OUR
ARTIST IN CUBA,
PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

BY
GEORGE W. CARLETON.

Price

50 Cents.

OUR
ARTIST IN CUBA,
PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS.

LEAVES FROM
THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELLER.
1864-1868.

BY
GEORGE W. CARLETON.

"Let observation, with expansive view,

Survey mankind, from China to Peru."

NEW YORK:
Copyright, 1877, by
G. W. Carleton & Co., Publishers.
LONDON: S. LOW & CO.
MDCCCLXXVII.

OUR ARTIST,

HIS MARK.

AN APOLOGY.

——

HE Author of these unpretending little wayside sketches offers them to the Public with the hesitating diffidence of an Amateur. The publication a few years ago, of a portion of the drawings was attended with so flattering a reception, that a new edition being called for, it is believed a few more Leaves from the same vagabond sketch-book may not be intrusive.

The out-of-the-way sort of places in which the Author's steps have led him, must always present the most enticing subjects for a comic pencil; and although no attempt is here made to much more than hint at the oranges and volantes of Cuba, the earthquakes and buzzards of Peru, the donkeys and beggars of Spain, or the Arabs and dates of Algiers, yet sketches made upon the spot, with the crispy freshness of a first impression, cannot fail in suggesting at least a panoramic picture of such grotesque incidents as these strange Countries furnish.

The drawings are merely the chance results of leisure moments; and Our Artist, in essaying to convey a ray of information through the glasses of humor, has simply multiplied with printers' ink his pocket-book of sketches, which, although caricatures, are exaggerations of actual events, jotted down on the impulse of the moment, for the same sort of idle pastime as may possibly lead the reader to linger along its ephemeral pages.

NEW YORK, Christmas, 1877.

PART I.
———
CUBA.

CUBAN SKETCHES.

———

Sick Transit.	The Spanish Tongue.
Two Boobies.	An Unwelcome Visitor.
A Colored Hercules.	An Agreeable Bath.
The Cuban Jehu.	A Celestial Maid.
Iglesia San Francisco.	A Statue on a Bust.
A Cuban Motive.	A Tail Unfolded.
An Influenza.	Money in thy Purse.
Flee for Shelter.	Sugar and Water.
The Ride.	Green Fields.
A Cock-fight.	A Segar well-lighted.
Rather Cool.	Shall Rest be Found.
Take your Pick.	All Aboard.
A Spanish Retreat.	The Matanzas Cave.
Spiders and Rats.	Hard Road to Travel.
Belligerents.	A Shady Retreat.
Materfamilias.	A Spanish Grocer.
Culinary Department.	Colored Help.
A Bundle of Clothes.	Very Moorish.
A Button-Smasher.	Chacun a Son Gout.
White Pantaloons.	Nature's Restorer.
Carnival Acquaintance.	Agricultural.
Beauty at the Ball.	A Cot in the Valley.
A Disappointment.	A Colored Beauty.
Dolce far Niente.	Corner Stones.
Locomotion.	A Sudden Departure.

THE START.—THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA.
AT SEA.

First day out.—The wind freshens up a trifle as we get outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never felt better in his life.

IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.

A "Booby"—as seen from the ship's deck.

A "Booby"—as seen on the ship's deck.

ARRIVAL AT HAVANA.

A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.

STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE MERCADERES.

The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.

VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY.

The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San Francisco,—now used as a Custom House.

STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE TENIENTE RE.

A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.—Ye patient Donkey.

AT THE CAFE LOUVRE.

Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.

THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA.

PART I.—The beast in a torpid condition.
PART II.—When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."

THE NATIONAL VEHICLE OF HAVANA.

Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban Volante.

A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA.

I.—Chanticleer as he goes in.

II.—Chanticleer considerably "played out."

STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE LAMPARILLA.

The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising colored generation of Havana.

THE CUBAN TOOTH-PICK.

Two ways of carrying it—behind the ear, and in the back-hair.

THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA.

View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the Grotto.

THE DOMESTIC INSECTS OF HAVANA.

Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering her chamber and making their acquaintance.

A LITTLE EPISODE IN THE CALLE BARRATILLO.

A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.

STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE COMPOSTELLA.

The Free Negro.—An every-day scene, when the weather is fine.

AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA.

Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."

HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.

A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.

PRIMITIVE HABITS OF THE NATIVES.

Washing in Havana.—$4 00 a dozen in gold.

WASHING IN HAVANA.

I.—My pantaloons as they went in. II.—My pantaloons as they came out.

CARNIVAL IN HAVANA.

A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.—Types of Costume, with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.

A MASK BALL AT THE TACON.

Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls desperately in love with this sweet creature—but

LATER IN THE EVENING,

When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.

STREETS OF HAVANA—CALLE OBRAPIA.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In Repose.

STREETS OF HAVANA—CALLE O'REILLY.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In action.

FIRST HOUR! SECOND HOUR!! THIRD HOUR!!!

Our Artist forms the praiseworthy determination of studying the Spanish language, and devotes three hours to the enterprise.

BED-ROOMS IN CUBA.

The Scorpion of Havana,—encountered in his native jungle.

SEA-BATHS IN HAVANA.

Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge, inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather thinks he won't go in just now.

HOTELS IN HAVANA.

A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de Ingleterra, outside the walls.

HIGH ART IN HAVANA.

A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl, that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the "Cerro."

LOCOMOTION IN THE COUNTRY.

A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.

SHOPPING IN HAVANA.

Our Artist just steps around the corner, to look at a
"sweet thing in fans" that his wife has found.

RESULT!

THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF HAVANA.

Our Artist indulges in a panale frio (a sort of lime-ade), at the Café Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he won't go home till morning.

THE LIZARDS OF CUBA.

Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly specimens.

SMOKING IN HAVANA.

An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a live coal.

THE MUSQUITOS OF HAVANA.

A midsummer's night dream.—Our Artist is just the least bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.

PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA.

A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near Guines.—The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.

ONE OF THE SENSATIONS IN CUBA.

The Great Cave near Matanzas.—Picturesque House over the Entrance.

THE GREAT CAVE NEAR MATANZAS.

A section of the interior—showing the comfortable manner in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and comported himself generally.

THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS.

One of the Fortifications.—Sketched from the end of the Paseo, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain fever.

ARCHITECTURE IN MATANZAS.

A romantic little tienda mista (grocery store) on a corner, in the Calle Ona.

A CAFFETAL NEAR MATANZAS.

Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious manner of toting little niggers.

THE PICTURESQUE IN MATANZAS.

A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.

A SUGAR PLANTATION, NEAR THE YUMORI.

Our Artist essays to drink the milk from a green Cocoa:

Fatal effect.—An uncomfortable sensation!

A BED-CHAMBER IN MATANZAS.

First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."—Our artist is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats, dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.

ECONOMY IS WEALTH.

Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor of two, in San Felipe.

THE SUBURBS OF CALABAZAR.

A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim distance.

PLANTATIONS NEAR MARIANAO.

A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the grinding mill.

ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA.

A conglomerate Esquina, on the corner of Calle Obispo and Monserate.

LAST NIGHT IN HAVANA.

Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their trunk.

PART II.
———
PERU.

PERUVIAN SKETCHES.

Friendly Counsels.	Good for Digestion.
A Disagreeable Berth.	An Eye for an Eye.
A Colored Reception.	Who Knows? (nose).
The Naked Truth.	Discretion in Valor.
A Panama Laundress.	Black Warriors.
A Man for A' Hat.	Music hath Charms.
Domestic Bliss.	A Chariot Race.
A Bit of a Church.	An Antique.
Hot Weather.	Family Arrangement.
What an Ass!	Heads of the People.
A Happy Family.	By their Fruits.
Land at Last.	A Beast of Burden.
Callao Cathedral.	A Night Adventure.
A Baggage Train.	A Runaway.
Cathedral at Lima.	The light Fantastic.
A Water-carrier.	A Rooster.
A Bag of Cuffey.	A Chime of Bells.
Birds of a Feather.	Dog-days.
A China Bowl of Soup.	Pork Business.
Thing of Beauty.	When shall we three.
Fondest Hopes Decay.	Unhand me!
Rat-ification Meeting.	Nothing venture.
A Back Seat.	A great sell.
An excellent View.	A beggarly Show.
Bread-baskets.	A Dead-head.

THE START—STEAMSHIP "HENRY CHAUNCEY." FROM NEW YORK TO ASPINWALL.

Sea-sickness being a weakness of Our Artist, he determines to be fore-armed, and accordingly provides himself with a few simple preventives, warmly recommended by his various friends.

IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA.

Our Artist, having indulged rather freely in the different preventives, gets things mixed, and wishes that his friends and their confounded antidotes were at the bottom of the Dead Sea.

ARRIVAL AT ASPINWALL.

First impressions of the city and its inhabitants.—Colored citizens on the dock, awaiting the steamer's advent.

ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.

View from the window of a Panama railroad car—showing the low-neck and short-sleeve style of costume adopted by the youthful natives of Cruces.—Also a sprightly specimen of the one-eared greyhound indigenous to the country.

A VIEW IN PANAMA.

The old and weather-beaten church of Santa Ana—and in the foreground, with basket on her head, baby under one arm, and bowl of milk supported by the other, a colored lady of West Indian descent, vulgarly known as a "Jamaica nigger."

AN AFTERNOON AT PANAMA.

Deeming it always incumbent upon the traveller to invest in the products of the country, Our Artist provides himself with a good sensible Panama hat, and thus with wife and "mutual friend," he peacefully and serenely meanders around among the suburbs of the city.

A STREET SCENE IN PANAMA.

Our Artist, with the naked eye, beholds a pig, a fighting-cock, and a black baby, all tied by the leg, at the humble doorway of the residence of a colored citizen, in the principal street of the capital of Central America.

IN THE BAY OF PANAMA.

Our Artist wanders about the sleepy little neighboring island, Taboga, where the English steamers lie, and sketches, among other picturesque bits, the clean little whitewashed cathedral in the dirty little Broadway of Taboga.

STEAMSHIP "CHILE."
FROM PANAMA TO CALLAO.

Crossing the equinoctial line, Our Artist discovers that the rays of a vertical sun are anything but bracing and cool.

PAYTA—A SEAPORT IN PERU.

Our Artist, having understood that this town is chiefly remarkable for its fine breed of mules, ironically inquires of a native Venus if this can be considered a good specimen. The N. V. treats Our Artist with silent, stolid, Indian contempt.

NATURAL HISTORY IN PERU.

Our Artist visits a coasting-vessel just arrived from Guayaquil, loaded with every variety of tropical fruit, and a sprinkling of tame monkeys, parrots, alligators, white herons, iguanas, paroquets, spotted deer, etc.

ARRIVAL AT CALLAO—THE HARBOR.

The landing-boat being a trifle too much loaded by the head, Our Artist finds it somewhat difficult to steer.

ARCHITECTURE IN CALLAO.

The little one-story Cathedral on the Plaza, which the earthquakes have so frantically and so vainly tried to swallow up or tumble down.

OURARTIST IN CUBA,PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

OURARTIST IN CUBA,PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS.