HOME-MADE TOYS
FOR
GIRLS AND BOYS
| BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL | ||
|---|---|---|
8vo. Cloth. Illustrated with hundreds of full-page and working drawings by the author and Norman P. Hall | ||
| THE BOY CRAFTSMAN | { { | Price net $ 1.60 Postpaid 1.82 |
| HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS | { { | Price net $ 2.00 Postpaid 2.25 |
| THE HANDY BOY | { { | Price net $ 1.60 Postpaid 1.82 |
| LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON | ||
|
Figs. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery-wagon Built of Cigar-boxes. (See page [192].) |
Copyright, 1915, BY
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD COMPANY
Published, August, 1915
Constructive ideas expel destructive ideas from the juvenile mind.
[INTRODUCTORY NOTES]
Through the author's handicraft volumes, and magazine and newspaper articles, thousands of boys and girls who never realized they could make their own toys, have succeeded in constructing models which would do credit to Santa Claus' master toy-makers.
The success of this new home industry has suggested the need of a volume devoted entirely to toy-making, and in Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys the author has brought together a large number of the toy ideas from his former handicraft volumes, and from his articles published in the Ladies' Home Journal, Woman's Home Companion, Good Housekeeping, the Boys' Magazine, and other publications, and he believes that as collected and arranged the material will be found a veritable gold-mine of toy-making information.
Go to any toy store and price the toys similar to those described within these covers, then estimate if you can how much the other toys you do not find would cost if manufactured, and you will discover that one hundred dollars would not cover their value. One splendid thing about these home-made toys is that the greater part of them require little more than the pick-up material found at home. Few boys and girls are given a one hundred dollar assortment of toys at a time, yet any one can own a collection of this value who is willing to spend the time necessary to follow the instructions given in this book. Probably, though, some of the toys will be wanted now, and the others one, two or three seasons hence, because, you see, the book is an all-the-year-round handy book with suggestions for every season. Some of the toys will be of especial interest to boys, yet girls who like what boys like will enjoy making them also.
Home-made toys are generally longer lived than store toys because the boy or girl who expends a certain amount of effort producing gives them better care. Home-made toys have a greater value than boughten ones because there is as much fun making them as playing with them. Doing something interesting, getting satisfying results out of the work, putting an idea into tangible form, and having a toy to show of which it can be said, "I made this all myself,"—these are the factors in toy-making so fascinating to boys and girls.
It is no less a child's nature to want to do that which is most pleasing to him, than an adult's, so why not encourage this wholesome activity of toy-making to which the child takes as readily as a duck takes to water? It trains the mind to think clearly, the hands to work cleverly, replaces destructive thoughts with constructive ideas, and, in making the boy or girl dependent upon himself or herself for toys, is invaluable in developing resourcefulness.
Recognizing how easily the child's interest is attracted and held by anything of a building nature, toy manufacturers have placed scores of so-called "construction sets" upon the market, but, though excellent as these outfits are, the toys they form are merely assembled, not really made by the boy or girl, and much of the value of making is lost. Exactly as good models as those assembled with "construction sets" can be made of pick-up materials, as chapters in this book show. In fact, some of the models in the manufacturers' instruction pamphlets—merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels and swings—are almost identical with home-made models devised long ago by the author for his readers. Furthermore, there are many, very many toys in Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys which are beyond the limited possibilities of "construction sets."
A. N. H.
Oak Park, Illinois,
May 31, 1915.
| PAGE | |
| Chapter I | |
| Home-made Windmills | [1] |
| The Paper Pinwheel—The Pinion-wheel Windmill— To mount the Pinion-wheel—The Four-blade Windmill—To mount the Windmill—The Eight-blade Windmill—The Hub—The Eight Blades—The Shaft—The Tail—To pivot the Windmill—To operate a Toy Jumping-Jack. | |
| Chapter II | |
| Home-made Kites | [9] |
| How to make a Malay—The Sticks—Framing the Sticks—Covering the Framework—Attaching the Bridle—Flying-line—The Box-kite—The Kite Sticks—The Side Frames—Covering for the End Cells—Assembling the Kite—Attaching the Bridle—A Good Hand Kite-reel—A Body Kite-reel. | |
| Chapter III | |
| A Home-made Model Aeroplane | [21] |
| Accuracy in Model Construction—The Most Successful Type of Model—The Fuselage— The Thrust Bearings—The Bow Hooks—The Main Plane—The Elevator—The Fin—The Propellers—How to prepare the Propellers—The Propeller Blank—The Propeller-shafts—The Motors—The Home-made Motor-winder—How the Egg-beater winds the Motors—Care in winding the Motors—Position to take for launching a Model. | |
| Chapter IV | |
| A Home-made Toy Motor-boat | [33] |
| How operated—The Hull Bottom—The Sides—The Deck—The Propeller—The Propeller-shaft— The Bearing Plate—The Thrust Bearing—The Rubber-band Motor—To wind the Motor—How to elaborate upon the Design and Construction. |
| PAGE | |
| Chapter V | |
| Home-made Toy Water-motors | [38] |
| A Varnish-can Water-motor —The Case—The Water-motor Wheel—The Eight Paddles—The Wheel Shaft—An Outlet—A Pulley-belt—Pulley-wheels—Connecting up the Water-motor—Another Water-motor—The Water-motor Wheel—The Wheel Supports—To mount the Wheel—The Pulley Wheel—The Water-motor Case. | |
| Chapter VI | |
| A Home-made Toy Railway | [47] |
| The Trolley-line—Supports for Trolley-line—Power for Operating—Railway—Tracks—The Cars—A Gondola Car—A Street Car—Other Cars—Operation of the Railway—A Station. | |
| Chapter VII | |
| Home-made Toy Elevators | [59] |
| A Toy Elevator that appears Magical in its Operation—Adapting Elevator to Toy Office Building—Floors—Partitions—The Elevator Car—The Elevator Guides—The Cables—The Counter-balance—The Smoke-stack—The Overhead Pulleys—How the Car operates—Ballast—To make the Car Rise—A Simple Control—Two Levers—An Outdoor Elevator—The Guide Supports—The Car—The Guides—The Counter-balance—The Lifting Cable—The Lowering Cable. | |
| Chapter VIII | |
| Home-made Mechanical Toys | [71] |
| The Simple Construction of Small Mechanical Toys—A Buzz-saw Whirligig—Operating the Whirligig—The Clog-dancer—A Toy Jumping-Jack—A Cricket-rattle—The Turtle Toy—To make the Turtle Crawl. | |
| Chapter IX | |
| Home-made Tops | [79] |
| Top Spinning on the South Sea Islands—Clock Wheel Tops—A Rug-tack Top—A Spool Top—A Spinning Top Race-track—A Shoe-polish Can Top—A Spiral Top—A Merry-go-round Top—How the Top Spins—Horses and Riders—A Flag. |
| PAGE | |
| Chapter X | |
| Home-made Clockwork Toys | [88] |
| The Necessary Materials—How to prepare the Clockwork—The Merry-go-round—The Standard—The Tent—The Tent-poles—The Horses—The Sleighs—The Shafts—The Girl Riders—The Boy Riders—The Platform—How to operate the Merry-go-round—Other Animals—A Miniature Ferris Wheel—The Standard—The Clockwork Motor—The Station Platform—The Wheel—Rims—Hubs—Spokes—Assembling the Wheel—The Cars—Axles—How to mount the Wheel—The Platform Steps—The "Flying Airships"—The Standard—The Mast—The Cars—Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork—An Electric Motor—An Automobile—The Frame—The Belt—Testing the Machine—The Cardboard Sides—The Wheels—The Mud-guards—The Lamps—The Steering-wheel—The Horn—The Brake—The Chauffeur—Painting the Machine—An Automobile Delivery Wagon—The Cardboard Sides—The Wheels—Other Portions—Painting the Wagon—A Clockwork Railway. | |
| Chapter XI | |
| Home-made Electrical Toy | [117] |
| An Electro-magnet Derrick—The Electro-magnet—A Home-made Switch—The Derrick—The Windlass—The Hoisting Cables—How the Derrick Works—A Toy Shocking Machine—The Induction-coil—The Primary-coil—The Secondary-coil—The Handles—An Interrupter—How the Interrupter Works—A Toy Electric Motor Truck—The Wheels—The Upper Shaft—The Belts—The Battery—The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid—Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil—The Seat and Canopy-top—The Seat-arms—The Steering-wheel—The Levers. | |
| Chapter XII | |
| A Home-made Toy Shooting Gallery | [140] |
| The Framework—The Circular Target—The Animal Targets—The Card-shooting Pistol—How to number the Targets—How to shoot at the Targets. | |
| Chapter XIII | |
| A Home-made Doll-house | [145] |
| The Building Material—The Floor Plans—The Partitions—The Elevator-shaft—The Side Walls—The Rear Wall—The Front Wall—The Windows—The Roof—The Chimney—An Elevator—The Car—The Guide-wires—The Pulleys—The Chain Cable—The Counter-balance—The Gable-ends—Spring-catches—The Stairway—Stringers—Treads and Risers—Newel-posts—Hand-rails—Balusters—The Front Steps—The Window Openings—The Window Glass—The Front and Rear Doors—The Outside Trimmings—The Interior Woodwork—Setting the Nail-heads—Painting. |
| PAGE | |
| Chapter XIV | |
| Furnishing the Home-made Doll-house | [156] |
| The Walls and Ceiling—Hardwood Floors—Carpets—Rugs—Window-shades—Lace Curtains—Portières—Pictures—A Cosey-corner—Buying Furnishings—Making Furniture. | |
| Chapter XV | |
| Furnishing the Home-made Doll-house | [160] |
| Dimensions of Stable—The First Story—The Roof—The Gable-end—The Stall Partitions—The Feed-troughs—Windows—Ladder to Hay-loft—Feed-hoist—The Drop-front—A Stable Door—Painting—If you prefer a Garage. | |
| Chapter XVI | |
| A Home-made Doll Apartment Building | [165] |
| A New Idea in Doll-houses—How the Three Units are arranged to form a Three-story Building or Six-room Apartment—Building Material—The Room Dimensions—The First Story Unit—The Second Story Unit—The Third Story Unit—The Door and Window Openings—The Bay Windows—The Joints between the Units—The Roof Construction—The Chimney—The Windows—The Front Door—The Inside Doorways—The Interior Trim—A Fireplace—Lighting Fixtures—Decorating—Painting the Outside Walls. | |
| Chapter XVII | |
| Home-made Doll Furniture | [174] |
| Metal Furniture—Miniature Mission Furniture—Material—Drawing the Patterns and Enlarging by Squares—The Chairs—The Settee—Tables—A Dining-room Table—A Sideboard—A Mirror—The Grandfather's Clock—Kitchen Furniture—The Beds—The Dresser—A Wash-stand—Finishing. | |
| Other Cigar-box Furniture | [187] |
| A Folding-bed—A Dresser—A Wardrobe. |
| PAGE | |
| Chapter XVIII | |
| Home-made Cigar-box Toy | [191] |
| Material—Cutting—An Express-wagon—A Cart—An Auto Delivery-wagon—A Jack-in-the-box—A Round-seated Chair—A Round Center-table—A Dining-table—A Square-seated Chair—A Doll's Cradle—Finishing the Cigar-box Wood. | |
| Chapter XIX | |
| Home-made Spool and Cardboard Toys | [196] |
| Material—A Baby Carriage—A Two-wheel Cart—A Toy Merry-go-round—A Teeter-board—A Doll Swing—A Sofa—A Chair—A Square Center-table—A Round Center-table. | |
| Chapter XX | |
| A Home-made Toy Mail-box | [205] |
| Playing Postman—Material for Mail-box—The Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Box—The Top—The Letter-drop—The Collection-drop—Reinforcing the Corners—Covering the Box—A Collection Schedule Card—How to hang up the Mail-box—A Mail-bag—The Way to play Post-office. | |
| Chapter XXI | |
| A Home-made Reflectoscope | [210] |
| The Working Principle of the Reflectoscope—Material for making One—The Lens Opening—Ventilator Holes—The Interior Arrangement—A Hood for the Ventilators—If Oil Lamps are Used—If Electric Light is Used—How to mount the Lens—Puttying Cracks—Painting the Inside of the Box—The Back Boards—The Picture Holder—How the Lens reverses Pictures—Adjustments. | |
Index | [215] |
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
(In addition to 346 text illustrations)
| Figs. 287 and 288. | An Auto Delivery-wagon built of Cigar Boxes ([Page 192]) | [Frontispiece] | |
| FACING PAGE | |||
| Fig. 48. | Launching the Toy Motor-boat | [34] | |
| Fig. 108. | The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in Himself Pull the String and Jack jumps comically | } } } | [72] |
| Fig. 114. Fig. 115. | Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it Chirp The Crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly-mould | } } | [76] |
| Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137. Fig. 138. | A Merry-go-round A Clockwork Motor A Ferris Wheel A Flying Airship | } } } } | [90] |
| Fig. 160. Fig. 161. | The Car Completed The Framework | } } | [104] |
| Fig. 220. Fig. 221. | The Home-made Doll-house Interior View of Doll-house | } } | [146] |
| Fig. 243. Fig. 244. | The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town How the Three Stories are arranged side by side to form a Six-room Apartment | } } } | [166] |
| Fig. 284. Fig. 285. | An Express-wagon A Cart. | } } | [192] |
| Fig. 289. Fig. 290. Fig. 291. Fig. 292. Fig. 293. Fig. 294. Fig. 295. | A Jack-in-the-box The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box A Round-seated Chair A Round Center-table A Dining-table A Square-seated Chair A Doll's Cradle | } } } } } } } | [194]-[195] |
| Fig. 325. Fig. 326. | The Home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door The Home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair-back | } } | [206] |
[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS]
| PAGE | ||
| Fig. 1. | The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make. | [1] |
| Fig. 2. | Diagram for Paper Pinwheel. | [2] |
| Fig. 3. | How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded. | [2] |
| Fig. 4. | A Pinion-wheel Windmill. | [3] |
| Fig. 5. | Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill. | [3] |
| Fig. 6. | A Four-blade Windmill. | [4] |
| Fig. 7. | Hub. | [4] |
| Fig. 8. | How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail. | [4] |
| Fig. 9. | An Eight-blade Windmill. | [5] |
| Fig. 10. | Spool Hub. | [6] |
| Fig. 11. | Blades. | [6] |
| Fig. 12. | Shaft. | [6] |
| Fig. 13. | Tail. | [6] |
| Fig. 14. | How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack. | [7] |
| Fig. 15. | How the Jumping-Jack is Supported. | [8] |
| Fig. 16. | Spool Hub. | [8] |
| Fig. 17. | A Malay Tailless Kite. | [9] |
| Fig. 18. | Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached. | [10] |
| Fig. 19. | Framework of Malay Kite. | [11] |
| Fig. 20. | Detail of Vertical Stick. | [12] |
| Fig. 21. | Detail of Bow-stick. | [12] |
| Fig. 22. | Detail of End of Bow-stick. | [12] |
| Fig. 23. | Raising the Box-kite. | [13] |
| Fig. 24. | The Box-kite. | [14] |
| Fig. 25. | Make Two Side Frames like this. | [14] |
| Fig. 26. | Cross-section of the Box-kite. | [15] |
| Fig. 27. | Detail of Diagonal Braces. | [16] |
| Fig. 28. | A Good Hand Kite-reel. | [17] |
| Figs. 29 and 30. | Details of Hand Kite-reel. | [18] |
| Fig. 31. | A Body Kite-reel. | [19] |
| Fig. 32. | Detail of Axle Support. | [19] |
| Fig. 33. | Detail of Cran. | [19] |
| Fig. 34. | Launching a Model Aeroplane. | [22] |
| Fig. 35. | Plan. | [23] |
| Fig. 36. | Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor). | [23] |
| Fig. 37. | Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model. | [24] |
| Fig. 38. | Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and Connections. | [24] |
| Fig. 39. | Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected to it. | [24] |
| Fig. 40. | Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model. | [26] |
| Fig. 41. | Detail of the Elevator Framework. | [26] |
| Fig. 42. | Detail of Fin. | [26] |
| Fig. 43. | The Wells Model Propeller. | [27] |
| Fig. 44. | How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller. | [27] |
| Fig. 45. | A Home-made Motor Winder. | [30] |
| Fig. 46. | The Kind of Egg-beater to Use. | [30] |
| Fig. 47. | How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding. | [30] |
| Fig. 48. | Launching the Toy Motor-boat. | [34] |
| Fig. 49. | The Completed Motor-boat. | [33] |
| Fig. 50. | Stern, with Motor in Place. | [33] |
| Fig. 51. | Diagram of Hull. | [34] |
| Figs. 52 and 53. | How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are Assembled. | [34] |
| Fig. 54. | Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat. | [36] |
| Figs. 55-59. | Details of Propeller. | [36] |
| Fig. 60. | Rubber-band Motor. | [36] |
| Fig. 61. | A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation. | [38] |
| Fig. 62. | The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor. | [39] |
| Figs. 63 and 64. | Sections through Water-motor Case. | [40] |
| Fig. 65. | The Completed Water-motor Wheel. | [41] |
| Figs. 66 and 67. | 66 and 67. Details of Water-motor Wheel. | [41] |
| Figs. 68-69. | How to Make a Water-tight Connection between Faucet and Water-motor. | [42] |
| Fig. 70. | A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a Wash-Basin. | [43] |
| Fig. 71. | The Water-motor Wheel. | [43] |
| Figs. 72 and 73. | Details of Water-motor Wheel. | [44] |
| Fig. 74. | Support for Water-motor Wheel. | [45] |
| Fig. 75. | Upright. | [47] |
| Fig. 76. | The Toy Railway in Operation. | [48] |
| Fig. 77. | Support for Trolley-line. | [48] |
| Fig. 78. | The Tracks. | [50] |
| Fig. 79. | A Top View of Car Truck. | [50] |
| Fig. 80. | Spool Wheels. | [51] |
| Fig. 81. | The Completed Car Truck. | [51] |
| Fig. 82. | [51] | |
| Fig. 83. | A Gondola Car. | [52] |
| Fig. 84. | Side View. | [53] |
| Fig. 85. | End View. | [53] |
| Figs. 86-94. | Details of Toy Street Car. | [55] |
| Fig. 95. | The Railway Depot. | [57] |
| Fig. 96. | A Toy Office Building with Elevator. | [60] |
| Fig. 97. | Section through Elevator Shaft. | [62] |
| Fig. 98. | Floors. | [63] |
| Fig. 99. | Partitions. | [63] |
| Fig. 100. | Front View of Elevator Shaft. | [64] |
| Fig. 101 and 102. | Elevator Car Details. | [64] |
| Fig. 103. | Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers. | [65] |
| Fig. 104. | An Outdoor Elevator. | [66] |
| Fig. 105. | Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables. | [67] |
| Fig. 106. | Elevator Car. | [69] |
| Fig. 107. | Counter-balance. | [69] |
| Fig. 108. | The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord. | [72] |
| Fig. 109. | The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in himself. | [72] |
| Fig. 110. | Pull the string and Jack jumps comically. | [72] |
| Fig. 111. | Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in [Fig. 108]. | [72] |
| Fig. 112. | Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in [Fig. 109]. | [73] |
| Fig. 113. | Details of Body of the Jumping-Jack shown in [Fig. 110]. | [74] |
| Fig. 114. | Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp. | [76] |
| Fig. 115. | The Crawling Turtle's shell Is a Jelly Mould. | [76] |
| Fig. 116. | Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown [Fig. 114]. | [76] |
| Fig. 17. | How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mould to Make the Turtle shown in [Fig. 115]. | [77] |
| Fig. 118. | The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which Propel them. | [77] |
| Figs. 119 and 120. | Clock Wheel Tops. | [80] |
| Fig. 121. | Upholstering Tack Top. | [80] |
| Fig. 122. | How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning. | [80] |
| Figs. 123 and 124. | Details of Spool Top. | [80] |
| Fig. 125. | A Shoe-polish Can Top. | [81] |
| Figs. 126-128. | Details of Shoe-polish Can Top. | [82] |
| Fig. 129. | A Spinning Top Race-track. | [83] |
| Fig. 130. | A Spiral Top. | [84] |
| Fig. 131. | Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top. | [84] |
| Fig. 132. | A Merry-go-round Top. | [85] |
| Fig. 133. | Detail of Merry-go-round Top. | [86] |
| Fig. 134. | How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform. | [86] |
| Fig. 135. | A Merry-go-round. | [90] |
| Fig. 136. | A Clockwork Motor. | [90] |
| Fig. 137. | A Ferris Wheel. | [90] |
| Fig. 138. | The "Flying Airships." | [90] |
| Fig. 139. | How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the Cigar-box Cover. (This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.) | [89] |
| Fig. 140. | Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round. | [91] |
| Fig. 141. | Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round. | [91] |
| Fig. 142. | The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-pole. | [91] |
| Fig. 143. | Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round. | [92] |
| Fig. 144. | Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs. | [93] |
| Fig. 145. | A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft. | [94] |
| Fig. 146. | Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders. | [95] |
| Fig. 147. | Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders. | [95] |
| Fig. 148. | How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached. | [95] |
| Fig. 149. | Standard for the Ferris Wheel. | [97] |
| Fig. 150. | Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris Wheel Standard. | [98] |
| Figs. 151 and 152. | How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of the Support for a Hub. | [98] |
| Fig. 153. | How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel. | [99] |
| Fig. 154. | The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub. | [99] |
| Fig. 155. | The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes. | [99] |
| Fig. 156. | A Spool Hub for the Wheel. | [99] |
| Fig. 157. | How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened Together. | [99] |
| Fig.158. | Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars. | [100] |
| Fig.159. | A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel. | [101] |
| Fig.160. | The Car Completed. | [104] |
| Fig.161. | The Framework. | [104] |
| Fig.162. | Top View of Wooden Frame. | [105] |
| Figs. 163-170. | Patterns for the Automobile Touring-car. | [108] |
| Fig. 171. | Chauffeur. | [109] |
| Fig. 172. | Cardboard Side of Automobile. | [109] |
| Fig. 173. | The Hood. | [110] |
| Fig. 174. | The Steering-wheel. | [111] |
| Fig. 175. | An Automobile Delivery Wagon. | [111] |
| Fig. 176. | An Electro-magnet Derrick. | [118] |
| Figs. 177-179. | The Electro-magnet. | [119] |
| Fig. 180. | How the Electro-magnet is Connected up. | [120] |
| Fig. 181. | A Home-made Switch. | [121] |
| Fig. 182. | Details of Switch. | [121] |
| Fig. 183. | Detail of Mast. | [122] |
| Fig. 184. | Detail of Pulley. | [122] |
| Fig. 185. | Detail of Boom. | [122] |
| Fig. 186. | Detail of Derrick Windlass. | [123] |
| Fig. 187. | Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine. | [125] |
| Figs. 188-191. | Details of Induction-coil. | [126] |
| Figs. 192 and 193. | Details of Shocking-coil Handles. | [129] |
| Fig. 194. | Interrupter for Shocking-coil. | [129] |
| Figs. 195-198. | Details of Interrupter. | [131] |
| Fig. 199. | A Toy Electric Motor Truck. | [132] |
| Fig. 200. | Top view of Electric Motor Truck. | [133] |
| Figs. 201-203. | Details of Axle and Belt Shaft. | [134] |
| Fig. 204. | Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in Series. | [135] |
| Fig. 205. | A Single Cell. | [136] |
| Figs. 206 and 207. | Details of Zinc and Carbon. | [136] |
| Fig. 208. | Plan of Motor Truck Bottom. | [137] |
| Fig. 209. | Section through Bottom. | [137] |
| Fig. 210. | Details of Seat and Canopy-top. | [138] |
| Fig. 211. | Pattern of Canopy-top. | [139] |
| Fig. 212. | The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery. | [140] |
| Fig. 213. | The Box Framework. | [141] |
| Figs. 214-215. | Details of Targets. | [142] |
| Fig. 216. | The Card-shooting Pistol. | [143] |
| Figs. 217-219. | Detail of Card-shooting Pistol. | [144] |
| Fig. 220. | The Home-made Doll-house. | [146] |
| Fig. 221. | Interior View of Doll-house. | [146] |
| Figs. 222-226. | Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions. | [147] |
| Fig. 227. | The Chimney. | [148] |
| Fig. 228. | Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs. | [149] |
| Figs. 229-232. | Details of the Elevator. | [149] |
| Fig. 233. | The Front Gable-end. | [152] |
| Figs. 234-237. | Details of Stairs. | [153] |
| Fig. 238. | Exterior of Stable. | [160] |
| Fig. 239. | Interior of Stable. | [161] |
| Fig. 240. | Front Gable-end. | [162] |
| Fig. 241. | Stall Partitions. | [162] |
| Fig. 242. | Ladder to Hay-loft. | [163] |
| Fig. 243. | The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town. | [166] |
| Fig. 244. | How the Three Stories are Arranged Side by Side to form a Six-room Apartment. | [166] |
| Fig. 245. | Plan of the Six-room Doll Apartment. | [166] |
| Fig. 246. | The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. | [167] |
| Fig. 247. | The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. | [167] |
| Fig. 248. | The Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. | [167] |
| Fig. 249. | In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, leave a Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a "Beam." | [168] |
| Figs. 250 and 251. | How the Removable Roof is Constructed. | [169] |
| Fig. 252. | How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made. | [169] |
| Fig. 253. | The Living-room Mantel. | [171] |
| Fig. 254. | Details of Mantel. | [171] |
| Figs. 255-258. | Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make Them. | [172] |
| Figs. 259-266. | Patterns for Furniture. | [177] |
| Fig. 267. | Chairs. | [178] |
| Fig. 268. | Chairs. | [178] |
| Fig. 269. | A Settee. | [179] |
| Fig. 270. | A Table. | [179] |
| Fig. 271. | Another Design. | [180] |
| Fig. 272. | A Side-board. | [181] |
| Fig. 273. | A Mirror. | [182] |
| Fig. 274. | A Grandfather's Clock. | [183] |
| Fig. 275. | A Bed. | [184] |
| Fig. 276. | Another Design. | [184] |
| Fig. 277. | A Dresser. | [185] |
| Fig. 278. | A Wash-Stand. | [186] |
| Fig. 279. | A Doll's Folding-bed. | [187] |
| Fig. 280. | Folding-bed (open). | [188] |
| Fig. 281. | Foot. | [188] |
| Fig. 282. | Dresser Completed. | [189] |
| Fig. 283. | A Doll's Dresser. | [189] |
| Fig. 284. | An Express-wagon. | [192] |
| Fig. 285. | A Cart. | [192] |
| Fig. 286. | Cross-section of the Express-wagon. | [192] |
| Figs. 287 and 288. | An Auto Delivery-wagon Built of Cigar-boxes. | [frontispiece] |
| Fig. 289. | A Jack-in-the-box. | [194] |
| Fig. 290. | The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box. | [194] |
| Fig. 291. | A Round-seated Chair. | [194] |
| Fig. 292. | A Round Center-table. | [194] |
| Fig. 293. | A Dining-table. | [194] |
| Fig. 294. | A Square-seated Chair. | [194] |
| Fig. 295. | A Doll's Cradle. | [194] |
| Fig. 296. | Pedestal of Center-table. | [194] |
| Fig. 297. | Leg of Dining-table. | [194] |
| Fig. 298. | Pattern for Cradle Rockers. | [195] |
| Fig. 299. | Doll Carriage. | [196] |
| Fig. 300-302. | Details of Doll Carriage. | [197] |
| Fig. 303. | Baby Carriage Hood. | [198] |
| Fig. 304. | Diagram of Hood. | [198] |
| Fig. 305. | Carriage Handles. | [198] |
| Fig. 306. | The Two-wheel Cart. | [199] |
| Figs. 307-309. | Details of Cart. | [199] |
| Fig. 310. | Merry-go-round. | [200] |
| Fig. 311. | Teeter. | [200] |
| Fig. 312. | Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter. | [200] |
| Fig. 313. | Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter. | [200] |
| Fig. 314. | Doll Swing. | [201] |
| Fig. 315. | Detail of Swing. | [201] |
| Figs. 316 and 317. | Details of Swing Seat. | [202] |
| Fig. 318. | Sofa. | [202] |
| Figs. 319-321. | Details of Sofa. | [203] |
| Fig. 322. | Chair. | [203] |
| Fig. 323. | Square Center-table. | [203] |
| Fig. 324. | Round Center-table. | [203] |
| Fig. 325. | The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to the Face of a Door. | [206] |
| Fig. 326. | The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to a Chair Back. | [206] |
| Fig. 327. | Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box. | [206] |
| Fig. 328. | Diagram for Making Top. | [206] |
| Fig. 329. | Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-drop. | [206] |
| Fig. 330. | Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-drop. | [206] |
| Fig. 331. | The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put Together. | [207] |
| Fig. 332. | Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of Letter-drop. | [207] |
| Fig. 333. | Ends of Letter-drop. | [207] |
| Fig. 334. | Front of Letter-drop. | [207] |
| Fig. 335. | Top, with Letter-drop Completed. | [207] |
| Fig. 336. | Diagram for Making Collection-drop. | [208] |
| Fig. 337. | How the Collection-drop is Folded. | [208] |
| Fig. 338. | The Collection-drop Hinged in Place. | [208] |
| Fig. 339. | The Complete Reflectoscope. | [210] |
| Fig. 340. | Detail of Ventilator Top. | [210] |
| Fig. 341. | Plan of Reflectoscope. | [211] |
| Fig. 342. | Cross-section of Reflectoscope. | [211] |
| Figs. 343 and 344. | Details of Lens Mounting. | [213] |
| Fig. 345. | View of Back of Reflectoscope. | [213] |
| Fig. 346. | Detail of Post Card Holder. | [213] |
HOME-MADE TOYS
FOR
GIRLS AND BOYS
HOME-MADE TOYS
No mechanical toy is more interesting to make, nor more interesting to watch in operation, than a miniature windmill. It is a very simple toy to construct, and the material for making one can usually be found at hand, which are two reasons why nearly every boy and girl at one time or another builds one.
The Paper Pinwheel shown in [Fig. 1] is one of the best whirlers ever devised. A slight forward thrust of the stick handle upon which it is mounted starts it in motion, and when you run with the stick extended in front of you it whirls at a merry speed.
Fig. 1.—The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make.
A piece of paper 8 or 10 inches square is needed for the pinwheel. Fold this piece of paper diagonally from corner to corner, both ways. Then open the paper, and with a pair of scissors cut along the diagonal creases, from the corners to within ½ inch of the center ([Fig. 2]). Next, fold corners A, B, C, and D over to the center, as shown in [Fig. 3], run a pin through the corners and through the center of the sheet of paper, drive the point of this pin into the end of the stick handle, and the pinwheel will be completed.
Fig. 2.—Diagram for Paper Pinwheel.
Fig. 3.—How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded.
The Pinion-wheel Windmill in [Fig. 4] may be made of cardboard or tin. A circular piece 10 or 12 inches in diameter is required. After marking out the outer edge with a compass, describe an inner circle about 1 inch inside of it; then draw two lines through the center at right angles to each other, and another pair at an angle of 45 degrees to these. These lines are shown by the heavy radial lines in [Fig. 5]. One-half inch from each of these lines draw a parallel line, as indicated by dotted lines in [Fig. 5]. The next thing to do is to cut out the disk, and cut along the heavy lines just as far as the lines are shown in the diagram ([Fig. 5]), and then to bend up the blades thus separated, to an angle of about 45 degrees, bending on the second set of radial lines (dotted lines in [Fig. 5]).
Fig. 4.—A Pinion-wheel Windmill.
You had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first, then a tin one afterwards, as cardboard is so much easier to cut. A pair of heavy shears will be necessary for cutting a tin wheel, and a cold chisel for separating the edges of the blades.
Fig. 5.—Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill.
To Mount the Pinion-wheel drive a long nail through the center, through the hole in a spool, and into the end of a stick. Then nail the stick to a post or a fence top.
The Four-blade Windmill shown in [Fig. 6] has a hub 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick ([Fig. 7]). This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees. Saw along these lines to a depth of 1¼ inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to fit in these slots.
Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the slots with nails.
Fig. 6.—A Four-blade Windmill.
Fig. 7.—Hub
Fig. 8.—How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.
With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill shaft, a stick 20 inches long ([Fig. 6]). The end opposite to that to which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to receive a tail ([Fig. 8]). The tail may be of the same size as the blades, though it is shown shorter in the illustration.
Mount the Windmill upon a post, pivoting its shaft at the balancing center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into the wind.
The Eight-blade Windmill in [Fig. 9] has a spool hub ([Fig. 10]), and blades made of cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard ([Fig. 11]). You will see by [Figs. 10] and [11] that the blades are nailed to the side of short spoke sticks, and the sticks are driven into holes bored in the spool hub. The hub turns on the rounded end of the shaft stick ([Fig. 12]), and the square end of this shaft is slotted to receive the fan-shaped tail ([Figs. 12] and [13]).
Fig. 9.—An Eight-blade Windmill.
For the Hub use a large ribbon-spool. You can get one at any drygoods store. Locate eight holes around the center of the spool at equal distances from one another, and bore these with a gimlet or bit, or cut them with the small blade of your jack-knife.
Cut the Eight Blades 6 inches long, 5 inches wide on their wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on their narrow edge. Prepare the hub sticks about ½ inch by ¾ inch by 4½ inches in size, and whittle one end pointed to fit in the hub ([Fig. 11]). Fasten the blades to the spokes with nails long enough to drive through the spokes and clinch on the under side. Glue the spokes in the hub holes, turning them so the blades will stand at about the angle shown.
Fig. 10.—Spool Hub. Fig. 11.—Blades. Fig. 12.—Shaft. Fig. 13.—Tail.
The Shaft should be made of a hard wood stick about ¾ inch by 1½ inches by 30 inches in size. Cut the round end small enough so the hub will turn freely on it, and punch a small hole through it so a brad may be driven through to hold the hub in place. Cut the slot in the square end with a saw.
Cut the Tail of the shape shown in [Fig. 13].
Pivot the Windmill upon the top of a post support, in the same manner as directed for the other windmills.
[Figure 14] shows how the toy windmill may be rigged up
Fig. 14.—How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack.
To Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack, by supporting the jumping-Jack on a bracket, and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill. You can make your jumping-Jack like the one in [Fig. 110], the details of which are shown in [Fig. 113].
Cut the upright of the bracket (A, [Figs. 14] and [15]) 14 inches long, and the crosspiece (B) 7 inches long. Nail A to B, and nail the jumping-Jack at its center to the end of B ([Fig. 15]). Fasten the triangular block (C) to the lower end of A, and then nail both A and C to the edge of the shaft at a point that will bring the string of the jumping-Jack a trifle beyond the windmill blades.
Fig. 15.—How the Jumping-Jack is Supported.
Fig. 16.—Spool Hub.
Fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end, in notches cut in the hub's flanges ([Fig. 16]), and connect the brad and Jack's string with a piece of wire or strong string. Then as the windmill revolves it will operate the toy in the manner indicated in [Figs. 14] and [15].
[CHAPTER II]
HOME-MADE KITES
The Malay tailless kite is probably the most practical kind ever invented. It will fly in a wind that the tail variety could not withstand, and it will fly in a breeze too light to carry up most other forms of kites. It is also a strong pulling kite, and can be used for sending aloft lanterns and flags. For the purpose of lifting, the pulling strength can be doubled by flying two Malays in tandem.
Fig. 17.—A Malay Tailless Kite.
How to Make a Malay. [Figure 17] shows a Malay kite in flight, [Fig. 18] a detail of the completed kite, [Fig. 19] the completed framework, and [Figs. 20], [21], and [22] the details for preparing the frame sticks.
The Sticks. This kite has a vertical stick and a bow-stick, each of which should be 40 inches long, about ¾ inch wide, and 3/8 inch thick, for a kite of medium size. In the cutting of the sticks lies half the secret of making a kite that will fly successfully.
Fig. 18.—Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.
Drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks, to fasten the framing-string to ([Figs. 20] and [21]), and notch the side edges of the bow-stick near each end for the attachment of the bow-string ([Figs. 21] and [22]).
The amount to bend the bow-stick is important. For a kite with a bow 40 inches long the distance between the string and stick should be 6 inches ([Fig. 21]). Use a strong twine for the bow-string, and tie it securely to the notched ends.
Framing the Sticks. Fasten the bow-stick at its exact center to the vertical stick, placing it 4 inches down from the top of the vertical stick, as indicated in [Fig. 19]. Drive a couple of brads through the two sticks to hold them together, and then reinforce the connection by wrapping the joint with strong linen thread, crossing the thread in the manner shown.
Fig. 19.—Framework of Malay Kite.
When the two sticks have been joined, connect their ends with the framing-string. Stretch this string from stick to stick, and tie securely to the end nails. Instead of the end nails, the sticks may be notched to receive the framing-string, but the nails are more satisfactory because the string can be tied fast to them and will not slip.
Covering the Framework. The strong light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so generally used makes an excellent covering for the framework. A few sheets can be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose. You will likely have to paste together two or more sheets to make one large enough. The paper should be placed on the outer face of the bow-stick, and should be allowed a little fullness instead of being stretched tight as on hexagonal tail kites. Lap the edges of the paper over the framing-string in the ordinary way of covering a kite.
Attach the Bridle at the intersection of the bow-stick and vertical stick, and at the lower end of the vertical stick ([Fig. 18]), and make it of the right length so when held over to one side it will reach to the end of the bow, as indicated in [Fig. 18]. Tie the flying line securely at the point A ([Fig. 18]); then the kite will be ready for its maiden flight.
Fig. 20.—Detail of Vertical Stick.
Fig. 21.—Detail of Bow-stick.
Fig. 22.—Detail of End of Bow-stick.
Flying-Line. The kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines is splendid for flying the Malay kite. If you cannot get some balls of this, be certain that what you do get can be relied upon, because it is provoking to lose a kite which you have taken a great deal of pains in making, through the breaking of the flying line.
The Box-kite. Of the more pretentious kites, none is as popular as the rectangular box-kite.
Box-kites may be purchased ready-made in a number of sizes, but they are not cheap, and it will pay any boy to take the time necessary to make one. While their construction requires considerable more work than the single-plane type of kite, it is not difficult.
Fig. 23.—Raising the Box-kite.
[Figures 23] and [24] show a kite of scientifically developed proportions. Pine, spruce, and whitewood are the best materials for
The Kite Sticks, though any strong, light-weight wood of straight grain may be used if easier to obtain. If you live near a lumber yard or planing-mill, possibly you can get strips of just the size you require from the waste heap, for the mere asking, or for a few cents get them ripped out of a board. If not, you will find it easy enough to cut them yourself with a sharp rip-saw.
The Side Frames. Cut the four horizontal sticks 3/8 inch thick and 3/8 inch wide, by 36 inches long (A, [Fig. 25]), and the four upright connecting sticks (B, [Fig. 25]) ¼ inch thick, ½ inch wide, and 10 inches long. Tack the upright sticks to the horizontal ones 6 inches from the ends of the latter, as shown in [Fig. 25], using slender brads for the purpose, and clinching the projecting ends. In fastening these sticks, be careful to set sticks B at right angles to sticks A.
Fig. 24.—The Box-kite.
After fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in [Fig. 25], lay them aside until you have prepared the cross-section of the kite.
Fig. 25.—Make Two Side Frames like this.
The Covering for the End Cells. A light-weight muslin or tough paper should be used for this material. Cheese-cloth will do if you give it a coat of thin varnish to fill up the pores and make it air-tight, after it has been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so commonly used is good covering material.
The cell bands for the kite illustrated should be 10 inches wide and 5 feet 9 inches long. If of cloth, they should be hemmed along each edge to prevent raveling and to make a firm edge. If of paper, the edges should be folded over a light framing-cord and pasted. Sew together the ends of the cloth bands, or paste the ends of the paper bands, lapping them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly 5 feet 8 inches, the proper measurement around the sticks of the finished kite.
Fig. 26.—Cross-section of the Box-kite.
Assembling the Kite. Slip the bands over the side frames, spread the frames to their fullest extent, and hold them in this position by means of sticks sprung in temporarily between upright sticks B. Then measure the proper length for the diagonal braces C ([Fig. 26]). These sticks should be notched at their ends to fit over the sticks A, as shown in [Fig. 27], and they should be a trifle long so they will be slightly bow-shaped when put in place. In this way the frames will keep the cloth or paper bands stretched tight.
Fig. 27.—Detail of Diagonal Braces.
The notched ends of the diagonals should be lashed with thread to keep them from splitting. Lashings of thread around the frame sticks A, as shown in [Figs. 25] and [Fig. 27], will keep the ends of the braces from slipping away from the uprights B, which is the proper position for them. Bind the braces together at their centers with thread, as shown in [Figs. 24] and [26]. Coat the lashings with glue after winding them, and the thread will hold its position better.
The cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each horizontal frame stick with two tacks placed near the edges of the bands.
There are several methods of
Attaching the Bridle, but that shown in [Fig. 24]4 is generally considered the most satisfactory. Of course, the kite is flown other side up, with the bridle underneath. The three-point attachment has cords fastened at the two outer corners of one cell, and a third cord to the center of the outer edge of the other cell; and the four-point attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners of the kite. The ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied at a distance of about 3 feet from the kite. It is a good plan to connect the ends to a fancy-work ring.
Fig. 28.—A Good Hand Kite-reel.
A Good Hand Kite-reel that can be held in one hand and operated by the other is shown in [Fig. 28]. Get a ½-lb. size baking-powder can for the winding-spool, locate the center of the cover and bottom end, and with a can-opener cut a hole 1 inch in diameter through each ([Fig. 29]). Then cut two wooden disks 5 inches in diameter for the spool flanges. These may be cut out of thin wood. If you do not wish to take the trouble to cut them round, just saw off the four corners diagonally, making the pieces octagonal. Bore a 1-inch hole through the center of each piece. Tack the can cover to the exact center of one disk, as shown in [Fig. 30], and the can to the exact center of the other. Then fit the cover on the can, and glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to keep the cover from working off, and the spool will be completed.
Figs. 29 and 30.—Details of Hand Kite-reel.
The axle upon which the spool turns is a piece of broom-handle 10 inches or so in length ([Fig. 30]). Bore two holes through it in the positions shown, for pins to keep the spool in its proper place. Wooden pegs can be cut for pins. For a winding handle, pivot a spool on the right-hand disk by means of a nail or screw. The inner flange of the spool handle may be cut off as shown in [Fig. 28].
Both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to bring a kite around into the wind, or to handle it when it pulls very strong, and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the ground, unless you have an assistant to give it to. This is where the advantage of
Fig. 31.—A Body Kite-reel.
Fig. 32.—Detail of Axle Support.
Fig. 33.—Detail of Crank.
A Body Kite-reel comes in. With it strapped about the waist, it will go wherever you go, and always be within easy reach. [Figure 31] shows one simple to make. The spool of this is made similar to that of the hand reel shown in [Fig. 28]. If, however, you wish a larger winding-spool, you can use a larger can than the baking-powder can—a tomato can or syrup can—and increase the diameter of the wooden flanges accordingly. Instead of the spool turning upon the broom-handle axle, the axle turns with the spool, so the spool must be fastened to the axle.
The axle supports A ([Figs. 31] and [32]) should be about 7 inches long, 4 inches wide at the wide end, and 2 inches wide at the narrow end. Cut the holes to receive the axle ends a trifle large so the axle will turn easily. Cut the connecting crosspieces B of the right length so there will be about ¼ inch between the ends of the spool and supports A.
Cut the crank stick C as shown in [Fig. 33], bore a hole for the axle end to fit in, bore another hole in the edge for a set-screw to hold the stick in place on the axle end, and pivot a spool in place for a handle. If the hole in the spool is too large for the head of the nail used for pivoting, slip a small iron or leather washer over the nail.
An old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping the kite-reel to your body. Fasten this to the ends of the axle supports A by nailing the strips D to them as shown in [Fig. 32].
[CHAPTER III]
A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE
Model aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite flying, and girls as well as boys have taken to building these unique air toys.
The model aeroplane requires more work than ordinary kite construction. It also requires more patience and greater accuracy, because each part of the little aircraft must be made just so, assembled just so, and "tuned-up" just so, to produce a model which will give a good account of itself. Of course your first model will probably not be perfect. But if you do your work correctly and carefully it will fly, and the experience you have acquired will make it possible to turn out a more nearly perfect second model.
Many types of model aeroplanes have been devised, but those of the simplest form of construction have made the best showing. The majority of record-breaking models have been of one type—a triangular framework, equipped with two planes, and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of rubber-strand motors. A most successful model of this type is shown in [Fig. 34], and described and illustrated on the following pages. This model has a distance record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of Illinois' aviation field at Cicero, Chicago, where it flew 16 feet beyond the fence of the 160 acre field. The model weighs but 5½ ounces, has 9-inch propellers of 27 inch pitch, and is in every essential a speed machine.
Fig. 34.—Launching a Model Aeroplane.
The first part of the model to make is the triangular
Fuselage, or motor base. This consists of two side sticks, splines, or spars (A, [Fig. 35]) of straight-grained white pine cut to the dimensions marked upon the drawing, with their bow ends beveled off for a distance of 1¼ inches, glued together, and bound with thread. The stern ends have a spread of 8 inches, and are braced at that distance by the separator B ([Fig. 35]). This separator is fastened flatwise between sticks A, and its edges are reduced as shown in the small section drawing of [Fig. 37] so they will offer less resistance to the air. This piece is fastened between sticks A with brads. Separators C, D, and E are of the sizes marked in [Fig. 35], and of the proper length to fit between side sticks A at the places indicated on the drawing. They are cut oval-shaped, as shown in the small section drawing in [Fig. 37].
Figs. 35 and 36.—Working-drawings of Model Aeroplane Designed and Built by Harry Wells.
This Model has a record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of Illinois' Aviation Field at Cicero, Chicago.
Before fastening the separators in position,
The Thrust Bearings for the propellers, and the end plates for connecting the wire stays, must be prepared. [Figure 38] shows a dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings, and [Fig. 37] shows how they are bound to the ends of sticks A with thread. These are cut out of brass, bent into the shape shown, and have a hole pierced through the folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through, another through one end for the brad to pass through that pins stick A to B, and another through the other end to fasten the end of the wire stays to. The small detail in [Fig. 37] shows the end plates for the wire stays. These are made no longer than is necessary for the connecting holes for the wire-stay ends. Pierce a hole through the center of each plate for the brad to pass through which fastens sticks A to the ends of the separators. The plates are bound to sticks A with thread.
Fig. 37.—Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model.
Fig. 38.—Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and Connections.
Fig. 39.—Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected to it.
The Bow Hooks support the bow ends of the rubber motor, and are made upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent V-shaped to fit over the ends of sticks A ([Fig. 39]). Bind the wire to the sticks with thread, coating the thread with glue to make it hold fast ([Fig. 37]).
The Main Plane has a framework built as shown in [Fig. 40], with the front or entering-edge, and the rear or following-edge, made of sticks of white pine or other light-weight wood, and the ribs and tips on the ends made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. The ends of the frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge, to receive the ends of the wire forming the tips, and the ends of these wires, and the laps of the wire ribs, are bound in position with thread, and the thread then coated with glue to hold it in position.
The Elevator, or front plane, has a framework made as shown in [Fig. 41]. Its entering-edge is a stick, and its following-edge, ribs, and end tips, are made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. You will notice by [Fig. 41] that the center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are bent up in the form of a flat loop. This loop rests against the under side of the fuselage, and gives the elevator its proper angle for stability ([Fig. 36]). The tips are bent up to add stability.
The frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china-silk, which may either be sewed or glued in place, and this is given a thin coat of shellac to make it air-tight and taut. The covering must be put on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as skin resistance—the resistance that the plane makes to the air while passing through it.
The main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage, and unlike the planes of the majority of models, are fastened to the under side of the fuselage. [Figure 36] shows the approximate position of the elevator. That of the main plane will vary under different air conditions, sometimes being placed over the separator C, and at other times closer to separator B than is shown in [Fig. 35]. Therefore, you must adjust your plane and elevator—this operation is known as tuning—to suit the condition of the atmosphere, until you find the positions where they will give the machine the greatest stability. A great factor in the successful flight of a model aeroplane lies in properly tuning the planes, both laterally and longitudinally, and of course the planes must balance at their centers, in order to make the machine balance properly.
Fig. 40.—Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model.
Fig. 41.—Detail of the Elevator Framework.
Fig. 42.—Detail of Fin.
The Fin directly over the center of the elevator ([Figs. 34] and [36]) is provided for stability, and may be used as a rudder by turning it slightly to one side or the other. It is made of No. 34 gauge sheet aluminum, cut to the form shown in [Fig. 42]. Its vertical edge is bent around a piece of heavy wire, as shown in the plan detail of [Fig. 42], and the lower end of the wire is fastened upright between the bow ends of sticks A.
Fig. 43.—The Wells Model Propeller.
The Propellers are the most difficult part of the model aeroplane to make. They must be very accurately cut, and must be of identical size and pitch. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance forward that it advances in one complete revolution.
[Figure 43] shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells' machine, which is 9 inches in length and has a 27-inch pitch. [Figure 44] shows
How to Prepare the Propellers. The pair must be opposites, that is, one must be of right-hand pitch and the other of left-hand pitch, or, in other words, the upper end of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to the right, and that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the left, when viewing them from the rear.
Fig. 44.—How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.
Step A consists in properly planing up a straight-grained block of white pine 1½ inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long, with its sides and ends straight and true, for
The Propeller Blank. Draw a line around the four faces of this block at the exact center of the length. Then on faces C and D, lay off a distance of ½ inch on the center-line, measuring from the edge of face B, for the thickness of the propeller-hub, and draw diagonal lines from the upper and lower left-hand corners of faces C and D to the end of the hub center-line (Step B). Then cut away the portions outside of these lines, as shown in Step C. Lay out the hub upon faces A and B of the block, with a ½-inch diameter, and bore a small hole through the center to receive the propeller-shaft (Step C). Draw diagonals from the corners to the center-line of the hub (Step D); then cut away the wood outside of these lines (Step E).
The next step (F) consists in laying out the form of the propeller blade upon all four sides and ends of the block, and Step G is the final one of cutting out the propeller, scooping out its blades concave on one side, and carving them convex on the opposite side. A very sharp knife must be used for cutting; and the work must be done slowly and carefully, because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller. The entering-edge of each blade is the almost straight edge, and should be cut very thin. The ends of the blades should also be cut thin, while the hub should be cut away as much as can safely be done without weakening the propeller.
When you have completed cutting the propellers, place them at their centers across the edge of a knife-blade, and if they do not balance perfectly, locate the trouble and correct it. Finish the work with fine emery-paper, and then shellac it. Some boys glue silk over the ends of their propeller blades, for a distance of ½ inch or so, to reinforce them and make them less likely to split.
The Propeller-shafts are made of heavy piano-wire, bent into a hook at one end ([Fig. 38]) to receive the rubber strands of the motor, and cut of the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing, through a glass bead, through the propeller, and then to bend over the side of the hub ([Figs. 37] and [38]). By bending over the end of the shaft against the hub, it is held securely in place.
The Motors consist of twelve strands of 1/8-inch flat rubber, each, and as these are 1 yard in length, exactly 24 yards of rubber are required. The rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and propeller-shafts, as the wire would quickly cut through the strands. Instead, small rings are bent out of wire, with pieces of small rubber-tubing slipped over the wire, and the ends of the rubber strands are looped through these rings and bound in place with thread ([Fig. 39]). The wire rings are then slipped on and off the hooks quickly. As light and heat cause rubber to deteriorate, you must remove the motors from the machine after use, pack away in a covered box, and keep in a cool place, in order to get the longest life possible out of the rubber.
It has been found that rubber motors can be wound much farther by lubricating them with glycerine. It is only necessary to put a few drops of the glycerine upon a clean cloth, and rub it over the outside strands; then wind the motors, and it will work over the surface of the inner strands until all parts are covered.
Fig. 45.—A Home-made Motor Winder.
Fig. 46.—The Kind of Egg-beater to Use.
Fig. 47.—How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding.
Of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal number of turns, in order to make the propellers work the same, and this is usually done with an ingenious winder made from an egg-beater, which winds both motors simultaneously.
The Home-made Motor-winder shown in [Fig. 45] is made from a Dover egg-beater ([Fig. 46]). To convert the egg-beater into a winder, it is necessary to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires on which the loops turn. Then bend the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks, and punch them to fit over the pivot wire ends, as before ([Fig. 45]). The ends of the pivot wires must be riveted to keep the hooks in position.
[Figure 47] shows
How the Egg-beater Winds the Motors. While an assistant supports the model by the propeller end, you remove the motor rings from the hooks on the bow of the fuselage, and slip them on to the hooks of the egg-beater. Then you turn the crank of the winder, counting the turns as you do so, and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish, slip off the motor rings, and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model aeroplane. Motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound one-thousand turns or more for each flight.
Wind the Motors Slowly, especially after the first row of knots begin, as it puts the rubber to the least amount of strain by doing this. Quick winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches, and uneven winding, of course, produces an uneven unwinding.
The propellers must be held after the motors have been wound, to keep them in check. [Figure 34] shows
The Position to Take for Launching a Model from the hand. The machine should not be thrown forward, as the movement would cause too great a disturbance of the air, resulting in the machine losing its stability, and probably upsetting. The best method is to give the model a slight push that will start it off at a speed a trifle under that produced by its propellers.
[CHAPTER IV]
A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT
The toy motor-boat shown in [Figs. 48] and [49] is propelled by a tin propeller run by a rubber-band motor. A handful of rubber-bands will cost only a few cents, and the rest of the working material can be picked up at home.
Fig. 49.—The Completed Motor-boat.
Fig. 50.—Stern, with Motor in Place.
Prepare the Bottom of the Hull out of a piece of wood 1 inch thick, making it of the shape and dimensions shown in [Fig. 51]. Be careful to curve the side edges the same. Use a saw for cutting out the piece, then smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper. The stern should be sawed off on a bevel as shown in [Fig. 52].
Fig. 51.—Diagram of Hull.
The Sides of the hull (B, [Figs. 52] and [53]) are thin strips 2½ inches wide. Nail one to one edge of the bottom block, then saw off the bow end on a line with the bow of the bottom block, and the stern end on the same slant as the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block. With one piece in position, nail on the second side and trim off its ends. If you have any difficulty in making a neat joint between the bow ends of sides B, take a piece of tin from a can, bend it around the bow, and tack it in place as shown in [Fig. 48]. The stern piece (C, [Figs. 53] and [54]) should be cut next, to fit the slanted ends of the sides.
Figs. 52 and 53.—How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are Assembled.
The Deck (D) extends from the bow almost to the center of the boat. Its top surface should taper in its length and curve from side to side. The piece may be whittled or planed to this shape. Fasten it with brads to the top edges of the sides of the boat.
Fig. 48.—Launching the Toy Motor-boat.
To Complete the Boat, go over the work carefully, trim off all projecting edges, drive nail heads beneath the surfaces, putty nail holes and cracks, and give the wood two coats of paint of whatever color you want to have the motor-boat.
The Propeller (E, [Fig. 54]) is cut from the side of a tin can. Cut a piece 3 inches long and ¾ inch wide, round its ends, and with the point of a nail pierce a hole through it each side of the center of the length of the piece ([Fig. 55]). To finish the propeller, it is only necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the shape shown in [Fig. 56].
The Propeller-shaft requires a short piece of wire with one end bent into a hook (F, [Fig. 56]). Stick the straight end of this shaft through one hole in the propeller, and the hooked end through the other hole, then twist the hooked end over on to the main part of the shaft, as shown in [Fig. 57]. Make a tight twist so the propeller will be held perfectly rigid on the shaft.
The Bearing Plate G ([Figs. 54] and [58]) supports the propeller. Cut it out of a piece of tin 1½ inches wide by 3 inches long, bend it in half crosswise to give it stiffness, and then bend it lengthwise to the angle shown so it will fit over the slanted stern of the boat. Punch two holes through the upper end for nailing the plate to the stern, and a hole at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through.
For a Thrust Bearing, slip a couple of beads over the propeller-shaft, between the propeller and bearing plate G. Probably you can find glass beads in your mother's button bag.
Fig. 54.—Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat.
Figs. 55-59.—Details of Propeller.
Fig. 60.—Rubber-band Motor.
After slipping the beads on to the shaft, and sticking the shaft through the hole in bearing plate G, bend the end of the shaft into a hook; then screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull, at the bow end (I, [Fig. 54]), and you will be ready for
The Rubber-band Motor. Rubber-bands about 1½ inches in length are best for the purpose. Loop these together end to end ([Fig. 60]) to form a strand that will reach from hook I to the hook on the propeller-shaft; then form three more strands of this same length, and slip the end loops of all four strands over the hooks.
To Wind the Motor, give the propeller about one hundred turns with your finger; then, keep hold of the propeller until you launch the boat.
There are many ways of elaborating upon the design and construction of this toy motor-boat, but, having given the necessary instructions for building a simple model, I am going to leave further development for you to work out. Here is an opportunity for you to use your ingenuity. Devise an adjustable rudder, add a keel, finish off the cockpit with a coaming, install a headlight made from a pocket flashlight—in fact, see just how complete a motor-boat model you can build.
[CHAPTER V]
HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS
You can own a water-motor like the one shown in [Fig. 61], because its construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials.
Fig. 61.—A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation.