Home Pork Making
	A complete guide for the farmer, the country butcher and the suburbandweller, in all that pertains to hog slaughtering, curing, preserving andstoring pork product— from scalding vat to kitchen table and dining room.
	By A. W. FULTON
	Commercial editor American Agriculturist and Orange Judd Farmer, assistedby Pork Specialists in the United States and England.
	New York and Chicago Orange Judd Company 1900

Of all the delicacies in the whole mundus edibiles, I will maintain roast pig to be the most delicate. There is no flavor comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp, tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted crackling, as it is well called—the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at this banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance—with the adhesive oleaginous—oh, call it not fat! but an indefinable sweetness growing up to it—the tender blossoming of fat—fat cropped in the bud—taken in the shoot—in the first innocence—the cream and quintessence of the child-pig’s yet pure food—the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal manna—or rather fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running into each other that both together make but one ambrosian result or common substance.—[Charles Lamb.

Copyright 1900
BY
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Hog killing and pork making on the farm have become almost lost arts in these days of mammoth packing establishments which handle such enormous numbers of swine at all seasons of the year. Yet the progressive farmer of to-day should not only provide his own fresh and cured pork for family use, but also should be able to supply at remunerative prices such persons in his neighborhood as appreciate the excellence and general merit of country or “homemade” pork product. This is true, also, though naturally in a less degree, of the townsman who fattens one or two pigs on the family kitchen slops, adding sufficient grain ration to finish off the pork for autumn slaughter.

The only popular book of the kind ever published, “Home Pork Making” furnishes in a plain manner just such detailed information as is needed to enable the farmer, feeder, or country butcher to successfully and economically slaughter his own hogs and cure his own pork. All stages of the work are fully presented, so that even without experience or special equipment any intelligent person can readily follow the instructions. Hints are given about finishing off hogs for bacon, hams, etc. Then, beginning with proper methods of slaughtering, the various processes are clearly presented, including every needful detail from the scalding vat to the kitchen baking dish and dining-room table.

The various chapters treat successively of the following, among other branches of the art of pork making: Possibilities of profit in home curing and marketing pork; finishing off hogs for bacon; class of rations best adapted, flesh and fat forming foods; best methods of slaughtering hogs, with necessary adjuncts for this preliminary work; scalding and scraping; the construction of vats; dressing the carcass; cooling and cutting up the meat; best disposition of the offal; the making of sausage and scrapple; success in producing a fine quality of lard and the proper care of it.

Several chapters are devoted to putting down and curing the different cuts of meat in a variety of ways for many purposes. Here will be found the prized recipes and secret processes employed in making the popular pork specialties for which England, Virginia, Kentucky, New England and other sections are noted. Many of these points involve the old and well-guarded methods upon which more than one fortune has been made, as well as the newest and latest ideas for curing pork and utilizing its products. Among these the subject of pickling and barreling is thoroughly treated, renewing pork brine; care of barrels, etc. The proper curing of hams and shoulders receives minute attention, and so with the work of dry salting bacon and sides. A chapter devoted to smoking and smokehouses affords all necessary light on this important subject, including a number of helpful illustrations; success in keeping bacon and hams is fully described, together with many other features of the work of home curing. The concluding portion of the book affords many interesting details relating to the various cuts of meat in the big packing houses, magnitude of the swine industry and figures covering the importance of our home and foreign trade in pork and pork product.

In completing this preface, descriptive of the various features of the book, the editor wishes to give credit to our friends who have added to its value through various contributions and courtesies. A considerable part of the chapters giving practical directions for cutting and curing pork are the results of the actual experience of B. W. Jones of Virginia; we desire also to give due credit to contributions by P. H. Hartwell, Rufus B. Martin, Henry Stewart and many other practical farmers; to Hately Brothers, leading packers at Chicago; North Packing and Provision Co. of Boston, and to a host of intelligent women on American farms, who, through their practical experience in the art of cooking, have furnished us with many admirable recipes for preparing and serving pork.

CHAPTER I.

PORK MAKING ON THE FARM.

During the marvelous growth of the packing industry the past generation, methods of slaughtering and handling pork have undergone an entire revolution. In the days of our fathers, annual hog-killing time was as much an event in the family as the harvesting of grain. With the coming of good vigorous frosts and cold weather, reached in the Northern states usually in November, every farmer would kill one, two or more hogs for home consumption, and frequently a considerable number for distribution through regular market channels. Nowadays, however, the big pork packing establishments have brought things down to such a fine point, utilizing every part of the animal (or, as has been said, “working up everything but the pig’s squeal”), that comparatively few hogs out of all the great number fattened are slaughtered and cut up on the farm.

Unquestionably there is room for considerable business of this character, and if properly conducted, with a thorough understanding, farmers can profitably convert some of their hogs into cured meats, lard, hams, bacon, sausage, etc., finding a good market at home and in villages and towns. Methods now in use are not greatly different from those followed years ago, although of course improvement is the order of the day, and some important changes have taken place, as will be seen in a study of our pages. A few fixtures and implements are necessary to properly cure and pack pork, but these may be simple, inexpensive and at the same time efficient. Such important portions of the work as the proper cutting of the throat, scalding, scraping, opening and cleaning the hog should be undertaken by someone not altogether a novice. And there is no reason why every farmer should not advantageously slaughter one or more hogs each year, supplying the family with the winter’s requirements and have something left over to sell.

THE POSSIBILITIES OF PROFIT

in the intelligent curing and selling of homemade pork are suggested by the far too general custom of farmers buying their pork supplies at the stores. This custom is increasing, to say nothing of the very large number of townspeople who would be willing to buy home cured pork were it properly offered them. Probably it is not practicable that every farmer should butcher his own swine, but in nearly every neighborhood one or two farmers could do this and make good profits. The first to do so, the first to be known as having home cured pork to sell, and the first to make a reputation on it, will be the one to secure the most profit.

In the farm census of live stock, hogs are given a very important place. According to the United States census of 1890 there were on farms in this country 57,409,583 hogs. Returns covering later years place the farm census of hogs, according to compilations of American Agriculturist and Orange Judd Farmer, recognized authorities, at 47,061,000 in 1895, 46,302,000 in 1896, and 48,934,000 in 1899. According to these authorities the average farm value of all hogs in 1899 was $4.19 per head. The government report placed the average farm price in 1894 at $5.98, in ’93, $6.41, and in 1892, $4.60.

A TRAVELING PIGPEN.

It is often desirable to change the location of a pigpen, especially where a single pig is kept. It may be placed in the garden at the time when there are waste vegetables to be disposed of, or it may be penned in a grass lot. A portable pen, with an open yard attached, is seen in the accompanying illustrations. Figure [1] presents the pen, the engraving showing it so clearly that no description is needed. The yard, seen in Fig. [2], is placed with the open space next to the door of the pen, so that the pig can go in and out freely. The yard is attached to the pen by hooks and staples, and both of them are provided with handles, by which they can be lifted and carried from place to place. Both the yard and pen should be floored, to prevent the pig from tearing up the ground. The floors should be raised a few inches from the ground, that they may be kept dry and made durable.

FIG. 1. PORTABLE PEN.

FIG. 2. YARD ATTACHMENT.

CHAPTER II.

FINISHING OFF HOGS FOR BACON.

The general subject of feeding and fattening hogs it is not necessary here to discuss. It will suffice to point out the advisability of using such rations as will finish off the swine in a manner best fitted to produce a good bacon hog. An important point is to feed a proper proportion of flesh-forming ration rather than one which will serve to develop fat at the expense of lean. The proper proportion of these will best subserve the interest of the farmer, whether he is finishing off swine for family use or for supplying the market with home cured bacon. A diet composed largely of protein (albuminoids) results in an increased proportion of lean meat in the carcass. On the other hand, a ration made up chiefly of feeds which are high in starchy elements, known as carbohydrates, yields very largely in fat (lard). A most comprehensive chart showing the relative values of various fodders and feeding stuffs has been prepared by Herbert Myrick, editor of American Agriculturist, and will afford a good many valuable hints to the farmer who wishes to feed his swine intelligently. This points out the fact that such feeds as oats, barley, cowpea hay, shorts, red clover hay and whole cottonseed are especially rich in flesh-forming properties.

Corn, which is rich in starch, is a great fat producer and should not be fed too freely in finishing off hogs for the best class of bacon. In addition to the important muscle-producing feeds noted above, there are others rich in protein, such as bran, skim milk, buttermilk, etc. While corn is naturally the standby of all swine growers, the rations for bacon purposes should include these muscle-producing feeds in order to bring the best results. If lean, juicy meat is desired, these muscle forming foods should be continued to the close. In order to get

JUST THE QUALITY OF BACON THAT IS WANTED,

feeders must so arrange the ration that it will contain a maximum of muscle and a minimum of fat. This gives the sweet flavor and streaked meat which is the secret of the popularity of the Irish and Danish bacon. Our American meats are as a rule heavy, rich in fat and in marked contrast with the light, mild, sweet flavored pork well streaked with lean, found so generally in the English market and cured primarily in Ireland and Denmark. What is wanted is a long, lean, smooth, bacon hog something after the Irish hog. Here is a hint for our American farmers.

England can justly boast of her hams and bacon, but for sweet, tender, lean pork the Normandy hogs probably have no superior in the world. They are fed largely on meat-producing food, as milk, peas, barley, rye and wheat bran. They are not fed on corn meal alone. They are slaughtered at about six months. The bristles are burned off by laying the carcass on straw and setting it on fire. Though the carcasses come out black, they are scraped white and clean, and dressed perfectly while warm. It is believed that hogs thus dressed keep better and that the meat is sweeter.

SELF-CLOSING DOOR FOR PIGPEN.

Neither winter snows nor the spring and summer rains should be allowed to beat into a pigpen. But the difficulty is to have a door that will shut itself and can be opened by the animals whenever they desire. The engraving, Fig. [3], shows a door of this kind that can be applied to any pen, at least any to which a door can be affixed at all. It is hung on hooks and staples to the lintel of the doorway, and swinging either way allows the inmates of the pen to go out or in, as they please,—closing automatically. If the door is intended to fit closely, leather strips two inches wide should be nailed around the frame of the doorway, then as the door closes it presses tightly against these strips.

FIG. 3. AUTOMATIC DOOR.

A HOG-FEEDING CONVENIENCE.

The usual hog’s trough and the usual method of getting food into it are conducive to a perturbed state of mind on the part of the feeder, because the hog is accustomed to get bodily into the trough, where he is likely to receive a goodly portion of his breakfast or dinner upon the top of his head. The ordinary trough too, is difficult to clean out for a similar reason—the pig usually standing in it. The diagram shown herewith, Fig. [4] gives a suggestion for a trough that overcomes some of the difficulties mentioned, as it is easily accessible from the outside, both for pouring in food and for removing any dirt or litter that may be in it. The accompanying sketch so plainly shows the construction that detailed description does not appear to be necessary.

FIG. 4. PROTECTED TROUGH.

CHAPTER III.

SLAUGHTERING.

Whatever may be said as to the most humane modes of putting to death domestic animals intended for food, butchering with the knife, all things considered, is the best method to pursue with the hog. The hog should be bled thoroughly when it is killed. Butchering by which the heart is pierced or the main artery leading from it severed, does this in the most effectual way, ridding the matter of the largest percentage of blood, and leaving it in the best condition for curing and keeping well. The very best bacon cannot be made of meat that has not been thoroughly freed from blood, and this is a fact that should be well remembered. Expert butchers, who know how to seize and hold the hog and insert the knife at the proper place, are quickly through with the job, and often before the knife can be withdrawn from the incision, the blood will spurt out in a stream and insensibility and death will speedily ensue. It is easy, however, for a novice to make a botch of it; hence the importance that none but an expert be given a knife for this delicate operation.

There are some readily made devices by which one man at killing time may do as much as three or four, and with one helper a dozen hogs may be made into finished pork between breakfast and dinner, and without any excitement or worry or hard work. It is supposed that the hogs are in a pen or pens, where they may be easily roped by a noose around one hind leg. This being done, the animal is led to the door and guided into a box, having a slide door to shut it in. The bottom of the box is a hinged lid. As soon as the hog is safely in the box and shut in by sliding down the back door, and fastening it by a hook, the box is turned over, bringing the hog on his back. The bottom of the box is opened immediately and one man seizes a hind foot, to hold the animal, while the other sticks the hog in the usual manner. The box is turned and lifted from the hog, which, still held by the rope is moved to the dressing bench. All this may be done while the previous hog is being scalded and dressed, or the work may be so managed that as soon as one hog is hung and cleaned the next one is ready for the scalding.

FIG. 5. HEATING WATER IN KETTLES.

NECESSARY AIDS.

Before the day for slaughter arrives, have everything ready for performing the work in the best manner. There may be a large boiler for scalding set in masonry with a fireplace underneath and a flue to carry off the smoke. If this is not available, a large hogshead may be utilized at the proper time. A long table, strong and immovable, should be fixed close to the boiler, on which the hogs are to be drawn after having been scalded, for scraping. On each side of this table scantlings should be laid in the form of an open flooring, and upon this the farmer and helpers may stand while at work, thus keeping their feet off the ground, out of the water and mud that would otherwise be disagreeable. An appreciated addition on a rainy day would be a substantial roof over this boiler and bench. This should be strong and large enough so that the hog after it is cleaned may be properly hung up. Hooks and gambrels are provided, knives are sharpened, a pile of dry wood is placed there, and everything that will be needed on the day of butchering is at hand.

HEATING WATER FOR SCALDING.

For heating scalding water and rendering lard, when one has no kettles or cauldrons ready to set in brick or stone, a simple method is to put down two forked stakes firmly, as shown in Fig. [5], lay in them a pole to support the kettles, and build a wood fire around them on the ground. A more elaborate arrangement is shown in Fig. [6], which serves not only to heat the water, but as a scalding tub as well. It is made of two-inch pine boards, six feet long and two feet wide, rounded at the ends. A heavy plate of sheet iron is nailed with wrought nails on the bottom and ends Let the iron project fully one inch on each side. The ends, being rounded, will prevent the fire from burning the woodwork. They also make it handier for dipping sheep, scalding hogs, or for taking out the boiled food. The box is set on two walls 18 inches high, and the rear end of the brickwork is built into a short chimney, affording ample draft.

FIG. 6. PRACTICAL HEATING AND SCALDING VAT.

CHAPTER IV.

SCALDING AND SCRAPING.

Next comes the scalding and dressing of the carcass. Lay the hog upon the table near the boiler and let the scalders who stand ready to handle it place it in the water heated nearly to a boiling point. The scalders keep the hog in motion by turning it about in the water, and occasionally they try the bristles to see if they will come away readily. As soon as satisfied on this point, the carcass is drawn from the boiler and placed upon the bench, where it is rapidly and thoroughly scraped. The bristles or hair that grow along the back of the animal are sometimes sold to brush makers, the remainder of the hair falling beside the table and gathered up for the manure heap. The carcass must not remain too long in the hot water, as this will set the hair. In this case it will not part from the skin, and must be scraped off with sharp knives. For this reason an experienced hand should attend to the scalding. The hair all off, the carcass is hung upon the hooks, head down, nicely scraped and washed with clean water preparatory to disemboweling.

FIG. 7. TACKLE FOR HEAVY HOGS.

SCALDING TUBS AND VATS.

Various devices are employed for scalding hogs, without lifting them by main force. For heavy hogs, one may use three strong poles, fastened at the top with a log chain, which supports a simple tackle, Fig. [7]. A very good arrangement is shown in Fig. [8]. A sled is made firm with driven stakes and covered with planks or boards. At the rear end the scalding cask is set in the ground, its upper edge on a level with the platform and inclined as much as it can be and hold sufficient water. A large, long hog is scalded one end at a time. The more the cask is inclined, the easier will be the lifting.

FIG. 8. SCALDING CASK ON SLED.

A modification of the above device is shown in Fig. [9]. A lever is rigged like a well sweep, using a crotched stick for the post, and a strong pole for the sweep. The iron rod on which the sweep moves must be strong and stiff. A trace chain is attached to the upper end, and if the end of the chain has a ring instead of a hook, it will be quite convenient. In use, a table is improvised, unless a strong one for the purpose is at hand, and this is set near the barrel. A noose is made with the chain about the leg of the hog, and he is soused in, going entirely under water, lifted out when the bristles start easily, and laid upon the table, while another is made ready.

FIG. 9. SCALDING IN A HOGSHEAD.

Figure [10] shows a more permanent arrangement. It is a trough of plank with a sheet iron bottom, which can be set over a temporary fireplace made in the ground. The vat may be six feet long, three feet wide and two and one-half feet deep, so as to be large enough for a good-sized hog. Three ropes are fastened on one side, for the purpose of rolling the hog over into the vat and rolling it out on the other side when it is scalded. A number of slanting crosspieces are fitted in, crossing each other, so as to form a hollow bed in which the carcass lies, with the ropes under it, by which it can be moved and drawn out. These crosspieces protect the sheet iron bottom and keep the carcass from resting upon it. A large, narrow fireplace is built up in the ground, with stoned sides, and the trough is set over it. A stovepipe is fitted at one end, and room is made at the front by which wood may be supplied to the fire to heat the water. A sloping table is fitted at one side for the purpose of rolling up the carcass, when too large to handle otherwise, by means of the rope previously mentioned. On the other side is a frame made of hollowed boards set on edge, upon which the hog is scraped and cleaned. The right temperature for scalding a hog is 180 degrees, and with a thermometer there need be no fear of overscalding or a failure from the lack of sufficient heat, while the water can be kept at the right temperature by regulating the fuel under the vat. If a spot of hair is obstinate, cover it with some of the removed hair and dip on hot water. Always pull out hair and bristles; shaving any off leaves unpleasant stubs in the skin.

SINGEING PIGS.

A few years ago, “singers” were general favorites with a certain class of trade wanting a light bacon pig, weighing about 170 lbs., the product being exported to England for bacon purposes. Packers frequently paid a small premium for light hogs suitable for this end, but more recently the demand is in other directions. The meat of singed hogs is considered by some to possess finer flavor than that of animals the hair of which has been removed by the ordinary process. Instead of being scalded and scraped in the ordinary manner, the singeing process consists in lowering the carcass into an iron or steel box by means of a heavy chain, the receptacle having been previously heated to an exceedingly high temperature. After remaining there a very few seconds the hog is removed and upon being placed in hot water the hair comes off instantly.

An old encyclopedia, published thirty years ago, in advocating the singeing process, has this to say: “The hog should be swealed (singed), and not scalded, as this method leaves the flesh firm and more solid. This is done by covering the hog lightly with straw, then set fire to it, renewing the fuel as it is burned away, taking care not to burn the skin. After sufficient singeing, the skin is scraped, but not washed. After cutting up, the flesh side of the cuts is rubbed with salt, which should be changed every four or five days. The flitches should also be transposed, the bottom ones at the top and the top ones at the bottom. Some use four ounces saltpetre and one pound coarse sugar or molasses for each hog. Six weeks is allowed for thus curing a hog weighing 240 lbs. The flitches before smoking are rubbed with bran or very fine sawdust and after smoking are often kept in clear, dry wood ashes or very dry sand.”

FIG. 10. PERMANENT VAT FOR SCALDING.

CHAPTER V.

DRESSING AND CUTTING.

When the carcasses have lost the animal heat they are put away till the morrow, by which time, if the weather is fairly cold, the meat is stiff and firm and in a condition to cut out better than it does when taken in its soft and pliant state. If the weather is very cold, however, and there is danger that the meat will freeze hard before morning, haste is made to cut it up the same day, or else it is put into a basement or other warm room, or a large fire made near it to prevent it from freezing. Meat that is frozen will not take salt, or keep from spoiling if salted. Salting is one of the most important of the several processes in the art of curing good bacon, and the pork should be in just the right condition for taking or absorbing the salt. Moderately cold and damp weather is the best for this.

AS THE CARCASS IS DRESSED

it is lifted by a hook at the end of a swivel lever mounted on a post and swung around to a hanging bar, placed conveniently. This bar has sliding hooks made to receive the gambrel sticks, which have a hook permanently attached to each so that the carcass is quickly removed from the swivel lever to the slide hook on the bar. The upper edge of the bar is rounded and smoothed and greased to help the hooks to slide on it. This serves to hang all the hogs on the bar until they are cooled. If four persons are employed this work may be done very quickly, as they may divide the work between them; one hog is being scalded and cleaned while another is being dressed.

FIG. 11. EASY METHOD OF HANGING A CARCASS.

Divested of its coat, the carcass is washed off nicely with clean water before being disemboweled. For opening the hog, the operator needs a sharp butcher’s knife, and should know how to use it with dexterity, so as not to cut the entrails. The entrails and paunch, or stomach, are first removed, care being taken not to cut any; then the liver, the “dead ears” removed from the heart, and the heart cut open to remove any clots of blood that it may contain. The windpipe is then slit open, and the whole together is hung upon the gambrel beside the hog or placed temporarily into a tub of water. The “stretcher,” a small stick some sixteen inches long, is then placed across the bowels to hold the sides well open and admit the air to cool the carcass, and a chip or other small object is placed in the mouth to hold it open, and the interior parts of the hog about the shoulders and gullet are nicely washed to free them from stains of blood. The carcass is then left to hang upon the gallows in order to cool thoroughly before it is cut into pieces or put away for the night.

Where ten or twelve hogs are dressed every year, it will pay to have a suitable building arranged for the work. An excellent place may be made in the driveway between a double corncrib, or in a wagon shed or an annex to the barn where the feeding pen is placed. The building should have a stationary boiler in it, and such apparatus as has been suggested, and a windlass used to do the lifting.

HOG KILLING MADE EASY.

In the accompanying cut, Fig. [11], the hoister represents a homemade apparatus that has been in use many years and it has been a grand success. The frames, a, a, a, a, are of 2x4 inch scantling, 8 ft. in length; b, b, are 2x6 inch and 2 ft. long with a round notch in the center of the upper surface for a windlass, d, to turn in; c, c are 2x4 and 8 ft. long, or as long as desired, and are bolted to a, a. Ten inches beyond the windlass, d, is a 4x4 inch piece with arms bolted on the end to turn the windlass and draw up the carcass, which should be turned lengthwise of the hoister until it passes between c, c. The gambrel should be long enough to catch on each side when turned crosswise, thus relieving the windlass so that a second carcass may be hoisted. The peg, e, is to place in a hole of upright, a, to hold the windlass. Brace the frame in proportion to the load that is to be placed upon it. The longer it is made, the more hogs can be hung at the same time.

THE SAWBUCK SCAFFOLD.

Figure [12] shows a very cheap and convenient device for hanging either hogs or beeves. The device is in shape much like an old-fashioned “sawbuck,” with the lower rounds between the legs omitted. The legs, of which there are two pairs, should be about ten feet long and set bracing, in the manner shown in the engraving. The two pairs of legs are held together by an inch iron rod, five or six feet in length, provided with threads at both ends. The whole is made secure by means of two pairs of nuts, which fasten the legs to the connecting iron rod. A straight and smooth wooden roller rests in the forks made by the crossing of the legs, and one end projects about sixteen inches. In this two augur holes are bored, in which levers may be inserted for turning the roller. The rope, by means of which the carcass is raised, passes over the rollers in such a way that in turning, by means of the levers, the animal is raised from the ground. When sufficiently elevated, the roller is fastened by one of the levers to the nearest leg.

FIG. 12. RAISING A CARCASS.

PROPER SHAPE OF GAMBRELS.

Gambrels should be provided of different lengths, if the hogs vary much in size. That shown in Fig. [13] is a convenient shape. These should be of hickory or other tough wood for safety, and be so small as to require little gashing of the legs to receive them.

FIG. 13. A CONVENIENT GAMBREL.

GALLOWS FOR DRESSED HOGS.

The accompanying device, Fig. [14], for hanging dressed hogs, consists of a stout, upright post, six or eight inches square and ten feet long, the lower three feet being set into the ground. Near the upper end are two mortises, each 2x4 inches, quite through the post, one above the other, as shown in the engraving, for the reception of the horizontal arms. The latter are six feet long and just large enough to fit closely into the mortises. They should be of white oak or hickory. At butchering time the dead hogs are hung on the scaffold by slipping the gambrels upon the horizontal crosspieces.

ADDITIONAL HINTS ON DRESSING.

Little use of the knife is required to loosen the entrails. The fingers, rightly used, will do most of the severing. Small, strong strings, cut in proper lengths, should be always at hand to quickly tie the severed ends of any small intestines cut or broken by chance. An expert will catch the entire offal in a large tin pan or wooden vessel, which is held between himself and the hog. Unskilled operators, and those opening very large hogs, need an assistant to hold this. The entrails and then the liver, heart, etc., being all removed, thoroughly rinse out any blood or filth that may have escaped inside. Removing the lard from the long intestines requires expertness that can be learned only by practice. The fingers do most of this cleaner, safer and better than a knife. A light feed the night before killing leaves the intestines less distended and less likely to be broken.

FIG. 14. SIMPLE SUPPORT FOR DRESSED HOG.

HOW TO CUT UP A HOG.

With a sharp ax and a sharp butcher’s knife at hand, lay the hog on the chopping bench, side down. With the knife make a cut near the ear clear across the neck and down to the bone. With a dextrous stroke of the ax sever the head from the body. Lay the carcass on the back, a boy holding it upright and keeping the forelegs well apart. With the ax proceed to take out the chine or backbone. If it is desired to put as much of the hog into neat meat as possible, trim to the chine very close, taking out none of the skin or outside fat with it. Otherwise, the cutter need not be particular how much meat comes away with the bone. What does not go with the neat meat will be in the offal or sausage, and nothing will be lost. Lay the chine aside and with the knife finish separating the two divisions of the hog. Next, strip off with the hands the leaves or flakes of fat from the middle to the hams. Seize the hock of the ham with the left hand and with the knife in the other, proceed to round out the ham, giving it a neat, oval shape. Be very particular in shaping the ham. If it is spoiled in the first cutting, no subsequent trimming will put it into a form to exactly suit the fastidious public eye. Trim off the surplus lean and fat and projecting pieces of bone. Cut off the foot just above the hock joint. The piece when finished should have nearly the form of a regular oval, with its projecting handle or hock.

With the ax cut the shoulder from the middling, making the cut straight across near the elbow joint. Take off the end ribs or “spare bone” from the shoulder, trim the piece and cut off the foot. For home use, trim the shoulder, as well as the other pieces, very closely, taking off all of both lean and fat that can be spared. If care is taken to cut away the head near the ear, the shoulder will be at first about as wide as long, having a good deal of the neck attached. If the meat is intended for sale and the largest quantity of bacon is the primary object, let the piece remain so. But if it is preferred to have plenty of lard and sausage, cut a smart strip from off the neck side of the shoulder and make the piece assume the form of a parallelogram, with the hock attached to one end. Trim a slice of fat from the back for lard, take off the “short ribs,” and, if preferred, remove the long ribs from the whole piece. The latter, however, is not often done by the farmers. Put the middling in nice shape by trimming it wherever needed, which, when finished, will be very much like a square in form, perhaps a little longer than broad, with a small circular piece cut out from the end next the ham.

The six pieces of neat meat are now ready for the salter. The head is next cut open longitudinally from side to side, separating the jowl from the top or “head,” so-called. The jawbone of the jowl is cut at the angle or tip and the “swallow,” which is the larynx or upper part of the windpipe, is taken out. The headpiece is next cut open vertically and the lobe of the brain is taken out, and the ears and nose are removed.

The bone of the chine is cut at several places for the convenience of the cook, and the task of the cutter is finished. Besides the six pieces of neat meat, there are the chine, souse, jowl, head, fat, sausage, two spare and two short ribs and various other small bits derived from each hog. A good cutter, with an assistant to carry away the pieces and help otherwise, can cut out from 50 to 60 hogs in a day.

CHAPTER VI.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE OFFAL.

Aside from the pieces of meat into which a hog is usually cut, there will be left as offal the chine or backbone, the jowl, the souse, the liver and lungs, pig’s feet, two spareribs and two short ribs or griskins. Nearly every housekeeper knows what disposition to make of all this, yet too often these wholesome portions of the hog are not utilized to best advantage.

PORK SAUSAGE.

Sausage has formed a highly prized article of food for a good many hundred years. Formed primarily as now, by chopping the raw meat very fine, and adding salt and other flavoring materials, and often meal or bread crumbs, the favorite varieties of to-day might not be considered any improvement over the recipes of the ancient Romans were they to pass judgment on the same. History tells us that these early Italian sausages were made of fresh pork and bacon, chopped fine, with the addition of nuts, and flavored with cumin seed, pepper, bay leaves and various pot herbs. Italy and Germany are still celebrated for their bologna sausages and with many people these smoked varieties are highly prized.

Like pure lard, sausage is too often a scarce article in the market. Most city butchers mix a good deal of beef with the pork, before it is ground, and so have a sausage composed of two sorts of meat, which does not possess that agreeable, sweet, savory taste peculiar to nice fresh pork. The bits of lean, cut off when trimming the pieces of neat meat, the tenderloins, and slices of lean from the shoulders and hams, together with some fat, are first washed nicely, cleared of bone and scraps of skin, then put into the chopper, and ground fine. If a great deal of sausage is wanted, the neat meat is trimmed very close, so as to take all the lean that can be spared from the pieces. Sometimes whole shoulders are cut up and ground. The heads, too, or the fleshy part, make good sausage. Some housekeepers have the livers and “lights,” or lungs, ground up and prepared for sausage, and they make a tolerable substitute. This preparation should be kept separate from the other, however, and be eaten while cold weather lasts, as it will not keep as long as the other kind.

After sausage is properly ground, add salt, sage, rosemary, and red or black pepper to suit the taste. The rosemary may be omitted, but sage is essential. All these articles should be made fine before mixing them with the meat. In order to determine accurately whether the sausage contains enough of these ingredients, cook a little and taste it.

If sausage is to be kept in jars, pack it away closely in them, as soon as it is ground and seasoned, and set the jars, securely closed, in a cool room. But it is much better to provide for smoking some of it, to keep through the spring and early summer. When the entrails are ready, stuff them full with the meat, after which the ends are tied and drawn together, and the sausage hung up in the smokehouse for smoking. This finishes the process of making pork sausage. Put up in this way, it deserves the name of sausage and it makes a dish good enough for any one. It is one of the luxuries of life which may be manufactured at home.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE.

The popular theory is that these familiar sausages originated in the Italian city of that name, where the American visitor always stops for a bit of “the original.” Many formulas are used in the preparation of bologna sausages, or rather many modifications of a general formula. Lean, fresh meat trimmings are employed and some add a small proportion of heart, all chopped very fine. While being chopped, spices and seasoning are added, with a sufficient quantity of salt. The meat employed is for the most part beef, to which is added some fresh or salted pork. When almost completed, add gradually a small quantity of potato flour and a little water. The mixture being of the proper consistency, stuff in beef casings, tie the ends together into rings of fair length and smoke thoroughly. This accomplished, boil until the sausages rise to the top, when they are ready for use. Some recipes provide for two parts of beef and one part of fat pork and the addition of a little ground coriander seed to the seasoning.

WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGES

are made in much the same manner as frankforts, chopped not quite so fine, and, after being cased, are smoked about a week.

FRANKFORT SAUSAGES.

Clean bits of pork, both fat and lean, are chopped fine and well moistened with cold water. These may be placed in either sheep or hog casings through the use of the homemade filler shown on another page.

SUABIAN SAUSAGES.

Chop very finely fat and lean meat until the mass becomes nearly a paste, applying a sprinkling of cold water during the operation. Suabian sausages are prepared by either smoking or boiling, and in the latter case may be considered sufficiently cooked when they rise to the surface of the water in which they are boiled.

ITALIAN PORK SAUSAGES.

The preparation of these requires considerable care, but the product is highly prized by many. For every nine pounds of raw pork add an equal amount of boiled salt pork and an equal amount of raw veal. Then add two pounds selected sardines with all bones previously removed. Chop together to a fine mass and then add five pounds raw fat pork previously cut into small cubes. For the seasoning take six ounces salt, four ounces ground pepper, eight ounces capers, eight ounces pistachio nuts peeled and boiled in wine. All of these ingredients being thoroughly mixed, add about one dozen pickled and boiled tongues cut into narrow strips. Place the sausage in beef casings of good size. In boiling, the sausages should be wrapped in a cloth with liberal windings of stout twine and allowed to cook about an hour. Then remove to a cool place about 24 hours.

TONGUE SAUSAGE.

To every pound of meat used add two pounds of tongues, which have previously been cut into small pieces, mixing thoroughly. These are to be placed in large casings and boiled for about an hour. The flavor of the product may be improved if the tongues are previously placed for a day in spiced brine. Pickled tongues are sometimes used, steeped first in cold water for several hours.

BLACK FOREST SAUSAGES.

This is an old formula followed extensively in years gone by in Germany. Very lean pork is chopped into a fine mass and for every ten pounds, three pounds of fat bacon are added, previously cut comparatively fine. This is properly salted and spiced and sometimes a sprinkling of blood is added to improve the color. Fill into large casings, place over the fire in a kettle of cold water and simmer without boiling for nearly an hour.

LIVER SAUSAGE.

The Germans prepare this by adding to every five pounds of fat and lean pork an equal quantity of ground rind and two and one-half pounds liver. Previously partly cook the rind and pork and chop fine, then add the raw liver well chopped and press through a coarse sieve. Mix all thoroughly with sufficient seasoning. As the raw liver will swell when placed in boiling water, these sausages should be filled into large skins, leaving say a quarter of the space for expansion. Boil nearly one hour, dry, then smoke four or five days.

ROYAL CAMBRIDGE SAUSAGES

are made by adding rice in the proportion of five pounds to every ten pounds of lean meat and six pounds of fat. Previously boil the rice about ten minutes, then add gradually to the meat while being chopped fine, not forgetting the seasoning. The rice may thus be used instead of bread, and it is claimed to aid in keeping the sausages fresh and sweet.

BRAIN SAUSAGES.

Free from all skin and wash thoroughly the brain of two calves. Add one pound of lean and one pound of fat pork previously chopped fine. Use as seasoning four or five raw grated onions, one ounce salt, one-half ounce ground pepper. Mix thoroughly, place in beef casings and boil about five minutes. Afterward hang in a cool place until ready for use.

TOMATO SAUSAGES.

Add one and one-half pounds pulp of choice ripe tomatoes to every seven pounds of sausage meat, using an addition of one pound of finely crushed crackers, the last named previously mixed with a quart of water and allowed to stand for some time before using. Add the mixture of tomato and cracker powder gradually to the meat while the latter is being chopped. Season well and cook thoroughly.

SPANISH SAUSAGE

is made by using one-third each leaf lard, lean and fat pork, first thoroughly boiling and chopping fine the meat. Add to this the leaf lard previously chopped moderately fine, mix well and add a little blood to improve the color and moisten the whole. This sausage is to be placed in large casings and tied in links eight to twelve inches long. In an old recipe for Spanish sausage seasoning it is made of seven pounds ground white pepper, six ounces ground nutmeg, eight ounces ground pimento or allspice and a sprinkling of bruised garlic.

ANOTHER SAUSAGE SEASONING.

To five pounds salt add two pounds best ground white pepper, three ounces ground mace, or an equal quantity of nutmeg, four ounces ground coriander seed, two ounces powdered cayenne pepper and mix thoroughly.

ADMIXTURE OF BREAD.

Very often concerns which manufacture sausage on a large scale add considerable quantities of bread. This increases the weight at low cost, thus cheapening the finished product, and is also said to aid in keeping qualities. While this is no doubt thoroughly wholesome, it is not in vogue by our most successful farmers who have long made a business of preparing home-cured sausage. Bread used for sausages should have the crust removed, should be well soaked in cold water for some time before required, then pressed to remove the surplus moisture, and added gradually to the pork while being chopped. Some sausage manufacturers add 10 to 15 per cent in weight of crushed crackers instead of bread to sausage made during hot weather. This is to render the product firm and incidentally to increase the weight through thoroughly mixing the cracker crumbs or powder with an equal weight or more of water before adding to the meat.

SAUSAGE IN CASES.

Many prefer to pack in sausage casings, either home prepared or purchased of a dealer in packers’ supplies. Latest improved machines for rapidly filling the cases are admirably adapted to the work, and this can also be accomplished by a homemade device. Figure [15] shows a simple bench and lever arrangement to be used with the common sausage filler, which lightens the work so much that even a small boy can use it with ease, and any person can get up the whole apparatus at home with little or no expense. An inch thick pine board one foot wide and four and one-fourth feet long is fitted with four legs, two and one-half feet long, notched into its edges, with the feet spread outward to give firmness. Two oak standards eighteen inches high are set thirty-four inches apart, with a slot down the middle of each, for the admission of an oak lever eight feet long. The left upright has three or four holes, one above another, for the lever pin, as shown in the engraving. The tin filler is set into the bench nearer the left upright and projects below for receiving the skins. Above the filler is a follower fitting closely into it, and its top working very loosely in the lever to allow full play as it moves up and down. The engraving shows the parts and mode of working.

FIG. 15. HOMEMADE SAUSAGE FILLER.

PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE.

This is highly prized in some parts of the country, affording a breakfast dish of great relish. A leading Philadelphia manufacturer has furnished us with the following recipe: To make 200 lbs. of scrapple, take about 80 lbs. of good clean pork heads, remove the eyes, brains, snout, etc. Put in about 20 gals. of water and cook until it is thoroughly done. Then take out, separate the bones and chop the meat fine. Take about 15 gals, of the liquor left after boiling the heads, and if the water has boiled down to a quantity less than 15 gals., make up its bulk with hot water; if more than 15 gals. remain, take some of the water out, but be sure to keep some of the good fat liquor. Put this quantity of the liquor into a kettle, add the chopped meat, together with 10 oz. pure white pepper, 8 oz. sweet marjoram, 2 lbs. fine salt. Stir well until the liquor comes to a good boil. Have ready for use at this time 25 lbs. good Indian meal and 7 lbs. buckwheat flour. As soon as the liquor begins to boil add the meal and flour, the two being previously mixed dry. Be careful to put the meal in a little at a time, scattering it well and stirring briskly, that it may not burn to the kettle. Cook until well done, then place in pans to cool. The pans should be well greased, also the dipper used, to prevent the scrapple sticking to the utensils. When cold, the scrapple is cut into slices and fried in the ordinary manner as sausage. Serve hot.

SOUSE.

After being carefully cleaned and soaked in cold water, the feet, ears, nose and sometimes portions of the head may be boiled, thoroughly boned, and pressed into bowls or other vessels for cake souse. But frequently these pieces, instead of being boned, are placed whole in a vessel and covered with a vinegar, and afterwards taken a little at a time, as wanted, and fried.

JOWLS AND HEAD.

If not made into souse or sausage, these may be boiled unsmoked, with turnips, peas or beans; or smoked and cooked with cabbage or salad. The liver and accompanying parts, if not converted into sausage, may be otherwise utilized.

THE SPARERIBS AND SHORT BONES

may be cooked in meat pies with a crust, the same as chicken, or they may be fried or boiled. The large end of the chine makes a good piece for baking. The whole chine may be smoked and will keep a long time.

CRACKNELS.

This is the portion of the fat meat which is left after the lard is cooked, and is used by many as an appetizing food. The cracknels may be pressed and thus much more lard secured. This latter, however, should be used before the best lard put away in tubs. After being pressed the cracknels are worked into a dough with corn meal and together made into cracknel bread.

BRAWN

is comparatively little used in this country, though formerly a highly relished dish in Europe, where it was often prepared from the flesh of the wild boar. An ancient recipe is as follows: “The bones being taken out of the flitches (sides) or other parts, the flesh is sprinkled with salt and laid on a tray, that the blood may drain off, after which it is salted a little and rolled up as hard as possible. The length of the collar of brawn should be as much as one side of the boar will permit; so that when rolled up the piece may be nine or ten inches in diameter. After being thus rolled up, it is boiled in a copper or large kettle, till it is so tender that you may run a stiff straw through it. Then it is set aside till it is thoroughly cold, put into a pickle composed of water, salt, and wheat-bran, in the proportion of two handfuls of each of the latter to every gallon of water, which, after being well boiled together, is strained off as clear as possible from the bran, and, when quite cold, the brawn is put into it.”

HEAD CHEESE.

This article is made usually of pork, or rather from the meat off the pig’s head, skins, and coarse trimmings. After having been well boiled, the meat is cut into pieces, seasoned well with sage, salt, and pepper, and pressed a little, so as to drive out the extra fat and water. Some add the meat from a beef head to make it lean. Others add portions of heart and liver, heating all in a big pan or other vessel, and then running through a sausage mill while hot.

BLOOD PUDDINGS

are usually made from the hog’s blood with chopped pork, and seasoned, then put in casings and cooked. Some make them of beef’s blood, adding a little milk; but the former is the better, as it is thought to be the richer.

SPICED PUDDINGS.

These are made somewhat like head-cheese, and often prepared by the German dealers, some of whom make large quantities. They are also made of the meat from the pig’s chops or cheeks, etc., well spiced and boiled. Some smoke them.

CHAPTER VII.

THE FINE POINTS IN MAKING LARD.

Pure lard should contain less than one per cent of water and foreign matter. It is the fat of swine, separated from the animal tissue by the process of rendering. The choicest lard is made from the whole “leaf.” Lard is also made by the big packers from the residue after rendering the leaf and expressing a “neutral” lard, which is used in the manufacture of oleomargarine. A good quality of lard is made from back-fat and leaf rendered together. Fat from the head and intestines goes to make the cheaper grades. Lard may be either “kettle” or “steam rendered,” the kettle process being usually employed for the choicer fat parts of the animal, while head and intestinal fat furnish the so-called “steam lard.” Steam lard, however, is sometimes made from the leaf. On the other hand, other parts than the leaf are often kettle rendered. Kettle rendered lard usually has a fragrant cooked odor and a slight color, while steam lard often has a strong animal odor.

TO REFINE LARD,

a large iron pot is set over a slow fire of coals, a small quantity of water is put into the bottom of the pot, and this is then filled to the brim with the fat, after it has first been cut into small pieces and nicely washed, to free it from blood and other impurities. If necessary to keep out soot, ashes, etc., loose covers or lids are placed over the vessels, and the contents are made to simmer slowly for several hours. This work requires a careful and experienced hand to superintend it. Everything should be thoroughly clean, and the attendant must possess patience and a practical knowledge of the work. It will not do to hurry the cooking. A slow boil or simmer is the proper way. The contents are occasionally stirred as the cooking proceeds, to prevent burning. The cooking is continued until the liquid ceases to bubble and becomes clear. So long as there is any milky or cloudy appearance about the fat, it contains water, and in this condition will not keep well in summer—a matter of importance to the country housekeeper.

It requires six to eight hours constant cooking to properly refine a kettle or pot of fat. The time will depend, of course, somewhat upon the size of the vessel containing it and the thickness of the fat, and also upon the attention bestowed upon it by the cook. By close watching, so as to keep the fire just right all the time, it will cook in a shorter period, and vice versa. When the liquid appears clear the pots are set aside for the lard to cool a little before putting it into the vessels in which it is to be kept. The cracknels are first dipped from the pots and put into colanders, to allow the lard to drip from them. Some press the cracknels, and thus get a good deal more lard. As the liquid fat is dipped from the pots it is carefully strained through fine colanders or wire sieves. This is done to rid it of any bits of cracknel, etc., that may remain in the lard. Some country people when cooking lard add a few sprigs of rosemary or thyme, to impart a pleasant flavor to it. A slight taste of these herbs is not objectionable. Nothing else whatever is put into the lard as it is cooked, and if thoroughly done, nothing else is needed. A little salt is sometimes added, to make it firmer and keep it better in summer, but the benefit, if any, is slight, and too much salt is objectionable.

LEAF LARD.

In making lard, all the leaf or flake fat, the two leaves of almost solid fat that grow just above the hams on either side about the kidneys, and the choice pieces of fat meat cut off in trimming the pork should be tried or rendered first and separate from the remainder. This fat is the best and makes what is called the leaf lard. It may be put in the bottom of the cans, for use in summer, or else into separate jars or cans, and set away in a cool place. The entrail fat and bits of fat meat are cooked last and put on top of the other, or into separate vessels, to be used during cool weather. This lard is never as good as the other, and will not keep sweet as long; hence the pains taken by careful housewives to keep the two sorts apart. It must be admitted, however, that many persons, when refining lard for market, do not make any distinction, but lump all together, both in cooking and afterward. But for pure, honest “leaf” lard not a bit of entrail fat should be mixed with the flakes.

A PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT POINT

in making lard is to take plenty of time. The cooking must not be hurried in the least. It requires time to thoroughly dry out all the water, and the keeping quality of the lard depends largely upon this. A slow fire of coals only should be placed under the kettle, and great care exercised that no spark snaps into it, to set fire to the hot oil. It is well to have at hand some close-fitting covers, to be put immediately over the kettle, closing it tightly in case the oil should take fire. The mere exclusion of air will put out the fire at once. Cook slowly in order not to burn any of the fat in the least, as that will impart a very unpleasant flavor to the lard. The attendants should stir well with a long ladle or wooden stick during the whole time of cooking. It requires several hours to thoroughly cook a vessel of lard, when the cracknels will eventually rise to the top.

A cool, dry room, such as a basement, is the best place for keeping lard. Large stone jars are perhaps the best vessels to keep it in, but tins are cheaper, and wooden casks, made of oak, are very good. Any pine wood, cedar or cypress will impart a taste of the wood. The vessels must be kept closed, to exclude litter, and care should be observed to prevent ants, mice, etc., from getting to the lard. A secret in keeping lard firm and good in hot weather is first to cook it well, and then set it in a cool, dry cellar, where the temperature remains fairly uniform throughout the year. Cover the vessels after they are set away in the cellar with closely fitting tops over a layer of oiled paper.

CHAPTER VIII.

PICKLING AND BARRELING.

For salt pork, one of the first considerations is a clean barrel, which can be used over and over again after yearly renovation. A good way to clean the barrel is to place about ten gallons of water and a peck of clean wood ashes in the barrel, then throw in well-heated irons, enough to boil the water, cover closely, and by adding a hot iron occasionally, keep the mixture boiling a couple of hours. Pour out, wash thoroughly with fresh water, and it will be as sweet as a new barrel. Next cover the bottom of the barrel with coarse salt, cut the pork into strips about six inches wide, stand edgewise in the barrel, with the skin next the outside, until the bottom is covered. Cover with a thick coat of salt, so as to hide the pork entirely. Repeat in the same manner until the barrel is full, or the pork all in, covering the top thickly with another layer of salt. Let stand three or four days, then put on a heavy flat stone and sufficient cold water to cover the pork. After the water is on, sprinkle one pound best black pepper over all. An inch of salt in the bottom and between each layer and an inch and a half on top will be sufficient to keep the pork without making brine.

When it is desired to pickle pork by pouring brine over the filled barrel, the following method is a favorite: Pack closely in the barrel, first rubbing the salt well into the exposed ends of bones, and sprinkle well between each layer, using no brine until forty-eight hours after, and then let the brine be strong enough to bear an egg. After six weeks take out the hams and bacon and hang in the smokehouse. When warm weather brings danger of flies, smoke a week with hickory chips; avoid heating the air much. If one has a dark, close smokehouse, the meat can hang in it all summer; otherwise pack in boxes, putting layers of sweet, dry hay between. This method of packing is preferred by some to packing in dry salt or ashes.

FIG. 16. BOX FOR SALTING MEATS.

RENEWING PORK BRINE.

Not infrequently from insufficient salting and unclean barrels, or other cause, pork placed in brine begins to spoil, the brine smells bad, and the contents, if not soon given proper attention, will be unfit for food. As soon as this trouble is discovered, lose no time in removing the contents from the barrel, washing each piece of meat separately in clean water. Boil the brine for half an hour, frequently removing the scum and impurities that will rise to the surface. Cleanse the barrel thoroughly by washing with hot water and hard wood ashes. Replace the meat after sprinkling it with a little fresh salt, putting the purified brine back when cool, and no further trouble will be experienced, and if the work be well done, the meat will be sweet and firm. Those who pack meat for home use do not always remove the blood with salt. After meat is cut up it is better to lie in salt for a day and drain before being placed in the brine barrel.

A HANDY SALTING BOX.

A trough made as shown at Fig. [16] is very handy for salting meats, such as hams, bacon and beef, for drying. It is made of any wood which will not flavor the meat; ash, spruce or hemlock plank, one and a half inches thick, being better than any others. A good size is four feet long by two and one-half wide and one and one-half deep. The joints should be made tight with white lead spread upon strips of cloth, and screws are vastly better than nails to hold the trough together.

CHAPTER IX.

CARE OF HAMS AND SHOULDERS.

In too many instances farmers do not have the proper facilities for curing hams, and do not see to it that such are at hand, an important point in success in this direction. A general cure which would make a good ham under proper conditions would include as follows: To each 100 lbs. of ham use seven and a half pounds Liverpool fine salt, one and one-half pounds granulated sugar and four ounces saltpeter. Weigh the meat and the ingredients in the above proportions, rub the meat thoroughly with this mixture and pack closely in a tierce. Fill the tierce with water and roll every seven days until cured, which in a temperature of 40 to 50 degrees would require about fifty days for a medium ham. Large hams take about ten days more for curing. When wanted for smoking, wash the hams in water or soak for twelve hours. Hang in the smokehouse and smoke slowly forty-eight hours and you will have a very good ham. While this is not the exact formula followed in big packing houses, any more than are other special recipes given here, it is a general ham cure that will make a first-class ham in every respect if proper attention is given it.

Another method of pickling hams and shoulders, preparatory to smoking, includes the use of molasses. Though somewhat different from the above formula, the careful following of directions cannot fail to succeed admirably. To four quarts of fine salt and two ounces of pulverized saltpeter, add sufficient molasses to make a pasty mixture. The hams having hung in a dry, cool place for three or four days after cutting up, are to be covered all over with the mixture, more thickly on the flesh side, and laid skin side down for three or four days. In the meantime, make a pickle of the following proportions, the quantities here named being for 100 lbs. of hams. Coarse salt, seven pounds; brown sugar, five pounds; saltpeter, two ounces; pearlash or potash, one-half ounce; soft water, four gallons. Heat gradually and as the skim rises remove it. Continue to do this as long as any skim rises, and when it ceases, allow the pickle to cool. When the hams have remained the proper time immersed in this mixture, cover the bottom of a clean, sweet barrel with salt about half an inch deep. Pack in the hams as closely as possible, cover them with the pickle, and place over them a follower with weights to keep them down. Small hams of fifteen pounds and less, also shoulders, should remain in the pickle for five weeks; larger ones will require six to eight weeks, according to size. Let them dry well before smoking.

WESTPHALIAN HAMS.

This particular style has long been a prime favorite in certain markets of Europe, and to a small extent in this country also. Westphalia is a province of Germany in which there is a large industry in breeding swine for the express purpose of making the most tender meat with the least proportion of fat. Another reason for the peculiar and excellent qualities which have made Westphalian hams so famous, is the manner of feeding and growing for the hams, and finally the preserving, curing, and last of all, smoking the hams. The Ravensberg cross breed of swine is a favorite for this purpose. They are rather large animals, having slender bodies, flat groins, straight snouts and large heads, with big, overhanging ears. The skin is white, with straight little bristles.

A principal part of the swine food in Westphalia is potatoes; these are cooked and then mashed in the potato water. The pulp thus obtained is thoroughly mixed with wheat bran in a dry, raw state; little corn is used. In order to avoid overproduction of fat and at the same time further the growth of flesh of young pigs, some raw cut green feed, such as cabbage, is used; young pigs are also fed sour milk freely. In pickling the hams they are first vigorously rubbed with saltpeter and then with salt. The hams are pressed in the pickling vat and entirely covered with cold brine, remaining in salt three to five weeks. After this they are taken out of the pickle and hung in a shady but dry and airy place to “air-dry.” Before the pickled hams can be put in smoke they are exposed for several weeks to this drying in the open air. As long as the outside of the ham is not absolutely dry, appearing moist or sticky, it is kept away from smoke.

Smoking is done in special large chambers, the hams being hung from the ceiling. In addition to the use of sawdust and wood shavings in making smoke, branches of juniper are often used, and occasionally beech and alder woods; oak and resinous woods are positively avoided. The smoking is carried on slowly. It is recommended to smoke for a few days cautiously, that is, to have the smoke not too strong. Then expose the hams for a few days in the fresh air, repeating in this way until they are brown enough. The hams are actually in smoke two or three weeks, thus the whole process of smoking requires about six weeks. Hams are preserved after their smoking in a room which is shady, not accessible to the light, but at the same time dry, cool and airy.

THE PIG AND THE ORCHARD.

The two go together well. The pig stirs up the soil about the trees, letting in the sunshine and moisture to the roots and fertilizing them, while devouring many grubs that would otherwise prey upon the fruit. But many orchards cannot be fenced and many owners of fenced orchards, even, would like to have the pig confine his efforts around the trunk of each tree. To secure this have four fence panels made and yard the pig for a short time in succession about each tree, as suggested in the diagram, Fig. [17].

FIG. 17. FENCE FOR ORCHARD TREE.

CHAPTER X.

DRY SALTING BACON AND SIDES.

For hogs weighing not over 125 or 130 lbs. each, intended for dry curing, one bushel fine salt, two pounds brown sugar and one pound saltpeter will suffice for each 800 lbs. pork before the meat is cut out; but if the meat is large and thick, or weighs from 150 to 200 lbs. per carcass, from a gallon to a peck more of salt and a little more of both the other articles should be taken. Neither the sugar nor the saltpeter is absolutely necessary for the preservation of the meat, and they are often omitted. But both are preservatives; the sugar improves the flavor of the bacon, and the saltpeter gives it greater firmness and a finer color, if used sparingly. Bacon should not be so sweet as to suggest the “sugar-cure;” and saltpeter, used too freely, hardens the tissues of the meat, and renders it less palatable. The quantity of salt mentioned is enough for the first salting. A little more

NEW SALT IS ADDED AT THE SECOND SALTING

and used together with the old salt that has not been absorbed. If sugar and saltpeter are used, first apply about a teaspoonful of pulverized saltpeter on the flesh side of the hams and shoulders, and then taking a little sugar in the hand, apply it lightly to the flesh surface of all the pieces. A tablespoonful is enough for any one piece.

If the meat at the time of salting is moist and yielding to the touch, rubbing the skin side with the gloved hand, or the “sow’s ear,” as is sometimes insisted on, is unnecessary; the meat will take salt readily enough without this extra labor. But if the meat is rigid, and the weather very cold, or if the pieces are large and thick, rubbing the skin side to make it yielding and moist causes the salt to penetrate to the center of the meat and bone. On the flesh side it is only necessary to sprinkle the salt over all the surface. Care must be taken to get some salt into every depression and into the hock end of all joints. An experienced meat salter goes over the pieces with great expedition. Taking a handful of the salt, he applies it dextrously by a gliding motion of the hand to all the surface, and does not forget the hock end of the bones where the feet have been cut off. Only dry salt is used in this method of curing. The meat is never put into brine or “pickle,” nor is any water added to the salt to render it more moist.

BEST DISTRIBUTION OF THE SALT.

A rude platform or bench of planks is laid down, on which the meat is packed as it is salted. A boy hands the pieces to the packer, who lays down first a course of middlings and then sprinkles a little more salt on all the places that do not appear to have quite enough. Next comes a layer of shoulders and then another layer of middlings, until all these pieces have been laid. From time to time a little more salt is added, as appears to be necessary. The hams are reserved for the top layer, the object being to prevent them from becoming too salt. In a large bulk of meat the brine, as it settles down, lodges upon the lower pieces, and some of them get rather more than their quota of salt. Too much saltiness spoils the hams for first-class bacon. In fact, it spoils any meat to have it too salt, but it requires less to spoil the hams, because, as a rule, they are mostly lean meat. The jowls, heads and livers, on account of the quantity of blood about them, are put in a separate pile, after being salted. The chines and spareribs are but slightly salted and laid on top of the bulk of neat meat. The drippings of brine and blood from the meat are collected in buckets and sent to the compost heaps. If there are rats, they must be trapped or kept out in some way. Cats, also, should be excluded from the house. Close-fitting boxes, which some use to keep the rats from the meat, are not the best; the meat needs air.

In ten days to three weeks, according to weather and size of the meat, break bulk and resalt, using the old salt again, with just a little new salt added. In four to six weeks more, or sooner, if need be, break up and wash the meat nicely, preparatory to smoking it. Some farmers do not wash the salt off, but the meat receives smoke better and looks nicer, if washed.

CURING PORK FOR THE SOUTH.

This requires a little different treatment. It is dry-salted and smoked. The sides, hams and shoulders are laid on a table and rubbed thoroughly with salt and saltpeter (one ounce to five pounds of salt), clear saltpeter being rubbed in around the ends of the bones. The pieces are laid up, with salt between, and allowed to lie. The rubbing is repeated at intervals of a week until the meat is thoroughly salted through, and it is then smoked. It must afterward be left in the smokehouse, canvased or buried in a box of ashes, to protect it from the flies.

CHAPTER XI.

SMOKING AND SMOKEHOUSES.

For best quality of bacon, the proper meat is of first importance. Withes or strings of basket wood, bear’s grass, or coarse, stout twine, one in the hock end of each ham and shoulder, and two in the thick side of each middling, are fastened in the meat by which to suspend it for smoking. Before it is hung up the entire flesh surface of the hams and shoulders, and sometimes the middlings also, is sprinkled thickly with fine black pepper, using a large tin pepper box to apply it. Sometimes a mixture of about equal parts of black and red pepper helps very much to impart a good flavor to the meat. It was thought formerly that black pepper, applied to meat before smoking it, would keep the bacon bug (Dermestes) “skippers” from being troublesome. But it is now known that the skipper skips just as lively where the pepper is. The meat is hung upon sticks or on hooks overhead very close together, without actually touching, and is ready for smoking.

THE SMOKEHOUSE.

The meat house is of course one with an earth, brick, or cement floor, where the fire for the smoke is made in a depression in the center of the room, so as to be as far as possible from the walls. A few live coals are laid down, and a small fire is made of some dry stuff. As it gets well to burning, the fire is smothered with green hickory or oak wood, and a basket of green chips from the oak or hickory woodpile is kept on hand and used as required to keep the fire smothered so as to produce a great smoke and but little blaze. If the chips are too dry they are kept wet with water. Care is taken not to allow the fire to get too large and hot, so as to endanger the meat hung nearest to it. Should the fire grow too strong, as it sometimes will, a little water is thrown on, a bucketful of which is kept always on hand. The fire requires constant care and nursing to keep up a good smoke and no blaze. Oak and hickory chips or wood impart the best color to meat. Some woods, as pine, ailanthus, mulberry and persimmon, are very objectionable, imparting a disagreeable flavor to the bacon. Corn cobs make a good smoke for meat, but they must be wet before laying them on the fire. Hardwood sawdust is sometimes advantageously used in making a fire for smoking meats. No blaze is formed, and if it burns too freely can be readily checked by sprinkling a little water upon it. This is a popular method in parts of Europe, and in that country damp wheat straw is also sometimes used to some extent.

COMBINED SMOKEHOUSE AND OVEN.

The oven, shown in Fig. [18], occupies the front and that part of the interior which is represented in our illustration by the dotted lines. The smokehouse occupies the rear, and extends over the oven. The advantages of this kind of building are the perfect dryness secured, which is of great importance in preserving the meat, and the economy in building the two together, as the smoke that escapes from the oven may be turned into the smokehouse. This latter feature, however, will not commend itself to many who prefer the use of certain kinds of fuel in smoking which are not adapted to burning in a bake oven.

FIG. 18. COMBINATION SMOKEHOUSE AND OVEN.

Cloudy and damp days are the best for smoking meat. It seems to receive the smoke more freely in such weather, and there is also less danger of fire. The smoke need not be kept up constantly, unless one is in a hurry to sell the meat. Half a day at a time on several days a week, for two or three weeks, will give the bacon that bright gingerbread color which is generally preferred. It should not be made too dark with smoke. It is a good plan, after the meat is smoked nearly enough, to smoke it occasionally for half a day at a time all through the spring until late in May. It is thought that smoke does good in keeping the Dermestes out of the house. The work of smoking may be finished up in a week, if one prefers, by keeping up the smoke all day and at night until bedtime. Some smoke more, others less, according to fancy as to color. No doubt, the more it is smoked, the better the bacon will keep through the summer. But it need not, and, in fact, should not, be made black with smoke.

It is necessary, before the smoking is quite completed, to remove the meat that is in the center just over the fire to one side, and to put the pieces from the sides in the center. The meat directly over the smoke colors faster than that on the sides, although the house is kept full of smoke constantly. Some farmers do not care to risk the safety of their meat by having an open fire under it, and so set up an old stove, either in the room or on the outside, in which latter case a pipe lets the smoke into the house. A smoldering fire is then kept up with corn cobs or chips. But there is almost as much danger this way as the other. The stovepipe may become so hot as to set fire to the walls of the house where it enters, or a blaze may be carried within if there is too much fire in the stove. There is some risk either way, but with a properly built smokehouse, there is no great danger from the plan described.

THE MEAT IS NOW CURED

and, if these directions have been observed, the farmer has a supply of bacon as good as the world can show. Some may prefer a “shorter cut” from the slaughter pen to the baking pan, and with their pyroligenous acid may scout the old-fashioned smoke as heathenish, and get their bacon ready for eating in two hours after the salt has struck in. But they never can show such bacon by their method as we can by ours. There is but one way to have this first-class bacon and ham, and that way is the one herein portrayed.

TO MAKE A SMOKEHOUSE FIREPROOF

as far as the stove ashes are concerned, is not necessarily an expensive job; all that is required is to lay up a row of brick across one end, also two or three feet back upon each side, connecting the sides with a row across the building, making it at least two feet high. As those who have a smokehouse use it nearly every year, that part can also be made safe from fire by the little arch built at the point shown in the illustration, Fig. [19]. The whole is laid up in mortar, and to add strength to the structure an iron rod or bar may be placed across the center of the bin and firmly imbedded in the mortar, two or three rows of brick from the top. Of course, the rear of the arch is also bricked up. In most cases, less than 250 brick will be all that is required.

FIG. 19. FIREPROOFING A SMOKEHOUSE.

A WELL ARRANGED SMOKEHOUSE.

A simple but satisfactory smokehouse is shown in the illustration, Fig. [20], and can be constructed on the farm at small cost. It is so arranged as to give direct action of smoke upon the meat within, and yet free from the annoyance that comes from entering a smoke-filled room to replenish the fire. The house is square, and of a size dependent upon the material one may have yearly to cure by smoke. For ordinary use, a house ten feet square will be ample. There are an entrance door on one side and a small window near the top that can be opened from the outside to quickly free the inside from the smoke when desired. At the bottom of one side is a small door, from which extends a small track to the center of the room. Upon this slides a square piece of plank, moved by an iron rod with a hook on one end. On the plank is placed an old iron kettle, Fig. [21], with four or five inches of earth in the bottom, and upon this is the fire to be built. The kettle can be slid to the center of the room with an iron rod and can be drawn to the small door at any time to replenish the fire without entering the smoky room or allowing the smoke to come out. The house has an earthen floor and a tight foundation of stone or brick. The walls should be of matched boarding and the roof shingled. The building is made more attractive in appearance if the latter is made slightly “dishing.”

SMOKING MEATS IN A SMALL WAY.

A fairly good substitute for a smokehouse, where it is desired to improvise something for temporary use in smoking hams or other meat, may be found in a large cask or barrel, arranged as shown in the engraving, Fig. [22]. To make this effective, a small pit should be dug, and a flat stone or a brick placed across it, upon which the edge of the cask will rest. Half of the pit is beneath the barrel and half of it outside. The head and bottom may be removed, or a hole can be cut in the bottom a little larger than the portion of the pit beneath the cask. The head or cover is removed, while the hams are hung upon cross sticks. These rest upon two cross bars, made to pass through holes bored in the sides of the cask, near the top. The head is then laid upon the cask and covered with sacks to confine the smoke. Some coals are put into the pit outside of the cask, and the fire is fed with damp corn cobs, hardwood chips, or fine brush. The pit is covered with a flat stone, by which the fire may be regulated, and it is removed when necessary to add more fuel.

FIG. 22. A BARREL SMOKEHOUSE.

ANOTHER BARREL SMOKEHOUSE.

For those who have only the hams and other meats from one or two hogs to smoke, a practicable smokehouse, like that shown in Fig. [23], will serve the purpose fairly well. A large barrel or good-sized cask should be used, with both heads removed. A hole about a foot deep is dug to receive it, and then a trench of about the same depth and six or eight feet long, leading to the fireplace. In this trench can be laid old stovepipe and the ground filled in around it. The meat to be smoked is suspended in the barrel and the lid put on, but putting pieces under it, so there will be enough draft to draw the smoke through. By having the fire some distance from the meat, one gets the desired amount of smoke and avoids having the meat overheated.

FIG. 23. BARREL SMOKEHOUSE WITH FRENCH DRAFT.

CHAPTER XII.

KEEPING BACONS AND HAMS.

The ideal meat house or smokehouse is a tall frame structure, twelve by fifteen or fifteen by eighteen feet, underpinned solidly with brick set a foot or more into the ground, or with a double set of sills, the bottom set being buried in the soil. This mode of underpinning is designed to prevent thieves from digging under the wall and into the house. Stout, inch-thick boards are used for the weatherboarding, and sometimes the studs are placed near enough together to prevent a person from getting through between them. The house is built tall to give more room for meat and to have it farther from the fire while it is being smoked. The weatherboarding and the roof should be tight to prevent too free escape of the smoke. No window, and but one door, is necessary. The floor should be of clay, packed firm, or else laid in cement or brick. Indeed, it would be better to have the entire walls built of brick, but this would add considerably to the cost of construction.

THE ROOM SHOULD BE LARGE ENOUGH

to admit of a platform on one or both sides, upon which to pack the pork when salted. There should be a salt barrel, a large wooden tray made of plank, in which to salt the meat, and a short, handy ladder for reaching the upper tier of joists. A large basket for holding chips, a tub for water when smoking meat, a large chopping block and a meat axe, for the convenience of the cook, are necessary articles for the meat house. Nothing else should be allowed to cumber the room to afford a harbor for rats or to present additional material for a blaze, in case a spark from the fire should snap out to a distance. The house should be kept neatly swept, and rats should not be allowed to make burrows under anything in the room. The floor of the meat house should always be of some hard material like cement or brick, or else clay pummeled very hard, so that there would be no hiding place for the pupae of the Dermestes (parent of the “skipper”).

The skipper undergoes one or two moltings while in the meat, and at last drops from the bacon to the floor, where, if the earth is loose, it burrows into the ground and, remaining all winter, comes out a perfect beetle in spring. A hard, impervious floor will prevent it from doing this, and compel it to seek a nesting place elsewhere. The reason why country bacon is sometimes so badly infested with the skipper is that the house and floor afford or become an excellent incubator, as it were, for the Dermestes, and the bacon bugs become so numerous that all the meat gets infested with them. In case the floor of the smokehouse is soft and yielding, it becomes necessary each winter, before the meat is packed to salt, to remove about two inches of the soil and put in fresh earth or clay in its place. Thus, many of the insects would be carried out, where they would be destroyed. The walls and roof of the room on the interior should also be swept annually to dislodge any pupae that might be hibernating in the cracks and crevices. With these precautions, there should not be many of the pests left within the building, though it is a hard matter when a house once gets badly infested to dislodge them entirely. There are so many hiding places about a plain shingle roof that it is next to impossible not to have some of these insects permanently lodged in the meat house. But with a good, hard floor, frequent sweeping and the use of plenty of black pepper on the meat, the number of the Dermestes should be reduced to the minimum.

BACON KEEPS NOWHERE SO WELL

as in the house where it is smoked, and if the bugs do not get too numerous it is decidedly better to allow it to remain hanging there. Bacon needs air and a cool, dry, dark room for keeping well in summer. The least degree of dampness is detrimental, causing the bacon to mold. It has been noticed, however, that moldy bacon is seldom infested with the skipper. Hence some people, to keep away the skippers, hang their bacon in a cellar where there is dampness, preferring to have it moldy rather than “skippery.” Some housekeepers preserve hams in close boxes or barrels, in a cool, dark room, and succeed well. Others pack in shelled oats or bran, or wrap in old newspapers and lay away on shelves or in boxes. Inclosing in cloth sacks and painting the cloth is also practiced. All these plans are more or less successful, but oblige the housekeeper to be constantly on the watch to prevent mice and ants from getting to the bacon. But if anyone should prefer

TO EXCLUDE THE BUGS ENTIRELY

from his meat the following contrivance is offered as a cheap and entirely satisfactory arrangement: After the meat is thoroughly smoked, hang all of it close together, or at least all the hams, in the center of the house, and inclose it on all sides with a light frame over which is stretched thin cotton cloth, taking care that there shall be no openings in the cloth or frame through which the bugs might crawl. There let it hang all summer. This contrivance will prevent the bug from getting at the meat to deposit its eggs, and the thin, open fabric of the cloth will at the same time admit plenty of air. The bottom or one side of the frame should be fixed upon hinges, for convenience in getting at the bacon as wanted. As the bacon bug comes out in March, or April farther south, in February it is necessary to get the meat smoked and inclosed under the canvas before the bug leaves its winter quarters. Hams may be thus kept in perfect condition as long as may be desirable, and will remain sweet and nice many months.

BOX FOR STORING BACON.

If the smokehouse is very dark and close, so that the flies or bugs will not be tempted to or can get in, all that is necessary is to have the meat hung on the pegs; but, if not, even when the meat is bagged, there is still some risk of worms. To provide a box that will be bugproof, ratproof, and at the same time cool, as seen in the illustration, Fig. [24], make a frame one inch thick and two or three inches wide, with a close plank bottom; cover the whole box with wire cloth, such, as is used for screens. Let the wire cloth be on the outside, so that the meat will not touch it. The top may be of plank and fit perfectly tight, so that no insect can creep under. Of course, the box may be of any size desired. It will be well to have the strips nailed quite closely together, say, about one and a half inches apart. When the meat is put in, lay sticks between, so that the pieces will not touch. If the box is made carefully, it is bugproof and ratproof, affording ventilation at the same time, and so preventing molding. Meat should be kept in a dry and cool place.

FIG. 24. SECURE BOX FOR STORING BACON.

CHAPTER XIII.