LIFE OF A PIONEER
BEING THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH:
GEO. Q. CANNON & SONS CO., Printers.
1900.
PREFACE.
THE life of a pioneer in Western America always is full of peril and hardship; often it has a large share of startling episodes and thrilling adventures; not infrequently it is associated with notable historic events; and the experiences met with develop independence of character, firmness of purpose, and, in those whose spiritual nature is not dwarfed by unworthy conduct, a sublime faith in God that when man puts forth his highest endeavor all things beyond the scope of his efforts are ordered for the best by the Great Ruler of the universe. When to the pioneer's experiences are added those that come from travel in foreign lands, perils of the sea, and the hostility of warlike foes, the narrative of such a life cannot fail to be alike profitable and interesting reading to both young and old.
The subject of the autobiographical sketch in this volume feels that he is not presumptuous in saying that each class of experience named in relation to the pioneer and the traveler has been his. The perils and hardships of the pioneers in whose work he commingled have been the theme of song and story for half a century; the thrilling and adventurous character of his experiences as frontiers-man and Indian interpreter were of a kind notable even in those avocations; his association with historic events of moment includes the period when the territorial area of the great Republic was almost doubled by the acquisition of the Pacific slope and the Rocky Mountain region, and when the great gold discovery in California was made, since he was a member of the famous Mormon Battalion and also was present at the finding of gold in California, being the first man to declare—on tests made by himself—that the little yellow flakes were the precious metal; and his reliance on Deity is portrayed in his missionary work at home and in foreign lands, with civilized people and among savages, often in circumstances when life itself apparently was forfeit to duty conscientiously performed.
In the following pages there is no claim to transcendent literary merit. Yet the writer feels that the narrative is presented in the plain and simple language of the people, with a clearness and force of expression that will be pleasing and impressive to every reader possessed of ordinary or of superior educational attainments; while the very simplicity and directness of the language used, far from embellishing the events described, prove an invaluable guide in securing accuracy, that not an incident shall be overdrawn or given undue importance.
The purpose of the writer has been to relate the story of his life, for the benefit and entertainment of his children and friends, and of all others who may read it, and to do so with a strict regard for veracity; for he feels that the numerous thrilling and sensational incidents in his life were sufficiently exciting to bear a toning down that comes from calm contemplation when the agitation of the immediate occurrence has passed, rather than to need the coloring of a graphic pen. In such a presentation, too, he feels that the result of his labors in this respect will be a further step in carrying out that which has been the leading purpose of his life, namely, to do good to all mankind, to the glory of God.
With a fervent desire and firm confidence that every worthy aim in presenting this autobiography shall be achieved, and shall find a vigorous and ennobling response in the hearts of those who read it, the leading events of his life, and the narration thereof, are respectfully submitted to his family and friends by
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
Home of the Author—A Career of Thrilling Experiences—His Birth and Parentage—Early Avocations—Migration from North Carolina to Illinois—Life on the Frontier—Dangers to Early Settlers—A Frontiersman—Father's Advice—More Settlers Come—Churches and Schools—Limited Opportunities—Frozen Feet—Unimpressionable to the Preaching of the Time—Talk of a New Religion, Prophets, Miracles, etc.—Prosecution of the New Church—"Showers of Stars"—Popular Adverse Views of the Mormons—The Mormons Driven from Missouri Into Illinois—Mormon Elder Comes to Preach—Converts Uncle James Brown—Preaches Again—Preparations to Mob the Elder—His Scriptural Doctrine Disconcerts Enemies and Secures him Friends—His Discourse—Effect on Young James S. Brown of the First Gospel Sermon to him—His Testimony to the Spirit and Truth of the Elder's Message.
Persecuted by Playmates—Give Them an Effective Check—Fight with Wild Beasts—Parents Join the Mormons—The Author Holds Back—Assassination of Joseph and Hyrum Smith—Mormons Leave Illinois for the West—Exciting Times—My Winter's Work—Father Decides to Wait a While Before Leaving Illinois—My Determination to go with the Mormons—Confide a Secret to my Mother—A New Consultation—Change In the Family Plans—Father Prepares to Start—Gives me Permission to Go—Thinks of Leaving me because of My Illness—I Feel to Prefer Death to Being Left Behind.
Start for Nauvoo—Taken Severely Ill—The Lord Answers my Prayer for Relief—Pass through Carthage—In Nauvoo "The Beautiful," but Almost Deserted City—Scene on the Iowa Shore—Cross the Mississippi—Curious Make-up of the Exiles' Teams—The Bad Roads—Stuck in the Mud—Repairing Camps—Good Order Maintained—Unnecessary Killing of Game Forbidden—Reach Grand River and Put In a Crop—Learn of the Call for the Mormon Battalion—Apostles as Recruiting Officers—Call for Volunteers—Response by the Camp—Received into the church by Baptism—Filled with the Love of the Gospel—Get the Spirit to Enlist—Consult my Relatives and Ezra T. Benson—An Elder's Promise—Join the Mormon Battalion.
Start for the Battalion Rendezvous—A Journey of Hardship—In the Mormons' Camp on Missouri River—First Experiences in the Army—Blessed by Apostles—Prophetic Address by President Brigham Young—The Battalion starts on its Long Journey—Doing Camp Duty—Heavy Storms and Insufficient Rations—Hard Experiences—At Fort Leavenworth—Mexican Mules as a Cure for Egotism—Colonel Allen Taken Ill—On the Santa Fe Road—Suffering from Thirst—Sickness among the Troops—Dr. G. B. Sanderson, a Tyrannical Quack—Army Merchants—Order of Marching.
Crossing of the Kaw River—Indian Farmers—Fierce Storm on Stone Coal Creek—Crossing a Creek with Precipitous Banks—Ruins of an Ancient City—Wagonload of Sick Upset in a Stream—Sad News of Col. Allen's Death—Dispute over His Successor—Military Rules Disregarded In Settling The Question—Troops Dissatisfied—Sickness In Camp—Harshness of the New Commander, Lieutenant Colonel Smith—Brutality of the Doctor —Doses of Objectionable Medicine in an Old Iron Spoon—In the Comanche Indian Country—-Abuse from Lieutenant Colonel Smith—Scarcity of Fuel—Buffalo Chips—Cooking Food under Great Difficulties—Increase of Sickness—Up the Grand Valley of the Arkansas—Detachment of Sick Sent to Pueblo—Mirages—Herds of Buffalo—On the Sick List—Reach the Rocky Mountains—Prehistoric Ruins—In Mexican Villages—Arrival at Santa Fe.
Exemplary Conduct of the Mormon Troops—Lieutenant Colonel P. St. George Cooke Arrives and Assumes Command—A Welcome Change—Another Detachment of Sick, also the Laundresses, Sent to Pueblo—Selecting Men to Continue the Journey to California—Reducing the Baggage—Difficulties of the 1,100 Miles Journey Ahead—Poor Equipment Therefor—Leave Santa Fe—Roads of Heavy Sand—On One-third Rations—Hardships Increase—Galled Feet and Gnawing Stomachs—More Sick Men for Pueblo—Leaving the Last Wagons—Mules and Oxen In a Pack Train—In an Unknown Country—Hunting a Pass over the Mountains—Alarm of an Enemy—A Beaver Dam—Crossing the Rio Grande Del Norte—Great Suffering Among the Troops.
Pushing to the West—Overhearing a Conversation with Col. Cooke—The Colonel Fears the Men Will Starve—No Berries, not even Bark Of Trees, for Food—True State of Affairs as to the Outlook Kept from Most of the Troops—Hides, Intestines, and even soft Edges of Hoofs and Horns of Animals Eaten—"Bird's Eye Soup."—In a Snowstorm—Relics of Ancient Inhabitants—Camp without Water—Old Silver and Copper Mines—Hardest Day of the Journey—Men Appear as if Stricken with Death—The Writer so Ill as to be Unable to Travel Longer, and Expects to Die—Uncle Alexander Stephens Comes with Water and Revives Him—Awful Suffering in Camp—Reported Sick Next Morning—Brutal Dr. Sanderson Gives a Deadly Dose of Laudanum, but the Writer Vomits it After Being Made Fearfully Sick—In Terrible Distress for Days—Healed by the Laying on of Hands of the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
On the Summit of the Rocky Mountains—Crossing the Backbone of the North American Continent—Review of the Journey—Graves Opened by Wolves—Mutilated Bodies—An Unparalleled Journey of Hardship—The Prospect Ahead—A Matter of Life and Death—Start Down the Pacific Slope—Descending the Cliffs with Wagons—One Vehicle Slips and is reduced to Kindling Wood and Scrap Iron—Into a New Climate—Change in the Character of Vegetation—Wild Horses and Cattle—Attacked by Wild Cattle—Several Men Hurt and one Mule Gored to Death—A Number of Cattle Killed—Supply of Beef—Reach the Pan Pedro River—Traveling Through a Heavy Growth of Mesquit and Chapparal—Approach the Mexican Garrisoned Town of Tucson—News of Approach of a Large American Army Sent to the Mexicans—Order Issued by Colonel Cooke.
On the Trail to Tucson—Excitement In the Town—Meet Mexican Soldiers—Our Numbers Overrated by the Indians—Mexican Commander under Orders to Oppose us—Colonel Cooke Announces his Wish to Pass on Without Hostilities—Arrest of Corporal Cassaduran, son of the Mexican Commander at Tucson, and other Mexicans who are Held as Hostages for the Return of our Interpreter—The Interpreter is Liberated—An Armistice Proposed—Surrender of Tucson Demanded—Mexican Prisoners Released—Surrender is Refused—Colonel Cooke orders the Battalion to Prepare for Battle—Advance toward the Town—Flight of the Mexicans—At the Gates of Tucson—Our Line of Battle—Address by Colonel Cooke—We Enter the Town, and Pass Through to Camp—Purchases of Wheat, Corn, etc.—The battalion nearly Starved—Night Alarm of a Mexican Attack—Difficulties of Getting into Line—No Enemy in Sight—Start Across the Gila Desert—Agony on the Burning Sands and Alkali Flats—Strengthened by the Divine Blessing—Reach the Gila River.
On the Gila River—Pima Indian Village—Welcome Gifts from the Pimas—Among the Maricopa Indians—Asleep on the Trail—Visit from a Bear—Loss of Provisions Through an Attempt to Float a Quantity Down the Gila—Hard Traveling—Crossing the Colorado River—Gloom In the Camp—Lower and Upper California—Terrible March over the Tierra Caliente, or Hot Lands—Digging Wells for Brackish Water—Advance Guard Reach a Mountain Spring—Water Carried back to Revive the Fainting Troops—Last Spoonful of Flour Used—Dividing the Rations—In the Canyons of the Sierra Nevada—Hewing Roads through Rocks and Brush—Feeding on Live Acorns and Green Mustard—News of Victories by United states Troops in California—Preparing to Engage the Retiring Mexican Army—First House Seen in California—Beef Without Salt—Trade for Acorn Mush—Heavy Storm and Flood In Camp—a Few Pounds of Flour Secured—Dancing in Mud and Water—Receive Orders to go to Los Angeles—Discover a Body of Troops in Line of Battle—Advance to the Attack—Supposed Foe Proves to be Friendly Indians—Presence of the Mormon Battalion prevents an Intended Attempt by Mexicans to Retake California, also an Uprising of Californians Against the United States—On a Battlefield where General Kearney had Fought—Relics of the Encounter—Prophecy of President Brigham Young and its Fulfillment—Source of His Inspiration.
Ordered to San Diego—First View of the Pacific Ocean—Rumors of the Enemy—Complimentary Order, by Lieut. Col. Cooke, on the Achievements of the Mormon Battalion—Reported Hostility of Col. Fremont to Gen. Kearney—Living on Beef Alone—Obtain some Flour—Routine of the Camp—Ordered to Los Angeles—Damage by an Earthquake—Wild Horses and Cattle Driven Into the Sea—Arrival at Los Angeles—Rumors of an Attack—Constructing a Fort—Guarding Cajon Pass—Surrounded by Wild Cattle—Take Refuge In a Ravine—Col. Fremont Arrested—Site of San Bernardino—Getting out a Liberty Pole—Brush with the Indians—Clearing Los Angeles of Dogs—Wickedness in the Town—Brutality of Bull Fights, Horse Racing, etc.—Always Ready for an Attack—First Raising of the Stars and Stripes on a Liberty Pole in California.
Term of Enlistment Expires—Battalion Members Preparing to Return to their Families—One company Re-enlists—An Insolent Spaniard—Pistol Snapped in the Writer's Face—Almost a Deathblow—Desperate Fight Stopped by Bystanders—Serious Trouble with Another Spaniard—Learn the Lesson to Avoid those who Gamble or Drink Intoxicants—Spanish Character—Class of California's Inhabitants in 1847—Condition of the Country—Appearance of the Towns and Villages—Difficulty in Securing an Outfit for Members of the Battalion to Journey Eastward.
Mormon Battalion Mustered out of Service—One Hundred and Fifty Members Organize to Return Fast to the Rocky Mountains—Start on the Journey—Difficulties of the Route—Dealing with Wild Horses and Cattle Stampede of a Pack Animal—Chase Into an Indian Camp—Lost All Night in a Swamp—Suffering on the Desert for Lack of Water—Arrive Near Sutter's Fort—On the Site of Sacramento Party Decide to Remain Over for the Year, and Obtain Employment—Meet Captain J. A. Sutter and James W. Marshall—Proposition to Capt. Sutter—Engaged to Work on a Sawmill—Proceedings at the Millsite—Mill Started Up—The Writer Engaged to Direct Indians Laboring at the Tail Race—Conversation with Mr. Marshall—Marshall Talks About Finding Gold—He and the Writer make a Search for Gold, but Finding None, Defer the Investigation till Next Morning—Marshall's Faith in his Being Successful In Discovering the Precious Metal.
Arrival of the Members of Mormon Battalion at Sutter's Fort Opens the Way for the Discovery of Gold In California—James W. Marshall out Early on January 24, 1848—"He is Going to Find a Gold Mine"—Regarded as a "Notional" Man—"Boys, I have got Her Now!"—Testing the Scales of Metal—"Gold, Boys, Gold!"—First Proclamation of the Great Gold Discovery—Second and Third Tests—All Excitement—Three or Four Ounces of Gold Gathered—Agree to Keep the Discovery Secret—Find the Precious Metal Farther Down the Stream—How the Secret Leaked out—More Discoveries—First Publication of the News made in a Mormon Paper—Washing out the Metal—First Gold Rocker—Gathering Gold—Part taken by Mr. Marshall, the Mormons and Capt. Sutter in the Discovery—Misfortunes of Sutter and Marshall—Account of the Gold Discovery Certified to by Several Eye Witnesses
Prepare to Leave California—Snow in the Mountains Causes a Wait till the Last of June—Discover a Rich Gold Prospect—Leave it to Make the Journey over the Mountains—No Regrets at Abandoning the Mines in Answer to a Call of Duty—Camp Organized in Pleasant Valley—Start on the Trip—Three Members of the Party Ahead, Looking out the Route, Found Murdered by Indians at Tragedy Springs—Covering the Bodies—Stampede of Animals—Guarding Against Hostile Indians—Crossing the Divide in Snow—The Writer Fooled—Take Two Indians Prisoners—Cutting a Road—Horses Stolen by Indians—Pursuit to Capture them—In Carson Valley—Along Humboldt River—At Steamboat Springs—Over the Desert—Member of the Party Wants to Kill Indians—The Writer's Emphatic Objection—Indians Wound Stock—Addison Pratt as a Lucky Fisherman—Writer Trades with an Indian—The Red Man's Trick—Writer Pursues him into the Indian Camp—Escape from Danger—Journey to Bear River—Hot and Cold Water Springs—Reach Box Elder—View the Great Salt Lake—Arrive at Ogden, where Captain Brown and some Saints had Settled—Journey to the Mormon Camp on what is now Pioneer Square, Salt Lake City—Heartily Welcomed by Relatives and Friends—Rejoicing and Thanksgiving.
Contentment Among the Saints in Great Salt Lake Valley—Rude Dwellings and Short Rations—Trying Experiences—Rescue of Mormon Battalion Members from Starvation—Carry News of California Gold Discovery to the East—Re-union of Mormon Battalion Members—Addresses by the First Presidency and Others—Settling a New Country—Organization of Minute Men—Cold Winter—The Gold Fever—Tenor of the Preaching and Prophesyings of those Times—Instructing the People in Industrial Pursuits—Policy Towards the Indians.
Scarcity of Food in the Great Salt Lake Valley—Wild Vegetables for Greens—Fair Prospects for Crops—Clouds of Crickets lay Bare the Fields—People struggle Against the Pests Almost to Despair—Vast Flocks of Sea Gulls, as the Clouds of Heaven, Come to the Rescue—Destruction of the Crickets—People Praise the Lord—The Writer Invited to a Meeting, Ordained a Seventy, and Called with Others to go on a Mission to the Society Islands—Words of Presidents Brigham Young and Heber C. Kimball—Preparations to Travel to California with an Emigrant Company—Description of the Route by Captain Jefferson Hunt—Start on My Mission—Prophecy by President Willard Richards—Battle with Indians at Provo Averted by Apostle C. C. Rich—Prospects of Utah Valley to Support Population—Overtake the Emigrant Company—Discussions at Beaver River—Company Starts for Walker's Pass—Turned Back by Scarcity of Water—Experience on the Desert—Dissensions in the Company—Futile Attempt to send some of the Members Back—Apostle C. C. Rich Foresees Further Trouble, and Endeavors to Save the Mormon Part of the Train by Advising Them to Return to the Old Spanish Trail—Methodist and Campbellite Ministers Incite the Company Against their Mormon Guide, Captain Hunt—Main Company Disregards Captain Hunt's Warning of Danger, and Leaves the Old Spanish Trail to Search for the Route Through Walker's Pass—Mormons go with Captain Hunt on the Southern Route.
Caught in a Snowstorm—Via the Santa Clara and Rio Virgen to the Muddy—News of Sad Disaster to the Emigrant Company—Making Charcoal and Nails—An Apostle as a Blacksmith—Searching for Water on the Desert—Crossing an Alkali Stream—Discover Gold near Salt Springs—Hurrying on over the Desert—Cattle Poisoned at Bitter Springs—Killing Animals to Relieve their Sufferings—First Wagon over Cajon Pass, going West—Severe Journey to the Summit of the Pass—All get Over Safely—Sense of Great Relief—Grass and Water In Abundance—Overtaken by survivors of the Emigrant Company—Their Story of Terrible Suffering—Divide Provisions with Them—Celebrating Christmas, 1849—Continuing the Journey North—Spanish Warning in a Cemetery to Indians—Cruelty of the Spaniards to the Indians—The Writer Placed In Charge of the Company—Directed to go to the Gold Mines.
Journeying Toward the Gold Diggings—Threatened by Wild Horses—Difficulties of Traveling—Convocation of the Feathered Creation—Rejoin Our Friends—Ferrying Across a River—Strike a Gold Prospect—On a Prospecting Tour—An Agreement that Failed—Instructed to go to San Francisco to proceed on a Mission—Trip to Stockton—Gamblers, Sharpers and Miners at that Place—A Temptation Overcome—Arrive in San Francisco—Welcomed by Saints—Receive Kind Treatment—On Hoard a Vessel Bound for Tahiti.
Sailing for the South Pacific—Severe Attack of Seasickness—Becalmed in the Tropics—Intense Heat—Marquesas Islands—Cannibals—Reach Tahiti—Land at Papeete—Meet with Friends—Hearty Welcome—Preaching to the Natives—Animosity of Protestants and Catholics Toward the Mormons—Jealousy of French Government Officials on the Island—Watched by Detectives—Six Natives Baptized—Learning the Language—Rumors of an Intention to Expel the Mormons—Elders B. F. Grouard and T. Whitaker Arrested—Appeal for Aid—Their Release and Return to their Missionary Labors—Meet with Brother Pratt Again—Interview with the Governor—That Official Refuses Elders Pratt and Brown Permission to Visit Another Island—Scarcity of Food at Huaua—Eating Seasnails and Bugs—Strange Dishes of Food—Almost Perish from Thirst—Visit to Tiarara—Acquiring the Language.
Offer of Transportation to the Island of Tubuol—Apply to the Governor for Permission to go—Troops on Parade—Suite of Queen Pomere—Call on the Governor—Conversation in Three Languages—Directed to Come Again Next Day—Put off by the Governor—Latter Refuses the Permission Asked—His Prejudice Against the Mormons—Demands a Statement of Their Doctrines—Not Required of Other Denominations—Writer's Interview with the Governor—Return to Huaua—Other Elders Requested to Assemble then—Bitterness of Protestant Ministers—Natives comment on Mormons Learning Their Language Quickly.
Visit to Papeete—Duck-Hunting Trip—A Peculiar Woman—Along a Perilous Path—An Opinion of English Ministers—Arrival of S. A. Dunn—Learn of More Missionaries Arriving at Tubuoi—News from my Father and Others—Letters from the First Presidency and Some of the Apostles—Written Statement Sent to the Governor of Tahiti—Visit the Governor—Our Statement Rejected—List of Questions and Statement Presented by the Governor—Reply of Elder A. Pratt—Objections by the Governor—Permission given us to Travel and Preach on the Islands.
Return to Huahua—Heavy Rainstorms—Refusal of an Offer to be Carried Over a Stream—Perilous Swimming Feat—Episode with a Wild Boar—Start on a Trip Around the Island—Obtain a Loaf of Bread—People not Desirous of Listening to the Mormon Elders—Customs of the Natives—Reputation of Protestant Clergy on Tahiti—With the Chief Magistrate of Uairai—Across a Small Bay in a Canoe—French Garrison at the Isthmus—With my Friend Pohe—Review of a Hard Journey—Again at Huaua.
Scarcity of Food—Traveling In Heavy Rains—Call on a Protestant Minister—Arrival of Another Missionary and Letters from Home—Visitors from Metia—Hold a Sacrament Meeting—Go to Papara—Abused by the Protestant Minister—Preach to the People—Young Woman Miraculously Healed at Baptism—Great Excitement—Rage of the Protestant Ministers—Persecution Instituted—Arrested for Preaching—Released on Promising to Return to Huaua—Plenty of Friends—Unintentional Escape from Gen d'Armes—Arrival at Papeete—Charge on which Officers seek to Arrest me—Abused by Rev. Mr. Howe—A Quiet Answer Calls Out Cheers from the Crowd—Tide Turns in my Favor—Excitement Calms Down, and Efforts to Arrest Me Cease.
Several Baptisms—Visit Papara Again—Coldness of the People—Bitter Efforts of the Protestant Ministers—Natives Visit Me In Secret—Anti-Mormon Mass Meeting—Foolish and Vicious scheme to Ensnare the Writer—It is Easily Defeated—Return to Papeete—More Baptisms—Departure of Elder Dunn—I am left Alone—Brethren come from Tubuoi—Elders Appointed to Labor in Different Islands—The writer Assigned to the Tuamotu Group—Leave on the Elders' Schooner the Ravai or Fisher—Meet with Contrary Winds—Driven to Various Islands—Encounter a Violent storm—In Great Peril—Vessel Beyond Control—Storm calms Down—Reach Tubuoi—First Preaching of the Gospel there, in 1844.
Hearty Welcome in Tubuoi—Start for Tuamotu—Reach Papeete, Tahiti—Visit to Huaua—Leave Tahiti—Writer gets Relief from Seasickness—Broiled Fish and Cocoanuts—in a School of Whales—Thrown onto a Coral Reef—Total Wreck Imminent—Three Persons yet Ashore—Boat goes out to Sea—Wreck of Elder Dunn's Party—Three Days In the Sea, Clinging to a Capsized Boat—Clothing Torn off by Sharks—Skin Taken off by the Sea and Sun—Reach the Island of Anaa—Recognized by a Man who had seen me in a Dream—Preaching and Baptizing—Many of the Natives Church Members—Make a Rude Map of the California Gold Fields—Tell of Having been in the Mormon Battalion—Catholic Priests Elicit this Information as Part of a Scheme to have me Expelled from the Island.
Invited to Organize Schools—Catholic Priests Displeased at Mormon Success—Good Attendance at the Schools—Threats by the Priests—Discomfiture of the Latter—Feast and Address of Welcome by the Natives to the Writer—Preaching and Baptisms—Catholic Priests seize a Schoolhouse Belonging to the Saints—Disturb a Saints' Meeting—More Baptisms—Further Annoyance by Catholics—People Decide Against Them—Town Officials Appealed to—They Uphold the Decision in Favor of the Mormons—Priests Write to Governor Bonard, Making False Charges Against me—A Peculiar Dream.
Go to Temaraia—Miraculous Healings—Child Assailed by an Evil Spirit—Strange Occurrence—Gift of Sea Biscuits—Perform a Surgical Operation—Hammering out Teeth—The Writer as a Surgeon and Dentist—Roughs Disturbs Meeting—They are Stricken with Death—Fatal Sickness among the People—Lower Classes of Natives at a Feast—Their Reverence for Religious Services and Preachers—Two Parties of Natives in Battle Array—Fighting Averted by the Writer Addressing the Contending Factions in Favor of Peace—Wars among the Natives—Some of their Practices—Gathering and Keeping Human Heads—Causes of Cannibalism—Conversation with one who had been a Cannibal—Flavor of Native and White Men's Flesh Compared—The Tastiest Part of the Human Body.
Hold Conference in Putuhara—Instructions to the Saints—Go to Otapipi—Opposition at Temaraia—Officials Bribed by Catholic Priests—Arrival of a French Warship—The Writer is Arrested while Expounding the Scriptures to the Natives—Cause of Arrest is False Accusation by Catholic Priests—I Plead Not Guilty—Ordered Taken to Tahiti—Painful Prison Experience—Cannibals in Custody—Start for the Ship—Sympathy of the Natives—Hurried into the Ship's Boat—In a School of Whales—A Frightened Boat Load—On Board the Warship—Uncomfortable Quarters—Questionable French Courtesy—Among Cockroaches, Filth, and Inconveniences—Soft Side of a Plank for a Bed.
Voyage to Papeete—In a Tahitian Dungeon—Cruel Treatment—Write to Friends—Kindness of the American Hotel Keeper—Brought Before the Governor—False Charges Read, and Plea of Not Guilty Entered—Perjured Testimony Against Me—Forbidden to Look at, or even Cross-Examine Witnesses—Secrecy of the Alleged Trial—Demand My Rights as an American Citizen—Confusion of the Governor—Returned to My Cell—American Consul takes up my Case—Gives Bonds that I will Leave the Protectorate—Elders and Friends Call on me—My Visitors Allowed to Say but Little, and Sometimes Excluded—Decision of the Governor that I must Leave the Society Islands—Fair Trial Refused me—Letter from the American Consul—Taken to the Consul's Office—Advised to Leave—Elders Decide that I should go Outside of the French Protectorate—Set Sail from Papeete.
Leaving Tahiti under the Order of Banishment—Supply of Provisions Exhausted—Caught in a Calm—Suffering from Lack of Food—Reach Tubuoi—Go Ashore upon Invitation of the Queen—Sail for Raivavai—Meet Elder Pratt There—Left Alone on the Island—Savage Character of the Natives—The Governor a Friend—Visit from House to House—People Generally Unwilling to Receive the Gospel—Council Decides that I must Leave the Island or be Killed—A Time of Excitement—Storm Passes for a while—Baptize Twenty Persons—Noted Chief and the Heiress to the Throne Join the Church—More Bitterness and Excitement—Two Parties of Natives Meet to Engage in Battle—Manage to Reconcile Them and Prevent Bloodshed—Further Threats Against the Mormons—Some Church Members feel to Retaliate but are Restrained—Passengers Arrive with False and Scandalous Stories About the Mormons—Persecution Increases—The Few Saints on the island Become Sorrowful and Discouraged—Protestant Ministers Advise Expulsion of the Saints—Renewal of the Faith and Zeal of the Church Members.
People Gather at a Feast, and to Decide what to do with the Mormons—Threats to have Roast Missionary—Saints hold Prayer and Testimony Meeting—Kept Awake all Night—Council of Natives Decides to Roast and Eat me—Fire is Built—Men Sent to Drag me to the Council—Promises of Presidents Brigham Young and Willard Richards Come to my Mind—All Fear Is Banished—Saints and Their Enemies Ordered to Separate—All but Two Mormons Stand by me—Sublime Courage of a Native and His Wife—The Charge Against Me—I Appeal to the Bible, but our Enemies Refuse to be Guided by the Law of God—Notified of the Decision that I am to be Burned—Spirit of the Lord Rests upon me in Great Power, Inspiring me to Defy our Enemies—Spirit of Confusion Enters our Foes—They Quarrel and Fight With Each Other—Difficulty In Restraining Church Members—Deliverance which the Lord Wrought out for me—I am Allowed to proceed Unmolested—Meet a Member of the Council which Condemned me to Death—His Testimony that a Pillar of Light Descended from Heaven and Rested on me, Filling them with Fear—No more Anti-Mormon Councils—Natives show no Disposition to Receive the Gospel.
Long time without News from Home—Letter from Elder B. F. Grouard—Released from my Missionary Labors in the Islands—Little Opportunity to Leave Raivavai—Natives Build a Schooner—Fast and Pray to Learn whether I should sail on the Vessel—The Answer—Sail for Rapia—Driven Back to Raivavai—Make a New Start—Arrive at Rapia—Ridiculous Idea of the People Concerning a Mormon Elder—I am Forbidden to go Ashore, on Pain of Death—Feeling is Modified Somewhat, and I go Ashore—Battle Between the Natives—An Old Man Gives me Food—Attend a Meeting, get Permission to Speak a Few Words and am Ordered from the Island—Increase of Sentiment of Toleration—Invited to Supper at the Governor's—Strange Custom of Women Waiting on Men—Rather than Follow it, I Submit to being Called a Heathen.
Determine to Preach to the People—Refused a House—Hold an Open-Air Meeting—Strange Congregation—Six other Meetings—Visit a Native King—He Commands me to Leave—I do so In Order to Avoid Being Put to Death—Watermelons and Other Vegetables—Native Tradition of the Peopling of the Islands—Visit of a Protestant Minister—Sail for Tahiti—In a Heavy Storm—Prayers by Frightened Natives—I am Asked to Pray with them, but Decline to Follow their Methods—Reach the Harbor of Papeete—American Consul Obtains Permission for me to Land—Go to Work with a Carpenter—Warned not to be Alone lest I should be Killed—Watched by Gen d'Armes—Trouble at Anaa, and Arrest of Native Mormons—These are Brought to Papeete—How they got Letters to me, and their Replies—My Former Persecutors of Raivavai Come to Me for Advice, and I Return Good for Evil.
Watched Closely by Gen d'Armes—Experience when at Prayer—Take Dinner with the Rev. Mr. Howe—Dining with a Catholic Bishop—Impatience of the Governor—Leave Tahiti on the Abyssinia—Curiosity of Passengers and Sailors—Difficulty in Getting out of the Harbor—Hear of More Trouble at Anaa—Captain's comment on Mormon Books—A Waterspout—Crossing the Equator—Encounter a Terrible Storm—A Tidal Wave—Ship Springs a Leak—Panic on Board—All Hands to the Pumps—Stopping a Leak—Fair Weather Again.
Arrive at San Francisco—A Wrecked Ship—The Abyssinia Condemned—Gathering Wreckage—Drunken sailors—My Trunk Held for Hospital Fees—Go Ashore, where all Is Changed and Strange—My Dilapidated Appearance—Seek Guidance of the Lord—Wander Almost in Despair—Meet an Old Friend—Find a Home—My Trunk Released—Meet Elders Going on Missions—Well Treated by Saints and Strangers—Providences of the Lord—Outward Bound Elders Entrusted Money to me for their Families—Engage to Carry Mail to Los Angeles—On a Steamer for San Pedro—Taken Severely Ill.
Become Desperately Ill—Nursed Back to Consciousness—Kindness of an Aged Spanish Couple—Belt with Money Entrusted to me Disappears—Intense Anxiety—Discover the Money—Great Suffering—Land at San Pedro—Left on the Beach—Drag Myself to the Shelter of an Old Wall—Kindness of a Spaniard and His Wife—A Terrible Night—Seek a Passage to Los Angeles with Freighters—Refusals—Meet a Kind Teamster—Reach Los Angeles—Dumped on the Street—Find Shelter, but a Chilly Welcome—Start Next Morning, Sick and Hungry, to Find a New Place—So Ill I have to Lie Down in the Street—Two Friends from San Bernardino—Am Told that I have the Smallpox—My Friends Give me Money and start in Search of a House where I can be Cared for—Failing to Secure a Room, they Engage the City Marshal to get a Place, and they Leave for San Bernardino—I wander for Shelter, but Doors are Closed, and People Avoid me—Lodge in a Doctor's Office while the Doctor is out—Scare the People by Shouting "Smallpox!"—The Doctor Returns but Leaves me in Possession.
City Marshal and Doctor Come to Remove me—Taken to a Deserted House, which had been Used as a Sheepfold—Bedded In Sheep Manure—An Indian Nurse who Becomes Frightened—Spanish Nurse Sent to me—In a boat with Patient Job—My Fever Increases—Attacked by Robbers—Relieved by City Marshal with Posse—Marshal takes the Money I have in my care, for Safe Keeping—Spanish Nurse Scared off—Queer Sailor Nurse—He Drinks Whisky, Sings and Dances—His Thoughtful Care of me—Visited by my Cousin—Kindness of San Bernardino Saints—Recovering from my Illness—My Clothing Burned—Heavy Expense Bill Against me—Tell the City Marshal of my Arrival in California as a United States Soldier in the Mexican War—Kindness of the Marshal—Los Angeles Assumes the Bill for Medical Attention Given me—Start for San Bernardino—Exhausted on the Journey—Almost Die of Thirst—Relieved by a Party of Spanish Ladies—Kindness of Spanish Families—Arrive at San Bernardino and Meet Friends and Relatives
Report my Mission—Prepare to Continue the Journey to Utah—Have to Remain at San Bernardino for a Time—Sickness among the People—Instances of Healing by Administration—Engage to Travel with a Pack Train to Salt Lake City—Get a "Bucking Mule"—Start on the Journey—In a Hostile Indian Country—Signs of Danger—Prepare for Trouble—Sudden Appearance of an Indian—Our Party Want to Shoot—I Protest, and make Friends with the Indian—Other Red Men Appear—Difficulty of Restraining our Party—I converse with the Indians, who tell of a Camp of Mormons and Mexicans a short Distance Ahead—How I Understood the Indians—Discover the Camp Spoken of—Rest a Day—Move Toward the Santa Clara—Danger Ahead—A Fire Across our Path—We Dash Through It—Hostile Indians—An Exciting chase—Meet Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich—Arrive at Cedar City—Stop at Parowan—Journey North, Preaching en Route—Reach Salt Lake City—Settle with the People for whom I have Money—Report to President Young—Preach In the Tabernacle—Released from my Mission—Cost of my Mission to the Society Islands.
Travel on Foot to Ogden—Well Received by Relatives and Friends—Reply to Inquiries by the People Regarding the Society Islands and the Inhabitants Thereof—Called to go to Fort Hall Order Countermanded—Called on a Mission to the Indians—Design of the Mission—Organization of the Company, and Start from Salt Lake City—Hard Work of the Journey—Attacked by Wolves—Fatal Duel at Fort Bridger—Plans of Desperadoes—We go to Smith's Fork—Build a Blockhouse—Arrival of More Men and Supplies—Threatening Attitude of the Indians—Writer made Sergeant of the Guard and Quartermaster—Instructions from Elder Orson Hyde—Life in our new Camp—Cold Weather and Wild Beasts—Learning the Indian Language—Give Shelter to Indians—Desperado Chief Killed by one of his Men—Animals Perish from Cold and Starvation—Terrific Storms and Snowdrifts—Saving our Stock—Shoshone Indians Ask for and Receive Assistance—Hunt tor Antelope Falls—A Bachelor's Dance—Raising a Liberty Pole—Partitioning out Lands—Plowing and Planting—Arrival of and Instructions by Elder Orson Hyde—Selections for a Special Mission to the Indians—Organization of Green River County.
Set Apart by Elder Hyde for our Special Mission—Blessing Conferred on the Writer—Discontent In Camp—Unity Again Prevails—Start on our Journey—Warned at Green River to go no Farther—Not Deterred from Performing our Mission—Proceed on our Journey—Futile Chase after Buffalo—Scarcity of Water—A Welcome Snow Storm—Reach the Camp of Washakie, the Shoshone Chief—Received with Caution—Tell the Chief the Object of our Visit—Give him Bread and Sugar—Boiled Buffalo for an Epicure Indian Powwow Called—Proceedings at the Council—Objection to one of our Propositions, which we were not Annoyed at—Recital of how Government Agents Sought to Supplant Washakie as Chief—Washakie a Great Orator.
Leave Washakie's Camp for the Other Portion of the Shoshone Tribe—Indian Guide Leaves us—Following a Trail—Sight the Other Camp—War Songs and Dances—Indians Preparing for War—Chief Gives up his Lodge to us, Warning us of Men in his Camp he Cannot Control —Indian Braves in War Paint—Surrounded by Fifteen Hundred or Two Thousand Indians—Learn that L. B. Ryan, a White Desperado Chief, is in Camp, and has sworn Vengeance on Mormons Escape seems Impossible, but we Trust in God—Retire for the Night—Ryan and Seven Warriors at our Lodge—Ryan Enters and Demands to know where we are from, and our Business—He is Told, Threatens us, and Summons his Indian Braves Inside our Lodge—Though the Enemy are two to one, we are Ready for them—Prepare for a Fight to the Death—Ryan and his Men Leave the Lodge, War Dance Outside—We Conclude to Sell our Lives as Dearly as Possible—War Party Approach the Lodge and Slit it In a Number of Places, then suddenly Depart—Our Lives being Spared, we Remain in Camp till Next Day—The chief Befriends us, Warning us not to Return the way we Came—Dispute as to the Route of Travel, and how it is Settled—Satisfied that Ryan intended to Ambush us—Rainstorm Obliterates our Tracks—Camp in the Rain—On the Alert for an Enemy—Shoot a Buffalo—Ward and Davis give chase, while Bullock and I continue on our Route—Camp at a ash—Bullock Taken very Ill—A Terrible Night—Ward and Davis not Returning by Morning, we Move on—Fear that Bullock will Die—Discover our Comrades in the Canyon—Being Hungry, we Overeat—Another Night of Sickness—Emerge from the Canyon—Press Forward to Green River—Welcomed by Friends—Three of our Party go on to Fort Supply, and I Remain to meet Chief Washakie.
Engaged as interpreter—Class of People at Green River—Appointed Deputy Sheriff—Drover Threatens to Kill Boatmen Arrest Ordered—Ride into the Outlaws' Camp—Bluffing the Captain—A Perilous Situation —Parley with Drovers—Compromise Effected—Dealing with Law-breakers—"Bill" Hickman as Sheriff Swimming Cattle Over Green River—A Drover's Failure—Writer Employed to get Cattle Over—How it is done Secret of Success—Arrival of Washakie—The Ferryman Offends him—The Angry Indian Swears Vengeance on the White Man—His Parting Threat—In Peril of an Indian Massacre.
Consternation at Washakie's Declaration—People Hurry across the River—The Writer is Asked to Attempt a Reconciliation—Night too Dark to Travel—Chief Washakie and Braves Appear at Sunrise—The Chief notes that the People are Terror-Stricken, and Decides that he will be their Friend—Troublous Exploits of Mountain Men—Sheriff's plan of Arrest—How the Scheme Worked—Desperadoes Freed by the Court—Chasing an Offender—Surrounded by his Associates—Coolness and Pluck of the Sheriff Win—Ready to Return Home—A Trying Experience.
Go to Fort Supply—Start back to Green River and meet O.P. Rockwell at Fort Bridger—He brings me a Trader's License, also Goods to Trade to the Indians—Being Late in the Season, We Store the Goods, and go to Salt Lake City—Receive the Approval of Governor Young—Move to Ogden—Accompany Governor Young as Interpreter—My Horse Stolen—Called on a Mission to the Shoshones—On going to Salt Lake City, I am Released—Ordered to take part In Disarming Indians at Ogden—A Difficult Job—Chase to Mound Fort—Hand-to-hand Struggle with a Powerful Savage—Indians Disarmed, but Sullen—Chief's Brother Offers all his Possessions for his Gun—Precautions Taken to Feed the Indians that Winter—Teach the Indian Language in School—Prosper In Business.
Another Mission to the Indians—Start for the Shoshone Camp—Difficulties of Travel—Near the Crows and Blackfeet—A Dream gives Warning of Danger—Discover a Large Body of Indians—No Opportunity of Escape—Ride into the Camp of a Hunting and War Party—Meet chief Washakie—A Day's March—Situation Critical—Hold a Council—Present the Book of Mormon—All but Washakie Speak Against us and the Book—Awaiting the Chief's Decision.
Washakie's Bold Attitude—Tells his Councilors they are Fools—Says the White Men, who are Wise, have Books—Tells the Tradition of how the Indians fell into Darkness—Great Spirit Angry at the Red Man—Advocates that the Indians live like White People—His Powerful Speech Gains the Day for us—Shoshone Tradition—We Start Home—A Hungry Trip—Return to the Indians, Finding them Sullen—Fourth of July Celebration at Fort Supply—Return Home.
Affairs at Home—Start for Fort Supply—Illness of myself and Family—Gift of Healing—Trouble with Indians at Fort Supply—Turbulent Red Men—I Help one off my Bed—They Persist In Taking or Destroying our Property—We Stop them—One Attempts to Kill me—Indians Retire from the Fort—Almost a Conflict—I check the White Men from Shooting—Indians Withdraw—We send to Governor Young for Assistance—Our Stock and Guards Driven in—Indian Agent Appears with Annuities—The Savages Submit—We Guard Day and Night—Indians more Peaceful—Reinforcements Arrive from the Governor—Matters Quiet Down.
Start Home from Fort Supply—Camp alone at Needle Rook—Awakened by my Horse—Surrounded by Wolves—Flash Powder all Night to keep off the Wild Beasts—Reach Home—Supplies Short—Hardships of a Grasshopper Year—Getting my cattle out of a Canyon—Perils of being Caught in the Snow—Great Suffering—Breaking a Snow Road—Business Affairs.
Called on a Mission to Deep Creek Indians—Short Time for the Journey—Prepare for the Trip—Journey in the Desert—Horses Stolen—Travel on Foot—Saved from Perishing with Thirst—Meet the Indians—Could Understand and Speak to them—Indian Agent's Offer—I act as interpreter—Preach to the Indians—On the Return Trip—Visit Governor Young with a Delegation of Bannock Indians.
Utah Militia Organized—Elected Captain of a Company—Hear of Johnston's Army—Scouting Party sent out—I am Chosen as Guide—Travel to the Bear Lake Country—Cold Nights and Little Food—Complaint in the Party—Prove that I am Right—Reach Lost Creek—Some of the Men Object to Double Guard—A Discovery that Removes all Objections—Strike the Trail of Horsemen—Prepare for Action—Take a Camp by Surprise—The Men are Friends—Arrive at Ogden—Called to go on an Important Errand—Tussle with an Indian—Fail in Getting Desired Information, and Return to Ogden.
Off on Another Scout—Again on Bear River—Dream of Seeing Troops—Dream Fulfilled—Send Word back of Discovery—Five Hundred Cavalrymen—Heavy Storm—My only Remaining Companion taken Ill—He is Healed and I am Stricken Down—Camp in the Snow—My companion, Expecting me to die, Prepares to take my Body Home—He Returns, Prays for me and I am Healed—Stricken Down Again—I Direct him to Leave me and Return Home—He obeys Reluctantly—I Expect to die—Peculiar Experiences—Four Young Men, sent by my Comrade, come to my Relief— Journey on—Lighting fire in a Storm—The Young Men Pray for me, and I am Relieved—Traveling Homeward—Kind Treatment—Reach Ogden—Act as Sexton—Guard over Spies—Utah Militia Recalled—Missionary Labors in Weber County.
Mormons Abandon their Homes and Move South—Prepare for the Worst—Go to Payson—Affairs Being Settled, Return to Ogden—-Called to go East as a Missionary—Journey across the plains—Meet my Parents In Iowa—Preaching and Traveling—My Father's Testimony—Missionary Labors—Called to Missouri—Sent to bring a Herd of Cattle—Return to my Parents' Home—Bid Farewell to Them—Purchasing Cattle.
Given Charge of a Company to Cross the Plains to Utah—Composition of the Camp—Start West—Perform Baptisms—Meet a War Party of Sioux Indians—Place where A. W. Babbitt was Killed—Meet More Indians—How Trouble was Avoided—Camp Life and Duties—Enter Salt Lake Valley—Company Greeted by the Church Authorities—Report to President Young and am Released—Trade at Camp Floyd—Experience with a Thief—Go to Work on the Ogden Canyon Road—Hardships Endured.
Called on a Mission to Great Britain—Prepare to Depart—Start Without Purse or Scrip—Journey to Salt Lake City—Set Apart for the Mission —Begin the Journey Eastward—Organization of the Company—My Post as Chaplain—Overtaken by Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich—Traveling Through the Mountains—Snowstorms and Wind—Forage is Scarce—Meetings with the Indians—Captain Reynolds' Exploring Party—Army Deserters in our Camp—Mail from Home—Emigrants Westward Bound—Dissatisfaction In Camp—Feeling about Apostles Lyman and Rich—I Resign as Captain, but am Elected again, and Finally Resume Command—Mail Robbery—More Disagreeable Storms—Meet a Handcart Company and Apostle George Q. Cannon—Reach the Missouri River—Visit my Father and his Family—Go to St. Joseph, Missouri—My first View of a Railway Train—At my old Home in Brown County, Illinois—Journey Eastward by Rail—Arrive in New York for the First Time—Find Friends.
Visit Various Places of Interest in New York and Vicinity—Arrival of the Great Eastern—Preach at Williamsburg—New York's Celebration of the Fourth—My Thirty-second Birthday—Secure Passports and Ocean Passage—Crowded in the Steerage—Foggy and wet Weather—View of the Irish Coast—Fleet of British Warships—Land in Liverpool—Assigned to Birmingham Conference—In Birmingham—Listen to an Anti-Mormon Lecture—Visiting from House to House as a Mormon Missionary—Places of Interest—Transferred to Nottingham Conference—Preaching and Visiting—Mission Travels—Go to London—See Notable Places—News of my Daughter's Death—Birth of Another Daughter—Return to Nottingham.
Again at Missionary Labors—Baptisms—Become Quite Ill—Appointed President of the Nottingham District, Embracing three Conferences—Visited by Apostles A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and Others—Settling Differences among Church Members—Attend a Phrenological Lecture—Get a Chart—Go to Liverpool—In Conference at Nottingham—My Pastorate Enlarged—Witness a Military Review—More Baptisms—Visit Sheffield—Fixing my Name—Poverty in Nottingham—Invited to take a Trip to Paris—Go to London—Have to give up the Visit to France—In Poor Health—Return to Nottingham—See Professor Blondin.
Prolonged Illness—Attend to my Duties with Difficulty—Letter Telling of the Battle of Bulls Run—Witness an Execution by Hanging—Visit from George Q. Cannon, Joseph F. Smith and Others—Death of the Prince Consort—Go to Birmingham—Conference of the Priesthood In the British Mission—Large Meeting In Odd Fellows' Hall, Birmingham—Again at Nottingham—Visit Liverpool—Consult a Physician, but get little Relief—See the Liverpool Grand National Races—Depravity Among Poorer Classes in Liverpool—Again at Nottingham—Released to Return Home—Bid the People Farewell—Display of their Affection for me—Report of my Labors Published in the Millennial Star—On Board Ship—Placed in Charge of the Company—Sail for America—Driven by Headwinds along the Coasts of the Isle of Man, Wales, Ireland and Scotland—Severe Seasickness—Get to Sea—Slow Voyage—Deaths and Burials at sea—Land at New York—Guest of Hon. W. H. Hooper—Journey to Florence, Nebraska—Captain and Guide of Independent Company—Reach Salt hake City—Report to President Young—Again at Home.
Remove from Ogden to Salt Lake City at the Request of President Young—Necessity for Preaching among the Saints—In the Employ of President Young—On Another Mission, this time in Utah—-Preaching and Lecturing—Build a House—Go to the Canyon to get Finishing Lumber—Shot in Mistake for a Bear—My Wound very Serious—Taken to Wanship to Receive Care—My Family Notified and Surgical Assistance Obtained—Moved to my Home—In Bed Nine Months—Two Surgical Operations—Grow Stronger—Employed at the Warm Springs—Dr. Robinson—Abscesses in my Wounded Limb—Out of Employment—Go to the California line to Examine a Gold Prospect—Perilous Journey—Indians on the Warpath—Remarkable experience with a Band of Savages—Gift of Speaking their Language—Unable to work the Gold Claim Because of Lack of Water—Return to Salt Lake City—Go to the Gold Discoveries on the Sweetwater—Discover a Placer claim—An Attempt to Rob me of It—Bush for a Mine—Hold the Claim—Assailed by Hostile Indians—A Race for Life—Three Men Killed—We Abandon Camp—Suffer with my Lame Limb—Lose the Mining Claim—Hauling Coal and Produce—Almost Die—Confined to Bed for Months—Amputation of my limb to save my Life—Recovery—Attend to my Nursery—Advent of the Railway—Traveling and Preaching—A Slight Sunstroke.
Called on a Mission to the United States—Journey Eastward—Visit Relatives en Route—Reach New York—Measured for an Artificial Limb—How It was Paid for—Visit and Preach—Meet Poor Encouragement—Go to Boston—World's Peace Jubilee—Bunker Hill—Again at New York—Released to Return Home—Back in Utah—Traveling and Preaching—Sent for by President Young—Called on a Mission to Arizona—Directed to Furnish Names of Others—Send the List—President Young adds other Names—Set Apart for our Mission—Difficult to Collect Money due me—Leave my Family Poorly Provided for but Trusting In the Lord—Placed In Charge of the Mission—Letter of Instructions—Start South—People Contribute Liberally—Traveling in Storm—Arrive at Kanab—In Arizona—A Hard Journey—Marriage of my Daughter—Reach Lee's Ferry on the Colorado—Crossing the River—Reach Moencoppy Wash—Decide to Winter There—Explore the Vicinity—Meet Friendly Indians—Building a House—Exploring the Little Colorado—A Difficult Trip—Description of the Route—Find a Place for Another Settlement—San Francisco Mountains—Fine Forest Growth—Caught in Deep Snow—Through with a Perilous Journey—Decide to Return to Salt Lake City and Report—Heavy Snow—Trip Homeward—Cordially Greeted by President Young—With my Family.
Attend Meetings with the First Presidency and Apostles—More Missionaries called to Arizona—Many Inquiries Regarding the Mission—Outline the Route—Preparations for Travel—Start South—Aided by Contributions—Reach Moencoppy—Meet Lot Smith and Company—Baptisms—Start for the Little Colorado River—Guide Missionary Companies to the Place we had Selected for Settlement—Lot Smith Refuses to Acknowledge my Appointment from President Young as President of the Mission—He Assumes Leadership of the new Settlement—I Return with my Party to Moencoppy—Other Companies of Missionary Settlers sustain my Presidency—My Health is Poor—Settlers Discouraged—Cheer them up—Work of Frontier Life—Succor a Company whose Water Supply is Exhausted—Taking up Land—Make a Long Exploring Trip—Introduce Book of Mormon to Navajos—Return to Moencoppy—Indians Dissatisfied—Go to Salt Lake City with a Delegation of Navajo Chiefs—Their Supposed Grievances Settled—Tell President Young I have come Home to Stay—He Sends me out Again—Directed to Procure Volunteers—Letter of Instructions—Lecture, and take up Contributions—Return Home—My Family Ill—Provide Supplies for Them—Conditions Improve.
Again in Arizona—Settling Difficulties Among the People—Our Reservoir Bursts—News of Notable Events—Prepare to Repel an Indian Raid—Indians Quarrel, and the Trouble Passes Over—Funeral at Moencoppy—Exploring Trip to the Southeast—A White Indian Child—Meet the Head Chief of the Navajos—His Address, and Proposition to Accompany me to Salt Lake City—Agree on a Date for the Journey—Continue my Trip Over into New Mexico, then Return to Moencoppy—Accusation Against me Disproved—Indians Gather to go to Salt Lake City—Make the Trip—At President Young's Deathbed—Visit the Indians—Honorable Release from my Mission—Resume Home Missionary Labors—In Prison for Conscience Sake.
Visited by President Joseph F. Smith—Called on Another Mission to the Society Islands—Prepare To Respond—A Blessing by Apostle Lorenzo Snow—Appointed to Preside over the Society Islands Mission—Attempts to Discourage me from Undertaking the Journey—Surprise Party by my Children—Farewell Reception In the Ward Hall—Start on my Mission, Accompanied by my Son and Others who had been Called—Voyage to Tahiti—Madman on Board the Vessel—At Marquesas Islands Strange Characters—Tattooed White Man—His Peculiar Career—Catching Sharks —Arrive at Papeete—My Reception There—Meet Native Josephite Preachers, who seem Confused—Elders from Utah Greet us—in Poor Health.
First Sabbath in Tahiti—Meet Several Persons whom I Knew over Forty Years Before—How they Remembered me—Seek Permission to hold Public Meetings—Widow of my Old Friend, John Layton, Calls on me Other Friends—Preach to the Josephites—Governor Refuses to Permit us to Hold Public Meetings—Get Advice of the United states Consul—A Lawyer's Counsel—Josephites tell of B. F. Grouard—I Explain how he had Turned into the wrong Path—The Church Never Disorganized—Missionary Labors—Greeting a French Admiral—Early Missionaries to Tahiti—Their Severe Experiences—Sixty-fourth Anniversary of my Birth—Learn of Mormons who were Hanged for Having Killed a Policeman in the Trouble when I was Arrested on my First Mission to the Islands—Meet a Native of Pitcairn's Island—His Story—Visit Tautila—Severe Voyage—A Baptism—Sail for Tubuoi—Among Strangers Celebration of a French Fete Day—Dine with the Governor—People Become less Unfriendly to us—Breaking of the Clouds—Baptize Twenty-four Persons—Encouraging Results of Missionary Efforts.
Miraculous Healing—Meet and Confound the Josephites—Further Missionary Success—Meet a Native who was Present when I was Sentenced to be Burned—Elder John Layton's Grave—Arrange to Return to Tahiti—Disappointed—Preach a Funeral Sermon—Forbidden to Hold Public Meetings—Blind Woman one Hundred and Twenty Years Old Her Testimony—Administer to her for her Eyesight, and she Is Enabled to see a Little—She Praises the Lord—Preaching and Baptizing—Sail for Papeete—An odd Cargo—Hard Voyage—Held by a Calm—Land on Tahiti—Sail for Avaroa—On a Well-ordered Schooner—Call at Various Islands—Lance a Carbuncle—Christmas Day at Sea—Watermelons—A Beautiful Residence and Cordial Welcome—Perform Three Marriage Ceremonies—Conference of Saints in the Tuamotu Islands—Meet a Native Chilean—Visit Various Places—Public Welcome—Fishing—On the Island of Anaa—Visit Where I was Imprisoned—Graves of those Concerned In the Trouble Then—Warrant Served on me—Summoned to the Government House—Warned Against Creating a Disturbance.
Preaching and Visiting—Pearl Fishing—Place of my Arrest in 1851—Accident to a Young Man—Incident with the Governor of Anaa—See a Leper—Capture of an Eel—Conference on Anaa—Time of Dedication of Salt Lake Temple—Specially Interesting Meetings—New Elders from Utah—Start back to Tahiti—Another Funeral Sermon—Meet the French Governor of the Tuamotu Islands—His Cordial Greeting—Arrive at Papeete—Appointments for the New Missionaries—Fall to get a Passage to Tubuoi—My Health Very Poor—Learn of the Dedication of the Salt Lake Temple—Elders Unanimous in the Decision that I should Return Home Because of my Illness—I Demur—Conclude to go—Trouble on Anaa—My Sixty-fifth birthday—Notable Kindness of a Native child—Sail from Papeete—Difficulty In Landing from Small Boats—In the Society Islands—Reach San Francisco—Arrive in Salt Lake City—Report the Successful Opening of the Society Islands Mission.
Invited To the Midwinter Fair, San Francisco, and Accept—Journey to California—Kind Treatment Received—An Honored Guest—Write a Pamphlet on the Discovery of Gold at Sutter's Mill Race—First Accurate Account Published—Again at Home—Preparing my Autobiography for Publication—A Great Task—Progress of the Work—My History of the First Mission to the Pacific Islands—Utah's Semi-Centennial Jubilee—Not a Utah Pioneer of 1847—Pioneer Just the Same—Mormon Battalion Recognized in the Utah Celebration—Invited to join In the Parade—Comparative Narrowness of Committee's Courtesy—Letters from California Regarding the Pioneer Celebration there in 1898—Invited with three Others of the Mormon Battalion, to be Special Guests as the Survivors of the Party that Discovered Gold In California in 1848—Appreciation of the Courtesy Extended by Californians.
Trip to California—Met by the Committee on Reception of the Society of California Pioneers—Received with Great Cordiality—Honored Guests at California's Golden Jubilee—The Celebration—Courtesies Extended to Mormon Battalion Members Present at the Discovery of Gold—Return Home—Resolutions by Society of California Pioneers—Report of Reception committee of California Golden Jubilee—Sketch of Marshall's Surviving Companions—Complete my Autobiography—My Son Homer Accidentally Killed—The Old Folks—Publication of Life of a Pioneer—Conclusion.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
[Fire Prepared to Roast the Missionary—Sentenced to Death]
[A Typical Tahitian with his Burden of Bread Fruit and Feii]
[A War Party of Shoshones Dancing around their Prisoners while in the Chief's Lodge]
[Surrounded by a Pack of Hungry Wolves]
LIFE OF A PIONEER
BEING THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF
JAMES S. BROWN.
CHAPTER I.
HOME OF THE AUTHOR—A CAREER OF THRILLING EXPERIENCES—HIS BIRTH AND PARENTAGE—EARLY AVOCATIONS—MIGRATION PROM NORTH CAROLINA TO ILLINOIS—LIFE ON THE FRONTIER—DANGERS TO EARLY SETTLERS—A FRONTIERSMAN—FATHER'S ADVICE—MORE SETTLERS COME—CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS—LIMITED OPPORTUNITIES—FROZEN FEET—UNIMPRESSIONABLE TO THE PREACHING OF THE TIME—TALK OF A NEW RELIGION, PROPHETS, MIRACLES, ETC.—PERSECUTION OF THE NEW CHURCH—"SHOWERS OF STARS"—POPULAR ADVERSE VIEWS OF THE MORMONS—THE MORMONS DRIVEN FROM MISSOURI INTO ILLINOIS—MORMON ELDER COMES TO PREACH—CONVERTS UNCLE JAMES BROWN—PREACHES AGAIN—PREPARATIONS TO MOB THE ELDER—HIS SCRIPTURAL DOCTRINE DISCONCERTS ENEMIES AND SECURES HIM FRIENDS—HIS DISCOURSE—EFFECT ON YOUNG JAMES S. BROWN OF THIS FIRST GOSPEL SERMON TO HIM—HIS TESTIMONY TO THE SPIRIT AND TRUTH OF THE ELDER'S MESSAGE.
THE subject and author of this Life-Sketch of a Pioneer is James Stephens Brown, now (1900) in his seventy-second year, a resident of Salt Lake City, Utah, his home less than a quarter of a mile from and within the summer morning's shadow of the majestic Temple of the Lord erected on that spot which he beheld a barren and desolate wilderness, on his entrance into the valley of the Great Salt Lake, over half a century ago. His life has been one of thrilling experiences—more than ordinarily falls to the lot even of a pioneer settler in the Great West—a life in which hardship and perils by sea and land, among dusky savages and with white men, have contributed largely to the events of his career; withal one in which he has had abundant occasion to recognize and acknowledge the power and protecting care of an Almighty Providence.
It is at the urgent request and advice of valued friends, familiar to a considerable extent with my life and labors, that I place this autobiography in form to be easily accessible to those desirous of perusing it; and I am not unmindful of the fact that this simple recital of events is not only of intense interest in numerous episodes which it records, but is of historic value in being a plain and truthful narrative of the personal experiences of a western pioneer.
I was born on Independence Day, July 4, 1828, in Davidson County, North Carolina, U.S.A. My father was Daniel Brown; he was the youngest son of his father's family, and was born in Rowan County, North Carolina, June 30, 1804. My father's father was James Brown, a native of Rowan County, North Carolina, 1757 being the year of his birth. His wife was the widow of a Revolutionary War soldier named Emerson, who was killed in the war for American independence, leaving his wife and two children, Margaret and John Emerson. My grandfather James Brown married the widow Emerson, who bore him nine children—three sons and six daughters—Jane, Polly, Nancy, Susan, Patsy, William, Obedience, James (captain of Company C, Mormon Battalion), and Daniel (my father); her maiden name was Mary Williams. All the family had an excellent reputation, being upright, thrifty, and good and industrious citizens.
With these introductory remarks, I will proceed to an account of my boyhood's days. I was reared at the farming and stock business, also at getting out saw timber and wood for cooperware. My parents had moved from North Carolina to Brown County, Illinois, in the autumn of 1831, and had purchased an extensive tract of land. We were a large family; the country was then wild and with very few inhabitants, and the climate was unhealthy; so it was with great effort that father and mother succeeded in making a home and gathering about them the comforts of life.
We were frontier settlers, and while father had his pick of land, he also had the hardships and privations of a new country to endure. There were no churches or schoolhouses nearer than ten miles from our home, and grist mills and blacksmith shops were equally distant. Thus the family was reared without the advantage of schools, or of church-going religious training. But we were thoroughly acquainted with border life, with hunting, fishing, and all the sports indulged in by hardy pioneers, and even learned to shake terribly from the ague, and burn with fever spells, while we were well dosed with quinine and calomel, and had enormous doctor's bills to pay.
In our operations we trained horses and cattle to work, stocked our own plows, made our own harrows, rakes and forks, braided our own whips from the pelts of wild beasts which we ourselves dressed, raised our own honey, and made our own sugar, with some to sell. We had a good sugar orchard, and plenty of wild fruits and nuts for the gathering. As the first settlers of new countries are more or less subject to dangers from outlaws, wild beasts, and savage men, we found it important to be well armed, and on the alert day and night to defend life and liberty.
Thus we learned the use of firearms and the tomahawk. My father was an expert with the old Kentucky rifle, and some of his boys were not far behind him; he trained them always to shoot with a rising sight, to keep cool, and always to have their powder dry and plenty of it. He also taught us to tell the truth, and used to say: "Be honest, stand up for your rights, and fight for your country and friends."
In the year 1835, people began to settle in around us, and then the circuit riders, as they were called—the ministers—commenced to call around and hold meetings in private houses. There were Baptists, Freewill Baptists, Methodists, Campbellites, and others. From 1836 to 1838 some small churches and schoolhouses were built, so that we began to get spiritual food, such as it was; and also some schooling, with the benefit of the hickory rod that always was kept "in soak," so to speak, and woe to the unruly student when it was called into service!
So far as the author is concerned, he managed to get along without the rod the short time he was permitted to attend school. He was kept close at work on the farm in summer, and in the winter months was engaged getting out timber and hauling to market the farm products. Once his feet were frozen so that he lost every nail from his toes. As to the religious teachings of the time, there was a great deal of thundering and thundering, but it failed to indicate any lightening of the author's path, for he fished and hunted on the Sabbath day, just the same.
Some time in the '30s we began to hear a little about false prophets, a new religion, miracles, money-diggers, thieves, liars, miracle-workers, deceivers, witches, speaking in tongues and interpretation of the same, walking on the water, and visits from angels. As time went on, all these things were combined to form a grand excuse for raising mobs to expel the new Church from the borders of civilization. Then came news of murder, rapine, house-burning, and destruction of towns and cities in Missouri. There were great "showers" of stars in the firmament about this time. On popular rumor, and from hearing only one side of the story, almost everybody decided that such a previously unheard-of people as the Mormons ought to be shot or burned at the stake. This was the sentiment to be found on every hand.
As a culmination of these things came the tidings that the Missourians had driven the Mormons from the state of Missouri into Illinois. A little later, and a Latter-day Saint Elder named Jacob Pfoutz entered the neighborhood of my Uncle James Brown's home, converted him, his wife, and several of the neighbors. This Elder was brought down by my uncle to see his two sisters, Aunts Polly and Nancy Brown.
Elder Pfoutz was given permission to preach in the schoolhouse about three miles from my father's house. The news spread like a prairie fire that the Mormons had come and would preach on Friday. I think this was in the autumn of 1840. I was at my aunt's at the time, and decided to go and hear the strange preacher. Like most of the people, I went out of curiosity, more than anything else. I had just turned my twelfth year, and had begun to take some interest in religion, going to every meeting for which I could obtain permission from my parents, yet not thinking for a moment but that all religions were right.
At the first meeting held by the Mormon, the house was pretty well filled. Some who attended did so with the thought that after the services were over they would tar and feather the Elder and ride him on a rail, as such things had been indulged in in Missouri, and threats had been made freely. Others were going to confound him, and still others wanted to see the fun, as they said.
The preacher was a plain-spoken man of thirty-five to forty years old, of German descent. He was plainly dressed, and without that urbane polish which ministers usually have. When he began his discourse, he raised up very calmly and deliberately and read from Matthew, seventh chapter, verses fifteen to twenty. He spoke from that text and corroborating passages, supporting his argument throughout by scripture. At the conclusion of his address, some of the people said they did not want to mob a man who preached like that, while others "sniffed" their noses and tried to get up a sneering laugh, but failed. The Elder was invited to my aunt's house and was granted permission to preach on Sunday in their oak-grove, while several of the religiously inclined followed him to his stopping place and plied him with questions.
As to myself, it seemed that I had not only heard it thunder, but I had seen the lightning and felt it through every fibre of my system, from the crown of my head to the soles of my feet. I was revived as the showers of heaven revive the parched earth and impart life to the languishing vegetation. Notwithstanding the fact that I knew the Latter-day Saints, or Mormons, were looked upon as filth, in fact as even worse than rubbish, that they had been called the very off-scourings of the earth, that they were regarded as deserving to be put to death, yet from that very day I received their doctrine in or by the spirit.
Now that sixty years have rolled by since the events here narrated; that I have passed through mobbings, robbings, fines and penalties; have been banished and once sentenced to death; Paul-like have fought with wild beasts, have been shipwrecked and almost starved; have famished on thirsty deserts; have had the scalping-knife wielded over my head while the Indian warwhoop saluted my ears and the savage warrior danced with tomahawk in hand, exulting over the victim intended to be slain and scalped in trophy of victory; have laid in dungeons for my religion's sake—thanks be to God that I yet live and bear a faithful testimony of the truth and spirit that possessed my soul from that first Gospel sermon I ever heard. I have listened to ministers of various Christian denominations advocate good and virtuous principles, but I never knew any of them to preach the fullness of the Gospel of the Lord Jesus as did that humble Mormon Elder.
CHAPTER II.
PERSECUTED BY PLAYMATES—GIVE THEM AN EFFECTIVE CHECK—FIGHT WITH WILD BEASTS—PARENTS JOIN THE MORMONS—THE AUTHOR HOLDS BACK—ASSASSINATION OF JOSEPH AND HYRUM SMITH—MORMONS LEAVE ILLINOIS FOR THE WEST—EXCITING TIMES—MY WINTER'S WORK—FATHER DECIDES TO WAIT A WHILE BEFORE LEAVING ILLLNOIS—MY DETERMINATION TO GO WITH THE MORMONS—CONFIDE A SECRET TO MY MOTHER—A NEW CONSULTATIONS—CHANGE IN THE FAMILY PLANS—FATHER PREPARES TO START—GIVES ME PERMISSION TO GO—THINKS OF LEAVING ME BECAUSE OF MY ILLNESS—I FEEL TO PREFER DEATH TO BEING LEFT BEHIND.
FROM the very day my parents entertained the Latter-day Saint Elders in their house my former playmates in the neighborhood commenced a crusade on me, calling me a Mormon, and many hard names, whenever they met me. When we gathered at the mill pond, our usual place of bathing, they would baptize me, as they called it, in the name of Beelzebub; but I called it drowning, for it seemed to me that when three or four of them got me under the water they never knew when to let me up. Then when I got out of the water they would mockingly "lay hands" on me in the name of Beelzebub, going through a ceremony and at short intervals calling "Pluck," when they would pull my hair with a severe twitch, and would spit on me and laugh. Once my clothes were taken and thrown into a bed of itching nettles, and when I tried to get them out with a pole I was pushed in among the nettles. At the gristmill, also, they would punish me in a shameful manner. At last I became so provoked that I went after them with a strong jack-knife. Though some of them were eighteen or nineteen years old, they ran off, fully convinced that I would have hurt them if I could have caught them. The miller interposed and gave them a severe reprimand. From that time they never tried to punish me. My medicine had worked well, and thereafter I was looked on as a leading boy among them.
During this period I had some perilous experiences with wild animals. My father had a pet deer, and a bulldog owned by the family caught it by the nose; I tried to get the dog off, when the frightened deer kicked and tore my clothes almost off, lacerating my flesh considerably. Soon after this the deer was followed, in the woods near the house, by a large buck, which my father shot. The animal's shoulder was broken, and I followed it to the millpond and sprang into the water to hold it. As I seized its horn the buck, which had a footing, threw me around, lacerating my left hand considerably. For a time my life was in peril from the wild animal, but I struggled and finally used my pocket knife on its throat. Some time after this episode a man named John Bos shot and wounded a big buck near our home. It being night, he came to the house for assistance, and father and I went out. The dogs reached the buck, which charged on them, and as it was seized by the nose by one of them father and I caught the buck's hind feet. It kicked us free, and I had a close call from being severely if not fatally hurt; but we returned to the attack, and finally secured the game.
As time went on the older people in our neighborhood took interest in the Mormon Elders, and some of them joined the new Church, while others became very intolerant and hostile. My parents and my eldest brother and sister united with the Mormons; yet I held back, for though fully in sympathy with what my relatives had done I did not consider myself worthy to join, for I thought that to be a church member I must have some great experience and see great lights, such as I had heard people testify of. Thus I stayed out and watched developments.
Finally, in July, 1844, the news reached us that the Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum, the Patriarch, had been assassinated in Carthage jail by a mob; also, that the Mormons had been ordered to leave the state, and were going either to the Rocky Mountains, California, or Vancouver Island. In fact, there were many kinds of rumors afloat, and there was great excitement.
In the fall of 1845 permission was given me to go to a river town five miles from home, to work at a slaughter and packing house, where my cousin, Homer Jackson, and I got employment that season. We heard that the Mormons were going to start west the next spring—in fact, their purpose was a topic of frequent conversation. We returned home in the latter part of January, 1846, and soon learned that the Church leaders were leaving Nauvoo for a new home in the unknown western wilds, and that every true Mormon was expected to join them as soon as possible.
Shortly after this, father called a family meeting to consider what to do. It was a great venture to start out with a large family on a journey of a thousand miles or more into an unknown wilderness, among savage tribes; so after long discussion of the matter, it was decided to be too great an undertaking at that particular time. It was regarded as inadvisable to take the chances of starving to death in the wilderness. Besides, property was very low, and it was folly to sell out a good home at so great a sacrifice as seemed necessary.
When this decision was reached, father turned to me and said: "Well, Jimmy, what do you think about it?" I answered that where the Mormons went I would go, and where they died I would die. This was the first time I had been asked a question, and as I was not a member of the Church my reply surprised the others. Being inquired of as to how I would go, I suggested that perhaps someone wanted a teamster, or maybe there was some widow who would take a boy for his labor in return for food and clothing. Father asked if I would leave the family and go out west and starve; and he suggested that as I did not belong to the Mormons they would not have me. To this I said I would join them, and that my mind was made up to go with the Mormons at all hazards. Then father ordered me to keep quiet, saying he would thrash me if I talked of leaving home. This closed the discussion, for in those days thrashing was the great panacea for disobedience, whether at home or in the school room. But that threat clinched my resolve to go with the Mormons even at the risk of life, for I was thoroughly satisfied of the justice of their cause.
I said no more then, but at the first opportunity told my mother that soon I would come up missing, as I was going with the Mormons, and should hide if searched for, if I had to go among the Indians. Mother said I would starve, but my reply was that I could live on what others did. My mother was convinced that I would go, and her mother's heart was as so touched that she could not withhold my secret from my father, who believed, too, that I would do as I had said.
One evening, soon afterward, I overheard them talking of the matter. Father said it would break up the family if they did not move west, for Jim certainly would go; they were satisfied that the Mormon doctrines were true, and thought that perhaps they had better make an effort to sell out and move. My heart was filled with joy at these words.
When morning came, father set out to buy oxen, and was successful. He also sold his farm but reserved the crop, as he had to wait till after harvest for part of his pay for the land. He thought that by fitting out two good teams, and providing wagons and tools, he and Alexander Stephens (mother's brother) and two of his sisters (old maids), and myself could go out into Iowa, where we could put in some corn and build a cabin or two. Then my uncle and I could do the rest while father returned, took care of the harvest, and brought up the family, when we would follow the Church as best we could until a resting place was found.
The way now seemed open. My father felt encouraged, and all went well until a few days before the time for starting, when I was stricken down with fever and ague, and shook or chilled every other day till the first of May, at which time all was ready for moving. Efforts were made to persuade me that I could not stand the journey, but should allow one of the other boys to go in my stead. But I could not see it in that light. While father was talking of the matter to mother I overheard him say, "We will have to let James go, for he will not be satisfied without, but he will get enough of it when he has had a few days, and has camped out and shaken a few times with the ague." I thought to myself, "You are mistaken, father, for I would rather die than be left behind."
CHAPTER III.
START FOR NAUVOO—TAKEN SEVERELY ILL—THE LORD ANSWERS MY PRAYER FOR RELIEF—PASS THROUGH CARTHAGE—IN NAUVOO "THE BEAUTIFUL," BUT ALMOST DESERTED CITY—SCENE ON THE IOWA SHORE—CROSS THE MISSISSIPPI—CURIOUS MAKE-UP OF THE EXILES' TEAMS—THE BAD ROADS—STUCK IN THE MUD—REPAIRING CAMPS—GOOD ORDER MAINTAINED—UNNECESSARY KILLING OF GAME FORBIDDEN—REACH GRAND RIVER AND PUT IN A CROP—LEARN OF THE CALL FOR THE MORMON BATTALION—APOSTLES AS RECRUITING OFFICERS—CALL FOR VOLUNTEERS—RESPONSE BY THE CAMP—RECEIVED INTO THE CHURCH BY BAPTISM—FILLED WITH THE LOVE OF THE GOSPEL—GET THE SPIRIT TO ENLIST—CONSULT WITH MY RELATIVES AND EZRA T. BENSON—AN ELDER'S PROMISE—JOIN THE MORMON BATTALION.
MAY 1st, 1846, was a pleasant day, and we made our start for Nauvoo, passing through Versailles to a point some ten miles from home to the first night's camp. I was encouraged to think I had kept so well, but about ten o'clock the second day I began to shake, and my teeth fairly to crack. I prayed earnestly to the Lord to heal me. I was quite weak, and all thought me very sick. But that was the last "shake" I had, for I began to get well from that time.
It was on May 4th, I believe, that we reached Nauvoo, having passed through Mount Sterling, the county seat of Brown County, also through Carthage, where the Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother the Patriarch Hyrum Smith had been assassinated. We found the roads so muddy and such hard traveling that we did not make more than fifteen miles a day. When we came in sight of the Temple at Nauvoo our hearts were filled with mingled joy and sorrow—joy that we had seen the Temple of the Lord, and sorrow that the Saints had been so cruelly driven from it.
As we passed through the city we saw many houses which had been abandoned—indeed, the city itself seemed almost deserted. At some of the houses stood covered wagons, into which people were packing goods preparatory to their flight into the wilderness, they knew not where.
Looking westward across the great Mississippi River, we saw long trains of wagons strung out over the high rolling prairie. The country was new, and the roads muddy, so we rested three or four days, visiting the Temple and viewing the city that was beautiful for situation, but now was left with few inhabitants. Everything in and about the city that formerly hummed with industry and life was now lonely, saddened, and forlorn, and silent but for the preparations for flight by the remnant therein.
About the 8th of May we crossed the great "father of waters" and joined the "rolling kingdom" on its westward journey. We found friends and acquaintances, made up a company of our own, and passed and were repassed on the trip. Climbing an eminence from which we looked east and west, covered wagons could be seen as far as the eye could reach. The teams were made up of oxen, milch cows, two-year-old steers and heifers, and very few horses and mules. The teamsters were of both sexes, and comprised young and old. The people who could walk did so, and many were engaged in driving loose stock.
Hundreds of teams stuck in the mud, and we had to double-up and help one another out. Many times we had to wade in mud half to our knees and lift our wagons out of the mire. In this the women not infrequently would join their husbands and sons, and the old adage came true in numerous instances—women for a dead lift; when they plunged into the mud and put their shoulders to the wheels the men were urged to do double effort, and the wagon always rolled out and onward, at the rate of twelve to fifteen miles per day.
At every creek we found campers, some repairing wagons, yokes, chains, etc., doctoring sick cattle, washing clothes, or helping forward friends whose teams were weak. In all this there was excellent order, for the camps were organized in a general way by tens, fifties and hundreds. Peace and harmony prevailed all along the line. Evening prayers were attended to in each camp. There was much singing, mostly of sacred hymns or sentimental songs; and from no quarter could coarse songs be heard. Sometimes the camp would meet in a sociable dance in the evenings, to drive dull care away; and then there always was good order and the most perfect friendship and peace.
The camps were instructed not to kill game of any kind to waste its flesh; they were not even to kill a snake on the road, for it was their calling to establish peace on earth, and good will toward man and beast. Thus all went on in peace and order.
At one of the headwaters of the Grand River, Iowa, we found some hundreds of people putting in gardens and field crops (corn and potatoes). A few cabins had been built, so father and our party decided to stop there. We put in a few acres of corn and garden stuff, then father returned to Illinois to bring up the rest of the family, leaving my Uncle Alexander Stephens and myself to look after the crop and stock, which we did faithfully.
About the 6th of July we heard that President Young and several of the Twelve Apostles had returned from the most advanced companies, and that there would be a meeting held at the white oak grove—the usual place of meeting—the next day. There was also a rumor in camp that a government recruiting officer had come to enlist volunteers, for the United States had declared war against Mexico.
Of course this latter tidings was a great surprise, as the Mormons had been denied protection against mob violence and had been forced beyond the borders of civilization in the United States, and our camps were stretched out in an Indian country, from the Mississippi River to the Missouri. Surprised as we were at the government's demand, we were still more so to think that our leaders would entertain for a moment the idea of encouraging compliance therewith. Yet rumor said that President Young and the prominent men with him had come as recruiting officers as well.
All who could be spared from the tents went eagerly to the White Oak grove, and there learned that the rumors were true. The United States government demanded that a battalion of five hundred men be raised by the Mormon Church, then fleeing from mob violence for the want of protection by that government whose right and duty it was to protect them. The men of the moving camp were required to leave their families in the wilderness, almost unprotected, and go to a foreign land to fight their country's battles.
But wonders never cease. The leading men among the Mormons—Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, and others of the Twelve Apostles—stood before the people and called for volunteers to engage in the Mexican war, saying that the five hundred men must be raised if it took the whole strength of the camp to do it. If the young men would not enlist, the middle-aged and old men would, said President Young; the demand of our country should be met if it took the Twelve Apostles and the High Priests.
At the close of the meeting there were many who were enthused, while others appeared confused and did not seem to catch the spirit of the matter. I was not yet a member of the Church, but all the old stories of the war of the Revolution and that of 1812, with the later Black Hawk Indian wars, brightened in my memory so that the spirit of the patriots awoke within me, and although I was averse to war and bloodshed, I had a desire to serve my country in any legitimate way. Yet I felt that, as I was under age, and, as my Uncle Alexander Stephens had decided to enlist, the responsibility of my father's affairs now rested on me.
My uncle and I were standing by the roadside talking over the situation, when along came Ezra T. Benson, who had been recently selected as one of the Twelve Apostles; there also came Richmond Louder, one of my associates from boyhood, and Matthew Caldwell. Richmond Louder and I had talked previously of being baptized together. He said they were going down to attend to that sacred ordinance, and invited me to accompany them, which I did gladly. We went to the south fork of the Grand River, and with Uncle A. Stephens as a witness were baptized. This was on the 7th of July, 1846. Then we went to the house of General Charles C. Rich, where we were confirmed, I think under the hands of Elders Willard Richards and Ezra T. Benson, in the presence of President Brigham Young and others of the Twelve Apostles.
This done, the happiest feeling of my life came over me. I thought I would to God that all the inhabitants of the earth could experience what I had done as a witness of the Gospel. It seemed to me that, if they could see and feel as I did, the whole of humankind would join with us in one grand brotherhood, and the universe would be prepared for the great Millennial morn.
When we returned to camp, my aunts partook of the same feeling that had filled me. Then I got the spirit to enlist, and after a short consultation with those most concerned they advised me to lay the matter before Ezra T. Benson. Accordingly, the next morning Uncle A. Stephens and I went over to the grove. I told the Elder my feelings, and the responsibilities left upon me by my father. Elder Benson said the Spirit's promptings to me were right, and I had started right. He told me to go on, saying I would be blessed, my father would find no fault with me, his business would not suffer, and I would never be sorry for the action I had taken or for my enlistment. Every word he said to me has been fulfilled to the very letter.
Uncle Alexander Stephens and I then went to a tent where men were giving in their names as volunteers. We handed in our names, and were enrolled as members of the historic Mormon Battalion.
CHAPTER IV.
START FOR THE BATTALION RENDEZVOUS—A JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP—IN THE MORMONS' CAMP ON THE MISSOURI RIVER—FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE ARMY—BLESSED BY APOSTLES—PROPHETIC ADDRESS BY PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG—THE BATTALION STARTS ON ITS LONG JOURNEY—DOING CAMP DUTY—HEAVY STORMS AND INSUFFICIENT RATIONS—HARD EXPERIENCES—AT FORT LEAVENWORTH—MEXICAN MULES AS A CURE FOR EGOTISM—COLONEL ALLEN TAKEN ILL—ON THE SANTA FE ROAD—SUFFERING FROM THIRST—SICKNESS AMONG THE TROOPS—DR. G.B. SANDERSON, A TYRANNICAL QUACK—ARMY MERCHANTS—ORDER OF MARCHING.
IT was about one o'clock in the afternoon of July 9 when we bade our friends an affectionate farewell, and started on what we understood to be a journey of one hundred and thirty-eight miles, to join the army of the United States at our country's call. We had provisions enough put up to last us on our trip. The night previous our old clothes had received the necessary repairs. Our preparations were hasty and incomplete, for we had been told (by an unauthorized person, as we afterwards learned) that when we got to Sarpy's Point, on the Missouri River, we would draw uniforms, clothing, blankets, and rations, and would have to cast aside our old clothes.
Our initial trip was begun without a blanket to wrap ourselves in, as we thought we could find shelter in the camps along the line of march. But in this we were mistaken, for everybody seemed to have all they could do to shelter their own. The first night we camped on the bank of a small stream, where we fell in with twelve or fifteen other volunteers who had not so much as a bit of bread, but plenty of assurance in asking for what others had. We divided with them, then scraped what leaves we could and laid down thereon, with a chunk of wood for our pillow. Next morning we divided our last morsel of food with what we learned later were the very roughest element of the battalion.
For five days we journeyed, much of the time in heavy rain and deep mud, sleeping on the wet ground without blankets or other kind of bedding, and living on elm bark and occasionally a very small ration of buttermilk handed to us by humane sisters as we passed their tents. We thought our experience was pretty rough, but I do not remember that I heard murmuring from the lips of anyone, for we felt that we were in the service of God and our country.
When we reached the Missouri River we found that some four hundred men had rendezvoused there. In the camps of the Latter-day Saints, close by, there were some thousands of men, women and children; a brush bowery had been erected, where the people met for religious worship. We soon found friends who welcomed us to camp, and we were invited to a social dance and farewell party. We had excellent music, the best dinner that the country could afford, and, above all, a spirit of brotherly love and union that I have never seen surpassed. With all on the altar of sacrifice for God and His kingdom and for our country, it seemed that everything and everybody looked to the accomplishment of one grand, common cause, not a dissenting voice being heard from anyone.
July 16, 1846, we were mustered into the service of the United States, and, under command of Col. James Allen, marched down the bluffs to the Missouri bottoms, where we camped in a cottonwood grove. Some flour and other provisions were issued to us, and we peeled the bark off a tree for a bread tray or kneading trough. Some rolled their dough around sticks and stuck or held it before the fire, and others baked their bread in the ashes; for we had not yet drawn any camp equipage. We received one blanket apiece, and had that charged up, the amount to be taken out of our pay.
I am not writing a history of the Mormon Battalion, but am relating my individual experiences in that detachment of the United States army, as I recollect them; so it will not be expected of me to tell much of what others saw, or to narrate events as they remember them, but as they impressed themselves upon my mind at the time of occurrence.
Just before our last farewell to friends at the Missouri River, and preparatory to taking up our line of march, we were formed into a hollow square, and President Brigham Young, with Heber C. Kimball and others of the Apostles, came to our camp, rode into the square, and gave us parting blessings and instructions. The words of President Young, as they fastened themselves upon my memory, were in substance as follows: "Now, brethren, you are going as soldiers at your country's call. You will travel in a foreign land, in an enemy's country; and if you will live your religion, obey your officers, attend to your prayers, and as you travel in an enemy's land, hold sacred the property of the people, never taking anything that does not belong to you only in case of starvation; though you may be traveling in an enemy's country, do not disturb fruit orchards or chicken coops or beehives, do not take anything but what you pay for—although it is customary for soldiers to plunder their enemies in time of war, it is wrong—always spare life when possible; if you obey this counsel, attending to your prayers to the Lord, I promise you in the name of the Lord God of Israel that not one soul of you shall fall by the hands of the enemy. You will pass over battlefields; battles will be fought in your front and in your rear, on your right hand and on your left, and your enemies shall flee before you. Your names shall be held in honorable remembrance to the latest generation."
Heber C. Kimball and other prominent men of the Church confirmed what President Young had said, and all bade us an affectionate farewell, with "God bless you and spare your lives."
Thus we set out in good cheer on our journey of more than two thousand miles in a section of the continent wholly unknown to us.
In the month of July, from about the 20th, we passed down through the towns and villages along the river, for two hundred miles, to Fort Leavenworth. The heat was excessive, and the roads dusty, when we started out. A great part of the way we had only a small ration of food, for it did not seem to be in the country, and we suffered much from want. We took regular turns in standing guard around the camp and in herding the stock. Heavy rains came on, and for several days we pressed forward amid such terrible storms as I never had experienced before. With less than half rations, and that badly or insufficiently cooked, from lack of proper utensils and experience, and having to lie on the ground without any bedding save one blanket each, it is a wonder the entire camp were not down sick instead of a few. But with all this hardship there were no desertions and few complaints. Everything seemed to move harmoniously among the men.
The command crossed the river at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, and soon afterwards we drew a tent to each mess of six men. This afforded us great relief at nights, protecting us from the dews and rain; but in the daytime the whiteness of the tents seemed to intensify the heat so that there was no comfort in them. While at Fort Leavenworth we washed our old clothing and made ourselves as comfortable as possible. Soon we drew camp equipage and rations from the government. We got flintlock muskets, and accoutrements consisting of bayonets, cartridge-boxes, straps and belts, canteens, haversacks, etc., also a knapsack each. We drew our first pay, forty-two dollars each, sent part of it to our families, and fitted ourselves out with new clothes and shoes.
With all the paraphernalia of soldiers, we seemed so burdened as to be able neither to run nor to fight. Then to be obliged to travel all day under a broiling sun, or in driving rain or fierce winds, across sandy deserts and over trackless mountains, going sometimes sixty to ninety miles without water, in an enemy's country—kind reader, you may picture such scenes in your imagination, but it is impossible for you to realize the conditions except by actual experience therein. It is equally impossible for me to find language to describe fitly the situation at that time at the United States military post of Fort Leavenworth.
The place being an outfitting station for United States forces in the war with Mexico, all was bustle and activity; steamboats were unloading material, and teams filled the streets; many of the new recruits were very rough indeed, and drinking and fighting seemed to be their pastime; myself and companions were amazed and shocked at the profane and vulgar language and vile actions that we were compelled to listen to and witness; with all else, squads of soldiers were being drilled, the bugle sound was frequent, as were also the beating of the drum and the playing of the fife; everywhere the men were preparing for victory or death, and many were so reckless they did not seem to care which came.
As our battalion was preparing quietly for the great march before us, a band of very small Mexican mules was brought in to be used as teams in our transportation department. The animals were unaccustomed to harness, and very wild, so there was a detail of men from each company assigned to do the harnessing. It fell to my lot to engage in the work, and great was my surprise to see one of those little mules dragging three to five men about the yards. I thought I was able to handle one of the little long-eared animals myself, but had the conceit taken out of me in quick order by having my hands burned with the rope, as I was jerked and dragged about in fertilizer in the yards—there being an abundance there. But we accomplished our work, with some sport and considerable cost to our patience and muscular energy.
From the 10th to the 15th of August, companies A, B, and C moved out on the Santa Fe road, and in two or three days were followed by companies D and E. Our esteemed colonel, James Allen, having been taken ill, ordered Captain Jefferson Hunt of company A to take command until the colonel should recover and settle up the business of outfitting the battalion.
Our route lay over rolling hills, through some timbered country and some prairie. The weather was warm, and there was much suffering, especially from lack of drinking water, this being scarce. The sick felt the hardship particularly, and there was quite a number down with chills and fever; such water as was obtainable was of poor quality, warm and unhealthy, and added to the number of the sick.
Each company had a large wagon and three or four yoke of oxen to haul the tents and camp equipage, and one issue of rations, I think it was for one week. The government had assigned a doctor to our command, George B. Sanderson of Platte County, Missouri. He proved to be so cruel and tyrannical as to incur the ill-will of every man in the command. He had immediate charge of the hospital wagons, and no matter how ill a man was, he was not allowed to ride in the company's wagon until he had reported to this cruel quack, who had to be honored with the title of physician and surgeon. With his permission a man was allowed to crawl into his company's wagon, which was filled nearly to the bows with tents and other camp equipage. Sometimes there would be five or six crowded in together, some shaking with ague and others burning with fever. Our company wagon was called the Gray Eagle; John Gilbert was the teamster, and did all in his power to favor those of his comrades who deserved it.
Besides the company and hospital wagons, there were sutlers' or merchants' wagons—speculators that are permitted to follow the army for what they can make off the troops. They carry in stock such things as they know from experience the soldier most needs, and many luxuries; they had almost everything to entice the famishing soldier, who had to stand guard over them and their stores. Many times, through hardships, we seemed compelled to patronize them. Our suffering was their opportunity, and they were not slow to take advantage of it. Their prices were enormous, and their bills never failed to reach the paymaster by each payday; after these were paid, the soldier came in for the balance, if there was any. Some were very unfortunate through sickness, and had to patronize the sutler, or merchant; others were unwise in their purchases; and thus the eight dollars a month wages often was spent before it was earned.
Our commissary and ammunition department included over a hundred wagons; the three or four pieces of artillery followed close in our rear, in charge of a wagonmaster and assistants.
The usual order of marching, as I remember it, was: an advance guard; then the colonel and his staff; next came the body of the command; then a rearguard, the baggage and hospital wagons, etc. Only on special occasions was the main body of the battalion permitted to march at will, as long as it remained between the front and rear guards. When the country was specially rough, and roads had to be made, the road hands, or, in military language, the sappers and miners, were allowed extra rations, and had to start out very early with the advance guard.
CHAPTER V.
CROSSING OF THE KAW RIVER—INDIAN FARMERS—FIERCE STORM ON STONE COAL CREEK—CROSSING A CREEK WITH PRECIPITOUS BANKS—RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY—WAGONLOAD OF SICK UPSET IN A STREAM—SAD NEWS OF COL. ALLEN'S DEATH—DISPUTE OVER HIS SUCCESSOR—MILITARY RULES DISREGARDED IN SETTLING THE QUESTION—TROOPS DISSATISFIED—SICKNESS IN CAMP—HARSHNESS OF THE NEW COMMANDER, LIEUTENANT COLONEL SMITH—BRUTALITY OF THE DOCTOR—DOSES OF OBJECTIONABLE MEDICINE IN AN OLD IRON SPOON—IN THE COMANCHE INDIAN COUNTRY—ABUSE FROM LIEUTENANT COLONEL SMITH—SCARCITY OF FUEL—BUFFALO CHIPS—COOKING FOOD UNDER GREAT DIFFICULTIES—INCREASE OF SICKNESS—UP THE GRAND VALLEY OF THE ARKANSAS—DETACHMENT OF SICK SENT TO PUEBLO—MIRAGES—HERDS OF BUFFALO—ON THE SICK LIST—REACH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—PREHISTORIC RUINS—IN MEXICAN VILLAGES—ARRIVAL AT SANTA FE.
WE crossed the Kaw River about the 17th of August, being ferried over in flat boats by some half civilized Delaware and Shawnee Indians. Where we crossed the river it was from three to four hundred yards wide. The country in the neighborhood seemed to be well adapted to farming. The Indians had good crops of corn and watermelons, and knew as well as white men how to charge for them. These Indians were an intelligent-looking people, having log cabins for dwellings.
From the Kaw we traveled to Spring Creek, over a beautiful country, and there joined the companies that had preceded us. We met with rainstorms that made it very disagreeable for us at night, when two of us would spread one blanket and lie down on it. It would wet through at once; and though we had tents over us, we often slept on the wet ground, in wet clothes.
Moving onward to Stone Coal Creek, we there endured one of the severest storms of wind and rain that any of us ever had experienced. Nearly every tent was blown down; several government wagons were overturned, and others were sent rolling before the wind as though they were express or stage coaches; many men fell on their faces and held to the shrubbery to avoid being carried away by the violence of the hurricane, while others not so fortunate as to be able to catch hold of a shrub were driven some rods before the blast. Some were bruised and others badly frightened, but none received serious injury; and although everybody was thoroughly soaked, not even the sick seemed to be unfavorably affected in health by their experience.
The storm over and our clothing dried, we resumed our march. Coming to a deep creek with precipitous banks, we had to hold the wagons back with ropes and let them down gradually to the bed of the stream; then a number of men with ropes, on the opposite side, assisted the teams in drawing the wagons up the steep bank. We passed over some very fine land to a place we named Allen's Grove, and camped. Next day we came to the ruins of a city of the dim, distant past; the stone walls were yet visible to the traveler. That night we rested on Beaver Creek. On the 25th or 26th, while traveling through a beautiful country of rich soil, one wagon with five or six people was upset into a creek, and the occupants received a dangerous ducking, though I do not recall any serious results following.
It was on this day that a messenger from Fort Leavenworth overtook us, bringing the sorrowful news of the death of our esteemed commander, Colonel James Allen. It was a sad blow to us, for all had learned to respect, and, indeed, even to love him. Yet I have felt sometimes that it was a kind providence to him that he was taken from us, for his nature was too kind and sympathetic to have forced his men through what the Mormon Battalion had to endure before reaching its destination.
Colonel Allen's death left a vacancy in the command that was not difficult to fill according to military rules, as the next officer in rank should have occupied his place. But plain as is the military law on the subject, there arose a dispute, and much feeling was worked up. The council of officers decided that, as Captain Jefferson Hunt of company A had been placed in charge by Colonel Allen till the latter should rejoin the command, he should continue in that position. Accordingly, he led the battalion to Council Grove, where it was learned that Lieutenant Colonel Smith was on the way, intending to assume command. Thus the quiet of the camp was again disturbed, and much feeling manifested. There were many warm discussions between the officers and among the soldiers as well.
It was at Council Grove that Lieutenant Colonel Smith, Major Walker, and G. B. Sanderson overtook us. The question of command was further discussed, Captain Hunt standing up for his rights. But in the council, Captain Nelson Higgins of Company D (my company) moved that Smith should be recognized as the commanding officer; this was seconded by Captain Davis of Company E; all the officers but three, viz.: Laron Clark, Samuel Gully, and Wesley W. Willis, voted for the motion, and the question was settled. Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith took command, to the disgust of the soldiers, a large majority of whom, if not all, were quite dissatisfied. Next day we reached Diamond Springs, where the battalion was inspected by Lieutenant Colonel Smith.
At this time there was much sickness in camp, chills and fever and mumps. This condition was produced by frequent changes of drinking water, and by poorly-cooked food, as many times we had to depend on dry weeds for fuel. When a man became sick, it had been the custom for him to crawl into the company wagon. Our new commander soon dropped on the kindness of the teamster, and put an end to it without mercy. The commander was so rough and ungentle, and had so much pomposity and assurance, that the whole command was disgusted, and almost all were angry. He ordered the sick out of the wagons, and directed that before they could ride they must be reported by the doctor as unable to walk, and had to take a dose of the doctor's drugs from his old rusty spoon. We soon began to realize that we had fallen into bad hands.
The doctor often talked to the men as though they were brutes. He was very unfeeling, and the men would not respond to his sick call ("Jim along, Josey") when it was possible for them to walk alone. When we stopped he would sit in front of his tent with his book on his knee, a long chest of medicine before him, a colored man for his body servant, and a hospital steward standing in front of the wagon. At sick call, everyone who could not walk had to be taken before the doctor's tent, and there be seated or laid down, sometimes on the wet ground, then, like going to a mill, wait for his grist, or dose of calomel. There was not much chance to miss it, for, when a man's name was called and responded to, the hospital steward was ordered to give him such and such a dose, and the old iron spoon, with its contents of we knew not what, was presented in the presence of the doctor. Under these circumstances we began to feel at least the rigors of military rule.
About this time we entered the Comanche Indian country, and on September 2 camped on Cottonwood Creek. The Indians were said to be very hostile, yet we had no trouble with them. I think it was here that we began to see signs of buffalo, and the prairie dog villages. Timber was very scarce, and the country was more uninviting than that we had passed over.
Shortly after Lieutenant Colonel Smith took command we were drawn up in line, and some military laws were read to us. At the end of almost every sentence there was the word death, as punishment for infraction of the law. We were then talked to in a most offensive and domineering manner, until some of us began to wonder what we had done to merit such severity and downright abuse.
We were tired and footsore, and suffered much from lack of water. The country showed such a sameness of forbidding features that the journey became very monotonous and tiresome. Fuel was so scarce that we had to dig trenches two or three feet long, and eight or ten inches wide and a foot deep, fill these with dry grass, and start a fire and pile on buffalo chips, with which to do our cooking. The result was our food often was half raw and badly smoked, and many of the men were brought down with severe diarrheal complaints. As many had traveled the road in advance of us, even buffalo chips for fuel were so scarce that often we had to go for miles to gather them.
When we reached Pawnee Fork we found it a very difficult stream to cross. The wagons had to be let down the steep bank with ropes, by the men, and had to be taken up the opposite bank in the same manner.
The events narrated here will indicate that it is not all of a soldier's duty when on a long march to tramp all day with musket and accoutrements and knapsack, but the soldier on such a journey as we had must push and pull wagons up hill, hold them back when going down hill, haul them through deep sands, and help them and the teams out of quicksands; he must stand guard and night-herd stock; must press on, over rough or smooth ground, rain or shine; must wade rivers, and when crossing streams is not allowed to take off his clothing, but has to plunge into the water, and then travel on in wet clothes; besides, there are many other experiences that are far from pleasant.
We pushed along the best we could to the Arkansas River, through a very uninviting country, in which we began to find brackish water and saleratus. We traveled up the broad river bottoms of the Arkansas eighty to one hundred miles, the water being poor and unhealthy. Many were added to the corps of "Jim along, Joseys," and had to be led or carried by their comrades to the unfeeling doctor, many times to be cursed at by him, and then to take a dose from his nauseating spoon. Quite a number of the sick were badly salivated by the drugs given them.
About September 15 or 16, we crossed the river where the roads fork, one going toward Fort Benton, and the other leading to Santa Fe. There we parted with Captain Nelson Higgins, he having been detailed to take a small squad of men and the families to a Spanish town called Pueblo, some hundred miles away, there to winter. Meanwhile, we pushed our way over barren plains and sandy deserts to the Cimmaron River. We saw deceptive rivers, ponds and lakes; we chased after them for miles sometimes, till we found that, like jack o' lantern or will o' the wisp, we could not get nearer to them. Finally we learned that they were mirages—a peculiar reflection of the sun upon the great plains or sandy deserts. It seemed impossible for the inexperienced to discern the difference between the mirage and a body of real water.
In this barren country we saw immense herds of buffalo; in our long march we came to ponds of water made perfectly filthy by the buffalo, and rendered offensive by the broiling hot sun, the liquid being almost as thick as gruel; but we were so terribly famished with thirst that we were glad to get even such foul water.
When the Cimmaron River was reached, there was good water, and good feed for our stock, but our rations were reduced one-third, and we were pretty well worn down.
On the 18th or 19th of September it was my place to be on guard. I had stood the journey very well, but by this time had become affected by the alkali, and that day was so badly afflicted with diarrhea as to be almost unable to drag myself into camp. But rather than march to "Jim along, Josey," I took my place on guard. That night there came on one of the most terrible storms I ever have experienced. I had to brace myself with my musket to stand. From that date I have never been free from pain in the right limb, near the instep, caused by the severe exposure. Next day it became necessary to go on the sick list, to remain several days.
About the 23rd we began to come to timber in the hills, and having been for nine or ten days with nothing but grass and buffalo chips for fuel, we were in a situation to appreciate the change. Soon we were among the sandhills, where traveling was hard, and passed the Rabbit Ears (Black Peak and Agua Fria Peak), two high mountain peaks. In this mountainous region we found traces of the inhabitants of a past age, in old stone walls and in numerous' irrigation canals long since dry.
On the 2nd or 3rd of October we came to the Red River. The mountain air was bracing, but there were many men who yet remained sick. About this time the command was culled over by Lieutenant Colonel Smith and the doctor, and all who were considered able to stand a forced march to Santa Fe were ordered forward on the double quick.
The sick men were left to take care of themselves as best they could, with the broken down teams of the command to look after. My lot was still with the invalids, and of course I had to remain. Yet we were only about two days behind the strong men who left us in the mountains; we reached Santa Fe on October 12th, having passed through several Mexican villages, the houses of which were low and flat-roofed, and covered principally with cement and tile. We saw the very small Mexican sheep and goats, the people milking the latter, by sitting at the back end, in an earthen pot, and there milking regardless of anything that might drop into the vessel intended for milk only.
From the appearance of Santa Fe we had no reason to doubt that it was between three and four hundred years old; for it looked at least that far behind the times. Mexicans and Indians, badly mixed, made up the population. Their costume, manners, habits, and in fact everything, were both strange and novel to us, and of course were quite an attraction. Many of the people looked on us with suspicion, and if it had been in their power no doubt they would have given us a warm reception; others appeared to be pleased, doubtless because it made trade better for them, and on that account they seemed very friendly. They brought into camp, for sale, many articles of food; the strongest of these were red pepper pies, the pepper-pods as large as a teacup, and onions (savoyas) as large as saucers, to be eaten raw like turnips.
A few days' rest and change of food at Santa Fe, and the command was ready to resume its arduous march.
CHAPTER VI.
EXEMPLAR'S CONDUCT OF THE MORMON TROOPS—LIEUTENANT COLONEL P. ST. GEORGE COOKE ARRIVES AND ASSUMES COMMAND—A WELCOME CHANGE—ANOTHER DETACHMENT OP SICK, ALSO THE LAUNDRESSES, SENT TO PUEBLO—SELECTING MEN TO CONTINUE THE JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA—REDUCING THE BAGGAGE—DIFFICULTIES OF THE 1,100 MILES JOURNEY AHEAD—POOR EQUIPMENT THEREFOR—LEAVE SANTA FE—ROADS OF HEAVY SAND—ON ONE-THIRD RATIONS—HARDSHIPS INCREASE—GALLED FEET AND GNAWING STOMACHS—MORE SICK MEN FOR PUEBLO—LEAVING THE LAST WAGONS—MULES AND OXEN IN A PACK TRAIN—IN AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY—HUNTING A PASS OVER THE MOUNTAINS—ALARM OF AN ENEMY—A BEAVER DAM—CROSSING THE RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE—GREAT SUFFERING AMONG THE TROOPS.
WHILE we were in Santa Fe, Colonel Sterling Price came in with his cavalry command, and soon the town prison was filled with them, so that it became necessary for a guard from the Mormon Battalion to be posted at the prison. I do not recall that any of our command was put into the prison, though it is possible one or two might have been, for a few of them got rather too much wine; but it was a very few who acted that way. There were many invalids of other commands left to garrison Santa Fe, and they caused considerable disturbance, many of them getting into prison.
It seems that word had gone ahead to the Mexican town that the Mormons were a very hard class of outlaws, consequently at first we were looked upon as "toughs" of the very worst kind. But when the people had an opportunity to see our superior conduct in contrast with that of the other troops, they realized the true situation, and male and female thronged our camp in friendly visit.
It was on October 13, 1846, that Lieutenant Colonel P. St. George Cooke assumed command of the Mormon Battalion, having been designated for that purpose, and by this proceeding we were liberated from the little tyrant Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith.
By order of Colonel Cooke, Captain James Brown of Company C took command of all the sick that were unable to continue the journey to California; also of most of the laundresses, and a few able-bodied men, with directions to go north to Pueblo, and join Captain Higgins. In order to determine who were not able to continue the march to California, we were drawn up in line, and the officers and Dr. Sanderson inspected the whole command. The doctor scrutinized every one of us, and when he said a man was not able to go, his name was added to Captain Brown's detachment, whether the man liked it or not; and when the doctor said a man could make the trip, that settled the matter. The operation was much like a cooper culling stave timber, or a butcher separating the lean from the fat sheep.
My desire was very strong to continue the overland journey, and when the doctor neared me, I braced up and tried to look brave and hardy. To the doctor's inquiry, "How do you feel?" my answer was, "First rate." He looked at me suspiciously and said, "You look d—d pale and weak," then passed on, and I was greatly relieved at having gone safely through the inspection.
In order No. 8, Colonel Cooke called the particular attention of the company commanders to the necessity of reducing baggage as much as possible; that means for transportation were very deficient; that the road was almost impracticable, much of it being in deep sand, and how soon we would have to abandon our wagons it was impossible to ascertain; that skillets and ovens could not be taken, and but one camp-kettle to each mess of ten men.
Colonel Cooke very properly and correctly pointed out that everything seemed to conspire to discourage the extraordinary undertaking of marching the battalion 1,100 miles, for the much greater part of the way through an unknown wilderness, without road or trail, and with a wagon train. He said the battalion was much worn by traveling on foot, marching from Nauvoo, Illinois; their clothing was very scant, there was no money to pay them, or clothing to issue; the mules were utterly broken down; the quartermaster's department was out of funds and its credit bad; animals were scarce, and those procured were inferior and deteriorating every hour from the lack of forage. All this made it necessary that such careful preparation as could be should be made in advance.
It can be easily seen from this statement that the condition and prospects of the battalion were not very encouraging; yet there were very few of the men who had the least desire to retrace their steps—they knew what they had passed through, but looking ahead they tried to hope for the best, realizing, just as they had been told, that the country through which they had to travel was an unknown region.
With the colonel's orders carried out, we got ready to move, and about the 21st of October we left Santa Fe and traveled six or eight miles to a stream called Agua Fria (cold water). Grass for animals was very short, the nights were very cold, and our road was in heavy sand almost from the start. Our advance was slow, for the best teams had been taken for extra service or express duties in other departments. Besides, there was added to our already overburdened animals the load of sacks, packsaddles, lashing-ropes, etc., necessary in the event of being compelled to abandon the wagons, so we would not be entirely without means of transportation. There was also the burden of sheep pelts and blankets to use under pack saddles, and as most of these were bought second-hand, they were well stocked with the insects commonly called "greybacks."
In a short time we drew near to the mountains, and the weather became colder. Having but one blanket each we began to use the pelts and saddle-blankets to splice out our scanty store of bedding. Thus we proceeded over sandy roads, through the towns and villages of Spaniards, Indians and Greasers—the surroundings presented being of such a sameness that the journey became very monotonous.
Soon after leaving Santa Fe our rations were reduced to one-third the regular amount allowed by law to the soldier. A detail of men was called as a substitute for mules, to move and to lighten the loads of the ammunition wagons. Each soldier was required to carry sixty-four rounds of cartridges that contained each a one-ounce ball, three buck-shot, and powder enough to send them where they should be, besides the heavy paper they were wrapped in, and extra flints for the firelock—about two hundred ounces added to the already overburdened soldier.
Now the soldier must wade the tributaries of the Rio Grande del Norte, sometimes waist deep and more, and is not allowed even to take off his shoes, or any of his wearing apparel. An officer, perched on his white mule on some point or eminence overlooking the whole command, with a hawk's eye for keen military experience, calls to this or that squad of men, with a horrid oath, as if they were brutes; often he curses the men until they long for a battle where perchance someone would remember the tyrant with an ounce ball and three buckshot. And yet, if that feeling were not quenched in the soldier's bosom it would not require an engagement with the enemy to accomplish the deed. But, praise God, that feeling quickly passed off as the men marched along, their clothes wet, and their thick soled cowhide army shoes partly filled with sand—the chafing and galling of the flesh without and the gnawing and grinding of the stomach within defied the mind to dwell upon any one subject for long at a time.
Is it any wonder that under these conditions fifty-five of our comrades wore down and collapsed so they had to go on the sick list and it became necessary for Lieutenant W. W. Willis to take command of that number of invalid soldiers, and join Captains Higgins and Brown at Pueblo? This company of sick and exhausted men left us, on their return, about the 10th or 12th of November.
About this time, the quartermaster was ordered to leave the remaining two heavy ox-wagons, while the company commanders were directed to reduce their tent-poles two-thirds; that is, to cast away all the upright poles and use muskets instead, and to put gores in the back part of the tents so they could shelter nine men in place of six; we were also to leave one-third of the campkettles.
Then came some sport in putting packs on a number of our mules and worn-out oxen. Some of these, which did not look as though they could travel a hundred miles further, when the crupper was put in place would rear up, wheel around, and kick in a most amusing style; nor did they cease until their strength failed them.
When this sport, if sport it may be called, was over we began to realize in a small degree the gravity of our situation. Our guides were "at sea," so to speak. We were in an enemy's land, with not a soul in camp who knew anything of the country. Men had been sent ahead to hunt a route for us to travel, and every time, on their return, they reported impassable barriers ahead—rough, high, steep mountains, without springs of water or creeks, or sandy plains, and barren deserts that it would be impossible to cross. In this dilemma we had to bear to the south, along the river, in hopes of finding a pass to the west.
One night, while camped near the Rio Grande del Norte, we heard a great noise as though a band of horses were crossing the river. This created quite an alarm, as there had been rumors of Mexicans revolting. For a short time it was thought it was Mexican cavalry crossing to attack us by night, but on the colonel making inquiries of the guides it was learned that the noise proceeded from beaver playing in the river. After watching and listening for a time, all settled down, contented that there was no enemy at hand.
On resuming our march next day, we passed through a grove of cottonwood trees, and saw where many of them had been cut down by the beaver. Some of the trees were two feet or more in diameter, had been cut off in long sections, and a surprisingly large dam had been constructed by the beaver across the river. This dam had caused to be formed a large pond, in which the beaver congregated at certain seasons, for sport. Thus the mystery of our midnight disturbance was solved to our satisfaction.
We passed along the sandy road to a large bend in the river, which Colonel Cooke decided was the place where we would cross the stream. He stationed himself on an abrupt point of rock, from which he could view the whole proceeding. Men were detailed from each company to follow the wagons through the river. In order to avoid a rocky ridge the stream had to be crossed twice within quarter of a mile. There were very heavy quicksands, and if the teams were allowed to stop one minute it was doubtful whether they could start again; consequently the precaution of having men close at hand was very important, though the average soldier did not understand the real reason for forcing him into the water without stripping off at least part of his raiment.
The crossing was made early in the day, and the water was very cold, as I had ample evidence, being one of those detailed to attend the wagons. Our comrades took our muskets over the point while we lifted at the wagons. As the water was waist deep, when the men would stoop to lift it would wet our clothing very nearly to the armpits; our shoes also were filled with sand.
Wet and cold, almost chilled, we continued our march through deep sands, pushing and pulling at the wagons till our clothing dried on our bodies, our shoes became so dry and hard that walking was very painful and difficult, and our feet became raw. If this had been all, we might have had less reason to complain; but when an irritated officer (not all the officers pursued such a reprehensible course, but a few of them did) swore at us as if we were brutes, when we were already burdened almost beyond endurance, it is no wonder there was an impulsive desire to retaliate. For my own part, my feelings never were so outraged, and the desire for revenge never ran so high and wild as then. But we cooled down, though our physical sufferings were not lessened; as we tramped on through the sands we became so weak it was almost impossible to keep our ankles from striking together as we walked, and our hard and dry shoetops would cut our ankles till the blood came.
CHAPTER VII.
PUSHING TO THE WEST—OVERHEARING A CONVERSATION WITH COL. COOKE—THE COLONEL FEARS THE MEN WILL STARVE—NO BERRIES, NOT EVEN BARK OF TREES, FOR FOOD—TRUE STATE OF AFFAIRS AS TO THE OUTLOOK KEPT FROM MOST OF THE TROOPS—HIDES, INTESTINES, AND EVEN SOFT EDGES OF HOOFS AND HORNS OF ANIMALS EATEN—"BIRD'S EYE SOUP."—IN A SNOWSTORM—RELICS OF ANCIENT INHABITANTS—CAMPING WITHOUT WATER—OLD SILVER AND COPPER MINES—HARDEST DAY OF THE JOURNEY—MEN APPEAR AS IF STRICKEN WITH DEATH—THE WRITER SO ILL AS TO BE UNABLE To TRAVEL LONGER, AND EXPECTS TO DIE—UNCLE ALEXANDER STEPHENS COMES WITH WATER AND REVIVES HIM—AWFUL SUFFERING IN CAMP—REPORTED SICK NEXT MORNING—BRUTAL DR. SANDERSON GIVES A DEADLY DOSE OF LAUDANUM, BUT THE WRITER VOMITS IT AFTER BEING MADE FEARFULLY SICK—IN TERRIBLE DISTRESS FOR DAYS—HEALED BY THE LAYING ON OF HANDS OF THE ELDERS OF THE CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER-DAY SAINTS.
IT was but a little while after this that we left the Rio Grande del Norte, and pressed on toward the west. One day, while passing up a brushy canyon, my place being with the advance guard, in the rear of the road hands, I had occasion to step into the brush by the roadside. While there, out of sight, Col. Cooke and staff and guides came along and stopped right opposite me, so close that I dared not move lest they should see me. As they came up, the colonel inquired of the guides if there were no fruit or berries that men could live on; the reply was, no, not a thing. They were talking about some place ahead that the guides were acquainted with. The colonel then asked if there were no trees that had bark something like elm bark, which men could live on for a few days; but the answer was that there was neither fruit, roots nor bark, that the country was a barren waste.
Upon receiving this information, the colonel exclaimed, "What can we do?" In response, the suggestion was that the guides did not know unless some of the stronger men and mules were sent on a forced march to the first place in California, where they could get a bunch of beef cattle and meet us on the desert with them. There was some further conversation, when it was ended by the colonel exclaiming, with a despairing oath, "I expect the men will starve to death!"
The deep gloom of sadness hung over those who knew of the situation. All of the men, however, were not informed of the gravity of the position we were in. At that time we were drawing less than half rations. The fresh meat we had was more like glue or jelly than beef. The plan had been adopted of slaughtering the weak cattle first, so that the stronger animals could travel faster. When an animal became too weak to hold up one end of a yoke, or to carry a packsaddle, it was slaughtered, and the flesh issued to the men. Not a scrap of the animal would be left on the ground; the hide, intestines—all was eaten; even the tender or soft edges of the hoofs and horns would be roasted, and gnawed at so long as a human being possibly could draw subsistence therefrom. Many times we were without water to wash the offal. The bones would be carried along, broken up, and boiled and re-boiled, in some instances as long as there could be seen a single "bird's eye" (the name given to solitary spots of grease that would come to the surface) of grease rise on the water; then each man was eager for his share.
Sometimes cattle became so weak that men were left with them to come up to the command after night. On one occasion, when an old ox could not be got into camp and had to be left four or five miles back, men were sent bright and early next morning, to bring him in. It snowed that night, and in camp things generally were disagreeable. The ox was brought in, slaughtered, and issued to us for rations. If any man had failed to get his share of that white ox at that time there might have been a row, but a fair distribution maintained peace. The place of our camp was called White Ox Creek, and we laid by for one day to rest and refresh ourselves.
From there we traveled over a rough country, but one that evidently had been inhabited ages ago, for we found stone walls, pottery by the acre, and old and dry canals—their former source of water having disappeared. We found in a rock a deep and large hole with water sufficient to supply the command; we secured it by drawing all night, until everything was watered. Then we moved on, and next night camped without water. We passed many old mines, supposed to be of silver and copper, and there were said to be gold mines in the vicinity. Late at night we traveled, and were on the march early the following morning. All day we pressed forward as rapidly as possible, there being no water, and late at night the command came to a place called Dry Lake.
That was the hardest day for me that came in the experience of the whole journey. I had been run down so low with a severe attack of dysentery that I could travel no longer, and laid down. My thirst was intense, and it did not seem possible that I could live till morning. It seemed that everyone was traveling as best he could, for the rearguard passed me without taking any notice. Men went by, looking like death, their mouths black, their eyes sunken till it was difficult to recognize them. Some eyes had a staring glare, which looked as if the monster death were close at hand. Yet the men staggered on, their feet hitting each other, tit for tat, as one was dragged past the other. The hopes of these men were greater than mine, for I had ceased to march. This was the first time I had felt there was little reason to hope that I would ever reach camp again, for I supposed that all the men had passed me. The sun's rays faded away on the eastern mountain tops, and the bright orb dropped beneath the western horizon. For a moment I felt that with me the vital spark would soon sink below the mortal horizon, as if to accompany the king of day.
Just when my hopes were flickering as does a candle when the wick has all but burned out, there came to my ears the sound as of the tinkling of a tin can that seemed to keep time with a soldier's step as he marched. Gradually the sound became more distinct until its approach was a certainty. Then my uncle, Alexander Stephens, came in sight. He had been left to bring up an old spotted ox which had failed, and had driven the animal into the shade of a rocky cliff, where the ox laid down, while the driver hunted around and found a dripping of water as it seeped from a crevice in the rock. He had quenched his thirst and filled his canteen, resting in the meantime, then followed on the trail, pricking the ox with his bayonet.
When Uncle Alexander Stephens came up he handed me his canteen, and the draught of water quickly revived me. I did not think myself able to rise to my feet, but with a little assistance I got up, and took hold of the packsaddle. My knapsack, musket and accoutrements were lashed to the ox, and by a final effort we reached Dry Lake camp, by halting at short intervals along the four miles we had to travel.
Wretched, wretched indeed, was the condition of the command that night. It is doubtful whether at any time in the long march the men suffered more than they did then and the forty-eight hours preceding. Next morning, at the doctor's call, many had to be helped by their comrades to the place designated for the sick.
For myself, two men sat me upon the ground, and held me up till my time came to be questioned. Dr. Sanderson called out, "What is the matter with you?" When he received the information asked for he remarked gruffly: "I've a d—d great mind not to report you sick. I never saw such a d—d set of men in my life. They will not report till d—d nigh dead." I answered that it did not matter to me whether he entered me on the sick list or not, for I could not walk. At this he said sharply. "Not a d—d word out of you or I'll make you walk."
Then he ordered the steward to give me a dose of castor oil and laudanum, stating the quantity. The steward, William Spencer, said, "Isn't it a rather heavy dose?" to which the doctor responded with a curse, telling him to do as he was ordered. At that the dose was poured into a teacup, filling it half full. It was given to me, the steward saying in a low tone of voice. "If you do not throw it up it will kill you." I was assisted back to the company's wagon, and soon vomited the medicine, but not until it had changed my countenance so much that the lieutenant of my company, Cyrus Canfield, did not know me. He came and ordered me out of the wagon, telling me to go to my own company. It was sometime before he could be convinced who I really was, then remarked that I looked so near dead that he could not believe it was I. But when he recognized me he was very kind, and was willing to do anything he could for my relief.
For four days I lay in a dull stupor, when that phase of the disease was checked, and a very high fever set in. My sufferings were so terrible that some of my messmates came into the tent, anointed me with oil, then administered to or prayed for me; and although burning with a high fever till it seemed that I could not live, I was instantly healed, so that when they took their hands off the fever was entirely gone, and I was wet with perspiration. From that time I began to gather strength. That was my first experience with the ordinance of healing by the laying on of hands by the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.
CHAPTER VIII.
ON THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—CROSSING THE BACKBONE OF THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT—REVIEW OF THE JOURNEY—GRAVES OPENED BY WOLVES—MUTILATED BODIES—AN UNPARALLELED JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP—THE PROSPECT AHEAD—A MATTER OF LIFE AND DEATH—START DOWN THE PACIFIC SLOPE—DESCENDING THE CLIFFS WITH WAGONS—ONE VEHICLE SLIPS AND IS REDUCED TO KINDLING WOOD AND SCRAP IRON—INTO A NEW CLIMATE—CHANGE IN THE CHARACTER OF VEGETATION—WILD HORSES AND CATTLE—ATTACKED BY WILD CATTLE—SEVERAL MEN HURT AND ONE MULE GORED TO DEATH—A NUMBER OF CATTLE KILLED—SUPPLY OF BEEF—REACH THE SAN PEDRO RIVER—TRAVELING THROUGH A HEAVY GROWTH OF MESQUIT AND CHAPPARAL—APPROACH THE MEXICAN GARRISONED TOWN OF TUCSON—NEWS OF APPROACH OF A LARGE AMERICAN ARMY SENT TO THE MEXICANS—ORDER ISSUED BY COLONEL COOKE.
AT the camp at Dry Lake, which we reached between November 20 and 25, we laid over a day, and a party was sent ahead to cut a road over the divide. I was too weak for four or five days to take much interest in what passed; and in the meantime the command reached and crossed the divide, or summit of the Rocky Mountains—the backbone of the North American continent—where the waters are divided, flowing on either side to the Atlantic and Pacific respectively.
For eighteen hundred miles the Mormon Battalion members had made a hard and weary march. Starting from Nauvoo, on the Mississippi River—the "father of waters"—as exiles, they had passed over a lovely country, yet at a season of the year when travel was difficult, to the Missouri River. At the latter point the battalion was mustered into service, and moved over an excellent country two hundred miles to Fort Leavenworth; thence through what is now the state of Kansas, passing over a goodly land to the Great Plains, a timberless country, where water is scarce. There they began to be footsore and leg-weary, and to suffer severely from heat and thirst. Soon they came to the desert, and for nine days tried cooking their shortened rations over "buffalo chip" fires, with fuel even scarcer than it was poor; often having very little water, and that brackish, so that men and hearts began to grow weak and ill.
At this point in the long journey they commenced passing the open graves of soldiers, many of whom laid down their lives in the advance companies. Their graves were open for the reason that wolves had dug up the dead bodies and devoured the flesh from the bones; the blankets in which the bodies were wrapped were torn to shreds, while in some instances the carcass still hung together, except that the fingers and toes had been eaten off by wild beasts. The road was also strewn with dead horses and cattle, so that as the battalion advanced the gruesome sights became more frequent and therefore excited less comment. And in turn the battalion contributed a share of dead to the lonely graves of the plains.
Then, on the sandy roads, there was the rough order to put the shoulder to the wheel and help the jaded teams; and the battalion waded creeks and rivers with quicksand bottoms, or lifted or pulled at ropes in lowering or raising their wagons over rough and precipitous places—in what appeared at that time a rough and worthless country, which may not have changed greatly since.
At times they were called forward to tramp sand roads for teams, and then to return and pull at ropes or push at wagons which, without assistance, the teams could not control. Then when Santa Fe was passed the journey was proceeded upon with reduced rations, down the difficult country along the Rio Grande del Norte. Onward the struggle continued, over sandy deserts and through a rough, mountainous region, where the hardships were intense, and where there seemed no eye to pity and no hand to pass even a drop of water to moisten the parching tongue. It was not human capability, it was the divine power that sustained them in such extremities as they had to endure.
It was thus the renowned Mormon Battalion toiled and struggled on their journey to the summit of the lofty Rocky Mountain range—the crest of the continent—a journey whose details of privation, and peril, and patient courage, cannot be told in human words, and never can be realized except by those who experienced it. So many lofty mountain spurs had been crossed, that the final ascent seemed quite gradual.