[Transcriber's Note:
LEAD-PAINT WARNING!
DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT INGREDIENTS
mentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter.
See [Transcriber's Notes] at end of document for more details.]

EDUCATIONAL TOYS
Consisting Chiefly of Coping-Saw Problems for
Children in the School and the Home

by
LOUIS C. PETERSEN, B. Sc.
Director of Manual Arts, State Normal University,
Carbondale, Illinois

PUBLISHED BY
THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS
PEORIA, ILLINOIS

COPYRIGHT
LOUIS C. PETERSEN
1920

[CONTENTS]

[INTRODUCTION]

The purpose in sending out this collection of toys is to promote among children a love for educational occupation. This book is intended to be of real service to parents and teachers who are intrusted with the arduous responsibility of child-training. It is with this object in view that the directions, drawings and photographs have been prepared.

The experience of almost twenty years as a teacher has convinced the author that only when the child approaches subject-matter with interest and enthusiasm can the best results be obtained. Giving a child an opportunity to make things, arouses his interest; therefore, learning by doing is a most effective method in gaining educational ends.

Toy-making incorporates this method, with several vital elements added. It takes into account the child's view-point, his proclivities and his emotions. It is a form of activity that appeals strongly to his fancy, has a direct relation to his environments, and is within the range of his mental grasp and constructive ability. His wonderful imagination endows the creatures of his handiwork with life, individuality and cunning. The toy problem is in harmony with the child's resourcefulness, his powers and his interests.

The problems contained in this book have been selected from those worked out in the Normal Model School. They have been tested under ordinary class-room conditions. To survive the weeding-out process, a toy has had to meet the following requirements:

1. It must be within the child's power.
2. It must excite and sustain interest.
3. It must possess educational value.
4. It must be adaptable to light-wood construction.
5. It must conform in size and complexity to the limited space and equipment of class-room conditions.

In his early years, the child begins tinkering with what materials and tools he can find, making something. The wise parent and teacher will turn that healthful, happy, creative instinct into good, useful channels. He will encourage and guide the child, in these early attempts, by surrounding him with congenial conditions, by furnishing him suggestions, pictures, drawings and such other aids as will direct him to occupational problems of educational value, and by providing him with a place to work, the tools, wood, nails, wire and other necessary equipment.

One advantage in connection with the kind of educational hand work presented in this book is that it can be carried on with a very small and inexpensive equipment. Moreover, it is light, clean and agreeable in every respect. The tools are safe for a child to handle. The material is substantial and durable. The articles made are firm, strong and of lasting quality. They become an excellent means for providing an abundance of entertainment, and constitute most acceptable gifts, promoting as much genuine happiness for the industrious donor as for the fortunate receiver.

Toy-making may readily be adapted to class-room conditions and a period be devoted to it each day. Members of the class may be appointed to distribute the tools and material at the beginning of the period, and collect them at the end. While at work, each pupil should stay at his desk and keep it neat and orderly. When not in use, the equipment should be locked up in a box having suitable compartments for the tools and materials.

The teacher who is to conduct the class should be thoroly familiar with the work and should have made each model before taking it up as a class problem. The work as a whole should be conducted in a systematic and quiet manner; concise planning, prompt action, and accuracy in details should be insisted upon. The cheerful spirit, the formation of correct habits, and the proper regard for everything and everybody should be cultivated along with skill in constructing and good taste in coloring the toys.

If for any valid reason this work can not be carried on in the school, the teacher should encourage the pupils to do it as home work. The child can buy his own scroll saw and colors, and furnish his own wood. The work can be done outside of school, but still be under the supervision and guidance of the teacher. The training that comes thru reading and interpreting directions and drawings, and carrying out the instruction in every detail, is of value to every child, no matter what his future career may be.

The child should, therefore, have a book of his own, giving directions and drawings. Furthermore, the teacher should give the proper amount of credit for the home work.

L. C. PETERSEN.

[TOOLS AND SUPPLIES]

The equipment listed below is suggestive for ordinary class-room conditions. The number of pupils should not exceed twenty-four.

Tools for each pupil:

• 12" rule.
• Coping-saw.
• Saw-bracket, [Fig. 1]. A working drawing of the saw-bracket is shown in [Fig. 2].
• A water-color brush.

Fig. 1

Tools for every four pupils:

• Scissors.
• Compass.
• Water-color pan.
• 4-1/2" round-nose pliers, [Fig. 4].
• 5" side-cutting pliers.
• 5 oz. claw hammer.
• 8" half-round mill file.
• Bow-drill, see [Fig. 3].

Fig. 2

General class equipment and supplies:

• A box for locking up equipment and work.
• 2 breast drills.
• Iron block to serve as anvil.
• 6 quires of No. 1/2 sand-paper.
• Le Page's glue in two one-pint cans.
• 1 gross coping-saw blades.
• 1 lb. each of 1/2", 3/4" and 1" brads.
• 2 lbs. each of 3/4" No. 19, 1" No. 18, 1-1/4" No. 17, 1-1/2" No. 16, and 1-3/4" No. 15 flat-headed nails.
• 1 lb. each of 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" brass escutcheon pins.
• 30 ft. of No. 12 copper-coated steel wire.
• A few nails of various sizes for making drills.
• Turpentine.
• Alcohol.
• Borax.
• Brushes of various sizes.
• Paint—red, yellow, green, blue, black and white of the paints to be used. Several good enamel paints, ready for use, are on the market. "Calcimo" is cheaper, but not so convenient, as it must be prepared.

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

[BOW DRILL]

The bow drill is useful for drilling small holes in wood, and may easily be made by a child. First, procure an ordinary thread spool. Push a round stick six inches long thru the hole with a tight fit. Shape the top of the stick to a point ([Fig. 3]). Drive a nail into the other end of the stick. Cut the head off the nail, hammer it flat at the end, and sharpen it with a file. In this way a drill of any size needed for the work can be made. The bow is made from a slender, flexible stick, about twenty inches long. A notch is cut at each end where the ends of a strong string are securely tied. Slip the bow string once around the spool and spin it. The top end of the spindle is guided in a shallow hole in a piece of wood as shown at H in [Fig. 3]. This block of wood is held in the left hand while the right moves the bow back and forth, spinning the spindle and drilling the hole.

[TRANSFERRING DESIGNS]

The shapes of people, animals and birds on the plates that follow are drawn full size. They are intended to be made of wood, and may be transferred by any one of the following methods:

(a) Place a piece of transparent paper, known as tracing paper, over the drawing in the book, and with a soft, sharp lead pencil, trace all the lines on the drawing. Cut out the traced shape with a pair of scissors. Place it on the wood, and with pencil trace along the edge of the paper pattern.

(b) Make a tracing and paste it on the wood.

(c) Place a piece of carbon paper on the wood, carbon side down. On this, place the tracing in position and fasten it down with two thumb tacks. With a hard pencil, or a stylus, go over all the lines of tracing. Pressure should be applied as the lines are being traced so that they may show plainly on the wood.

(d) Rub the back of the tracing with graphite (the lead of the pencil). Place it on the wood, and with a hard pencil, or a stylus, trace the lines.

(e) When a permanent pattern is desired for class use, place the tracing on a piece of cardboard, and transfer the outline by method c or d, indicated above. With a sharp, pointed knife or shears cut the cardboard accurately to line. Place this template on the wood, and with a sharp pencil, held vertically, draw lines around the edge of the template. This method serves well for class work.

[WOODS]

Save the thin-wood boxes found at home. Ask the store-keeper to save boxes instead of burning them. A rich supply of wood for toy-making may be secured in this way. For class work, it will be necessary to buy wood prepared and surfaced to dimensions. The thicknesses most convenient for school work are 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 7/8".

While three-ply wood is best for the thin stock, the single-ply answers the purpose when due care is given to the direction of the wood fibers—the grain. Such woods as maple, elm, birch, cherry and bay wood are very durable, but rather hard to work. Bass wood, poplar and sugar pine are easy to work, are preferable in school, and give satisfactory results.

[LAYING OUT WORK]

It is important to have the patterns placed correctly on the wood so that the desired result may be reached. One of the things sought is the greatest possible strength in the parts sawed out. The grain of the wood should, therefore, run lengthwise of the wood where the parts are narrow. Another thing desired is the economical use of material. The patterns should, therefore, be so arranged on the wood that the outlines will match closely together and thus use up as nearly as possible all surface space on the board. Generally, it is advisable to place the larger patterns first, beginning near a corner of the board, and then fit in the smaller patterns on the intermediate spaces.

Where the drawings are not full size, the dimensions are shown in inches or fractions of an inch. Guided by the figures, the outlines of the object may be laid out directly on the wood by ruler, pencil and compasses. In laying out the different shapes on the wood, attention should be given to the direction of the grain of the wood, to have it run lengthwise the object, not crosswise.

[SAWING]

After the different shapes have been properly laid out on the wood, the next thing to do is to saw them out with a coping-saw. The wood is placed flat on a saw-bracket, pattern side up. This saw-bracket is fastened to the edge of a desk or a table top and should be adjusted in height so the top of it is about 6" below the child's chin. The child may stand or sit, when at work, whichever is most comfortable, but a standing position gives more freedom of movement.

The wood is held and guided on the saw-bracket with the left hand, while the right hand operates the coping-saw with an up-and-down motion in the V-shaped opening in the bracket.

The coping-saw is the principal tool needed for this work, and may be purchased with extra blades for about 25 cents. The frame is made of spring steel and holds the blade in tension. By pressing the frame against the edge of a table, it may readily be sprung enough to allow the blade to be put into the slots in the ends of the frame. There is a pair of end slots and a pair of side slots in the frame. The blade may be inserted into these slots with either the teeth edge or the smooth edge of the blade towards the frame. The points of the teeth should always point towards the handle of the frame. The frame is held with the handle down. The saw does the cutting as it is pulled downward. In working the saw, the blade must be kept perpendicular to the face of the wood. The blade should never be forced against the wood, as that will cause the wood to tear, and leave a ragged edge. Saw right to the line. Keep the saw going up and down to insure freedom and plenty of room for the blade, especially in turning corners. When removing it from the work, do not attempt to twist the blade or let the frame hang on it, as the blades are brittle and break easily.

When an opening is to be sawed out, bore a hole in the middle of the part to be cut out, remove the blade from the upper part of the frame, while holding it in place in the lower part with the thumb of the right hand. Slip the blade thru the hole from below, and replace it in the slot while pressing the upper part of the frame against the edge of the desk. When the opening has been cut, the saw may be removed by reversing the operation. In all cases, saw the edge of the wood to a finish as far as possible. Rough or fuzzy edges should be removed by filing and sand-papering.

[FASTENING TO BASES]

Where toys have bases, they should be made of two or more thicknesses, one overlapping the other. The lower piece should be thicker than the upper, extending a distance equal to the thickness of the upper part. When both the toy and the base parts are ready to fasten together, hold the toy in a vise, with its feet up, and drive nails thru the upper part of the base into the feet. Then fasten the top to the lower part with escutcheon pins. Space the pins accurately.

[FASTENINGS]

Several methods are employed in fastening parts together in toy-making. Where parts are joined together permanently, a thin coat of liquid glue should be rubbed on the joining surfaces with a small paddle, and then fastened with several brads. Where possible, these brads should reach thru the parts just enough to be clenched on the other side (A,[ Fig. 5]).

Fig. 5

A movable joint is secured by one flat-headed nail which acts as a pivot, on which one or more of the parts turn. The nail must reach thru the wood far enough to allow the end to be bent back like a staple and be driven into the wood.

A loose joint is required in some toys so that the parts may swing without friction. A flat-headed nail is used as a pivot, and holes, a little bigger than the nail, are bored thru all but one of the parts to be joined together. The part that will be nearest to the point of the nail has no hole bored in it, for it should fit tight. The nail must reach thru the joint far enough so that it may be bent back, staple-like, and when the point is driven back into the wood, the joint should swing freely. The nail may be bent with round-nose pliers (B,[ Fig. 5]).

[COLORING THE TOYS]

The possibilities that may be achieved in beautifying these wooden toys are almost limitless. They may be treated as design problems, thereby serving as a means of training the taste and imagination as well as developing an appreciation of space relations and color harmonies. The work is fascinating to children and presents an excellent opportunity for acquiring knowledge and skill in mixing and applying colors. Several methods are given here. The choice of method should be guided by the child's ability and experience in doing work of this kind. The employment of striking and brilliant colors will enhance the charm and increase the artistic effect.

The methods of coloring are arranged in the order of their difficulty in manipulation:

Method No. 1. Water colors may be used to color the wood, but only a little water should be used so as to prevent the tendency to spread. When the toy is dry, a coat of shellac may be applied over the water color. This protects the wood and gives the toy a crisp and bright appearance.

Method No. 2. Of the calcimine paints, the one known as "Calcimo" may be used successfully by children. It is procured in powder form and costs from 15 to 50 cents a pound according to color. It is mixed with water that contains a binder to prevent the colors from rubbing off in handling the toys. The binder may be either glue or mucilage mixed with the water. The proportion is about a tablespoonful of glue to a quart of water. In preparing the colors, put a teaspoonful of powder in a water-color pan and add water, while stirring and rubbing out the lumps, till the mixture comes to a consistency of thick cream. It may then be applied with a No. 6 water-color brush.

LEAD WARNING!
DO NOT USE THE WHITE LEAD OR GROUND LEAD INGREDIENTS MENTIONED IN METHODS 3 AND 4.

Method No. 3. When handled correctly, oil paint and enamel paint give excellent results, producing a smooth, brilliant gloss. First, give the toy a coat of white lead or flat white tone. Apply it with a flat sash brush about an inch wide. Allow the toy to dry four or five days and then sand-paper it smoothly with No. 1/2 sand-paper. Finally, give it a coat of enamel paint of the colors desired.

If colored enamel is not at hand, use white enamel and add colors ground in oil. The enamel paint is put on a surface with a large camel-hair brush. Use No. 10 artist's flat brush for features. Natural details and life-like effects should be avoided.

The features should be conventionalized. Eyes, ears, nose and mouth may be dotted in with a tooth-pick.

Method No. 4. For a second coat, instead of using enamel for coloring, white lead ground in oil may be used, mixed with colors ground in oil. This produces a mat or dull finish that is quite pleasing. However, if a gloss finish is desired, a coat of varnish may be applied over the dull color. Dry colors may be mixed with shellac varnish until it is heavy enough to cover the wood. If this mixture becomes too thick to spread smoothly, it may be thinned with alcohol. The brush that has been used in varnish may be cleaned by washing in borax water. When the joints are movable, it is advisable to paint each part separately before putting them together. Where glue has been used to form joints, it should be thoroly dry before the toy is painted.

[WORKING DRAWINGS AND DIRECTIONS]

In beginning the construction of these toys, read the directions carefully so as to understand the process of construction. Study how you can best arrive at the desired results. By thinking ahead, as you proceed, many mistakes may be prevented.

• Be careful in making your drawings.
• Keep your pencil sharp.
• Be precise in making measurements.
• Handle the tools with care.
• Finish one job before starting another.
• Have a place for your tools.
• Keep your glue and wood-finishes well covered to prevent drying.
• Keep your brushes in kerosene to prevent them from getting stiff.
• Be clean in handling colors.
• Let one color get dry before joining on another.
• Let the colors join on sharp and definite lines.
• Pick up only a small amount of color with the brush.
• Lay the color on in a thin coat.
• Clean your brushes before putting them away.
• Give your work that clean, crisp, snappy appearance which is the mark of superior craftsmanship.

THE BUZZER

This toy is made from 1/4" stock. Two 1/8" holes are located on a straight line passing thru the center, one on each side of the center and 1/4" from it. The circle is drawn with compass, and then sawed to the line.

The circumference is stepped off into lengths equal to the radius, and every second point connected by line with the center. This divides the surface into three equal spaces called sectors. Color each sector with one of the primary colors—red, blue and yellow.

A strong cord is slipped thru the two holes, and the ends tied together in a square knot, leaving a loop on each side of the wheel.

To operate the buzzer, insert a finger of each hand in the loops and swing the disk around in a circular motion till the strands of the cord are twisted together. Then pull hard on the cord so that the disk will be set into a spinning motion as the cord is being unwound. At this instant slacken the cord so that the disk may continue turning, and rewind the string. Then pull on the cord again, and the disk will spin in the opposite direction. By whirling the disks rapidly in this way, the colors will blend and show a new color produced by the three primary colors. The other side of the wheel may have half of it colored yellow and half colored blue. This will blend into green when spun. By pasting paper sectors of different colors on the wheel, an infinite number of tests in color-blending may be made.

THE SHARK PUZZLE

The shark is sawed out as shown in the drawing and three holes bored.

To make one of the rings, draw two concentric circles—one 1/2" radius and the other 3/4" radius. First, saw out the inner circle and then the outer.

Take a piece of cord a foot long, double it and slip the loop thru the middle hole in the shark. Next, put the two ends of the cord thru the loop. Slip a ring on each end of the cord, and tie with a slip knot into the end hole in the shark.

Puzzle: Transfer a ring from one end to the other.

Buzzer
Shark Puzzle

DUCK

The parts for this fowl are sawed out of 1/4" stock. The edges should be sawed square and to line, and may be made smooth and slightly rounded by filing and sand-papering.

The two feet should be made alike and held together when the hole for the nail is drilled thru them. The bottom of the feet will then be on the same level, and the duck will stand upright. Put a fine 1" nail thru one foot, drive it thru the body, at the proper place, and press it thru the other foot.

With round-nose pliers, bend the end of the nail around so the end will point toward the wood ([Fig. 5]). Place the head of the nail against a block of iron, and with the hammer drive the point of the nail into the foot. The joint should be firm and movable so the duck will stand at different postures.

Color the body brown, with black outlines and streaks on the wings, the bill yellow, the head green, and the feet red.

Fig. 6. Platform Bases.

GOOSE

This project may be made of 3/8" stock and fastened to a platform base ([Fig. 6]).

The platform is made of two rectangular pieces one on top of the other. The upper is 1-1/2" by 2-1/4"; the lower, 2-1/4" by 3". The grain in the two pieces should cross to prevent warping.

To fasten the goose to the platform, outline on the upper piece of the platform the position for the foot. Hold the goose with foot up. Drive 1-1/2" brads thru the upper piece of the platform into the foot.

On the upper side of this upper piece of the platform, locate points at each corner, 1/4" from the outer edges, and drive 5/8" escutcheon pins thru it into the lower piece of the platform.

Smooth all parts, and color the body white with black trimmings. Make the bill yellow, the feet red and the platform green.

Duck
Goose

WILD DUCK

The body may be cut from 3/8" stock, or from heavier material if so desired. It may be whittled to natural shape with a pocket knife before fastening it onto the platform.

The bill, eye and feet are colored yellow, throat, breast and tail red, head and wings dark green, and platform blue.

HEN

The construction of this problem is similar to that of the goose. Her feet and comb are colored red, body white with black trimming, beak and platform yellow.

Wild Duck
Hen

DEER

The stock is 3/8" thick, the grain running vertical. It should be mounted on a wheel base 3/8" by 2" by 5-1/2" ([Fig. 7]). The deer is colored reddish brown, but nearly white under the body and on the lower parts of the legs. Color the base black and the wheels red.

Fig. 7. Wheel Base.

Deer

COW

The stock is 3/8" thick. The grain of the wood should run vertical. The cow should be mounted on a wheel base 3/8" by 2" by 5-1/2". Wheels are 3/8" thick, 1-1/2" diameter. This is a Jersey cow, and should be colored accordingly. The base may be colored green, and the wheels red.

Cow

WEASEL

This little creature is wary and swift as lightning in its movements.

The stock should be 1/4" thick, the grain running lengthwise of the body. It may be mounted on rocker base 1/4" by 1-1/2" by 5" ([Fig. 8]. See text on "Minstrels," [page 30]). It is reddish brown with under part of body light.

Fig. 8. Rocker Bases.

Weasel

TIGER

This may be treated in the same way as the weasel except the coloring. Examine a tiger in the zoo, or look up some colored pictures of tigers so you will know just how to draw his stripes and just what color to make them.

Tiger

ROCKING RHINO

The rhinoceros should be cut out and colored and mounted on a platform which has rockers fastened to its edges ([Fig. 8]).

Hold the animal in the vise, head down, and nail thru the platform into the feet.

Rocking Rhino

MINSTRELS

The stock for the two minstrels, the platform and the rockers is 1/4" thick, with the grain of the wood running lengthwise in each object.

The bottom of the feet of the figures should fit squarely onto the platform. The rockers are laid off with the compass. The center of the arc is on a separate piece of wood of the same thickness as the rocker.

When the rockers are accurately finished and nailed to the platform, a center line is drawn along the under side of the platform, and points located to match the position of the feet of the figures. Use 3/4" brads and drive them thru the platform. Hold the figures, heads down, in the vise, or in clamps, and, in turn, drive the brads thru the feet and into the legs so that the figures will stand in an upright position. They are then colored in such brilliant attire as is becoming two gay minstrels.

Minstrels

SQUIRREL

The squirrel is generally regarded as being wary and wild. Still, by wise and kind treatment, its timidity can be overcome, and it may become quite tame. All parts of the squirrel may be made from 1/4" stock. Saw out the body, two fore, two hind legs and a nut.

Hold each pair of legs together in boring holes thru them. Smooth the parts and assemble them by firm movable joints.

Color throat and breast light gray, and the remainder brown.

Squirrel

PIG

This problem is worked out similar to the squirrel. It may be colored red, black or white, with large spots.

Pig

KANGAROO

This animal has its home in Australia, where the birds are songless and the trees give no shade.

It has a very powerful tail which serves with the two long hind legs as its support and for making enormous bounds. The fore legs, much like arms, are used with surprising dexterity by this strange animal. The nose, throat and breast are very light, the rest of the body is reddish brown.

Kangaroo

CAMEL

It is with significance that this beast is called the ship of the desert. Like a ship crossing a wide ocean of water, the camel travels across a great expanse of sand carrying heavy loads of freight.

It has a wonderful endurance and can go for a week without drinking, subsisting on the coarse grass of that waste region, and the water stored up in its humps. Its dreamy eyes, sullen nature, angular figure and neutral grey-brown color—all seem to resemble the rocky desert itself.

Camel

GIRAFFE

This creature ([Fig. 9]) is, unquestionably, the tallest of all the beasts of the forests of Africa. It does not stoop to obtain its living from the ground, but browses on the tops of trees.

It is also called the camelopard, suggesting a resemblance in shape to the camel and in color to the leopard.

It is cream-colored with a shower of dark-brown spots on its back and sides.

Fig. 9.

Giraffe

SWAN ROCKER

All the parts may be made from 1/4" stock. The two sides are made like the pattern. The seat is 2-1/4" wide, the back 2-1/2". Both are 3" long, and serve to unite the two sides.

When the parts are finished and ready for assembling, mark on the sides the exact location of seat and back; also the position of each nail on all parts. Hold the two sides together and make small holes thru them where the nails are to be driven. Nail, in turn, the seat and back to the first side, and then to the second side.

Color white and decorate appropriately.

Swan Rocker

BALANCING PEACOCK

Saw out the shape of the fowl as outlined in the drawing.

There is good chance for display of fine color in dark-green and blue. The breast should be colored brown.

Make a small stick about 2" long for a perch. Drive a small nail into each end of the stick, and tie the ends of a fine cord to each nail. Press a brad thru the middle of the stick up into the foot of the peacock. It may then be hung up by the long loop of the string and swung freely.

Peacock

TOY DOG

This dog may be made of 3/16" or 1/4" stock. When put together, the two pieces for the body are separated by the head, tail and two circular pieces. The legs are fastened to the outside of the body by two long nails that reach thru the five thicknesses. The ends of the nails are bent back.

Smooth the parts and color white, with large black spots on head, back, tail and legs.

Toy Dog

TEDDY BEAR

This animal has two pieces for the body. The head and two circular pieces hold these two pieces apart. The head and legs move on tight joints so that the bear will stay in the desired position.

Teddy Bear

PARROT

This may be made of 1/4" stock. The base has two holes bored thru it for the uprights with fit tight into the holes ([Fig. 10]). The perch is 2" long and has a brad in each end to swing on. These brads fit loose thru the uprights near the top ends.

The parrot is sawed out, and a 3/4" brad driven up thru the foot which also fits into the hole in the middle of the perch.

The parrot may be colored white with black trimmings, yellow beak and eyes, red crest, tail and foot. The wings are green.

The stand should have a green base, red uprights, and yellow perch. The bird should balance well and swing freely.

Fig. 10.

Parrot

DOLL'S HOBBY HORSE

The two body pieces of the horse with rocker are sawed from 1/4" wood. The seat and back are made alike, as are also the shelf and foot-rest. The ends of these four pieces should be at right angles to the sides, and the edges should be slightly rounded.

Mark carefully on both side pieces where the cross-pieces are to be fastened. Hold the two together and make fine holes thru the two thicknesses where the nails are to go thru. By driving the brads thru these holes, fasten all the cross pieces to one side, and watch that the brads go straight. Then fasten the other side in a similar way.

Color the horses white, rockers red, and seat blue.

Doll's Hobby Horse

STERN WHEELER

This boat is sawed out according to the drawing, and notches cut on the arms at the stern as a place for the rubber band which serves both as axle and motive power. The paddles are sawed out to fit together to form a stern wheel with four paddles.

The elastic is made in a double loop of four thicknesses, one of which is placed in each of the four angles of the paddle. By twisting the elastic band, power is stored up sufficient for the boat to attain a fair rate of speed. A spool serves as smoke-stack.

Paint the boat white and smoke-stack red.

THE WEATHER-COCK

This fowl may be made of 3/8" stock; a shingle will do. Let the grain run vertically. The perch may be made of similar stock, triple thickness, with the middle piece short to allow room for the foot of the rooster. The pieces are securely fastened together with nails, and a hole bored in the other end of the perch for a metal pivot, on which it should swing to tell the way the wind blows. Give it two coats of paint, using brilliant colors.

Stern Wheeler
Weather Cock

ARM-CHAIR AND ROCKING-CHAIR

These two doll's chairs are similar in construction. Make them from 1/4" wood. Saw out two sides, a back and a seat for each chair. Have edges finished accurately. The seats are alike for the two chairs. The backs, also, are alike, except that the one for the rocker is 1/4" longer than the other. Assemble as shown in dotted lines, and fasten with 1" brads.

The chairs may be colored white or mahogany. With due care and skill, this furniture may be made very attractive and valuable.