LANDS OF THE
SLAVE AND THE FREE:

OR,
Cuba, the United States, and Canada.

BY

CAPTAIN THE HON. HENRY A. MURRAY, R.N.

Entrance to a Coffee Planter's Residence.

1857.

"He gave us only over beast, fish, fowl,

Dominion absolute; that right we hold

By his donation; but man over man

He made not lord."

MILTON.

"Gone, gone—sold and gone,

To the rice-swamp, dank and lone;

There no mother's eye is near them,

There no mother's ear can hear them;

Never, when the torturing lash

Seams their backs with many a gash,

Shall a mother's kindness bless them,

Or a mother's arms caress them."

WHITTIER.

"LA CURIOSIDAD NUNCA SE ENFADA DE SABER."[[A]]

ANTONIO PEREZ

"Oh, give me liberty!

For were even Paradise my prison,

Still I would long to leap the crystal walls."

DRYDEN.

"A happy bit hame this arrld[*] warld wad be,

If men, whan they're here, would make shift to agree,

And ilk said to his neebor in cottage an' hall,

'Come, gie me your hand, we are brethren all.'"

[Transcribers note *: illegible]

ROBERT NICOL.

TO NIF, NASUS, AND CO.,

THESE VOLUMES

Are Dedicated

AS A TOKEN OF THE SINCERE AND AFFECTIONATE REGARD

OF THEIR OBEDIENT SERVANT,

HENRY A. MURRAY.

LONDON, JUNE 1ST, 1855.


SECOND AND CHEAP EDITION.


The encouragement of friends, and the opinions expressed by a large majority of those publications that considered the former edition worthy of notice, have induced me to cut out many passages which might possibly not interest the general reader, in order that I might send it forth to the public in a more cheap and popular form.

Writing upon such a subject as the United States, her constitution, and her institutions, there was necessarily some danger of a taint of political partisanship. I trust, however, I may he considered to have redeemed the pledge I made of writing "free from political bias," when I have found favour in the pages of two publications so opposite in their politics as the Westminster Review and the Press.

One weekly paper with pretensions to literary criticism (the Athenaeum, September 15, 1855) did me the honour of making me the object of its unmeasured censure; but, as I was forewarned that my success would interfere with the prospects of one of its contributors, I was prepared for its animadversions, though most certainly I did not anticipate the good fortune of a zeal so totally void of discretion, that the animus which guided the critic's pen should be too transparent to impose upon even a child.

Conceive a would-be critic, after various spasmodic efforts at severity, selecting from among many comprehensive measures suggested by me for the future emancipation, and for the present benefit, of the slave, the proposition of "a proper instrument for flogging, to be established by law," and that with the evident intention of throwing ridicule on the idea. If the critic were occasionally subject to the discipline of the various instruments used for the punishment of the negro, his instinct would soon teach him that which appears to be at present beyond the grasp of his intellect, viz., the difference between a cow-hide and a dog-whip; and if he knew anything of his own country, he could scarcely be ignorant that the instruments used for corporal punishment in army, navy, and prisons, are established by law or by a custom, as strong as law. But enough of this Athenian Reviewer, I offer for his reflection the old story, "Let her alone, poor thing; it amuses her, and does me no harm." The next time he tries to sling a stone, I hope he will not again crack his own skull in the clumsy endeavour.

"Ill nature blended-with cold blood

Will make a critic sound and good.

This useful lesson hence we learn,

Bad wine to good sound vinegar will turn."

OLD PAMPHLET.

I now launch my barque upon a wider ocean than before. The public must decide whether her sails shall flap listlessly against the masts, or swell before a stiff and prosperous breeze.

H.A.M.


CONTENTS.

[A CHAPTER GRATIS AND EXPLANATORY]

[CHAPTER I.]

Make Ready—Fire—Departure.

FROM LONDON TO NEW YORK.

Preparations

LIVERPOOL—Embarkation Scenes

Scenes on Board

CAPE RACE

Pilot

NEW YORK

[CHAPTER II.]

Land of Stars and Stripes.

AT NEW YORK.

The First View

Custom House

Ferry Boat

First Impressions

Hospitality

American Hotels

Bar and Barbers

Bridal Chamber

Paddy Waiter

Feeding System

Streets and Buildings

Portrait Hatter

Advertisements

Loafing in Broadway

[CHAPTER III.]

Sights and Amusements.

AT NEW YORK.

Yacht Club and Dinner.

Railway Society to LONG ISLAND

Race Stand

Trotting Match

Metallic Coffin

American Horse

Hack Cabs and Drivers

Omnibuses

City Railway Cars

Travelling Railway Cars

Tickets for Luggage

Locomotive

Suggestions for Railway Companies

[CHAPTER IV.]

A Day on the North River.

FROM NEW YORK TO GENESEO.

Embark in Steamer on Hudson

Passengers and Anecdotes

Scenery of River

ALBANY—Disembark

A Hint for Travellers

Population and Prosperity

Railway through Town

Professor of Soap

CANANDAIGUA—Hospitality.

Early Education

Opposite System

Drive across Country—Snake Fences and Scenery

Churches—a Hint for the Highlands

Cheap Bait—GENESEO

[CHAPTER V.]

Geneseo.

AT GENESEO

Absence of Animal Life—Early Rising

View from the Terrace—Work of the Pioneer

Farm and System, Wages, &c.

A Drive—Family Scene

LAKE CANESUS

Plank road. Toll gates, &c.

Scotch Pikeman

[CHAPTER VI.]

Stirring Scenes and Strange Sights.

FROM GENESEO TO NEW YORK.

A Drive to BATAVIA—Railway Warning

Buffalo Railway Station and Yankee Cabby

Prosperity and Contrast

NIAGARA

ROCHESTER

A Live Bloomer

Advantage proved by Contrast

Reflections on Old Fashions

Pleasant Night

[CHAPTER VII.]

Construction and Destruction.

AT NEW YORK.

Cutter Yacht, "Black Maria"

Dinner on Board

Toddy and Chowder

Prosperity—Croton Aqueduct

Destruction of Dogs

Drive on the Bloomingdale Road

A Storm

[CHAPTER VIII.]

South and West.

FROM NEW YORK TO LOUISVILLE.

Ticket Station

PHILADELPHIA—Convenience

Luggage left behind

BALTIMORE—MAXWELL POINT

Canvas-back Ducks

Tolling for Ducks

Start by Rail—A Fix

HARRISBURGH—The Whittling Colonel

Start again. Pleasant Company

Inclined Planes—Canal Boat

Coaching Comfort

PITTSBURG

Railing through Forest, and Reflections

CLEVELAND—Mud-walk

To Sleep or not to Sleep

CINCINNATI—Statistics and Education

Porkopolis and Pigs

A bloody Scene

Ships at Marietta

OHIO—Levee and Literature

Embark on Steamer—Black Stewardess

Ibrahim Pacha and Fat

[CHAPTER IX.]

Scenes Ashore and Afloat.

FROM LOUISVILLE TO ST. LOUIS.

Fabrication of the Republican Bonbon

Wood Machinery

A Nine-inside Coach

Human Polecat

Breakfast and Cigar

versus

Foetor

Ferry Crossing—Travelling Beasts

Old Bell's and Old Bell

Cross Country Drive—Scenery

The Mammoth Cave

Old Bell and the Mail

Pleasant Companions

Rural Lavatory

Fat Boy and Circus Intelligence

LOUISVILLE and Advice

Ohio—A Bet at the Bar

A Dinner Scene and a Lady

Dessert and Toothpicks

Evening Recreation

CAIRO—Its Prospects

ST. LOUIS—Its Prosperity

[CHAPTER X.]

River Scenes.

FROM ST. LOUIS TO NEW ORLEANS.

MISSISSIPPI—Good-natured Weakness

Mississippi

v

. Missouri

Stale Anecdote revived

Marriage Certificate

Folly—Description of Steamer

Inspection Farce described

Corporal Punishment—Illustration

Captain of Mizen Top

v

. White Nigger

Scenery

Mississippi—Good night

Screecher & Burster—A Race

Captain leaves us

Bed—Alarm—Wreck

Brutal Heartlessness

River Wreckers

NEW ORLEANS

Wrecks, Causes and Remedies

Anecdotes of Blood

[CHAPTER XI.]

New Orleans.

FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA.

Situation and Bustle

Cotton, Tobacco and Sugar

Steamers, and Wages

Streets, Hotels, &c

A Friend in Need. Neighbourhood, Shell-road

Society and Remarks

Rough-and-Tumble—Lola Montez

A Presbyterian Church

The Gold Man

Autocracy of the Police

Law—Boys and Processions

Duel Penalties—Stafford House Address

Clubs

Spanish Consul and Passport

Parting Cadeau

Pilot Dodge

Purser Smith

Sneezing Dangerous—Selecting a Companion

HAVANA

[CHAPTER XII.]

The Queen of the Antilles.

AT CUBA.

Volante

Lively Funeral

A Light to a Cigar

Evening Amusement

Trip to MATANZAS—El Casero

Slave Plantation

Sugar Making

Luxuriant Vegetation

Punic Faith and Cuban Cruelty

H.M.S. "Vestal"

Bribery

Admiralty Wisdom

Cigars and Manufactory

Population—Chinese

Laws of Domicile—Police and Slavery

Increase of Slaves and Produce

Tobacco, Games, and Lotteries

Cuban Jokes

Sketch of Governors

The Future of Cuba?

[CHAPTER XIII.]

Change of Dynasty.

FROM CUBA TO BALTIMORE.

KEY POINT

Vulgar Hebrew

CHARLESTON, WASHINGTON

Night and Morning

Congress and Inauguration

General Jackson and Changes

Cabmen and City

Shopman and Drinking

Levees and Buildings

BALTIMORE and Terrapin

The Drama

Progress—Fire Companies

[CHAPTER XIV.]

Philadelphia and Richmond.

FROM BALTIMORE TO RICHMOND.

PHILADELPHIA and Hospitality.

Streets—Mint

Gerard College

High School

A Jail and a Cure for the Turbulent

Lunatic Asylum

NEW YORK and Embark

A Wild Paddy

CHARLESTON Arrival

Hotel and Hospitality

Climate and Buildings

Commercial Prosperity