MODERN COOKERY
FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES

BY ELIZA ACTON

NEW EDITION

LONDON

LONGMANS, GREEN, READER, AND DYER

1882.

PREFACE.

It cannot be denied that an improved system of practical domestic cookery, and a better knowledge of its first principles, are still much needed in this country; where, from ignorance, or from mismanagement in their preparation, the daily waste of excellent provisions almost exceeds belief. This waste is in itself a very serious evil where so large a portion of the community often procure—as they do in England—with painful difficulty, and with the heaviest labour, even sufficient bread to sustain existence; but the amount of positive disease which is caused amongst us by improper food, or by food rendered unwholesome by a bad mode of cooking it, seems a greater evil still. The influence of diet upon health is indeed a subject of far deeper importance than it would usually appear to be considered, if we may judge by the profound indifference with which it is commonly treated. It has occupied, it is true, the earnest attention of many eminent men of science, several of whom have recently investigated it with the most patient and laborious research, the results of which they have made known to the world in their writings, accompanied, in some instances, by information of the highest value as to the most profitable and nutritious modes of preparing various kinds of viands. In arranging the present enlarged edition of this volume for publication, I have gladly taken advantage of such of their instructions (those of Baron Liebig especially) as have seemed to me adapted to its character, and likely to increase its real utility. These, I feel assured, if carefully followed out, will much assist our progress in culinary art, and diminish the unnecessary degree of expenditure which has hitherto attended its operations; for it may safely be averred that good cookery is the best and truest economy, turning to full account every wholesome article of food, and converting into palatable meals, what the ignorant either render uneatable, or throw away in disdain. It is a popular error to imagine that what is called good cookery is adapted only to the establishments of the wealthy, and that it is beyond the reach of those who are not affluent. On the contrary, it matters comparatively little whether some few dishes, amidst an abundant variety, be prepared in their perfection or not; but it is of the utmost consequence that the food which is served at the more simply supplied tables of the middle classes should all be well and skilfully prepared, particularly as it is from these classes that the men principally emanate to whose indefatigable industry, high intelligence, and active genius, we are mainly indebted for our advancement in science, in art, in literature, and in general civilisation.

When both the mind and body are exhausted by the toils of the day, heavy or unsuitable food, so far from recruiting their enfeebled powers, prostrates their energies more completely, and acts in every way injuriously upon the system; and it is no exaggeration to add, that many a valuable life has been shortened by disregard of this fact, or by the impossibility of obtaining such diet as nature imperatively required. It may be urged, that I speak of rare and extreme cases; but indeed it is not so; and the impression produced on me by the discomfort and the suffering which have fallen under my own observation, has rendered me extremely anxious to aid in discovering an efficient remedy for them. With this object always in view, I have zealously endeavoured to ascertain, and to place clearly before my readers, the most rational and healthful methods of preparing those simple and essential kinds of nourishment which form the staple of our common daily fare; and have occupied myself but little with the elegant superfluities or luxurious novelties with which I might perhaps more attractively, though not more usefully, have filled my pages. Should some persons feel disappointed at the plan I have pursued, and regret the omissions which they may discover, I would remind them, that the fashionable dishes of the day may at all times be procured from an able confectioner; and that part of the space which I might have allotted to them is, I hope and believe, better occupied by the subjects, homely as they are, to which I have devoted it—that is to say, to ample directions for dressing vegetables, and for making what cannot be purchased in this country—unadulterated bread of the most undeniably wholesome quality; and those refreshing and finely-flavoured varieties of preserved fruit which are so conducive to health when judiciously taken, and for which in illness there is often such a vain and feverish craving when no household stores of them can be commanded.[[1]]

[1]. Many of those made up for sale are absolutely dangerous eating; those which are not adulterated are generally so oversweetened as to be distasteful to invalids.

Merely to please the eye by such fanciful and elaborate decorations as distinguish many modern dinners, or to flatter the palate by the production of new and enticing dainties, ought not to be the principal aim, at least, of any work on cookery. “Eat,—to live” should be the motto, by the spirit of which all writers upon it should be guided. I must here obtrude a few words of personal interest to myself. At the risk of appearing extremely egotistic, I have appended “Author’s Receipt” and “Author’s Original Receipt” to many of the contents of the following pages; but I have done it solely in self-defence, in consequence of the unscrupulous manner in which large portions of my volume have been appropriated by contemporary authors, without the slightest acknowledgment of the source from which they have been derived. I have allowed this unfairness, and much beside, to pass entirely unnoticed until now; but I am suffering at present too severe a penalty for the over-exertion entailed on me by the plan which I adopted for the work, longer to see with perfect composure strangers coolly taking the credit and the profits of my toil. The subjoined passage from the preface of my first edition will explain in what this toil—so completely at variance with all the previous habits of my life, and, therefore, so injurious in its effects—consisted; and prevent the necessity of recapitulating here, in another form, what I have already stated in it. “Amongst the large number of works on cookery which we have carefully perused, we have never yet met with one which appeared to us either quite intended for, or entirely suited to the need of the totally inexperienced! none, in fact, which contained the first rudiments of the art, with directions so practical, clear, and simple, as to be at once understood, and easily followed, by those who had no previous knowledge of the subject. This deficiency, we have endeavoured in the present volume to supply, by such thoroughly explicit and minute instructions as may, we trust, be readily comprehended and carried out by any class of learners; our receipts, moreover, with a few trifling exceptions which are scrupulously specified, are confined to such as may be perfectly depended on, from having been proved beneath our own roof and under our own personal inspection. We have trusted nothing to others; but having desired sincerely to render the work one of general usefulness, we have spared neither cost nor labour to make it so, as the very plan on which it has been written must of itself, we think, evidently prove. It contains some novel features, calculated, we hope, not only to facilitate the labours of the kitchen, but to be of service likewise to those by whom they are directed. The principal of these is the summary appended to the receipts, of the different ingredients which they contain, with the exact proportion of each, and the precise time required to dress the whole. This shows at a glance what articles have to be prepared beforehand, and the hour at which they must be ready; while it affords great facility as well, for an estimate of the expense attending them. The additional space occupied by this closeness of detail has necessarily prevented the admission of so great a variety of receipts as the book might otherwise have comprised; but a limited number, thus completely explained, may perhaps be more acceptable to the reader than a larger mass of materials vaguely given.

“Our directions for boning poultry, game, &c., are also, we venture to say, entirely new, no author that is known to us having hitherto afforded the slightest information on the subject; but while we have done our utmost to simplify and to render intelligible this, and several other processes not generally well understood by ordinary cooks, our first and best attention has been bestowed on those articles of food of which the consumption is the most general, and which are therefore of the greatest consequence; and on what are usually termed plain English dishes. With these we have intermingled many others which we know to be excellent of their kind, and which now so far belong to our national cookery, as to be met with commonly at all refined modern tables.”

Since this extract was written, a rather formidable array of works on the same subject has issued from the press, part of them from the pens of celebrated professional gastronomers; others are constantly appearing; yet we make, nevertheless, but slight perceptible progress in this branch of our domestic economy. Still, in our cottages, as well as in homes of a better order, goes on the “waste” of which I have already spoken. It is not, in fact, cookery-books that we need half so much as cooks really trained to a knowledge of their duties, and suited, by their acquirements, to families of different grades. At present, those who thoroughly understand their business are so few in number, that they can always command wages which place their services beyond the reach of persons of moderate fortune. Why should not all classes participate in the benefit to be derived from nourishment calculated to sustain healthfully the powers of life? And why should the English, as a people, remain more ignorant than their continental neighbours of so simple a matter as that of preparing it for themselves? Without adopting blindly foreign modes in anything merely because they are foreign, surely we should be wise to learn from other nations, who excel us in aught good or useful, all that we can which may tend to remedy our own defects; and the great frugality, combined with almost universal culinary skill, or culinary knowledge, at the least—which prevails amongst many of them—is well worthy of our imitation. Suggestions of this nature are not, however, sufficient for our purpose. Something definite, practical, and easy of application, must open the way to our general improvement. Efforts in the right direction are already being made, I am told, by the establishment of well-conducted schools for the early and efficient training of our female domestic servants. These will materially assist our progress; and if experienced cooks will put aside the jealous spirit of exclusiveness by which they are too often actuated, and will impart freely the knowledge they have acquired, they also may be infinitely helpful to us, and have a claim upon our gratitude which ought to afford them purer satisfaction than the sole possession of any secrets—genuine or imaginary—connected with their craft.

The limits of a slight preface do not permit me to pursue this or any other topic at much length, and I must in consequence leave my deficiencies to be supplied by some of the thoughtful, and, in every way, more competent writers, who, happily for us, abound at the present day; and make here my adieu to the reader.

ELIZA ACTON

London, May, 1855.

VOCABULARY OF TERMS,

PRINCIPALLY FRENCH, USED IN MODERN COOKERY.

Aspic—fine transparent savoury jelly, in which cold game, poultry, fish, &c., are moulded; and which serves also to decorate or garnish them.

Assiette Volante—a dish which is handed round the table without ever being placed upon it. Small fondus in paper cases are often served thus; and various other preparations, which require to be eaten very hot.

Blanquette—a kind of fricassee.

Boudin—a somewhat expensive dish, formed of the French forcemeat called quenelles, composed either of game, poultry, butcher’s meat, or fish, moulded frequently into the form of a rouleau, and gently poached until it is firm; then sometimes broiled or fried, but as frequently served plain.

Bouilli—boiled beef, or other meat, beef being more generally understood by the term.

Bouillie—a sort of hasty pudding.

Bouillon—broth.

Casserole—a stewpan; and the name also given to a rice-crust, when moulded in the form of a pie, then baked and filled with a mince or purée of game, or with a blanquette of white meat.

Court Bouillon—a preparation of vegetables and wine, in which (in expensive cookery) fish is boiled.

Consommé—very strong rich stock or gravy.

Croustade—a case or crust formed of bread, in which minces, purées of game, and other preparations are served.

Crouton—a sippet of bread.

Entrée—a first-course side or corner dish.[[2]]

[2]. Neither the roasts nor the removes come under the denomination of entrées; and the same remark applies equally to the entremets in the second course. Large standing dishes at the sides, such as raised pies, timbales, &c., served usually in grand repasts, are called flanks; but in an ordinary service all the intermediate dishes between the joints and roasts are distinguished by the name of entrées, or entremets.

Entremets—a second-course side or corner dish.

Espagnole, or Spanish sauce—a brown gravy of high savour.

Farce—forcemeat.

Fondu—a cheese soufflé.

Gâteau—a cake, also a pudding, as Gâteau de Riz; sometimes also a kind of tart, as Gâteau de Pithiviers.

Hors d’œuvres—small dishes of anchovies, sardines, and other relishes of the kind, served in the first course.

Macaroncini—a small kind of maccaroni.

Maigre—made without meat.

Matelote—a rich and expensive stew of fish with wine, generally of carp, eels, or trout.

Meringue—a cake, or icing, made of sugar and whites of egg beaten to snow.

Meringué—covered or iced with a meringue-mixture.

Nouilles—a paste made of yolks of egg and flour, then cut small like vermicelli.

Purée—meat, or vegetables, reduced to a smooth pulp, and then mixed with sufficient liquid to form a thick sauce or soup.

Quenelles—French forcemeat, for which see page [163].

Rissoles—small fried pastry, either sweet or savoury.

Sparghetti—Naples vermicelli.

Stock—the unthickened broth or gravy which forms the basis of soups and sauces.

Tammy—a strainer of fine thin woollen canvas.

Timbale—a sort of pie made in a mould.

Tourte—a delicate kind of tart, baked generally in a shallow tin pan, or without any: see page [574].

Vol-au-vent—for this, see page [357].

Zita—Naples maccaroni.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

SOUPS.

CHAPTER II.

FISH.

CHAPTER III.

DISHES OF SHELL-FISH.

CHAPTER IV.

GRAVIES.

CHAPTER V.

SAUCES.

CHAPTER VI.

COLD SAUCES, SALADS, ETC.

CHAPTER VII.

STORE SAUCES.

CHAPTER VIII.

FORCEMEATS.

CHAPTER IX.

BOILING, ROASTING, ETC.

CHAPTER X.

BEEF.

CHAPTER XI.

VEAL.

CHAPTER XII.

MUTTON AND LAMB.

CHAPTER XIII.

PORK.

CHAPTER XIV.

POULTRY.

CHAPTER XV.

GAME.

CHAPTER XVI.

CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, ETC.

CHAPTER XVII.

VEGETABLES.

CHAPTER XVIII.

PASTRY.

CHAPTER XIX.

SOUFFLÉS, OMLETS, ETC.

CHAPTER XX.

BOILED PUDDINGS.

CHAPTER XXI.

BAKED PUDDINGS.

CHAPTER XXII.

EGGS AND MILK.

CHAPTER XXIII.

SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS.

CHAPTER XXIV.

PRESERVES.

CHAPTER XXV.

PICKLES.

CHAPTER XXVI.

CAKES.

CHAPTER XXVII.

CONFECTIONARY.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

DESSERT DISHES.

CHAPTER XXIX.

SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC.

CHAPTER XXX.

COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC.

CHAPTER XXXI.

BREAD.

CHAPTER XXXII.

FOREIGN AND JEWISH COOKERY.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

TRUSSING.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

CARVING.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS.

TRUSSING.

Trussing Needles.

Common and untrained cooks are often deplorably ignorant of this branch of their business, a knowledge of which is, nevertheless, quite as essential to them as is that of boiling or roasting; for without it they cannot, by any possibility, serve up dinners of decently creditable appearance. We give such brief general directions for it as our space will permit, and as our own observations enable us to supply; but it has been truly said, by a great authority in these matters, that trussing cannot be “taught by words;” we would, therefore, recommend, that instead of relying on any written instructions, persons who really desire thoroughly to understand the subject, and to make themselves acquainted with the mode of entirely preparing all varieties of game and poultry more especially for table, in the very best manner, should apply for some practical lessons to a first-rate poulterer; or, if this cannot be done, that they should endeavour to obtain from some well experienced and skilful cook the instruction which they need.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING.

Before a bird is trussed, the skin must be entirely freed from any down which may be on it, and from all the stubble-ends of the feathers;[[3]] the hair also must be singed from it with lighted writing paper, care being taken not to smoke nor blacken it in the operation. Directions for cleansing the insides of birds after they are drawn, are given in the receipts for dressing them, Chapters XIV. and XV. Turkeys, geese, ducks, wild or tame, fowls, and pigeons, should all have the necks taken off close to the bodies, but not the skin of the necks, which should be left sufficiently long to turn down upon the backs for a couple of inches or more, where it must be secured, either with a needle and coarse soft cotton, or by the pinions of the birds when trussed.

[3]. This should be particularly attended to.

For boiling, all poultry or other birds must have the feet drawn off at the first joint of the leg, or as shown in the engraving. (In the latter case, the sinews of the joint must be slightly cut, when the bone may be easily turned back as here.) The skin must then be loosened with the finger entirely from the legs, which must be pushed back into the body, and the small ends tucked quite under the apron, so as to be entirely out of sight.

The wings of chickens, fowls, turkeys, and pigeons, are left on entire, whether for roasting or boiling. From geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, black game, moor-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, wild-fowl of all kinds, and all small birds, the first two joints are taken off, leaving but one joint on, thus:—

The feet are left on ducks, and those of tame ones are trussed as will be seen at page [278], and upon roast fowls, pheasants, black and moor-game, pigeons, woodcocks, and snipes. The thick coarse skin of the legs of these must be stripped, or rubbed off with a hard cloth after they have been held in boiling water, or over a clear fire for a few minutes. The sharp talons must be pulled out, and the nails clipped. The toes of the pigeons for roasting should be cut off.

Geese, sucking-pigs, hares, and rabbits have the feet taken off at the first joint.

The livers and gizzards are served in the wings of roast turkeys and fowls only.

The heads are still commonly left on pheasants, partridges, and black game and moor-game; but the fashion is declining. Of this we shall speak more particularly in the ensuing chapter.

Poultry and birds in general, except perhaps quite the larger kinds, are more easily trussed into plump handsome form with twine and needles proper to the purpose (for which see page [1]), than with skewers. The manner in which the legs and wings are confined is much the same for all; the principal difference being in the arrangement of the former for boiling, which has already been explained.

There is a present mode of trussing very large fowls for boiling or stewing which to our taste is more novel than attractive. The feet are left on, and after the skin has been loosened from them in every part, the legs are thrust entirely into the body by means of a slight incision made in the skin just above the first joint on the underside, the feet then appear almost as if growing out of the sides of the breast: the effect of this is not pleasing.

TO TRUSS A TURKEY, FOWL, PHEASANT OR PARTRIDGE, FOR ROASTING.

First draw the skin of the neck down over the back, and secure it from slipping up; then thread a trussing needle of convenient size,[[4]] for the occasion, with packthread or small twine (the former, from being the most flexible, is best); pass it through the pinion of the bird, then through the thick part of the thigh, which must be brought up close under the wing, and in a straight line quite through the body, and through the leg and pinion on the other side; draw them close, and bring the needle back, passing it through the thick part of the leg, and through the second joint of the pinion, should it be left on the bird; tie it quite tight; and then to secure the legs, pierce the sidebone and carry the twine over the legs, then pass the needle through the other sidebone, and tie them close down. If skewers be used they should be driven through the pinions and the legs, and a twine passed across the back of the bird, and caught over the points of it, and then tied in the centre of the back: this is only needful when the trussing is not firm.

[4]. These may be had, of various sizes, at any good ironmongers.

When the head is left on a bird, it may still be trussed in the same way, and the head brought round, as shown here, and kept in place by a skewer passed through it, and run through the body. When the bird is trussed entirely with skewers, the point of one is brought from the other side, through the pinions and the thighs, and the head is fixed upon it. The legs are then pressed as much as possible under the breast, between it and the side-bones, where they are lettered a b. The partridge in the engraving is shown with the skewers just withdrawn after being roasted.

Hares, after being filled with forcemeat, and sewn or securely fastened up with skewers, are brought into proper roasting form by having the head fixed between the shoulders, and either fastened to the back by means of a long skewer, run through the head quite into it, or by passing one through the upper part of the shoulders and the neck together, which will keep it equally well in place, though less thrown back. The fore-legs are then laid straight along the sides of the hare, and a skewer is thrust through them both and the body at the same time; the sinews are just cut through under the hind-legs, and they are brought forward as much as possible, and skewered in the same manner as the others. A string is then thrown across, under the hare and over the points of both skewers, being crossed before it is passed over the second, and then tied above the back. The ears of a hare are left on; those of a rabbit, which is trussed in the same way, are taken off.

Paste Brush.

Joints of meat require but little arrangement, either for the spit or for boiling. A fillet of veal must have the flap, or part to which the fat adheres, drawn closely round the outside, and be skewered or bound firmly into good shape: this will apply equally to a round of beef. The skin or flank of loins of meat must be wrapped over the ends of the bones, and skewered on the underside. The cook should be particularly careful to separate the joints when it has not been done by the butcher, and necks of veal or mutton also, or much trouble will often arise to the carver.

Cutlet Bat.

To flatten and bring cutlets into uniform shape, a bat of this form is used: and to egg or to cover them with clarified butter when they are to be crumbed, a paste-brush should be at hand. Indeed, these and many other small means and appliances, ought to be provided for every cook who is expected to perform her duty in a regular and proper manner, for they save much time and trouble, and their first expense is very slight; yet many kitchens are almost entirely without them.

TO TRUSS FISH.

Salmon, salmon-peel, pike, and some few other large fish, are occasionally trussed in the form of an S by passing a string through the head, and tying it securely, then through the centre of the body, and next round the tail, which should be turned the reverse way of the head, and the whole should then be drawn closely together and well fastened. Whitings and other fish of small size are trussed with the tails merely skewered into their mouths. Obs.—It is indispensable for cooks to know how to carve neatly for pies, puddings, fricassees, and curries, at the least, hares, rabbits, fowls, and other birds. For those who are quite without experience in this branch of their business, the directions and the illustrations in the next chapter for carving a fowl into joints, will be found useful; and probably many of the other instructions also.

CARVING.

Fish Carvers.

Whether the passing fashion of the day exact it of her or not, a gentlewoman should always, for her own sake, be able to carve well and easily, the dishes which are placed before her, that she may be competent to do the honours of a table at any time with propriety and self-possession.[[5]] To gentlemen, and especially to those who mix much in society, some knowledge of this art, and a certain degree of skill in the exercise of it, are indispensable, if they would avoid the chance of appearing often to great disadvantage themselves, and of causing dissatisfaction and annoyance to others; for the uncouth operations of bad carvers occasion almost as much discomfort to those who witness, as they do generally of awkwardness and embarrassment to those who exhibit them.

[5]. As this can only be accomplished by practice, young persons should be early accustomed to carve at home, where the failure of their first attempts will cause them much less embarrassment than they would in another sphere, and at a later period of life.

The precise mode of carving various dishes must of course depend on many contingencies. For a plain family-dinner, or where strict economy is an imperative consideration, it must sometimes, of necessity, differ from that which is laid down here. We have confined our instructions to the fashion usually adopted in the world.

Carving knives and forks are to be had of many forms and sizes, and adapted to different purposes: the former should always have a very keen edge, and the latter two prongs only.

No. 1. COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS (AND COD FISH GENERALLY.)

The thick part of the back of this, as of all large fish—salmon excepted—is the firmest and finest eating. It should be carved across, rather thick, and, as much as possible, in unbroken slices, from a to b. The sound, which is considered a delicacy, lies underneath, and lines the back-bone: it must be reached with a spoon in the direction c. The middle of the fish, when served to a family party, may be carved in the same manner, or in any other which convenience and economy may dictate.

No. 2. A TURBOT.

In carving this most excellent fish, the rich gelatinous skin attached to it, and a portion of the thick part of the fins, should be served with every slice. If the point of the fish-knife be drawn down the centre of the back through to the bone, in the lines a b c, and from thence to d d d, the flesh may easily be raised upon the blade in handsome portions,. The thickest parts of all flat fish are the best. A brill and a John Dory are served exactly like a turbot.

SOLES.

The more elegant mode of serving these, and the usual one at good tables, is to raise the flesh from the bones as from a turbot, which is easily done when the fish are large; but when they are too small well to admit of it, they must be divided across quite through the bone: the shoulders, and thick part of the body, are the superior portions.

No. 3. SALMON.

It is customary to serve a slice of the thick part of the back of this fish, which is marked from a to b, with one of the thinner and richer portions of it, shown by the line from c to d. It should be carved quite straight across, and the fine flakes of the flesh should be preserved as entire as possible. Salmon-peel, pike, haddocks, large whitings, and all fish which are served curled round, and with the backs uppermost, are carved in the same manner; the flesh is separated from the bone in the centre of the back, and taken off, on the outer side first, in convenient portions for serving. The flesh of mackerel is best raised from the bones by passing the fish-slice from the tail to the head: it may then be divided in two.

No. 4. SADDLE OF MUTTON.

The manner of trussing this joint varies almost from season to season, the mode which is considered in good taste one year being obsolete the next, in families where passing fashions are closely observed. It seems really immaterial whether it be served as shown in the engraving; or whether two or three joints of the tail be left on and surrounded with a paper frill. This joint is now trussed for roasting in the manner shown in the engraving; and when it is dished a silver skewer replaces the one marked e. It is likewise often still served in good families with only two or three joints of the tail left on. The most usual mode of carving it is in thin slices cut quite along the bone, on either side, in the line a to b; but it is sometimes sliced obliquely from c to d: this last fashion is rather gaining ground. The thick end of the joint must then, of course, be to the left of the carver. A saddle of pork or of lamb is carved exactly in the same manner.

No. 5. A HAUNCH OF VENISON (OR MUTTON.)

An incision must first be made entirely across the knuckle end of this joint, quite down to the bone, in the line a b, to let the gravy escape; it must then be carved in thin slices taken as deep as they can be, the whole length of the haunch, from c to d. A portion of the fat should invariably be served with the venison.

No. 6. SIRLOIN OR RUMP OF BEEF.

As the very tender part of this favourite joint, which lies under the bone, and is called the fillet, is preferred by many eaters, the beef should be raised, and some slices be taken from it in the direction a b, before the carver proceeds further. The slices should be cut quite across the joint, from side to side, as indicated by the line from c to d, in which direction the whole of the meat is occasionally carved, though it is much more usual to slice the upper part from e to f. When the brown outside has been taken off this, it should be evenly carved in thin slices, and served with some of the gravy in the dish, and accompanied with horseradish very lightly and finely scraped, with tufts of which the beef is commonly garnished.

RIBS OF BEEF.

Are carved in the same manner as the sirloin; but there is no fillet attached to them.

A ROUND OF BEEF.

To carve this well, a very sharp-edged and thin-bladed knife is requisite. A thick slice should first be taken entirely off the top of the joint, leaving it very smooth; it should then be cut as thin and as evenly as possible, and delicate slices of the fat or udder should be served with the lean.

A BRISKET OF BEEF

Is carved in slices quite across the bones.

No. 7. LEG OF MUTTON.

This, whether roast or boiled, is dished as it lies in the engraving, unless when fanciful eaters prefer the underside of the joint laid uppermost, and carved quite across the middle, for the sake of the finely grained meat which lies beneath the part commonly called the Pope’s eye. In a general way, the mutton should be sliced, rather thick than thin as directed by the line between a b; the fat will be found in the direction c d.

No. 8. QUARTER OF LAMB.

The shoulder must be divided, and raised entirely from the breast in the direction of the letters a b c d. A slice of butter sprinkled with cayenne and salt is then usually laid between them, and a little lemon-juice is added, or a cold Mâitre d’Hôtel sauce is substituted for these. The shoulder may then be removed into another dish or not, as is most convenient. The brisket is next separated from the long bones in the line e f, and carved in the direction g h; the rib-bones are divided from i i to j j. The choice of the different parts is offered in serving them.

No. 9. SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB.

Commence by cutting from the outer edge direct to the bone of the shoulder in the line a b, and carve as many slices from that part of the joint as it will afford: then, if more be required, draw the knife on either side of the ridge of the blade-bone in the direction c c d d. The fat must be carved in the line e f. Some eaters have a preference for the juicy, but not very finely-grained flesh on the underside of the shoulder, which must be turned, for it to be carved. For the mode of boning a shoulder of mutton or veal, and giving it a more agreeable appearance, see [219].

No. 10. A SUCKING PIG.

Every part of a sucking pig is good, but some persons consider the flesh of the neck which lies between the shoulders, and the ribs as the most delicate portion of it. The shoulders themselves are preferred by others. They should be taken off, and the legs also, by passing the knife under them at the letters a b c. The ribs may then be easily divided from e to d. The flesh only of the larger joints should be served to ladies; but gentlemen often prefer it sent to them on the bones.

A FILLET OF VEAL.

There is no difference between the mode of carving this and a round of beef; but the brown outside slice of the veal is much liked by many eaters, and a portion of it should be served to them when it is known to be so. The forcemeat must be reached by cutting deeply into the flap, and a slice of it served always with the veal.

A LOIN OF VEAL.

This may be carved at choice quite across through the thick part of the flesh, or in slices taken in the direction of the bones. A slice of the kidney, and of the fat which surrounds it, should accompany the veal.

No. 11. A BREAST OF VEAL.

The brisket or gristles[[6]] of this joint must first be entirely separated from the rib-bones by pressing the knife quite through it in the line between a and b; this part may then be divided as shown by the letters c c c d d d, and the long bones or ribs may easily be separated in the direction e f. The taste of those who are served should be consulted as to the part of the joint which is preferred. The sweetbread is commonly sent to table with a roast breast of veal, and laid upon it: a portion of it should be served with every plate of the breast.

[6]. The tendons are literally the small white gristles themselves, which are found under the flesh in this part of the joint. When freed from the bone attached to them, they may be dressed in a variety of ways, and are extremely good: but they require from four to six hours’ stewing to render them perfectly tender, even when each tendon is divided into three or four slices. The upper flesh must be laid back from the tendons before they are taken from the breast, not left adhering to them. They are very good simply stewed in white gravy, and served with green peas, à la Française, in the centre. The breast entirely boned, forced, and rolled, makes a handsome dish, either roasted or stewed.

No. 12. A TONGUE.

This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best part, shown by the letters a b. The fat of the root, when it is liked, must be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction c d.

No. 13. A CALF’S HEAD.

An entire calf’s head, served in its natural form, recalls too forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has belonged not to be very uninviting. Even when the half of one only is sent to table, something of the same aspect remains, and as it is in every way improved, and rendered most easy to carve when boned[[7]] and rolled, we would recommend its being so prepared whenever it can be done without difficulty. Our engraving does not give a very flattering representation of it in that form, but having been dressed with the skin on, it was not quite so easily brought into handsome shape as if it had been freed from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is carved across the cheek, in the line from a to b; the part which in flavour and appearance resembles a sweetbread, and which is regarded as a delicacy, lies in the direction indicated by the letters c d. The flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel, which must be detached from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole, in the circle marked e e.

[7]. This will be more easily accomplished by an experienced cook after the head has been boiled for half an hour and then allowed to cool; but it should not be left until cold before it is altogether prepared for dressing. After the bones are removed, it should be laid on a clean cloth, and the inside sprinkled over or rubbed with a little salt, mace, and cayenne, well mixed together; the tongue may be laid upon, and rolled up in it. It must be secured, first with a skewer, and then bound tightly round with tape. It should be boiled or stewed extremely tender; and is excellent when just covered with good stock, and simmered for two hours, or when strong broth is substituted for this, and the bones are added to it. The head may be glazed, and served with rich brown gravy, or with the ordinary sauces if preferred; and it may be eaten cold, with Oxford brawn sauce, which is compounded of brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, and salt, mixed to the taste, with the addition of oil when it is liked.

No. 14. A HAM.

Strict economists sometimes commence the carving of a ham at the knuckle, and so gradually reach the choicer portion of it; but this method is not at all to be recommended. It should be cut at once through the thick part of the flesh, quite down to the bone, in the line a b, and sliced very thin and evenly, without separating the fat from the lean. The decoration of the ham No. 14, is formed by leaving on it a portion of the rind at the knuckle in a semi-circle, and then trimming it into scollops or points at pleasure; and the ornamental part of the top is formed from the fat which is pared away from the thick end and the edges. A paper ruffle, as will be seen, is wrapped round the bone of the knuckle.

No. 15. A PHEASANT.

This bird was formerly always sent to table with the head on, but it was a barbarous custom, which has been partially abandoned of late in the best houses, and which it is hoped may soon be altogether superseded by one of better taste. The breast is by far the finest part of a pheasant, and it is carved in slices from pinion to pinion, in the lines a a b b; the legs may then be taken off, in the direction c d. The bird, when it is preferred so, may be entirely dismembered by the directions for a fowl, No. 16. Black and moor-game are trussed and served like pheasants. The breasts of both are very fine eating, and the thigh of the black-cock is highly esteemed.

No. 16. A BOILED FOWL.

The boiled fowl of plate 6 is represented as garnished with branches of parsley, which is an error, as they would be appropriate to it only if it were cold, and it is seldom served so, being considered insipid. Small tufts of cauliflower would have been in better keeping with it, as the bird is supposed to be dished for the dinner-table. Unless it be for large family parties, fowls are seldom carved there entirely into joints; but when it is wished to divide them so, the fork should be fixed firmly in the centre of the breast, and the leg, being first disengaged from the skin, may be taken off with the wing in the line a b; or, the wing being previously removed, by carving it down the line to b, and there separating it from the neck-bone, the leg may be released from the skin, and easily taken off, by cutting round it from a to c, and then turning it with the fork, back from the body, when the joint will readily be perceived.

After the leg and wing on the other side have been taken off in the same manner, the merrythought must follow. To remove this, the knife must be drawn through the flesh in the line d e, and then turned towards the neck quite under the merrythought, which it will so lift from the breast, in this form:—The neck-bones—which lie close under the upper part of the wings, and are shaped thus—must next be disengaged from the fowl, by putting the knife in at the top of the joint, dividing the long part of the bone from the flesh, and breaking the short one off by raising it up, and turning it from the body; the breast, which is shown here, may then be divided from it by merely cutting through the tender ribs on either side.

It is seldom that further disjointing than this is required at table; but when it is necessary to cut up the entire fowl, the remainder of it must be laid with the back uppermost, and to take off the side-bones, which are of this shape—the point of the knife must be pressed through the back-bone, near the top, about half an inch from the centre, and brought down towards the end of the back, quite through the bone, then turned in the opposite direction, when the joints will separate without difficulty. All which then remains to be done is, to lay the edge of the knife across the middle of the only two undivided bones, and then with the fork to raise the small end of the fowl, which will part them immediately: to carve a boiled fowl or chicken in a more modern manner, see the directions which follow. The breast, wings, and merrythought, are the most delicate parts of a fowl. On the upper part of the sidebone is the small round portion of flesh called the oyster, by many persons considered as a great delicacy.

No. 17. A ROAST FOWL.

It is not usual to carve fowls entirely at table in the manner described above. The wings, and any other joints are taken off only as they are required. The breast of a very large fowl may be carved in slices like that of a turkey; or the whole of that of a small one may be taken off with the wings, as shown by the line a b. As the liver is a delicacy, the handsomer mode of serving these last is to remove the gizzard, which is seldom eaten, then to divide the liver, and to send an equal portion of it with each wing. The whole of a roast fowl may be carved by the directions we have already given for No. 16.

No. 18. A PARTRIDGE.

When partridges are served to ladies only, or in parties where they are present, it is now customary to take off the heads, to truss the legs short, and to make them appear (in poulterer’s phrase) all breast. For gentlemen’s dinners, the heads may be left on or not at choice. The most ready mode of carving a partridge is to press back the legs, then to fix the fork firmly in the inside of the back, and by passing the blade of the knife flat under the lower part of the breast, to raise it, with the wings, entire from the body, from which it easily separates. The breast may then be divided in the middle, as shown by the line from a to b in the engraving here. This is by far the best and handsomest manner of carving a partridge, but when the supply of game at table is small, and it is necessary to serve three persons from the choicer parts of one bird, a not very large wing should be taken off with the leg on either side, in the line from a to b in No. 13, and sufficient of the breast will still remain to send to a third eater. The high game-flavour of the back of a partridge, as well as that of various other birds,[[8]] is greatly relished by many persons.

[8]. A great man o the north eloquently describes that of a grouse as “the most pungent, palate-piercing, wild bitter-sweet.”

No. 19. A WOODCOCK.

The thigh and back are the most esteemed parts of a woodcock which, being a small bird, may be carved entirely through the centre of the breast and back, or distributed in the same manner as the partridge for three, which we have described; or even carved down like a fowl, if needful. In whatever way it is divided, however, a portion of the toast which has received the trail, and on which it should always be sent to table, must invariably be served to all who partake of it. The very old fashion of trussing the bird with its own bill, by running it through the thighs and body, is again adopted by very good cooks of the present day; but the common method of preparing either woodcocks or snipes for table is this: the trussing of the legs is, however, better shown at Nos. 19 and 21 of Plate 6.

No. 20. A PIGEON.

The breast and wings of a pigeon may be raised in the same way as those of a partridge (see No. [18]); or the bird may be carved entirely through in the line a b. For the second course, pigeons should be dished upon young delicate water-cresses.

No. 21. A SNIPE.

This bird is trussed, roasted, and served exactly like a woodcock. It is not of a size to require any carving, beyond dividing in two, if at all.

No. 22. A GOOSE.

The skin below the breast, called the apron, must first be cut off in a circular direction as indicated by the letters a a a, when a glass of port-wine or of claret, ready mixed with a teaspoonful of mustard, may be poured into the body or not, at choice. Some of the stuffing should then be drawn out with a spoon, and the neck of the goose, which ought to be to the right and not to the left hand, as here, being turned a little towards the carver, the flesh of the breast should be sliced in the lines from b b b to c c c, on either side of the bone. The wings may then be taken off like those of any other bird, and then the legs, which, in the engraving No. 22, are trussed so completely under the apron as to render their outline scarcely distinguishable. Graceful and well-skilled carvers never turn birds on their sides to remove any of the joints, but those of a goose, unless it be very young, are sometimes severed from it with difficulty; and the common directions for assisting the process in that case are, to turn it on its side, and with the fork to press down the small end of the leg; then to pass the knife quite under it from the top down to the joint, when the leg should be turned back from the bird with the fork, while the thigh-bone is loosened from its socket with the knife. The end of the pinion marked d is then held down in the same manner, to facilitate the separation of the bones at e, from which point the knife is drawn under the wing, which it takes off. The merrythought of a goose is small, and, to remove it the knife must first be turned a little from the neck, after the flesh has been cut through, and then passed under it, back towards the neck. For the remainder of the carving, the directions for that of a fowl will suffice.

DUCKS.

Tame ducks are served with the feet (which are liked by many people) left upon them and trussed up over the backs. If large they may be carved like a goose, but when very young may be disjointed like chickens; the only material difference between them being the position of the thigh-joints, which lie much further towards the back-bone than those of a fowl.

No. 23. A WILD DUCK.

The breasts of wild-fowl are the only parts of them held in much estimation, and these are carved in slices from the legs to the neck The legs and pinions may, if required, be taken off exactly like those of a pheasant.

No. 24. A TURKEY.

The carving of a turkey commences by taking slices off the breast, from the letters b b quite through the forcemeat, which lies under the letter a, to c c: the greater part of the flesh of the wings is thus taken off likewise. When the bird is boned and filled with sausage or other forcemeat, the breast is carved entirely across in the direction d e, nearly, or quite down to the back, which it is better not altogether to divide at first, as the appearance of the turkey is not then so good. When it has been prepared in the ordinary manner, after the breast has been disposed of, the pinions and the legs may be taken off, the first in the line from f to g, and the latter by passing the knife under it at h, and bringing it down to the joint at i j, where it must be taken off in the line shown. The whole of the joints being in form exactly like those of a fowl, may be separated in the same manner. The gizzard is more commonly eaten broiled after having been scored, and very highly seasoned with cayenne and with a sufficiency of salt, than in any other way. A slice or portion of the liver should be served with the white flesh of the turkey as far as possible.

No. 25. A HARE.

A hare should be placed with its head to the left of the carver, therefore the engraving No. 25 shows it turned in the wrong direction. It is so very great an improvement to take out the back-bone before a hare is roasted, that we would recommend it to be done wherever it can be so without difficulty: it may then be carved in the line a b quite through, or only partially so at choice. When the bone remains in, slices may be taken down the whole length of the back from c c to d d; the legs, which, next to the back, are considered the best eating, may then be taken off in the direction e f and the flesh divided from or served upon them, after the small bones have been parted from the thighs. The shoulders, which are not generally much esteemed, though sometimes liked by sportsmen, may next be taken off by passing the knife at the letters g h between the joint and the body. When a hare is young, the back is sometimes divided at the joints into three or four parts, after being freed from the ribs and under-skin.

No. 26. A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

This is usually stewed, or rather braised sufficiently tender to be divided with a spoon, and requires no carving; but the fat (or underpart of the fillet) attached to it, marked a a a, which is sometimes, but not invariably served with it now, may be carved in even slices. The larding differs somewhat from that which we have described, but the mode shown here allows the fricandeau to be glazed with more facility.

The engraving of the entrée No. 26 is intended merely to show the manner of dishing the cutlets. They may be of mutton, lamb, veal, or pork; and the centre may be filled with the sauce or stewed, vegetable appropriate to either; as soubise, purée of asparagus, of mushrooms, or of tomatas; or green peas à la Française, stewed cucumbers, or aught else that is suited to the kind of meat which is served.

Plate 1.

1
COD’S HEAD.

2
TURBOT.

3
MIDDLE OF SALMON.

H. Adlard, sc.

Plate 2.

4
SADDLE OF MUTTON.

5
HAUNCH OF VENISON.

6
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

H. Adlard, sc.