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THE EXPERT WAITRESS

A MANUAL FOR THE
PANTRY, KITCHEN, AND DINING-ROOM

BY

ANNE FRANCES SPRINGSTEED

NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS

Copyright, 1894, by Harper & Brothers.

All rights reserved.

TO

THE COLUMBIA CLUB

OF

WORKING GIRLS

THIS LITTLE BOOK

Is Dedicated by

THE AUTHOR

PREFACE

The papers entitled “The Expert Waitress” are intended rather as a working model than as a set of rules from which there is no appeal. It is recognized that tastes and opinions vary as much as do the various dining-rooms in which they are expressed. In writing these papers, one idea has been kept in mind: No rule has been laid down that has not a good reason for its existence.

Some things, desirable in themselves, have been omitted because they are not possible to one pair of hands and feet, even when guided by a well-regulated brain.

CONTENTS

Breakfast

Oranges.
Pearled Oats with Cream.
Lamb Chops.   Creamed Potatoes.
Bread.   Hot Muffins.
Butter.
Coffee.   Milk.
Cream or Hot Milk.

The breakfast given is a usual one in many households. Learn to serve this properly, and it will be easy to make changes where ideas vary as to comfort and convenience.

To serve the breakfast given there will be needed: Napkins, tumblers, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, butter plate and knife, bread-and-butter plates, bread plate, bread knife, bread board, muffin dish, water pitcher, milk pitcher, trays.

The dish of fruit is to stand in the centre of the table. Place a salt cup, with its spoon, and a pepper box for the use of every two people. Put for each person a fruit plate, on which is a fruit doily, and a finger bowl one third full of water. On the plate at the right of the bowl lay a silver fruit knife, on the left of the plate a fruit spoon. At the right of each plate place a tumbler for water and another for milk. At the left put a little plate for bread, butter, and hot muffins. On the

table, at the right of the plates, lay a breakfast knife, with the sharp edge of the blade turned towards the plate, a silver knife for butter, and a dessertspoon, with bowl turned up. At the left lay a breakfast fork, with the tines turned up, and a napkin.

If the polished table, without a cloth, is preferred for breakfast, it will be necessary to take thought about hot dishes, none of which must come in direct contact with the table. Either they must be served from a side-table, or the polished table must be in some way protected. Table mats have been discarded by many ladies because they are so often merely useful without being ornamental.

Among the handsomest things with which to replace table mats are hand-painted trays, set in rims of split bamboo. The rim protects the table, and prevents the platter from sliding. These should be handled with great care, on account of their value. With one of these trays at the foot of the table, the fruit in the centre, and the coffee service at the

head, all has a finished appearance when breakfast is served.

With the placing of the coffee service at the head of the table the difficulty of heat again presents itself, and this time cannot be obviated by the side-table. The hot-water kettle is taken care of by its own lamp-stand; but the coffee-pot and hot-milk jug still remain. These must be provided for according to their character. If of silver, they should rest on silver stands; if of china, then on china stands; the purpose being to make the stand appear like a part of that which rests upon it, and so be as unnoticeable as possible.

The expert waitress will arrange her sideboard and side-table with as much care as she does the table itself. These two accessories should hold everything that may, can, or shall be needed. The sideboard may be left uncovered if the table is uncovered. If the table is draped, a suitable cloth must be laid on the sideboard. A side-table should always be draped. Use this for hot dishes without

stands. The sideboard should hold in readiness extra plates, knives, forks, spoons, tumblers and napkins, fine sugar for the pearled oats, a pitcher of water, and a pitcher of milk.

On the side-table should be plenty of space for whatever hot dishes are to be placed upon it, including the muffin dish, a silver tray for placing and removing everything that is not soiled; another tray, either of silver or carved wood, for removing that which is soiled, a small napkin for taking up quickly anything that may be spilled, and a large napkin or neat towel to be used in an emergency, such as the accidental overturning of a glass of milk or a cup of coffee.

When she thinks that all is ready, the waitress should ask and answer every one of these questions:

Does the table need anything more?

Is the sideboard perfectly arranged?

Is there plenty of room on the side-table?

Are the chairs properly placed?

Are the morning papers where they should be?

Are any doors unnecessarily open?

Is there a drawer that is not tightly closed?

Has any dust been overlooked in the dining-room?

Two minutes before the breakfast hour begin to fill the glasses with water. This will be finished in time, and the water will be cool and fresh.

As to the time of placing butter upon the table, a waitress must be guided by her judgment. In winter, when butter is very hard, it may be put on sooner than in summer, when it should be kept cool until needed.

Bread must be always freshly cut.

When the family are seated at the table, place the fruit dish on a tray and hand it to the lady of the house, standing at her left side. Offer to each person, always at the left.

When the fruit has been served, see if any one has emptied his glass of water. Never, under any circumstances, let any one ask for

a glass of water. Fill it before he can ask. If carafes are used, and each one fills his own glass, after it has been once emptied, then keep watch of ice, and offer when it is needed.

When the fruit course is finished, remove everything pertaining to it. Take first the fruit dish, then, in each hand, a plate with its finger-bowl, knife, and spoon, and place quietly and quickly in the pantry until all are removed. If a knife, only, has been used, do not leave the fruit spoon because it is clean, but take it away with the other things. If any fruit juice has, by chance, found its way to the polished table, take it up so deftly with a small napkin that no one is aware of it.

When the fruit is removed, bring the dish of pearled oats and place on the tray at the foot of the table. Lay a tablespoon at the right of the dish. Place before each person a cereal dish on a plate. Remove the cover of the pearled oats to the side-table. Place the dish on the tray, put the spoon in the dish, and offer first to the lady of the house, standing

at her left. Offer to each person from the left. Then pass the sugar and cream.

When the cereal course is finished, take the cereal dish, with its tray, and place it on the side-table. Cover the dish. Take in each hand a cereal dish and plate, until all are removed to the pantry.

For the meat course see that the plates are warm, but not hot enough to mar the polish of the table. Where a cloth is used they may be hotter. Place a tray for the hot platter at the foot of the table, and stand the platter of chops on it. Lay a small carving-knife and tablespoon at the right of the platter, and a small carving-fork at its left. Place a pile of warmed plates in front of the platter.

When a chop has been served, take the plate in the right hand, place it on the tray, and take it to the lady of the house. Serve, first, all on one side of the table, then all on the other side. There is no choice in this service, for the carver asks each one if he may serve them. Go to the right of the person

served and place the plate, instead of having it taken from the tray at the left.

Take the potato dish from the side-table, uncover and place on the tray; put a tablespoon in the dish and pass. Serve each person from the left.

Place a platter of plain bread on the table, and then pass the hot muffins. If any one does not care for hot bread he may decline, because he knows that the cold bread is at hand.

Pass the butter and the bread.

Watch the water tumblers and fill when empty. Offer milk.

When the lady of the house begins to pour the coffee, take a cup as it is filled and move quickly to the right of the person for whom it is intended. Set the cup down. There is no choice about this. Each cup is made to suit the individual taste of the one to whom it is sent.

When the coffee is served, look about to see what may be needed at any part of the table.

Do not offer milk to one whose glass is still filled, or muffins to one who has an untouched muffin on his plate. Do not leave the breakfast-room until quite sure that everything that there is to do has been finished.

The breakfast described is served to a family of regular people, all of whom sit down at the same time, and it does not take any great amount of “mother wit” to serve it properly.

What really tests the skill of a waitress is to serve a breakfast in the manner necessary in many families.

There is a regular breakfast hour at which three or four of the family are prompt; but one of the gentlemen, perhaps, has to breakfast an hour earlier in order to get to business in time, while others, whose studies or pleasures keep them late at night, come afterwards.

To make every one comfortable is not easy, but it is quite possible. There must be no hurry; that is, no appearance of haste; but a waitress must move quickly to accomplish what is needed. If the butler’s pantry has a

gas stove, her task will be much simplified. The mistress of a household who breakfast in this manner will be glad to furnish her pantry with every convenience necessary for the comfort of her family. There will be coffee-pots of the sizes needed, a jar of freshly ground coffee, and a kettle the right size for the gas stove, so as to have freshly boiled water whenever it is needed. A waitress who is disposed to make the most of these conveniences can save both herself and others great annoyance.

If coffee is made only in the kitchen, then the side-table will have the proper appliances for keeping coffee and milk at the required temperature. A lamp under a coffee urn soon destroys the flavor of fine coffee, but a lamp under a hot-water tray will do no harm. If this tray is a simple flat one, it will be of little use. It must be one with rings of metal, one or more of which may be removed at a time, according to the size of the coffee-pot or milk jug which is to be surrounded by the

heat. These simple trays are made of planished tin. In the hands of an ignorant maid they are utterly useless. In careful hands they are a great aid and comfort in the breakfast-room.

A breakfast served in this way gives the following rules:

I—A dining-room must be in perfect order before breakfast is served.

II—A waitress is responsible for the heat of the dishes after they come from the kitchen. If too hot, she must cool them; if not hot enough, she must send them back.

III—Coffee and hot milk must be kept at the right temperature to preserve their best flavor.

IV—Water must be fresh and cool.

V—Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft and oily.

VI—Bread must be freshly cut.

VII—Glasses must be kept filled.

VIII—Nothing but an unexpected extra should ever be asked for.

IX—Everything must be passed at the left, placed at the right.

X—In clearing the table, food must be first removed; then soiled china, glass, silver, and cutlery; then clean china, glass, silver, and cutlery; then crumbs.

XI—Everything relating to one course must be removed before serving another course.

Luncheon

Panned Oysters.
Beefsteak.
Claret.   Apollinaris.
Spaghetti.   French Fried Potatoes.
Gherkins.
Bread.   Butter.
Fruit Tarts.
Cocoa.

Centre-piece of flowers, ferns, or confections, napkins, tumblers, claret glasses, bread-and-butter plates, butter plate and knife, bread plate, board and knife, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, ice pitcher, trays.

A dining-room, aired for a few minutes after breakfast, will be fresh for luncheon; but the thermometer should be consulted to see whether the mercury is too high or too low.

Dust your sideboard, and any other article of furniture that has lost its fresh look since breakfast.

Make the table the proper size, always allowing an extra place for a guest.

If the polished table is preferred, see that there is no spot on it and wipe with a soft cloth.

If a table-cloth is to be used, first lay the flannel cloth without crease or wrinkle; then lay the linen cloth perfectly smooth and even.

In the centre of the table place a vase of flowers, a pot of ferns, or a glass plate with crystallized ginger or bonbons.

At the foot of the table place a tray for the beefsteak platter, and lay the gravy spoon at the right of it.

At the head of the table place a stand for the cocoa pitcher, sugar bowl, with tongs, cups, saucers, and teaspoons.

If carafes are used, place one for the use of every two people, and a salt cup and pepper box for every two persons, unless the individual salts are preferred.

Place a small luncheon plate for each person. At the right lay a luncheon knife, with the sharp edge turned towards the plate, a knife for butter, a small soup spoon for oysters, a tumbler for water, another for Apollinaris, and a glass for claret. At the left lay a luncheon fork, with the tines turned up, a bread-and-butter plate, and a napkin.

Place your dessert plates, each with its fork, on the sideboard. On the sideboard have a

water pitcher, extra glasses, knives, forks, and spoons. Have on the sideboard, or at hand in the pantry, everything that may be asked for, as fine sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mixed mustard, and red and white pepper.

See that the right platter is being heated for the beefsteak, and be sure that the tray corresponds in size.

Fill the water pitcher, and have an extra pitcher of filtered water, or bowl of ice, in your pantry.

Cut the bread, and leave a loaf lying on the bread board in the pantry, with the bread knife by the side of it.

See that the oyster dishes are placed to heat in time to be very hot indeed.

See that the luncheon plates are warm, but not too hot to mar the polish of the table; if a cloth is used, they may be hotter.

Five or ten minutes before luncheon-time find out whether there is any reason why luncheon should not be served at the appointed hour. If the family are ready, bring the

butter and fill the glasses. Put a dish of oysters on each plate, see that every chair is properly placed, and announce that luncheon is served.

When all are seated, put the cracker plate on your tray and pass, going always to the left.

To remove the oyster course, take in each hand a plate, with its oyster dish and spoon, and carry to pantry, until all are removed.

Bring your vegetables to the side-table. Place the beefsteak platter on the tray before the carver, lay carving-knife at the right and carving-fork at the left of the platter, and put the warm luncheon plates in front of the carver.

When some beefsteak has been served, take the plate in your right hand and lift to your tray. Take to the lady of the house. Serve all on one side first, then all on the other side. Go to the right of the person served and put the plate down.

Place the potato dish on your tray, put a spoon in the dish, and pass. Go to the left

side, as the person served will use his right hand. Pass your spaghetti in the same manner. Offer gherkins.

Pass the bread.

Pass the butter.

Fill the glasses.

Offer claret and Apollinaris.

Never let anybody ask for anything which belongs to the regular luncheon. If demands are made upon the sideboard, supply them quietly and quickly. Pass the vegetables, bread, and butter whenever needed. Listen when beefsteak is offered, and be ready to hand the proper plate without being sent for it.

In removing this course, take a suitable tray and lay on it the carver, with its fork and the gravy spoon. Be careful to see that the edge of carver does not touch fork or spoon, and lay the carver and fork by themselves in the pantry. Next take out the beefsteak platter and tray, and then the vegetable dishes. Take the luncheon plates, one in each hand, until all are removed.

Take the bread-and-butter plates, butter and gherkin dishes. Take off the china tray, salt cups, pepper boxes, and any clean glass or silver that has not been used.

If from a polished table, remove the crumbs with a fringed napkin and crumb-tray or plate. If a cloth is used, with a silver crumb knife and tray or plate.

Place a dessert plate, with its fork, before each person.

Pass tarts, offering them at the left. Place cups of cocoa at the right.

Fill the glasses.

Pass the tarts a second time. If cups are empty, pass them to be filled without waiting to be told.

Remove tart plates, by taking one in each hand, to pantry, until all are removed.

Place a plate, with finger bowl, for each person, and pass bonbons.

A luncheon served in this way gives us the following rules:

I—A dining-room must be free from dust

and at a pleasant temperature; neither too warm nor too cold.

II—A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes before they are brought to the table.

III—A meal must never be announced until everything which is needed, or may be needed, is in readiness.

IV—Water must be fresh and cool.

V—Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft and oily.

VI—Bread must be freshly cut.

VII—Glasses must be kept filled.

VIII—Nothing but an unexpected extra should ever be asked for.

IX—Everything which admits of choice must be passed at the left. Everything which does not admit of choice must be placed at the right.

X—In clearing the table, food must be first removed, then soiled china, glass, silver, and cutlery, then crumbs.

XI—Everything relating only to one course must be removed before serving another course.

Dinner

Consommé.
Sherry.
Olives.   Salted Almonds.
Broiled Bass, Maître d’hôtel Sauce.
Claret.
Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce.
Green Pease.   Baked Tomatoes.
Potato Croquettes.
Lettuce Salad.
Crackers.   Cheese.
Neapolitan Pudding.
Coffee.

To serve this dinner you will need a heavy table-cloth, a linen table-cloth, carving-cloths, dinner napkins, flower bowl, candelabra, carafes, decanters, tumblers, sherry and claret glasses, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, bread plate, olive dishes, almond dishes, and spoons.

Make sure that the air of the dining-room is fresh, and the temperature agreeable.

If dust has gathered on polished surfaces since luncheon, wipe them lightly with a soft cloth.

See that your table is exactly in its right place, and not in the least askew. Lay the Canton-flannel cloth perfectly smooth. Lay the linen cloth flat and without a wrinkle. See that the coverings of the sideboard and side-table are fresh and straight.

Place the flowers in the centre of the table.

If candelabra are used, put one on each side of the flowers, on a line with them. If four candlesticks, place them in a square a little distance from the flowers.

Spread a carving-cloth at the head and one at the foot of the table. Be sure that they lie quite straight across it.

Place a carafe for the use of every two persons, and a salt cup and pepper box for every two persons.

Lay a dinner plate for each person. On the right of each plate lay a soup spoon, with the bowl turned up, a dinner knife with the sharp edge turned towards the plate, a fish knife (if fish knives are used), a tumbler for water, a glass for sherry, and a glass for claret.

At the left of each plate lay a fork for fish, and a larger one for the roast. Lay them in the order in which they are to be used, the fish fork being outside. At the left place also a napkin folded simply and holding a piece of dinner bread.

On the sideboard place the dessert plates, on each one of which is a doily under a finger bowl one-third full of water, and a dessert fork. Put on the sideboard astray with after-dinner cups, saucers, and spoons, a small bowl of lump sugar, and a small cream jug. Have on the sideboard, also, extra glasses, knives, forks, and spoons.

On the side-table place extra plates, the carvers with their forks, tablespoons, and sauce ladles. Leave room on the side-table for vegetable dishes and sauce boats.

Be sure that the salad bowl, olive dishes, and pudding dish are cool, the tureen, dishes, and plates being properly heated. When it is nearly time for dinner, place two olive dishes and two almond dishes, alternately,

just outside of the candelabra; place a decanter of sherry near the carver’s right, and a decanter of claret at the opposite corner of the table; fill the carafes, fill the tumblers, light the candles.

Place the soup tureen and some warm soup plates at the head of the table, lay the soup ladle at the right of the tureen, see that every chair is in its place, and announce that dinner is served.

When all are seated, uncover the soup tureen, put the cover on the side-table, and stand at the left of the hostess.

When a ladleful of soup is served, lift the soup plate with your right hand and place it on your tray. Take it to the person at the right of the hostess. Go to the right side. Place the soup plate on the cold dinner plate. Serve all on one side, then begin at the left of the hostess and serve all on the other side.

To remove the soup course, take first the tureen, then a soup plate in each hand, until all are removed. To remove soiled plates, go

to the right. Properly done, this way is more agreeable to those who sit at table than when plates are taken from the left.

Pour sherry. Be careful to pour each glass three-fourths full.

Place the platter of fish and warmed fish plates before the host. Lay the fish slice at the right of the platter and the fish fork at the left of the platter.

When a portion of fish has been served, lift the plate in your right hand and place on your tray. Go to the hostess first and exchange the cold plate for the fish plate. Serve all on one side, then begin at the left and serve all on the other side. Place the sauce boat on your tray and offer at the left, going all around the table.

To remove the fish course, take first the fish platter, then the plates, one in each hand, until all are removed.

Pour claret, and leave the decanter near the host. Pour each glass only three-quarters full.

If olives and almonds have not been served

by the persons at table to each other, serve olives first, then almonds.

Place the roast before the carver, and the hot plates. Lay the carving-knife and gravy spoon at the right of the platter, and the carving-fork at the left of the platter. Serve the roast in the same manner as the fish.

Put a spoon in the potato dish and place it on your serving tray. Offer at the left of each person. Return the potato dish to the side-table; serve the pease in the same manner, then tomatoes, and then mint sauce.

To remove this course, first lift the carver, the carving-fork, and gravy spoon to your tray and carry them to the pantry. Lay the carver and fork carefully by themselves. Remove the platter with the roast. Remove plates, one in each hand.

Remove the crumbs.

Place the salad fork and spoon in the salad bowl; put the bowl on your tray. Place it before the host, with the salad plates. Lay a fork and a knife quietly and quickly at each place.

When some salad is served, take to the hostess. Set the plate down from the right. Serve all on one side, then all on the other side.

Pass the crackers, then the cheese.

Remove the salad bowl, salad plates, olives, almonds, salt cups, pepper boxes, and wine-glasses.

Remove the crumbs.

Remove the carving-cloths.

Place a dessert plate, with its finger bowl and dessert fork, before each person. Place the pudding before the hostess. Lay the pudding slicer at the right of the pudding dish. Serve first the person at the right of the hostess. Serve all on one side, then begin at the left of the hostess and serve all on the other side.

Remove the pudding dish, plates, and finger bowls.

Place the coffee tray before the hostess, and bring the coffee-pot. When the coffee is poured, place a cup at the right of each person. Offer sugar and cream at the left.

If carafes are empty, fill them with fresh water.

Do not leave the dining-room until you are sure that you have finished all that there is to do.

A dinner served in this way gives us the following rules:

I—A dining-room must be free from dust and at a pleasant temperature.

II—Table-cloths must be laid without wrinkles and perfectly straight.

III—The sharp edge of knives must be turned towards the plate; bowls of spoons and tines of forks must be turned up.

IV—Carvers must be treated with as much respect as if they were razors.

V—A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes and plates before they are brought to the table.

VI—A meal must never be announced until everything is in readiness which is needed or may be needed.

VII—Bread must be freshly cut.

VIII—Everything which admits of choice must be passed at the left. Everything which does not admit of choice must be placed at the right.

IX—Soiled plates and dishes should be removed from the right.

X—In clearing the table, food must be first removed, then soiled china, glass, silver, and cutlery, then clean china, glass, silver, and cutlery, then crumbs, then carving-cloths.

XI—Everything relating only to one course must be removed before serving another course.

Supper

Bouillon in Cups.
Chicken in Aspic Jelly.   Roast Ham.
Saratoga Potatoes.
Olives.   Rolls.
Mustard Pickles.   Butter.
Salad Romaine.
Crackers.   Cheese.
Almond Pudding.
Coffee.

To serve this supper you will need: Heavy table-cloth, linen table-cloth, carving-cloths, napkins, doilies, flower bowl, candlesticks, carafes, tumblers, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, plate for rolls, butter plate and knife, bread-and-butter plates, olive dishes, pickle dishes, and forks.

Supper is served, instead of dinner, when it is necessary to gain time for an evening entertainment,

or when for other reasons a shorter instead of longer meal is desirable.

As many dishes as are possible, without crowding, are placed upon the table before the meal is announced.

Have the air of the dining-room fresh, and the temperature not too high.

See that the furniture is free from dust.

Be sure that the table is quite straight. Lay Canton-flannel cloth perfectly smooth. Lay linen cloth without a wrinkle. See that the coverings of the sideboard and side-table are fresh and straight.

Place flowers in the centre of the table, and four candlesticks in a square outside of them.

Lay carving-cloths at the foot and the head, and see that they are straight across the end of the table.

Place a carafe for the use of every two persons, and a salt cup and pepper box for every two.

For each person lay a small plate. On the right of each plate lay a small silver knife, a medium steel knife, with the sharp edge turned towards the plate, a small soup spoon for bouillon, and a tumbler. At the left lay a salad fork, a medium silver fork, a napkin, and a bread-and-butter plate with a supper roll and a tiny butter ball.

Lay your sideboard and side-table with care.

Make sure that everything is in readiness which is or may be needed.

On the side-table have a coffee tray with cups, saucers, spoons, sugar bowl, and cream jug. A salad tray with oil, vinegar, mixed mustard, and red and white pepper; also the carving knives and forks.

On the sideboard place the dessert plates, each with a doily, on which stands a finger bowl one-third full of water. At the right of the finger bowl, on the plate, lay a dessert fork. On the sideboard lay, also, extra knives, forks, spoons, and glasses.

Place the aspic of chicken at the head of the table, and lay the slicer between it and the plates before the hostess. The plates should be half the number of the persons at table. Place the roast ham at the opposite end of the table, with the same number of plates as for the chicken. Lay the carving knife and fork between the platter and the pile of plates.

Place the olives and pickles alternately between and just outside the line of the candlesticks.

Fill the carafes and the tumblers. Put a bowl of bouillon (covered) on each plate. See that every chair is in its place and announce that supper is served.

To remove the bouillon bowls, take in each hand a plate, with its bowl, cover, and spoon, until all are removed.

When a slice of ham has been placed on a plate, take the plate in your right hand, place it on your tray, and go to the left of the hostess. Hold your tray so that she can comfortably put a helping of chicken on the plate with the ham. Serve this plate to the person on the right of the hostess. She will now have a helping on a second plate. Take this plate from her right, carry it to the left of the host for a helping of ham. Serve this to the person at the right of the host. Take from his right the next plate which is ready and carry it to the left of the hostess, as before. Serve the next person on her right, and so on until all are served.

Place a spoon in the potato dish, put on

your tray, and pass it at the left, going all around the table.

Pass the pickles, olives, butter, and rolls, if rolls have been furnished with bouillon.

Keep the carafes filled and offer ice for the glasses.

When this course is finished, remove first the carvers and carving-forks and spoon, then the meat platters and vegetable dish. Next take the plates, one in each hand, until all are removed. Then take the bread-and-butter plates, and the olive and pickle dishes.

Remove the crumbs.

Remove the carving-cloths.

Place the salad fork and spoon in the salad bowl, put it on your tray, and place it before the host. Put the salad plates before the host.

When some salad has been served, take the plate in your right hand and put it on your tray. Serve the hostess first by going to the right and putting the plate down. Serve all on one side of the table first, then begin at the left of the hostess and serve all on the other side.

Offer crackers, then cheese, going all around the table.

Remove the salad bowl, lifting it from the right of the host to your tray. Remove the plates, one in each hand, until all are removed.

Remove the crumbs.

Place a dessert plate, with its bowl and fork, before each person.

Place the pudding before the hostess. Lay the pudding slicer at the right of the pudding dish.

To serve the pudding begin at the right of the hostess, each time exchanging the dessert plate before the person served for the plate on your tray.

Remove the pudding dish and plates and finger bowls.

Place the coffee tray before the hostess. Bring the coffee-pot and place at the right of the tray.

When the coffee is poured place a cup at the right of each person.

Offer sugar and cream.

Afternoon Tea

For afternoon tea you need: Two small tables, fringed or embroidered tea cloths, doilies, an urn for bouillon, bouillon cups, spoons, a teakettle, teapots, tea caddy, sugar bowls, cream jugs, sugar tongs, teacups and saucers, teaspoons, a pitcher for iced water, tumblers, plates for finger rolls, plates for small cakes, bonbon dishes.

The afternoon tea which may properly be placed under the head of receptions is not here considered. To serve it requires more than one person.

The simple afternoon tea of a lady who is at home informally to her friends should be arranged by the waitress. She should have command of this situation, as well as of all others in her department. Bouillon should

be hot, a cup of tea should be hot and fresh. Finger rolls should be spread in such a manner that bits of butter will not come in contact with gloves. A tumbler must be only three-fourths full of water.

Place a small table—round if possible—where it will be most convenient for the hostess. Lay on it a daintily embroidered tea cloth, two or three choice cups and saucers, with spoons, a small sugar bowl with sugar tongs, a small cream jug, a dish of bonbons, and, at the last moment, a small teapot of freshly made tea.

In a corner of the room, or at one side in the background, lay another table with a tea cloth and place upon it an urn of bouillon, bouillon cups, doilies, teacups and saucers, spoons, a kettle of boiling water, a pitcher of iced water, tumblers, plates of finger rolls and small cakes, a dish of bonbons, a sugar bowl, a cream jug, and a tea caddy. On this table have, also, a teapot heating for the next brewing of tea. Twenty minutes, or even more,

may elapse between the serving of the first cups of tea and those which follow. Tea to be enjoyable must be freshly brewed.

When the hostess has received a guest or guests, offer bouillon from a tray which holds also a small plate of finger rolls and one or two doilies. If tea, which the hostess offers, is preferred, offer cakes with it.

Observe quietly when a guest has finished a cup of bouillon or a cup of tea, and, without the least appearance of haste, remove it on your tray. Be sure that the hostess has always some fresh cups ready to serve, and replenish the sugar bowl and cream jug when necessary.

If tea and cake only are served, you will still need a table for the hot-water kettle, pitcher of iced water, tumblers, and whatever is necessary to replenish the tea-table of the hostess.

If Russian tea be served, select a fair, fresh lemon and slice it evenly. Place a small dish which holds three or four slices of lemon on the tea-table, and have another in reserve from which to replenish.

Picnic and Travelling Luncheons

Choose a drawer or shelf on which to keep all the neat boxes which otherwise would be thrown away. With them put cords, small, wide-mouthed bottles, with suitable corks, a package of paraffine paper, and some light wrapping paper.

With these accessories at hand it is an easy matter to put up a few sandwiches, some olives or tiny pickles, and some wafers or cake.

If picnic luncheons are frequent in summer and the waitress assists the cook in putting them up, she can save much time and many mistakes of omission by writing out a list of all the things ordinarily needed for such occasions. This list she will keep in a safe place, and refer to it as soon as a picnic is mentioned to see what will have to be done the day before or early in the morning.

A list may be something like this:

• Plates.
• Glasses.
• Cups.
• Knives.
• Forks.
• Doilies.
• Teaspoons.
• Can-opener.
• Corkscrew.
• Hatchet.
• Coffee, sugar, and cream.
• Canned tongue.
• Canned chicken.
• Cold fried oysters.
• Cold roast lamb.
• Graham and white wafers.
• A loaf of bread.
• Coffee-pot.
• Glass jar for cream.
• Glass jar for salad.
• Jelly glass or a bowl with tight cover for butter.
• Box and paper for prunes, etc.
• Agate pail for water.
• Matches.
• Butter, packed in jelly glass or bowl, and left in the ice-box overnight.
• Vegetable salad.
• Pickles, olives, salt.
• Prunes, crystallized ginger.
• Sweet chocolate.

Care of Dining-Room

Suppose a dining-room in which the movable furniture consists of a table, a sideboard, a side-table, a dinner wagon, a screen, and twelve chairs. In the middle of the floor is a large rug which covers all except a polished border of three feet from the walls all around the room. The two windows are draped with curtains, there are pictures on the walls and candelabra and ornaments on the mantel. In one corner of the room is a closet, with glass doors, for glass, and in another corner one similar for fine china. Under the one for glass is a safe for silver, and under the one for china, shelves for some linen. Both safe and shelves are enclosed by doors without glass.

The dining-table is the right size for the family, its extra leaves being in their frame in

the pantry. It stands in the middle of the rug.

The end of the table next to the door is the head; that next the window, the foot.

The sideboard is long enough and broad enough to hold all that need be placed upon it. It stands at the side of the room between the china closet and the pantry door. The side-table has two large drop leaves, one or both of which may be used as occasion requires. It stands at the side of the room between the mantel and a corner. The dinner wagon is made of the same wood as the other furniture in the dining-room. It is made of shelves of the same size, each with a little guard rim of wood or brass, and each large enough to hold easily a large dinner plate. It stands on the polished floor between the window and the corner next to the pantry door. There is no sill under this door, and the wagon is on rubber rollers, so that it can be moved noiselessly and rolled into the space in the pantry which is provided for it. The screen

has two broad leaves and is placed so as to hide the pantry door.

The rug in the dining-room should be brushed up every morning, or swept with a carpet sweeper, and the polished border should be wiped with a dry cloth. Once every week the room should be thoroughly swept.

Roll up the rug ready to be taken out for shaking. Lay on the dining-table either paper or a sheet which is kept for the purpose, to prevent scratches. On this place ornaments, dishes from the sideboard, etc., and cover to keep from the dust. See that all doors and drawers are tightly closed. Open the windows.

If the rug cannot be taken out each time, draw it one side, and move the table into a corner before putting anything on it. Sweep the rug well, being sure to sweep with the nap and not against it. Roll it up as closely as possible. Sweep the floor with a hair brush having a long handle, and use a broom for the rug only, so as to permit as little dust as possible

to rise to pictures and curtains. Take up the dust and carry it away. Shake out the curtains so deftly that you neither tear nor wrinkle them. Take a feather duster with a long handle to brush off the tops of the curtain poles, tops of pictures, and mouldings which are too high to reach with a cloth.

Bring a pail of water and wipe up the floor with a wet cloth. Learn to rub with the grain of the wood, and do not leave lines or streaks. When dry, rub the polished border with crude petroleum, which should be applied with cotton waste, such as is used to clean engines, and polish with clean cotton waste. A very small amount of crude petroleum should be used, and a weekly use of it keeps the polish fresh.

Wash your hands; relay the rug; dust the room. In dusting use a small feather duster where necessary, but depend chiefly upon soft cloths. Dust should be taken up and shaken out of doors, not whisked again around a room.

Replace china and ornaments. Notice carefully

whether any spot or stain needs to be removed. Polish glass doors and glass of pictures. Wash windows.

To keep the polish of the dining-table perfect, rub every three days with a mixture made of equal parts of olive oil and turpentine. Apply with flannel cloth and polish with clean flannel cloth. Dull spots on other furniture may be treated in the same way.

Every morning before breakfast the dining-room must be well aired and thoroughly dusted.

After each meal crumbs must be taken up carefully from the rug.

Care of Pantry

Neatness and order in your pantry will depend in great measure upon the way you clear your table. If you look upon your butler’s pantry as a dumping-ground, then dirt and disorder will be inevitable. But, on the contrary, if you consider it a workshop, to be kept shipshape, you will avoid these dangers. Shipshape means a place for everything and everything in its right place.

Make up your mind in the beginning where you want to lay your knives, where you want your silver, which is the best place for your heavier china and the safest for your delicate pieces. When these places are well chosen, then stick to them.

You must be sure to have a bowl or pan large enough to hold all the broken bits and

bones from any meal. A large yellow bowl or agate pan is suitable for this. Do not use a tin pail; it is not cleanly. A piece of lemon or a spoonful of tomato will rust it and it will soon become disagreeable.

Do not begin your work until the food is put away. Next empty every glass, cup, bowl, and pitcher. Rinse with cold water those which have been used for milk or cream. Scrape your plates and dishes carefully, and put those of one sort together. This saves time; it does not waste it. A crust of bread from the broken bits will easily wipe out a fine china bowl or silver ladle without scratching it as a knife or spoon might do.

Keep a pan and brush at hand, and if food is dropped on your pantry floor take it up at once. Then you will have one greasy spot instead of long streaks to scour out.

When you have finished washing dishes, always leave your pan or sink perfectly clean. Your sapolio is provided for the purpose of

cleaning them thoroughly and in an expeditious manner. Once a week you must wash down the pipes with a strong solution of sal soda and water that is actually boiling, not simply hot.

Never leave soiled towels lying in your pantry. After each meal wash out those you have used and hang them to dry. You may add a little dilute ammonia to the water in which you wash them. Once a week, all towels that have been used should be thoroughly washed, scalded, and ironed. You need fresh ones each time for glass and fine china. Do not let your pile of fresh ones get exhausted before you have other fresh ones to take their place.

Your pantry shelves should be kept well dusted, every drawer clean and in order, the knife cleaner in proper place, the silver-cleaning materials in their place. See that the clean hand towels are not mixed with the dish towels. Keep salad cloths by themselves. Be sure that the brooms and long dusters are

hung, not standing on the floor, and choose a good place for keeping dusting cloths and small feather dusters.

Always remember that shipshape means a place for everything and everything in its right place.