Transcriber's Note
This etext differs from the original as follows. A few minor inconsistencies of punctuation and capitalization have been corrected, as well as several definite typographical errors. A corrected error is indicated by a dotted underline: Cheddar. Hover the mouse over it to see the original spelling. Besides that the corrections mentioned in errata at the end have also been made here. Because the author favored what are now seen as antiquated and eccentric spellings, many other questionable words have been left unchanged. Examples of these are goal for gaol, grove(d) for groove(d), encumberance, bason, chesnut, brocoli, transome.
THE CASKETS.
GUERNSEY
PICTORIAL DIRECTORY
AND
STRANGER'S GUIDE.
EMBELLISHED WITH NUMEROUS WOOD-CUTS.
BY
THOMAS BELLAMY.
Ivy-Gate.
GUERNSEY:
H. BROUARD, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET.
1843.
Entered at Stationers' Hall.
PRINTED BY T. J. MAUGER.
CONSTITUTION-STEPS.
PREFACE.
The Guides hitherto tendered the public, having in some measure fallen short of furnishing the Stranger with a just notion of the island and its interior beauty, from want of illustration and leisure for natural observation; the Author of the following desultory pages, flatters himself by simplicity of arrangement, utility of matter, and a few tail-pieces strongly illustrative of native scenery, to introduce a bearing towards the same: and here it is but just to remark that his daily memoranda during his temporary sojourn has been the chief source of his information, which, if deemed of sufficient importance to attract the attention of strangers, he solicits for it that candour, which he has some right to claim when he labours for the welfare of others, and is anxious only for the information of the visitor. It now only remains to render a fit apology for the inaccuracy of some of the wood-cuts, and the disproportion of others; which if duly considered, in connexion with the work, as being executed by one hand, together with the views, within the short space of five months, perhaps will be sufficient. However, the Author takes this opportunity of mentioning, that should he be so far encouraged as to issue a second edition, he trusts his friends and others will favor him with their drawings, especially upon such things appertaining unto the antiquity, architecture, botany and natural history of the island. Hitherto, at the suggestion of others, he laments having borrowed many of his views from by-gone works, which on being compared with the original of the day, have fallen considerably short of truth, especially as regards the improved character of sylvan and other extensive ornamental innovation; and, in this respect, he alludes chiefly to the country churches, which though in all their architectural portions are confessedly correct, nevertheless in the back scenery are somewhat defective. He likewise acknowledges with much pleasure that he is indebted for three of the engravings to two gentlemen, whose native talents are an ornament to the island; he alludes to Mr F. C. Lukis, and Mr Charles Mac Culloch; also for some excellent information from Col. Lane, Mr John Allaire, jun., and several others.
To conclude, the stranger is begged to understand, that as he may occasionally fall in with the word "Baillif," it is used in direct contradistinction to the English word "Bailiff," which if properly rendered signifies a menial or subordinate officer, whereas "Baillif" of Guernsey carries the important meaning of chief magistrate or judge.
Guernsey, August 7, 1843.
GUERNSEY
Is situate in the great gulf or bay of St Michael, in the English Channel, 7 to 8 leagues West of the Norman coast, but subject to the British Crown, and frequently treated of in topographical works, under article Southamptonshire. It lieth between 49d. 24m. and 49d. 33m. North lat., and 2d. 32m. and 2d. 48m. West longitude. It is distant about 108 miles South-West of Southampton; 99 miles South-West of Portsmouth; 90 miles South-East from Plymouth, and 61 miles South of Portland. In relation to others of the Channel Islands, it is 7 leagues North of Jersey; 5 leagues South-West of Alderney; and 2 leagues West of Serk. The two last are dependencies of Guernsey, as are also Herm and Jethou, which serve to shelter the roadstead, that otherwise would be of no importance. In approach, the shores of Guernsey do not present the same attractions as those of Jersey, being altogether more sterile, and of a less fertile aspect. The form of the island is triangular, and its whole circumference upwards of thirty miles, and is deeply indented with commodious bays and harbours. Its length from North-East to South-West is twelve miles; its breadth from North to South about nine, and contains twenty-four square miles, or fifteen thousand three hundred and sixty acres, and about four thousand and seventy houses, with a fluctuating population of from 25,000 to 30,000 inhabitants.
The face of the country is varied with gentle risings and hills, being watered with springs, ponds, and fine clear gravelly brooks, many of which are constantly employed in turning over-shot mill-wheels. On the North or vale side, the coast, with the exception of a few cairns and risings, is generally low and flat, making a gradual elevation from a level very little above high-water mark, to the South side, which is beautifully intersected by deep ravines and craggy hills, for the most part covered with wild herbage, on the whole forming a true miniature representation of Welch scenery, the crags rising precipitately to the height of 280 feet above the level of the sea.
For considerable distances off the land, the island is circumgirt with sharp sunken rocks, which together with the line of breast-works, batteries, and a regular and efficiently supplied fort and citadel, renders it upon the whole almost impregnable.
A View of rough Sea, near Richmond.
Formerly, in the Valle, there was a noble sheet of water, extending for upwards of two miles in length and one in breadth, which of late years, by great labour and expence has been drained off. At present, it is an inland marsh, but a vestige of the pool may still be seen throughout the winter months, as inundating a space of about three acres a little to the West of Noirmont, and which may be plainly seen from Grandes Roques and the road leading thereto.
Grande Mare.
The inhabitants have still a few small and convenient fish-ponds, and one the property of Mr Arnold, near the Valle church, when full, is upwards of three acres, has pleasure boats on it, and abounds in excellent fish, such as tench, mullet and eels; which latter, properly speaking, are the only kind that inhabit the rivulets and fresh water pools of the island.
Mr Arnold's House and Pool.
The houses lie scattered throughout the island; mansions, farm-houses, and even cottages being excellently built; and if not pleasantly surrounded with orchards, trees and shrubs, at least with neat little gardens, flowers-beds and bowers. Most of the mansions have green-houses, for a late paper says, "in our country rambles we took many a peep into the kitchen-gardens and green-houses, and were highly gratified in observing the paths syringed and fresh, and sickly plants watered at the roots with liquid manure: and were careful to note in thinning them they went over twice instead of all at once; which we understood to be much better, as they avoided wounding them. They examined newly budded stocks, which were secured by tying to the tree, and encouraged by removing suckers and buds beneath. They disbudded wall-trees, and nailed in the young shoots, as they became sufficiently advanced; moved earth frequently with the spade under the walls, and slipped off all infected shoots," &c.
Indeed, whatsoever direction one takes from St Peter-Port, the capital and only town in the island, he is sure to fall in with indications of wealth, refinement and good taste; and if he cannot exactly decide on the splendour of architectural finish, he will at least discern something beyond the usual order, that evidently mark competence and ease. This unique appearance is not only confined to the houses, for with scarcely an exception every detached house has some elegant ground tastefully arranged into a lawn replete with beautiful and rare shrubs, which, for the most part, are kept in tolerable condition, and their foliage allowed to droop gracefully on either side of a small winding carriage-road. In this respect, perhaps the Grange, the Rohais, and the St Andrew's roads may appear most conspicuous, and even the cottages, in these, and many other parts of the suburbs, assume a very different aspect to what they usually do in England and the sister-isle; for here, even in the less respectable parts of the town, small cottages, having gardens, afford generally a good display of jonquils, pansies, ranunculuses, polyanthus, hyacinths, daisies, anemones, &c., which in some front gardens are excellently arranged, whereas in others, from lack of room, are entirely omitted, but have in their place a mossy lawn and a few exotic shrubs, elegantly arranged, which considerably heightens their respectability and effect.
Mont Durant House. The residence of the wealthy Mr John Allaire, proprietor of the island of Jethou, and other considerable estates in Guernsey.
On the opposite side of the road, is Summerland, the property of Tupper Carey, Esq., remarkable for its castellated style of building, some gay green views, and a variety of elegant adjoining grounds.
Summerland.
On the Rohais road may be seen Hirzelbourne, a kind of Indian villa, the property of Captain De Lisle, which unfortunately is nearly concealed from public view by a lofty wall.
Hirzelbourne.
A little below is Frogmore, the residence of Dr Carey, remarkable for its ponderous veranda, whimsically constructed of rustic elm-stumps. The adjoining grounds are neat, and the gardens may be said to be tastefully arranged.
Frogmore.
At Petite-Marche, is the mansion of Sir Thomas Saumarez, heavily shrouded in front by dense shrubberies, and open in the back to sloping meads, well studded with trees. From the lawn there is also a fine view of the isles of Serk, Herm, and Jethou.
Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.
The view of the town from this spot, is very excellent, and from a drawing as given in Jacob's Annals, would appear to be much admired.
View taken from the back of Sir Thomas Saumarez's House.
Opposite is Belmont, the residence of Mr William Brock, so much admired for its foliage and timber, being circumgirt on all sides with trees of no ordinary size, that would in fact be no small appendage to a nobleman's domain. It is to be lamented that many of the trees are now being cut down.
Mr Brock's house.
Adjoining l'Hyvreuse, or New Ground, is Castle Carey, which has so truly a picturesque effect from the sea and Castle Cornet. (Vide Trees, Directory.)
Castle Carey.
As we diverge from the town, villas become larger until they in almost every respect assume the air and character of noblemen's seats, and perhaps as such Havilland Hall would fall in identity with those of England, as it is a noble quadangular building, supported in front by four lofty columns, and is the present residence of the Governor, General Napier. Connected with the building are spacious grounds and plantations which consist of beautiful meadows through which babbles a rippling brook. At the foot of this splendid mansion, or rather on the other side of the valley, is the family farm and dairy which is got up much after the English style, the whole being the properly of Col. De Havilland, a native of the Island.
Havilland Hall.
The scenery in Guernsey, generally speaking, is not much enriched with sylvan beauty, and perhaps the above mansion, together with St George, and Woodlands are the most conspicuous. Although a dense wood or coppice is hardly known here, nevertheless, there is a good sprinkling of elm and other timber; the former of which is of a peculiar growth and quality, being in its structure not much unlike the poplar. The fields are commonly divided by hedge rows of oak, elm and ash, but in the lowland districts of the Valle with turf banks, surmounted with furze, which grows rapidly for three years, when it is cut for fuel. Should the ground be too wet and swampy for the growth of furze, stone fences are adopted in its stead.
It has been said the social interchanges of life have been much embarrassed among those who dwell in the capital by too nice an attention to the different classes or gradations of rank, in preference to a selection of company founded on the claims of merit and good fellowship; and that the same has been deemed ridiculous and troublesome, insomuch that it even descends to the retail traders of so small an Island possessing no native nobility. The answer to this is quickly rebutted when we deliberately dwell on the proper and just position of a society within a small circumference, who have a moral as well as judicial example to bestrew, lest by too close a connection the stream be defiled, and that excellent justice for which Guernsey has been so long famous, become corrupt and contaminated. Perhaps speaking with evenness and temperament, no spot in the world for upwards of half a century has put forth such pure and undefiled justice as Guernsey, for the rigorous exaction of which the main bulk of the present population feel themselves indebted to their late venerable and respected bailiff.[A]
[A] Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., died Sept. 24, 1842.
It has also been stated that mediocrity, rather bordering on poverty prevail throughout the country, and a rigid economy consequently practised. An assertion of this kind may do well abroad, and private pique may go much towards its aggrandizement; but the stranger who by integrity has upheld himself amongst us, would for the love of candour be the first to give a retrograde evidence, and to establish a cause, which for the sake of truth we fain would plead. It has been acknowledged by those who have left us, the community of Guernsey is the happiest they have ever fell in with, and one in particular says: "The pictures of want, filth, and crime, which so frequently shock the eye of humanity in our own country, and which appear to an extraordinary extent in Ireland, and in the county of Dorset, are not to be met with in Guernsey; but in their stead are to be seen happy signs of abundance, comfort and contentment. Contrary to Dorset and Somerset the poor man has his neat little house, is surrounded by his cheerful family, and is under no apprehension that he shall not be able, with moderate labour, to provide a full meal and a comfortable lodging, for all who are dependent on him. What are the causes of this superior state of things in Guernsey? Why is it, that within so short a distance of the above places where the pining labourer is but half fed and half clad, the man of Guernsey should have a well stored board and abundance of clothing? The climate is not peculiar; the land is not remarkably fertile; yea, many parts of England are quite equal to Guernsey in both these particulars. How then is it that Guernsey should be so much a-head in the career of happiness? Guernsey has superior laws—superior institutions, and the state of things in Guernsey is one among the thousand proofs that have been given, that the prosperity and happiness of a people are much more dependent on its laws, institutions, and the manner which its government is carried on, than on climate and fertility of soil. I have twice visited the Island of Guernsey under circumstances favourable for becoming acquainted with its condition: and in the hopes of directing general attention to a model from which even a nation might derive advantage."
One of the most striking changes which the visitor, whether from England or France, meets with on his landing in Guernsey, is the entire absence of beggars; which are so truly abundant in England, especially in the pauper districts of Dorset and Ireland. That miserable compound of imposture and real distress—the wandering mendicant—is there unknown. A tradesman who has been established at St Peter-Port for upwards of thirty years, assured me that during the whole period of his residence in the Island he has never once seen a beggar. For myself I neither saw nor heard of one; and I was satisfied, from all I learnt, that a beggar in Guernsey is a being of a past age—a creation of history—a fit subject for the speculation of the antiquary—but too completely covered with the dust of ancient times, for those of the present day to examine. Not only is the island free from beggars, but it is free also from those debasing but unfortunate creatures whom the twilight of evening brings forth from their hiding places, like swarms of moths, to join the giddy dance round the flame that is soon to destroy them. Prostitution proceeds from the same sources as mendicity—want and ignorance; and where the latter is not found, the former will rarely be met with. Be that as it may, however, the fact is, that the streets and roads of Guernsey are not disgraced by the appearance either of the prostitute or the beggar.
St Peter-Port, the capital, is situate on the profile of a hill about the middle of the East coast, and extends for a considerable distance, the streets in the old town being narrow, whilst those of the upper or new one are very superior, but having the appearance of being built in valleys. On being slightly acquainted with the town, the stranger's uppermost remark is always the number of steps, when he is apt to exclaim: "There is no end to them!" The opening of a new street, the erection of a market-house, and the purchase of the adjacent land cost the States £80,000, the profits of which enabled them to erect a fish-market on a magnificent scale. The public buildings around are extensive and handsome, and consist chiefly of the Mechanics' Library, a semi-arcade of shops, and the Assembly Rooms opposite, underneath which is the Poultry Market.
Assembly Rooms and Market-Place.
Besides this the town boasts of a spacious Court of Justice, a Prison, Hospital, Public Libraries, Theatre, Billiard Rooms, Reading Rooms, &c.
The Harbour is the most inferior appendage to the town, being only surrounded by a pier of loose stones, not having mortar or anything withal to bind them together, and only extending Northward 460 feet by 757 Southwards. Plans upon plans have from time to time been laid down for a new one, but hitherto the States have not summed up resolution enough to accede to them. One would suppose it had never been touched since king James granted the Petite Coutume, which was a levy on the imported commodities and native manufacture of the island, for the support of the same.
The entrance of the pier is defended by Castle Cornet, a fortress built on a rock, well defended by batteries on all sides, and is about a quarter of a mile from the pier head. It commands a fine view of the town, harbour, heights, and adjacent isles, and may be esteemed an interesting object from the land. It has a signal post which announces every vessel sailing for or passing the island; as also a flag-staff on which is hoisted the British flag in fine weather and on extraordinary occasions. It is supposed to have taken its name from the distinguished family of Cornet, who are mentioned as being present at the dedication of the Town Church. The Castle contains artillery and infantry barracks, and several ammunition stores sufficient to admit of about three hundred barrels of gunpowder, and a proportionable supply of shot.
Castle Cornet.
DIRECTORY.
Academies.—
Notwithstanding there is a spacious College which embraces all the useful branches of a classical and commercial education, there are a variety of schools and seminaries, which for the most part are conveniently situated. They are moderate in their terms, and are chiefly on the day-boarding system. The principal are Messrs Hayes and Piercy, &c., and for Ladies, Misses Walsh, Mills, and Cross. Besides these, there are Sunday Schools and others, such as the Church of England, two; Wesleyan, two; Independent, two; New Connection, two; Bryanites, Primitive Methodists, Baptist, and National Infant Schools, whose united scholars amount to 2,270.
Agreements and Rents.—
On renting a house a simple agreement signed by the two parties is sufficient, and if any misunderstanding should hereafter occur, the Court always take into consideration the position of the stranger, and adjust it in a lenient and amicable way. An indenture or agreement drawn by a professional man, is far less expensive than in England; but there is hardly any occasion for either. In these affairs no stamps or any other kind of taxed papers are used. Respectable and convenient town houses let from £20 to £40 per annum, and in the country, with the advantage of a large garden or orchard, from £10 to £20 per annum.
Andrew's Church, St.—
Has a low embattled tower, and a short square spire at the end of the nave, with a South aisle and chancel. Most of the windows are modernized, and two of them were evidently square-headed with trefoils rudely sculptured out of the granite, much after the style of the Forest Church. As the windows are small, perhaps to introduce more light the mullions have been removed. The walls are supported by heavy buttresses, and the whole Church is vaulted. At the back of the pulpit seat is a panel which represents St George and the dragon, which in all probability is Guernsey manufacture, and identities the perfection to which sculpture had attained in days of yore. Unfortunately the pulpit is painted mahogany colour, which does away with the carving of the original oak that ought to be regarded with veneration, as it is the only remaining pulpit of antiquity in the Island.
St Andrew's Church.
Antiquities.—
Vide "The Stranger's Guide."
Banks and Bankers.—
There are three Banks; the States' Bank, the Guernsey Banking Company, 29, High-street, and the Guernsey Commercial Banking Company, 22, High-street. The chief business of these companies is to draw and cash bills on London and Paris, to discount local promissory notes, and to advance money. Their hours of business are from ten o'clock in the morning until three in the afternoon.
Taking into consideration the smallness of the Island, these Banks pretty well inundate the public with paper, nevertheless their security perhaps, is rendered greater than any thing of the kind in England, and may be deemed one of the causes of our prosperity. The paper money issued by the States of the Island is something after the following manner: if the roads for instance are out of repair, or that it is absolutely necessary to build a new pier, then immediately the States, after a close conference, issue on their security, one pound notes, which as the work proceeds are sent out. On the public work yielding an income after its completion, the notes are gradually brought in again, and new undertakings commenced if necessary. By means of this "truly healthy" currency, undertakings of considerable magnitude are occasionally executed. Moreover, the purposes for which the notes are issued are of advantage to every man in the Island; so that every one looks upon them as coming from the Bank to which he is a partner. Formerly the notes were not payable on demand; and the States had not so much as an office for their presentation: nevertheless the notes were never refused, as the people found by experience that their representatives, the States, did not issue the notes in greater abundance than the demand for them justified.
The Savings Bank is under the direction of a committee of the principal people of the Island, most of them members of the States, and is on a safe foundation, the whole capital being vested in the public funds. When the name and occupation of a depositor is entered, he receives 3 per cent for his money.
Barracks.—
Vacant Barracks capable of admitting upwards of 5,000 troops, are erected in various parts of the Island. Their repairs are kept up by occasional grants from the Home Government, and a proper officer is appointed for their annual over-hauling.
Bats—
Are by no means numerous, or of such size, colour and quantity as those of Jersey. They inhabit the vale districts rather than the upland ones.
Beggars—
Are not known here, and should there be an importation, the Constables take it upon themselves to manage their departure by encumbering the Captain who brought them with the expense of their return. An affair of this kind cost our late venerable Baillif much trouble in rebutting versus the corporation of Southampton, who at several times either sent or permitted their landing.
Birds—
That are constantly with us are: the red legged crow, the common crow, sparrow,[A] tit-mouse, long tailed do., common wren, golden crested do., lark, sky do., magpie, sparrow-hawk, blackbird, and thrush. Those which occasionally visit us or remain only throughout the winter season are: the ring dotterel, skitty, quail,[B] plover, starling, red-wing, fieldfare, curlew, tern, snipe, woodcock,[C] &c. The swallow and swift generally leaves us about the middle of October and return in the spring. Perhaps no place of equal extent can boast of having such a variety of birds, for besides the above we have the occasional visit of the hoopoe, ring-ouzel, mountain-finch, hooded crow, golden oriole, sanderling, godwit, lapwing, grey plover, Northern diver, wild goose, brent do., wild duck, together with a few others of the hawk tribe. The heron may be said to be rather peculiar to the small adjacent Island of Herm; and those beautiful birds, the bittern and egret, were both shot by a person in the fens, technically called by sportsmen the "Pontine Marshes."
[A] Sparrows are exceedingly numerous and work great ravages in corn and other grain fields, wherefore the States for years past, have granted an annual sum of £70 or so much per head for their destruction. At a meeting of the States for 1830, an Act was passed by way of awarding a premium for the further destruction of sparrows, wherein it was agreed, for that year only, to give four doubles for every sparrows head, and one for each egg.
[B] According to a memorandum dated Nov. 19, 1841, the author has:—"Shot a quail in a sand field behind Mr De Lisle's house, Grande Rocque, which on opening had its crop full of cress seed, with a few berries of the common nightshade. From this it would seem they are fond of hot seeds and poisonous berries. Also killed three terns at one shot on my passage to Herm in a boat, which are rare kind of birds."
[C] In a memorandum dated the 10th Nov., 1842, I find my old cat "Pinkey" caught a fine woodcock down near a little straw built duckery on the margin of a brook over-run with trees, osiers, and willows. This to the sportsman may appear remarkably strange, and tend to convince him that woodcocks are not over and above scarce here.
Boarding Houses and Lodgings.—
Lodgings may be obtained in various parts of the town from 8s. to 15s. per week, and in the most enviable situations they hardly ever exceed 1l. Country lodgings adequate to the former may be obtained at about 8s. to 12s. per week, in which there is the excellent advantage of being able to obtain fresh cream and butter. Lewis's Boarding House, Glatney, and Shore's Commercial one, High-street, with one or two others, are the principal. Terms from 15s. to 2l. per week, which of course will be comprehended according to the style of accommodation, as the cheapest spot in the world may be abused by an unnecessary suit of apartments and superfluous living.
Lewis's Boarding House is pleasantly situated, fronting the sea, and commands an extensive prospect of the adjacent Isles and France, as also all vessels in and out of the harbour. It is a commodious building, having a numerous suit of rooms, which are airy and spacious, and might accommodate some fifteen or twenty families with ease and comfort. On the top is a kind of rotunda, which is a cool retreat in the heat of summer, as there is always a breeze from the channel; here the visitor, with a telescope, if the weather is clear, can plainly distinguish the houses of France and Jersey. At the back of the house are excellent gardens abounding with fruit and flowers.
Lewis's Boarding House.
Boatmen.—
By late regulations respecting these, every boatman is bound to have the number of his boat painted outside on each bow, and inside on the stern; he is also bound to give the Harbour-Master a correct list of his boat's crew, under a penalty of 14 livres tournois. Passengers are limited to
| 6 | for a Boat from 14 to 18 feet long. |
| 8 | for a Boat from 18 to 22 feet long. |
| 10 | for a Boat from 22 to 26 feet long. |
| 12 | for a Boat from 26 feet and upwards. |
No boat under fourteen feet in length is allowed to take passengers from the pier to the roads, or from the roads to the pier; under a penalty of 14 livres tournois for each passenger.
Each division is to perform the duty turn by turn weekly; and none but the boats of the division on duty are authorized to land passengers from the steamers, under a penalty of 3 livres tournois.
The boatmen are bound to put on shore, in a place of safety, the luggage and effects of the passengers they land, that their owners, or porters whom they have engaged, may take them away, under a penalty of 10 livres tournois.
During the landing of passengers and their effects, porters or any one else, are forbidden to place themselves at the top of the steps where the said landing takes place, or to go down the same, until the passengers with their effects have left them; under a penalty of 10 livres tournois.
Boats belonging to the division not on duty, may take passengers from the pier, or elsewhere, to put them on ship board; but they are not in any way to incommode the landing of those passengers arriving, who are to have the preference either of descending from the vessel into the boats, or of being taken ashore. Boatmen, porters, and all others, are bound to make room for those who land, under a penalty of 14 livres tournois.
Fares:—Conveyance of passengers from the pier or from the rocks, St Julien, to the roads, or from the roads to the said pier or rocks, tenpence each passenger, ordinary luggage included. Conveyance within the pier or at the pier heads, or from the vessel ashore, five pence each passenger; the whole under a penalty of 14 livres tournois.
Bread.—
Is nearly the same price as in England, and by some is considered of a better quality.
Butter.—
Together with meat are the only dear articles of consumption in the Island, yet when we take into consideration, the Guernsey lb. being 2 oz. more than that of England, the difference is not so great. Butter throughout the summer is usually 1s. to 1s. 1d. per lb., in winter 1s. 6d. to 2s.
Carts.—
Apparently are extremely awkward and inconvenient, nevertheless from their structure are well calculated for their intended purposes, which is for hay, vraic and other such like litter. Waggons are never used by the farmers, and but very seldom by the town's people.
Castles.—
At present there are the Valle, Castle Cornet, and Ivy Castle in the marshes, which latter appears to have been a Norman structure, and is now laid out into a kind of garden belonging to the Governor, which is densely surrounded with trees. The Valle Castle or St Sampson's, is situated on a craggy eminence overlooking the sea. It has still its ramparts mounted with cannon, and has capacious barracks for troops, which are in a tolerable state of repair. The Castle du Grand Geoffrey stood in the parish of St Mary de Castro, but there are no remains of it now existing.
Ivy Castle.
Câtel Church.—
Consists of a chancel, nave, South aisle and North transept, is dedicated to Notre Dame de la Delivrance, and was consecrated in the year 1203. It has a square tower pinnacled at each angle, surmounted by a fine octagonal spire, which together with the whole building has undergone many alterations during the last century. On one of the chancel walls antique specimens of fresco paintings may be seen, and in a window of the North transept, tracery coarsely wrought out of the stone forming the lintel. The North wall of the chancel and transept of this Church, are supposed to be the remaining portions of old walls, that formed a fort called "Castel du Grand Sarazin," whence it is believed the Church took its name. The place where the Castle standard was stuck is still to be seen, being a projecting hollow stone about the middle of the chancel and transept, where also other evidences may be traced. In the Church-yard is interred the late Right Honourable Lord De Saumarez.
Câtel Church.
Cemeteries.—
The public burial ground is laid out with much good taste and judgement, and was purchased by the parish some few years since. The whole is enclosed by a solid handsome wall of blue granite, adorned with drooping shrubs. Some of the tombs are highly finished, and the mausoleum of Isaac Carey, Esquire, of Hauteville, constructed by his late heirs, is a splendid piece of work, and is carried to a considerable depth. To the left, or between this and the College, is the "Stranger's Burial Ground," through which runs a new road walled on either side. At the other end of the town and in a solitary place is a small walled enclosure or burial ground, belonging to the Society of the Foxonian Quakers.
Carey's Mausoleum.
Chapels.—
May be said to be numerous both in town and country, and almost every religion may be accommodated. In the country the chief Dissenting chapels are: the Calvinists, Baptists, Methodists and New Connexion.—Vide Religions.
Cheese.—
English cheese is not over abundant, as the expences in obtaining it are too great to satisfy that character of economy which the English residents display; consequently cheese, such as Cheddar, Bridgewater, and the like, fetch from 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. per lb. The Dutch ball are the ones commonly in demand, and being of a variety of qualities meet with a ready sale at from 4d. to 8d. per lb., which latter price will ensure those of the best quality.
Climate.—
Is considered by Doctor Hoskins, who is a native surgeon of considerable experience, to be a close representation of the West of England or the Isle of Wight, but entirely exempt from the "auguish disposition" of Hastings. The thermometer seldom rises above 80 degrees of Fahrenheit, rarely as low as 37 deg. and never remains long stationary at the freezing point.
Clothes.—
All cloth coming from England, and there being no draw back, the taylor's bill may be considered somewhat a shade higher. In mending and repairing, taylor's work is done at a much more reasonable price than in England. Articles of French manufacture can be obtained at their usual moderate prices, &c.
Coals.—
Are obtained at twenty-one shillings per ton, but the usual way of purchasing them is by the quarter, which is a much less quantity, thereby rendering it more convenient for families removing. By the quarter they are 7s. 6d. in the winter, but less in the summer, as the freight is not so expensive. A quarter is ten English bushels.
College, the.—
In its internal structure is well adapted for scholastic duty and exercise, but the space much more ample than the present insular education can warrant. Its architecture, though mixed is regular, and were it not for an air of lightness in the material, would carry with it the beauty of a monastic finish—a finish so truly regarded by all genuine taste. Perhaps with equal fallacy a few minor points of the exterior may be decided on in the same way; however the observer will discern for himself.
The College.
The education of the establishment includes Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Divinity, History, Geography, French and English Literature, Mathematics and Arithmetic. Instruction in these branches of education is secured by the College fee of 12l. per annum. Should any other studies be needed there are extra masters without and within the College that superintend the following acquirements:—Drawing, Surveying, the Spanish, Italian and German languages, Music, Fencing and Drilling. There are two public examinations at Midsummer, conducted by two Masters of Arts of the University of Oxford, selected for that purpose by the heads of Exeter, Jesus, and Pembroke Colleges.
Board and tuition with the Principal of the College is 60l. per annum, including the 12l. of College dues; with the Vice-Principal 50l.; and with the mathematical master 60l.
A drawing of the ancient gate-way is still preserved, of which a view is here engraved.
Ancient College Gate-way.
Consuls.—
For the protection of trade, these have been established by the following powers: France, Spain, Portugal, Naples, Sicily, Belgium, Holland, Prussia, Russia, Denmark and Sweden.
Court, Royal.—
The present building where the Royal Court holds its sittings was erected in the year 1799, on an elevated spot at the upper end of Smith-street, at a cost of about 7000l. The Greffe Office is to the right, in which are kept all registries both of public and private ordinances and private agreements. On the left is the common Court, where justice business is transacted; behind this is the room for the advocates, the witnesses and officers of the Court. Above stairs is the Grand Hall for the meetings of the States, and where law and criminal causes, not decided upon in the Court below, are heard and determined. Here are the full-length portraits of our late Governor, Sir John Doyle, Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., Baillif, Lord Seaton, a former Governor of the island, and the late Lord De Saumarez.
The Royal Court House.
Cows.—
Those commonly known by the name of "Alderney Cows" in England need but little description, save that the Channel Isles being their natural soil, they thrive well and produce almost double the quantity of butter to what they do in England[A], France, or elsewhere. Hence it often comes within the range of an observer to witness upwards of fifteen pounds of butter from a cow per week throughout the summer. Foreign cows, according to law, are not permitted in the Island, and even a farmer would not allow a Jersey one to be seen on his land. Cheese is not made in the Island, though it is said the Duke of Bedford tried the experiment by sending dairymen, who reported the milk was too rich. By the tethering system no grass is wasted, for the cow is only allowed range of from twelve to fifteen feet, and is shifted three or four times per diem.
[A] According to a memorandum dated April 4, 1829, Guernsey cows degenerate and become extremely feeble in England; that whereupon their bones protrude through the skin, and such was the case at Cheddington in Dorset, where I then resided. In another memorandum, when living at St Martin's, Jersey, I find an old woman of that parish had a remarkable fine cow that produced 18 and 19 lb. of butter per week throughout the months of May and June.
Tethered Cows.
Cyder.—
Is plentiful and in most cases particularly good, though an evil report gives it out as water dashed. The price varies according to the season; at times being as low as 14s. whilst at others 30s. per hodgs. Several hundred hogsheads are annually shipped for England.
Diseases.—
From the climate being open and healthy are few, and chiefly consist of rheumatic complaints. Should the reader be over critical on this head, he had better consult the "History of Guernsey," by Jonathan Duncan.—Vide Climate.
Doctors and Physicians.—
Considering the healthiness of the clime we are somewhat overstocked, there being no less than twenty-four practising the profession. There is no regular physician in the Island.
Donkeys.—
Are few, as they are merely employed in carrying corn to the country wind-mills, or with families rusticating in the country. A number may be generally seen browsing on Lancresse Common. They may be hired at 2s. or 2s. 6d. per day; if by the hour, 3d. is the general charge.
Doubles—
Are the current copper coin of the Island, eight of which form an eight double piece, which represent an English penny.
Eggs.—
Native eggs in summer are 6d. to 8d. per dozen, and during the winter from 1s. to 1s. 6d. French ones being imported in large quantities are from 5d. to 6d. per dozen.
Exciseable Articles.—
Groceries being exempt from all kind of duty and imposition are a luxury as well as novelty to those just arrived from a heavily taxed country; thus it is very common to hear recent visitors walking home under a burden of untaxed articles, exclaiming: "Well! we can't do this in England;—we can't get 3 lbs. of sugar for 10d.!" Tobacco is 1s. per lb., snuff 1s. to 2s. per lb. Sugars 3d. to 5d. per lb. Teas 2s. to 5s. per lb. Coffee (raw) 4d. per lb. Fried 8d. per lb. Ground do. 1s. Soap 4d. per lb. Candles (dips) 6½ d. per lb. Moulds 7d. per lb. Cocoa 1s. per lb. Best Chocolate 13d. per lb.
N.B. There being no duty on mahogany, deal, or any other kind of wood, furniture is much cheaper than in England.
Fish.—
Abundant, and considered by strangers remarkably cheap. That generally seen in the market in the greatest abundance are: turbot, brill, whiff, megrim, sole, lemonsole, plaice, dab, marysole, dorey, mullet, surmulet, mackerel, red gurnard, basse, wrasse, bream, gilt-head, herring, pilchard, horse-mackerel, gar-fish, common cod, pollock, ling, atherine, conger, ray, sand-eel, with numerous others. Lobsters, crabs, shrimps and cray-fish are equally abundant, and may be obtained at the following reasonable prices: Lobsters[A] 9d. crabs, (exceedingly large) 2d. to 8d., shrimps 3d. per pint, turbot 6d. per lb., soles 1s. per pair, dorey 1s. bream 2d., whiting (exceedingly large) 6d. The ormer, a very delicate fish, scarcely known in England, represents a veal cutlet, and is rather common with us.
[A] Lobsters would be much cheaper were they not taken in considerable quantities to Jersey, France, Portsmouth, Weymouth and Southampton; hence it has been remarked that early in the morning the market is glutted with lobsters, whereas immediately on the arrival of the steamers they are all gone.
Fish Market, the—
Is a beautiful structure and has been erected of late years. The interior is light and airy, and the slabs, which are handsomely cut and groved are of black and variegated marble, being well supplied with abundance of fresh water from pipes, which by means of cocks is brought over the slabs at a moment's notice, thereby washing them immediately. The Arcade is a spacious area, upwards of a hundred and ninety feet in length, and proportionably broad, having two lines of sittings extending the length of the building. The exterior towards the vegetable market, or facing the Assembly Rooms, is handsomely occupied in shops, the Mechanics' Library, and other offices. By an ordinance of the Royal Court every person selling fish is obliged to do it in this arcade, for the use of which they pay one penny a day. The whole arrangements, as well as variety, abundance, and excellency of fish, at once impress the stranger with high notions of the public spiritedness of the people, who have taken so much pains to provide a fit receptacle for one single article of human sustenance.
Farms—
Are hardly ever beyond fifty or sixty vergées, and in their arrangements are contrary to every thing English. The yard is simply a few out-houses, consisting of a stable, hay-loft, cart-house, and cyder-factory, which latter apparatus is a set of large groved stones set in a circle, around which passes a stone wheel guided by a wooden machine, and drawn by a horse or ox. The apples being thus mashed in the trough or grove are turned out, pressed, and racked off secundum artem. The corn is thrashed in an out-house on the ground floor, and afterwards winnowed in the air with a sheet and sieve.
Farm.
Flies.—
In entomology little can be said, unless by the most acute observer. As far as annoyance is produced, perhaps England or France would exceed us; for, in no single instance, can be traced a multitude of insects that work mischief either to cattle, trees, or any thing else, unless it is the scarcely perceptible nuisance wrought by a species of the millipedes,[A] which abound in dry lands, and occasionally disfigure the healthy appearance of potatoes, if not timely destroyed.
[A] According to a memorandum dated October 4, 1841, these insects do not injure or impair the quality of the potatoe, but only disfigure it. However voracious their attack, they cannot represent the evil of the moles in Jersey, which plough up as it were whole fields, and overthrow the year's produce.
Flowers.—
Floriculture has long been a favourite pursuit among the inhabitants, which no doubt has been the chief cause of rendering this department of gardening so famous. Although the best gardens are of no great extent, yet they often contain beautiful, rare, and valuable plants; and there are few cottages which have not a considerable space dedicated to flowers. The mildness of the climate is such, that a variety of tender plants are grown in the open air, which would hardly endure the same exposition in the warmest spots of Devonshire or Cornwall. When the temperature falls to 6 degrees below freezing point, the season is considered unusually severe; consequently, many of the Cape heaths and hardier geraniums, together with a number of Australian shrubs and plants, and even those from central America endure our ordinary winters in screened situations without the least injury whatever. Thus, the eobœa scandens, maurandia barclayana, and other creepers of a similar nature are found to spring up naturally from seed under the walls where they are planted; and even the Bath scarlet geranium has for several years been an ornament to cottage walls, to the height of ten or eleven feet. Fuchsias make such rapid progress that they finally become shrubs, when from their encumberance they are trained to poles like standard roses. Bulbs are cultivated with considerable advantage, as the frost is of such short duration, that it rarely ever freezes more than an inch or two in depth, and should a slight fall of snow happen it is their complete protection. From a garden review, given by the late Horticultural Chronicle, it appears there were orange trees laden with fruit in every respectable garden; and in that of the dowager Lady De Saumarez there was one remarkably curious, from its rind being grown out into a kind of spar. In these gardens, and also in those of Sir Thomas Saumarez and Mr Brock, of Belmont, were montanariums, sanguisorb, large tree myrtles, creeping serius (eight yards long), mimosa (tree), paradoxia, candula, clematis azuria grandiflora; and in the green-house of Mr Brock were no less than from twelve to fifteen hundred calceolaria, together with innumerable others, all teeming with health and vigour.
Fogs and Mists.—
At times rise up from the Channel, and consequently pass over the island, not unfrequently involving, throughout November, the Northern or lowland parishes in mist.
French Women.—
As the island is almost wholly supplied with provisions from France, these women may be seen located in the market in considerable numbers; and the English stranger at first sight wonders who and what they are. Sometimes they perambulate the country with baskets containing eggs, poultry, nuts, &c., and in this way things are often procured at the door exceedingly moderate. Their dress is peculiar to the provinces of France from whence they come, and as they never wear bonnets, the head-dress is most fantastically arranged. The annexed engraving represents one of their caps.
Frogs.—
Are few, and only seen in marshy wet ground. There are no toads in the island, neither will they exist here, for the experiment has been tried from Jersey, where they abound in myriads, especially in umbrageous lanes. From a memorandum dated July 4, 1834, while living in Jersey, I find they creep from their lurking holes in the banks or hedges, throughout the summer evenings, in numbers almost incredible, especially in St Martin's parish, at times oft approaching in size nearly the Surinam toad.
Frost and Snow.—
Neither are severe, and the latter seldom remains on the ground beyond three days. One may be here two or three winters without witnessing both together, and not unfrequently without the least appearance of either. Like other maritime situations, the cold seems to be mitigated by caloric imparted to the atmosphere from the surrounding ocean; and the exuberance of the various exotics which flourish unguarded at all seasons in the open air, puts forth sufficient evidence of the mildness of the climate. The double camelias bloom abundantly in November, and orange-trees endure the winter with only a slight occasional covering of matting. A correspondent of the Horticultural Chronicle observes that on riding towards St Saviour's he was much pleased to see two magnificent orange-trees hid in boxes as a shelter from the side winds, at the house of a Mr Hartley, and which then looked exceedingly handsome, as they were ornamented with some two or three dozen of fine ripe fruit.[A]
[A] In a memorandum, Saturday, Feb. 6, 1841, I find that the winter of that year was the severest we have had for many years past. It destroyed many precious plants, especially myrtles and orange-trees, indeed its ravages were so extensive as to strip down huge limbs from the most robust trees, and in such quantities in the sister-isle, that many dreaded the consequences. This frost appears to have been very remarkable, for the preceding evening was marked by a dense mist, which in contact and in co-operation with a sudden frost, glazed the trees and shrubs with masses of ice, and gave them the appearance of solid icicles, which gave rise to the following witticism: "If the whole island were not christianized, it was at least crystalized." It proved fatal to several interesting exotics, which had been the pride of many a garden. The Cape heaths and Australian shrubs were almost all destroyed. Every species of leptospermum, which had braved our winters for forty years, were killed. The general scenery at the time was so exceedingly beautiful, from the ramifications of the trees being wrought up into so many magical and fantastical shapes, that I endeavoured to make a sketch of one, but the cold was too intense to allow me to accomplish my object. The snow and frost continued to increase from Monday the 1st, and on the 3rd and 5th all creation was white.
Furniture.—
Of all kinds may be obtained on reasonable terms, as it has of late been contrived by some speculative people to enter on a business of this kind. Families, ere they determine on taking up their abode here, would do well in being accommodated with a loan of furniture. On the contrary, should they purchase new, with a view to sell it hereafter, they will have just cause to repent, as it will not realize one quarter of its original value.
Gardens.—
Are considered, by eminent horticulturists, not only numerous, but beyond every thing exuberant and flourishing. Some few years ago, gardening was considered but an indifferent occupation; but as things take a change for the best, Guernsey was one of the foremost to bring this elegant amusement to its proper bearing. Aided and abetted by the natural good qualities of soil and climate, horticulture made rapid strides, and soon out-stripped some of the vaunted paradises of Europe, and the fruits, flowers, and vegetables that the Channel Isles' markets continually teem with, sufficiently testify the same. Among the list that may be seen continually pouring into our market, in their various seasons, may be enumerated the following: peaches, apricots, figs, strawberries, melons (rather inferior), walnuts, chesnuts, raspberries, mulberries, medlars, cucumbers, varieties of grapes, (in-door and out,) and abundance of apples and pears; the latter are exported to England in considerable quantities, together with grapes, figs, and melons; the last mentioned are imported from Lower Normandy and Britany, and are of a delicious flavour. Large chaumontel pears, being generally destined for presents in England, fetch a good price, and at times 3l. to 5l. per hundred is readily obtained for them, and even more, if they weigh from twelve to eighteen ounces. The small ones, which are generally the largest crop, may be obtained exceedingly reasonable by the bushel. The Guernsey fig being also much esteemed, large quantities are brought into the market, where they only fetch from 3d. to 4d. per dozen. Whole vergées of strawberries may be seen in the country for the same purpose, and yield 1½d. per lb. Grapes (out-door) are from 2d. to 3d. do., Spanish muscatel 6d. do. Melons are from 6d. to 1s. The principal nurseries are Nant's, Luff's, and Lumby's.
Gas.—
Is supplied to houses in town and the suburbs, from two spacious gas-holders sufficiently large to supply three times the present consumption. The town is but partially lit with gas; the old oil-lamp being still in general use. The proprietor of the works is Mr Thomas Edge, of Westminster, who erected them in 1830.
George, Fort.—
Is the principal fortification of the island, and is constructed on the improved form of a square, having four bastions connected by curtains, with a ravelin to the South, and a counter-scarp to the South-West. It will admit about three thousand men, and has thirty-four pieces of cannon, four mortars, and a caronade. Most of the batteries are erected in a form for repelling the enemy at sea, and some of them are very formidable. From the ramparts or parade ground there is one of the most extensive and diversified prospects in the island; and underneath the former are spacious casemates, which in case of a siege can be converted into barracks. It was completed in the year 1812, at a national cost of 200,000l., but was commenced immediately after the breaking out of the American war, in 1782.
Goal.—
The public goal was erected in 1811, and cost the island 11,000l. It is a solid structure, built entirely with blue granite, and has a neat front elevation, in which are two galleries; the lower one for debtors, the upper one for criminals. The debtors have five cells, in all of which are fire-places, and the creditors by whom they are incarcerated are obliged to find them in blankets, a bedstead and straw palliasses; but must supply themselves with bed, bedding, and other furniture at their own expence. They are unlocked throughout winter and summer at eight o'clock in the morning, and are locked up at sun-set every evening. They have a large court yard to walk in. The cells are provided with bell-pulls, communicating with the bed-room of the Governor, in case of sickness.
The felons' cells are ten in number, eight for the men, and two for the women; but it has been observed by the benevolent Mrs Fry, that the cells for the latter are not sufficiently apart from those of the men, insomuch that when locked up they can converse with each other, especially when taking air, being only separated by a partition of sheet iron and bars. Felons and criminals are allowed exercise on the gallery in front of their cells, and according to the prison regulations are to be unlocked from ten in the forenoon till two in the afternoon; though, in point of fact, this space of time is generally extended by the Governor, particularly in the summer season. In four of the cells are fire-places, and prisoners are allowed straw palliasses, three blankets and a rug; firing they must provide at their own expence. On a prisoner becoming refractory he may be deprived of his liberty, and by a report of the case to the Baillif within twenty-four hours, may be confined to the black-hole. Irons are not used on felons about to undergo the last penalty of the law, and prisoners under solitary confinement perform no work. There is no sick ward nor chapel, neither is there a chaplain appointed to visit the prisoners, but bibles and religious tracts are provided for their use.
The Governor has a house within the prison walls in which debtors may be accommodated, provided they pay an additional sum of 1s. 9d. per week. Debtors not having the wherewithal to maintain themselves, are allowed 9d. per day, which the creditor at whose suit they are imprisoned is bound to pay them, otherwise they are set at liberty. Criminals are provided for out of the revenue belonging to the Crown. Strangers are permitted to visit debtors from nine in the morning until four in the afternoon, from the 1st of October to the 1st of April, and from nine in the morning until seven in the afternoon from the 1st of April to the 1st of October.
The Goal.
Herbs and Medical Plants.—
Are in great abundance in every part of the island, but as a list of them would be out of place in a work of this kind, it only remains for me to mention those which are in the greatest profusion under foot, and which, from close observation I have found to be most useful in medicine, cookery, and other purposes. They are:—wood-sage, camomile, samphire, lords and ladies, fools-stones, blue-bells, pennyworth,[A] ladies' smock, hagnebuts, eryngo,[B] fox-glove, night-shade, high-taper, mugwort, robin-run-in-the-hedge and mouse-ear, with numerous others.
[A] From a memorandum dated April 3, 1832, I find that pennyworth or hart's-tongue steeped in vinegar for twenty-four hours, to be the most efficient remedy for corns I ever knew, and on communicating it to a few others, they were pleased to acknowledge the same. I have many other memorandums on Guernsey herbs; but as they are written in Latin, and were mislaid up to the hour of publishing, are consequently omitted.
[B] Hops are antiseptic, and are an excellent thing for packing game in, for in a memorandum, Wednesday, September 7, 1842—"Received a hamper of grouse from a friend in Newcastle; were a fortnight at sea, and perhaps had been killed for upwards of a month: nevertheless, from their mouths and other parts being well stuffed with hops, arrived in pretty tolerable condition." Wild hops may be observed growing in several parts of the island, especially about some of the hedges in the Valle, and near the Friquet. Camomile flower is also remarkably abundant in this vicinity, and in a field called the Queen's meadow the ground is literally covered with it.—Memorandum, August 12, 1842.
Lords and Ladies.
Hay.—
Varies in price, but is hardly ever beyond 6l. per ton, if so, the season must be unusually bad. The upland hay is generally esteemed the best.
Horses.—
Are small, cross grained, and given to biting; but are lusty and hard workers. They are cheaper than in England, and a hack may be kept in the best order for about 20l. per annum. Horses at the livery stables may be hired at from 4s. to 7s. per day. There are no taxes on horses, carriages or livery servants.
Hospital.—
This excellent institution, the admiration of every stranger, is under the direction of a Treasurer, Vice-Treasurer, six Directors, and six Collectors, elected by the rate-payers: and although called an hospital, partakes of the properties of a poor-house, a refuge for the destitute, a work-house, a penitentiary, and for the destitute youth of both sexes a seminary of instruction; and, but for the receptacle for lunatics, its interior economy reflects the greatest credit on the island. There is a chaplain whose salary is 30l. per annum, and the medical department is under the most liberal regulations. The boys and girls have schools, in which they are educated in all things useful for their future occupations through life. Indeed, the system pursued is in accordance with the most approved methods of modern times, for the expences are partly defrayed by the labour of the inmates, together with a strict performance of all the other in-door work, which is effected with the utmost regularity, order and cleanliness imaginable. So much is the general system admired, that it is spoken of in exceeding high terms by Quail and several other writers and travellers. A late visitor says:—"On entering the hospital, the scene was an active one, insomuch that almost all the men were occupied, some in weaving cloth, some as tailors, others as shoe-makers, &c., whilst the women were engaged in washing.[A] On the whole, whether we regard this hospital as an asylum from misery, or as a school of morality, I must say that I have never yet seen any institution in the kingdom that would stand in competition with it."
[A] In addition to washing for the hospital, a great deal is taken in from families living in the neighbourhood; by which means the women do much towards paying the expence of their maintenance. The greater part of the cloth, shoes, &c., which the men manufacture, is sold. The men are also employed as scavengers.
The number of inmates admitted in 1840, were 121 men, 100 women, 34 boys, and 27 girls, forming a total of 282. In the same year were indentured, 6 boys and 2 girls, whilst those discharged, escaped, or expelled were 33 boys, and 25 girls. The total expenditure of the said year was £4,358 8s. 5d. The following items pretty clearly indicate the comforts that reign within, as also the good feeling and humanity of the people of Guernsey:—14,526 lbs. of beef; 4,085 lbs. of bacon and pork; 471 qrs. of wheat; 115½ hhds. of beer; 3,964 lbs. of butter; 1,400 faggots; 2,562 gallons of milk, together with many other things in due proportion. The average yearly expence of each inmate, is not more than seven pounds, notwithstanding that at least half of those in the hospital are boys and girls who produce but little, being the greater part of the day in school; and then there are also many lunatics and infirm people who are totally unable to do any thing towards their own support, and who are treated with great kindness, and allowed abundance of good food and clothing.
The Country Hospital is nearly on the same principle, and is situated in a secluded kind of valley, in the Câtel parish.
Hospital Bread Knife.
Hospital Bread Machine.
Inns and Hotels.—
In town, these are replete with every accommodation and comfort. The principal are Marshall's and Gardner's, and from both being situated in High-street, a very little distance from the pier, the porters are enabled without delay to set the visitor at ease. At the country inns may be obtained good plain fare, such as bread, butter, eggs, bacon, milk, cream, fish, cider, beer, spirits and wine, which latter article is not always to be had, and if so, is sometimes of an indifferent quality. Besides inns, there are other houses in the country that entertain pic-nic parties throughout the summer, some of which are very superior in their accommodations, and exceedingly moderate in their charges. They may be easily discovered as the drivers of the coaches and omnibuses which run round the island, either know or put up at them.
Marshall's Hotel.
St James's Church.
James's Church, St.—
Was erected in 1818, and was consecrated on the 6th of August in the same year. It is situated opposite the side of the new Prison and near the College play ground, and is generally allowed to be a handsome specimen of Grecian architecture, the tower, portico and dome being considered the chief features. The funds for erecting it were raised in part from the sale of the pews, and from liberal donations granted by the late Lord De Saumarez, of which 400l. went in purchase of four hundred free sittings for the poor and the children of the national schools; 120l. for the dome and tower, and latterly a donation of 400l., together with many other contributions and assistance, amounting in the whole to upwards of 1000l. The rest was raised by public subscription.
The church contains 1300 sittings, amongst which are four for the use of the minister, and twelve for casual strangers. The service, on Sundays is at half past ten in the morning, and in the evening at half past six. Prayers are also read on Wednesdays and Fridays at noon, and also on festivals. The sacrament of the Lord's supper is twice in the quarter. The bell of this church cost 100l. and the organ 500l.
John's Church, St.—
Was erected in the year 1836, and in its style emulates the early English, though many of those genuine features are lost sight of. Contrary to every other church, the tower is at the East and the altar at the West end. It is built of well-wrought blue granite, and from being situated in the centre of a woody district, forms a considerable addition to the landscape. The foundation stone was laid by the late Lord De Saumarez, and it contains 600 sittings, 200 of which are free for the poor. The services are in English; two full services on Sundays, and weekly evening lecture. The endowment consists of a parsonage-house, adjoining the church, and 13l. per annum secured on rents; together with the surplus of the pews, which after payment of the current expences of the church, may amount to about 90l. per annum, provided the pews are all let.
St John's Church.
Land.—
The price at which it is rented will scarcely be credited by strangers, as it must be exceedingly inferior, if it does not fetch 3l. per vergée, which is at the rate of 7l. 10s. per statute acre. The Couture, which is the best sample, may be valued at 5l. per vergée per annum. Land for building, in the vicinity of the town, is so enormously high, that at times it has fetched one thousand pounds per English acre.
Letters.—
Are delivered in the town and suburbs, almost immediately after the arrival of the packet. In the country it is not so, for it sometimes happens that the packet is signaled as early as eight o'clock, whereas the letters have not been delivered until four o'clock in the evening.[A] The Post-Office Packets come in regularly twice a week, Sundays and Thursdays, unless prevented by exceedingly severe weather.
[A] This delay evidently proceeds from want of more letter-carriers, and which I have since heard is the case. According to my Jersey diary, letters were regularly brought to my house at Le Hocquette, about two miles and a half from town, between one and two o'clock, provided the packet had a tolerable passage.—Mem. Aug. 10, 1840.
Light-house.—
Also called the Round-house, is situated at the head of the South pier, and was erected for the convenience of mariners approaching the road-stead and harbour in the night. It is a large lantern, in which several gas-burners are introduced, and the light may be seen coming through the Small Russel from the Northward, the Great Russel from the Eastward, and from the Southward when rounding St Martin's Point.
Light-House.
Libraries.—
There are two: one belonging to the Mechanics' Institution, and Redstone's circulating library, in both of which are reading rooms. In the former lectures are delivered throughout the winter.
Manufactories.—
Are few, the principal being those for potatoe spirit, vinegar, Roman cement, bricks, soap and candles, paper and cordage. The main portion of the spirit, vinegar, cement and bricks is for exportation; whilst the soap, candles, and cordage are for local consumption. The largest distillery is at the Bouet, near Ivy Castle, belonging to Messrs Valpy and Lainé. It has a steam-engine, and every necessary apparatus for distilling spirit from native potatoes, when it is exported for the London market, where it is rectified. Three years' export of this article is as follows: 1834, 8,468 gallons; 1835, 52,639 gallons; 1836, 17,644 gallons.
Margaret Church, St.—
The parish church of the Forest was consecrated on the 3d September, 1163. It has a nave, North aisles and chancel; and has a low tower and octagonal spire at the junction of the chancel and nave. The North aisle is of modern structure, with plain granite lintels, and a square-headed piscina in the East wall. One of the South windows appears to have been divided into two lights, with an orbit between, and the rude ornamented heads cut out of blocks of granite. Like every thing else, this window has submitted to the chisel of modern art, wherefore the ornamental portions have been worked off in order to form a segmental head. The inside wall of the chancel is splayed, and the East window semi-circular and cinque-foil. The East and West sides of the tower are longer than the others, consequently impart to the spire an ugly and deformed appearance.
The Forest Church.
Martellos.—
Are round towers situated on the coast in different parts of the island, at stated distances, particularly on the Northern or vale side, and are garrisoned with soldiers in time of war.
Martin's Church, St—
Consists of a nave, chancel and aisle. The two former, with the tower, which is at the junction of the two, are of the early English style, and the latter with the windows of the building of modern formation. There was once a slab that contained a brass plate representing a lay-man or merchant with his lady. The stone is still there, but much defaced, and probably in a few years will entirely disappear. The porch, facing the South, which is of the decorative style, is the most elegant in the island. The corner buttresses are terminated with ornamental pinnacles of crochets and finials, and are set diagonally at one stage. According to the "Dédicace des Eglises," this church was consecrated on the 4th of February, 1199, in the tenth year of the reign of Henry II, king of England.
St Martin's Church.
Meat—
Is very good, and surpasses that of Jersey, but is dearer than in England, though to an English resident, if he draws his income from England, it will not appear so, considering there are 18 ounces to the pound, and that he gets from 5 to 6 per cent premium for his money. Beef sells at 5d. to 8d. per lb.; mutton, 6d. to 8d.; veal 5d. to 7d.; pork 4d. to 6d.; bacon, 6d., 9d. and 11d.
Meat Market, the—
Is commodious, clean and airy, and is perhaps one of the most convenient, both for buyer and seller that can be found in any part of the world, and is as well furnished with meat as any market in England.