FLAT
MACHINE KNITTING
AND FABRICS

By H. D. BUCK

In charge of Knitting in

The Textile School

of the City of New York

Author of articles on

Knitting in Textile World

New York

BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE COMPANY, Publishers

334 Fourth Avenue

Copyrighted, 1921

By H. D. Buck.

TO MY WIFE

Elizabeth Wilson Buck

who has encouraged and assisted me,

this book is affectionately dedicated

PREFACE

When the City of New York established a textile school in 1919 I was asked to take charge of the class in knitting. Although very busy in manufacturing lines, I decided to give up a part of my time to this educational work, believing it to be my duty to do my bit toward helping to fill a long felt want in the industry.

There being no suitable text book available, particularly on the elementary subjects, I was obliged to prepare my own material for the instruction of the students. The results of this work are contained in this volume, which is devoted to the various types of flat latch needle machines. It is my intention to follow this with other volumes covering circular latch needle machines, spring needle machines, etc., with their products.

The various chapters of this work have been published in the knitting technical section of TEXTILE WORLD but I believe their usefulness will be increased by this revision and publication in more convenient book form.

One of the greatest needs for the advancement of the knitting industry to the position it should occupy in the world of textiles is available technical information, and it is hoped that this volume with the ones to follow will supply, in some degree, this need.

H. D. BUCK.

Woodhaven, L. I., New York,

September 1, 1921.

CONTENTS

FLAT MACHINE KNITTING AND FABRICS

CHAPTER I
Development of the Industry—How Cloth is Constructed—Study of Loop

Machine knitting is a much older industry than most people realize, the first knitting machine having been invented in England about the year 1590. In spite of this early start the knitting industry has not made as great progress as some other lines of manufacturing. The great obstacle to its progress, in comparison with that of its rival, the weaving industry, appears to have been the slow realization by people in general, and the producers of knitted goods in particular, of the possibilities of the looped fabric and the diversified uses to which it is suited.

For 250 years or more after the invention of the knitting machine, knitted fabrics were in a general way supposed to be fit only for hosiery. Then some enterprising knitter woke up to the fact that knitted fabric was the ideal fabric for underclothing to be worn next to the body, and there was developed a great industry in knitted underwear.

In very recent years, we have begun to realize that this fabric is suitable for outer garments of various kinds, making up into beautiful, comfortable and serviceable articles of apparel, and the industry is surging ahead by leaps and bounds on this line. The principal reasons for this are: first, the making of knit fabric does not require, in its present state of development, the technical skill required for the making of woven fabrics, notwithstanding the fact that many people not connected with the industry look upon machine knitting as a most mysterious operation; second, the initial investment for a given production is not nearly so great as for woven fabrics; third, knitted fabrics can be produced, yard for yard, or pound for pound, cheaper than woven fabrics.

Knit Fabric Construction

Knitting is the art of constructing fabric or cloth with knitting needles by an interlocking of loops. The essential element of knitting is the loop, for the whole fabric is constructed from a succession of loops.

A loop is a very small length of thread, or yarn, taken at some point at a distance from the end and drawn through, or around, some object, usually another loop. Obviously this will result in two loops. One of these coils around the instrument or needle which draws it through and is called the needle loop, shown by the letter a in Fig. 1. The other loops around the object or previous loop through which it was drawn, and is called the sinker loop, indicated by b, b in Fig. 1. These two loops, not two complete loops, but rather one full needle loop and two halves of the sinker loop, make a stitch, as indicated by the shaded portion of Fig. 1 from c to c.

Fig. 1.
Sinker Loop, Needle
Loop and Stitch.

A course is any number of loops lying side by side in a line crosswise of the fabric, as indicated along dotted lines a, a, Figs. 2 and 3.

A wale is any number of loops in a line succeeding one another lengthwise of the fabric, as indicated along dotted lines b, b, Figs. 2 and 3.

Crosswise of the fabric is the direction in which the yarn feeds while the fabric is in the process of construction, forming loops adjoining one another, or the same direction as the course. Lengthwise of the fabric is the direction in which the fabric is built up by drawing one loop through another, or the same direction as the wale. Therefore the width of the fabric is restricted by the number of loops or needles used as a base, while the length of the fabric has no restrictions other than the supply of material or the will of the knitter. Rib is an alternative expression for wale, but is applicable more particularly where the fabric has a wale on both sides, in which case it is shown as a rib fabric. Where a cloth has a wale on one side only it is known as a jersey fabric, and is also sometimes called flat goods. Rib fabrics will be taken up later for it is my purpose to deal only with jersey or flat fabrics until the theory of knitting is thoroughly explained.

Fig. 2.
Wale and Course, Face.

Fig. 3.
Wale and Course, Back.

A Study of the Loop

A study of the loop is very important to those who wish to acquire a knowledge of knitting, for the whole construction of the knitted fabric is from loops. In fact, knitted fabric is commonly referred to as looped fabric.

Fig. 4.
Fig. 5.
Fig. 6.
Formation of Loops.

Fig. 4 shows the position or form into which the yarn is drawn to form the loops of a plain jersey or flat fabric. Fig. 5 shows a second course of loops drawn through the first. Fig. 6 shows a third course. It is quite evident that in order to draw each of these courses of loops through the preceding one there must be something to sustain or hold the preceding course of loops as well as the new loops during the period in which the new ones are being drawn through. There must also be something on which to start the first row or course of loops for, as stated before, a loop cannot be made without something of stability to draw it through.

It is very important that the reader get firmly fixed in his mind the curves of the loops and the most simple methods of forming them, as he can then more readily understand the necessary movements made on a machine. For this reason I will first take up the most primitive method of knitting; i.e., hand knitting.

Simplest Method of Forming Loops

The needles used for hand knitting are straight rods of steel, wood, bone or celluloid. Not less than two of these needles must be used as indicated in Figs. 7, 8 and 9. To start we take the yarn and make a small slip knot or noose, with which we are all familiar, slip one needle through the loop thus made and draw the yarn up so that it fits around the needle loosely.

Fig. 7.
Forming Loops by Hand, First Step.

Fig. 8.
Forming Loops by Hand, Second Step.

Fig. 9.
Forming Loops by Hand, Completed.

We now have the cornerstone laid. Holding this needle in the left hand with the fore-finger bearing lightly on the loop, we take the other needle in the right hand and slip it through the loop as in Fig. 7, next draw the yarn over the end of the right hand needle as shown, then draw this needle back to the point where it will pass the left side of the loop on the right hand needle, but not far enough to allow the yarn that was placed over the end to drop off. Then we draw this yarn through as indicated in Fig. 8, and we will have the second loop.

At this point in the building up of the fabric we would slip the previous loop off the left hand needle and let it hang on the newly formed loop on the right hand needle, as in Fig. 9, but as we are not as yet building, but only laying the foundation, we slip this new loop back on the left hand needle, where we now have two loops. The next step is to take the right hand needle, slip it through the second loop, and proceed as with the first, then slip the third loop back on the left hand needle. This procedure is repeated until there are sufficient loops to make the fabric the width wanted. We now have our foundation on which to build.

Figs, 7, 8 and 9 give a very clear illustration of the method of building up the knit fabric by hand knitting after the first course. It should be noted, however, that after the right hand needle has completed the new course, and the last loop has been dropped off the left hand needle, the right hand needle with its full number of loops is shifted to the left hand and the empty needle then becomes the working needle in the right hand.

This first course of stitches, it should be noted, has the needle loop only, the sinker loop being tied in to form a base or edge from which to start. Fig. 7 shows the first position to form the loops with two needles. One full course is on the needle lettered a, while needle b is thrust through the first loop of the last course and receiving yarn to draw through a new loop.

Fig. 8 shows the new loop drawn through, while Fig. 9 shows the old or preceding loop cast off from needle a and hanging from the new loop on needle b.

Fig. 10.
Crochet Stitch,
Catching Thread.

Fig. 11.
Crochet Stitch,
Drawing Stitch.

Figs. 10 and 11 show the crochet stitch, which is taken up at this point to show its similarity to the knitted loop and to explain the points of difference. The illustrations show very plainly the method of forming crochet loops and they also show that this stitch is simply a single chain or wale of loops succeeding one another.

When crochet work is to be made into a fabric, the hooked needle is pushed through the side of another loop at the point at which it is to be joined, and the new loop is drawn through this old loop as well as the one on the needle. There is never more than one loop used at a time in making this work.

Fig. 12. – Back
Fig. 13. – Face
Jersey Fabric.

In the knitted fabric the loops are laid side by side and there are a sufficient number of loops being used at all times to make the width of fabric desired. The wales are bound together by the yarn passing from one loop to the next adjoining one, thereby forming the sinker loops which have already been explained.

Figs. 12 and 13 are photographic reproductions of a piece of closely knitted jersey or flat goods. The stitch formation in this cloth is exactly the same as shown in the line drawings at Figs. 2 and 3.

It may be well to state here in passing, that all textile fibres have more or less flexibility or resiliency, and while this characteristic is infinitely small in any single fibre or hair, it is quite appreciable when there are hundreds of fibres grouped together and twisted into a yarn. This is the reason for the elasticity or stretch in knitted fabrics.

It will be noticed in Fig. 2 that in forming the loops the curvature or bend of the thread is gradual and uniform. When this yarn is knitted into fabric and both top or needle loop, and bottom or sinker loop are attached to or drawn through other and like loops, and we pull or stretch the fabric, we draw sharp curves or corners in the yarn where it passes around the preceding and succeeding loops. When we let go or take the strain off the fabric, the natural tendency of the fibre to straighten out or take an easier curve brings the fabric back into its original position.

I would suggest that the reader take any straight piece of yarn, worsted if available, form a loop, and hold it between the thumb and finger of one hand, then press the loop together with the thumb and finger of the other hand and demonstrate for himself this characteristic of textile fibres.

CHAPTER II
Latch Needle Knitting—Making Jersey Cloth on the Lamb Type of Machine

Although what is known as the spring beard needle was a part of the original invention of the knitting machine, and was in use more than 200 years before the latch needle was invented, I am taking up the latch needle machine first for two reasons. First, because the latch needle type of machine is most largely used and is more popular in this country today than any other type; and second, because I believe it can be more easily understood by a person who is not familiar with machine knitting.

Fig. 14.
Latch Needles.

In machine knitting of every kind there must be a needle for every loop, and therein lies the fundamental difference between machine and hand knitting. Latch needles, however, are constructed entirely different from the straight plain hand needles. Fig. 14 shows the construction of the latch needle. It will be noted by looking at the latches on the three needles that they swing freely on a pin or rivet lengthwise of the needle, but have no movement sidewise.

Types of Latch Needle

The hook, latch, rivet, cheek, throat and stem are substantially the same except in size in all latch needles, but the balance of the needle may and does vary in shape to a marked degree in the various types and makes of machines. Fig. 15 shows many of the different types of butts and shanks made, as well as the variation in the sizes of the hooks and the thickness of the needles, but it should be understood that the type of the butt and shank has no bearing on the size of the hook and stem, as each type is made in the various sizes and is governed only by the size of the yarn to be used.

Fig. 16 is a very important illustration and the reader should study it well and mentally digest every position of the needles, for here is shown a complete cycle of the movements necessary to make the knitted loop on a latch needle machine of the type in which the needles slide back and forth, lengthwise of the needle, in what are called tricks, or more commonly expressed, slots. Probably 95 per cent. or more of the latch needle machines in use today are of the type in which the needle slides back and forth in slots in the operation of forming the loops.

Fig. 15.
Some of the Various Types of Latch Needles.

Explanation of Lamb Type Machine

A study of Fig. 16 should be made in connection with the photographic reproductions, Figs. 17 and 18. Fig. 18 shows substantially the whole knitting machine, while Fig. 17 is a close-up view of that part of the machine which actually does the knitting. Fig. 16 shows the principle used to operate the needles.

This type of machine was invented in 1863 by Isaac W. Lamb, a clergyman, and was made possible only by the invention of the latch needle in England about 1847. It is very simple in construction in the plain models and is the most versatile of all the knitting machines, it being possible to make on it a larger variety of stitches and articles of apparel than on any other machine. It is known as the flat or Lamb type of machine.

It has two flat or straight horizontal plates or beds about one-half inch thick by 6 inches wide, the length of which varies from 6 inches or less to 60 inches or more, according to the width of fabric it is designed to make. These plates are set in a frame, parallel to each other lengthwise, and at an angle of about 90 degrees to each other and 45 degrees to the horizontal. See Figs. 16, 17 and 20.

All flat machines of this type have two needle plates, but for our purpose of knitting jersey fabric we need but one, therefore we will imagine that there are two in Fig. 16 but the back one having no needles in it cannot do any knitting. The needles, as will be noted in Fig. 16, are placed in tricks or slots of which there may be any number from 2½ up to 18 in one inch, according to the size of the yarn to be used. The needles should fit in the slots close enough so that they will not have any chance to tip sidewise, yet they must move easily endwise. The gib c, c, is for holding the needles in the plate, and of course is removed by drawing out endwise when a needle is to be put in or taken out of the plate. The plate is secured in a frame indicated by the letter n in Fig. 16, and the frame is attached to a stationary stand or table.

The cams a-1, a-2 and a-3 are attached to the carriage b, b, b, b, Fig, 17, at a point just below a-1, a-2 and a-3 and the carriage, together with the cams, rests and slides freely back and forth on the ways c, c, while the plate and needles remain stationary. The cams are secured to the carriage in a position so that they come very close to the needle plates. They should be set as close as possible and not rub the plate as they are moved back and forth.

It may be well to explain here that a cam in any machine is a piece of hardened steel of the proper shape and construction to cause some other part of the machine to make the proper movements to perform its functions. In this instance they actuate the needles by coming in contact with the butts.

It will be noted that each one of the needles from e to e, Fig. 16, has a loop in the hook except from the point where they are rising over the cam a-3, and on these the loops rest on the shank. It should be understood that the fabric back of the needle plate has a weight on it, thereby giving to each loop a downward pull. The fabric and weights may be seen in Fig. 18.

Fig. 16.
Principle Used to Form Loops on a Machine.

Now bear in mind that the cams a-1, a-2 and a-3, Fig. 16, are attached to the carriage b, b, b, b, Fig. 17, at points underneath a-1, a-2 and a-3. These cams are moving from right to left and as the lower left hand corner of a-3 is below the line of the butts of the needles from e to e, they, the needles, must of necessity slide upward in the slots along the edge of this cam. When they get to the top it will be noted that the latches of the needles are above and clear of the loops. As the cams move farther along, the cam a-2 comes in contact with the butts and slides them down again. As the needles move downward the hooks catch the thread i which lies in their path, and as at l the stitch that is on the needle closes the latch as the needle slides downward. As the needle moves farther down the hook draws a new loop through the old one, while the latch closing up the hook allows the old loop to slip over the end (needle m), and the pull of the fabric draws it down on to the new loop.

Fig. 17.
Top Side of Carriage, Over Cams.

The thin portions of the needle plate indicated by the letter h in Fig. 16, which extend upwards, are called jacks and these hold that part of the stitch called sinker loops while the needle is drawing through the new needle loop.

Below each needle is a U-shaped spring, j, j, and k, k, Fig. 16, which holds the needles up in the working position. They extend down to and around the bottom of the plate and up against the under side of the plate. The end that is under the plate is a little longer than the end that slides up in the slot below the needle. These U-springs are made so that before they are put in their places on the plate, the ends come together, so when they are spread and pushed on to the plate they act as a clamp to hold the needles in position. They are not attached to the needles, but simply clamp the plate with tension enough to hold them up or down, as the case may be, and the bottom end of the needles rests on them. This construction leaves the knitter in a position to pull d own out of working position as many needles as he may wish, therefore he may make his fabric any desired width by pulling needles down out of the working line or pushing them up into the working line, thereby adding to or taking away stitches.

The letter d in Fig. 17 designates the yarn carrier through which the yarn passes, and which guides the yarn along the path of the hooks of the needles. After having moved the carriage clear across the working needles, and finishing a course of loops, the carriage is moved back in the opposite direction and another course is put on. This is done in exactly the same way except that the cams must necessarily push or slide the needles up and down on the opposite sides of the cams: i.e., the butts slide up on the right hand side of the V-cam or cam a-3 in Fig. 16 and down the right hand side of cam a-1, or stitch cam. This operation is continued until the fabric is of the desired length.

Needles are operated at a rate of speed that would make 500 or more stitches per minute per needle if the machine would keep them in continuous operation, but in practical work they make from 50 to 200 stitches per minute according to the size of the machine as more time is consumed as a rule in the movements of the machine between the stitches than is used in the actual knitting operation. On account of this speed of operation the latches of the needles must be under control at all points in the cycle of knitting; that is, from f to g in Fig. 16.

Control of Latches

It will be noted that needle o in Fig. 16 has just started to rise and the stitch that was in the hook has opened the latch and still has it under control. When this needle gets up to the position of needle p it has passed the point where the stitch can control the latch, therefore, other means must be provided or it would be very liable to fly up and close the hook, in which case it would be impossible for the hook to catch the yarn for the next stitch. When this happens we have what is called a drop stitch, and after the yarn had passed there would be no stitch on the needle.

Fig. 18.
Flat Latch Needle Machine.

To provide against this there is used in this type of machine a long narrow thin bristle brush set over the needles and at the proper angle and distance to just clear the latches. This brush is shown in Fig. 19. The letter a indicates the brush alone, and at b is shown the brush in the fixture which carries it. The letter c indicates the brush carrier. Fig. 20 is a view looking down from above the machine and shows the brushes, a and b, set ready to operate in the machine. So as not to confuse the reader I will say here that all previous illustrations presenting this part of the machine have shown it with the brushes removed in order to make clear the operation of the needles.

Fig. 19.
Latch Brushes.
One Mounted in its Holding Clamp, or Fixture.

Fig. 21.
Tubular Fabric Made on a Flat Machine.

Fig. 20.
Position of Latch Brushes When on the Machine.

A fabric made according to the foregoing explanations would be what is known as a jersey fabric (see Figs. 12 and 13), but it would be a flat piece of fabric when finished. Perhaps to make it plainer I should say that if the fabric were laid out on a table it would be a single thickness, and if it were to be made into a garment it would be necessary to double it over and sew the edges together to make it tubular, or in the form of a bag. If we wish to make the fabric tubular on the machine to save the labor of seaming it, and also prevent the unsightly seam, it would be necessary to use the needles in both plates, front and back. The cams would then be set by means provided, which will be explained later, so that when the carriage is moved in one direction, say from left to right, the front cams will operate the front needles and the back cams will be put out of operation; and when the carriage is moved from right to left, the back cams will operate the back needles and the front cams will be put out of work.

Fig. 22.
Jersey Fabric Made on
a Machine With 24 Needles
to One Inch.

Fig. 23.
Jersey Fabric Made on
a Machine With 2½ Needles
to One Inch.

By continuing the operation of the machine in this manner of having only the front cams operate while moving the carriage in one direction, and only the back cams operate when the carriage is moved in the opposite direction, there would be produced a tubular fabric as shown in Fig. 21. The yarn must of a necessity go across from front needles to back ones, and from back ones to front ones each time the direction of the movement of the carriage is changed, thereby closing up both sides of the fabric.

Range of Jersey Fabric

The jersey type of fabric is very popular with the consuming public and is used for quite a wide range of garments in many different weights and materials. Milady may easily be dressed throughout, with the exception of shoes, in jersey cloth, and still be up to the minute with her clothes. She may have on silk stockings which are made with the jersey stitch. Her underwear, most surely is made of silk jersey fabric. Then she may wear a tricolet waist, which is silk jersey fabric, with a worsted jersey cloth suit. Also she might easily have her fall and winter coat made from the heavyweight fulled jersey cloth, and carry a heavy Shaker sweater, which is also the jersey stitch, on her motor trips into the country.

It is a far cry from the finest and lightest to the heaviest and coarsest in jersey cloth. Figs. 22 and 23 show two extremes. Fig. 22 is a sample of fine fabric and has 32 stitches to one inch; while Fig. 23 is used for what is known as the Shaker sweater and has 3½ stitches to one inch. Between these come men’s balbriggan underwear and the flat woolen underwear, the jersey bathing suits, tricolet, and the fulled jersey cloth for ladies’ suits and coats, etc. This stitch is also the basic one for medium priced knit neckties, as well as knit mittens and gloves, except the very lightest and thinnest.

CHAPTER III
Rib Fabric Group—How Stitch is Made for Different Cloths

There are numerous conflicting expressions or terms used in the knit goods industry, and one of the most common of these is the term “flat goods.” In the older underwear sections, where the circular machine was used exclusively and the flat machine was practically unknown, the term flat goods indicated underwear fabric made tubular in the jersey stitch on circular spring needle machines, as distinguished from tubular rib fabric made on latch needle machines. At present, in the localities where mills are using both the circular and flat straight needle bed machines, it is generally understood that a flat fabric is a fabric of single thickness made on a flat machine, regardless of the stitch, and any fabric made on a circular machine is known as a tubular fabric. If the stitch should be specified it is mentioned separately.

This latter custom appears to me to be the more logical; therefore, when these terms are used hereafter in this work it should be understood that flat fabric means cloth of a single thickness made on a flat machine, or a tubular fabric cut open so it will lie out flat. The “flat goods” of the old time knitters will be called jersey cloth or fabric.

We will now leave the jersey fabrics for a time, as the making of the tuck stitch and plated work in the jersey stitch are more or less complicated and had better be left until we take up fancy stitches and designs on circular latch needle machines. The tuck stitch is never used in the jersey fabrics on flat machines.

Rib Fabrics

A rib fabric is one which has a rib or wale on both sides of the cloth. It has much more stretch or elasticity than cloth of the jersey group; about twice as much, generally speaking. The elasticity of either one, however, may be varied to a marked degree by changing the length of loop drawn.

Rib fabric is peculiarly adapted for such garments or parts of garments as should be close fitting, such as ladies’ undergarments, cuffs for all kinds of knitted garments, tops of half hose, etc. Fig. 24 shows very clearly the course the yarn takes to form this stitch. It would be well to study this drawing in connection with Figs. 2 and 3 and note carefully the different course the yarn takes in order to form a wale on both sides of the fabric. A photographic reproduction of a plain rib fabric showing both sides is given at a, a, in Fig. 25.

Fig. 24.
Construction of a Plain
Rib Fabric.

A properly constructed plain 1 and 1 rib fabric, such as is shown in Fig. 24, should be alike on both sides. Very often this is not the case. A little carelessness on the part of the adjuster in not drawing the stitch the same length on both sides will make a difference on the flat machines, while it is impossible to make them the same on an ordinary circular machine on account of the principles of construction of this machine.

Fig. 26 is a view of a flat machine making the rib stitch, looking down from above. It almost fully explains the method of making this stitch to those who have carefully read and understand the principles of making the jersey stitch. In this illustration the carriage is moving from right to left, and both front and back cams are in operation, therefore both front and back needles are working.

It should be noted that the back plate is set so that the needles of that plate come up at a point in the middle of the spaces between the needles of the front plate. The cams, front and back, being made exactly alike and set exactly opposite one another, must push the needles of both plates up at the same time and draw them down at the same time. When we feed the yarn, indicated by the letter a in Fig. 26, down through the guide, b, it is drawn into loops from both sides alternately, as shown at c, by the opposite sets of needles, thereby making stitches, or ribs, or wales, on both sides of the fabric. This is the plain 1 and 1 rib stitch.

Fig. 25.
Face and Back of Fabric;
a, a, Plain Rib;
b, c, Half Cardigan;
d, d, Full Cardigan.

Fig. 26.
Flat Knitting Machine Making the Rib Stitch.

Varieties of Rib

This stitch, by distortion, or by manipulation of the yarns or needles, or by a combination of two or all three of these things, can produce a number of fabrics different both in appearance and feel. To enumerate the principal ones, there are the half cardigan or tuck stitch, also sometimes called royal rib; the full cardigan, and the rack stitch with the rack on one side of the fabric and the double rack which shows the rack on both sides of the fabric. Then there is the zig-zag stitch, which is quite simple to make but is quite a puzzle to those not familiar with it. There is also the cotton back, which is a well known and popular fabric in the sweater trade.

Then there are many varieties of ribs made either in plain or in combination with one or more of the above by taking needles out of the machine at predetermined places, or by the Jacquard system of selecting needles. There is also the system of making designs by the cut pressers and pattern wheels, which is used on circular machines only.

Half Cardigan or Tuck Stitch

The half cardigan or tuck stitch is used more than any other of the ribbed group, though it is generally used in combination with the plain rib. The body and sleeves of the ordinary rib sweater, and much of the rib underwear produced, are made in this stitch while the cuffs are plain rib. The reason for this is that the half cardigan rib will knit up considerably wider, with the same number of needles, than the plain rib, therefore it is possible to make a shaped garment without cutting and sewing up again. Also the plain rib comes out lighter and thinner so makes a more desirable cuff for sweaters and underwear. It also has more life or spring to it, which is another desirable feature.

The half cardigan or tuck stitch is the one that is almost invariably used in making the well known cotton back sweaters. It is believed by many people who are familiar with this fabric that the back stitch of cotton does not come through on the face, but in this they are mistaken. The face stitch does not go through on the back, but the back yarn does go through on the face.

Fig. 27.
Construction of a Half Cardigan
Rib Fabric.

Fig. 27 is a line drawing showing the course the yarn takes in making this stitch and a careful examination of it will demonstrate to the reader that this is the case. The dotted line e, e, indicates the wale on the face and f, f, shows the wale on the back. It will be noted that the back stitches of yarn come through to the face of the fabric and connect the preceding and succeeding stitches, c, c, the same as in the plain rib, but there is this difference, in the plain rib these face stitches are, or should be, just the same length, while in the half cardigan, on account of the back stitch of this course holding over for one course, it necessarily draws a longer stitch in the back and the yarn for this long stitch must come from the face stitch, thereby making this face stitch very short.

In the drawing the stitches are not proportioned just as they lie in the actual fabric, for if they were it would be very difficult to trace their course. In the fabric the stitches b, b are so short that they are almost completely covered by the large, full, round stitches, c, c, c. These stitches are full and large from the fact that where they go through to the back they do not form a loop but simply cross over the back loop as at d, without being drawn through. These are completely covered by the loops a, a, in the back wale.

How the Half Cardigan or Tuck Stitch Is Made

The diagram at Fig. 28 shows the method used to make the half cardigan or tuck stitch on a flat machine. The cams shown are what are known as the Lamb system and are called the automatic cardigan or drop locks. The word “locks,” as applied to the flat knitting machine, means a full set of cams attached to the cam plates ready to affix to the carriage. There are a number of different systems of constructing these locks, but the one selected is the most simple of all and for this reason is used for illustration first. The others will be taken up at the proper place.

Fig. 28.
Automatic Locks for Making Half or Full Cardigan Fabrics.

In Fig. 28 only a part of the needle plates are shown. They are attached to a frame at an angle of 90° to each other and 45° to the horizontal as explained before. The cams are shown in working position with the carriage (to which they are attached when in use) removed. As indicated by the thread h, they are being moved toward the far end.

It should be noted that the automatic drop V-cams a, a, are in different positions. These cams are made so that they swing freely on the pivots b, b, and the swing is inside of the limits of the positions of the two cams in the drawing. It is controlled by pins on the top side of the swinging ends, the pins coming through a slot of the proper length in the cam plate to stop them at the right place.

When starting to move these locks from the near end toward the far end, the cam a, on the left, might be in any position within the limits of the before mentioned slot in the cam plate, but the instant it comes in contact with the butts of the needles it is automatically forced to the position shown.

In making the half cardigan stitch the right hand cam is held up to the top, as shown, at all times by means provided. This position forces the needles high enough so that the latches are above and clear of the loop that is on the needle, therefore when the needles are drawn down again by the cam f, they draw new loops and cast the old ones off over the latch and hook, and they drop down on the new loop, just as explained in describing how to make the plain rib. This refers only to the needles in the right plate.

The cam a, on the left side, however, having been swung down to its lowest position by contact with the needle butts, raises the needles only about one-half of the normal distance. Or to put it differently, the needles raise high enough to open the latches and catch the yarn when being drawn down again, but not high enough to permit the loop that is on the needle to slide down below the latch. Therefore, after the completion of the course we have the right side with the new loop drawn through the old one as in plain rib, but the left side still retains the old or previous loop and also the new one as at j. This leaves two loops on every needle on the left side and one on the right when the course is completed.

On the return course, from the far end to the near end, when the point i of the left cam, a, comes in contact with the first needle it must swing up in the same position as the right cam, a, therefore all the needles will draw the new loop through the two preceding ones and clear themselves, leaving only one loop on each needle as in the plain rib.

On the next course, from the near end to the far end, the left hand needles again hold the old loop and take on a new one as just explained, while the right hand needles cast off the old ones and hold only the new ones.

To condense the operation into a few words let us say that the left hand needles always must hold the two stitches while moving in one direction, and clear them off and hold only one on the return course; while the right hand needles always cast off the old stitch and hold the new ones only. The right hand needles would make the face side of the fabric.

The writer has made a special effort to explain the formation of this particular stitch, and the reader should make the same effort to get this formation clear in his mind, for this stitch is the base of almost all of the fancy stitches or design work which will be taken up later. The system used in design work is of course entirely different from the one just described, being what might be called a selective system, that is, a method whereby the designer may select the proper needles at the proper time and place to make the tuck stitches block out the design wanted.

Fig. 25, at band c, shows the tuck or half cardigan stitch; b is the face and c is the back. If studied carefully the reader will notice that the face side, b, has a full round stitch, while c, or the back of the fabric, has a small narrow stitch.

The Full Cardigan Stitch

The full cardigan stitch is not nearly so generally used as the half cardigan and plain rib stitches. It is seldom if ever used in making underwear or any fine fabrics. When it is made it is usually used for sweater fabrics or other novelty wearing apparel of this character.

Fig. 29.
Construction of a Full Cardigan Fabric.

A line drawing of the full cardigan stitch is shown in Fig. 29. This stitch, as its name would indicate, is made in the same way as the half cardigan only the stitches are held alternately on both rows of needles on alternate courses. Referring again to Fig. 28, in making the full cardigan stitch the cams would operate exactly the same while moving toward the far end as shown and explained for the half cardigan. But the means provided to hold the right hand cam, a, at the top position would have been removed, so that on the return from the far to the near end this cam would be thrown down to the same position as the left hand cam, a, is shown, while this left hand cam would be forced up into the position in which the right hand cam is now shown. In other words, the stitch would be the same with the carriage or cams moving in either direction, only it would alternate on each course from one row of needles to the other.

We will refer back to Fig. 25, which shows both sides of a piece of fabric with the three stitches we have just discussed in one piece. This shows quite plainly the individual characteristics of each. All have the same number of needles or wales, the same yarn was used, on the same machine; yet how different the results!

The most marked difference is in the width. There is proportionately the same difference in the thickness, but this cannot very well be shown. It should be observed that the stitch or loops of the plain rib a, a, and the full cardigan d, d, are the same on both sides of the fabric, while the stitches in the half cardigan, b and c, are not. It will be noted also that the stitch of the plain rib is much smaller than that of the two cardigans, also that the wales or ribs hug very close together in the plain rib, while they are separated more or less in the cardigans.

CHAPTER IV
The Rack Stitch—Making Shaped Collars—Opportunities in Designing Fabrics

The rack stitch is used on many sweaters for a border on the bottom, also for a narrow strip on both sides of the shoulder seam, and a strip at the place the stitch changes from half cardigan to plain for the cuff. Many sweaters have the collar and the border down the front made separately in the rack stitch and sewed on. Most of the designs in the knitted neckties made on flat machines are based on the rack stitch. Another very important use for this stitch is in making a smooth sightly edge on the bottom of sweaters, the ends of cuffs, etc.

The rack stitch is always made on one of the cardigans. From this statement the reader will realize that this stitch is not made in place of the half or full cardigan, or any other stitch but is an addition to, or a further development of these stitches.

Fig. 30.
Half Cardigan Stitch Ready to Rack.

Fig. 31.
Stitch After Plate Has Been Racked Over One Needle.

Fig. 30 shows a half cardigan stitch ready to rack, as it is customary to make the one needle rack on this stitch. It should be noticed that the racking is done on the course that holds, or does not cast the previous stitch off on one side. Fig. 31 shows the stitch after the plate has been racked over one needle. This illustration practically explains the whole principle of the rack stitch. The rack will show on the side that casts the stitches off the needles. It is customary to hold the stitch or tuck on the back plate, therefore the rack shows on the front side of the fabric, or the side toward the operator of the machine.

Operation of Racking

It is understood, of course, that on a flat machine there must always be an end needle on one plate or the other. Usually the knitter sets up his machine with one plate carrying the end needle on one side of the work and the other plate carrying the other end needle. Which end of the respective plates carries this needle depends on the position of the racking cam. In the illustration, Fig. 30, the front plate has the end needle on the right and back plate has the end needle on the left. After racking as in Fig. 31, these positions are reversed. It will be noted that the front plate has been racked or moved over one needle so the front needles will come up through and operate between the next two needles to the left of their previous positions.

Or to explain it in a different way, in Fig. 30, before racking, the front plate has the end needle on the right and operates outside of the last needle in the back plate, but after racking, as in Fig. 31, this end needle on the front plate has been shifted over so it comes up inside the last needle in the back plate.

After racking over one needle there must be one full round or two courses put on before racking again; that is while racking on the half cardigan stitch, and then the plate is racked back to the first position. This operation of racking first one way and then the other with a round between each rack is continued until the necessary number of racks are finished and then the operator proceeds with the plain half cardigan.

This procedure would make a plain rack on one side of the fabric only. We have assumed in this explanation that the back is stationary and the front plate is the one that moves, but I wish to have it understood here that it makes no difference which plate is stationary and which one racks or is movable; the results are the same.

Some writers use the words shog or shogged in place of rack or racked, but the writer of this work has avoided the use of these words as they are seldom or never used by the practical knitter, at least not in this country.

The Racking Mechanism

In most of the modern flat machines the plate that racks has enough end clearance to rack over at least two needles, and some of them as many as four, though racking two needles is sufficient for all ordinary work. Fig. 32 shows the method of racking or moving the plate to make the rack stitch, or at least this is the principle used as a rule on the imported machines, with some modifications by some makers. This also applies to the method shown of attaching the plates to the frame.

Fig. 32.
The Racking Cam, Ratchet and Studs.

There is a large flat bottom hole, c, bored about half way through the plate; through the bottom of this hole there is made an elongated hole, b, through which the plate is attached to the frame by the shouldered screw, a, the head of which is flush with the top of the plate. It will readily be seen that with this method the plate cannot be moved in any direction except lengthwise of the plate, or crosswise of the needles. To secure this movement at will there is a steel strap, d, attached to the under side of the plate by the screws j and k, and through the outside end of this strap there are two elongated holes through which are attached two shouldered studs with nuts e and f. These studs extend down on both sides of the steps of the racking cam, g, and together with the plate are moved back and forth by the steps on the racking cam. The cam is moved by the handle, i, in the hand machines, or by the ratchet, h, being operated by pawls or dogs in power machines.

The letter h shows a front elevation of the ratchet, while i is a side view. It will be noted that there are only three teeth on each side, and these two groups are opposed one to the other. If the reader will examine the racking cam, g, with due thought the reason for this will be obvious. There are three steps on the cam and the cam must have an oscillating movement and not a rotary one. The ratchet, h, and the racking cam, g, are both attached securely to one hub, therefore must move together on a stud which projects from the end of the frame.

The plate as illustrated in Fig. 32, sets at the limit of its movement to the left, consequently any racking that is to be done must move the plate to the right, therefore the pawl at the top of the ratchet would engage the uppermost tooth, q, and turning the ratchet one tooth would move the racking cam one step, thus moving the plate over one needle through its contact with the studs, e and f. There are two pawls, upper and lower, arranged to engage the teeth on the ratchet either at the top or the bottom as required. If we wanted a one-needle rack only, after putting on one round of stitches we would have the lower pawl engage the tooth, n, of the ratchet and move the racking cam back to its first position. If, however, we wanted a two-needle rack, the upper pawl would engage the second tooth, o, of the ratchet. For three racks it would then engage the next tooth, m, after which it would be necessary to start on the return to the first position, remembering to put on one course or one round, as the case may be, of stitches between each rack. If racking on the half cardigan stitch there should be one full round between the racks, but if on the full cardigan the racking may be done every half round or every course, as will be explained hereafter.

Fig. 33 is a photographic reproduction of a piece of fabric, face and back, of a one-needle rack which shows on one side of the fabric only. A fabric with the two-needle rack which would show on both sides of the fabric is not illustrated, for it would be the same on both sides as the face side of Fig. 33. A line drawing of the rack stitch is shown at Fig. 34. This is drawn out of proportion and is very loose and not like the fabric, but by making it this way the direction the yarn takes may be easily located.

Fig. 33.
Face and Back of One-Needle Rack.

The Zig-Zag Stitch

Fig. 34.
Position of Stitch After Racking.

Fig. 35 is an example of a fabric that may be made with a one-needle rack. It is called the zig-zag stitch. To make this the machine should be set to make the full cardigan stitch. After setting up the machine and putting on one round, the needle plate is racked over one needle, put on a course or half round and rack back one needle. Continue this racking back and forth on each course for five rounds, then skip one rack or put on one full round without racking and continue as before. Repeat this operation of racking every course for five rounds and then skip one rack and we have a zig-zag stitch.

Fig. 35.
Zig-Zag Stitch.

The points come where the rack is skipped, or in other words the direction of the diagonal stitch will continue in the same direction as long as the needle plate is racked every course without skipping, but immediately one rack is missed the stitch starts diagonally in the other direction. It is obvious from the foregoing explanation that the knitter is not obliged to use any set number of courses between the change, but may use any number at his discretion to get the distance desired between the points.

Shaped Collar for Sweaters

The peculiar characteristic of this stitch is utilized in making a shaped collar for sweaters, as shown in Figs. 38 and 39. First let the reader remember that the direction the diagonal stitch takes all depends on which end of the machine the carriage is at when the racking operation begins. It should be understood that the collars are made in a long string and the three parts, as shown in Fig. 38, are duplicated one after another. On either end, where this piece has been cut off, there was a duplicate of the plain racked piece shown at the middle, and at the end of these there was another diagonal piece, and so on from the beginning to the end.

Fig. 38.
Shaped Collar for Sweaters as Knit.

It should be clear to the reader that if the piece shown (Fig. 38) were cut through on the broken lines we would have one complete collar and we would have left the diagonal stitch that belongs on one end of each of the two adjoining center pieces, therefore by cutting all the collars apart at the point indicated by the line we would have our collars shaped without any waste and would have a selvage or finished edge on the outside.

Fig. 39.
Shaped Collar Folded.

The collar is stitched or sewed on the neck opening of the sweater along the cut edge and across the bottom of the racked center piece, and after it is finished and the sweater coat buttoned up it folds over and looks as shown in Fig. 39. As stated before this collar can be made on a machine that racks over only one needle, but in that case the center piece would be racked on one side only, therefore it is customary to make these collars on a two needle rack machine with the middle portion racked on both sides as will be noted in Fig. 39.

Making a rack on both sides of the fabric is very much like making the diagonal stitch in the operation of the machine, even though the resultant fabric is so radically different. It should be made with a full cardigan stitch same as the zig-zag or diagonal, and the needle plate must be racked every course or half round, but with this difference: When making the diagonal stitch the needle plate is racked over one needle and back again, while to rack both sides of the fabric the needle plate is racked over two needles. This does not mean that the knitter should rack over two needles at once, for this should never be done, but rack over one needle, let us say to the right, then put on one course and rack over the second needle to the right, put on one course and rack one needle to the left, put on one course and rack the second needle to the left. Or in other words, rack alternately two needles to the right and left and put on one course or half round each time the needle plate is racked one needle.

There is one other point that should be remembered in making this collar and that is the manner of starting the diagonal stitch in the proper direction after finishing in the middle portion. Each time this part is finished the diagonal stitch should go in the opposite way from the previous time, therefore when the one needle half round rack starts to make this stitch the first rack should be made with the carriage on the opposite side of the machine from which the previous one was started.

Opportunity for Varying Designs

Fig. 37 is an interesting example of what may be done with the two-needle rack. Designs of this character require the removal or pulling down out of operation of every other needle, therefore a machine of any given cut, or needles per inch, would be in reality only half as fine as cut and would necessitate the use of a heavier or larger yarn.

Fig. 37.
Basket Weave Design Made With the Rack.

To make the fabric shown in Fig. 37 pull down or remove every other needle in the front plate. Then pull down or remove every other needle in the back plate for five needles, then leave two needles together and remove every other needle for five more, leave two needles together and continue as before until the full width of needles in working position are as follows: Every other needle down out of working position in the front plate, and every other one down in groups of five with two needles together between these groups in the back plate.

We will find by this arrangement that when we rack the plate over one needle, every second group of five needles in the back plate will rack across a needle of the front plate, but the other groups will simply move between the needles in the front plate, therefore will make a plain half cardigan stitch only, while the other groups will make a rack stitch. If this operation were continued in this way, racking one needle only back and forth, we would get a fabric with vertical stripes of alternating plain half cardigan and rack stitch. But if we rack back and forth one needle each round for ten rounds, then rack over the second needle and rack back and forth one needle in this position, we will find that the groups of five needles that were racking in the first instance are now making the plain half cardigan stitch, and the groups that were at first making the plain are now racking.

Fig. 36.
Designs Made with Rack Stitch.

An ingenious knitter can make an almost unlimited number of designs of this character by different arrangements of his needles and a variation of the timing of his racks. One thing which should be remembered is that all racking should be done on the course that tucks or holds two stitches when racking on the half cardigan. On the full cardigan both courses are tucked, therefore it does not matter which one is racked, only the side of the fabric on which the rack shows is dependent upon which course the plate is racked.

The design shown in Fig. 36 at a is simply a zig-zag stitch with three needles taken out of the back plate at short intervals, giving these places a piping effect. The fabric at b is a plain one-needle rack with the piping made in the same manner.

CHAPTER V
The Double Lock Flat Machine—How Different Stitches are Formed

Our study of flat machines up to this point has dealt entirely with the class known as the single lock machines, or those that have but one set or pair of locks to do the knitting. There is another very popular type, commonly known as the double-lock machine, which is, it might be said, in a class by itself. This machine, as the name would indicate, has two sets or pairs of locks mounted on the same carriage, and set as closely together as they can be and work properly.

The double-lock machine has many advantages over the single-lock type, the most important being that there can be made upon it a two-faced fabric, that is, a fabric with each side faced with a different yarn, either in color, quality or both. The popular “cotton back” sweater is in this class. In making this class of fabric it is essential that the two different yarns, to show out on the two faces of the fabric, go into the fabric in alternate courses. Therefore, it is obvious that it would not be practical to make this fabric on a single lock machine, for when a course was finished the second yarn would be on the opposite end of the machine from the locks and yarn carrier, and it would be necessary to put on a full round, or two courses, in order to get back to that end to exchange yarn carriers.

The double-lock machine overcomes this difficulty by taking both yarn carriers across, one following the other, each on a pair of locks, each time the carriage moves across the machine. It is evident from this that every time the carriage is moved across the machine there are two courses put on the fabric, instead of one as with the single-lock machine.

Speed and Production

This point leads up to another advantage of the double-lock machine, that is, increased production on account of putting on two courses with each movement of the carriage across, as against one course with the single-lock machine. The production would not be twice as much, as might be supposed at first thought, for comparing two machines of the same size, the single lock could be operated at a greater speed than the double lock, but not approaching twice the speed. The reason for this is that the locks of the double-lock machine must, of course, be practically twice the length of the locks of the single-lock machine, and inasmuch as the locks must move far enough at each end to be clear of or past the needles, it is quite obvious that the double-lock carriage must have a longer travel. Therefore, it takes longer to complete one round of the carriage than the single-lock machine, to maintain the same needle speed.

This brings us to another point that may as well be disposed of here, and that is the speed of latch needle machines. Generally speaking, the maximum speed of a latch needle machine, either flat or circular, is governed by the needle speed; that is, the speed at which the cams raise and lower the needles, and the thread velocity, which is of course dependent on the needle speed.

Speed of Flat Machines

As a general rule, where the machine is in good condition and the yarn of fairly good quality, a flat machine with a crank drive should be operated at from 100 to 125 lineal feet per minute, and a chain drive may be operated at from 125 to 150 lineal feet per minute. The reason for this difference between the chain drive and the crank drive is that with the crank drive the movement of the carriage across the machine is not uniform throughout, its movement being faster in the center than at either end, therefore we must regulate our speed so it will not be too high at this point. On the other hand, the chain drive carries uniformly throughout the movement of the carriage except for two or three inches at the ends.

To explain what is meant by lineal feet per minute, let us assume that we have a 20-inch machine, that is, there are 20 inches of needles. In this case the carriage would have to travel about 30 inches on account of the locks having to clear the needles at both ends, therefore a movement of the carriage across and back, or one complete round, would cover twice 30 inches or 60 inches, or 5 feet. Now if we intend to run this machine at a speed of 120 lineal feet per minute, we would divide 120 feet by 5 feet, which would give us 24 rounds per minute, the speed the machine should run.

I do not wish to be understood as giving this as a hard and fast rule for the speed of machines, for there are many factors which enter into the operation of knitting machinery which might make it desirable to vary this speed. Some of these factors are the condition of the machine, the experience of the operator, the character of the yarn, the class of fabric, and sometimes the skill of the mechanic in charge of the machines.

Going back to the two-faced fabric, this must be made on one of the two cardigans. The “cotton backs” are usually made on the half cardigan, while the fabrics with two different colored faces are made on the full cardigan as a rule.

Fig. 40.
Dubied System of Double Locks.

Fig. 40 shows a type of double lock used in a Dubied machine made in Switzerland. The reader will understand from what has gone before that this illustration shows the locks turned upside down, that is, if they were in operation on a machine they would be turned over with the cams close to the needle plates. It will be noted that the fundamentals are the same as in the Lamb system previously described, but the method used to change from the plain rib to the full or half cardigan, or vice versa, is different.

In making a plain rib fabric the needle butts would follow the camway as in the Lamb system, that is, if the carriage were being moved from left to right the needle butts would follow the course up with cams 1a, 1b and 1c below, and 1, 1s, 8s and 8 above. This explanation would of course apply to all four sets of cams. The cams 1b, 2b, 3b and 4b have studs which project through the cam plate and there are means provided to draw any one or all of these cams back through the cam plate by these studs far enough so that the faces of the cams are flush with the cam plate, and entirely out of operation.

The cams 1c, 2c, 3c and 4c are made to swing on the pivots, aa, and are held down on cams, 1a to 4a, in the position shown, by springs. It should be particularly noticed that the cams just mentioned, 1b to 4b, and 1c to 4c, are exactly alike in the four sets of locks, but their positions are reversed in the sets opposite. They are placed in this way in order to facilitate the making of the cardigan stitches.

Making Half Cardigan Stitch

In the study of what follows it should be remembered that the illustration at Fig. 40 shows the locks bottom up, therefore in actual operation the lower set in the illustrations would be the back ones, and the upper set the front ones.

In making the half cardigan stitch it is customary to have the tuck or holdover stitch on the back plate; on the double-lock machine, where we have two feeds, it is on the back feed, and the plain course is on the locks that are leading. Therefore, to make a half cardigan stitch with these locks we would simply raise cams 2b and 3b up through the cam plate out of working position.

Now remembering that the cams 2c and 3c are free to swing up and down on the pivots, aa, and are held down in their present position by a small spring, it should be readily understood that in moving the carriage from, let us say, left to right, the butts of the needles would follow up the right side of cam 2a, and on up over 2c, therefore would knit out on this course. But when these butts came to the second set of locks they would move up the right side of cam 3a until they came to the upper right hand corner of this cam, and at this point, on account of cam 3b being up out of operation, they would move across and raise up cam 3c and pass under it. Cam 3a not being high enough to raise the needles to the point where the stitch would drop off the latches, obviously the needles must hold the two stitches on this side of these locks.

On the return of the carriage from right to left the operation of the needles would be reversed, that is, they would pass up over cam 3c and knit out on the locks in the lead and pass under cam 2c.

To sum up the whole operation in a few words, to make a half cardigan stitch we must alternate with the plain rib course and a course that tucks or holds the previous stitch, as well as the new one on one side. This half cardigan is the stitch used in making what is known as the “cotton back” sweater and other such fabrics.

By having one yarn carrier threaded with cotton and one threaded with wool or worsted, as the case may be, and changing these carriers at the end of every course so as to keep the cotton always knitting at the cams that are leading or making the plain stitch, the cotton alone will draw through on the back of the fabric while the worsted or wool will practically cover the face stitch of the cotton. This exchange of the yarn carriers at the end of each course is done automatically by the machine, therefore requires no attention by the operator.

Full Cardigan Stitch

To make the full cardigan stitch the procedure would be practically the same as explained on the single-lock machine, as both pairs of these locks would be tucking or holding on one side (opposite sides) on one course, and each would reverse itself on the return course. The cams 1b, 2b, 3b and 4b would be lifted up out of operation. When this is done the cams 1c, 2c, 3c and 4c would operate automatically to give us this result. This is the stitch used as a rule to make the two-faced fabrics, that is, to make the two sides of different colors.

In connection with this explanation the question may arise as to why the half cardigan stitch is used in making a fabric with one side cotton and the other side wool or worsted, and the full cardigan stitch used when making the two sides of different colors. The answer to this is that the half cardigan stitch makes the better fabric of the two for most purposes on account of the face stitch being full and round, thereby filling up the space between the wales. Inasmuch as the cotton stitch on the face is very short, and the wool or worsted quite long, and both are the same color, the cotton will show but very little, if any. On the other hand, if two widely divergent colors were used, the face would not show a solid color but would have more of a salt and pepper effect.

To go back to Fig. 40 it will be noted, as stated before, that while the principle of these locks is the same as the Lamb system previously explained, the construction is somewhat different. The stitch cams, 1, 8, 7, 6, 3 and 4 are shaped along the lines of a parallelogram, while all the stitch cams in the Lamb system were triangular. Cams 3 and 4 are made this shape to allow placing the triangular cam, 1d, in position to act as a guard cam to prevent the butts of the needles from flying up between after dropping off the ends of the stitch cams 3 and 4. Yet it allows these stitch cams to be moved freely up and down through the angular slot in the cam plate, which shows at the ends, in order to make the stitch longer or shorter as the need may be. Cams 1 and 6 are made this shape to allow placing back of them the triangular cams 9 and 10, but these are for another purpose.

It sometimes happens that it is desirable to make a fabric with the stitch so short that it would not cast the old stitch off over the end of the needles with all the cams set high enough to make this short stitch. When this is the case, cams 1 and 6 only would be moved up to a point where they would not draw the new stitch through the previous one on their respective courses, therefore would not use any yarn, while the opposite cams 2 and 5 would draw a full stitch.

After the needles had passed these cams (2 and 5) the cams 9 and 10 on their respective courses, having been set down to the proper position, would draw the needles in this plate down to the point where the old stitch would cast off, thereby completing that stitch without undue strain on the yarn on account of the needles on the opposite side being free to raise far enough to prevent it. Cam 11 acts as a guard cam for 7 and 8 and also is used on a short stitch to cast off for these two cams, the same as 9 and 10 cast off for 1 and 6.

Fig. 41.
Plating Yarn Carrier.

Yarn Carrier for Plating

Fig. 41 shows a yarn carrier used for plating on a flat machine. By plating is meant where two threads of different quality, say worsted and cotton, are used in the same course, and the worsted is laid in the fabric so as to show on the outside and the cotton is in the middle. To do this the worsted yarn, d, d, would pass through the center hole, b, and the yarn c, c, passing through the crescent-shaped hole, a, would be the cotton. It will be noted that the angular draw of the yarn from the bottom of the guide into the needles will always keep the yarns in the positions shown. When the end of the course is reached, and the movement of the carriage is reversed, the cotton yarn c, c, will swing around to the opposite end of the crescent-shaped hole, a, and in this way will always be in the same relative position to the worsted yarn d.

CHAPTER VI
Fashioned Goods

Fashioned goods are garments which, while being knit on the machine, are made the proper shape to fit the wearer.

If the garment to be fashioned is a sweater, the fashioning or shaping to be done is the sleeve, the neck opening, the collar, and at times in the better class of sweaters, the arm holes are narrowed back from the lower part to the shoulder in order to shorten the shoulder length, thereby insuring a better fit. When making underwear not only the sleeves have to be shaped but the legs of the drawers are shaped also. In the ladies’ high class fashioned underwear and tights the bust and hips are shaped. Much of this class of work, with the exception of hosiery, is made on the hand machines and involves much more labor, time and skill, than where the work is knit in a straight piece and made the proper shape by other means after being taken off the machine.

There are three advantages in fashioning the garments in the knitting operation. First, there is a saving in material as there is no material cut off in order to get the shape. This saving, however, would pay but a small part of the extra labor involved. Second, fashioned goods make up into better looking and as a rule better fitting garments than cut goods. Third, on account of the edges being selvage, not cut and raw, it is possible to join two edges so the place of joining will look much like a wale in the fabric, thereby avoiding the unsightly seams of the cut garment.

In fashioning of this character it is customary to set the machine up and start at the widest part of the garment, if possible, so that in getting the required shape the fabric will be made narrower instead of wider, though this is not essential, as it is practical to widen the fabric as well as to make it narrower.

The Narrowing Comb

Fig. 42.
Narrowing Comb or Decker
and Work Hook.

The letter a in Fig. 42 shows the instrument used for narrowing by hand. It is called a decker or narrowing comb. It will be noted that it consists of long slim points clamped in a handle, with an eye in the free end of each point. There may be any desired number of points clamped in the handle, the limit being only the width of the clamp, but the usual number for this work is from three to five. These points must be set at a distance from one another to correspond to the cut of the machine on which they are to be used; that is, if the needle plates are cut for six needles to one inch the spacing of the decker points must be the same. I might add that these deckers are sometimes made by stamping the whole decker, points and all, out of sheet steel, and sometimes by soldering the round points on to a handle.

Fig. 43.
Set Up Comb.

Perhaps the best way to explain the use of this decker is to give directions for making a sleeve. First we must have a set up comb, shown in Fig. 43, the use of which will be understood as we proceed. Then we must have weights with which to hold the work down on the needles, for, as stated before, in the operation of knitting there must always be means provided to pull the fabric onto and away from the needles. These weights are simply a stand made from a short iron rod about three-sixteenths inch in diameter and about seven to eight inches long, with a hook turned on one end, a small round iron disc attached to the other, and a number of round iron weights slotted to the center to allow the operator to slip them on or off the stand to secure the desired pull. In fact, the stand and weights are a duplicate of the stand and weights we see hanging on the end of the beam of a common platform scale.

To make the sleeve we would put up the required number of needles for the full width of the sleeve, let us say 100, and set the locks for half cardigan stitch. We would then draw the yarn through the yarn guide and down through the throat between the needle plates. Then we would move the carriage across the machine to the opposite side, and we should find that each needle had caught the yarn and drawn it back and forth across the throat. We would now take our set up comb, illustrated in Fig. 43, and push the points which project at the top up through the throat, from underneath, until the upper ends are above the yarn, which has been drawn back and forth across the throat, after which we push the wire, shown just above the comb, through the eyes in the end of the points, as indicated by the dotted line. Now we can pull the comb down on to the yarn and the wire will rest on it. We then hang a weight in the center hole at the bottom and are ready to proceed with the knitting.

Operation of Narrowing

The first thing we would do after hanging on our weights would be to rack over one needle to give that end of the sleeve a smooth selvage finish. We would now put on five rounds, after which we would begin to narrow. Stopping the carriage on the left side of the machine, we would take the decker and place the hooks of the three end needles, in the back plate on the right, in the eyes of the three points of the decker, draw the needles up until the stitch dropped down below the latch, then push them down to their first position. We find that the stitches have dropped off over the end and free of the needle on to our decker. We now carry the stitches in toward the center one needle, hook on to these three needles and pull them up through the stitches, being careful not to pull them up so far that the stitches will drop down below the latches. After this has been done we have the end needle without a stitch and therefore pull it down where it is out of operation.

We go through this same performance on the front needle plate, right side, then move the carriage over to the right and do the same with the left side. It is obvious that when we have finished we shall have put four needles out of operation, or what would count as two in the width of the garment. We would repeat this after every five rounds for twenty-five rounds, so at this point our sleeve would be ten needles narrower than when we started, although we would have put out of operation twenty needles in narrowing. It is customary to reckon only with the needles of one plate, as the wales of one side only are counted in the width of a rib fabric.

Shaping a garment in this manner leaves a selvage edge for joining, consequently when the garment is finished the seams, when properly put together, are small with an appearance much like a wale in the fabric. They also have the same stretch or elasticity as the fabric.

Fig. 44.
Outline of Fashioned Sleeve.

Fig. 44 is an outline of approximately the shape the sleeve should be when finished and shows the direction of the wales and the places where the ones doubled up terminate. This is shown on one side and edge only, although the other side and edge would be the same.

It is understood, of course, that the sleeve is shown opened up flat, and in being put on a garment would be doubled over and the edges joined on the underside of the arm. To reduce the size from the forearm to the wrist or cuff it is usual, in sweaters, to depend on the change to the plain rib stitch, for as explained previously the plain rib will come out much narrower than the half or full cardigan with the same number of needles and the same yarn. In underwear and theatrical tights it is customary to fashion down the forearm to the cuff.

Many knitters consider it good practice to reverse this formula in fashioning; that is, to start at the cuff in order to have the rack stitch on the end of the cuff to save the hand finishing. In this event the narrowing operation as described would be reversed, or a widening operation.

This is done by pulling up the three end needles and pushing them down until the stitches drop off on to the decker, as in narrowing, but instead of setting these stitches in towards the center we would push up another needle and set them out one. This would leave the fourth needle without a stitch, so we would pick up the previous stitch, which had been cast off of what is now the fifth needle and raise it up and hook it over the fourth. This is done with one point of the decker. After having done this on both plates and on both sides of the sleeve, while we would have pushed four needles up into operation, we would have widened only two.

Where it is not considered an advantage to have the widening stitches show, this operation may be expedited quite a little by using the hook shown at b in Fig. 42, which is a convenient size to handle, about one-eighth inch in diameter by 6 inches long. By this method we push up into operation the new needle and simply catch with the hook the previous stitch cast off of the end needle and hook it on to the new needle on the four corners as before described. It is best to do this one needle at a time with a course between, taking the one on the plate that contains the inside needle.

CHAPTER VII
Automatic Flat Latch Needle Machines—Single Lock

The term “automatic” as applied to this class of machine means that all the changes are made automatically, as from plain stitch to half cardigan or full cardigan, or vice versa, changing colors to make striped work, making the rack stitch and back to plain rib, changing from rib to tubular or jersey stitch, making the French rack, etc. All these changes may be made at any predetermined place in the work without any attention from the operator. The machines discussed up to this point may be presumed to have been hand machines, that is, operated by manual power. Therefore, all changes of the stitch, yarn, racking, etc., may be done to advantage at the proper time and place by the operator as the machine requires his whole attention anyway.

A prerequisite of an automatic machine is the operating of the machine by other than manual power, therefore automatic machines are first of all what are called power machines. This does not imply by any means that all power machines are automatic, but rather that all automatic machines are power machines.