Transcriber’s Note: Illustrations have been moved to the end of each chapter.

Modern
HOUSE-PLANS
For
Everybody

FOR VILLAGE AND COUNTRY RESIDENCES
COSTING FROM TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY
DOLLARS TO EIGHT THOUSAND DOLLARS

Including
Full Descriptions and Estimates in Detail
of Materials, Labor,
Cost and Many Practical Suggestions

By
S. B. REED
Architect

ILLUSTRATED

New York
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY
1900

Copyright,
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
1900.

PREFACE.

In the modernized and revised edition of “House-Plans for Everybody,” but little attempt has been made to change the text or floor plans, as these are standard features requiring no revision. In the matter of outward dress, however, nearly all the elevations have been redrawn, with special regard to modern ideas and tastes, and in this respect it is specially new and commendable. The author has been guided in this work by many years’ experience, in planning and superintending the erection of country buildings, and has selected, from an extensive aggregation of original designs in his possession, such examples as seemed best to serve for purposes of simplicity, comfort, and economy. All the matters here presented are purely practical—well calculated to assist such as are contemplating the erection of either a village or country house. The plans embrace almost every variety of arrangement and style—each one is accompanied with a detailed description of its conveniences and construction—and its cost is shown by careful estimates, made to correspond with a uniform standard of prices, at present rates. To builders, this work will be valuable as a handbook of reference, to aid them when applied to for suggestions, either in the projection of new dwellings, or in the alteration of old ones, saving much time, study and calculations. The estimates of cost have been found correct as to totals, in the neighborhood of New York, and in many other localities builders have offered to duplicate the structures for the figures given.

S. B. Reed.

CONTENTS.

DESIGN I.
A COTTAGE, COSTING $250.

This plan was designed for a simple cottage, with sufficient accommodations for beginners in housekeeping with limited means. It is arranged as the Wing of a larger house to be erected in the future, as indicated in the dotted sketch adjoining the ground-plan. (The building, with the proposed enlargements complete, are given in [Design VIII.]) To a certain extent, one’s dwelling is an index of his character. Any effort at building expresses the owner’s ability, taste, and purpose. Every industrious man, starting in life, has a right, and should be encouraged, to anticipate prosperity, as the sure reward of honest worth; and he may, with propriety, give emphasis to such anticipations in every step, and with every blow struck. His dwelling may well express the progressive character, rather than a conclusive result. Beginning a home by starting with a room or two, as present means will allow, and increasing its dimensions as can be afforded, without the precarious aid of the money-lender, is honest, independent, and best provides against the ever-changing vicissitudes of life. The first step towards building is the preparation of plans. These should be sufficiently comprehensive to embrace all probable requirements. If only a small beginning is intended, it should be made to exhibit some degree of completeness, and be arranged to conform with the proposed future enlargements without serious alterations.... Exterior, ([fig. 1]).—In view of the relation this structure is to bear to a proposed main house, and to allow for the grading likely to be required in the ultimate completion of the whole, the foundation is made to show four feet above the ground. Such elevation adds to the prominence and good appearance of the building, and relieves the interior from the dampness likely to result from a closer contact with the soil. The style is simple, neat, and favorable for the using of ordinary materials and methods of construction.... Interior, ([fig. 2]).—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet. The entire floor space is utilized in the three convenient divisions—a Living-room, Bedroom, and a Large Pantry—with no chimney-breast, or stairway to interfere. Each room is pleasantly lighted, and the larger one has outside entrances front and rear. With a favorable location, the living-room may be made a very cheerful apartment.... Construction.—For economy, and in prospect of a future enlargement, that shall include ample cellars, such excavations are omitted for this building. The Foundations are brick piers, extending in the earth below the reach of frost, and 4 feet above, and the intermediate spaces are close-boarded, making an inclosure useful for many purposes. If desired, a sort of temporary cellar may be made, by deepening the central portion of this inclosure a foot or two, and banking the loose earth against the inside of the boarding. The Framework and other parts are substantially constructed, of materials as indicated in the appended estimate. The Chimney rests on the central partition (which is strengthened by the central pier of the foundation), and has two flues, with metal thimbles in the bottom of each—one to receive the stove-pipe from the living-room, and the other to serve as a ventilator for the bedroom. All of the materials are intended to be of merchantable quality. The siding, flooring, and casings are mill-dressed. The sizes of the sash are 2 ft. 8 in. × 5 ft. 2 in., and of the doors, 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in., all 1¼ in. thick, and may be found ready-made, and seasoned, in the stock of any regular dealer.... In the following estimate, the item of $20, for carpenter’s labor, may seem very little. This amount is allowed for preparing the building ready for the plasterer, and is entered in this manner for convenience in making the calculations. Adding to the above amount the cost of such labor in the “completed” parts, will make a total of $50.

Estimate, cost of materials and labor:

Fig. 1.—EXTERIOR OF COTTAGE.

Fig. 2.—INTERIOR OF COTTAGE.

DESIGN II.
COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $450 TO $550.

This plan of an inexpensive country dwelling is adapted to the wants of many people whose circumstances will not admit of a larger outlay. It was originally prepared and published in response to many calls for very low-priced country houses, “some as cheap as lumber and nails can make them.” The present one approximates that point, and will aid in devising others.... Two Elevations are given for the same ground-plan; the first ([fig. 3]) is for a one-story house of the simplest design, with an entrance door, a neat porch, and two windows in front. The rear is arranged similarly. The roof is conspicuous, in keeping with its importance. No matter how cheaply one proposes to build a house, it is essential not to slight the roof. A roof fit for a one-story cottage would answer equally well on a three-story house, so that relatively the cost of this part becomes greater, as the other parts become reduced and cheapened.... Ground-Plan, ([fig. 4]).—The accommodations are quite sufficient for a small family, consisting of three rooms, two lobbies, a kitchen-pantry, and a clothes-press. The Lobbies protect the rooms from direct contact with the outside doors. The Living-room is large, and accessible alike from each entrance; it has windows front and rear, and is convenient to the pantry; one entire side is unbroken, giving additional space for furniture, etc. The Pantry is shelved on two sides, and has a sash opening from the rear lobby, receiving light through the head-light over the rear entrance door. The front Bedroom is of good size—large enough to be used as a sitting-room; it adjoins the rear bedroom, and a clothes-press, and has a window facing the road. The rear Bedroom is the most retired, and has a window looking to the rear. The Press or closet is shelved and hooked in the usual manner. The door between the bedrooms might be dispensed with, but its convenience more than repays its cost.... Construction.—The Foundations are of common stone and mortar, laid in trenches, so as not to be affected by frost, and show 1½ feet above ground. The supports for the central partitions are stone piers, 4 feet apart. The Chimneys are of hard brick and mortar, passing through the first story in two flues, but joined together beneath the roof, and finished above as a single chimney. All the timber of the exterior frame is of 4 × 6-inch spruce. The sills are laid flatways on the foundation, and the upright frame-work stands upon them. The beams are of 1¼ × 8-inch spruce planks; they are notched 4 inches, to fit on the sill, and bear on the foundation, and are nailed to the studding and sills, binding the whole together. The ceiling-strips are of 1¼ × 5-inch spruce, resting on the ties, and nailed to the studding. The rafters are 2 × 4-inch wall-strips. All beams, studding, and rafters, are placed 16 inches apart from centers. The siding is of 10-inch dressed pine. The roof is covered with 18-inch pine shingles, laid on 1¼ × 2-inch shingling-lath. The porch-frame is of dressed and cornered timber, and is roofed with shingles on flooring laid face down. The flooring is 1⅛ × 9-inch spruce “milled.” The interior is plainly cased: for doors and windows, 3¼ inches wide; base, 6 inches; chair-back in the living-room, 3 inches; all beveled. All sashes and doors are 1¼ inch thick. The interior side-walls and ceilings are white-sand finished, on brown mortar and seasoned lath. Many efforts have been made to devise something cheaper than plastering for the inside lining of walls, but no substitute has yet been found to equal it in cheapness or durability. Plastering, as usually prepared and applied, conduces to the healthfulness of any apartment, emits no odor of mouldiness, has no attraction or harbor for vermin, is impervious to air, and a non-conductor of sound. Where linings of thin wood or paper are used, it is necessary to deafen the partitions and ceilings, otherwise they will be noisy. Sound made in any one part will reverberate through the house with drum-like suggestiveness. Most of such materials absorb moisture rapidly from the atmosphere, and when at any distance from the house-fires, so as not to be warmed and dried, the moisture is retained in them. This is especially the case in chambers and closets. Rather than seek a substitute for plastering, it is better to extend its use, and, where practicable, apply it as an outside covering, as well as for inside linings, as described for [Design VI.] The Second Elevation, ([fig. 5],) shows an enlargement of the first, by increasing the outlines of the roof, giving space for a Second Floor, ([fig. 6]). Such space, though not immediately required for bedrooms, would be valuable for many purposes. The appearance of the building is improved by the enlargement, and the extra cost will not exceed one hundred dollars.

Cost of Cottage—No. 1:

Extra cost of cottage—No. 2:

Fig. 3.—ELEVATION OF ONE-STORY HOUSE.

Fig. 4.—GROUND-PLAN OF HOUSE.

Fig. 5.—ELEVATION OF STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE.

Fig. 6.—SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN III.
A COUNTRY COTTAGE, COSTING $550.

These plans are for a low-priced house, similar in character to those in [Design II.], but differing entirely in outlines and arrangement, and embracing a much larger area of floor space, with increased accommodations.... Elevation, ([fig. 7].)—The Front is broken with angles, furnishing a greater number of vertical lines, thus giving relief from the depressing appearance that would otherwise be manifest. The roof projections are proportionate, with simple finish. The cornices of the central or main part are the most prominent, and have plain trusses. The gable openings supplying ventilation between the ceilings and roof.... Ground-Plan, ([fig. 8]).—The interior contains five quite ample rooms, conveniently arranged, besides a lobby, pantry, and two closets. Hight of ceilings in two principal rooms, 9½ feet, in the side extensions, 6 feet at the plate, following the rafters to the center of the rooms, and from thence are leveled across at the hight of 9 feet. The front entrance is through a lobby. (If desired to economize further, the front stoop and one door may be saved, by putting an arch in place of the front door, making a recessed porch of the lobby.) The Parlor has two front windows, and a closet, and adjoins the kitchen and two bedrooms. The Kitchen is large, has two windows, an open fire-place, and adjoins a commodious pantry, and a bedroom. The Pantry has a large window, and is shelved on one side and end. A convenient Clothes-press opens from the right-hand bedroom. The Chimney is near the center of the house, insuring much saving of heat. The interior of this house may be comfortably warmed from a single fire, by placing a Radiator in the parlor, and leading the fire-draught from the kitchen stove through it. As the peculiar form and construction of this radiator is comparatively new, having originated with me, a description is here given, which will enable any skillful sheet-iron worker to make one (see [figs. 9 and 10]): A, is the parlor side of the chimney-breast; B, the kitchen side; C, chimney-flue; D, kitchen fire-place, containing kitchen-stove; E, smoke-pipe leading from the stove through the throat-piece, into the chimney-flue; F, F, stove-pipe branches passing through the back of the fire-place, and connecting the smoke-pipe, E, with the radiator; G, interior section of radiator; H, face of radiator; I, partition within radiator. The draught is regulated by a damper, J, in the smoke-pipe E, between the branches, F, F, and is forced through the radiator as required. The radiator may be made of any size desired to fit the mantle-opening, and if neatly constructed of Russian iron, will be quite ornamental. The partition, I, is 5 inches wide, and extends to within 6 inches of the bottom at either side, has turned edges, and is riveted to the front and back. In use, to start the fire, a direct draught is made by opening the damper, J, after which it may be closed to turn the draught through the lower branch-pipe into the central part of the radiator, where it descends, passing the lower ends of the partition, I, into the side passages, where it ascends and enters the upper branch-pipe, leading to the smoke-pipe, E. The bottom should have a collar to slide within the upright part, to facilitate cleaning when necessary. If there is no hearth-stone to set the radiator upon, the bottom may be filled with an inch deep of coarse plaster, which will make it safe even on a carpet. In setting the radiator, an inch or two of open space should be left between it and the chimney-back (just the thickness of the interior wall-plates of the mantle, against which the radiator should join.) Into the bottom of this space, air may be introduced from the outside of the house, through a two-inch pipe. The air thus let in becomes heated, and escapes around the margin, furnishing a pure healthful supply to the room.... Construction.—The estimate annexed, includes materials, and methods of construction similar to those described for [Design II.] The form and arrangement of this building admits of its being erected in sections; the central or main part may be first put up, and the side extensions added as means or necessity requires or allow. In localities where it is difficult to get dressed lumber, rough boards may be used for the siding, put on vertically, and battened, but in this case it would be practical to paint the cornices and other dressings only with lead and oil—using a lime-wash for the rough work. A durable wash may be made by slaking freshly-burned lump-lime in hot brine. This can be colored by adding dry-stainers as desired, and may be applied with an ordinary whitewash brush. Such work would greatly reduce the cost, and, if properly done, add a feature of rustic beauty, quite becoming in this class of building.

Estimate cost of materials and labor:

Fig. 7.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 8.—GROUND-PLAN.

Fig. 9.—RADIATOR.

Fig. 10.-RADIATOR.

DESIGN IV.
A COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $550 TO $700.

This plan of a low-priced dwelling is adapted to the wants of many living in the country. It will accommodate a small family well, and has a pleasing appearance.... Exterior, ([fig. 11].)—The Front has a sufficient variety of parts to insure a fair degree of picturesqueness. An allowable amount of neat tracery is admitted in the composition of the gables, and between the piazza columns, to give an expression of taste and cheerfulness. More than this would not accord with the utility and economy especially aimed at in these low-priced plans. If intended for a Summer Cottage, or Gate-lodge, for persons of larger means, the matter of exterior dress would assume quite a different aspect, and admit of more liberal treatment.... Ground-Plan, ([fig. 12].)—The arrangement shown is adapted to an eastward frontage, placing the Entrances and the Living-room on the pleasant side, where least exposed to northerly winds and cold. Should an opposite frontage be selected, the plan may be suited to it by reversing the sides, as this would be reflected if held before a mirror. The hight of the ceilings are 10 feet. The front entrances open directly from the piazza to the parlor and living-room. These entrances may be protected in winter by a sash inclosure, forming a pleasant vestibule of a part of the piazza. The principal rooms are a Parlor, Kitchen, and two Bedrooms. The Parlor is in front of the main building, and of sufficient size for the ordinary uses of such an apartment. The Kitchen is intended as the Living-room, where the family, maintaining the simplicity of cottage life, spend much of their in-door time, sharing together the domestic cares and comforts. It is sufficiently spacious to admit of the requisite furniture, and allow of the ordinary family gathering without crowding. It has three windows; if desired, the upper part of the front door may have sashes, giving views in three directions. The pantry and lobby, at the rear, are of equal size, both opening from the kitchen. The two Bedrooms adjoin each other (but have no communication between them in the plan. This may be arranged as desired.) One opens from the parlor, the other from the kitchen, and each has a closet. The Chimney is placed between the kitchen and parlor, with an open fire-place on the kitchen side. The method of heating, described for [Design III.], would insure the comfortable warming of both of the principal rooms from one kitchen fire.... Cellar, ([fig. 13].)—Hight, 6½ feet. The dimensions embrace the space below the kitchen and the bedrooms; it has three windows and an outside entrance. The part under the parlor is unexcavated.... Construction.—The Foundation-walls are of broken stone and mortar, and show 2 feet above ground. Those under the parlor are laid in trenches, extending below the reach of frost. The chimney is of hard brick and mortar. The frame-work, roofing, and exterior plastering, are similar to those described for [Design VI.] The gables are inclosed with vertical boarding, having their lower ends cut to pattern, and are battened over the joints. The ornamental verges in the gable-cornices are of pine boards, and, being of simple design, are readily made, and put in position while building. A pleasing effect is produced by “lining off” the surface of the exterior plastering into courses or squares. This is easily done with a “straight-edge,” and an S shaped iron while finishing. The final “Stearate” covering (see [Design VI.]) may be divided and shaded in two parts, and so applied as to give the alternate squares slight changes of shade. The best results may be obtained from exterior plastering where properly done. It is impervious to either air or water, and therefore equals the more expensive methods of inclosures for houses of this character. It should not be attempted over horizontal lines of framework, as the shrinking and consequent contraction will cause a bulging and cracking of the plaster at those points. Whenever obliged to cross such timbers, the upright framework must be halved on to them, and continued in whole lengths, to prevent such contractions. All joinings with the exterior wood-finish must be carefully made, especially at the top, to prevent water from entering, and running down behind the walls. Wide projectives of cornices afford a valuable protection for such walls against driving storms. Exterior plastering may be done in any season that is free from frost. An ordinary rain will do no injury to either of the two coats of plaster after they have become “set.” The “Stearate” should be applied as soon as the plastering is thoroughly dried.

Estimate for cost of materials and labor:

Fig. 11.—FRONT ELEVATION OF HOUSE.

Fig. 12.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 13.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

DESIGN V.
A CONVENIENT HOUSE, COSTING $650.

The accompanying plans were designed for a simple, compact, and economical house, and will be appreciated by any one who may desire to know just how little is required to build a comfortable home. They provide ample room for a small family.... The Cellar extends under the whole house, the walls are built as shown in the details of foundation and frame, given in [Design VI.], with 3 feet of masonry and 3 feet of frame-work.... The First Story contains a good-sized Hall, Parlor, and Kitchen, or Living-room, with two closets, pump, and sink. The stairs to the cellar lead directly from the kitchen, passing down under the stairs in the main hall. A “fire-place heater” can be put in the parlor fire-place, which will also warm the chamber above. This method of heating is economical, and occupies but little room.... The Second Story has three good-sized rooms, two closets, and small hall, in the main house, and an attic over the kitchen. The floor of the attic is one foot lower than that of the main house; this gives valuable room for storage, etc.... The hight of the first story of the main house is 8 feet 6 inches; of the second story, 7 feet. The hight of the kitchen ceiling is 7½ feet. The attic is arranged to have just standing room in the center.... A great saving of time and trouble is made, when openings are provided for regular sizes of sash, blinds, and doors, as they may be obtained of seasoned and well-made stock, at any time, from any dealer in such materials. These plans are drawn with reference to such regular sizes, viz.: the first-story windows are 2 ft. 7 in. × 5 ft. 6 in.; second story, 2 ft. 7 in. × 4 ft. 6 in.; cellar, 2 ft. × 2 ft. 8 in., all 1¼ inch thick. All principal windows should have their frames made with pockets and pulleys, and the sash hung with iron weights and good cord. The cost for the addition of these necessary parts, beyond what is required for the plain frame, is about as follows, for each window of ordinary size: 4 pulleys, (at 40c. per doz.) 14c.; 20 lbs. iron weights, 2½c. per lb., 50c.; ½ lb. sash-cord, 16c. per lb., 8c; 1 doz. screws, ⅞ in., 35c. per gross, 3c.; labor putting in pockets, pulleys, etc., 20 c.—Total, 95 cents, and when once done, will need no further attention or expense, while the house lasts. The satisfaction of having neat-fitting, easy-working sash, where the upper, or lower one, may be opened at will, is great. The saving of little fingers, and older nerves, to say nothing of shattered sash and glass, more than repays the extra cost of hanging sash.... The front, rear, and parlor Doors are 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × 1½ in.; other first-story doors, 2 ft. 6 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × 1¼ in.; second-story doors, 3 ft. 6 in. × 6 ft. 6 in. × 1¼ in.; all 4-paneled, and neatly moulded. The 1½-inch doors have mortise-locks; other doors rim-locks, all with porcelain knobs and escutcheons.... Blinds are included for the first and second stories, in the estimate appended, at an average cost of $2.40 per pair, and may be omitted, but are recommended as useful; they protect the sash from storms, and can be operated to give almost any desired light or shade in the rooms.... Many people may be in circumstances that would justify the building of one part of a house first, to be occupied as a temporary residence until means and opportunity warrant the building of the whole. A newly-married couple could arrange to have the kitchen part built as a residence for a season, rather than forego the opportunity of setting out trees, vines, and shrubbery, planting, and otherwise developing their grounds. They would then be near the work when building the main part, to superintend it, and care for materials, saving much that is often wasted, or lost. The wing, or kitchen part, could be built at a cost of about $185, so arranged as that the main house could be joined to it at any time—or, what would be better, the main house may be built first, at a cost of about $650, and the kitchen added at convenience.... The exterior dressing of cornice, window-caps, and stoop, are decided in their character for simplicity and boldness, giving a generous and finished appearance to the whole.... Novelty Siding, [fig. 18], is mentioned in many of the estimates for these houses. This form of siding I first introduced some sixteen years ago, since which time it has grown into general favor and use in this neighborhood. It has the following merits to recommend it: 1st, It is easily put on by ordinary mechanics. 2d, When properly nailed to the frame, it strengthens it, so as to make bracing of the frame almost unnecessary. 3d, The spaces between the studding, when the interior is plastered, are each air-tight compartments, containing only stationary air, which is a non-conductor of cold (or heat), thus protecting the inside wall from the extreme changes of outward temperature. 4th, A cheaper quality of lumber can be used, the more cross-grained the materials, the less likely they are to check, or shrink, and any small, sound knots are easily covered with shellac before painting, which closes them effectually. 5th, The general surface is even, so that any brackets or other ornamentation can be put on without the trouble and difficulty of “scribing” them up to the clap-boarding.... The Shingling referred to in the estimate is of 18-inch pine shingles, and may be laid 5¾ inch to the weather, and secured with large-headed “shingle-nails.” It is best in laying shingles to lap at one-third the breadth, never in the center, for should one shingle check in the center, as they are liable to do, an opening is made through the three courses, and a leaky roof will be the result. “Shingling-lath” 1¼ × 2 in., with the lower edge placed just where the buts of the shingles would cover, will allow air to freely circulate on both sides of the shingles, and preserve them one-third longer than when laid on close planking, which holds the moisture, and assists decay of every part of the roof.... Gutters.—The old wooden gutter has nearly gone into disuse, and always seemed a barrier to any satisfactory finish of cornice. It was difficult to get timber of sufficient width for projections, and in such cases, the cornices were proportioned by boxing off, and building up around this “gutter-stick,” which was bad construction—the outer-edge of the gutter, being higher than the edge next the house, would cause the water, during heavy storms, or when the leader was choked up, to flow over against the frame-work of the building, which was one of the most frequent causes of decay and settling in the older houses in this country.—The tin-lined “box” and “trough” gutters are often troublesome; the tin can not be laid in them except in long lengths, which have been soldered together while flat and smooth. To lay these long lengths into the ready-formed gutter, requires much bending and hammering, which breaks the best tin at the soldered joints, on the under-side, where it is impossible to repair it, so that, while it may not appear at once to leak, it is sure to do so soon, to be discovered after the cornice has been swelled out of shape or destroyed. The gutter that I have adopted in all cases where practicable (see section, [fig. 19]), either for shingles or slate, is made of charcoal-tin, 14 inches wide, in lengths as long as can be well handled. One edge is turned or rolled up around a ⅝ iron rod, which makes a strong edge. Then a bend is made at 3½ inches from the turned edge, forming a right angle the whole length. This is laid on the second course of shingles, with one end lower than the other, so as to give a good run for the water. The ends are turned up, where required, to stop the water, and a tube put through the cornice in the usual manner.... For Tin Roofs, having a pitch of at least one inch to the foot, the gutters are formed in a similar manner, with the flat, or bottom part, about ½ inch wide, making a flange, which is soldered to the roof near the eaves, to a line drawn at an angle to make one end lower than the other, as for shingle roofs. This is the simplest and best kind of gutter, will outlast any other, and in the event of a possible damage, or leakage, no harm will be done beyond the loss or waste of the water that runs off over the eaves. It can be easily repaired, or replaced at any time, without interfering with the principal roof, and it saves the trouble and expense of building and boxing for gutters, or of making cornices with special reference to them, and it is cheaply constructed.—Estimate of Cost of building by this plan in the vicinity of New York City:

Fig. 14.—FRONT ELEVATION.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 15.—CELLAR.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 16.—FIRST STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 17.—SECOND STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 18.—“NOVELTY SIDING.”

Fig. 19.—PORTION OF ROOF AND GUTTER.

DESIGN VI.
A HOUSE COSTING $700.

The plans here given are of simple design, intended to meet the large and increasing demand for low-priced country or village houses, having at the same time some architectural beauty. Without this latter feature, a comfortable house of this size can, in many places, be erected for much less than $700 even.... The house here described provides for as much room as a small family would require, while at the same time it admits of future enlargement, as one’s necessity or means may indicate, by additions, ells, or wings, at either side, or rear. In all cases, when planning small houses, it is best to provide for such enlargements. The triplet window in front is so arranged that it can be readily changed to a bay-window, when that improvement can be afforded, without marring the rest of the wood-work, or the harmony of the front elevation.... The Cornice of the main building is bracketed, and projects sufficient to relieve it of the stunted look so common to country houses. The brackets are made of 2 × 4-inch timber, in three pieces each, mitred to the angles required, and nailed together (see [fig. 25]), making an effective support and pleasant appearance.... A large saving in expense of foundations is secured by the following method of construction (see section of foundation and frame, [fig. 24]). The excavation is made for the cellar 2½ feet deep. A foundation of 8-inch brick-work, 3 feet high, or 6 inches above the level of the ground only, is required. A sill of 3 × 8-inch timber is laid on, and “flush” with the inside of the wall, to provide nailing for the wainscoting of the basement, if it is afterwards finished off.... The beams or joists for the first floor are supported by a plank-strip five inches wide, let into the inside of the frame at a proper hight, and securely fastened with heavy nails. The other parts of the framing are executed, and the whole raised, in the usual manner.... The inclosing, or siding, below the first story, is of 10-inch boards rabbeted and cross-grooved in imitation of large stone-work, and painted in contrast with the principal body of the house, and the water-table is put just above them.... Many small houses in the country are built without any permanent foundation, but are temporarily supported on posts set in the ground, and “boarded down.” They are always shaky, and doubtful while they stand, and are frequently blown over altogether. As will be readily seen, the above method provides for the saving of one-half of the mason-work in the foundation. In many places stone is abundant, and will answer the same purpose as brick in this case, except for the 6 inches above ground. The laying up of a single-face wall, 2½ feet high, of rough stone and mortar, would cost but a trifle. If the cellar should be finished at any time for basement purposes, these walls would be much drier and more healthful than when the walls are entirely of masonry. In this case it would be preferable to have the foundation walls 6 inches higher, so as to have the basement rooms 7 feet in the clear.... Several houses have been built on this plan in villages, and in most cases it has been decided not to have any rear outside door for the first story ([fig. 22]), but to wait until a kitchen could be finished in the front part of the cellar, when the common entrance would be by the area to the kitchen. In the plan ([fig. 22]), we have indicated two rear windows, but a door may take the place of either of them. We have also indicated by dotted lines where pantry, sink, etc., may be placed in the corner, according to the wishes of the proprietor.... There is but one chimney. The parlor is heated by running a stove-pipe through earthen thimbles placed in the partitions under the stairs, to the chimney, which is perfectly safe, and no heat is lost. When desired, a fire-place, or stove-pipe flue, may be carried up through the parlor, as well as through the living-room, and the two be brought together above the stairs into one chimney.... The Second Story, ([fig. 23]), may be divided into three rooms, the front one being 12 × 15 feet; or, if preferred, this front room may be divided into two smaller rooms, as indicated by the dotted lines. One may be 8 × 12, and the other 6½ × 12. The latter would be large enough for an ordinary bed (4½ × 6½ feet), with stand or chair by the window; and in this case a small closet could be cut off from the corner, opening into the large room, as shown by the dotted lines.

Cost.—The following estimate in detail, at present prices, near this city, will enable any one to determine the cost of building by this plan. Allowance can be made for any difference in cost of materials or labor as required in other localities:

Fig. 20.—ELEVATION OF HOUSE.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 21.—CELLAR.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 22.—FIRST STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 23.—SECOND STORY.—Scale, 8 feet to 1 inch.

Fig. 24.

Fig. 25.

DESIGN VII.
COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $750 TO $1,050.

These plans represent a commodious dwelling house, constructed with especial regard for economy and utility, and they will be appreciated by those desiring to provide a comfortable, permanent shelter for home by the use of limited means.... Elevation, (fig 26).—In preparing plans for “low-priced” houses, the simplest outlines are indicated. Having to combine usefulness and small outlay, there can be no latitude for architectural display, beyond mere matters of accommodation and completeness. The exterior of this example fairly expresses its domestic purpose. The breadth of the front, the preponderance of horizontal lines, and the hooded roof, are each indicative of strength, and suggest its adaptation to rural situations. The satisfactory appearance of this house will greatly depend on its location. The best results would be obtained by placing it on a slight knoll, giving it additional altitude. This would prevent its being obscured by shrubbery and trees, which are indispensable accompaniments of a properly developed homestead.... Cellar, ([fig. 27]).—Hight, 6½ feet. It has three windows, an outside entrance, and stairway leading to the kitchen above.... First Story, ([fig. 28].)—Hight of ceiling, 10 feet. The accommodations, consisting of five rooms, a pantry, and two closets, are adapted to a good-sized family. The Parlor and Kitchen are the principal rooms, and occupy the middle portion, their sides being protected by other rooms, and, having the fire-place between them, they are easily warmed. The device for heating described for [Design III.] would serve admirably in this house. Two Bedrooms adjoin the parlor. Many might choose to have double doors entering these bedrooms, to allow all three rooms to be used together occasionally. This would not preclude the use of the smaller ones as bedrooms, or, if preferred, as a sewing-room and a library. The Kitchen is the largest apartment, and has doors leading to the pantry, bedroom, parlor, stairway, and the rear entrance. The outside or entrance doors may be protected in severe seasons by storm-doors hung to open outward, with loose joint-buts to allow of their ready removal. The rear veranda is similar to the front one shown on the elevation.... Second Story, ([fig. 29]).—The front portion only is finished, with ceilings 8 feet high, and is divided into two chambers and four closets. The rear portion is left unfinished, to be used as an open garret. The space above the ceiling of the finished portion may be floored over with boards, to serve for storage of quilting-frames, trunks, etc.... Construction.—The excavations for the cellar are 4 feet deep. The foundation-walls are of broken stone, laid in mortar, and show 2 feet above the earth-grade. A strong girder, resting on large posts, or columns of stone or brick, supports the center of the building. In setting the girder, it should be elevated from ½ to ¾ of an inch in the center, rising gradually from each end, to allow for settling, which invariably occurs from shrinkage of the interior frame-work. The timber for the frame-work is indicated in the estimates below, and is substantially framed together. All the outside studding is halved over the principal timbers, to prevent vertical shrinkage from affecting the exterior covering of the side-walls. The exterior covering is of lath and plaster, as follows: all cornices and other dressings, and the roof, should first be completed—and all window and door frames set and cased. The outside frame should then be thoroughly lathed outside and inside. All this is to prevent jarring or pounding on these parts during the application or setting of the plaster. The plaster is made in the usual manner of fresh lime and sharp sand, with half a bushel of hair to each barrel of lime used, and allowed to lay two weeks to insure a thorough slaking and permeation of the lime. It is then applied in two coats—the first a “scratch,” the second a “browning.” The surface is floated with a darby, (not trowelled). After having stood a sufficient time to become dry, the whole is covered with a preparation called “Stearate of Lime,” using an ordinary white-wash brush. The formula for making this stearate of lime (known only to a few, who have treated it as a secret,) is here published for the first time, and it will be understood by those familiar with the nature and operation of slaking lime. The ingredients are simply fresh-burned finishing-lime, using the lumps only, unrendered beef-suet, and hot water. It is necessary that these parts be kept in lively motion while dissolving, or they will be entirely destroyed by “burning.” The usual process is to sink a large barrel, having an open end, 2 feet in the ground, pounding the earth around to make it firm. An upright piece, 4 inches in diameter, and 6 feet long, is set upright in the center of the barrel, and held in position by cleats at the bottom and top, leaving the upright free to turn. Arms are put through the upright within the barrel, and a cross-bar or lever is attached to the upper end—the whole making an apparatus similar to a “clay-mill.” One bushel of lime, 20 lbs. of suet (chopped fine), and a barrel of boiling water are provided; and while one works the “mill,” another feeds alternately lime, suet, and hot water. This quantity of material, costing about $2, will make a full barrel of the preparation. Any desired shade may be afterwards given by adding stainers. This mixture is applied while hot—two coats being necessary to insure a thorough covering. This will also be found a valuable preparation for covering exterior brick or concrete work. It is impervious to water, and will outlast any of the paints prepared for such purpose. All other information concerning the finish of this house may be inferred upon a careful study of the following estimates.—Estimate cost of materials and labor:

Fig. 26.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 27.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 28.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 29.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN VIII.
A COTTAGE, COSTING $800 TO $1,050.

This design is an enlargement of the small cottage described in [Design I.] The arrangements are very complete in convenience, appearance, and economy.... Exterior, ([fig. 30]).—The outlines and style are simple. The front is enlivened by the Porch, Bay-Window, and other projections. The details of finish are of neat design, and in harmony, giving an agreeable expression of taste and refinement—features especially pleasing in cottage architecture.... Cellar, ([fig. 31]).—Hight in clear, 6½ feet. It is under the main building only; has two windows, and stairs leading to the first story. It contains 378 feet area, giving abundant room for all ordinary requirements.... First Story, ([fig. 32]).—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet. The best use is made of the space by having but few divisions, leaving good-sized rooms. The Hall is small, but is conveniently arranged to answer all necessary purposes. It is entered from the front porch, and communicates directly with the parlor and dining-room, and by the main stairs with the second story. There is sufficient room for a hat-rack at the right of the front door. The Parlor is of fair size, the large bay-window adding materially to its area and cheerfulness. With very little expense in furniture, this apartment may be made pleasant and cosey. The Dining-room extends the whole width of the house, and has a window at each end. It is conveniently arranged, with doors opening from the hall, parlor, kitchen, pantry, and to the stairs. The Kitchen is commodious and pleasant; has three windows, an outside rear entrance, and adjoins the dining-room, pantry, and bedroom. The Pantry is sufficiently large and convenient to answer the requirements of both dining-room and kitchen. It has a small window, and is thoroughly shelved. The Bedroom opens directly from the kitchen. Its purpose in the partial erection (as shown in [Design I.]) may be changed in the completed building here described by making it an auxiliary of the kitchen for the coarser work; or, if needed, it may still be used as a bedroom for help.... Second Story, ([fig. 33]).—Hight of ceiling, 8 feet. There is a hall, two chambers, two bedrooms, and two closets, in this story, and no waste room. The Hall is just large enough for convenience. The Chambers are of ample dimensions, with a chimney between them, admitting the use of stoves when required.... Construction.—The Foundations for the main house are of broken stone and mortar, showing three feet above ground, neatly pointed where exposed to sight. The Wing is supported on piers, as described in [Design I.] Girders (shown on the cellar-plan by dotted lines), supported on strong posts, carry the central portions of the building. The shortness of the spans between bearings allow very light floor-beams. It is, however, important that the beams should be bridged to secure uniformity of strength, and prevent vibrations. The Frame is constructed in the usual manner—all the ties, girts, and headers being “framed in.” The inclosing is sufficiently indicated in the estimate. The front windows have semi-circular heads outside. In their construction the frames and sash are square, to admit ordinary curtain fixtures on the inside. The circular head is outside of, and “planted” on the flat casing, or “blind-strip,” and is made perfectly tight by a flange of tin. The additional expense of such circular finish is but trifling, compared with its good appearance. The side and rear windows have square heads, with rabbeted drips. Blinds are intended for all windows above the cellar. Ventilators are placed in each gable. The Porch has boxed pedestals and columns, scroll-sawed balusters, and circular spandrels. The inside walls and ceilings are “sand-finished” on two coats of brown mortar. The main stairs are constructed with a quarter circle, and winders at the top. These winders extend beyond the hall into the ceilings of the dining-room (as sketched), but do not interfere with its use, or seriously injure its appearance. The Bay-Window is neatly arched on the inside. Marble mantels are put in the parlor and dining-room, and shelves in the chambers. The second story-hall is lighted through the door (sash) of the front bedroom.... Suggestions.—This plan was arranged to suit a village lot 25 feet in width, leaving a passage-way at the side. This necessitated placing the wing at the rear of the main house. If there is more ground, the wing may be placed at the right of the main part, facing the road. The communications between the dining-room and wing would be still similar to those shown. The window at the right of the dining-room would be placed in the rear. These changes entail no extra expense, if determined on before commencing to build.—Estimate cost of materials and labor for main house:

Fig. 30.—FRONT ELEVATION.

Fig. 31.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 32.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 33.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN IX.
COUNTRY OR VILLAGE COTTAGE, COSTING $1,000.

This plan is designed to answer many requests for a “cosey and homelike Cottage, suited to the wants of Mechanics and Laboring People, costing from $700 to $1,000.” It is best adapted to a westward frontage—with the hall, entrances, and porches protected from the north, but may be easily adapted to an opposite frontage by reversing the plan—placing the hall, etc., on the opposite side of the main house. The width, 21 feet, adapts it to a 25-foot village lot, leaving a side passage to the rear.... Exterior, ([figs. 34 and 35].)—The style of any building is determined by the form of its roof; the steep and hooded style in this design accords fully with domestic feelings and artistic sentiments, and is growing in public favor for suburban structures. Compared with the usual Mansard style is more practical, less expensive, and serves equally well. The side-angles, porches, bay-window, cornices, and chimneys, each of simple construction, make up a pleasing variety of parts. All superfluous ornamentation is avoided. A too common fault prevails in villages, and even in the country, of building close up to the street lines. A clear depth of at least 20 feet in front should be devoted to a flower-garden, shrubbery, and vines, for flowers are proper accessories of cottage adornment, and architectural ornamentation can never compensate for their absence.... Cellar, ([fig. 36].)—Hight of ceiling, 6½ feet. It extends under the front half of the building, giving an average area of 11½ × 15 feet—quite sufficient for ordinary requirements. It has two small front windows. A good ventilation may be had through the chimney; openings in the rear foundation allow a circulation of air over the unexcavated portion.... First Story, ([fig. 37].)—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet; is divided into a hall, parlor, living-room, rear entry, and a closet. The Hall, entered from the front porch, connects through doors with the parlor, living-room, and rear entry, and contains the main stairs. The Parlor has a large bay-window in the front, opposite to which is a marble shelf resting on stucco trusses. It communicates with the living-room and hall. The remaining wall spaces are unbroken, for furniture and wall ornaments. The Living-room is a little larger than the parlor, has two windows, an open fireplace, a closet, and doors leading to the front hall, parlor, and rear entry. The rear entry is under the platform of the main stairs; is divided from the front hall, and is to be used as the common entrance. It has doors leading from the front hall, living-room, rear porch, and the cellar stairs. The parlor may be warmed by placing a radiator under the marble shelf, and passing the smoke-pipe from the living-room through it, as for [Design III.] The cost of such a radiator is $6.... Second Story, ([fig. 38].)—Hight of center ceilings, seven feet; hight of side-breast walls, 3½ feet. The stairs leading to this story are made with a platform, placed three risers below the upper landing, which allows for the required head-room. The divisions provide for four rooms, a hall, and two closets; the large chamber has a double window in front, a marble shelf on the chimney-breast, and a closet; the hall bedroom is designed to be used in connection with the large chamber as a child’s room.... Construction.—The excavation for the cellar is made four feet deep, and for the rear foundation walls one foot. The loose earth is graded around the foundation at completion, leaving 1½ feet of the foundation exposed to sight on the outside. The foundation walls are of broken stone, laid in common mortar, 16 inches thick, and neatly pointed where exposed to sight, and are generally even with the framework on the outside. Provision is made for the cellar stairway by extending the adjoining walls beyond the inside of the frame to the hight of the ground, and finishing above with brick-work. The chimney is started with the cellar walls, and arranged with two continuous flues to the top. Side-openings are made under the cap by inserting 6-inch earthen thimbles on each side of the flues. The top courses of brick-work are laid across the entire chimney, making a solid and more lasting cap. Sheet-iron thimbles are put in the chimneys adjoining the parlor and front chamber. The framing, inclosing, flooring, etc., are done in a substantial manner, of materials indicated in the estimate below. Beams placed two feet apart from centers; rafters and studding 16 inches apart. The cornice-trusses are made of 2 × 4-inch timber, as shown in [Design VI.], and the shingling and gutters in [Design V.] Sash, 1¼ inch thick, glazed with second quality of French sheet-glass, counter-checked, and hung to iron balance-weights, with good cord. Doors 4-paneled each, for the outside and rooms in first story, and 1½ inches thick; all others 1¼ inches thick, moulded, with double faces. The main stairs has a 7-inch octagon newel, a 2¼ × 4-inch moulded rail, and 2-inch turned balusters, all of black walnut. The side-walls and ceilings of the two full stories are white-sand finished, on one coat of “laid-off” brown mortar. This is the favorite mode of plastering through the Eastern States, while in the neighborhood of New York two coats of brown mortar are usually applied. Where one-coat work is properly done, more hair is mixed in the mortar, increasing its strength. The same quantity of mortar is used as for two coats. The advantages claimed for the “one-coat work” are, a saving of one-third in labor, and obviating the delay for the additional coat to dry. All the wood-work usually painted, and the chimney-top, have two coats of best American lead and raw linseed-oil. For more extended remarks on painting, see article with [Design XII.]

Estimate of materials required, and total cost.

Fig. 34.—FRONT VIEW OF COTTAGE.

Fig. 35.—SIDE VIEW OF COTTAGE.

Fig. 36.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 37.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 38.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN X.
A HOUSE COSTING $1,100.

This economical cottage has ample, convenient apartments for a medium-sized family, and is adapted to either a village or a more rural location. A 25 × 100-feet lot will contain such a house, besides the needed side alleyway to the rear. Those contemplating the erection of low-priced, tasteful cottages in duplication, either for selling, or by coöperation as in Building Associations, will find this plan suited to their wants.... Exterior, ([fig. 39]).—The front presents a graceful, trim, outline, with a neat and pleasant arrangement of openings. The Porch fits in an angle, with its steps projecting beyond the principal building, providing an appropriate entrance to the house. The large Bay-window is the most imposing feature of the front, is expressive of comfort and cheerfulness, and gives a good appearance and character to the whole building. The principal cornices are neatly trussed, and have such “spread” as gives a finished and bold appearance to the roofs. It has such proportions and genteel style, that if near a more formidable or costly residence, it would not disgrace it.... Cellar, ([fig. 40.])—Hight 7 ft. Its outlines correspond with the ground-plans of the principal building; it is three feet below the general surface of the ground, and four feet above, and has an outside entrance door, three good sized cellar windows, two of which are in the front, and one at the side, contiguous to the coal-bin. It is accessible from the first story by a plain stairway. If desirable at any time, a pleasant basement room may be finished in the front part, at a small cost.... First Story, ([fig. 41]).—Hight of ceilings, 9½ feet. It is divided into three rooms of nearly equal size, with a Hall and two Closets. The Bay-window adds considerable to its area, making it the largest and pleasantest room. The Dining-room adjoins the parlor, and may be used with it as occasion requires by opening the folding doors. Each of these rooms has neat marble mantles, and opens into the front hall. The Kitchen connects with the dining-room, and is provided with a pantry, pump, sink, two windows, and an outside door leading to the rear yard. When houses are built on single village lots, it is usual to arrange for one “blank” side, as in this plan, but where more ground is allowed, it is desirable that openings should be made for at least one window in each story of this side, as they would add to the cheerfulness of the interior, and give a better appearance to the outside. Two windows are thus indicated by dotted lines, one for the dining-room, and one for the interior chamber, though the latter is lighted from the roof, as noted. It may be advisable even to put two other windows on this side of the house, for the outside general good appearance, or blind-windows may be put in at small expense, for the same purpose.... Second Story, ([fig. 42]).—Ceilings 8 feet high. The divisions are very simple, making four rooms, three closets, a stairway, and passage leading to each room.... Construction.—Reference is had in this plan to what is known in the trade as “piece-lumber”—the joists, wall-strips, boards, etc., being generally in lengths of 13 feet each. There is great economy in being able to use such standard lumber, without cutting to waste. [Figure 43] shows how a neat, cosey cottage-frame may be cheaply constructed almost wholly of such 13-feet materials. But there is a decided preference for full chamber ceilings, and as the difference in cost would not exceed $60, it is best to make the house two full stories high. The principal frame is of 3-inch timber, with studding of 2 × 3 inch. This thickness of the frame-work secures some 220 feet more interior space to the rooms, than in the use of 4-inch timber, besides saving one-fourth of its quantity and cost. Ordinary 1¼ × 10-inch spruce plank are used for the frame-work, for the floors and ceilings. For the beams they are reduced to the depth of eight inches, and the 2-inch strips sawed off are used for shingling-lath. For the ceiling-frame of the second story, they are simply sawed through the middle, leaving each half five inches deep, and are all placed 16 inches apart from centers. One row of cross-bridging is put through the center of each tier of beams, and the center of the ceiling-strips are secured by hangers from the rafters. The Rafters are 2 × 4 inches, framed to rest on the principal plates, where they are connected with the ceiling-strips by spikes, preventing any settling or spreading of the roof. The Roof of the main wing is constructed with double pitch, corresponding with that of the main roof. The principal roofs are finished with shingles, and has improved gutters, described in [Design V.] The porch and bay-window roofs are covered with tin laid on smooth boarding.—The rake or pitch of roofs has much to do in giving character and finish to buildings. For ordinary roofs, when shingles or slate are used, the rise should be one-third the width of the building, as in this case, the rise is 4⅓ feet, for the width of 13 feet. This pitch is very pleasant to the eye, and easy of construction. In larger buildings, it is often desirable to secure more space or head-room in the attic, when the rise should be one-half the width of the building. We would never go between these two angles in search of a roof-line that would gratify good taste, or comport with any style, but deviations above one-half or below one-third may be made, as circumstances indicate.—Circular openings covered with blinds, in each gable, give free air circulation between the ceilings and roof. Every dwelling should have some way of readily reaching the roof from the inside to clean the gutters, repair the roof or chimneys, and in case of fire in the house or in the neighborhood. An opening is made in the ceiling of the middle chamber ([fig. 42]) over and just inside the door, and thence through the roof. This is neatly boarded around its sides, forming a “well,” and is covered at the top with a sash, sloping with the roof, hung so as to be easily opened and closed by a cord from the inside. This provides for light, ventilation, and a scuttle in combination. A sash, hung on center pins to revolve, over the door of this room, transmits light from the skylight to the second-story passage and stairway, and supplies ventilation.... The mason’s work is complete and substantial in every part. The foundation walls, piers, and chimneys, are of hard brick and mortar; the plastering is two coats of brown mortar and a hard finish.... Heating.—Only two fires are required at any time to make the principal rooms of this house comfortable. The parlor, and chamber immediately above it, are warmed through a heater placed in a parlor fire-place. The dining-room has a radiator fitted in the opening of the mantel, and connected by 5-inch pipes through the fire-place back with the kitchen stove.

Estimate of materials and cost:

Fig. 39.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 40.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 41.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 42.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

Fig. 43.—MANNER OF FRAMING.

DESIGN XI.
A HOUSE COSTING $1,600.

This plan is for a comfortable and genteel dwelling, suited to almost any location, and for the accommodation of an averaged-sized family. Upwards of twenty years’ experience in planning and building has taught me that it is not difficult to design either as to Style, Room, or Cost, when the owners have means sufficient to gratify their individual tastes, and no special care is required to save expense. But it is quite another matter to provide plans for the great mass of people who, through habit or necessity, put everything to the test of economy, and to whom every inch of room, or foot of material, is an important consideration. In designing and projecting such work, theories avail little; practical experience must then be the chief guide.... Conventional modes of living have established a system of household arrangement and economy requiring for every home of even moderate refinement, a house with a front hall, a parlor, a dining-room, and a kitchen on the first floor, and a liberal suite of chambers in a second story. Our plan herewith, though only 20 by 30 feet, provides for all the above. If built on an ordinary 25-feet village lot, it will allow a needed passage-way on one side. In rapidly filling up, crowded localities, four persons owning single lots, making a frontage of 100 feet, can arrange together and build five houses on this plan for about the cost of erecting four detached houses. The fifth house may be rented or sold for the benefit of the four owners. In such cases, a hall should be finished in the basement, with an entrance in front similar to the one shown in the rear in [fig. 45].... The Front Elevation is made up of simple parts, in a neat arrangement. The Bay-window indicates refinement, and adds largely to the area or room of the parlor.... The Cellar walls are of hard brick, are 8 inches thick, 7 feet high, and show at least 3 feet above ground. For health’s sake alone, as well as for a better appearance, and for convenience, if the basement should ever be desired finished off in rooms, which can be done at any time with little expense, it is best to always place the first floor well up from the ground. In very cold localities, frost can be kept out of the basement by banking up in winter, or better by laying the brick walls with an opening up through the center, extending bricks across the opening at frequent intervals to secure firmness. This central air-chamber promotes health, warmth, and dryness in the basement or cellar. One foot of the soil taken from the excavation for the cellar should be used in grading around the house, to secure the flow of water away from it, and still leave the walls three feet or more above the ground.... First Story, ([fig. 46]).—Hight of ceiling, 9½ feet. The divisions embrace three rooms, a hall, and two closets. Double doors are provided for the front entrance, and between the parlor and dining-room, and marble mantles and shelves in the principal rooms. A movable “Dresser” having drawers and shelving with small doors, is indicated for the dining-room. This room may be heated by leading a pipe from the kitchen stove to a drum and back into the chimney, or up through the chamber above to warm that somewhat. A “Fireplace heater” in the parlor will warm the chamber above.... Second Story, ([fig. 47].)—The hight of the ceilings are 8½ feet. There are four chambers, with closets to each, and a small hall. The head-room over the main stairs extends beneath the closet to the inner edge of the shelf shown—the floor in these parts being angled to suit the pitch of the stairs.... Remarks on construction.—An end section of the “Novelty siding” is shown in [fig. 48]. This is of 10-inch boards, 1 inch thick, cut as shown in the engraving. The groove in the center gives it the appearance of narrow clapboards; the lap of about an inch closes tightly, and the thick boards not only add to the warmth, but also to the strength. A house covered with this will vibrate very little in the most windy situations, and be firmer than one covered with thin siding having much heavier timber. Where planing mills are accessible, it is little more expensive than the dressed half-inch boarding, and the appearance is quite as pretty. In this vicinity it is customary to purchase a lot of pretty good quality merchantable pine boards, select the best and clearest of knots for siding, and use the rest for flooring where knots are not objectionable when to be covered with carpeting. The smaller and firm knots in the siding used, are readily covered with paint, if first primed with a little solution of shellac in alcohol. A section of the wall is shown in [fig. 49]. The studding, 2 × 4, makes a space of four inches between the siding and plastering. Tarred paper, or what is termed roofing-felt, is procured in rolls 32 inches wide. A saw run through the roll cuts it into 16-inch strips. The studs being set 16 inches apart from center to center, leaves the clear space of 14 inches. The strips of felt are turned up an inch on each edge, and these turned edges are held against the studs by lath firmly up and down, so as to hold the sheets midway between the plastering and siding. This leaves two air-chambers, both good non-conductors of heat. Mice or insects will not eat or go through this material. It is impervious to currents of air, and the whole is as warm as if filled in with brick. The cost is very small, and, as will be readily seen, it is much warmer than when the felt is put on directly under the boards, leaving only one air-chamber, and that a wide one.... In all house-plans, we advise putting in all the closets possible; they are always convenient, even a foot square “cubby-hole” in the side of a chimney is a handy place. In planning a house, after making the size as large as one’s means will allow, the “better half” should be consulted as to the advisability of making this or that room a little smaller by cutting off a few inches here and there to enlarge a pantry or closet.... We always advise to put in an extra bell or two, and one or more speaking-tubes, to connect the upper and lower rooms. The cost is but trifling, if they are put in when building. A hundred feet of speaking-tube will cost but $2 or $3; the carpenter can insert it behind the lath, running it from one room to another in a few minutes, and it will save many steps, and much calling through the halls, especially when the mother happens to be an invalid, and restrained to a chamber.... In arranging sink, table, dish-pantry, etc., with reference to dining-room and kitchen, always plan to save steps. A distance of 10 feet extra, traveled over each way, say 20 times a day, in handling food and dishes, amounts to 28 miles extra walking every year, all of which may be saved by a slight change in arrangement. These are small matters, but these have much to do in making a “convenient house.”

Cost.—The following Estimates of cost in detail will give an idea of the general character of the work. The prices given are for materials in the vicinity of New York. Carpenters wages are reckoned at $2 per day; mason’s work, $2.50 per day; and painters, $3 per day:

Prices vary in different localities, somewhat, but when higher in some particulars, they will generally be lower in others, so that the whole cost will not be greatly different over a considerable extent of country. There are many items that can be cut down in the above estimate, where great economy is needful. For example, substitute wood for stone steps and sills; omit the blinds and bay-windows, use cheaper doors, pine-stair railing and newel, instead of walnut, etc. Our estimate is for a pretty, complete, tasteful house.

Fig. 44.—FRONT ELEVATION OF HOUSE.

Fig. 45.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 46.—PLAN OF FIRST STORY.

Fig. 47.—PLAN OF SECOND STORY.

Fig. 48.—“NOVELTY SIDING.”

Fig. 49.—SECTION OF OUTSIDE WALL.

DESIGN XII.
A HOUSE COSTING $1,700.

The plans here given are similar in many respects to [Design XI.], and are somewhat larger, but can be built for very nearly the same cost.... Elevation, ([fig. 50]).—The front is irregular, having an angle, which narrows the parts, supplies more vertical lines, and adds to their length comparatively. These are important features, imparting a graceful appearance, and influencing the entire character of the house.... The angle affords ample room for the piazza, which can be built for much less cost than when its three sides are exposed. The next attractive features of the front are the bay-windows below, and double windows above, with the balustrade and hood so proportioned and arranged that they conform with each other with pleasing effect.... Cellar, ([fig. 51]).—The Foundation Walls are of hard brick laid in mortar, 8 inches thick, and 7 feet high. In localities where the foundation rests on loose sand, care should be taken to provide a bedding, laid 4 inches below the cellar bottom, 16 inches wide, of brick, or better, of large flat stones. Still greater care should be bestowed on the bedding for the chimneys and girder supports, for they sustain the greatest proportionate weight, and any settlement of these parts will cause a depression of the floors, disarranging the whole house, and become an immediate and continuous source of anxiety and expense. The Area in the rear is built of hard brick and mortar, with blue-stone steps and coping. Blue-stone sills are provided for each of the cellar windows.... First Story, ([fig. 52].)—The interior arrangement of the plan will be appreciated as making the best possible use of the room. The Front Hall is wider than is usual in houses of this character. The Stairs are arranged with the “quarter circle” about midway of their hight, which brings the niche down where it becomes an important feature of the hall. The three principal rooms, the parlor, dining-room, and kitchen, can be entered from the hall. The latter two rooms have doors leading to the lobby. The Lobby is built of 4½-inch tongued and grooved ceiling-boards, with sashes made to swing. A Shelf, 1½ feet high, and another just above the sash, give sufficient frame-work to fasten the center of the boarding; the ends are nailed to the sill and plate; these shelves will be found useful for many purposes. Attached to the lobby, and built with it, is a good-sized Pantry (P), for the dining-room. The Kitchen is provided with a closet at the side of the chimney, a sink, with small closet underneath, and a direct communication to the cellar stairs under the hall stairs. The window in the side of the dining-room may be omitted, if the house is in a village and joins another, but this is desirable to give abundant light in this, which is really the living-room of the family.—The method of heating indicated in [Design XI.] is applicable to this plan.... Second Story, ([fig. 53].)—The peculiar manner of constructing the Stairs brings their landing nearly in the center, so that hall space sufficient only for four doors is necessary, leaving almost the entire floor to be laid off into rooms. The heavy lines show the most simple method of dividing this story into four rooms. Should another room be desirable, it can be taken off from two rooms, as shown by the dotted lines. In this case, another window may be inserted as indicated. Every one’s experience will suggest that there can not be too many closets, and we have added one to every room in the house, except the parlor.... Construction.—The bill of timber appended indicates a “regular” Frame. It is a great satisfaction and saving to have the timber properly “laid out,” and framed by, and under the immediate direction of a master mechanic, so as to be quickly and substantially raised. Four good carpenters would easily frame all the timber in this house in two days, and raise it the next day. At least one man of well-known ability and experience as a mechanic should be with and take charge of those employed to build a house. It is not economical for one about to build a home to trust such work to the caprice of an inexperienced man, who has “helped” around some job, until he has learned the name of tools, but who has no positive knowledge of the trade, and could not for his life “lay out” the corner-post for a two-story house, yet is shrewd enough to screen his deficiencies by suggesting “balloon,” or something indefinite, that requires little or no skill. It sometimes happens, in localities remote from large cities or large towns, that persons are obliged to do with make-shifts, to get a home at all. It was such a condition of things that led the well-disposed pioneer of the West to adopt the method called “Balloon framing,” which is really no framing at all, and required no skill to get up a kind of home acceptable under such circumstances. But wherever skilled labor may be had, it is ridiculous to see a gang of intelligent(?) mechanics standing up pieces of diverse lengths, and propping them in a vertical position with rods running every way as braces, not one of which can be removed until the upper ends are secured by ties of some sort. A good frame in a house is equivalent to a good constitution in a man, and is of vital importance; it need not be clumsy or overloaded, but should at least have the merit of being able to stand alone.... Painting.—The principal object in Painting should be to protect and preserve the materials used in construction, as also to give a good appearance. All exterior wood-work, though executed with the greatest care and in the most substantial manner, if left exposed to climatic influences, is very soon destroyed. It is economy to use only the best lead and linseed-oil in painting exterior wood-work. They will outlast all other compounds, present a better appearance, and in the end furnish a much better foundation for future painting. The difference in cost between the best materials and the imitations, for painting the exterior of a house built on these plans, would not exceed $12, and the cost of labor would be just the same in either case. The first coat or “priming,” should be put on with the greatest care, so as to thoroughly cover and close all the pores in the exposed surface. All window and outside door frames, corner-boards, window-caps, water-table, and stoop-flooring, should be primed before setting, especially their edges, where joinings require to be made, as it will be the last opportunity to do justice to these parts, where moisture is liable to collect and remain. When priming is well done, it is best to let the building stand until thoroughly dried, both inside and out, before adding the second coat. It must be evident to any one that much of the water used in the plastering must percolate through, and thoroughly saturate every part of a house. Sufficient time should be allowed for this moisture to pass off, and the whole house to become dried out.... The nails should then be “set,” which will tighten up permanently all the laps in the siding, after which the work should be properly puttied, and the second coat applied. Autumn is the best season to paint, after the extreme heat has passed, and insects have disappeared; the process of drying will be slower and more perfect, with less waste by evaporation, leaving a smooth, solid surface. I am often asked “what color to paint?” Notwithstanding much has been said against white for outside painting, and realizing that there are many cases where white would not be suitable, or thought of, yet I believe that for suitability and good taste, in nine cases out of ten, very light colors, or pure white, are indicated. I have known instances where much time has been spent to discover a suitable color for a house, where nearly all the different pigments were drawn from, and after much mixing and testing, the result has generally been an unknown and unnamed shade, as if everything depended on some sentimental “blending with the background,” or in other words, painting the house out of sight. As a rule, paint so as to best reveal the true character of the building, and this is best done when the colors afford the foundation for the natural shadows that result from the true and actual projections. For the body and trimmings are suggested a light “Dorchester” gray; roofs, graphite-black; sash, coach-black; blinds, “chocolate.”

Cost.—The following items, prepared with care, embrace the full bill of materials and labor required in the construction of this house, together with their present cost in the vicinity of New York:

Fig. 50.—ELEVATION OF FRONT.

Fig. 51.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 52.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 53.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XIII.
FRENCH-ROOFED COTTAGE, COSTING $2,000.

These plans were designed for a genteel cottage adapted to thickly-settled localities, where the increased value of lands make it necessary to reduce the area, and build upwards. Several houses constructed from these plans in this vicinity are admired for their convenient accommodation and cheerfulness.... Exterior, ([fig. 54].)—The Foundation extends four feet above ground, giving a desirable altitude to the whole building. The front is enlivened by the numerous window and door openings, the several projections of piazza, dormers, and cornices, and the variety of the materials used. The dressing of the several parts are of simple designs. The projections of cornices, etc., should always be self-sustaining, yet while this is true, there is sure to be a fancied necessity for some apparent support obvious from the outside. Such supports require special treatment, with a view to their proper form and proportion, and should be sparingly applied, giving to each one its distinct place and purpose. Brackets of neat pattern are often crowded so closely together as to cheapen and destroy their beauty, and overload the cornice, thus reversing their legitimate purpose as supports.... Cellar, ([fig. 55].)—Hight of ceiling 7 feet; it extends under the main house only. Its hight above the ground gives an opportunity for good-sized window openings. If desired at any time, an airy and light work-room or laundry can be made by dividing and flooring a part of this story at little cost.... First Story, ([fig. 56]).—Hight of ceiling 10 feet. It has a hall running through the whole length of the main house, with entrances from both front and rear. The parlor, dining-room, and kitchen, are all good-sized apartments, and pleasantly arranged. Double folding doors are provided for the front entrances and from the hall to the parlor, and sliding doors between the parlor and dining-room. A bay-window adds materially to the size and pleasantness of the dining or living-room. Each room has an open fire-place; the kitchen has a pump and sink, with the usual supply and waste pipe connections. The rear stoop is roofed, and has a portable enclosure of light ceiling boards, to be used in severe weather.... Second Story, ([fig. 57].)—Hight of ceiling 8½ feet. The divisions of this story are simple—giving a hall, two large chambers, with passage between, two hall rooms, and two closets.... Construction.—The estimate given provides for foundation of broken stone, laid and neatly pointed with good mortar; the stone exposed to sight on the outside to be “semi-dressed.” Blue-stone, or other suitable stone obtained most readily, are used for the sills of cellar windows, for the steps, and wall coping of the cellar entrance. The principal timber is of seasoned spruce or pine, thoroughly framed, raised, and secured. The “framing-in” of braces is too frequently omitted—cutting them “barefoot,” and spiking, being substituted. The latter does very well where the frame is strongly sheathed over, and the outer siding applied afterwards. The sheathing aids largely in stiffening the frame, but should not be relied on to the exclusion of the necessary braces to square up the frame, and prevent the swaying which often happens unobserved, to be discovered when too late to remedy it. Laxity in the matter of bracing has led to frequent errors as to their proper place in the frame. When framed in they are invariably placed in the upper angles under the ties and plates, adjoining the posts, and when barefoot they should be put in the same angles; never, as is frequently done for convenience, in the lower angles, nor on the sills. A moment’s reflection will convince any one that if the right angles along the principal frame are rigidly maintained, displacements will never occur, except, as rarely happens, the whole is bodily raised from the foundation by a hurricane. The most reliable angles are those formed by the tie and post connections, because at these points the posts are tenoned and mortised together, and secured with hard wood pins. Those least reliable are at the foot of the posts, adjoining the sills, where their connections are secured only by the weight of the upper frame. Braces placed in the latter angles serve only as fulcrums to endanger the frames when tested by ordinary winds; but if the former or upper angles are made positive, by having substantial braces in them, the severest gales may be defied. The siding is of narrow, clear pine clapboards, laid on “thicknessed” sheathing. The Mansard part of the main roof is covered by 8 × 16-inch slate—the piazza, bay-window, kitchen, stoop, cornices, window, and deck roof with IC. charcoal tin—all laid on hemlock boards. Tarred felting is spread under all siding and slate. The first and second stories are fully completed inside; the attic is floored, but otherwise unfinished, but may be divided at any time into rooms as shown for the second story ([fig. 57]). The interior plastering is three-coat work, on seasoned lath. All sash are four lights, and hung to balance-weights. Blinds are properly hung (outside) to each window. All wood, tin, and brick-work, usually painted, has two coats of best lead and oil-paint, with stainers to suit the owner’s taste. The choice of colors for the exterior is frequently canvassed during the construction of these buildings; often some person of taste (?) decides by “warming”—adding red and yellow, until, by the preponderance of these stainers, the most sombre and dismal colors are produced. The most appropriate and pleasing shade for the body of this class of house is a light gray; for the trimmings, dark gray; for the sash, burnt sienna; for the blinds, chocolate. The tin roofing should match the slate in color. Red colors should be sparingly used, or omitted altogether.

Estimate of materials required, and total cost:

Fig. 54.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 55.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 56.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 57.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XIV.
A FRENCH-ROOFED COTTAGE COSTING $2,000.

These plans were designed for a cottage recently built by Mr. W. W. Billings, in New London, Conn. These sketches embrace also the outlines of the grounds immediately surrounding. The site faces a street having steep grades, conforming to the general declivity upon which a large part of the city is built. The grounds are raised above the sidewalk, and leveled in front, and are faced with stone-work from 2½ feet high at left, to 6 feet high at the right. The rear grounds are 6 feet higher than those in front. The step A, at the entrance (see [fig. 59]), is 8 inches above the sidewalk. B is the bottom of the cellar, 2 feet 2 inches higher than A, and is solid rock. The walk leading from A to the rear ascends 1¼ inch to the foot; the banks at either side are terraced, and have stone steps inserted in them leading to the flagging at the foot of the porch steps, and also to the area, or cellar entrance.... Elevation, ([fig. 58].)—The French roof style is well adapted to this situation on account of its rounded and solid appearance. The irregularities of outline secure agreeable features of variety and picturesqueness. The Foundation shows 4 feet above ground in front, and 1 foot in the rear. The Porch is in an angle, and the second story extending over it is carried up vertically past the slated part of the main roof, forming a tower-like corner. This corner is largely supported by a single column, and to make it as light as possible, slating of this portion is omitted.—(As usually laid, slate weighs 500 lbs.; tin, 50 lbs. per square.).... Cellar, ([fig. 59].)—Hight is 6½ feet. Four windows are placed where they give light to every part. An outside door opens to the area, the latter being covered by the front porch. The front portion of this cellar can easily be finished off for a work-room or summer kitchen.... First Story, ([fig. 60].)—Hight of ceiling 10 feet. The arrangements are convenient, comprising a hall, parlor, dining-room, and kitchen. The main entrance leads from the right of the porch, and the hall runs parallel with the front. Many persons prefer the entrance arranged in this way, as the contents of the hall are not exposed to the street whenever the doors are opened or left ajar. A partition crosses the hall under the platform, adjoining the cylinder, forming a rear passage leading from the kitchen to the cellar stairs. The Parlor has a large bay-window in front, with a marble mantle directly opposite. The Dining-Room and Kitchen each have windows giving views in three directions. The small wing at the rear contains a good-sized pantry, closet, and the rear entrance or lobby.... Second Story, ([fig. 61].)—Hight of ceiling 9 feet. The divisions include a hall, three large chambers, a bedroom, and three closets. All parts are well lighted. Ventilating Registers are placed in the center of each chamber ceiling. The space above this ceiling under the tin roof is ventilated through 8-inch pipes inserted in opposite sides of the roof. These pipes have funnel-shaped covers, elevated two inches above the upper end of the pipes.... Construction.—The Foundation Walls are of semi-dressed stone. The Chimneys are of hard brick, the cellar portions are constructed with a hollow space or ash-pit, arranged to receive the ashes from the fires of the first story. The siding is beveled clap-boards, laid on sheathing felt. The mansard parts of the main roof are covered with 8 × 16-inch Keystone slate laid on felt. All other roofs are of IC. charcoal tin, all laid on seasoned boards. The two full stories are hard finished upon two coats of brown mortar. All parts usually painted have two coats of paint, of material and shades to suit the owner. For suggestions on selecting colors or shades see [Design XIII.]—Estimate cost of materials and labor:

Fig. 58.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 59.—PLAN OF CELLAR AND GROUNDS.

Fig. 60.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 61.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XV.
A SOUTHERN HOUSE COSTING $2,000.

These plans, designed for a Georgia residence, will be adapted to the requirements of others desiring to build an inexpensive rural home in any of the Southern States.... Exterior, ([fig. 62].)—The plan indicates that the proprietor is not circumscribed by want of land, and prefers to extend the area of the ground floor, rather than to build upward. The breadth of the front (48 feet), the large entrance and window openings, the spacious verandas, and broad steps, are each prominent and desirable features, indicative of comforts and hospitality. The elevated, or second story part of the Main House, forms a substantial and fitting center, around which the roofs of the wings and verandas incline, and adds largely in giving poise and character to the whole building. The hight from the earth grades to the frame-work of the building is 2 feet. Its location should have a good surface drainage assured during rainy seasons, and afford pleasant outlooks from the verandas.... Interior.—In most parts of the South, very much of the year could be a latitude comfortably spent out of doors altogether, but for the requirements of shade and retirement. There are times, however, when severe weather makes it necessary that one’s family should be well housed, and when a good fire is both a luxury and necessity. A house for such should have large rooms, with high ceilings, an abundance of door and window openings, and a plentiful spread of shady verandas. Where practicable, the windows should have folding sashes opening to the floor, if protected by outside coverings. There should be at least one chimney in the main or highest part of the house, having a large open fire-place adapted to the use of wood for fuel, and having openings near the room ceilings into the flues, for ventilation. The Dining-room, Kitchen, and the more domestic offices, require a separate and distinct building, situated a short distance in the rear of the house, and connected with it by a covered passage-way.... First Story, ([fig. 63].)—Hight of ceiling 10 feet. The simple arrangement shown provides for each of the above requirements. The front Entrance is through large double doors. The Hall extends through the house. The Living-room, a large apartment adapted to a good-sized family, is centrally situated, and protected on every side from the direct rays of the sun; it adjoins the pleasant and shady verandas front and rear, both being accessible through the folding windows, that open like doors down to the floor. It communicates with the hall through wide double doors, has a large closet and an open fire. The Bedroom is of good dimensions, has three windows opening to the verandas, and one side window. The two closets are so arranged as to form an alcove to the rear window. The ceiling of this alcove is arched over, producing a very pleasant effect. An opening is made near the ceiling into one of the flues of the adjoining chimney for ceiling ventilation. The Parlor (or Library) is situated in the most quiet part of the building, where company may be entertained, or persons may engage in reading or study, without disturbance from those engaged in housework. Large windows open to the front veranda, and other windows are provided at the side and rear. A covered Passage-way leads from the rear hall door to the food departments. These consist of a Dining-room, Kitchen, Store-room, and two Closets, and to the rear of these is added a servant’s Bedroom. The dining-room and kitchen are each of ample size, with windows arranged on opposite sides to admit a plentiful supply of fresh air. A pump, sink, and two wash-tubs are provided in the kitchen. The store-room and closets are thoroughly shelved. If desirable, a china closet may be easily constructed at one side of the fire-place, into which one of the doors already provided would open.... Second Story, ([fig. 64].)—Hight of ceiling 9 feet. This may be divided into two or more rooms, as required, for bedrooms. The cross-partitions may be 8 feet high, admitting a free passage of air above them.... Construction.—Brick piers, placed 6 feet apart under all sills, are intended for the foundation. The remaining space is left unobstructed for the circulation of air. A cellar may be excavated, and walled up under the main house, with stairs leading to it from the rear veranda, under the main flight. In the estimate, provision is made for a regular frame of sawed timber, which should be framed and raised in a substantial manner. The siding for the main house and wings is of 6-inch pine clap-boards, laid 5 inches to the weather. The roofs of the main house and wings are laid with hemlock boards; all other roofs and cornice projections are laid with inverted 1 × 4½-inch tongued and grooved pine flooring, and lastly covered with IC. charcoal tin, locked and soldered in the best manner. The cornices are constructed with wide projections, and have neat truss supports. The verandas are made with simple parts. The columns for the front are 7-inch boxed, with bases, and scrolled spandrels; for the rear of 3 × 4 joist with bases, and plain spandrels. The veranda plates and rafters are dressed for painting, and are left exposed to sight. The pediments shown on the front are of open work, to allow the warmed air from near the roofs to escape. The upper frame-work (plates and rafters) of the rear building are also planed, and left exposed to sight from the inside. The inclosing and partitions for this part are of 1 × 4½-inch pine tongued and grooved flooring, dressed on both sides, put on in a vertical manner, and nailed to the sills and plates; 1¼-inch pine battens are put around the inside of the rooms at the proper hight for a chair-rail (2¾ feet to the upper edge), and joined to the casings of the doors and windows of like materials, and all thoroughly nailed with “clinch” nails to the upright boarding. The roof is built as described for the verandas, is double pitch, and has sufficient spread to include the shed, making it a part of the same building. The kitchen chimney is built nearly in the center of this building, has a large open fire-place, and has a good hight above the roof. All floors are of 1 × 4½-inch tongued and grooved pine flooring, close laid and blind nailed. All rooms in the main building and wings are hard-finished upon two coats of brown mortar. All work usually painted has two coats of good paint. The roof-gutters are made as shown in [Design V.]... Estimate:

Fig. 62.—FRONT VIEW OF HOUSE.

Fig. 63.—FIRST STORY.

Fig. 64.—SECOND STORY OF MAIN BUILDING.

DESIGN XVI.
A HOUSE COSTING $2,100.

This plan, embodying the principal characteristics of a design I made several years ago, for the residence of Mr. Arthur Waller, Newtown, L. I., has a homelike, tasteful, and picturesque appearance—particularly now, with its neatly laid-out grounds and grown up shrubbery, which especially befit its pointed style, and demonstrate the harmony that exists between these simple cottage outlines, and rural surroundings. It is thus adapted to either a suburban or more retired country situation.... Elevation, ([fig. 65].)—A noticeable peculiarity is the earth finish around the foundation, which is simply utilizing the earth from the cellar. This is banked against the foundation, up to within six inches of the wood, evenly graded at 45 degrees angle, and neatly covered with closely laid turf. This conceals a roughly constructed foundation; it insures more dryness of the cellar, and consequently of the whole house; it guards the cellar against extreme heat in summer, and frost in winter; and it gives such a visible breadth of bottom as to add to its apparent strength. This earth finish around the foundation is especially adapted to wet or clayey soils, where it is desirable to have the cellar mostly above ground; at the same time it secures greater elevation to the whole building.... There are marked features of dissimilarity in the several openings, and in the details of the exterior dressing, each part being adapted to its special purpose, and so arranged as to be in keeping with the general design; it therefore unites harmony and beauty.... Cellar, ([fig. 66].)—The Cellar extends under the whole house; clear hight 6½ feet. The outside entrance to the cellar is by an area-way, having stone steps and walls, with hatchway and inside doors; the hatchway doors, when closed, being even with the sloping earth finish.... First Story, ([fig. 67].)—Hight of ceiling 9½ feet. The irregular outlines of this plan contribute to the cheerfulness of the different apartments, by giving opportunity for the insertion of windows where they will command the most pleasing prospects. The principal entrance is from the porch through double doors to the spacious hall, which adjoins the parlor and dining-room. The Parlor has one bay and two plain windows, with large wall space for furniture and wall decoration. The Dining-room is conveniently arranged to connect with the principal hall, parlor, rear lobby, large pantry, or closet, and the cellar stairway, and has a large bay and one plain window. The Kitchen is planned to have a range, sink, pump, wash-tubs, and the usual pipes for cold and hot water, and is provided with two windows, situated in opposite sides of the room to give abundant light, and afford thorough ventilation; a closet adjoins the chimney-breast, and a cupboard is put beneath the sink. The Pantry is of good dimensions, contiguous to both dining-room and kitchen, has a suitable window, and is furnished with shelving. The rear entrance is from the covered stoop to the rear lobby, and from thence to either dining-room or kitchen.... Second Story, ([fig. 68].)—This story is reached by a winding stairway from the principal hall, and contains four good-sized chambers, a bath-room, five large closets, and the needed passage-ways. The breast-walls are vertical to the hight of 3½ feet, and are continued upward along the underside of the steep roof frame-work to the ceiling, which is 8 feet high. The Bath-room is provided with a bath-tub and seat-closet. The Tank is 1 foot 8 in. wide, 2 feet long, and 3 feet deep, and is placed in the closet adjoining the bath-room, at a hight of 2 feet above the floor, and provided with a neat-fitting lid. The spaces above and below the tank may be used as a closet for toweling, etc. The interior location of this tank should insure it against frost, so long as the house is occupied by the family.... Construction.—The excavations for the cellar are 2 feet deep, and the earth is used as above described. The materials for the principal foundations may be of the roughest stone, such as are commonly used in farm-fencing, and coarse mortar. Very little skill is required in the construction of these walls, as only the last, or top course, is seen from the outside, which should be laid to a line, and levelled to receive the frame-work. The exposed portions of the bay-window foundations are constructed of brick laid in mortar, resting on stone-work, and leaving an interior recess or shelf, as shown on the cellar plan. The cellar windows are of good dimensions, and situated where they will insure sufficient light, and provide for the complete airing of the cellar. An opening should be left in one, or both of the chimneys, near the cellar ceiling, having a continuous flue to the top, which will be heated by contact with the fire-places above when in use, and produce a draft that will exhaust the poisonous vapors always generated in cellars, and prevent them from rising through the house to contaminate the air of the living-rooms. This cellar may be easily and cheaply divided into separate apartments by rough planking or otherwise, if ever desirable. The rear portion might be readily converted into a laundry, where the wash-tubs, with their accompanying pipes, might be placed, leaving more kitchen room, and relieving it of the steam and general disturbance of the ever-recurring washing days. Large durable posts are placed in the cellar, resting on large flat stones that have been embedded in the cellar bottom, as supports for the 4 × 8-inch girders, shown on the cellar plan by the dotted lines. By the estimate, it will be seen that very little timber is used in the frame-work, of which the sills and beams comprise the heavier parts. I would enforce the importance of having the frame fitted and secured together in a substantial manner. The beams should be bridged as described for [Design XVII.]... The exterior sides of the frame-work are designed to be inclosed with double boarding, with an intermediate lining of tarred felting. The first covering should be milled to even thicknesses, and put on horizontally and double nailed to each stud. The felting is next applied in whole width strips, running from the sill to the plate. The water-table and window-frames are next put in their places, after which the final covering of tongued and grooved sheathing is put on vertically, with the lower ends neatly fitted to the water-table, and the upper ends covered with a 10-inch board forming a frieze to the cornice. The siding should then be painted one coat in a thorough manner, when battens of 1½ inch “half round” (previously painted both sides) are firmly nailed over the joints of the sheathing. The windows are all arranged for 1½-inch sash, hung to iron weights with good cord, and neatly cased and moulded on the inside; outside blinds are intended for each window above the cellar. The cornices are constructed in the simplest manner, and the perforated barges and finials are made as indicated by the elevation, and placed near the extremity of the gable cornices, from which ever-varying shadows are made against the building, producing the most delicate and pleasing effects. It is purposely intended that the roofs of the principal building, porch, stoop, bay, and dormer windows, shall have sufficient pitch for shingling.... The character of the balance of the work may be inferred from the estimate which is given in detail.—Estimate:

Fig. 65.—ELEVATION OF HOUSE.

Fig. 66.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 67.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 68.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XVII.
A HOUSE COSTING $2,200.

These plans are for a full two-story house, that will embrace the merits of the most economical form of construction (having a floor measurement of 24 × 28, nearly square), with symmetry of style, and containing a very commodious and convenient interior arrangement. The Elevation ([fig. 69]), has marked features of simplicity and refinement, with sufficient diversity of parts to give variety and grace, without pretentious display. We invariably recommend high foundations for houses of this character; of course a foot in hight at the bottom will add a foot to the hight of the whole, imparting a better appearance externally, and on account of the better ventilation thereby afforded to the cellar, adds greatly to the healthfulness of the interior of the whole house. Additional steps will be required to the stoops, but the cost of these are compensated by deductions in the excavation for the cellar, and stone steps to the area. The large porch and double doors, the bay and other windows, each distinctive in themselves, and adapted to their places, similar only in conformity of character, are so proportioned as to harmonize with each other with pleasing effect. The pediments of the roof are so arranged that each “face” of the building will have very nearly the same appearance of outline. The main cornice projects two feet beyond the frame-work of the house, and is supported by large trusses; all other cornices and window-caps have proportionate projections, insuring heavy shadows, giving relief and finish to the whole.... Cellar, ([fig. 70].)—Excavations for this cellar are made 2 feet 6 inches below the general surface of the ground. The Foundation-walls, Chimneys, Girder-supports, and rear Area-walls are built as described for [Design XII.], after which the earth is graded around, and up against the foundation, so as to give such slope as will turn the water away from the house and walks, leaving the foundation 4 feet above the final grade.... First Story, ([fig. 71].)—This story contains the principal hall, parlor, dining or living-room, kitchen, rear lobby, three closets, and private stairs. The principal Hall is entered from the front porch, through large double doors, is square (10 × 10 feet), and contains the principal stairs, which are built with a quarter circle and niche nearly in the center of their hight, as described in [Design XII.] This hall connects with the parlor through double doors; this will be found to give an impression of amplitude that would scarcely be expected in a house of this size. The Parlor has a large bay-window, finished with elliptical arch and ornamental corbels, and a marble mantle. The Dining-room is intended as the living-room of the family, and communicates with each room and hall of the first story; has a closet under the front stairs, and has a marble mantle. The Kitchen is provided with a large range, two closets, sink, with cold and hot water, and closet underneath, and communicates with the dining-room, lobby, and cellar stairway. The rear entrance to this story is through the lobby, which has two small windows. The private stairs are arranged to start from the rear lobby.... Second Story, ([fig. 72].)—The manner in which this story is divided into rooms very much resemble a “double” house, the hall being nearly in the center of the house, and the rooms at either side: contains hall, two stairways, six rooms, and five closets. The hall is 5 ft. 6 in. × 10 ft., and has seven doors leading from it to the different rooms and private stairway. Many persons require a “study”; the room directly above the principal hall is best adapted for such purpose, has a large closet, and is most convenient to the stairs. The door to this room should have ground glass upper panels, to admit light to the hall. The Bath-room is provided with French bath-tub, seat-closet, and wash-basin. The soil-pipe from this story will be concealed by passing down inside one of the kitchen closets. Marble shelves, resting on stucco trusses, are intended for each of the four principal rooms of this story.... General Details.—It is intended that all the work should be done in a workmanlike and substantial manner, of good materials, as indicated in the estimate. All the principal timber is framed together, and raised in the usual manner, and secured with hard-wood pins. The enclosing should be dressed, of thoroughly seasoned materials, and nailed with 10d. nails. The cornices are ornamented with bold panelled brackets and dentil courses. Each gable is provided with a circular ventilator. All roofs are covered with charcoal tin, laid on rough boards, and have gutters as described for [Design V.], at a cost of 10 cts. per running foot. The columns of the front porch are turned, and have ornamental caps and square pedestals. The stoop-rail is 5 inches wide, and the balusters are scroll-sawed, of 1½-inch pine plank. The trusses under the bay-window are large, scroll-sawed, and ornamental. The flooring should be thoroughly dried, close-laid, and double-nailed to each beam with 10d. nails. While laying the floor (having reached the center of the span of the beams), a row of cross-bridging should be put in, in a strong manner. In this way, the inequalities of the upper surfaces of the beams, which are always more or less sprung, will be brought into line by the flooring, and each piece of bridging will receive its relative proportion of the weight. The tarred paper is next inserted between the outside studding, in the manner described for [Design XI.], which is much cheaper than “brick-filling,” and for many reasons more desirable. The central partitions, that carry the principal weight, should be studded strongly of 4-inch materials, or wall-strips set edgeways. All closet, stair, and cross partitions may be set of 2-inch materials, or wall-strips set flatways. This latter method saves nearly one-half of the space taken by the partitions, which may be added to the size of the rooms, where it frequently happens that a few inches becomes a matter of importance. The second-story ceiling timbers are of wall-strips, put 12 inches from centers, and a flooring of rough boards is laid over a part, to make room for storage, etc. All sash are 1½ inches thick, and have second quality French glass in them, and are hung with iron weights. We think there is a good opportunity for improvement in the manufacture of window sashes, making them air-tight, and suggest inserting the necessary rubber strips near their edges, and especially in the lips of the check-rail—this would effectually shut out all drafts of air, and make the unsightly and impracticable “weather-strip” unnecessary. All stairs should have 1¼ strings and treads, and ⅞ risers, and should be so housed, glued, and keyed, as to make them solid; squeaky stairs are abominable, and even when assured of their safety, one feels an instinctive suspicion of danger, and will look for treachery in every part of the house. Black walnut panelled newel, moulded rail, and fluted balusters, are intended for the principal flight of stairs. Setting the niche is a part of the stair-builder’s work, and should always be included in his estimate for stairs of this character. The trimming of the hall, dining-room, and parlor, are of clear pine, the architraves are 8 inches wide, and “double-moulded,” with panelled back to each window. Base 7-inch and moulded. All other rooms have 5-inch “single trim,” with back moulding, and base to match. All doors panelled and moulded; all room-doors have mortise locks, and closet-doors have rim-locks, all with brass bolts and keys; knobs and escutcheons of porcelain, and all saddles are of hard-wood. All parts of this house that are usually painted should have two coats of paint of the best materials, and of such colors as shall suit the owner. All hard-wood, such as the stair-rail, bath-room finish, and saddles, should have two coats of linseed-oil.... Cost.—Contractors everywhere differ in their estimates for work of any kind. These differences are sometimes the result of some peculiar circumstance, but most generally they arise through some misapprehension of fact; either the plans are incomprehensible, or the description of them ambiguous, leading to a variety of interpretations, and consequently a variety of prices, some of which are too low, and some too high. The low man who usually proposes to do the best work, and the most of it, gets the job, and executes the work in accordance with his preconceived ideas, gets his money, and leaves the owner in possession of something he did not expect. No one can know the extent and character of the work better than the projector of them, who should be equally qualified to give exact estimates of quantities and cost of everything connected with their thorough development and execution, and thus truly fulfill his mission as the architect of the works. Cost is one of the most interesting features in any project, and no plan is hardly worth considering that does not comprehend in some way the expense of its execution. Builders and others interested in such plans, will appreciate the detailed estimates, as furnishing the key to the whole plan, supplying the needed information as to the real quality and character of the work.—Estimate:

Fig. 69.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 70.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 71.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 72.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XVIII.
A SOUTHERN HOUSE COSTING $2,200.

This plan of a simple, yet genteel Southern house, embraces ample interior accommodation for the wants of a good-sized family. It has an abundance of outside verandas and artificial shade, and may be constructed at a very moderate cost.... Exterior, ([fig. 73].)—The style is adapted to the Middle and Southern States, because of its elevation and airiness, the overhanging projections of its roof, and the facility with which wings or verandas may be added. The Tower is a conspicuous feature, and though without any special ornamentation, it gives an expression of unity and completeness to the whole structure. The Verandas on every side afford protection from the sun. Many persons prefer disconnected verandas (as shown in [figs. 73 and 75]), with open ends to the roofs for the escape of the heated air that would otherwise be retained in them. Moreover, disconnected verandas prevent the annoyance arising from the noise made by children who are fond of running and playing upon them.... Cellar, ([fig. 74].)—This is under the kitchen wing only; is 6½ feet deep, has two windows, an outside entrance with stone steps, and a stairway leading to the rear entry of the first floor.... First Story, ([fig. 75].)—Hight of ceiling in the main house, 11 feet, and in the wing 9 feet. The entrance Hall, nearly square, and entered from the front piazza through double doors, contains the main stairs, and communicates with the parlor and dining-room. Each of these apartments communicates with the library through large sliding-doors. The windows to these rooms open to the floor, and are protected on the outside by the verandas. The front parlor window is 6½ feet wide, with the sashes arranged to slide in pockets at either side, by which means the parlor is apparently prolonged to, and may be used with the veranda. Each of the large rooms has fire-places and marble mantles. The closet for the dining-room is under the main stairs. The Kitchen is in the rear wing, and separated from the main house by the rear lobby and the pantry; it has a good-sized double window at each side, a large pantry, and a fire-place. In the rear entry are stairways leading to the second story and to the cellar.... Second Story, ([fig. 76].)—Hight of ceilings in main house, 9 feet, and in the wing 7 feet. It is divided into six chambers, besides halls and closets. The three larger Chambers have fire-places with marble shelves, and two windows in each. The window in the small chamber is placed near the ceiling, above the kitchen roof. The two Chambers in the wing are intended as servants’ rooms, and have no communication with the main house.... Tower and Attic.—The Tower has an inclosed stairway, with a door at the foot. The main roof finish at the rear of the tower is leveled even with the main ridge, inclosing the intervening space; this affords room for a door leading from the tower to the attic. This story is thoroughly floored, and has small windows in each gable, and is useful as a place for storage. In cases of necessity, a portion of this attic may be used for bedrooms.... Construction.—The Cellar excavations are made in the ground 4½ feet deep, and for the underpinning of the main house one foot. The loose earth is used in grading, raising the surface immediately surrounding the foundation 8 inches. The foundation walls are 8 inches thick, of hard brick and good mortar. The cellar walls are 6½ feet high, and the underpinning 3 feet 2 inches high, leaving an exposed surface 18 inches high at completion. Only the portions of the foundation plan, shown darker in the plan, [fig. 74], are walled, the intervening spaces being left open for the free circulation of air. The general character of the materials to be used in the construction of this house (a large portion of which is milled, and manufactured ready for use,) may be inferred from the appended estimate. The manner of putting these materials together is of great importance, and should be entrusted only to skillful and thorough workmen. The details of the exterior finish are so plain, that the work of “getting out” the several parts may be done by the mechanics employed in building, without recourse to the scroll-saw or carver. The truss-work of the cornices, and the open frame-work, and columns of the verandas, are of dressed timber, and stop-chamfered. All the roofs have sufficient pitch to allow the use of shingles, which are much lighter and cooler than slate or metal. Veranda roofs so constructed do not reflect so much heat into the chamber windows as others, which is important in a warm climate.... Ventilation.—Large window openings, with easy working sashes, are provided, and afford the best means of changing the air of any apartment. The chimneys are large, and have open fire-places, and ventilating side-flues with registers near the ceilings. These openings, which should never be closed, will be found to afford satisfactory ventilation. During seasons of extreme heat, the tower may be made to serve as a general ventilator, by lowering the upper sashes, and opening all the doors leading to it. The following estimate includes everything necessary to complete this building in a thorough manner, at prices now ruling in the vicinity of New York.—Estimate:

Fig. 73.—VIEW OF EXTERIOR OF A SOUTHERN HOUSE.

Fig. 74.—CELLAR AND GROUND PLAN.

Fig. 75.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 76.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XIX.
A STONE HOUSE, COSTING $2,500.

This plan has many features to commend it as an economical country house. It is similar in many respects to [Design XXVII.], having an equal breadth of front, and is constructed of like substantial materials. The arrangement of the several parts, however, are more regular and compact, and embrace accommodations for a good-sized family.... Exterior, ([fig. 77].)—At first sight, the reader will perceive the perfect balance apparent in the outlines and details of the front. Variety is also an especial feature, resulting from the pleasing diversity and systematic distribution of the prominent parts. The site has much effect upon the appearance of any building. This house should have a commanding position to afford such views as would seem to be expected from its broad and generous windows. Health and happiness being largely dependent on the situation, it is important to select a position having a natural drainage, and therefore more likely to be surrounded with pure wholesome air.... Cellar, ([fig. 78].)—Hight 6½ feet. The plain engraving saves the need of further explanation. The ceiling is smoothly “laid off” with one coat of plaster, and the walls are flush-pointed, so that the whole interior may be whitewashed whenever it shall be desirable to lighten or sweeten the cellar.... First Story, ([fig. 79].)—As is suggested by the exterior, system and order are prominent features in the interior arrangement. The main entrance is through double doors. The principal hall is central and roomy, and contains the open and balustered stairway to the second story. The two principal rooms are of equal size, with outlooks front and rear. The Parlor has a pleasant bay or plant window, arranged to be shut off, when desirable, by large sash doors. This window has no floor, but is cemented around its sides below the floor-line, to secure dryness to the walls, and is filled with earth wherein plants may be grown. The thick masonry surrounding this plant-bed will secure it from frost. The temperature required to make the parlor comfortable will be sufficient for the plants, while the strong sunlight will insure their vigorous growth. A mirror may be placed on the mantle opposite this window, arranged to reflect its contents, and make a most cheerful picture.—The Living-room is a convenient apartment, in easy communication with the front and rear entrances, the wood-house, and cellar-stairs, passing down under the front hall stairs. It has a large pantry, and is provided with a range, sink, stationary wash-tubs, water, and waste-pipes. The importance of having cold and hot water always ready should not be overlooked. Very much of the drudgery of housework in the country consists in drawing and carrying water, and besides, it generally happens that when water is most wanted, the vessels are empty, necessitating great inconvenience and frequent distress.—The Bedroom is situated between the parlor and living-room, and communicates with both, and has a good-sized closet. This apartment may be used as a sewing-room, where such work need not be put away every time it is laid down for a moment. The Wood-house at the rear is constructed of light materials, and serves as a fuel and utensil room.... Second Story, ([fig. 80].)—This story is divided into five chambers, a hall, and seven closets. Each room is entered directly from the hall, obviating the too frequent necessity of passing through one room to reach another. Closets are a necessity to any well ordered household; their uses are so numerous that it is hardly possible to provide too many.... Remarks on Construction.—The element of durability is an important quality of this structure, avoiding the necessity and expense of frequent repairs. The exterior walls are constructed of stone and brick, as described in [Design XXVII.] Care should be taken to make these walls perfectly solid and thorough. The mortar used should be of the best lime, and coarse, sharp sand. Such mortar improves with age, always increasing in hardness and strength. The brick corner-work may be laid in dark or blue mortar with good effect in subduing the strong contrasts in color. Interior plastering should never be applied directly to the stone-work. Such walls do not readily conform to the sudden changes of the surrounding temperature, and are rendered damp and unwholesome from the moisture of the air being condensed upon them. They should be furred off, leaving an air-space between the stone-work and plastering, through the whole hight of the wall, and opening into the spaces between the rafters of the roof. Side-walls constructed in this manner afford a most comfortable interior, having a more equal temperature than is possible in the usual frame building, and neither the severe cold of winter, nor the extreme heat of summer, is immediately felt within. The chimneys are of hard brick; their interior location insures a great saving of fuel, as the heat that is radiated from them greatly assists in warming the house. The principal roofs are covered with dark slate. “Keystone” and “Chapman” are good qualities, and are mostly used in this vicinity; they have good color, and do not fade. A good effect is produced by clipping the exposed corners of about one-third of the slate, in a uniform manner, and laying them in belts of five or six courses each across the roof.

Estimate of the Cost:

Fig. 77.—FRONT VIEW OF HOUSE.

Fig. 78.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 79.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 80.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XX.
A COUNTRY HOUSE, COSTING $2,600.

This plan is somewhat similar in style and materials to [Design XXIV.] The changes here indicated adapt it to a more southern climate, such as larger window openings, more piazzas, and placing the domestic rooms at the rear of the main building.... Exterior, ([fig. 81].)—“Double front” houses (as those having their front entrance in the center are usually called), may face any point of compass, and are adapted to almost any situation. They appear best when located at sufficient distance from the road to allow extended, neatly laid-out approaches, and thus give an air of retirement.... Cellar, ([fig. 82].)—Hight, 7 feet. Full size of the main building, with window openings on every side.... First Story, ([fig. 83].)—Hight of ceilings in main house, 11 feet; in the wing, 9 feet. The apartments embraced in the main house are unusually large, airy, and pleasant. All the windows open down to the floor, and are protected from sun and rain by the piazza. The Hall has a wide entrance leading from the piazza, and contains the principal flight of stairs. The Parlor and Living-room are of equal size (14 × 24 feet), have windows looking in three directions, and have open fire-places in each. The rear entry occupies part of the main house and wing, its hight of ceiling is determined by the platform of the main stairs. It communicates conveniently with the rear piazza, main hall, living-room, kitchen, cellar-stairs, and a closet. In the Wing are a kitchen, work-room or summer-kitchen, butler’s pantry, and two closets. The Kitchen communicates with the living-room through the butler’s pantry, which is “dresser-finished” with drawers and shelving. The work-room is furnished with a pump, sink, and two stationary wash-tubs. If desired, a bath-room may be placed in this wing, and fitted up with the necessary plumbing, as shown in [Design XXXIII.]... Second Story, ([fig. 84].)—Hight of ceiling, 9 feet. A hall, three chambers, a bedroom, and four closets are the divisions of this story. The stairs leading to the attic are placed above those of the first story, with a door at the foot.... Attic.—The estimate provides for a floor in this, and for casing the four pair of windows, but it is otherwise left unfinished. Four or more bedrooms may be made in this story if desired.... Construction.—The materials are indicated in the estimate. The foundation-walls show 2 feet above the ground. The timber is framed and raised in the most thorough manner. The beams are placed 2 feet apart from centers, and bridged with one row of “cross-bridging” in each span. Observe that the main posts are 25 feet long; this includes the whole hight from bottom of sills to top plates, and allows for four feet of inside breastwork from the attic floor to foot of main rafters. The main roof is set at an angle of 45°. The “open-worked” barges in the pediment ([fig. 81]), are of 1¼-inch-plank, 16 inches wide, pierced in simple figure, and require only one set of patterns for the four gables. The piazza-rafters show in their ceilings. Perforated pediments in each side allow the escape of heated air from under the roofs. The columns are “boxed” 7 inches square, and chamfered. The spandrels are scroll-sawed from 3-inch timber. The two full stories are hard finished on two coats of brown mortar and seasoned lath. All doors are panelled, and all architraves in the main house are double moulded; in the wing single moulded. All sashes are 1½ inch thick, and glazed with second quality French glass. The parlor and living-room have marble mantles; the chambers have marble shelves resting on stucco trusses. The main stairs have an 8-inch octagon newel, a 2¼ × 4¼ moulded hand-rail, and 2-inch fluted balusters, all of black walnut, as also are the saddles to each room. All knobs, roses, and escutcheons are of white porcelain. All wood usually painted has two coats of best paint, in shades to suit the owner’s taste.

Estimate of Cost:

The following detailed estimate of the cost of windows and doors, “complete,” are given in explanation as to what is included in the foregoing and other lists, viz.:

Where there are an equal number of each class, I should put their cost at $11.23 each, and where the second class preponderates, as is usually the case, the average price is reduced accordingly:

It will be noticed that the item for Base is included in above estimate for doors. The figures (22 feet) are an average per door, deduced from careful calculations, and are introduced here for the purpose of aiding any one in readily making up an estimate for a whole building.

Fig. 81.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF HOUSE.

Fig. 82.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 83.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.

Fig. 84.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.

DESIGN XXI.
A FARM-HOUSE COSTING $2,600.

These plans were designed for a convenient and comfortable Farm-house in the American style, comprehending the most economical and practical methods of construction. The size and shape of such houses should be made to conform to the requirements of those who are to occupy them. Unlike the villager, the farmer has ample road front, and his house should be so arranged as to secure the most pleasant outlook from the living rooms. For many important reasons a farmer’s house should be set back from the highway at least 75 feet, 200 feet is much better. Everyone appreciates a nice lawn in front of a country home, through which inviting approaches lead from the road entrances bordered with flowers, and where space is allowed for shade trees and shrubbery. The width of country roads when first projected is usually limited to 50 feet. There is no certainty, however, that an increased width or the straightening of a roadway will not be demanded at any time and such contingencies should be provided for. Other considerations require but a moment’s thought to convince anyone of the desirableness of an ample front lawn.... Exterior, ([fig. 85].)—Farm houses usually stand disconnected and apart from other buildings, and should have outlines that will best adapt them to the conditions that are otherwise manifest in the location. This plan is intended for an eastern frontage, where it would face the morning sun, when the principal and broader portions of the building, at the right, would be doubly valuable as a shield to ward off the northern winds from the parts of the house most used by the occupants. (By reversing the plan it would be equally adapted to the opposite, or easterly side of a road.) It is intended that the body of the house shall be set at least two feet above the ground; this gives opportunity for good-sized cellar-windows, that will admit light, and afford good openings for cellar ventilation, and also secure the frame-work of the building against moisture from the ground. Such moisture, if allowed, will cause decay of the sills and other principal timbers, and is sure to percolate upward into the house, filling it with unwholesome vapors. The variety of the general outlines as shown in the elevation are calculated to impart a cheerful and lively appearance always desirable in a country home, and very pleasant to the passer-by. The ridged roofs, with their spreading gables and ample projections, are features of frankness in which there is no attempt at concealment or imitation. The bay-windows, wide entrance, and spacious piazza, are each expressive of liberality and refinement. The extreme simplicity of the details, and methods of construction, devoid of all ostentatious display, clearly express the purpose of the building, and commend it to the consideration of all who are interested in rural house building.... Foundation, ([fig. 86].)—In most locations stone are abundant; our estimate comprehends the building of the foundation-walls of rough, broken stone, laid in coarse mortar, and neatly pointed where exposed to sight. Any man who is at all familiar with the most ordinary stone-work, such as building “wall” fences, could build these foundations acceptably; they should be laid up 18 inches thick, and flush with the outside of the frame-work of the building. Our plan shows a cellar under the central part of the building only, which should be 7 feet deep; this cellar will be found sufficiently spacious for the uses of most families, but may be enlarged if desirable. One of the “wise sayings” we heard in youth was, “always build your cellar under the whole house.” Unless there are ample cellars under the barns, the house-cellar is never too large. In this case, it will be but little extra cost and labor to take out the earth, and carry the foundations down. The walls provided would do most of this, and then we have ample cellars for all wants, and have room to partition off fruit and vegetable rooms, the former of which need to be much cooler than the latter, if one would keep fruit well. The side-walls of the area are built of the same materials as the cellar-walls, with the stone steps inserted while building. The foundations shown on the plan where no cellar is required, are built of the same materials, laid in trenches, which have been excavated 18 inches wide, and 2 feet deep. The chimney foundations should be started and laid up with the other walls. A very effectual ventilation may be provided from the cellar by arranging an opening that shall lead to the left-hand flue of the kitchen chimney; this flue will be warmed by contact with the range when in use, and a strong draft will be made, which will exhaust the damp, foul odors so common in deep cellars. It will be observed that the cellar is protected from the extreme changes of outward temperature by the walls and spaces at each side, and by the partial coverings in front and rear.... First Story, ([fig. 87].)—This story is divided into three large and three small rooms, and hall. By this plan, the kitchen is intended as the living-room of the family, and is so arranged as to be the most convenient and pleasant room in the house; has large windows front and rear, which will admit an abundance of light, and afford an outlook each way. A large range is placed in the fire-place, with a water-back connecting with the boiler in the laundry. The clock and lamp-shelf is placed on the opposite side of the room from the fire-place: should never be over it. Adjoining the kitchen, and connected with it, is a pantry, containing shelving, drawers, and a wash-tray, with cold and hot water. The Laundry, or work-room, is arranged to connect directly with the kitchen and pantry, and leads to the rear outside door. This room is fitted up so that the principal kitchen-work may be done in it, with great facility, and with few steps, and contains a closet, sink, pump, wash-tubs, tank, and boiler. The hight of the ceiling in this room is 10 feet in the clear. The Tank (not shown in the drawings), is situated close up to the ceiling, above the pantry door, is 8 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 2 feet deep. The boiler is of copper, 40-gallon capacity, and is placed directly in the rear of the kitchen chimney. The sink and wash-tubs are shown on the plan, and are to be provided with cold and hot water. The force-pump is placed next to the sink, under the tank—by this method but little plumbing is required, and a very perfect and satisfactory arrangement is secured. The boiler keeps the temperature of this room sufficiently warm to prevent damage to the pipes from frost. The Bedroom also adjoins the kitchen, and has a closet for clothing, and two windows. The principal Hall, included in the central building, is entered through large double doors from the front piazza, and connects through doors with the parlor, kitchen, and back passage, and contains the principal stairs, which are of easy “platform” construction. The Parlor has a large bay-window, marble mantle, and adjoins the library through large sliding-doors. The Library has a marble mantle, and closet, and connects with the back passage at the rear of the principal stairs. The Front Piazza has its ends sheltered by the projections at each side, and is arranged to require but two columns. If desirable at any time, a part of this piazza can be enclosed with sash at very little expense, which would provide a very convenient conservatory for plants and flowers. The rear “shed” is provided with a roof and columns, but has no wooden floor. It is intended that the grounds around the rear of the central building shall be graded well up, say within a foot of the rear door-sills, so as to require but a single step, or large flat stone, to each door. The outside cellar doors would be made to lay even with the final grade, and hung to the coping-stones of the area-walls, and the remaining space paved or flagged with stone. When once properly done, the finish of this character will last a lifetime without trouble, while wood-work could never be satisfactory, and would often require renewal. Whenever the cellar doors are opened, they are hooked up against the columns, where they form a railing, or guard, to prevent the usual danger of an open hatchway.... The Second Story ([fig. 88]), has a hall, four large and three small chambers, with four closets, and stairway leading to the attic. Each of the large Chambers has two windows, and a ventilating register in the flue of the chimney adjoining. All these rooms have full hight ceilings, and are not so close to the roof as to be affected by their absorbed heat of summer, but have complete square ceilings, with large air-spaces between them and the roofs. The Attic of the principal building is completely floored, and has windows in each gable or pediment, and may be used for storage, drying clothes in stormy weather, and for many other purposes.... Construction.—The estimate appended indicates the kind and quantity of materials used, which will be found to be such as are now most generally adopted for buildings of this character. The work is very simple, and may be executed by the simplest methods. Information concerning the application and uses of the “felting” may be found in [Design XI.] We have before suggested that “there are circumstances that would justify the building of one part of a house first.” Should it be desirable, the central portion of this house could be built first, and would be found quite sufficient as the dwelling house of a small family, and the remainder added afterwards as required.... Estimate.—The following estimate has been carefully compiled, and may be relied on for quantities, etc. Prices vary in different localities, but the figures here given form a good basis of calculation:

Fig. 85.—FRONT ELEVATION OF FARM HOUSE.

Fig. 86.—PLAN OF CELLAR.

Fig. 87.—PLAN OF FIRST STORY.

Fig. 88.—PLAN OF SECOND STORY.

DESIGN XXII.
A HOUSE COSTING $2,800.

This plan of a suburban, or a country house, has all the advantages of the square form—providing convenient, commodious interior apartments, and has a simple, expressive outside dress, that compares favorably with more pretentious, expensive dwellings.... Exterior, ([fig. 89].)—The outlines of the main building are rounded and compact, indicating completeness and solidity. The front tower-like projection is a central and distinctive feature, around which the other parts are symmetrically balanced. The Porch and roofed balconies are simple and neat. The main roof, a new modification of the “Mansard roof,” is a conspicuous part, giving an expression of strength and unity to the design. The main cornice has full projections, with neat solid trusses, and is separated into sections by the chamber windows, giving relief from the monotony and depressing effects usual in all continuous horizontal lines. All the second story windows of the main building have projecting hoods appropriately interlaced with the principal roof work, securing pleasant shadows to those parts, and imparting a marked finish and variety. The dormer windows are triangular, and are placed immediately above those of the lower stories, prolonging the vertical lines of openings, to which they form a fitting termination.... First Story, ([fig. 90].)—Hight of ceiling, 10 feet. The usual front hall is dispensed with, and the stairway is placed where it is more convenient and accessible, and is not a conductor of cold drafts through the house. Many think it necessary to have stairways share with the parlors the most valuable and conspicuous position; they should more frequently be placed in some subordinate relation, without seeming to control the general arrangement. The entrance from the front porch is through double doors to the vestibule, and thence to either the parlor or family-room. Side doors lead to the pleasant and shady front balconies. The Parlor and Family-room are of equal size, and may be used as one spacious apartment by opening the sliding doors. The Dining-room is pleasantly situated, and opens into the family-room, rear entrance, and hallway. It has one large bay-window, and two plain ones, an open fire-place, and a dish or china closet, c. The Kitchen is isolated, relieving other rooms of its noise and odors, is convenient to the dining-room, cellar-stairway, and rear entrance, through the rear lobby, and has an open fire-place, closet, and large pantry, range, boiler, sink, wash-tubs, and the necessary pipes for water. The hall is central, accessible from the parlor, dining-room, and rear entrance, and is thoroughly lighted and ventilated by the window at the head of the stairs.... Second Story, ([fig. 91].)—Hight of ceiling, 8 feet. This story contains a hall, four good-sized chambers, with closets, and two windows to each. The Bath-room has bath-tub and seat. A Conservatory connects through sash doors with the two front chambers.... Attic, ([fig. 92].)—Hight of ceiling, 8 feet. The stairs to this are placed immediately above those to the second story, are ceiled in, with a door at the bottom. The rear portion is finished on a line with the two chimneys, into two bedrooms and a hall. The front portion is floored, but otherwise left unfinished as an open garret, valuable as a play-room for the children, a clothes drying-room, and many other purposes.... Construction.—The Foundation, of hard brick and good mortar, is shown by the Cellar plan, ([fig. 93].)—It shows four feet above the grade in front, and, if desirable, may show one-half that hight in the rear. There is usually sufficient earth taken from the cellar excavations to give such desirable grade as shall turn off all water from the immediate grounds and walks. The chimneys are also of hard brick, are independent of the foundations, and are carried up perfectly plumb to the roof, where they are finished with neat bases and caps. The central position of these chimneys is proof against cold-air openings at their sides, and insures saving the heat radiated from them. It is impossible to prevent cracks from appearing along the sides of chimneys in frame buildings, and when these cracks communicate directly with the outside covering, they often admit much cold air.—The principal frame is 20 ft. high, substantially constructed, as indicated by the upright section ([fig. 94]). The main plates are in line with the beams of the attic story, and the roof-purlins are 8 feet above them. The side-rafters are 12 feet long, fitted and spiked to the purlins and plates, with their lower ends extending 2½ feet down from the latter in a continuous line. Rough brackets connecting the rafters with the upright frame-work, forming the foundations or frame of the principal cornice. By this method of extending the rafters downward instead of upward, the desirable hight and proportion of roof are obtained. The exposed surfaces that require siding are reduced from the usual hight of 22½ feet to 16 feet, and the cornices are more substantial and less complex. The siding, roof-boarding, slating, and trimming are done in the usual manner. The gutters are laid in with the slate, as described in [Design V.] The hoods and dormer windows have slate coverings, interlaced with the principal roof, with joinings and flashings of sheet-lead. The following estimate provides for the thorough completion of the building in an appropriate and substantial manner.—Estimate:

Fig. 89.—FRONT ELEVATION.

Fig. 90.—PLAN OF FIRST FLOOR.