CONVENIENT ARRANGEMENT FOR KITCHEN DEVICES

HOME LABOR SAVING
DEVICES

BY

RHEA C. SCOTT

INSTRUCTOR IN HOME DEMONSTRATION WORK AT GEORGE PEABODY COLLEGE FOR TEACHERS.
NASHVILLE, TENN.; FORMERLY ASSISTANT STATE DEMONSTRATION AGENT IN LOUISIANA.

ILLUSTRATED BY
MRS. R. E. GAMBLE

SECOND EDITION, REVISED.

PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

Electrotyped and Printed by J. B. Lippincott Company
At the Washington Square Press, Philadelphia, U. S. A.

TO THE WOMEN AND GIRLS OF THE FARM, LOVERS OF THE FIELDS, AND FRIENDS OF THE FLOWERS, WHOSE HEARTS HEAR THE CALL AND WHOSE HANDS SEEK THE SKILL TO MAKE THE RURAL HOME A PLACE OF LIGHT, OF HEALTH, OF BEAUTY, THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

PREFACE

The point of view from which this manual was written is indicated in the introduction.

The aims are to increase efficiency in the farm home and to satisfy the growing demand for useful information in the country schools.

This is done by giving suggestions and directions for practical work to be done in the home and at school.

Throughout the country to-day many rural schools are expressing a desire to add to their present school curricula courses which are practical. The ideal kept in mind during the preparation of this manual has been to supply that need and at the same time to make it possible for any woman to use the book in her own home.

The limitations in the size have caused many omissions. It is the intention of the author to enlarge upon this material as the demand increases. Ideas and suggestions from other States have been dominant throughout, thus carrying out the true demonstration point of view.

The Author.

January, 1917.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Acknowledgment and thanks are gratefully given to the following persons for suggestions, use of material, and corrections:

Miss Ola Powell, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for making this little volume possible by inspirational suggestions furnished throughout the preparation of the manual and especially for the use of her two models of jelly strainers and illustrations on cheese making.

Mr. O. B. Martin, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for his most valuable suggestions and sympathetic interest during the entire preparation of the material.

The United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for photographs of roller tray wagon, water works system, and ideas obtained from circular letter prepared by Miss Mary E. Creswell and Miss Ola Powell, of the States Relations Service, Office of Extension Work in the South.

Mr. Harry M. Lamon, Poultry Division of the Bureau of Animal Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for illustrations of poultry house, dry mash hopper and chicken coop, and the use of information in Farmers’ Bulletin, No. 574.

Mr. B. H. Rawl, Chief of the Dairy Division, Bureau of Animal Industry; United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., and Mr. J. H. McClain and other specialists in the Dairy Division for assistance in taking the pictures and for criticisms and corrections of the material.

Mr. N. E. D. Talcott, State Agent in Poultry Club Work in Virginia, for the use of his dry mash hopper and oat-sprouting rack.

Dr. John W. Wayland, State Normal School, Harrisonburg, Va., for his appropriate dedication.

Miss Elizabeth C. Cleveland, Head of the English Department, State Normal School, Harrisonburg, Va., for reading and correcting manuscript.

Mrs. K. C. Blythe, Leesburg, Va., for permission to use a dish drainer.

Mr. C. E. Hanson, A. & M. College, College Station, Texas, for his interest and helpful suggestions.

Miss Emma Chandler, State Agent in Home Demonstration Work, Stillwater, Okla., for the use of iceless refrigerator No. 2 and directions for making same.

Mr. Thos. H. Fullan, Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, Ala., for the use of his milking stool and suggestions for making the shower bath.

Mrs. Helen Brown Wolcott, State Agent in Home Demonstration Work, Lexington, Ky., for ideas for making the dish rack.

To “The Country Gentleman” for illustrations of cheese making.

Also others who have contributed to this volume.

CONTENTS

PAGE
Introduction [13-14]
CHAPTER I
Kitchen Conveniences [15]
Vegetable Paring Table, Wall Cabinet for the Kitchen, Ironing Board,Jelly Strainer, No. 1 and No. 2, Dish Drainer, Dish Rack, Coal Box,Wood Box, Fireless Cooker, Home-made Cook Stove Drier.
CHAPTER II
Dining Room Conveniences [43]
Roller Tray Wagon, Sideboard, Screen.
CHAPTER III
Porch Equipment [51]
Iceless Refrigerator, No. 1 and No. 2, Umbrella Stand, Blacking Box,Towel Roller, Porch Swing.
CHAPTER IV
Miscellaneous Equipment [67]
Dustless Mop, Folding Canning Table, Fly Trap, Garbage Barrel,Scrubbing Chariot, Sewing Screen, Shower Bath, Practical WaterworksSystem.
CHAPTER V
Poultry Devices [84]
Poultry House, Nests, Egg Tester, Dry Mash Hopper, No. 1 and No. 2,Rack for Oat-Sprouting Trays, Dust Boxes, Drinking Vessel, ChickenBrooder.
CHAPTER VI
Dairy Devices [99]
Butter-making, Butter Worker, Milking Stool, Cheese-making Equipment.
APPENDIX
Fundamentals in Woodworking, Suggested List of Tools, List of Publicationsfor Supplementary Reading.
Index [117]

ILLUSTRATIONS

Page
Convenient Arrangement for Kitchen Devices [Frontispiece]
An Exhibit of Home-made Labor Saving Devices [14]
Home-made Driers Ready for Use [36]
Assembled Material for Building a Fireless Cooker [40]
Roller Tray Wagon, Including Compartment for China and a Drawerfor Silver and Linen [44]
Iceless Refrigerator [54]
Sewing Screen [78]
A Portable Poultry House, Showing the Exterior and Interior [84]
Churning Operations [104]
Drawing the Curd [108]
Pressing the Curd [108]
Moulding the Cheese [109]
Necessary Equipment Used in Cheese-making [109]

INTRODUCTION

By President Julian A. Burruss
State Normal School for Women, Harrisonburg, Va.

No phase of modern social development has received more attention in recent years than that of our rural population. Advances have been striking along all lines of country life. It would, however, be too much to say that the interests of women and their work in the home have received the attention properly due them. Frequently farmers of the highest type will equip their farms with the latest and best implements and machinery for their work and yet will fail to provide their homes with equipment equally as essential and desirable for the work of the women members of their households. Women’s organizations and the agents of the Home Demonstration Work, together with other agencies, have done much to direct attention along this very important line and in many communities labor-saving devices of a most ingenious character have been developed.

What is good for one busy housewife is not too good for another, and it is a good rule to push a good thing along for the benefit of others. With this in view the author has gathered together numerous inventions of home-made devices of a labor-saving and efficiency-increasing kind, and describes them in this little volume so that all to whom it may come may have the opportunity to make such contrivances, or modifications of them, for their own use. In doing this, the author has not merely had in her mind her own State, but has sought to recognize the viewpoints of women in as many other States as possible.

The author is peculiarly fitted for the task she has set herself. As Assistant State Agent for Home Demonstration Work in Virginia, under the direction of the United States Department of Agriculture, and as supervisor and community worker for a number of years in various rural districts before assuming the duties of her present position, she has had abundant facilities for becoming familiar with the conditions prevailing in country homes. Having maintained sympathetic relationships with country women for many years, she knows their problems and their needs, and she is also familiar with the sources from which help may be drawn.

There can be no real improvement in social life in the country unless there is leisure time to be devoted to uplifting, cultural, and recreational purposes. The only way in which this may be obtained is by means of labor-saving and time-saving appliances. The articles here described are intensely practical and may be readily made in any home at a nominal cost. To make two blades of grass grow where one formerly grew is certainly a very valuable achievement; but to save muscles and nerves, and to give time and energy for mental and social and spiritual development, is far more valuable and desirable. If the information given in this book serves to lighten the burden and shorten the daily drudgery of a single housewife, its publication will be justified; and it should find a cordial reception in a multitude of homes.

AN EXHIBIT OF HOME-MADE LABOR SAVING DEVICES BY THE CANNING CLUB AT THE STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, HARRISONBURG, VA.

HOME LABOR SAVING
DEVICES

CHAPTER I

KITCHEN CONVENIENCES

VEGETABLE PARING TABLE

A convenient kitchen table made of poplar and covered with zinc with an opening in the center through which the parings of vegetables or the scraping of dishes may be put into a pail sitting on the lower shelf. This saves soiling the floor and many steps while preparing the vegetables for cooking. It should be remembered that the pail underneath must be removed and the contents emptied into the garbage barrel after each using. It is not a garbage pail and should in no sense be used as such. Above the table hooks on which hang many smaller cooking utensils, such as paring knives, graters, spoons, scissors, or can openers, are all arranged to accommodate the housekeeper.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

After cutting legs, nail on cleats even with the top edge, measuring 14” for the bottom cleat. Measure 2” from the ends and sides of the top and nail on the legs. Measure 7¾” from the right-hand end and 9” from the side and make a hole 8” in diameter. Nail the bottom shelf at an equal distance from the bottom of the legs.

WALL CABINET FOR THE KITCHEN
(Made from Dry Goods Boxes)

A comfort to the housewife is a kitchen cabinet, containing different compartments for spices and such accessories necessary in cooking. It is made of boxes and should be put at some place convenient to the work table so the woman will not have to move to get these things when preparing a meal. It surely fulfils the old adage, “A place for everything and everything in its place.”

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Remove the sides from the box, making them the exact length of the inside of the box. Draw a line across the bottom and the ends of the box about 2” from the edge of the sides. Nail the sides to the bottom and the ends of the box about 2” from the edge of the sides, with outside faces on pencil line. Plane and sandpaper the edges until they are smooth. Nail the shelves in at equal distances apart to make four compartments of equal size. Place three of the salt boxes in each compartment. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

IRONING BOARD

This ironing board is a very great step saver. It is always ready and in place. It is fastened to the wall at the most convenient place and adjusted to suit the one who is to use it. When not in use it can be folded up and hinged against the wall out of the way. The leg is hinged to the ironing board and falls into position when the board is lifted. Skirts may be easily ironed without changing the position of the leg.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Plane the top of the board (1” × 14” × 3’) on the smoothest side. With a radius of 4½” lay out a semi-circle at the middle of one end of the board as shown in illustration. This may be done with a compass or with a string and pencil. Make the other end of the board square with one edge. Two feet from each end make a mark on each edge and draw a straight line from each of these marks tangent to the semi-circle. Saw along these lines, smoothing the edges with the plane. Fasten the wall strip (1” × 4” × 14”) to this top with 2 No. 3 (butt) hinges. Bore 3 ¼” holes through the board strip (1” × 4” × 10”) and fasten it to the bottom of the top at a distance of 34” from the wall strip. The brace (1” × 4” × 4’) is fastened to the board strip with one No. 3 (butt) hinge. ¾” holes are bored through the wall strip and it is fastened at a convenient height to the wall with 3 flat-head screws. After boring 3 ½” holes through the brace support (1” × 4” × 8”) it is screwed to the wall with 3 flat-head screws. Place this support directly below the wall strip and at such a distance from it to make the board level when the brace is in position. Bore 2 ¼” holes in one of the pieces measuring 1” × 2” × 4”, and one hole through the other piece. Fold the board up against the wall and fasten the piece with the two holes to the wall just a little to one side of the board and 2’ above the wall strip. The other piece with one hole is fastened to this piece to hold the ironing board in position.

The covering may be made of cotton flannel or an old blanket. Allow 2” on the sides and the end to be turned under after it has been cut the shape of the board. This must be tacked firmly and smoothly on the board. The ironing sheet may be made of unbleached muslin or an old sheet. This is also cut the shape of the board, allowing 4” on the sides and end for the hem. Attach pieces of tape to the opposite sides about 10” apart to tie the sheet on the board.

JELLY STRAINER NO. 1

An old chair is generally used to hang the jelly bag over while the juice is dripping. As a substitute the device shown in the following illustration is suggested as being more convenient and sanitary in every way. It not only provides a place for the bag to hang, but it also has a shelf on which the pan sits to catch the drippings from the bag. The legs are adjustable; hence it is easily taken apart and kept in a small space. This makes the strainer especially convenient to the Canning Club Agent as she goes her daily rounds teaching the housekeepers the art of jelly-making. It can be easily made at home and at a little cost.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Bevel the tops of all 4 of the legs at an angle of 45°. Make the upper shelf of the 4 pieces measuring 1” × 1½” × 7”. Measure 2¼” from the tops of the 4 legs and screw the upper shelf to the legs at these points. A solid piece of wood with a hole in the center may be used in making this shelf. Support this upper shelf by screwing the four triangular braces (1” × 2½” × 3”) in the corners of the shelf. Use the 8 1-inch No. 9 screws for this purpose. Saw the lower shelf out 1½” on each corner and screw it on the legs at a distance of 9” from the bottom of the legs. Sandpaper but do not stain. Take a piece of flannel of the desired size and make the jelly bag in the shape of a triangle. Sew a loop of tape at each corner to hang the bag over the posts.

JELLY STRAINER, NO. 2

While this jelly strainer is unique and useful in its construction it is not adjustable. It is made of poplar at a minimum cost. Around the top edge are arranged little brass hooks. These are put at equal distances apart. At the lower end of the trough two plugs are put, one above the other, through which the jelly juice flows out into a pan placed beneath the plugs.

The jelly bag is made of an oblong piece of flannel with ivory rings sewed around the edges so as to hang the bag on the brass hooks around the top of the frame.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Saw the two end pieces according to the illustration. Measure 6½” from the bottom of each end and cut them out ¼” to fit sides (1” thick) placing the sides ¾” from the outer side of the end pieces. Measure equal spaces from each side of the ends and put the handles 1½” from the top edge. Bore two holes ¾” in diameter near the bottom of the end to fit the plugs. Bevel the two sides (1” × 12” × 15½”) at the bottom so as to make a tight and neat joint. Screw the end pieces to the sides. Screw the brass cup hooks at equal distances apart around the top edge of the strainer.

DISH DRAINER

The work of dish-washing is greatly reduced by the use of a dish drainer. The dishes are carefully washed and arranged in the drainer, and boiling water poured over them. When they are dry, they can be put away or allowed to stand with a clean cloth thrown over them until ready to use.

This dish drainer resembles a box in shape, put on legs, with slats placed inside at equal distances apart, making the compartments to hold the dishes. The space in front is made a little larger to accommodate the irregular dishes. An experienced housewife will know that glassware and silverware cannot be dried by this method. A hole is made in one corner of the drainer through which the water drains off into a pail which is kept under the corner.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Make a pine box which is 8” deep and 24” × 26” long. The joints must be laid in white lead in order to make the drainer water tight. Nail 2 slats ¼” thick × 1” wide × 24” long down flat from the front to the back of the box at the outer edge. These are used as supports for the other crosswise slats and also allow the water to run under the slats. Nail 4 slats on these supports, beginning 3¼” from the back of the box and making a distance of 3¼” between each slat. This will leave a 9” space in front of the box for the irregular dishes. The front legs are made of the four pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 35” long, and the back legs are 1” thick × 4” wide × 36” deep. This slant provides for the drainage. The drainer should be tipped a little to the corner in which the drain pipe is placed. If zinc is to be used for lining, it must be done before the slats are put into the box.

DISH RACK

A rack made of poplar, with several compartments to accommodate dishes of different sizes.

The large platters are put in the largest upright spaces, the dinner plates being arranged in the middle-sized spaces, with the smaller plates and saucers in the top spaces. It may be placed at a convenient place in the kitchen or dining room so as to save the housekeeper unnecessary steps. Mortise and tenon joints will make a more substantial rack but these are not necessary. The parts may be nailed together. After joining the parts together, sandpaper, paint white and enamel.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Dish Rack

Directions:

Mortise the two end pieces ¼”, to fit tenon. Nail the two crosspieces, measuring (¾” × 1½” × 3”) to them. Make ¼” mortises on the two top pieces (¾” × 3” × 3”). These mortises are made 3” from the end and the two pieces nailed to crosspieces. Screw on the bottom board (1” × 2½” × 12”) with 1½” No. 9 screws. Mortise the 4 top and bottom pieces (¾” × 1½” × 30”) ½” from the top and bottom and nail them lengthwise on the rack. The two middle pieces (¾” × 1½” × 21”) are mortised and nailed 11” from the top edge of the bottom piece. The upright pieces (¾” × 1½” × 20½”) are nailed 9” from the left side. Nail the eight upright pieces (½” × ½” × 26”) on each side with No. 4 box nails. The top piece (¾” × 4½” × 33”) is nailed on the top of the rack. Sandpaper, paint and enamel.

COAL BOX

The construction of this box is both simple and convenient, and it requires little space in the room to accommodate it. There are four compartments in it. The back is divided equally to provide places for the kindling and paper; the front space is used for coal, and while it makes it more durable to line it with metal, this is not necessary. There is a narrow opening in the front in which the cleaning materials are kept—polish, brush, and stove rags. Stain or paint will make the coal box more attractive.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Measure 1’ 9¾” from the back of the two end pieces (1” × 2’ 2” × 3’). Cut the corners off from this point to make a slant which will fit the door 1’ 7” long. Nail the back (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 1”) to the two end pieces at the straight edge. The bottom piece (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 10”) is then nailed to the back and sides. Cut out a 4” × 1’ 11½” opening in the front piece (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 1½”) for the drawer and then nail the front to the sides and bottom. Take the piece which has been cut out and hinge it to the opening as shown in the illustration. Nail the back and top partitions in this opening before the slanting partition which divides this division from the coal bin is put in. Measure 9” from the back of the coal box and put the straight partition (1” × 21” × 1’ 11½”) in by nailing it to the bottom and sides of the coal box. Then the slanting partition (1” × 2’ 2” × 1’ 11½”) is nailed to the bottom and front edge of the box as shown in the illustration. Cut an opening (9” × 1’ 11½”) in the top (1” × 1’ 9¾” × 2’ 1½”) and then nail top on the box, using the piece which is cut out for the door to the opening. Hinge this piece on with one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges. The door support (½” × ½” × 1’ 11½”) is nailed on the inside of the back of the box. Bevel the piece (1” × 1’ 7” × 2’ 1½”) for the slanting door. It must fit each edge as shown in the illustration. Hinge this door at the upper edge of the top with one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges. One screen door handle is put on each opening to lift them. The four castors are placed on the bottom of each corner of the box to make it more easily moved about. Stain or paint the coal box.

A HOME-MADE COOK STOVE DRIER

This apparatus is designed to use on a wood or coal stove, an oil stove, or a gas range. It can be easily and inexpensively made at home.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

The frame consists of four wooden posts (1¼” × 1¼” × 23”); four side pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 21”); two front pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 11”); and two back pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 11”). To the posts are lightly nailed on each side six strips (1” × 2¼” × 23½”). These pieces serve as supports for the drying racks. The corners are notched out as indicated in the drawing to allow the strips to extend out to the outer wall of the drier.

For each side use a sheet of light weight sheet steel (23½” × 23”); for the back a sheet (13½” × 23”); for the top a sheet (13½” × 23½”). In the top piece an opening about 3” × 10” is cut about four inches from the back edge to permit the escape of moist air. It may be found at times that this ventilating opening is too large. Then it may be partially closed by placing over it a tin pan or other vessel.

For the bottom a sheet 13½” × 23½” is used. This sheet is thoroughly perforated with holes to admit the warm air. Another piece of sheet steel (A on the drawing) (7½” × 17½”) is provided to make the heat spread more evenly. This piece rests on wires above the bottom of the drier. These wires are put through small holes punched in the side sheets (see B on drawing).

The door is made of heavier gauge sheet steel (13½” × 23”).

The legs are made of four pieces of sheet steel bent on an angle as indicated in the drawing.

All the sheet steel parts may be tacked on the frame but the door, which is secured by hinges.

The frames of the six trays are made of ¾” wood 10½” wide and 20½” long.

Make the bottom of the trays of wire cloth (20½” × 10½”). This is tacked on the underside of the frame of the trays.

By referring to the drawing it will be observed that the bottom tray is shoved back as far as it will go; the next tray above is pulled as far front as the door will admit; the next tray is shoved back and so on with each tray shoving one to the back and pulling the other to the front. The object of this arrangement is to allow the heat to pass over and around the ends which causes a more rapid movement of the air current. This is more important in drying than the heat.

It may be necessary to shift the trays by putting the top one on the bottom and the bottom one on the top during the drying process so as to dry the products more uniformly.

Home-made driers ready for use.
(Courtesy of Peabody College for Teachers, Nashville, Tenn.)

WOOD BOX
(Made From Dry Goods Boxes)

What an unsightly spectacle does a wood pile by the stove, on the porch, or in the corner of the room present! It is a place of refuge for all trash, such as old papers and rags. This not only adds to the untidiness of the room or porch, but it makes extra work for the already overworked woman. The wood box made of old dry goods boxes should appeal strongly to the home. It can be kept by the stove or on the porch or in some convenient place to be reached, and to be filled by the man before he goes to his daily work. A lid will not only cover up the contents of the box, but it will serve as a comfortable seat to be used while preparing the meal.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Make the legs 4” longer than the depth of the box after the cover has been removed, and nail them on the box. Make the cover 2” wider and 2” longer than the outside length and width of the box. Place each cleat about 3” from the end of the cover and nail on the cover. Hinges are put 5” from each end of the box. Sandpaper, stain and polish.

FIRELESS COOKER

There are many advantages in having a fireless cooker in the home. It not only saves time and fuel but keeps the woman from standing over the hot fire, and there are many foods that are better when cooked at a lower temperature. The principle of the fireless cooker is to retain the heat by boiling the food in a vessel with a tight cover and placing it in the cooker in the same vessel, thus keeping the heat from escaping. An outside container may be made to accommodate one or more cooking vessels. A cheap but efficient fireless cooker may be made of a tightly built wooden box, a barrel, or a tin lard can as shown in the illustration. If the outside container is of wood it must be lined on the inside with asbestos or heavy paper to keep out the air.

The nest may be a galvanized or tin bucket of a size which will admit of three inches of packing between the outside container and the nest. The sides and bottom of the nest are covered with asbestos to prevent the scorching or the burning of the packing.

The packing must be of some material through which the heat cannot easily escape. Cork, sawdust, excelsior, hay, or shredded newspaper may be used to an advantage. Three inches of this packing is put tightly in the bottom of the outside container and around the sides to fill in the space between the outside container and the nest.

A four-inch space is left at the top of the fireless cooker in which a cushion made of unbleached cotton or some other material is stuffed with the packing and placed to make the cooker air-tight. Cut two circles out of the unbleached cotton and a three-inch straight piece to join the circles together. A hot soapstone, stove plate or brick is placed in the bottom of the nest before the food vessel is placed in the fireless cooker. The food vessel may be any cooking utensil with a top that will fit in the nest after the soapstone has been put in. Cut a circle of tin or cardboard to fit top of inside of cooker with an opening the size of the nest. This gives a good finish to the top of the fireless cooker and preserves the packing.

Assembled material for building a fireless cooker. 1, Outside container; 2, paper for lining; 3, material for packing; 4, inside nest; 5, cooker vessel; 6, soapstone; 7, paste; 8, tape; 9, cardboard; 10 muslin for cushion; 11, stain; 12, a finished cooker; 13, top to inside nest

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Place 3” of excelsior in the bottom of the outside container (18” × 24”) and pack it down tightly. Cover the bottom and sides of the nest (12” × 15”) with asbestos. Then place nest in the outside container holding it in place while 3” of packing is put tightly between the outside container and nest. Cut the cardboard circle to fit inside of the top of outside container with an opening to fit the top of the nest and put on top to give a good finish and to preserve the packing. Make the cushion for the top of the unbleached cotton by cutting two circles with 3” strip to join them together. Then pack the cushion tightly with the same packing. Enamel the cooker.

Any convenient box may be used and any can of convenient size, such as a lard can, etc. The cans should be wrapped with about 4 or 5 layers of asbestos paper. The space around the cans should be at least 2 inches, and filled with straw or wood shavings, etc. The top of the cans should be covered with a pad filled with straw or shavings, etc.

CHAPTER II

DINING-ROOM CONVENIENCES

ROLLER TRAY WAGON

An efficient and convenient table placed on casters and wheels and comprising a china closet, drawer for silverware, serving table, and roller tray all in one. This device is invaluable to the housekeeper who does her own work. It saves her many steps in the preparation and the serving of her meals. While she is entertaining at a luncheon, it takes the place of a maid, since the refreshments can be prepared, arranged on the wagon, and rolled out at the appointed time. The prices of a tea wagon made in wicker or some expensive wood are very high, but one like the following illustration can be made at a nominal cost, or it can be made of dry goods boxes for even less.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Roller tray wagon, including compartment for china and a drawer for silver and linen

Directions:

Take the 2 sides (1” × 5” × 33½”) and round each end in the shape of a half circle, boring a 1” hole in each end of side piece to hold handles (1” × 1” × 15”). Fit bottom on inside of box and nail it. Mortise 3½” from the top of the legs to fit cross pieces, 1” × 3½” × 12”. Make a ¼” mortise on the legs 9” from the bottom for the support of the bottom shelf. Measure 2½” from the top of the leg to put tenon for the front drawer support. Construct the opposite end of the table in the same way. The upper top of table, showing the lid and handle, should be fastened to top after the table is made. In making the frame for the drawer, 2½” deep × 13½” wide × 23½” long, nail the front and back to the sides. Then nail the bottom of the drawer to the inside of this frame with one partition nailed crosswise the center of the drawer. Place handles on the front of the drawer about 3” from each end. Screw on the 2 pieces placed 9” from bottom of the leg, with 2½” No. 10 screws. Cut the bottom shelf out 1½” at each corner, fit to the legs, and screw. This shelf must be stationary. Brackets, 1” × 8” × 8”, are screwed on at one end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the wheels are fastened. The drawer may be used for silverware and to keep the linen. The side used for silverware should be lined with felt or outing. The table should be well dressed by sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not varnish it because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission stain.

SIDEBOARD
(Made of Dry Goods Boxes)

A unique article made of dry goods boxes, which may be used in the dining room as a sideboard or in the kitchen as a cupboard. Two dry goods boxes are joined together to make the lower section, one end on each box being removed to be used as shelves in the sideboard. The upper section with its three shelves is made from pieces of other boxes. On two of the shelves brass hooks are arranged at equal distances apart, on which the cups hang. A groove may be made under the lower shelf and on the top shelf, in which the small plates and saucers rest. The two drawers, made according to dimensions and out of pieces of boxes, can be lined with felt or outing flannel to hold the silverware. Attractive curtains may be made of some suitable material and hung in front of the upper section. This is especially an interesting problem for boys in a school to work out.

Materials:

Dimensions: Lower Section:

Upper Section:

Directions:

Boxes which can be most easily converted into the desired sections must be selected. Two boxes (13” × 12½” × 26”) are joined together to form the body of the lower section of the sideboard. Remove the ends of the boxes, to be used as shelves, using the side of a larger box for the top of this section. The shelves are fastened in by 4 cleats (½” × ¾” × 12”) nailed crosswise the partition and the sides of the section. Four strips (½” × 2¾” × 36”) and four strips (½” × 2¼” × 36”) are taken from the third box to make the legs of the cabinet. The doors are fastened on with hinges, using two metal knobs in front of the doors to open them. The foundation of the upper section is made of a box (5” deep × 18” × 26”). The three crosspieces used as shelves are made from the two small boxes (5” × 12” × 18”). Make the drawer of a box (5” × 18” × 24”), putting a partition through the center of the box and on the inside if two drawers be desired. Place two hand bolts on the front of the drawer. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the sideboard.

SCREEN

A screen is useful in many ways in the home. It adds a great deal to the appearance of a bedroom. By putting it around the bed one may often avoid draughts. In the dining room it is indispensable in the front of a serving table while the meal is going on. The illustration above shows a two-panelled screen which may be easily made in the home, or it furnishes good material for a woodwork problem to be used in the school. It is made of oak and covered with burlap. By adding to the number of pieces the third panel may be made with ease.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions

:

Measure and saw the pieces according to required dimensions. Cut the joints and nail the three crosspieces to the two upright pieces. Make the other panel in the same way and join the two together with the three hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the frame. After it has dried thoroughly, cover it with the burlap on the outside, tacking this on with the brass-headed tacks.

CHAPTER III

PORCH EQUIPMENT

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 1

Country homes without ice houses and too far from town to have access to manufactured ice may have an iceless refrigerator as a good substitute. This convenience comprises a simple wooden frame with a covering of canton flannel, burlap, Indian-head cloth or linen crash made to fit so that little air is admitted into it. Wicks made of the same material as the cover are tacked on top of each side of the cover and extend over into the pan of water sitting on top of the frame. This water is taken up by the wicks and carried down on the sides of the cover by capillary attraction when evaporation takes place, drawing the heat from the inside and lowering the temperature. The more rapid the evaporation, the lower the temperature. Tests have shown that if the refrigerator is kept in a place where the air circulates around it freely, a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit may be obtained.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Make the frame 3½’ high with twelve crosspieces tacked to the four posts, nailing the first 4 strips 9” from the bottom of the frame, and the remaining 8 strips about 11” apart. An 18½” square frame is made of wood and nailed on top of the posts. The corners of this square are mitered or lapped over and tacked together. Use a biscuit pan to fit in top of the square to hold the water. The whole refrigerator should stand in a larger pan which catches the drippings from the cover and keeps away the insects. The screen door is made 39” long × 16” wide, which is joined to the frame with hinges and fastens with a hook. Three movable shelves with perforations in them are made of zinc. Cover the whole frame with wire screening to protect it from the flies. When the frame is finished it should be painted white and enameled. This will permit of its being washed every day. A covering of white canton flannel is made to fit the screen, with the smooth side out, care being taken that the cover comes to the lower edge of the frame. The wicks are made half the width of the sides and tacked on the top edge of each side. These must be long enough to extend 3” over into the water. Strips of canton flannel 2” wide are tacked all around the sides and the top of the frame, and the eyes are sewed on these. White tape may be used for this purpose if more convenient. Sew one row of hooks on the edge of the covering near the latch and the other just opposite the opening, with the hem to extend far enough over on each side to cover crack at the edge of door. This permits the door to be opened without unfastening the hooks, keeping out the warm outside air and at the same time retaining the cool air inside the refrigerator. Hook the covering around the top also. Place the refrigerator in a shady place where the air will circulate around it freely. Keep the wicks in a supply of fresh water in the top pan. The water is taken down the sides by capillary attraction, and when evaporation takes place the heat is taken from the inside thereby lowering the temperature.

First View Second View Third View
Iceless refrigerator

ICELESS REFRIGERATOR NO. 2

Another type of iceless refrigerator which appears more crude can be made at a cost of $1.80. In this a cotton sack is used for the covering. This refrigerator has proved more satisfactory than one would suppose. The butter and milk from several cows has been kept in a model of this type at ten degrees cooler than the outside air. It might be well to use cotton flannel for the covering instead of ducking because when the cloth is wet evaporation takes place more rapidly.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Nail the piece (2” × 4” × 18”) on the side of the stem making it even with the bottom piece. Saw a 2” base out on the side of the stem and nail the other piece measuring 2” × 4” × 18”. Measure 25” from the bottom of the stem and nail on 2 cleats to support the shelf. Cut space in the center of piece (1” × 32” × 32”) large enough to fit the stem and nail it to the cleats, thus making the first shelf. From this point measure 20” and nail 2 cleats on the stem to support the second shelf (1” × 32” × 32”). Measure 13” from the top of the stem and nail on shelf (1” × 20” × 20”) after cutting an opening (2” × 4”) in the center of shelf. The curtain is made of 4 widths of the canton flannel measuring 66” in length with a draw string put at the top and bottom of the curtain. This makes the refrigerator dust and fly proof.

UMBRELLA STAND

A good problem to be used in woodwork classes in the school or to be made by boys in the home. It will be found appropriate and useful in the reception hall or on the porch. It is built of dry goods boxes, with a five-cent pan used in the bottom to catch the drippings from the umbrellas.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Make three boxes of the six pieces (½” × 3” × 12”) and six pieces (½” × 3” × 11”), putting the bottom, 12” square, on the bottom box to be used as foundation of the frame. Make a hole in this bottom large enough to hold a round tin pan. This hole should be cut before nailing the piece on the bottom of the box. Nail the four long pieces (measuring ¼” × 2¼” × 30”) on the end of the three boxes, placing the boxes seven inches apart on the frame. Nail four pieces (measuring ¼” × 2½” × 30”) on the ends of the boxes to extend one-fourth inch over the first four strips which were nailed on the boxes. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

BLACKING BOX

A necessary and useful home convenience made of a box, with a cover made in two sections and joined with hinges. It is a time-saver to the busy housewife who has to go so often in search for blacking and polish before she can get the children ready for school. It serves as a reminder to the busy farmer who is disposed to go to town or to church before giving his shoes a dressing.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

Remove the cover from box (5¾” deep × 13¾” × 14¼”) and nail the legs on, making them seven inches longer than the outside depth of the box. Nail one half of the cover on top of box, allowing it to project evenly all round the edge of the box. Fasten the other half of the cover to this half with hinges. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

TOWEL ROLLER

A towel roller built so simply that any boy on the farm would take pleasure in working out the problem. It is much easier to keep a clean towel in the right place when the proper place is provided for the towel to be kept. This convenience should be a joy to every tired farmer when he comes in to partake of a meal. Again, the tendency of all children to throw the towels about the place is a great nuisance to the housewife. This rack provides that the towel be sewed together and placed on the roller, which is then slipped into the groove made to hold it.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions:

The brackets are made any desired shape, with a hole a half-inch in diameter bored in the centre of each piece. A slit is cut in one bracket from the hole to the top for the end of the rod to slip in and out. Round the piece (1¼” × 1¾” × 24”) for the rod. At each end cut a tenon one inch in diameter. Nail the end pieces to the board (¾” × 5” × 24”). Insert the rod into the hole in the one end piece and slip it into the slit at the other end. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.

PORCH SWING

An inexpensive mission style swing made of oak with space long enough for two to sit in and broad enough to be used for lounging purposes. A pad made of burlap and stuffed with an old discarded quilt will add to the comfort of the swing.

Dimensions:

Directions:

Mortise the end posts for the back and the front, also arm posts. Mortise the back and front and end rails of the frame to fit the end posts. Nail and glue them into position. Round the edges of the seat slats and nail to cleats on the front and back of the frame. Mortise the back and end slats, fitting them into the rails and frame and fasten with strong glue. Use support made of iron and fastened to the seat with screws to give strength to the mortises formed at the arms and front posts. The chains to suspend the swing are fastened to holes made in these iron supports. Make the back of the swing first, then the ends and front, nailing the seat slats in after the glue has fastened the mortises securely together.

CHAPTER IV

MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT

A DUSTLESS MOP

A cheap and efficient article for the housewife is a mop made of old stockings and the handle of an old, discarded broom. This mop may be used successfully for polished and painted floors as well as for unpolished floors. It is made by cutting the straw off of a broom which has worn out. This is cut even with the wires which hold the straw on the handle. Cover this part of the broom with an old stocking, which is tacked to the handle securely by sewing it around two or three times with a double thread. Legs of old stockings are cut twelve inches long with these strips cut leaving a band two inches wide to sew to the covering of the broom. Sew them round and round the surface in rows about an inch apart, until the mop has been made the desired thickness. Dip the mop into a solution made of one-half a cupful of melted paraffin and one cupful of coal oil. When the mop is not in use, it must be wrapped up and kept in a paper bag in order to keep it moist.

FOLDING CANNING TABLE

The table shown in this illustration is made of poplar and designed especially for the Canning Club agent. It folds up and requires little space, which makes it convenient to take around during the canning season. The top is zinc-lined to make it more durable and sanitary. In the center an opening is made to hold the bucket which catches the parings from the vegetables or fruits. On the left side is an adjustable zinc-lined trough to hold the vegetables or fruits while preparing them for use. This will save many steps in going to and from the basket to get these things. A hole is bored in the trough, to which is attached a small pipe that allows the water with which the vegetables or fruits have been washed to run off.

Materials:

Dimensions:

Directions: