Transcriber’s Note:

The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

Rabbit en Casserole

HOW TO COOK
IN
CASSEROLE DISHES

BY

MARION HARRIS NEIL, M.C.A.

Formerly Cookery Editor, ‘The Ladies’ Home Journal’; Author of ‘Candies and Bonbons and How to Make Them’; ‘Canning, Preserving, and Pickling’; ‘The Thrift Cook Book’; ‘Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing-Dish Recipes’; etc.

LONDON: 38 Soho Square, W. 1

W. & R. CHAMBERS, LIMITED

EDINBURGH: 339 High Street

NOTES

In place of “whole peppers” read “peppercorns.”

In place of “okra” read “canned okra or diced vegetable marrow.”

In place of “squabs” read “pigeons.”

In place of “corn-starch” read “corn-flour.”

In place of “pumpkin” read “canned pumpkin.”

In place of “string-beans” read “French beans.”

Printed in Great Britain.

W. & R. Chambers, Ltd., London and Edinburgh.

CONTENTS

PAGE
How to Cook in Casserole Dishes[9]
Soup Recipes[17]
Fish Recipes[30]
Poultry and Game Recipes[44]
Meat Recipes[54]
Cold Meat Recipes[70]
Vegetable Recipes[79]
Salad Recipes[95]
Pudding Recipes[103]
Invalid Recipes[127]
Cheese Recipes[137]
Egg Recipes[147]
Sauce Recipes[159]
Cake and Bread Recipes[170]
Pickle Recipes[181]
Preserve Recipes[193]
Miscellaneous Recipes[202]
Index[212]

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Rabbit en Casserole[Frontispiece]
Soup en Marmite[17]
Haddock and Macaroni[32]
Lobster Newburg[40]
Ragout of Duck[41]
Veal and Ham Pie[56]
Beef and Sausages[57]
Group of Casseroles[65]
Baked Beans[80]
Curried Vegetables[88]
Mushrooms au Gratin[89]
American Salad[97]
Baked Apples[105]
French Pudding[112]
Assorted Small Casseroles[152]
Egg and Potato Pie[153]

HOW TO COOK IN CASSEROLE DISHES

“Some hae meat and canna eat,

An’ some wad eat that want it,

But we hae meat an’ we can eat,

Sae let the Lord be thankit.”

There is no doubt that the fashion of cooking in casseroles or earthenware dishes has come to stay in this country; and it is hardly a matter of surprise when the advantages of this form of cookery are really understood, whether it be actual casserole cookery, so called, or cookery in fireproof utensils.

Cooking “en casserole” is a term which signifies dishes cooked and served in the same earthenware pot or utensil, though, as every one knows, the original French word is the generic name for a stewpan or a saucepan.

The old idea of a casserole was some preparation of chopped fish, flesh, or vegetables enveloped in a crust of cooked rice, macaroni, or potato. Properly speaking, however, a casserole is a dish, the material for which in many instances is first prepared in the sauté or frying-pan and then transferred to the earthenware pan to finish cooking by a long, slow process which develops the true flavors of the food being cooked.

The sooner the casserole utensil becomes an indispensable part of our kitchen outfit the better, for it makes in every way for economy,—economy of materials, time, and labor,—as materials often too tough for ordinary cooking may by this means be served in a nutritious and tender condition. When casserole cookery is thoroughly understood, many combinations of food and many inexpensive viands will be put to use and very palatable results obtained.

Casseroles nowadays take on all shapes and sizes, from the dainty individual dishes up to a size sufficient for serving a large number of persons.

Of late years the prices of these utensils have been reduced so greatly that they are within the reach of the most modest housewife’s pocketbook, and then at the same time the actual pots and fireproof dishes have been improved enormously in quality.

Every kind of utensil can be had in this ware nowadays, and people are realizing how delicious food cooked in this way is.

They may be bought at all the reliable house-furnishing stores. Ornamental effects in brown, green, blue, red, white, or yellow stoneware add to the appearance of the breakfast, luncheon, or dinner table. No one attempts to deny that the eye has much to do with the palate, and that a dish served in an attractive form is likely to prove much more pleasing to the taste than a carelessly offered one. The holders in which the casseroles are placed when removed from the oven and taken to the table are made of silver, nickel, brass, copper, and wrought iron, and are examples of genuine artistic merit.

For those who do not wish the extra expense of the metal holder a platter or tray will answer the purpose, which is simply to keep the hot casserole from coming in contact with the table or table mats and scorching them. The adaptability of a stoneware cooking utensil deserves to be more fully known, when it will be more thoroughly appreciated.

For braising, pot roasting, as well as stewing, which are slow cooking processes, the casserole has proved its superiority over the metal pans again and again. It gives its best and almost exclusive service in the baking oven, for poultry done in pot roasting fashion or for stewing fruit, and other articles which require to be cooked slowly under close cover. There are few cooks who do not know that the application of a moderate, even heat for certain food materials produces far better results than if quick heat is applied. For such cases the use of earthenware cooking utensils is to be strongly recommended, because by their aid an application of heat, such as will insure gentle simmering, steaming, or baking, is assured.

The casserole may be regarded as a labor-saving device, taking the place of a half-dozen pots and pans in the kitchen.

SOME COMMENDABLE FEATURES OF CASSEROLE DISHES

(1) The initial cost of the utensils is very low, and if proper care is bestowed on them they may last as long as metal pans.

(2) All risk of metallic contamination is avoided. The ingredients may be put together in a casserole and allowed to stand for hours in it before cooking without spoiling in the very least degree. Its lining cannot scale, and in cooking the contents cannot become tainted or discolored.

(3) The ornamental appearance of casserole dishes simplifies the practice of serving the viands at table in the vessels in which they were cooked, so great a desideratum in cases where the prosperity of a dish depends upon its hot service. The troublesome process of re-dishing can in most cases be dispensed with. This is convenient as well as economical.

(4) Casseroles are readily cleaned on account of their perfectly hard and unbroken surfaces. It can easily be seen when casseroles are clean. They are sanitary, and food prepared in them is pure and sweet. They do not retain any taste whatever from previous cooking. Therefore the same utensils can be used for the most varying preparations.

(5) The cooking in casserole dishes is slow but thorough, and all the nutritious elements in the viands are preserved in their integrity. The cover must fit snugly to each utensil, to prevent too rapid escaping of the aromas and flavors. Sometimes a strip of cloth, spread with a soft paste of flour and water or mashed potatoes, is pressed over the joining of the casserole and the cover, and the heat of the oven finishes the sealing of the dish. When the dish is ready to serve, the strip of cloth and paste is removed.

(6) The use of a casserole is economical. The actual cooking is effected slowly and evenly, consequently less fuel is used in cooking. Once the materials have been started on their culinary way they require little attention. A casserole dish may be placed in the oven or on the stove; it may be used for steamed food or as a chafing dish.

(7) The cleanliness and wholesomeness of a casserole make it especially valuable in preparing food for the invalid and the convalescent.

(8) In the cooking of fruits and vegetables, especially for canning, the casserole is invaluable. The earthenware is not attacked by fruit acids, therefore cannot give rise to any noxious product.

(9) Any dish which requires slow, gentle cooking can be prepared in a casserole, and hash, curry, and other réchauffés are far superior in flavor when recooked in earthenware than in metal. The stew, or whatever it is, may be left to get cold in the casserole. The color would be spoiled if this were done with an ordinary saucepan.

(10) The flavor of the food cooked is brought out best when it is prepared in an earthenware dish.

(11) The fact that a casserole is a non-conductor of heat makes it more economical to use than other ware.

(12) The amount of water, liquid, or stock in which the article is to be cooked should be relatively small, and, in general, seasoned. For stews, ragouts, etc., it is better to cook the meat in a nicely seasoned sauce, that it may absorb the flavor in cooking. The time, in general, should be multiplied by two; that is, if the recipe calls for thirty minutes; cook in the casserole in the oven for about sixty minutes. The heat of the oven should be about 212 degrees Fahrenheit or less, that the liquid in the casserole may simmer, not boil.

When vegetables are to be cooked—and nearly all vegetables are wonderfully better when cooked by this method—a small amount of water, in many cases seasoned stock, should be used.

(13) Left-overs, salads, and small entrées of all kinds may be served in a most attractive manner in ramequins or individual casseroles.

(14) The crowning advantage of casserole cooking, especially in a family where for one cause or another meals are apt to be irregular, is that the dish can be kept waiting for a considerable time without deterioration. Food can be left in a casserole with perfect safety as long as desired.

HOW TO CARE FOR CASSEROLE DISHES

The cook who has been accustomed to the use of iron, granite, copper, aluminum, or other metal cooking utensils will necessarily have something to learn when adopting earthenware. It must be realized that it is a method of slow cookery, and cannot be hurried. Before being used for the first time the vessels should be soaked in cold water for some hours, as this will go far toward saving them from cracking on their first exposure to heat. There need be little risk of this if the heat be applied gradually, and this principle should always be observed; although as the utensils become seasoned by constant use the risk of accident is materially lessened. In many places garlic is considered indispensable, the new dishes being rubbed with a clove of it, “to prevent their cracking.” Never place the vessels on the stove or within the oven without either water or fat in them. Never put a casserole roughly on a metal surface, especially if it is full or partly full.

Sudden alternations of temperature should be avoided, that is to say, the casserole should not be taken off the range or out of the oven and placed in cold water or on the wet sink, and vice versâ. A fierce heat is never needed or desirable.

If the cooking is done on an ordinary coal range the fire holes should be kept closed and the heat received through the top lids; if a gas range be employed, the gas jets should be kept low, and not allowed to flare round the utensil. When cooking is being done on the top of the range with wood, coal, gas, or oil as the fuel, an asbestos mat placed underneath will modify the heat. The asbestos mat may also be used in the oven. If the heat must be intense for other food in progress of cooking at the same time as an earthenware dish is in the oven, the heat may be controlled by placing the casserole in a pan of hot water which can be lowered in temperature by occasional supplies of cold water added to the hot water.

The adoption of these simple precautions will make easy the use of earthenware utensils. Marmites, ramequins, cocottes, au gratin dishes, and soufflé cases all come under the head of casseroles.

Soup en Marmite

SOUP RECIPES

“Give zest and flavor to a mess of pottage”

BROWN SOUP WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS

Melt the butter in a large marmite, let it get brown, then brown in it the onions, cut in rings; remove the onions from the pot, and brown the flour in the butter; then add the water and the kitchen bouquet, stir till smooth, allow this to boil, put back the onions, and add the vegetables cut into neat pieces, the meat cut up into small pieces, and the seasoning; simmer for one and a half hours, remove the meat, and rub through a sieve as much of the vegetables with the soup as possible.

Put the soup back into the marmite with the meat and some forcemeat balls (made as undernoted); simmer again for fifteen minutes, skim off the fat if necessary, and serve in small fireproof dishes.

FORCEMEAT BALLS

Beat up the egg and mix in the above ingredients, form into tiny balls, roll in flour, and add to the soup.

BROWN STOCK

Wipe the meat and cut it into small square pieces. Break up the bones and remove the marrow. Put the bones and the meat into a large casserole, cover with the water, and bring slowly to boiling point; skim thoroughly, then add all the other ingredients, and simmer for four hours; then strain, and when cold remove the fat.

The bones may be boiled down again for cheaper stock.

To brown the onions place them with the skin on in a tin and set in the oven until brown.

CHEESE SOUP WITH SAVORY CUSTARD

Pare and slice the vegetables and fry them in the butter with the herbs, mace, and whole peppers for five minutes, then add the flour and the stock; simmer for one hour, rub through a sieve; mix together the egg yolks, cream, and grated cheese, add to the soup and reheat, taking care that it does not boil.

Meanwhile prepare a savory custard as follows: Put half a cupful of stock and one tablespoonful of grated cheese into a small saucepan and bring to boiling point. Beat up two eggs with salt and pepper to taste, strain the stock to them, pour into one or two small buttered molds, stand in a pan of hot water, allowing the water to come within half an inch of the top of the molds; place in the oven, and when set turn out and allow to cool, cut into dice, divide into petites marmites, and pour over the soup.

OYSTER OR CLAM BISQUE

Put the clams into a casserole, slice the onion and the carrot, and add them with the bay leaf, parsley, and stock.

Simmer for one and a half hours, then strain; return to the casserole and add the needed salt and pepper.

Blend the butter and flour together and add them with enough cream to make two pints. Simmer for five minutes and add the wine when serving.

CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP

Put the stock into a fireproof pot, add the barley, onions, carrots, bay leaf and parsley and simmer for three hours.

When almost ready, add the yolks of the eggs mixed with the milk, wine, and seasonings. Press through a sieve and reheat.

Divide the hot peas into earthenware handled cups, pour over the soup, and serve very hot.

CREAM OF SALSIFY SOUP

Clean the salsify, throwing at once into cold water to prevent their turning dark. Put them into an earthenware dish with water to well cover and cook till very tender, then rub through a sieve.

Return to the casserole and add to the pulp two cupfuls of the milk, onion juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to season.

Have ready the remaining milk, thickened with the butter and the flour rubbed together, add to the salsify, and heat thoroughly.

Just before serving stir in the beaten yolks of the eggs mixed with the cream.

Pour into hot marmites. Have ready the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, put a spoonful of the egg on the top of each marmite, and sprinkle over the chopped pistachio nuts.

Serve hot.

FISH SOUP

Skin and fillet the fish. Put the fish bones, skin, and any other fish trimmings into an earthenware pot with the stock or water and the salt; bring to the boil and skim well, add the bay leaf, the onion, and celery cut into small pieces; simmer for one and a half hours; then strain. Melt the butter in the pan, add the flour, stir till smooth, then add the milk; allow this to boil for four minutes, add the soup, the parsley, and the fish cut into small pieces; season nicely, simmer for fifteen minutes, and serve hot.

FRUIT SOUP

Put one quart of the water into a fireproof utensil, add the cloves, cinnamon, lemon and orange peels, and the bitter almonds.

Allow to remain for one hour, then simmer for fifteen minutes.

Strain and return to the pan, add the tapioca and the remainder of the water, and simmer until clear; then add the sugar, salt, and fruit juice.

Serve hot.

Cherry, strawberry, currant, blackberry, or grape juice may be used for fruit soups.

GUMBO SOUP

Chop the onions and the garlic, roll them in the flour, then brown them in the butter, and add the tomatoes. Cut the heads off the okra, split each four times and cut into dice, add it to the tomatoes in the casserole, add the parsley, salt and pepper, and the celery, bacon, and ham chopped; brown all together.

Cut up the chicken and fry it for a few minutes, then add it with the stock, and simmer until thick.

Serve with plain boiled rice. One pint of cooked crab meat, cooked shrimps, or oysters, may be added with the chicken if liked.

LENTIL SOUP

Wash the lentils and put them to soak in cold water overnight. In the morning drain them and put them into an earthenware pan with the water, bring slowly to the boil, and skim well; then add the vegetables cut into small pieces, the mace, bay leaf, whole peppers, and bread, simmer for one and a half hours. Strain the soup, rubbing as much of the pulp through the sieve as possible.

Melt the butter in the pan, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil for four minutes. Add the soup, and season it nicely. Divide the cream into earthenware cups and pour the soup over it.

OYSTER BOUILLON

Put the oysters into a casserole, add the white stock, the onion and celery chopped, and the salt and pepper.

Simmer gently for one hour. Strain the soup, reheat it, and serve in earthenware bouillon cups with a tablespoonful of whipped cream on the top of each.

POTATO PURÉE

Boil the potatoes in their skins till tender, then cool and peel them. Cut them into quarters and put them into an earthenware pan with the two ounces of butter to brown just a very little in places.

Season with the salt and pepper, then add the stock, cream, and the onion juice.

Allow to boil up, and strain through a sieve; return the purée to the pan and stir into it the melted butter mixed with the flour.

Boil for three minutes and serve hot.

SCOTCH BROTH

Prepare the vegetables and cut them into small pieces. Put the water or stock into a large earthenware pan, and when it boils, add the meat and the barley. Boil up, skimming frequently, add the vegetables, and then simmer for three hours.

Now stir in one extra carrot grated, the salt and pepper, sugar and dripping. Simmer again for thirty minutes.

Add the parsley and the broth is ready to serve.

The mutton may be served separately with potatoes.

SHRIMP CHOWDER

Cook the onion in the salt pork fat. Melt the butter in a casserole, stir in the flour and seasoning, then add the milk very gradually and stir till boiling, allow to cook for five minutes, then add the shrimps and cook for twenty-five minutes; add the strained salt pork fat, the hot cream, and serve hot.

SOUP TO SERVE IN PETITES MARMITES

Remove the marrow from the bone. Saw the bone into inch lengths and put it into a large stoneware soup pot with the beef and the water.

Let it come slowly to boiling point, remove the scum, and set on a cool part of the stove to simmer for half an hour. Draw, truss, and roast the fowl for twenty minutes, then, when well browned, put it into the soup pot, adding the giblets well cleaned. Remove the beef and the chicken as soon as they are tender. Keep hot a part of the beef and a part of the breast of the chicken to serve in the petites marmites.

The remainder can be used for other dishes. Press the cloves into the onion and add it to the soup with the bay leaf, mace, whole peppers, carrot, turnip, and celery, cleansed and pared, and cut into neat pieces. Allow to simmer until the vegetables are tender. Remove the fat and strain the soup; add salt to taste and reheat it. Into each small soup pot put two pieces each of chicken, beef, and vegetables, and pour over them the soup. Place on the covers and serve with small pieces of toasted bread.

VEGETABLE SOUP

Cut the meat into small, neat slices; put it into a deep earthenware pan, sprinkle in the salt and pepper; add the tomatoes, sliced, the other vegetables all pared or scraped and cut into neat pieces, and the water. Cover tightly and cook slowly in the oven for two and a half hours.

If too thick, add a little boiling water before serving.

WHITE STOCK

Wipe the meat and cut it up into small pieces; and put it into a large marmite or casserole; add the bones and the water and bring slowly to boiling point; skim thoroughly, add the other ingredients, and simmer for four hours; strain through a fine sieve, and when cold remove the fat.

The fowl should be cleaned and added with the meat.

The bones may be boiled again for cheaper stock.

FISH RECIPES

“Why, then, the world’s mine oyster

Which I with sword will open.”

BAKED OYSTERS

Scald the oysters in their liquor, and put them aside to cool; then divide each oyster into four pieces.

Melt the butter, stir in the flour, then add gradually the milk and cream; stir until thickened, and add the seasonings, wine, and cheese. Butter sufficient octagon ramequins, put in a layer of the oysters, fill up with the sauce, pour a little melted butter over each, sprinkle some bread crumbs on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes.

COD À LA GARONNE

Rub a shallow fireproof dish with a cut clove of garlic, then lay in the fish and add the oil.

Bake in the oven, and when three parts cooked take out and sprinkle in the capers, anchovies, parsley, bread crumbs, salt, and paprika; divide the butter into tiny pieces, lay it on the top, and return it to the oven to brown and to finish cooking.

Serve hot in the casserole.

COLD MACKEREL, VINAIGRETTE

Clean the mackerel, leaving the head on, wrap it in a piece of cheesecloth, and boil in boiling salted water until tender.

The water should contain a little vinegar. Put the tarragon vinegar into a basin, add the mustard, salt, olive oil, parsley, shallots, gherkins, and capers. Remove the cloth from the fish, then lay the mackerel in an earthenware dish, pour the sauce over it and let it marinate thoroughly. It should be put into the refrigerator as soon as cool.

Serve cold in a bed of parsley garnished with slices of lemon.

CRAB À LA CARMEN

Boil the crab, then remove the meat from it. Put the oil into a casserole, add the crab meat, the shallot, and parsley; stir over the fire until quite hot; then add the bread crumbs, vinegar, chicken, cream, stock, and seasonings; fill some flange ramequins very full with the mixture, heaping them in the center; pour over each some of the white sauce, and sprinkle over the top the sieved hard cooked yolks of eggs.

Stand them in a pan containing a little boiling water on the stove until thoroughly hot, then serve.

Haddock and Macaroni

CURRIED FISH

Free the fish from skin and bones. Melt the butter in a fireproof dish, then put in the apple and the onion cut into small pieces, fry together until a nice brown color, then stir in the rice flour, curry powder, chutney, the strained juice of the lemon, salt, and stock; simmer for fifty minutes, then add the fish.

Arrange the hot boiled rice around a casserole, turn the curry into the center; garnish with the shrimps made hot in a little cream and quarters of the hard cooked eggs.

Serve very hot.

FINNAN HADDIE

Select a well-cured medium sized fish. If not well cured it will probably be tasteless and flabby. Wash it well, trim off the fins, the tail, and the two bones at the head.

Lay it in a buttered casserole, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, pour in enough boiling water to cover it, and allow it to simmer for ten minutes.

Drain it from the water, return it to the casserole with the butter, and cook it for ten minutes in the oven.

See that it is thoroughly cooked, but not hardened.

FISH SOUFFLÉ

Boil the potatoes and rub them through a sieve while they are hot; mix with them the butter, salt, paprika, anchovy extract, mustard, cream, fish, white bread crumbs, suet, parsley, and the whites of eggs beaten stiffly.

Mix carefully and turn into a well-buttered fireproof soufflé dish; sprinkle the top of the soufflé with the browned bread crumbs and here and there put a little bit of butter; place it on a baking tin and cook in a moderate oven for about forty minutes.

Serve at once.

FLOUNDER AU GRATIN

Clean and skin the fish. Salt and pepper both sides of the flounder, then lay it in a fireproof au gratin dish, sprinkle in the shallots and the parsley; add the butter divided into small pieces, the wine, and the layer of bread crumbs.

Let it cook in the oven for about half an hour.

HADDOCK AND MACARONI

Break the macaroni in pieces from one to one and a half inches long, put it into a pan of fast boiling, salted water, add the butter, and boil until it is tender without being in the least mashed; drain and wash the macaroni in a little hot water.

Heat the sauce in a fireproof dish, stir in the fish without breaking the flakes, and season it nicely with salt and pepper.

Arrange a border of the hot macaroni around a hot casserole, pile the fish and sauce in the middle.

Cut the tomatoes in quarters; cook them for a few minutes on a buttered baking tin, then arrange them round the fish. Cut the gherkins into shreds and place them in small heaps on the macaroni.

Heat in the oven for a few moments and serve hot.

HADDOCK AU GRATIN

Boil the haddock in boiling salted water with the two ounces of butter, seasoning of salt and pepper, and the strained juice of one lemon.

When it is ready remove the skin, put the fish into a buttered gratin dish, pour over it the melted butter, and sprinkle over it a little red pepper and lemon juice.

Cover it with the cheese and the buttered bread crumbs and put in a hot oven to brown.

Mix the potato flour with the cream, make hot, and pour over the fish just before sending to table.

Garnish with a thinly sliced lemon.

HALIBUT TIMBALE

Put the fish through a meat-chopper, add to it the parsley, salt, red pepper, whipped cream, and the whites of eggs stiffly beaten.

Mix carefully and turn into a well-buttered earthenware mold, cover, and steam steadily for half an hour.

Serve with egg sauce.

LOBSTER NEWBURG

Take the meat from a boiled lobster and cut it into dice; sauté it in the butter, then add the seasonings, sherry wine, and the yolks of eggs mixed with the cream.

Stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then remove it from the fire and serve at once in hot ramequins.

MACKEREL WITH TOMATOES

Cook the mackerel in the oven with the stock, sherry wine, herbs, lemon juice, and onion, cover with a buttered paper; when cooked, remove the skin, split the fish open, and remove the bones; butter a fireproof dish, lay in a layer of sliced tomatoes, a little salt and pepper, then a layer of fish and some tiny pieces of butter, repeat this until the fish is used; finally put a layer of sliced tomatoes on the top; pour over the stock in which the fish was cooked, cover with bread crumbs and some small pieces of butter, and cook in a moderate oven for twenty minutes; sprinkle the parsley over the top and serve at once.

OYSTER CURRY

Chop the onion and brown it in one tablespoonful of the butter in a casserole or earthenware dish, add the curry powder, the remaining tablespoonful of butter, the apple chopped, and the stock.

Simmer slowly for half an hour.

Put the oysters, their liquor, and the tomatoes into another pan over the fire. When the edges of the oysters begin to ruffle put the two mixtures together.

Add the salt, and thicken with the flour moistened with a little cold water. Boil for five minutes stirring constantly.

Serve with the hot plain boiled rice.

SCALLOPS EN CASSEROLE

Put the scallops and mushrooms into a casserole with one tablespoonful of the butter, cover, and let cook for ten minutes.

Peel and chop finely the onion and shallots, blanch them in water, and drain.

Put them into an earthenware pan with the remainder of the butter and cook until a light brown color; stir in the flour, mix for a few minutes over the fire, add the stock and scallop liquor, simmer for fifteen minutes, stirring in the yolks of eggs one at a time, season with salt, pepper, and a dust of red pepper, put in the scallops and mushrooms, and heat but do not boil; mix in the cream just before serving.

Garnish the top with the pieces of pastry.

STEWED EELS

Skin and divide the eels into pieces about two inches long, put them into a casserole with the stock, sliced onion, herbs, mace, lemon juice, parsley, and whole peppers. Bring to the boil, skim, and allow to simmer for twenty minutes; lift out the eels and strain the stock.

Melt the butter in the casserole, stir in the flour, add the liquid from the fish, the cream, and boil for five minutes, stirring all the time, then add the seasonings and the eels, allow to heat thoroughly, and serve.

Lobster Newburgh

For Ragout of Duck

STUFFED HERRINGS

Split the herrings up the back, remove the backbones, lay two herrings open on a buttered fireproof dish; mix together the bread crumbs, parsley, salt, pepper, egg well beaten, and one tablespoonful of the butter; lay this on the split herrings, place the other two on the top, sandwich fashion; put the remainder of the butter on the top, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes.

Serve with parsley sauce.

TERRAPIN STEW

Encourage the terrapin to move about in lukewarm water for a few minutes, then plunge head first into a pan of boiling water.

Remove from the water in about five minutes, or as soon as the thin white skin can be removed from the head and feet, then put back into fresh boiling water and simmer for forty minutes, or until the upper shell separates readily from the lower on a slight pressure. Drain, lay them on their backs, heads from you; then loosen the shells and take them off. Remove the sand bags, bladders, and the thick part of the intestines and the gall sacks, which are found embedded in one lobe of the liver, and throw them away. The meat is separated and the giblets cut up fine. Place all in a casserole and barely cover with boiling water. Simmer for half an hour, then add the dressing. Mash the egg yolks with the butter, then add the salt, pepper, flour, and cream. Stir until smooth and creamy, then add to the terrapin and simmer for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently. If too thick, reduce with a little boiling water. Add the wine and serve very hot.

TROUT WITH POTATOES

Boil the trout in boiling salted water for twenty minutes or until ready; when cold, bone it and flake it, and lay it in a well-buttered fireproof dish; bring the milk and parsley to the boil and pour them over the fish; boil the potatoes, then mash them with the butter, cream, salt, and pepper, spread them over the fish, smooth the surface, then mark it in fancy design with a fork; place the casserole in a hot oven for ten minutes. Remove it from the oven, beat up the white of the egg stiffly, brush it over the top of the potatoes, and continue to bake for fifteen minutes. Serve hot with the oyster sauce. The sauce may be served in an earthenware gravy boat.

POULTRY AND GAME RECIPES

“O: dainty duck,

With wings as swift as meditation”

CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE NO. 1

Singe and draw the chicken, then truss it as for boiling, have ready a casserole large enough to hold the bird whole; line it with the bacon, put in the chicken, sprinkle in salt, pepper, and the onion chopped fine. Then arrange round the chicken the tomatoes skinned, the celery, mushrooms and walnuts chopped, and the bay leaf; add the stock, place the casserole in the oven, let it cook gently for one and a half hours, basting the chicken frequently.

When ready, remove the bay leaf, brown and thicken the gravy with the arrowroot, leave all the vegetables in the gravy with the chicken, and serve hot in the casserole.

A turkey may also be prepared in this way.

CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE NO. 2

Singe, draw and cut the fowl into neat joints, removing the skin and as many small bones as possible.

Heat the oil in a frying-pan, lay in a few pieces of chicken at a time, and fry until the meat looks white on each side. Turn frequently but do not let them brown.

Take out and drain on paper. Add a little more oil if necessary, until all the pieces have been cooked. Blend the butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire: when smooth stir in the stock, and continue stirring until it cooks for five minutes.

Add the kitchen bouquet and the seasonings. Strain the sauce into a casserole, add the chicken, arranging the pieces so that they are level at the top, cover closely with a sheet of buttered paper, and put on the casserole lid. Cook in a moderate oven for an hour or until ready. About fifteen minutes before serving uncover and add the oysters scalded and cut into halves.

CHICKENS WITH OLIVES

Prepare the chickens and cut them into joints, then put them in a casserole with the water, salt, pepper, and onion.

Cook slowly till tender. Lift out the pieces of chicken and drain and dry them, then fry them in the butter till they are brown.

Stir the flour into the casserole, add a pint of the water in which the chickens were cooked, the olives, chopped, capers, and seasoning of salt and pepper.

When quite smooth add the chickens and serve when hot.

GOOSE DEVILED EN CASSEROLE

After cleaning the goose and wiping it well with a damp cloth, plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil gently for one hour. Take it from the saucepan, drain well, and wipe it very dry.

Fill the body and neck with potato stuffing, truss and sew up, lay it in an earthenware pan, and roast in a very hot oven, allowing twenty minutes to every pound.

Mix the vinegar, pepper, and mustard together, pour them over the goose, and baste it frequently. An old goose that can be cooked in no other way may be so dressed, two hours being allowed for the boiling instead of one hour.

To make the potato stuffing: Cook one chopped onion in a quarter of a cupful of salt pork cubes until brown, then add two cupfuls of hot mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste, half a teaspoonful of poultry seasoning, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one cupful of cooked sausages cut in pieces. Mix thoroughly, then stuff the goose with the mixture.

GUINEA FOWL EN CASSEROLE

Draw and truss the guinea fowl; then put it into a casserole with sufficient hot water to cover, then bring to the boil, and simmer gently until the bird is cooked. Take it up and let it cool.

Measure half a pint of the water the guinea fowl was boiled in. Put this into a pan with the milk, add the onion, mace, carrot, herbs, celery, whole peppers, and the stock; bring slowly to boiling point; then simmer for ten minutes.

Melt the butter, stir in the flour, then stir in the boiling stock. Cook slowly for ten minutes, season with salt and pepper, add the cream.

Cut the guinea fowl into neat joints. Put these into a casserole, strain the sauce over, put it on the fire, and heat up; make quite hot without boiling.

Serve in the casserole.

JUGGED HARE

Skin the hare after taking out the inside, wipe the hare thoroughly, but do not wash it, cut it into neat joints, dust a little flour over them, and fry them in smoking hot fat till browned. Drain them and put them into an earthenware jar with the vegetables cut into small pieces, the bay leaf, lemon rind, mace, clove, allspices, salt and pepper; fill up the jar with boiling stock, let it simmer for two or three hours, according to the size of the hare; when cooked, take out the pieces of hare, warm them to prevent their getting dry; mix the flour with the water, add it to the blood and the pounded liver, thicken the gravy with it, stir in the jelly, sauce, ketchup, lemon juice, and wine, strain on to the hare in a casserole, put in the forcemeat balls that have been fried in smoking hot fat; heat and serve.

QUAILS EN CASSEROLE

Prepare and truss the quails. Melt the butter in an earthenware pan; when hot, put in the birds, and brown them all over.

Cover with the lid, and put into a moderate oven till ready.

Lift out the quails and keep hot. Drain the fat from the pan, add the stock, wine, and orange rind.

Simmer for ten minutes, then stir in the jelly. Put in the quails for ten minutes; season with salt, pepper, and the strained lemon juice.

Before serving remove the orange rind and add the cherries.

Serve hot.

RABBIT EN CASSEROLE

Skin and joint the rabbits, then put them into an earthenware pan, add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaf, dripping, and cold water.