tapering blade about 10 inches long and is used to cut out holes in boards, and to cut disks, or wheels of wood. The blade of a keyhole saw is thinner and narrower than a compass saw and, hence, smaller holes and shorter curves can be cut with it than with a compass saw.

[2] Disston saws are the kind to get.

Fig. 1. some useful wood working tools

(4) A miter box (pronounced mi′-ter) is a little trough of wood formed of a bottom with two sides screwed to it but without a top or ends. The sides of the box have saw-cuts in them, or kerfs as they are called, at angles of 45 and 90 degrees so that strips of wood, molding and the like can be sawed accurately across, or mitered, to make a corner joint.

(5) Three planes[3] and these are (a) a block plane for small light work; (b) a smoothing plane which is a little longer and has a handle and is set fine, that is the bit, or blade is finely adjusted for finishing work; and (c) a jack-plane, which is a large plane used for planing off rough surfaces.

[3] I like Stanley planes the best.

(6) Three chisels,[4] or firmer chisels as they are called. These are regular flat, bevel-edged carpenter’s chisels and the blades should be ¹⁄₈, ¹⁄₄, and ¹⁄₂ inch wide, respectively.

[4] Buck Brothers are noted for their chisels.

(7) Three gouges,[5] or firmer gouges, to give them their full name. These gouges are simply chisels with curved cutting edges so that a rounded groove can be cut in a board. Get them with blades having ¹⁄₄, ³⁄₈ and ¹⁄₂ inch regular sweep, as the curve of the cutting edge is called.

[5] Buck Brothers’ gouges are also good.

Fig. 2. a few more common wood working tools

(8) A brace and five auger bits.[6] A brace and bit, as you know, is a tool to bore holes in wood with. You ought to have five bits and get them ¹⁄₄, ⁵⁄₁₆, ³⁄₈, ⁷⁄₁₆ and ¹⁄₂ an inch in diameter.

[6] When you buy auger bits get the genuine Russel Jennings.

(9) A maple or a boxwood rule; this should be a regular, 2-foot, four fold carpenter’s rule. (10) A marking gauge; the bar of the gauge is graduated in 16ths of an inch and the adjustable head of one good enough to work with is fitted with a brass thumb screw.

(11) An iron bound try-square with a 6, or better, a 9-inch blade. This is used not only to make measurements with but to try whether a thing is square or not, hence its name.

(12) Two screw drivers, one for small and the other for large screws. (13) Two double cut gimlets, one ¹⁄₈ and the other ³⁄₁₆ inch in diameter; these are useful for making holes for starting screws and the like.

(14) Four hand screws, or clamps as they are more often called; these are made of wood and are used to clamp two or more pieces of wood together when they are being bored or after they are glued. The jaws should be about 7 inches long and they should open at least 4 inches wide. They only cost a quarter apiece.

(15) A nail set; this is a steel punch for driving the head of a nail below the surface of the wood without denting it.

(16) A Washita oil-stone is the right kind to sharpen wood-working tools on; a stone ¹⁄₂ or ³⁄₄ inch thick, 2 inches wide and 4 or 5 inches long will be large enough and you should make a box with a cover to keep it in and so protect it from the dust.

Fig. 2m. a clamp often comes in handy

(17) A sewing machine oil can filled with sewing machine oil, or any other good, light lubricating oil, is needed for sharpening your tools.

(18) A small can of Le Page’s liquid glue, or if you want to make your own glue then get a glue-pot and brush. You can buy a ¹⁄₂ pint can of liquid glue for a quarter or less, or you can buy a cast iron, water-jacketed glue pot which holds a pint for about 40 cents. Get a small round bristle brush for a glue brush.

Some Hints on Using Tools.

—Since I have used tools ever since I was old enough to hold a hammer I can easily tell you just how you should handle them but to become a skilled workman you must be willing to do the rest and that is to practice.

How to Hold a Hammer.

—When you use a hammer, grasp the handle a couple of inches from the free end and hold it so that it will swing freely and easily in your hand and keep your hand and wrist above the level of the nail or whatever it is you are pounding; this takes the jar off of your arm and makes the work of using it surer and less tiresome. Never use a hammer on wood-work of any kind.

When you use a mallet as for driving chisels hold it rather close to its head, and need I tell you never to use a wooden mallet to drive nails with.

How to Use a Saw.

—Hold the wood to be sawed with your left hand—I am taking it for granted that you are righthanded; put all of the fingers of your right hand through the hole in the handle of the saw with your thumb on the other side and grip the handle firmly.

To start the saw put it on the mark where you want to saw the board and rest your thumb against the side of it to guide and steady it. Stand so that your eye will look down the back of the saw and don’t hold it too straight but at an angle of 45 degrees, that is half way between the horizontal and the vertical. Of course this does not apply to a back saw or a keyhole saw.

How to Use a Plane.

—Since a smooth plane has no handle lay your right hand over the tail of it and rest your left hand on the nose of it. Make short, quick strokes, pressing down on the plane as it goes forward and letting up on it a little as you draw it back.

A jack-plane has a handle on it something like a saw-handle and it is held like a saw with your right hand. If there is no knob on the nose of it hold it by laying your left hand across it. When using a jack plane give it a long stroke with even pressure and you will take off the same thickness of shaving all the way along.

How to Use Chisels and Gouges.

—To hold a chisel properly when cutting a groove grip it a couple of inches below the top of the handle with your left hand. Hold it with the beveled edge down from you and at a slight angle from the horizontal when making grooves, and at a slight angle from the vertical when cutting a mortise. Gouges are used in the same way as chisels.

How to Use a Brace and Bit.

—Set the sharp pointed end of the bit on the exact spot which is to be the center of the hole you are to bore. Hold the top handle of the brace with your left hand and the crank handle with your right hand. Have the top of the brace and the bit in a line with your eye and after you start to bore sight the bit on both sides of the hole you are boring to see that it is plumb—that is straight up and down.

How to Use a Rule.

—A carpenter’s rule is two feet long and divided into inches which are sub-divided again into 8ths and 16ths of an inch. In making measurements for joinery use the rule accurately or you will have misfits.

How to Use a Marking Gauge.

—This is a useful device to mark off one or more parallel lines on a board when one edge of it is straight.

The head slides on a wooden bar near one end of which is a steel point. The bar is graduated, that is, it is spaced off in inches and fractions of an inch like a rule and this makes it easy to set the head at any distance from the steel point.

When you have set the gauge hold the head against the edge of the board you want to mark, press the steel point against the surface and draw the gauge along with both hands when the point will scratch a line.

How to Use Hand Screws or Clamps.

—Put the pieces of wood that are to be held together between the jaws of the clamp and screw each screw up a little at a time so that the jaws are kept even, that is parallel.

How to Use a Nail Set.

—A finishing nail, that is, a nail having a head only a shade larger than the shank, is used for the finer kinds of woodwork. After you have driven in a nail until its head is within, say, ¹⁄₈ inch of the surface put the small, hollow end of your nail set on it, hold them together with your thumb and forefinger and drive it in by hitting the nail set with your hammer. After the head is sunk below the surface of the wood fill in the hole with a wood filler[7] when neither the nail nor the hole can be seen.

[7] To make a wood-filler, melt 1 ounce of white resin and 1 ounce of yellow wax in a pan and add enough ochre, which can be had in any color, to give it the color of the wood you are using. Stir it well and fill the dent while hot. This filler sticks well to the wood and when dry is very hard.

How to Use a Gimlet.

—After you have started a hole with a gimlet give it a complete turn and then half a turn back each time, for by so doing it will be far less liable to split the wood. Moisten the point of the gimlet and it will go in easier.

How to Drive Nails and Screws.

—Put a little common brown soap on the ends of nails and screws before you drive them in and you will find that it greatly lessens the friction.

How to Make a Glue-Pot.

—In these days of preparedness it is easier to buy ready made glue than it is to make it yourself; moreover it is just about as cheap, nearly as good and certainly far less trouble.

If you insist on making your own glue though, you must, first of all, have a glue-pot of the right kind to make it in. As I have already mentioned a glue-pot is made of two pots one inside the other. The outside pot is half filled with water and the inside one contains the glue.

You can improvise a glue-pot by using a tomato can for the outside pot and a pepper or mustard can for the inside pot. While it won’t look quite as shop-like as the kind you buy it will work just as well.

How to Make Good Glue and How to Use It.

—To make good glue, put some small pieces of genuine Peter Cooper or imported French Coignet glue into the inside glue pot in enough water to cover it. The outer pot is set on a fire and the water in it is brought to a boil. Stir the glue until it is all melted, when it should be about as thick as sewing machine oil. Skim off the scum that forms when the glue is boiling.

In using home-made glue have it very hot, for the hotter it is the stronger the joint it will make; further put it on both surfaces of the wood to be glued together very thinly as this also tends to make it stick tighter.

How to Sharpen Your Tools.

—You must have sharp tools if you expect to do a job like a carpenter or a cabinet maker.

About Sharpening Saws.

—This is done by filing the teeth with a hand saw taper file and the saw must be held in a saw-vise, that is a vise with long jaws which keep the saw from vibrating.

When the saw is filed the teeth must be set, which means that one tooth is bent one way a trifle and the next one to it is bent the other way and this is done with a tool called a saw set.

You ought to learn to file your own saws but it would be just as well, or a little better, to let a man who makes a business of filing saws do this job for you at first. Keep your saws oiled when not in use.

About Sharpening Chisels and Plane Bits.

—To sharpen a chisel or a plane bit put a few drops of oil on your Washita oil stone; hold the beveled edge of the tool on it and toward you, and see to it that it rests flat on the stone or you will make it rounding and the edge uneven.

When you get it at exactly the right angle grasp it firmly with both hands and then move it on the stone, forth and back, pressing down on it pretty hard as it moves away from you, and easing up on it as you draw it toward you.

When a chisel or a plane-bit gets a nick in it it must be ground out on a grind stone; if you haven’t one get a carpenter to do it for you, and when you get it back hone it, that is, sharpen it on your oil stone as before.

Get a Washita slip stone for the touching up gouges and instead of rubbing the edge of the gouge on the stone you rub the stone on the gouge. Never try to grind a woodworking tool on an emery wheel.

About Sharpening Auger Bits.

—An ordinary auger-bit seldom needs sharpening but when it does the cutter of it must be sharpened on the inside. A very fine file can be used for this purpose and then hone it with a slip of an oil stone.

How to Take Care of Your Tools.

—If your workshop is nice and dry you don’t need to put your tools away in a chest or a cabinet after you get through using them each time.

But if you use them only once in awhile it is a good plan to wipe them off with a piece of cheese-cloth moistened with oil and then lock them up where neither the baby can get them nor the hired girl from across the street can borrow them.

Removing Rust from Tools.

—Should any of your tools show signs of rusting you can get the rust off by rubbing some sweet oil on the rusted part; let it stand a couple of days and then rub it with very finely powdered unslacked lime.

To Etch Your Name on Tools.

—Clean the saw, or whatever tool you want to etch your name on, with a hot solution made by dissolving some sodium carbonate, commonly called soda, in water and be careful not to touch the cleaned surface with your fingers.

Next cover the cleaned surface with a thin layer of melted wax or paraffin and when it is cold scratch your name clear through it with a darning needle or some other sharp pointed tool so that the steel is exposed and the acid solution can act on it.

Put ¹⁄₂ an ounce of water into a glass stoppered bottle and add ¹⁄₂ an ounce of nitric acid.[8] Shake the solution well to mix it, dip a splint of wood into it and touch the scratched in letters with it until the acid covers the exposed parts of the steel.

[8] Nitric acid is a poison and you must so label the bottle containing it. Do not pour the water into the acid as it will splash about. Be careful not to get it on your clothes, but if you should, brush some ammonia over it as this will neutralize it and stop its action.

Let the acid solution stay on for a half or an hour and then wash it off with hot water, scrape off the paraffin and you will find your name etched on the steel exactly as you marked it.

Kinds of Wood to Use.

—There are many kinds of woods and each one has its special use in the arts and crafts. For carpentry and cabinet making you will probably not use more than half-a-dozen woods and these are, (1) pine; (2) cedar; (3) mahogany; (4) oak; (5) birch and (6) walnut.

Pine.

—This is a good wood for making things in general. There are two kinds of pine and these are (a) white pine and (b) yellow pine.

White pine is very soft, light and straight grained and it is a pleasure to use it even if it is only to sit on a fence and whittle it with a pocket knife. (I wish I could do it again.) You can make benches, boxes, toys and a hundred and one other things out of it but it is too soft for furniture and cabinet work.

Yellow, or Georgia pine has a fine yellow color, and a beautiful grain and together they are very showy. It is harder than white pine and while it can be used where the latter cannot, it is not nearly as easy to work.

Cedar.

—This fragrant wood belongs to the pine family and it is nearly as soft as pine. There are two kinds of cedar and these are (a) red cedar and (b) white cedar.

Red cedar is the kind you want to get to make things of; it has a pastel red color and a fragrant odor and it is this latter property that makes it a good wood for wardrobe chests, for moths do not like it. Next to white pine it is about the easiest wood to work and it is especially nice for making all small articles, such as glove boxes, handkerchief boxes and the like.

Mahogany.

—Also and likewise there are two kinds of mahogany and these are (a) Honduras mahogany and (b) Spanish mahogany.

Honduras mahogany is the kind that cigar boxes are made of and it is much softer and lighter in both weight and color than Spanish mahogany. You can make all manner of nice things of the better grades of Honduras mahogany and, curiously enough, it stays glued better than any other wood. It is nearly as easy to work as pine and it takes a fine polish.

Spanish mahogany is like Honduras mahogany in name only. It is a fine, close-grained dark-red-brown or yellow-brown colored wood, takes a very high polish and makes the finest kind of furniture.

Oak.

—This is a strong, beautiful wood and is useful in making all kinds of furniture the design of which should be plain.

It is not an easy wood to work and tools when used on it soon lose their cutting edges. But after you have made a piece of furniture you can depend on it that it will last to the end of time, nearly.

Birch.

—This wood belongs to the oak family but different from oak it is quite easy to work. It is light in color, fine grained, so tough and elastic it cannot be easily broken, and it takes a fine polish. For these reasons it makes nice furniture and it is a very good wood for turning.

It is from the bark of the birch that the Indians made their canoes, but this is a story of the long ago and we must stick to the present.

Walnut.

—This is a good old English wood; it is the finest kind of wood that can be used for ornamental furniture, gun stocks and wherever else a beautiful color and a showy grain are wanted. It is easier to work than oak and is a fine wood for carving.

How to Make Joints.

—The word joint in woodworking means the place where two or more pieces of wood are fitted together, and hence the words joiner and joinery in woodworking parlance.

Fig. 3. how edge joints are made

There are two chief kinds of joints and these are, (1) where two flat surfaces are fixed to each other, and (2) where the edges of two boards meet to form a corner. Though there are many ways to make both kinds of joints I shall only tell you about half-a-dozen which you will find the most useful for your needs.

Edge Joints.

—There are three easy ways to make flat, or edge joints and these are (a) the square, or butt joint; (b) the lap-joint and (c) the matched joint, all of which are shown in [Fig. 3].

In the square joint the edges of the boards are simply butted together and nailed, screwed or glued. This joint is very weak unless the abutting ends are fastened to something else.

In the simplest form of lap-joint the edge of one board is laid on top of the other board and these are nailed or otherwise fastened together. A neater lap joint is made by cutting away half of the edge of each end of the boards so that when they are fitted and fixed together the surfaces of the boards at the joints are even and smooth.

A better joint than the lap-joint is made by planing a tongue on the edge of one board and a groove in the other. To do this easily, neatly and quickly you need a rabbet plane and as this is quite a costly tool, you can get along very well without it by using the lap-joints.

Corner Joints.

—There are five corner joints which you should know about and these are (a) the butt, or square joint; (b) the lap, or rebated joint; (c) the mitered corner pieced joint; (d) the common dove-tail box joint, and (e) the regular dove-tail joint, pictures of all of which are shown in [Fig. 4].

Now when you can saw a board off straight, plane it true and make a good joint you will have small trouble in making anything in wood that you want to make.

Fig. 4. how corner joints are made

About Working Drawings.

—When most boys—to say nothing of the majority of men—start to make something they simply knit their eyebrows (not high-brows) and think out how it will look in the concrete—that is when it is all done and ready to use.

Then they go ahead and begin to saw up the lumber and put the pieces together. The result is that when the object is finished it looks very different from the thing they so proudly pictured in their mind’s eye. Now the right way to build what you want and have it look as it ought to is to make a working drawing of it.

To do this draw a picture of it to a scale, of say 1 inch to the foot; that is, if it is to be 4 feet long draw it 4 inches long. The drawings I have made of the [work-bench] and the [tool box] which follow will show you how to make simple working drawings and the last part of Chapter III explains it all in detail, so read it carefully.

Things for You to Make.

—When you have your workshop ready, your tools at hand, the foregoing ideas of woods in your mind and know about simple working drawings you can go ahead and make things and your first job will probably be to make a bench.

Fig. 5. an easily made work bench

How to Make a Work Bench.

—Go to a lumber yard or a planing mill and get one 2 × 2 scantling 12 feet long for the legs, and two 2 × 2 scantlings for the cross bars and the side bars; the middle cross bar can be any kind of a thick piece of wood. If you can’t get 2 × 2 scantlings get 2 × 4’s and have whichever size you get planed smooth on all sides.

At the same time get three boards 1 or 2 inches thick, 10 inches wide and 6 feet long for the top of the bench and two boards 1 inch thick, 10 inches wide and 4 feet long for the tool board. Saw the scantlings up so that you will have four pieces for the legs 2 feet 9 inches long; four cross-bars 2 feet 6 inches long, and two side bars 3 feet 6 inches long.

Build up the frame of the bench first as shown in [Fig. 5]; then nail, or better, screw a cross-bar to the middle of the 6 foot boards, lay them on top of the frame and nail or screw them to the end cross bars. When you have the bench thus far along put on the vise.

Fig. 6. a wood vise for your work bench

A wood-worker’s vise as shown at A and B in [Fig. 6] can be bought for $3.50 on up to about $9.00. The jaws are about 4 inches wide and 12 inches long and they open nearly 12 inches. All you have to do to fix it to your bench is to screw the rear jaw to the front left hand edge of the top of the bench as shown in [Fig. 5].

The tool board is not an absolute necessity but it is a great convenience. To make it saw off two boards 4 feet long, nail them together with a couple of strips of wood—these are called cleats—and round off one end as shown in [Fig. 5]. Screw the tool board to the back of the bench and you are all ready to make things in wood.

Fig. 7a. a carpenter’s tool chest

How to Make a Tool Chest.

—Either birch or chestnut are good woods to make your tool chest of. Make the box, that is the lower part of the chest, and the lid for it of ³⁄₄ inch thick stuff; have the box 9 inches high, 12 inches wide and 30 inches long and have the lid 3 inches high, 12 inches wide and 30 inches long. Screw the boards together as nails will not hold tight enough. See [A Fig. 7].

Screw a strip of wood inside the chest for the tray to rest on; put two or three hinges on the box and lid and be particular how you do it or the lid will not fit evenly on the chest. Fasten a staple on front of the box in the middle near the top and a hasp on the cover so that you can put on a padlock, or better you can put on a regular chest lock which is handier and makes a neater looking job. To keep the lid from falling back when you open it, screw a piece of chain about 8 inches long to it and the box and this will serve as a check.

Fig. 7b. the tray for your tool chest

Finally make a tray of ¹⁄₂ or ⁵⁄₈ inch thick wood as shown at [B in Fig. 7]. Make the ends 6 inches high and 6 inches long and saw out the handle grips with your keyhole saw. Make the sides and partitions 4¹⁄₂ inches high and 28¹⁄₂ inches long, screw them together and put on the bottom. By making the tray narrower than the chest you can slide it back and forth and so get such tools out of the bottom as you may need without lifting the tray each time you do so.

Note.—You can buy any tool I have described in this chapter of any hardware dealer or tool supply company in your town or if one is not at hand Hammacher, Schlemmer and Company, corner of Fourth Avenue and 13th Street, New York City, will supply you with just what you want.

CHAPTER II
SCROLL SAWING, WOOD TURNING, WOOD CARVING, ETC.

As you may have observed, it takes a pretty good sized room for a shop and quite a lot of tools to do carpenter work and cabinet making.

Now if you find it hard to get these things don’t be discouraged because there are other kinds of woodwork that take neither a whole room nor a chest of tools, and the chief ones of these are (1) scroll sawing; (2) wood turning; (3) wood carving and (4) pyrography.

Not only are the pursuits of these trades pleasant but they are profitable because whether the art objects you make are useful or not the work trains your mind, your eyes and your hands at one and the same time and when you get these three factors working harmoniously together you have achieved something that will be valuable to you as long as you live.

All About Scroll Sawing

Scroll sawing, fret sawing and jig sawing all mean precisely the same thing and that is sawing interlaced and ornamental designs out of wood, or fretwork as it is called.

With a scroll saw frame costing 50 cents and a few thin boards you can saw out the most exquisite patterns and make the most dainty articles imaginable. There is more pleasure, of course, in using a regular foot power scroll saw, but you can do just as good work with a hand frame and though it takes a little longer you’ll enjoy it immensely.

Scroll Sawing Outfits.

—A scroll saw is a very simple piece of apparatus and it consists of a fine saw fixed in a frame, or otherwise supported, so that it can be moved up and down, and it is narrow enough to turn sharp curves.

Now scroll saws, as I shall call them, are of three kinds and these are (1) those worked by hand; (2) those run by foot-power, and (3) those operated by other kinds of power.

Fig. 8. a simple and cheap scroll sawing outfit

A Cheap Scroll Sawing Outfit.

—The simplest and cheapest scroll sawing outfit consists of (a) a scroll saw frame; (b) a dozen saw blades, and (c) an awl, all of which are shown in [Fig. 8]. If it is your idea to saw out brackets and other fancy knickknacks you ought to have a sheet of (d) impression paper,[9] (e) some [sheet designs],[10] and (f) some fancy wood.

[ [9] This is ordinary carbon paper such as is used for typewriting.

[10] See [Fancy Woods] for Scroll Sawing in this chapter.

The scroll saw frame is a bent iron or steel bar, usually nickel-plated, which forms a frame about 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. A handle is fitted to one end and a clamp to each end so that the saw blade can be held tight in the frame.

How to Use the Scroll Saw.

—The first thing to do is to put a saw blade in the frame and be sure to have the points of the teeth down, that is toward the handle.

Next mark the design you intend to saw out on a thin piece of wood[11] planed nice and smooth on both sides, hold it flat on the edge of the table with your left hand, grip the saw handle with your right hand and hold it so that the saw blade is vertical as shown in [Fig. 9].

[11] Both can be bought of L. H. Wild, 171 Avenue A, New York City.

You are ready now to begin to saw out the design; set the sawblade on the line, jig the saw frame up and down and be careful to give it even and smooth strokes. You will be surprised to find how easily it works. When you are sawing turn the wood and not the saw frame—the latter can be turned a little sometimes to advantage—and hold it so that the back of the frame is always toward you and the blade should move forward but very slightly.

Fig. 9. the right way to use a hand scroll saw

When you want to saw a piece out of the inside of the board, take your awl and make a hole in it by giving it a twisting motion to prevent it from splitting the wood. Now unscrew one of the clamps of your saw frame and put the free end of the saw through the hole, clamp it in the frame and start to saw again.

A Few Other Helpful Things.

—A Hand Saw-Table.—You can saw out your designs much more easily and neatly if you use a hand saw table as shown in [Fig. 10]. This is a board about 4 × 6 inches on the sides with a V sawed out of one end and a clamp screwed to the bottom of it.

Fig. 10. a hand scroll saw table

This makes the end of the board project out from the table it is clamped to, raises the wood you are sawing from the surface of it and gives you a firm grip on it. You can easily make a saw table or you can buy one for 50 cents.[12]

[12] The Millers Falls Company, Millers Falls, Mass., makes them and nearly all tool companies sell them.

Files for Scroll Work.

—To do a really neat job at scroll sawing you should have a set of scroll saw files. These files are long and thin and are made round, oval, knife edge, half round and three cornered as shown at [A in Fig. 11].

A Twist Drill Stock.

—A twist drill stock and a drill, see [B, Fig. 11], is far better for making holes in wood than an awl and as they only cost 50 cents you should have one. You can make a hole in a ¹⁄₈ inch thick board in the ¹⁄₁₀₀th part of a minute.

A Pair of Pliers.

—A pair of flat-nose, side cutting pliers is a very useful tool which will go a long way toward making your scroll sawing efforts a success. A pair is shown at [C in Fig. 11].

A Small Hammer.

—And finally get a small hammer to drive brads with as pictured at [D].

Scroll Saw Blades.

—There are two kinds made and these are known as (1) Star saw blades and (2) German saw blades.

	A TWIST DRILL STOCK
SCROLL SAWYER’S FILES			SAW BLADES (HALF SIZE)
FLAT NOSE, SIDE CUTTING PLIERS		A SMALL HAMMER		THE TEETH OF A SAW ARE PLACED WIDE APART TO CUT CLEAN

Fig. 11. some necessary scroll sawing tools

As one is as good as the other by all means buy Star blades. The sizes from 1 to 10 are shown at [E in Fig. 11], but three smaller and two larger sizes are made. The smaller sizes cost 10 cents a dozen and the larger sizes 15 cents a dozen. The spacing of the teeth on the blade is shown at [F].

How to Trace a Design on Wood.

—You can draw your own designs or buy them printed ready to use. In either case you must transfer the design to the surface of the wood you are going to saw.

To do this lay a sheet of carbon paper as typists call it, or impression paper as jig sawyers call it, with the prepared side next to the wood; lay the design sheet on top of it; and fasten the corners of the sheets to the wood with glue, or, better, with thumb tacks.[13]

[13] Thumb tacks are short, flat headed tacks used by draughtsmen.

Now take a sharp, hard lead pencil or a piece of pointed bone and trace the outline of the design. When you have it all done you will find that the design is plainly marked in black lines on the wood—that is except where you forgot to trace it.

Designs for Scroll Sawing.

—Designs in great variety can be bought of H. L. Wild, Publisher, 171 Avenue A, New York City. Besides glove boxes, handkerchief boxes, bird cages, clock cases, thread and thimble stands, photo frames and a thousand and one other pretty and useful articles you can get patterns for doll furniture, alphabets and mechanical designs like the horizontal engine shown at [A in Fig. 12] and the fire engine shown at [B].

Foot-Power Scroll Saws.

—There are several makes of foot-power scroll saws on the market and the prices of these range from $4.50 to $25.

The Cricket Scroll Saw.

—This is the cheapest foot-power scroll saw that you can buy and is the one that sells for $4.50. It has a table that tilts which permits you to saw your work on a bevel—that is on a slant—so that you can inlay it with some other kind of wood or metal.

A—A HORIZONTAL STEAM ENGINE

B—A FIRE ENGINE

Fig. 12. mechanical masterpieces made with a scroll saw

This little machine weighs 17 pounds and is 33 inches high; it is made of lighter castings than the machines which follow but it will do just about as good work as the higher priced ones. [Fig. 13] shows what it looks like.

Fig. 13. the cheapest foot-power scroll saw made

The Lester Scroll Saw.

—This is a well made saw, has a cast iron frame and the arms of the saw frame and the pitman—that is, the rod which connects the crank wheel with the frame—are of ash.

The Lester has several very handy attachments and these are (a) an automatic dust blower, which blows the sawdust away from the line you are sawing on; (b) an adjustable lever saw clamp with a hinged jaw which prevents the saw blades from breaking; and (c) a drilling attachment.

Fig. 14. the lester scroll saw with turning lathe attachment

This saw, which is shown in [Fig. 14], costs $10.00, is 35 inches high and weighs in the neighborhood of 30 pounds. The lathe attachment costs $2.00 extra.

The Fleetwood Scroll Saw.

—This is the best and consequently the most expensive foot power scroll saw made. It has a swing of nearly 16 inches. It is fitted with a tilting table, a vertical drill and a blowing attachment. A scroll saw of this kind with a plain stand can be bought for $21.00, or one with a fancy stand, see [Fig. 15], can be had for $25.00.

Fig. 15. the fleetwood scroll saw

How a Foot-Power Scroll Saw Works.

—If you will look again at Figs. 13 and 14 you will see that the scroll saws shown have saw frames very like a hand saw frame. The lower part of the frame is connected with a crank on the end of a spindle, which has a small grooved wheel fixed to it, by a pitman or rod and the treadle is connected with the large drive wheel by another pitman; finally the drive wheel is belted to the small grooved wheel.

Now when you work the treadle with your foot it produces a reciprocating motion and this is changed by the pitman into rotary motion which it imparts to the drive wheel. Since the grooved, or driven, wheel is smaller than the drive wheel it revolves faster and this gives the pitman connected with it a very rapid rotary motion on one end but as it is pivoted to the frame which in turn is pivoted at the rear end it is changed into an up and down or reciprocating motion exactly like the treadle but many times faster.

The Fleetwood works a little differently, in that instead of a frame the pitman is connected with a metal block that slides in a guide. The lower end of the saw is fastened to the upper end of this sliding block and the top of the saw blade is fixed to the end of a long, curved spring whose elasticity tends to make it fly up.

This action keeps the saw blade always taut and pulls it up except when the pitman pulls the block down and the saw with it. This is the principle on which large power jig saws used in shops are worked.

How to Saw on a Foot-Power Scroll Saw.

—Lay the board you are going to saw flat on the table of the machine and put your finger tips of both hands on top of the board; when possible keep one hand on one side of the saw and the other hand on the opposite side of it.

Press down hard enough on the work to keep it on the table against the up strokes of the saw; as the top of the table is polished it is easy to slide the work around and keep the saw on the line. Run the saw at an even speed and do not feed the wood against the blade too fast.

TABLE OF SCROLL SAW WOODS

These woods can be bought of H. L. Wild, 171 Avenue A, New York City, or of J. Gabriel and Company, 672 Grand Street, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Fancy Woods for Scroll Saw Work.

—Fancy woods that are planed on both sides for scroll sawing can be bought in thicknesses of ¹⁄₁₆, ¹⁄₈, ³⁄₁₆ and ¹⁄₄ inch. Wood that is ¹⁄₈ inch thick is the best to use for all ordinary work.

The foregoing [list] gives the name, thickness and price of the chief common and fancy woods that are good for scroll sawing.

Trimmings for Boxes, Etc.

—Brass hinges, knobs, screws, drawer pulls, box hooks, French screws and wire nails, that is brads, catches, metal legs, small locks, escutcheons, turned moldings, etc., can be bought of the above dealers who specialize in scroll sawyer’s materials.

Turning in Wood

And now we come to another and highly fascinating kind of wood-work and this is to spin a stick of wood in a lathe and shape it with a chisel or gouge, or wood turning as it is called.

While the outfit you need to turn wood with costs more than for scroll sawing you will never forget the pleasure of rounding up of a bit of wood into a shapely form, no, not if you were to live a thousand years.

Get a Lathe First.

—It is far better to buy a lathe than to try to make one, that is if you expect to turn anything on it, for in the first place it is hard to get the things to make one with and in the second you can buy one for very little money.

How a Lathe is Made.

—A wood turning lathe consists of four principal parts, and these are (1) the headstock; (2) the rest; (3) the tailstock; (4) the bed and (5) the stand, the first three parts of which are shown in [Fig. 16].

Fig. 16. the chief parts of a turning lathe

The head stock is fixed to the bed of the stand; it is formed of a cone pulley mounted on a spindle in a frame. A spur center is screwed to the spindle and this holds the wood tightly in place while it is being turned. The rest, which is adjustable, is used to lay your turning tool on and so keep it in position. A long and short rest usually go with the better lathes.

The tailstock has two adjustments, the first of which allows it to be slipped back and forth on the bed and clamped at any point which gives a rough adjustment, and the second is a spindle which is threaded on one end and has a taper center, that is a sharp point on the other end. This allows the piece of wood which is to be turned to be set between the spur center of the headstock and the taper center of the tailstock.

These parts rest on the bed of the lathe and this in turn is mounted on a stand. The stand is fitted with a drive wheel and this is driven by a treadle with which it is connected by a pitman exactly like a foot-power scroll saw.