LINOTYPE MECHANISM
By Alvin G. Swank and
Raymond Means
Published by
SWANK AND MEANS
729 N. Bosart Ave.
Indianapolis, Indiana
COPYRIGHTED 1924
PRINTED IN U. S. A.
Preface
Changes and improvements on the Linotype have been frequent in the past, and will probably continue to be so in the future. For this reason students, operators, machinists, and owners should keep themselves posted on all matters pertaining to the Linotype. The only way this can be accomplished is by reading, studying, and observing. All books, pamphlets, or trade journals dealing with printing should be carefully read, and the articles pertaining to improvements on typesetting machinery should be carefully studied. Pamphlets or trade journals will either be discarded or lost; whereas a book will be placed on the desk, bench, or in the pocket of the one who desires to be well informed of things dealing with the machine. Frequent reading or reference will refresh the memory on minor points forgotten or overlooked.
This book has been produced as an endeavor to furnish a much-needed text or reference book for the aid of the Linotype student, the user, and the experienced worker. Simple terms, which will enable the student to grasp the fundamentals quickly, have been used throughout the book, but when the name of a part is necessary, the catalog name is used. No illustrations are used, as the book is intended for use where the actual machine is available for study, and the parts may be seen. The main parts of the machine are listed with a description of their action and function. Mechanical troubles that are common to the Linotype are mentioned, together with helpful suggestions for their remedy. All adjustments necessary to the proper care of the machine are listed. The user of Linotypes will find helpful hints as to the care and adjustments of the machines.
In the schools using machines, this book will fill a long-felt want. It is the first attempt to write a text book of this nature that can be used in lesson form. The class schedule will lead the student to a systematic study of the machine. The text matter is so arranged that the student is led in a natural way through the things he should know first. With the schedule arrangement the instructor is enabled to arrange his mechanism classes at any hour or as many hours as he desires.
THE KEYBOARD
The linotype keyboard is power driven and mechanically operated, the operator merely touching the keybutton lightly to get a matrix. The keyboard and escapement mechanism consists of ninety-one mechanical units, or series of levers, escapements, and cams—one series for each key on the keyboard.
The keyboard consists of the frame; the keylevers, extending through the slots to the back of the keyboard frame; the keylever fulcrum rods, which are the pivot rods for the keylevers; the keybars, that groove into the rear end of the keylevers; the keybar banking bar, (fastened to the right- and left-hand keyboard posts), holding the keybars in place; and the keyboard locking bar. The various parts of the keyboard are held in their respective places by the keyboard frame.
Mounted on the top, at the rear of the keyboard, are the two cam yoke frames. The keyboard cam yoke frames contain the cams and the cam yokes, assembled; the cam yoke triggers; the cam stop strips; the hinge rods; the keyboard cam rubber roll shafts, with the pulleys or the gears and friction springs; and the rubber rolls, assembled. The frames are fastened to the keyboard posts by a screw at each end of the frame, which extends through the rubber roll shaft brackets. Both the frames are equipped with cover pans.
The keyboard action for releasing a matrix from the magazine is as follows: When the keybutton is depressed it lowers the outer end of the keylever, raising the back end. The keylever raises the keybar. The keybar raises the lower end of the trigger, causing the upper end to tilt. This allows the free end of the cam yoke to drop, causing the cam to engage the revolving rubber roll. The cam is revolved by the rubber roll, and as it reaches the high point it raises the free end of the cam yoke. This end of the cam yoke engages the keyrod and causes it to be raised. The keyrod operates the escapement mechanism in the magazine and releases the matrix.
Keyboard Parts
The keylevers extend through slots in the keyboard frame and are pivoted near their center by the fulcrum rods. The front end of the keylevers carry the keybuttons and the back ends fit into notches in the keybars.
The keybars are held in place on the back of the keyboard by the banking bar and the upper and lower keybar guides. The keybars have notches on the upper end into which the triggers set. Also there are notches into which the keylevers extend. These notches are cut at different points on each six keybars, to correspond with the point at which the keylever protrudes through the frame.
On the late model machines the keybars are made with notches so they will fit in any alternate position, each bar having three notches, any one of which will register with the keylever. In removing the bars for cleaning, always take them off in groups of six and keep them in order so that no difficulty will be experienced in replacing them. It is always better to replace each bar in its original place after having them off.
The keyboard locking bar extends across the back of the keyboard, just above a shoulder on the keybars. When this bar is forced down it prevents the keybar from being raised, thus locking the keyboard.
Keyboard Cams and Parts
The keyboard cams are small, brass, non-circular or eccentric pieces and are used to raise the cam yokes to operate the keyrods. The cams are pivoted and held in place in cam yokes. The outer end of the cam yokes are pivoted to the frame, while the inner ends are left free to move up or down in slots in the frame, directly underneath the keyrods.
When the cams are setting at normal, the free end of the yokes are supported by the pivoted triggers, which set directly beneath the yokes. When a trigger is moved by the keybar, it allows the free end of the yoke to drop, carrying the cam against the revolving rubber roll. The low part of the cam has small teeth cut in it, so when it drops on the revolving rubber roll, it is caused to turn. When the high part of the revolving cam is on the rubber roll, the free end of the cam yoke is raised to its highest point, raising the keyrod.
There are ninety-one cams and yokes in a keyboard. In order to get the cams in the smallest possible space, forty-five of them are located in the front frame, and forty-six in the back frame. The cam on the right-hand end of the back row is used to operate the spaceband lever.
A stop strip is fastened by means of six screws to each cam frame in such a manner that the small cross pins in the revolving cams come in contact with small pins which extend downward, stopping the cams after their revolution and holding them in normal position. The front strip has forty-five teeth and the rear strip has forty-six teeth; therefore they are not interchangeable. The strip should be located so the teeth do not bind the sides of the cams.
The top row of keys on the keyboard operate the cams in the back frame, the keys in the second row operate the cams in the front frame, the third in the back, etc., alternating for each row, so when tracing keyboard troubles it is known in which frame an offending cam will be found.
Several types of cam yokes have been manufactured for the various models of machines. Some are made of brass, others are stamped out of steel, while still another kind is milled out of a solid piece of steel. Different methods of fastening the pivoted end of the yoke have also been used. The older models were held by a pivot wire which ran through the yoke. The later models, however, have spring bars which set just above the pivoted end of the yoke, the yoke being hooked on the hinge rod and held down by a spring and plunger directly above the yoke, in the bar. This spring and plunger takes the strain off the yoke and keyrod when in an unusually heavy pull, and prevents damage to the rubber rolls.
On the top of the spring bar is an adjusting screw bushing through which the plunger projects. This plunger is forced against the top of the cam yoke by a spring. As the free end of the cam yoke raises, the spring must be strong enough to hold the pivoted end of the yoke from raising more than enough to give the full stroke of the keyrod. If something prevents the free movement of the escapement, the strain would come to the pivoted end of the yoke, forcing the plunger up, thus releasing the keyrod, cam, or rubber roll of undue strain. If this spring becomes weak, it will allow the pivoted end of the yoke to raise too high, thus lessening the up stroke of the keyrod. This shortened stroke of the keyrod does not permit the full stroke operation of the escapement, and does not allow the matrix to drop.
A weak spring will sometimes cause the matrix to drop slowly, due to the lug of the matrix binding on the lower pawl. By using the adjusting bushing this trouble can be remedied. Be careful in adjusting the spring, because too much tension will cause the cam to cut the rubber roll.
On some models the spaceband cam is of a different shape or larger than the other cams. This is done to accomplish the timing of the dropping of the spacebands.
To remove a single cam from the frame, shut off the power of the machine, take off the cover pans, touch the keybutton of the desired cam, draw out the pivot wire on old models or release the latch and tilt the spring bar on new models, turn the rubber rolls by hand until the end of the cam yoke raises, then lift the yoke and cam out.
Keyboard Rubber Rolls
The rubber rolls are held on shafts which extend through the cam frame. The right end of the shafts run in bushings which are held in the cam frame by a screw extending through the cam frame bracket into the shaft bushing. Two kinds of rubber rolls may be obtained: corrugated and ground. The rolls must be kept free from oil at all times. About once each month they should be removed and washed with soap and water to remove all oil, and freshen the rubber. The rubber roll may be livened up by the use of course sandpaper, rubbing from end to end and turning the roll so it does not become flat. The roll should be washed after using the sandpaper to remove the small particles of rubber that may be adhering to the surface.
If the rubber rolls become worn until they are grooved where the cams operate on them, or if they become hard with long use, they should be replaced with new rubber. Good, live rubber rolls have much to do with quick, even response of the matrices.
A rubber roll that is in good shape with the exception of a groove or two, can be used by cutting out the worn parts and placing in a good piece of another roll and fitting it to the shaft. Save parts of old rubber rolls for this purpose. They at least may be valuable for emergency patching, until a new roll can be ordered from the factory.
The rubber roll shafts are driven by friction, so that if anything binds unduly the shaft will stop, preventing damage to the rubber.
To replace a rubber roll, remove the old roll, polish the shaft, using care to clean thoroughly. A new roll must fit tightly and if the shaft is not clean and smooth, it will be hard to force the new roll on. Place the shaft in an upright position, start the end of the roll through the pulley end of the shaft. Place your thumb or hand over the other end of the roll to hold in the air and push down on the roll until it is in position.
On the later models the shaft carries a collar, pin, and oil collar on each end. This assembly must be removed on one end before the roll can be removed. The collar is held to the shaft by a taper pin and the oil collar forced over the top of the pin and collar. This oil collar must be pried off before the pin can be driven out.
Keyboard Troubles
Many of the mechanical troubles will be found in the keyboard, such as continuous response or non-response of matrices.
The keylevers sometimes get gummy or sprung to one side and bind on the frame, causing a continuous response of matrices. Another cause for continuous response may often be traced to some foreign substance such as metal shavings or dirt getting between the keylever and the frame.
A large percentage of keyboard troubles can be traced to the keybars. Most continuous response trouble is due to dirty or sticking keybars. These bars have several points of contact with other parts, and frequently a very small particle of dirt or dust will prevent the proper return of the keybar after being raised. This will hold the trigger out from under the cam yoke, which will continue to revolve and cause more than one matrix to drop. This trouble can usually be remedied by blowing out all dust from around the keybars and then washing them with gasoline, using a squirt can or brush to apply the gasoline. Before applying the gasoline, it is best to place a pan or cloth beneath the keybars to catch the surplus gasoline.
Be very careful not to get any gasoline on the cams or rubber rolls, as it will cut the lubrication on the yoke pivot and soften the rubber roll. After washing the bars, blow the surplus gasoline off with an air hose or bellows. Keep the air from the keyboard cams as much as possible, as it has a tendency to dry the oil on the yoke pivot pins, causing slow moving cams.
Sometimes the trouble is above the keybar banking bar. In this case it will be necessary to remove the back cam frame to clean the bars above the banking bar.
Should the keyboard locking bar become loose it may drop down a trifle and, preventing free action of the keybars, make the keyboard touch heavy.
In addition to the continuous response caused by the keylever or keybar, sometimes a dirty and sticking trigger or the trigger hinge rod being bent will cause this trouble. If one of the pins in the stop strip or the cam becomes worn or broken, the cam will continue to revolve.
Some of the common troubles of non-response might be caused by the free end of the cam yoke being dirty or gummy, a rusty, gummy, or bent cam yoke hinge rod, not allowing the cam to drop. A dry cam pivot will often prevent the cam from turning. A hard or oily rubber roll will not cause the cam to turn, especially on a cold morning. A tooth on the stop strip being bent sideways might bind the cam. Something binding the rubber roll, not allowing it to revolve, stops all cam response. A dry cam pivot or a sluggish cam will cause transposition of letters.
To locate the cause of a non-response, first observe if the keyrod is moving. If it is, the trouble will probably be found in the magazine or magazine escapement. If the keyrod does not raise, look for the trouble in the keyboard.
Do not take the keyboard apart every time a few matrices fail to respond correctly. It is much quicker to correct the trouble with the individual parts that may be bothering. Always locate the cause of the trouble before attempting to correct it.
KEYBOARD LAYOUT
There are two standard layouts in common use. The one most commonly used, especially in commercial shops, has the small capital layout shown on the keybuttons. The fractions run as side sorts when this layout is used. In the other standard layout the fractions are run in the keyboard. This is frequently used on newspapers for setting markets, stock reports, and tables, where a great number of fractions are used.
There are a variety of different keyboard layouts for different classes of work, but no great variation from the standard layout is advisable.
TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD CAM FRAMES
Be sure the keyrods are connected to the verges on the models 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5. On the models 1, 2, or 3 the keyboard should not be locked with the locking bar.
Take off the cover pans and the cover tray, remove the two screws that extend through the rubber roll shaft bracket, pull the frame off dowel pins.
CLEANING THE KEYBOARD CAMS
Whenever the keyboard cams become dirty and several of them are causing trouble, the entire set should be removed from the frame and cleaned. Do not take the entire set off, however, every time a cam fails to act. If there are but a few cams bothering, it is much quicker to take out these individual cams and clean them.
The entire set of cams will usually need cleaning and oiling every three or four months in the average shop. Due to some particular shop surroundings, this time often varies.
To clean the cams, remove the keyboard cam frames from the machine; take out the rubber rolls, assembled; release the pivot end of the cam yokes and remove the cams. The sides of the cam yokes at each end and the outer surface of the cam should be thoroughly cleaned. Dry the cam by wiping with a lintless rag and blowing with an air hose or bellows. The triggers should then be removed and cleaned. While the cams and triggers are out of the frame, the frame should be washed clean. Gasoline or denatured alcohol should be used for washing and cleaning the various parts. A jeweler’s brush will be found useful in cleaning the various parts.
Before replacing the triggers, polish them with graphite and string them on a pivot wire to make sure that no dirt nor grit has gotten into the pivot holes during the cleaning.
Clean the rubber rolls before replacing them.
Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should be oiled. Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and put a small drop on the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary pen will be found convenient for applying the oil. Be sure to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it being transferred to the rubber rolls.
NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the machine, see that the bracket screws that extend into the frame at each end are loose. If the screws draw the brackets too tight, difficulty will be experienced in seating the brackets to the dowels on the posts. Be sure to lock the keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire through the upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in normal position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will pass under the lower end of the keyrods.
TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART
Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to clean, it should be removed from the machine in the following manner: Remove the keyboard cam frames. Remove the assembling elevator lever. Procure a strip of wood furniture fifteen inches long, which is the proper length to just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong cord to each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, bring the string inside of the side posts to the front of the keyboard. Draw the two ends of the string tight, so that the strip can not move, and fasten it to the keylevers. Take out the two keyboard side plate bracket screws (on each side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take out the four keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off the dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the machine and lift it out. Place the frame on a bench or table in a slightly inclined position with the rear end the higher. Take out the lower row of keylevers by removing the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping them in their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured alcohol or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a jeweler’s brush the parts that come in contact with the frame. If there is any corrosion left, polish the levers with metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag. The keybars should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal polish. Wash the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and wipe dry. If an air hose is available, blow all the parts dry with the air.
When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place the lower row of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod through the holes; then assemble the next rows, using the same procedure for each row. This method makes it easy to assemble the keylevers.
After the board has been assembled, test out each key to see that it is working freely, before replacing the strip of wood.
When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars must fit over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the plate extending underneath them until the banking bar dowel pins fit into the dowel pin holes.
It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only once or twice a year unless the shop conditions around the machine are very dirty.
KEYRODS
The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard cam yokes and extend upward to the escapement mechanism. They are the connection between the escapements and the keyboard cams. On the models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90; the spaceband being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower guide is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the upper guide is directly under the magazine at the front. The object of the upper guide is to hold the keyrods in place when locking them on the verges, as they should rest squarely on the verges.
On the model 1 the upper guides are adjustable sidewise by changing the position of the brass lug on the right side of the magazine in which the tongue of the guide fits. In making this adjustment use the lower case “p” as a guide. On the models 3 and 5 there is a screw bushing in the right-hand side of the intermediate bracket for the adjustment of the keyrod upper guide.
When replacing keyrods in the guides, start at the left-hand side with the first slot in the bottom guide, but leave the first slot open in the top guide. This guide slot is for an extra keyrod for use in the special double “e” attachment which may be applied.
The keyrods vary in length on the different models. On models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 9, and K the keyrods are very short and are used to operate a curved lever known as the escapement lever, which in turn operates the escapement.
On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrod is pulled back to its proper position by the keyrod spring. The action of this spring in pulling the keyrod to position stresses the verge spring and pulls the escapement into normal, allowing the rear pawl to release the matrix so it can slide into position to be caught and held by the front pawl.
On models K, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, and 9 the keyrod is returned to position by the weight of the escapement lever, and by its own weight, the verge spring pulling the escapement back into position.
On the later model 1 the keyrods have a groove near the upper ends and a supporting rail attached to the upper guide plate which keeps them from dropping when they are disconnected from the verges.
On the model 5 this supporting rail is near the bottom end of the keyrods, just above the keyrod springs, and is connected to a short handle at the right end above the keyboard. The keyrods can be disconnected from the verges only when the handle is lifted.
AUXILIARY KEYRODS
On models 14 and 19 there is an auxiliary magazine which has 28 channels. There are 28 short keyrods assembled the same as on a model 5. These keyrods are operated by an auxiliary keyboard. There is a supporting rail at the upper end of these keyrods, connected with a handle at the right side of the auxiliary bracket. The keyrods can only be disconnected from the verges when the handle is lifted. These keyrods are disconnected the same as on a model 5 machine.
MODEL FOURTEEN SINGLE KEYBOARD
On the new model 14, known as model 14 single keyboard, there are 34 channels and short keyrods on the auxiliary instead of 28. These keyrods are operated from the regular keyboard. There is a lug pressed in the back of the keyrods. These lugs are staggered on the various keyrods and come in contact with a series of pivoted levers in a box containing 34 of these levers, fastened at the back of the keyrods of the main part of the machine.
The main keyrods, from the figure 1 up to and including the caps (34 in all), have a lug pressed into the back side of them. These lugs are also staggered on the keyrods so they can be brought into contact with the fulcrumed levers in the box. This box is known as a bail box.
The upper keyrod guide slots are made longer for these keyrods to slide back or forth, actuated by a hand lever that is placed below the assembler entrance and resting on the delivery slideway. The auxiliary is brought into operation by shoving back on this lever, which brings the keyrods and lugs in contact with the bail box levers, and they in turn operate the keyrods of the auxiliary whenever a key is touched.
MAGAZINES AND ESCAPEMENTS
Escapement Mechanism
The escapement mechanism of models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 machines consists of two pawls, a verge, and a verge spring for each character in the magazine. The verge is hinged on a pivot rod. The lower end of the pawls are seated in the verge, and the upper end projects through the under side of the magazine and engages the lower lugs of the matrices. When the escapement is at its normal position, the lower or front pawl extends up into the magazine and holds the column of matrices in the channel. The end of the upper pawl is flush with the bottom of the channel groove. The verge and pawls are held in this position by the keyrod, which hooks onto the verge. This keyrod is held down by its own weight and a spring near its lower end. The verge spring, which sets directly back of and against the verge, has its tension upward on the verge. When the key is touched and the cam yoke raises the keyrod, it releases the verge, which is pulled upward by the verge spring. This action lowers the front pawl and raises the back pawl, releasing the front matrix. The back pawl detains the other matrices, holding them in the channel until the verge is restored to normal. The keyrod spring pulls the keyrod down. The verge, being hooked to the keyrod is pulled down also. This brings the front pawl up and the back pawl down, letting the matrix slide to position ready for the next escapement. This verge action is the same on all single magazine models.
Each magazine of a model 1, 2, or 3 machine carries the escapement assembly on the bottom, at the front, directly above the keyrod upper guide.
On a model 5 the verge escapement is fastened by means of two screws and two dowel pins to the intermediate bracket of the machine. To remove: Take off the magazine and then raise the keyrods with the hand lever at the right of the keyrods. This will leave the keyrods free to be pushed back from the verges, by withdrawing the spring pin which holds the upper keyrod guide to the verge pivot rod at the right-hand side, under the escapements, and pushing back on the guide. The escapements can then be removed by taking out the two screws, one at each end, and lift off the dowel pins.
The escapement mechanism of models 8, 14, 18, 19, 14-s-k, and K is similar to the model explained above, except that the verge spring pulls downward on the verge instead of upward, as in the other models. The escapement is operated by the escapement lever and a plunger from the front. The keyrod forces the escapement lever upward. The lever strikes the plunger and forces it against the verge.
The model 8 or 14 verge escapements can be removed by raising the magazine and pushing the escapement back from between the escapement supports.
MAGAZINES
The magazine is the receptacle in which a font of matrices is stored on the machine, ready for instant use as the matrices are desired in assembling a line. Some of the main features of the different model machines are the number of magazines carried on the machine at one time, the size or width of the magazine, and the manner of removing the magazines.
The magazine or channel plate consists of 92 channels milled in the brass plates, which guide the lugs of the matrices and keep them in line, so as to pass the escapements one at a time. Model 1 magazines have the old style channel entrances, attached to each magazine frame. The model 1 magazines are narrow, and will only carry matrices up to and including 11-point. The escapements of this model are fastened directly to the magazine.
The magazine for a model 2 or 3 machine is practically the same as a model 1 in construction, with the exception of being two inches wider at the lower end.
The verges on these models are practically the same as on the model 1, but on account of the difference in width of the magazines, are thicker. In this style the verges are locked by turning the grooved escapement verge locking bar one-fourth of a turn. This is turned by the crank at the right-hand side of the magazine. The keyboard is locked with a bar the same as the model 1.
The channel entrance is similar to the model 1.
The lower magazine of the model 2 is shorter than the upper magazine. The matrices are released by the same keyboard mechanism. The escapements, however, are on the top of the magazine instead of beneath it. Each keyrod has a lug fastened to the back end of it, which engages the escapement levers connected to the escapements. When the lower magazine is being used, the keyrod is raised and allows the verge spring to operate the escapement, releasing the matrix. The keyrod spring pulls the escapement lever down. This lever brings the escapement into position, ready to release another matrix.
The escapements on both magazines are capable of movement, as the verge springs of both tend to raise the escapements, but are prevented from doing so by the keyrod spring. The matrices are prevented from escaping from both magazines at the same time by a pair of grooved rods, which lie between the verges and the magazine. The locks on these rods are so arranged that the locking of one escapement unlocks the other, the movement of these being controlled by a hand lever at the right of the face plate, directly above the keyboard.
The model 3 magazine is the same as the model 2 (upper). The escapement action is also the same.
The upper magazine of a model 4 is a removable magazine which is independent of the escapement mechanism or the channel entrance. This magazine is as wide as the model 2 or 3, but is not interchangeable with them. This magazine is interchangeable with those of a model 5, 8, 14, 18, 19, or 14-s-k.
The lower magazine of a model 4 is the same as a model 2, but it is easily removed from the machine, as the escapement mechanism is independent of the magazine.
The escapement on the model 4 is the same as on the model 2, except that the escapement mechanism is fastened to the machine brackets instead of to the magazine.
On models 2 and 4 there are two channels of lower case “e” matrices. The mechanism for the operation of the double “e” is one keyboard cam to be connected alternately to the two short keyrods which connect with the two “e” verges. The shifting of a short keyrod from one to the other keyrods is accomplished by the raising of the assembling elevator, which operates a lever fastened to the assembling elevator link. This link comes in contact with a pawl and ratchet that operate the short keyrod by shifting alternately. This attachment can be applied to any model of machine.
The model 5 is a quick change machine. The magazine changes from the front and can be lifted off by one person. The escapement mechanism is separate from the magazine.
The model 5 magazine is the same as the model 4 and is interchangeable with any of the above mentioned models except models 1, 2, or 3.
The No. 5 (English) magazine is now known as the standard magazine. This magazine is used on all models 4, 5, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, and 19 machines.
The model 8 machine carries 3 of these No. 5 magazines. All magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. The magazines are interchangeable as to their position in the machine. They are also interchangeable with the same No. 5 magazines on other machines.
The model 14 is the same as the model 8, except that it has an auxiliary magazine.
Model 18, which carries two magazines, uses the same magazines as a model 5, 8, or 14. The escapements are hung to the magazine frame, but are like the model 5, 8, or 14 escapements, and are held in place by two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazines at the front. By shifting a lever at the right of the magazine frame, the position of the magazines is changed.
The model 19 is the same as the model 18, except that it has an auxiliary magazine.
REMOVING A MAGAZINE
It is sometimes necessary to remove the magazines of any model of machine for the purpose of cleaning or repairing, or to change the type face.
Read carefully the instructions for the removing of the magazines until you become thoroughly familiar with the order of procedure. To forget one operation or to perform an operation at the wrong time may cause the matrices to be spilled or something more serious.
To remove a model 1 magazine: Lock the verges by placing the locking wire above the shoulder of the back pawls, lock the keyboard by inserting the locking rod in the slotted hole in the right-hand keyboard post and shove the rod through the full length of the keyboard. This rod passes under the end of the keyboard cam yokes and raises them, which raises the keyrods off the verges a trifle. Unlatch the upper keyrod guide at the right-hand side and move the keyrods off the verges. Pull the flexible front of the assembler plate forward as far as the chain permits it to come. Remove the tray under the rear channel entrance, raise the magazine to a level position and push it through toward the rear and lift out carefully. It requires two persons to remove a magazine of this model.
In returning the magazine be careful that it is moved forward the full distance before the front end is lowered; or the lift lever of the distributor box may be damaged.
To remove the upper magazine from a model 2: Unlatch the connecting links between the verge locks, throw the verge lock of the upper magazine down one-fourth of a turn, and slip the sliding block on the side of the upper magazine downward. This holds the upper verge lock. Lock the keyboard, and depress the pin beneath the verges of the upper magazine, at the right. This pin holds the keyrod guide and keyrods to the verges. Push the guide back and disconnect the keyrods. The lower end of the upper magazine can now be raised and the magazine drawn out of the machine at the back. Use care not to damage the lower magazine or back entrance.
To remove the lower magazine of a model 2: Remove the upper magazine, throw the keyrods forward with the lever, draw out the rod beneath the magazine mouth. This rod holds the matrix guides for the lower magazine in place. Lift out the magazine, using care not to damage the escapements or levers.
To remove the model 5 magazine: Insert the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. This bar holds the matrices in the channels. The bar also releases the lock at the left-hand side of the magazine and permits the cam levers to be turned or brought forward into position for holding the magazine. Pull forward the spring lock which fits over the lower end of the magazine. With the cam levers, raise the magazine frame. Lift the front end of the magazine and it will slide forward; then by allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in a vertical position on the levers. Close the cover at the top of the magazine and lift off.
The above method of locking must be followed with any No. 5 magazine on any model.
To remove any of the three magazines from a model 8 or 14 proceed in the following manner:
Any magazine should be in operating position before it is removed.
The upper magazine is removed similarly to a model 5. Place the locking rod in the magazine to lock the matrices and unlock the catch at left of the magazine. Take off the bar which extends across the top side of the magazine. Turn the cam levers forward, and lift the magazine off.
To remove the second magazine: Insert the locking bar in the top and second magazines. Raise the magazines with the elevating mechanism, as high as they will go. Place the frame supports under the upper magazine frame. Remove the bar which extends across the top side of the top magazine. Turn the elevating crank until the frame descends and the second magazine is in operating position, leaving the upper magazine elevated. Place the right- and left-hand cams on the second magazine frame. Lift out the escapements of the upper magazine. Then proceed as in removing the upper magazine.
To remove the third magazine: Remove the two upper magazines and take off the frame cams; take out the eight screws that hold the right- and left-hand gibs to the frame guides; remove the gibs, using care not to get them mixed. Remove the two frames from the guides; take out the two clamps that hold the lower magazine at the rear. Have a helper stand on the frame of the machine in the rear, and reach over the top of the distributor beam to assist in lifting the magazine, while the operator in front gradually raises the magazine clear of the escapement frame. Take out the escapements by removing the two screws in the left-hand support and pry it off dowel pin holes. Be careful to hold the escapement with one hand so it does not drop.
To remove a magazine from a model 18 or 19: Put the lower magazine in operating position. Insert the locking strips. Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go, which spreads apart the two magazines. Drop the escapements down by releasing the two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazine. The clamp on the left is fitted with a lock so it can not be dropped unless the locking strip is all the way through. Fasten the two shoes for the magazine bar to slide on, in the holes provided for them, and lift off magazine from the front. Either magazine can be lifted off.
In making the above changes, be sure you have locked the magazine. In replacing the magazine on the escapements be sure that the magazine is seated properly before removing the locking bar.
New Model 8 and 14 Single Keyboard
These models change practically the same as other models, but the lower magazine can be changed as easily and quickly as the top or center magazines.
This is accomplished by changes in the locating rods, guides, and elevating screw which permit raising the magazine frames higher, clearing the assembler plate far enough to slide the lower magazine out the same as the other two.
The escapements are hung to the magazine frame in the same manner as the models 18 and 19, and are held in place by the clamps, but the latter clamps are tightened by means of screws and knurled knobs instead of springs.
To remove a magazine from a late model 8 or 14-s-k: Put the magazine in operating position next to the one to be changed; if the top one is to be changed, put the second magazine in operating position; if the second one, place the lower magazine in position. Lock the locking strip, drop the escapements down by releasing the two knurled knob screws that clamp the escapement over the top of the magazine. Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go; fasten the two shoes for the magazine bar to slide on in the lugs provided for them and lift off the magazine from the front.
Split Magazines
Split magazines can be used on models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 21, and 22. These magazines are just half the length of the regular magazines and carry 12 matrices of each character. These magazines are very handy, where a large amount of changes are made, because of their lightness. On account of the short fonts carried, they are not desirable for use below 12-point, except in some job faces.
These magazines are changed the same as the full length magazines.
Auxiliary Magazines
Auxiliary magazines are narrow, having only 28 channels, and are operated by separate auxiliary escapements, keyrods, and keyboard. They are extensively used for carrying headletter and advertising fonts, and two-line figures. They can be changed the same as changing a model 5 magazine.
The newer style auxiliary, used on the model 14 single keyboard, is wider and has 34 channels; permitting the use of larger faces and carrying more of an assortment of characters than the older model. This magazine is operated by separate keyrods and escapements connecting with the regular keyboard through the medium of a series of fulcrumed levers, which can, by the operation of a small lever, be brought into instant use at will from the regular keyboard.
Model K
The model K is a two magazine machine with magazines the same width as the model 1. This model does not differ materially from a model 1 except that it has two interchangeable narrow magazines supported in a frame similar to the frame of a model 19. The magazines are changed by pulling a lever at the right of the magazine frame. This machine carries the short keyrods, escapement levers, and escapements similar to a model 19, except that the escapements are fastened to the magazine. These magazines are changed from the front. They are not interchangeable with a model 1 magazine. The other parts of the machine are the same as any of the other models.
Model L
The model L is a rebuilt machine along the same lines as a model 5. The magazine changes from the front the same as a model 5. The escapements are fastened to the intermediate brackets similar to a model 5.
To change a magazine on this model: Lock the matrices by inserting the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. Raise the cam levers to positions, lift the front end of the magazine, and it will slide forward. By allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in a vertical position ready to be lifted off.
To remove the verges from this model it is necessary to use the locking rod that comes with the machine. This rod is similar to the one used on the model 1, except it has an extra strip at the top which raises the keyrods higher. Insert this strip in the hole in the keyboard post at the right; push through as far as it will go. This will lift the keyrods free of the verges; they can now be pushed back by releasing the latch that holds the upper keyrod guides to the verge pivot rod at the right, and pushing back on the guide. The escapements can now be removed by taking out the two screws, one at each end, and lift off dowel pins.
TO REMOVE A VERGE
Remove the magazine or escapements from the machine and place bottom side up on a bench or table. On a model 1, with a pair of duck bill pliers, straighten the bent ears on the verge partition which holds the narrow brass locking strip in place. Raise the strip to a point beyond the desired verge. (On the other models there is no strip to be removed.) Push out the pivot rod with another rod of the same size, until you reach the desired verge; separate the ends of the two rods and lift out the verge and its pawls. Verges are made in various sizes and care should be taken that a verge of the same size is used in replacing. Examine the verge and pawl to see that there is nothing to retard its free action. Examine the verge spring for wear at the point of contact with the verge. If the verge does not work freely the matrices can not drop properly.
Failure of Matrices to Respond
(Due to trouble above the keyboard)
When the matrices fail to respond to the touch and the keyboard and keyrods have been found to be working properly, the trouble may be due to: Dirty magazine, dirty matrices, bent or damaged lugs on the matrices, weak verge spring, bent verge pawl, bent verge plunger, broken verge, verge not making full stroke, magazine not aligning with the assembler front partitions, matrix laying flat in the magazine and holding others back, no matrices in the channel, battered channel, keyrod spring weak or off.
CLEANING A MAGAZINE
To clean a magazine, run out all the matrices into a galley and place the magazine in a convenient place for cleaning. Magazines which have the verges assembled on them should be placed with the bottom side up in order to prevent the dirt getting in around the pawls while cleaning. With a good magazine brush, clean all dirt and gum from the inside of the magazine. If the magazine is very dirty, first use a little good gasoline or denatured alcohol on the brush to cut all the gum loose. Brush the magazine and use the air until dry on the inside. Then polish the inside by applying a very small amount of graphite on the brush and rubbing briskly.
In cleaning a magazine, be sure that all the little dark spots, which show where the lugs of the matrices set in the magazine, are removed. These spots are gum which forms in the magazine, due to oil and dirt which are carried in on the lugs of the matrices. If these spots are not entirely removed it would be better not to clean the magazine at all. When they are merely loosened up by the cleaning, the matrices will be held back and will not drop regularly.
Frequently the bristles of the brush will get caught in the partitions of the magazine and pull out of the brush. These can usually be removed by dragging the edge of a soft pine yard-stick across them.
Keep the various parts of the machine, with which the matrices come in contact, clean and free from oil, and the magazine will not get dirty for some time.
CLEANING MATRICES
Matrices to be cleaned should be placed on a flat galley. With an ink eraser (Banner Eberhard Faber No. 1071) remove the gum or dirt from the lugs and the face. Then blow the loose dust off with the air. Place another galley bottom side up over the galley of matrices and turn both galleys and the matrices over. The back lugs and back side of the matrices may then be cleaned the same as the face.
Magazine Hints
Never oil the escapements nor put oil in the magazine. To do so will cause escapement trouble.
Do not slam the magazine entrance when closing it. There may be a matrix overhanging the edge that you have overlooked, and you will damage the matrix and the back end of the magazine.
Never pound the magazine to make matrices drop. Locate the cause of the trouble and remove it.
Don’t forget, when pulling down the magazine entrance, to do so quickly, as opening it slowly is liable to cause a matrix to fall into the magazine flatwise.
Never try to force a matrix past the escapement. If it will not come through easily, pull it out the back way.
A wooden reglet with a rubber band around the end will be found convenient for removing a flat matrix from the magazine.
Never attempt to remove a magazine without first inserting the locking bar.
Do not expect a rusty or bent locking bar to work freely. Clean it; if bent, straighten it.
Never put a No. 5 magazine on the machine until you have run your fingers along the opening at the back side of the lower end to make sure there are no matrices with the lugs in the opening. If there are, push them back in the magazine. Just one lug in this opening will prevent the magazine seating properly.
ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR
The assembling elevator is held in place on the face plate by the two gibs, one on each side, and by the assembler roll bracket on the lower right-hand side.
The assembling elevator on all the later model machines consists of two castings, held together at the bottom by a large screw and dowel pins. The two castings carry, as the main parts, the assembler gate, retaining pawls, the duplex rails, the buffer parts on which the matrices strike, the releasing pin, the latch, and the detaining plates.
The matrices, when falling from the magazines, are guided downward by a series of flexible partitions. These partitions are thin strips fastened to the assembler plate and are bent at an angle at the bottom to cause the matrix to drop flat on an endless conveyer belt which carries them to the assembler rails. These rails are so shaped that the matrices slide between them and the chute spring into the assembling elevator and are moved forward into the elevator by a star wheel.
As the matrix is caught by the star wheel, it is pushed between the two assembling elevator rail pawls and seated on the elevator buffers. The matrix is held in place at the bottom of the elevator by two detaining plates. When these parts are in perfect condition, the matrix will set straight in the elevator.
The back buffer is made of steel, and sets flush with the edge of the back rail of the elevator. The front buffer receives most of the impact of the matrices and there is not much wear to the back one, unless the front buffer is badly worn. The back buffer may be renewed if necessary.
The front buffer is a removable fiber plate set in the bottom and flush with the edge of the rail. The purpose of this buffer is to prevent wear on the bottom lug of the matrix. When the plate is worn, it can be replaced.
The matrix will have a tendency to fall back on the star wheel if the buffer is worn. A good way to determine whether the front buffer is worn is to run down a few matrices in the assembler, then open the gate and observe whether the matrices near the end fall forward slightly, dropping below the level of the rest of the line. If the matrices drop very much, a new buffer should be applied.
The detaining plates, at the bottom of the assembling elevator, are for the purpose of keeping the bottom of the matrix from falling between the assembling elevator and the assembler. These plates must be kept in good condition, and the screws which hold them kept tight, or thin matrices will get in between the elevator and assembler, causing trouble in assembling the line.
Assembled at the right of the assembling elevator back rail and the gate are the two assembling elevator rail pawls. These rail pawls are operated by springs, the tension of which should be just strong enough to hold the matrix. The pawls should keep the matrices from falling back on the star wheel.
Most fonts of matrices, up to and including 14-point, have two letters or characters on the casting edge. The characters to be cast must be presented at the proper level in front of the mold cell. To enable the operator to utilize either character instantly, there are assembled in the front of the assembling elevator two thin duplex rails. These rails are operated by small levers, which permit the operator to assemble the matrices on the upper or lower rail, or mix the line, part upper and part lower. Rails are carried throughout the entire delivery mechanism to hold the matrices at the proper level until after the cast is made.
The rails are assembled on the levers and are held to position by a bar which is fastened to the elevator. A liner on each end, under the bar, gives room for the rails to move without binding. Under the rails are small spiral springs which force the rails up against the bar to keep them from moving too freely when a line is being assembled.
The long rail has a projection out from the base that holds the line of matrices as it transfers from the elevator to the delivery channel. This projection must fit into a groove in the elevator. If this point becomes bent it will not permit the rail to fit, causing bad assembling when in the regular position. There is a small operating finger screwed to the long rail that comes in contact with the aligning piece fastened to the delivery channel front rail. This is for the purpose of aligning the upper rails on the assembling elevator with the upper delivery channel rails when the line is in the auxiliary position. If the operating finger does not come in contact with the aligning piece and raise it, matrices in auxiliary, or raised position, will not pass into the delivery channel.
To operate the duplex rails, determine in which position the matrices should be assembled, and press in or pull out on the small levers, as desired. The right-hand lever controls the first half-inch of the duplex rail, throwing it in or out. If the rail is in, the matrices are all assembled on the raised or auxiliary position. If the rail is out, the matrices are all assembled on the bottom or regular position.
The left-hand or the long rail fills out the balance of space in the elevator. It is also connected with a small lever, and operates the same as the short rail. The rails can be moved in or out as needed for a line in the regular or auxiliary position, or for a line partly in the regular and partly in the auxiliary position.
On the back of the assembling elevator at the right, resting on an adjusting screw, is the line delivery slide releasing wire pin. This pin should release the line delivery slide just as the assembling latch catches when the elevator is raised.
The releasing pin raises the releasing plunger, which in turn raises the delivery pawl, releasing the slide. This carries the assembled line through the delivery channel. The pin should not release the slide until the latch, which is found on the back of the assembling elevator, catches on the stop bar. The latch, which is held in place by a shoulder screw and operated by a spring, holds the elevator in raised position until the slide has carried the assembled line into the delivery channel. The latch is then released by the slide as it passes to the left, allowing the elevator to drop of its own weight to the position to receive another line.
If the pin is adjusted so that it will release the pawl before the latch catches, the delivery slide will start to carry the line towards the delivery channel before the latch can hold and part of the line will fall out, because the elevator drops as soon as released. If the pin is adjusted so it will not release the pawl, the delivery slide will not start.
The pin should be adjusted so it will release the delivery pawl at the same time the latch catches on the stop bar. This adjustment is made by raising the elevator to its highest position and with a narrow screw-driver, adjust to the proper height by turning the adjusting screw on which the pins rest.
There is a counterbalance spring attached to the assembling elevator, underneath the keyboard frame.
To Take Off Assembling Elevator
Remove the two screws which hold the delivery channel; pull it off the dowel pins. Release the assembling elevator lever, take out the four screws which hold the left-hand gib, pull the gib off the dowel pins, and remove the elevator. On the machine that has the universal ejector, care must be used not to bend the indicator rod when removing the delivery channel.
ASSEMBLER
As the matrices descend into the assembling elevator they pass between the chute spring and the assembler chute rails. The chute spring is bent and adjusted to break the fall of the matrix and tend to throw the bottom of the matrix towards the star wheel. The points of the chute spring should be slightly inclined so they will not interfere with the top of the matrix striking beneath the points of the spring, retarding the matrix long enough for the spaceband to transpose. There must be room enough between these points for the spaceband to pass through without binding as it drops from the spaceband chute into the assembling elevator.
The chute spring must be adjusted so it will allow the heaviest matrix in the font, such as the cap “W,” to slip through between it and the rails of the assembler without hesitating. This adjustment is approximate; it is sometimes necessary to change it. Adjust by bending above the banking piece with duck bill pliers. The spring should also be flexible and as low as permitted by the banking piece which is riveted on the side, and resting on the assembler plate. Be careful not to change the shape of the lower part of the spring.
The later style chute spring is a great improvement over the old style. The length of the spring from the pivoting point to the toe assures smoothness in assembling, and can be instantly adjusted for thin or thick matrices.
On this style chute spring the adjustment is made by turning a conical thumbscrew which raises or lowers the spring.
The matrix catch spring is fastened to the rear of the assembler plate and projects through a slot in the plate 1/32 of an inch. The purpose of this spring is to retard the matrix a trifle before it passes onto the star wheel. The catch spring should be adjusted so it does not project more than 1/32 of an inch from the plate. It must also be in the center of the slot. If it projects more than the distance mentioned it may cause transpositions.
The star wheel is driven by a friction disk and pinion. The pinion slips over a small circular brass disk that is screwed onto the star wheel shaft. To hold the pinion on and to cause the friction to drive the disk, there is a spring which is held against the pinion by a nut that screws on the shaft. The spring must be just strong enough to force the assembler slide over when assembling a line, but to allow the star wheel to stop if anything binds it.
If the brass disk wears or becomes oily, or the friction spring becomes weak, a slight resistance to the star wheel will stop it and the matrices will clog in the assembler. If the friction is too strong, the star wheel will not stop when too many matrices are dropped into the assembler. This will cause damage to the matrices or the machine.
If these parts need renewing or cleaning, it will be necessary to remove the assembler plate from the machine. This can be accomplished by removing the two screws in the assembler plate, removing the chute spring, if the new style, releasing the matrix delivery belt from the pulley at the top, slipping the assembler driving belt off the pulley, and lifting the plate off the dowel pins.
By unscrewing the stud nut, the spring and the pinion can be lifted off and the disk unscrewed and cleaned or renewed.
The star wheel should force the matrices inside the retaining pawls in the assembling elevator. When it becomes worn to the extent that it will not force the matrices inside the retaining pawls, it should be replaced with a new one.
When renewing a star wheel it is only necessary to remove the small assembler cover, raise the assembling elevator, remove the screw which holds the two chute plates and rails on the dowel pins, and remove the chute plates. The old star can be withdrawn and a new one fitted.
Use a square file to dress out the hole on the new star, but do not have it fitted too loosely. Use care that the star does not bind anywhere.
The assembler chute rails, front and back, are soldered to the plates, and should be kept tightly fastened at all times. They should be close to, but not dig into, the delivery belt.
The small assembler cover must be adjusted so the matrices do not strike the upper edge while passing to the assembler, as this batters the lugs and will cause them to stick in the channels. It should also be adjusted so the lower left-hand side sets close to the assembling elevator, to prevent matrices or spacebands from getting between the cover and the assembling elevator.
ASSEMBLER SLIDE
The assembler slide guides the matrices as they are forced into the assembling elevator by the star wheel. This slide is prevented from vibrating by the assembler slide brake.
On the right end of the slide is the gauge and clamp for setting it to the required measure. The gauge is marked in ems and half-ems. By merely changing the clamp the slide can be adjusted to any measure desired.
On top of the clamp is an adjusting screw for the purpose of keeping the slide properly adjusted. The proper measurement of the slide is determined by inserting a gauge or slug of any known length between the assembler slide finger and the star wheel. The star wheel, being of fiber composition, wears down, which in time will allow enough matrices to be assembled in the assembler to cause a tight line in the vise jaws. By using the adjusting screw the slide can be kept at proper adjustment. The screw should be turned towards the assembler slide bracket pawl until the gauge stops the star wheel. This is a very important adjustment, as tight lines should not be tolerated on any machine. Tight lines not only ruin the matrices, but they often cause much damage to the machine. They also cause much distributor and escapement trouble on account of the damage done to the matrices.
ASSEMBLER SLIDE BRAKE
The assembler slide brake is at the right of the assembler, held to the face plate by a screw, and operated by the assembler slide brake operating lever, spring, and a trip. The purpose of the brake is to prevent the slide from having an unsteady movement when the line is being assembled, so that the last matrix in the elevator will be upright against the star wheel. The brake should hold the assembler slide from returning to normal until released by the operating lever. When the assembling elevator is in normal position it is resting on the top of the assembler slide brake operating lever near the left end, which raises the right, putting the brake in action.
When the assembling elevator is being raised, the lug on the lower right side raises the left end of the operating lever, lowering the right against the adjusting screw in the brake trip which releases the brake, and allows the slide to return to its normal position.
When it is necessary to adjust the brake it can be adjusted with the screw in the inner end of the operating lever on the older models, and with the screw in the brake trip on the newer, by raising the assembling elevator slowly with the left hand and adjusting with the right so the slide will return just before the line delivery slide is released. There should be about 1/64 of an inch between the end of the screw on the operating lever, or the trip, and the brake lever when this adjustment is properly made.
There are facing blocks at the point of friction on the assembler slide brake. When these blocks become worn, they may be reversed, bringing another corner to the point of friction.
The left end of the operating lever, when raised, should remain so until the assembling elevator has returned to its proper position. If it does not, when using a long line the instant the elevator starts to descend, the right end of the operating lever raising would allow the brake to go into action, and cause the assembler slide to stop before it has returned to its proper position.
On the back of the operating lever is a friction spring which should overcome the tension of the brake spring, so as to have the left end of the operating lever remain in raised position until returned by the assembling elevator as it returns to normal.
The assembler slide is returned to normal by a long coil spring, as soon as the brake is released. Do not change the tension of this spring if the slide fails to return. The cause of the trouble usually will be found elsewhere.
MATRIX CARRIER BELT
This belt moves the matrices to the assembling elevator and must be kept fairly tight. It is adjusted by loosening the nut and stud which hold the upper pulley and which fit into a slotted hole; then move the pulley to the desired position and tighten the nut. If the belt is still loose when the stud is against the outer end of the slot a new belt should be applied. Procure a new belt from the machine manufacturer and be sure to specify the model and the number of the machine, because the belts are of different lengths for the various models.
There are always particles of dirt and grease that form a gum which adheres to the pulleys and slideways along which the belt moves. These parts should be kept clean and free of this gum.
CAUSES OF BAD ASSEMBLING
The main sources of trouble of the assembling are transpositions and matrices jumping out of the assembler. The causes of these troubles are numerous. In the assembling elevator it may be caused by worn buffer strips, detaining pawls not working properly, or worn detaining plates. On the assembler plate trouble may be caused by a worn star wheel, dirty star wheel friction, chute spring out of adjustment, matrix catch spring out of adjustment, chute rails loose from the plates; assembler slide brake out of adjustment, permitting the slide to vibrate; brake catching too soon, not allowing the slide to return all the way back; loose screw in assembler slide operating brake, causing the slide to bind; or assembler slide worn or dirty, which will not allow the brake to operate properly.
These are some of the principal causes of trouble, but due to wear or the care the machine has had, there may be numerous other causes.
THE SPACEBANDS
Spacing and justification are accomplished on the linotype by means of the spacebands, which are held in the spaceband box above the assembling elevator, into which they drop when the spacebar is touched.
Spacebands are made in two pieces, a long wedge and a sleeve, put together in such a manner that they slide freely the one upon the other, but with the outer surfaces always remaining parallel. The spaceband is thicker at the bottom than at the top, forming a wedge which is automatically driven upward between the matrices, thus increasing the space between the words, spreading the line to fill the measure, and holding it air-tight during the cast.
The sleeve of the spaceband should be turned to the right. Because the casting edge of the spacebands is made thicker than the opposite edge, spacebands must not be reversed in a line, nor two put together; neither should a spaceband be put on the end of a line.
After the cast the matrices and spacebands are carried to the transfer point where the matrices are transferred from the first elevator to the bar of the second elevator, while the spacebands, not having combination teeth like the matrices, are left in the channel and are returned to the spaceband box by the spaceband pawl.
The deep cut in the bottom of the spaceband straddles the spaceband buffer finger which guides it in its travel through the assembling elevator and lessens the possibility of turning or twisting. The small pin at the bottom of the spaceband prevents it from falling apart.
The bottom of the spaceband is beveled so that it will strike the matrix a glancing, but harmless, blow as it enters the line.
Spacebands which are generally accepted as regular are termed “thick” by the factory. They are also made in other sizes known as “thin,” used with very small faces of type; and “extra thick,” for the larger faces or where very wide spacing is desired.
Watch matrices and spacebands carefully, and immediately remove any damaged, bent, or imperfect ones. A damaged matrix or spaceband will damage others, and the whole font may go to ruin within a short time unless the proper attention is given.
Once in each eight hours of operation, the spacebands must be taken from the machine and polished with graphite on a soft pine board. Lay the spaceband flat on its face and rub it briskly backward and forward the long way of the band. Do not rub in a circling movement, as it tends to round the edges. Metal will then cast between the spaceband and the matrix and show in print. The purpose of cleaning is to remove the discoloration or metal adhering at the casting point, and to lubricate the sliding parts. If metal is allowed to accumulate on the spacebands, it will crush the side walls of the matrices when locked up. Use dry graphite in polishing the spacebands. Never handle them with dirty or greasy hands, as the dirt and grease will be transferred to the matrices. If the metal does not rub off, scrape it with a piece of brass rule.
SPACEBAND BOX
The spaceband box is fastened to the face plate by means of a screw and dowel pins.
The spacebands slide down through the box, suspended by their lugs, on two inclined rails. The lower spaceband rests against a raised projection or hook on the inclined rail. The bottom end of the spaceband rests against the chute plate. Escapement of the spaceband is effected by two pawls which lift the spacebands over the rails, allowing them to drop into the assembling elevator.
The pawls are located in the right-hand side of the spaceband box, front and back. These pawls are connected to the pawl levers by the spaceband pawl lifting screws, and held in place by the rails and pawl springs. When the pawls are at their lowest position, they are forced under the ears of the spaceband by the pawl springs.
The pawls get their motion in the following manner: When the spaceband key is touched the cam is released and turns the same as the regular keyboard cams. This raises the spaceband keyrod against the tension of the spring at the bottom of the keyrod. The keyrod raises the right-hand end of the spaceband keylever. This lowers the left-hand end of the keylever, on which the box lever rests. This permits the pawls and levers to drop of their own weight. When the keyrod cam returns to normal, the spring on the keyrod pulls the keyrod and the keylever to normal, thus raising the pawls and levers by spring action.
The movement of the pawls is controlled by the screw in the back pawl lever which rests on the spaceband keylever. When the pawls are at their lowest position, the bottom of the slot in the adjusting screw is resting on the keylever. They must go 1/32 an inch below the inclined rails on their full down stroke. To make this adjustment, disconnect the keyboard belt from the pulley, touch the spaceband key, turn the rollers by hand until the pawl levers are in their lowest position, disconnect the keylever from the adjusting screw and turn the screw.
The chute plate, against which the lower right side of the spaceband rests while suspended in the spaceband box, must be low enough so that when raised by the pawls, the bottom of the spaceband will be released before the top; if not, they will catch and hang in the box. Whenever it is necessary to make this adjustment it can be accomplished by bending the chute plate a trifle.
When the first spaceband is being raised by the pawls, the weight of the other being against it would cause the next one to raise by friction unless it were prevented. This is prevented by the center bar which is fastened to a bracket at the top of the box. The distance from the vertical stop on the box rails to the pins on the center bar should be just enough for one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the second band from raising. By loosening the screw in the bracket and moving the bar, adjust so that the distance from the vertical stop on the rails to the pins is just enough to permit one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the second one. As there are three kinds of spacebands in use—thin, thick, and extra thick—the above adjustment can only be made so as to use one thickness at a time.
The two chute rails at the bottom of the chute guide the spacebands into the assembling elevator. The spacebands will have a tendency to catch on the assembling elevator rails, and not settle down in the assembler, if the rails are worn. There should be just room enough between the rails for a spaceband to slide without binding.
TO REMOVE SPACEBAND BOX
Push in controlling lever. Take hold of cam No. 1 and back the cams until the second elevator descends to its safety latch. Hold the spaceband transfer lever with the right hand and press downward with left hand on the releasing lever in the first elevator top guide. Allow the spaceband transfer lever to move over into the intermediate channel. Push the spacebands back into the channel. Remove the screw on the right-hand side of the electric light bracket and move the bracket to clear the box. Remove the large screw in the center of the box and lift the box off the dowel pins.
In replacing the spaceband box, be careful not to spring the lower end of the spaceband chute. Also be careful not to bend the ends of the inclined rails.
SPACEBAND TROUBLES
Transposition troubles of the spacebands may be caused by any of the following: Worn keyboard cam roll, keyboard cam sluggish, loose keyboard driving belt, keyrod spring weak, tongue at the bottom of spaceband chute bent too far, worn star wheel, pawl levers loose on the shaft, caused by taper pins not being tight; dirty spaceband box pawls, pawl levers not adjusted properly, worn pawls and rails, chute spring out of adjustment, chute rails worn; also on the cam frames with the spring bar, a weak keyboard cam yoke spring.
Some of the causes for the spacebands not dropping are: Worn rails or pawls, lifting screw holes in pawls worn, bent spacebands, bent ears on spacebands, center bar out of adjustment, keyrod spring weak or off, dirty spaceband box pawls, weak pawl springs, worn rubber roll, free end of keyboard cam yoke gummy, pawl lever loose. On the cam frames with the spring bar, the cam yoke spring too tight; bent hinge rod on cam yoke or trigger dirty, or anything else that would prevent the free movement of the pawls.
Spacebands travel through the machine suspended by their lugs. Constant use causes the under side of the lug to wear, and when spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed together with new spacebands, difficulty frequently arises and they occasionally clog in the chute when released by touching the spacebar. The only remedy is to send the offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired.
Spaceband Box Pawls and Rails
If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be taken out in the following manner: Remove the spaceband box from the machine, release the tension of the pawl springs by unscrewing the small screw that holds the spring, then take out the pawl screw and lift the pawl out of the box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones, select two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two pawls. The points should be the same distance from the pivot holes. If the old pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, so that they will not get mixed; for after they have been used, they should be kept in their regular place. Measure the pawls for height and also examine them to see if the points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they are the same height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being careful to maintain the same bevel.
To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and at the points. If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be cleaned by rubbing them on crocus cloth and polishing with graphite.
If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new ones, the box must be taken apart. Remove the box from the machine. Remove the chute plate. Drive out the taper pin which holds the pawl levers to the lever shaft, and take off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew the two large screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the center bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove the old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the dowel pins, using care to have the vertical face of the rails even. It is always best to renew the pawls at the same time new rails are put on.
To Replace Spaceband Box Pawls
To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw which holds the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the lifting pawl screw, place pawl in the box, screw up on the lifting screw, being careful to guide the screw into the hole on the pawl. Place the spring in the pawl slot before the pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten the spring screw, which holds the spring against the pawl, until the screw is tight.
The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide firmly. Try the pawl to see if the spring has the proper tension and that the pawl is not bent so it does not work freely.
LINE DELIVERY SLIDE
The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in a slideway, a long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and adjusting clamp. The slide is connected by a lever link, lever, shaft, and split cam lever, to a roller which operates against the surface of cam No. 10.
The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a strong coil spring in the column of the machine which is connected to a lug on the shaft. The slide is returned to normal by cam action, the roller being held against and following the surface of cam No. 10.
When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is prevented from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the delivery pawl, which is under the spaceband box, held to the face by a screw, and operated by a spring.
This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as a safety to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case it is not returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl to pass the catch.
When the slide has returned to normal position, the short finger should go not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the end of the pawl. If the finger returns more than this distance, the short finger will be forced against the spaceband box chute and cause it to spring, and very likely cause delay in dropping of the spacebands.
The return adjustment is made by moving the split cam lever in or out. First remove the spaceband box so as to have a clear view of the pawl and finger. Then turn the main cams by hand until just before the high part of cam No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller. Place the short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position. Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the screws in the split cam lever. This should cause the short finger on the slide to be returned not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the pawl.
This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear on the connecting parts of the slide on machines which have been in use for some time. The adjustment is made on the older model machines, which do not have the split cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide lever.
Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two spring pawls which prevent the matrices from falling out while the line is going to casting position. The short finger should stop 13/32 of an inch inside of the first elevator. The last matrix on the right-hand end of the line will then be inside the two pawls. This adjustment is made by the screw in the slideway on the left end of the face plate, against which the slide comes to a stop.
When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in the slideway, the casting mechanism will be set in action. It is started by the roller on the split cam lever, which comes in contact with the automatic stopping pawl on cam No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping lever, and the machine goes into action. It should not start before the line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the line would not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. The plate, which is held to the automatic stopping pawl by a screw on the lower end, is adjustable. Loosening the lower and turning the upper screw to the left will move the plate closer to the split lever or roller and the machine will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the right, the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than 1/64 of an inch.
The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as a support for the right end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the first elevator jaws. There is a small extension at the top of the short finger which engages the delivery pawl and holds the slide in normal position until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a line. The short finger is not adjustable.
The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is the support for the left end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted by means of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust this finger when the measure is changed. The long finger must be kept straight so it hangs vertically on the machine. If bent either forward or backward it will wear the assembling elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it may interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby binding the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full lines of matrices as they are being raised by the assembling elevator and cause the slide to travel slowly.
The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which the slide travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and is connected to the split cam lever by means of a link. This link is also connected to the delivery air cushion piston, which operates in the air cylinder. As the slide moves over to the left this piston is forced upward into the cylinder. The speed is regulated by an air vent and cover at the top of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air to escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the left faster. The slide should not go over with too much force or it will have a tendency to loosen the screws in the delivery slide.
The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery slide and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in a depression in the delivery lever and is held by a small plate and two screws. The other end of the lever has a notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the left of the rear side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this screw by means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on the screw except when there is an undue strain on the delivery slide caused by something interfering with the free return of the slide. When the strain becomes too great, the spring permits the link to slip off the shoulder screw, disconnecting the slide from the lever to prevent breakage. To connect the link it is only necessary to relieve the strain on the delivery slide and push the link and the shoulder screw together.
The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to prevent undue wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite will give more uniform action than oil on the slideway. If oil has been used on the slideway, it should be thoroughly cleaned before using graphite.
METAL POT
The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. The jacket is the outside casting. The crucible fits into the jacket, allowing space between the crucible and jacket for asbestos packing. The crucible is held in place in the jacket by three lugs, which keep it stationary in the jacket. All the space between the crucible and jacket is packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been mixed with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation is for the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible.
It is very important that every pot should be well insulated or packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can not hold the heat. The result being poor slugs, and the consequent use of more gas than is necessary. If the machine takes an excessive gas flame to keep the metal in working condition, look for poor insulation.
The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it is forced through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have sufficient metal under the plunger to form a perfect slug when a cast is made. For that reason two holes are drilled in the well, one on each side, which allows the metal to enter the well. If the holes become closed, which they sometimes do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the slug will be hollow. They should be kept open, using the end of the mouthpiece wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal.
Metal Pot Plunger
The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, through the throat of the crucible, into the mold cell, and up against the line of matrices aligned in front of the mold.
When the machine is in normal position, the plunger should be high enough in the well to permit the metal to run into the well through the holes in the sides. If the plunger does not set above the holes, the metal can not flow into the well and throat, so when the line is cast the slug will appear porous or spongy and of light weight.
If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape around the sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving a poor slug. To remedy this trouble it is sometimes necessary to put in a new plunger a trifle oversize (.005), and fit it to the well.
A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal to be ejected before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on the back of the mold, prevent a lockup, so the metal will flow out over the back of the disk when the plunger acts. A dirty plunger will often cause a slug to have the appearance of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well of the pot clean.
Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, but the Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps all the dust confined in the box. There are several kinds of brushes and scrapers manufactured for use in cleaning the well. Use whatever method desired, but be sure it keeps the well clean.
If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the well, be sure to turn it always to the right, otherwise the bristles may break off and stay in the well.
If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise the temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod and twist it carefully. Do not use too much force or the rod may be broken. If a plunger sticks so that it can not be removed by the above method, dip enough metal out of the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil between the plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece of tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. Do not pry up on the plunger for there is danger of breaking the rod.
When the plunger forces the metal through the throat of the crucible, there will be nothing to retard the flow of metal against the face of the matrices if the throat of the crucible is clean. However, if the throat should be stopped up with dross or dirt, retarding the flow of metal, the face of the slug would be glassy, and have the appearance of cold metal.
Cleaning the Throat of Crucible
To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes necessary to remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the throat, using a throat scraper to cut away the accumulation of dirt and dross.
The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended for the purpose. Care must be used to get the throat clean. Hold a receptacle that does not leak up in front of the crucible mouth and force the plunger down by hand. This will flush the throat of any floating particles of dross.
Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil will open up the throat, by being used in the following manner: Dip the metal out of the pot to about an inch below the top of the well, remove the plunger, pour the melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil into the well and replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After casting about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal, recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect of the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into such fine particles, that whatever has accumulated in the throat will be forced out through the holes in the mouthpiece. This will cause considerable smoke in the room unless you have a ventilating system. Be sure to clean your vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece for this operation so consequently considerable time can be saved. But if the throat is very dirty, this method will not work satisfactorily.
Cracked Crucible
Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat when the gas is first lighted. When the gas is turned on full at first, the metal in the bottom of the pot is melted before the metal in the upper part gets very hot. This metal in the bottom expands and powerful pressure is exerted on the walls of the well and lower part of the crucible. To eliminate this danger the gas should be turned on about half force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes warm and expanded, after which the gas may be turned on full force.
Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt the metal and have it ready for use. The small cracks which are made in the bottom of the crucible when first heating the pot will usually be closed by the heat of the burner after the pressure is released.
To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as possible, turn out the fire, remove the four pot jacket cover screws, take off the cover, dig out part of the old asbestos, release the screw that clamps the left-hand crucible lug to the jacket, lift out the crucible, clean all of the old asbestos out of the inside of the jacket.
To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined with the asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except in the front part where the burners are located. Place the crucible in position. Care should be taken to see that it fits firmly in its proper position. Pack the asbestos around the crucible, tamping it down with a stick, and filling in all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with a rag while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket cover in position, and fasten it down firmly with the four pot jacket screws, which extend down through the cover, into the pot jacket.
Mouthpieces
One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is the mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines contains thirty holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the slug, through which the metal flows into the mold cell to form a slug.
At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces in general use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or wedge to fasten it in the slot of the crucible to make a tight fit; and the screw mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible by means of screws.
On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward between each of the holes. There is also a vent which is cut from the first hole on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. The cross vents allow the air to escape from the mold cell as the metal is forced in. These vents play a very important part in the casting of good slugs. If the vents are stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, making a light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near the face of the type, allow the letters to be crushed in when put under pressure on the press. Also, the entire slug may be forced down, causing much delay in printing.
Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece so they do not extend very far above the top of the holes in the mouthpiece and that they are not too deep. They should be deep in the center and come to a very fine edge at the ends. All that is needed is to get the air out of the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished by cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened properly there should be a sprue of metal below the vents on the back of the mold about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after the slug is cast.
A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, causing an unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor and about the machine, and sometimes causing machine troubles.
It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in a mouthpiece. If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, and the mouthpiece is kept at the proper temperature, the metal will usually flow freely through the holes. However, if it is found necessary to drill out the holes, never use larger than a 1/16 inch or No. 51 drill, which will not make the holes larger than their original size. When using the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each hole is drilled, to prevent the drill from becoming too hot and breaking off in the hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece holes will work satisfactorily on large faces 8-point or above; but when the smaller faces are used the product will not have a clear-cut face.
To Remove a Mouthpiece
When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning out the throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face of the crucible to align with the first hole on the right end of the mouthpiece. When replacing the mouthpiece the line will be your guide. By so adjusting there will be a full hole on each end of the slug when casting the different lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the liner in the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the first hole should be covered by the constant liner, the first letter on the right end of the slug would be blurred, or would not cast sharply, because the metal cools quickly on the ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is necessary.
The mouthpiece should always be removed when the metal is hot. If removed when cold there would be danger of breaking the pot crucible.
When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the vise in second position, lift out the mold slide, place a block of wood between the right side of the pot jacket and the slideway, drive the mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using a piece of brass as a drift. The above operation is necessary to loosen the wedge. The instant the mouthpiece moves, the wedge will become loose and can be lifted out.