MY KNITTING BOOK (SECOND SERIES)

Transcriber’s Note

Variant spelling is retained, however a few changes have been made to punctuation and spacing to make formatting consistent.

Other changes are listed in the note at the [end of this book].

MY KNITTING BOOK (SECOND SERIES)
BY MISS LAMBERT
AUTHORESS OF THE HAND-ROOK OF NEEDLEWORK, CHURCH NEEDLEWORK, MY CROCHET SAMPLER, ETC.
TWENTY-THIRD THOUSAND.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1847.


Shortly will be published, by the same Authoress,
Uniform with the present work, and illustrated with Engravings,
price 1s. 6d.
AN ENTIRELY NEW WORK ON
CROCHET,
Forming a Second Series of “My Crochet Sampler.”


Just published,
BY THE SAME AUTHORESS,
A Fifth and cheaper Edition, price 6s. 6d.
THE HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK
DECORATIVE AND ORNAMENTAL,
INCLUDING ENTIRELY NEW PATTERNS IN CROCHET,
KNITTING AND NETTING,
ILLUSTRATED BY 150 ENGRAVINGS.


PREFACE.


Second Series.


The following examples of Knitting—like those in the former Series—have been selected with the greatest care; adhering to the same technical terms, and mode of arrangement.

The writer cannot but feel flattered with the reception given to the First Series of “My Knitting Book,” and also to her other volumes on Decorative Needlework:—and she deems that their general correctness and utility are proved by the translations made of them into the Continental languages, and by their verbatim republication in America.

Since the publication of the first edition of the present series, the whole of the examples have been carefully reworked, and the faults of the first impressions have been corrected; yet, it is not to be wondered at, in a work of this description, that errors—notwithstanding every precaution—should occasionally creep in. Hence the writer will be much indebted for corrections of any mistakes that may be discovered by ladies using these books; she cannot, however, attend to anonymous communications, or to such as relate to supposable errors arising from misunderstanding on the part of the Knitter.

3, New Burlington Street,
Regent Street.


CONTENTS.


Second Series.


PAGE
INTRODUCTION[9]
EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN KNITTING[10]
THE STANDARD FILIÈRE[15]
CABLE PLAIT STITCH FOR A QUILT[16]
CENTRE FOR A QUILT, OR BASSINET COVER[17]
BORDER FOR A QUILT, OR BASSINET COVER[18]
A QUILT IN RAISED STRIPES[20]
A BABY’S QUILT IN STRIPES OF ALTERNATE COLOURS[21]
ANOTHER QUILT[22]
A CARRIAGE SOCK[22]
A LADY’S TRAVELLING CAP[25]
A BABY’S HOOD IN PLAIN KNITTING[30]
A WARM SQUARE SHAWL[31]
A SHAWL IN RAISED KNITTING[32]
A VANDYKE EDGING[34]
INSERTION LEAF PATTERN FOR TIDIES[36]
VANDYKE AND OPEN PATTERN FOR A TIDY, ETC.[38]
OPEN STRIPE PATTERN FOR A TIDY, ETC.[39]
ANOTHER TIDY[40]
FEATHER PATTERN FOR A TIDY[41]
SMALL ROSE-LEAF PATTERN FOR A TIDY[42]
POINT DE L’ECHELLE FOR A TIDY, ETC.[43]
A FISH OR BASKET NAPKIN[45]
FERN PATTERN FISH NAPKIN[47]
OPEN PATTERN FOR A SMALL QUILT[49]
PRETTY OPEN STITCH FOR A BAG[49]
A NEW PENCE JUG, OR PURSE[50]
AN EASY STITCH FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES[53]
A CHANCELIÈRE[54]
A WARM HALF SQUARE SHAWL[56]
FRINGE FOR A SHAWL[57]
A SET OF TWELVE BORDERED D’OYLEYS[58]
A BORDER FOR EACH D’OYLEY[60]
I.—WILLOW PATTERN[61]
II.—MOSAIC PATTERN[63]
III.—CABLE PATTERN[66]
IV.—SCALLOP PATTERN[67]
V.—WEDGE PATTERN[72]
VI.—ZIGZAG PATTERN[76]
VII.—DIAPER PATTERN[80]
VIII.—TRELLIS PATTERN[81]
IX.—PAGODA PATTERN[83]
X.—CHECK PATTERN[85]
XI.—ROCKET PATTERN[86]
XII.—FAN PATTERN[87]
A WARM HABIT SHIRT[89]
A SOFA PILLOW IN RAISED LOOPS[93]
NEW CROSS-STITCH PATTERN[95]
BORDER FOR A QUILT[96]
OLIVE LEAF PATTERN BAG[97]
PINE APPLE PATTERN BAG[101]
A BABY’S BONNET[103]
A POLKA RIDING, OR YACHT, JACKET[104]
A MUFF[108]
A GENTLEMAN’S STRONG PURSE[109]
ŒILLET PATTERN PURSE[109]
ANOTHER STRONG PURSE[110]
STAR PATTERN FOR SHETLAND KNITTING[111]
LEAF PATTERN FOR SHETLAND KNITTING[113]
AN EDGING[116]
ANOTHER EDGING[118]
AN INSERTION[118]
A CARRIAGE BOLSTER[119]
A DEEP AND HANDSOME BORDER[121]
ANOTHER PRETTY SHETLAND PATTERN[122]

Miss Lambert’s Standard Filière, which is Copyright, may be procured at every respectable Wool Warehouse in the kingdom.


MY KNITTING BOOK.


SECOND SERIES.


Introduction.

It has been justly observed that, “an art cannot be taught but by its proper terms.” In the art of knitting, various terms have been employed—whether correctly, or not, it is here needless to inquire—to designate the same simple process. Confusion has necessarily been the result. Those who are accustomed to follow the technicalities of one writer on knitting, are not unfrequently perplexed to comprehend the directions of another, however clearly and concisely they may be laid down. Hence, in the first series of the present treatises, the writer confined herself to the use of the technical terms most generally employed by adepts in the art, and which appeared to be those most easy of comprehension. The following directions, therefore, will be conveyed in the same phraseology; but, for ease of reference, and for the use of those who may not possess the former series, it has been deemed expedient to repeat the—

Explanation of Terms used in Knitting.

To cast on.—To make the first interlacement of the thread on the needle.

To cast off.—To knit two stitches, and to pass the first over the second, and so on, to the last stitch, which is to be secured by drawing the thread through.

To pearl.—To knit a stitch with the thread before the needle.

To narrow.—To lessen, by knitting two stitches together.

To widen.—To increase by making a stitch, bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting the same when it occurs.

A Turn.—Two rows in the same stitch, backwards and forwards.

A Row.—The stitches from one end of the needle to the other.

A Round.—A row, when the stitches are on two, three, or more needles.

A plain Row.—That composed of simple knitting.

To pearl a Row.—To knit with the thread before the needle.

To rib.—To work alternate rows of plain, and pearl, knitting.

To bring the thread forward.—To make a stitch, by bringing the thread forward, after a knitted stitch.

To pass the thread over.—To make a stitch, by passing the thread over the needle, after a pearled stitch.

To make a stitch.—If after a knitted stitch, this is done by bringing the thread forward;—if after a pearled stitch,—by passing the thread over.—To make a stitch between two pearled stitches, the thread must be turned round the needle; that is,—passed over the needle, and brought again in front; but, to make a stitch between a pearled stitch and a knitted stitch,—the thread must only be passed over the needle.

To turn the thread round the needle.—If the thread is before the needle, to pass it over the needle, and bring it again in front.

To bring the thread forward twice.—To bring the thread forward, and then, by turning it round the needle, to bring it forward again.

To increase.—To make a stitch.

To decrease.—To knit two stitches, taken together, in one.

To knit two together.—To knit two stitches, taken together, in one.

Knitting and pearling in the same row.—When the stitch, next after a pearled stitch, is to be knitted, it is obvious that the thread must be passed back under the needle, before this can be done;—in like manner, when a stitch is to be pearled, after a knitted stitch, the thread must be brought in front under the needle;—processes, however, very different from those of passing the thread over, and bringing the thread forward, both of which are for the purpose of making a stitch, and are done above the needle.

To slip, or pass a stitch.—To change it from one needle to the other, without knitting it.

To fasten on.—The best way to fasten on, is to place the two ends contrariwise, and knit a few stitches with both together: but, when knitting with silk, or fine cotton, a weaver’s knot will be found the best.

A Loop Stitch.—Made by bringing the thread before the needle, which, in knitting the succeeding stitch, will again take its own place.

Pearl, seam, and rib-stitch.—All signify the same.

It appears almost unnecessary to observe that, in some of the directions, in order to avoid repetition, the following mode of abbreviation has been adopted.—When a part of a row, or round, only is to be repeated, it is separated from the preceding part, by a letter of the alphabet, inserted in smaller type, between two brackets; thus,—repeat from (a) signifies that the part placed next after (a) alone is to be repeated. Further, to prevent confusion, when it was necessary to employ such an abbreviation more than once in the same directions, the other letters of the alphabet, in a similar manner, have been taken in their order of succession.

N.B. The sizes of the needles are given according to the Standard Filière.

It is necessary, in giving or following directions for knitting, to caution knitters to observe a medium in their work—not knitting either too loosely or too tightly.

The Standard Filière.

[THE STANDARD FILIÈRE.]

The above engraving represents the Standard Filière, or knitting and netting needle guage, an instrument invented some time since by Miss Lambert, and now in general use, by which the different sizes of knitting and netting needles can be ascertained with the greatest accuracy.


Cable Plait Stitch for a Quilt.

This forms a very warm quilt. It may be made in stripes or bands, of about seven inches in width, each band containing four repetitions of the pattern.—Three needles, No. 1, will be required, one of which must be pointed at either end.

Cast on forty-two stitches with nine-thread fleecy.

First row—knit two;(a) pearl six; knit four.—Repeat from ([a]).

Second row—pearl four;(b) pass three stitches on to the double-pointed needle; knit the next three stitches; knit the three stitches that were passed on to the third needle; pearl four.—Repeat from ([b]).

Third row—knit two;(c) pearl six; knit four.—Repeat from ([c]).

Fourth row—pearl four;(d) knit six; pearl four.—Repeat from ([d]).

Fifth row—knit two;(e) pearl six; knit four.—Repeat from ([e]).

Sixth row—pearl four;(f) knit six; pearl four.—Repeat from ([f]).

Seventh row—knit two;(g) pearl six; knit four.—Repeat from ([g]).

Commence again, as at [second row].


Centre for a Quilt, or Bassinet Cover.

This may be knitted with two colours—say white and shaded pink.—Needles, No. 7.—Cast on any even number of stitches with eight-thread Zephyr fleecy.

N.B. The first and last stitches of every row are to be knitted plain. The colour should be changed in every fourth, or pearled, row.

First row—knit two together.

Second row—make one between each stitch, by taking up the wool between the stitches of the preceding row, except between the two last stitches.

Third row—plain knitting.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Commence again, as at [first row].


Border for a Quilt, or Bassinet Cover.

This forms a very pretty border for the preceding centre pattern; the corners are so arranged that they can be joined correctly, when worked in four pieces of the requisite length.—Zephyr fleecy.—Needles, No. 7.

The same colours as the centre may be used. Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by nine, and one over—white.

N.B. At the end of each pattern row,—bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward; then, finish the same (reversed) as at the commencement.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—coloured,—knit three together; knit six;(a) bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward, knit two; knit two together, twice; knit two.—Repeat from ([a]).

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—knit three together; knit five;(b) bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward, knit two; knit two together, twice; knit two.—Repeat from ([b]).

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Sixth row—knit three together; knit four;(c) bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward, knit two; knit two together, twice; knit two.—Repeat from ([c]).

Seventh row—pearl knitting,—white.

Eighth row—pearl knitting,—white.

Ninth row—plain knitting,—white.

Tenth row—plain knitting,—coloured.

Eleventh row—pearl three together; pearl three;(d) turn the wool round the needle, pearl one; turn the wool round the needle, pearl two; pearl two together, twice; pearl two.—Repeat from ([d]).

Twelfth row—plain knitting.

Thirteenth row—pearl three together; pearl two;(e) turn the wool round the needle, pearl one; turn the wool round the needle, pearl two; pearl two together, twice; pearl two.—Repeat from ([e]).

Fourteenth row—plain knitting.

Fifteenth row—pearl knitting,—white.

Sixteenth row—pearl knitting,—white.

Seventeenth row—plain knitting,—white.


A Quilt in Raised Stripes.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three.—Eight-thread fleecy, two colours—say pink and white.—Needles, No. 1, pointed at both ends.

First row—with pink,—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two together.—Repeat.

Second row—with white,—same as first.

Third row—with pink,—commence from the other end of the needle, pearl two together; slip one; turn the wool round the needle.—Repeat.—Finish with—turn the wool round the needle, pearl one.

Fourth row—with white,—same as third.

Commence again, as at [first row].


A Baby’s Quilt in Stripes of alternate Colours.

This is worked in separate stripes, and afterwards sewn together by the loops formed on either side of the pattern. About nine stripes, each twenty-seven inches long, will be required. It is prettiest in pink and white, or pale blue and white.

Cast on twelve stitches for each stripe.—Six-thread fleecy.—Short needles, No. 8.

First row—bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit two.—Repeat.

Every row is the same.

Another Quilt.

This pattern may be worked in pink, and white, nine-thread fleecy.—Needles No. 2.—Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three.

First row—with white,—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two, pass the slip-stitch over them.—Repeat.

Second row—with pink,—pearl knitting.

Third row—the same as the first, with pink.

It is not necessary to break off the wool, as it may be passed from row to row. The colour is always to be changed in the pearled row.


A Carriage Sock.

This sock is intended to be drawn over the shoe; it will be found very elastic, warm, and comfortable, fitting close both to the foot and ankle.

Four needles, No. 23.—German wool,—two colours may be used,—say scarlet and black.—Cast on loosely one hundred and forty stitches, viz.—fifty on each of two needles, and forty on the third.

Knit twenty-five rounds with black,—two stitches, alternately, pearl and plain.

Knit twenty-three similar rounds with scarlet.

Knit twenty-three similar rounds with black.

Knit thirty-four similar rounds, commencing with scarlet; but decreasing on each round,—by pearling two; and knitting two together, taken at the back, at the commencement of each round; and knitting the last two stitches together, in the front;—when seventy-two stitches only will remain on the needles.

Knit fifty rounds, as at the [commencement].

N.B. Every twenty-three rounds should be alternately black and scarlet; hence the sock will be formed of three stripes of black, and three of scarlet, of an equal width, finished at the top with a half stripe of black. The widest part, which forms the bottom or foot of the sock, should be sewn, or loosely knitted, up. A leathern sole, if desired, may afterwards be attached. This sock, although when in the hand it does not exhibit much form, when drawn over the foot will be found to fit exactly to its shape.

Remarks.—The above directions are for a full-sized lady’s sock. If larger needles and coarser wool be employed, the knitting will be still more elastic, and a fewer number of stitches will be required. The same directions, with a change of material, are equally adapted for a large loose night, or bath, sock. With a fewer number of stitches, but observing the same relative proportions throughout, most comfortable and warm leggings, for drawing over infants’ shoes, may be made, which are not apt either to roll over, or slip off.


A Travelling Cap.

This cap may be knitted with double German wool, in five shades of any light colour, and white.—Needles, No. 8.

Cast on one hundred and two stitches, with the darkest shade of colour.—Knit one plain row to form an edge. Then, commence the pattern (formed of four rows) as follows.

N.B. The first stitch of each row is always to be knitted.

First row—knit two together.

Second row—make one between each stitch, by taking up the wool between the stitches of the preceding row;—except between the two last stitches.

Third row—plain knitting.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.—The change of shade is always to be made in this row.

Repeat the above, four times, taking a lighter shade of wool for each pattern. Then work one pattern in white,—and repeat the five coloured patterns, reversing the shades, by commencing with the lightest. The fourth row of the eleventh pattern is to be omitted, in place of which one row must be pearled in white,—in order to bring the knitting on the outer side of the cap.

The front, or roll part, is now completed, which, when the cap is finished, should be turned over from the centre pattern of white.

Knit one pattern in white, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end of the fourth row.—Knit a second pattern, the same, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end of the first row; and, in the succeeding rows, making a stitch between the last two stitches; also, at the end of the second row, leaving twenty-two stitches unknit; and, at the ends of the third, and fourth, rows, leaving twenty-six stitches unknit.

Knit a third pattern in white, leaving twenty-six stitches unknit at the end of the first three rows; but, in the fourth row, pearl all the stitches to the end of the needle.

Knit a fourth pattern in white;—in the first row of this, knit all the stitches to the other end of the needle; but, at the end of the third row, leave twenty stitches unknit. Pearl the fourth row, with the third shade of the coloured wool, leaving twenty stitches unknit, at the end.

Knit three more patterns in colours,—(the centre being darker than the other two) leaving one stitch more unknit, at the end of each row. The fourth row of the third pattern is to be pearled in white.

Knit seven patterns in white, leaving one stitch unknit at the end of each row; and also, omitting to make a stitch between the first two, and last two, stitches of the second row.

When the seventh pattern is completed, there should be only eight stitches on the needle: with these eight, knit one pattern; and, at the end of the pearled row, pass the last stitch, before knitting, on to the other needle; then knit it, together with two of those before left unknit,—three in one.

Proceed in the like manner, at the end of the next, or double stitch row, and continue the same, until seven patterns are finished, from the above eight stitches.

Before commencing the last pearled row, fasten on the third shade of coloured wool, and pearl to the end of the row. Then, knit the last stitch, together with three of the unknit stitches,—four in one. Repeat the same, at the end of the next row.

In the next pearled row, knit again four together, as above, and three single stitches beyond, at the end of the double stitch row: also, knit four together, and one single, and two double beyond.

When two patterns, in the third shade, are completed, fasten on the white wool, and pearl a row;—at the end of this, knit three single stitches of the unknit beyond. In the next row,—knit, alternately, a double and a single stitch, throughout the row;—knitting the last stitch, together with one row of the unknit, and two single ones beyond.

In the next row, make a stitch between each, as usual; and, at the end of the next pearled row, knit three single stitches beyond. Work the three next rows as follows:

First—three double, and one single stitch, alternately:—the last must be a double stitch, and a single stitch beyond.

Second—a stitch between each, and three single stitches beyond.

Third—plain knitting, and three single stitches beyond.

Before commencing the next pearled row, fasten on the darkest coloured wool; knit a pattern quite to the end of each needle, and fasten off,—omitting the pearled row.

The cord for tieing this cap may be made by plaiting one light-coloured, and two dark-coloured, threads of wool together; each thread consisting of four plies of German wool. One cord passes across the front of the cap, under the chin, and another round the caul, with a bow at the side: the ends finishing with a tassel of white wool.—Ribands, which are prettier, may be substituted.


A Baby’s Hood in Plain Knitting.

Needles, No. 2.—Double German wool.

Cast on fifty stitches.—Knit eighty plain rows; sixty of which are to be rolled up to form the front.

Sew together three inches of the cast-on part; and draw up the remainder for the crown.

Cast on fifty stitches for the hood, and work forty plain rows.

When finished, it may be lined with white silk or satin, and trimmed with narrow satin riband.


A warm square Shawl.

Eight-thread fleecy, two colours, say scarlet and drab.—Needles, No. 1.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by four, with scarlet.

First row—Knit two; knit two together;(a) bring the wool forward, knit two; knit two together.—Repeat from ([a]).—Finish with—bring the wool forward, knit four.

Second row—pearl two; pearl two together;(b) turn the wool round the needle, pearl two; pearl two together.—Repeat from ([b]).—Finish with—turn the wool round the needle, pearl four.

Work four other similar rows, making altogether six rows,—with scarlet.

Seventh row—with drab,—knit two;(c) bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit two.—Repeat from ([c]).—Finish with—bring the wool forward, knit two together.

Eighth row—pearl two;(d) turn the wool round the needle, pearl two together; pearl two.—Repeat from ([d]).—Finish with—turn the wool round the needle, pearl two together.

Work four other rows, similar to the two last, with drab; then, commence again, as at [first row], with scarlet.


A Shawl in Raised Knitting.

The centre may be worked in violet, or dark claret: the border in eight shades of stone colour, including the extreme shades—black and white.—German wool.—Two needles, No. 16, and one needle, No. 10.

Commence with the border, by casting on four hundred and eighty stitches, with black. Work two patterns in each shade of colour, decreasing, by knitting two together, at the beginning of each row, except on the first four;—when four hundred and twenty stitches will remain on the needle for the centre of the shawl.

With the violet or claret wool, work a square of four hundred and twenty stitches, to form the centre. Then,—

Commence the opposite border, with the white shade of stone colour, increasing on every row, except on the last four; and reversing the shades of colour, so as to form a similar border to the first.

Two side borders, in separate pieces, are now to be worked in the manner first described. These are afterwards to be sewn on;—the decreasing having formed an angle, that admits of the right shades of colour joining correctly.

Each pattern of the raised knitting is composed of four rows, which are worked as follows;—

First row—with small needle,—bring the wool forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Second row—with large needle,—plain knitting.

Third row—with small needle,—plain knitting.

Fourth row—with small needle,—pearl knitting.


A Vandyke Edging.

Cast on twelve stitches.—Needles, No. 26.—Cotton, No. 20.

First row—slip one; knit two; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; bring the cotton forward twice, knit two together; knit five.

Second row—slip one; knit six; pearl one; knit two; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit one.

Third row—slip one; knit two; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit two; bring the cotton forward twice, knit two together; knit four.

Fourth row—slip one; knit five; pearl one; knit four; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit one.

Fifth row—slip one; knit two; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit four; bring the cotton forward twice, knit two together; knit three.

Sixth row—slip one; knit four; pearl one; knit six; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit one.

Seventh row—slip one; knit two; bring the cotton forward; knit two together; knit ten.

Eighth row—slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit one, pass the stitch over it; knit one, pass the stitch over it; knit eight; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit one.

Commence again, as at [first row].


Insertion Leaf-Pattern for Tidies

Cast on twenty-one stitches for each pattern.—Needles, No. 18—Cotton, No. 14.

First row—knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit two together, taken at the back; knit three; pearl one; knit three; knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; knit one.

Second row—knit three; pearl one; knit one; pearl one; turn the thread round the needle, pearl two together; pearl two; knit one; pearl two; pearl two together; turn the thread round the needle, pearl one; knit one; pearl one; knit three.

Third row—knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together, taken at the back; knit one; pearl one; knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; knit one.

Fourth row—knit three; pearl one; knit one; pearl three; turn the thread round the needle, pearl two together; knit one; pearl two together; turn the thread round the needle, pearl three; knit one; pearl one; knit three.

Fifth row—knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; knit four; bring the thread forward, knit three together; bring the thread forward, knit four; knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together; knit one.

Sixth row—knit three; pearl one; knit one; pearl five; knit one; pearl five; knit one; pearl one: knit three.

Commence again, as at [first row].

A very pretty insertion may be made, by knitting one pattern only of the above.


Vandyke and Open Pattern for a Tidy, etc.

Cast on twelve stitches for each pattern, and six, for the three edge stitches on either side.—Needles, No. 18.—Cotton, No. 14.

N.B. To prevent confusion, the edge stitches are omitted in the directions.

First row—knit one; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times; knit three.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times; knit two.—Repeat.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Fifth row—knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times; knit one.—Repeat.

Sixth row—pearl knitting.

Seventh row—knit four; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times.—Repeat.

Eighth row—pearl knitting.

Ninth row—knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times; knit one.—Repeat.

Tenth row—pearl knitting.

Eleventh row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together,—four times; knit two.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—pearl knitting.

Commence again, as at [first row].


Open Stripe Pattern for a Tidy, etc.

Cast on twenty-four stitches for each pattern.—Needles, No. 18.—Cotton, No. 14.

First row—knit two together,—four times; bring the thread forward, knit one,—seven times; bring the thread forward, knit two together; knit two together,—three times; knit one.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Repeat these two rows, until a piece be worked of the required size; then,—finish by casting off every twenty-three stitches, and dropping every twenty-fourth stitch, to form the open stripe.


Another Tidy.

Cast on six stitches for each pattern, and four, for two edge stitches on either side.—Needles, No. 18.—Cotton, No. 14.

N.B. To prevent confusion, the edge stitches are omitted in the directions.

First row—knit two together; knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Repeat these two rows, three times.

Ninth row—knit three;(a) bring the thread forward, knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two together.—Repeat from ([a]).

Tenth row—pearl knitting.

Repeat the last two rows, twice; and commence again, as at [first row].


Feather Pattern for a Tidy.

Cast on nineteen stitches for each pattern, and four over, for two stitches at each edge.—Needles, No. 22.—Cotton, No. 18.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—bring the thread forward, knit one,—three times; knit two together,—three times; knit one; knit two together,—three times; bring the thread forward, knit one,—three times.—Repeat.

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Commence again, as at [second row].


Small Rose-leaf Pattern for a Tidy.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by six, adding four stitches over, to keep the pattern even at the beginning and end.—Needles, No. 18.—Cotton, No. 14.

First row—knit one; knit two together, taken at the back;(a) bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; knit one.—Repeat from ([a]).—Finish with—bring the thread forward, knit two together.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—knit two;(b) bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them.—Repeat from ([b]).—Finish with—bring the thread forward, knit three.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Fifth row—knit two;(c) bring the thread forward, knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit one.—Repeat from ([c]).—Finish with—bring the thread forward, knit two together, taken at the back.

Sixth row—pearl knitting.

Seventh row—knit two together; knit one;(d) bring the thread forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; bring the thread forward, knit three.—Repeat from ([d]).—Finish with—bring the thread forward, knit three.

Eighth row—pearl knitting.

Commence again, as at [first row].