THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES

VOLUME LXIX

THE

INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES.

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THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES

MAN AND
THE GLACIAL PERIOD

BY

G. FREDERICK WRIGHT

D. D., LL. D., F. G. S. A.

PROFESSOR IN OBERLIN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY
FORMERLY ASSISTANT ON THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
AUTHOR OF THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA.
LOGIC OF CHRISTIAN EVIDENCES, ETC.

WITH AN APPENDIX ON TERTIARY MAN

By PROF. HENRY W. HAYNES

FULLY ILLUSTRATED

SECOND EDITION

NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1895

Copyright, 1892,

By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.

Electrotyped and Printed
at the Appleton Press, U. S. A.

TO

JUDGE C. C. BALDWIN

PRESIDENT OF THE WESTERN RESERVE HISTORICAL SOCIETY
CLEVELAND
THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED
IN RECOGNITION OF
HIS SAGACIOUS AND UNFAILING INTEREST IN
THE INVESTIGATIONS WHICH HAVE MADE IT POSSIBLE

[PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.]

Since, as stated in the Introduction ([page 1]), the plan of this volume permitted only “a concise presentation of the facts,” it was impossible to introduce either full references to the illimitable literature of the subject or detailed discussion of all disputed points. The facts selected, therefore, were for the most part those upon which it was supposed there would be pretty general agreement.

The discussion upon the subject of the continuity of the Glacial period was, however, somewhat elaborate (see pages [106-121], [311], [324], [332]), and was presented with excessive respect for the authority of those who maintain the opposite view; all that was claimed ([page 110]) being that one might maintain the unity or continuity of the Glacial period “without forfeiting his right to the respect of his fellow-geologists.” But it already appears that there was no need of this extreme modesty of statement. On the contrary, the vigorous discussion of the subject which has characterized the last two years reveals a decided reaction against the theory that there has been more than one Glacial epoch in Quaternary times; while there have been brought to light many most important if not conclusive facts in favour of the theory supported in the volume.

In America the continuity of the Glacial period has been maintained during the past two years with important new evidence, among others by authorities of no less eminence and special experience in glacial investigations than Professor Dana,[A] Mr. Warren Upham,[B] and Professor Edward H. Williams, Jr.[C] Professor Williams’s investigations on the attenuated border of the glacial deposits in the Lehigh, the most important upper tributary to the Delaware Valley, Pa., are of important significance, since the area which he so carefully studied lies wholly south of the terminal moraine of Lewis and Wright, and belongs to the portion of the older drift which Professors Chamberlin and Salisbury have been most positive in assigning to the first Glacial epoch, which they have maintained was separated from the second epoch by a length of time sufficient for the streams to erode rock gorges in the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers from two hundred to three hundred feet in depth.[D] But Professor Williams has found that the rock gorges of the Lehigh, and even of its southern tributaries, had been worn down approximately to the present depth of that of the Delaware before this earliest period of glaciation, and that the gorges were filled with the earliest glacial débris.

[A] American Journal of Science, vol. xlvi, pp. 327, 330.

[B] American Journal of Science, vols, xlvi, pp. 114-121; xlvii, pp. 358-365; American Geologist, vols, x, pp. 339-362, especially pp. 361, 362; xiii, pp. 114, 278; Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. v, pp. 71-86, 87-100.

[C] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. v, pp. 13-16, 281-296; American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 33-36.

[D] See especially Chamberlin, in the American Journal of Science, vol. xlv, p. 192; Salisbury, in the American Geologist, vol. xi, p. 18.

A similar relation of the glacial deposits of the attenuated border to the preglacial erosion of the rock gorges of the Alleghany and upper Ohio Rivers has been brought to light by the joint investigations of Mr. Frank Leverett and myself in western Pennsylvania, in the vicinity of Warren, Pa., where, in an area which was affected by only the earliest glaciation, glacial deposits are found filling the rock channels of old tributaries to the Alleghany to a depth of from one hundred and seventy to two hundred and fifty feet, and carrying the preglacial erosion at that point very closely, if not quite, down to the present rock bottoms of all the streams. This removes from Professor Chamberlin a most important part of the evidence of a long interglacial period to which he had appealed; he having maintained[E] that “the higher glacial gravels antedated those of the moraine-forming epoch by the measure of the erosion of the channel through the old drift and the rock, whose mean depth here is about three hundred feet, of which perhaps two hundred and fifty feet may be said to be rock,” adding that the “excavation that intervened between the two epochs in other portions of the Alleghany, Monongahela, and upper Ohio valleys is closely comparable with this.”

[E] Bulletin 58 of the United States Geological Survey, p. 35; American Journal of Science, vol. xlv, p. 195.

These observations of Mr. Leverett and myself seem to demonstrate the position maintained in the volume ([page 218]), namely, that the inner precipitous rock gorges of the upper Ohio and its tributaries are mainly preglacial, rather than interglacial. The only way in which Professor Chamberlin can in any degree break the force of this discovery is by assuming that in preglacial times the present narrow rock gorges of the Alleghany and the Ohio were not continuous, but that (as indicated in the present volume on [page 206]) the drainage of various portions of that region was by northern outlets to the Lake Erie basin, leaving, on this supposition, the cols between two or three drainage areas to be lowered in glacial or interglacial time.

On the theory of continuity the erosion of these cols would have been rapidly effected by the reversed drainage consequent upon the arrival of the ice-front at the southern shore of the Lake Erie basin. During all the time elapsing thereafter, until the ice had reached its southern limit, the stream was also augmented by the annual partial melting of the advancing glacier which was constantly bringing into the valley the frozen precipitation of the far north. The distance is from thirty to seventy miles, so that a moderately slow advance of the ice at that stage would afford time for a great amount of erosion before sufficient northern gravel had reached the region to begin the filling of the gorge.[F]

[F] See an elaborate discussion of the subject in its new phases by Chamberlin and Leverett, in the American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 247-283.

Mr. Leverett also presented an important paper before the Geological Society of America at its meeting at Madison, Wis., in August, 1893, adducing evidence which, he thinks, goes to prove that the post-glacial erosion in the earlier drift in the region of Rock River, Ill., was seven or eight times as much as that in the later drift farther north; while Mr. Oscar H. Hershey arrives at nearly the same conclusions from a study of the buried channels in northwestern Illinois.[G] But even if these estimates are approximately correct—which is by no means certain—they only prove the length of the Glacial period, and not necessarily its discontinuity.

[G] American Geologist, vol. xii, p. 314f. Other important evidence to a similar effect is given by Mr. Leverett, in an article on The Glacial Succession in Ohio, Journal of Geology, vol. i, pp. 129-146.

At the same time it should be said that these investigations in western Pennsylvania somewhat modify a portion of the discussion in the present volume concerning the effects of the Cincinnati ice-dam. It now appears that the full extent of the gravel terraces of glacial origin in the Alleghany River had not before been fully appreciated, since they are nearly continuous on the two-hundred-foot rock shelf, and are often as much as eighty feet thick. It seems probable, therefore, that the Alleghany and upper Ohio gorge was filled with glacial gravel to a depth of about two hundred and fifty or three hundred feet, as far down at least as Wheeling, W. Va. If this was the case, it would obviate the necessity of bringing in the Cincinnati ice-dam (as set forth in [pages 212-216]) to account directly for all the phenomena in that region, except as this obstruction at Cincinnati would greatly facilitate the silting up of the gorge. The simple accumulation of glacial gravel in the Alleghany gorge would of itself dam up the Monongahela at Pittsburg, so as to produce the results detailed by Professor White on [page 215].[H]

[H] For a full discussion of these topics, see paper by Professor B. C. Jillson, Transactions of the Academy of Science and Art of Pittsburg, December 8, 1893; G. F. Wright, American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 161-187; especially pp. 177, 178; The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xlv, pp. 184-198.

Of European authorities who have recently favoured the theory of the continuity of the Quaternary Glacial period, as maintained in the volume, it is enough to mention the names of Prestwich,[I] Hughes,[J] Kendall,[K] Lamplugh,[L] and Wallace,[M] of England; Falsan,[N] of France; Holst,[O] of Sweden; Credner[P] and Diener,[Q] of Germany; and Nikitin[R] and Kropotkin,[S] of Russia.[T] Among leading authorities still favouring a succession of Glacial epochs are: Professor James Geikie,[U] of Scotland; Baron de Geer,[V] of Sweden; and Professor Felix Wahnschaffe,[W] of Germany.

[I] Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society for August, 1887.

[J] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 241.

[K] Transactions of the Leeds Geological Association for February 10, 1893.

[L] Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, August, 1891.

[M] Fortnightly Review, November, 1893, p. 633; reprinted in The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xliv, p. 790.

[N] La Période glaciaire (Félix Alcan. Paris, 1889).

[O] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 242.

[P] Ibid., p. 241.

[Q] Ibid., p. 242.

[R] Congrès International d’Archéologie, Moscow, 1892.

[S] Nineteenth Century, January, 1894, p. 151, note.

[T] The volume The Glacial Geology of Great Britain and Ireland, edited from the unpublished MSS. of the late Henry Carvill Lewis (London, Longmans, Green & Co., 1894), adds much important evidence in favour of the continuity of the Glacial epoch; see especially pp. 187, 460, 461, 466.

[U] Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, vol. xxxvii, Part I, pp. 127-150.

[V] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 246.

[W] Forschungen zur deutschen Landes und Volkskunde von Dr. A. Kirchhoff. Bd. vi, Heft i.

When the first edition was issued, two years ago, there seemed to be a general acceptance of all the facts detailed in it which directly connected man with the Glacial period both in America and in Europe; and, indeed, I had studiously limited myself to such facts as had been so long and so fully before the public that there would seem to be no necessity for going again into the details of evidence relating to them. It appears, however, that this confidence was ill-founded; for the publication of the book seems to have been the signal for a confident challenge, by Mr. W. H. Holmes, of all the American evidence, with intimations that the European also was very likely equally defective.[X] In particular Mr. Holmes denies the conclusiveness of the evidence of glacial man adduced by Dr. Abbott and others at Trenton, N. J.; Dr. Metz, at Madisonville, Ohio; Mr. Mills, at Newcomerstown, Ohio; and Miss Babbitt, at Little Falls, Minn.

[X] Journal of Geology, vol. i, pp. 15-37, 147-163; American Geologist, vol. xi, pp. 219-240.

The sum of Mr. Holmes’s effort amounts, however, to little more than the statement that, with a limited amount of time and labour, neither he nor his assistants had been able to find any implements in undisturbed gravel in any of these places; and the suggestion of various ways in which he thinks it possible that the observers mentioned may have been deceived as to the original position of the implements found. But, as had been amply and repeatedly published,[Y] Professor J. D. Whitney, Professor Lucien Carr, Professor N. S. Shaler, Professor F. W. Putnam, of Harvard University, besides Dr. C. C. Abbott, all expressly and with minute detail describe finding implements in the undisturbed gravel at Trenton, which no one denies to be of glacial origin. In the face of such testimony, which had been before the public and freely discussed for several years, it is an arduous undertaking for Mr. Holmes to claim that none of the implements have been found in place, because he and his assistants (whose opportunities for observation had scarcely been one twentieth part as great as those of the others) failed to find any. To see how carefully the original observations were made, one has but to read the reports to Professor Putnam which have from time to time appeared in the Proceedings of the Peabody Museum and of the Boston Society of Natural History,, and which are partially summed up in the thirty-second chapter of Dr. Abbott’s volume on Primitive Industry.

[Y] Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History, vol. xxi, January 19, 1881; Report of the Peabody Museum, vol. ii, pp. 44-47; chap, xxxii of Abbott’s Primitive Industry; American Geologist, vol. xi, pp. 180-184.

In the case of the discovery at Newcomerstown, Mr. Holmes is peculiarly unfortunate in his efforts to present the facts, since, in endeavouring to represent the conditions under which the implement was found by Mr. Mills, he has relied upon an imaginary drawing of his own, in which an utterly impossible state of things is pictured. The claim of Mr. Holmes in this case, as in the other, is that possibly the gravel in which the implements were found had been disturbed. In some cases, as in Little Falls and at Madison ville, he thinks the implements may have worked down to a depth of several feet by the overturning of trees or by the decay of the tap-root of trees. A sufficient answer to these suggestions is, that Mr. Holmes is able to find no instance in which the overturning of trees has disturbed the soil to a depth of more than three or four feet, while some of the implements in these places had been found buried from eight to sixteen feet. Even if, as Mr. Chamberlin suggests,[Z] fifty generations of trees have decayed on the spot since the retreat of the ice, it is difficult to see how that would help the matter, since the effect could not be cumulative, and fifty upturnings of three or four feet would not produce the results of one upturning of eight feet. Moreover, at Trenton, where the upturning of trees and the decaying of tap-roots would have been as likely as anywhere to bury implements, none of those of flint or jasper (which occur upon the surface by tens of thousands) are buried more than a foot in depth; while the argillite implements occur as low down as fifteen or twenty feet. This limitation of flint and jasper implements to the surface is conclusively shown not only by Dr. Abbott’s discoveries, but also by the extensive excavations at Trenton of Mr. Ernest Volk, whose collections formed so prominent a part of Professor Putnam’s Palæolithic exhibit at the Columbian Exposition at Chicago. In the village sites explored by Mr. Volk, argillite was the exclusive material of the implements found in the lower strata of gravel. Similar results are indicated by the excavations of Mr. H. C. Mercer at Point Pleasant, Pa., about twenty miles above Trenton, where, in the lower strata, the argillite specimens are sixty-one times more numerous than the jasper are.

[Z] American Geologist, vol. xi, p. 188.

To discredit the discoveries at Trenton and Newcomerstown, Mr. Holmes relies largely upon the theory that portions of gravel from the surface had slid down to the bottom of the terrace, carrying implements with them, and forming a talus, which, he thinks, Mr. Mills, Dr. Abbott, and the others have mistaken for undisturbed strata of gravel. In his drawings Mr. Holmes has even represented the gravel at Newcomerstown as caving down into a talus without disturbing the strata to any great extent, and at the same time he speaks slightingly of the promise which I had made to publish a photograph of the bank as it really was. In answer, it is sufficient to give, first, the drawing made at the time by Mr. Mills, to show the general situation of the gravel bank at Newcomerstown, in which the implement figured on [page 252] was found; and, secondly, an engraving from a photograph of the bank, taken by Mr. Mills after the discovery of the implement, but before the talus had obscured its face. The implement was found by Mr. Mills with its point projecting from a fresh exposure of the terrace, just after a mass, loosened by his own efforts, had fallen away. The gravel is of such consistency that every sign of stratification disappears when it falls down, and there could be no occasion for a mistake even by an ordinary observer, while Mr. Mills was a well-trained geologist and collector, making his notes upon the spot.[AA]

[AA] The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xliii, pp. 29-39.

Height of Terrace exposed, 25 feet. Palæolith was found 1434 feet from surface.

Terrace in Newcomerstown, showing where W. C. Mills found the Palæolithic implement.

I had thought at first that Mr. Holmes had made out a better case against the late Miss Babbitt’s discoveries at Little Falls (referred to on [page 254]), but in the American Geologist for May, 1894, page 363, Mr. Warren Upham, after going over the evidence, expresses it as still his conviction that Mr. Holmes’s criticism fails to shake the force of the original evidence, so that I do not see any reason for modifying any of the statements made in the body of the book concerning the implements supposed to have been found in glacial deposits. Yet if I had expected such an avalanche of criticism of the evidence as has been loosened, I should at the time have fortified my statements by fuller references, and should possibly have somewhat enlarged the discussion. But this seemed then the less necessary, from the fact that Mr. McGee had, in most emphatic manner, indorsed nearly every item of the evidence adduced by me, and much more, in an article which appeared in The Popular Science Monthly four years before the publication of the volume (November, 1888). In this article he had said:

“But it is in the aqueo-glacial gravels of the Delaware River at Trenton, which were laid down contemporaneously with the terminal moraine one hundred miles farther northward, and which have been so thoroughly studied by Abbott, that the most conclusive proof of the existence of glacial man is found" ([p. 23]). “Excluding all doubtful cases, there remains a fairly consistent body of testimony indicating the existence of a widely distributed human population upon the North. American continent during the later Ice epoch” ([p. 24]). “However the doubtful cases may be neglected, the testimony is cumulative, parts of it are unimpeachable, and the proof of the existence of glacial man seems conclusive” ([p. 25]).

In view of the grossly erroneous statements made by Mr. McGee concerning the Nampa image (described on [pages 298, 299]), it is necessary for me to speak somewhat more fully of this important discovery. The details concerning the evidence were drawn out by me at length in two communications to the Boston Society of Natural History (referred to on [page 297]), which fill more than thirty pages of closely printed matter, while two or three years before the appearance of the volume the facts had been widely published in the New York Independent, the Scientific American, The Nation, Scribner’s Magazine, and the Atlantic Monthly, and in Washington at a meeting of the Geological Society of America in 1890. In the second communication to the Boston Society of Natural History an account was given of a personal visit to the Snake River Valley, largely for the purpose of further investigation of the evidence brought to my notice by Mr. Charles Francis Adams, and of the conditions under which the figurine was found. Among the most important results of this investigation was the discovery of numerous shells under the lava deposits, which Mr. Dall, of the United States Geological Survey, identified for me as either post-Tertiary or late Pliocene; thus throwing the superficial lava deposits of the region into the Quaternary period, and removing from the evidence the antecedent improbability which would bear so heavily against it if we were compelled to suppose that the lava of the Snake River region was all of Tertiary or even of early Quaternary age. Furthermore, the evidence of the occurrence of a great débâcle in the Snake River Valley during the Glacial period, incident upon the bursting of the banks of Lake Bonneville, goes far to remove antecedent presumptions against the occurrence of human implements in such conditions as those existing at Nampa (see below, [pp. 233-237]).

Mr. McGee’s misunderstanding of the evidence on one point is so gross, that I must make special reference to it. He says[AB] that this image “is alleged to have been pounded out of volcanic tuff by a heavy drill, ... under a thick Tertiary lava bed.” The statement of facts on [page 298] bears no resemblance to this representation. It is there stated that there were but fifteen feet of lava, and that near the surface; that below this there was nothing but alternating beds of clay and quicksand, and that the lava is post-Tertiary. The sand-pump I should perhaps have described more fully in the book, as I had already done in the communication to the Boston Society of Natural History. It was a tube eight feet long, with a valve at the bottom three and a half inches in diameter on the inside. Through this it was the easiest thing in the world for the object, which is only one inch and a half long, to be brought up in the quicksand without injury.

[AB] Literary Northwest, vol. ii, p. 275.

The baseless assertions of Mr. McGee, involving the honesty of Messrs. Kurtz and Duffes, are even less fortunate and far more reprehensible. “It is a fact,” says Mr. McGee, “hat one of the best-known geologists of the world chanced to visit Nampa while the boring was in progress, and the figurine and the pretty fiction were laid before him. He recognized the figurine as a toy such as the neighbouring Indians give their children, and laughed at the story; whereupon the owner of the object enjoined secrecy, pleading: ‘Don’t give me away; I’ve fooled a lot of fellows already, and I’d like to fool some more.’”[AC] This well-known geologist, on being challenged by Professor Claypole[AD] to give “a full, exact, and certified statement of the conversation” above referred to, proved to be Major Powell, who responded with the following statement: “In the fall of 1889 the writer visited Boise City, in Idaho [twenty miles from Nampa]. While stopping at a hotel, some gentlemen called on him to show him a figurine which they said they had found in sinking an artesian well in the neighbourhood, at a depth, if I remember rightly, of more than three hundred feet.... When this story was told the writer, he simply jested with those who claimed to have found it. He had known the Indians that live in the neighbourhood, had seen their children play with just such figurines, and had no doubt that the little image had lately belonged to some Indian child, and said the same. While stopping at the hotel different persons spoke about it, and it was always passed off as a jest; and various comments were made about it by various people, some of them claiming that it had given them much sport, and that a good many tenderfeet had looked at it, and believed it to be genuine; and they seemed rather pleased that I had detected the hoax.”[AE]

[AC] American Anthropologist, vol. vi, p. 94: repeated by Mr. McGee in the Literary Northwest, vol. ii, p. 276.

[AD] The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xlii, p. 773.

[AE] Ibid., vol. xliii, pp. 322, 323.

Thus it appears that Major Powell has made no such statement, at least in public, as Mr. McGee attributes to him. It should be said, also, that Major Powell’s memory is very much at fault when he affirms that there is a close resemblance between this figurine and some of the children’s playthings among the Pocatello Indians. On the contrary, it would have been even more of a surprise to find it in the hands of these children than to find it among the prehistoric deposits on the Pacific coast.

To most well-informed people it is sufficient to know that no less high authorities than Mr. Charles Francis Adams and Mr. G. M. Gumming, General Manager for the Union Pacific line for that district, carefully investigated the evidence at the time of the discovery, and, knowing the parties, were entirely satisfied with its sufficiency. It was also subjected to careful examination by Professor F. W. Putnam, who discerned, in a deposit of an oxide of iron on various parts of the image, indubitable evidence that it was a relic which had lain for a long time in some such condition as was assigned to it in the bottom of the well—all of which is detailed in the papers referred to below, on [page 297].

Finally, the discovery, both in its character and conditions, is in so many respects analogous to those made under Table Mountain, near Sonora, Cal. (described on pages [294-297]), that the evidence of one locality adds cumulative force to that of the other. The strata underneath the lava in which these objects were found are all indirectly, but pretty certainly, connected with the Glacial period.[AF] No student of glacial archæology, therefore, can hereafter afford to disregard these facts from the Pacific coast.

[AF] See below, [p. 349].

Oberlin, Ohio, June 2, 1894.

[PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.]

The wide interest manifested in my treatise upon The Ice Age in North America and its Bearing upon the Antiquity of Man (of which a third edition was issued a year ago), seemed to indicate the desirability of providing for the public a smaller volume discussing the broader question of man’s entire relation to the Glacial period in Europe as well as in America. When the demand for such a volume became evident, I set about preparing for the task by spending, first, a season in special study of the lava-beds of the Pacific coast, whose relations to the Glacial period and to man’s antiquity are of such great interest; and, secondly, a summer in Europe, to enable me to compare the facts bearing upon the subject on both continents.

Of course, the chapters of the present volume relating to America cover much of the same ground gone over in the previous treatise; but the matter has been entirely rewritten and very much condensed, so as to give due proportions to all parts of the subject. It will interest some to know that most of the new material in this volume was first wrought over in my second course of Lowell Institute Lectures, given in Boston during the month of March last.

I am under great obligations to Mr. Charles Francis Adams for his aid in prosecuting investigations upon the Pacific coast of America; and also to Dr. H. W. Crosskey, of Birmingham, England, and to Mr. G. W. Lamplugh, of Bridlington, as well as to Mr. C. E. De Rance and Mr. Clement Reid, of the British Geological Survey, besides many others in England who have facilitated my investigations; but pre-eminently to Prof. Percy F. Kendall, of Stockport, who consented to prepare for me the portion of [Chapter VI] which relates to the glacial phenomena of the British Isles. I have no doubt of the general correctness of the views maintained by him, and little doubt, also, that his clear and forcible presentation of the facts will bring about what is scarcely less than a revolution in the views generally prevalent relating to the subject of which he treats.

For the glacial facts relating to France and Switzerland I am indebted largely to M. Falsan’s valuable compendium, La Période Glaciaire.

It goes without saying, also, that I am under the deepest obligation to the works of Prof. James Geikie upon The Great Ice Age and upon Prehistoric Europe, and to the remarkable volume of the late Mr. James Croll upon Climate and Time, as well as to the recent comprehensive geological treatises of Sir Archibald Geikie and Prof. Prestwich. Finally, I would express my gratitude for the great courtesy of Prof. Fraipont, of Liége, in assisting me to an appreciation of the facts relating to the late remarkable discovery of two entire skeletons of Paleolithic man in the grotto of Spy.

Comparative completeness is also given to the volume by the appendix on the question of man’s existence during the Tertiary period, prepared by the competent hand of Prof. Henry W. Haynes, of Boston.

I trust this brief treatise will be useful not only in interesting the general public, but in giving a clear view of the present state of progress in one department of the inquiries concerning man’s antiquity. If the conclusions reached are not as positive as could be wished, still it is both desirable and important to see what degree of indefiniteness rests upon the subject, in order that rash speculations may be avoided and future investigations directed in profitable lines.

G. Frederick Wright.
Oberlin, Ohio, May 1, 1892.

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS.

[MAN AND THE GLACIAL PERIOD.]

[CHAPTER I.]

INTRODUCTORY.

That glaciers now exist in the Alps, in the Scandinavian range, in Iceland, in the Himalayas, in New Zealand, in Patagonia, and in the mountains of Washington, British Columbia, and southeastern Alaska, and that a vast ice-sheet envelops Greenland and the Antarctic Continent, are statements which can be verified by any one who will take the trouble to visit those regions. That, at a comparatively recent date, these glaciers extended far beyond their present limits, and that others existed upon the highlands of Scotland and British America, and at one time covered a large part of the British Isles, the whole of British America, and a considerable area in the northern part of the United States, are inferences drawn from phenomena which are open to every one’s observations. That man was in existence and occupied both Europe and America during this great expansion of the northern glaciers is proved by evidence which is now beyond dispute. It is the object of the present volume to make a concise presentation of the facts which have been rapidly accumulating during the past few years relating to the Glacial period and to its connection with human history.

Before speaking of the number and present extent of existing glaciers, it will be profitable, however, to devote a little attention to the definition of terms.

Fig. 1.—Zermatt Glacier (Agassiz).

A glacier is a mass of ice so situated and of such size as to have motion in itself. The conditions determining the character and rate of this motion will come up for statement and discussion later. It is sufficient here to say that ice has a capacity of movement similar to that possessed by such plastic substances as cold molasses, wax, tar, or cooling lava.

The limit of a glacier’s motion is determined by the forces which fix the point at which its final melting takes place. This will therefore depend upon both the warmth of the weather and upon the amount of ice. If the ice is abundant, it will move farther into the region of warm temperature than it will if it is limited in supply.

Upon ascending a glacier far enough, one reaches a comparatively motionless part corresponding to the lake out of which a river often flows. Technically this is called the névé.

Glacial ice is formed from snow where the annual fall is in excess of the melting power of the sun at that point. Through the influence of pressure, such as a boy applies to a snow-ball (but which in the névé-field arises from the weight of the accumulating mass), the lower strata of the névé are gradually transformed into ice. This process, is also assisted by the moisture which percolates through the snowy mass, and which is furnished both by the melting of the surface snow and by occasional rains.

The division between the névé and the glacier proper is not always easily determined. The beginnings of the glacial movement—that is, of the movement of the ice-stream flowing out of the névé-field—are somewhat like the beginnings of the movement of the water from a great lake into its outlet. The névé is the reservoir from which the glacier gets both its supply of ice and the impulse which gives it its first movement. There can not be a glacier without a névé-field, as there can not be a river without a drainage basin. But there may be a névé-field without a glacier—that is, a basin may be partially filled with snow which never melts completely away, while the equilibrium of forces is such that the ice barely reaches to the outlet from which the tongue-like projection (to which the name glacier would be applied) fails to emerge only because of the lack of material.

Fig. 2.—Illustrates the formation of veined structure by pressure at the junction of two branches.

A glacier is characterised by both veins and fissures. The veins give it a banded or stratified appearance, blue alternating with lighter-coloured portions of ice. As these bands are not arranged with any apparent uniformity in the glacier, their explanation has given rise to much discussion. Sometimes the veins are horizontal, sometimes vertical, and at other times at an angle with the line of motion. On close investigation, however, it is found that the veins are always at right angles to the line of greatest pressure. This leads to the conclusion that pressure is the cause of the banded structure. The blue strata in the ice are those from which the particles of air have been expelled by pressure; the lighter portions are those in which the particles are less thoroughly compacted. Snow is but pulverized ice, and differs in colour from the compact mass for the same reason that almost all rocks and minerals change their colour when ground into a powder.

Figs. 3, 4.—Illustrate the formation of marginal fissures and veins.

Fig. 5.—c, c, show fissures and seracs where the glacier moves down the steeper portion of its incline; s, s, show the vertical structure produced by pressure on the gentler slopes.

The fissures, which, when of large size, are called crevasses, are formed in those portions of a glacier where, from some cause, the ice is subjected to slight tension. This occurs especially where, through irregularities in the bottom, the slope of the descent is increased. The ice, then, instead of moving in a continuous stream at the top, cracks open along the line of tension, and wedge-shaped fissures are formed extending from the top down to a greater or less distance, according to the degree of tension. Usually, however, the ice remains continuous in the lower strata, and when the slope is diminished the pressure reunites the faces of the fissure, and the surface becomes again comparatively smooth. Where there are extensive areas of tension, the surface of the ice sometimes becomes exceedingly broken, presenting a tangled mass of towers, domes, and pinnacles of ice called seracs.

Fig. 6.—Section across Glacial Valley, showing old Lateral Moraines.

Like running water, moving ice is a powerful agent in transporting rocks and earthy débris of all grades of fineness; but, owing to the different consistencies of ice and water, there are great differences in the mode and result of transportation by them. While water can hold in suspension only the very finest material, ice can bear upon its surface rocks of the greatest magnitude, and can roll or shove along under it boulders and pebbles which would be Unaffected except by torrential currents of water. We find, therefore, a great amount of earthy material of all sizes upon the top of a glacier, which has reached it very much as débris reaches the bed of a river, namely, by falling down upon it from overhanging cliffs, or by land-slides of greater or less extent. Such material coming into a river would either disappear beneath its surface, or would form a line of débris along the banks; in both cases awaiting the gradual erosion and transportation which running water is able to effect. But, in case of a glacier, the material rests upon the surface of the ice, and at once begins to partake of its motion, while successive accessions of material keep up the supply at any one point, so as to form a train of boulders and other débris, extending below the point as far as the glacial motion continues.

Such a line of débris is called a moraine. When it forms along the edge of the ice, it is called a lateral moraine. It is easy to see that, where glaciers come out from two valleys which are tributary to a larger valley, their inner sides must coalesce below the separating promontory, and the two lateral moraines will become united and will move onward in the middle of the surface of the glacier. Such lines of débris are called medial moraines. These are characteristic of all extensive glaciers formed by the union of tributaries. There is no limit to the number of medial moraines, except in the number of tributaries.

A medial moraine, when of sufficient thickness, protects the ice underneath it from melting; so that the moraine will often appear to be much larger than it really is: what seems to be a ridge of earthy material being in reality a long ridge of ice, thinly covered with earthy débris, sliding down the slanting sides as the ice slowly wastes away Large blocks of stone in the same manner protect the ice from melting underneath, and are found standing on pedestals of ice, often several feet in height. An interesting feature of these blocks is that, when the pedestal fails, the block uniformly falls towards the sun, since that is the side on which the melting has proceeded most rapidly.

If the meteorological forces are so balanced that the foot of a glacier remains at the same place for any great length of time, there must be a great accumulation of earthy débris at the stationary point, since the motion of the ice is constantly bearing its lines of lateral and medial moraine downwards to be deposited, year by year, at the melting line along the front.

Such accumulations are called terminal moraines, and the process of their formation may be seen at the foot of almost any large glacier. The pile of material thus confusedly heaped up in front of some of the larger glaciers of the world is enormous.

The melting away of the lower part of a glacier gives rise also to several other characteristic phenomena. Where the foot of a glacier chances to be on comparatively level land, the terminal moraine often covers a great extent of ice, and protects it from melting for an indefinite period of time. When the ice finally melts away and removes the support from the overlying morainic débris, this settles down in a very irregular manner, leaving enclosed depressions to which there is no natural outlet. These depressions, from their resemblance to a familiar domestic utensil, are technically known as kettle-holes. The terminal moraines of ancient glaciers may often be traced by the relative abundance of these kettle-holes.

The streams of water arising both from the rainfall and from the melting of the ice also produce a peculiar effect about the foot of an extensive glacier. Sometimes these streams cut long, open channels near the end of the glacier, and sweep into it vast quantities of morainic material, which is pushed along by the torrential current, and, after being abraded, rolled, and sorted, is deposited in a delta about its mouth, or left stranded in long lines between the ice-walls which have determined its course. At other times the stream has disappeared far back in the glacier, and plunged into a crevasse (technically called a moulin), whence it flows onwards as a subglacial stream. But in this case the deposits might closely resemble those of the previous description. In both cases, when the ice has finally melted away, peculiar ridge-like deposits of sorted material remain, to mark the temporary line of drainage. These exist abundantly in most regions which have been covered with glacial ice, and are referred to in Scotland as kames, in Ireland as eskers, and in Sweden as osars. In this volume we shall call them kames, and the deltas spread out in front of them will be referred to as kame-plains.

With this preliminary description of glacial phenomena, we will proceed to give, first, a brief enumeration and description of the ice-fields which are still existing in the world; second, the evidences of the former existence of far more extensive ice-fields; and, third, the relation of the Glacial period to some of the vicissitudes which have attended the life of man in the world.

The geological period of which we shall treat is variously designated by different writers. By some it is simply called the “post-Tertiary,” or “Quaternary”; by others the term “post-Pliocene” is used, to indicate more sharply its distinction from the latter portion of the Tertiary period; by others this nicety of distinction is expressed by the term “Pleistocene.” But, since the whole epoch was peculiarly characterised by the presence of glaciers, which have not even yet wholly disappeared, we may properly refer to it altogether under the descriptive name of “Glacial” period.

[CHAPTER II.]

EXISTING GLACIERS.

In Europe.—Our specific account of existing glaciers naturally begins with those of the Alps, where Hugi, Charpentier, Agassiz, Forbes, and Guyot, before the middle of this century, first brought clearly to light the reality and nature of glacial motion.

According to Professor Heim, of Zürich, the total area covered by the glaciers and ice-fields of the Alps is upwards of three thousand square kilometres (about eleven hundred square miles). The Swiss Alps alone contain nearly two-thirds of this area. Professor Heim enumerates 1,155 distinct glaciers in the region. Of these, 144 are in France, 78 in Italy, 471 in Switzerland, and 462 in Austria.

Desor describes fourteen principal glacial districts in the Alps, the westernmost of which is that of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiny, and the easternmost that in the vicinity of the Gross Glockner, in Carinthia. The most important of the Alpine systems are those which are grouped around Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and the Finsteraarhorn, the two former peaks being upwards of fifteen thousand feet in height, and the latter upwards of fourteen thousand. The area covered by glaciers and snow-fields in the Bernese Oberland, of which Finsteraarhorn is the culminating point, is about three hundred and fifty square kilometres (a hundred square miles), and contains the Aletsch Glacier, which is the longest in Europe, extending twenty-one kilometres (about fourteen miles) from the névé-field to its foot. The Mer de Glace, which descends from Mont Blanc to the valley of Chamounix, has a length of about eight miles below the névé-field. In all, there are estimated to be twenty-four glaciers in the Alps which are upwards of four miles long, and six which are upwards of eight miles in length. The principal of these are the Mer de Glace, of Chamounix, on Mont Blanc; the Gorner Glacier, near Zermatt, on Monte Rosa; the lower glacier of the Aar, in the Bernese Oberland; and the Aletsch Glacier and Glacier of the Rhône, in Vallais; and the Pasterzen, in Carinthia.

Fig. 7.—Mount Blanc Glacier Region: m, Mer de Glace; g, Du Géant; l, Leschaux; t, Taléfre; B, Bionassay; b, Bosson.

These glaciers adjust themselves to the width of the valleys down which they flow, in some places being a mile or more in width, and at others contracting into much narrower compass. The greatest depth which Agassiz was able directly to measure in the Aar Glacier was two hundred and sixty metres (five hundred and twenty-eight feet), but at another point the depth was estimated by him to be four hundred and sixty metres (or fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet).

The glaciers of the Alps are mostly confined to the northern side and to the higher portions of the mountain-chain, none of them descending below the level of four thousand feet, and all of them varying slightly in extent, from year to year, according as there are changes in the temperature and in the amount of snow-fall.

The Pyrenees, also, still maintain a glacial system, but it is of insignificant importance. This is partly because the altitude is much less than that of the Alps, the culminating point being scarcely more than eleven thousand feet in height. Doubtless, also, it is partly due to the narrowness of the range, which does not provide gathering-places for the snow sufficiently extensive to produce large glaciers. The snow-fall also is less upon the Pyrenees than upon the Alps. As a consequence of all these conditions, the glaciers of the Pyrenees are scarcely more than stationary névé-fields lingering upon the north side of the range. The largest of these is near Bagnères de Luchon, and sends down a short, river-like glacier.

In Scandinavia the height of the mountains is also much less than that of the Alps, but the moister climate and the more northern latitude favours the growth of glaciers at a much lower level North of the sixty-second degree of latitude, the plateaus over five thousand feet above the sea pretty generally are gathering-places for glaciers. From the Justedal a snow-field, covering five hundred and eighty square miles, in latitude 62°, twenty-four glaciers push outwards towards the German Sea, the largest of which is five miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide. The Fondalen snow-field, between latitudes 66° and 67°, covers an area about equal to that of the Justedal; but, on account of its more northern position, its glaciers descend through the valleys quite to the ocean-level. The Folgofon snow-field is still farther south, but, though occupying an area of only one hundred square miles, it sends down as many as three glaciers to the sea-level. The total area of the Scandinavian snow-fields is about five thousand square miles.

In Sweden Dr. Svenonius estimates that there are, between latitudes 67° and 6812°, twenty distinct groups of glaciers, covering an area of four hundred square kilometres (one hundred and forty-four square miles), and he numbers upwards of one hundred distinct glaciers of small size.

As is to be expected, the large islands in the Polar Sea north of Europe and Asia are, to a great extent, covered with névé-fields, and numerous glaciers push out from them to the sea in all directions, discharging their surplus ice as bergs, which float away and cumber the waters with their presence in many distant places.

Fig. 8.—The Svartisen Glacier on the west coast of Norway, just within the Arctic circle, at the head of a fiord ten miles from the ocean. The foot of the Glacier is one mile wide, and a quarter of a mile back from the water. Terminal moraine in front. (Photographed by Dr. L. C. Warner.)

The island of Spitzbergen, in latitude 76° to 81°, is favourably situated for the production of glaciers, by reason both of its high northern latitude, and of its relation to the Gulf Stream, which conveys around to it an excessive amount of moisture, thus ensuring an exceptionally large snow-fall over the island. The mountainous character of the island also favours the concentration of the ice-movement into glaciers of vast size and power. Still, even here, much of the land is free from snow and ice in summer. But upon the northern portion of the island there is an extensive table-land, upwards of two thousand feet above the sea, over which the ice-field is continuous. Four great glaciers here descend to tide-water in Magdalena Bay. The largest of these presents at the front a wall of ice seven thousand feet across and three hundred feet high; but, as the depth of the water is not great, few icebergs of large size break off and float away from it.

Nova Zembla, though not in quite so high latitude, has a lower mean temperature upon the coasts than Spitzbergen. Owing to the absence of high lands and mountains, however, it is not covered with perpetual snow, much less with glacial ice, but its level portions are “carpeted with grasses and flowers,” and sustain extensive forests of stunted trees.

Franz-Josef Land, to the north of Nova Zembla, both contains high mountains and supports glaciers of great size. Mr. Payer conducted a sledge party into this land in 1874, and reported that a precipitous wall of glacial ice, “of more than a hundred feet in height, formed the usual edge of the coast.” But the motion of the ice is very slow, and the ice coarse-grained in structure, and it bears a small amount only of morainic material. So low is here the line of perpetual snow, that the smaller islands “are covered with caps of ice, so that a cross-section would exhibit a regular flat segment of ice.” It is interesting to note, also, that “many ice-streams, descending from the high névé plateau, spread themselves out over the mountain-slopes,” and are not, as in the Alps, confined to definite valleys.

Iceland seems to have been properly named, since a single one of the snow-fields—that of Vatnajoküll, with an extreme elevation of only six thousand feet—is estimated by Helland to cover one hundred and fifty Norwegian square miles (about seven thousand English square miles), while five other ice-fields (the Langjoküll, the Hofsjoküll, the Myrdalsjoküll, the Drangajoküll, and the Glamujoküll) have a combined area of ninety-two Norwegian or about four thousand five hundred English square miles. The glaciers are supposed by Whitney to have been rapidly advancing for some time past.

In Asia.—Notwithstanding its lofty mountains and its great extent of territory lying in high latitudes, glaciers are for two reasons relatively infrequent: 1. The land in the more northern latitudes is low. 2. The dryness of the atmosphere in the interior of the continent is such that it unduly limits the snow-fall. Long before they reach the central plateau of Asia, the currents of air which sweep over the continent from the Indian Ocean have parted with their burdens of moisture, having left them in a snowy mantle upon the southern flanks of the Himalayas. As a result, we have the extensive deserts of the interior, where, on account of the clear atmosphere, there is not snow enough to resist continuously the intense activity of the unobstructed rays of the sun.

In spite of their high latitude and considerable elevation above the sea-level, glaciers are absent from the Ural Mountains, for the range is too narrow to afford névé-fields of sufficient size to produce glaciers of large extent.

The Caucasus Mountains present more favourable conditions, and for a distance of one hundred and twenty miles near their central portion have an average height of 12,000 feet, with individual peaks rising to a height of 16,000 feet or more; but, owing to their low latitude, the line of perpetual snow scarcely reaches down to the 11,000-foot level. So great are the snow-fields, however, above this height that many glaciers push their way down through the narrow mountain-gorges as far as the 6,000-foot level.

The Himalaya Mountains present many favourable conditions for the development of glaciers of large size. The range is of great extent and height, thus affording ample gathering-places for the snows, while the relation of the mountains to the moisture-laden winds from the Indian Ocean is such that they enjoy the first harvest of the clouds where the interior of Asia gets only the gleanings. As is to be expected, therefore, all the great rivers which course through the plains of Hindustan have their rise in large glaciers far up towards the summits of the northern mountains. The Indus and the Ganges are both glacial streams in their origin, as are their larger tributary branches—the Basha, the Shigar, and the Sutlej. Many of the glaciers in the higher levels of the Himalaya Mountains where these streams rise have a length of from twenty-five to forty miles, and some of them are as much as a mile and a half in width and extend for a long distance, with an inclination as small as one degree and a half or one hundred and thirty-eight feet to a mile.

In the Mustagh range of the western Himalayas there are two adjoining glaciers whose united length is sixty-five miles, and another not far away which is twenty-one miles long and from one to two miles wide in its upper portion. Its lower portion terminates at an altitude of 16,000 feet above tide, where it is three miles wide and two hundred and fifty feet thick.

Oceanica.—-Passing eastward to the islands of the Pacific Ocean, New Zealand is the only one capable of supporting glaciers. Their existence on this island seems the more remarkable because of its low latitude (42° to 45°); but a grand range of mountains rises abruptly from the water on the western coast of the southern island, culminating in Mount Cook, 13,000 feet above the sea, and extending for a distance of about one hundred miles. The extent and height of this chain, coupled with the moisture of the winds, which sweep without obstruction over so many leagues of the tropical Pacific, are specially favourable to the production of ice-fields of great extent. Consequently we find glaciers in abundance, some of which are not inferior in extent to the larger ones of the Alps. The Tasman Glacier, described by Haas, is ten miles long and nearly two miles broad at its termination, “the lower portion for a distance of three miles being covered with morainic detritus.” The Mueller Glacier is about seven miles long and one mile broad in its lower portion.

South America.—In America, existing glaciers are chiefly confined to three principal centres, namely, to the Andes, south of the equator; to the Cordilleras, north of central California; and to Greenland.

In South America, however, the high mountains of Ecuador sustain a few glaciers above the twelve-thousand-foot level. The largest of these are upon the eastern slope of the mountains, giving rise to some of the branches of the Amazon—indeed, on the flanks of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and Illinissa there are some glaciers in close proximity to the equator which are fairly comparable in size to those of the Alps.

In Chili, at about latitude 35°, glaciers begin to appear at lower levels, descending beyond the six-thousand-foot line, while south of this both the increasing moisture of the winds and the decreasing average temperature favour the increase of ice-fields and glaciers. Consequently, as Darwin long ago observed, the line of perpetual snow here descends to an increasingly lower level, and glaciers extend down farther and farther towards the sea, until, in Tierra del Fuego, at about latitude 45°, they begin to discharge their frozen contents directly into the tidal inlets. Darwin’s party surveyed a glacier entering the Gulf of Penas in latitude 46° 50’, which was fifteen miles long, and, in one part, seven broad. At Eyre’s Sound, also, in about latitude 48°, they found immense glaciers coming clown to the sea and discharging icebergs of great size, one of which, as they encountered it floating outwards, was estimated to be “at least one hundred and sixty-eight feet in total height.”

In Tierra del Fuego, where the mountains are only from three thousand to four thousand feet in height and in latitude less than 55°, Darwin reports that "every valley is filled with streams of ice descending to the sea-coast," and that the inlets penetrated by his party presented miniature likenesses of the polar sea.

Fig. 9.—Floating berg, showing the proportions above and under the water. About seven feet under water to one above.

Antarctic Continent.—Of the so-called Antarctic Continent little is known; but icebergs of great size are frequently encountered up to 58° south latitude, in the direction of Cape Horn, and as far as latitude 33° in the direction of Cape of Good Hope. Nearly all that is known about this continent was discovered by Sir J. C. Ross during the period extending from 1839 to 1843, when, between the parallels of 70° and 78° south latitude, he encountered in his explorations a precipitous mountain coast, rising from seven thousand to ten thousand feet above tide. Through the valleys intervening between the mountain-ranges huge glaciers descended, and “projected in many places several miles into the sea and terminated in lofty, perpendicular cliffs. In a few places the rocks broke through their icy covering, by which alone we could be assured that land formed the nucleus of this, to appearance, enormous iceberg.”[AG]

[AG] Quoted by Whitney in Climatic Changes, p. 314.

Again, speaking of the region in the vicinity of the lofty volcanoes Terror and Erebus, between ten thousand and twelve thousand feet high, the same navigator says:

“We perceived a low, white line extending from its extreme eastern point, as far as the eye could discern, to the eastward. It presented an extraordinary appearance, gradually increasing in height as we got nearer to it, and proving at length to be a perpendicular cliff of ice, between one hundred and fifty and two hundred feet above the level of the sea, perfectly flat and level at the top, and without any fissures or promontories on its even, seaward face. What was beyond it we could not imagine; for, being much higher than our mast-head, we could not see anything except the summit of a lofty range of mountains extending to the southward as far as the seventy-ninth degree of latitude. These mountains, being the southernmost land hitherto discovered, I felt great satisfaction in naming after Sir Edward Parry.... Whether Parry Mountains again take an easterly trending and form the base to which this extraordinary mass of ice is attached, must be left for future navigators to determine. If there be land to the southward it must be very remote, or of much less elevation than any other part of the coast we have seen, or it would have appeared above the barrier.”

This ice-cliff or barrier was followed by Captain Ross as far as 198° west longitude, and found to preserve very much the same character during the whole of that distance. On the lithographic view of this great ice-sheet given in Ross’s work it is described as “part of the South Polar Barrier, one hundred and eighty feet above the sea-level, one thousand feet thick, and four hundred and fifty miles in length.”

A similar vertical wall of ice was seen by D’Urville, off the coast of Adelie Land. He thus describes it: “Its appearance was astonishing. We perceived a cliff having a uniform elevation of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet, forming a long line extending off to the west.... Thus for more than twelve hours we had followed this wall of ice, and found its sides everywhere perfectly vertical and its summit horizontal. Not the smallest irregularity, not the most inconsiderable elevation, broke its uniformity for the twenty leagues of distance which we followed it during the day, although we passed it occasionally at a distance of only two or three miles, so that we could make out with ease its smallest irregularities. Some large pieces of ice were lying along the side of this frozen coast; but, on the whole, there was open sea in the offing.” [AH]

[AH] Whitney’s Climatic Changes, pp. 315, 316.

Fig. 10.—Iceberg in the Antarctic Ocean.

North America.—In North America living glaciers begin to appear in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, in the vicinity of the Yosemite Park, in central California. Here the conditions necessary for the production of glaciers are favourable, namely, a high altitude, snow-fields of considerable extent, and unobstructed exposure to the moisture-laden currents of air from the Pacific Ocean. Sixteen glaciers of small size have been noted among the summits to the east of the Yosemite; but none of them descend much below the eleven-thousand-foot line, and none of them are over a mile in length. Indeed, they are so small, and their motion is so slight, that it is a question whether or not they are to be classed with true glaciers.

Owing to the comparatively low elevation of the Sierra Nevada north of Tuolumne County, California, no other living glaciers are found until reaching Mount Shasta, in the extreme northern part of the State. This is a volcanic peak, rising fourteen thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and having no peaks within forty miles of it as high as ten thousand feet; yet so abundant is the snow-fall that as many as five glaciers are found upon its northern side, some of them being as much as three miles long and extending as low down as the eight-thousand-foot level. Upon the southern side glaciers are so completely absent that Professor Whitney ascended the mountain and remained in perfect ignorance of its glacial system. In 1870 Mr. Clarence King first discovered and described them on the northern side.

North of California glaciers characterise the Cascade Range in increasing numbers all the way to the Alaskan Peninsula. They are to be found upon Diamond Peak, the Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Hood, in Oregon, and appear in still larger proportions upon the flanks of Mount Rainier (or Tacoma) and Mount Baker, in the State of Washington. The glacier at the head of the White River Valley is upon the north side of Rainier, and is the largest one upon that mountain, reaching down to within five thousand feet of the sea-level, and being ten miles or more in length. All the streams which descend the valleys upon this mountain are charged with the milky-coloured water which betrays their glacial origin.

Fig. 11.—Map of Southeastern Alaska. The arrow-points mark glaciers.

In British Columbia, Glacier Station, upon the Canadian Pacific Railroad, in the Selkirk Mountains, is within half a mile of the handsome Illicilliwaet Glacier, while others of larger size are found at no great distance. The interior farther north is unexplored to so great an extent that little can be definitely said concerning its glacial phenomena. The coast of British Columbia is penetrated by numerous fiords, each of which receives the drainage of a decaying glacier; but none are in sight of the tourist-steamers which thread their way through the intricate network of channels characterising this coast, until the Alaskan boundary is crossed and the mouth of the Stickeen River is passed.

A few miles up from the mouth of the Stickeen, however, glaciers of large size come down to the vicinity of the river, both from the north and from the south, and the attention of tourists is always attracted by the abundant glacial sediment borne into the tide-water by the river itself and discolouring the surface for a long distance beyond the outlet. Northward from this point the tourist is rarely out of sight of ice-fields. The Auk and Patterson Glaciers are the first to come into view, but they do not descend to the water-level. On nearing Holcomb Bay, however, small icebergs begin to appear, heralding the first of the glaciers which descend beyond the water’s edge. Taku Inlet, a little farther north, presents glaciers of great size coming down to the sea-level, while the whole length of Lynn Canal, from Juneau to Chilkat, a distance of eighty miles, is dotted on both sides by conspicuous glaciers and ice-fields.

The Davidson Glacier, near the head of the canal, is one of the most interesting for purposes of study. It comes down from an unknown distance in the western interior, bearing two marked medial moraines upon its surface. On nearing tide-level, the valley through which it flows is about three-quarters of a mile in width; but, after emerging from the confinement of the valley, the ice spreads out over a fan-shaped area until the width of its front is nearly three miles. The supply of ice not being sufficient to push the front of the glacier into deep water, equilibrium between the forces of heat and cold is established near the water’s edge. Here, as from year to year the ice melts and deposits its burdens of earthy débris, it has piled up a terminal moraine which rises from two hundred to three hundred feet in height, and is now covered with evergreen trees of considerable size. From Chilkat, at the head of Lynn Canal, to the sources of the Yukon River, the distance is only thirty-five miles, but the intervening mountain-chain is several thousand feet in height and bears numerous glaciers upon its seaward side.

About forty miles west of Lynn Canal, and separated from it by a range of mountains of moderate height, is Glacier Bay, at the head of one of whose inlets is the Muir Glacier, which forms the chief attraction for the great number of tourists that now visit the coast of southeastern Alaska during the summer season. This glacier meets tide-water in latitude 58° 50’, and longitude 136° 40’ west of Greenwich. It received its name from Mr. John Muir, who, in company with Rev. Mr. Young, made a tour of the bay and discovered the glacier in 1879. It was soon found that the bay could be safely navigated by vessels of large size, and from that time on tourists in increasing number have been attracted to the region. Commodious steamers now regularly run close up to the ice-front, and lie-to for several hours, so that the passengers may witness the “calving” of icebergs, and may climb upon the sides of the icy stream and look into its deep crevasses and out upon its corrugated and broken surface.

Fig. 12.—Map of Glacier Bay. Alaska, and its surroundings. Arrow-points indicate glaciated area.

The first persons who found it in their way to pay more than a tourist’s visit to this interesting object were Rev. J. L. Patton, Mr. Prentiss Baldwin, and myself, who spent the entire month of August, 1886, encamped at the foot of the glacier, conducting such observations upon it as weather and equipment permitted. From that time till the summer of 1890 no one else stopped off from the tourist steamers to bestow any special study upon it. But during this latter season Mr. Muir returned to the scene of his discovered wonder, and spent some weeks in exploring the interior of the great ice-field. During the same season, also, Professors H. F. Reid and H. Cushing, with a well-equipped party of young men, spent two months or more in the same field, conducting observations and experiments, of various kinds, relating to the extent, the motion, and the general behaviour of the vast mass of moving ice.

Fig. 13.—Shows central part of the front of Muir Glacier one half mile distant. Near the lower left hand corner the ice is seen one mile distant resting for about one half mile on gravel which it had overrun. The ice is now retreating in the channel. (From photograph.)

The main body of the Muir Glacier occupies a vast amphitheatre, with diameters ranging from thirty to forty miles, and covers an area of about one thousand square miles. From one of the low mountains near its mouth I could count twenty-six tributary glaciers which came together and became confluent in the main stream of ice. Nine medial moraines marked the continued course of as many main branches, which becoming united formed the grand trunk of the glacier. Numerous rocky eminences also projected above the surface of the ice, like islands in the sea, corresponding to what are called “nunataks” in Greenland. The force of the ice against the upper side of these rocky prominences is such as to push it in great masses above the surrounding level, after the analogy of waves which dash themselves into foam against similar obstructions. In front of the nunataks there is uniformly a depression, like the eddies which appear in the current below obstacles in running water.

Over some portions of the surface of the glacier there is a miniature river system, consisting of a main stream, with numerous tributaries, but all flowing in channels of deep blue ice. Before reaching the front of the glacier, however, each one of these plunges down into a crevasse, or moulin, to swell the larger current, which may be heard rushing along in an impetuous course hundreds of feet beneath, and far out of sight. The portion of the glacier in which there is the most rapid motion is characterised by innumerable crags and domes and pinnacles of ice, projecting above the general level, whose bases are separated by fissures, extending in many cases more than a hundred feet below the general level. These irregularities result from the combined effect of the differential motion (as illustrated in the diagram on [page 4]), and the influence of sunshine and warm air in irregularly melting the unprotected masses. The description given in our introductory chapter of medial moraines and ice-pillars is amply illustrated everywhere upon the surface of the Muir Glacier. I measured one block of stone which was twenty feet square and about the same height, standing on a pedestal of ice three or four feet high.

The mountains forming the periphery of this amphitheatre rise to a height of several thousand feet; Mount Fairweather, upon the northwest, from whose flanks probably a portion of the ice comes, being, in fact, more than fifteen thousand feet high. The mouth of the amphitheatre is three miles wide, in a line extending from shoulder to shoulder of the low mountains which guard it. The actual water-front where the ice meets tide-water is one mile and a half.[AI] Here the depth of the inlet is so great that the front of the ice breaks off in icebergs of large size, which float away to be dissolved at their leisure. At the water’s edge the ice presents a perpendicular front of from two hundred and fifty to four hundred feet in height, and the depth of the water in the middle of the inlet immediately in front of the ice is upwards of seven hundred feet; thus giving a total height to the precipitous front of a thousand feet.

[AI] These are the measurements of Professor Reid. In my former volume I have given the dimensions as somewhat smaller.

The formation of icebergs can here be studied to admirable advantage. During the month in which we encamped in the vicinity the process was going on continuously. There was scarcely an interval of fifteen minutes during the whole time in which the air was not rent with the significant boom connected with the “calving” of a berg. Sometimes this was occasioned by the separation of a comparatively small mass of ice from near the top of the precipitous wall, which would fall into the water below with a loud splash. At other times I have seen a column of ice from top to bottom of the precipice split off and fall over into the water, giving rise to great waves, which would lash the shore with foam two miles below.

This manner of the production of icebergs differs from that which has been ordinarily represented in the text-books, but it conforms to the law of glacial motion, which we will describe a little later, namely, that the upper strata of ice move faster than the lower. Hence the tendency is constantly to push the upper strata forwards, so as to produce a perpendicular or even projecting front, after the analogy of the formation of breakers on the shelving shore of a large body of water.

Evidently, however, these masses of ice which break off from above the water do not reach the whole distance to the bottom of the glacier below the water; so that a projecting foot of ice remains extending to an indefinite distance underneath the surface. But at occasional intervals, as the superincumbent masses of ice above the surface fall off and relieve the strata below of their weight, these submerged masses suddenly rise, often shooting up considerably higher than they ultimately remain when coming to rest. The bergs formed by this latter process often bear much earthy material upon them, which is carried away with the floating ice, to be deposited finally wherever the melting chances to take place.

Numerous opportunities are furnished about the front and foot of this vast glacier to observe the manner of the formation of kames, kettle-holes, and various other irregular forms into which glacial débris is accustomed to accumulate. Over portions of the decaying foot of the glacier, which was deeply covered with morainic débris, the supporting ice is being gradually removed through the influence of subglacial streams or of abandoned tunnels, which permit the air to exert its melting power underneath. In some places where old moulins had existed, the supporting ice is melting away, so that the superincumbent mass of sand, gravel, and boulders is slowly sliding into a common centre, like grain in a hopper. This must produce a conical hill, to remain, after the ice has all melted away, a mute witness of the impressive and complicated forces which have been so long in operation for its production.

In other places I have witnessed the formation of a long ridge of gravel by the gradual falling in of the roof of a tunnel which had been occupied by a subglacial stream, and over which there was deposited a great amount of morainic material. As the roof gave way, this was constantly falling to the bottom, where, being exempt from further erosive agencies, it must remain as a gravel ridge or kame.

In other places, still, there were vast masses of ice covering many acres, and buried beneath a great depth of morainic material which had been swept down upon it while joined to the main glacier. In the retreat of the ice, however, these masses had become isolated, and the sand, gravel, and boulders were sliding down the wasting sides and forming long ridges of débris along the bottom, which, upon the final melting of the ice, will be left as a complicated network of ridges and knolls of gravel, enclosing an equally complicated nest of kettle-holes.

Beyond Cross Sound the Pacific coast is bounded for several hundred miles by the magnificent semicircle of mountains known as the St. Elias Alps, with Mount Crillon at the south, having an elevation of nearly sixteen thousand feet, and St. Elias in the centre, rising to a greater height. Everywhere along this coast, as far as the Alaskan Peninsula, vast glaciers come down from the mountain-sides, and in many cases their precipitous fronts form the shore-line for many miles at a time. Icy Bay, just to the south of Mount St, Elias, is fitly named, on account of the extent of the glaciers emptying into it and the number of icebergs cumbering its waters.

In the summer of 1890 a party, under the lead of Mr. I. C. Russell, of the United States Geological Survey, made an unsuccessful attempt to scale the heights of Mount St. Elias; but the information brought back by them concerning the glaciers of the region amply repaid them for their toil and expense, and consoled them for the failure of their immediate object.

Fig. 14.—By the courtesy of the National Geographical Society.

Leaving Yakutat Bay, and following the route indicated upon the accompanying map, they travelled on glacial ice almost the entire distance to the foot of Mount St. Elias. The numerous glaciers coming down from the summit of the mountain-ridge become confluent nearer the shore, and spread out over an area of about a thousand square miles. This is fitly named the Malaspina Glacier, after the Spanish explorer who discovered it in 1792.

It is not necessary to add further particulars concerning the results of this expedition, since they are so similar to those already detailed in connection with the Muir Glacier. A feature, however, of special interest, pertains to the glacial lakes which are held in place by the glacial ice at an elevation of thousands of feet above the sea. One of considerable size is indicated upon the map just south of what was called Blossom Island, which, however, is not an island, but simply a nunatak, the ice here surrounding a considerable area of fertile land, which is covered with dense forests and beautified by a brilliant assemblage of flowering plants. In other places considerable vegetation was found upon the surface of moraines, which were probably still in motion with the underlying ice.

Greenland.—The continental proportions of Greenland, and the extent to which its area is covered by glacial ice, make it by far the most important accessible field for glacial observations. The total area of Greenland can not be less than five hundred thousand square miles—equal in extent to the portion of the United States east of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio. It is now pretty evident that the whole of this area, except a narrow border about the southern end, is covered by one continuous sheet of moving ice, pressing outward on every side towards the open water of the surrounding seas.

For a long time it was the belief of many that a large region in the interior of Greenland was free from ice, and was perhaps inhabited. It was in part to solve this problem that Baron Nordenskiöld set out upon his expedition of 1883. Ascending the ice-sheet from Disco Bay, in latitude 69°, he proceeded eastward for eighteen days across a continuous ice-field. Rivers were flowing in channels upon the surface like those cut on land in horizontal strata of shale or sandstone, only that the pure deep blue of the ice-walls was, by comparison, infinitely more beautiful. These rivers were not, however, perfectly continuous. After flowing for a distance in channels on the surface, they, one and all, plunged with deafening roar into some yawning crevasse, to find their way to the sea through subglacial channels. Numerous lakes with shores of ice were also encountered.

Fig. 15.—Map of Greenland. The arrow-points mark the margin of the ice-field.

“On bending down the ear to the ice,” says this explorer, “we could hear on every side a peculiar subterranean hum, proceeding from rivers flowing within the ice; and occasionally a loud, single report, like that of a cannon, gave notice of the formation of a new glacier-cleft.... In the afternoon we saw at some distance from us a well-defined pillar of mist, which, when we approached it, appeared to rise from a bottomless abyss, into which a mighty glacier-river fell. The vast, roaring water-mass had bored for itself a vertical hole, probably down to the rock, certainly more than two thousand feet beneath, on which the glacier rested.”[AJ]

[AJ] Geological Magazine, vol. ix, pp. 393, 399.

At the end of the eighteen days Nordenskiöld found himself about a hundred and fifty miles from his starting-point, and about five thousand feet above the sea. Here the party rested, and sent two Eskimos forward on skidor—a kind of long wooden skate, with which they could move rapidly over the ice, notwithstanding the numerous small, circular holes which everywhere pitted the surface. These Eskimos were gone fifty-seven hours, having slept only four hours of the period. It is estimated that they made about a hundred and fifty miles, and attained an altitude of six thousand feet. The ice is reported as rising in distinct terraces, and as seemingly boundless beyond. If this is the case, two hundred miles from Disco Bay, there would seem little hope of finding in Greenland an interior freed from ice. So we may pretty confidently speak of that continental body of land as still enveloped in an ice-sheet. Up to about latitude 75°, however, the continent is fringed by a border of islands, over which there is no continuous covering of ice. In south Greenland the continuous ice-sheet is reached about thirty miles back from the shore.

A summary of the results of Greenland exploration was given by Dr. Kink in 1886, from which it appears that since 1876 one thousand miles of the coast-line have been carefully explored by entering every fiord and attempting to reach the inland ice. According to this authority—

We are now able to demonstrate that a movement of ice from the central regions of Greenland to the coast continually goes on, and must be supposed to act upon the ground over which it is pushed so as to detach and transport fragments of it for such a distance.... The plainest idea of the ice-formation here in question is given by comparing it with an inundation.... Only the marginal parts show irregularity; towards the interior the surface grows more and more level and passes into a plain very slightly rising in the same direction. It has been proved that, ascending its extreme verge, where it has spread like a lava-stream over the lower ground in front of it, the irregularities are chiefly met with up to a height of 2,000 feet, but the distance from the margin in which the height is reached varies much. While under 6812° north latitude it took twenty-four miles before this elevation was attained, in 7212° the same height was arrived at in half the distance....

A general movement of the whole mass from the central regions towards the sea is still continued, but it concentrates its force to comparatively few points in the most extraordinary degree. These points are represented by the ice-fiords, through which the annual surplus ice is carried off in the shape of bergs.... In Danish Greenland are found five of the first, four of the second, and eight of the third (or least productive) class, besides a number of inlets which only receive insignificant fragments. Direct measurements of the velocity have now been applied on three first-rate and one second-rate fiords, all situated between 69° and 71° north latitude. The measurements have been repeated during the coldest and the warmest season, and connected with surveying and other investigations of the inlets and their environs. It is now proved that the glacier branches which produce the bergs proceed incessantly at a rate of thirty to fifty feet per diem, this movement being not at all influenced by the seasons. . . .

In the ice-fiord of Jakobshavn, which spreads its enormous bergs over Disco Bay and probably far into the Atlantic, the productive part of the glacier is 4,500 metres (about 212 miles) broad. The movement along its middle line, which is quicker than on the sides nearer the shores, can be rated at fifty feet per diem. The bulk of ice here annually forced into the sea would, if taken on the shore, make a mountain two miles long, two miles broad, and 1,000 feet high. The ice-fiord of Torsukatak receives four or five branches of the glacier; the most productive of them is about 9,000 metres broad (five miles), and moves between sixteen and thirty-two feet per diem. The large Karajak Glacier, about 7,000 metres (four miles) broad, proceeds at a rate of from twenty-two to thirty-eight feet per diem. Finally, a glacier branch dipping into the fiord of Jtivdliarsuk, 5,800 metres broad (three miles), moved between twenty-four and forty-six feet per diem.[AK]

[AK] See Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society for February 18, 1886, vol. v, part ii, pp. 286-293.

The principal part of our information concerning the glaciers of Greenland north of Melville Bay was obtained by Drs. Kane and Hayes, in 1853 and 1854, while conducting an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin and his unfortunate crew. Dr. Hayes conducted another expedition to the same desolate region in 1860, while other explorers have to some extent supplemented their observations. The largest glacier which they saw enters the sea between latitude 79° and 80°, where it presents a precipitous discharging front more than sixty miles in width and hundreds of feet in perpendicular height.

Dr. Kane gives his first impressions of this grand glacier in the following vivid description:

“I will not attempt to do better by florid description. Men only rhapsodize about Niagara and the ocean. My notes speak simply of the ‘long, ever-shining line of cliff diminished to a well-pointed wedge in the perspective’; and, again, of ‘the face of glistening ice, sweeping in a long curve from the low interior, the facets in front intensely illuminated by the sun.’ But this line of cliff rose in a solid, glassy wall three hundred feet above the water-level, with an unknown, unfathomable depth below it; and its curved face, sixty miles in length from Cape Agassiz to Cape Forbes, vanished into unknown space at not more than a single day’s railroad-travel from the pole. The interior, with which it communicated and from which it issued, was an unsurveyed mer de glace—an ice-ocean to the eye, of boundless dimensions.

“It was in full sight—the mighty crystal bridge which connects the two continents of America and Greenland. I say continents, for Greenland, however insulated it may ultimately prove to be, is in mass strictly continental. Its least possible axis, measured from Cape Farewell to the line of this glacier, in the neighbourhood of the eightieth parallel, gives a length of more than 1,200 miles, not materially less than that of Australia from its northern to its southern cape.

“Imagine, now, the centre of such a continent, occupied through nearly its whole extent by a deep, unbroken sea of ice that gathers perennial increase from the water-shed of vast snow-covered mountains and all the precipitations of its atmosphere upon its own surface. Imagine this, moving onwards like a great glacial river, seeking outlets at every fiord and valley, rolling icy cataracts into the Atlantic and Greenland seas; and, having at last reached the northern limit of the land that has borne it up, pouring out a mighty frozen torrent into unknown arctic space!

“It is thus, and only thus, that we must form a just conception of a phenomenon like this great glacier. I had looked in my own mind for such an appearance, should I ever be fortunate enough to reach the northern coast of Greenland; but, now that it was before me, I could hardly realize it. I had recognized, in my quiet library at home, the beautiful analogies which Forbes and Studer have developed between the glacier and the river. But I could not comprehend at first this complete substitution of ice for water.

“It was slowly that the conviction dawned on me that I was looking upon the counterpart of the great river-system of Arctic Asia and America. Yet here were no water-feeders from the south. Every particle of moisture had its origin within the polar circle and had been converted into ice. There were no vast alluvions, no forest or animal traces borne down by liquid torrents. Here was a plastic, moving, semi-solid mass, obliterating life, swallowing rocks and islands, and ploughing its way with irresistible march through the crust of an investing sea.”[AL]

[AL] Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, 1854, and 1855, vol. i, pp. 225-228.

Much less is known concerning the eastern coast of Greenland than about the western coast. For a long time it was supposed that there might be a considerable population in the lower latitudes along the eastern side. But that is now proved to be a mistake. The whole coast is very inhospitable and difficult of approach. From latitude 65° to latitude 69° little or nothing is known of it. In 1822-’23 Scoresby, Cleavering, and Sabine hastily explored the coast from latitude 69° to 76°, and reported numerous glaciers descending to the sea-level through extensive fiords, from which immense icebergs float out and render navigation dangerous. In 1869 and 1870 the second North-German Expedition partly explored the coast between latitude 73° and 77°. Mr. Payer, an experienced Alpine explorer, who accompanied the expedition, reports the country as much broken, and the glaciers as “subordinated in position to the higher peaks, and having their moraines, both lateral and terminal, like those of the Alpine ranges, and on a still grander scale.” Petermann Peak, in latitude 73°, is reported as 13,000 feet high. Captain Koldewey, chief of the expedition, found extensive plateaus on the mainland, in latitude 75°, to be “entirely clear of snow, although only sparsely covered with vegetation.” The mountains in this vicinity, also, rising to a height of more than 2,000 feet, were free from snow in the summer. Some of the fiords in this vicinity penetrate the continent through several degrees of longitude.

An interesting episode of this expedition was the experience of the crew of the ship Hansa, which was caught in the ice and destroyed. The crew, however, escaped by encamping on the ice-floe which had crushed the ship. From this, as it slowly floated towards the south through several degrees of latitude, they had opportunity to make many important observations upon the continent itself. As viewed from this unique position the coast had the appearance everywhere of being precipitous, with mountains of considerable height rising in the background, from which numerous small glaciers descended to the sea-level.

In 1888 Dr. F. Nansen, with Lieutenant Sverdrup and four others, was left by a whaler on the ice-pack bordering the east of Greenland about latitude 65°, and in sight of the coast. For twelve days the party was on the ice-pack floating south, and so actually reached the coast only about latitude 64°. From this point they attempted to cross the inland ice in a northwesterly direction towards Christianshaab. They soon reached a height of 7,000 feet, and were compelled by severe northerly storms to diverge from their course, taking a direction more to the west. The greatest height attained was 9,500 feet, and the party arrived on the western coast at Ameralik Fiord, a little south of Godhaab, about the same latitude at which they entered.

It thus appears that subsequent investigations have confirmed in a remarkable manner the sagacious conclusions made by the eminent Scotch geologist and glacialist Robert Brown in 1875, soon after his own expedition to the country. “I look upon Greenland and its interior ice-field,” he writes, "in the light of a broad-lipped, shallow vessel, but with chinks in the lips here and there, and the glacier like viscous matter in it. As more is poured in, the viscous matter will run over the edges, naturally taking the line of the chinks as its line of outflow. The broad lips of the vessel are the outlying islands or ‘outskirts’; the viscous matter in the vessel the inland ice, the additional matter continually being poured in in the form of the enormous snow covering, which, winter after winter, for seven or eight months in the year, falls almost continuously on it; the chinks are the fiords or valleys down which the glaciers, representing the outflowing viscous matter, empty the surplus of the vessel—in other words, the ice floats out in glaciers, overflows the land in fact, down the valleys and fiords of Greenland by force of the superincumbent weight of snow, just as does the grain on the floor of a barn (as admirably described by Mr. Jamieson) when another sackful is emptied on the top of the mound already on the floor. ‘The floor is flat, and therefore does not conduct the grain in any direction; the outward motion is due to the pressure of the particles of grain on one another; and, given a floor of infinite extension and a pile of sufficient amount, the mass would move outward to any distance, and with a very slight pitch or slope it would slide forward along the incline.’ To this let me add that if the floor on the margin of the heap of grain was undulating the stream of grain would take the course of such undulations. The want, therefore, of much slope in a country and the absence of any great mountain-range are of very little moment to the movement of land-ice, provided we have snow enough" On another page Dr. Brown had well said that “the country seems only a circlet of islands separated from one another by deep fiords or straits, and bound together on the landward side by the great ice covering which overlies the whole interior.... No doubt under this ice there lies land, just as it lies under the sea; but nowadays none can be seen, and as an insulating medium it might as well be water.”

In his recently published volumes descriptive of the journey across the Greenland ice-sheet, alluded to on [page 39], Dr. Nansen sums up his inferences in very much the same way: “The ice-sheet rises comparatively abruptly from the sea on both sides, but more especially on the east coast, while its central portion is tolerably flat. On the whole, the gradient decreases the farther one gets into the interior, and the mass thus presents the form of a shield with a surface corrugated by gentle, almost imperceptible, undulations lying more or less north and south, and with its highest point not placed symmetrically, but very decidedly nearer the east coast than the west.”

From this rapid glance at the existing glaciers of the world we see that a great ice age is not altogether a strange thing in the world. The lands about the south pole and Greenland are each continental in dimensions, and present at the present time accumulations of land-ice so extensive, so deep, and so alive with motion as to prepare our minds for almost anything that may be suggested concerning the glaciated condition of other portions of the earth’s surface. The vera causa is sufficient to accomplish anything of which glacialists have ever dreamed. It only remains to enquire what the facts really are and over how great an extent of territory the actual results of glacial action may be found. But we will first direct more particular attention to some of the facts and theories concerning glacial motion.

[CHAPTER III.]

GLACIAL MOTION.

That glacial ice actually moves after the analogy of a semi-fluid has been abundantly demonstrated by observation. In the year 1827 Professor Hugi, of Soleure, built a hut far up upon the Aar Glacier in Switzerland, in order to determine the rate of its motion. After three years he found that it had moved 330 feet; after nine years, 2,354 feet; and after fourteen years Louis Agassiz found that its motion had been 4,712 feet. In 1841 Agassiz began a more accurate series of observation upon the same glacier. Boring holes in the ice, he set across it a row of stakes which, on visiting in 1842, he found to be no longer in a straight line. All had moved downwards with varying velocity, those near the centre having moved farther than the others. The displacements of the stakes were in order, from side to side, as follows: 160 feet, 225 feet, 269 feet, 245 feet, 210 feet, and 125 feet. Agassiz followed up his observations for six years, and in 1847 published the results in his celebrated work System Glacière.

Fig. 16.

But in August, 1841, the distinguished Swiss investigator had invited Professor J. D. Forbes, of Edinburgh, to interest himself in solving the problem of glacial motion. In response to this request, Professor Forbes spent three weeks with Agassiz upon the Aar Glacier. Stimulated by the interest of this visit, Forbes returned to Switzerland in 1842 and began a series of independent investigations upon the Mer de Glace. After a week’s observations with accurate instruments, Forbes wrote to Professor Jameson, editor of the Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, that he had already made it certain that “the central part of the glacier moves faster than the edges in a very considerable proportion, quite contrary to the opinion generally maintained.” This letter was dated July 4, 1842, but was not published until the October following, Agassiz’s results, so far as then determined, were, however, published in Comptes Rendus of the 29th of August, 1842, two months before the publication of Forbes’s letter. But Agassiz’s letter was dated twenty-seven days later than that of Forbes. It becomes certain, therefore, that both Agassiz and Forbes, independently and about the same time, discovered the fact that the central portion of a glacier moves more rapidly than the sides.

In 1857 Professor Tyndall began his systematic and fruitful observations upon the Mer de Glace and other Alpine glaciers. Professor Forbes had already demonstrated that, with an accurate instrument of observation, the motion of a line of stakes might be observed after the lapse of a single clay, or even of a few hours. As a result of Tyndall’s observations, it was found that the most rapid daily motion in the Mer de Glace in 1857 was about thirty-seven inches. This amount of motion was near the lower end of the glacier On ascending the glacier, the rate was found in general to be diminished; but the diminution was not uniform throughout the whole distance, being affected both by the size and by the contour of the valley. The motion in the tributary glaciers was also much less than that of the main glacier.

This diminution of movement in the tributary glaciers was somewhat proportionate to their increase in width. For example, the combined width of the three tributaries uniting to form the Mer de Glace is 2,597 yards; but a short distance below the junction of these tributaries the total width of the Mer de Glace itself is only 893 yards, or one-third that of the tributaries combined. Yet, though the depth of the ice is probably here much greater than in the tributaries, the rapidity of movement is between two and three times as great as that of any one of the branches.[AM]

[AM] See Tyndall’s Forms of Water, pp. 78-82.

From Tyndall’s observations it appears also that the line of most rapid motion is not exactly in the middle of the channel, but is pushed by its own momentum from one side to the other of the middle, so as always to be nearer the concave side; in this respect conforming, as far as its nature will permit, to the motion of water in a tortuous channel.

Fig. 17.

It is easy to account for this differential motion upon the surface of a glacier, since it is clear that the friction of the sides of the channel must retard the motion of ice as it does that of water. It is clear also that the friction of the bottom must retard the motion of ice even more than it is known to do in the case of water. In the formation of breakers, when the waves roll in upon a shallowing beach, every one is familiar with the effect of the bottom upon the moving mass. Here friction retards the lower strata of water, and the upper strata slide over the lower, and, where the water is of sufficient depth and the motion is sufficiently great, the crest breaks down in foam before the ever-advancing tide. A similar phenomenon occurs when dams give way and reservoirs suddenly pour their contents into the restricted channels below. At such times the advancing water rolls onwards like the surf with a perpendicular front, varying in height according to the extent of the flood.

Seasoning from these phenomena connected with moving water, it was naturally suggested to Professor Tyndall that an analogous movement must take place in a glacier. Choosing, therefore, a favourable place for observation on the Mer de Glace where the ice emerged from a gorge, he found a perpendicular side about one hundred and fifty feet in height from bottom to top. In this face he drove stakes in a perpendicular line from top to bottom. Upon subsequently observing them, Tyndall found, as he expected, that there was a differential motion among them as in the stakes upon the surface. The retarding effect of friction upon the bottom was evident. The stake near the top moved forwards about three times as fast as the one which was only four feet from the bottom.

Fig. 18.

The most rapid motion (thirty-seven inches per day) observed by Professor Tyndall upon the Alpine glaciers occurred in midsummer. In winter the rate was only about one-half as great; but in the year 1875 the Norwegian geologist, Helland, reported a movement of twenty metres (about sixty-five feet) per day in the Jakobshavn Glacier which enters Disco Bay, Greenland, about latitude 70°. For some time there was a disposition on the part of many scientific men to doubt the correctness of Holland’s calculations. Subsequent observations have shown, however, that from the comparatively insignificant glaciers of the Alps they were not justified in drawing inferences with respect to the motion of the vastly larger masses which come down to the sea through the fiords of Greenland. The Jakobshavn Glacier was about two and a half miles in width and its depth very likely more than a thousand feet, making a cross-section of more than 1,400,000 square yards, whereas the cross-section of the Mer de Glace at Montanvert is estimated to be but 190,000 square yards or only about one-seventh the above estimate for the Greenland glacier. As the friction of the sides would be no greater upon a large stream than upon a small one, while upon the bottom it would be only in proportion to the area, it is evident that we cannot tell beforehand how rapidly an increase in the volume of the ice might augment the velocity of the glacier.