KNOTS,
BENDS, SPLICES,

WITH TABLES OF STRENGTHS OF ROPES, ETC.,
AND WIRE RIGGING.

BY CAPTAIN JUTSUM, CARDIFF.

Revised and Enlarged.

[COPYRIGHT.

GLASGOW:
The Nautical Press,
JAMES BROWN & SON,
NAUTICAL AND ENGINEERING PUBLISHERS.
1914

INTRODUCTION.

The object of this little work is to present in a compact form and systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important workings connected with Cordage, and a lucid explanation of their various formations.

The explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider almost unnecessary minuteness, but the aim throughout has been to render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the first time.

To attain this end, diagrams are introduced at every stage, and if followed closely step by step, in conjunction with the text referring to them, the learner should have no difficulty in following their construction.

At the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really skilled workmanship, amounting almost to an art, can only be gained by much practice and perseverance, and should gladly avail himself of any advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced ship-mates.

J. NETHERCLIFT JUTSUM.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
The Construction of Ropes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [1]
Common Whipping, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [3]
Knots, etc., formed by a Single Rope's-end--
Overhand Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [5] Figure of 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [5] Simple Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [5] Running or Inside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [6] Outside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [7] Buntline Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [7] Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [8] Running Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [9] Half Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [10] Round Turn and Two Half Hitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [11] Clove Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [12] Rolling Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [13] Timber Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [14] Fisherman's Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [15] Topsail Halliard Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [16] Stun'sail Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [17] Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [17] Midshipman's Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [18] Double Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [19]
Knots, etc., made on the Bight of a Rope--
A Bowline on the Bight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [20] Marlinespike Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [21] Sheepshank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [22] Catspaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [22]
Knots, Bends, etc., for Uniting Ropes--
Reef Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [24] Common or Sheet Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [24] Single Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [26] Double Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [27] Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [27]
Knots formed on Ropes by their own Strands--
Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [30-33] Double Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [33] Crown Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [33] Manrope Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [34] Stopper Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [34] Single Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [35] Double Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [36] Another form of Diamond Knot (Single) . . . . . . . . . . . . [38] Double Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [39] Shroud Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [40] Spritsail Sheet Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [41]
Splices--
Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [43] Short Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [44] Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [45] Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [45] Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [46]
Wire Splicing--
Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [47] Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [48]
Purchases--
Single Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [49] Double Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [49] Runner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [50] Gun Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [50] Handy Billy or Jigger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [51] Watch or Luff Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [51] Double Luff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [52] Three-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [52] Four-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [53] Single Spanish Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [53] Double Spanish Burton (two forms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [54] Spanish Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [55]
Miscellaneous Odds and Ends--
Palm and Needle Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [56] West Country Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [56] American Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [57] To Point a Rope End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [57] Turk's Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [58-60] Mousing a Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [60] Securing Lead Line to Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [61] Fitting a Flag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [61] Cringles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [61-64] Lengthening the Rope of a Sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [64] Jury Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [65-66] Sling for a Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [67-68] Chain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [68-69] Double Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [69-70] Twist or Plain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [71]
Wire Rope Splicing, etc.--
How to Handle Wire Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [72] Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [74] Directions for Splicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [76-78] Splicing Thimbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [78-82]
Tables showing the Respective Weights and Strengths of Various
Cordage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [83-86]

THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES.

Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire.

For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp and manila.

These are divided into three classes:—

(1). A Hawser-laid Rope, which is composed of three strands laid up generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.)

(2). A Shroud-laid Rope, also laid up right-handed, but consisting of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre.

(3). A Cable-laid Rope, which is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4).

In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this case a right-handed cable-laid rope).

First we see the cable e formed by the three ropes d, f, and g; whilst the rope g is dissected to show the strands forming it, c, h, j; and in the strand h we see b, the yarn composing the strand, and a a yarn teased out to show the original fibre.

The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which is done as follows:—First lay the end of a length of twine along the end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off take that portion of the loop designated a, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and part b of the twine until the loop is nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part c, and cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7.

Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's end.

Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call a, the portion included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by y and z is termed the bight which we will call b, and from 3 to 4 is known as the end e.

Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make the following knots, etc:—

(1). An Overhand Knot.—Place e up through bight b, and draw taut (Fig. 9).

(2). A Figure of Eight Knot.—Back e round behind a, bring over part z and dip down through bight b and haul taut (Fig. 10).

(3). A Simple Clinch is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a small ring and securing by a seizing—a small lashing at d (Fig. 11).

One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks.

(4). A Running or Inside Clinch is the foregoing, formed by the end of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12).

(5.) An Outside Clinch, as may be inferred from its name, is formed in a similar manner, but the end c is brought round on top, that is, away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc.

(6). A Buntline Hitch (an alternative method of securing buntlines to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of putting on a seizing, take a longer end c, pass it over y, bring up through bight b, and tuck the end again over part y and through the last loop formed, so that the end c lies close to the commencement of part z (Fig. 14).

(7). A Bowline.—Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first taking part z in the right hand with y in the left, throw a loop over c, the end, as in Fig. 15.

Secondly, lead c round behind part a and pass it down through the last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in Fig. 16.

(8). A Running Bowline.—Form a loop with a long end c lying underneath the standing part a (Fig. 17).

Now bring end c over part y and with it form the bowline knot on part z just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose is required.

(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches (Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams.

The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back for further security (Fig. 21).

(10). A Clove Hitch is really a jamming form of two half hitches, and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24).

(11). A Rolling Hitch is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or when hanging off a rope with a stopper.

Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing part a and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its non-liability to slip in the direction B (Fig. 27). If, however, owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is inclined to slip, the end e should be backed round part d of the first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by a stop (Fig. 28).

(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, 30).

The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose so that its formation may be the more easily seen.

(13) A Fisherman's Bend is formed by taking two round turns around the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half hitch around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), the dotted line showing the next direction the end c must take.

It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket hitch.

(14). A Topsail Halyard Bend.—This bend is never seen in deep water ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part a and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in Fig. 34.

(14). A Stun'sail Halyard Bend is simply a Fisherman's bend with the end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35).

(15). A Blackwall Hitch is a quick way of temporarily securing a rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it consists of a half hitch, the standing part a as soon as it receives the strain jamming the end part c. It holds much more firmly than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at b before passing the end c under a, it will hold more securely.

(17). A Midshipman's Hitch is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37).

(18). A Double Blackwall Hitch is made by taking the bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the two preceding hitches.

KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE,
THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING THE ENDS.

(1). A Bowline on the Bight—Using both parts of the rope together, commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, open out bight c, and taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will appear as in Fig. 40.

(2). A Marline-Spike Hitch is used for getting a purchase with a marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing part and over the sides of the loop.

(3). A Sheep Shank is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the amount desired in the form of Fig. 42.

Then with parts a and b form a half hitch round the two parts of the bight as in Fig. 43.

To render it still more dependable, the bight a and b may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45.

(4). A Catspaw is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. 46.

Then taking hold of a and b in either hand twist them up as in Fig. 47; bring together the two eyes a and b and hook in the tackle.

KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES FOR UNITING ROPES.

(1). A Reef Knot.—The simplest of all knots, and is always used when a common tie is required. Its formation may be easily traced in Figs. 48, 49, 50. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 48, be sure part a is kept in front of part b as here shown, and the end c led in according to the direction of the dotted line.

(2). A Common Bend or Sheet Bend.—In making a bend the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot, but an eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in Fig. 51, and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways according to the bend desired.

To form a Sheet Bend, pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at point a and bring up through the loop, then form with it a half hitch round c and b (Fig. 52).

It will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end c is passed round again as in Fig. 53.

(3). For bending two hauling lines together use a Carrick Bend. First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in Fig. 54.

Pass the second hawser under the first at a, bring up through the eye b, back it over the cross at c, and bring up again towards you through the eye b, and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respective parts (Fig. 55).

(4). A Double Carrick Bend is formed in precisely a similar manner, but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser at c, and then led up again through the eye b and finished off as before (Fig. 56).

(5). A Diamond Knot formed by the two ends of a rope is really a fancy knot. It is often made with Hambro' line in forming lanyards for marline-spikes, knives, etc. It is a pretty knot and very easily made.

First lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in Fig. 57.

Notice carefully how this loop is lettered, and then, taking up the second cord, lay it under the loop at a, straight along also under the loop at b, now bring it over the first cord at c and under it at d and over it at e, then dip it under its own part now lying between a and b, and lead it over the first cord at f.

The knot, still in an unfinished state, will now appear as in Fig. 58.

Now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines (taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the purpose), and bring them both up through the opening a. Bring the two standing parts b and c together, and gradually render all parts in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible, when it will appear as in Fig. 59.

KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS.

Although our next series of knots are generally known as "fancy knots" they are by no means merely ornamental, many of them playing important parts in the standing rigging of a ship.

(1). To Form a Wall Knot.—First unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in Fig. 60.

Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand a in the direction indicated by the dotted line, viz., under strand b and up between strands b and c (Fig. 61).

Then with strand b form a similar loop, enclosing strands a and c, and bringing the end of strand b up between a and d (Fig. 62).

Now with strand c form a similar loop, enclosing strands b and a by leading the end of strand c up through the loop e in strand a (Fig. 63).

Finally, work all parts well taut, whip the ends of the strands together and cut off short (Fig. 64).

(2). A Double Wall Knot is formed by allowing each strand to again follow its lead as given in a single wall knot, opening out the first loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose. The three strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after whipping them together. This knot is also known as a stopper knot.

(3). A Crown Knot is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar manner to a wall knot, but the strands are successively led over each other instead of under. Its construction will be easily followed in Fig. 65.

Double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside its first lead.

Our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown.

(4). A Manrope Knot is made by first forming a wall and then crowning it (Fig. 66.)

Then follow round the wall again, and lastly, follow round the crown, when the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 67.

A knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall, and afterwards following round the crown and wall again is another form of the Stopper Knot. It is very similar in appearance when finished to a Manrope Knot.

(5). A Single Matthew Walker.—To make this knot commence similarly to a wall, but pass the first strand a under both b and c, as in Fig. 68.

Then pass b under both strands c and a, and bring up through the loop first formed by a (Fig. 69).

Similarly pass c under a and b, and bring up through the loop first formed by b (Fig. 70).

(6). A Double Matthew Walker will be easily learnt if you notice the difference between a single Matthew Walker and a Wall Knot.

In the Wall Knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through the loop formed by this second strand.

In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands to its right, coming up through the loop of the third strand.

Another evolution in the same order brings us to the double Matthew Walker. It is formed, as will be seen by carefully following diagram 71, by making each strand contain in its own loop, the other two strands, and its own end, that is, each strand leads up through its own bight after interlacing the other two.

When worked taut and finished off, it will appear as in Fig. 72.

(7). A Single Diamond Knot.—This is another method of forming the knot shown in Fig. 59, which in that case was formed by the two ends of the same rope.

To form it on a rope by its own strands, unlay the rope to the place where it is desired to form the knot, and as after the knot is made the strands will have to be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of the three strands down alongside the standing part of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold them thus with the left hand. Take the first strand a (Fig. 73) and, putting it over the next, b, bring it up through the bight of the third strand c.

Take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of the first. The last strand is brought through over the first and up through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the rope up again. Fig. 74 shows the loops in their places with the ends through them before they are hauled taut. Fig. 75 gives the knot finished.

For a double diamond we first make a single diamond, the ends are then made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last strand passes through two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before (Fig. 76).

(8). A Shroud Knot is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77).

The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in Fig. 79.

(9). A Spritsail Sheet Knot.—Unlay both ends of the rope and bring the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80.

Grasping both parts of the rope at a, with the six strands form a Wall Knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under 5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1.

This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is very easily made in practice.

Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top in an opposite direction, and crown by passing the other four, each in turn, alternately over and under these two.

Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward direction alongside the strands forming the first walling.

Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning.

Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81.

SPLICES.

(1). An Eye Splice is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pass the strand on the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.)

Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck.

If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a Sailmaker's Splice.

(2). A Short Splice is used to join two ropes when it is not required to pass through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other.

Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope b in a similar manner to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of b into a (Figs. 84 and 85).

(3). A Cut Splice is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in Fig. 86.

Leaving the ropes between a a to form an oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice after this treatment.

A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to appear, the two lines are twisted together.