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KITECRAFT

AND KITE TOURNAMENTS

By Charles M. Miller

Assistant Supervisor of Manual Training
Los Angeles, California

The Manual Arts Press
Peoria, Illinois

COPYRIGHT,
Charles M. Miller,
1914.

The North Wind is my prancing steed,

The Bridle is my kite;

I’ll harness him, I’ll drive him,

’Till my kite’s most out of sight.

M.

I saw you toss the kites on high,

And blow the birds about the sky,

And all about I heard you pass,

Like ladies’ skirts across the grass.

Stevenson.

INTRODUCTION.

Perhaps the one word that best expresses the trend of education at the present time is the word life-likeness. The trend is toward more and more life-likeness in organization and methods. The effort toward diversification which has resulted in putting manual training into courses of study, in multiplying courses in high schools, in providing ungraded and other special rooms in elementary schools, in breaking grades up into groups for teaching and promotions, in keeping playgrounds and shops open afternoons and Saturdays, in opening the school buildings evenings for social centers or socialized evening schools,—which has resulted in all these changes and others that might be mentioned,—is simply an effort to make the schools like life. The theory behind this is that if a school is like life, children will like school for the same reason that they like life, and the theory is sound. Before these changes were introduced, our public schools were a composite structure, made up nearly altogether of two elements, neither of which was in any degree life-like. These two elements were the medieval monastery, for order, and the 19th century factory, for process.

Kite-making in connection with schools is in line with this trend toward life-likeness. As the ideas and plans contained in this book have been worked out and carried into execution in the schools of Los Angeles by the author, they have demonstrated a wonderful socializing power. By recognizing kite-season in the schools and carrying the discussion of it into the shop and classrooms, ending with a great kite-tournament each year, not only have very many boys been reached who would not have responded to other influences, but the whole community has been stirred to sympathetic interest in the schools. This is the kind of influence which causes children to feel that school is life, and therefore makes tremendously for wholesome education. If the ideas and plans of the author can be carried out elsewhere as they have been in Los Angeles for several years, they must prove a help to the cause of education.

M. C. Bettinger,
Assistant Superintendent of Schools.

PREFACE.

When we started kite work in the Los Angeles City Schools, we little thought that so great an opportunity for awakening latent power in a certain class of boys was being initiated, nor did we dream of any such kite tournaments as have been developed during the past six years. Starting with half a dozen plans, sent out on mimeographed sheets to the various schools from time to time during the spring of 1907, the number of kinds and designs have increased to a hundred or more. Other cities desiring information regarding the work, a reprint was published and has been in such demand that it was thought advisable to write a more comprehensive text on the subject. Many of the former designs have been included, but none but what should be put in more permanent form, and most of these have been redrawn for the new work. The plans are not complete in every detail, something being left for the boy to work out, but there is enough in the suggestions so that by reasonable planning, most of the forms can be made by the average boy and still something will be left for the expert.

The greatest number of kites will be made by fifth and sixth year boys, but the spirit holds over into seventh and eighth for the larger and more complex forms, and even into the high school with model aeroplanes, etc.

It is the hope of the writer that this little book may be instrumental in giving our boys and girls suggestions for many happy hours in the construction and flying of kites, and that it may also serve a good purpose to teacher and pupil in reaching a common ground, and that it will help some mother in furnishing a good healthy pastime sport for boys who sometimes try the limit of one’s patience for the lack of something to do. It is a home construction work largely, and it has succeeded oftimes much better than was anticipated, for whole families have become interested in the development of OUR boy’s kite. Mother generally is interested first, while father looks with disfavor on so much time being spent on a kite; but before it flies, father gets very enthusiastic, suggests here and there, and furnishes material for string, etc., with pleasure, and they all go to the tournament to see Jack win a first prize. This is one case, there are others.

I believe there is need for such books, and this subject is without such a text, therefore, this little treatise.

Charles M. Miller,

November 5, 1912. Los Angeles, California.

Charles M. Miller.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

GENERAL KITE CONSTRUCTION.

The kite is usually made of a framework of wood, is lashed together with cord, strung with cord according to design, and finally is covered with paper; but in each case some other material might be substituted.

The drawings in this book have the framework represented by full lines and the string by slant dotted lines. The framework must be kept light and strong. It is usually made of wood, the pieces varying in number from two in the plain tailless, to sixteen in a good box-kite, and to a great many in a large tetrahedral kite.

The soft tough woods are better than the hard, heavy woods. Spruce is considered the most satisfactory, but yellow pine, basswood, and even white cedar will do. For a three foot kite, the California redwood shake is very satisfactory. It is a kind of long shingle of uniform thickness thruout, is six inches wide and three feet long. The shake is split into strips about 7/16” or ½” wide, and bends sufficiently for the bow. Some box factories will rip out spruce sticks in 25c. bundles for boys at about one penny each. Some good sizes are 3/16” × ⅜” × 3’, ¼” × ½” × 4’ and ⅜” × ¾” × 5’. These should be straight grained and well seasoned.

Sticks should be uniform in weight and bending qualities. Where sticks are to be centered, careful measurements must be made, then by balancing over a knife-blade the difference in weight can be detected and the heavy end reduced by whittling off some. Some try to find center by balancing, but this is very inaccurate; a string may be used for measuring.

Fig. 1. [↑]

Aluminum tubing is used, especially for parts of model aeroplanes, but it is not available in many places. Some make frames of paper, but they are more for curiosity than utility. For large frames bamboo is excellent, but requires a different fastening of joints than sawn out material, [Fig. 1]. Split bamboo is excellent for curved outlines and for light framework of butterflies and bird kites, and for Japanese, Korean and Chinese kites. Wire can be used for frames of small kites.

Fig. 2. [↑]

Fig. 3. [↑]

Lashing. When two sticks are to be fastened together, instead of nailing with a small brad, they should be lashed. First wind diagonally around both sticks in both directions, [Fig. 2]; then wind between sticks around the other windings. This draws all the cord up tight, [Fig. 3]. Coat over with glue or shellac.

Fig. 4. [↑]

Large box-kite frames with sawn out material should have the upright posts let into the long horizontal pieces a little, [Fig. 4]. If a brace is notched at the end to fit over another piece, [Fig. 5], and is liable to split out, it can be wound just back of the notch with thread, [Fig. 6], and coated with shellac. All windings should be neatly done without criss-cross windings as in [Fig. 7]. Which do you like best [Fig. 6] or [Fig. 7]?

Fig. 5. [↑]

Fig. 6. [↑]

Fig. 7. [↑]

Collapsible Frames. Folding frames can be made for most kites. Large tailless kites have either a removable spine or bow, the square box-kite has braces that spring into shallow notches, and the triangular box and house kite combination can be rolled by having a removable cross-stick. It is a great advantage to have folding kites.

Stringing. Symmetry is so necessary in the making of a good kite, that the stringing becomes an important factor; for if two opposite sides are made unequal, there will be more pressure on one side of center than the other, the kite will be pulling off to one side or darting down and perhaps will refuse to fly at all. A small hard twisted cotton cord is good for stringing as it does not stretch.

Fig. 8. [↑]

Figs. 9, 10. [↑]

On kites where the string passes around the entire frame, [Fig. 8], it is best to fasten at the end of one stick only, as at a, then pass in the notches of the ends of the other sticks at b, c, d, and tie again at a. We must assume that the horizontal stick in [Fig. 8] has been measured accurately for center as that is a part of the framing process. The sticks can be notched with a knife, [Fig. 9], or a saw-cut can be made in the end, [Fig. 10]. The latter is less liable to split out, but the first is more convenient, for every boy is likely to have a knife or can borrow one.

Fig. 11. [↑]

After the string is secured around the entire figure, adjustment between points is made. If a tailless kite is being strung up, the two upper portions are shifted until the right and left sides are equal. The ends are then wound with another cord, [Fig. 11], to prevent slipping. The two lower sides are then spaced and the lower end of the spine is secured in the same way. Some may think it a waste of time to measure the lower strings after the upper ones have been adjusted, but very often there is quite a little difference, due to a springing of the spine. A six pointed star kite would have six, instead of four spaces to even up. Some stringing is used for inside designs, and some is used for strengthening frame.

Covering. Probably more tissue paper is used in covering kites than any other material. There are a number of kinds of tissue papers, but the cheapest, because it is the cheapest, is used most. These cheap tissue papers are now found in all shades and tints of colors.

The French tissues are more durable, and as a rule, more brilliant in color. A kite covered with this paper can be used from time to time without being disabled.

Fig. 12. [↑]

The Chinese tissue paper is the strongest of all tissues in one direction, and should be used so as to bring the length way of the paper in the direction of greatest strain. This paper only comes in a cream color, but is very satisfactory where strength and hand color work are desired. In Los Angeles we get two sheets for five cents, and the size is 22” × 23”. There are some wrapping papers that are pliable and strong enough to be used, especially on box-kites, but only a few of these are of much service on plain surface kites. The tight covering on a box kite is an advantage. Some boys use a paper that is commonly known as a butter paper, and others find orange wrapping paper serviceable.

Of the cloth coverings, cambric is the most popular. The sizing is sufficient to keep the covering in shape during construction, it is light in weight, comes in variety of good colors and is cheap. When cloth is used on plain surface kites, care must be observed that the goods are not used on the bias, as the unequal stretching would unbalance the poise of the kite. Silk is excellent, but ——!! it isn’t used much by boys.

Most coverings are turned over the outer strings, and are pasted or sewn down. In representative figure kites, the edge of the paper is sometimes left free, while the string is made fast by extra strips of paper pasted fast over the string and to the back of the cover, [Fig. 12], thus leaving the edges to flutter in the breeze. Some large kites can be covered with paper, if a network of string is used at the back to give support to the covering.

Tailless, and some other kites require loose coverings, this looseness should be planned for in a systematic manner. If the cover of a 3-foot kite is placed on a table or the floor with the frame laid on top, the edge of the cover may be cut one inch or one and one-half inches to the outside of the string. Instead of turning in this whole amount, only turn in one-half inch of the outer edge. This leaves plenty of looseness for bagging of cover, and is regular.

CHAPTER II.

KITE ACCESSORIES

The Bridle. The kite is not supposed to be finished until the bridle (or belly band) is attached. Nearly all kites require a bridle, a very few have the kite line tied directly to some one point of the framework. The bridle is a very important part of the kite equipment, as the kite is dependent on it for the proper distribution of pull by the kite line, it also gives the inclination of the exposed surface to the breeze. The inclination is varied slightly for various purposes, such as high flying, strong pulling, steady flying, etc. To make the kite fly directly over head, the kite line is attached above the normal point, and to make it fly low, the attachment should be below normal. If the single line can be attached to the framework so as to give this inclination, no bridle is needed but it is usually difficult to locate the right point.

Fig. 13. [↑]

Fig. 14. [↑]

Fig. 15. [↑]

Many kites need attachment of bridle in but two places, while others require three, some four, and some are benefited by the use of many strings to the bridle, but the last may be used for strengthening the framework of the kite more than for general poise. The Chinese say there should never be more than three strings to the bridle, while the Japanese use many.

The tailless kite may have the bridle attached at the bottom and top of the spine (the vertical stick of the frame) or the bottom and at the crossing of bow and spine. In either case the bridle must be long enough so that when it is drawn over to the side of the kite, the loop will just reach the outer points of the bow, [Fig. 13]; ac should be the same length as ab, and cd the same length as bd. The normal point of attachment of kite line is at c, the point that just reaches b or e when drawn to the side. Some bird kites have a similar bridle but much shorter between attachments. More of the form kites have three and four strings to the bridle. The three string bridle is usually two strings above and a longer one below, [Fig. 14]. The four string bridle has two short uppers and two long lowers, [Fig. 15]. For the poly string bridle, see [Fig. 16]. Some have advocated an elastic bridle but the writer has never found it of any great advantage.

Fig. 16. [↑]

Fig. 17. [↑]

A double bridle with a kite line to each, makes a dirigible kite possible, which may be useful in a number of ways and which can give much amusement in kite antics that is not possible with a single kite line. A double bridle is illustrated in [Fig. 17]. Such a kite can be driven at will. The kite becomes a sail and can be pulled to right and left, in circles and various contortions, out of the ordinary.

Kite Lines. A three or four ply cotton wrapping string is used more than any other and is very satisfactory for three-foot kites and smaller. The hard twisted cotton seine twine comes from six to over a hundred ply, and is excellent for kite lines. It is strong and does not burn the hands, nor kink as much as hemp twine.

For high flying or racing work, a light strong cord is necessary. A small kite can carry up a great amount of silk or linen thread but one should have a reel and gloves to handle it. Shoemakers thread and upholstering twine are also used. Some think that waxing a string makes it stronger, but by actual tests before and after waxing, there was no appreciable difference in the amount of endurance of strain before breaking. Waxing does preserve the string and prevents fraying and untwisting.

When kites are put up in tandem, the string need only be as strong for the first kite as is ordinarily used for one of its size, but as other kites are added the size of the cord must be increased. This grading of the string, greatly reduces the total weight and cost of the kite line.

Reels. You can fish without a reel and you can fly a kite without one, but the reel is a great convenience and an absolute necessity at times for both. The reel in brief is a large spool with flanges on both ends, a central axle fixed to the spool, a frame for supporting the axle, a guide for the string to prevent its running off the reel, and a brake to prevent too rapid unwinding when letting out the string. A reel can be made without a crank, by having the axle supported at one end only, and a knob handle fastened to the outer face of the reel for winding purposes. For further directions, see chapter on Reels.

Fig. 18. [↑]

Tails. A tail and other balancers are used to give poise to an otherwise unsteady kite. When a kite is constructed in such a way as to present a broad flat surface to the breeze, it will sway and dive and no matter how carefully you attach your bridle it cannot be supported in the air.

Figs. 19, 20, 21. [↑]

For kites that represent irregular forms, there must also be a special balancer. The tail is usually resorted to in such cases. The tail is more than a weight. A foxy kite refuses to come to terms by the addition of a thread and lead or other weight. The weight drops so quickly to its plumb line that the kite has not come to poise, and makes another pitch in some other direction. The value of the tail depends not so much on weight as on its pulling capacity while being drawn thru the air. The tail, usually consisting of a string with a number of pieces of paper folded and tied thereon, [Fig. 18], and with cloth streamers at the end for weight, exerts considerable pull for long enough time to give steadiness to the kite. A kite must have poise in the air just as we balance a board on the end of a finger—if the finger is not centrally located, the board will fall to the left or right, front or back; so with the kite, if the pressure of the air is not centrally located it will glide to left or right, or pitch forward or tumble backwards. The tail helps most in remedying the two latter troubles. Almost any light surface can be supported in the air by proper attachment of bridle and tail. The Japanese use two or more tails on their square kites consisting usually of long cotton ropes with large tassels on the end. These look very beautiful trailing out in long graceful parallel lines.

Another form of air resistance found serviceable, is hollow cones or funnel shaped devices of light cardboard attached by cords to the kite in place of tails, [Fig. 19].

A Chinese boy had a colored paper ball about 8” in diameter attached by a string to one of the kites last year, [Fig. 20]. Another form is the intersected cardboard discs, [Fig. 21]. Other forms can be used.

Christmas and other paper rope used for decoration purposes could be used to advantage for tails of kites. They will catch the breeze and can be festooned into pretty designs but will need cord supports to give strength.

Don’t throw away a kite because it has to have a tail. The tail is sometimes the most beautiful part.

CHAPTER III.

KINDS OF KITES.

Kites are so numerous in kinds and design nowadays that, in order to get at any kind of intelligent discussion of them, it will be necessary to segregate them into classes and varieties as the scientist does in his investigations of nature study. There is the great big subject of constructive sport called kite making. The name kite strikes joy to any live boy’s heart and it does him good too. But kite making is too big, so we will try running some cross-roads thru, thus dividing it into smaller groups.

A large number of kites can be classed together as having the same general make-up and we will call the first, Class A, Plain Surface Kites. These kites have one general surface without any built out parts, and can be subdivided into two divisions: 1. Geometric and regular forms, 2. Irregular and representative forms.

There are two divisions of the geometric and regular forms:

• a. Tailless kites.
• b. Kites with tails, regular in form.

The two divisions of irregular forms are:

• a. Set pieces of design.
• b. Insect, bird, animal, and man kites.

This brings the analysis for Class A down to variety which will be discussed in succeeding chapters.

Class B. Box-Kites, has six subdivisions:

• 1. Square.
• 2. Rectangular.
• 3. Triangular.
• 4. Cylindrical.
• 5. Hexagonal.
• 6. Tetrahedral.

Class C. Combined Kites. Box-kites may have additions of plain surfaces, or combinations of curved surfaces and plain ones, giving shapes that represent hollow forms of fish, animals, etc.

• 1. Straight extensions of plain surfaces.
• 2. Hollow shapes representing animal and mechanical forms.

Class D. Kites in Series. These are made up of combined kites also, but the combinations are so different that they belong in a class by themselves.

• 1. Compound kites.
• 2. Kites in tandem.
• a. Connected directly to one line.
• b. Connected by individual lines of some length to one main line.
• 3. Dragon Kites.

The plain kites are the more numerous for several reasons. They are more easily constructed, take less time, use less material, fly in lighter breeze, and are usually more stable in air. The construction as a rule consists of two or three sticks as a framework with a covering stretched over it so as to form a simple plane that is exposed to the breeze. Of course, there are tricks in making the plain kites, but almost any of them can be made to fly by either warping the surface or attaching a tail.

Box-kites require considerable time and are more difficult in construction. They are a built up framework with cloth or strong paper coverings. The frames must be kept light and strong, and a process of trussing is necessary to accomplish this. The covering seldom covers the whole framework but usually is made in bands. The space enclosed by a band is called a cell. Most box-kites consist of a forward and rear cell, that is a band is found at each end around the framework, transversely to the length of the kite. Some of the most practical working kites are of the box-kite type. By working kite, I mean kites that are used for a purpose other than pleasure.

Some box-kites have extended wings of plain surfaces to gain more lifting power, or for poise, and the application of these appendages serves to explain the combination of kinds that form this group.

In the group “Kites in Series” we have kites of the same kind fastened rigidly together making one kite, called a compound kite, also kites fastened one after the other a few feet apart on one line and all started up at one time, and still another set of similar kites in which a number of kites are put up on individual strings, one at a time, for perhaps 300 feet, and are then attached to the main kite line. Boys sometimes succeed in pulling up as high as forty kites on one line by this method. Another very interesting and beautiful series is the Chinese dragon kite type. In this a number of kites are harnessed together with about three cords running from head to tail.

These various groups will receive more explicit directions in separate chapters as we proceed. So far in our analysis we have been dealing with kinds of kites as to construction. There will be a number of chapters on various other features of kite work and accessories, including, Kite Decoration, Messengers, etc. The Chinese and Japanese people have been making kites a great many years and have become very skilful workers and decorators. Their decorations seem to tend more toward the depicting of ugliness and fierceness instead of beauty and color harmony, altho many of the color combinations are very effective. The tendency toward fierceness can well be understood when we consider that it has a part in their religion, it being supposed that such ugly monsters helped to drive away the evil spirits.

The large Japanese square kite, which is rectangular in shape instead of square, usually has a big head with plenty of the whites of the eyes and teeth showing. Some very fine specimens have been exhibited at our “Kite Tournaments”. They expend quite freely in making up their kites, use costly ornaments and considerable gilt and black. The gilt is usually very good that is used.

While the orientals have shown us some stunning effects in decoration, I believe that the future will show some results of color harmony and artistic spacing that will be much superior to theirs. We are busy as yet trying to master the kite craft from the constructive and flying side, but we are getting on, even on the decorative side as well.

We are now ready to discuss variety in the next chapter.

CHAPTER IV.

PLAIN SURFACE KITES.

Fig. 22. [↑]

Fig. 23. [↑]

Fig. 24. [↑]

Fig. 25. [↑]

The tailless continues to be the most popular of all the kites. No matter how artistic, how representative, how curious, or how mechanical the new kites may be, the tailless is the first and last out every season. It flies in a very light breeze, and is so steady in the air. There are several kinds of tailless, but the two stick Eddy Kite seems to be the winner. These kites are made from five inches to thirty feet in height. This kite, Figs. [8] and [22], has two sticks of equal length, the vertical stick is called the spine, and should be straight, while the bow is placed about one-fifth the distance down from the top of the spine. This bow stick is bent backward by inserting a brace stick as shown by [Fig. 23]. The advantage of a removable brace stick will be recognized when a person tries to carry several kites to a field at one time. If the brace stick is out, the kites lie flat and do not injure each other, so that twenty-five or more might be carried by one person, but if the kite is bowed, there may be great difficulty in carrying two or three. Most boys bow about three inches for a three-foot kite. See [Chapter 1] for the stringing of this kite.

The tailless kites are nearly all constructed so as to have a keel projecting out to the front. In order that the keel may be of more service, the covering is not stretched tight, but is left loose. Perhaps an inch along each side would be allowed for bagging or pocketing. See Chapter I on covering. If the covering is drawn tight, the kite will dodge and will probably dive to destruction.

Fig. 26. [↑]

Fig. 27. [↑]

Fig. 28. [↑]

Fig. 29. [↑]

Now we can modify this type form of kite. We can use two spines and two bows, [Fig. 24]. In this kite the upper bow should be bent more than the lower, and the bridle will be of more service if attached to the upper bow at two points about midway from spine to end of bow. The covering should not be quite so loose on this kite as on [Fig. 22] but should not be tight. Another variation is given in [Fig. 25], in which two spines are used and one bow. Sometimes the spines are crossed as shown in [Fig. 26], the distance being much greater at the bottom than at the top between the ends of the spine sticks. A modification of the last two is shown in [Fig. 27], in which a built out keel is shown. Two small braces project from the bottom of each spine with a third stick connecting their meeting place with the center of the bow stick.

Fig. 30. [↑]

Fig. 31.

Fig. 32. [↑]

Fig. 33. [↑]

Still one other combination is a form that can be used as a foundation for many outline shapes. It is shown in [Fig. 28], and has two spines and two bows; but where much modification is made, a tail or other balancers must be used. A kite with a broken bow is like a bird with a broken wing, but if broken in the center it can be redeemed for service by the addition of a cross-stick, as shown in [Fig. 29]. The broken part should be well lashed together. A kite could be successfully planned in this way from the beginning. It is possible to make a number of geometric or representative forms as tailless kites, but representative forms as a rule need tails.

Fig. 34. [↑]

Fig. 35. [↑]

The shield, [Fig. 30], is one of the tailless kites and the writer succeeded very well with a two bowed tailless in the shape of a six pointed star. See [Fig. 32].

Perhaps the largest group in real variation is that in which kites with tails or other forms of balances are found. And first and foremost, comes our grandfathers’ old English bow kite, [Fig. 18], having a bow that curves upward, but not backward, over the end of a single spine. Tassels were added at each side of the kite at the termination of each end of the bow, and a long tail of rolled papers tied to a string with a cloth hanging at the end was attached to the bottom of the spine.

Fig. 36. [↑]

The great class of star kites, with varying numbers of points, and the geometric, hexagonal, octagonal, and other forms belong to this group. A three string bridle is most satisfactory for most of these forms. The two upper strings of bridle should be the same length but shorter than the lower string. The latter should be attached at a central point at the bottom. In case there is no stick to anchor to at the center of the bottom, four strings may be necessary or two longer ones may be used at the bottom and one shorter one at the top. However the bridle is attached, the shorter strings are always at the top, and the single string must be centrally located to right and left, whether at the top or bottom, and the double portions on equal distances to each side of center line.

Fig. 37. [↑]

The bridle for a single spine and bow tailless is something attached at top and bottom of spine, or at the intersection of bow and spine, and at bottom of spine. In either case the bridle should be long enough so that when stretched out to the side of the kite while attached at the two points named, it will just reach out to the end of the bow; and at this point the kite line is attached; see [Fig. 13]. Fig. 33 shows a hexagonal kite. The same framework could be covered as a star kite, [Fig. 34]. There may be any number of points to a star kite, but most boys make the six-pointed ones. Sometimes the points are arranged as in [Fig. 35], and again as in [Fig. 33]. [Fig. 36] shows a very interesting tail for smaller star kites. [Fig. 37] has another arrangement of stars for the tail. [Fig. 38] shows a pentagonal kite and its construction. The bridle might be attached at one upper point and the two lower points. Fig. [39] shows an addition to the six-pointed star, in the shape of a crescent. Note that two sticks are longer, extending across the crescent, thus giving more rigidity to the surface. The outline of the crescent was made of split bamboo. In a similar manner, a broad circle could be formed about [Fig. 38]. See [38a].

Fig. 38. [↑]

Fig. 38a. [↑]

Fig. 39. [↑]

Fig. 40. [↑]

Star and hexagonal kites are not the only members of the regular shapes with tails. The Japanese square kite, [Fig. 40], which is usually rectangular in shape, has a vertical spine, two diagonal spines, and several horizontal ribs that are lighter in weight than the spines. The larger the kite, the more horizontal ribs will be required. By making removable spines the kites can be rolled up and the Japanese have exhibited some very beautiful ones that have been imported. Some of these cost as high as $30.00 or more. The two long ropelike tails swinging in graceful, parallel curves give a beautiful effect to the whole kite. The bridle is usually attached at many places on this kite.

Fig. 40a. [↑]

Regular forms of kites are many. In [Fig. 41] the circle is of reed or split bamboo. It would be well to fasten the bridle at four points. [Fig. 42] needs no special explanation as the construction is similar to [Fig. 41]. The balloon kite is another modification. The ship kites, Figs. [43], [44], [45], [45a], show the construction in the drawing. A piece of pasteboard is used for the hull. They make pretty kites.

Figs. 41, 42. [↑]

Fig. 46. [↑]

Fig. 43. [↑]

Fig. 44. [↑]

Fig. 45. [↑]

Fig. 45.a [↑]

The irregular forms are more representative, and to many, more interesting, because with patience and ingenuity almost any form can be made to float in the air. Soaring birds, [Fig. 46], are attractive and their construction is unique. Split bamboo is mostly used for the framework. The Chinese boys take small strips of the Chinese tissue paper to lash the pieces of frame together. It is very light and if twisted while wet, becomes tight and strong when dry. The covering is also of Chinese tissue and colored with a water color brush. A group of about five of these kites is very interesting when soaring about on high. A pleasing modification is an ingenious tail attachment that is hinged to the body so that the tail drops and is raised again by the breeze, giving the appearance of fluttering when a little distance away. [Fig. 47] is a photograph of three that were flown at one time and were mistaken by many for real birds, while [Fig. 48] is a photograph of a pair with fluttering tails. In each picture the back of one bird is shown. In [Fig. 47] the birds are flat but in [Fig. 48] the bodies are rounded out, giving a keel to the kite. This is done by making a light framework of small split bamboo. Notice the little patches of paper on the back that hold the string, allowing the edge of the covering to float and flutter as feathers. The bridle attachment may be two strings, as in [Fig. 13], and may be three, as in [Fig. 14]. A set piece is shown in [Fig. 49], with an American flag fluttering as a balancer. This makes a very beautiful kite when enough time is put on it to make the bird stand out clear and real in appearance. One boy cut papers and stuck on to a background for feathers and while he succeeded well it is not necessary and not as effective as a few good strokes with a water color brush.

Butterflies offer a great variety in design and color, the best results being obtained by pasting the striking colors over the general covering. A more permanent kite can be made by using the Chinese tissue with strong water colors, and it is more a work of art. A kite thirty inches across, made of bamboo and Chinese paper will last for years if it has good care. Butterfly kites have been made to fly without tails but nearly all need one. Two drawings are shown, [Fig. 50] shows the double tail of ribbon and button of cardboard at bottom. The body is curved like the bird form, [Fig. 48], and the edge of the wing is scalloped but the waves are longer than for feathers. A Chinese boy made this and placed a small silk Chinese flag on one side of the head and a like American flag on the other. The antennae were pieces of small reed with silk balls that are sometimes used in ornamenting draperies and gowns.

Fig. 47. [↑]

Fig. 48. [↑]

Fig. 49. [↑]

Fig. 49a.

Fig. 50. [↑]

Fig. 51.

Animal Forms. The animals are not limited to bears, but horses, elephants, etc., can be outlined in kite forms. [Fig. 52] shows a standing bear with little bears swinging between ropes as balancers for the large bear. The ropes in the kite may be strips of cambric. Small strips of wood should cross from one rope to the other back of the little bears which are made of medium thick cardboard. The bridle can be attached from the bear’s shoulders to the bottom of the spine stick. The bridle is attached only to the large bear.

Fig. 52. [↑]

Fig. 53. [↑]

A horse carrying a knight in armor, or horses hitched to a chariot, would take much planning but are within reach. An elephant with splendid equipment of royal hangings would make a gorgeous appearance. When difficult problems of this kind are attempted it should be by kite makers of experience as much adjusting will be necessary, and plans for framework will be needed that will give rigidity and lightness. Some parts in a complex design will need stiffening with reed bent out and around from the framework. Sometimes a small outline may be effected by means of stiff paper and again a string may be stretched from some distant stick of the framework so as to carry the covering out to certain lines. By careful planning some very complicated forms can be worked out. In the mounted knight, [Fig. 53], the nose of the horse will be a straight stick, but the upper line of neck and lower part of head will be bent reed, and of good weight. The raised knee and foot are reed, while the under side of neck changes from the line of the breast by means of a string. The back of the foreleg on the ground is of string, while the extension of the stirrup might be of stiff paper. Much can be done with the brush. For instance, the dropping down of the rump to the tail would be curved, let the outline run angular, then with a heavy streak of color, give form. A little silver paper on the armor will spice it up wonderfully.

We might consider a mechanical model, an electric coupe, [Fig. 54]. The tires may be somewhat exaggerated and stationary, while the inside spokes and hub could be in the form of a small windmill so as to turn around, giving the effect of running. In such case, the fans should be so turned as to turn the wheels in the same direction. By the use of a double bridle and two kite lines, it would be possible to cause the auto to travel across the sky. Electric cars and locomotives might be similarly made and manipulated.

Fig. 54. [↑]

Fig. 55. [↑]

When reed or bamboo are to be bent for some very particular form, it might be well to lay it out on a board with brads on each side, leaving it to dry. In this way a truer form may be secured. Bamboo can be bent into shape by a little heating over a flame.

Fig. 56. [↑]

Fig. 57. [↑]

Fig. 58. [↑]

The human kite has all the possibilities of caricature in it, and there are some very funny attempts. “Just Boy,” [Fig. 55], is a good one, and “Foxy Grandpa” is popular. [Fig. 56] is the “Squared Chinaman”. The “Clown and Donkey,” [Fig. 57], is rather easy, being a combination of three tailless kites. The “Dutch Girl” makes a good kite, also “Me Happy,” [Fig. 58]. In these as in the previous sub-group, much of the effect is dependent on skilful handling of brush, after the kite has been constructed. The flying depends much on the attachment of bridle and balancers.

CHAPTER V.

BOX-KITES.

Box-kites were a new invention a very few years ago. People said, “No use trying to put a drygoods box up in the air,” and yet something very similar in shape has been successfully used for a number of practical purposes. The box-kites usually require more breeze than the plain surface kites, but are stronger pullers, which means also heavier lifters than their lighter breeze cousins. Before entering the discussion of box-kites, it will be well to understand some terms that are used quite generally by all kite enthusiasts. [Fig. 59] is a plain two-celled box-kite; a, is the length of the kite. The framework consists of four sticks, one at each corner, and four braces, two near each end of the kite, placed diagonally across the inside of the kite from one corner stick to the other. The covering consists of two bands passing on the outside of the four corner sticks, one band at each end.

Fig. 59. [↑]

Fig. 60. [↑]