Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been faithfully replicated except as listed [here].

[Preface] [Table Of Contents] [List Of Illustrations] [Pre-Cruise Comments by A. V. Humboldt] [Appendices] [Advertisements]

CHART OF THE TRACK OF THE AUSTRIAN IMPERIAL FRIGATE NOVARA ON HER VOYAGE ROUND THE GLOBE
In The Years 1857, 1858 & 1859.
[Larger.]

NARRATIVE
OF THE
Circumnavigation of the Globe
BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
NOVARA,
IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,
VOL. I.

(COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government,
UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS
THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN, COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.

DR. KARL SCHERZER,

MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.

LONDON:
SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.
66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
1861.

[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WOODFALL AND KINDER,
ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET.

TO

SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON,

G.C.S.ST., M.A., D.C.L., V.P.R.S., G.S., L.S., F.R.G.S.,
DIRECTOR-GENERAL OF THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND,
TRUST. BRIT. MUS., ETC., ETC.,

THE GREAT PROMOTER OF GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE,

These Pages are respectfully Inscribed,

IN RECOGNITION OF HIS VALUABLE EXERTIONS IN ADVANCING THE SCIENTIFIC OBJECTS
OF THE AUSTRIAN EXPEDITION,
AS WELL AS
IN GRATITUDE FOR THE HOSPITABLE RECEPTION SECURED TO THE NAVIGATORS
THROUGHOUT THE BRITISH DEPENDENCIES,
WHEREVER IT WAS THEIR GOOD FORTUNE TO CAST ANCHOR,
BY

THE AUTHOR OF THE FOLLOWING NARRATIVE.

LETTER.

LETTER CONTINUED.

PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

A member of the scientific corps attached to the Expedition, which, under the auspices of that enlightened friend of science and liberty, the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, was despatched on a voyage round the globe, the high honour has been conferred upon me of having entrusted to my care the publication of the Narrative of our Cruise.

In this not more difficult than enviable task, I have been most liberally assisted by my eminent fellow-labourers—the whole literary material collected during the voyage having been kindly placed at my disposal. The comprehensive journals and reports of the venerable Commander-in-Chief of the Expedition, Commodore Wullerstorff-Urbair, as well as the various memoranda of the other members of the Scientific Commission, contributed materially to the elucidation of my own general notes, as well as my observations upon special subjects, which latter chiefly referred to the Geography, Ethnography, and general Statistics of the various countries visited.

While preparing the details of our voyage for publication in my own language, the idea perpetually presented itself that a translation of this narrative into English might prove not unacceptable to the British public. And although fully aware that a voyage round the globe, in the course of which little more than the coasts were visited of the various countries we touched at, could not pretend to offer much new information to the greatest of maritime nations, it seemed, nevertheless, that it might interest a people so eager in the pursuit of knowledge as the English, to know the impression which has been made upon travellers of education by the Colonies and Settlements of Britain throughout the world.

The English language, moreover, being spoken more or less over the greater part of the earth's surface, geographically speaking, the author who addresses his readers in that tongue is sustained by the flattering conviction that he will be understood by the majority of the nations of the globe! For it is not alone the educated classes of all countries that seek to master a language which possesses such a grand—all but unrivalled literature! The political and commercial development which Great Britain enjoys under the benign influence of liberal institutions, has made English the medium of intercourse among almost all sea-faring nations; nay, even barbarous tribes find it their obvious interest to get a slight inkling at least of the language of a people whose civilizing and elevating energies they may not, it is true, understand, far less appreciate, but whose imposing power inspires them with awe, while they are more closely attached by the tie of material advantage.

The following narrative describes the most important occurrences and most lasting impressions of a voyage during which we traversed 51,686 miles, visited twenty-five different places, and spent 551 days at sea, and 298 at anchor or on shore.

As the purely scientific results of the Expedition will be published separately under the supervision of Commodore Wullerstorf and the other members of the scientific corps, I shall, in this place, only attempt to place before the reader a general outline of the countries and races visited during our cruise in different regions of the world.

In relating simply and concisely what was seen and experienced, I have endeavoured to avoid incurring the reproach, so frequently launched by English critics against German works of travel, of dryness and minute detail, such as render them distasteful to the English reader, and make it almost impossible to enlist his attention or evoke his sympathy.

If, as is specially the case with respect to natural science, many a doubtful point still remains undecided—if the ingenious "Suggestions" of the immortal Alexander von Humboldt (for the translation of which I feel particularly indebted to that profound scholar, my learned and esteemed friend Mr. Haidinger, whose name will be familiar to the scientific world in Great Britain), could not be acted upon to the extent and in the effectual manner each of us could have wished, the reason for such deficiencies will be found in the peculiar mission of the Expedition, and in the arrangement of our route, which was specially laid out with reference to the numerous and widely different objects, which it was specially intended to keep in view throughout the voyage.

Among the more prominent of these, may be specified the opportunity thus afforded for the practical instruction of our young and rapidly-increasing navy; the unfurling of the Imperial flag of Austria in those distant climes, where it had never before floated; the promulgation of commercial treaties; the aid afforded to science in exploration and investigation, as well as by the collection of those objects of Natural History, the acquisition of which is all but impossible to the solitary naturalist, owing to the expense and difficulty of transport,[1] and the establishment everywhere of friendly correspondence between our own scientific institutions and those in remote regions, I have considered it necessary to invite the attention of the British reading public to these circumstances, in order to make them more intimately cognisant of our various and manifold tasks, and thus make them the more readily disposed to overlook the deficiencies and discrepancies of this book, which I now respectfully commit to their perusal.

[1] Notwithstanding the short period at our disposal at each port, which concomitant necessity militates so much against the practical utility of a circumnavigation of the globe as compared with an expedition solely directed to one single centre of scientific observation, the collection of objects of Natural History made during the cruise are very extensive, and unusually rich in new or rare species. The zoological department alone embraces above 23,700 individuals of different kinds of animals: viz. 440 mammalia, 300 reptiles, 1500 birds, 1400 Amphibiæ, 1330 fish, 9000 insects, 8900 Molluscs and Crustaceæ, 300 birds' eggs and nests, besides numerous skeletons. The botanical collection consists of Herbaria, seeds of useful plants, special regard being had to those best adapted for the various climates of the respective Austrian provinces, drugs, specimens of dye-woods, and timber, fruits preserved in alcohol, &c. The Geological and Palæontological Museums of our country have likewise been enriched with various rare and valuable specimens, particularly in consequence of Dr. Hochstetter, the geologist of the Expedition, having prolonged his stay in New Zealand, where, at the special request of the Colonial Government, he explored the province of Auckland. The Ethnographical and Anthropological collection consists of above 550 objects, among which are 100 skulls, representing the craniology of almost all the races of the globe.

Before concluding, I beg leave to express my hearty thanks to all those who have contributed in such various ways to aid my humble efforts—to specify some were invidious, as in so doing I must wrong others. To each and all I return the most heartfelt gratitude.

May the indulgent reader peruse the following pages with an approving eye—may they afford him as much satisfaction and as much interest as I experienced in committing to paper the descriptions and impressions therein set forth, since in so doing, I, so to speak, made the delightful voyage for the second time, and in thought visited once more the different localities, from every one of which I, and my fellow-travellers, brought away none but the most friendly and agreeable recollections.

It inspires a German traveller with a peculiar and lofty feeling of pride and delight that he can look upon himself as belonging to a race, to whom seems to have been reserved the diffusion of a New Life over the earth—whose special mission it appears to be to make even the most primitive tribes in the remotest corner of the world acquainted with the blessings of Christian civilization, of political liberty, of intellectual culture, and, standing triumphant on the ruins of slavery and despotism, to proclaim to the great family of universal mankind, the advent of a new, a vernal era of Faith, Freedom, and Happiness!

Dr. Karl Scherzer.

Trieste, 18th March, 1861.

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

LETTER.
[Larger.]

Transcriber's Note: The text of the letter above, along with supplemental address information, are in the first volume of the German edition:

Sr. Hochwohlgeboren
dem Herrn Oberst von Wüllerstorf,
kais. kön. Linienschiffs-Capitän,
Befehlshaber S. Maj. Fregatte Novara,
Ritter hoher Orden &c. &c. &c.
in
Triest.
Hochwohlgeborener Herr,
Hochzuverehrender Herr Oberst, k. k. Linien-Schiffs-Capitän.

Ew. Hochwohlgeb. wollen, als Befehlshaber Sr. Maj. Fregatte Novara, die zu einem großen, edeln, das deutsche Vaterland und die Wissenschaft ehrenden Unternehmen durch kaiserliche Huld bestimmt ist, den Ausdruck meiner Verehrung nachsichtsvoll empfangen, indem ich, von der Zeit naher Abfahrt in halber Genesung bedrängt, es wage, Ihnen einige physikalische und geognostische Erinnerungen ganz gehorsamst vorzulegen, von denen Einiges vielleicht den ausgezeichneten Gelehrten, die die Expedition zu begleiten das Glück haben, von Nuzen sein kann. Ich würde dies Wenige nicht angeboten haben, wenn eine so genädige und liebenswürdige Aufforderung Sr. kaiserl. Hoheit des Herrn Erzherzogs Ferdinand Maximilian mich nicht dazu bestimmt hätte. Was ich Nautisches über Richtung und Temperatur der Meeresströhmungen, über die magnetischen Curven eingeflochten habe, muß ich besonders Ihrer Nachsicht empfehlen. Wenn man erinnert, scheint man belehren zu wollen, und von dieser Anmaßung bin ich weit entfernt. Da kein Entwurf, keine Abschrift meiner, wenigstens fleißigen, mit Zahlen überladenen Arbeit existirt, so wäre es vielleicht vorsichtig, sie von Jemand, der der behandelten Gegenstände kundig ist, abschreiben zu lassen. Meine gelehrten und mir lieben Freunde Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Dr. Karl Scherzer und Dr. Robert Lallemant, der mich bei seiner letzten Durchreise durch Berlin, um mir sein wichtiges Werk über das Gelbe Fieber in der Tropenzone zu geben, verfehlt hat, wage ich dringend Ihrem besonderen Schuze und Wohlwollen zu empfehlen.
Mit der innigsten Verehrung und den heißesten Wünschen für den Erfolg eines so schön vorbereiteten Unternehmens

Ew. Hochwohlgeboren

gehorsamster
Al. Humboldt.

Berlin, den 7. April
1857 Nachts.

PHYSICAL AND GEOGNOSTIC SUGGESTIONS,

BY

ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT.

In compliance with the gracious invitation which H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian was pleased to address to me from Trieste (December 12th, 1856), and as yet barely recovered from an indisposition, I jot down these hasty notes, without presuming to give definite instructions, such as those I drew up, conjointly with M. Arago, for the guidance of the French expeditions, or for Lord Minto, then First Lord of the Admiralty, on the occasion of the Antarctic Voyage of Discovery of Sir James Ross (1840-43). The following pages consist simply of hints which may possibly prove serviceable to the distinguished and highly informed gentlemen, who have the good fortune to sail on board the Imperial Frigate, Novara, under the command of Commodore von Wüllerstorf. With two of these savans, Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter and Dr. Karl Scherzer, I have had the pleasure, here in Berlin, to agree verbally on various subjects.

As I do not exactly know what course it is intended the Novara shall follow in navigating the Atlantic, nor in what meridian it is proposed to cross the Equator, (in conformity with the sound and useful directions of my friend Lieut. Maury, of Washington), on her voyage to Rio de Janeiro, nor how near she shall keep to Cape San Roque and Fernando de Noronha, I must content myself with inviting the attention of the voyagers in a general way to the temperature of the sea, as also to the variations and aberrations of the magnetic curves, and their currents.

A lower degree of temperature is usually observed W. of the Canaries, and Cape Verde Islands, commencing with the Salvages, the thermometer indicating as low as 72°·7 Fahr. This has been already ascertained by Mr. Charles Deville, in his chart of temperature on the voyage "aux Antilles, à Ténériffe et à Fogo." I consider this diminution of temperature results from the North Guinea current, bringing with it cold water from the north southwards as far as the Bight of Biafra and the River Gaboon, at which point it is encountered by an opposite current flowing northwards along the south-western coast of Africa from Loando and Congo.

In 1825, Captain Duperrey had accurately laid down the point of intersection of the magnetic, with the terrestrial equator. In 1837, we learned from Sabine's investigations of magnetic inclination near the Island of St. Thomas (on the Equator, adjoining the above portion of the coast of Africa), that this point of intersection had already shifted four degrees to the westward. A period of twenty years having elapsed since Sabine's expedition for determining observations with the pendulum, it would be most desirable that fresh investigations should be made in that neighbourhood, for the purpose of verifying the secular changes of all magnetic curves, especially with regard to their variation. In 1840, the line of no declination in America began 9° 30′ E. of South Georgia, whence it ran to the S.E. coast of Brazil, near Cape Frio, thus traversing the mainland of South America only between the latter point and the parallel of 0° 36′ S., when it leaves the continent a little to the east of Gran Parà, near Cape Tigioca, cutting the terrestrial equator again, but in 50° 6′ W. According to Bache's Map of Equal Magnetic Declination, it reaches the coast of North America near Cape Fear, to the south-west of Cape Lookout. This line, along which the magnetic declination is nil, extends to a point in Lake Erie, 2° 40′ W. of Toronto, where the declination is already 1° 27′ W.[2]

[2] Wherever, in this paper, it is not precisely expressed to the contrary, the scale of the Centigrade Thermometer, the longitude from the Meridian of Paris, the French foot (pied du roi=12·79 inches English), and the geographical mile, 15 to a degree of the Equator, measuring 3807 "toises," are meant.

It is evident from the observations of Captains Beechey and Findley, and still more particularly from those of the French Captain Kerhallet, that the remarkable subdivision of the main equinoctial current, flowing from east to west into two branches, one directed to the N.W., the other to the S.S.W., commences at a considerable distance from the Capes of St. Roque and St. Augustin. This bifurcation has always, and with good reason, been ascribed to the protruding convexity of the South American continent at these two promontories. It would be an important step gained in verifying the theory of currents, could the precise distance be ascertained by chronometer. It is apparently like an "actio in distans," probably a phenomenon of what is known as "packing." As the frigate, on leaving Rio de Janeiro is to make for the Cape of Good Hope, the opportunity will present, should she steer sufficiently southerly, for many interesting observations with respect to the connecting current W.N.W. and E.S.E. which encounters that from Madagascar and Mozambique, close to the Cape, more especially with regard to the temperature of the sea.

If the frigate is intended to approach the small cluster of islands of Fernando de Noronha, E. of Pernambuco (Lat. 3° 50′ S.), I would recommend to that excellent geognostic, Dr. Hochstetter, the hornblendic phonolithe rock found there, far from a volcanic crater, but with trachytic dykes and basaltic amygdaloid. The flat little island of St. Paul (Peñedo de San Pedro), 1° N. Lat., singular to say, is not volcanic at all, containing, like the Malouin or Falkland Islands, slaty green-stone passing into serpentine.

Should the frigate alter her course and cross the Equator more to the eastward, without touching at Rio de Janeiro, she might possibly fall in with the Marine Volcanic region, (Lat. 0° 20′ S., Long. 22° W.), which has quite lately become famous again by the U. S. Expedition of the Brig Dolphin (1854), commanded by Lieutenant Lee. On 19th May, 1806, columns of black smoke were seen issuing from the sea by Krusenstern, and volcanic ashes were gathered, after a singular bubbling of the sea from 1748 to 1836, according to careful investigations by Daussy.

As the frigate is commissioned to visit Ceylon and the Nicobar Islands, she cannot sail direct from the Cape to Australia; and the hope must therefore be abandoned of her visiting the small basaltic islands, known as Prince Edward's (47° 2′ S., 38° E.), and Possession (46° 28′ S., 47° 30′ E.), belonging to the Crozet's Group, or the two islands, long confounded with each other, of Amsterdam (Lat. 37° 48′ S.) and St. Paul (Lat. 38° 38′ S.) The latter island, the more southerly of the two, (a very characteristic drawing of which was given by Willem de Vlaming so far back as 1696), is supposed to be volcanic, not only by its form, which will at once remind the geologist of Santorin, Barren Island, and Deception Island, (one of the New Shetland group), but also in consequence of the eruption of steam, and the flames occasionally observed there.

As for Amsterdam, which consists of a single densely-wooded mountain, the puzzle remains for solution as to how, during the expedition of D'Entrecasteaux in 1792, the whole island seemed, during two entire days, enveloped in smoke; whereas, on landing there, the naturalists of that expedition were satisfied that the mountain was not an active volcano, and that the columns of steam issued out of the ground near the shore! As yet, the phenomenon remains entirely unexplained.

If we examine any map of the Indian Ocean, we may trace the continuation of the Sunda group from Sumatra, N.W., through the Nicobar, and Great and Little Andaman Islands, and thence through the volcanoes of Barren Island, Narcondam and Cheduba, nearly parallel with the coasts of Malacca and Tenasserim, all on the eastern part of the Bay of Bengal. The minor volcanoes just enumerated will present valuable opportunities of geological enquiry.

Along the coasts of Orissa and Coromandel, the western portion of the Bay of Bengal is quite free of islands, Ceylon, like Madagascar presenting rather the type of a continent.

Off the W. coast of the peninsula of India, (that is opposite the Neilgherrie hills, and the coast of Canara and Malabar), there is a series of three archipelagoes, extending from 14° N. to 8° S., viz., the Laccadives, the Maldives, and the Chagos, which appears, as it were, continued through the banks of Sahia di Malha, and Cargados Carajos, to the volcanic group of the Mascarenhas and Madagascar. As the first-named archipelagoes, so far as is yet known, consist solely of coral, and are, consequently, true "atolls," or reef-lagoons, the bottom of the ocean should be examined over a large extent, adopting the ingenious hypothesis of Darwin, that it is to be considered as an area of subsidence, rather than an elevated region.

It would also be a matter of great importance to get observations respecting terrestrial magnetism, particularly so as to define the position of a given segment of the magnetic equator. Capt. Elliott, as the result of his comprehensive studies, (1846-49), ascertained that the magnetic equator passes through the north end of Borneo, and thence nearly due W. to the northern extremity of Ceylon. In this region the curve of minimum intensity is nearly parallel to the magnetic equator, which intersects the Continent of Africa near Cape Guardafui—according to Rochet d'Héricourt, in lat. 10° 7′ N., long. 38° 5′. E. Between this point and the Bight of Biafra nothing is known.

The South Asiatic islands comprise Formosa, the Philippines, the Sunda group, and the Moluccas. The great and little Sunda Islands and the Moluccas embrace 109 volcanoes, with fiery eruptions, and 10 what are called mud-volcanoes. This is not a mere estimate, but is the result of an enumeration by Junghuhn, who, within the last year (1856), has returned to Java, and thoroughly equipped by M. Pahud, Governor-General of the Indian Netherlands, will be of great assistance to the Imperial Expedition.

An exact mineralogical determination of the volcanic rocks (trachytes) is unfortunately wanting everywhere.

The most active volcano of Sumatra is the Gunung Merapi (8980 feet), which must not be confounded with a volcano in Java, of the same name. That of Sumatra was ascended by Dr. L. Horner, and Dr. Korthals in 1834. We may pronounce Indrapura (11,500 feet, but this measurement is very uncertain), and Gunung Pasoman (9010 feet), the Ophir of our maps, to be utterly unknown geologically. The highest of the Java volcanoes is Gunung Semeru (11,480 feet), ascended by Junghuhn in 1844, 1220 feet higher than the Etna. The largest craters of the 45 which are disposed in a line along the shores of Java, are Gunung Tengger, and Gunung Raou. Dr. Junghuhn has recently given the outlines of each separate volcano in his splendid topographical and geological map of Java, in four sheets, published in 1856, which does great credit to the Dutch Government.

The following subjects are worthy of special attention while the frigate is at Java.

1. The curious phenomenon of the ribbed surface. (Vide Junghuhn, Java, Part II., p. 608.)

2. The disposition, as yet unaccounted for, of a series of regularly-shaped hills, formed by the mud-streams ejected in the year 1822 by the volcano of Gunung Galungung. (Vide ut suprà, pp. 127-731.)

3. The ejection of water by the Gunung Idjen, on 21st January, 1817, (pp. 707, and 717-121).

4. The erroneousness of the assertion that the volcanoes of the Island of Java do not emit streams of real lava.

It must be admitted that the mighty Javanese volcano, Gunung Merapi, already alluded to, has not, within the historic period, presented any coherent compact streams of lava, but mere fragments and boulders; although in 1837, lines of fire were seen running uninterruptedly from the top down the sides of the cones in eruption. But each of the three volcanoes, Tengger, Idjen, and Slamat, present examples of black lava currents, descending as far as the tertiary strata.

Streams of stone-boulders, red-hot, similar to those of the Cotopaxi, but scarcely touching each other, flowed from Gunung Lamorgan on 6th July, 1838.

No active volcano is known in the island of Borneo. The highest mountain of the whole island, perhaps of the whole insular world of Southern Asia, is the Hina Baïlu (12,850 feet?) on the northern point of Borneo. It is as yet unexplored. According to Dr. Lewis Horner, son of the astronomer of the Krusenstern expedition, there occur among the syenite and serpentine mountain range of Rathus, on the S.E. of the island, deposits yielding gold (which has even been worked by diggings), diamonds, platinum, iridium, and osmium,—presenting, in fact, a similar association to those of the Ural mountains. No mention is made of palladium. Rajah (now Sir James) Brooke describes in the province of Sarawak in Borneo, a low hill, Gunung Api ("hill of fire" in Malay), the slags of which attest former volcanic activity. A visit to Borneo would be of very great service.

There are eleven volcanoes in Celebes, and six in Flores, all active.

It is still uncertain whether the conical mountain Wawari, or Atiti, which is more generally known as the volcano of the island of Amboyna, ever poured out anything except hot mud (1674), or whether it should be merely classed as a solfatara. The main group of the South Asiatic Islands is connected through the Moluccas and the Philippines with the Papua and Pellew islands, and the Caroline Archipelago of the South Sea.

The most important geological fact to be remarked with reference to the island of Formosa, abounding in mineral coals, is the break in the line of direction of the open vents, when, instead of N.E. to S.W., the central line follows the meridian line, which it pursues nearly as far as 6° S., passing through Formosa and the Philippine Islands (Luzon and Mindanao), respecting which deviation nothing certain is known, and in which region every mountain of conical shape, or outline is invariably set down as a volcano, even though there should be no indications of a crater. The Sooloo Archipelago forms the connecting link between the islands of Borneo and Mindanao, the long, narrow island of Palawan, constituting that between Borneo and Mindoro.

The Island of Yesso, separated from that of Niphon by the Straits of Sangar, or Tsugar, and from the islands of Krafto (Saghalien) and Tschoka, or Tarakai, by the Straits of La Pérouse, connects, through its North Eastern Cape, with the archipelago of the Kuriles. From Broughton's Southern Vulcan Bay up to its northernmost point, Yesso is traversed by an uninterrupted range of volcanoes—a fact the more worthy of being recorded, as in the expedition of La Pérouse there were found red porous lavas, as well as wide areas, covered with slags, in the Baie des Castries, in the narrow island of Krafto (Saghalien), which is, as it were, merely a continuation of Yesso. In our own day these regions command a higher interest, from a political point of view, more especially since Russia, dissatisfied with the situation of Okhotsk, at the sanded mouth of the Amoor, was anxious, after the destruction of Petropaulowski, on the coast of Kamtschatka, to obtain, on the S.E. coast, a harbour suitable for a military station.

Among the three islands which form the main portion of the Japanese Empire, six volcanoes are known to have had eruptions in the historic period. The volcano, Fusi Jama, in Niphon, province of Suruga (Lat. 35° 18′ N., Long. 136° 15′ E., altitude 11,675 feet), is said to have risen out of the plain 286 years before the Christian era. Its last eruption was in 1707. The volcano, Asama Jama, in the district of Saku, between the meridians of the two capitals, Miaco and Jeddo, was last in eruption in 1783. On the island of Kiusiu, adjoining the peninsula of Corea, four volcanoes are situated, from one of which, called Wanzen, there was a most destructive eruption in 1793.

The beautiful work of Commodore Perry, U.S.N., detailing his mission to Japan, on the part of the United States Government, in 1852, containing excellent photographs of races, as also drawings by the Berlin artist, Wilhelm Heine, does not, as yet, comprise the scientific results of that expedition.

Proceeding northwards, the volcanoes are more densely crowded, and are found arranged in series. Of the fifty-four which I enumerated as still in activity among the islands of Eastern Asia, there are thirty-four on the Aleutian, and ten on the Kurile Islands. The Peninsula of Kamtschatka contains nine volcanoes, which have been in activity within the historic period. Lying under the 54th and 60th degrees of northern latitude, we see a long strip of sea-bottom between two continents undergoing a perpetual process of destruction and re-arrangement.

The South Sea, the superficial extent of which is one-sixth greater than that of the entire solid crust of our planet, actually presents a smaller number of active volcanoes, less vents for communication between the centre of the earth and its atmospheric envelope, than the single Island of Java! Out of 40 volcanic cones, including those which are extinct, only 26 have been seen in eruption during the historic period. They are not scattered at random, but, on the contrary, as was pointed out by Mr. James Dana, the ingenious geologist of the great United States Exploring Expedition, under the command of Capt. Wilkes (1838-42), they have been thrown up, at widely extending clefts, communicating by submarine mountain systems. They are arranged in groups and distinct regions, analogous to the mountain chains of Central Asia and Armenia (in the district of the Caucasus), and belong to two quite distinct systems, one running S.E. to N.W., the other S.S.W. to N.N.E.

In the Hawaiian Archipelago (or Sandwich Island group), we find Mauna Loa, according to Wilkes, 12,900 feet in height, which does not present any cone of volcanic scoriæ (resembling, in this particular, the volcanoes of the Eifel), but has emitted streams of lava. The lava basin of Killauea, 13,000 feet in its greatest, by 4800 in its smallest diameter, is not a solfatara, but a true lateral vent on the flank of the powerful Mauna Loa itself, exactly resembling the less elevated sheet of lava of Arak. Mauna Kea is 180 feet higher than Mauna Loa, but is extinct. Tafoa and Amangura, in the Tonga group, are still in eruption, the last discharge of lava having occurred in July, 1847. The volcano of Tanna was in full eruption during Capt. Cook's Voyage of Discovery in 1774, as was also the volcano of Ambrym, west of Malicollo in the archipelago of the New Hebrides. At the south point of New Caledonia, lies Matthew's Rock, a small smoking rocky island. The volcano of Santa Cruz, N.N.W. of Tina Kora, with periodical eruptions occasionally occurring at intervals of 10 minutes, had been already noticed as a volcano by Mendana, so far back as 1595. In the Salomon Archipelago, there is found the volcano of Sesarga, while others are said to be in full activity in the Marianas or Ladrones, just like those of Guguan, Pagon, and El Volcan Grande de Asuncion, which appear to have broken forth along a line that follows the meridian. In New Britannia, three conical mountains were observed vomiting streams of lava, by Tasman, Carteret, and Labillardière. There are two volcanoes in full activity on the north-east coast of New Guinea, opposite Admiralty Islands, which themselves are so rich in obsidian. In New Zealand, numerous regions abound in basaltic and trachytic rocks. Of active volcanoes there are Puhia-i-Wakati (the volcano of White Island), and the lofty cone of Tongariro (5816 feet). To the absence of centres of volcanic agency in New Caledonia, where sedimentary formations and seams of coal have recently been discovered, is ascribed the vast development of coral reefs. Dana was the first to ascend the Peak of Tafua, in the Island of Upolu, one of the Samoa group, not to be confounded with the still active volcano of Tafoa, south of Amangura, in the Tonga Archipelago. Dana found in it a crater overgrown with thick forest. So, too, on the isolated Vaihu or Easter Island group, there is found a range of conical mountains with craters, but inactive.

Of the volcanic groups of the South Sea, the most violent is the farthest east, adjoining the shores of the New World, viz., the archipelago of the Gallipagos, which consists of five considerable islands, very admirably described by Darwin. There are streams of lava down to the very shore of the sea, but no pumice. Some of the trachytic lavas are said to abound with crystals of albite. It is important to examine whether or not this is oligoclase, as on Teneriffe, Popocatepetl, and Chimborazo; or labradorite, as on Etna and Stromboli. Palagonite, exactly similar to that of Iceland or in Italy, was discovered by Bunsen in the specimens of tufa from Chatham Island, one of the Gallipagos.

New Holland does not show any signs of recent volcanic activity, except at its most southern point (Australia Felix), at the foot of the Grampian Mountains. N.W. from Port Philip, as also towards the Murray River, there are numbers of volcanic cones and sheets or flows of lava.

It would be of great interest and utility to observe the relative inclinations of the Magnetic and the Geographical Equators, by means of the dip of the magnetic needle, though this will be rendered more difficult, from the fact of the ship's course being easterly, that is, contrary, to the Equinoctial current. As regards the low temperature of the current, which I discovered in 1802, running up from 40° S. to the Gallipagos along the coast of South America, and then turning westward, it would be highly important to investigate whether in the eastern part of the South Sea in 7° N. and between 117° and 140° W., there really exists in every season a counter current from west to east. But I need not enlarge upon this topic to such attentive navigators.

The line of no inclination was crossed six times by Duperrey between 1822 and 1825. When I first discovered, near Truxillo, the low temperature of the cold Peruvian current, it was 12°·8 Réaumur (60°·8 Fahr.). The temperature observed in the course of twenty years by Mr. Dirckinck von Holmfeld, in the neighbourhood of Callao, expressed in degrees of Réaumur, were as follows:—

The temperature of the sea I found to be 22° Réaumur (81°·5 Fah.) north of Cape Blanco, when on my way from Callao de Lima, at which point the cold current diverged towards the Gallipagos.

Between the Gulfs of Guayaquil and Panama, north-east of the cold current, the temperature of the sea during the month of April rose as high as 24°·5, (87°·12 Fahr.). Within the range of the current, Mr. Dirckinck had carried on his observations in compliance with my instructions, by means of thermometers that had been compared by Arago. Everywhere in the current, in December 1824, he found from 16° to 18° (68° to 72°·5 Fahr.); between Quilca and Callao, in January, 1825, from 18° to 19° (72°·5 to 74°·75 Fahr.); between Chorillos, near Lima (Lat. 12° 39′ S.) and Valparaiso, in August, 1825, from 13°·8 to 10°·5 (63°·05 to 55°·62 Fahr.); between Chorillos and San Carlos de Chiloe, in June, 1825, from 18°·8 to 9°·2 (74°·3 to 52°·7).

In sailing from the Sandwich Islands to the west coast of America, the Imperial Expedition will have to choose between the Ports of San Francisco or Acapulco. The first choice would be of great mineralogical advantage for those regions of the United States, lying North of the river Gila.[3] Parallel with the chain of the Rocky Mountains, which, according to Marcou, contains up to the present day several volcanoes in full activity in its northern part (Lat. 46° 12′ N.), run single, and at certain points double ranges of coast chains from San Diego to Monterey, from 32° 15′ N. to 46° 45′ N. They begin with the coast range specially so-called, which is a continuation of the high ridge of the Peninsula of Lower or Old California; after which, farther to the North, there follow in succession, first the Sierra Nevada di Alta California, between 36° and 38° N. the lofty Shasty mountains, and the Cascade Range, nearly twenty six miles distant from the littoral, including many high and active volcanoes, and extending far beyond Fuca Straits. The following are still in eruption:—Mount St. Elias (46° 2′ N.); Mount Regnier, or Rainier, (46° 46′); and Mount Baker, (48° 48′.) These three active cones would be most conveniently visited by the geologist of the expedition from San Francisco, as would likewise the whole Cascade Range. We have as yet no certain intelligence as to the geology of the entire longitudinal auriferous valley of the Sacramento River, (where a trachytic crater, in a state of disintegration, is known as the Butt of Sacramento). Does the auriferous quartz occur in veins, and are these still in situ, or are they broken up? What description of rock is traversed by these veins? Does the wash-gold here contain occasionally, as in the Ural Mountains, fragments of vein-stones with isolated cavities, in which are found impressions of leaves and membranes, clearly proving that they have not been rolled, or transported by water, any great distance to the spot they now occupy? Have these been found, alongside of gold, diamonds, platinum, osmium, iridium, or mercury?

[3] The Gila falls into the Colorado about forty miles above the embouchure of the latter into the head of the Gulf of California.

Should the frigate steer for Acapulco, it may be assumed that there exists an intention to cross the Continent to Mexico and Vera Cruz, from the volcano of Colima (1877 toises) as it were, along the parallel of the range of volcanoes, and greatest heights rising in detached groups between the two seas, about the parallel of 19° N. New astronomical observations are greatly needed for determining the position of the volcanoes of Colima and Jorullo (667 toises). The volcano of Colima, with its twin peaks de fuego and de nieve, should be carefully examined, as also the volcano of Jorullo, with the fragments of granite enclosed in its lava; the Nevado de Toluca (2372 toises), Popocatepetl (2772 toises), Itztaccihuatl (2456 toises), Cofre de Perote (2098 toises), and the volcano of Tuxtla (18° 28′ N.), on the eastern slope of the Sierra St. Martin, from which a column of flame shot up with great violence on 2nd March, 1793, a fair specimen of what the Spaniards term Malpays, the Sicilians Sciarra viva. The face of the country is covered over with boulders of lava, at San Nicolas de los Ranchos, at the foot of Popocatepetl, adjoining the city of Puebla de los Angeles, after which, on the road from Puebla to Vera Cruz, will be observed two narrow strips of boulders of cooled basaltic lava, rich in olivine. Similar examples will be found at Parage de Carros, near Tochtilacuaja and Loma de Tablas, between Cancas and the Casas de la Hoja. The mere ascension of volcanic cones is geologically of far less importance, than the bringing away numerous specimens, carefully selected, of various trachytic rocks, which, by their oryctognostical composition, are characteristic of each volcano. I would nevertheless recommend that the Pico del Fraile of the Toluca volcano (2372 toises) should be ascended, proper caution being used. From this very sharp peak, I brought away thin plates of trachyte perforated by lightning, and within the holes of a melted glassy surface, resembling those brought from Little Ararat. Both for the miner and geologist, an interesting and useful visit might be paid to the rich mines of Guanaxuato and the Mines de la Biscaina and Regla, on the road from Mexico to Real del Monte, so as to observe the close connection subsisting between the richer silver ores, occurring in trachytic porphyry without quartz, but with felspar, (glassy felspar?), and the thoroughly volcanic Cerro del Jakal, abounding in obsidian, and the Cerro de las Navajas (Razor Range), which remind one of the environs of Schemnitz, with the sole exception, that the trachytes "porphyres meulières" of Beudant, are wanting here.

As it is highly desirable that considerable time should be devoted to the volcanoes of Quito, Peru, and Chili, it appears uncertain whether the course of the frigate, on leaving Acalpulco, will be shaped direct for Guayaquil, thus reversing the route taken by myself, or whether she will not touch at some of the central American ports—Realejo or Sonsonate. The crowded series of volcanoes in Central America, of which no less than eighteen, conical or dome-shaped, may be considered as still in active eruption, would yield a rich harvest of facts of all kinds in elucidation of the theory of volcanic action, such as have never hitherto been sufficiently taken advantage of. We are still in need of the mineralogical determination of the rocks, while the form and situation of the mountain masses have been well described by Squier, Oersted, and other modern travellers. The greater number, indeed, of the eruptions of scoriæ and slag were unaccompanied by streams of lava, as, for example, those of Mount Isalco, abounding in ammonia. But recently eye-witnesses have furnished us with quite different accounts regarding these eruptions, in the case of several volcanoes—as the Nindiri (a twin volcano with that called Massaya), on which Dr. Scherzer has lately shed much light; the Volcano el Nuevo, erroneously called Volcano de las Pilas, that of Coseguina, situated on the Great Bay of Fonseca, and that of San Miguel de Bosotlan, from which there flowed an extensive stream of lava in July 1844. It would be most tempting to pass by land from Mexico southwards to Oaxaca, and thence to the Isthmus of Guasacualco or Tehuantepec, and Chiapas, so as to rejoin the frigate at Realejo or Sonsonate. Facts might be obtained, in such a journey, of great value in determining the dependence of geological phenomena on each other; but it is to be feared it would be attended with too much fatigue and loss of time. For similar reasons, it cannot be proposed that the scientific gentlemen attached to the Expedition, should leave the frigate for three or four months, when they reach Central America, in order to cross by rail the Isthmus of Panama, with the object of examining the Volcancitos of Turbaco and Gabra Zamba, both active, and thence ascend the Rio Magdalena from Carthagena de las Indias, as far as Honda, whence they could proceed by Bogotà and Popayan to Quitó.

It will be also unavoidable to forego the examination of the sedimentary rocks, rich in fossils, between Honda, Bogotà and Ibagues, the Mastodon fields (Campos del Gigante), and the Salto de Tegumidama on the plateau of Bogotà, the wax palm (Ceroxylon Andicola), and the Azufrales of the Passo de Quindiu, the volcanoes of Tolima, measured by myself and ascended by Boussingault, and of Paramo de Ruiz (4° 15′ N.), as also the two volcanoes of Popayan, the Puracé and the much more interesting but now extinct Sotará. As a middle course, I may suggest a disembarkation, not exactly at Guayaquil, but on the gold and platinum coast of the Choco, near San Buenaventura, so as to proceed thence to Popayan, and afterwards return to the volcanoes of the province of Pasto, which are highly important, and so on to Quitó, by way of Guachucal, Tulcan, and Villa de Ibarra, rejoining the frigate only at Guayaquil.

I believe, however, it would be more advisable to select Quitó as the starting-point, whence to examine the important elevated volcanic region De los Pastos (between 2° 20′ and 0° 56′ N.), containing the volcano of the town of Pasto, the volcanoes of Tuguerres, Chiles and Cumbal, and the Azufral de Pasto, and not to land at any port of the Choco coast, not even from the Bahia de Cupica, which for half a century I have recommended in vain on account of its vicinity to the Rio Naipi, one of the tributaries of the Atrato. In drawing up a list of names of the volcanoes of the renowned lofty plateau of Quitó, I may include, Imbaburu, Cotocachi, Rucu, Pichincha, Antisana, the much-disputed question of the stony walls like streams of lava, on the east slope of Tana Volcan, and Reventazon de Ansango; Cotopaxi, with its strange inexplicable quarries of pumice, of Guapecho and Zumbalica, in the neighbourhood of Llactacunga and San Felipe, the pumice containing oligoclase, not glassy felspar, deposited in strata, like any rock in situ for a considerable distance on all sides of Cotopaxi; Tunguragua (mica slate), studded with garnets, and beds of granite, which dip under the former, and have themselves been pierced by the trachytes of Tungurahua at Rio Puela and the Hacienda de Ganace; the hills of Moya, near the village of Pelilco, cast up in the celebrated earthquake of 7th February, 1797, and still in a state of activity; the Chimborazo, which M. Jules Rémy, accompanied by an Englishman named Princkley, was in the belief they had ascended, on the 3rd of November, 1856, to the very summit, "mais sans s'en douter." Poggendorff, (Vol. X. p. 480), has clearly demonstrated that the boiling point given by Rémy for the summit, would not give 6544 mètres (little different from my own trigonometrical admeasurement of 6530 mètres), but fully 7328 mètres. As I distrust my own half-barometical measurements, I have vainly implored travellers, these fifty years past, to have a new series of trigonometrical observations made of the summit of Chimborazo. The merit, then, of settling this moot point, it also remains for the members of the Novara Expedition to obtain.

It would be important to examine the Sangay (16,068 feet)—which, like Stromboli, is in constant activity, yet without any traces of lava-streams—on account of the grains of quartz discovered by Wisse in the trachytic boulders ejected by the volcano, which is of such rare occurrence in the trachytes out of Hungary; and also on account of the close vicinity of beds of granite and gneiss, which are broken through by the Sangay trachyte, forming an island, as it were, of not hardly two miles in breadth. Still more deserving of attention is the extinct volcano El Altar de los Collanes (Capac Urcù) a sketch of which I presented in the atlas published in my "Kleine Schriften" (Plate V. p. 461), formerly higher than Chimborazo, and still (?) 16,380 feet. Not a single specimen of its trachyte has ever been deposited in a European museum. The Altar itself is readily accessible from Riobamba Nuevo. In its vicinity may also be seen mica slate and gneiss, cropping out at the Paramo del Hatillo near Guamote, and Teocaxas, which are so seldom fallen in with in the highlands of Quitó. Tradition relates that gold-mines were worked here during the days of the Incas, in the neighbourhood of volcanic trachytes. From the Altar the geologist might proceed, by way of San Luis, (Query, whether the primitive clay-slate found here be of the Silurian formation?) and Guamote, to Paramo del Assuay (2428 toises), and Cuenca, as far as Atausca (2° 13′ S.), where an immense mass of sulphur, lying in a quartz seam is worked, forming a bed in the mica slate. Of what rock does the easily accessible Cayambe Urcù (18,170 feet) consist, crossing the Equator, S.E. of Otavalo? En route from Quitó to Cayambe, the rich deposits of obsidian near Quinche should also be inspected, which furnished the large mirrors to the Incas, and farther to the north of which are the volcanoes of Los Pastos, which form a separate system by themselves.

For examining the rocks and exploring the volcanoes of Southern Peru and Bolivia—respecting which see the last edition of Pentland's Maps, not those published between 1830 and 1848, in which the height of Sorata was indicated at 3949 toises (25,257 feet), and Illimani at 3753 toises (24,004), and accordingly both as much more lofty than Chimborazo, which is 3350 toises (21,426 feet)—the best starting-point would be the port of Arica, which may be reached, sailing the whole distance against the cold current, from Guayaquil, after a short stay at Callao de Lima. Of the volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia only three are now active.

(a.) The volcano of Arequipa, three miles N.E. of the town of the same name, which, according to Pentland and Rivero, is situated about 7366 feet above the level of the sea. The measurements of M. Dolley, of the French navy, which were published under my superintendence, give the summit of the volcano as 10,348 feet above the town of Arequipa, so that its total elevation above the sea would be 17,714 feet. In the table of heights for Mrs. Somerville's "Physical Geography," Mr. Pentland speaks of the summit as being 20,320 English feet in height, or 19,065 Paris feet, closely approximating to the old trigonometrical measurement (19,080 feet) given by Thaddeus Haenke, a Bohemian, who accompanied the expedition of Malaspina, in 1769. What a deplorable state for the science of hypsometry to be in! which the Novara ought to put an end to. Samuel Anzon, a North American, in 1811, and Dr. Weddell, in 1847, have ascended the volcano of Arequipa.

(b.) Sahama (18° 7' S.), according to Pentland's new map of 1848, is 871 feet higher than Chimborazo (which he gives as 20,970 feet), and is still active. The true heights of Illimani and Sorata, ascertained since 1848, are, instead of 3949 and 3753 respectively, only 3329 toises (21,266 English feet), and 3307 toises (21,145 English feet).

(c.) Volcano Gualatieri, in the Bolivian province of Carangas (18° 25′ S.), height 20,604 feet.

The southern group of South American volcanoes, that, of Chili, presents the largest number of active fire-mountains—only second, indeed, to that of Central America, there being from eleven to thirteen. In order to increase the geological exploration of this region which has been so well prepared by the memorable expedition under Captain Fitzroy, in the ships Adventure and Beagle, the excellent generalizing theories of Mr. Darwin, and the naval astronomical expedition of Mr. Gilliss, for 1849-51, the Novara will probably land at Valparaiso. A great desideratum between Coquimbo and Valparaiso is an exact measurement of—

A. The volcano of Aconcagua (32° 39′ S.). Its height has been stated, in 1835, by Captain Fitzroy, as 21,767 feet, Pentland's correction assigning 22,431 feet; while Captain Kellet, of the frigate Herald, gives it as 21,584 feet. Miers and Darwin are both of opinion that the Aconcagua is still in activity, which is denied by Pentland and Gilliss. The most recent measurement of Aconcagua—that by Pissis in 1854 (see Gilliss, Vol. I. p. 63)—makes the height 20,924 feet. M. Pissis has published, in the "Anales de la Universidad de Chili," for 1852, the geodetical elements of his survey, which is based upon eight triangles. Aconcagua being probably the highest mountain in the New World, a new measurement is eminently desirable. Neither Dhawalagiri, with his 4930 toises, nor Kintsinjunga, measured by Colonel Waugh, with his 4406 toises, are any longer considered the highest mountains in the Himalaya range, but the Deodunga (Mount Everest), which is 29,003 English feet, equal to 27,212 Paris feet, or 4535 toises.

B. The volcano Maipu (34° 17′ S., height 16,572 feet), ascended by Meyen. The trachytic rock on the summit has broken through the Jurassic strata, in which Leopold von Buch has ascertained, from heights of 9000 feet, the existence of Exogyra couloni, Trigonia costata, and Ammonites biplex. This volcano has no streams of lava, but only eruptions of volcanic slags. It would be most desirable that Dr. Hochstetter should examine this remarkable protrusion of dislocated strata.

C. The volcano Antuco (37° 7′ S.), the geology of which was described by Pöppig, is a lofty basaltic crater, having a trachytic cone rising up in its centre to an elevation of 8672 feet. It was observed in full activity by Domeyko in 1845. Gilliss gives an account of an eruption in 1853. According to Domeyko, a fresh-burning cone was thrown up on the 25th of November, 1847, which remained in activity for a whole year. Molina considers the Nevada Descabezado (35° 1′ S.), ascended by Domeyko, to be the highest mountain in Chili; but its height is estimated by Gilliss at only 12,300 feet. The most southerly volcanoes are the still active Corcovado (43° 12′ S.), 7046 feet; Yanteles (43° 29′ S.), 7534 feet; and the Volcan de San Clemente, opposite the granite formation on the peninsula of Tres Montes. Still further south, in 51° 41′ S., another, the Volcan de los Gigantes, is laid down on the old maps of South America, by La Cruz Olmedella, as opposite the archipelago of La Madre de Dios.

Should the Novara return to Europe through the Straits of Maghellanes, it would be very desirable the members of the Expedition should visit the locality from which Prince Paul of Würtemberg, after long zoological travels through North America, has, within the last year, brought back to Germany a very large collection of specimens.

Altogether, I calculate the number of active volcanoes on the surface of the earth to be upwards of 225—one-third of which, or 75, are upon the various continents, and the remainder upon the insular world. The Western Continent has 53 active volcanoes—of which, North-Western America, north of the river Gila, has 5; Mexico, 4; Central America, 18; South America about 26. Viewing the globe as a whole, there presents itself an extensive oblique region in which volcanoes most abound, stretching from S.E. to N.W. in the more westerly part of the Pacific, between 75° W. and 125° E. of Paris, and between 47° S. and 66° N. In this region, the fused elements of the interior of our earth may be said to be most permanently in communication with the atmosphere.

The greatest attention should be paid, with the view of improving them, to the sections and maps of Chili, contained in the work, "Buenos Ayres and the Provinces of Rio de la Plata," published in 1852 by Sir Woodbine Parish, and still more so, to that entitled "Map of the Republic of Chili, compiled from the Surveys of Gilliss, Pissis, Allen, Campbell, and Claude Gay, between 23° and 44° S., as contained in Gilliss' 'United States Astronomical Expedition, 1847-52 Washington, 1855.'"

The chief object to be aimed at by the Novara, with respect to scientific enquiry, seems to me to be the formation of a collection in the Geological Institute of Vienna, in comparison to which all the collections which at present aspire to be considered rich in volcanic specimens, (such as those of Berlin, Paris and London), should appear to be insignificant. In all periods of history, travellers are only the representatives of the state of knowledge of their own time, and consequently, collections always present the readiest means of promulgating new discoveries by oryctognostical examination or chemical analysis. In order to set on foot a grand Volcanic Museum, it would be necessary to bring home from every one of the volcanoes visited, not less than 10 or 12, but still better 15 or 18, specimens of the porphyritic trachytes, all carefully selected, well-shaped, containing crystals not disintegrated, and of sufficient size to admit of a fresh fracture being made. For such quantities, however, there cannot be provided on board ship, even with the kindest patronage of the commanding officer, sufficient space for the accumulations of two years' arduous efforts in forming a collection. The greatest part, therefore, should be sent by other conveyance to Trieste, the most secure channel being through the consuls of the Austrian Empire, or those of allied powers, or through the medium of British, Dutch or American mercantile establishments, or by the regular packets.

Duplicates, say four or five specimens, from each volcano, should be taken on board the Novara in boxes of about 3 feet long. It would be too disheartening to have any misgivings of the success of this glorious scheme for getting together a Museum of Volcanic Rocks in Vienna, of all the regions of the globe, arranged upon a regular geographical system, each labelled with its own name, so as to promote a general acquaintance with these branches of knowledge:

1. Europe.
2. Atlantic Islands.
3. Continent of Asia, South Coast of Arabia (Aden), Kamtschatka.
4. Islands of Eastern Asia and India.
5. The Indian Ocean.
6. The Pacific.
7. Continent of South America: Chili, Peru, Bolivia, Quitó and New Grenada.
8. Central America.
9. Mexico, south of the river Gila.
10. North-Western America, north of the river Gila.
11. West Indies.

Much of this work might be done on board the Novara. As to Nos. 3 and 4, Kamtschatka, the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, the Red Sea, and the West Indies, it will not be difficult to procure specimens at some future period.

Our piping times of peace are favourable to the execution of this project, which should be zealously kept in view throughout the Expedition. Travelling as I was, during the great wars, I did not dare shrink from the difficulty of having to carry along with me 44 large boxes, as I did on the road through Mexico from Acapulco to Vera Cruz, whence they were sent to Cuba, Philadelphia, and so to Bordeaux. The mechanical labour of having the collections carefully packed, keeping duplicates distinct, and sending away geological, botanical, zoological and ethnographical collections, is itself quite as important as the purely scientific work.

The exhibition of comprehensive volcanic collections brings to light the strong analogy subsisting between the trachytes belonging to volcanoes, far distant from one another, while it indicates the existence of great differences in the mineralogical composition of volcanoes situated very near each other. My most excellent friend and fellow-traveller in Siberia, Professor Gustavus Rose, recently subjected the trachytes of the Berlin Museum, the greater number of which were collected by myself, to careful crystallographical and chemical investigation. He found oligoclase and pyroxene on the trachytes of Chimborazo, Popocatepetl, Colima, Tunguragua, Puracé, Paramo de Ruiz, and the Peak of Teneriffe, which has recently been accurately examined by Mr. Charles Deville. The trachytes of Toluca, Orizaba, Gunung Barang, and Burung Agung, on the Island of Java, Argæus, in Asia Minor, Cuneguilla, south of Sta. Fé de Nuevo-Mexico, the Sièrra de San Francisco, west of the Rocky Mountains and Pueblo Zuni, consist of hornblende, oligoclase, and brown mica. The trachytes of Stromboli and Etna, those of the Siebengebirge (Drachenfels), and of Kara Hissar in Phrygia, consist of large crystals of glassy felspar, with numerous smaller crystals of oligoclase, some hornblende and mica. Oligoclase, having been mistaken for albite, led to the fantastic idea of a peculiar rock, the Andesite, prevailing in the Andes, and even led our great master, Leopold von Buch, to make some curious distinctions, (Déscription des Iles Canaries, 1836, pp. 186-87.)

To ascertain the average height above the level of the sea, I propose that furrows should be cut in the rocks of the different regions along with inscriptions, which might carry information to unborn ages, as has been done, on my suggestion, now some 25 years ago, by the Academy of Science at St. Petersburg, on the Caspian Sea, while Sir James Ross, in his "Voyage of Discovery in the Southern and Antarctic Regions," 1839-43, Vol. II. p. 23, regrets not having done so, or, at least, of having only once adopted this plan.

I would also, with all deference, suggest observations regarding the daily atmospheric variations or tides, so as to obtain tables of maxima and minima. In order to obtain these, whenever the frigate is at anchor near any coast, but particularly within the tropics, hourly observations with the barometer and thermometer (the latter affixed to the barometer, and also freely suspended in the open air), should be made through several consecutive days and nights. During the occurrence of an Aurora Borealis (or Australis), attention should be paid to the perturbations of the magnetic variation, and the magnetic intensity of the horizontal needle. Boreal Auroras have been seen in the southern latitudes of the Peruvian Pacific, as low down as 12° 13′ S.; but the occurrence of such phenomena there is of much less frequent occurrence than that of Austral Auroras in Scotland. It is important to keep an exact register of the intensity of blackness in the "coalbags," when the smallest stars surrounding them are still visible to the naked eye. The daily meteorological observations, as also those on the temperature of the sea, will probably be made on board ship, in conformity with the views of Lieutenant Maury, and the method agreed upon at the last nautical congress.

As I shall have long ceased to be numbered with the living, when the Novara returns to Trieste, richly freighted with scientific treasures of all kinds, with fresh information relating to organic and inorganic nature, to the races of man, their habits and languages, I now pray to Almighty God that His blessing may rest upon this great and noble enterprise, to the honour of our common German Fatherland! And concluding, in this night, these oblique, illegible lines, I remember, not without emotion, and with very mingled feelings, that joyous period of my life when, fifty-eight years ago, in the beautiful gardens of Schönbrunn, preparing myself for a long journey, I was enjoying with grateful mind the friendly kindness of the venerable Jacquin and Peter Frank.

A. v. HUMBOLDT.

Berlin, in the night of 7th April, 1857.

DEPARTURE.

I.

Preparations for the Voyage.

Approbation of the Plan to fit out an Austrian Man-of-War for a Voyage round the World.—Object of the Expedition.—Appointment of a Scientific Commission.—Preparations.—Fitting out the Frigate Novara at Pola.—Departure for Trieste.—Visit of the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board.

In the autumn of 1856, His Majesty the Emperor was graciously pleased to approve of the proposal for a voyage round the world, as projected by his Imperial Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the head of the Austrian navy, and to commission the sailing frigate Novara for that purpose, a vessel qualified to meet every requisite condition.

The chief object of the Expedition—a circumstance which must not be lost sight of—was to afford the officers and cadets of the ship an opportunity of acquiring that practical acquaintance with naval affairs which, added to the theoretical knowledge previously attained, would render them thoroughly familiar with nautical routine, and thus materially contribute to the further development of the Austrian navy.

This branch of the public service, placed since 1848 on an entirely new basis, has with difficulty worked its way through all those embarrassing circumstances inseparable from the organization of a new system; but the honest zeal and energy of the board appointed, supported by favour from the highest quarters, have succeeded in introducing many improvements, and in increasing by degrees the numerical strength of the men, thereby laying a secure foundation for the rising naval force, the importance of which, at this moment, every reflecting patriot will acknowledge.

The intended Expedition offered, besides the advantages for the service, another not less important for the State, namely, the recognition of the Austrian flag in remote quarters of the globe, to which it had never hitherto penetrated; and by thus opening new channels for the outlet of our natural products and manufactured goods, to promote the industrial, commercial, and maritime interests of the empire.

In order to satisfy the scientific requirements of the age, the illustrious head of the navy issued orders, that the officers on board should in every way assist in the researches to be made, connected with navigation and geography; and was, moreover, pleased to invite the Imperial Academy of Sciences to nominate two members, he himself naming a third, to accompany the Expedition for the purpose of observing and investigating phenomena pertaining to the different branches of physical science, as well as collecting rare specimens and interesting objects of natural history. To this commission were ultimately attached a botanist, a practical zoologist, an artist, and a flower-gardener.

The Academy had, for the guidance of these gentlemen, drawn up instructions which, with a multitude of other papers containing useful hints and interesting queries, received from the Imp. Geographical, Geological, and Medical Societies, as well as from numerous foreign and native scientific men, formed a most valuable collection of materials for the purposes of the Expedition.[4]

[4] Of these instructions, "The physical and geognostical remarks," with which the Nestor of natural science honoured the voyagers of the Novara, being of a more general interest, are published at the end of this volume, together with the facsimile of an autograph letter of Baron von Humboldt to the commander of the Expedition.

Foremost amongst these savans stood Alexander von Humboldt, that illustrious man, who up to the last moment of his existence was alive with youthful enthusiasm for every scientific enterprise. In England great interest in the success of the Expedition was evinced by Sir Roderic Murchison, Sir W. Hooker, Sir Charles Lyell, General Sabine, Admiral Smyth, Admiral Fitzroy, Professor Robert Owen, Professor Philips, Professor Bell, Professor W. A. Ramsay, Professor Goodsir, of Edinburgh, W. J. Hamilton, Esq., Charles Darwin, Esq., L. Horner, Esq., James Yates, Esq., B. Davis, Esq., &c., &c. From the United States of North America, we received most valuable communications from Commander M. F. Maury, National Observatory, Washington, D. C.—Captain Rodgers, and others.

Letters of introduction were received from Germany, and particularly from England, to influential parties and societies in a variety of places abroad, amongst which were many warm and friendly recommendations from the English Government and Admiralty, as well as the Directors of the then East India Company, to various administrative authorities in the British Colonies.

GUN-ROOM OF THE NOVARA.

The frigate Novara was laid up in the arsenal of Pola, where all requisite steps were taken to complete her outfit, and prepare her thoroughly for the voyage. The ventilation of the lower deck was improved, and the number of cabins increased in proportion to the number of individuals for whom accommodation was to be provided.

The gun-room was, by command of the Archduke, converted into a reading-room, and provided with a well-selected library as well as with all the charts and maps necessary for the information of the officers, who here made their calculations and executed their drawings.

The store-rooms for the sails and tackle were enlarged, so as to hold a double quantity.

A distilling apparatus, the same as patented by M. Rocher, of Nantes, was fixed on the gun-deck, and being placed in connection with the ship's coppers, it was found that, during the few hours each day that the latter were used for cooking, enough sea-water was distilled to supply the entire ship's company with excellent water to drink. This distilled water, after having been kept in iron tanks for a month, was found pleasant to the taste, and agreed very well with the health. The excellent health enjoyed by all the crew throughout the voyage must, in a great measure, be ascribed to the circumstance, that scarcely any other but this distilled sea-water was used, so that the men were enabled entirely to forego drinking river or spring-water, which in the tropics are frequently found injurious.

The use of such an apparatus permits a great diminution in the store of water usually carried by a vessel. The space gained by this diminished bulk of water, enabled us to take on board a larger cargo of coal and provisions, such as preserved beef and compressed vegetables. The sailors were not, however, particularly fond of the preserved beef, because in cooking it loses a great part of its flavour (though the broth is strong and good); nor does it seem as an article of diet to have had a particularly beneficial influence on the health, for the sanitary condition of the crew was equally satisfactory, and the number of scorbutic patients not materially increased when, towards the end of the voyage, the fresh stores were exhausted, and only salt and pickled rations were issued.

Compressed dried vegetables were of great benefit to the health of our men, and cannot be sufficiently recommended. The so-called melange d'équipage of Chollet, as well as sauer kraut, potatoes, and other vegetables, have an excellent taste, improve the soups when mixed with them, and are easily preserved, provided they be protected from the effect of damp. Hence it might be advisable to keep them enclosed in well-soldered tin boxes. The price of these vegetables is so moderate, that it is surprising they are not more generally employed.

The long-continued satisfactory state of health of the crew must also partly be sought for in the constant use of shower-baths. For this purpose, apertures, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, were bored in the planks of both the deck and forecastle, under which a perforated disc could be screwed, and above which a pail of water was placed. By these simple means every one was enabled to enjoy the luxury of a bath; when, however, the desire for that refreshment became general, so that the arrangement above-mentioned was insufficient, a hand fire-engine was made use of, so as to accommodate as many at once as might present themselves—a process which found great favour with the jolly tars, as affording abundant opportunities for fun and merriment.

VERTICAL SECTION OF THE FRIGATE "NOVARA."
[Larger.]

The frigate Novara had been placed on the stocks in the arsenal of Venice in the month of February, 1845, and was launched in April, 1850. She was pierced for 42 guns, but during the voyage carried only thirty 30-pounders,[5] and four of smaller calibre.

[5] The 30-pounder marine guns answer very nearly to the English 32-pounders.

The principal dimensions of the frigate (Vienna measurement) are:—

[6] 96 ⁴²³⁄₁₀₀₀ Austrian feet = 100 English.

The superficial area of the ship, or the load-water line, amounted to 5685.35 square feet; quantity of water displaced 2107 Austrian, or 2630 English tons. The superficial area of the principal sails amounted to 18,291 square feet.

The frigate proved herself to be an excellent sailer, as, of the various vessels which, throughout the voyage, sailed in company with us, only three clippers outstripped her.

The question may here be asked, why, in the present state of navigation, a sailing-vessel was preferred to a steamer for this voyage? The principal consideration which decided this selection was the greater disposable area which a sailing-vessel offers in comparison with a steamer of the same dimensions, in which coal and machinery occupy so large a space. On the present occasion, it will be perceived that what was specially wanted was room for as great a number of officers, cadets, and men as possible, who were, as has been stated, to make this voyage for improvement in nautical affairs. Plenty of space was also required for the numerous instruments and bulky collections of objects of natural history; while in most parts of the ocean which we were to traverse, the winds blow so regularly, that, with very rare exceptions, sails form the best motive power. The expense of fuel requisite for a steamer, and the trouble of replacing it during the voyage, are thus saved; whilst, finally, the space occupied by the men employed in the management of the machinery, and that required for the stowage of special stores, would be withdrawn from more important objects.

After the frigate had been properly fitted up in the arsenal of Pola, she sailed on the 15th March, 1857, for Trieste, where she cast anchor on the 17th in the Bay of Muggia. H.I.M.'s corvette Caroline, likewise fitted out at Pola for a voyage to the coast of South America and Western Africa, followed in her wake, and it was now seen that the frigate was a better sailer than the corvette, a circumstance so much the more satisfactory, that the latter had hitherto been considered the swiftest ship in our navy.

The unfavourable state of the weather interfered so much with the works which were to be finished at Trieste, that the embarkation of provisions, swinging the compasses, &c., &c., could only be proceeded with very slowly.

At last, the members of the Commission arrived, and the vessel only waited for sailing orders.

Before leaving on so interesting an enterprise, with which the most pleasing recollections of our lives will ever be associated, we had the gratification of being honoured by a visit on board from the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. The commander of the Expedition introduced the officers and scientific gentlemen to his Imperial Highness, who addressed them in affecting terms, and concluded his remarks by expressing a hope that the frigate Novara would, with God's help, return happily from her mission to her own honour and that of the country.

The narrative of the voyage is now presented, and, probably, the results of the various scientific investigations will very shortly be offered to a discerning public, leaving it to them to judge how far we have succeeded in realizing the hopes of the illustrious Prince. But if we have not satisfied all the expectations entertained, it certainly was not from insufficiency of means; for everything was complete in that respect, and we owe it chiefly to the circumspection and kind care of the Commander-in-chief of our navy, that this enterprise had been so wisely planned, and its details brought in so short a time to such a degree of perfection that, during the whole voyage, it was not found necessary to make the slightest alteration in the original arrangements and regulations.

GEODETICAL AND ASTRONOMICAL INSTRUMENTS.

LOOK-OUT MAN.

II.

From Trieste to Gibraltar.

Departure.—Fair Voyage down the Adriatic.—A Man lost and found again.—Passage through the Straits of Messina.—The Steamer Sta. Lucia returns to Trieste.—Regulations and Instructions for further Proceedings.—A Day on Board the Novara.—Sunrise.—Cleaning the Ship.—Mental and physical occupation.—Moonlight at sea.

The departure of the frigate was fixed for the 30th April, 1857, and H.I.M.'s corvette Caroline, Captain Kohen, was ordered to accompany her as far as the coast of South America. H.I.M's steamer, Sta. Lucia, Captain von Littrow, received orders to tow both ships as far as the extremity of the Straits of Messina to avoid loss of time, such as frequently arises in the Adriatic during the spring, from calms and unfavourable winds.

With the dawn of the day fixed for the departure of the ships, all was bustle on board; craft of all kinds hovered around, and relatives and friends had assembled in great numbers to take leave. The verdant and thickly-wooded slopes of the promenade to St. Andrea, near the shore, were thronged with spectators, and the fair and lovely picture of our native coast developed itself once more before our eyes, clad in all its charms of spring, as if to wish us a hearty farewell, an auspicious voyage, and a happy return!

At 8 o'clock a. m. we weighed anchor, and the steamer Sta. Lucia approached the Novara for the purpose of towing her from the Bay of Muggia into the roads of Trieste. She had all her colours displayed, and saluted the city of Trieste, Austria's chief and most important emporium, with 21 guns. The salute was answered from the castle, whilst the band on board struck up Haydn's beautiful hymn: "God preserve the Emperor!" The frigate moved out of the road-stead, accompanied by a great number of boats, and followed by the best wishes of the numerous crowds assembled on shore, and of all true patriots, who looked upon this Expedition as a cheering evidence that a new and energetic spirit of enterprise had arisen in their native country.

PLATE I.—TRACK FROM TRIESTE TO MADEIRA.
[Larger.]

The corvette Caroline, which was waiting outside the roads, was attached to the frigate, and soon Trieste appeared like a dim cloud on the distant horizon. The outlines of the Carinthian Alps became fainter, and the excitement of the parting scene was calmed by that busy activity required from every one embarking on a long voyage, if he desires to attain any degree of comfort, however little, in the cramped and limited space of a crowded ship.

A perfect calm, a smooth sea, and a but-slightly-clouded sky, prognosticated fair weather, and promised leisure to complete those arrangements which had been left undone. The steamer Sta. Lucia performed her task of towing the two vessels most satisfactorily, and, favoured by the prevailing currents of wind and water, we made five miles an hour, and came, on the day of departure, in sight of the promontory of Pola.

The passage down the Adriatic was on the whole most pleasant, with the exception of some showers of rain near the heights of Isola Grossa; which, however, on this occasion saluted us only with a slight puff of wind. The ship moved so gently and quietly on her way, that those occupying the lower cabins could scarcely have fancied themselves at sea, had they not been made aware of it by other impressions.

On the 1st of May, the crew became highly excited by a man being missed, when the morning watch was called. Some thought he had, from fear of a slight punishment hanging over him, jumped overboard, but as nothing of the kind had been observed by the watch on deck, every corner was searched, but without success, upon which the man was given over as lost. When, however, the dinner hour arrived, and the tables and benches were being removed from the lower deck, how great was the surprise, when the culprit was discovered crouching among them! A peal of laughter roused the poor fellow, who this time was let off with the fright and the punishment of being made an object of ridicule by his comrades.

On the 3rd of May, being clear of the Adriatic, the steamer Sta. Lucia was at midnight despatched to Corfu to complete her store of coal, whilst we sailed for Cape Spartivento, on the Calabrian coast, which had been assigned as our rendezvous. On the 5th, we sighted this the most southerly promontory of Italy, when, in consequence of a fresh breeze, the sea began to make itself rather disagreeably felt. The novices on board became somewhat alarmed. A feeble voice was even heard, which endeavoured to prove from this phenomenon that man is a creature made for terra firma, and not for the watery element; but this excellent idea came rather late; mankind are obliged to submit to existing circumstances, and this thought alone held out some hope, that a longer stay on board would prove the best cure for the evil. Such indeed was the case; though pale faces, want of appetite, and even worse effects, were produced, whenever the ship made a heavier roll than usual. But these slight inconveniences of sea life became rarer and rarer, till at last they appeared only in really stiff gales. On the 7th the steamer Sta. Lucia returned and took us again in tow.

The weather during our passage through the charming straits of Messina was delightful. The colossal Etna exhibited in all its glory its snow-capped summit, gilded by the rays of the rising sun, and Messina shone with all the attractions of its splendid situation. The coast of this part of Italy is mostly bare and rugged, the broken outlines of the mountains imparting to the landscape that characteristic peculiarity which makes so deep an impression on the mind. We passed the famous Charybdis, in which a multitude of dolphins were disporting themselves. The neighbouring coast formed a brilliant panorama, and we kept so close in shore as to be able to distinguish the movements of the people. The appearance of our three goodly ships seemed to have attracted the attention of the inhabitants, for they stood in groups in the streets and squares of Reggio and Villa San Giovanni, saluting us by waving their handkerchiefs. When towards the evening we had passed the straits, we could descry the Neapolitan coast as far as Monte Bulgario, in the Bay of Policastro, and distinguish the imposing Stromboli, with its volume of smoke, far on the Western horizon.

The following morning found us in sight of the small island of Alicudi, situated on the north of Sicily. The estimable captain of the Lucia came on board to take leave, on his return to Trieste. The steamer, being relieved of her burden, made her way briskly towards her destination; and, before an hour had elapsed, we could perceive nothing but a small streak of smoke in the haze of the horizon.

With light breezes, we came, on the following day, in sight of the island of Ustica. Sea-gulls (Thalassidroma pelagica) enlivened the scene, as they, from time to time, flew after the garbage thrown from the ship, or sought for sea-nettles and other small inhabitants of the sea's surface. These birds much resemble our land swallows, and their movements are so graceful, that one cannot but admire them, especially when they lightly touch the agitated water with their little webbed feet, and directly, as if repelled, withdraw. The muscular power of these feathered creatures is truly wonderful; they follow the ship for entire days continually on the wing, ever on the watch to snatch at the little food which the sea seems but scantily to supply to them.

"PALINURUS".

Whilst we were passing down the Mediterranean, a great deal of time was employed in drawing up regulations, and in digesting all those instructions which had reached the Commander of the Expedition from all sides, and by which we were to be guided in our future proceedings.

The scientific gentlemen were the first who received certain rules for their guidance; for, life on board a ship, and especially of a man-of-war, is so entirely different from that on shore,—the etiquette and usages practised appear, to those unused to the sea, so vexatious and annoying, that it was absolutely necessary to inform them of the regulations which are essential in order to keep so singular an organization as that of a ship at sea in working order. Erelong every one perceived, that the matutinal annoyance of holystoning the decks, the daily cleaning of everything on board, &c., are measures of importance, which contribute materially to the preservation of the health of the crew, and that a strict observance of discipline is absolutely necessary to exercise their powers, and thus to fit them for all eventualities.

For the better accommodation of the naturalists, a place on the lower gun-deck was fitted up for those operations which, on account of the limited space and noxious exhalations, could not well be performed in the cabins.

We had a large quantity of alcohol on board, destined for the preservation of interesting objects of natural history. In order to prevent any calamity by fire arising therefrom, the whole quantity was put in a large iron tank placed in the hold, and covered over with sand. It will, however, be seen in the sequel, that even this precaution proved insufficient to protect the ship from the ignition of this highly-combustible substance.

The meteorological observations, and those connected with the physical geography of the sea, were entrusted to four officers, who, like those attached to the watches, had alternately to be at their posts, and had, at prescribed hours, to observe the barometer, thermometer, and psychrometer, as well as the temperature of the surface of the sea, the state of the sky and the ocean, and to note down the obtained results. One of the junior officers was intrusted with the nautical observations on shipboard, as well as the astronomical and magnetical on shore.

The midshipmen were at the same time trained by study and practice, so as to enable them to assist the officers in their duties. Besides the men on the look-out, one of the midshipmen was employed on the same service. In stormy nights, when the wind is howling, and rain or snow falling, this post is certainly not very pleasant, but is, as may readily be imagined, most important.

Life in the limited space of a ship, completely cut off from the external world, is so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea, that we will endeavour to describe a day passed on board the Novara, from the instant when at daybreak the bustle and activity begin, till the late hour when night reminds one of repose, those sweet moments which carry the voyager to his distant home on the wings of a dream.

As the sonorous bell strikes the fifth hour of the morning, the crew are called on deck by the boatswain's whistle, the hammocks are slung up and stowed away, and the work begins.

This is the busiest time of the day, and for the mere spectator the most uncomfortable. On all sides scouring, rubbing, sweeping are going on, floods of water are streaming along the decks, and he who is not as yet familiar with these cleaning processes, runs some risk of a ducking as soon as he makes his appearance outside his cabin. These morning ablutions are, however, indispensable evils on board ship, for cleanliness is a condition essential to the preservation of health, and even the quantity of humidity which penetrates the timber, and renders the air damp, appears to be less injurious than the omission of these daily scourings.

When the cleaning of the various parts of the ship is finished, the idlers, and such of the officers as are off duty, appear on deck, whither people come to enjoy the fresh air, and to greet the opening day. It may, however, be permitted to observe, that a sunrise at sea, notwithstanding its various charms, is by far less imposing than the same scene on a lofty mountain, where the veil of night seems to vanish as if by magic, and luxuriant nature lies at our feet like a smiling infant awaking from a lovely dream. That wild majesty of scenery, that overpowering grandeur of gigantic mountain forms, such as one sees in the Swiss or Tyrolese Alps, is wanting at sea, where the rising sun pours his beams only over a boundless world of water.

The sailors breakfast at 7, the officers at 8, and the Commander at 9. At the latter hour the bugle sounds the order to "clear the ship," when the cleaning of arms, guns, and all other articles of metal connected with the ship's armoury, begins. During this process the band plays cheerful airs, so that the work is done whilst keeping time with the music, which serves to lighten the labour. This duty requires to be completed within forty-five minutes, and terminates with an inspection of the men and their arms.

This being over, officers and midshipmen off duty assemble together with the naturalists in the reading-room. Most of the books in the library referred to those countries likely to be visited by the Expedition, so that every one might previously obtain useful information relative to their physical, historical, and social conditions.

The naturalists employ the greater part of the day in their cabins, noting down their observations, and preparing for those to be made in the course of the voyage. The crew are kept in activity by being drilled and otherwise occupied.

The men dine at 12; the dinner of the officers is served up at 3, and that of the Commodore at half-past 3 o'clock p. m. The remainder of the afternoon is spent in prosecuting the labours begun in the morning. Thus steals on the evening, when a general assemblage takes place on deck, for air and exercise.

SEAMEN OFF DUTY.

The occurrences of the day, the sunset, the curious formation of the clouds, or the bewitching beauty of a brilliant tropical sky at night, form interesting topics for lively discussion. It is, however, rather daring to institute a comparison between the splendour of the sky in the tropics and that of our higher latitudes. For, most men become more or less unjust towards the beauties of a new and foreign natural scenery, in consequence of their not being able to divest themselves of former impressions produced in them by phenomena of a similar nature. What impressions are, for instance, deeper in young and old, and excite more delightful recollections than the starry sky of home? And can it be disputed that the association of ideas has a most powerful effect upon the impressions made by those phenomena of nature which are so peculiarly attractive and so deeply fixed in the human mind?

The conversation generally becomes more lively on those evenings when the moon, placid friend of the sailor, appears on the distant horizon, shedding her silvery beams over the unbroken expanse of water. The influence which she exercises on the state of the weather, even the prejudices and superstitions connected with our satellite, offer subjects of interesting debate; involuntarily the mariner looks with grateful feelings towards that heavenly luminary, the mild soothing light of which diminishes the number of his anxious nights, protects him in present, warns him of remote dangers, and influences so powerfully that vast element on which he passes the greater part of his life. Indeed he who has ever spent a dark and stormy night on the ocean, when the ship, lashed by the fury of the waves, and borne resistlessly along, stands in constant peril of coming in violent collision with a vessel similarly circumstanced, or of being dashed to pieces on some iron-bound coast of rugged rock, easily comprehends and will excuse the sailor who ascribes to the moonlight somewhat of a supernatural and mysterious power.

In this manner, and notwithstanding the continued sameness, days and months glide away like hours, until we again cast anchor, and only the work accomplished gives an idea of the length of time which has been passed at sea.

Sunday alone breaks the monotony of life on board, when, after the diurnal cleaning of the ship, and the inspection of the crew, the officers, and all the men who are not on duty, assemble for divine service on the lower gun-deck, where the chaplain says mass on a temporary altar, whilst the ship's band performs sacred music. In the afternoon the men off duty amuse themselves for a couple of hours with the "tombola," a game much liked by our sailors. Between 6 and 7 p. m. the band plays on deck, whilst the sailors are cutting grotesque figures to the music. The singular capers by which all evince their happiness; the good-humoured awkwardness with which each clings to the brawny arm of his companion; the mock graceful air those who enact the gentler sex assume in the dance, and, finally, the affected attitude with which the cavaliers bow to their partners as if they really were of the gentler sex—all this is most ludicrous and amusing. The playing the national dance "Monferina" always elicits a particularly hearty reception. There is a peculiar charm in national melodies, even though they awaken no political reminiscences like the Marseillaise, or the Rakoczy; they electrify alike the educated and the men of the people; a thousand pleasing recollections suddenly crowd into the memory, and when the well-known tunes strike the ear, the heart seems to live again in bygone times! As if touched by magic, the sailor from the Adriatic, as soon as the Monferina is struck up, seizes his neighbour by the arm with a noisy shout and hurls him about in wild hilarity; his thoughts seem as if flying towards his distant home, where, in the country inn, with a buxom lass on his shoulder, he has waltzed away many a happy hour. The whole village, with all its familiar faces, seems to revive in his memory during the playing of the melody,—now he fills his glass; now he clinks it merrily with that of his companion; now he presses his sweetheart more closely to his side: Lo! suddenly a shrill whistle pierces the air, the music ceases, the call is heard "to fall in," and the yet dance-stricken sailor, suddenly, as if awakening from a sweet reverie, is once more standing on the deck of the Novara!

The frigate, in the Mediterranean also, maintained her superiority as a sailer. The corvette Caroline was able to keep the prescribed distance from the Novara only by the latter reefing some of her sails. As some magnetic observations were to be made at Gibraltar, and, as we had to ascertain the results of the various chronometers on board, on the 12th of May we signalled the corvette to take her own time and rejoin us at Gibraltar, as we were anxious to avoid unnecessary detention.

The acquisitions of the naturalists had, as yet, been very scanty: to their great annoyance they could not even obtain any of the tortoises, which, from time to time, approached the ship, though they were repeatedly fired at, and on one occasion a boat was launched, in the hope of catching some of them. The specimens which we saw were from fifteen to twenty inches in diameter; they mostly floated quietly on the surface, and seemed sleeping or basking themselves in the sun.

The night of the 16th May was exceedingly boisterous, and almost tangible darkness prevailed; thunder, lightning, and occasionally strong easterly squalls, raged furiously, and only subsided towards the morning, when it cleared up with fresh southerly breezes. Not being far from Cape de Gatt, on the Spanish coast, prudence required us to change course, and, during the continuance of stormy weather, to keep at a respectful distance from the shore. Here a merchantman, apparently an American, bore down so close upon us, that, in the darkness, an unpleasant collision seemed unavoidable. However, we tacked about, and thus, fortunately avoiding our dangerous neighbour, safely proceeded on our course.

It is truly astonishing how often merchantmen, entirely forgetful of their own safety, from want of caution, or presumption, or it would occasionally seem, sheerly from acting upon peculiar and abnormal principles of navigation, wantonly expose ship, men, and cargo to many dangers, which might easily be avoided, particularly in cases where no tacking is required, and only a slight touch of the rudder would suffice to prevent a collision, which is always attended with danger to the smaller ship. In this respect the North Americans are very unpleasant neighbours on account of their national vanity, and the Dutch for their phlegmatic temperament and the indifference they evince on such occasions.

On the 18th of May, the small rocky island of Alboran, in the narrow part of the sea between Africa and Spain, was observed; being flat and without vegetation, it is scarcely perceptible, and the land-fall during the night should be carefully avoided. The erection of a lighthouse on this island would certainly be regarded as a great boon by all who navigate the Mediterranean.

On the 19th of May, the sea suddenly assumed a peculiar orange colour; a dust-like covering was observed on the surface of the water, and at some depth white points might be seen, mingling with each other in the wake of the ship. Clouds of this orange-like matter appeared spread upon the sea, which thereby lost its usual transparency. On closer examination this phenomenon appeared to arise from a mass consisting of myriads of minute animalculæ, which had a yellow opaque kernel, the gelatinous covering of which was transparent and colourless. A quantity of sea-water impregnated with this matter, having been brought into a dark room, gave out a light, and when agitated, such brightness proceeded from it, as justified the anticipation that, during the night, the whole sea would be illuminated. Accordingly the wake of the ship was illuminated by a wonderful stream of light, in the depths of which larger masses of luminous matter could be discerned, whilst on the surface there was a sparkling and glittering, as if all the stars of the firmament were reflected in the water.

This phosphorescence of the sea, for the explanation of which we are chiefly indebted to Professor Ehrenberg, proceeds for the most part from the emanations of light from molluscæ of the genus Medusa, and other living phosphoric animalculæ; sometimes, however, as for instance in Venice, it arises from the putrescent fibres of decayed molluscæ, and other organisms in a state of decomposition.

On the evening of the 20th the splendid Ceuta Light was seen, which, even at a distance of twenty miles, looks as if it were quite near. This lighthouse is of the utmost importance to ships emerging into the Atlantic from the Mediterranean, as the current is exceedingly powerful, and during the night is apt imperceptibly to carry a vessel out of her course. On the morning of the 21st, the ship lay in a calm before the rock of Gibraltar. Barren, gray, and gloomy rose now before our sight this rocky, gun-studded, colossal sentinel of that vigilantly-prudent, energetic, and jealous Power, which is so constantly seeking to extend her rule wherever her own interests are concerned, or where she thinks it advisable to make herself respected by other nations.

A light breeze sprang up, and at half-past 3 p. m. the anchorage, eleven and a half fathoms in depth, was reached. The frigate now lay in front of the Alameda or public gardens of Gibraltar, situated near the town gate, called the Ragged Staff. This anchorage is tolerably safe at this season, but in autumn and winter, as well as generally in strong easterly winds, it is not to be recommended, it being preferable to haul further in towards the place where the merchant-vessels usually lie. We saluted the English flag on the fortress with twenty-one guns, which were immediately answered from the ramparts. There were no English men-of-war in the Roads, except the sloop Curlew, Capt. Horton. The following morning our consort, the Caroline, anchored in our vicinity.

The first day of the arrival of a man-of-war in harbour is attended with much inconvenience, particularly if she carries the flag of the Commodore, or it happens that the mail packets are arriving or departing, or that there are many ships of war in the Roads. The latter was not now the case, but so many visitors, letters, and newspapers arrived at once, that neither the one nor the other could be thoroughly enjoyed.

The local authorities, the governor, Sir James Fergusson, at their head, were extremely obliging and attentive; Mr. Falkland, an officer of the Engineers, was placed at our disposal; a specially-reserved site was assigned us for astronomical and magnetical observations; huts were erected by the workmen of the arsenal for the protection of the instruments, and in short everything, calculated to promote scientific labours, was provided. The Chancellor of the Austrian Consulate, Mr. John Frembly, himself a geologist, proved likewise to be of great service to our scientific men: and it was considered a fortunate omen to have found, at this our first anchorage, so much sympathy with the objects of the Expedition.

VIEW OF GIBRALTAR FROM SEAWARD.

ROCK OF GIBRALTAR.

III.

Gibraltar.

Stay from the 20th to the 30th May, 1857.

Political Significance of the Rock.—Courtesy of the British Authorities.—Fortifications.—Signal Stations.—The only place in Europe frequented by Monkeys.—Calcareous Caves.—Chief Entrances into the Town.—Shutting the Town Gates.—Public Establishments.—Inhabitants.—Elliott's Gardens.—The Isthmus, or Neutral Ground.—Algeziras.—Ceuta.—Commerce and Navigation.—Excellent regulation in the English Navy relative to Officers' Outfit.—Small-pox appears on Board the Caroline.—Departure from Gibraltar.—A Fata Morgana.—The Novara passes the Straits.—Take leave of Europe.—Voyage to Madeira.—Floating Bottles to ascertain the Currents.—Arrival in the Roads of Funchal.

This remarkable promontory, which in our days has obtained so much political importance, the Calpe of the ancients, constituted of old, with the opposite Abyla,[7] the so-called pillars of Hercules, celebrated, at the same time, as the boundary of the then-known world. It derives its name from the corrupted Arabic Gebel (mountain) and Tarik, the name of a Moorish conqueror, who had pitched his camp here (a. d. 711). Like a colossal giant, guarding the portal of Europe, and converted, by the energy and ingenuity of the British, into an almost impregnable outpost, this precipitous rock has, as regards the Mediterranean, the same high strategic importance for that great maritime people, as Heligoland for the German Ocean, Aden for the Red Sea, Ceylon and Singapore for the Indian Archipelago, Hongkong for the Chinese waters, or the Cape and St. Helena for the Atlantic Ocean.

[7] The present Apes Hill.

Gibraltar was already strongly fortified, when it belonged to the Andalusian kingdom, but its grandest fortifications date from the treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became an appanage of the British crown. Stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it, though the calcareous formation of the locality and its numerous caves may have considerably facilitated their construction.

The English authorities, who so kindly assisted in the scientific researches, obligingly furnished each individual of the frigate's staff with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased, and thereby afforded them the particular gratification of being able to view and admire these vast structures in all their details.

Excellent and well-kept roads lead to the principal fortifications, which only begin at an elevation of several hundred feet above the town. The galleries, hewn in the solid rock, forming a kind of casemates, are of such breadth and height that they may be conveniently traversed by a man on horseback with his hat on. They have been constructed at an immense expense of labour and money, and are designated by various names, as "Upper gallery," "Lower gallery," "Queen's gallery," "St. George's Hall," and so on. Their extent is estimated at an English mile, but is probably much greater. Besides these galleries, passages run for miles in the interior of the rock, affording the garrison a thoroughly-protected connection with all points that may chance to be threatened.

The grandest and most imposing of these marvellous excavations are the "Queen's gallery" and "St. George's Hall." According to carved inscriptions, most of them were begun and completed between the years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit, there were mounted on the different fortifications 707 guns, about one hundred of which peeped out of the smaller embrasures. Since that date, however, the number is said to have been increased so as to amount now to about 1500.

During the stay of the Novara, it fortunately happened that the birthday of Queen Victoria was celebrated, and thus an opportunity was offered of seeing the fiery mountain in full activity. Though the occasion was peaceable, yet the imposing spectacle gave a tolerable idea of the elements of destruction which Gibraltar could put in action if really attacked. The governor of the fortress, surrounded by a brilliant staff, in which the Spanish governor of Algeziras and his officers played but a sorry part, reviewed the garrison, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, to the number of from 5000 to 6000 men; and whilst the troops defiled in slow and quick step, lightnings and thunders issued from all the crevices and embrasures of the artificially-perforated rock; huge volumes of dense smoke followed, and a rolling subterraneous rumbling gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano suddenly burst into action. The echo of these salvoes of rejoicing must have been heard, not only in the adjacent parts of Spain, but also on the more remote coast of Africa; and he who was ignorant of the real cause, might have supposed it a grand rehearsal of that fearful tragedy which the English seem determined to perform in the event of an attack. The supposition, however, that the guns of Gibraltar are able entirely to command the Straits is erroneous, for these, at their narrowest part, are 12½ miles wide, and not even the Armstrong guns, with which the fortress has lately been furnished, have so extensive a range. The English are, however, able to command the Straits by a fleet, which would find in the Bay of Gibraltar a sufficiently safe and roomy anchorage.

From the fortifications, a narrow and rather steep path leads to the telegraph station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea. Steamers and men-of-war, as soon as visible, are signalled from this point by means of immense balls and flags. It would be very difficult to signal merchantmen in the same way, as, during a prevailing westerly wind, multitudes of ships often appear to the eastward of the rock, anxiously waiting for a favourable easterly breeze to carry them through the Straits; in the same way the westerly horizon is sometimes crowded with ships, prevented by contrary winds from entering the Mediterranean.

We found at the station an Aneroid-barometer, and a thermometer. The advantages for navigation and physical science of extensive meteorological observations, regularly made, are so evident, that it is astonishing to see how often opportunities are neglected for making them, such as are offered here.

There was no opportunity for seeing any of those families of monkeys, the occasional appearance of which on the Rock of Gibraltar has given rise to tales found in books of travel of the existence of a submarine communication, through which this single representative of the genus in Europe has found its way to this rock from Africa. Sometimes, however, during easterly winds, single individuals are observed on the highest peaks on the eastern side of the rock, where it is completely inaccessible; probably the remnants of that species (Inuus ecaudatus), which at some former time, either by chance, or human agency, have found their way hither from the Moorish coast.

The calcareous caves are very remarkable. That on the western side, called St. Michael's, situated at a height of 800 feet, is the most important. It contains beautiful stalactite formations, and seems to be of considerable extent; it has, however, not been closely examined hitherto, as only a small part is conveniently accessible. St. Martin's Cave, on the south-east, likewise about 800 feet above the level of the sea, is smaller, but its stalactites are of a purer whiteness. A third was discovered a few years since on the eastern side of the rock at a height of only 80 feet, the lower portion of which consists of accumulations of sand and recent shells. There have also been found bones and teeth of large herbivorous animals.

ROCK CAVERN IN GIBRALTAR.

The characteristic vegetation of the mountain is Spanish broom (Spartium junceum), the yellow blossom of which strikes the eye pleasingly at a great distance. There is also one species of cactus, and one of the dwarf palm (Opuntia vulgaris, and Chamærops humilis), which grows in great abundance, and forms, on the south face of the rock, almost the only vegetation, whilst, on account of difference of temperature, it is altogether absent on the remaining sides.

Gibraltar has little to attract strangers to settle; barracks, military store-houses, and fortifications, render the appearance of the place peculiarly monotonous, the more so that there are no elegant buildings, or fine shops, on the rock. There was nothing observed, however, to confirm the statement, in a celebrated geographical work, copied by all later compilers, that "most of the houses are painted black, to soften the glare of the sun, and prevent an attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place." The town, which is built in terraces on the side of the rock, is accessible only from three points. The greatest portion of the traffic passes through the so-called Old Mole at the north end, whilst the entrances on the south are generally used by men-of-war sailors only. All are opened at 5 in the morning, and, according to the season, shut between 7 and 8 in the evening, precisely twenty-five minutes after the first signal-gun. This closing of the gate is attended with ceremonies verging on the comic. A broad-shouldered corporal, carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of immense keys, marches, visibly impressed with the importance of his mission, in measured steps, accompanied by a number of red jackets with fixed bayonets, towards the massive town-gate; the bridge is then, with much ado, drawn up, and the horribly-creaking gate, with great exertion, closed, bolted, and finally locked. After "gun fire" no one can leave the town by the Old Mole; at 10 p. m., however, and at midnight, a little postern is opened, through which those jolly stragglers, who have forgotten in merry company the measure of time, may slip out to return to their floating abodes. From this hour till morning all communication with the harbour is arrested, and the utter impossibility (except in extraordinary cases) of leaving the town after this hour, has given rise amongst the people to the saying, "There is only one thing more difficult than to get out of the town after midnight, and that is to get in."

There are in the city two Anglican churches, one Wesleyan, one Presbyterian, two Catholic chapels, and two synagogues. The garrison library, where likewise a great number of journals and magazines are kept, possesses 22,000 volumes, amongst them several very rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish literature. It was founded in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, and has been hitherto kept up by private subscriptions and the profits arising from a printing-establishment attached to it.

Gibraltar owes to the energy and public spirit of the governor, Sir James Fergusson, the foundation of several important establishments and undertakings. Since the beginning of his administration in 1856, the number of public schools has been considerably increased, the town supplied with gas, and well-arranged public baths established.

The city does not possess a single well or spring; the water used is obtained from tanks, in which the rain is collected. The quantity of rain that fell during the twelve months of 1855 amounted to 78 inches; in 1856, it is said to have been only 24 inches. Nevertheless, there is at no time any scarcity of water. The Government have lately caused the erection of a distilling apparatus for making sea-water fit for domestic purposes, which, however, hitherto has not been used.

The population of Gibraltar, including the garrison of 6000 men, amounts to about 20,000 souls, consisting of Spaniards, English, Italians (mostly Genoese), Portuguese, Moors, Turks, Greeks, and Jews; indeed, a mixture of races, customs, and manners such as scarcely can be found at any other place in Europe. The native residents call Gibraltar briefly the rock, and themselves, with a kind of pseudo-patriotism, rock people, though by the officers of the garrison and navy generally complimented with the name of "rock-scorpions."

The permanent settling of foreigners, in consequence of its being a fortress, requires a number of formalities, which have the effect of limiting the population; and even the English portion must be considered migratory, as it consists chiefly of military and government officers, who, after the lapse of certain intervals, exchange in regular order.

The only really beautiful walk in the place is Elliott's Gardens, situated at the south end of the town, laid out in a grand style, but disfigured by a tasteless bronze statue of General Elliott (afterwards Lord Heathfield), the heroic defender of Gibraltar in 1782. In the evenings, when one of the military bands is performing, the grounds are thronged by visitors on foot, horseback, and in carriages, whilst loving couples, of all races and grades, ramble in happy union through the shady avenues.

Near the gardens, towards the south, is a second quarter of the city, which mostly consists of government buildings. On the lowest terrace, which juts furthest into the sea, stands the lighthouse, on the celebrated "Europa Point."

SOUTH GATE, GIBRALTAR.

Gibraltar is connected with the Spanish continent by a sandy neck of land, called by the Spaniards El Istmo, and by the English "the neutral ground." It runs between the Mediterranean and the bay, one mile and a half in length and 2700 feet in breadth. This plain, which is not more than 10 feet above the water, owes its origin to the formation of a dune in the rocky bed of the ocean. Strong easterly gales seem by degrees to have accumulated the sand on this shallow run of the sea, which formerly separated Gibraltar from Spain.

A similar sand formation, near Catalan Bay, has attained the enormous height of 1000 feet. The Government have caused a portion of the sand, at the point where the isthmus joins the rock, to be excavated, and the water of the bay to be let in, so that there only remains a narrow low dyke of firm ground, which probably in time of war may be completely submerged. The stagnant water of this cut must, however, during the hot season, considerably increase the amount of fever.

From May till October the troops are encamped under tents on this isthmus, along which the neighbouring Spaniards come to market daily in crowds, with provisions of all kinds, displaying their rancour against the foreign intruders by endeavouring to make them pay the highest possible price for their produce.

The adjacent Spanish settlements, Campamiento and St. Roque, are much resorted to by excursionists from Gibraltar, and, during the summer, are selected by numerous families for even a longer stay; for however little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain affords, once arrived at Campamiento, the rider enjoys a most charming prospect, while there is probably no other point from which the isolated rock appears more grand or picturesque than from this neat little village.

In following the road that runs from Campamiento along the bay, the charming little town of Algeziras is reached. It lies on the western shore, exactly opposite Gibraltar, with which it is in regular correspondence by daily steamers.

Algeziras, formerly a poor fishing-village, has greatly increased in extent and prosperity, through the smuggling trade. This clean and pretty-looking place has a population of 10,000 souls, and makes by contrast an extremely pleasant impression on coming from the dismal and gloomy fortress. Men and things here have quite an Andalusian appearance. The small but neat one-storied houses are mostly painted a bright white, and ornamented with green verandahs; at almost every window beautiful flowers are exhibited; and the public promenade, shaded by fine trees, is delightful. The principal square is likewise planted with trees, and the lower stories of its houses are occupied by apothecaries' shops, coffee-rooms, confectioners, and one by a bookseller even. The churches appear in every respect insignificant; the hospital of San Juan de Dios, however, is an ancient and noble structure, the management of which is admirable. One of the arrangements here was eminently characteristic of Spain: in the ward for male patients stands at the upper end, by the side of the beds for common patients, a large, broad, elegantly-polished bedstead, which, the porter told us, was intended for "caballeros."

At a short distance from the town is the Amphitheatre Constantia, a large wooden booth, said to hold nearly 9000 spectators. It is chiefly used for bull-fights, which always attract a large audience. The aqueduct here, taken with the fine scenery around, forms an exceedingly picturesque object.

The inhabitants of Gibraltar sometimes make excursions to the peninsula of Ceuta (the Sebta of the Moors), situated on the opposite coast of Africa. The lighthouse of this little promontory has been lately furnished with a Fresnel apparatus, throwing out a most intense light, which is visible at a greater distance than any other observed during our voyage. This place, which is used by the Spaniards as a penal settlement, numbers 6500 inhabitants, and has a very indifferent harbour. The "rock people" also occasionally make excursions to Tangier, the most westerly town of the strait, and the most important as regards the commerce of Morocco.

A great number of steamers on their various routes touch at Gibraltar, for discharging and embarking freight and passengers, and to coal. The quantity of the latter thus shipped is estimated at 30,000 tons annually, all imported from England. There is also a regular correspondence by sailing vessels with all the leading Italian ports, and those of the Levant, as well as with Constantinople, Corfu, and Trieste.

Gibraltar being a free port, there are no customs' dues, except those on wines and spirits. All flags enjoy equal privileges, and in all disputes the English law decides. It is impossible to obtain a satisfactory statement of the amount of imports and exports, as no Custom-house exists, and the official reports merely give the number and nationality of the flags of the ships that arrive and depart. Smuggling is carried on to a great extent, and, being a lucrative trade, will continue to be so, as long as Spain retains her prohibitory duties on English goods.

The principal items of commerce in Gibraltar are English cotton goods, which are exported to Barbary in considerable quantities. To compete successfully with the English in this branch of trade would be very difficult for any other nation; but there are a great number of other articles which might find a ready sale on the African coast, and which are produced cheaper in several States of the European continent than in England; a consideration of so much the more importance in trading with the Moors, that these people regard lowness of price rather than the quality of the goods.

For this very reason, small but industrious Belgium has become a powerful competitor of mighty England. Thus, for instance, that country exports to Morocco, by way of Gibraltar, sugar, both in loaves and crushed,[8] hardware and cutlery, nails and screws, zinc, as well as all sorts of earthenware and glass. A portion of these articles goes into the neighbouring Spanish provinces.

[8] The superior quality and cheapness of Belgian sugars have of late in a great measure driven all others out of the market. It is also worthy of remark, that though Gibraltar is a British colony, all the accounts are kept in Spanish currency, and that there are more Spanish and French coins in circulation than English, which, when changed, even sustain a small loss. The Spanish measures and weights also are more in use than the English.

It is rather singular that the Belgian glass goods are in Gibraltar represented as of German manufacture, and thereby obtain a readier sale. This seems to be a proof that German (i. e. Bohemian) glass articles have been patronized before the Belgian, and lost the market only through the importation of the latter.

The intercourse between Gibraltar and Spain is carried on by coasting vessels, and by French as well as Spanish steamers, while the postal communication with Great Britain is conducted by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Packet Company.

Correspondence with Spain and other parts of the Continent is carried on overland, but is little to be relied upon, as, owing to the horrible condition of the Spanish roads, a delay of from six to eight days sometimes occurs in bad weather. Between Gibraltar and Cadiz, a distance of only sixty English miles, the letter-bag is said to have often been six days on its way.

The narrative of our stay at Gibraltar would be defective if we omitted mention of the numerous proofs of hospitality we experienced on all sides. Invitations were repeatedly received from the Convent (Government House), as well as from private families, and everywhere we experienced the most cordial reception.

We must in particular mention a visit paid to Captain Warden, the superintendent of the station and arsenal, as it afforded an opportunity of becoming acquainted with a feature in the English naval service, as practical as it is worthy of imitation. The superintendent of the arsenal inhabits a beautiful roomy house, belonging to the Government, situated in a large garden, well planted with splendid plane-trees, laurel, and orange-trees, and ornamented with most beautiful and odoriferous flowers. As a superintendent's income would not admit the outlay necessary properly to furnish so large an edifice, this is done by contractors, who let out the furniture at the rate of five per cent. annually on the value. This sum is deducted monthly from the pay. The same system is also adopted on board English men-of-war. The cabins of the officers are there furnished and provided with all the requisite comforts by contractors under the superintendence of the Admiralty. The value of each article is marked in a printed list deposited with the authorities. The captain pays a yearly rate of five per cent. on the valuation, and binds himself besides, in the event of the ship's being paid off, or of being appointed to another vessel, to return in good condition all the articles specified, and pay the value noted in the list for everything missing. This agreement is registered at the Admiralty, and the contractor receives the amount monthly. The advantage of such an arrangement to the commander of a ship will be more fully appreciated by those who, from personal experience, are aware of the expense attending an outfit, and the great loss which an officer transferred from one ship to another suffers through a sudden and forced sale of his property. The commander of a ship is moreover often not in a condition to spend for his personal outfit a sum of perhaps a thousand pounds sterling, but he can conveniently pay annually from £40 to £50 for the hire in monthly instalments; and it thus becomes easier for him to maintain the appearance due to his position.

The commander and officers of the Caroline, which, after an absence since the 12th of May, had rejoined us on the 23rd, were, like ourselves, received in the kindest manner by all the authorities of Gibraltar.