DRESSED GAME AND POULTRY

DRESSED GAME AND POULTRY
À LA MODE

BY
MRS DE SALIS

AUTHORESS OF 'SAVOURIES À LA MODE' 'ENTRÉES À LA MODE'
'SOUPS AND DRESSED FISH À LA MODE' 'OYSTERS À LA MODE'
'SWEETS À LA MODE' AND 'VEGETABLES À LA MODE'

'One loves the pheasant wing
And one the leg'
Pope

LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
AND NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
1888
All rights reserved

PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON

PREFACE.

At this the sporting season of the year, I venture to offer to the public another of my little series in the form of Dressed Game and Poultry. No doubt many of the recipes are well known, but it has been my aim to collect from all the culinary preserves such recipes that from personal experience I know to be good. All the known and unknown tomes on the gourmet's art have been consulted, and I have to thank the authors for this assistance to my work, as well as those cordons bleus from whom I have practically learnt some few of them.

I shall be very pleased to correspond with any of my readers who may wish to discourse on matters relative to the dinner table and its adjuncts, floral decorations among the number.

H. A. DE SALIS.

Hampton Lea, Sutton,
Surrey, 1888.

DRESSED GAME AND POULTRY

À LA MODE.

Blackbird Pie.

Stuff the birds with the crumb of a French roll soaked in a little milk, which put in a stewpan with 1-1/2 ounces of butter, a chopped shalot, some parsley, pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolks of two small eggs. Stir over the fire till it becomes a thick paste, and fill the insides of the birds with it. Line the bottom of the pie-dish with fried collops of rump steak, and place the birds on them neatly. Add four hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and pour gravy all over, cover with puff paste, and bake for one hour and a quarter.

Blanquette of Chicken.

Cut the meat from a cold boiled fowl, in small pieces. Stew down the bones in one pint of water, a bouquet garni, add a little salt and white pepper to taste. Then strain the stock, add to it three or four peeled mushrooms finely minced, and let them cook in this sauce; when done put in the pieces of fowl to warm through, thicken with the yolks of two eggs. Add lemon juice and serve hot.

Blanquette of Chicken aux Concombres.

Boil a chicken and cut it into neat joints. Cut a cucumber in pieces and fry in butter, put them in a little stock, which reduce; have reduced half a pint of velouté sauce with a few trimmings of cucumber in it. Pour this through a tammy over the fowls, set it on the fire, and as soon as it bubbles add a liaison of three yolks of eggs, work in a little butter and lemon juice, drain the pieces of cucumber in a cloth, throw them in, and serve them in an open vol au vent, garnished with flowers of puff paste.

Capilotade of Fowl or Turkey.

Take the remains of a cold fowl or turkey, and cut it into neat joints. Chop up three or four mushrooms, some parsley, a shalot, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and let all fry together for a short time; then moisten with a little good-flavoured stock, and thicken with flour. Add salt to taste, let the sauce boil well, put in the pieces of bird for a few minutes; take them out, arrange them on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.

Chicken à la Bonne Femme.

Cut up a chicken into joints, warm up three onions and three turnips in butter; when brown add the pieces of fowl. Season with salt and pepper, sauté over the fire for ten minutes. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and five minutes after add a tumblerful of stock, a wineglass of white wine, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and half a pound of peeled tomatoes, with all the pips carefully removed. Cook over a slow fire for twenty-five minutes, add about half a pound of mushrooms peeled and cut up to the size of a shilling, leave it on the fire for ten minutes; take out the bouquet of herbs, season with an ounce of finely-chopped parsley, dish up the pieces of chicken in a pyramid, and pour the sauce and vegetables over.

Braised Drumsticks of Chicken.

Braise the drumsticks, and arrange them uprightly in tent fashion, and all around and between the drumsticks should be finely chopped salad. Alternate slices of tongue and ham should be placed at the edge of the salad, and the border of the dish ornamented with thin rounds of beetroot.

Chickens Chiringrate.

Cut off the feet of a chicken, break the breastbone flat, but be careful not to break the skin. Flour it and fry it in butter, drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chicken in. Make a farce from half a pound of fillet of beef, half a pound of veal, ten ounces of cooked ham, a shalot, a bouquet garni, and a piece of carrot, pepper, and salt; cook in stock, and then pass it through a sieve, and lay this farce over the chicken. After stewing the chicken for a quarter of an hour, make a rich gravy from the stock, and add a few mushrooms and two spoonfuls of port wine; boil all up well, and pour over and around the chicken.

Chicken à la Continental.

Beat up two eggs with butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; then cut up the fowls, dip them in the egg paste, and roll them in crumbs and fried parsley. Fry in clarified dripping, and pour over the dish any white or green vegetable ragoût, made hot; grate Parmesan over all.

Chicken à la Davenport.

Stuff a fowl with a forcemeat made of the hearts and livers, an anchovy, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, one onion, a little spice, and a little shred veal-kidney fat. Sew up the neck and vent, brown the fowl in the oven, then stew it in stock till tender. Serve with white mushroom sauce.

Chicken à l'Italienne.

Pass a knife under the skin of the back, and cut out the backbone without injuring the skin or breaking off the rump, draw out the breastbone and break the merrythought; flatten the fowl and put two skewers through it. Put it into a marinade of oil, sliced onion, eschalot, parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf, spice, pepper, and salt, in which let them soak a few hours. Broil them before the fire; when done, dish the fowls, garnish them with hot pickle, serve them with a brown Italian sauce over, with a few onions in it.

Chicken à la Matador.

Cut a chicken into fillets and neat joints. Mince finely a Spanish onion and stew it with two ounces of butter, a few drops of lemon, pepper, and salt; when it has been stewed for half an hour, pass it through a tammy, and mix in with it a good tablespoonful of aspic jelly. Mask the chicken with this, and warm up the chicken in the bain-marie.

Fillets of Chicken à la Cardinal.

Cook some fillets of chicken in butter, and when done place them in a circle round an entrée dish, with a mushroom between each fillet. Fill the centre with Allemagne sauce, to which has been added some lobster and crayfish butter to make it red. Garnish with crayfish tails if handy.

Fried Chicken à la Orly.

Cut up a chicken into joints. Season with salt, pepper, parsley, a bayleaf, and lemon juice, sprinkle with flour and fry in butter; dip some sliced onions into flour and fry. When done, dish up the chicken in a pyramid, garnish with the fried onions and cover with tomato sauce.

Fried Chicken à la Suisse.

Roast a chicken and cut it into fillets and neat joints. Sprinkle some finely minced herbs, mignonette pepper, and salt over them. Let them remain for an hour, then dip them in frying batter and fry. Serve with fried parsley and tomato purée.

Fricassee of Chicken.

American Recipe.

Clean, wash, and cut up the fowls. Lay them in salt and water for half an hour. Put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them and half a pound of salt pork cut into thin strips. Cover closely and let them heat very slowly. Then stew for over an hour, if the fowls are tender; if not they may take from three to four hours. They must be cooked very slowly. When tender, add a chopped onion, a shalot, parsley, and pepper. Cover closely again, and when it has heated to boiling, stir in a teacupful of milk, to which have been added two beaten eggs and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Boil up and add an ounce of butter. Arrange the chickens neatly in an entrée dish, pour the gravy over and serve.

Fritôt of Chicken aux Tomates.

Take the remains of a boiled fowl and cut into pieces the size of a small cutlet. Shake a little flour over them and put them aside. Prepare a batter made of half a pound of Vienna flour, the yolk of one egg, half a gill of salad oil, and a gill of light coloured ale. Mix all these together lightly till it will mask the tip of your finger, add half a pint of purée of tomato, and mix well together. Dip the chicken cutlets into this batter, masking them well, and then put them in good lard and fry, and place them on a wire sieve as they are cooked, keeping them near the fire to keep them hot and crisp. Dish piled in a pyramid with tomatoes whole and tomato sauce round.

Chicken Nouilles au Parmesan.

Take a large fowl, and when trussed put a lump of butter inside it, and cover the breast with fat bacon. Put it into a stewpan with an onion, a carrot, a piece of celery; cover with water and boil slowly for fifty minutes. Garnish the dish on which it is served with a pint of Nouilles boiled in a stewpan of boiling water for twenty minutes, drained, and then put into another saucepan with two ounces of butter. Sprinkle in two ounces of Parmesan cheese and warm up for five minutes, then garnish the fowl with them, and pour over it a pint of rich Béchamel sauce, in which two ounces of Parmesan cheese has been mixed. The Nouilles are made by mixing half a pound of butter with three eggs till it becomes a thick smooth paste, roll it out very thin, cut it into strips an inch wide, and place four or five of these on the top of each other, shred them in thin slices like Julienne vegetables, and drain them.

Chicken Pudding à la Reine.

Take the meat from a cold fowl and pound it in a mortar, after removing the skin and sinews. Boil in light stock a couple of good tablespoonfuls of rice. When it is done and has soaked up the rice, add the pounded chicken to it, with a gill of cream, pepper, and salt. If not moist enough, add a little more cream. Butter a plain mould, fill it with the rice and chicken, tie a pudding cloth closely over, and put the mould into a stewpan of hot water to boil for an hour. The water should only reach about three-quarters up the mould. When done, turn it out and serve a good white mushroom sauce round it.

Chicken and Rice.

Pollo con Arroz (Spanish Recipe).

Cut a fowl into joints, wipe quite dry, and trim neatly. Put a wineglass of the best olive oil in a stewpan, let it get hot. Put in the chicken, stir and turn the joints and sprinkle with salt. When the chicken is a golden brown add some chopped onions, one or two red chillies, and fry all together. Meanwhile have ready four tomatoes cut in quarters, and two teacupfuls of rice well washed. Mix these with the chicken and pour in a very small quantity of broth and stew till the rice is cooked and the broth dried up. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley and serve in a deep dish without a cover, as the steam must not be kept in.

Chicken in Savoury Jelly.

Take a large chicken and roast it. Boil a calf's foot to a strong jelly, take out the foot and skim off the fat; beat up the whites of two eggs and mix them with a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar, the juice of one lemon, a little salt, a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a claret-glassful of sherry. Put these to the jelly, and when it has boiled five or six minutes strain it through a jelly bag till clear. Then put a little into an oblong baking tin (big enough for a half-quartern loaf), and when it is nearly set put in the chicken with its breast downwards; the chicken having been masked all over with white sauce, in which aspic has been well mixed, and ornamented with a device of truffles cut in stars and kite shapes. When the chicken is in, fill up the mould gradually with the remainder of the jelly. Let it stand for some hours, or place it on ice before turning it out.

Chicken with Spinach.

Poach nicely in the gravy five or six eggs. Dress them on flattened balls of spinach round the dish and serve the fowl in the centre, rubbing down the liver to thicken the gravy and liquor in which the fowl has been stewed, which pour over it for sauce, skimming it well. Mushrooms, oysters, and forcemeat balls should be put into the sauce.

Chicken Stewed Whole.

Fill the inside of a chicken with large oysters and mushrooms and fasten a tape round to keep them in. Put it in a tin pan with a cover, and put this into a large boiling pot with boiling water, which must not quite reach up to the top of the pan the chicken is in. Keep it boiling till the chicken is done, which would be in about an hour's time after it begins to simmer. Remove the scum occasionally, and replenish with water as it boils away; take all the gravy from it and put it into a small saucepan, keeping the chicken warm. Thicken the gravy with butter, flour, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped oysters, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard and minced fine, some seasoning, and a gill of cream. Boil five minutes and dish the fowls.

Côtelettes à l'Ecarlate.

Make a stiff forcemeat from the breast of a fowl or pheasant, or the two breasts of partridge or grouse. Cut some slices of tongue into cutlet shapes. Take some more tongue, pound and pass it through a sieve and mix it with the forcemeat. Season with a little cayenne and mushroom flavour. Butter and fill up some cutlet moulds with the forcemeat, and steam them in the oven. Then turn out the cutlets and place them on a baking sheet. Glaze them and replace them in the oven for a few seconds. Dish up alternately a cutlet of tongue with a cutlet of forcemeat; sauce the whole with chaud-froid sauce, and garnish with chopped aspic and very small red tomatoes.

Forced Capon.

Cut the skin of a capon down the breast, carefully slip the knife down so as to take out all the meat, and mix it with a pound of beef suet cut small. Beat this together in a marble mortar, and take a pint of large oysters cut small, two anchovies, a shalot, a bouquet garni, a little mignonette pepper, and the yolks of four eggs. Mix all these well together, and lay it on the bones; then draw the skin over it, and sew up. Put the capon into a cloth, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Stew a dozen oysters in good gravy thickened with a piece of butter rolled in flour; take the capon out of the cloth, lay it in its dish, and pour the sauce over it.

Capon à la Nanterre.

Make a stuffing with the liver of the capon, a dozen roasted chestnuts, a piece of butter, parsley, green onions, very little garlic, two yolks of eggs, salt and pepper. Stuff the capon, and then roast it, covering it with buttered paper. When it is cooked, brush it over with the yolk of an egg diluted in a little lukewarm batter; sprinkle breadcrumbs over all, and let it brown, and serve with a sharp sauce.

Braised Ducks à la St. Michel.

Rub some flour and oil over a couple of ducks, and brown them in the oven for a short time. Mix together a cup of Chablis wine and a cup of broth, season with pepper and salt; braise the ducks till they are tender. Chop some mushrooms, chives, and parsley; mix these in the broth in which the ducks were braised. Put the ducks to keep warm before the fire whilst the sauce 'reduces.' Dredge in a very little flour, and send up the ducks with the sauce round them.

Duck à la Mode.

Divide two ducks into quarters, and put them in a stewpan, and sprinkle over them flour, pepper, and salt. Put into the stewpan several pieces of butter, and fry the ducks till a nice brown colour. Remove the frying fat, and pour in half a pint of gravy and half a pint of port wine, sprinkle in more flour, add a bouquet garni, three minced shalots, an anchovy, and a dust of cayenne. Let them stew for twenty minutes, then place them on a dish, remove the herbs, clear off the fat, and serve with the sauce over them.

Braised Duck à la Nivernaise.

Line a braisingpan with slices of bacon, add the duck, cover it with bacon, and season with a bouquet of parsley, carrots, thyme, and bay leaves; moisten with stock and the same quantity of claret; fix the lid very tightly on the pan, and simmer over a slow fire, with hot coals on the lid of the stewpan. Cut up some turnips into balls, cook them in butter till brown, drain and simmer in brown thickening, moistened with a little stock. When the duck is cooked, dish up, and garnish with the turnips.

Devilled Duck or Teal.

Indian Recipe.

Take a pound of onions, a piece of green ginger, and six chillies. Reduce them to a pulp, then add two teaspoonfuls of mustard, pepper, salt, cayenne, and chutney, two tablespoonfuls of ketchup, and half a bottle of claret. Cut up the duck or teal, and put it into the sauce, and let it simmer for a long time—the duck having been previously roasted.

Duck à la Provence.

Rub the duck over with lemon-juice, fry it in butter for a few minutes; sprinkle it with flour; then add sufficient stock to cover it, one tablespoonful of ketchup, one carrot; cut up two onions, two cloves, a bouquet garni, pepper, and salt. Let this stew for an hour; then take out the duck, strain the gravy, and remove all fat, and add plenty of mushrooms. Put in some stoned and scalded olives, which boil up for ten minutes and dish up with the duck. The olives should have been soaked three hours previously.

Duck.

Canard à Purée Perto.

Take a pint of freshly shelled peas, boil them in a little thin stock, and rub them through a sieve; stew a duck in stock with a little salt, a dozen peppercorns, half a clove of garlic, six small onions, a bayleaf, and bouquet garni. When done, pass the same through a sieve, and add to it the purée of peas; reduce the whole to the consistency of thick cream. Serve the duck with the purée over it.

Salmi of Duck.

Take the giblets of a duck and the flesh off the carcase, and the bones, and stew them in equal quantities of claret and stock, salt, pepper, and three shalots. Reduce and simmer till it is thick, then pass through a sieve, and take it off the fire before it boils. Cut up the duck into neat pieces and lay it in the stewpan with the gravy. Squeeze juice of strained orange over it, and serve en pyramide.

Stewed Duck and Turnips.

Brown the duck in a stewpan with some butter, peel and cut some young turnips into equal sizes, and brown in the same butter; stir in a little powdered sugar, reduce some stock to a thin brown sauce, season with salt, pepper, a bouquet of parsley, chives, half a head of garlic, and a bayleaf. Stew the duck in this sauce, and when half cooked add the turnips, turn the duck from time to time, being careful not to break the turnips, cook slowly, and skim off all grease and serve.

Roast Goose Stuffed with Chestnuts.

Prepare a goose and stuff it with a mixture of minced bacon, the liver, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and chestnuts, which have been previously cooked and peeled. Baste the goose well whilst roasting. When cooked, serve with its own gravy, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon.

Goose à la Royale.

Having boned the goose, stuff it with the following forcemeat:—Twelve sage leaves, two onions, and two apples, all shred very fine. Mix with four ounces grated bread, four ounces of beef suet, two glasses of port wine, a grate of nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste, the grated peel of a lemon, and the beaten yolks of four eggs; sew up the goose and fry in butter till a light brown, and put it into two quarts of good stock and let it stew for two hours, and till the liquor is nearly consumed; then take up the goose, strain the liquor and take off the fat, add a spoonful of lemon pickle, the same of browning and port wine, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, a little cayenne and salt, boil it up and pour over the goose.

Game and Macaroni.

Put some ounces of macaroni into boiling stock, then add any game cut into small joints three parts cooked. Add some lean raw ham, chopped mushrooms, pepper, and salt.

Game Pie.

Take ten ounces of veal and the same of veal fat, and chop it very fine, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne. Arrange this as a lining round a china raised pie mould. Fill in with fillets of grouse, pheasant, partridge, and hare, strips of tongue, ham, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, button mushrooms, pistachio nuts, truffles, and pâté de foie gras; cover in with more of the mince, then put a paste on the top for cooking it in. Bake from two and a half to three hours. Remove the paste and fill the mould up with clarified meat jelly, partly cold; let this set. Ornament the top with chopped aspic and alternate slices of lemon and cucumber round. Croûtons of red and yellow aspic should be arranged at the base of the mould.

Game Rissoles au Poulet à la Carême.

Roll out very thin three-quarters of a pound of Brioche paste. Place upon it, two inches from the edge, minced fowl or game, prepared as for croquets, and rolled up between two teaspoons in balls the size of a nutmeg. Place these an inch from each other; egg the paste all round and fold the edge of it over the balls of mince. Press it firmly down, and with a paste stamp two inches wide cut the rissoles, keeping the mince balls exactly in the centre of each. Lay them on a hot tin that the paste may rise and fry them in lard not too hot, turning them with a skewer. They will become quite round. When of a good golden colour drain them and serve directly, and dish up in a pyramid.

Salad of Game à la Francatelli.

Boil eight eggs hard; shell them, and cut a thin slice off the bottom of each, cut each into four lengthwise. Make a very thin flat border of butter about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is to be served on, fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the yolk outside, or alternately the white and yolk, lay in the centre a layer of fresh salad, and, having cut a freshly roasted young grouse into eight or ten pieces, prepare a sauce as follows: Put a spoonful of eschalots finely chopped in a basin, one ditto of castor sugar, the yolk of one egg, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, tarragon, and chervil, and a little salt. Mix in by degrees four spoonfuls of oil and two of white vinegar. When well mixed put it on ice, and when ready to serve up whip a gill of cream, which lightly mix with it. Then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse, sauce over, and serve. The eggs can be ornamented with a little dot of radish or beetroot on the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed between.

Grouse in Aspic.

Roast a brace of grouse, and skin them, and mask them with brown sauce in which aspic has been mixed. Cut some pistachio kernels into pretty shapes and ornament the birds. Take a large square tin mould (a baking tin will do), pour in a layer of pale aspic, and when it is all but cold place the grouse on it breast downward, one turned one way and one the other, then gradually fill it up with the aspic, and put on ice. Turn out and decorate the base with chopped aspic, truffles, parsley, and tomatoes.

Croustades of Grouse à la Diable.

Cut some fillets of grouse into cutlet shapes, also some slices of fried bread; sprinkle the latter with grated Parmesan cheese. Put the fillets of grouse on the cheesed bread. Mask them with a purée of tomatoes and a tiny dust of cayenne, then add a little more grated Parmesan, a little parsley, some breadcrumbs, and little pieces of butter. Salamander over and serve hot.

Grouse à l'Ecossaise.

Take a brace of grouse; put three ounces of good dripping or butter inside each, but not in the crop. Put them down to roast, and baste till cooked. Have a slice of toast in the pan under them just before they are cooked. Parboil the liver, pound with butter, salt, and cayenne, and spread it on the toast.

Grouse à la Financière.

Take a brace of grouse; boil the livers for a few minutes, and pound them in a mortar with three ounces of butter, a little salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg, one tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, and three or four mushrooms. Stuff the grouse with this, truss and roast them, and baste plentifully. Take some sauce espagnole, add a few mushrooms and a dust of cayenne. Let all boil up together and serve with the grouse.

Friantine of Grouse.

Cut with two cutters, one larger than the other, twelve thin flat pieces of pastry, put on the centre of the largest a tablespoonful of quenelle meat and spread it out; in the centre of this put a tablespoonful of the breast of a grouse, cut up with two ounces of lean ham. Mix well and put it into a stewpan with three-quarters of a pint of white cream sauce. Warm up and let it get cold. Cover this with the smaller sized pieces of pastry, having wetted the inside of each with yolk of egg to make them adhere to the lowest pastry, press down tightly with the smallest cutters, and cut the bottom pastry to the size of the smaller cutter. Egg and breadcrumb. Arrange them in a frying basket and fry in boiling lard a nice brown. Serve garnished with fried parsley.

Grouse Kromesquis.

Take the remains of cold grouse and mince it very fine. Mix with it a couple of tablespoonfuls of grated ham or tongue. Divide into small sausage shapes, dip each in batter, fry a pale golden colour and serve very hot, garnished with crisped parsley.

Grouse Marinaded.

German Recipe.

Hang the birds as long as possible, then pluck and draw them and wipe their insides with a soft cloth. Mince an onion; take about a dozen peppercorns, twenty juniper berries, three bayleaves, and put these into a gill of vinegar. Let the grouse soak in this for three days, turning them two or three times daily, and pouring the marinade over them. Stuff the birds with turkey forcemeat and lard the breasts. Place them in front of a clear fire, baste constantly, and serve with slices of lemon round the dish.

Grouse au Naturel.

Grouse should be wiped inside, but never washed. Have a brisk fire, and when the bird is trussed, place it before a brisk fire, and before it is taken down the breast should be basted with a little butter, and frothed and browned before it is sent up. A good sized grouse requires nearly three-quarters of an hour to cook it. Serve fried breadcrumbs and bread sauce with grouse.

Grouse Pie.

Take two or three grouse, cut off the wings and legs, and tuck the drumsticks in through a slit in the thigh; singe the birds; split them in halves; season them with pepper and salt. Place some pieces of very tender beefsteak at the bottom of a pie dish, add chopped mushrooms, parsley, shalot, and two teaspoonfuls of chutnee sauce, and sprinkle over the steak. Place the halves of the grouse neatly on the top; add a little more seasoning; moisten with sufficient gravy made from the necks, legs, and wings. Cover with puff paste, and bake for about an hour and a half.

Pressed Grouse.

Boil a brace of grouse till very tender; season, and then take away all the meat and pull it out very fine, removing all skin. Add to the liquor in which they were boiled a tablespoonful of gelatine for each three pounds of grouse, and keep stirring it in the boiling liquor till it is quite dissolved; place the grouse in a deep tin basin, and pour the liquor over it whilst hot; stir it well, so that the meat may become thoroughly saturated with the liquor, then turn a plate over it, put on a heavy weight, let it get cold, and turn out. It may be made ornamental by boiling eggs hard, halving them, and putting the flat side on the basin or mould in which the grouse has to be pressed.

Grouse Salad.

Cut up a brace of cold grouse, and let them marinade in two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and the juice of a lemon, with a little salt and pepper, and let them remain in this for three hours. Pound the yolk of a hard-boiled egg very smooth, and mix it well with the yolk of a raw egg, a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a dust of cayenne, and half a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, pouring in gradually drop by drop some fine salad oil; stir constantly, and, as it thickens, add a little tarragon vinegar, then add more oil and vinegar till there is enough sauce. Put some shred lettuce on a dish, place some marinaded grouse on it, pour the dressing over, and garnish with fillets of anchovies, slices of hard-boiled eggs, and sprigs of chervil. Chop up some savoury jelly, and place round it like a wreath.

Scallops of Grouse à la Financière.

Take a brace of grouse, remove the skin, take off all the flesh, and scrape the flesh into very fine shreds. Chop up all the bones and necks, and put them into a saucepan with an onion, five sprigs of thyme, three of parsley, and a small carrot; cover with water, and let it boil slowly for three hours, skimming when it boils. Make a mixture of about half a pint of stock and two ounces of butter, and let boil. When the stock boils take 3-1/4 ounces of fine Vienna flour, and stir it well over the fire for about three minutes; then add the yolks of three eggs, stirring over the fire again. Take it then from the saucepan, and place it on a plate to get cool; then pound the shredded grouse till quite fine, using a gill of cream; now pass it through a fine sieve. Take a plain round mould, holding a pint and a half, butter it, and ornament with truffles cut in devices. Cut up three or four mushrooms, and mix in with the grouse panada, and fill the mould. Place buttered paper over it, and let it steam for half an hour; then turn out and let it get cold, and when cold cut it into a number of scallops of the same size. Egg and breadcrumb them, dip them in clarified butter, and fry a pale gold colour, and serve on a border of mashed potatoes. Make a sauce as follows:—Boil one glass of Marsala in half a pint of brown sauce for five minutes; place in the centre of them some mushrooms, truffles, and cockscombs, and pour sauce over these, but do not put the sauce over the scallops.

Grouse Soufflé.

Take the breasts of two grouse already cooked, pound them in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter and a very small piece of onion. Pass them through a sieve, add four eggs, beat the whites to a stiff froth, season with a little salt and dust of cayenne. Place it in a soufflé dish, and bake it in a quick oven.

Timbale of Grouse à la Vitellius.

Simmer a slice of tongue in a stewpan till nearly cooked. Cut it up into fine dice, and put it back into the saucepan with four truffles, four tomatoes, and an ounce of butter; add a little cornflour to thicken it. Moisten with half a pint of stock and a gill of claret. Reduce this, skim off all the fat; then add some finely-minced grouse, a sprig of parsley, and six anchovies which have been soaked in milk. Warm these over a slow fire, but do not let them boil; when done, pour into a fancy mould lined with light puff paste. Bake, turn out, and serve very hot, garnished with crisped parsley.

To Cook Hare.

The great object in cooking a hare is to keep it as moist as possible, and therefore the hare must not be put too close to the fire in the first stage of roasting. Prepare a stuffing of quarter of a pound of beef suet, chopped finely, two ounces of uncooked ham, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and two teaspoonfuls of dried mixed savoury herbs; add to this a quarter of the rind of a lemon, chopped very fine, a dust of cayenne pepper, salt, five ounces of breadcrumbs, and two whole eggs. Pound this in the mortar. The liver may be minced and pounded in with these ingredients if fresh. Place the stuffing in the hare, and place at a distance from the fire; have plenty of dripping melted in the dripping pan, and basting should go on and be continued from the very first. Then as the hare is getting on, baste with good milk, and then baste well with butter; put the hare near the fire so as to froth the butter, and at the same time dredge the hare with some flour, so as to get a good brown colour, and serve good rich gravy round it with half a glass of port wine in a tureen, and currant jelly should be handed with it.

Hare Cutlets à la Chef.

Take a freshly-killed hare, save the blood, paunch and skin it. Roast it, then cut off the fillets and cut them aslant and flatten them. Put the bones of the hare into a saucepan with two onions sliced, one good-sized carrot, a tiny piece of garlic, two cloves, and a bouquet garni, and one bayleaf. Moisten with a glass of white wine, and let all this steep and stew for an hour; then pass through a sieve, add a quarter of a boiled Spanish onion, and thicken with the blood of the hare. Make some hare stuffing, and moisten with some of the sauce, and make it into cutlets. To form cutlets similar to the fillet cutlets, place them in a frying-pan, and let them poach in water. Place the hare fillets and the stuffing cutlets in the pan and fry to a good colour in clarified butter. Put a small piece of the small bones of the hare in every cutlet and dish them in a crown. Fill the centre with a mixture of small onions, mushrooms, and small pieces of bacon, cut into dice which have been stewed in some of the sauce. Hand red currant jelly with this dish.

Hare en Daube.

French Recipe.

The hare must not be too high; cut it into pieces as for jugged hare. Rub into a stewpan a bit of bacon cut into squares; put the hare into it, together with thyme, bayleaf, spices, salt, pepper, and as much garlic as will go on the point of a knife. Add a little bacon rind blanched and cut into the shape of lozenges. When the whole has a uniform colour, moisten with a good glass of white wine, put on a close lid, and stew for four hours upon hot cinders. When ready to be served, pour away the lard, the spice, and the fat, and add a little essence of ham, and send to table hot.

Hare Derrynane Fashion.

Take three or four eggs, a pint of new milk, a couple of handfuls of flour, three yolks. Make them into a batter, and when the hare is roasting baste it well, repeating the operation till the batter thickens and forms a coating all over the hare. This should be allowed to brown but not to burn.

Filet de Lièvre à la Muette.

Cut a hare into fillets and stew them with a mince of chickens' livers, truffles, shalots in a rich brown gravy with a tumblerful of champagne in it.

Gâteaux de Lièvre.

Mince the best parts of a hare with a little mutton suet. Season the mince highly with herbs and good stock. Pound it in a mortar with some red currant jelly and make up into small cakes with raw eggs. Flour and fry them and dish them in a pyramid.

Hare à la Matanzas.

Paunch, skin, and clean a hare marinaded in vinegar for a couple of days with four onions sliced, three shalots, a couple of sprigs of parsley, pepper and salt. After two days take the hare out and drain it. Farce it with a stuffing made of the flesh of a chicken, three whole eggs, the liver, and a slice of bacon, all finely chopped, mixed and seasoned with pepper, salt, and a bouquet garni. Now put the hare in a stewpan with slices of bacon all over it, some sliced carrots, two onions stuck with cloves, and half a pint of consommé. Put some live coals on the lid of the saucepan and let it cook for three hours.

Hare à la Mode.

Skin the hare and cut it up in into joints and lard with fine fillets of bacon; place in an earthenware pot, with some slices of salt pork, chopped bacon, salt, mixed spice, a piece of butter, and half a pint of port wine; lay two or three sheets of buttered paper over it; fix on the lid tightly and simmer over a slow fire. When nearly done, stir in the blood, boil up and serve.

Jugged Hare.

Have a wide-mouthed stone jar, and put into it some good brown gravy free from fat. Next cut up the hare into neat joints; fry these joints in a little butter to brown them a little. Have the jar made hot by placing it in the oven, and have a cloth ready to tie over its mouth. Put the joints already browned into the jar, and let it stand for fifteen minutes on the dresser. After this has stood some time untie the jar and add the gravy, with a dust of cinnamon, six cloves, two bayleaves, and the juice of half a lemon. The gravy should have onion made in it, and should be thickened with a little arrowroot. A wineglassful of port should be added, and a good spoonful of red currant jelly should be dissolved in it. Next place the jar up to its neck in a large saucepan of boiling water, only taking care the jar is well tied down. Let it remain in the boiling water from an hour to an hour and a half. Stuffing balls, made with the same as the stuffing for roast hare, rolled into small balls the size of marbles and thrown into boiling fat, should be served with it.

To Roast Landrail.

This bird should be trussed like a snipe, and roasted quickly at a brisk but not a fierce fire for about fifteen or sixteen minutes. It should be dished on fried breadcrumbs, and gravy served in a tureen.

Croustade of Larks.

Bone two dozen larks, season, and put into each a piece of pâté de foie gras (truffled). Roll the larks up into a ball, put them in a pudding basin, season them with salt and pepper, and pour three ounces of clarified butter over them, and bake in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour. Dish them in a fried bread croustade, made by cutting the crust from a stale loaf about eight inches long, which must be scooped out in the centre and fried in hot lard or butter till it is a good brown. Drain it, and then place it in the centre of a dish, sticking it there with a little white of egg. Put it into the oven to get hot; then put the larks into it, and let it get cold. Garnish with truffles and aspic jelly.

Larks à la Macédoine.

Take a dozen larks, fill them with forcemeat made of livers, a little veal and fat bacon, a dessertspoonful of sweet herbs; pepper and salt to taste, and pound all well together in a mortar, and then stuff the birds with it. Lay the larks into a deep dish, pour over them a pint of good gravy, and bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour. Have a pyramid of mashed potatoes ready, and arrange the larks round it, and garnish with a macédoine of mixed vegetables.

Lark Pie.

Pluck, singe, and flatten the backs of two dozen larks, pound the trail and livers in a mortar with scraped bacon and a little thyme, stuff the larks with this, and wrap each in a slice of fat bacon. Line a plain mould with paste, fill it with the larks, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, spread butter all over them, and add two small bayleaves; cover with paste, and bake for two hours and a quarter. Can be eaten hot or cold. It must be turned out of the mould.

Salmi of Larks à la Macédoine, cold.

Take a dozen larks, bone and stuff them with pâté de foie gras, and make them as nearly as possible of the same size and shape. Make half a pint of brown sauce, adding a glass of sherry, a little mushroom ketchup, and an ounce of glaze; boil together, and reduce one half, adding a couple of spoonfuls of tomato juice; pass through a sieve, and, when nearly cold, add a gill of melted aspic. Mask the larks, and place them in a sauté pan, and cook them; take them out and remove neatly any surplus sauce, and dish them in the entrée dish in a circle. Take the contents of a tin of macédoine of vegetables boiled tender in a quart of water, add a dust of salt, a saltspoonful of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut; strain off, and, when cold, toss them in two tablespoonfuls of liquid aspic jelly. This macédoine should be piled up high and served in the centre. Garnish with chopped aspic round the larks, and sippets of aspic beyond this.

Lark Puffs.

Make some puff paste, and take half a dozen larks, and brown them in a stewpan with a little butter; then take them out and drain them, and put into the body of each bird a small lump of fresh butter, a little piece of truffle, pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of thick cream. Truss each lark, and wrap it in a slice of fat bacon; cover it with puff paste rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and shape it neatly; put the puffs in a buttered tin, and bake in a brisk oven for ten minutes.

Leveret à la Minute.

Skin, draw, and cut a leveret into joints; toss in a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, and a bouquet garni. When nearly cooked, add some chopped mushrooms, eschalots, parsley, a tablespoonful of flour, a gill of stock, and a gill of claret; as soon as it boils, pour into a dish and serve.

Leveret à la Noël.

Take a leveret, cut off the fillets and toss them in the oven in a sauté-pan in butter; when cold, slice these fillets in shreds as for Julienne vegetables. Shred likewise some truffles, mushrooms, and tongue, and bind these together with two tablespoonfuls of good stock, in which a glass of port has been put, two cloves, the peel of a Seville orange, and a few mushrooms; thicken with butter and flour and tammy. Make some game forcemeat with the legs, and with it line some little moulds; fill up the empty space with the shredded game and vegetables and then cover with a layer of forcemeat. Poach these moulds in a deep sauté-pan, and when done dish them up round a ragoût composed of truffles, mushrooms, quenelles, and cockscombs. Sauce the entrée with gravy made from the bones and thickened. This entrée may be served cold, when it should be mixed with aspic, and garnished with it also.

Salmi of Moor Fowl or Wild Duck.

Carve the birds very neatly, and strip every particle of skin and fat from the legs, wings, and breasts, braise the bodies well and put them with the skin and other trimmings into a very clean stewpan. Add two or three sliced shalots, a bayleaf, a small blade of mace and a few peppercorns, then pour in a pint of good veal gravy, and boil briskly till reduced nearly half, strain the gravy, pressing the bones well, skim off the fat, add a dust of cayenne and squeeze in a few drops of lemon; heat the game very gradually in it, but it must not be allowed to boil. Place sippets of fried bread round the dish, arrange the birds in a pyramid, give the same a boil and pour over. A couple of wineglasses of port or claret should be mixed with the gravy.

Ortolans in Cases.

Bone as many ortolans as are required, have ready about three rashers of bacon chopped fine, which must be put into a sauté-pan with two shalots, one bayleaf, a bouquet garni, half a teaspoonful of black pepper and salt to taste. These must be fried till coloured; then add half a pound of calf's liver, cut small, and fried till brown; next place them in a mortar and pound them well, add the yolks of three hard boiled eggs and some truffle cuttings, pound again, and pass through a sieve; stuff the ortolans with this forcemeat, roll them up, and place them in a well-oiled paper case, and then bake in a quick oven. Pour over each case before serving a gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the birds, half a pint of rich gravy and a glass of claret, which should be reduced one half: send to table as hot as possible.

Ortolans à la Périgourdine.

Cover the ortolans with slices of bacon, and cook them in a bain-marie moistened with stock and lemon juice. Take as many truffles as there are ortolans, scoop out the centres and boil them in champagne (Saumur will do). When done, pour a little purée of game into each truffle, add the ortolans, warm for a few seconds in the oven, and serve.

Ortolans aux Truffes.

Take as many even large-sized truffles as ortolans; make a large round hole in the middle of each truffle, and put in it a little chicken forcemeat. Cut off the heads, necks, and feet of the birds, season with salt and pepper, and lay each bird on its back in one of the truffles. Arrange them in a stewpan, lay thin slices of bacon over them, pour over them some good stock, into which a gill of Madeira has been poured, and then simmer them very gently for twenty-five minutes. Dish the ortolans on toast, and strain the gravy over them.

Partridges à la Barbarie.

Truss the birds, and stuff them with chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned with salt and pepper and a tiny dust of cayenne. Cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of nails; make holes with a penknife in the breasts of the birds; widen the holes with a skewer, and fill them with the truffles; let this decoration be very regular. Put them into a stewpan with slices of bacon round them, and good gravy poured in enough to cover the birds. When they have been stewed for twenty minutes glaze them; dish them up with a Financière sauce (see 'Entrées à la Mode').

Partridge Blancmanger aux Truffes.

Boil a brace of partridges and let them get cold. Melt about a pint of aspic jelly and take a plain round quart mould and pour about a gill of aspic jelly into it to mask it by turning the mould round and round in the hands till the inside has been entirely covered by the jelly, pour away any that does not adhere, and place the mould on ice at once. Cut a few large truffles in slices and ornament the bottom of the mould with a star, pour on about two tablespoonfuls of a little cold liquid aspic. Put into a stewpan a pint of aspic and whisk it till it becomes white as cream, then mask the mould with this; pour in enough to half fill it, then turn it round and round, covering all the inside of the mould, pouring out any superfluity. Skin the partridges and cut off all the meat and chop it up: then pound it with a gill of cream in the mortar, and then rub through a fine wire sieve. Place this in a large stewpan, add half a pint of cream, and mix it with the partridge meat. Collect the aspic jelly, melt it, and whip it up and add it to the partridge; then fill the mould with this and pour in a little liquid aspic; place on ice. To serve this, dip it into warm water the same as a mould of jelly, turn it out, and garnish with aspic croûtons alternately with very small tomatoes; around the top arrange a wreath of chervil.

Partridges à la Béarnaise.

Wipe the inside of the partridges with a damp cloth. Cut off the heads, and truss the legs like boiled fowls. Put them into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil and a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and shake them over a clear fire till slightly browned all over. Then pour over them two tablespoonfuls of strong stock, one glassful of sherry, and two tablespoonfuls of preserved tomatoes, with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Simmer all gently together until the partridges are done enough, and serve very hot. The sauce should be highly seasoned.

Blanquette of Partridge aux Champignons.

Raise the flesh of a cold partridge, take off the skin; cut the flesh into scallops; put some velouté sauce in a stewpan with half a basket of mushrooms skinned and sliced. Reduce the sauce till very thick, adding enough cream to make it white. Throw it over the partridge scallops, to which add a few mushrooms.

Broiled Partridges.

Take off the heads and prepare them as if for the spit. Break down the breast bone and split them entirely up the back and lay them flat. Shred an eschalot as fine as possible and mix it with breadcrumbs. Dip the partridges in clarified butter and cover inside and outside with the crumbs. Broil them over a clear fire, turning them frequently for a quarter of an hour, and serve them up with mushroom sauce.

Chartreuse of Partridges.

Boil some carrots and turnips separately, and cut them into pieces two inches long and three quarters of an inch in diameter. Braise a couple of small summer cabbages, drain well, and stir over the fire till quite dry; then roll them on a cloth and cut them into pieces about two inches long and an inch thick. Roast a brace of partridges, and cut them into neat joints. Butter a plain entrée mould, line it at the bottom and the sides with buttered paper to form a sort of wall, then fill it up with cabbage and the pieces of partridge in alternate layers. Steam the chartreuse to make it hot, turn it out of the mould upon an entrée dish, and garnish with turnips, carrots, and French beans. Send good brown sauce to table with it.

Partridges aux Choux.

Truss a brace of partridges for boiling, and mince about half a pound of fat bacon or pork, and put it into a saucepan on the fire; when it is boiling, immerse the birds quickly, and sauté them till nicely coloured. Have ready a small savoy, which has been well washed and drained, chop it up and place it in the saucepan with the partridges, a bouquet garni, two pork sausages, pepper and salt to taste; add about half a pint of stock, and let all simmer together for two and a half hours. When ready to serve, remove the bouquet garni, and serve the chopped cabbage round the birds, and the sausages split and divided into four pieces each.

Cold Glazed Fillets of Partridge.

Roast a brace of partridges, fillet them, pound the meat from the carcases in a mortar with truffles and mushrooms; simmer the bones in some vin de Grave, with truffle trimmings, shalots, and a bayleaf, which reduce on the fire to about three-quarters the quantity; squeeze through a cloth, add two tablespoonfuls of clear stock to it, and stir half of it into the pounded meat; mix it thoroughly, and stir it until it boils; pass it through a tammy, and leave to get cold. Arrange the fillets, with a tomato cut the same shape between each one, in a circle round an entrée dish; fill the centre with the purée, cover the whole with the remainder of the sauce, and garnish with croûtons of aspic jelly.

Partridges à la Cussy.

Remove all the bones from the birds except the thigh bones and legs, stuff them with a forcemeat composed of chopped sweetbread, mushrooms, truffles, and cockscombs which have been boiled; sew up the birds to their original shape, hold them over hot coals till the breasts are quite firm, and cover them with buttered paper. Line a stewpan with a slice of ham, two or three onions, carrots, a bouquet garni, a little scraped bacon, the partridge bones which have been pounded, salt, and pepper; moisten with stock. As soon as the vegetables get soft, add the partridges, and simmer over a slow fire. When done, dish up the birds, pass the sauce through a tammy, skim off the fat, reduce, and add a few truffles or slices of mushrooms, and pour over the partridges.

Partridges with Mushrooms.

Take a brace of birds, and prepare about half a pound of button mushrooms, and place them in a stewpan with an ounce and a half of melted butter; add a slight sprinkling of salt and cayenne, and let them simmer for about nine minutes, then turn out all into a plate, and when quite cold put it into the bodies of the partridges; sew and truss them securely and roast them in the usual way, and serve either mushroom sauce round them, or they can be served up with their own gravy only, and bread sauce handed.

Partridge Pie.

Cut the breasts and legs off two or three birds, sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and cook them in the oven smothered in butter, and covered with a buttered paper. Pound the carcases, and make them into good gravy, but do not thicken it.

Take the livers of the birds with an equal quantity of calf's liver, mince both, and toss them in butter over the fire for a minute or two; then pound them in a mortar with an equal quantity of bacon, two shalots parboiled, with pepper, salt, powdered spice, and sweet herbs to taste. When well pounded, pass it through a sieve; put a layer of forcemeat into a pie-dish, arrange the pieces of partridge on it, filling up the interstices with the forcemeat; then pour in as much gravy as is required, put on the paste cover, and bake for an hour. When done, a little more boiling hot gravy may be introduced through the hole in the centre of the crust. A little melted aspic jelly may be added to the gravy.

Partridge Pudding.

Take a brace of well-kept partridges, cut them into neat joints and skin them; line a quart pudding basin with suet crust, place a thinnish slice of rump steak at the bottom of the dish cut into pieces, put in the pieces of partridge, season with pepper and salt, and pour in about a pint of good dark stock well clarified from fat, then put on the cover and boil in the usual way.

Partridges à la Reine.

Truss a brace of partridges for boiling, fill them with good game forcemeat, with two or three truffles cut up in small pieces, and tie thin slices of fat bacon over them. Slice a small carrot into a stewpan with an onion, four or five sticks of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh butter. Place the partridges on these, breasts uppermost, pour over them half a pint of good stock, cover with a round of buttered paper, and simmer as gently as possible till the partridges are done enough. Strain the stock, free it carefully from grease, thicken it with a little flour and as much browning as is necessary; flavour with a little cayenne, half a dozen drops of essence of anchovy, and a tablespoonful of sherry. Stir this sauce over a gentle fire till it is on the point of boiling, then pour it over the partridges already dished up on toast, and serve instantly.

Salmi of Partridge à la Chasseur.

Take a couple of cold roast partridges—they should be rather under-cooked—cut into neat joints, removing all skin and sinew, and lay the pieces in a stewpan with four tablespoonfuls of salad oil, six tablespoonfuls of claret, the strained juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.

Simmer gently for a few minutes till the salmi is hot throughout, then serve directly. Garnish with fried sippets.

Scalloped Partridges.

Take the fillets of a brace of partridges, sauté them in butter till firm, drain them, and put in some good game stock and two tablespoonfuls of Allemagne sauce; when boiling put in the scalloped partridges, with two or three peeled mushrooms, a small piece of butter, and the juice of half a lemon. Dish up the scallops in a circle, and fill the same in the centre.

Partridges à la Sierra Morena.

Take a brace of partridges properly trussed; cut into dice one inch thick a little less than half a pound of bacon, and put them in the stewpan; cut two large onions in quarters, take six whole black peppers, a little salt, one bayleaf, half a gill of vinegar, one gill of port wine, one gill of water, one tablespoonful of salad oil, and put all these ingredients into the stewpan; put on the lid, and cover the stewpan with half a sheet of brown kitchen paper; put the stewpan on a slow fire to stew for two hours; then take out the partridges and dish them and put round some of the quarters of onions which have been stewed. Pass the gravy through a sieve and send to table.

Partridge Soufflé.

Roast a partridge, chop and pound the flesh in a mortar with a few spoonfuls of Béchamel sauce and a small piece of butter. Season well; mix with this four eggs, and strain the whole through a sieve into a basin. Beat the whites of the eggs stiffly, and mix lightly with the purée. Put all into the soufflé dish, and let it bake in the oven for twenty minutes. Cover the top with a piece of paper to prevent its burning.

Partridge Soufflé.

Another way.

Skin a brace of cold roast partridges, cut off all the meat, and pound it in a mortar with the birds' livers; warm up in a saucepan with a little reduced stock, and pass through a tammy. Break up the bones and put them into a saucepan with a good brown sauce and stock, and reduce till nearly a glaze; add the partridge purée and half an ounce of butter, two yolks of eggs, and the two whites whipped, which must be stirred in gradually; pour into a soufflé dish, and bake as soon as the soufflé has risen sufficiently. Serve it at once.

Perdreaux en Surprise.

Take two roasted partridges, cut out the whole of the breasts in a square piece, so as to make a square aperture, clean away all the spongy substance from the interior, and make a salpicon to be put inside the birds as follows:—Cut into very small dice the flesh taken out of the birds, also some truffles and pepper and salt. Put these into a little velouté sauce, and with this stuff the birds. Dip them into eggs and breadcrumbs put some bits of butter all over, and fry them of a nice colour. Dish up and serve with Espagnole sauce.

Stewed Partridges.

Lard a brace of partridges, and place them in a stewpan with onions, carrots, rashers of bacon, a bouquet garni, and equal quantities of stock and light claret, and simmer over a slow fire, skimming constantly. When done, dish up the partridges, reduce the sauce, and pass through a sieve and pour over the birds.

Partridge à la Toussenel.

Take a brace of partridges, stuff them with the livers of the birds minced up together with butter and some truffles which have been cooked in champagne; wrap each bird up in a figleaf or vineleaf, and over these place a sheet of buttered paper. Then put the birds on the spit, and roast till about three-fourths cooked; then take off the spit, and under the four members of each bird spread a mixture of breadcrumb worked into a farce with pepper, butter, parsley, shalot, and grated nutmeg. Replace the birds on the spit, and let them finish roasting, basting them continually alternately with broth and champagne. These drippings, to which the grated peel of one lemon and the juice of a Seville orange are added, form the sauce to be served with it.

Partridge Tartlets.

Bouchées de Perdreaux.

Take the breasts of two cooked partridges, about six ounces, and cut into very small pieces. Mince two ounces of lean ham, one truffle, and six mushrooms; stir this mixture into a gill of white sauce. Butter nine small moulds, line them neatly with this mixture, smooth well over with a hot wet knife, fill in with minced partridge, coat them neatly over the top with the quenelle meat, steam them for twenty minutes; dish on a circle of mashed potato, pour good white sauce over and round them, and serve French beans or tomatoes in the centre.

Partridge à la Vénitienne.

Put a brace of partridges into a stewpan with butter, two glasses of Chablis, and two glasses of stock, add a bouquet garni, very little garlic, two cloves, salt and pepper; let them simmer gently. Take them off when done, pass the gravy through a sieve, add a little butter and flour to thicken it, a small piece of glaze, a little cayenne and salt. Pour the sauce over the partridges, and cover over all with two spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; put a few breadcrumbs and pieces of clarified butter on this, and set the whole on a baking sheet in the oven. Brown the birds well, and serve with sauce espagnole or sauce piquante.

Pintail.

This bird should be roasted at a clear quick fire, well floured when first laid down, turned briskly, and basted with butter constantly. It takes about twenty-five minutes to roast, and then it should be laid down before the fire for two or three more, when it will yield a very rich gravy. Score the breast, and sprinkle a little cayenne on it, and send cut lemon up to table to hand with it.

Boiled Pheasant.

Cover with buttered paper and simmer as gently as possible till it is done enough. Pour either celery, horseradish, oyster, or soubise sauce over it, and serve more in a tureen.

Boudins of Pheasant à la Richelieu.

Take a cold pheasant and pick the meat from it; remove the skin and sinews, and pound the flesh in a mortar to a smooth paste. Mix its weight with the same quantity of pounded potatoes or panada and six ounces of fresh butter. Mix these thoroughly, pound them together, and season highly with salt and cayenne, and a trifle of mace. Bind together with the yolks of four eggs, one at a time, two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, and last of all two tablespoonfuls of boiled onions chopped small. Spread this mixture out on a dish, and make it up into small cutlets about three inches long, two inches wide, and a quarter of an inch thick. Drop these carefully into very hot water, and poach them gently for a few minutes. The water must not boil. Take them up, drain, and let them get cold; then egg and breadcrumb them, and fry them in hot butter a nice pale colour. Make a gravy by peeling and frying four onions in butter till lightly browned, dredge an ounce of flour over them, and pour upon them half a pint of stock, a glassful of claret, the bones of the pheasant, and pepper and salt. Simmer over fire for twenty minutes, strain through sieve, and it is ready for use. Serve the boudins in a circle with the gravy round.

Pheasant à la Bonne Femme.

Put a well-hung pheasant in a buttered stewpan with three ounces of good beef dripping and six ounces of ham cut into dice. Let the pheasant fry over fire till it is nicely and lightly browned, then add a tablespoonful of chutnee and three large Spanish onions cut in rings; cover the saucepan, and let it simmer till all are cooked. Take up the bird and put it on a dish, beat the onions over the fire for ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and serve round the pheasant.

Pheasant à la Brillat-Savarin.

Hang a pheasant till tender, pluck, draw, and lard it carefully. Bone and draw two woodcocks, keep the trail separate, throw away the gizzards, chop up the meat with beef marrow which has been cooked by steam, scraped bacon, pepper, salt, mixed herbs and truffles; fill the pheasant with this stuffing, which fix in with a piece of bread the shape of a cork and tie it round with fine thread. Lay a thick slice of bread two inches broader than the pheasant in the dripping pan; pound the tail of the woodcock in a mortar with truffles, add anchovy, a little scraped bacon, and a lump of fresh butter; spread a thick layer on the bread, roast the pheasant over it so as to catch all the dripping and dish up on it.

Crème of Pheasants à la Moderne.

Take two pheasants, remove the skin from the breast, and cut from each the two large fillets and the two under ones; remove every particle of the white flesh that did not come away with the fillets, leaving the legs and pinions on the carcases.

Spread each fillet on a board and with a knife scrape the flesh from the skin of the fillet. When the flesh is removed from the four large fillets and from the four smaller ones, and little remnants gathered from the carcases, place them in a mortar and pour in a gill of cream and pound well for a few minutes, then rub through clean wire sieve, place it back in the mortar and keep adding, a gill at a time, more cream until one pint of cream is used up; now take two plain cylinder moulds, well buttered and ornamented according to fancy with truffles (or small dariole moulds may be used), fill carefully and place a piece of buttered paper on the top of the mould or moulds, and place them in a stewpan with about a pint of boiling water and let them simmer very gently for twenty minutes and turn out. Make a sauce to serve with this dish of the carcases, &c., mixed with rich Béchamel sauce, and when dished there should be a garnish of peas, mushrooms, or shred truffles.

Pheasant Cutlets.

Take a well-hung young pheasant, cut it when prepared into neat joints. Take out the bones carefully and shape the joints into cutlets; flatten these with the cutlet-bat, season rather highly and cover them thickly with egg and finely-grated breadcrumbs. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a handful of parsley, a bouquet garni, a bayleaf, pepper, salt, and as much water as will cover them. Let them stew slowly till the flavour of the herbs is drawn out, then thicken gravy and strain. Fry the cutlets in hot fat till a bright brown. Serve on a hot dish in a circle with one of the small bones stuck into each cutlet; pour the gravy round.

Galantine of Pheasant à la Mode.

Bone a pheasant, cut off the legs and press what is left of the leg inside, and cut away any sinews. Take three-quarters of a pound of sausage meat, a dozen oysters, three or four truffles, a slice of tongue, and three rashers of fat bacon. Cut the truffles into small dice, also the tongue and bacon. Mix all together with the sausage meat, adding a little cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of herbs mixed, half an ounce of melted gelatine, and two yolks of eggs. Mix well together, and spread over the pheasant evenly. Then roll it up lengthways and tightly in a cloth and place it in saucepan to boil for an hour, then take it out and remove the cloth carefully. To serve this dish, cut it up into thin slices and dish them in a circle, letting one piece overlap the other uniformly all round. Place a little cress salad compressed into a ball on the top, and at the base a few croûtons of aspic jelly at an equal distance apart, and a little chopped aspic between. Sprinkle a little over the salad ball at the top.

Fritôt of Crème of Pheasant.

Take eight tartlet tins, not too large, butter them, and fill about three parts full of crème of pheasant and place them in the oven for a few minutes. When quite firm to the touch, remove them from oven, and when cold dip each one into a light batter and fry in clean lard of a light brown. The batter should be made with half a pound of Vienna flour, the half of a yolk of egg, a dessertspoonful of salad oil, and a gill of pale ale. Mix all these together lightly till it will mask the point of one's finger; if too thick, add a drop or two more ale. Serve with brown or mushroom sauce. Send this dish very hot to table.

Partridge à la Crème.

See Pheasant ditto.

Fritôt of Partridge à la Crème.

See Pheasant ditto.

Pheasant and Macaroni.

Pull the flesh with two forks from a cold roast pheasant. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with enough water to cover them, and let them simmer till it is much reduced. Add two shalots, a little salt and pepper, a grate of nutmeg, a gill of mushroom ketchup and the same of Marsala. Thicken with flour and butter, and let all simmer gently for twenty minutes; strain it, and put it back into the saucepan for it to boil up. Just before the pheasant is to be served, put the meat into the gravy and let it warm through without boiling. After it is dished, place round it some macaroni made as follows:—Have two pints of boiling water, into which plunge four ounces of macaroni, add pepper and salt, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Drain it, and put it into a pint of good stock, with a little salt, a teaspoonful of unmixed mustard and a dust of cayenne. Let it all boil till the macaroni is tender, then add a tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese and an ounce of butter. Toss it over fire till all is well mixed, then serve.

Pheasant Pie with Oysters.

Boil a pheasant till almost done; it will finish cooking in the pie. Make as much gravy as the size of the bird will require, add half a cup of milk, season and thicken it. Make a good pie-crust, and then put the pieces of pheasant in a pie-dish, which must be hot. Scatter some raw oysters among the pieces of pheasant, pour over all enough gravy to fill the dish to the depth of one inch, and cover it with the crust, which must be pressed against the edge so that it will adhere. Let it bake for half an hour. After it is cooked, pour in remainder of the gravy in the slit in the top of the crust.

Pheasant des Rois.

Have a pound of the best preserved truffles, such as can be obtained at Benoist's, in Wardour Street, stew them in a mixture of a quarter of a pound of butter, a large tablespoonful of finest Lucca oil, and half a pound of bacon fat scraped into shreds. Thoroughly cook the truffles, so that a silver fork can be stuck into them without pushing hard. Stuff a pheasant with them and sew it up. Cover the breast with a slice of fat bacon, and put two or three slices beneath it. Place round the pheasant pieces of veal and ham cut into small cubes the size of dice, add a few carrots, an onion or two, salt and pepper. Pour on it a claretglassful of Chablis, cover the saucepan, place it on a slow fire and use the salamander, then let it stew for an hour. When ready to serve, strain the same, removing all grease, and pour over the bird.

Pheasant à la Sainte Alliance.

An expensive dish.

Take a well-hung cock pheasant and truss it for roasting. Farce it with a stuffing made of two woodcocks' flesh and internals (or snipes') finely minced with two ounces of fresh butter, some salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, a bouquet garni finely powdered, and as many chopped truffles as will be required to fill the pheasant. Truss the bird and roast, basting it well with fresh butter. Whilst roasting, lay in the pan a round of toast, upon which a little of the stuffing has been spread, and serve the bird on it. Bread sauce and brown gravy should be handed round with it.

Salmi of Pheasant.

Half roast a pheasant, and when it is nearly cold cut it into neat joints, removing the skin. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a bayleaf, and a bouquet garni, and stir these over a slow fire till lightly brown, then pour over half a pint of Espagnole sauce and a glassful of claret. Let all simmer for a quarter of an hour. Strain the gravy, skim it carefully, add a pinch of cayenne and the juice of half a lemon, then put it back into the saucepan with the pieces of game. Heat these up slowly. When cooked, dish up and pour the hot sauce over them and garnish with fried sippets. A little orange juice and a lump of sugar is an improvement to the sauce.

Pheasant Stewed with Cabbage.

Truss a pheasant for boiling. Divide a large cabbage into quarters, soak them after cutting off the stalks, plunge them into boiling water and boil for about ten minutes. Take them out, drain them and press all the water from them, then put them into the stewpan. Lay the pheasant well in the cabbage, add six ounces of good bacon, half a pound of Bologna sausage, three pork sausages, some parsley, a bayleaf, a bouquet garni, one carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a shalot, and some pepper. Pour in as much stock as will cover the whole, and cover the pan closely and bring to a boil and let it simmer slowly for an hour. Then take out the bird and the meat and keep them warm whilst the cabbage is drained, peppered, and salted, and steamed over fire till dry. Then place it on a dish, arrange the pheasant on it and all the other adjuncts round it. Serve poivrade sauce in a tureen.

Pheasant Stuffed with Oysters.

Truss a pheasant for roasting and fill it with forcemeat made of two dozen oysters pounded in the mortar, with a tablespoonful of brown breadcrumbs, half an ounce of fresh butter, a dessertspoonful of lemon juice, a boned anchovy, and a little cayenne. Mix these ingredients thoroughly and bind them with the yolk of an egg. Cover the bird with thin slices of fat bacon tied on securely, and roast before a clear fire. When done, dish up with clear gravy, and hand bread sauce in a tureen with it.

Pheasant Stuffed with Tomatoes.

Truss a pheasant for roasting, and fill it with a forcemeat made of six tomatoes pounded in the mortar, with a tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, a shalot, a mushroom, half a clove of garlic, a teaspoonful of parsley, and half an ounce of butter, pepper and salt to taste. Bind together with the yolk of an egg. Cover the bird with slices of bacon and roast before a clear fire. Mushroom or tomato sauce may be served in a tureen with it. Partridge and grouse are also very delicious stuffed in this way.

Pheasant en Surprise.

Take a pheasant, remove the skin from the breast and take away all the meat, removing any gristle there may be, and place it in a mortar. Have ready half a pint of good cream, and begin by pouring half the quantity over the pheasant and pound together for a few minutes, then rub it through a clean wire sieve. When passed, put it back into the mortar, add the remainder of the cream gradually into the fowl, stirring it round so that they blend together perfectly. Fill a mould with this mixture and twist a bit of buttered paper round the top; then fold a sheet of paper several times and place it in a stewpan, put about half a pint of boiling water into the stewpan, or more according to size of it, and let all simmer gently for twenty minutes. Add a little salt and a dust of cayenne pepper. Turn this out and mix with it half a pint of white aspic jelly. Have ready some very clear aspic jelly, and colour it red. Take a pretty shaped jelly mould, pour in a little of the red aspic to about rather more than a quarter of the mould. When this is cool, put in the pheasant and aspic mixture, and place on ice for four hours; when properly frozen, turn out, and garnish the top with a wreath of fresh chervil leaves. Serve chopped aspic in little mounds round the base alternately with mounds of mayonnaise salad or tomatoes.

Pheasant à la Suisse.

Take the remains of a cold pheasant, cut it into neat joints. Salt and pepper these highly, and strew over it finely chopped onion and parsley. Cover them with oil, and squeeze over them the juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces every now and then, and let them remain till they have imbibed the flavour, then dip the pieces in a batter made of four ounces of flour, with as much milk added as will make a thick batter. Stir into it half a wineglassful of brandy and an egg, the white and yolk beaten to a froth. This batter should rest for an hour in a warm place before using. Fry the pieces of chicken in the batter, and send it up piled on a dish garnished with fried parsley.

Pheasant à la Tregothran.

Bone a pheasant and stuff it with the meat from four woodcocks or six snipe, cut it up, and chop up some truffles and make it into forcemeat. Fry the trail of the woodcock or snipe in a little butter, and place on little rounds of fried bread and arrange round the dish. Stew the bones of the woodcocks or snipe to make the gravy, reduce it, and add a glass of Marsala to the broth and serve in a boat.

Pheasant à la Victoria.

Take a quarter of a pound of bacon, cut it up in pieces (frying the bacon first), add a small clove of garlic, a small shalot, a bayleaf, half a carrot, half a turnip, half a dozen stewing oysters, and salt and pepper to taste. Stew over the fire, and when cooked pound it all together with a few more oysters and pass through a wire sieve. Stuff a pheasant with this, and place it in a stewpan with carrots and turnips; let all stew till tender, well basting it with its own stock. Serve with rich Espagnole sauce or oyster sauce on a croustade of potato.

Pigeons à la Duchesse.

Split a couple of pigeons in halves, remove the breast bones and beat them flat, sauté them with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt. Press them flat between two plates with a weight on them, and when the pigeons are cold spread the quenelle meat over the cut side of the birds; then egg and breadcrumb them and fry in fat. Dish in a circle with brown sauce round and a macédoine of vegetables in the centre.

Pigeons à la Financière.

Take four pigeons, truss and braise them in stock, then glaze them, dish them up against a block of fried bread. Pour round half a pint of Financière sauce, and garnish with small quenelles of forcemeat, truffles, mushrooms, and cockscombs in the centre.

Pigeons à la Merveilleuse.

Blanch a brace of pigeons, and beat the backs so as to spread out the breasts, boil them in equal quantities of stock and Chablis, season with salt and pepper, a sprig of parsley, two shalots, and two cloves; when cooked, take them out of the stewpan, and cook some mushrooms, twelve shelled crayfish, and a little flour in the sauce of the pigeons, boil for half an hour, reduce and thicken the sauce with yolks of egg and cream, season with finely chopped parsley and pour over the pigeons, and serve garnished with the heads of the crayfish.

Ballotines of Pigeon à la Moderne.

Take four boned pigeons, cut them lengthways in two, and make a farce of half a pound of pork sausage meat, half a spoonful of chopped truffles, the same of mushrooms, a few pieces of tongue cut into dice shapes, a bouquet garni, pepper and salt, and one yolk of an egg, all well mixed together. Then divide it into eight equal parts, and fill the halves of the pigeons with it; make them into round balls, cutting off the feet. Tie each piece of pigeon in a little bit of calico, and braise them till nicely tender. Then let them cool, tie them up tightly, and let them get quite cold; place one of the feet in each ballotine, and arrange them on a sauté-pan. Take off the calico, make them hot and glaze them, and serve with mushrooms and peas, and with a rich brown sauce over them.

Pigeons en Poqueton.

Put some pâté de foie gras forcemeat, or any other forcemeat, into a small stewpan, and spread it all over at the bottom and sides, rubbing the stewpan first with butter. Put in a couple of pigeons trussed for roasting, some sweetbreads and tongue cut into neat pieces, and some button mushrooms; arrange all these tastily in the pan, place some more forcemeat on the top, cover it over with slices of bacon, and bake it in a gentle oven. Before closing it, pour some good gravy inside. The pigeons should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and just rubbed with garlic. When it is cooked, take it from the oven, and turn it carefully out into its dish, and pour a very rich sauce over it.

Pigeon en Ragoût de Crevettes.