For Werne’s Expedition to the Source of the White Nile.

Hillmandel & Walton Lithographers.

Richard Bentley New Burlington Street, 1849.

[(Large-size)]

EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES OF
THE WHITE NILE,
IN THE YEARS
1840, 1841.

BY FERDINAND WERNE.

From the German,
BY CHARLES WILLIAM O’REILLY.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.

1849.

CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.

EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES
OF THE
WHITE NILE.

CHAPTER I.

SLEEPING TOKULS OR BARNS. — CRUELTY AND LICENTIOUSNESS OF THE TURKS. — ARNAUD AND SELIM CAPITAN’S FEAR OF THE NATIVES. — NEGROES SHOT BY THE TURKS. — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. — RED MEN. — ARNAUD’S MADNESS. — FEAR OF THE NEGROES AT FIRE-ARMS. — VISIT OF A CHIEF AND HIS SON. — TOBACCO AND SHEEP. — MOUNT KOREK. — NATION OF BARI. — VISIT OF THE BROTHER AND SON-IN-LAW OF THE KING. — CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS.

20th January.—The vessels were towed further to the southward by the Libàhn, whilst the commanders, and we Franks with them, walked on the magnificent shore. The wind, with which, however, we had previously sailed, although not quicker than the pace we walked at on shore, freshened at ten o’clock, and we repaired again on board the vessels. I had made a real forced march, and was at last compelled to be carried, owing to increasing weakness. Little villages and isolated tokuls stood in the beautiful woody country, which is interspersed with solitary light spaces or corn-fields, where, however, the short fine grass was withered. These tokuls are elevated above the ground on stakes, and serve to protect the fruits, or as sleeping-places for security against noxious animals or the temporary damp of the soil. The natives dance, sing, and jump, slide on their knees, sell or exchange their god (glass beads—Arabic, sug-sug), amongst one another, and squat, but not by sitting upright in the Turkish manner, and smoke their pipes. These pipes have prettily-worked black clay bowls, with a tube of reeds, and a long iron mouthpiece: even the tongs, to apply the charcoal to light them, are not wanting. They are cheated in the most shameful manner by the Turco-Arabian people; robbed of their weapons, and plundered right and left. What am I to do? I am ill, and have lost my voice; yet I try to prevent these outrages as far as I am able.

The so-called elephant-tree prevails here exclusively; and one of the chief amusements this morning was to shoot down its fruit, in which exploit Suliman Kashef distinguished himself as the best shot. The shady trees, the prospect on the river, enlivened by the glittering sails, the blue chain of mountains—it was a sight that did me good, and refreshed my inmost soul. But all this was again clouded by Turks. Is there another word for Turks? No: Turks,—basta! A negro, who came from the other side to swim over to us, got into the track of the sailing vessels, and was drowned, although he might have been easily picked up by two ships following us. The commanders had gone on a-head, and I was behind with the Frenchmen; I was not able to call, and therefore fired off my gun, in order, by signs, to induce them to save him. Arnaud also, whose vessel was just bearing up, might have easily prevented the death of the unfortunate creature if he had given a hail to his reïs. He even blamed my impatience, saying I was ill; and added, with the contemptuous tone, in which the Arab pronounces his “Abit,” and the Turk his “kiàfr,” “Why do the fellows swim about in the water?” Upon this I could not forbear using hard words.

An Egyptian soldier, who, like some others of the libàhn, had remained behind on shore to ransack the deserted tokuls, ran behind a young naked girl, when I fortunately noticed the circumstance in our walk. I hastened to Suliman Kashef, who was gallant enough to recall, with a voice of command, the libertine from this his wicked purpose.

The Turkish character involuntarily shews itself on such occasions as these; it goes against his grain to see an inferior enjoying any pleasure. There was no merit, therefore, in Suliman’s conduct, even had he warded off from us a Sicilian vespers. Thibaut had had also a similar incident on board his vessel with the reïs, who wanted to be too free with a young girl whom the former, during this voyage, had purchased for a few glass beads,—I believe from the Keks. This incident was also announced in due form by us; but they laughed, and said, “Badèn” (afterwards), and Arnaud even joined in this opinion.

At a quarter past ten o’clock, the north wind has completely died away, and we tack about towards the west for a short tract, when it becomes again so fresh, whilst the wind is S.W., that we are able to sail slowly. To all appearance, unfortunately, our vaunted voyage of discovery will soon have an end. Selim-Capitan is frightened to a ludicrous degree; Arnaud cannot conceal his fear; and Suliman Kashef, not being yet restored to health, is utterly indifferent. I cannot refrain from considering an instant return as a disgrace and as treachery both to the world and Mohammed Ali. On the right an island, and the last of those two which we had on our left still continues, and so we are somewhat free from the noise of the people on the shore. Sale and Sate Mohammed are no longer seen on land; they have perhaps become the victims of their passions, although they were only to shoot for me a pair of turtle-doves.

We halt, for a time, on the left shore, where there is a large village, partly scattered in the wood that skirts the river so beautifully. At eleven o’clock we set out again, and our men drive back the cattle from the island close to us, through the water to the right shore, for their unfathomable throats appear at last to be satiated. The clapping of hands, keeping time to the singing, above which the “kih, kih” of the women is heard, accompanies us from both sides. We cannot hear or see anything for the crowd and clatter, especially myself, round whom all the beautiful world floats as in a mist, and a jarring din sings in my ears, so that my writing, inexorably necessary as it is, becomes exceedingly difficult. I dared not close my eyes for fear of becoming completely confused. I wanted to go to Selim Capitan, or rather to his interpreter, but was not able to put the requisite questions and to note down the answers. I continue to write mechanically, and cannot square my own journal, when I try to revise the entries of the last few days; for everything flickers before my eyes, and my memory is gone, so that it all appears to me like a dream.

With a light north-east wind, which also assisted us yesterday, we proceed S.S.W. It is noon, and we have two islands, lying close to each other, on our left. A large island ends on our right, and another one begins, by which the course in the middle of the river is, in some degree, confined. Nevertheless, the river always retains a considerable breadth, and a proper depth; and then,—will the poltroons return? The mountain, already several times mentioned, peeps into the window from the west; it shews itself as two mountains lying one close to the other, the western of which rises conically, and has an obtuse peak, and an undulating tail to the west. The latter appears somewhat wooded, yet these masses giving light and shade may be mostly blocks; the conically ascending mountain, on the contrary, has a smooth surface, and may be an extinguished volcano, although one would not expect to find such here. We now find, for the first time, stones in the river, and they are granite and gneiss. They are not yet rounded; the chain of mountains from whence they come cannot, therefore, be very far distant. We proceed S.S.W. An island terminates on the left, and another follows at the distance of some hundred paces.

Four o’clock. S.W. An occurrence has just happened, which might be the death of us all if anything were to be feared from the revenge of these evidently good-natured people. We were on the right side of the river, and went to the left, where the little sandal was towed not far from us by the Libàhn. Natives had stationed themselves here in large and small groups; they greeted us, held up their hands, pointed to their necks for beads, and sang, danced, and jumped. There was no end of laughing in our vessel; I was attentive to what was going on, and saw that the natives had seized the rope of the sandal, and would not let it be towed further, for they wanted beads. Probably the crew of the sandal had taken weapons or ornaments from them, without giving anything in return, as this frequently happened. We steered close to the left shore to assist our men, when eight bold armed figures advanced towards us, and gave us to understand by pantomimic signs, that we had presented beads to their neighbours below, but would not give them anything. They offered the rings on their arms, and their weapons, and signified to us, as we were advancing libàhn, on account of the faintness of the wind, that they would not allow us to tow any further unless we gave them something. They said all this, however, with a laughing countenance, jumped about, and laughed anew. It was plain they were only in jest; but our bloodthirsty fellows, seeing no danger in this small number of men, and never thinking of the probable consequences, just like the Turks, considered this an excellent opportunity to display their courage. They seized their weapons. I was unwell, but yet was standing on deck, and kept order as well as my weak voice would allow me. I went from one to the other, and enjoined them not to fire, until arrows were first shot at them. The black soldiers, who were mostly recruits, I admonished especially not to be filles de joie (the usual expression here applied to those who exhibit fear in discharging their guns), but men (rigàl, sing. ragel), to grasp the gun firmly, and to take good aim. Our blacks are generally very much afraid of the report of guns, and do exactly as the Greeks did at the commencement of their war for freedom; they lay the butt-end on the thigh, and fire at random. On the White River, also, the report of these unknown weapons was more feared than the real danger itself. They listened to me; but then came the vessel of Captain Mohammed Agà, a fool-hardy Arnaut, who is always trying to distinguish himself in some way or another. He shouted to the sandal to cut away the rope, although the men were still on land. This was about to be done, when the tallest negro, who had twisted the rope round a little tree, pointed his bow at the sailor who was about to cut it through with his knife. He laughed at the same time, and it was clear that he was not in earnest; for he had wrestled in a friendly manner with the other sailors, when they tried to get the rope from him, without making use of his weapons. Yet the Arnaut commanded them to “fire,” whilst he had already aimed at the incautious native, being the first to discharge his piece. In a moment all three vessels fired away, as though they were beset by the devil. I was only able to pull back a couple of fellows whose guns had flashed in the pan. Eleven or twelve other victims followed the first, who was knocked over by the captain’s shot. Those who went away wounded were not counted. An old woman was shot down by an Egyptian standing near me, and yet he boasted of this heroic deed, as did all the others of theirs. There might have been from twenty-five to thirty natives collected together at that place, scarcely thirty paces from us, and the high-standing straw might have concealed several more.

We sailed away with the wind favouring our criminal action, for our men had again come on board before the firing commenced. The Dahabiës sailing ahead of us must have heard our shots; they did not however furl one sail to lend us assistance, which might have been eventually necessary. Before we caught up these vessels, we saw a woman on the shore, looking about among the dead men, and then afterwards running to the city at some distance from the shore. The natives were hastening towards it, but they did not trust themselves near us. Yet they knew not the melancholy truth that our shots would hit at a distance; hitherto they feared only the thunder and lightning of them, as we had seen several times. We halted a moment; the unhappy creatures or relatives of the slain came closer to the border of the shore, laid their hands flat together, raised them above their head, slid upon their knees nearer to us, and sprang again high in the air, with their compressed hands stretched aloft, as if to invoke the pity of heaven, and to implore mercy of us. A slim young man was so conspicuous by his passionate grief, that it cut to my heart, and—our barbarians laughed with all their might. This unbounded attachment to one another, and the circumstance that that woman, in spite of the danger so close at hand, sought for the man of her heart among those who had perished, affected me exceedingly, because such moral intrinsic worth, flowing from pure natural hearts, is unfortunately more acquired than innate in civilised nations. We had only advanced a little on our way, and above thirty unarmed natives, who must yet at all events have been informed of the tragical incident that had just occurred, sat down on the sand directly close to the river, without suspicion, or designing any harm to us, as if nothing had taken place, and really—I had enough to do to prevent their being shot at.

We reached the vessels of the commanders, and Mohammed Agà was the first to hasten to them, in order to report the incident. But I also drew near, and there was a kind of court martial summoned. Arnaud did honour to the European name, and took the part of the Turks, who looked upon the whole as a trifle. Finally, the Arnaut, who had already confessed the fact, faced about boldly and swift as lightning, declaring that he had never fired a shot, and that he would bring witnesses to prove it, and—here the matter ended. Selim Capitan thought he shewed his wish to keep up a good understanding with the natives, by throwing into the grass on the shore some miserable bits of glass paste, with a cup. The natives looked and groped about, whilst we sailed to the neighbouring island. Here we found two divisions of negroes, whose chiefs were also presented with strings of beads. Again we threw beads among the grass, and ordered the whole occurrence to be explained by the interpreters; more beads, and—every one jumped forward delighted. One of these chiefs had all his naked body streaked over with ochre: he looked like the black huntsman of Bohemia. They are said to do this in particular when they marry; we have seen already several such red men; even the hair and the ivory bracelets which are thick and of a hand’s breadth, as well as the numerous iron rings on the wrists and ankles, are coloured red in this fashion. Rage and vexation, together with the heat of the sun, compelled me to be carried back quite exhausted down the shore to the vessel.

Thibaut and Sabatier disclosed to me, as usual, their vexation at Arnaud’s assuming conduct, and how they are cut up and calumniated in his journal, which they secretly read, without being able to call him to account for it at the moment. So likewise I am obliged to listen to the loud lamentations of his servant Mustaphà, a Maltese renegade, who always ends with “Credo che sia mezzo matto quest gran signore o baron fututto.” Although he looks very fierce, yet he cannot renounce his nature as a tailor, and is continually asking me whether we are in any danger and begs me, for the holy Madonna’s sake, to take care that we return as speedily as possible, for he would rather a thousand times live with his devil of a wife, than venture again so far among the heathens. Arnaud is jealous at Suliman Kashef having purchased a young girl with his beads, and by the assistance of Duschoïl, the interpreter, prettier than his little sailor’s trull, whom he has hung with glass beads from head to foot. In a fit of madness he writes a long French letter to the Kashef, summoning him to restore the girl immediately, although we are already a long way from her people. Thibaut translates the letter, and looks as if he had fallen from the clouds, for he is in the very same boat with Arnaud himself, respecting the purchase of a girl, that he is going to make a living present to his black Sara, whom he brought back from England to Khartùm. After the letter was read aloud, a rude burst of laughter naturally ensued, and Suliman Kashef said when it was finished, in a pitying tone of voice, “El shems, el shems!” (the sun, the sun.) Certainly it is not the first time that the African sun has produced such an effect on Arnaud; he suffers like all of us, and his arrogance and pride shake him more violently, because they find opposition on every side.

21st January. I this morning felt myself uncommonly well but had scarcely stepped out of the door to go ashore, when the stream of light—I know not what other name to give it—rushed upon me with such force, and penetrated, as it were, through me, that I was scarcely able to sink back on my bed; and it is only now, when, however, the sun is at its height, that I feel myself at all capable of writing. We have remained since early this morning, in a southerly direction. The sails have been twice hoisted, but on the average we are towed by the rope. We leave an island on our right. There are several red skins among the negroes, who are really handsome men; the tokuls, standing singly, are large, well roofed, and, resting upon strong stakes, open on all sides. The stakes form a peristyle, and the inner wall is smeared inside with clay; perhaps they serve as stables for cattle, and summer tokuls. A small gohr, or river, in the neighbourhood of which we repose at noon, comes merrily in from the right shore, and the stream has a noble breadth, but little depth of water.

Two o’clock, S.W. We have a slight north wind, and an island on our right; behind it, the forest continues on the shore. The high mountainous district beyond it is still blue, for the day is not clear. It appears, indeed, partly covered with wood, and to form a chain with the other mountains. The information we possess about this region is still very scanty, and it would be difficult to make any thing out of the interpreters, even if my head were less affected. Groups of a hundred and fifty to two hundred negroes are standing together on all sides; they generally accompany us a short way, without uniting themselves to the next swarm. This perhaps arises more from accident than for the purpose of keeping their boundary stations on the water, to prevent falling together by the ears, whilst watering their herds, and on other occasions. Islands impede our course, and the crew see, to their terror, a number of natives, holding their weapons aloft, wade through the river from one side to the other. We immediately take possession of a little islet in the middle of the river, and surround it with our vessels; a regular military position, for it is surrounded with deeper water. It is about a hundred paces long from north to south, and from five to six broad, and the shores fall away steeply to the river.

Feïzulla Capitan disembarks, and returns soon from Selim Capitan, with the melancholy intelligence that there is “moje mafish,” (no water). I was completely in despair, left the vessel, and set off to the top of the islet, where Turks and Franks were assembled for further consultation. The black people found on it were driven away by us; they jumped into the water like frogs, so that we heard a simultaneous fearful splash. They soon stood on the more shallow ground, and shouted their huzza, “Hui, ii hui iih!” laughed and joked, and offered their valuables, &c. We let some of the negroes come on the islet, and gave them presents of beads. About evening a large herd of cows appeared on the right shore; they were lean, possibly having been long in want of fresh grass. The men, armed with spears, bows, and arrows, drove the herds from the right to the left shore, where we likewise remarked a herd of cattle. Our gentlemen were horribly afraid when the people accumulated like a black swarm of bees on all sides.

It was a lucky circumstance that a large bird of prey perched on the mast, to take a view aloft of the flesh under him. All eyes were directed to us and this bird, when Suliman Kashef seized his long gun; the blacks watched us closely, jostled each other, and were on tenter-hooks of anxiety, for they did not know what it meant. Suliman Kashef fired; the report set them in momentary fear, and they were about to run away, when the sight of the bird falling into the water, noted them, as it were, to the ground. When, however, other birds of prey flew down on the water, to see what fate had befallen their feathered friend, the “Hui, ii hui iih,” immediately came to a close; they ran as fast as they could, for this appeared too much for them to stand, having seen no arrow or stone flying at the bird. This single shot might be of importance at this moment, when the people generally, though at a distance, might have shewn a bad feeling; moreover the incident was of inestimable value to the expedition, because it infused the feeling of our superiority, and even enhanced it, in their dismayed hearts. If I had previously strained every nerve to prevent the return already determined upon, and had got the again-convalescent Kashef on my side, so now even the timorous Selim Capitan was inclined to have the track more accurately examined.

22nd January.—There was not a breath of wind, and it is still undetermined whether we shall proceed further. I therefore proposed to the Frenchmen, whose courage I could naturally have no doubt of, to take out some of the freight from their vessel, which is lightly built and convenient, and thus to press on further. They agreed to this proposal. I described the country, and we were having breakfast together, when intelligence was brought to us that it was decided to go on. No sooner does Selim Capitan see the long-legged blacks going to their cattle, swimming over to the right shore, than fear seizes him anew; we, however, by our joint efforts, manage to remove it.

In the meanwhile, the chief of this country comes to us with his grown-up son. A red cloth dress of honour is put on the old man; a red chequered cotton handkerchief tied round his head; and glass beads are hung round his neck. They also gave the son beads, and bound a piece of calico round him like a napkin. It was plain to be seen that they were delighted with these presents, and particularly at the pleasure of conversing and communicating with us. The old man’s name is Nalewadtshòhn, his son’s Alumbèh; but their great Mattà (king or lord, perhaps analogous to the title of honour previously conferred on us, “Màdam,)” is called Làkono. The latter is said to possess a beautiful red woollen dress, of a different cut to the Abbaie, presented to Nalewadtshòhn. It must be truly interesting to see here, all of a sudden, a negro king in an English uniform, although it may only come from the Ethiopian sea, or the Indian Ocean. Sultan Làkono dwells on Mount Pelenja, and rules over a large country, called Bari, pronounced by the Turks, however, without further ceremony, Beri. We are said to have been within the limits of this kingdom for the last two days: those men shot by us belonged also to Bari.

According to Nalewadtshòhn, who is in general very talkative, and does not appear very favourably inclined towards his king, all the mountains in the neighbourhood have abundance of iron; and Mount Pelenja, a quantity of copper, which is here in great estimation. Iron-ochre, which the natives here and there use to colour themselves with, is said to be found on all sides, formed by them, however, into balls: by this preparation, perhaps, a cleansing of the material takes place. The high mountain-chain we had already seen, lies to the west, at some hours’ distance, over the left shore of the Nile. Its name is Niakanja, and the mountains before us are called Korèk and Lubèhk, which are said to be followed by many other higher mountains. Both the men are strikingly handsome, although not one of the whole multitude can be called ugly. They are tall and strongly built; have a nose, somewhat broad indeed, but not flat; on the contrary, slightly raised, such as we see in the heads of Rhamses; a full mouth, not at all like that of negroes, but exactly the same as in the Egyptian statues; a broad arched forehead, and a speaking, honest-looking eye. The latter is not, as we have found generally in the marsh regions, entirely suffused with blood, whereby the countenances have a dismal appearance, but clear, full, and black, yet not dazzling. We observed that their legs were well formed, though not muscular; their naked bodies were adorned with the very same decorations of ivory and iron as we had seen in the others. The name of the village on the right side of the river is Baràko; the village lying immediately opposite, under the trees, before which are a small island and pastures, is called Niowàh. Alumbèh was sent as our envoy to King Làkono.

We leave our island at noon, and have a larger island on our right, a smaller one on the left, and tow to the south, accompanied by the negroes in the water: they even come with their long bodies to the side of the vessel, and part with every thing they have for the beloved sug-sug.

At Asser (three o’clock in the afternoon), S.S.W., with oars and sails. A village, on the right side of the river, contains only a few tokuls; but a large herd of cattle, grazing there, sets our crew longing again. About sun-set, S. I procure a beautiful spear for a single glass bead—silly, childish people! Immediately after sun-set, W.S.W. On the left a small island; a gohr, or arm of a river, appearing to form a large island, pours forth from thence, if it be not a tributary stream. The wood before us contrasts by its dark hue with the coloured horizon, over which, as yet, no alpine country glows. On the right shore stand a number of armed and laughing negroes, in picturesque positions; this has been the case the whole time, both in the water and on land. They walk arm-in-arm, quite in a brotherly manner, or with their arms round one another’s necks, as the students in Germany used to do in my time. They help each other in getting up on shore, and have frequently one foot placed firmly against the knee, standing like cranes. They lean on their spears, or long bows, or squat down; but I see none of them sitting or lying on the ground, according to the lazy custom of the orientals.

The north wind is so faint that we are obliged to lend assistance with poles; the river has more water, thank God, than we thought; and even our reïs, whom a longing fit for his wives every now and then seizes, believes that this water-course will hold on for some time. We anchor in the middle of the river, and the guards are doubled in the vessels. I am tired of this constant variety of sensations, and yet would like to see and hear much more. My head is so heavy and stupid, that I cannot accept Suliman Kashef’s invitation.

23rd January.—Half-past eight o’clock. We have gone so far in a southerly direction by the rope, and we move S. by W. and S.W. The rapidity of the river has increased from one mile and a half to two miles. The walk on shore has tired me more, because I was followed by the natives, with all their effects, and retarded, so that I was obliged to break a road through them, half by violence, though I am still very weak in my legs. I purchased for a couple of miserable beads a little sheep, covered partly with wool, and partly with hair, as the sheep here generally are, and having a long mane under the throat, and horns twisted back. Selim Capitan says that a similar species is found in Crete.

Tobacco is called here also tabac, as mostly on the White River. The Arabs give it the name of dogàhn; this is the small-leaved sort, with dun-coloured flowers, which is cultivated likewise in Bellet Sudàn. I have not seen the tobacco-plant growing wild here; therefore, I cannot say whether the name of tobacco is indigenous here with the plant, or has been introduced by immigrants. Nevertheless, the Arabs are not generally smokers, and it is unlikely that tobacco was brought in by them; and it is less probable, because, had it been so, it would have kept the name of dogàhn. In Sennaar, however, a good but very strong tobacco has been cultivated for ages, and was probably introduced by the Funghs, who are likewise a well-formed negro race. Our usual title of honour is matta, which they, however, only give to the whites. The shores are very extensively intersected with layers of sand.

Ten o’clock. S. by E., and then S.W. Two villages on the right shore. We sail with a slight north wind, but scarcely make one mile, for the current is considerably against us. We meet continually with some fire-eaters among the blacks on the shore; they are startled, certainly, at the report, but are not particularly frightened, especially if it be not close to their ears. We have Mount Korèk in a south-westerly direction before us. It stands like the Niakanja, to which we have only come within the distance of from three to four hours, and which lies behind us, isolated from the other mountains. The summit appears flat from where we are; it has many indentations, and seems to rise only about six hundred feet above its broad basis, to which the ground ascends from the river. The wind having nearly ceased for half an hour, freshens again for three miles.

At noon. S.S.W. In a quarter of an hour, a gohr or arm of the Nile comes from S. by E.; we make only two miles more, and the wind deserts us again; we lie, therefore, as if stuck to the place, after having been thrown by the current on to the island, formed by the before-named arm on the right shore. But the wind soon freshens again; we sail away cheerfully. The ships drive one against the other, or upon the sand, but work themselves loose again; the negroes come in the water; confusion here—confusion everywhere. A herd of calves stop in the water before us; this is really tempting, but we sail on. The log gives four miles, from which two miles must be deducted for the rapidity of the current, though the reïs can not understand this.

At half-past twelve o’clock, the end of the island; we sail S.S.E., and then S. by W. On the right shore a large durra-field, apparently the second crop on the very same stalks. The natives there, according to the custom of this country, have little stools to sit on, and a small gourd drinking-cup by their side. As before, part of them are unarmed, and have merely a long stick, with forks or horns at the top, in their hands. The covering of the head is various. Several have differently formed little wicker baskets on their heads, as a protection against the sun. They wear strings of the teeth of dogs or apes on various parts of the body, but mostly on the neck, as an ornament or talisman. They have bracelets, the points of which being covered with bits of fur, are curved outwards like little horns. Our envoy Alumbèh imitated all the motions and the voice of an ox, in order to make us understand the meaning of these bracelets. These, as well as the forks on their houses and sticks, appear to denote in some way a kind of symbolic veneration for the bull, whose horns I had previously seen adorned with animals’ tails; for the bull is bold, and the support of the family among the herds.

One o’clock. A number of negroes are squatting on the island at the left, or rather are sitting on their stools, and wondering at us sailing so merrily to S.S.W. I count eleven villages; but I do not trust myself on deck, for we have 30° Reaumur. About evening the whole scene will appear more surprising and pleasing to me; for even my servants, looking in exultingly at the window, praise the beauty of the country. On all sides, therefore, plenty of mountains, stones, and rocks; the great buildings in the interior of Africa are no longer a fable to me! If the nation of Bari has had internal strength enough to pursue the road of cultivation for thousands of years, what has prevented it not only from rising from its natural state, but also from appropriating to itself the higher European cultivation? It has a stream, navigable, and bringing fertility, full of eatable animals; a magnificent land affording it everything: it has to sustain war with the gigantic monsters of the land and water, and to combat with its own kind; it possesses the best of all metals, iron, from which it understands how to form very handsome weapons sought for far and near; it knows how to cultivate its fields; and I saw several times how the young tobacco plants were moistened with water, and protected from the sun by a roof of shrubs. The men of nature it contains are tall, and enjoying all bodily advantages; yet—it has only arrived at this grade of cultivation. If the perfectibility of nature be so confined, this truly susceptible people only requires an external intellectual impetus to regenerate the mythic fame of the Ethiopians.

The hygrometer seems to have got out of order through Arnaud’s clumsy handling, for it yesterday morning shewed 82°, notwithstanding the air is far drier and clearer than this height of the hygrometer would shew. Half-past ten o’clock. We are driven on the sand, and there we stop to wait for the other vessels. Alas! the beautiful wind! Two o’clock. We sail on southwards. On the right two islands. Selim Capitan is said to have the Sultan’s brother on board his vessel; we are making every exertion, therefore, to overtake him. The commander no sooner remarks this than he halts at the nearest island. I repaired immediately to his vessel, and found two relations of King Làkono on board. Half-past two o’clock. We leave the island and the previous direction of S.S.W., and approach the right shore of the river E.S.E. On the right a gohr, or arm of the Nile, appears to come from S.W., and indeed from Mount Korèk, or Korèg, as the word is also pronounced.

The two distinguished guests sit upon their stools, which they brought with them, with their own royal hands, in naked innocence, and smoke their pipes quite delighted. An arm of the river leaves on the left hand the main stream to the north, and may be connected with a gohr previously seen. A village stands above the arm of the river on the right shore of our stream, and an island is immediately under it before the gohr itself. The name of the village is Ullibari, and the arm Beregènn. It is said to flow down a very great distance before it again joins the White Stream. The latter winds here to the south; to the right we perceive a village on the left shore, called Igàh. On the right shore we remark several villages, and those summer huts, or rekùbas, already mentioned. All the tokuls have higher-pointed roofs, of a tent-like form. The country generally, in the neighbourhood of the residence of the great Negro-King, appears very populous. The north wind is favourable. The black princes look at the sails, and seem to understand the thing, although the whole must appear colossal to them in comparison with their surtuks, as we perceive from their mutually drawing each other’s attention to them. The king’s brother, whose name is Nikelò, has a friendly-looking countenance; and his handsome Roman-like head, with the tolerably long curled hair, is encircled with a strip of fur instead of the laurel. On the right he wears a yellow copper, on the left a red copper bracelet. The latter might have been easily taken for an alloy of gold, although the noble man did not know the gold which was shewn him as being of higher value, but distinguished that it was a different metal. Silver he did not know at all. These mountains being rich in metals, must afford very interesting results with respect to the precious metals. The other guest is called Tombé: he is the son-in-law of the king; stronger and taller than Nikelò, and always cheerful.

We landed soon afterwards on the right shore, as the nearest landing-place to the capital, Belènja, on the mountain of the same name, which was at some distance. They gave us the names of all the mountains lying around in the horizon. The river flows here from S.S.W., or rather the right shore has this direction. To N. by W. Mount Nerkonji, previously mentioned as Niakanja, long seen by us; to W. by S., Mount Konnobih; behind it, in the far distance, the mountain-chain of Kugelù; to S.W., the rocky mountain, Korek; behind which the before-named mountain-chain still extends, and is lost in misty heights. These do not appear, indeed, to be of much greater height; but on a more accurate observation, I distinguished a thin veil, apparently sunk upon them, clearer than the western horizon, and the blue of the mountain forms vanishing from Kugelù to the south. As I once looked for the alpine world from Montpellier, and found it, trusting to my good eye-sight, so now I gazed for a long time on this region of heights; their peaks were clearly hung round with a girdle of clouds, apparently shining with a glimmering light in opposition to the clouds hanging before them in our neighbourhood. When I view the long undulating chain of Kugelù, distant at all events, taking into consideration the clear atmosphere, more than twenty hours behind Konnobih (some twelve hours off), the highest summit of which, west by south, without losing its horizontal ridge, disappears first evidently in the west, and is completely veiled behind Korèk lying nearer over south-west, I conceive that this Kugelù well deserves the name of a chain of mountains, even if we only take the enormous angle of the parallax at twenty hours’ distance.

These mountains lie, to all external appearance, upon the left side of the river, and Nikelò also confirms this. On the right side of the Nile, we see the low double rocks of Lùluli to S.S.E., and a little further to S.E. by S., the two low mountains or hills of Liènajihn and Konnofih lying together. To S.E. Mount Korrejih, and then lastly to E. the mountain chain of Belenjà, rising up in several peaks to a tolerable height, but apparently scarcely elevated more than 1000 feet above the Nile. Far towards S., over the Lobèk, I remarked from here several other misty mountains, the names of which I would have willingly learned, for I feared, and with justice, that they would be invisible in advancing nearer under the prominences of these African Alps. The royal gentlemen, however, with whom we stood on an old river bed of six feet high, were restless, and in a great hurry to take home their presents of a red coat and glass beads. The city is like all other villages, but large: the king’s palace consists of several straw tokuls lying together, encompassed as usual with a seriba; this also Nalewadtshòn had told us. The Ethiopian palaces, therefore, have not much to boast of; it is sufficient if the men in them be pleased and happy, and not oppressed by the cares of government and want of sustenance. The durra was also here, as I had remarked in other places, either cut away, or cropped before it became ripe by the cattle; no matter,—it sprouted a second time, and promised a good harvest, though only as yet about seven feet high. I had seen it thrice as high in Taka, without the people thinking even of cutting it down or mowing it. Selim Capitan dares not trust the natives; we went, therefore, ashore at the island close at hand, fixed stakes in the ground, and tied the vessels fast to them.

CHAPTER II.

RECEPTION OF ENVOYS FROM KING LÀKONO. — DESCRIPTION OF THEM. — RELIGION OF THE BARIS: THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS. — PANIC CREATED AMONG THE NATIVES AT THE EXPLOSION OF CANNON. — LIVELY SCENE ON SHORE. — COLOURED WOMEN. — ARRIVAL OF KING LÀKONO AND SUITE. — HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE COMMANDERS: HIS DRESS. — THE NATIONAL MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF BARI. — PRESENTS TO KING LÀKONO AND HIS DEPARTURE.

24th January.—I repaired to Selim Capitan, to be present at the reception of the Sultan Làkono. He had sent two other envoys to announce to us that he would come, and we were to wait a little. One of these ambassadors was likewise a younger brother of the king’s, a real giant both in height and breadth, and coloured red from head to foot; there was not even a single hair on the whole body of this Hercules that was not red. His name is Dogalè. Nikelò, already known to us, returned also, but entirely in his natural state, not having even one of the strings of beads presented to him round his neck. The other envoy, a relation of the king’s, is called Betjà. Dogalè lolls very comfortably on the carpet extended before the cabin, supporting his long ribs on the little stool placed under him. Favoured by nature in every respect, he has regular features, and a good-tempered though not intelligent countenance. All the questions asked of these high and mighty lords were answered with the greatest readiness. Sultan, or king, is called in their language Matta, which means generally a lord, but there is no other lord besides him. There is no one in these countries equal to their Matta in power and strength. The word Làkono was also pronounced Làgono, for they frequently change k for g, as well as p for b, vice versâ, and they vary the fall of the accent, for example, Belènja and Pelenjà. Làkono has forty wives and several children, amongst them many grown-up sons. They shew us the number, not by stretching out the fingers of both hands, but by holding their clenched fist towards the questioners, in order to express by that means the number five or ten. Each of the brothers of the king had six wives, and this appears to be their usual appanage; for the women are purchased, and they are probably allowed a certain number of wives, according to their station. A private man, such as the sheikhs or chiefs of the community, has only three; the others have only one or two wives, exclusive of the slaves taken in war or purchased, like the male ones, for iron weapons. The latter, I learned on my return to the country of the Bokos, down to which place Làkono has navigated, for the purpose of purchasing slaves, as they told us there.

We order the drum to be beat and the men to pipe; it was with difficulty then that they could keep their seats. They do not display any troublesome prying spirit, or impertinent curiosity; but they see too much at once, the impression assails them too powerfully on all sides. I gaze on these people,—they are men like ourselves, but they are more bashful than we,—not, however, by any means approaching that timidity and helplessness which we have perceived, for example, among the Keks. They eat dates, almonds, and raisins, but do not snatch them hastily or greedily. They take the tinned-copper can (Brik) filled with water from the wash-hand basin (Tisht), and drink directly from the curved spout, after having lifted up the cover and ascertained the contents; yet they have never seen such fruits and such a water-vessel. I observe them in their mutual confidential conversation, perhaps referring to us,—what do they think of us? They are not astonished at the white faces; perhaps they take them to be coloured, like their own bodies, for our crew display all possible tints of flesh.

I am led to this latter supposition from a couple of women having previously tried the skin on my face with their wet fingers, to see if it were painted. The features and form of the head are quite regular among these gigantic people, and are a striking contrast to those of our black soldiers, with their more negro-like physiognomy, although they are not, on the whole, ugly. I compare the true Caucasian races, who are present, with these men, and find that the latter have a broader forehead. The inhabitants of the kingdom of Bari might be designated a protoplasma of the black race; for not only do they shoot up to a height of from six and a half to seven Parisian feet,[1] which we have seen also in the other nations, but their gigantic mass of limbs are in the noblest proportions. The form of the face is oval, the forehead arched, the nose straight, or curved, with rather wide nostrils,—the alæ, however, not projecting disagreeably; the mouth full, like that of the ancient Egyptians; the orifice of the ears large, and the temples a little depressed. The last we do not find in the Baràbras, and the races akin to them in Abyssinia. The men of Bari have, besides, well-proportioned legs, and muscular arms. It is a pity that they also extract the four lower incisors, for not only is the face disfigured by this custom when they are laughing, but their pronunciation also becomes indistinct. They differ, moreover, from the nations hitherto seen by having no holes in their ears for ornaments; and they do not tattoo themselves. Yet I remarked some who had incisions, as imaginary ornaments, on their shoulders: such exceptions may originate from the mothers being of another race. I have even seen in the land of Sudàn instances of a twofold genealogical table in the countenance, because the father and mother were of different nations. There appears to be no national custom with respect to wearing the hair long or short; but generally the hair is short, and not more woolly than that of the Baràbras and Arabs. On some there was none to be seen, and it appears either to be removed by a knife or a cauterising process, such as the women in the harìm use for other parts. Some wear their hair like a cock’s comb from the forehead down to the nape of the neck; others have scarcely the crown of the head covered: the most, however, wear tolerably long hair, in the natural manner, which gives a significant look to many faces. Their good-natured countenances correspond also to their jokes among themselves, which are, perhaps, occasionally directed against us. I have never been able to discover in the whole journey their reverence for our race and the god-like descent, much as this was asserted by Thibaut, who was with the first expedition.

It does not appear,—at least, we could not make out from them,—that they recognise one God as the essence of all that is good and beautiful, who punishes and rewards; but neither do they worship idols, for that, I believe, I have fully ascertained. They treat one another with frank brotherly love, stand embracing each other, divide the fruits given to them, assist in embarking and disembarking from the vessels to the shore; and all this in an affectionate manner. But yet they must have their peculiar ideas of friends and enemies, of injuries and revenge, and be drawn to commit acts, which we can scarcely imagine, when we see such an apparently harmless people of nature.

Skill in arms, which is generally not to be despised, is an accomplishment most desirable of all to a man living in a state of nature. The first things he seeks are weapons against the wild beasts; the fist, therefore, which Nature has given for seizing and striking, is used for this purpose. The first weapon is the club: even the poorest person here carries this instrument of defence. Then man learns to know the different arms of animals,—the eye, tooth, and the horn; therefore, we see here some of the clubs pointed at one end, in order to cut into the enemy’s ribs in case of necessity, directly the blow from it is parried by the shield or casque. The stone, used by monkeys, and especially by the large cynocephali, for defence, as I was convinced, perforce, in the country of the Troglodytes, among the rocks of Kàffela el Lus, and which the modern Greeks are especially expert in throwing, does not appear to be used here as an instrument of warfare. Iron spears and darts did not come till later, although they may have had them long previously of wood, such as we see even now. The most useful working implements, the knife, hatchet, &c., are next introduced; and from these also other weapons originate; the spear, not being fixed firmly on the shaft, became used as a two-edged knife, and the battle-axe might have followed the hatchet.

To speak of religious principles among these people would be out of place. Family love, the mutual living together, and the same customs and habits may form the basis of their moral principles, and be the first axiom of mutual forbearance. The first external sight which might produce, if not astonishment, at least a feeling of attachment and love, even to veneration, must be what makes a deep impression on the soul: for example, the sun and moon; or what gives sustenance, as the corn, for instance; or protection and comfort, as the shady tree, &c. The moon is, probably, in higher esteem here than the burning sun, although the latter was certainly very agreeable to the natives when they collected themselves before daybreak on the shore, and stood each by his little fire, kindled on account of the cold, and fed by the reed-stalks growing between their extended legs. I could not ascertain that there was such a veneration for these two heavenly bodies, nevertheless I believe as much from their expressions and narrations. Although these were only repeated to us in a fragmentary manner, and their explanation assisted by gestures, yet they shew that valour, like the virtus of the Romans, is the essence of all virtues, to which all others, springing from their pure uncorrupted nature, are subordinate.

The man wears the skin of the wild beasts he has slain, not as a covering, but as an ornament and triumphant spoil. If it were not so hot here, he would, like the ancient Germans, wear their scalp on his head as a war-cap. He carries the daring weapon of the wild boar killed by him—the tusk—upon a bracelet or frontlet. I saw also some wearing on the arm, as an ornament, an imitation of a boar’s tusk, made of ivory; and, as already mentioned, they have iron bulls’ horns on their bracelets. As the heads of these two animals so often appear as emblems in German escutcheons, so here also they are less considered as the memorials of dangers overcome than as signs of reverence or esteem of this valiant beast. If the rings with horns were more general, I should believe that, as the men on the White Stream display an uncommon love and affection for their cattle, they carried these horns, like the ancients did the phallus, as the attribute of fertility, unless the custom here had not the narrower signification of an Ethiopian Apis, or Father of Cattle.

In the meanwhile about fifteen hundred negroes may have been collected on the shore, not including those scattered on every side. They are armed without exception, and indeed with all their weapons,—a sight sending a thrill of horror through the veins of the Frenchmen and Turks, which is shewn plainly enough in various ways. They have only the consolation, and this ought to have prevented them before from feeling any fear at a danger not really existing—that we have, in truth, the grandees of the kingdom on board our vessels, and that they continue to be in the best humour, and certainly have no evil design, for Nature’s stamp imprinted on the human countenance cannot be deceptive here. Even Suliman Kashef has become quiet, and is perhaps turning over in his mind how he shall act in case of a sudden attack.

All the natives have set up their “hui ih!” several times, and at every time we stretch out our necks towards the neighbouring shore to see what is going on. This “hui ih” always resounds à tempo, as if at word of command; there must be therefore an analogous signal, though our ears cannot distinguish it over the water. It is a cry of joy intended for their Matta. We are still waiting for him, but in vain; and in the meantime we din the ears of our guests with drumming and fifing. They are also plied continually with sweets. Again and again they enjoy them, and do not prefer the sugar to the fruit, but eat slowly one after the other, as if they had been accustomed to them from youth upwards, and laugh and jest with us. We hear from them that the kingdom of Bari extends for four days’ journey down the river; that the latter is called, in their language, Tubirih, and has its origin at a long distance off, but they know not whether from the mountains or the valley. There are said to be several other nations on its shores,—a sign, perhaps, of the considerable distance of its sources. These tribes have also a different language, but there is no matta so powerful as Làkono; which saying, since we have been in the kingdom of Bari, they are never tired of repeating. The red Goliath lolls and stretches himself in the most comfortable manner, and the others also change their position from time to time, and do not remain, like pagodas or the Egyptian statues of kings, in the lazy repose called by the Turks kew. Dogalè is pleased at being measured; he is six feet six inches, Parisian measure, in height, with an unusual development in breadth, powerful shoulders, and a chest that might be used as an anvil. The two others, however, are not so large, although far overtopping us. The large brass bells, brought by us as presents for the cattle, pleased them very much, and they give us plainly to understand that they can hear the sound of such a bell at a distance.

We tell them that we want wood for our vessels; they shout to the people, but the latter appear to pay very little attention, or do not like to go away from our vessels, keeping a sharp look out on them, either from the interest of novelty, or in case of any future danger to their men; and perhaps, in this respect, they are not armed in vain. When our guests were repeatedly requested to procure wood, they tell us to fire among the people, even if we should kill a couple of men. They laugh whilst saying this, and it really appears that they do not believe in the possibility of shooting a man dead, and only wish to frighten their people by the report. They would have us, however, fire; and Selim Capitan therefore ordered his long gun to be handed him, and fired in the air close to them; they were dreadfully startled by the report, but immediately afterwards laughed, and wanted us to repeat it. This was done. I should have liked to have made a rough sketch of the group, but I was far too unwell, and very thankful even that I was able to sit, and write down on the spot what I heard and saw. A fine field was open here for a painter or sculptor; these colossal well-proportioned figures—no fat, all muscle—so that it was delightful to look at them, with the exception of the calves of their legs, which were formed like lumps of flesh. No beard is developed either in young or old, and yet it does not appear that they use a cosmetic to extirpate it. If Selim Capitan pleased them better with his smooth shaven chin, than the long-bearded Suliman Kashef, yet they exhibited a kind of horror when he shewed them his hairy breast, which perhaps appeared to them more fit for a beast than a man.

Therefore the supposition that they extract the four lower incisors not to be similar to beasts, has at least some apparent foundation, although the under jaw does not project, and, consequently, the lips are not made smaller by this extraction. Man here is always indeed elevated far above the beast, and needs, therefore, no such mutilation of the teeth. Our Dinkas, who themselves want the four lower incisors, have no other reason to allege for it, than that they do it to avoid the similarity to a beast, especially to the ass (Homàr), as is the general answer in Sennaar, to questions on this subject. The Turks take it for a kind of circumcision, just as we might suppose it meant a baptismal rite, being the sign of an act of incorporation by that means in a vast Ethiopian nation, divided now into several tribes. As this extraction of the teeth first takes place in boyhood, it might be considered to denote the commencement of manhood, and capability of bearing arms; but I have never heard of the ceremonies which would necessarily, if that were the fact, take place on the occasion. There is also another objection to this supposition, viz.,—that a similar operation is performed on the girls. With respect to the eyes, they are full and well formed, like those of all the negroes of the White River, but with a dirty yellow white, which, in the inhabitants of the marshes, is generally suffused with blood in a shocking manner.

At last then it was determined to fire off a cannon, to see what impression this thunder would make upon them. They sat upright upon their stools—off went the gun, and the princes nearly kissed the planks on the opposite side, as if they had been felled by a blow. They sat up, however, immediately again, laughing loudly all the time, and wanted us to fire again: their request was complied with, but they crouched down low again to the side, were uncommonly pleased, and requested one more repetition of this report. Not a negro, however, was to be seen on all the shore; and it was feared, with justice, that the Sultan, who could not be far off, might be struck by a panic and return: the firing was therefore discontinued.

Intelligence arrives that King Làkono will be with us about three o’clock in the afternoon; whereupon the blacks, being suitably clothed by us, and hung round with strings of beads, took their leave with the red Dogalè, all except Lombè, who is one of the king’s subjects, and a sheikh in a neighbouring district down the river. The latter is a very sensible, quiet man, with a more intellectual physiognomy than the others; the Turks give themselves all possible trouble to obtain information from him about the gold. He says that Mount Pelenja itself does not contain copper; that Làkono, however, has a good deal of copper in his house, brought from other mountains at a distance; that Làkono’s dress also came from this country, which is called Berri. Moreover, he took the gold bar shewn to him for a different species of copper; and, as he does not know how to distinguish gold, the latter may be found blended with copper in the royal treasury, and the mountains of Berri may be auriferous. The population is clearly very large, but he could not give us the number. He named several districts, part of which bore the names of the neighbouring mountains; and it almost seems to me as if there had been earlier independent tribes, who were first subdued by the great Làkono. He does not appear either to be a good royalist, and was evidently glad when the king’s sons had withdrawn; he then put on a familiar look, which their presence had hindered him from doing previously. There seems to be no doubt that this country is a central point of negro cultivation, although Berri and other succeeding countries, may be superior to the kingdom of Bari. I am curious about the Sultan’s dress. As Berri is said to lie to the east, perhaps it was not made there, but has come, by means of barter, from India. Lombè also went away richly decorated (for the Turks cannot contain themselves now at the idea of gold El Dahab), in order, probably, to meet the Sultan, or, perhaps, to get out of his sight with the treasures he had acquired.

I returned to my house, or rather my ship, to take my usual nap at noon; but the right shore being close at hand, separated only from our island by a narrow canal, obliges me almost immediately to rise again. The multifarious and manifold adorned and unadorned people afford a pleasing sight as I look at them from my windows. I view, as if from a box at the opera, the stage of black life on the whole length of the shore. Two women appear among the others; their anteriora and posteriora covered with two semicircular leathern aprons, tanned red, according to the usual custom here. One is coloured red from head to foot; the other has only her still youthful firm breasts and her head of that hue. She looks, therefore, as if she wore a black narrow jacket under the breasts, and breeches of the same colour under the red apron. She may have been surprised in her toilette by the news of our arrival, and have run off to the shore just as she was; the whole lower part of the body from the breasts downwards was tattooed in the manner customary on the White River.

Buying and bartering are going on; cheating and robbing—the latter, however, only on our side. My servants are on the shore, and making gestures and signs with their fingers, to know what they shall purchase for me of the national wares. I do not bargain in person, for I am afraid of the sun. The people, in spite of their good humour, are, as I have convinced myself here, surprisingly mistrustful. Goods and the price of their purchase, are exchanging hands simultaneously. As the people transact but little business among themselves, it is very natural and right that they should exercise precaution in their transactions with a foreign people like ourselves; and it is certain that we have given the first cause for suspicion.

As I said before, the hair is generally kept short; they decorate it, for want of something better, with a cock’s or guinea-fowl’s feather. A more elaborate coiffure is of black ostrich-feathers, placed together in a globular form, and the lower ends plaited, in a little basket, the thickness of a fist. This tress-work, holding the feathers, stands on the centre of the head, fastened by two strings round the neck, and appears pretty generally worn. Prince Dogalè also wore one, but of somewhat larger size. Some have their hair, which is tolerably long, smeared so thick with ochre, that merely little tufts are to be seen hanging about. Moreover, leather caps, fitting exactly to the skull, were worn with long or short tassels, hardly to be distinguished from the coloured hair. This antique kind of covering for the head, from which the Greeks and Romans formed their helmets, is similar, as regards form, to the modern fesi or tarbush and takië (the cotton under-cap worn under the Turkish knitting-worsted cap). They appear here to serve principally as a protection against the sun. It was only with difficulty that I could procure two different specimens, and the sellers pointed quite dolefully to the hot sun, when they bared their shaven heads.

Leathern strings, as also strings consisting of aglets, strung in a row, not made, as I thought at first, of conchylia, but of the shells of ostrich-eggs, were slung round their hips. Several of the latter strings, which are also much in request with the women in Belled Sudàn, and require laborious work, were purchased by the crew, and I got, also, specimens, but they were all, with one exception, immediately purloined. To my great astonishment, I saw subsequently in the Imperial Cabinet of Arts at Berlin, with which my Ethnographical collection is incorporated, a string exactly similar, which Mr. Von Olfers had brought from the Brazils. These strings wander, therefore, from the north of Africa to the west coast of that part of the globe, and from thence with the slaves to America, in the same way as they come from the other side to Sennaar by means of the slaves; or it may be, that they are made of the same size by the American savages. If the former be the case, this single fact would shew that there is a connection between the country of Bari and the Atlantic Ocean. I was told that the blacks break in pieces the ostrich-eggs, grind the fragments on a stone to a circular form of about two lines in diameter, and then string one lamina after another on a thread, to the length of several ells—a work which requires great patience.

Sometimes from mere stupid wantonness, shots were fired in the air from the vessels, and the natives disappeared from the shore for a short time, but returned directly that the report of the shots died away. Several women now approached, part of them decked with the before-named leathern apron, and part with a rahàt girded round their hips, as in the land of Sudàn. The threads hanging down from the girdle are not narrow slips of leather, such as those in Sennaar, but twisted cotton, and only the length of a finger. These scarcely form in front a light thread apron of a span in breadth, and leave the hips free, on which laces with tassels and small iron chains hang down, and a tuft falls down over the os sacrum, moving to and fro when they walk like an animal’s tail.

Now I see that the women wish to paint themselves, as I saw them before. There are two who have coloured their nipples and navels to the size of a dollar. The breasts are more rounded, and have not that horizontal conical form found in the black slaves of the land of Sudàn. I have already previously remarked that the women on the White Stream possess modesty in the concrete sense of the word; and though part of them are young and beautiful, but not tall, compared with the men, yet they regard these naked and magnificent manly forms without any immodest look; so, likewise, the men, kings of the world, gaze tranquilly upon the women. I am fully persuaded that, where woman bears in her mind the principle of the most necessary covering, naked truth is exactly the thing to keep up constantly a chaste as well as a decent relation between the sexes. Only give these women the deceits of the dress of European ladies, and clothe the men, and we shall see what will become of the blameless Ethiopians!

I am the more desirous to see continual repetitions of the sights peculiar to the land of Bari, because, by the festive occasion of the royal visit, these are multiplied in every form, and therefore I am still acquiring much knowledge. The square shields, about three feet long and two feet broad, with scallopped edges projecting into four sharp points, appear to be little used. They are of neat’s hide, and have a stick badly fixed in the centre to hold them by, the edge of which is not even turned to give a firmer hold. They have blue and red stripes crossed, each of a hand’s breadth, as their external decoration, and these are coloured with earth, so that they are easily obliterated. The Frenchmen made white stripes with chalk between these colours, and thus was the tricolour found in the middle of Africa. Whether the blue and red streaks serve as signs to distinguish one party from the other in warfare, I know not. Generally the men here carried round, high-arched hand-shields, a foot in length, made of very solid thick leather. These hand-shields appear now, and perhaps exclusively, adapted for warding off a blow with the clubs, for they would probably be of little avail as a protection against arrows and spears to such colossal bodies, in spite of all the dexterity of these men. Yet they gave me to understand previously, that they warded off hostile spears by means of these shields.

The boar’s tusks on the bracelets were mostly imitations of ivory, and therefore like the small iron bull’s horns, are perhaps symbols of valour and the power of nature. They had, besides, all kinds of knick-knackeries on the arm and neck, such as little tortoise-shells, dogs’ or monkeys’ teeth, entire strings of which even they wear, pieces of bones, &c. It struck me that little bones of this kind are either remembrances or amulets, from the circumstance of their always wishing to retain them when we had already purchased the articles to which they were fastened. The iron necklaces were of very different kinds: close to them were iron ornaments arranged in a row, in the form of a narrow leaf, or in small open spindles, from which little red fruits projected. I observed here also, the wide iron rings for the neck, of the thickness of a finger, which reach over the head, and down to the middle of the breast, and are not only worn in Khartùm, but also in Egypt, by the daughters of the Fellàhs. We here find an old fellow who will not sell his spear, the shaft of which is roughly wrought from iron, and who laughs at the sug-sug offered to him as idle toys.

I must break off for the moment from this subject, for a fresh clamour resounds, and the cry of “Hui, ih;” therefore away I go to Selim Capitan. We do not sit long with anxious curiosity, and look at the vacant carpet on which the great Matta was to recline, under the shade of the ship’s tent (Denda, perhaps derived from the Italian tenda, for a war-tent is called Gemma, and a shepherd’s-tent of straw-mats Birsh), for the sandal which had fetched the supreme chief from the right shore, arrives. The Melek or Sultan, as the Turks and Arabs call him, on account of his vast power, steps on our vessel, with a retinue of followers, part of whom we knew. The dress and coiffure distinguish his tall figure from all the others. Notwithstanding every one removed on one side, and we form a divàn upon cushions and chests around the carpet before the cabin, yet he treads upon the vessel with an insecure step, for he has his eyes directed towards us, and stumbles against the projecting foot of the gun-carriage. He carried his throne himself,—the little wooden stool, which we should call a foot-stool, and of which all make use; but he bore also an awful sceptre, consisting of a club: its thick knob was studded with large iron nails, to inspire greater respect.

At the Arabic invitation, “fadl ochaut,” accompanied by a motion of the hand, he took his seat on the oval and somewhat hollowed-out stool, of about one foot long, and three quarters of a foot broad. There is something naturally dignified in his countenance and bearing, without any assumption; he looks at the semicircle surrounding him, so that he may not do anything derogatory to his position as Sultan, seeking probably him who is pointed out as the matta, or whom he takes to be our matta. He then slides along to Selim Capitan, who might appear to him to be of that rank from his corpulence, takes his right hand, and sucks his finger-ends, which appears to me a humiliation. The large-bearded Suliman Kashef, vain and proud like all Circassians, wanted to have the same honour paid to him, and held out his fist with its powerful broad knuckles; but King Làkono was autocrat enough to conclude, from the principle of his sovereignty, that two mattas or monarchs could not be or exist by the side of one another. Selim Capitan, therefore, was to him the only real and supreme head of the foreigners, and he refused this homage in a very contemptuous manner to Suliman Kashef, who, contrary to his usual custom, was not arrayed in all his bravery to-day. In order not to make himself ridiculous, the latter suppressed the word “Kiàffar,” or “Abd,” which I saw was already trembling on his lips.

Làkono’s brother, and a couple of his suite, as also the Crown Prince Tshobè, whom we had not seen before, clearly endeavoured, without however throwing one glance of disapprobation at the old man, to repair this misunderstanding, occasioned by their peculiar etiquette, by paying all of us great lords the honour of finger-sucking. One thing was that the fingers could not be bitten off in this operation, owing to their lower teeth being wanting. As a testimony of welcoming and friendship, they stroked also our arms. They had not done this previously, perhaps because the king had not yet assured us of his favour.

That deliberations took place among the household of the king about the possible aim of our journey, may be presumed; both because the Sultan not only kept away for a long time, notwithstanding his residence was only three hours distant, but also from other indistinct intimations, and from the very intelligible previous warning, that we were to remain on the right shore, at the original landing-place, because the Matta would not allow us to move any further. Of course we did not take any notice of this warning, and would not understand it. Perhaps the white faces of another world, our vessels larger than their palaces, in which we go up the river without oars, when the wind is favourable, and especially the thunder and explosion of our cannons and guns, might have been the principal motive that induced the wise council to come to the reasonable opinion that it would be a ticklish affair to spit us like bats, or to kill us like dogs with clubs.

When we little expected it, the Sultan raised his voice, without commanding silentium beforehand with his sceptre, and sang—his eyes directed firmly and shining on us—a song of welcome, with a strong, clear voice. This was soon ended, and the song had brightened him up surprisingly, for he looked quite merrily around, as far as his eyes, which were apparently effected by a cataract, would allow him. This misfortune might be the cause also why he walked, as if in a mist, with an insecure step on the vessel. According to the translation passed by two interpreters from one to the other into Arabic, he chanted us as being bulls, lions, and defenders of the Penates (Tiràn, Sing Tor, Assad and Aguàn el bennàt).

He is of an imposing figure, with a regular countenance, marked features, and has somewhat of a Roman nose. We noticed on all the bare parts of his body remains of ochre, apparently not agreeing very well with the skin, for here and there on the hands it was cracked. He was the first man whom we had hitherto found clothed.

His temples are slightly depressed; on his head he wore a high bonnet, in the form of a bear-skin cap, covered over and over with black ostrich-feathers, which were fixed inside by an oval net-work. His feather-tiara was fastened under his chin by two straps; two other stiff red straps, with small leather tufts, projected like horns over both temples; these horns denote here, perhaps, the royal dignity, like the caps of horns (Takië betal Gorn) of the Moluks, in Belled-Sudàn, and may be an imitation of Ammon, or of Moyses. He shook his cap very often in real pleasure. A long and wide blue cotton shirt, with long open sleeves, lined inside with white cotton, reached down to the feet from the throat, where it was hollowed out round, and had a red border. A large blue and white chequered cotton band, bound round the hips, held this dress together. He wore round the neck strings of blue glass paste, and rings of thin twisted iron wire. The feet were covered with well-worked red sandals, of thick leather. Bright polished iron rings, the thickness of the little finger, reached from the ankles to the calf, exactly fitting to the flesh, and increasing in size as they went up the leg. Above these he wore another serrated ring, and a thin chain. The knuckles of the right hand were surrounded with an iron and a red copper ring, of twisted work. On the left hand he had a prettily decorated yellow copper ring, with a dozen narrow iron rings, likewise fitted exactly to the arm. As we subsequently saw, the upper part of both arms was surrounded with two heavy ivory rings, of a hand’s breadth. Contrary to the usual custom, he had also the four lower incisors; we could not ascertain the cause of this distinction, and at our question on the subject, he only answered with a cunning laugh. I soon remarked, moreover, that he wanted the upper teeth; yet he may have lost them from old age, for want of teeth is common even among these people, and he might have numbered some sixty years.

This want of sound teeth—as negroes are always distinguished for good teeth, and the marshy soil has entirely ceased in the country of Bari—may perhaps only arise from eating some fruit unknown to us, such as the cassavas in Guiana, which have the same effect; or the reason for it may be sought in their pulling them out directly they pain them, with their iron instruments, always at hand. The constant smoking of their very strong tobacco, with the absence of cleanliness, which, however, is not the case with our Nuba negroes, may contribute to this imperfection. At first he smoked the cigar given him, and then the Turkish pipe, with the air of an old smoker; for smoking is a general custom among the nations on the White Nile. Dates were set before him, and the others picked him out the best, and breaking them in two, laid the stones in a heap, and gave him the fruit in his hand, partaking of them with him.

The music which had accompanied him to the shore, and embarked on board the vessel, consisted of a drum, made out of the trunk of a tree, and beaten with sticks, a kind of clarionet, and a fife, different only from the small ones worn by all the natives round their necks by being three or four times larger. King Làkono’s dress and copper rings came from the country of Berri; this was a confirmation of what we had already heard. He had never seen horses, asses, or camels, and it seemed as if there were no words in his language to denote them; nor did he know of an unicorn, and did not understand our explanation of these animals. If the Arabs in the land of Sudàn do not deny the existence of the unicorn in the interior of Africa, and even assert that there are some, if the subject be followed up further, this arises from politeness, in order that they may correspond with our desire to prove the real existence of such an animal and is not what they know to be truth.

Làkono made himself comfortable afterwards, and sat down upon the carpet, moving his little stool under his shoulders. A red upper garment was fetched, and the Turks made him comprehend that he must stand up to have it put on. They bound a white shawl round his ribs, and another was twisted round his head, as a turban, after they had clapped on him a tarbusch. On this, one of the two slaves who accompanied him placed on his own head the royal feather-cap, and laughed behind his master’s back. This only lasted, however, a minute, though the others took no offence at it. The dress altogether, was found to be too short and scanty for such limbs. Several strings of beads were hung round Làkono’s neck, and several more piled up before him, to take to his wives; hereupon he could rest no longer, and went off, followed by all the others.

He was taken back by the sandal to the right shore, where his people shouted to him a “hui ih!” and afforded him an assisting hand when disembarking from the vessel, as well as on the shore itself, according to the usual practice among themselves. We fired off cannons in honour to him, as soon as he set foot on land. Fear thrilled through them all, and even the Sultan set off running for a moment, till he was disabused of his panic, probably by his brothers.

CHAPTER III.

MIMOSAS AND TAMARIND-TREES. — DIFFERENT SPECIES. — DURRA AND CREEPING BEANS. — RELIGION OF THE ETHIOPIANS. — SECOND VISIT OF LÀKONO. — THE CROWN-PRINCE TSHOBÈ. — PARTICULARS OF THE COUNTRIES OF BARI AND BERRI. — DESCRIPTION OF LÀKONO’S FAVOURITE SULTANA. — MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BARI. — THEIR FORM AND DISTANCE. — ISLAND OF TSCHANKER. — REMARKS ON LÀKONO’S LEGISLATION AND CONDUCT. — THE NJAM-NJAM, OR CANNIBALS. — CUSTOMS AND ARMS OF THE NATIVES. — THE TROPICAL RAINS.

25th January.—At eleven o’clock we leave our island at the right shore, and halt towards the south, for the north-east wind is favourable to us. On the right and left are several little villages, and on the right shore a low foreland, which we had already visited and found very fertile. Several poison-trees stand near the village lying in the background. The bushàr and garrua have not left us, but cover the greatest part of the shore, where the thorn-bushes appear to diminish, the nearer we approach the equator. We remark the very same circumstance with respect to the mimosas, and in those that we still here and there see, the leaves are broader and seem to announce varieties or different species. Even the tamarind-tree, from which we have already gathered ripe fruit, has a different physiognomy here to what we see in the country of the Shilluks; the branches are more slender, and the larger leaves are not so thickly piled one upon the other. I was laughed at by my servant when I asked the name of this tree.

We sail along the left shore, and advance three miles and a half; but one ship soon gets obstructed here, another there, and the water-track pointed out to us by the natives is really very narrow. The stream, which might previously have been about three hundred paces, is here certainly five hundred. A large island, with another smaller one, covered with durra, rises out of it. At one o’clock S.S.W., in which direction we sail now at the right shore, where the water is better than we had thought. The negroes continue to run along the shore, or in the shallow places plunge into the water, and cry as loud as they can to us to stop a little and barter with them. The right shore is planted with durra, but it is already harvested. It is a small reddish kind, giving but little meal. At the previous landing-places there were, amongst other plants, several small creeping beans, of white and red colour, thriving luxuriantly on the ground. A small island on our left.

I hear, from the mast, that nineteen mountains (gùbàl) are counted, without reckoning the small ones. The chain of mountains is, properly speaking, not wooded; but that which looks like a forest, from a distance is, in reality, the fragments of rocks, with which they are nearly all studded at the base: yet between these blocks a tree and copsewood here and there thrives, which may sprout out beautifully green in the rainy season. A splendid ground, covered with trees, and inclined towards the river, approaches to the foot of the Korek, but does not probably afford the shade we suppose at a distance. The shores are not only very strongly intersected with layers of sand, but also the mould of the dam itself is completely mixed with sand. Therefore it seems that the river enters now into a rocky bed, from the mountains of which there is not much fertility to wash away.

Two o’clock; W. by S. On the left shore again, several of those round-headed beautiful trees, with large acacia-leaves, under which the negroes seek for shade. The Frenchmen had, according to yesterday’s measuring, 4° 40′ north latitude, and 41° 42′ east longitude, from Paris. Selim-Capitan, however, found 4° 35′ north latitude, and 30° east longitude. At half-past two o’clock we go with the river S.S.W., which direction it seems to retain for the present. On the left an island. The people still continue to shout, but they run no longer, as if they were mad, into the water, to cling to and hold fast to the vessels, for the sailors rap their fingers smartly; but stand quietly on one foot, resting the other against the knee. Three o’clock; S.S.W. The water is not bad, and we shall have, perhaps, a good course for a considerable time, if we only sound properly. On the right there is a small island, with a couple of tokuls behind upon the shore. Immediately on the left is another shallow island, with luxuriant durra. The natives wade through the water to an island situated not far from the left shore, upon which we see a farmyard. Two more islands follow this one, and they swarm with black people. Four o’clock. The direction of the river is always still S.W., whilst we seek for deeper water in the windings of the stream. Right and left are islands, and also tokuls, part of which peep over the trees. The forms of the mountains become more visible and different from what they had hitherto appeared. This produces uncommon changes in the landscape, where all the surface of the earth is picturesquely skirted with trees.

Who would have thought of such a beautiful country in the centre of Africa, and looked for such a well-proportioned, gigantic race as we see yonder! They are real giants. Go on shore, look at the Turks, the Christians, and our other companions,—what children they seem standing in the middle of this crowd of Titans. Half-past four o’clock. Rocks shew themselves, for the first time, in the river. Three large, and several small ones form an ominous crossline for our voyage. At five o’clock we halt at an island near these rocks. Here there are picturesque materials enough, and nothing shall prevent me from taking a panorama of this region.

The people appear to be favoured of God as of heaven itself. The sun and moon do not appear to excite any unusual ideas here, although the former may be welcome in the morning, when they shake off the night’s frost with the ashes, and in the evening to light them when they return from the chase, from labour in the fields, and from battle, or when they drive home their herds. The moon is of less service to them, for they go to roost with the fowls. The beneficent deeds of these two luminaries are too regular. But the canopy of heaven itself may direct their thoughts above; from thence comes the rain, irrigating their fields, causing the stream to increase, filling and animating anew their large fish-ponds. God’s water is allowed to flow over God’s land, and they are pleased at the cheerful harvest, without praying, beseeching, and returning thanks, for they may look upon periodical rain as a regular tribute from above. Heaven does not forsake her people here, and the inexorable sun, parching up everything, has perhaps never been worshipped by the Ethiopians.

We lie now to the eastern side of the island of Tshànker. King Làkono visited us to-day a second time, and brought with him a young wife from his harìm. He took off his hand the orange-coloured ring, on which Selim Capitan fixed a longing eye, and presented it to him with a little iron stool, plainly forged in a hurry. The Crown-prince, Tshobè, has a very intelligent countenance, and seems to me to be a clever fellow. He wears no ornament on the upper part of his arms, except the two large ivory rings. Although it was known that he would succeed King Làkono, and that the latter had called him his eldest son and successor, yet the Turks believed that he was some relation of the king’s, whom he had only brought with him to receive presents. I had, however, previously seen him with us, and remarked at that time that he kept back proudly when the others stepped forward for our gifts. But Làkono had only presented us with two oxen, and given us a verbal mandate to the republicans of the left shore; therefore, the Turks were discontented. Against all policy, the honour of a Turkish coronation-mantle was not conferred upon Tshobè, nor on the others who might have expected a dress. The prince took the miserable glass beads with a kind of indifference and contempt.

We gathered further intelligence about the country, and Làkono was complaisant enough to communicate to us some general information. With respect to the Nile sources, we learn that it requires a month, the signification of which was interpreted by thirty days, to come to the country of Anjan towards the south, where the Tubirih (Bah’r el Abiad) separates into four shallow arms, and the water only reaches up to the ankles. Thirty days seems indeed a long time, but the chain of mountains itself may present great impediments, and hostile tribes and the hospice stations may cause circuitous routes. These latter appear necessary, for the natives being already overladen with weapons and ornaments, it is impossible that they can carry provisions for so long a time, from the want of beasts of burden. There are said to be found very high mountains on this side, in comparison with which the ones now before us are nothing at all.

Làkono did not seem, according to my views, to understand rightly the question, whether snow was lying on these mountains. He answered, however, No. Now, when I consider the thing more closely, it is a great question to me whether he and his interpreter have a word for snow; for though the Arabic word telki or snow is known perhaps in the whole land of Sudàn, yet that itself is unknown. Whether these four brooks forming the White Stream come from rocks or from the ground, Làkono could not say for he had not gone further. With respect to the country of Berri, which he stated in his first visit was likewise a month distant, Làkono now corrected himself and said that this country is not thirty, but only ten days’ journey off to the east. He impressed on us particularly that copper is as abundant, and found there in the same manner as iron here. He appears, indeed, to wish to inflame our gold-seeking hearts by his repeated commendations of this country, on purpose that he may get possession, at one blow, of the treasures, with the assistance of our fire-arms. He expected an answer which could not be given him, because the Dinkaui, who translated his words into Arabic, only told us (according to my full conviction) what he chose to let us know, most probably being induced by the other soldiers and sailors to do everything he could for our speedy return.

We also heard that on the road water is found, but that in Berri itself there is no river, and that the natives drink from springs (Birr). The people of Bari get their salt, which is quite clear and fine-grained, from thence. It is boiled in earthen pots, and retains their form. The language of the country of Berri is different from that of Bari. The blue beads, in the form of little cylinders, which we saw on Làkono and some others, and had even found previously, came also from Berri. We had similar-formed glass paste, of white and blue colours; but the higher value was set on the blue, and on the large, round, blue beads.

Commercial intercourse in Berri does not seem to be carried on in a very peaceful manner, according to what we had heard previously, and also now from some of the King’s companions; for it is boasted that on the way home copper is plundered from the people on the road, with whom they take up their quarters, and who have it piled up in their houses. They say that the men on the copper mountains are a very bad set; and that therefore they are obliged to take from them again the spears which they had given them for copper. In Berri also the people go naked, and there are few dresses such as Làkono possesses. The latter asserts that his dominion reaches seven days’ journey further up the river. Much might be learnt if there were more order, on our side, in the questions; but they are jumbled up one with the other, and asked more for amusement than for scientific interests, without once reflecting whether the answer corresponds to the question or not.

The favourite Sultana had certainly not much to boast of in the way of beauty, but she was an amiable looking woman: she was not at all shy, and looked freely around her. A number of glass beads were given to her, and she was too much of a woman and negress not to be exceedingly delighted at them. Làkono restrained himself, as at the first time, on the sight of such presents, within the limits of pleasing surprise, without betraying the least symptom of the childish joy which is indigenous in these men of nature. She was, however, very cordial with him, and he with her; he helped her even to pack together her ornaments in a handkerchief, and gave it over to her with a benevolent look. I had the honour also of a friendly smile from her, which I naturally returned. She remarked this immediately to her lord and master, whereupon the latter bowed his entire approbation, and smiled at me.

This queen was very simply adorned for her rank. Her head was shaven quite bare, without a diadem and other ornaments; her hair, the embellishment of woman, was therefore put to the sword, and with it also the first advantageous impression, even if the nose had not been slightly turned in. She was simply clothed with two leathern aprons, under which, through her continually shifting her seat, I caught sight of a rahàt. A number of polished iron rings were spread over the joints of her hands and feet. A narrow ring of ivory was on the upper part of each arm; and around the neck a large iron ring, from which a great tooth, a flat little bell, and some other knick-knackeries of iron, hung down to her breasts, which are already tolerably withered, for she has probably borne children. She had red sandals on the feet, with little iron rings on them as ornaments. All the under part of the body was tattooed—this may be the sign of a foreign race; the nose also is of a different stamp to those in Bari. The root of the nose is certainly strongly depressed in these women, of whom I saw yesterday also some specimens, so that it forms, with the arched forehead, not an unpleasing waved line, terminating in a saucy point, without the latter becoming a flat knob. If we could have put into the mouth, where the four lower incisors also were wanting, a ducat, or perhaps a dollar, the teeth would not then have projected in the negro manner, and those blubber lips would not have been at all noticed.

The skull, throughout Bari, is not generally pressed back like that of animals, to the occiput, although the latter is strongly developed. I find, however, no difference in the form of our Egyptian thick heads directly they take off their tarbusch. The fluidum primordiale of the Barian power of creation must therefore have worked, in this mountain-land, with the same noble power as that of the land of Kashmire.

In other respects our queen was well formed, and the calves of her legs projected tolerably stoutly over the iron rings. Even in Germany she would have been considered one of the tallest of her sex, and here also her size would be surprising if she wore a long dress. She was at least five and a half Rhenish feet high, for she looked very comfortably over my head. On this occasion I discovered remains of ochre in her close-cut hair, a sign that she does not use soap. Her name is Ishòk; she could scarcely keep herself from laughing, and appeared to be very much flattered when she heard her charming name repeated by us several times. Làkono and his queen had brought a doll, representing a woman, hewn roughly from wood, as a present, which turned out, contrary to our expectation, to be only a doll; for they laughed immensely when we asked them whether they worshipped or adored it as a deity.

We could not get a clear conception of their ideas of religion—the less so, because the Tershomàn translating into Arabic was a heathen Dinkaui. It seems that they worship a spirit of nature, for we had been previously told that their god was grander than the mast of our vessel. Whether they reverence him under a tree, as the criminal court of Làkono seems to denote, is a question I do not venture to decide. Horns, teeth, and amulets point to some sort of worship.

Without troubling himself further with farewell ceremonies, Làkono rose with his men; but his wife had previously looked at the carpet, gave him a friendly dig in the ribs, and whispered a few words to him. The great king did not wait for this being said twice; he seized the end of the carpet, and gave it over, without further ceremony, to the slave close at hand. This carpet belonged, however, to Rassulla Effendi, who was the maùhn, or scribe, to Selim Capitan, and a Persian by birth. He drew a long face on seeing these proceedings, but was consoled with the promise of another new carpet, and the whole thing was laughed at as an ingenious trick.

A panorama, to which, however, the neighbourhood of beautiful mountain-forms lends the true charm, opens from the Island of Tshànker. Opposite to us, on the right shore, we see the village of Wuàlana, and before it lies a shallow island, called Koriana; on the right shore lie, at a short distance from it, the villages of Harikono and Amrit. The houses of the villages are tokuls, part of them having higher pointed roofs. Shady trees stand around, and the copsewood enjoys such a verdant life that we might fancy ourselves in a northern region.

The mountains lie around in the following direction: Mount Lof-et rises behind Mount Pelenjà, to S.E. by E., at a distance of about four hours, like an isolated mountain of small height. Mount Pelenjà, to S.E., in tolerable extent, from its peak about eight hundred feet high, S.E., 60″ to S. and 75″ to E., some three hours distant, a small mountain group of a rocky nature, and partly wooded, completely secluded. The mountain chain of Logojà, where cannibals dwell, the anterior peak of which seems to project to N., rises at a distance of from eight to nine hours, to a height like that of the seven hills seen from Cologne, with a lofty back, which appears, so far as it is not concealed from the eye by the mountains lying before it right and left, to extend from S.E. southerly 60″ long. The Hill of Liènajin, or Linanzin, a gently rising rock, covered with bushes, towards S.E. 50″ to S., distant an hour and a half. The still smaller rocks of Arlu, to S.E. by S., two hours distant; the rocks of Luluri or Lullulù to S.E. 30″ to S., one hour and a half. In the S. rises Mount Lugi, smoothed at the top, with precipitous disrupt walls of rock, which does not appear to exceed Korèk in height, and may have six hundred feet relative height. The river winds a little to the W. around its base, and this mountain may once have formed a terrace, which has joined to the mountain chain of Kàlleri, lying behind to S.S.E., forming as it were the foot to the mass of mountains rising up in the S. We see on the unevenly elevated rocky wall of Kàlleri, the dry bed of a cataract, to which even the natives drew our attention.

COUNTRY ON THE RIGHT SHORE OF THE NILE FROM THE ISLAND OF TSHANKER, TOWARDS SOUTH-EAST.—27TH JANUARY, 1841.

All these mountains and rocky hills lie on the right side of the river. This coincides with what has been said to us previously, and the plastic formation of the mountains themselves shews that the river does not break through from E. or S.E., and the natives are right when they place the sources of the White Stream to the south. On the left side of the river rises first, S.W. 3″ to W., Mount Lòngi, at two hours distant; Mount Lobèk, with a rocky head S.W. 28″ to W., three hours; the flat, round Loffoni S.W. 30″ to W. four hours; Mount Bio S.W. 60″ to W., some eight hours distant, ascending again to a considerable height; Mount Korèk, already known to us, on the ground softly rising from the river; it is one hour and a half from the river, entirely of a rocky nature, intersected in manifold parts by steep disrupt walls of rocks, similar to quarries. All its peaks not only lie in the distance, where the whole mountain appears like a terrace, but also near at hand, in equal horizontal lines, from W. to 75″ to N. It is perhaps not more than six hundred feet high, and it is the mountain that principally affords iron, although all the heights are said to contain the same.

As I distinguished previously Mount Nerkanjin on the left side of the Nile, by its height, so the mountains seem to increase generally on this side in height, as also the country from the shore to S.W. gradually ascends. Mount Konnopi or Kunobih appears W. by N., at a distance of from nine to ten hours, of light-coloured rocks, without any vegetation. It forms likewise a mountain group, with its six or seven peaks, which fall away tolerably steeply in convex lines, and separate one from the other. The high points of this group are of equal form, and may rise to two hundred feet relative height. Behind this mountain and Korèk, a mountain-chain projecting on both sides of Korèk, which stretches itself for about an hour in length, extends in an undulating form, and loses itself to S. This chain is called Kugelù, and I calculate its distance at being at least twenty hours. To N.W. 73″ towards N. lies Mount Lokùn, about two to two and a half hours distant, with a gentle slope of small height, and to N. the Nerkanjin already known to us, some eight to nine hours distant.

If we only consider the situation of these mountains generally, and the evidence of the natives with reference to the origin of the White Stream, who, from the moment that they stated the iron came from the mountains in the south (where we had already hoped for mountains), shewed their accurate knowledge of locality, and who here, also, transfer the sources of the White arm of the Nile from the foot of the mountain land further to the south, every doubt must be removed by the agreement of these expressions. Even among us the opinion was prevalent that the sources of the Nile should be sought to the east in a ramification of the Abyssinian chain of high mountains. We have therefore made close inquiries, whether any running water were existing on this side, and learned that there is not; for the people in that part, drink, on the contrary, from springs. Nature seems here to have formed, generally, to the east, as well as to the west, a watershed.[2]

In S.E. Mount Logojà is seen, at a distance of eight to nine hours, a chain of mountains stretching from E. to S.; in the west rises Mount Kugelù, twenty hours off, like a long serpentine track, which must be in proportion to the presumed distance, as also its height to the near rocky mountains of considerable elevation, and seems to extend likewise to the south. Both mountain chains may, in consequence of these exterior plastic proportions, rise up like branches to the mighty trunk of mountains in the south, as the natives on the Island of Tshànker endeavoured to shew me when I was sketching, by uttering names and making unmistakable gestures. This mountain-stock, perhaps a second Himalaya, may form the combination of streams of the White Nile between these its sides. The river here formerly broke violently through its projecting base—isolated Mount Lugi, which is like a half demolished pyramid, and rushed down over it like a powerful waterfall.

Selim Capitan made three observations upon the Island of Tshànker, and the northern latitude was confirmed as 4° 30″. The stream, having a direction to S.S.W., is found to be three hundred mètres[3] broad, from the island to the right shore. The two arms of the river may amount to something over one hundred mètres from the island to the left shore, before which another little island lies. A rocky bar of gneiss extends here from E. to W. right across the stream, and continues beyond the islands, the highest points of which it forms, to the left shore, where we may follow the traces of this rocky bank to a still greater distance, for it projects in a slight breadth over the ascending grounds. This reef, running from E. to W. which may give the direction of the succeeding chasms in the valley broken through by the stream, rises in the middle of the river to a larger rock, and other blocks peep out of the water towards the right shore, whilst the other rocky part towards the Island of Tshànker is only superficially covered by water. The current gushes by the before-named rocks as at the Bingen Loch,[4] and it is only there where we may expect to find a passage.

Our Arabs are glad at this tschellàl, as they call a waterfall, or even a current, and want to take it immediately for an insurmountable wall, even before sounding the passage. The conchylia, similar to oysters, clinging to these gneiss rocks, are the thorn-muscles, which are found also at the cataracts in Nubia (Etheria tubifera). By mistake, I previously called these muscles ampulla tubulosa.[5] Besides the snails mentioned on a former occasion, I found on the shores of the White Stream the large water-snails (ampullaria ovata var.), as well as the muscles (Iridina rubens, and Anodonta acuta).

The specimens of sand I brought back with me, and which were subjected to an examination in Berlin, with my other geognostical collections, have been already defined by Dr. Girard, in C. Ritters’ “Glance at the Source-Territory of the Nile.”

He says:—“A sand from the shore of the Bahr-el-Abiad, in the kingdom of Bari, is similar to this sand (from the Sobàt river), only a little coarser in the grain, which, however, is only at the most of the size of millet-grain: it contains principally quartz, but more mica than the former, and has considerably more of those black grains, from which we see that it is horn-blende. This is either derived from syenite and diorite masses, as they often appear in gneiss and mica-slate mountains, or they might be also of volcanic origin, for the lava of the Gebl Defafaungh lying to the north boundary of these plains, contains the same in great abundance.” With respect to the constituent part of the rocks of this cataract, Dr. Girard observes:—“It is gneiss, consisting of white feldspar, and a good deal of white mica, and mica-slate, containing much granular, brittle, white and yellow quartz, no feld-spar, and small scaly black mica.”

The island of Tshànker, on which I planted a number of palm-seeds, rises, with reference to the back of the surface of the earth, fifteen feet high above the present water-mark. The natives could not have been able to have sown the ground, which is strongly mixed with sand, with the simsim (sesame), a grass particularly requiring moisture, if the water of the swollen river had not remained upon it for some time. In accordance with that, the chain of mountains must have discharged an immense body of water during the rainy season, for the island appears to me to lie somewhat higher than either of the shores, and the high water overflows therefore not only this island, but also a great part of the shores which are separated about six hundred mètres from each other. From this cause arise the beautiful green trees, and the verdant low country lying back, from which ephemeral shallow lakes the water seems to be drawn off by canals. Like Oases (Arabic Oà), they lie there in a level land, which is parched up far and wide.

Legislation appears to be in a peculiar state in the country of Bari. We were told that King Làkono slew criminals with his own hand, by a thrust with a spear, and very quickly (goàm, goàm), without any ceremonies; he sits under a large tree, with a heavy spear in his hand, to pass judgment, and assumes a very angry look. Perhaps the great spirit of the tree may inspire him on such a presidency, or rather his own feeling of justice may cause this righteous anger, and make him the supreme judge and executioner of the misdoer, the latter being devoted also to death by the unanimous will of the assembly. Priests or sorcerers do not appear to be assembled at these public sittings in judgment, which remind us of the ancient German institutions, because not a trace has been found, so far as I know, of any such men among these people. The great king, therefore, does not crack the criminal’s skull with the club-sceptre he usually carries, as I imagined on his first visit; but the very same views of a death without dishonour seem to prevail here as among the Shilluks, who do not slay the Arabs taken prisoners by them with the honourable spear, but beat them to death like a dog with the hassaie.

The innate respect towards the king is, however, greater perhaps than the royal power. This may mostly be reduced to the gigantic limbs of his family and all his adherents, amongst whom the heads of tribes subject to him, may be numbered, who stand around his free stool as judges armed, although not voting, maintaining order, and easily defeating his solitary antagonists, with their heavy sceptres of ebony, like constables’ staves.

It is evident that he has opponents, and indeed not a few, from the circumstance that he requested us to shoot some people on the left shore, because they were always making war on those of the right shore. It might therefore seem quite right to him that several of the inhabitants of that side were shot down a few days ago, in so shameful a manner, from our vessels. His statements of the hostile feelings of the men there does not appear, however, to be founded on truth, for we have seen several times herds of cattle swimming over from one shore to the other, without any robbery and contention taking place in consequence. On a closer inquiry, his main grievance was unbosomed; for two years he had not received anything from the people of the left shore. This was interpreted, consonant to Turkish views, to mean Tulba (tribute); it seems to me, however, to denote rather a voluntary contribution, because he complained at the same time, that he had nothing to live upon, and therefore was not able to give us anything.

King Làkono had a very sound understanding, and contrived skilfully to evade the demand for meat, and the desire expressed to visit him at his residence; for the Turks wanted to make a closer inspection of his treasures, since gold was said to be among them. He always affirmed that we should be obliged, in paying such a return visit, to swim through a deep gohr, although we had been previously told that he possessed a large and handsome sürtuk, in which he plies far up and down the river. Our sandal, which appeared to him probably more fitted for use than his own hewn-out trunk of a tree, pleased him so well, that he asked it as a present. Of course we were obliged to refuse him; for this little skiff was quite indispensable to us for communication. It was promised that a far handsomer vessel should be built for him at Marseilles—a white lie, with which he did not seem to be content. It was tolerably plain, from the badly translated expressions of these lords of Bari, and still more from the far more intelligible language of signs, of which they were not sparing, that they were perfectly conscious of their superiority in force; for they signified, with ironical laughter, that they could easily take our sandal by force, because it was the smallest of our vessels.

Although Làkono seemed not to have expected such an answer from us, and to be offended at it, yet he did not relinquish his plans of conquest and booty, in which we were to assist him. He wished not only to undertake a warlike expedition, in company with us, to Berri, so rich in copper, but also to the neighbouring mountain-chain of Logajà (also Lokonjà). The cannibals dwelling upon this mountain—not known here, however, by the name of Njam-Njam—had been long the subject of conversation among the crew. According to what we heard from the natives below, these ill-famed mountaineers had heads, and went on all-fours like dogs; this was repeated also, even in Bari, probably from our misunderstanding the language.

Captain Selim, the Muscovite, to whom courage could not be denied in other respects, had, even in Khartùm, been wonderfully afraid of these so-called Njam-Njams. Now, however, he allowed his fear to mount to a truly ridiculous height, probably because he was the most corpulent of us all, except Selim-Capitan. He thought nothing less than that he would be the first roast morsel which that savage mountain-race would choose for a feast, on a favourable nocturnal opportunity. Before the first expedition, my brother had designated him a plump morsel (kabàb semmin) for the cannibals; and scarcely was he summoned to this expedition than he inquired repeatedly and anxiously about the existence and the abode of these men. This joke was now haunting his brains, and particularly when his fat face was lighted up by the enjoyment of araki, which he drank secretly in his cabin, in order not to let the others partake of it. In such a condition as this, he exhorted me to assist in urging as speedy a return as possible; and, moreover, to think of my poor brother Jussùf, who perhaps was ill.

Làkono, explained, on closer questioning, the ominous rumour of the Anthropophagi, with dogs’ heads, and informed us that these bad people have heads indeed, like others, but allow all their teeth to remain in their head, and crawl upon all-fours when they eat men. This means, perhaps, nothing more than that they do not join in open combat with the inhabitants of Bari, but crawl close to people, like dogs, plunder them, and perhaps eat them. The Baghàras assert, that the same custom of crawling, in marauding expeditions, exists among the Shilluks; and our Circassians relate things, which are scarcely credible, of the manner in which boys and girls are caught in their country.

It was confirmed here what we had previously heard, viz. that brothers do not marry sisters, nor fathers daughters; they were indignant, and with reason, at such a question. The bride is purchased from the father for sixty to seventy oxen: this price might be called dear, in spite of the numerous herds of cattle here; yet it counteracts polygamy and the enfeeblement of race thereby produced, as much as the forbidding of marriage among blood relations. The release of a prisoner costs only thirty oxen, whence we might conclude that their wars, which they appear to carry on only by the river’s side, are not very barbarous. Besides, their spears confirm this supposition, for they are ground off to a smooth edge, and have no barbs such as those of the people of the mountains in these regions, and in the land of Sudàn.

The spears with barbs found amongst them, have been either received in exchange, having been thrown by the mountaineers in the mutual feuds, or they have been forged by themselves for the chase, to cast at the wild deer when they hunt them to death. The poisoning of arrows, with their various barbs, is certainly against this humane view of the character of the people. They warned us of poison every time we purchased arrows, yet I found a quantity among them not poisoned. It may therefore be usual to use the latter only in war, because otherwise they would poison their spears; whilst they shoot the deer with the former, without the poison perhaps exercising any effect when the flesh is eaten—as Shömburg says, is also the case in Guiana. They bury their dead in a recumbent posture, and far away from their huts or tokuls.

According to Làkono and his relations, the rainy season will set in, in two months from the present time, (therefore at the end of March, or beginning of April.) This appears, in truth, somewhat late: for the two arms of the Nile, near Khartùm, begin to ascend nearly simultaneously on the 2nd or 3rd of May, and it is impossible that even one drop of these first rains in the high land, which the thirsty soil, moreover, immediately absorbs, and which are swallowed up by a course in a long valley-land, should reach Khartùm from hence in so short a time. The regions lying lower, and subject to the tropical rains, are the cause perhaps of the first swellings to the White Stream; for, before all those numerous low grounds and shallow lakes are full, the eventual connections with the more distant inner waters, are restored and overflow. Much more time is required for this than for the effusion of the mountain waters, near the sloping rocky ground lying before us.

If we should not, however, take the nearer district of the tropical rains as an explanation of the simultaneous swelling of both arms of the Nile near Khartùm, we could not explain this phenomenon, for the mountain waters of the White Stream must, though with a far slower course, make three times as long a way as those of the Blue Nile, in just the same time. A difference is consequently seen at Khartùm at high water, which, however, soon becomes equal, from the mutual pouring into each other of the arms, or by the damming up of the tributary streams.

Fadl is my faithful confidant in purchasing the curiosities of the country; he is slow and painstaking in a negotiation, when I immediately lose my patience. He first, for a long time, squats, as he used to do in the land of Sudàn, with the people here; plays with the glass beads,—holds the larger ones by themselves against the light, as if they were jewels; and the good Ethiopians become so confident and longing, that they can hold out no longer; and then he is very slow in giving any, so that the value increases in their eyes. They are not only, as I have before said, very mistrustful in this barter, but also so undecided, like children, that beads and goods are often given away and returned. I have some hopes that my Ethnographical collection will increase considerably in this manner during the return voyage, for we have already exchanged many weapons and other things.

The spears of this country are distinguished by a greater elegance in the workmanship, and do not exceed the length of the gigantic bodies of these men. With the exception of a few, they are javelins, seven feet long, with a shaft of the thickness of a thumb. The shaft of bamboo is encircled entirely, or partly, with a narrow band of iron, or with the skins of snakes and land crocodiles, and the lower end surrounded with an iron knob and single rings, in order that the spear may have the proper equilibrium in the hand when it is hurled. About half a foot from the end it is generally furnished with a tuft of fur, which seems to stand in the place of a feathered arrow, a weapon never seen here. The iron of the head is one and a half to two feet long, the back flat, and the knob has four little bosses.

The bows are from five and a half to six and a half feet long, of bamboo, and encircled in the same manner; the strings are made from the inner bark of trees. The arrows are very neatly wrought, have barbs, and are two and a half to three feet long.

The harpoons employed against crocodiles and hippopotami, have, with the short point, which has only one barb, a length of thirteen to fourteen feet. The shank, of bamboo, is an inch and a half thick, and is not fastened to the point (neither are the shafts to the beads of lances, so that it comes off in launching the harpoon. The point itself remains by a long thin line made of bark, in the possession of the fisherman, and is always visible to him at the end by a float of ambak wood, until the animal struck has exhausted its rage; and then, sitting in his hewn-out trunk of a tree (sürtuk), he takes the line in his hand, and with a spear attacks the exhausted beast as it comes up to the surface for air, until it bleeds to death.

The ivory rings, two of which are often seen on the upper part of each arm, are two pounds and upwards in weight; the fluted clubs of ebony are two to three pounds. The knives are crooked, rounded at the top, and half a foot long, with a handle one and a half or less in length. The people procure the materials for their beautiful works in iron from Mount Korèk, in the tanks and gohrs of which iron is said to be found, like sand, in immense quantities. They brought me a little basket full of this coarse-grained black mineral, and with it a few scoriæ. According to Marian, the men smelt in earthen pots; for furnaces and such like are as little to be looked for here as in Kordofàn.

This is pure magnet-iron, which, as my Nuba thinks, they free from the larger stones, and then shake in a sieve, to free it from the fine rocky sand. Girard says that this magnet-iron shews also, in several places, specular-iron, and recalls to mind similar appearances in the great Mica slate chain of mountains of the Brazils. The specimens of stones procured from Mount Korèk, through the natives, were of a reddish coarse-grained granite, although we had expected gneiss from thence, having found it near and upon the island of Tshanker. Yet I would not be certain that these specimens were not taken from some other mountain. What rich results might ensue from an examination of these mountains!

CHAPTER IV.

KING LÀKONO’S PRIDE. — BEER KNOWN TO THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. — BAR OF ROCKS. — WAR-DANCE OF THE NATIVES. — DETERMINATION OF THE TURKS TO RETURN, AND DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE AUTHOR. — COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETURN VOYAGE. — REPUBLICANS IN THE KINGDOM OF BARI. — VISIT OF THE FRENCHMEN TO MOUNT KORÈK. — REASON OF THE AUTHOR’S AVERSION TO ARNAUD. — CONDUCT OF VAISSIÈRE AND SCENE IN HIS DIVAN. — CULTIVATION OF COTTON AT BARI. — APATHY OF FEÏZULLA-CAPITAN AND THE CREW. — SUPERIORITY OF MAN TO WOMAN IN A NATIVE STATE. — WATCHHOUSES.

26th and 27th January.—King Làkono, notwithstanding his complaisance in other respects, is proud in this single instance: he will not go on board any other vessel than that of Selim Capitan’s, much as Arnaud wishes it, who promises us a great fête when we shall bring this to pass. Selim Capitan passes with him for a matta enjoying the same privileges as himself, because he has our treasures, glass ornaments, and clothes, in his keeping, and distributes them ad libitum, with the consent of Suliman Kashef.

The island of Tshanker, called also Riëm to Selim Capitan in my presence (perhaps the name of the second and smaller island), has become, since our abode here, a market for barter. A great crowd of people is always collected here, and Selim Capitan considers it advisable to give them a taste of the effect of a gun. He therefore shot a bull while running, twice in the head; unfortunately the balls did not pierce through, and therefore the beast staggered, but did not fall. Hereupon Selim held the barrel behind the animal’s ear, and the bull fell; the people, indeed, drew back astonished, but the excessive fear of fire-arms appears, since our short stay, to be at an end in the more civilised state of Bari.

I was the cause of presents being made to Làkono, for future sowing of maize, and a better kind of durra, Ommòs (Egyptian peas), and the so-called horse-beans, (called by the Arabs, Ful, and a very nourishing favourite food of theirs,) beside many other fruits. He seemed to me to be a man who would take care to sow them, for he planted even the stones of the dates which he had eaten with us. If the dates in these warmer regions should ever come up, the whole crew, without meaning it, have contributed to plant them, because they threw away the stones of the dates they ate on all the landing-places. I doubt, however, if dates will ever thrive, because the doum-palms have a very stunted appearance in the lower countries of the White Stream, and for a long time have entirely disappeared.

As the vine thrives in Sennaar, it might grow also here, and I should have gained immortal fame if I had not unfortunately forgotten, in Khartùm, the layers of vines I had determined to take with me. Merissa is also not unknown here, as the black soldiers told me, who had drank it, and found it equally good as that of Sennaar. Beer was known even to the ancient Egyptians: what is now prepared in Egypt under the name of Busa, from wheat (kamm) is bad and pappy; in Nubia, Belled-Sudàn, we get it of better quality, made from durra, and called generally merissa: the same is also quite a common drink in this country. Beer appears, consequently, to be generally indigenous where agriculture takes place, and where wine has not received the preference due to it.

28th January.—Nature has drawn here a real bar of rocks through the White Stream, which we dare not venture to surmount; for the water has fallen, for some days, as is quite evident, and the vessels could only, by taking out all their freight, pass the defile near the large rocks, which is called on this account, bab, or gate. The river-bed beginning from hence, appears to be generally of a more rocky nature, for we perceive, even from the rocks on the Island of Tshanker, breakers in the stream up the river: however, there is no doubt, that we might sail away victoriously over these obstacles at the time of the inundation, for the river here rises to about eighteen feet high. The main thing would be, then, for north winds to blow exactly at this period, strong enough to withstand the pressure of water rising in this mountain-land; for I am still of opinion that the rapidity of the current increases from hence in such a manner, that we could not advance by the rope even with the best will. We have remained here at the island three entire days, and the ne plus ultra is not so much inscribed on the Pillars of Hercules in the water, as desired in the hearts of the whole expedition.

The war-dance, which the blacks performed yesterday, has contributed certainly to the final determination to return. Even I thought yesterday that I heard and saw in the fearful battle-song, a declaration of war, and a challenge to the contest. It was almost impossible to persuade oneself that it was merely a mark of honour. The natives marched up and down the island, in columns, brandishing their lances in the air, sang their war-songs with threatening countenances and dreadful gestures, then fell into still greater ecstasy, ran up and down, and roared their martial chant. Nevertheless I altered my opinion that this was done with hostile views, for the native interpreters remained quietly with us on board the vessel; and when we sent them to request that this honour might not be paid to us, they returned, though not having effected our object.

It was thought advisable that we should leave the shore, for the natives had only need spring down to be on board our vessels. There were certainly too many black people, and a warlike rapacious enthusiasm might easily, it was true, possess their minds, inflamed as they were by the military manœuvres. It was well, therefore, that a reiterated request on our side was answered, and an end put to the warlike ceremony, without our having betrayed our fear, by pushing off from the shore.

I remained this night on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, to induce him to renew the examination of the rocky pass in the water, and to allow me to accompany him; but he declared to me, although he could not conceal his own nervousness, that not only the Frenchmen, but also Suliman Kashef, even if the latter told me the contrary, have determined not to proceed further. I knew therefore how to explain why Selim Capitan and Arnaud had gone alone to the rocky pass, without letting me know of their intention, although the spot to be explored, where a passage possibly might be made, was scarcely a gun-shot distance from us. I felt myself, however, too much weakened from my illness to swim to it, and to scale the rocks, for I would not ask the favour of the sandal. My servants, who wished as much as myself to proceed further, had been at the place; and Fadl, who had been previously a mariner himself, declared that we could certainly pass through, but not back again, if the water continued to fall so much as it has done now for some days.

Selim Capitan was really inclined to explore the ascent, but this continuation of the voyage was not to last longer than a day. But when he knelt this morning on his carpet, before sun-rise, directing his face to the East, for prayer, and discerned the numerous fires on the right shore, which he had not remarked during his ablutions, he looked at me so mournfully and suspiciously, that I could scarcely restrain my laughter. He concluded his prayer; and now he saw also on the island of Tshanker, near us, a number of such little straw fires, over which the naked people were warming themselves; whilst nearly every single man was stretching out his long legs over his own little fire. Then his courage sank anew, for there were still more blacks than yesterday.

These men, however, did not come empty-handed, and barter rose to a pitch of greatness and variety, such as we had not before seen—a quantity of fowls, goats, sheep, cows and calves, wood, ferruginous sand, and iron dross, tobacco, pipes, simsim, durra, weapons, all kinds of ornaments for the body—everything for beads. Nevertheless the good Ethiopians did not shew themselves to-day quite blameless, for they sold quivers full of arrows, many of which were without points. They delivered the wares while receiving the beads, or the seller ran hastily away, retaining the goods as well as the purchase-money; they cuffed and wrestled with our men, without, however, making use of their weapons. On the whole, however, the injustice was on our side; the drum therefore beat to recall the crew to the vessels.

It was the middle of the day, about two o’clock, when Selim Capitan, in order to take his leave, and to employ the dreaded people at the moment of our departure, and keep them far from us, threw ten cups of sug-sug on shore, and the cannons on all the vessels were discharged, to bid solemn farewell with twenty-one shots to the beautiful country which must contain so many more interesting materials. The forty or forty-two days lost by Arnaud’s fault, in Korusko, are again recalled to my mind. If we had arrived here twenty days previously, neither would all these rocks have been an obstacle, nor would there have been a pretext for not proceeding further; and it would have been no absolute misfortune, supposing that in our return we had not been able immediately to sail over this reef of rocks.

Rain begins here, as I have already said, in two months’ time. On its setting in, the neighbouring masses of rocks discharge their water into the river-bed; the river rises after a few days, and it would not be difficult, therefore, at the expiration of that time, to pass the rocky bar. But against the proposal to wait for the rainy season, the objection, partly founded in fact, was offered, that the provisions which had been provided for ten months, would not suffice for the return voyage. Certainly the provisions had been shamefully dealt with, and there was little to be expected from the people of this country, who would be paid for every thing. It is just as clear that the natives do not cultivate agriculture beyond their immediate necessities, and therefore have stored up no magazines, as that their herds are only sufficient for their consumption, because, had it been otherwise, the Sultan, leaving aside the people, must have shewn himself more liberal. It is certain also, that with the hitherto lavish profusion of glass-beads, their value must infallibly decrease, and that therefore we shall soon be in want of this means of payment.

The principal reason, however, of my proposal not meeting with favour, appears to me to lie in this, that a sudden attack by the natives was feared, and not entirely without justice, on a longer and closer acquaintance, by which our supremacy, at all events, must suffer; because Turks wish always to remain Turks, that is, born lords of the earth. As a last resource I rely upon a third expedition, and this thought afforded me also some consolation.

The water has diminished to a remarkable degree. Close to the first island, which is next to the left shore, we ran aground, and now we have been squatting for several hours near the second island, lying at the left shore. All “lissa” and “ela” cannot bring us from the spot, although the men, who are trying to raise the vessel in the water, have rested twice from exhaustion. The negroes, indeed, approach us and laugh, but they may wish, notwithstanding, to assist us; yet it appears advisable to keep them at a distance by firing, so that they may not remark the impotency of a vessel when stranded. I here count, from the deck, eight villages on the rising ground of the left shore; on the right, lying more level with the water-line, only two. The sun sinks behind Mount Korèk, and we hope to work ourselves off this time. This may be a difficult return voyage, for we have many shallow places to pass, and the water continues to fall. We are again afloat at sunrise.

Behind the last-mentioned island we remark another little one; then we pass between two islands, for this voyage by the left shore is of a very complicated nature. We are scarcely off before the vessel immediately again sticks fast, and whirls round like a top. We proceed down the river close to the left shore, the negroes throwing stones at us; we know not whether they are in jest or in earnest. To be sure, we did not conduct ourselves in a very friendly manner, in our ascent by the left shore, having killed there eleven people, and certainly wounded many more. These are the republicans, who would not recognise King Làkono; they laugh at the threats of the crew, until Feïzulla Capitan orders his pistols to be brought, so that he might intimidate them. We shoal again, work ourselves clear, but cannot reach the other vessels, where Làkono is said to be on board Selim Capitan’s. It seems that the good king will regain, by our presence, his authority, which has been considerably diminished by the withdrawal of the subsidy, or Tulba, over these people on the left shore, who are to give us, according to his promise, several cows.

I cannot yet recover; but just at this moment, when the vessel has turned to the north, in the direction of my brother, I resign myself, with pleasure, to the idea of remaining with Làkono, learning the language, and collecting the necessary information, making myself useful in extending the knowledge of economical and technical sciences, and taking part in their military expeditions, wherein I should have formed a fearful avant garde with my three servants, who were of the same inclination as myself, owing merely to our fire-arms;—and thus to become of the most vital importance to the next expedition, and to be able to return with it.

Selim Capitan communicated to me, in confidence, that the French heroes want to visit Mount Korèk, here from the left shore, and that Arnaud has applied for an escort of ten soldiers. This intended excursion had been kept secret from me; either I was considered too weak, as perhaps really was the case or no German witnesses were wished to oppose, as they very certainly would have done, any future charlatanry. I had full satisfaction, however, when I recommended, in presence of Arnaud, a visit to the iron-mines of Korèk as being perfectly necessary. The crafty Selim Capitan said, that he had spoken to Suliman Kashef, and that a hundred chosen men, as an escort, were placed at disposal for this laudable visit. This offer of increased protection produced a peculiar effect in Arnaud’s countenance, and he muttered a curse between his teeth, although I declared that I could not be of the party.

What I said was meant in earnest, for I must have been carried, owing to the want of beasts of burden; and besides, I did not dare at all to expose my worthy head to the sun’s rays, because, from having remained under it, I had still the feeling as if my hair stood erect, like a conductor of caloric, by every single ray. Mount Korèk will, therefore, for the present, not be explored by me.

I must take advantage of this opportunity to mention a circumstance which may explain my not very great friendship for Arnaud, abstractedly from his general arrogance. Selim Capitan confirmed what the merchant Olivi had communicated to me in Khartùm. My fellow-travellers, in order to make themselves secure against any control, had determined, under the presidency of Vaissière, not to mention my worthy name at all in their journals. But the honest Vaissière had, at the same time, another plan, which was no other than to exclude me from the expedition. He himself offered to provide the biscuit necessary for me and my three servants. This proposal was the more acceptable to me, because all the baking-ovens of Khartùm had been taken possession of by the Government, to provide for the crew of the expedition.

The biscuit arrived safely the day before our departure at my house, just as Doctor Count de Domine, having returned from Kordofàn, was present. Without further investigation, I took the contents and weight to be correct, but my Italian friend thought that Vaissière was a great “baron fututto,” and opened a sack, from which an excellent biscuit peeped forth smilingly. This, however, did not convince him long; I was obliged to order Fadl, who was standing by, to shake out the bag, and then a peal of laughter resounded on every side. Only the uppermost part of the sack was laid over with good biscuit, the lower part being full of spoiled and mouldy ones. The very same result followed with the other sacks.

Armed with my heavy iron stick, I immediately ran along the side of the water to the divan of Vaissière, where I found all the Frenchmen assembled. I said plainly that he wished to force me, by this rascally deception, to desist from the voyage after one or two days’ further progress. In conclusion, I called him a slave-dealer, whose cross of the legion of honour I would tear off; and when he talked of being an officer, and “honour!” I called him a cowardly rascal. None of the Europeans spoke a word in his defence; and I was able to retreat through the numerous attendants, who feared my iron club as well as the Basha; and I went to the governor, who gave orders that the needful biscuit should be provided me from the shune.

Once again, before my departure, Vaissière and I stood suddenly, man to man, on a narrow path by the Blue Nile, where, from fear, because he had not challenged me, or lest I should push him into the water, he only stammered out the words, “Wife and children!” In these countries one must either let oneself be trod under foot, and be able to turn and cringe, or must step forward, like a man in his natural state, breast to breast.

29th January.—Before sunrise we hoist the anchor from the middle of the river, where we had halted for safety during the night, and set sail in a northern direction. Some elephant-trees, with thick foliage, and two villages, are on the left side of the shore, and a shallow long isle, like all the islands of this region. On the right Mount Pelenja, as well as an isle, which another larger one immediately follows. We see two magnificent broad-leaved acacia-trees, to which several more of these beautiful round-headed trees join on directly, and habitations right and left. The sun rises behind clouds. We row E.N.E., and then E. by N. The right shore forms a long durra-field; in its neighbourhood we get aground, and in spite of every exertion, remain fixed until half past nine o’clock. The strong north wind drives our vessel about in all directions, and the tired rowers are no match for my bold countryman. At half past ten o’clock we arrive, in an easterly direction, at the shallow island, separated from the right shore by a narrow arm of the Nile, and lying on a level with it. This island, planted with durra, is the very same one where King Làkono first visited us.

We have the other vessels ahead, waiting for us, and we come up to them at eleven o’clock, with great difficulty; for the men can display but little vigour at the rope in the water. The negroes of the right shore pursue us with several bundles of wood, to sell to us. Feïzulla Capitan is ashamed to make his report, on account of his long delay, and therefore lies down to sleep. We cast anchor also in the middle of the river; for we trust the natives no longer, and fear the wrath of the great Matta.

King Làkono sits on the shore in the centre of his people, who are standing around him; his favourite wife is also standing, and only one of his brothers is sitting near him. I now hear that Làkono had asked Selim Capitan for a musket to shoot the cannibals. The latter feared that the Tubal Cain of Bari might establish a manufactory of guns, and then come as a great conqueror to Sennaar, and therefore flatly refused him. On this account his Majesty is angry, and will not come on board. I am particularly sorry that he does not take leave of us, for I had noted down several questions which I should like to ask him. A drummer close to him is beating very skilfully, from time to time, on his long wooden kettle-drum, and answers quite doughtily the roll of one of our drummers. Another is blowing a wooden trumpet, in which the mouth-piece, or the hole at the upper end, is like that of a flute. They have also a twisted antelope’s horn, from which they manage to elicit several notes.

Notwithstanding the violent north wind, we set out again at half-past one o’clock, without even thinking of a visit of reconciliation to Làkono. What can the man think of us now? We who have got so many weapons, spears, bows, and clubs, from his people, and who certainly, in his eyes, have equally as many guns, do not give him even a single musket! We row at first, but soon tiring of this work, the vessels are allowed to drift with the stream, “Allah kerim,” and be tossed by the wind wherever it may drive them. We therefore knock one against the other, run towards the shore, and go, to my extreme anger, down the river with the stern foremost instead of the bow. This does not seem to Feïzulla Capitan to be any disgrace. To the right shore a shallow island, partly cultivated, and having, at the extremity of its foot, a little village. Another, upon which are several cows, who have only to thank the strong wind that we did not carry away some of them, stretches far downwards for nearly an hour.

Here I must express my surmise that the natives cultivate cotton, although not, perhaps, in large quantities. On the island of Tshanker I had seen already cotton offered for sale, without its existence being a matter of surprise to me; for I had previously met with it in the forests on the White Stream, growing wild. I am in possession even of a specimen of the cotton of this country, and know now how to explain from what the rahàt is made, which I got on that island. I was sitting once on the island of Tshanker, and sketching, when a young woman stationed herself at some distance, and pointed to her neck, which she wished to adorn with beads. I presented her with some to look at, and gave her to understand by dumb-show, that I wanted to have her thread apron for them. When I stepped nearer, however, to make the thing more intelligible to the woman, she drew back timidly. I therefore beckoned to Fadl, because he has more patience, and a darker colour, which must inspire greater confidence. She was no longer afraid when he came, but stopped and gave her consent to the sale by signs, although the men standing in the neighbourhood threatened her by elevating their spears. She motioned to Fadl to remain where he was, ran away, and soon returned with a leathern apron, which she had fetched from behind a rock, whereon men were standing.

Without troubling herself further about their threatening attitudes and words, she waded, with a true contempt of death, up to her breast in the water, and came out again with the rahàt in her hand, and the leathern apron round her loins. She still paid no regard to the continued threatening motions of the men, but gave the rahàt over to Fadl, took the few beads, and ran away in the greatest joy. This rahàt was twisted together very artistically of cotton threads, shaped, as I have already related, and coloured red with ochre.

Four o’clock. Our course which, judging from the situation of the mountains, had been north-westerly since half-past one o’clock, now changes,—without, however, our being able to define it distinctly. Half-past five o’clock. This is the first moment that we can say we are going N. by E. These things must be experienced: to be ill with Turks—to make campaigns and journeys with Turks—and to undertake a voyage of discovery on the White Stream with such a fleet!

The vessels, according to their different sizes, ran on the sand-bank; first forwards, then backwards,—now right, now left. To navigate with the stern foremost is the favourite custom; the sparks of the fire fall through the open hatchway, before the half-broken door of the powder-room, and whizz in the water of the lower hold! At last, by energetic threats, I wake Feïzulla Capitan from his dreadful apathy. The fire is extinguished, and the stern of the vessel, after a great deal of talking about the disgrace to a naval officer educated in England, turned to the proper direction, with the assistance of the oars.

I saw five large and small islands, but whether they lie nearest to the right or to the left shore, I know as little as upon what shore the isolated villages and tokuls stand. It was really enough to drive one mad to see the sailors so often apply themselves to the oars when the wind had turned the vessel, which they regard as a piece of floating wood, towards the mountains. I shall, at last, be confused myself in such a disgusting hurly-burly. Six o’clock. On the left, a little island; soon afterwards, on the right, a larger one, separated from the right shore by a narrow arm. Then a village, close upon the same shore, pleasingly enlivened by men and cows, immediately appears. Single trees extend behind it, and give a picturesque effect to the whole. On the left, our old acquaintance, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward again, and surpasses, at least, considerably in height, the mountains lying nearer. At half-past six o’clock we go to the N., with small deviations to one side or the other, and come to three islands, following close behind one another, along the right shore, and anchor, when it becomes dark, before seven o’clock, below the last one.

30th January.—A very strong wind all night; the vessels lying awkwardly near each other, beat their heads and knock their ribs together, so that it was quite pleasant to behold it. Every one slept and snored around me, and I also would not allow myself to be disturbed any more, and did not wake the capitan; but looked, however, twice through the open hatchway into the hold, to see if the water were increasing. This morning there was only one vessel at the anchorage; all the others were scattered far and wide down the river. Immediately after sunrise we set out towards N. On the right a wood extends; on the left, solitary beautiful trees rise; but few people are to be seen.

Two little islands are at the right shore; the one lying deeper rises from the water like an elevated green shield. The beautiful forest of the right side condensates and strengthens; on the left, also, the trees approach closer together. The country rises here, and we look far over the left shore into the land, as into an orchard, with villages. We halt at the shield-island, on the sand, and look around us for another water-track. With much difficulty we work through between the green reed island and another one, and land at our old little isle, where we made the acquaintance of the chief Nalewadtshòhn on the 22nd January. We had half an hour’s barter; then we push off, and navigate with the bow of our vessel directed towards the first of the two islands lying one behind the other, at the left shore, as if we would have caused there an earthquake. The vessel turns, and we go now again with the stern forward, as generally happens upon the Nile, in order to let the vessels drift free from danger, for the helm then becomes the scenting-nose of the shallows, and stops also, in fact, on them.

About eight o’clock we halt at the left shore. I get here a harpoon among other curiosities of the country. Unfortunately, we now hurry through this beautiful region without taking any further notice of the land or the people; for the want of sufficient water-course, and the ignorance of it, drives us to make as much haste as possible to the friendly Elliàbs, where we intend to stop and caulk the vessels. I have never remarked persons lying ill, and diseases may be generally rare among these people of nature; when they do come on, perhaps they are mostly fatal. At nine o’clock we are off again, and have, immediately on our right, two little green islands, and a village on the shore. Another entanglement of vessels, so that it is a complete disgrace!

The water, pouring out vigorously from a gohr of the right shore, is muddy, and appears to come from a lake, the water of which is let off for the sake of catching fish. On the left a green island, with high reeds; on the right a wood, wherein there are several bare and withered trees. The land appears here to be quite uncultivated. Our vessel at last goes again properly, for Selim Capitan, whom the other vessels are trying to keep in sight, outstrips us by the stroke of the oars. The reed-island is followed by another one after some paces. The shores are arid on both sides; we cannot look over them at the scenery beyond, because the water is considerably lower than when we ascended. In the middle of the river a narrow island, green with reeds, behind which, on the right shore, a large village is remarked, with broad tokuls, as well as herds of cows at the water. These tokuls are open behind, and the young cattle appear to be penned in them. Down at the village another island lies, of about a quarter of an hour in length. On the right and left, scanty wood is developing itself thickly behind the shores. An islet, of three to four paces broad, and twelve to fifteen long, has planted itself here boldly in the river. Either this island is quite new, and will increase in time, or it is the remains of an old one. Immediately behind, an elevated green shield floats again towards us. We navigate at the right shore to N.E., and shall go again soon to N.

The beauty of the country has unfortunately again descended to the old uniformity, with the horizontal position of the flat country; before us lies an island like a Delta; it is already partly dry, and we pass by its left side. But stop! Every one fetches up, and we shall be obliged perhaps to work over to the right side. Ten o’clock, N. by E.; we row bravely against the N.E. wind. The shores of the stream are flat and low; by the sand lying thereon, we see that the river at its side flows over them. An arid island at the left shore is divided by a dry gohr. On the right, a village is suddenly disclosed, with broad tokuls, and negroes expecting treasures. Upon the island, also, they stride stoutly in close to the ships, but no beads are handed to them. The men of the oxen-village point to their herds, but their benevolent offer is in vain.

We remark, as usual, among the light-coloured cows, many quite white, and few black or dapple. The bulls have the customary high and thick hump; the cows, on the contrary, have exactly the appearance of those at Emmerich on the Rhine; their horns are twisted in a surprisingly handsome form, and set off with flaky hair, as well as the ears. They carry the latter erect, by which means the head, and the lively eye, acquire a brisk and intelligent expression. We have an island of about a quarter of an hour in length at our right; the oars rest in consequence of a stronger current, and we go N.E. Half past eleven o’clock. On the left a green island, of the length of half an hour, before which we again get aground, without our intellectual commanders being disturbed by it. We stop at the right shore, to make our midday halt, but Suliman Kashef pushes off again, although he is the man who takes most care about the distribution of the meat, and we others follow amidst the murmurs of the crew.

After we had left on our right two islands, we halt at the foot of the second one, at about three o’clock, with the same intention. The shallow island is only elevated a little above the level of the water, of a sandy nature, but full of a species of large and small grass, conclusive of the splendid pastures of the surrounding country, of which the herds afford the best proof. We navigate further, and have immediately a small island on our right. For amusement we go awhile upon the sand, soon get off again, and have on the left another island with shallow sand-heads at the side. The whole left shore lies flat, and makes its appearance beautifully wooded; over it Mount Nerkanjin, concealed in mist and by the distance, rises to the west. I take leave of it and of all the mountains, which are so delightful to my heart, and have contributed so much to my convalescence by their fresh air, and by bringing before me pictures of home. We go to the north. A poor little hamlet, surrounded and shaded by trees, on the left shore. Right and left the vessels squat, and accident alone makes us take the middle road. At the right, two small islands, distinguished, as usual here, by nothing except their succulent grass or reeds. Yet our vessel, proud at the start already gained, goes smack on the flat left shore, as if Nature did not shew shallows there to the most inexperienced mariner. One shock, and—we stick fast. Once more tokuls peep through the trees of the left shore at some distance; negroes are collecting on the shore.

We are navigating through a tract of countries, touching whose original formation and populations we exhaust ourselves in fruitless conjectures. Monuments do not tell us, history is silent, and the annals of the people live only in meagre traditions, which may possibly extend to two or three generations. We could not learn any thing even of these, and the past is repeated in a perpetual present. We throw a sorrowful glance at the youth of these nations, and do not understand how it happens that a people could always remain young.

The other vessels pass us, whilst we are calling, “Eh lissa!” Most of the men are only seemingly exerting themselves in the water, to hoist the vessel, without answering the Abu Hashis passing by and mocking at us. The natives must love the shade, for they remain with their wives under the trees. The shaven heads, and mostly turned in noses of the latter seem to do homage to the principle of beauty being in man. If this decided type of the feminine formation of countenance afford the plastic proof of the primitive natural distinction of the sexes, then not woman, but man, stands here as the master-piece of Nature, similar to what is generally the case in the animal creation. Woman is the weaker being in such a state of nature as this,—the beast of burden, in whom the germ for the improvement of the character is suppressed, though it must be considered as her inalienable birthright.

After a quarter of an hour, we work ourselves off, and row, as fast as our bodies, dripping with perspiration, will allow us, in order to gain a deeper water-course. On the left we notice a forest-hamlet, and on the right an island, which is a quarter of an hour in length. Another island ends, the upper part of which I had not remarked. A long bright water-basin, from the back ground of which two little islands, like green hills, cheerfully look up, stretches before us in N.N.E. The negroes dance and jump no more; they stand melancholy on the shore, because they lose their glass-bead men.

Half-past three o’clock. After the lapse of some minutes we navigate through a narrow canal, and leave the broad water on our right behind the island close to us. At the end of this island we first drive furiously against the shore, and then against another vessel, so that there is cracking and breaking aloft, and a flood of curses discharged. The men jump into the water, bawl, and make a row on all sides, to push the vessels off the sand. We get loose, have an island immediately before us, and try to go into the narrow arm, which separates it from the right shore. The island is covered over and over with luxuriant creeping beans, and is half an hour long. Some of the vessels try their luck on the other side of the island. A number of goats and sheep are pasturing there, and among the latter, rams with horns twisted back, and manes. We keep the main direction of the river, N.N.E., but there is neither direction nor order among the vessels, “Allah kerim!”

A beautiful verdant island below seems to wish to block up our road. Suddenly a second island appears at our side, separated from the former one by only fifty paces of water. We stop at it, because most of the vessels have taken the deceptive broad path, and got upon the sand. The current is strong here, and amounts to two miles. Although our men are at home on the Nile, yet they have no idea at all that where there are precipitous broken shores, and where the shoot of the water falls, there, on the average, the greater depth is to be found.

Suliman Kashef’s beautiful slave has hitherto not yet come out of her narrow back cabin, often as I have begged him to let her. O thou land of the East and jealousy! An unexpected emancipation of the eastern wives and maidens would give an extremely surprising result, judging from analogy with all the circumstances occurring in the hárims, notwithstanding the trifling grade of cultivation, in which these beautiful domestic animals stand, and their quaint notions of the honestum atque decorum.

Four o’clock.—The last island, where we stopped only a short time, and repaired in some measure our broken helm, is immediately followed by two islands, lying close to one another, the nearest of which extends a long way. It is covered with much larger tobacco plantations than we have been accustomed hitherto to see. A hedge defends it against the beasts of the water, and over the young plants reed-roofs have been placed to protect them against the heat of the sun. But what we had not hitherto seen, is a little watchhouse raised on stakes, from which the field-guard peeps out;—a police establishment, which might be placed here more on account of human beings than of beasts.

We leave those islands, as well as the two small reed-islands previously named, together with the broad water at the left, for another island of an hour in length joins on to the latter one, and promises a deeper water-course. The steeply broken shores of these islands, like those of the right side of the river, are stratified in horizontal layers, which consist of mould, sand, and a reddish-coloured substratum of iron-ochre. We go here with the right shore to E. A broad gohr comes into the river from the right side: therefore, what I just now called a right shore, is taken for a large island, the head of which, however, no one pretends to have seen. At last, we again advance, although not for any length of time, in a bed of the stream destitute of islands, and from pure magnanimity we order the oars to rest, so as not to stave in the ribs of another vessel. On the right, a village and some scattered tokuls under the trees. We make a bend to N.N.E. The right shore is thickly covered with trees, but there appears to be little shade there except under the solitary trees having broad boughs. On the left shore are seen, on the contrary, few trees, and the real forest may be further up the country.

Six villages are observed from the deck on the right, and three villages on the left shore. Before us, to N.E., rises a small mountain, to which we perhaps shall approach still closer, for it was not remarked previously in our ascent. On the shore, we have right and left a village; at the left side two more villages immediately follow. From the deck we see here seven other villages; to the right, in the forest, a large village, and closer to us a small one on the shore, whilst on the left again, other tokul-tops peep forth beyond the shore. Solitary huts are scattered on all sides, and the country seems to be extraordinarily populous. Nevertheless, we remark very few people; the others may be employed somewhere in the interior harvesting, catching fish, or elephant-hunting; or state affairs, perhaps, keep them back.

Five o’clock.—To N. On the left a little hamlet, with tokul-roofs, which stand on short stakes, and may be used perhaps only for the cattle during the rainy season. The small tokuls raised on stakes serve partly as sleeping-places, partly as store-houses; these are seen in every village on the White River. Half-past five o’clock. At the left we see the end of an island, which must be very large, for it goes up, at least, to the last-named island, and may run behind it to the left shore. On the left there are three villages, but the trees have entirely disappeared. On the right five villages, and then a large and small island; behind them a sixth village. The river makes a beautiful bend at this place from N.N.E. to N. Splendid large shady trees stand out like giants over the other part of the forest, and from deck we perceive a hamlet under them, and also two villages at some distance from the left shore. The Haba, properly speaking, displays itself here of a blue colour in the distance, extending from W. to N., whither we let ourselves be drifted also by the tranquil river.

A large herd of cows comes down to drink at the stream, but we pass proudly by, and the Arabian children do not murmur because they are going to their dear home.

The report that the nations below had blocked up the river to cut off our retreat, having turned out unfounded, may likewise have contributed to this unusual contentment. I remarked evidently how glad they were that no crowds of natives were collected at the numerous villages, near which we were so often beneaped. On the right, the end of an island displays itself; this, at all events, therefore extends behind the upper island of the right shore. Over two little islands we see, on the right side, the tops of several tokuls. At sunset we go from N.N.W., in another bend to E. A long water-line spreads before us, whilst the river bends to right and left; we accommodate ourselves again slowly to rowing.

Half-past six o’clock. At both sides two long islands end, their commencement having been concealed from us by others. Near the pastoral village, on the left side, we hear the cattle and sheep returning home, and see the smoke widely extended, as a protection against the gnats, for their nightly rest. That is much too inviting! Near a small green island, in the centre of the stream, which spreads here majestically like a lake, we cast anchor, and the vessel turns its bow towards the west, to Mount Nerkanjin, the outlines of which stand out only faintly from the darkening sky. It is a lovely evening.

CHAPTER V.

RIVER BUFFALOES. — COMICAL APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. — WILLOWS. — SPECIES OF STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OF THE WOMEN, AND THEIR APRONS. — THE LIÈNNS. — ORNAMENTS OF THIS TRIBE: THEIR TOKULS. — THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS. — ENORMOUS ELEPHANT’S TOOTH. — LUXURIANCE OF THE SOIL. — THE COUNTRY OF BAMBER. — DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. — MANNER OF CATCHING ELEPHANTS. — ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER. — TRIBE OF THE BUKOS. — STOICISM OF AN OLD NATIVE. — SLAVES. — HIPPOPOTAMI AND CROCODILES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — THE ELLIÀBS AND BÒHRS. — DESCRIPTION OF THE FORMER TRIBE: THEIR WAR-DANCE.

31st January.—Before sunrise we set out, and had 20° Reaumur; yesterday and the day before, 19°. We had scarcely advanced three paces, when we stuck fast on the sand, because the crew wanted to let themselves be drifted at their ease. We therefore row out of the lake-like bay to N.N.E. Men and women stand smoking on the shore, and offer their pipes and other effects, but all their signs and calling are in vain, and the fear is general that the river may be too shallow. The stream issues broadly from the left side behind an island, to which a smaller one joins itself. Eight hippopotami are enjoying themselves in the space between the two islands. Their enormous heads have the closest similarity, at some distance, to those of buffaloes, only they are larger, and have no horns, and therefore the Arabic expression Gamùss el Bah’r (river buffalo) appears more suitable than that of hippopotamus. The name of G’zint is little used here, although it may be the ancient indigenous one.

Whilst we are going at half-past six o’clock, N.N.W., we observe on the right, also, a Nile arm to N.E. On the left a summer village, and sleeping places, with reed walls, and small tokuls, running quite to a point, and funnel-shaped, with plastered walls. On the right, two hamlets, and on the left a reed islet; before it a broad arm enters the land to W., and seems to form a large island, for we go here N. by E. The stream, which had narrowed previously to four hundred paces, loses little of its breadth by these means. Before us floats again a green little reed-island; we leave it at our right. The forest has again retreated, and on the left, also, there is nothing seen above the ground, except here and there the top of a tree. The shores are arid, and very refreshing is the large tree on the right, with its horizontally twisted boughs, like an isolated gigantic oak, behind which the house-tops of a large village peep forth.

A number of ash-grey men set themselves to race us on the right shore from a little village; they fife, sing, and clap their hands, dance and jump, especially the young ones. On the left also the flat sand-shore is covered with ash-grey people. The song on both shores is kept up in the very same tune and time, which they alternate by strophes. There are hardly any weapons and ornaments to be seen on these men. Cleanliness, the red colour of the skin, and luxury, seem to disappear with the neighbourhood of the Sultan’s palace.

Half-past seven o’clock. N.N.W. We have a beautiful river-path before us, winding towards N. Eight o’clock. An island at the left shore, the land arm of which is mostly dry. We circumnavigate this with the river, N.E. to N.N.W. When we came near to the natives, we found that they had tried the water a little; now, therefore, they dance and jump in long shining black boots and breeches, and grey close jerkins. Such was their appearance, and one really could not help laughing. Tokul-tops and a hamlet on the right shore; on the left a small island.

Half-past eight o’clock. At the left side the beginning and end of two islands, with a beautiful margin of reeds, and blooming creepers. We go N.W.; a broad arm of the Nile in the right shore to N. by E.; a large lake far towards the trees to S.E., and another one equally large and distant, to the right of the Nile-arm to E. The lakes are only visible from the masts. Behind an island on the left, a cattle village, with numerous herds.

Nine o’clock. From N. to N.W. A large crowd of women are singing, clapping their hands, jumping and shouting a bacchanalian huzza, as if they would make our acquaintance with might and main. A splendid shady group of trees, and a large tokul village, wherein they now may play the master, is in their vicinity. We land at the foot of the last-named island. I repair to Selim Capitan, to gather information through the Tershomàn.

Ten o’clock. N. by E. On the left a broad gohr swerves to W., and is said to issue again among the Elliàbs. I remarked on the shore a kind of willow I had never yet seen, which is altogether similar to our Rhine willows. The reïs hugged the shore, to please me, but even the last copse slipped through my fingers, without my being able to cut off a branch. The forest of the right shore promises not only variety from a distance, but also cooling shade.

Half-past ten o’clock. The river flows N.E.; on the right is a large village, near which we wind N.W.; then soon N.N.W.

On the right, herds and huzzaing, and singing negroes. The south-east wind freshens a little, just as we go N.W.; but we dare not sail, on account of the numerous shallows: and for that reason also, the mainmasts of all the larger vessels were taken down at the commencement of our return voyage. In calm weather the sails were spread over these masts, laid horizontally to protect the crew from the sun. Selim Capitan knows what the men are able to endure, and therefore commands repeatedly “Alma!” (rest); connecting it, perhaps, with calm; whereupon the rowers discontinue their labour. “Alma” means, besides, in the Aggem language in Taka, “water;” as also among the Bishari and Shukuriës. We go N.E., and then N., and round a green reed-island to S.W., but soon again to N. On the left shore, a part of the new Haba suddenly discloses itself; we go a short tract E.N.E., and at half-past eleven o’clock to N. The head and foot of two islands, one close behind the other, are at the right side. I see again the first Zigzag and Sammi, two species of strand-snipes. The latter are called by the Franks Dominicans; in Mahass and Dongola, Begha and Kegla. They make the sportsman very angry, because they announce danger to the other feathered tribe by their loud outcry.

Twelve o’clock. N.E. by E. On the left an island, and soon afterwards, when we are navigating N.N.E., another on the right; and some tokuls, with dancing women, on the shore of the downs. We stick fast on the dry ground for a quarter of an hour, and have, at half-past twelve o’clock, two islands on the left, close to one another, with the usual green border of reeds. This side rises like a hill, in the manner of downs, even to between the trees. We only see the end of these islands. Water fixes here animal life, and human population may spread far away from the main stream, generally on the White River, which may be considered as shoreless. We go round a sand-head of the right shore from N.E. to E., and at a quarter before one o’clock to S. On the right an island, and on the shore a village; on the left several people. With a short bend we have come to the N.; go, at half-past one o’clock, to E., and immediately left to N.E. At two o’clock E., and at half-past two N. A sand-bank here protrudes itself half into the river from the left shore. A summer village, with a large tree, stands behind.

On the sand-bank some pretty young girls had collected, and a number of poor Ethiopians, highly delighted at our arrival. They sing, throw themselves on their knees, spring up again in the air, and stretch their hands imploringly towards us. Selim Capitan is easily persuaded to stop a short time, and to distribute some of the usual glass beads. The unaproned damsels, who could entreat in so friendly a manner, and point to their neck and wrists, ran, however, away immediately, when we wanted to give into their own hands some strings with glass beads. There appears to me to be no doubt that there is a certain separation of the sexes; for these girls, part of whom were marriageable, kept aloof at some distance from the men: this also, shortly before, was the case with the married women. The latter appeared here and there together with the men; but there were always very few of them, and it might therefore be considered the exception to the general rule. Opposite to the sand-bank an arm of the Nile enters E.N.E. far into the land of the right side of the river. We row to N., but soon to E., N.E., and N.

Three o’clock. We leave, about N.W., the broader river separated from us by two islands lying close to one another, and have on the right the large island, or island-land, near which the arm of the Nile enters in an easterly direction. We follow this arm N.E. and N., and the island, at its entrance, has immediately an end here. A summer pastoral village is at the right on the shore of this large so-called gohr. A quarter after three o’clock. Again from N.E. to N. Several women stand on the right shore near a simsim-field; they wear behind them a large piece of leather, like a miner’s apron, which may serve them, when they sit down, as a cushion. The rahàt in front of them is not larger than a hand. Their shrill cry of exultation sounds almost the same as that of the women of Khartùm and Kàhira. At half past three o’clock, on the right two farm-yards, surrounded regularly in the square with palisadoes; beautiful verdant young trees are standing by them. The forest seems to have vanished on all sides. From N. we come gradually to N.E., and go now N.W., where the river makes a splendid bend to the N. A village lies a little up the country on the right side, and an island ends by it.

Everywhere we notice watchhouses among the produce of the fields or tobacco-plants. They consist of four stakes, with a scaffold, and over it a flat straw roof clogged with earth, such as is seen also in the land of Sudàn. If these little watchhouses are not erected against thieves or beasts,—the former I believe to be the case on account of the abominable suspicion of the people in barter,—they may be a shelter for the labourers when carrying on the irrigation. The black gentlemen had bent reeds, which had grown crooked, for their tobacco-pipes. In order to express their joy, they jump like goats, with closed legs, swinging at the same time their arms. When old men singly try these leaps, as I saw done previously by a sheikh of the Ababdes, when we called him an old man (aguhs), it looks extremely ridiculous; but it is abominable and disgusting when old women, with their flabby breasts flying up and down, make such jumps of joy. A very narrow canal leads either to a lake or low ground, or it may form a tributary arm and an island at the right.

The water here is still as clear and well-tasted as above near the mountains: sand has much to do with this. We do not remark, either, any stagnant water, standing in connexion with the stream, as further downwards. The thermometer has got up to 30°. Four o’clock, E.N.E. Several singing negroes on the right shore. Immediately N.N.E., a quarter of an hour later N. and N.W., but soon in a short bend to N.N.E. The river is about two hundred paces broad. Half past four o’clock. From N.N.E. to ——, we bring up first,—N.E. by E. for a short tract; with a short bend after a quarter of an hour N.W. A powerful Nile buffalo, looked upon with astonishment, even by the sailors themselves, being a gigantic animal, plays before us in the water, and induces the two engineers to leave for a moment their cloister system; usually they have their windows hung with curtains, and never let themselves be seen at all outside the door. Five o’clock. From N.W. to N.E., where a beautiful water-road extends before us, closed below by a green island. On the right a broad Nile-arm comes from S.E., and discharges itself to S.; it seems, therefore, to encircle a large and broad island. A number of people have collected there. The river is quite calm, unmoved by a breath of air; no oar is striking its polished surface: we sail with unruffled temper, protected against the rays of the sun, under the covering of the denda (ship’s tent, perhaps from the Italian tenda). A surprising swarm of black-coloured people accompanies us along the shore. We see how they wonder at our vessels, without comprehending how such a mighty machine could have originated from a sürtuk, or hewn-out trunk of a tree. The invention of their ancestors has remained here in its natural first foundation, for their necessities give no impulse to the improvement of these boats, which may have been even in use, in this part of Africa, before they were on the Rhine, the Danube, and the Thames.

The nation of the Liènns is already in possession of this country. The Liènns have the same language as the inhabitants of Bari; but they know also that of the Dinka nation, or the dialect of the Dinkas, which alters down the river, if such deviations have not been carried down with the features of the people. They stand in friendly relations with Bari, and do not pay tribute to King Làkono, as I heard plainly from Selim Capitan’s interpreter. Notwithstanding that their forehead is covered with points in horizontal lines, they seem to be of the same origin as the tribes of Bari. The Tershomàn Gùmberi, who gave himself out previously for a Tshièrr, pretends here suddenly to be a Liènn, and wants to go ashore with his treasures. He had accompanied us through the country of Bari, and appeared also to be known there. It seems to me that he has commercial speculations in his head, and fears that we might take from him again his beads. We induce him, however, to remain still with us, because he is very clever in his way. Half past five o’clock. On the right a village, with good tokuls, and the green island long seen by us. A city called Djàr follows soon after. Another island ends before the village, separated from it by a narrow gohr. A third village lies further down the river; to the left shore an island with a green head, near which we stop at sunset, for we see on the shore a large herd of cattle.

1st February.—It was with difficulty that I purchased a national bracelet of ivory, for these ornaments are as if grown to the people. Such bracelets are light, two to three fingers broad, and fluted, these stripes being coloured black. Small tortoise-shells are worn very commonly here, as in Bari, on the neck or arm. At eight o’clock we leave the island, go N. by E., and see upon it several scattered farm-yards with cultivation.

An island of three-quarters of an hour long was at our right. The east wind is tolerably brisk: we soon take to our oars, and I imagine we make in this manner three sea-miles in the hour. This pace stands as the rule with Selim Capitan, when the wind is not contrary. Before us we perceive a forest, which extends over the horizon on the left shore. The latter is planted far and wide with lubien, or small white and variegated beans; so is also the small island of a quarter of an hour in length, lying at our right. Nine o’clock. From E. by N., to N.E., and N. by E. On the left side of the river, where we remark a village up the country, an arm of the Nile goes N.N.W., and forms a reed-island.

Owing to the laziness of the sailors, the east wind drives us into this canal on the sand, from which we get off again at half-past nine o’clock; a small island, with a border of green creeping flowers, is at our right. A large village is seen on the left, with large and small well-covered tokuls. On the large ones the roof reaches nearly to the ground, and rests upon stakes; behind this circular portico, we see the plastered walls of the habitation properly speaking. The small tokuls have higher walls, but not this lengthening of the roof, supported on stakes, and which we saw also in Bari. Behind the small flower island, a city or large village rises on the right shore.

We go N. by E., and remark on the left side two other large villages quite in the neighbourhood of the preceding one. The forest of the right shore has again approached; a small green vegetable island being separated from it by a narrow arm; some hundreds of paces further another small island, which, besides scanty reeds, is thickly covered at the upper end with vegetables of various kinds, whilst species of couch-grass and creeping water-plants are floating round by the shores. Beyond it we see three villages lying on the margin of the river, really romantically, before and between the trees. On the left shore two neat farmyards shew themselves in a shining seriba of reeds, the stalks of which are connected very regularly with each other, but perhaps only afford resistance to tame animals. All these villages were surrounded, however, with a stronger enclosure of thorn-like shrubs, as a defence against wild beasts and naked men. A large thorn-bush supplies the place of a door, and cannot well be seized and pulled out from the outside, as it is drawn and squeezed into the door posts with its lower end. Such a seriba is common in the whole land of Sudàn; the before-mentioned reed-walls are likewise very general, and attract immediately the curious eye. The tokuls have, in part, a roof protruding in the middle with a wavy form, like also some previously seen, but the latter had low walls. A number of negroes have collected, without weapons or ornaments, and shining black, for they have passed through water.

Half-past 10 o’clock, N.N.W. In the middle of the river an island a quarter of an hour in length, covered with lubiën. A city with tokuls packed close together on the right shore, a village being opposite. Another large village is united to the city, which reaches over the island; its tokuls are mostly surrounded with reed-walls, and probably the women are shut up in them. A beautiful tree with wide-spreading branches rises between these two cities, and may serve them for their place of meeting.

Eleven o’clock, N. We leave to our left an island of an hour in length, elevated only three feet above water-mark, covered at its head with reeds, vegetables, durra, and lubiën. The shores are planted right and left. We stuck nearly fast by the large city; and now we have the trinchetta or foresail as leader, so that we may navigate on the sand more splendidly. The forest emerges on the left shore, and solitary beautiful trees stand on the margin of the river, between which an island grown over with reeds, of a quarter of an hour in length, is situated. In the space of ten minutes another one follows. The vessels halt at the shore to wait for Selim Capitan and the other vessels navigating on the sand. We lie to at the left shore, and the order to wash the vessels is also complied with by us.

Fadl and Sale had already gone from the ship on a hunting excursion, though I had no idea that they would do so while the vessels were advancing. I looked about anxiously from the deck, when a sailor shouted to me from the mast that he saw them at a distance. It was not long before I heard them shooting, and they came to the right shore with a large elephant’s tooth on their shoulders. I had them fetched off in the sandal, and then found the length of this tooth to be eight feet and a half. It was unfortunately a little decayed, but yet one of the largest we had on the vessels, for the larger ones were generally from seven to seven feet and a half long. It had served also as a stake to tie oxen to, and was purchased for a few large glass beads.

We set out at half-past two o’clock, but the east wind drives us back to the left shore. The land here is principally cultivated with simsim and lubëin. Watchhouses, scarecrows, old baskets, and skins stuck upon poles, are paraded about in the fields. Everything is standing green and beautiful. It is impossible that the natives can water these large fields by hand, as I saw by the small tobacco plantations. In vain, however, I looked about for regular irrigation canals, by which they conducted the water from the river to gush over the land, in the manner usual in Egypt and Nubia, from the simplest contrivances up to the chain of buckets drawn by oxen; for water-wheels or saghiën cease with the Arab tribes on the White Stream. The clayey fruitful soil must therefore be able to retain, for a long time, the moisture remaining after the inundation, and the strong nocturnal deposits may preserve the fruits fresh; the more so, because the sun, owing to the abundance of thick plants, cannot scorch the ground.

The creeping beans seem to have the power especially of attracting to themselves atmospheric moisture; I saw them often, on quite arid soil, where everything else was already dried up, spreading from one root up to twenty paces distant in the most luxuriant dark green foliage. It was only with caution that one dare raise these long tendrils, to seek the slender long pods, for animals liking moisture—such as snakes and loathsome reptiles—take up their abode under them. Soon we push off again from the shore and go to N.N.E. On the left an island, which is cultivated towards its lower end, whilst the reeds are wisely allowed to stand at the upper end, on account of the pressure of water. Near the pastoral village in the neighbourhood a large tree rises. Our men believe that veneration is paid to trees standing isolated. Another small island, covered with grass and reeds, obeys still the element from which it rose.

The shores of the river are generally green, and enjoy the cultivation of the human hand. The land extends flat on the right, encircled by the Habas: four villages lie in it, and the village on the shore is really large. On the left, a small and pretty river-meadow with a tokul and watchhouses; we make a strong bend to N.N.W., and here ends on the left the former island, above half an hour in length. A fifth village joins the four others; the solitary farm-houses are surrounded with hedges of light reeds, as also the farm-yards, wherein a few tokuls lie together. The latter, perhaps, as generally in the land of Sudàn, harbour an increasing family, and increase with it till they become a large settlement, where the head of the family has the precedence according to the rights of primogeniture; this we find also in King Làkono’s dominions. Though harvest has taken place on the right shore, we see on the left nothing but green cultivation.

Three o’clock. We land below this Ethiopian pentapolis on the right shore. Here, therefore, the bairàm-el-kebir will be probably solemnised. Unfortunately I do not see a tree under the shade of which I could seat myself, but interesting purchases of the national curiosities may be made. My speculation in elephants’-teeth is considerable, and a kind of mercantile rage comes over me for the first time in my life, when I think how I shall surprise my dear brother in Khartùm, as we are drinking the first glass of wine together in the divàn, and my three faithful Baràbras, covered with the weapons and ornaments of the people of these countries, march in through the bye-door and lay the whole booty at our feet. We are here in the country of Bamber, and the large village city bears the name of Berize. Here Gùmberi, our interpreter, is really at home: I see how his relations shake hands with him and press him in their arms. His countrymen have generally, but not always, these single tattooed prominences or points upon the forehead, which reach in six or eight lines crossways to the temples. The natives are, on the average, of considerable height, although we find among them men of moderate size, but they are destitute of the muscular structure of limbs of the highlanders, and are much more slimly built: the formation of the face and the language is, however, similar to those above. They are dirty, and may be called poor, in respect to their ornaments and weapons, compared with the people of the highlands of Bari. The ivory bracelets we find dearer here than anywhere else; the interpreter, who has left on board the greatest part of his beads for temporary safe-keeping, may have enlightened them on the value of our ornaments, in order to remain the safer in possession of his own treasures.

They produce their iron weapons from Bari, and seem not to wish to sell them at all. This deserves all praise, and shews that they reflect; for being a small nation they ought always to be ready for combat. The forest behind the wide-extended durra-stubble consists of melancholy geïlid trees on dry and sandy soil. The men bring wood, every one a little log: a couple of small beads are given to each. They are contented, like children; but they manage to steal our purchased wood and sell it to us a second time. My servants tell me that they have found a deep pit covered at the top lightly with straw, in which elephants are caught. A barking dog was fastened to a corner of it. The latter is a huntsman’s whistle to entice the elephants who may chance to be curious. This manner of catching elephants is common throughout all the land of Sudàn, especially in Fàzogl. We were not a little afraid formerly in Taka of falling, during our nocturnal marches, with our horses, into these elephant-pits, as frequently happens in the Chasuas. In truth the people in Taka seem to stand on friendly terms with elephants, and to leave the hunting of them to the mountain people of that country, although Sauachinn (Sauakim) on the Red Sea is the staple town of ivory, from whence it goes to India, and afterwards to Europe.

2nd of February.—To-day is the great Bairam feast. The rising sun is greeted with twenty-one cannon-shots: all the people run away, and do not return till after all the guns had been discharged. I learned from Feïzulla Capitan the formula of the usual congratulation: “Bairam Sheriff ma berèk,” and set off with it to the two commanders. The Egyptians could not belie, on this opportunity, their innate Bakshish mania, and came one after the other for drink-money.

Arnaud is so ill that he cannot leave his vessel, and raves incessantly. With the exception of some small elephants’ teeth, I only acquire, notwithstanding Fadl’s activity, a few ivory bracelets and iron buckles, with an oblong plate. Although Selim Capitan yesterday, at the request of Gùmberi, who petitioned for his countrymen, distributed some cups, with the usual sug-sug, among the people, and also presented strings of beads to certain individuals, yet they only brought us to-day, at last, one ox. Gùmberi seemed not to possess the proper influence with his friends, and, moreover, to have excited the envy of a chief; for he had only fetched away, at night, from Selim Capitan, his glass treasures, under the promise of several paschal lambs. We set out at half-past eleven o’clock at noon from Berize, and leave on the right a reed-island, of the length of half an hour, the lower part of which is covered with lubiën. N.W. by W. Both shores are cultivated. At one o’clock a large village on the right; opposite, another one, with open tokuls, and a strong palisado-kind of enclosure, seemingly as a protection against wild beasts, if not against men themselves; for this is a station of herds. N.E. by N., and a quarter after one o’clock to N. Near the large village three others are in a line, on the right side of the river, the last numbering about a hundred and fifty tokuls. The walls of the magazines, being raised on stakes, are wattled like baskets, and then besmeared with clay; the tokuls for the cattle, which also stand separately here, are protected by a strong seriba of trunks of trees and thorns; whilst around the habitations of human beings there are hedges of reeds, partly smooth. Opposite, at a little distance from the left shore, another village. To judge from the shores, beans here appear to afford a principal means of nourishment. Half-past one o’clock. From N.N.E. to W. by N., and then N.N.W. Solitary tokuls, near which the beans occupy entire plains. From N.N.W. immediately again W. Some hundreds of royal cranes perched here quite gorgeously on a sand-bank; they were right not to keep their position, for I had raised the “longue carabine,” as my brother used to call our long Turkish gun. A quarter before two o’clock, N.W. From the deck we see four villages to the right, and one to the left.

Before us we have the obtuse corner of an island, which has from here considerable extension. Large herds of cows and villages are scattered upon it. Away over the end of this island we see, on the right side of the river, three more villages. In consequence of the shallows, we leave the right arm of the Nile and make for the left shore before the broad island, going again aback. Close to the nearest village, on the large island, a number of blacks have collected.

The leader of the chorus leads the choir, and the multitude answers with fearful vigour. A troop of élites, assembled before the crowd, run in close column backwards and forwards,—their leader at their head, commanding them, and holding a pole, on the top of which an animal’s tail was fastened, clearly in order to give us a warlike representation. But they bring several heads of cattle to the shore. These are reasonable men: we have, in truth, no meat, and the sailors crack the rough lubiën-pods and the durra-stalks like sugar-canes. Real garden warblers are these Arabs, and all the blacks. Selim Capitan has already reached the island, whilst we remain fixed on the sand until I wake up the captain. I hear the sailors gasping forth “eh lissa,” but I know this simulating of extreme exertion, when each man trusts to the other one working. At half-past two o’clock we pushed on through the left arm of the Nile over to the island, where there was a great huzzaing and joy on the vessels touching land. Again they brought three oxen, and a splendid barter took place. Besides fowls, goats, and sheep, they bring a quantity of elephants’ teeth, panthers’, leopards’ and monkeys’ skins, little stools, iron buckles, ivory bracelets, weapons, lubiën, small water-melons, woollen war-caps, iron necklaces, strings twisted together of little shining black fruits, fixed like beads, &c. The people are very friendly, and willing to oblige, and I might say, more cultivated than those of Bari. We are on the large island called after the name of the neighbouring great village Buko. The latter contains more than five hundred tokuls. I hear, to my astonishment, that the nation here is not called Bamber, but Buko, and that the tribe of the Bambers has its boundaries before this island, and is only a small race, like the Korreji, or Korreschi, who are said to dwell above the Bambers, and may have originated from Mount Korreji in Barì. It seems that these Bukos are of one race with the Bambers, Tshièrrs, and Liènns, for they have generally their foreheads dotted. The formation of the face, and other physical qualities—the large and moderate stature, also speak in favour of a common origin and subsequent separation.

The arm of the Nile wherein we lie, and which we shall navigate, is called Kirboli; the right and narrow arm on the other side of the island, towards N., Kirti. Selim Capitan requests me to accompany him to the Kirti. We went down it in the sandal for the distance of half an hour, and found its breadth to be seventy-five metres, by the assistance of the rope which was drawn across it through one of the plundered sürtuks. As far as we can see, this arm goes, with slight declinations to E. and W., entirely to N., which direction the natives also gave. According to this it would be our nearest road, but its water is unknown, and it is not thought safe to let the lighter vessels take this short cut.

With respect to this little track, it had a depth, at the commencement, of two, immediately afterwards of two and a half, and, at the end of our excursion, of three and a quarter fathoms. We returned about evening by land,—painful enough for Sabatier and myself, who are just convalescent,—and passed by nine small villages, or groups of tokuls, which I had taken, at our anchorage, for three villages, and then had counted thirteen. The surface of the earth is an excellent humus on this side, and the little fields were trenched with furrows for irrigation, and on which, among other things, we found water-melons. On the extensive plain of the island we do not observe a tree, except some small ones, near our vessels, and a large one behind the city of Buko. From a distance we saw the natives harpooning fish, which they brought soon for sale to us. But here, also, we found, in general, an intolerable and abominable mistrust.

3rd February.—The natives have generally few ornaments, weapons, and other effects; and little, therefore, could I acquire in this respect. Yet I did a good business in ivory, and I please myself at the idea of how you, my dear brother, will stare, though far,—far are we yet asunder.

An old man, having two thick ivory rings, of a hand’s breadth, on the upper part of each arm, and leathern strings round his neck, will have nothing to do with selling or the new glass trade. He regards the glass beads with a certain air of contempt,—won’t have them, even gratis, and looks disdainfully at the childish passion of his nation. I see him now from the vessel, quietly sitting under a little tree, and smoking his pipe, without troubling himself to come nearer to us. He smoked, as is frequently seen on the White Stream, charcoal, from want of tobacco—called here also tabak—a thing which none of us could imitate. When I gave him tobacco, he became at once quite friendly, knocked the charcoal out of his pipe, filled it, took down the little tongs, to which there was a shovel attached, from the pipe-tube, and laid a coal upon it.

Unfortunately, what we had been already told in Bari about the traffic in slaves, was confirmed here. Las Casas,[6] who effected the freedom of the Indians, transplanted therefore an abuse only from one quarter of the globe to the other, without considering its results. In the mutual wars here, the prisoners, like those of the Greeks, Romans, and ancient Germans, are made slaves. Yet, perhaps, among these people they are redeemed by paying a certain number of cattle. Men-hunts, properly speaking, do not seem to take place, and their wars consist only in the reciprocal plunder of herds, and the revenge thereby occasioned, when they may seize on human beings as an equivalent for their pillaged property.

Cattle are here of considerable value, and this may arise from the great population, which therefore does not despise meat. A slave costs an ox, or six iron bracelets, which are not thicker than a little finger. It is Sultan Làkono who takes their slaves from them, giving iron in return; and as in the land of Sudàn, golden okiën serve instead of coined money, so here rings are used for the same purpose. It may be also a kind of policy in this king paying only in rings, and not in weapons, by the possession of which his neighbours might become dangerous to him. Làkono comes to this place every year, with several large sürtuks, and winds up this business in person. He requires these slaves for labour (those seen by us seemed quite contented with their lot)—to get the iron and work it, and also perhaps for his protection. The despots of Sennaar also keep up their dignity by slaves, and not by a body-guard of women, any more than Sultan Làkono. The Turks profited by this cheap opportunity to buy slaves, and Suliman Kashef, who on the former expedition brought fifteen slaves to Khartùm, and sold them as soldiers, is said to have taken this morning several on board his vessel. I am unable alone to oppose this want of discipline. Even M. Arnaud, who pretended previously to oppose with me any purchase of slaves, has been found very willing to take on board a young native girl, who, however, is said to belong to the woman-hating Selim Capitan, as a plaything for his little slave, or for himself, which makes the invalid Sabatier perfectly furious.

Half-past eleven o’clock. We leave the island, and go at first S.W. by S., and then proceed N.N.W. on the Kirboli (Bah’r el abiat). On the right we have immediately the large village of Buko, which turns longitudinally from the shore. The tree standing there is taken not only by me, but also by the Egyptians, for a sycamore. Three villages follow on the shore of the island; the last also is not a small one. For a moment we are beneaped, and get ourselves in motion by rowing against the north-east wind, which is looming. The latter village becomes still larger, and is connected with several others; from which, at twelve o’clock, a small hamlet is separated by an interval of space. The pointed roofs, which are frequently so shelving, of the little tokuls, and which I at first could not explain, are nothing but the movable coverings of the wattled magazines. We wind S.W. by W. On the right a large and small village, W.N.W. and N. The arm of the Nile here is not more than a hundred and fifty paces broad. Half-past twelve o’clock N.W. and W. by E. Three villages on the right, and on the left, from the deck, a distant Haba. Not far from the shore, another village on the island. One o’clock.—We go to E.N.E., and wind to the left W. by N. The island continues cultivated, and we perceive again a hamlet upon it. Half-past one o’clock.—From W. by N., to N.E. by N., and a short tract N.N.W. We halt at this place to wait for Selim Capitan. After a quarter of an hour we set out again, and go from W.N.W. to N.N.E.

Several purchases were made, and there is eternal strife, robbery, and theft of beads, among the crew. I see there will be murder and homicide; for every one now wants spears and ebony clubs, as well as strings of ostrich-egg aglets. It is fortunate that the ivory is claimed by the government, and private purchase of it forbidden. We observe here also some of those gigantic ant-hills, which are so common on the low ground down the river. From the deck we remark two villages on the left side, before the forest, which is half an hour distant.

Two o’clock. N., and immediately W. by N. A large village upon the island is seen from the deck at a little distance from the right shore. Half-past two o’clock. At the right a broad arm of the Nile, going to N.W., and forming a small island. We leave it to the right, and go W. by N. and N. to N.N.E.; then round a sand-head again, S.W. by W. The shores are mostly precipitously broken off; layers of humus, sand, and earth impregnated with iron oxyde, which forms here also the substratum. A quarter before three o’clock. Round a sand-bank of the right shore for five minutes, N.N.E., then N.W. for an equally short time, and to N. by W. The shores here are covered, for the most part, with green reeds.

Three o’clock. The thermometer rose this morning, up to noon, from 20° to 27°, and has now, at three o’clock, 30°. Towards N. From the deck, a village on the left, and two on the right. N.W. by N. Three villages on the left, and one on the right; the former near the Haba, which is a quarter of an hour distant. Half-past three o’clock. From W.N.W. to N.N.E. Two villages on the left, a little remote from the shore. A very short tract E.N.E., and we round a long sand-head to W. Six hippopotami are enjoying themselves before us, as yesterday; and it seems that they retreat, when the stream falls, into the marsh regions, where they are more secure from man.

To N. Here we again see hippopotami and crocodiles near one another; they live peaceably together, as is generally known here, and a crocodile would never attack a hippopotamus, much as he might like perhaps his flesh. The latter has, indeed, like the elephant, a clumsy appearance, but notwithstanding this, he displays an incomparably greater activity in water and on land than the crocodile; besides, he is as courageous as a bull, as soon as he is provoked, and attacks men and tramples them under his feet, when he is wounded on shore. On the other hand, he is said never to go ashore from the water, when he is struck there by the harpoon, to pursue and take revenge.

We remark four villages in the neighbourhood of the right shore, or on the island of Buko. Nearly all these villages are to be seen only from the deck over our cabin. Four o’clock. From N.W. to N.E. by N. The hippopotami appear angry at their tranquillity being disturbed by us foreign intruders. They move quite boldly near to the vessels, snort and throw up water, although they have not been offended, as they were previously, by shots, which are discontinued, owing to the great mischief perpetrated by these beasts at that time. From N.E. by N., immediately to N.W. Some trees come in view, and soon also a solitary dhellèb-palm—a pleasing sight which we had long been deprived of. For some hours we have seen no people on the shore, although three villages are found here again at a short distance from it. The purchase of slaves or kidnapping cannot be unknown to them, and they may fear a quid pro quo for themselves, and not trust the seeming peace. Half-past four o’clock. To W., a little way to S.W., and then W. by S., at which bend the river is scarcely fifty paces broad. Reed-shores throughout. From the very short tract W. by S. to S.W. by S. Here a broad arm goes to N.W., and forms an island at our right, where Suliman Kashef is already halting, whilst we are still clinging to the left shore. Five o’clock. Before us, to S.S.W., the river again separates, and forms another island. The right arm is our road, and goes S.S.W.; the left goes S.S.E. The latter appears to have become quite dry, for the negroes have drawn a barrier of reeds through it, in order to shut out the fish found in this gohr. We land at the first island. The arm lying to S.S.W. shews itself now as a gohr, discharging itself with unusual rapidity into the Nile, instead of forming our track, for our course runs with the former great arm to N.W.

4th February,—Yesterday was the last day of the great Bairam. Selim Capitan and Suliman Kashef had called up all the skill of Turkish cookery to give us Franks a good dinner, at which we were the jollier because the Frenchmen had lost several bottles of wine in a wager. The river, flowing in S.S.W., and said to be an arm of the Nile, puzzles me exceedingly. According to the natives, it comes from the mountains above, and indeed from the Nile itself. If it come from above, it must make a considerable bend; for it flows from the left side into the river, and follows upwards its direction immediately from S.S.W. to W.: it must cut through, somewhere, the old sanded and choked-up primitive bed of the Nile, to come from E. or S.E. from the mountains to W. It might be possible that the half dried-up gohr, from S.S.E., serves as its main bed at high water, and this being sanded up, it had retreated now into the deeper canal. Selim Capitan found the breadth of this tributary, or gohr, to be eighty metres near the before-mentioned solitary dhellèb-palm on its shore. The rapidity of its current is greater than usual in the White river, and amounts to three sea-miles and a half. Still it is doubtful whether it be a river discharging itself, or a Nile arm. Clouds, threatening rain, have shewn themselves for some days, and in the evening-whole coveys of swallows are moving towards the N. We have seen no dhellèb-palms on the shores of our Kirboli, although there are some of them on the main stream. The Kirboli, therefore, may have already reached its termination here.

I hear, from Selim Capitan and his interpreter, who is well acquainted with this country, that we passed by two tribes yesterday afternoon; and I understand now what the natives wanted to tell me when we yesterday halted for a moment to wait for Selim Capitan. According to what the Bukos themselves said, they were as large a nation as their island. But this is incorrect; for at two o’clock yesterday, this tribe ceased, and was followed by that of the Tshièrrs, who possess both shores from thence, and reach to the neighbourhood of this place, where Bohrs appear on the right shore. The Tshièrrs have their foreheads stippled, like the people dwelling upwards, and use also the same language. Downwards from them the language is again allied to that of the Dinkas. It was, therefore, the little country of the Tshièrrs, where no one was seen on the shore, because they feared that we were set against them by the Bukos. However, the tribes above named, having similar tongues and descent, do not live in open feud, for I met myself with men of the Tshièrrs at the top of the island. A couple of them also were with Selim Capitan, and told him that their countrymen had fled from us.

It was here where I was so ill on our ascent, and yet was sufficiently sensible to request to be bled. Therefore, everything now is new to me, and I am the more anxious for intelligence about the stream territory of this place. As I hear from Thibaut and Selim Capitan, Arnaud applied himself to the sextant on our ascent, and found 3° 48′! Selim made himself merry at the engineer’s expense, because he himself, on the first expedition, the limits of which were some hours further upwards, had likewise found, or pretended to have found, 3° and some minutes. The difference, however, appears now by the calculation at not less than 3°!

We are here among the Elliàbs, who are constantly at war with the Bòhrs dwelling opposite. Twenty-four Bòhrs had come across to us to-day and brought us cows. The Elliàbs wanted to fall at once on these men, and to massacre them. We made earnest remonstrance to them to prevent such a scene, but they continued angry at the Bòhrs coming into their territory, and thought that they could provide us as well with cattle. The Bòhrs seem to be wealthy, and are better armed than the Elliàbs. They hunt elephants, but also catch them in pits as elsewhere. The Elliàbs have their foreheads adorned, like the Keks, with artificial wrinkles. They want also the four lower incisors, as is generally the case on the White Stream. The people are not muscularly limbed, but tolerably tall. They wear a feather on the head, or a coiffure like a flat basket, which may serve them as such, for it is only very loosely put on.

The war-dance which they performed in honour of us was of the same character as those we had hitherto seen, but it was executed here even in detail. They approach us marching in a column, with a leader at their head. The commander tunes the battle-song, and the chorus answer him. They run forward, and the column breaks, because in their wars they meet breast to breast; they parry with their hands the feigned hostile darts, and avoid them, bending and writhing their body, and kneeling down. They retreat, and the leader encourages them by a warsong, and even a woman steps out from their little company and sings to them to inspire them with courage, in quite a different melody, and with half-threatening, half-imploring gestures. The column has again closed, deploys a second time, and sings its answer in vehement and broken notes. We need not understand the language in such a warlike play, which reminds us irresistibly of the ancient Germans. They generally performed this dumb show with a pliability and truth of expression, such as no European artiste could imitate, unless he had learned their manner of carrying on war from his infancy. Moreover it does not seem that they carry shields, because otherwise they would have made the parry with their hand differently. When I think how skilfully the dexterous horsemen of the Shaigiës performed the well-known girid, or Dshirid game, threw the obtuse spears, parried them with the hand or the girid, which answers to the German gerte (switch), or avoided them, now I believe that the men of Bari mostly make use in their wars of the little hand-shields. The Elliàbs have brought cattle; but repeatedly declare that it is the same to them whether Selim Capitan gives them beads or not. Such proud disinterestedness has not hitherto come before our notice.

5th February.—The thermometer shewed, before sunrise, 15°; yesterday morning, however, 20°, but at noon it was not higher than 27°, and at three o’clock 28°, and fell after sunset to 26°. The hygrometer has been so disordered by Arnaud’s masterhand, that he cannot even make use of it himself. This morning was misty, damp, and cold. The corn was brought ashore from the vessels, and it was discovered that a great part of it was mouldy. The bad condition of the vessels is alone the cause of this, and Selim Capitan bears the blame, because he had not taken care to have them properly caulked before setting out. The people of this place have no ornaments on themselves, and not even elephants’ teeth to dispose of. I could only therefore procure a broad iron bracelet, and looked with a kind of envy, when Selim Capitan despatched the sandal to the Bòhrs, on the right shore, and fetched off a number of beautiful elephants’ teeth. Cultivation is not to be seen on and near our anchorage.

Selim Capitan asserts, that the questionable river is a gohr, which he saw in the country of the Liènns, flowing away from the main stream. I cannot persuade myself that I could have overlooked this, with all my earnest attention. We shall navigate it therefore this afternoon, in order to divest ourselves of uncertainty.

CHAPTER VI.

EXAMINATION OF AN ARM OF THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE BANKS. — PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND FOR A LIVE HIPPOPOTAMUS. — THESE ANIMALS RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE LIÈNNS. — ROPES MADE FROM THE LEAVES OF THE DOUM-PALM. — UÈKA. — CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF THE LIÈNNS. — THE EMEDDI-TREE. — DÖBKER-TREE. — COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — TRIBES OF THE BODSCHOS AND KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OF THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER WITH THE KARBORÀHS. — THEIR DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — MOUNT NERKANJIN. — ISLAND OF TUI. — THE KOKIS. — CONTEST WITH HIPPOPOTAMI. — CROCODILES’ EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIÈRRS TO THE ELLIABS. — EBONY CLUBS. — THE BÒHRS: THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — ANT-HILLS. — “IRG-EL-MOJE” OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES OF VEGETABLE. — VETCHES. — THE ANDURÀB OR ENDERÀB-TREE. — THE DAKUIN-TREE. — A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY OF DUNG-FIRES.

6th February.—Yesterday the doubtful river was indeed investigated, but only for a very short distance, for the wind was contrary, and the sailors and soldiers murmured loudly, because they knew that this intermediate voyage, which threatened to delay their arrival in Khartùm, arose from the Franks. Under such circumstances, even the expressions of the natives of the country cannot be depended upon, for our black soldiers can translate just what pleases them. At first the river was said to come from the mountains above, and now they make it take its origin as a gohr near the Liènns. We had an interpreter with us, who is familiar with its shores, and who returned to us at this opportunity. When he also confirmed the new assertion, the further examination was provisionally given up after a course of about an hour long. Where it flows down N.W. by N., we turned round and navigated W. by N. out of it back to our encampment. The projecting shore had deceived me, therefore, when previously passing by, with respect to the direction of this arm of the Nile. It is called Kiehr, which is the often-heard kir (water), thence Kirboli, Kirti, Kiti. There is therefore no doubt that the name of the White Stream, the main arm of which is called also here Kir-Te, is originally Te, from Barì to Khartùm, for it is even called Te Uri by the Nubas, the former word not being used for drinkable water. The country of these four arms of the Nile is called Kofon, corresponding to the Arabic mogren (conflux).

I repaired this morning on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, and shall remain with him to-day, on account of his interpreter. It was not till this morning that it was at last determined to follow further the questionable arm of the Nile, which we navigated for a short tract the day before yesterday. Seven o’clock. We leave our landing-place, and proceed up the Kièhr in a westerly direction. After a quarter of an hour the latter serves as a gohr to N., appearing soon to disembogue itself into the stream, which we navigated previously.

We go some paces here S.W., where quite a little island, with high reeds, rises in the middle of the river. From W. to S.W., from W. to N.W. The Kièhr seems to be rapid at its tide, and to exercise great force: we see it by the torn and indented shores, and especially by the devastations on a little gohr, now dry. Half-past seven o’clock. A broad gohr flows away to N., and winds immediately N.W. Our river, which increases considerably in breadth above this Nile arm, winds W.S.W., and S.W. Before us a large forest; near it we halt immediately afterwards.

At eight o’clock, a north-wind gets up, and we sail S.S.W., and S. by E.; after a quarter of an hour, S.W., and W., and with a short bend, immediately to S. Right and left pastoral villages, with lowing herds and natives on the ant-hills. The huts have the form of a bee-hive, are five to six feet high, and plastered with Nile slime. The ash-grey people dance and jump, and want to keep us by force. The women run and sing by us, their hands thrown over their heads in real despair because we will not stop. Half-past eight o’clock. S. by E. The depth of the water not more than a fathom. On the left a long summer village and a harim of several tokuls close to it. We halt a moment at the right shore, take the wood which the negroes had already brought for us to the shore, give them some sug-sug, and proceed. The women, with large leathern aprons, who have gone away empty-handed, jump and make gestures as if they were mad.

A quarter before nine o’clock, S. Clouds threatening rain. At the right the forest close at hand. E.S. On the right a large pastoral village, with plastered beehives, looking like the bakers’ ovens in the land of Sudàn. The cattle stand with their beautifully-twisted horns, close pressed together, and low at us, probably because they recognise us as deadly enemies, and would rather be in the meadow than waiting here for us. We do not halt for the sake of the oxen, but on account of the vessels stopping behind, although we ought to take advantage of the favourable wind, as the water is falling more and more. Elliàbs are there, who are unarmed, but yet immediately begin their war-dance. The vessels have, fortunately, not been stranded, and we sail on at nine o’clock. The village is called Kiùi or Quùi, and is the boundary of the Elliàbs on the right side of the river. After a quarter of an hour, E.S.E. Half-past nine o’clock, S.E. by S., and in a bend to S. A quarter before ten o’clock, S.S.E., and S.E., where, at the corner, the crocodiles make a great rustling in the shallow water, and seem to be engaged in violent combat. At ten o’clock, S.S.E.

I am again very weak to-day, and cannot yet recover myself, for I want a glass of good wine; every moment I sink back upon the cushion, and can scarcely hold a pen. The Haba accompanies us continuously at a slight distance from the right shore. A quarter after ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W., and again to S.E. We see many crocodiles wallowing about in the water, who do not look at us in a very friendly manner. Half-past ten o’clock. From S.E. by S. to S.W. The hippopotami, thirteen in number, are crowded like smooth rocks in the water before us. They spout up the water from anger at still larger swimming animals approaching, as they may conceive our vessels to be, for it does not seem that they are in conflict amongst themselves, or that they want to take the field against the crocodiles, who are keeping behind us.

A little before eleven o’clock some armed ash-grey men shew themselves, without any ornaments, on the right shore. From S.W. by W. to S. by W. We halt at the right shore to receive some elephants’ teeth, but they are too old, and we bear off immediately again to S.E. In the forest at the right hand we perceive a number of birds and a considerable herd of gazelles, who stand in an attitude of curiosity like goats. Up to here the Elliàbs ran after us from the village of Kiùi. Half-past eleven o’clock. From S.E. by E. to S., yet not for long, but to the left S.E. At half-past twelve o’clock. We halt a second time at the right shore, owing to want of wood. I saw here a large oval shield of neat’s hide, held simply by a stick. It belonged to an Elliàb; these shields are said to be used more in contests with animals than in war. This is perhaps likewise the case with the few larger shields in the country of Bari.

At half-past one o’clock we navigate again to S.E., and a quarter before two to S. by E. We see that the forest lies lower than the shores, and that the water enters it. This local quality of ground is the case generally, perhaps, in the forests. Either they lie behind the dam of the old shore, which prevents the mass of waters of the periodical rains from flowing into the river, or the Nile enters through the chasms of the shores, if they do not lie in recesses or old river-beds, where the rain water collects and remains on the clayey substratum, which is the very same even as far as the mountains of Bari. How could it be possible else that these vigorous trees (the Tihl or elephant-tree is particularly seen here), should retain their magnificent verdure abstractedly from the atmospheric moisture.

Two o’clock. The thermometer this morning 18°, noon 26°, and now 27° Reaumur. From S. to S.S.E. and soon again to S. The north wind has slackened since noon; we navigate slowly, and must even content ourselves with libàhn, for no one has yet thought of taming river buffaloes to tow us in the water itself. Laughable as this may appear at the moment, yet I do not consider it impossible, for according to the crew, a young hippopotamus is as tame as a calf. The apothecary Laskaris possessed shortly before my arrival in Khartùm such a Nile calf. He wanted to make a vast sum of money by it, for they had offered in England a reward of some thousand pounds sterling to any one who would bring a live hippopotamus to London. It is well known that a living species has never yet been seen in Europe. His avarice did not allow him, however, to place the beast in some garden close to the Nile; nor did he provide a cow and fresh milk. He was even foolish enough to lower it into the cold cistern, where it died in a few days. Although this primitive animal was formerly indigenous in Egypt, yet now it very rarely descends over the cataracts to that country. Mohammed Ali had received such a beast as a present from Upper Nubia, which was kept for some years as a curiosity in a reservoir in the Nile at Bulak, the lower port of Kàhira.

Half-past three o’clock.—From S. to S.E. by S. On the right, in the badly planted Haba, the first doum-palms again, standing at the corner, which we pass by at a quarter before three, for a very short tract to S.S.W., and equally rapidly S.S.E., to go at three o’clock again S.S.W., and immediately to S. A half-finished tokul-village rises very humbly between some old low huts. There were here benches in the form of couches, which I had not yet seen on the White Stream, although I had not exactly regretted their absence. They consist of cudgels, and every single tokul has its seat of repose. Half-past three o’clock. From S.W. to S. by E. Near the doum-palms, we see also solitary and unusually high poison-trees in the forest, at the right hand. The country appears very little populated; perhaps a sign that we are really in a tributary arm or gohr. This was also the case even where the Kièhr disembogues near the Elliàbs. The scantier population may arise, in part, from the more recent lines of the shore being less constant. The solitary tokuls belong to fishermen, if we may judge from the sürtuks and fish-baskets set up. Four o’clock. From S. in a bend to S.E. On the left a long and miserable village stretches along the shore, with nine carcases of tokuls, and small tobacco-plantations. This appears also to be a village of fish-eaters.

Half-past four o’clock. Still the solitary tokuls, with fishing implements and sürtuks. From S.E. by S., a short tract to S. The natives are of a friendly disposition, and laughed immoderately, when the sailors, among whom our Abu Hashis play the principal part, imitated the cry and laughter of the women. By the short stakes, which are already sufficiently known to us, we perceive that their icthyophagism has a flesh-side. They also use the word matta (lord and king) when they address us. It may, therefore be a borrowed word among them; it is said also to be used in Habesh. A quarter before five o’clock, from S.S.W. to S. by E. A miserable village, with tobacco-plantations, on the left shore, but the divine smoke rising close by, asserts the old attractive power of meat. We stop for a moment, at five o’clock, at the right shore, as if we were about to land, but the drum is beat, and the tired crew must again to the rope. S.E. by S. The village at the right shore, before which a little sycamore hangs over the river, is better built, and its several magazines testify that the people apply themselves to agriculture. Half-past five o’clock. At the upper end of the village the river winds in an arch S.E. by E. We see continually doum-palms in the forest of the left shore, whereon a village rises.

At last we are again close to the main stream, and near the Island of Buko. At sunset we halt at the right shore S.S.E. We see from hence the trees near which, a few days ago, we lay at anchor by the village of Buko, and also the village itself, but separated from it by land, and our gohr,—the presumed river, winds to the right.

The Liènns dwell here; and the interpreter already dismissed, Gùmberi, who had left us in Berize, the capital of the Bambers, came to us again. Clothing appears here to be the privilege only of the chiefs, for Gùmberi was obliged to take off his red shirt, it being against the Ethiopian regulations about dress, and he was asked whether he was a sheikh. (I use here, as throughout my book, the word sheikh of the Arabic language, as the most significant in analogous circumstances.) There are many doum-palms here, especially young copse, upon which the sailors pounce, and take the leaves to make cords of them. I see, to my sorrow, that they do not even spare the narrow convoluted hearts, which are four to five feet long. The leaves are plucked, laid in bundles upon a stone, and worked with a stick, till they are split into fibres; then they are again twisted together, sorted anew, and laid, like coarse hemp, in the sun to dry. The very same process takes place with the inside bark of various trees. I got, subsequently, in the country of the Shilluks, a small handful of flax, which, according to my Tshauss Marian, was prepared from the bark of the Baobàb: this tree is called in the Nuban language, Omràh; its fruit, however, Tabeldi. It is whiter than flax, shining like raw silk, and feels exactly like the latter.

7th February.—The beating of the doum-leaves goes on again at daybreak, as if the crew wanted to acquire enormous treasures by them in Khartùm. It appears as if we shall remain here to-day, on account of the doum-palms and hunting. Our encampment is an old bean-field, from which my servants brought me, in a very short time, a number of beans, quite young, to eat as a salad. Unfortunately I must begin to be sparing of my vinegar, for it is truly welcome to me in these regions, as the most refreshing restorative, although it causes thirst afterwards. I have almost entirely renounced meat, and live principally on coffee, biscuit and uèka. The people cannot subsist without this dried bamie, and therefore my men have laid in a plentiful stock. Rubbed to a meal on the murhaka, I have it boiled to a thick pap, with onions and the pepper of the country, (fillfill bèlladi), and I afterwards pour vinegar over it. I remarked this morning that Arnaud noted 82° atmospheric moisture, although the hygrometer has entirely left off working. I made him comprehend that this was somewhat too much here; he took the thing, however, as a bagatelle, and said that it would rectify itself afterwards!

The race of the Liènns, who dwell here, is called Kikin, and the Tshièrrs live opposite. The Liènns are friendly, and even sociable: they allow themselves to be joked with, and take the blows with reeds, which the sailors deal them, as play; but do not venture to return them. Though these people are inclined generally to jesting, and merry scenes often take place with our wags, during which the former are a pattern of good humour, yet they still remain extremely mistrustful in barter. It is not till they have grasped the beads firmly in their hands, that they let the goods go which are to be given for them. I remark that the number of the stippled lines on their forehead is usually from three to five; we see many also with quite a smooth forehead. Their weapons are better than those of the Elliàbs, and they exhibit, on the whole, more wealth, not only by their ornaments, which, indeed, per se, are insignificant, but, in particular, by a certain plumpness of body, denoting better nourishment.

They bring us baskets, very neatly plaited, of split bamboo reeds, square at the top, and protruding spherically at the bottom. I get some bows and arrows, perfectly similar to those of Bari. The arrows, with wooden or bone points, are principally only destined for the chase, as also the spears, with barbs. Iron is dear here, and they did not like, therefore, to sell their javelins, some specimens of which I had acquired previously. They tell us that there are several lions in the neighbouring Haba, and want to prevent us from hunting on that account. We remained on land to-night, with just confidence in the good disposition of the people, as we had done previously among the Elliàbs, and set sentinels on the shore.

8th February.—I repaired early this morning to the forest, and returned in two hours, just as Arnaud was setting out, in company with Suliman Kashef and his men. Suliman altered his mind suddenly, alleging, as a pretext, the heat; and Arnaud also, who, before sunrise, was going to slaughter lions and tigers, composed himself very submissively to return. The doum-palms, if they do not form a single species, have a meagre appearance, and but little height; the doum-copse, on the contrary, stands very luxuriantly, and measures sixty fingers’ breadth in a fan. The negroes have really no dome-fruit left, and the elephants may have had the beginning of it, and the gleanings. The poison-trees are unusually large here.

A tree attracted my attention, by its size and light-coloured branches, similar to those of the sycamore. Unfortunately it had lost, like the baobàb, its leaves, except a few. The ends of its boughs, from which the leaves develope themselves, have buds similar to those of the chesnut-trees. Mariàn says that this tree is called Emeddi, and is present on all the mountains of Nuba. According to him it has small flowers, and little fruits of a reddish colour. These are as large as clusters of grapes, and hang together in the same manner, only somewhat looser, are very sweet and eaten. The elephant-tree (in the language of the Nubas Tihl, or also Or Omul—Or, tree, omul, elephant) stood in abundant verdure, with long young fruits. As I now hear, its fruit is eaten by the Nubas only in case of necessity. If we consider this tree, with its shady roof of leaves and its magnificent long clusters of flowers and fruits, we feel inclined to look upon it as the Persea, or arbor cœlestis of the hieroglyphics, and not the leafless baobàb, which is mostly a ruin without shade. In Kordofàn, the Or Omul or Tihl sheds, moreover, its leaves, as the beautifully foliated Emeddi does here.

Another tree pleased me, which was covered with white flowers, as if with snow. The small, pointed, and succulent leaves are something like those of the pear-tree, as well as the tree itself. Four white leaves are arranged around eighteen long blue stamina. The fruit is said to be as large as an egg, and is eaten. The tree is called döbker, and is also indigenous in Nuba. Among the mimosas we remarked only talle; sunt seems not to present itself at all in these upper regions. Nearly all the wood of these trees is soft, and was felled to be worked into pulleys and other things for the vessels. As the bark of the muddus-tree is better than all the others for ropes, and does not appear on the great Nile, it was eagerly sought for. I found also some cotton-trees with small leaves, in the Haba, which lies tolerably high, and presents an extensive view. Honey is found here in the ground, and on the trees, but the little cakes contain only a small quantity. A large durra-field in the Haba lies, on the whole, high, and falls away to E. and S.; the soil is strongly mixed with sand. It must rain here, therefore, for a long time, and continuously, as the powerful growth of the trees bespeaks, because otherwise durra, even were it ever so rapid in coming to maturity, could not thrive without artificial irrigation.

The Tshièrrs live in friendship with the Liènns, whose language they use, and have the very same insignia of race on their foreheads. Wherever there are boundaries, such as the river here, then there appears jealousy and discord. A little slave of Selim Capitan’s begged to be allowed to throw into the water the other boy, who was not, like himself, a Tshièrr, but a Liènn, because he dwelt on the other side of the river. In other respects both these tribes live in peace; and yesterday a Tshièrr brought us a young slave-girl purchased from the Liènns, and she was bought in exchange by Suliman Kashef. We have already become too intimate with the natives by our two days’ abode for the Turks not to commence civilising them after their manner. At the head stands Selim Capitan, who is really earnest about the matter; at his side, Suliman Kashef, who is not behind the worthy son of Crete in cultivation, and likes laughing and amusement. The thermometer had this morning 20°, noon until three o’clock, 27° to 29°, and after sunset 27° Reaumur.

9th February.—At half-past seven o’clock this morning we leave our encampment, and go by the rope E.S.E., and soon S.E. A summer village lies at the right shore, and an island in the water, which is low and covered with green vegetables. Two tokuls are upon it, surrounded with high fish-baskets and hedges of cut simsim, which appears to be dried in this way. I remark on the island as well as on the steep disrupt shores, that the lower thick layer of earth consists of black mould, whilst the middle stratum is red with iron particles, and the upper one strongly impregnated with sand. The arable land here appears not to arise from a general deposition, but has its commencement from the slime of a lake, and the remains of a subjacent vegetation for its formation. The north wind has set in, and we navigate round the island in S.W., S.E., and S., and sail at eight o’clock S. by E. Immediately afterwards S.S.W., a small island before the forest on the left shore. Eight o’clock, S.E. Here the island will soon end. Then to S.; solitary farm-yards on the right and left on the low shores; cultivation before the rising Haba. A quarter before nine o’clock, S.S.W. The left shore is covered with young dome-palms, and a large widely scattered village ascends gradually with the shore to the height of the Haba, in which we remark a number of large dome-palms. The margin of the shore stretches flat along the river, and before it lies a completely shallow island, or peninsula, whereon a quantity of fishing implements are lying about. Nine o’clock S., then S.S.E., and S.E. Right and left, the level land is well cultivated with durra, simsim, and especially lubiën.

The wind changes after nine o’clock to E. We furl the sails, and halt at half-past nine o’clock, at the left shore, after we had first gone a short tract to E. by the rope. There is a very little isle in the river, and near the trees on the left shore a hamlet, under which the edge of the shore is also cultivated. From deck we perceive five other villages, of which one is large, at a slight distance from the water. The Haba retreats for an hour. At the right shore are two villages, and the Haba is still further distant.

The people of the Lienns are, on the whole, poor in ornaments and weapons, although individuals carry two or three spears, and a bow with arrows, without quivers, in the left hand. They have the heads of the spears generally turned towards the ground, which was not the case further up. This is perhaps rather a sign of friendly sentiments than their usual custom. They fear, as I saw yesterday and the day before, even the smacking of the great, long whips, that the sailors have made from bark for their amusement. They like to look at the beating of the palm-leaves, and then the sailors cannot forbear dealing cracking blows right and left, with the dome-leaves, and running after them. The Liènns understand a joke, and laugh, run away, and return immediately again to let themselves be cudgelled anew. They are great children, who are happy at seeing us and our doings, and playing with the soldiers, although the jests of the latter are often rude, and at times even end with plunder.

Ten o’clock.—We proceed with the libàhn E. by S. Half-past ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W. At the left lie four villages, tolerably close together, and on the right rises, at a quarter of an hour distant, a considerable village between trees, on the gentle height of the Haba; before it a large level field descends to the edge of the river. Soon again to the left round to S. by E. A crowd of natives, amongst whom are also some coloured red, welcome us from all sides. Our gohr is not above fifty paces broad, but has a strong fall. Nothing is yet to be discovered of the main stream, and we begin now to doubt in our very tedious voyage, whether we did see on the 6th instant our old anchorage at the island of Buko. A quarter before eleven o’clock, S.E. by S. Not far from the right shore, a large village, near which we hear the lowing of herds. The shore is cultivated, and we see there some magazine tokuls, and whilst we are going S. by E., we perceive from the deck another large city in the Haba. Opposite, on the left shore, some tokuls, and a numerous herd of cows.

Eleven o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. and E.S.E. Half-past eleven. From E.N.E. to S.E. At twelve o’clock we stop near some tokuls on the right shore, to allow the crew to eat. The upper boundary of the Bodshos, who follow the before-mentioned Kikins, is in the neighbourhood, and the Karboràhs begin here, who also belong, with the first named tribe, to the nation of the Liènns. They dwell on both sides of the river, and live at war with each other. In a quarter of an hour we move on again, and go in short bends S. by E., E.S.E., S.E., and S.S.W. From the deck—four villages on the right, and three on the left. Half-past twelve o’clock. For a finger’s length to S.E., and then S and S.W.; a quarter before one to S. One o’clock, S.S.E. On the left two villages seen from the deck; on the right an island, covered with high grass. We must think no more of an island of Buko, for this gohr is said by the negroes to lead up to the mountains; and I had therefore heard quite correctly, at the very beginning, near the Kofon of the Elliàbs and Bohrs, where this very same thing was said plainly enough.

If we suppose that we shall again be connected with other arms of the Nile, for we were near such a one on the 6th inst., which I still hold to be that of the island of Buko, our return voyage, with the present waste of time, might become more difficult than is expected. We should be obliged to wait for the commencement of the hariff (rainy season), or to seek to regain King Làkono’s sympathy, which we have forfeited. The want of good bread-corn, already beginning to be felt, is the only thing that makes me fear the crew would not then be induced to follow further the White Stream beyond Bari.

The Abu Hashiff of Suliman Kashef proclaimed this morning a punishment of five hundred blows of the cudgel to any soldier or sailor who should be found to have delayed slaughtering his goats or sheep till to-morrow. They had collected together at different times, by purchase, theft, and robbery, several beasts, whom they were fattening with durra, to sell them in Khartùm.

Sand-banks also appear with the increase in width of the gohr, and render the navigation difficult. A quarter before two o’clock, a short tract, S.S.W. and W.S.W. Two o’clock, W. by S. A broad gohr flows here from our arm to S.E., and makes the land at our left a large island. We go, however, up the stream, and wind W.S.W., where we halt at the right shore. It is asserted very positively that we have navigated up and down that broad gohr flowing from here, and that therefore the continued ascending in the gohr, in which we are at this moment, and which also is becoming broader, has no object. It matters not, however, whether we are blind and do not see, or whether we see as we wish, so that we only go again downwards. Our river arm has suddenly here again a width of three hundred paces. This, as well as the depth of the water, speaks, certainly, in favour of the sailors’ opinion, that we are again on the main stream. The supreme council would fain, of course, assent to this opinion, but, to my great astonishment, I hear it is very much feared that we shall lose our way in another stream territory, and not come out at all by Khartùm. In order to prevent our returning by the very same road in our gohr, I propose to navigate up even as far as the mountains, to set ourselves right, or at least to find some memorials, such as a village or natives that we had seen previously. Our men, however, put no more confidence in what the latter say, and the crocodiles and hippopotami give us no intelligence. The blue-green broken corals which we had found already in the kingdom of Bari, are still the same here, and are preferred by far to those of a white colour.

At half-past two o’clock a north-east wind set in, which blew the wise council asunder. A short tract to E.S.E. by the rope, and we sail then S.W. by S. in a flat arch to S.W. with two miles’ course. The shores are low and only three to four feet high. The green forest developes itself behind the slender, half-dried reeds. A quarter after three o’clock. From S.W. with a short bend to E.S.E.; at half-past three o’clock E. by N., and at four o’clock S.W. by W. The shores have been for a long time without cultivation, and only here and there we see some negroes, but yet there are two large villages, a quarter of an hour distant from the left shore.

It is scarcely four o’clock when Fadl tells me from the mast that he sees a high mountain W.S.W. I remark its peak also immediately from the deck. To judge by the outline of it, it appears to be the Nerkanjin, but I do not wish it, as I would rather see another beautiful mountain country. Whilst we are sailing S.S.W. a gohr issues on the right from our mysterious river to W.N.W., and makes, therefore, the land at our right, a large island. What a happy combination of natural canals, and what nations may be still drinking of this water! A quarter after four o’clock, S.E. by S. Right and left a village on the shores. There are low tokuls with clay walls and square doors: the roof consists of leaves of the dome palm. Their large baskets are also composed of the hearts of these trees. The village of the right shore has many open tokuls or cattle-stalls, and enters tolerably far into the land, where we observe several herds. Half-past four o’clock. From S.E., with the broad beautiful bend of the river to S. by E. At five o’clock we stop opposite a large village on the right shore, where many natives are collected. The thermometer, 20°, 28°, 30°, and 27° Reaumur.

10th February.—At the first sight of the morning dawn we heard the great wooden kettle-drum (nogàra) sounding opposite in the large village of Karborah, which instrument is beaten for amusement, as well as for driving out the cattle. The watch-houses of the cow-herdsmen stand in the centre of the enormous herd; the employment of these men may be taken in turns like that of the night-watch. The tribe of the Karboràhs, who, as I have said before, are a branch of the Liènns, and independent, is here likewise not entirely stippled on the forehead. Yesterday evening we traded with them, and I received many a pretty thing, principally of iron; for they dwell nearer the mountains, the source of iron wealth. Thus, I purchased ivory bracelets, with black streaks; bows of bamboo, with iron ends, and narrow bands of iron; ropes of bark, which, according to Mariàn, are from the muddus-tree, and the strongest; some hair-lines, said to be made from giraffes; thin iron chains, which they sling round their ribs; but I could neither see a kettle-drum nor an antelope-horn for blowing. It was with much trouble that I got a surprisingly beautiful little he-goat, with a head like a gazelle, although the other little goats have compressed noses. Selim Capitan was looked upon here also as our matta; and they wanted to take by force a large elephant’s tooth, which I had already bought, to present to him, not returning, however, my thick glass beads. Several Nile buffaloes are found in the river—a sign in the present season of the year, that agriculture is diligently attended to in the vicinity.

At eight o’clock, we set off from S. to S.W.; a quarter before nine o’clock, from S.E. by S. to S.S.E.; on the left a hamlet. A quarter after nine o’clock, S.E.; and we sail with the good east wind immediately again S. and S.S.W., and make three miles. Half-past nine o’clock, S.E. Cultivation at the right side, and a watch-house in the tobacco plantations. It seems as if tobacco were considered, in the opinion of our people, an article of luxury which may be taken whenever they like, without injustice. The tobacco plantations are sheltered here also with reed-mats erected on sticks three feet high, as a protection against the scorching solar rays. Immediately again S. Dancing, clapping, huzzaing, and young girls and women singing on the right shore.

A quarter before ten o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. The wind is very contrary, and drives us together to the right shore, where we make use of the rope for a short time. The merry girls and women are adorned with rings and necklaces; only the head is shaved, as in the other places, and they wear no rings in their ears. They have the sitting-skin already mentioned behind, and the narrow rahàt before. Moreover, most of them are armed with bows and arrows, probably for self-defence in the absence of the men. A quarter after ten o’clock. We sail again to S. We remark no villages, and yet there are several people on the right shore; the habitations seem, therefore, to be up the country in the Haba. It was not till after a quarter of an hour that a large village appeared: soon afterwards a second, the inhabitants of which have collected on the right shore. About eleven o’clock we double a little island on the right, and at the left a broad gohr, with a strong fall, flows in from S.E.; near it lies a still smaller island, like a grass-shield, bulging out in the middle, which we also leave on the left. Half-past eleven o’clock. From S. Libàhn, E.S.E. Herds right and left; shady roofs on four stakes. My men have bought a large wooden drum for me, and throw it down the shore; but several natives, who are against the sale, jump after it, and take it back by force; it seems to be the property of the community. Twelve o’clock. From E.S.E to S.S.W. In the background an island ascends.

The negroes wear frequently small animals’ skins on their heads, which hang down over the nape of their necks. The sun has as injurious an effect here on the former as on the vertebral columns of the latter. A quarter of an hour later to S., and our corpulent friend, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward from S.W., blue and boldly, from the background over the above-named island, near which a gohr flows from W.S.W. At half-past twelve o’clock we lie to at the right shore, near the same, to let the men rest and eat. I could not tell what made me so hot, but the thermometer shews just 33°, although this morning it was only 20°, as usual. We only stop twenty minutes, and the poor crew must again to the rope, S.S.E. After one o’clock, we halt a second time near a little island, the narrowest arm of which we soon follow, on account of the greater depth. The current in this canal, which has fifty to sixty paces, is uncommonly strong. Two o’clock.—From S.S.E. to S.W. by S., and immediately to the left S. by E., and right S.S.W. A quarter after two o’clock.—A magnificent east wind: we shall make four miles to S. by W. and S.S.W.; but it slackens immediately after casting out the log, and only refreshing breezes breathe through the windows. In order to get from this place, we assist the hoisted sails by libàhn. A small island before us closes the narrow reach of our course, which our ship, until half-past two, nearly fills up. Three o’clock, S.E. by S, and on the right round a corner S.S.W., a few paces, then immediately left to S., where we stop a moment. “El Bah’r kebir!” our people are shouting on all sides; for they take the broad stream, wherein we are now sailing, for the White Nile itself. An arm separates from it to N.N.W.; the last land on the right is therefore also an island. We go by the left shore of the main stream, where it winds from S.S.W. to E.N.E. It is called here, as up the river, Kirboli, and both sides of it are inhabited by the Elliàbs; therefore there is no doubt that it is the main stream. The great island just mentioned is called Tui. We proceed at four o’clock to S.S.W., and Mount Nerkanjin remains in a south-westerly direction as previously. Half an hour later, we go from S.S.W. to S.; still no village, nor familiar tree appears; even the sailors begin again to doubt—for aught I care,—only forward; so that at last it must be resolved to wait for the rainy season. At half-past four o’clock S.S.E.; we halt on the sand, and no one appears to be sure of his point, least of all Arnaud, who cannot comprehend his own journal.

Every doubt is removed, after considerable questioning of the natives; we return a quarter before five o’clock from this ascent, and stop above the Kièhr, which we had come up from the White Nile, in order to examine it, even to its issue, and had taken hitherto for an independent mountain stream. At six o’clock we go to the neighbouring island, between the Nile and the gohr Kièhr. At sunset 29°; this will be a hot night.

11th February.—We remain near the large island of Tui, make a section of the Nile, and find the main stream below the bay, where it divides into three arms, a hundred and twenty-eight mètres broad. It is called here Landofò; the Kokis inhabit its left shore. The Liénns possess the right, together with our island, and the shores of the gohrs, between which is the island of Tobo. Only a few of the latter tattoo the forehead; some, the shoulders, as far as the upper part of the arm; and others, the upper part of the back: some have also coloured themselves with ochre.

12th February—Observations are to be made also to-day, in order to start in the afternoon. I purchase for a few large glass beads, the first fine elephant’s tooth, and I design it, being the largest of all, as a cabinet specimen for my country. Now, at last, it is evident to every one, that we are navigating back our old road. It is fortunate for me that I am able to set up continuously and write my journal, affected as I am with fever all the day after the hot nights. At half-past two o’clock we bear off, and reach at half-past four the end of the island of Tobo, near which we land at sunset by the left shore, having made four miles and a half with a strong current, and the stroke of the oar. Thermometer, in the morning, 20°; noon, 32°; evening, 30°.

13th February.—We are to set out half an hour after sunrise; in the meantime the men are slaughtering in haste some cows, which natives of uncommon size have brought us. We do not proceed, therefore, till seven o’clock, in a north-westerly direction. The river makes such short bends that we bound every moment against the shore, notwithstanding the very strong fall, and we tear off also a corner of the loose earth. This, as well as the carelessness in steering, causes the vessel to draw water continually. Nine o’clock. We stop at the left shore, near some dome-palms; the water is a little deeper here, as if a broad arm of the Nile, from E.S.E., joins with our narrow one, or we with it. Here also they bring us cotton for sale. Eleven o’clock. We go on with a favourable east wind. The tokuls for dwellings are the peristyles already described. At noon we see several hippopotami, some of them real monsters; these may remain here pretty constantly, being perhaps their hunting district, because the river is, on the whole, of great depth in this place.

We get on a sand-bank, close to which several crocodiles are encamped. The first of these beasts (in truth a fearful leader) attacks the men who are pushing the vessel off the sand-bank; then a soldier jumps overboard, armed only with a hatchet (Chadàn), boldly meets it, and really drives it back into the water. At this moment shots were fired by the soldiers on board the vessels at the whole congregation, but so badly aimed that not one remained dead on the spot; they all made a slow retreat into the water, and we found afterwards, in the moist sand on the shore, fifty-three of their eggs lying together all of a layer. The shells were a little broken, as if cracked, which may be caused by the sun and the humid sand. At first I thought, indeed, that these eggs might be near hatching; but I was persuaded of their freshness, when the crew eat them, roasted in ashes, with much goût. I tried also a little one, and found the usual taste of eggs, only it seemed to me particularly dry, and the white was more spongy and not compact. My servants had preserved eight of the eggs, which I put among those found in the neighbourhood of the crocodile shot by Suliman Kashef. I see that the latter are smaller, but thicker and rounder than the first-named. In general they do not exceed the size of a goose’s egg, and differ from birds’ eggs, especially by both ends being uniformly arched. When I compared these eggs subsequently, in Khartùm, with another one, found by me lying openly in the sand of the shore of the united stream, on our journey to Sennaar, I found the latter to be considerably larger than those of the White Stream. Without wishing to decide by this on the different species of crocodiles, I remark that the people here well know that there are such distinctions. At one o’clock, we halt at the right shore, near a pastoral village, but do not find the expected oxen. About five o’clock we push off again, and a Nile arm divides to N.E.; then comes another from S.E., and winds E.S.E. This is the arm, according to the general assertion, which we previously ascended.

14th February.—We at eight o’clock, navigate, the gohr, which is new to us, and goes from N. to N.W. Right and left dwell the Elliàbs; also on both shores of the gohr from whence we came. The Tshiérrs follow the Elliàbs; their boundary is determined by some dome-palms. The former made, yesterday, a marauding and murderous attack on the island-land enclosed by the gohr, and killed several men; they were, however, put to flight by the Elliàbs, who hastily collected, and were driven over the water, by which they left three dead. The Elliàbs mean now to make a great war against them, and would not, on that account, sell us any of the few spears which these poor pastoral people possess. The Kièhrs dwell, according to the inquiries made by Selim Capitan over the island, on the right shore of the Nile arm, which we ascend, the river being also called there Kièhr, as we have already mentioned. This circumstance may have led Selim wrong, for the Bohrs dwell there, as I ascertained with the assistance of my Jengàh. After a quarter of an hour, we again stop close to the left shore, where our river-arm, called here the Kir, flows to N.W. Hardly any people come to us, and the few we see are dirty, covered with ashes, and without ornaments. Their spears, small in number, are however kept polished, as the negroes generally clean carefully every thing pertaining to weapons, and iron decorations, except when they have coloured red with ochre their entire bodies, and then every thing they carry on them and with them is dyed with the same colour. We see clouds, foreboders of rain, almost uninterruptedly in the sky. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; from twelve to three o’clock not more than 30°, at sunset 29°. The Frenchmen add still more degrees, and see also more, in order to frighten their readers at such a country.

We go, after a short halt, to the right shore, where there is a large cattle village, with many sleeping-places and plastered bee-hives, or tokuls, their tops being lightly covered with straw or reeds: large herds there. We navigate, with the stern of the vessel foremost, although the captain is on deck, towards N.N.W., and shall halt immediately at the left shore near a little pastoral village. The red colour of the large heaps of ashes arises only from the burnt cows’ dung. 3 o’clock. Selim Capitan has just returned after a long voyage downwards. No water; therefore libàhn again, back into the gohr traversed previously. I procured to-day, from the herdsmen, four heavy breakers of beads or hassaeis of ebony, without ornament; and I see also here old woollen morions, of which I possess already one specimen. The Frenchmen still keep their windows hung with curtains or closed, so as not to be disturbed by the exterior world. At half-past four o’clock we are so fortunate as to enter our old gohr E.S.E., and come soon to the old encampment (I am again ill, as I was then,) turn the bow foremost, go N.W., and stop at sunset to N. at the left shore. I purchase a miserable little stool, which is rare here, from the Elliàbs.

15th February.—I have received, from Selim Capitan, a Bohr, as drogman, but he will do nothing at first, for he is too hungry. The river flows at half-past six, and up to seven o’clock, continually to N., with declinations to N.W., where a small island appears on the right. Again N.; on the left a large pastoral village of the name of Uadir, belonging to the Elliàbs, or as our Bohrs call them, Alliababe. The Bohrs possess the right shore, between whom and the Elliàbs eternal war prevails. N.N.W.: on the left a little island. Half-past seven o’clock. Over the dry straw of the shore on the left green copse is sprouting, the tree-tops of the neighbouring forest. Some drops of rain fell to-night on Feïzulla Capitan’s fiery brandy-nose, as if on a hot stone, while he was sleeping on deck; now, also, I feel some drops on my cool, pale nose. A fine prospect! for neither are our corn magazines well covered, nor our cabins air-tight above, thanks to Selim Capitan’s negligence. From N.N.E. immediately again N.N.W. Eight o’clock. Right and left a forest, preceded by a narrow border of the shore. A little island on the right displays its green margin of reeds and creepers, as we see in all of them. We halt at the sandy right shore: the left is fertile soil, which is also the case on the right, though only for a short tract. Suliman Kashef’s mallem was buried here the preceding year, and Suliman visited now his grave under the trees. Opposite to us lies the tolerably large pastoral village of Kelagò, a portion of which only I draw, because it is like all the others. Thibaut also has applied himself to the ivory trade; he has just acquired three elephants’ teeth. Half-past nine o’clock. Away to N. and N.W.; at ten o’clock, a small pastoral village on the left, with ash-grey people. The forest extends at one side, and was refreshing to us, with its various tints of green. Here and there the sun breaks through the clouds, and casts picturesque gleams of light around; I can even enjoy it, for I feel myself again better after the very strong perspiration I had in the night.

The Bohrs have lines on their foreheads like the Elliàbs, not waved, however, like the latter, but straight, and also broader. The drogman has five, which appear to consist of double lines. A quarter after ten o’clock, N.N.W.; to the left an islet, with flowering creepers and reeds. We are welcomed with a song, for this is the usual custom with the tribes below Bari. One leads the choir, and the chorus joins continually with “jok, jok, are o jok;” but they have several refrains, among which their “abande jok” should not be forgotten. At eleven o’clock N., uninterruptedly, like our direction, with the former deviations to W. and E., the eternal enumeration of which would only be tiresome. I know enough of the previous ascent to be able to control my French companions. We stop at half-past twelve o’clock at the right shore by the Haba, and push off at half-past one again to N.N.W. The nation of the Bors, or Bohrs, is likewise poor, and nothing was to be purchased from them but some teeth, which Matta Selim Capitan appropriated to himself. The tribes hitherto seen have, on the whole, the same sort of weapons, although some arms are only similar; everywhere we see solitary spears, similar to those of Bari. It seems generally that all iron work is manufactured in that country, according to the taste of the different tribes, which is frequently indeed very bad, and sent away from thence; many, however, may have been introduced by intercourse with nations dwelling at their side. It is a cool north-west wind.

Thermometer, Sunrise 23° to 24°. Noon 27°. A quarter of an hour later an island five minutes long shews itself to the left in the middle of the river. We go N.N.W. At the foot of this island, another one, small and low, and, as it appeared to me at first, cultivated; but this, however, was not subsequently confirmed. Our course passes between yellow and light-green copse and other trees. Only here and there, there is still a dome-palm, quite small or young; yet they probably serve for the canoes here, for I observed several of these boats on the shore. Two o’clock. N.W. An island in the centre of the river which we leave at our right; then N.N.W. I have convinced myself, by new ant-hills, that these insects, which are somewhat larger here than the common ant, raise the earth from a depth where it is entirely wet, black, and without admixture of sand (such as on the level of the Nile, and in its neighbourhood), to make their buildings durable. On the other hand, I remember the fallen-down craters of the ant-hills among the Dinkas. It is now evident to me that they openly seek a protection against the weather by getting under the trees when there are any in their neighbourhood. The shores shew here already a little oxyde earth. Half past two o’clock. From N.N.E. to N., whereupon we halt at the right shore; for the Frenchmen want to go hunting.

16th February.—Thermometer yesterday evening, 24°; this morning, 19°. I made an excursion into the interesting forest: it lies upon slightly-elevated sandy bottom, on which the dome-palms do not grow so luxuriantly as in the country of the Tshièrrs, where I counted sixty lances on one leaf, whilst here there are only from forty-two to forty-six. I had preserved previously a vegetable, though not knowing the nature of its root: here the sailors grubbed up some of the same sort, and I saw tubers on them three feet and a quarter thick, running towards the upper part to a round form, but appearing to branch out below like enormous roots. Slender roots shoot from these main tubers, and on them rises an insignificant-looking vegetable, a foot high, covered at the top with small oval pale-green leaves, like those of the box-tree: the clusters of gossamer-flowers are of a yellowish colour. It is called “Irg-el-moje” (water-root)—in Nuban, “Otto;” is very full of juice, but of a nauseous, sweet taste, and is sold in Kahira. The suckers, properly speaking, must by virtue of the soil here, go to a great depth. Our liquorice tastes perhaps better, owing to its dryness. The large specimens were cut to pieces and torn, by reason of their softness, and in consequence of the greediness of our crew, who are like children, and yet laugh at the blacks. I took a specimen for myself. The beautiful red peas or vetches were also found. This vegetable was gathered; but no one at first knew the foliage, until I discovered at last a few slender tendrils of vetches, which were still green, and hung together with the dry peas in the pods, which were burst open. The blacks and men of Belled Sudàn make use of them as an ornament. They are small, hard, and rough, like beads, have a black eye, with a white and scarcely visible line, and are called hap-el-arùss (bride-grain). I have in my possession several of them. The anduràb or enderàb, a large tree with willow-like laciniated bark, is very common here: it has little green clusters of flowers on its lower branches, hanging in wild disorder; small round fruit, at present green, and willow-like, yet truncated leaves. Besides many other trees, such as talles, geïlids, and others, there is also a very large tree, now thoroughly leafless, deserving notice, from its short prickles, and little apples. Mariàn tells me that it has small round leaves, which make their appearance in the hariff, together with a white flower, and that it is called, in the Nuban language, dakuin. The fruit is not eaten, but gathered green, and strung round the necks of children, as a preventive against fever and other diseases.

We do not perceive grass anywhere, and therefore there are not any cattle or human beings; but there may be, perhaps, many wild beasts. Wild buffaloes, as I had been assured previously in the upper Haba, and several of which animals Suliman Kashef and Capitan Mohammed Agà, the Arnaut, with the halberdiers of the former, pretend to have seen, are said to be frequently found here, and larger than those of Egypt. We are more inclined to believe this assertion, because it is well known to all our blacks that such beasts often appear among the Shilluks, Hassanïes, and elsewhere. This animal is called “Gamùs el galla.”

This morning, unfortunately, a soldier was stabbed by a Bohr with a spear, because, as I suspect, he was about to take it away from the latter according to the favourite Belesh manner, that is, without paying for it. We were magnanimous, and did not take any revenge on another Bohr, who was dragged to us instead of the proper criminal. So likewise I see the voluntary slaves of Selim Capitan chained together on the shore. At one o’clock we leave our beautiful landing-place. On the left a little village appears, then also a Haba; but it is too scantily furnished with trees, and soon retreats ashamed before the magnificent forest opposite. After some minutes a reed island divides the river. Then we proceed with W.N.W., our sails swollen by the east wind, and leave it to the right whilst we go more westerly, but soon again N. The burning of the reeds has an unpleasing effect to the eye, but the country rises new-born like a phœnix from the ashes. The island is fifteen minutes long. Half-past one o’clock. From N.E. by E. to W. by S. A hamlet in the Haba to the right of the shore, which is here high and precipitously disrupt, owing to the narrow pass, lies picturesquely. A quarter before two o’clock, N.W., on the right a little island. At two o’clock from N.E. to N.W. in the bend, but the Haba has disappeared. A quarter after two o’clock N.N.E.; on the right an island ten minutes long. At the end of it N.E.; on the left an old village containing tokuls with six to seven indentations on the roofs. The Haba, with several dhellèbs, has approached us on the avulsed high shore; it shews the genuine marks of the ancient or high shores. Half-past two o’clock, near the bend to N.W.; on the right many dhellèbs, which are not, however, of remarkable appearance, especially as the lower dry branches are upon them. A quarter before three o’clock. From the short E.N.E. tract to N.N.W. The forest on the right rises upon sandy deposits of downs, somewhat in the form of a hill. The sand was once deposited, perhaps, by an unusual inundation, on the underwood, and has remained there since that time. The shores are still intermixed with ochre here and there. A glistening long course before us towards N.N.W., such as we had not had for a long time, with the exception of the small inlets right and left; also a little island there. Thermometer 19° and 29° to 30°. Three o’clock. The Haba has retreated, yet N.N.W. On the left a small tokul village as before; immediately under it to the right E.N.E. and W.N.W., again a forest, the only break of the monotonous shores, islands, and villages. A quarter after three o’clock. From a short westerly direction to N.N.W. We halt at the right shore; perhaps Selim Capitan’s vessel draws water—yet, no; the French gentlemen had not come up.

A quarter after four o’clock: off again, and we go N.E. On the right side Bohrs, and on the left Elliàbs. Half-past four o’clock, N.W. The Haba on the right rises on downs; we see dome-palms also on it, but upon firm, dark earth, whilst the sand lies only on the surface. Moreover, these dome-palms are considerably higher than the dhellèbs. Violent storms cannot take place in these regions; I have never seen a single tree torn up by the wind. A quarter before five o’clock, from N.E. to N.N.W. The Haba remains and consoles us more than sufficiently for the arid shore, although green reeds and weeds struggle up here and there, and strike the roots deep into the vivifying water.

To N.N.W., a long row of tokuls appears in parade before us, without any other background than the horizon. On the right a narrow arm goes to E., and places the barren tokul-city on an island. In the bend from N.W. to W. The tokuls have, in part, the screen mentioned before, as the entrance; the sleeping-places in the neighbourhood are built of new reeds, and sixty tokuls without sleeping-places, and huts join them. This place, inhabited by Bohrs, is called Jemàhl. Immediately to the left also, by N.W, a tokul-village opposite; the lower walls, being proportionably high, are partly plastered with Nile slime. The knowledge of my drogman Joi is already at an end: he does not know the name of this long village, lying on the margin of the river like a crescent. Five o’clock from S.W. to N.E. by N. I remark the circumference of a red cone of ashes in the centre part of the broken shore: the reeds brush the vessel, and some of them fall on the plank before my window.

That custom of dung-fires for the encampment of the herds already mentioned, appears very ancient; for the earth deposited by the river lies from three to four feet high near them. About sunset we stop, on account of good neighbourhood, near a pastoral village on the right shore, where the river winds to N. The goats and sheep jump from the vessels with delight to the green grass on the shore. We hoped to get some oxen here, but not any were brought us.