NOTES
TAKEN DURING
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

VIEW OF WADNOON.

From the roof of Sheik Beyrook’s House

NOTES
TAKEN DURING
TRAVELS IN AFRICA,
BY THE LATE
JOHN DAVIDSON, F.R.S. F.S.A., &c.

PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY J. L. COX AND SONS, 75, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS.

1839.

ADVERTISEMENT.

To gratify the earnest desire expressed by the Friends of the late Mr. Davidson to possess some memorial of him, his Brother has been induced to print, for private distribution merely, the following pages, drawn up from his MS. Journal.

It will be seen that they are only rough and brief notes penned at the moment, and under circumstances the most trying to an active mind, and with a presentiment of failure, which has been too truly realized.

For the generally correct manner in which the names of persons and places are here given, and which in the MS. were decyphered with difficulty, Mr. Davidson’s Brother has to offer his best thanks to the Rev. G. Renouard and Capt. Washington, of the Royal Geographical Society of London.

CONTENTS.

NOTES
TAKEN DURING
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.

On Saturday, August 29, 1835, we left London by the mail, and arrived the morning following at Exeter, where we went to the cathedral, which Abou called one of the bishops’ churches. We proceeded the same evening to Falmouth, which we reached on Monday 31st. During the journey, Abou’s remarks were highly creditable to him; he expressed himself quite astonished at the rate of travelling, which he had ascertained by comparing the mile-stones we had passed with the time, as indicated by a watch; nor was he less struck with the quickness of changing horses, the punctuality in the arrival of the mail, and the manner in which one bag is delivered, and another received, while the coach is going on. In the whole country, he said very prettily, no place for more than a mile could be seen without a settlement; all is productive: no misery. He wound up his reflections with the words,—‘Good king! good people!—African people all blind: not know their own good, else they would ask Englishmen to come and teach them.’

On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise, and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.

On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the Sarah Nigritia, and got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell, which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater difficulties present themselves on land.

On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came off to give us pratique I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good breakfast at the Posada Inglaterra, I proceeded to the Franciscan convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best taste of architecture. I returned to an omelette and a segar, and water and rien de plus; strolled afterwards through the town, celebrated alike for mostachas and mantillas, for playful fans, bronze faces, and pretty feet.

At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.

At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.

Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too, for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.

Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them, they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his Majesty’s hakeem (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit: he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed during the interview were of an official and confidential nature, I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s, whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.

The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.

Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.

Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2] Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.

Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen, I calculate, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay, to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see what the result will be.

Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is too bad, and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay, which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.

Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]

Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].

Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came slick through the house, and the weather was very cold.

Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.]

Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Thursday, Oct. 8.—The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.

Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the Bocca Leonie, it made our ride about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.

Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to St. Roques’. Was disappointed.

Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The Jasseim sailed.[3]

Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next.

Friday, Oct. 23.—The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.

Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore.

Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael’s cave.

Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.

Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan incog. with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day after to-morrow.

Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I now mean to go to Tangier.

Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.

Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a vengeance.

Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the Jasseim has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.

Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.

Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the Jasseim. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve P.M.

Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.

Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return mona—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.

Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.

Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled, were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, &c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6] of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies “rárá,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.

Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.

Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.

Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.

Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.

Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums; a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued through the whole night.

Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word bahkshísh[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the Consul-general. Saw the game of powder[10] (la’b-el-báród) played, myself on horseback and the Doctor[11] on foot. Fell in with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf[12] and his long gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party, the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made, but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight, a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall get a little rest.

Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance, while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality, and all looking equally wretched. As the tide had flowed up while we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however, very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied, according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque; they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins[13] here are a better class of people than those who perform the same office in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my háik for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for two dollars. The zulham here answers to the bornus of Egypt; the jelábíyah are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for the arms to pass through.

Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.

Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven! it was a little further off.

Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge.

Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. 66°.

Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.

Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it.

Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.

Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.

Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow.

Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling, which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. “Poco negro; cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.” Ben Káyed and Susa were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village, where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country, but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor, I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off, to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest, as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit, as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients; it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I told the father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent, and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.

Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16] or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground, where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh, a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne, to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables, and miserable kuskusú.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°, intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From this stone a shelving road leads to a well called ’Aïn tayyeb (good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the compass going round while we were taking the bearings of the place, for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me, together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried, and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say, it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones, one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others, each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes, and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg 16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15 feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us, and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and mules, together with the miserable population in the background, would have made an interesting group for a picture.

Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk, a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin, took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier, and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people of service to me? The soldier who came from the dawárét,[20] to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather, however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier, at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again, after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.

Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity of iron, of an ore-like[21] incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.

Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51°.

Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he were in heaven, brought a white zulham for six dollars, and a Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish burial-ground to see the women. They have a strange custom here of putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots, upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage; those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family: she keeps the house for three months.

Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm.

Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.

Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.

Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.

Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.

Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.

Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.

Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.

Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.

Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat[23] nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.

Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.

Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?

Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.

Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now, the mules cannot be got ready. Nunquam meus. The weather very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.

Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another, and declining the honours of the grand Hajj[25] As-sídí, we got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My cortège consisted of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we encamped for the night: a poor day’s journey of not more than ten miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my monnah came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls, three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four ardebs[26] of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf, which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one, just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.

Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten, we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27] From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the western limit). Our monnah soon began to make its appearance; it consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their appetites; for the soldiers have three monnah of kuskasú in addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.

Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the grinding-river, (Wád el ’Áyéshah[28]) between the two mills on its banks, we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by mid-day, and see the town. Our monnah to-day consisted of a cow, two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers, barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us, making up six tents.

Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh, which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war, and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and, after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us an escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s; but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that we could come to-morrow. Our monnah was very poor; and the káïd sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us, intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having broken down, I was compelled to change her.

Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however, determined to enforce my right. This little fracas has done some good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are principally black. Our monnah came late, and by driblets. Six black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the bishnah, which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was covered with large quantities of el kelakh, a plant resembling fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time, we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.

Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we came to four fine kubbahs, buried almost in the sand. They are called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are two more kubbahs. We got well across the ford; but our baggage mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head: on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down, and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our monnah, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe, Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.

Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our monnah had been small; but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way to Mehedíyah. We bought some shibbel, which we saw caught. It is a finer fish than our salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We likewise saw here the bishnah seed, of which the bread of the country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah, who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as the other refused the monnah for the soldiers and muleteers, I would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31] There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.

Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On a circular hill there was a kubbah; and on each side the sloping hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage to come up. We passed outside the walls of Sallee, a fine large place, once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M., with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us, and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.

Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our window beautiful. We went to the sók,[33] where we saw the finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two improvisatori from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians, the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were many fine mosques, and numerous kubbah. We proceeded then to the governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday; as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be pleased with the city; that he would then collect from four to five hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats, paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man, a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.

Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place, although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal lots of fun. The monnah was sent as usual; sheep, fowls, beef, eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired of this, as I find that the monnah is an inducement to spin out the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow; but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.

Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay, Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s; one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line, the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct, till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds, one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this portion of my journey under the most favourable circumstances. The whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow, is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene, and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel, to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback, followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying, and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort, as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off, when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present, just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave them two dollars; but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed, who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar, of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A monnah was brought, with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day in which I felt somewhat lonely.

Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many traces of the wild boar. The road was covered with durú, which has replaced the kelakh, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain, which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through the ruins of Mansoríyah[38] and the town of Feḍáh, where a road turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá (the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up, than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing to the unsafe state of the country. He pointed out a spot opposite the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39] the son of the Emperor of Morocco, is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and our monnah was extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for the wetting.

Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this ruin of a town, and part of our monnah, which the soldiers had sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven A.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest of durú; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water, full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood, but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.

Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at two A.M. found its way through the tents. My misery commenced at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my zulham and carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricane came on from the sea, which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven A.M. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds with shibbel. After some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor, to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense monnah of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done for Abú exceeds all conception.[40] The governor wishes me to remain here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to Morocco. We are all knocked up, and I must therefore consent. The tent is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.

Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the city. Here is the kubbah or záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï Abú Shu’eïb.[41] The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat, I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine, but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him, and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing [for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun stood at 70°, and at one P.M. touched upon 80°. The governor has sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the country: this he sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór, possessing the sacred fauxbourg with the tombs of Múléï Bú Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs, &c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates; but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards: to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór, I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days; but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together, exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar, and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and soldiers said would be deducted from their monnah. Upon this there arose a good deal of contention. As the monnah was for myself alone, I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning, which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the dogs, that are more fierce and numerous here than in any other place, I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.

Sunday, Jan. 9.—Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get off before the Mazazan[42] party and the governor, but failed to do so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to see why we were not en route. We found him on a hill that overlooks Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys, with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road; a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the Sheïkh and some of his people from the dawár, at which we are to stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent, with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the monnah and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself, and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.

Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here than in any other part of the empire. At 10 A.M. we saw Jebel Khadr, rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau, from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer, who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great fear lest the tent should be carried away. The monnah was very late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of the dawár. The weather cold.

Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted, and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town; here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.; thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then the monnah. I was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients; amongst them the governor, who came early.

Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We reached Suwaïníyah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. We pitched our tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers; there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although not sleepy.

Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Abú came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules, and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of Múláï Músá at four P.M., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers, and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.

Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá, situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco, but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large audience-chamber has two hutches in it, like the cabouses of a Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however, taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43] the Moorish arch, and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind of fanál,[44] from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates, strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied, although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax, which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients; among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút, the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.

Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the báshá of the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners, who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace, mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door, which he requests may be securely fastened.

Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory, with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and, after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and, after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when, wrapped up in my zulham, I was led through the crowded bázár, and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way, came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged, and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to whom the horses belonged were then let out, and the minister came into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress; his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me, he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour, and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away, and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow, and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I was to be in readiness for the guard at seven A.M.

Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine, when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready, and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the horse on which my hader[46] rides is the most splendid animal I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces, and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery, where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages, whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several kiosks, very beautifully painted, and afterwards the garden of[47] : from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48] extending above half a mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones, ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi (the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however, that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.

Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all these I was detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility; and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.

Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients, whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one of its grand market-days.

Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór, where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb, the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden, and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt, at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I was shewn the ladies of all colours and ages, who were more pleased with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me, to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest, quite done up, and unable to write any letters.

Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.

Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí, where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out the Moorish doctor, whose materia medica was a certificate,[49] that Abú, had he been quick, might have copied out; but he has become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away, if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar) to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route; but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.

Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine gratis. The people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home; but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister, who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work to do to-morrow.

Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.

Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.

Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offered to have the Physician’s Vade Mecum translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.

Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.

Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.

Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.

Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.

Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept a haik and a sulham, the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot: it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [52] I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53] How I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.

Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would have me take a sulham from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him some pezetas. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.

Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so well. Pilula et haustus.[54] Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the more provoking, as couriers are going daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it ü ϋ 99̂9

oo 8999 ξχρσγ[55] ta a; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die; if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.

Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.

Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.

Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.

Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw the Bó-áb, who will die; had some differences with the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired early to rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.

Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues[56] for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].

Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.

Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundred of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59] has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a coup de soleil: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.

Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’s táleb[61] waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had a striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.

Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word kamsa (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.

Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress[62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.

Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. Inshá-llah.

Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to 60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room: refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.

Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.

Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a douar, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.

Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.

Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality tras (head), and ermoot (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it: I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go with me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the douars[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.

Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.

Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish[73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.

Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.

Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.

Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several douars. The people here have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we here met with the Klágh again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some refreshment; we then passed three large douars. At Auled es Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.

Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.

Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.

Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.

Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well.

Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark[78] of Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture); it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart: the night cold.

Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.; the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but not being very well, retired early to rest.

Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire.

Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison, together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and is the first on which they make their passover cakes: called at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women: many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound; bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs, three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.

Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of patients. Felt rather poorly.

Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’ town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself, and had to lie by.

Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill; the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.

Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea, and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part of the day.

Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at the end of the week.

Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not very well: began with my vocabulary.

Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún; it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú, if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients.

Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get rid of him entirely.

Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.

Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.

Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of the cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home, and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the bocca larga. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind: it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get off.

Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú; Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah; all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.

Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with my patients, all of whom are doing well.

Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up; busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún: employed in preparations for starting.

Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab to refuse. They are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from the M’hor, which is a kind of antelope, and are called selsí in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application: it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.

Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper[79] of yesterday.

Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.

Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.

Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients; glad to get off.

Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate

نصر من الله و فتح قريب و بسرالمومنين

nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people; the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.

Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only person who did not suffer by it. The thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.

Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.

Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the euphorbium, wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.

Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.

Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá[83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive, the year will be an abundant one, and vice versa. Walked out to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír, Mashallah!

Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself, although he appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.

Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me, six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the people of Agadír.

Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade, out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached 133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86] I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú. At nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early.

Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.

Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force, and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend, with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a dies non.

Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10 within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought no news.

Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah[88] passed this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.

Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.

Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A dies non.

Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news: my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were very bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on or not.

Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived; all is right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour, dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready to start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes to-day: it has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.

Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale from the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The mountains can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.

Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind, accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.

Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E. Disappointed again, as Hájí Majíibí[89] will not start for some days. Our horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may be fresh for the start (‘Inshállah’) on Saturday next.

Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N. with weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides, I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave Mogadór to-day.

Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A dies non. Felt very poorly: had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.

Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are rather too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came, but brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I am very uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The Hájí is thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for one moment what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here, he would hurry on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot bite, and therefore I had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round to the E. The thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went to my carpet rather sulky.

Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my present to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any real grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one of the severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the very fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from the N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however, do me some good. The people of his tribe offered to bring him here, but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy: no appetite, and out of spirits.

Saturday, April 16.—Therm. 72°. Day beautiful; the gale passed off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago, which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower; I was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road; he was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to hold him on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí Ibráhím, was seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to the governor’s, and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him obtain some rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in a sad state, nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened, as they call it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out: he had been fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its powers. I gave him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence, and made him a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it, than he put the bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling the crowd, that had now collected to see the holy man, that he had got at last what his stomach was craving for. I promised to make him a breakfast on the morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my treatment of him, I got no little credit; for which I can obtain some help from him in return. Am heartily sick of this place; although it has lost all its commerce, it has still a considerable revenue; it may be considered a frontier town, and is capable of being well defended; it receives one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass through it, two ounces for each camel, half a peseta for each mule, and two blanquillas for each donkey; and as it is in the great road to Sús and Súdán, these imposts produce a large income.

Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient, when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday, which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors: poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules: took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow.

Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party; in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed, in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí (Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream, although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man: he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose: the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.

Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah, a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of ’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him, and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight: afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping.

Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring; they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh ’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where through Sús. I bought him for dollars. At this point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold, most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly, is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint, I was put into the garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.

Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.

Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much pleased with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me, he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.

Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples: saw likewise several heïries, both of dromedaries and horses. As the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day, but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to shorten the time.

Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased, so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away, and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.

Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one: went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They will not give me a moment’s rest.

Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire, to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties; that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.

Style of Buildings of Wadnoon.

[(Large-size)]

Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself, and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout, who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race; they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark; they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal; they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal, the black mountain; Sók Assa is distant only one day’s journey; Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known, twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah, they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen, &c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.

Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants, or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascally by Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain, to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here, because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for at least another month, and must bear it.

Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs, and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s[94] communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95] and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole distance be performed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum, almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.

Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds that I am too canine for him to be in the same apartment, and thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred, with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah, where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20s. to 30s.; heifers, 15s.; a sheep, 2s. to 4s.; fowls vary: I paid ½d. each; bread, ¼d. per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas; barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars; a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.

Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkh is still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the trade through Mogadór.

Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent, as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.

Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.

Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day, did not go out.

Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible to give an answer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to the entré, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk, and retired to rest.

Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has got off under[96] .........[97] order. The river Assaka is to the south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which occur quotidie (daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.

Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing, &c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.

Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún; in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání; in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the ninth, el jemál: the female is called nákah: it has been known to work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords, saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four, A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98] The Jewish gentleman was offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this, I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food; but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening, which kept me up till midnight.

Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty: the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters, made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.

All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills, distant from each other about one thousand yards. By the last is meant the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.

Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty; and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself, as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery, are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.

Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one[99] before I go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them; their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her present size. Several wish to know how they are to become mothers: many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two, who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say, that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.

Friday, May 13.—Therm. 78°. Went to breakfast with the pretty Jewess; her husband is a man of some information. We had too much to eat: afterwards walked about two miles up the bed of the river, which, when full, must contain a large body of water. Visited the Arab tents; on returning, saw some very fine women, but they were beastly dirty. Morality is here at a very low ebb; the husband prostitutes his wife, and the father his child; and this is considered no disgrace, if it is done for a valuable consideration, and not for love. Witnessed a very disgusting scene with the Sheïkh; he has three wives all living, but he still likes his slaves: his fourth wife died lately; she was an Arab of great beauty, for whom he gave two hundred camels, twelve slaves, and a great quantity of produce. His eldest son is a chip of the old block, and is running after every woman he takes a fancy to, the pretty Jewess excepted, whose person is considered sacred. Three Moors have destroyed themselves for her in a fit of love, and all come to see her. As she is a patient, I can visit her daily. I am becoming very impatient, and the people tell me I have a quick temper: but the fact is, time is no object to the people here; their care is merely how to waste it; as soon as one meal is finished, they want to sleep till the time for the next arrives. It is quite dreadful to see the sad state to which human nature is degraded in this place. The small-pox has broken out with great violence, and I have to run the gauntlet without the least chance of escaping from it. A slave was brought in, charged with attempting to run away; it appears to have been a little love affair: he was punished by having a fifty-six pound-weight fastened to his leg.

Saturday, May 14.—Therm. 74°. The poor creature is still chained, and has not a drop of water, although it is now mid-day. The Sheïkh should have clean hands before he thus punished others. Went out again to the bed of the river, and made the round of the Khiesin: met many beautiful women, if they were only clean. Their husbands are all gone to Súdán; had to prescribe for some fifty of them; they wanted me to make their faces of the same colour as my legs and arms. My watch, rings, &c. were a great object of curiosity with them: had a little difficulty in making some of them shew their tongues, which they consider a mark of impudence; they all like to be closely examined; their figures are perfectly beautiful; most of them were at work. I had prayers and thanks in abundance. One very merry lass had on her neck a curious collection: it embraced a little bag of spices and scents; the nail of a horse-shoe; a leather charm, called horse; a broken shell; a large glass bead; another horse; a shell again (habha); a small habha, consisting of a circular piece of agate, and a large horse at the centre, from which was suspended the horn of a young ram; and the same things were repeated, forming the circle. Some of the women work beautiful háïks, blankets, and carpets. In the large tents are two beds raised on feet, with a cradle, the canopy for the bride. There are two tents in each inclosure of thorns or prickly pears. Visited the Millah, and then home.

Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn, who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100] It appears that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié[101] several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The government is now Fulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was; but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day, as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah, which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say, of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it, Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west, flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water, the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh, giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy here was universal, when they heard that the French had been beaten; for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought for three or four.

Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys, and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however, of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox: how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this, in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall then know how long I am to stay here.

Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy, and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.

Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; to Tínzert one day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates, pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.

Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night, notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind, but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms, passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others, and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family, four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin, and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am now so changed in appearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed, to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afresh In-shá-llah! I have written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out for the káfilah. At two P.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold, cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme: they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán, but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.

Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with immense loss: some of the female captives have been brought to the Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed, and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women, one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however, who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers, after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization, hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track, by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.

Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.

Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the prayers, and kept the house till three P.M. Another arrival from Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels, and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102] all were in good condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I am half-famished.

Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.

Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.

Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.

Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on the kummiyah.[103] So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.

The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.

Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.

Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.

Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.

Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin, and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.

Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night.

Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards noon. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer in the sun stood at 120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better, although there is but little chance of my proceeding, as the people of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát: but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—

“Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis

Præstent, mature redeat repetatque relicta.”

This is nearly my case.

Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this, there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come here. No account of the káfilah.

Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°. Dies non. I was hardly in bed, when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed, when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee, too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw, and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.

Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at two P.M. when it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had; for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near so great a degree of heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad: it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident, and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.

Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased excessively. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer was 95° under the corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be blockaded.

Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some definite arrangement.

Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if I can get some sleep, despite the great noise. These people know nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in one light and one dark, as they call the day.

Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.

Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází, and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels, mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the first wants something to make every one love her; the second that her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.

Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks, except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some good news from Senegal.

Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we had the moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.

Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food, when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.

Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah, as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject; although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at Gibraltar has done all the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah, which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth on each camel ............ looking like small canoes; many loads of reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar[105] dates and a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú, and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves, and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command, said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician; shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols, &c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger, dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them: they became alarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí Mohammed,’[106] and go any where. This was the general wind up, and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.

Tuesday, June 14.—Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me: they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth, and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place, but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days, and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days, where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again; from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses, and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and that one of his hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot, and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened: should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók (Sók el Múlíd)[107] commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S., is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen, although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh[108] (drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds, many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.

Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as the others. Foot very sore.

Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten: all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109] I have now been here two months, and there has not been a single death out of a population of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost starved. Mahmúd cut his stick[110] to-day. The sick are increasing, and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.

Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see, however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would give him some; and after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar; which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.