THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI FROM THE BLUFFS OF NATCHEZ

THE GATES OF DUNLEITH

NOLA NANCE OLIVER

Natchez
SYMBOL OF THE OLD SOUTH

HASTINGS HOUSE · PUBLISHERS · NEW YORK

MONTEIGNE—Stairhall

This book is dedicated to Louise and Mary.

Copyright, 1940, by Nola Nance Oliver. Printed in the U. S. A.

Foreword

Natchez derives its name from the sun-worshiping Indian tribe, the Natchez, who were the original owners of the area on which the city is located. It is situated in Adams county, in the southwestern part of the state of Mississippi, on bluffs 200 feet high overlooking the Mississippi River, and is midway between Memphis and New Orleans. It is accessible by railway, steamboat, motor highway and airway. It is particularly proud of the Natchez Trace Parkway, a modern concrete road over an old Indian trace or trail from Nashville to Natchez. This highway is a link in one of the most important commercial and historic highways in the United States reaching from Washington, D. C., to Mexico.

Today Natchez is a recognized center of interest because in the city and its vicinity there are a greater number of original ante-bellum mansions than in any other community in America—some 75 or more.

Natchez is the second oldest town in the United States, being next in age to St. Augustine, Florida. It has lived under five different flags, each of which contributed romantic flavor to the section. From 1714 to 1763 it was under the flag of France; from 1764 to 1780 under the flag of England; and from 1780 to 1798 under the flag of Spain. In 1798 the first United States flag in the Lower Mississippi Valley was raised in Natchez. Years after the raising of the “stars and stripes”, another flag which some call “the conquered banner”, the beloved flag of the Confederate States of America, floated over Natchez, 1861-’65.

Natchez “Under the Hill” applies to that part of the town along the water front and under the bluffs. It flourished during the heyday of steamboating on the Mississippi. The inroads of the river have washed away the streets, and only a few buildings remain. One very interesting home, “Magnolia Vale”, has been preserved and is presented in this book.

The majority of these old homes contain original pieces of furniture, china, coin silver service, draperies, carpets, wall decorations of exquisite workmanship, huge mirrors in massive goldleaf frames, paintings bearing authentic signatures of great masters, and hand-carved marble mantels. Laces, silks, and rich costumes are displayed today by third, fourth and fifth generations.

It seems hardly possible that the world could move on and leave one small community undisturbed in its ancient grandeur. The hand of destiny seems indeed to uphold and enshrine this hallowed region. The estates have descended from generation to generation, many of them today being owned and occupied by descendants of the original owners.

Natchezians have been entirely satisfied, even proud, to be termed “provincial”. A sense of inherent aristocracy has given these people a secure and placid self-sufficiency which neither time nor stress of outside conditions nor the frettings of progress can jar or mar.

Within the past ten years tourists have come. They clamored for entertainment. And now, maintaining the established reputation for “hospitality of the true South”, each Spring season Natchez opens wide her gates and invites the world to come “where the Old South still lives”.

The “company dress” of great-grandparents, which has been sacredly stored away for scores of years, is brought out, and overnight the whole town, in manners and dress, returns to those halcyon days of long ago. The streets are filled with young and old in ante-bellum costumes. Sweet olive trees and magnolia trees are in fragrant bloom, flower gardens are fresh and inviting, moss-draped oaks ring with the song of native birds, the old homes are opened, treasures are placed on view, and visitors are given a Southland welcome. The “Pilgrimage” is on!

In addition to guided tours through ante-bellum houses special entertainments are planned for each evening. Confederate balls, historical pageants, and many other colorful events of the past are re-enacted. Spirituals are sung in old-fashioned Negro churches where the “pahson” is eager to greet “our white friends”. On spacious plantation grounds an old-time Southern barbecue prepared by black mammies will be served.

A custom which has long prevailed in Natchez is the placing of coins in a box for old darky beggars. On Saturdays every merchant observes “Penny Day”, as it is called. It originated as a time saver, the box being placed in a convenient location to avoid interruption of the store’s business. There are many regular “customers” for this feature and they are always welcome. “Penny Day” is a thoughtful, good-natured gesture to the needy Negro from his “white folks”.

Pictures of the old homes with accurate data and intimate stories and legends constitute Natchez, Symbol of the Old South. Most of the photographs are by Earl Norman.

A fascinating visit is given you by one who knows and loves the Southland. You will be delighted and enriched.

Uncle Wash, a Regular Customer on Penny Day

The Natchez Tribe

A bronze plaque of a handsome Indian chief has been erected in a granite wall overlooking the great “Father of Waters”, in memory of the Natchez Indian tribe from which the city of Natchez derives its name.

The Natchez Indians were of Aztec origin and were in possession of the Natchez country when the French came in 1700. They were sun-worshiping Indians, and their great chief proclaimed himself “brother to the Sun”.

White Apple village, ten miles south of Natchez, was headquarters of the Natchez tribe. They resented the invasion of the French explorers into their country, and because of an insult (real or fancied) to their Chief by a French Commandant, on November 28, 1729, the Indians slaughtered the entire French settlement at Fort Rosalie. Later a French colony, with the assistance of the Choctaws, a warring Indian tribe, annihilated every member of the Natchez tribe.

Undoubtedly this was the country of the Natchez tribe, and the beautiful plaque is a deserved reminder of the days when the land was one hundred per cent American.

ON NATCHEZ TRACE

Natchez Trace

Opportunity for easy travel, over trails that were once Indian foot paths, is offered now to motorists on perfect concrete highways. Modern roads, which slowly evolved from dirt roads to paved highways, stretch from Nashville, Tennessee, in a continuous smooth concrete ribbon to Natchez, on the great Mississippi River.

Days when the beauty of the Southland could be viewed only from a steamboat deck; days when transportation of passenger and freight could be handled only by oxcart or slow stage coach or horse and buggy (a three-weeks journey from Nashville to Natchez) are gone forever, and soon the Deep South will be directly connected by a day’s pleasant journey with all the cities and towns along the Natchez Trace.

By treaty with Choctaw and Chickasaw Indian tribes the United States Government in 1801 secured a permit to open the Natchez Trace as a wagon road over which the mails could travel.

That same trail or “trace” from Nashville to Natchez is 500 miles of consecutive beauty spots along continuous acres of parkways and historic highways.

Mrs. Roan Fleming Byrnes, serving as President of the Natchez Trace Highway Committee, in a recent publication says:

“The ancient trail was traveled by most of the well-known figures in the history of our country: Jefferson Davis; Peggy and Lorenzo Dow, the revivalists; the fast riding John Morgan; the famous Audubon. Lafayette rode over the Trace during his visit to the Natchez country; Aaron Burr was given his preliminary trial for treason under two liveoaks just beside the Trace; Meriwether Lewis died at an inn on the Trace when returning from his Western explorations.

“The life of Andrew Jackson is closely interwoven with the windings of the Natchez Trace. At Springfield plantation, in Jefferson county, Mississippi, Jackson was married to Rachael Robards; and, near Nashville, Tennessee, is the ‘Hermitage’, the home he built for Rachael.

“It was when marching his rejected Tennessee militia homeward over the Trace from Natchez to Nashville in 1813 that Jackson acquired his famous nickname, ‘Old Hickory’.”

The unusual beauty of the deep cut roadways, worn down by travel throughout the years, and the overlapping, moss-draped trees, will be preserved as far as possible.

Many of these old roads running into Natchez lead through deep, tunnel-like ways whose sides are sheer walls ten to eighty feet high and draped with long fronds of overhanging Spanish moss.

These roadways of tunnels and curves are weird and beautiful, affording an irresistible attraction for all travelers.

Airlie

Built prior to 1790, “Airlie” is a rambling, wide-spread building of cottage type, on a rolling elevation at the end of Myrtle street. It attracts attention through its unusual simplicity of exterior. Its architecture is entirely different from other ante-bellum homes in the community.

This great departure from the usual style is due to the age of Airlie. Its original building date is ahead of all the available history of Natchez.

Additions have been made, from time to time, until today Airlie stands twelve rooms broad, reaching a row of venerable cedars with their swaying moss which sweeps the eaves of this old home of the Ayres P. Merrill family.

The central portion is built on old Spanish style, with beams and timbers held together by wooden pegs; later additions show that these were made by somewhat improved methods.

Airlie is often referred to as “the old Buckner home”. It was occupied by the Buckner family at the time of its first recorded history and during the War Between the States when conflicts at Airlie left blood stains on its floors and walls which are clearly visible today.

This house was for a time used as a hospital for Northern soldiers.

When Airlie passed from the Buckner family it became the property of another family of distinction, that of Ayres P. Merrill, whose descendants occupy Airlie today, with its treasure of rosewood and mahogany antiques.

The present Merrill family are the proud possessors of hundreds of pieces of Du Barry and other imported china from France and Belgium, as well as a silver service of rare design and sacred antiquity which might well excite the envy of Royalty itself.

There are many persons who believe Airlie was the first residence built in the Natchez territory. No definite date in authentic records can be found.

Arlington

Where Natchez’ Main street ends, the great wide gates of Arlington open. Live oaks with pendant gray moss line the driveway, which winds through beds of vari-colored irises to one of the most distinctively attractive ante-bellum homes in the South.

Of Southern Colonial type, constructed of red brick with stately white Tuscan columns supporting the upper story gallery, Arlington today, more than a century old, presents a magnificent appearance.

The great carved entrance door leading to the spacious hall is crowned with intricately wrought fanlights, and the broad veranda is approached by wide steps of concrete.

Arlington was built for Mrs. Jane White, eldest daughter of Pierre Surget, who came from France in the early days of Natchez. The house was completed about 1820 but on the very first night of her residence in the home of her heart’s desire Mrs. White passed away suddenly. Many tales have been told of a mysterious death but none has been verified. At her death Mrs. White left Arlington and all its treasures to her sister, Mrs. Bingaman.

HALL

IMPOSING COLUMNED DOORWAY LEADING FROM HALL

Five generations of the Pierre Surget family occupied Arlington. Each in turn contributed to its wealth of rare treasures. The original furniture was imported from France.

Across the broad hallway which is hung with rare paintings by old-world masters such as Vernet, Baroccio, Carlo Dolci, and Coccanari, is the Music Room which contains a spinet more than three hundred years old. There are family portraits in this room—some of musicians in the family—by such renowned artists as Sully, Audubon, Albani, Fidanza, and Maratti.

The Library holds some five thousand books.

Mrs. Hubert Barnum, the present owner of Arlington, comes from a long line of Natchez aristocracy. Arlington was given her as a wedding gift from her husband, who recently passed away. Mrs. Barnum while keeping the home atmosphere of Arlington has made it, also, a veritable private museum, rich in beauty, in rare books, and antiques.

Auburn

Built in 1812, a full century and a quarter ago, by Dr. Stephen Duncan, “Auburn” mansion is noted today as in bygone historic days for its architectural beauty and the natural beauty of its surrounding acres.

Auburn is a magnificent red brick structure with great white columns supporting its broad front galleries. The bricks were made on the premises by slave labor. On the first floor are spacious drawing rooms, a large dining room, a family dining room, library, smoking room, and two hallways. Above stairs are six huge bedrooms with high ceilings.

In the rear of the main mansion is a two-storied brick kitchen which is connected with the main building by a flagged patio. The servants’ quarters are above with the kitchen and pantries on the ground floor. The kitchen has the giant fireplace with cranes and pots and the old-time “spit” where meats were roasted.

Entrance to Auburn is through a classic doorway which has been aptly called “an architect’s dream of beauty”.

Classic Entrance Doorway

Grand Hallway

Inside the house there is a majestic spiral stairway rising to the grand high hallway, without support except at its base. This amazing feature intrigues the imagination.

In early days Auburn entertained many celebrities, among them Henry Clay, Edward Everett Hale, and John Howard Payne. The same gracious hospitality maintains today.

Auburn is the property of the city of Natchez by deed of gift from Stephen Duncan, and is used as the deed stipulates for the “amusement, entertainment, and recreation, without cost or monetary consideration, of Natchez citizens”. It is the handsome headquarters of several distinguished local clubs.

The women’s clubs of Natchez have undertaken the task of furnishing the lower floor with valuable antiques of the period of its original furnishings.

The acreage surrounding it is known as Duncan Park in compliment to the Duncan family who gave it to the city. It contains huge, aged, moss-draped oaks, alluring sweet olive trees, famous magnolias, shrubbery and vines, old-fashioned gardens, a golf course, and playground with swings and merry-go-rounds used every day in the year for the health and frolic of children.

The Unsupported Spiral Stairway Rises to the Grand Hallway.

Old Milk House. Slaves pumped cool cistern water into long zinc vats providing Auburn’s cooling system for its crocks of milk.

Food prepared in the kitchen below the servants’ quarters was carried in hot urns to dining rooms by servants stationed along “the ways”.

Belmont

Sturdy as the Rock of Gibraltar stands this imposing Neo-Greek mansion. It was known originally as “Cleremont”, and was built in the early 40’s by one Loxley Thistle.

Storm and strife have beaten against the doors of this stronghold but it was built after a disastrous tornado which put a great fear in the minds of builders of that period, and Belmont (as it was renamed) was constructed to resist fierce storms, although at the same time exquisite lines of beauty were maintained.

This place with its thirty acres of land has changed hands oftener than any ante-bellum home in Natchez. Its history is broken and uncertain. It was undoubtedly built by imported craftsmen who had the help of local carpenters and slave labor.

Many prominent families of Natchez are identified with Belmont at some period in its history. Within its fort-like walls Natchez elite often sipped rare old wine from its private sub-cellar in frequent celebrations.

Belmont has its ghost story of whispering souls wandering through the high-ceilinged halls—ghosts created to scare the slaves, and “whispers” which proved to be the swishing of chimney swallows rushing in and out of their nests.

The approach to Belmont is a majestic line of moss-draped cedars and giant oak trees standing sentinel-like over the gardens of days long passed.

Louis Fry, present owner, plans the complete restoration of Belmont. It may soon ring with echoes of happier days.

Belvidere

On Homochitto street, in the shadow of magnificent “Dunleith”, is a simple white cottage, “Belvidere”, which for generations has been the home of the Henderson family.

Originally Belvidere was the center of a fourteen acre tract of wooded land which was the property of Christopher Miller, who was secretary to the Spanish Governor of Natchez, Gayoso de Lemos. The Hendersons are descendants of Christopher Miller.

Simple and unostentatious this small cottage stands with her very toes, as it were, on the street where once broad acreage spread. These acres gave space in later years for a public school and a paved highway.

Belvidere is more than 100 years old, and has been for more than a century owned and occupied by one family.

It is simply furnished, and much of it is the original furniture, more than 100 years old. Two pictures of special interest adorn the walls, silhouettes of Samuel Brooks and his wife—“the first Mayor of Natchez and his Lady”. These pictures were made in 1753.

Rare Venetian glass and china and many exquisite pieces of porcelain are found in Belvidere.

The property is now owned and occupied by Mrs. Florence Henderson Kelly and her son and daughter, Thomas G. and Ellen N.

Brandon Hall

This old home is not in the immediate Natchez area but its owner and his descendants are so closely allied with all that is Natchez that Brandon Hall is rightfully considered a Natchez asset and is included in its list of ante-bellum homes.

Gerard Brandon of Ireland came to Natchez prior to the Revolutionary War, and more than a century ago “Selma Plantation”, from whose acres came the grounds of Brandon Hall, was built by him. Mr. Brandon was a successful farmer and was one of the original pecan growers in the county. He came to Natchez from South Carolina.

Brandon Hall was built by Gerard Brandon the Third in 1856, and stands today a splendid monument to a grand old family. It is sturdily constructed. Its timbers are secured with thumb screws and wooden pegs.

Cherry Grove

Built of primeval timbers, cut and hewn by slaves on the place, the old home at Cherry Grove plantation “sits tight” secured by dependable wooden pegs. It was built in 1788 when time and expense of labor were of little consideration, and nails and modern building equipment were not available.

Pierre Surget of La Rochelle, France, built this Spanish style house, on a Spanish land grant, for his wife, Katherine d’Hubert, and from this couple have come some of Natchez’ most prominent families.

Mr. Surget was a seaman for many years before coming to the Natchez country, and Cherry Grove was built with the sturdiness of a seaworthy vessel.

The home has never passed out of the Surget family. Its present owner, Mrs. Carlotta Surget McKittrick, now possesses the original Spanish land grant made to Pierre Surget in the 1700’s.

In a small cemetery within sight of the old home, enclosed by an imported iron fence, lie the bodies of Pierre Surget and his wife, Katherine.

Descendants of the Surget slaves remain in the “quarters” to look after the place, and to plant and gather cotton from its vast acres.

The house is unoccupied. Much of the original furnishing remains intact, and a Surget heir is today sole owner of the quaint old dwelling of her illustrious forbears.

The Briers

Varina Howell and Jefferson Davis Were Married in This Room.

Could Jefferson Davis and his beloved wife, Varina, return to The Briers today they would be pleased to find it in a perfect state of preservation.

“The Briers”, a typical story-and-a-half country home, was given to Louise Kemp at the time of her marriage to William Burr Howell, who was a cousin of Aaron Burr. And here Varina Howell was born May 7, 1826. This home was the scene of Varina’s marriage to Jefferson Davis on February 12, 1845. Mr. Davis later became “President of the Confederacy”.

The house is situated on a knoll overlooking the Mississippi river, with a view of the cotton lands of Louisiana. The view of the Mississippi shown in the end papers was taken from the lawn of this house. It stands in the center of a forest of oak, pine, and pecan trees, and can be reached by only one narrow winding roadway, through deep woods, around bayous and ravines, hanging heavy with bushes and brambles. The house is quite similar to the Virginia type of country home.

When the present owner, Mrs. W. W. Wall, purchased The Briers a few years ago, it was in a sad state of dilapidation. By great and loving labor, and generous expenditure of money and time, The Briers today is in perfect condition. It is now a charming credit to Natchez and to the memory of Jefferson Davis and his wife, Varina.

The early architectural lines have been followed and materials similar to the original ones have been used. The broad veranda across the entire front, with many small wooden pillars and hand-turned spindle bannisters, the wide entrance steps, the quaint old dormer windows with their 12-pane sashes and heavy green blinds, form the perfect picture of the original plantation home of the Howells and Jefferson Davis.

The simplicity of the floor plan is pleasing. The furniture includes many reproductions of rare original pieces. There is a restful, sacred serenity in The Briers worthy of its illustrious original owners.

For the pleasure of visitors from the outside world, the present mistress keeps open house throughout the year, and hundreds of interested persons from every part of the United States pass through the portals of this home—the shrine of Jefferson Davis and Varina Howell.

The Burn

Another old home that was once situated in the center of vast acreage is “The Burn”. Streets have been cut through, lots sold and residences erected until today this quaint old home, originally the residence of John P. Walworth of Ohio, is in the very heart of the residence district of Natchez.

While the “old Walworth home”, as it was so long known, was built about 1834, its most interesting history is concerned with the war of 1861-65.

The Burn is a homey-looking house of the story-and-a-half cottage type with spacious halls and nineteen rooms in the main building. High ceilings, mahogany woodwork, and wide, hand-rubbed board floors are indicative of its early period.

By reason of its spacious and numerous rooms, and its accessibility to the river front and the Battery, “The Burn” was made headquarters for the Federal Artillery in the War Between the States. With only 24 hours’ notice the family left their comfortable home to be occupied by the enemy. Major Coleman and his soldiers took possession of The Burn, and today on a window pane in the house can be seen the Major’s full name as cut there by a diamond more than seventy-five years ago.

Within the last few years The Burn has been purchased by S. B. Laub, who is a direct descendant of the Beekman family. Mr. and Mrs. Laub have reclaimed and rebuilt every part of the old house with strict observance of the original architecture.

An Interesting Treatment Of Transom And Side Lights

A letter from the granddaughter of the original owner of The Burn written to its present owners and published in the Natchez Democrat tells the complete story:

“The Burn property when purchased by John P. Walworth in 1834 extended from Union street to Clifton Heights. The home was erected the same year, and got its name from the Scotch, meaning ‘The Brook’, which ran through the property where Pearl street now is.

“Architects and builders were brought from the East, the finest that could be found. It took more than a year to build, and has been compared to the Temple, for scarcely the sound of hammer was heard in its erection. The grand old home has stood fire, storm, and war.

“When Grant’s army took possession of the town, The Burn became army headquarters, and was later turned into a hospital for Union soldiers. The wonderful old trees, the lawn and gardens fell before the axe and sword.

“After war clouds rolled away it was restored to its owner in a ruined condition. Generations have passed over its threshold loving it as a living being. The sons of the family bravely answered their country’s call to arms and returned with untarnished records. Many brides have left its loving care. The mystery of life, birth and death have hallowed its walls with pride and sorrow.

“We relinquish our ownership rights into other hands; our escutcheon unsullied by debt or shame.

“We rejoice that it will be again a loved home, and may the happiness of the Walworth name continue to follow and bless the present owners.”

Choctaw

Such dilapidated grandeur cannot be found in all the country around as one beholds at Choctaw. “Built to endure and determined not to fall” seems to ring from every stone and pillar of this gigantic old mansion. Once it was the center of a city block but now on the busy corner of Wall and High streets traffic of every sort brushes its very door.

Because this property was so long owned and occupied by a Natchez philanthropist, Alvarez Fisk, “Choctaw” is known far and wide as the “old Fisk home”.

This stately example of classic architecture was built by one Sarah Neibert. Records show that it was deeded to Alvarez Fisk about 1840. Fisk was born in Massachusetts in 1788. During the early 90’s Choctaw was used as “Stanton College for Women”, and many Natchez women were educated there.

Time and decay have had their turn at Choctaw. The great stone pillars stand proudly, and boldly present a magnificent front; exquisite fanlights adorn the great doors which were built extra wide to accommodate the hoopskirted ladies of early days; walls and lofty ceilings stand in sturdy defiance of wind and rain and vandalism, and yet the crumbling corners, the tumbling formal entrance, and the rundown appearance of Choctaw produce a feeling of solemn sadness.

The foundation and walls of Choctaw are firm, and the day may come when this old palace will be restored to its former beauty and glory.

Concord

“Concord” was built in 1788 by Don Gayoso de Lemos, representative in the Natchez Territory of the King of Spain.

The name, “Concord”, was chosen because the Governor felt that this word expressed the status of his people living in peace and amity.

The dwelling was two-and-a-half stories. The lower floor was of brick and the upper portion was frame. There was a driveway beneath the long flight of steps at the front entrance. The house was richly furnished with importations from Spain.

A few years ago “Concord” was destroyed by fire and Natchez lost an intriguing landmark.

Today the handsome iron-railed outside double stairway marks the spot that was once the ruling center of government, and the social hub during the colorful days of the Spanish regime.

COTTAGE GARDENS—STAIR HALL

Cottage Gardens

When “Cottage Gardens” was built, some hundred and forty years ago, Natchez was young, and homes at that time were of compact, inconspicuous design.

The land upon which this home stands was a part of the original Spanish grant to Don Jose Vidal, a young Spanish nobleman. “Cottage Gardens” was so named because of the beautiful gardens surrounding the cottage. It is recorded that these gardens were destroyed during the War Between the States when Union soldiers used the grounds as a pasture for their horses.

Don Jose Vidal was a military governor and Captain in a Spanish army. His duties took him across the river from Natchez to a place now known as Vidalia. When his beloved young wife died her tomb was built on a high bluff on the estate overlooking the Mississippi River. While engaged in official service across the broad waters, Capt. Vidal could look out at any moment and see the spot where his beautiful Donna Vidal was buried. Don Jose is buried in a Natchez Cemetery. A great shaft has been erected above his grave and is inscribed with a lengthy epitaph which mentions that “he was a friend of his Sovereign”.

LIVING ROOM AND DINING ROOM

Cottage Gardens has been for several generations owned and occupied by the Foster family. Although the exterior is on simple lines, the house is surprisingly spacious. The wide hall through the center contains a stairway of unusual architectural attractiveness. Its broad steps with mahogany handrailing lead up along the left wall almost to the ceiling, then leaving the wall the stairway crosses the hall in a graceful spiral curve and the ascending flight is finished along the right wall.

At the rear end of the hall is a beautiful arch and doorway with fanlight above and plain side glass. It is a facsimile of the entrance door at the opposite end of the hall.

From the present owners, the Foster family, comes Mary Kate Norman, the wife of Karl Norman, whose photographic art in picturing the old homes of Natchez has given him a prominent place among artists of the South.

This family room in Cottage Gardens has an eight foot bed and a child’s bed.

THE TOMB OF DONE JOSE VIDAL

D’Evereux

By recent engineering survey Highway No. 61 from Memphis to New Orleans passes the grounds that once formed a part of D’Evereux acres. Motorists on this highway, when within a mile of Natchez, can see this mansion, in perfect architecture, standing like a great Greek temple near the roadway. Sweeping tropical moss hangs from the sentinel oaks which guard this magnificent home.

Built in 1840 for William St. John Elliott and his wife, it was given her family name, “D’Evereux”, and this home, one of the most spacious in the community, was the scene of many happy affairs for the socially prominent.

Great double drawing rooms and a banquet room, while not containing the original furnishings, show woodwork and walls, hand-turned railings and doorways, evidence of the excellent taste of the builders.

After more than forty years the master-owner of D’Evereux died. The home was closed for a long while; later the widow with some of her young relatives opened the mansion and it became again the scene of many joyful gatherings.

Upon the death of Mrs. Elliott, “D’Evereux” was willed to her niece, Mrs. Margaret Martin Shields. During Mrs. Shields’ occupancy, it was selected as the most perfect home, in style and setting, in the entire Southland, and for this reason it is shown in that exquisite motion picture, “The Heart of Maryland”.

Within the past few years D’Evereux has been purchased by Miss Myra Smith of Chicago. With great pride in the ownership of one of the South’s most majestic ante-bellum homes, Miss Smith has restored every portion of the old home, which today presents such magnificent perfection as to bring forth exclamations of wonder from all who travel that section of the Natchez Trace highway.

Cherokee

One of the most attractive of Natchez’ ante-bellum houses is the recently reclaimed Cherokee, built in 1794 by Jesse Greenfield on land acquired under Spanish grant.

In 1810 David Michie purchased the property and added the classic front. The present owner, Mr. Charles Byrnes, has reclaimed the old Irish Manor House and its grounds, using wherever possible the style and materials of the original.

Cherokee stands on a great elevation overlooking Natchez. It is across the street from Choctaw and within calling distance of Connelly’s Tavern on Ellicott Hill.

Dunleith

This house, built in 1849 by Gen. Dahlgreen, is situated in perfectly kept terraced grounds, surrounded by symmetrically planted oak trees which have grown to giant size. A long driveway from the tall iron gate at the street entrance to the porch steps bring one to “Dunleith”, a veritable Greek temple.

Dunleith is almost one hundred years old. The land on which it stands is part of a Spanish grant of 700 acres, and was the site of the original home which was destroyed by fire (caused by lightning) in 1845. In the rear of the present Dunleith are the stables which belonged to the original house.

At the death of Leslie Carpenter a few years ago this property was inherited by his widow and her son, J. N. Carpenter. No more perfect example of a Colonial mansion of the Old South can be found. The house and grounds are under the constant care of scientific gardeners and caretakers.

The story of Dunleith is incomplete until its legend has been told:

“At the court of Louis Philippe, last King of France, a lady in waiting was Miss Isabel Percy, who visited Dunleith to try to forget a terrible heart hurt. She played the harp, and sang in a beautiful voice. At evening, just at dusk, her sweet mournful songs can still be heard in the parlors of Dunleith. When twilight turns to darkness, the swish of her silken skirts can be heard as she ascends the broad stairway to her private rooms above.”

I know not how true this tale may be,

I tell it as ’twas told to me.

Edgewood

Edgewood, erected in 1855, shared with “Mount Repose” the distinction of being a part of the original Bisland estate. It is a simple plantation home, located on the Pine Ridge road, and is today occupied by direct descendants of the original owner, who maintain the estate as nearly as possible in accord with the original plans.

Situated on rolling greensward with a declivity at the rear, the house is two stories in front and three in the back. Straight, square lines are observed in its architecture. A porch extends across the entire front supported by double white columns. The outlook is into a group of restful, moss-covered oaks in the midst of which is a natural pond.

Edgewood is the home of Mr. and Mrs. S. H. Lamden, who with their young sons, S. H. III and Waldo, occupy this home of their forefathers. It is kept, from day to day, in the same style of ante-bellum home as in days gone by.

Many descendants of the original slaves of the Lamdens live today in the “quarters” on the place.

From “Beaupres” and other old plantations have come many possessions of rarest antiquity to Edgewood. There are portraits by the famous artist James Reed Lamden; among these is an exquisite portrait of his mother, who was Prudence Harrison; another is of Dr. John Flavel Carmichael, a member of the original staff of George Washington, painted by Gilbert Stuart.

Furnishings at Edgewood are of soft tones in rosewood and mahogany. Drawing rooms, dining room, and bed rooms are filled with valuable antiques—all in daily use by the present family. Edgewood retains today all the charm and beauty that it had nearly a hundred years ago.

Elgin

The history of “Elgin” dates from about 1838 when it was owned by the Dunbar family, and was named Elgin for the Dunbar estate in Scotland.

It is about eight miles from Natchez, and for many years was the home of the Jenkins family, whose descendants are prominent citizens of Natchez. Mr. Jenkins was a member of the Academy of Natural Science, and gave much time and scientific attention to the grounds of Elgin.

The old-fashioned frame building with spacious halls and wide galleries stands on a knoll in a broad clearing surrounded by a forest of oaks and pecans.

In 1914 Capt. Jenkins sold Elgin to the late Thornton Green of Michigan. Prior to that transfer “Elgin” while changing owners, each time was bought by descendants of its original owner.

Elgin was far-famed for its gardens and orchards, traces of which remain today and are being reclaimed by the latest purchasers of the property, Mr. and Mrs. W. S. R. Beane of New York and Natchez. The Beanes will make “Elgin” their permanent home.

Elms

Amid great elm trees and sturdy liveoaks is a wide, rambling house, its galleries bannistered with graceful iron grill encircling three sides of the structure. This is “Elms”, it is the home of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Kellogg. It is a close neighbor of the “Greenleaves” estate.

Elms was for a long time known as “the old Drake home”. Its intricate rambling porticos, unusual stairway, and beautiful gardens came to the Kelloggs by fortunate inheritance. Mrs. Kellogg is a direct descendant of the Drake family. Benjamin Drake was president of Elizabeth College, which has the distinction of being the first college in the United States to permit the teaching of branches of higher education to women.

With the home and its acres of lovely gardens Mrs. Kellogg inherited a house filled with rare antique rosewood furniture.

The main building of Elms, a two-and-a-half-story structure, was built in the late 1700’s. The exact date is not disclosed by available old records. As the property passed from descendant to descendant rooms have been added.

A striking feature of the house is a lacy wrought-iron stairway unlike any other in all America and believed to have been imported from Portugal. The stairway is built in a corridor, and is in harmony with the generous display of dainty, hand-turned work around the outer galleries.

Ceilings are low and give Spanish atmosphere to the architecture.

A series of old call bells, each with a different tone to indicate the location, are still in use in the various rooms.

The famous gardens in the rear have been reclaimed by the present mistress of Elms. Winding walks lead along flower beds of old-fashioned petunias, brilliant verbenas, phlox, roses and azaleas, edged with prim cut boxwood, while giant yuccas stand stiff as formal guards with white plumed headdress.

A great part of the original Elms estate has been sold, and today one of Natchez’ modern school buildings stands across the street, giving the children of this school a daily picture lesson of home and life of the proud Old South.

Ellicott Hill

Artists and architects from far and near come to see the quaint old house, known as “Connelly’s Tavern”, on Ellicott Hill. It is a sturdy, perfectly proportioned old house, built of brick and wood, its timbers said to have come from abandoned sailing vessels.

The style of architecture is early Spanish. It stands on a high elevation, overlooking with aristocratic disdain the industrial enterprises which have come in during the years to supplant the once exclusive neighborhood of its original outlook. In early days, about the end of the Civil War, the place was known as “Gilreath’s Hill”.

The tavern was built in 1795. It has been occupied by many distinguished families.

The records show that at one time it was the home of “The Natchez High School”. It was so used just after the War between the States, when it was purchased by Wilson R. Gilreath.

Within the last few years the old building has commanded the greatest degree of public interest. Its historic value is unmatched. In addition to serving as the abode of many celebrated men, it attained fame as Connelly’s Tavern when Aaron Burr and Blennerhasset met therein for secret conferences.

The most outstanding historic fact of the old Hill, itself, is that it is the spot whereon Col. Andrew Ellicott raised the first United States flag in February 1797 over the District of Natchez. Since that episode the spot has been known as “Ellicott Hill”.

Dilapidation followed the wake of time. However, so sturdy were its timbers and so solid its foundation, it was possible to restore the old building on the hill.

The work of restoration has been accomplished by the Natchez Garden Club. Every old line has been carefully retained. Concrete floors of the kitchen and Tap Room, plastered walls, cypress grill work, solid doors, and roof are exact replicas of the originals. The old retaining walls and moats of brick have been replaced as originally at great cost. Today Ellicott Hill is shining in the full resplendency of its original glory. It is the present home of the Natchez Garden Club.

FIREPLACE IN OLD TAVERN ROOM AT CONNELLY’S TAVERN

Elmscourt

A short drive from Natchez, over a modern highway which was originally an Indian trail, through iron gates into a virgin forest, brings one a first glimpse of Elmscourt.

This mansion was erected about the year 1810 by Louis Evans, who was the first Sheriff of Adams county. He occupied it until 1851, at which time Frank Surget bought it for his daughter Jane as a gift when she married Ayers P. Merrill. It is said that Frank Surget was one of the three multi-millionaires in the United States at that time.

Jane and her husband opened wide the doors of their palatial home. General U. S. Grant was a frequent guest of Elmscourt, and by reason of this friendly contact, Ayres Merrill was appointed Minister to Belgium when Grant became President.

Elmscourt was originally Colonial in architecture but to please his wife Mr. Merrill changed it into an Italian Renaissance villa. The exquisite lacy iron work around its long galleries was imported from Belgium.

The dainty antique furnishings in parlors, library, and dining room are in perfect harmony with this period of architecture. Many original pieces are retained. At the death of Ayres P. Merrill “Elmscourt” descended to his son, Ayres P. Merrill Jr., and was sold by him to James Surget, who gave it to his daughter, Carlotta, on the occasion of her marriage to David McKittrick. Thus Elmscourt was again the property of a Surget.

The McKittrick family have lived in Elmscourt many years. They have added to the valuable collection of antique furnishings, Mrs. McKittrick bringing in superb pieces from Surget heirlooms.

An outstanding piece of Elmscourt’s furnishing is a serving table, made for the Duke of Devonshire and bearing his coat-of-arms. It was a gift to Mrs. McKittrick.

In the dining room still swings the old hand-carved punka of colonial days. At every meal, a servant stands at the end of the long dining room and by rope-and-arm-power keeps the great fan (punka) gently stirring, or creating, refreshing breezes for the comfort of the diners.

The lighting of Elmscourt is the early designed candle arrangement. Over doorways, in chandeliers, sconces, and wall brackets hundreds of candles cast their welcoming, soft glow, and add undying romance to the family portrait gallery and rich rosewood furniture.

Each Spring season when tourists wend their way to Natchez for its Spring festivities, the McKittricks of Elmscourt give their famous “Ball of a Thousand Candles”. Lords and Ladies, the elite of Natchez, in costume of days of long ago, greet their guests, and Elmscourt becomes today what it has been in the past, an alluring setting for colorful gatherings of notables.

The Table is a Present From The Duke of Devonshire.

THE HALL OF GLENFIELD

Glenfield

Turn to the right on the first gravel road leading from Canal street and within a stone’s throw of the paved highway nestles a quaint old brick cottage surrounded by giant oaks and cedars. It is “Glenfield”, the home of Mrs. Lee Field and her family.

Glenfield was built in 1812 by Charles B. Green. It is of Gothic design and is constructed of red brick and hand-hewn timbers. Like many of the old homes, “Glenfield” demonstrates two distinct types of architecture. One part is low ceilinged with brick floors, while another part has high ceilings, broad board floors, and ornate windows with heavy hand-made blinds.

Glenfield contains many rare pieces of antique furniture. A most interesting piece is an old spinning wheel, a family heirloom. It is made of hickory and is brown with age. Charred spots bear silent evidence to the old wheel’s narrow escape from destruction when Indians set fire to the covered wagon bearing it while its pioneer owner was bringing his family and household goods to this section. Everything was destroyed except a few choice pieces. As one turns the wheel today it seems to hum a chant of toil, trials and tribulations.

Glenfield was originally “Glencannon”, named for its former owner, William Cannon. The property is part of an original Spanish grant to John Gerault under Don Manuel Gayoso de Lemos, who was then governor of the Natchez Territory.

During the War Between the States “Glenfield” was a scene of battle, and bullet holes made in that conflict can be seen today in vivid contrast to the peace which now pervades the restful old home amid vine-covered bayous and hills.

Glenwood

Conditions at Glenwood are not conducive to pride in the hearts of Natchez people, and yet it is doubtful if any tourist leaves Natchez without hearing, in some way, about this dilapidated old place. As all things are good or bad by comparison, it may not be amiss when depicting the glory of Natchez to glimpse the other side.

A Northern tourist upon seeing Glenwood (known today as “Goat Castle”) said, “Well, I don’t know whether to cry or swear.”

Glenwood is the home of Richard Dana, a man of aristocratic breeding and birth, and of his guardian, Miss Martha Dockery, a stalwart, dark-eyed woman who has been for many years in charge of Mr. Dana and the house.

“Dick” Dana, as he is called, and Miss Dockery are probably in their late sixties.

Dick is the son of the late Charles B. Dana, an Episcopal clergyman, and Elvira R. Dana. The Rev. Dr. Dana was from Massachusetts.

Richard was given a splendid education. He was a pianist of exceptional ability. As years passed he spent much of his fortune, living a great part of the time in the East. When he returned to Glenwood, he seemed to live the life of a hermit, living alone with his piano and his music. Gradually gray locks reached his shoulders, and long whiskers covered his face.

County officials decided it would be best to appoint a guardian for him and Miss Dockery was named. The Dana and Dockery families had been friends for generations. Miss Dockery, who was alone and growing old, was glad to accept the charge of her old friend.

A few years ago there was a murder in the neighborhood. There had been some trouble between the murdered woman and the Dockery-Dana people because of trespassing goats. The two recluses were accused of the murder. They were taken into court, held in prison, stood trial, and finally were declared “not guilty”. Dana proved that at the time of the murder he was playing the piano and was not near the scene of the crime.

During the period of their incarceration, vandals ransacked “Goat Castle” and carried away many valuable relics. A guard was finally placed over the place to prevent souvenir hunters from taking the remainder of the valuable pieces. Public sympathy was aroused, and for a short time Dana and Miss Dockery were lionized. They seemed to take a new lease on life. They improved in personal appearance. They often came to town, but conditions in “Goat Castle” changed little.

Goats roam the place in undisturbed joy. Chickens roost on the foot of the great mahogany bed while Dick plays his old piano for curious tourists who pay twenty-five cents to see the old aristocrat, and Miss Dockery tells stories of the former wealth and prestige of her friend, who desired to withdraw from the world.

Glenwood is falling. Neglect and age are causing decay. The stables and outhouses are piles of mortar and decayed timbers, though the grounds are still beautiful with majestic moss-draped oaks and flowering magnolias.

GLENWOOD (known today as “Goat Castle”)

Gloucester

A mile drive from the city limits of Natchez, along a roadway where moss-draped boughs overlap into a verdant shelter, brings one in view of a stately red brick mansion. It is Gloucester. Still half concealed by giant oaks and tropical growth, it seems a great ruby in a gray-gold setting.

Gloucester is surrounded by 250 acres of farm land and virgin timber. It was built about 1800, and is of solid brick construction. Huge Corinthian columns support spacious galleries across the broad front. The windows are iron barred and shuttered.

This mansion is of historic interest. It was the home of Governor Winthrop Sargent, who was the first Governor of Mississippi Territory.

Front twin doorways are an unusual feature. Inside these doors are the heavy wooden bars, the original fastenings against unfriendly Indian tribes and traveling bandits, who were not infrequent during the early days of life at Gloucester.

The twin doors open into a wide hallway which contains a graceful curving stairway leading to hall and bedrooms above.

Gloucester has a splendid library of rare first editions and valuable old books. The drawing room contains Colonial furniture and paintings by masters.

Upon the death of Governor Sargent, Gloucester became the property of his wife, who, in turn, willed it to her son, George Washington Sargent.

During the occupation of Natchez by Federal troops, the young Sargent was called to the doorway of Gloucester, and shot by two soldiers to whom he had given greeting. Stains of the life-blood of this George Washington Sargent are still visible on the doorway of Gloucester. The murdered boy was buried beside his father in the family burial ground across the road from the home.

GRAND HALLWAY OF GLOUCESTER

In the Negro quarters there are weird tales of ghosts wandering over the premises. “Two tall ghosts, in uniform, carrying guns, come on dark rainy nights when the owls hoot in the oaks above the graves.”

Records show that in 1877 Gloucester was sold to James Surget, who was one of Natchez’ earliest and most affluent citizens. This home was continuously owned by the Surget family for sixty years, until the recent death of Mrs. Katherine Boyd Surget, when the property was bequeathed to its present owner, Lenox Stanton.

Mr. and Mrs. Stanton hold dear every Gloucester tradition and take pride in maintaining the home and grounds in their original state of perfection.

Hawthorne

On the famous Natchez Trace Highway, within calling distance of the Lower Woodville road, through a narrow gateway flanked by giant oaks, is a quaint little cottage, “Hawthorne”.

It is the old Southern Planter type home, a story-and-a-half.

A beautiful double front door with panels of early period thin glass and an exquisitely wrought fanlight above give an atmosphere of friendliness to the entrance.

Architects interested in the unusual find charm in the hand-hewn stairway which rises from the broad back hall to the rooms above.