Transcriber’s Note:

New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.

Hunting a Home in Brazil.
THE
AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES
AND OTHER
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.
ALSO,
THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
OF THE INHABITANTS.

By J. McF. GASTON, M. D., COLUMBIA, S. C.

Late Surgeon Confederate Army.

PHILADELPHIA:

KING & BAIRD, PRINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET.

1867.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by

J. McF. GASTON, M. D.,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

INTRODUCTION.

The present publication is the result of observations made during an extended tour in the central portion of Brazil.

The most ample facilities for exploring the territory were afforded by the authorities of the empire, and more especially by that high-toned gentleman and liberal-minded statesman, Conselheiro Dom Antonio Francisco de Paula e Sousa, to whose personal and official support is due whatever of value may attach to this collection of facts.

This daily record was made for the information of a number of personal friends, but the conviction that many other persons are also interested in a region of such vast resources, induces the author to submit it to the public, as a faithful description of the soil, productive climate, people and government, of the country.

All the requisites of a desirable home have been found in Brazil; and a consideration of the data here presented may enable those concerned to determine upon the propriety of transferring their residence to that favored land.

HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL.

Having made a pleasant voyage from New York, it was announced early on the morning of Tuesday, September 12th, 1865, that our vessel had passed Cape Frio, and that we were approaching the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The rugged shore upon our right hand presented rather a dreary aspect, relieved now and then by a few scrubby trees, or the green foliage of vines springing from the crevices of the rocks. This mountainous rock-bound coast is very irregular in its outline; and the ocean, dashing against its base, throws the white foam of the waves high upon its sloping edge, then to break into spray, and fall back into roaring waters.

The guardians of the entrance consist of two conical islands of solid rock, known as Pai (father) and Mai, (mother.) Farther south there is another small island of rock, upon which stands a light-house to guide vessels approaching at night.

The indications for the mariner are so distinct, and the water so deep and free from obstructions at all points, that pilots are not required.

The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the world.

The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to 70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°, but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now, in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty cliffs.

Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea, we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city immediately upon the margin of the water.

A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right, projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our flag being English,[^[1]] the language corresponded to the supposed nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be asked at this place.

We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the ramparts.

In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which flank these works on each side.

Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going ashore.

This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married, when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us, and shook hands with all upon leaving.

The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on shore.

We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.

Before leaving the bark, it should be mentioned that several boats came along side with cards from the respective ship chandlers, which they were very intent upon delivering to the captain, with an invitation to take a seat in the boat for a row to the city. One of these was from the firm of Baldwin & Co., with which he expected to deal, and at which we stopped a short time after going ashore. Mr. Baldwin had left the city for a visit to Baltimore, and we were told that his impression was, that an honest man ought not to continue in this branch of business. The house however seems to be well supplied with the various articles usually needed aboard of ships, and it is likely that persons needing to purchase any thing in this line may do so on as favorable terms here as elsewhere in the city of Rio.

From this place, which is very near the wharf, we proceeded with the captain to the house of Phipps Brothers & Co., on Rua Pescadores, who are the consignees of his cargo. The young men in the office spoke English, and were very accommodating in giving us information in regard to various matters outside of their business. We learned that Colonel Clarey from the city of Baltimore had arrived in this city a few days previous, and it was supposed that he was still here. But we were subsequently informed that he had left the city, and proceeded by way of Santos to the city of São Paulo.

In passing through this business part of the city, several negro men were seen with little else than a cloth around their loins, carrying immense burdens; while negro women were seated upon the side-walks with the body of a chemise as the only covering above their waists. These women were engaged in traffic of various kinds, and seemed to be as entirely unconscious of any undue exposure as we would suppose Eve was, originally, in the garden of Eden.

The captain had some Brazilian money, and made a very satisfactory trade with one of these women, getting three oranges for a dump, which is equal to two cents, and bought enough to give us all a good bait of this delicious fruit. I had a United States twenty-five cent coin, for which she was only willing to allow me eight dumps or sixteen cents, but I declined her proposition, and afterwards got ten dumps or twenty cents for my quarter of a dollar,[^[2]] and invested a portion of it forthwith in oranges. It is one of my weak points to have an inordinate fondness for oranges, and this fruit being unusually fine in Rio, and very cheap, I expect to consume a large number daily. Bananas are also very abundant and very cheap; but it is not the season for pine-apples, and the few here are held at high prices, even as much as fifty cents each.

I was struck with the large strings of onions that were seen hanging in almost every part of the market, and was told that they are shipped to the port from Portugal in immense numbers, though the soil and climate of Brazil is said to be well adapted to their production. Those things which grow here in great abundance, without work, satisfy the wants of the lower class of people, and they do not care to devote their energies to tilling the soil.

The streets of Rio de Janeiro, in the business portion of the city, through which we passed, are for the most part very narrow, and having a depression in the middle to serve as a drain. It is difficult for two carts or other vehicles to pass each other, and on one occasion we had to enter the door of a store to avoid contact with the wheels, when two carts were passing in one of these narrow defiles leading to the store of Phipps Brothers & Co. In going to this place, however, we passed through Rua da Direita, which is at this portion perhaps the broadest street in the city, and upon this is located the business palace and the church of the Emperor, Dom Pedro II.

In front of these buildings is an open plaza, with a fountain of water on the opposite side, at which persons may be seen almost constantly filling their vessels with the pure and limpid fluid, that is conveyed by an aqueduct from the hills outside of the city.

This plaza is constantly occupied with carriages and hacks for hire, and there are also quite a number of two-wheeled tilburys, having accommodation for but one person beside the driver. Mules are generally driven in these vehicles, two to the former, and one to the latter, and while they are used almost exclusively in all public equipages, it is not uncommon to see a fine pair of mules likewise in an elegant private carriage.

The mules here present a fine appearance, being of large size and having good action, with apparently more life and spirit than the mules with us in the United States. This however is accounted for by the comparatively light service which is done by them, which came under my observation during this afternoon.

I observed that horses are also used in private equipages and for the saddle, but they did not strike me as being of superior quality. There was a number of fancy-colored horses of rather small size, in single harness, and they seemed to be compact, hardy animals, with good action, and fine spirit. They belong doubtless to the stock of wild horses captured in the plains of Buenos Ayres or in the lower provinces of Brazil, yet I had no opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to their origin.

Among the many vehicles seen in the streets of Rio de Janeiro I observed nothing like the buggy which is in common use in the United States; and the two-wheeled, one horse tilbury is so much better adapted to narrow streets and short turns that it is not likely that it will find a rival soon in the four-wheeled buggy of modern invention.

Omnibuses or “diligencia” are seen moving to and fro with great activity, and this progressive feature of a business people is evidently in successful operation, with the usual advantages accruing to a large number of customers, over that of carriages and tilburys, which are only hired by the few for transportation to a special point. The large number of negroes that are seen upon the streets, both male and female, with the marks of tattooing upon their cheeks, and in the persons of the females with fancy figures on their arms, indicates that the African slave-trade has been carried on with this country very actively at a comparatively recent period. Most of them appear strong and active, while many are not exceeding twenty-five years of age. The men were employed in such business as we might expect slaves to do, but most of the women were selling fruit or trafficking in other little dainties, as if they might be free.

I learn that it is a common thing here for a number of slaves to hire their time, and form a combination together to work out their freedom. It is decided by lot who is first made free, and the order in which the others are found, and yet all are bound to remain together and contribute all that is received into the common treasury, until the last is liberated.[^[3]] This is among the men, and I don’t know that any such arrangement has been adopted by the women.

Upon returning to our boat, we had a view of the line of ferry boats, which has been introduced here, upon the same plan as that adopted at New York and elsewhere in the United States. A gentleman from North Carolina named Rainey organized a company here some years ago, and has brought out two double-enders from New York for this service, which run from the city proper across to Nitherohi and other points. Their trips are made with great regularity every half hour, accommodating a large number of people.

Wednesday, September 13, 1865.

After returning from the city last night, my overcoat was found comfortable, and a blanket was used for covering during the night. The temperature this morning is very pleasant upon the water, it being 72° by Fahrenheit’s thermometer.

Having learned from Phipps & Co. that a vessel was expected to leave to-morrow for Baltimore, I made an addition to a letter written on yesterday to my wife, and putting a United States postage stamp upon it, I gave it to these gentlemen to be forwarded by the captain of the vessel.

Upon inquiry for letters at the post-office this morning, I was handed a long list of written names with the simple announcement “English” by the clerk. This implied that these persons had letters in the office, which had come through English mail, but most of the names were either Portuguese or Spanish, and very few really English. My own not being on the list, it was inferred that no letter had arrived for me. As I had left home upon the 26th of June, and gone by way of New Orleans to New York, occupying an entire month before leaving the latter port, there had evidently been sufficient time for any communication that might have been sent direct, to reach this city in advance of my arrival.

I must encounter many difficulties in my intercourse with the people of this country, from the ignorance of their language, and my objects in the line of business will be to some extent embarrassed; but there being a good many people here who speak both English and Portuguese, it may be in my power to obtain an interpreter when needed.

Having letters from Colonel A. V. Brumly to Mr. M. Tweedle and Mr. Robert Habersham, who I expected to find employed in the engineer department of the Dom Pedro II. Railroad Co., I repaired to their building, and was pleased to find that Major Ellison, chief engineer,[^[4]] and his brother, also employed in this office, were both from the United States. I learned that Mr. Tweedle had left the road and the country long since, and that Mr. Habersham was in charge of the construction section sixteen miles above the terminus of the present track. As I wish to see the country along the line of this road and on its projected route, I hope at a future day to make a visit to Mr. Habersham.

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization, and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit. Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr. Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have considerable influence among the people and the officials of this country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time, we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city, by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and purification.[^[5]] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise, to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having a bordering range of mountain cliffs.

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night; and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of business, while for the student comes meditation.

Thursday, September 14, 1865.

We expected to move into the city to-day; and being advised that my cans of tomatoes, peaches, and pickles, with some tobacco, which had been brought from New York, might not pass through the custom-house unless they were included in my baggage, I put all into my mess-chest. These articles had been procured with the expectation that they would be required on the voyage, and finding the vessel well supplied, very little had been used; yet I wished to retain them for use in exploring the country, where provisions might be scarce, and hence declined to accept the offer of the captain to buy them for the bark. Upon entering the custom-house with these things, and foreseeing the importance of having these matters understood by the officers in advance of their examination, I requested Mr. Hagins, who does business with Mr. Davis, to proceed with me to the custom-house and represent the facts. He gave them to understand that the articles were not for sale, but for my own consumption, and, after some difficulty, arranged the matter without any charge for duty or the imposition of any fine for violation of regulations.

We moved into the room in the third story above the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, which is rather contracted in proportions, but has the recommendation of being well ventilated, and having a water view from the windows.

The apparent ease with which my heavy mess-chest was carried up three flights of stairs surprised me. It was a good lift for two of us to get it from the bark to the small boat, and yet this African negro carried it upon his head from the custom-house and up the stairs without any inconvenience; for which service I was told that two dumps, or four cents, was considered a proper compensation.

It is a peculiarity of this city, that burdens are generally carried by the negroes upon their heads.[^[6]] A large and heavy piece of furniture will very often be carried upon the heads of four or six negro men, who keep the step together by chanting or by tapping a bell. They usually have upon their heads a piece of cloth rolled up after the turban style, which prevents the direct contact of the hard substance that is carried. The ordinary receptacle for a number of articles to be carried is a large, flat wicker-basket, with a concavo-convex bottom, which fits upon the head; and they move along with quite a load in these baskets, giving no assistance whatever with the hands. In some instances they are seen plaiting straw, or sewing up the material in the form of a hat, while carrying these loads; which indicates a spirit of industry that was scarcely to be expected of the negro race. I am informed that the greater portion of the negroes doing this kind of business are slaves, who hire their own time, and all is for their personal benefit.

We dined at a restaurant, and our bill of fare consisted of pork cutlet, beefsteak, potted beef, fried Irish potatoes, salad, cucumbers, and coffee, with bread of excellent quality. For dessert, we had marmalade, oranges, and bananas, making, together, a most substantial dinner. The cost for both of us was one dollar and seventy-five cents, which, being eighty-seven and a half cents each, was rather more expensive living than our pecuniary resources would warrant. I had not spent any thing, however, in getting ashore, and having done more physical labor than usual, my appetite called for something extra, and it was enjoyed.

After dining, we found that night was approaching, and the gas-lights were already emitting their brilliancy upon the streets. We walked down to the open space provided with seats in front of the Circle de Commerce, upon Rua da Direita, and seated ourselves, for the purpose of observing the manners and customs of the people. I was impressed with the genteel bearing of those who resorted to this rendezvous; and quite a large number of well-dressed gentlemen were seated here, or walking about the open pavement between the seats and the buildings, who gave a favorable indication of the physical characteristics of the better class of men. A very fine equipage, with a white driver in livery, stopped near the seat we occupied, and a gentleman and lady, with their daughter, as we supposed, alighted from it, all dressed with much neatness and even elegance. They passed through the fancy confectionery store below, and ascended to the upper story of the building, where ice-creams, &c., are served in magnificent style to visitors.

It is very seldom that a Brazilian lady is seen upon the streets of Rio during the day, which is in part to avoid the scrutiny of men, and perhaps, also, to obviate the embarrassment of seeing those same men under circumstances not very becoming for observation. The heat of the sun during the day is likewise doubtless a reason why the women remain within doors, and they find the temperature of the night air more pleasant for exercise. The number of ladies from other regions of the world, that are now residing in Rio, is beginning to make some changes in the habits of the sex; as English women or French women go out upon the street whenever business or inclination calls them to take a walk or a ride in the city. The custom here has been that of great seclusion among all classes as to their women; but the more intelligent and refined Brazilians are learning that a different course is the true policy for the promotion of the true character of woman.

I had no means of knowing whether the party referred to were natives or foreigners; but their style indicated refinement and good taste. Their carriage was of the most fashionable make, with accommodations for four persons within, and a broad front seat for driver and footman. The upper part of the body was of open cane-work, and the entrance on either side wide, so as to give a light and airy appearance to the vehicle. The livery of the driver and footman was of blue cloth, with silver lace upon the collar, and a high, slick hat of enamelled leather with a band of silver. The team in this instance, as in most of the fine turnouts of the fashionables, was a pair of fine mules; and really these slick and lively animals, being of full size and well proportioned, present here a better appearance than horses.

This promenade is one of the few places of resort for those who do not go to the theatre and opera; and though there is a hotel and an ice-cream saloon here, there is no special entertainment for the numerous visitors that come and go in the course of an evening.

So far as I have been able to learn from others, balls and parties of a public character are not frequent in this city; and indeed the whole constitution of society is opposed to this kind of promiscuous assemblage of the sexes.

There are several large establishments for theatrical performances, and also opera houses, suited to the different classes of people. The Emperor considers it a matter of sufficient interest to sustain and patronize these places of recreation, and I am informed that he frequently attends in person accompanied by his family. His object is doubtless to promote what he esteems the happiness of his people, and not from any idea that they will be thus diverted, so as to prevent their minds from being directed into mischievous channels.

The pacific character of this people, and their great proneness to adhere to an existing state of things in all the departments of life, with their general admiration for the noble traits of the Emperor, affords a guarantee for the stability of this empire, independent of its constitution and laws.

Friday, September 15, 1865.

I called this morning, with Mr. Mallory, at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, Secretary in the Naval Bureau, to whom he presented his testimonials of qualification for service in the Ordnance Department. This gentleman speaks the English language, and seems to take considerable interest in promoting his wishes. He advised him to draw up an application to the government, setting forth his former services, and what duty he desired to enter upon here, and proposed to present it with his recommendation to the Minister of State.

Upon making an inquiry as to the practicability of being employed in the Hospital Department as a surgeon, after completing my investigations in the country, he expressed a favorable opinion; and stated that it would be desirable that I should draw up a paper indicating the nature of the public service in which I had been engaged, and the position I would like to occupy here.

He proposed to take this likewise in his special charge, and to use his influence to advance my wishes. It had not been my intention to make an application for any position under the Brazilian government at this time; but since this gentleman manifests such an accommodating spirit, I may find it convenient to undertake for a time some duty connected with military hospitals, near the seat of war, and thus see something more of the country towards the south.

After closing this interview, I repaired to the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, and he accompanied me to the office of Senor Don J. C. Galvão, No. 23 Rua Dos Ciganos. This gentleman also speaks English very well, and received me with great respect.

He heard my statement of the projected move of myself and my friends to Brazil with evident interest; and exhibited to me maps of the country, with records of lands owned by the government, and also descriptions of improved farms of private parties, which were offered for sale.

The price of public lands ranges from twenty-two cents to eighty-eight cents per acre, to those making an independent purchase. To those without the means of buying land, or of supporting themselves separately, one hundred and fifty acres of land will be provided, under the regulations of the government, in one of their colonies—to be paid for at the rate of one dollar and thirty-three cents per acre, one-third at the end of two years, one-third at the end of four years, and the last third at the end of six years.

The family are to be furnished with agricultural implements free of charge, and to be allowed one dollar a day for six months for each adult, with transportation from Rio to the colony free of cost. As yet there has been no advance of funds by the government of Brazil to bring emigrants from the United States to this country; though a small proportion of the outlay for transportation of emigrants from Europe has been borne, with a view to assist those who would not otherwise have the means of getting to Brazil. There is already, in Rio, an establishment to which those without means are sent to be lodged and boarded free of expense, until they can be forwarded to a colony. In these government colonies roads are opened, houses of small size are built, and churches, schools, priests, and a director are provided; but if it is the desire of the colonists to furnish their own schools and churches, it is not here prohibited; yet, if the churches are other than those of the Roman Catholic religion, they cannot be built with a steeple or other ostensible indication of a house of worship. Mirabile dictu!

I stated to Dom Galvão that there were many people of good standing in the southern portion of the United States, who were able to provide land and the means of subsistence for themselves, and yet would find great inconvenience in affecting the transportation across the ocean, unless some systematic means of assistance could be devised by the Brazilian government. There will be also persons, doubtless, desirous of coming to Brazil, whose means are very much reduced, and yet their former associations in life would render them desirable companions to those having more resources; and if those without means could receive the assistance extended to the colonists by the government, and yet be allowed to join their friends in a settlement of their own, it would materially facilitate their location in this country.

If the Brazilian government will render the same aid to our emigrants who are without means that has been extended to her own colonists, it would find at the end of six months that all further outlay or responsibility was unnecessary; and these people would co-operate with those having resources, to build up and make useful all the industrial enterprises of the settlement.

To furnish lands at the lowest practicable rate, and construct public highways, without any duty upon importations, are at present proposed by the government of Brazil, as encouragement to emigration.

Dom Galvão proposed to represent my views upon the subject of emigration to the Minister of Agriculture, and expressed his conviction that some practicable scheme would be devised to effect our object of being associated together, under regulations that would be satisfactory to all concerned.

Mr. Davis called with me also to see Mr. Milford, Acting Consul of the United States, by whom I was courteously treated, and informed that a large body of land had been intrusted to his charge, located near the Dom Pedro II. railroad. He stated that papers were in his possession giving full particulars of its nature and resources, and that they might be seen by calling at his office, No. 28 Rua Del Alfandega.

I was then presented to Mr. James, No. 15 Rua da Direita, and had a conversation with him as to the settlement of Dr. Blue and others, near the Bay of Paranagua. He informed me that Mr. Wells, of St. Louis, had gone on a visit to that locality, and was expected to return in a few days, when all available information might be had from him. I had requested Dom Galvão to make arrangements for me to visit that region, but no further steps will be taken until I hear the report of Mr. Wells.

There are some private interests involved, which have enlisted parties as advocates of the lands in the vicinity of the Bay of Paranagua; and I doubt whether it is desirable to look at a country where those expecting to speculate in lands have already made investments with a view to sell again.

Saturday, September 16, 1865.

Learning from Mr. James that Mr. Wells had returned to the city, I accepted his offer to give me an introduction to him. He gave me the particulars of the bay, and the river extending up from it, with an account of the recent settlements near that place, conveying rather a favorable idea of the surroundings of the Bay of Paranagua; yet I found that he was not so favorably impressed as to think of making his home there.

I concluded accordingly that it would not perhaps suit as a location for me and my friends; and that the advantages of other localities would be investigated without visiting this place at present.

Having heard from several disinterested persons that the province of São Paulo combined fertility of soil and adaptation especially to the culture of coffee, with a pleasant and healthy climate, I was inclined to think very favorably of that region. Upon an examination of its outline on the map it was found that it extended sufficiently towards the north to afford all the tropical fruits, and that its southern limit would secure a mitigation of heat, without being exposed to much frost during the winter, lying between 19° 38′ and 25° 39′ south latitude.

Under these circumstances I withdrew my application for transportation to the Bay of Paranagua, and asked Dom Galvão to arrange for a visit to the province of São Paulo.

He had been down to see me, and not finding me in, had left a paper, embodying modifications of the regulations pertaining to emigrants, which are intended to carry out my views. Upon having this document, written in Portuguese, translated by Mr. Hagins, it did not seem very definite or satisfactory, and I will confer with the author in person, when we meet again on Monday at his office. Then I will get more precise information as to the points submitted in this paper, and can determine whether any practical benefit is likely to accrue from the acceptance of his propositions.

Mr. Mallory and myself were expected at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, at 11 o’clock a. m., but, failing to have the papers in readiness, we did not reach there until after 12 o’clock, when he had left, and we were fully conscious of our dereliction. As we returned, however, he hailed us from the opposite side of the street; and on speaking with him, we found that he had been to learn the cause of our failure to meet him. This made us notice the great importance of promptness and punctuality in keeping our appointments with officials. He proposed that we should call at his office on Monday at 12 o’clock, when he would go with us to see the Minister of State, and endeavor to have our applications acted upon forthwith.

Though there is no special consequence attached to the disposition that is made of mine, it is of great moment to Mr. Mallory to get a speedy and favorable response to his application.

My understanding with different parties as to matters of business, indicates that I may, in a short time, ascertain definitely something as to the lands that may be available; and learn further my future relations to this government.

Sunday, September 17, 1865.

In compliance with a previous understanding, Mr. Mallory and myself went immediately after breakfast to Captain Buhlaw’s quarters, on one of the highest hills in the city, whence he and his wife accompanied us to the museum. This visit was made to-day, as we were informed that it was open only upon Sundays.

We examined a very extensive collection in the departments of Ornithology and Herpatology, with a fair assortment of minerals, of which the specimens of native diamond engaged my special attention. There was a very interesting variety of coins of different nations, and also some specimens of paper money, among which I observed a one dollar ($1.00) greenback note, and others of smaller denomination of the United States currency. These certainly have very little claim to a place among coins, except as curiosities.

In the collection of fishes, I observed a very badly-prepared specimen of flying fish, and were it not for the great interest my friends will take in one preserved by me on the voyage across the water, it might be presented to this museum, so that the characteristics of this truly remarkable phenomenon could be appreciated.

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London, and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii[^[7]] and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is quite costly.

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part, large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental, in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city. The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house, with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race. The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.

The demonstrations witnessed to-day in Rio show an utter disregard for the solemnity of the Sabbath. A large body of volunteers in holiday uniform, with a band of thirty musicians, were encountered early this morning upon one of the principal streets. In the next place, quite a number of soldiers, with their guns, badges, and flags, were seen assembled in a most gorgeous church, for the celebration of high mass. This ceremony was conducted with great pomp by the priest, and a large number of dignitaries held lighted candles of most enormous proportions, forming a concourse around the altar, which again was lighted up by hundreds of candles, though it was in open day, with a clear bright sun shedding its rays on all who would enjoy the light which God has given.

As we went in search of the English church this evening, we found a large assemblage of persons in a public garden, drinking in groups at tables arranged for the purpose, while a band was entertaining the party with music, from a stand erected for their special accommodation.

Immediately adjoining this garden was a building, in which a circus was performing, and we could hear the applause and laughter, such as might be expected at a farce or comic exhibition.

The day seems to be regarded rather as a holiday for amusement, and yet many of the business houses are kept open during the Sabbath, and there is no law of the country requiring its observance as a day of rest from labor, or to be kept holy to the Lord.

A great many of the people attend mass in the forenoon of Sunday, and then join in any recreation that may be presented. It seems that the theatres and opera houses regard Sunday evening as specially suited to attract a large number of persons, and usually have their most attractive pieces on such occasions.

In returning to-night from preaching, a large assemblage of negroes was observed immediately upon the side of the street, and, upon entering the building, we found it was a church for the exclusive use of the black people. Here many were kneeling in front of the altar, while some service was held by one of their own color; and, at a side stand, there was another black personage, who furnished applicants with a small printed paper, upon the payment of two coppers of the value of four cents. Mr. Mallory said these were no doubt indulgences for some sin committed, and the trade seemed to be going on prosperously. There were no seats in this building, and those who did not kneel sat flat upon the floor, as I have observed to be the case in all the services, when they did not stand. The churches do not have seats, and perhaps there is no regular discourse delivered to the congregations in this country.

So far as I am able to infer any thing of the spirit manifested in their acts, I should regard the religion of the people in Rio as having very little of the holy unction, and the natural tendency of a State establishment is that of formality.

Monday, September 18, 1865.

Immediately after breakfast this morning we called upon Dr. Bosworth, who had been at our quarters on Saturday without seeing us. He desired to apprise us of an appointment; that Major Pedro Latão da Cunha would accompany us to-day at 12 o’clock to visit the Minister of State. Of this we had already been apprised by the gentleman in person, and at the hour specified we proceeded with him to the large public buildings where this minister receives audience.

Captain Buhlaw having also an application for public service, accompanied Mr. Mallory and myself, and was included with us in the kind offices of presentation to Conselheiro Saraiva, the Minister of State for the empire of Brazil. Next to the Emperor, he is the highest dignitary of the land, and in his absence at the seat of war, this official takes charge of matters that are intended for the special consideration of the Emperor. We were received by him with every mark of attention and consideration; and the interview terminated with an assurance that each of us would receive the appointments as desired.[^[8]] He said, farther, that our applications were favorably considered, not so much from any demand for our services, as that the empire of Brazil wished to extend this recognition and appreciation of our motives, in coming to this country as a place of residence.

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars, which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr. Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present. It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance; but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste. There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and, though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun, I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the “vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

Tuesday, September 19, 1865.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water, around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there permanently in various industrial occupations.

Receiving an invitation from Dr. Raney, the chief of the Ferry Company, to take a ride with him on one of the boats, we crossed the bay to the town of Nitherohi; and learned that this was entirely distinct from the city of Rio, being the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro, and having its own independent municipal regulations. San Domingos constitutes an adjunct to this, and is the seat of numerous factories of cigarettes, while it is a most attractive home for private families.

There are two landings, at which these boats stop, and the number of persons getting on and off, morning and evening, are almost equal to that of the New York and Brooklyn ferry boats. There is not, however, such a continuous passing during the day and night, though a single boat finds profitable employment until 12 o’clock at night.

The fee for ferriage during the day is six cents. This is doubled from dark until 9 o’clock, when it is again doubled until 10 o’clock, and from this until 12 o’clock the last is doubled, making the fare fifty cents. Thus persons who keep late hours, attending theatres, balls, or parties in the city, are taxed with extra fare to return to their homes, and it must have some effect towards inducing men to remain with their own families during the evenings.

It is an interesting fact that these boats, being similar to the double-enders of New York, should have been brought across the ocean from the United States by their own engines; and though they were in a gale, and got separated on the way, they suffered but little damage, and reached here in good condition for service. Besides the two that steamed out, there was a third brought upon the water, by a temporary rigging of sails. The whole was superintended by Dr. Raney in person, and indicates much energy and business capacity on his part. There is another boat, which was purchased in Rio, and has been remodelled so as to suit this special service, but it is not yet ready to go upon the line of the ferry company.

The daily receipts on this line of ferry boats are not usually less than four hundred dollars, which no doubt covers the wear and tear, with interest on the capital, and leaves a large net income. Yet the payments required for putting every thing in thorough order has prevented large dividends to stockholders.

The Corcovado mountain is the highest accessible point around the city, and having a road to its summit, the visitor finds there seats for his comfort, and enjoys a view of all the surroundings of the city. Upon the slope at the foot of this mountain is a country which is resorted to by the curious, and presents many elaborate works of art, mingled with the beauties of nature, to grace the last resting-place of man’s frail body.

One of the most conspicuous features of the populated portion of the city is the signal telegraph at the observatory, upon the elevated Morro do Castillo. Here, a flag pole with arms and cords, for the attachment of various signals, stands in bold relief above the busy throng of people; and when a vessel is seen to approach from the ocean, such flags are raised as indicate to all the initiated what is the character of the vessel, and from whence she comes, usually two or three hours before her arrival. Upon this hill is also located the military hospital, which has the reputation of being a remarkably well-regulated establishment, for the treatment of those connected with the public service.

The monastery is a very extensive structure located upon the Morro San Antonio, and, being far above the ordinary haunts of the population, affords the monks comparative exemption from any of the annoyances of their fellowmen.

Upon the Morro de São Bento is located the convent, for the accommodation of the Sisters of Charity, and here, I am informed, quite a large number of nuns are congregated, as a place of perpetual seclusion from the snares and temptations that are supposed to beset the sex in this sinful world.

Among the elevations of celebrity, either for their public occupation or as the residence of persons of distinction, are the Morro da Gloria, Morro do Senado, and the Morro do Livramento.

While Rome is known as the city of seven hills, this designation might also be most appropriately applied to Rio de Janeiro, as her hills are the greatest attractions of the place, affording a delightful variety of scenery. Leaving the heights we may descend to the plains, and note some of the public establishments of most interest.

In the central portion of the broad level plain, upon which the business population of Rio is located, the Quartel des Municipals Permanentes is found, with all the structures and conveniences for administering the affairs of the city.

The public offices of the ministers and officials of government of the empire are situated upon the western border of an open space, called the Praca de Acclamacão, or the Campo de Santa Anna. On the south side of this space is the neat and yet modest-looking Congress Hall of the deputies of the empire. On the north side, in connection with the densely populated portion of the city, stands the large museum, of which mention has already been made at a former date. The street running to the east of this campo has upon the opposite side a large number of stores, with several buildings, in which there are apartments for the public officials of the government.

In the middle of this grand plaza stands a large opera house, which is the great resort of the common people throughout the city.

This magnificent piece of ground, commonly called the campo, lies quite unimproved as yet; and the washerwomen of the vicinity congregate here to use the fountains of water with which it is supplied, and to spread out their clothes upon the green grass that covers its surface. It will ere long receive the attention of the authorities, and be laid out in walks and decorated with flowers and evergreens, and must become a very attractive resort for the pent-up population of this metropolital rendezvous of all the nations of earth. It is only recently that much interest has been manifested in ornamental public grounds, and the Botanic Gardens, with other more central spots of land, already show the taste of a progressive administration, in beautifying and adorning the rural loveliness of nature by the chaste hand of art.

The most elaborate improvement to be seen in the city of Rio is the exquisitely executed equestrian statue of Dom Pedro Primeira, which stands in the middle of the Praca da Constituicão. The first Emperor is represented in full military costume on horseback, and with the scroll of the constitution raised aloft in one hand, while the other grasps the reins of the bridle.

The pedestal has upon its four sides, respectively, four pairs of Indians, with animals and reptiles, representing the regions named upon the corresponding faces. This portion of the structure has inscribed upon it, likewise, the principal rivers of the empire, arranged with relation to the localities indicated; and thus affords a historic picture of the country, with its geographical features, brought into one interesting group.

The base is made of neatly-hewn granite, and comports admirably with the massive elegance of the whole device. There are two small reservoirs of water, with a “jet d’eau” at some distance from the statue, upon each side of the square; and the artificial vines and foliage, with colored flowers, look so true to nature, that persons are very prone to suppose they have grown in the water. The grounds are laid out with excellent taste, and enclosed by a neat iron fence, giving an air of completeness and uniqueness that is eminently becoming to the subject.

Notwithstanding this handsome testimonial to the first Emperor indicates that he had endeared himself to his people, so as to make them feel pride in honoring his memory, yet his policy was so contrary afterwards to the wishes of his subjects, that he was under the necessity of abdicating his throne, and left the country to end his days in Portugal.

His lineal descendant, the present Emperor, succeeded him, and entered upon the exercise of his high functions, having a regent to officiate in the performance of the responsible public duties of the empire at the outset, and subsequently administering all his business with the most enlightened regard for the interests of his people.

It must be a source of painful reflection to every Brazilian, in looking upon this statue, to think that the original could not be sustained by the people who had placed him in authority, and though, like Washington, he may live in the hearts of his countrymen, his grave rests not upon his own soil, as that of the great North American.

Wednesday, September 20, 1865.

A communication was received quite unexpectedly, yesterday evening, from Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, inviting me to meet him this morning, at ten o’clock, at his house, number nine, Rua da Joanna.

Taking a hack, I proceeded to his residence at the time specified, and, upon entering, quite an awkward scene ensued, as neither understood the language of the other, and there was no interpreter present. Making an attempt to converse in French did not relieve our embarrassment, as my stock of the language was too limited to understand or to make myself understood in that tongue. At length, he wrote, at my suggestion, in French, that a gentleman who spoke English would arrive shortly to act as interpreter. Understanding this, I took a seat, and remained quietly until the interpreter came. Our intercourse being now made easy, he desired to know my views and wishes in regard to the measures that might promote the emigration of my friends to Brazil. I told him that the object of visit was to look for a home for my own family, and to make an examination of the country, with a view to report the result for the information of other families, whose unfortunate situation in the South induced them to desire a change of residence, and, in like manner with myself, hoped that a desirable location might be found in this country. He expressed a great desire to encourage the class of people to whom I referred, and said that he would take the matter at once into consideration, and devise a plan for assisting those who were desirous of coming to Brazil from the Southern States.

In the mean time, he proposed to render me all the aid in his power for a thorough examination of the country; and, as I had already concluded to visit the province of São Paulo, he informed me that a ticket would be furnished me to go by the steamer to-morrow to Santos, and that he would supply me with letters to the President of the province, and to other influential persons in different parts of the country. He told me that passage would be furnished likewise to an interpreter, if one could be secured, and that he would provide in like manner for any friend I might desire to accompany me on the expedition. He further stated, that under his direction to the President of the province, all the requisite facilities would be afforded to me by him, for my exploration of the lands lying in the interior of the province, and expressed a wish that I might find there a suitable location for myself and my friends.

I learned in the course of the conversation that the minister comes from the province of São Paulo; and, therefore, perhaps he feels more interest in giving encouragement to an investigation of that region, than if my examination was directed to some other quarter. My predilection for this locality being entirely independent of any partiality on the part of the minister, I will yet gladly avail myself of the advantages which may accrue from this fact, and with the offer of assistance in making a thorough exploration, I will, for the present, suspend all further action in regard to an appointment in the Hospital Department, and devote myself to this examination of the lands and resources of this fertile province.

The gentleman who acted as interpreter is the secretary of the Minister of Agriculture, and it was understood that he would bring to-morrow morning, to my quarters, the letters and other papers with which I am to be provided for making this tour of examination.

The ticket for passage upon the steamer was given to me to-day; and all the necessary indorsements and stamps put upon my passport at the treasury and police offices. I can now proceed with my personal preparations for getting off to-morrow, and will notify Major da Cunha of my leaving, so that he may take such steps as he may think proper, in regard to the paper which was to be prepared for the other mission. No calculation can be made as to the length of time I may be engaged in the examination of these lands, and my intention is to make a full report of all my observations, as a guide to my friends and others who may be interested in the resources of this country.

The residence of Senor Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, is in the precinct of São Christovão, and near the palace of the Emperor, where his family reside. But my pressing duties did not admit of any delay to visit the royal abode, and I must reserve the privilege of paying my respects to his majesty for a future occasion. I feel, however, no special inclination to wait upon the Emperor, unless business should require me to see him, and his time and patience are doubtless sufficiently taxed here with visits of mere formality. As he is absent at the seat of war just now, all the matters of business that would have taken me to see him will probably be disposed of by his ministers, and there will be no need to see him.[^[9]]

On the way to São Christovão, I passed the grand butcher pen of the city, which monopolizes the slaughtering of the cattle for the market. It is a large establishment, with spacious grounds, and a high cast-iron fence, having a gate of huge proportions with portals of hewn stone.

There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of ooze, by which the leather is tanned.

Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.

The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the improvements on the plain below.

Thursday, September 21, 1865.

Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.

We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr. Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me on arrival at the city of São Paulo.

My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me, whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to Santos.

The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but finished in all her parts with good taste.

The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and especially the change of plates for each different article that is eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time, indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as at dinner.

The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach, or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is expected to supply himself as far as practicable.

Persons who concluded their meals, and did not care to wait for those seated on the bench upon either side of them, crept under the table, and made their way out at the opposite side, where there was no wall to be encountered.

Wine is an invariable accompaniment of dinner, and after all is concluded, it is the custom to serve coffee without milk.

The custom of this country recognizes but two meals a day—breakfast being from eight to nine o’clock A. M., and dinner from four to five o’clock P. M. But it is usual to have a cup of coffee upon rising in the morning, and a cup of tea, with crackers or fancy cakes, is taken at night.

Tea is generally taken for breakfast by the Brazilians, and when I made inquiry at the breakfast table for a cup of coffee, it had to be made before it could be furnished. The cups here are exceedingly small, holding but little more than an ordinary wine-glass; and the coffee or tea is made strong in an increase ratio to the size of the receptacle, which suits my taste very well, as I have no fancy for long coffee, by which term the Brazilians style it when very weak.

My isolated position among strangers, whose language was unknown to me, was relieved by meeting aboard Senor Antonio de Barros, to whom I had been introduced at the house of the Minister of Agriculture. He speaks English, so as to carry on conversation very well, though he seems to be impressed with a sense of his deficiency in the use of the language. I found him quite kindly disposed, and in all respects a gentleman. He assisted me in making known my wants at the table, and on other occasions, giving me also a correct pronunciation of the few Portuguese words which I had acquired for necessary purposes. He proved to be a very genial and intelligent associate during the voyage, and gave me important items of information in regard to the province of São Paulo, in which he resides. He is a brother-in-law of Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, the Minister of Agriculture, and his father is Baron of Rerecicoba, so that his associations are the best of the land. Having received his education as an engineer in Germany, he speaks that language and French as well as his native tongue, the Portuguese. His knowledge of English has been obtained from teachers and reading, without any opportunity of associating with people speaking the language. Under these circumstances, I was surprised that he should have so good a pronunciation and conception of the English language.

There was a young Portuguese aboard of the steamer who also spoke some English, and manifested a disposition to assist me in getting a vocabulary of Portuguese words. His pronunciation of English, however, was very defective, and frequently I could not understand what he attempted to say to me, which made our intercourse rather embarrassing.

There was a sleight-of-hand operator on the vessel, who afforded considerable entertainment by his tricks, with a small ivory ball and a cup or stand with a cover, in which this and other articles would be placed and removed at will, without any one being able to detect the process.

Our steamer kept in sight of land throughout the entire route, and occasionally passed between an island of rock and the shore, giving a fine view on each side.

Friday, September 22, 1865.

After a late breakfast, most of the passengers repaired to the deck, where comfortable seats were arranged for their accommodation. The atmosphere was quite cool, and with a brisk wind, I felt as if my overcoat would be acceptable, but being interested in the scenery I did not care to go below for the purpose of getting it, and I walked to and fro upon the deck, so as to keep my blood in active circulation. I was, perhaps, the only man who did not smoke, and most of them were using the cigarettes made of the corn husk, containing tobacco, which are very much in use here by all classes of people. In the Portuguese language this is called cigar, while our article of that name is called cherotte. The snuff is ordinarily called tobacco here, and the article for chewing fumo, thus changing all our terms in the Portuguese language.

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning, and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends. His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance. These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city; but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr. Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house. Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going, so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others in that section.

I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife; Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others having large estates that may be for sale.

Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his invitation, I of course accepted it.

Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement elsewhere, until I examine that locality.

Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo, and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate very much the transportation of products to this point; which will afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro. Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.

After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city, which cannot be noticed now.

In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the Anglo-Brazilian Times as voyaging through the country.

Saturday, September 23, 1865.

Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in advance of the regular hour.

All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses, the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M., and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for the bandboxes also.

At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot; yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles. He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.

The steep ascent of this mountain side is made by a zigzag road, which is cut from the slopes of the cliffs, and paved with stones. At some places there are precipices descending suddenly from the edge of the road to great depths, so as to make the traveller feel serious apprehensions for his passage along the rather narrow track of the road. I was told that mules have been sometimes forced over these abrupt edges into the awful gorge beneath, from the crowding of a large number into these narrow places, and their utter destruction is of course inevitable. There has been no instance, however, of any accident to the diligencia, which run this route from day to day; and hence a sort of guarantee of safety is afforded by this mode of conveyance, which is not felt upon the newly-constructed railroad line, which ascends the serra by inclined planes and stationary engines.

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge, to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain, which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath, with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those which were passed after getting into the diligence, it is a fair estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas ($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way from Santos to São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica, which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are particularly destructive.[^[10]]

Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden. With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body, and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia, and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr. Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them was found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment, and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late hours to suit my taste.

Sunday, September 24, 1865.

The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several years at school in Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit, and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.[^[11]]

Monday, September 25, 1865.

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from this source, and accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar, who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that might render me service until my baggage should arrive by the cart of the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving, Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department, and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together by kindred feelings, as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords, and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house was open to me at all times.

Tuesday, September 26, 1865.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton; when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience, that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit; and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed; and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr. Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons. Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in the evening, I proceeded with them to the lower apartment of the house, where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part to the comprehension of the others present.

Wednesday, September 27, 1865.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter, as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

Thursday, September 28, 1865.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals, however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would have been so much delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted, there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land, constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I can’t see them now.

Friday, September 29, 1865.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have determined to send him a letter of thanks, expressing my obligations for the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the people.

Saturday, September 30, 1865.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill, and a well-constructed furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand, will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick, instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse, rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,) he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens, where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results compared with those of good lands.

October 1, 1865.

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford, was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way, under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in attendance at each service were from the humbler class of society, and there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through his influence with the government.

Monday, October 2, 1865.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr. Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

Tuesday, October 3, 1865.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely through, after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made, to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas, a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this line of railroad to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi, before 12 o’clock M.

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not likely to become a pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.