[All rights reserved.

THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN:

A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE
SUDAN GOVERNMENT.

EDITED BY
LIEUT.-COLONEL COUNT GLEICHEN, C.V.O., C.M.G., D.S.O.
(Late Director of Intelligence, Sudan Government and Egyptian Army, and Sudan Agent, Cairo.)

Volume II.
(ROUTES.)

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE,
BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE,
PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY.

And to be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from
WYMAN AND SONS, Ltd., Fetter Lane E.C.; or
OLIVER & BOYD, Edinburgh; or
E. PONSONBY, 116, Grafton Street, Dublin.

1905.
Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence.

(Wt. 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S 3874)

EDITORIAL NOTE TO VOLUME II.

The Routes in this Volume have been arranged according to the Chapters in Vol. I.

Additional matter is given in the shape of an Appendix, describing the main Routes leading out of the Sudan.

Almost the whole Volume has been edited by Captain H. H. S. Morant (Assistant Director of Intelligence), to whom my best thanks are due; Captain W. Lloyd is chiefly responsible for the excellent Routes in Kordofan.

Intermediate places where water is to be found (except those obviously on a river) are given in italics.

[It being impossible to provide a map showing even all the terminal places mentioned, intending travellers are referred to the map at the [end of Vol. I,] and to the Sudan Ordnance Survey Maps (scale, 1:250,000), a list of which is given in Vol. I, [ p. 349.]]

A certain number of copies of each Chapter in this Volume have been printed and bound separately in strong paper covers for practical use when travelling. Application in Egypt should be made to the Director of Intelligence, Egyptian War Office, Cairo, or to any Bookseller in Great Britain, of whom copies may be obtained, price One Shilling each.

G.

Berlin, 2nd April, 1905.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

VOL. II. (PART III.)
(ROUTES.)

CHAPTERS I and II.
Nil.
[CHAPTERIII.]
NORTH-EASTERNSUDAN.
PAGE
No.[1.] —No. 6 Station to Deraheib.(Talbot)1
„[2.] —Suakin to Berber —(α) Northerly route. (Sparkes)5
(β) Southerly „ „ 9
„[3.] —Berber to Kassala.(Various)12
„[4.] —Suakin to Tokar.(Various)14
„[5.] —Trinkitat to Tokar.(Bower)15
„6. —Suakin to Erkowit —[(α)] viâ Tamaneb and K. Arab.(Powell)16
[(β)] viâ Kolkalai Pass.(Powell)16
„7. —Erkowit to Sinkat —[(α)] viâ Baramil Plains.(Powell)17
[(β)] viâ K. Gebet.(Powell)17
„[8.] —Kassala to Suakin,viâ Filik and Maman. (Mitford)18
„[9.] —Tokar to Kassala,viâ K. Baraka. (Various)22
„[10.] —Kassala to Maman direct.(Morant)26
„[11.] —Adarama to Bir Oshi (K.Langeb). (Kenrick)27
„[12.] —El Getite to Adarama.(Kenrick)29
„[13.] —Umbrega to Sofi.(Morant)30
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[123.] —Aswan to Deraheib.(Appendix)195
„[19.] —Gedaref to Kassala. (Chap.IV)41
„[14.] —Khartoum N. to Kassala.(Chap. IV)32
„[124.] —Kassala to Massaua.(Appendix)196
„[125.] —Takarashorit to Umbrega.(Appendix)200
[CHAPTERIV.]
EASTERN SUDAN.
No.[14.] —Khartoum N. to Kassala,viâ Geili, Rera and Asubri. (Talbot,Boulnois and Morant)32
„[15.] —Goz Regeb to Shendi,viâ Abu Deleig. (Boulnois)36
„[16.] —El Damer to Fasher.(Bulkeley Johnson)36
„[17.] —Khartoum N. to Abu Deleig.(Native information)39
„[18.] —Rufaa to Geili.(Talbot)40
„[19.] —Gedaref to Kassala.(Mitford and Morant)41
„[20.] — „ Gallabat. (Collinsonand Morant)43
„[21.] —Abu Haraz to Gedaref.(Mitford)45
„[22.] —Gedaref, viâ Hawata,to Abu Haraz. (Bulkeley Johnson)47
„[23.] —Sofi viâ Abu Guludto Seraf Said. (Smith)48
„[24.] —Famaka to Abu Ramla.(Gwynn)49
„[25.] —Karkoj to Hawata. (BonhamCarter)50
„[26.] —Roseires to Abu Shaneina.(Gwynn)50
„[27.] —Senga, viâ Durraba,to Um El Rug. (Amery)51
„[28.] —Mouth of Khor Gelagu (Dinder)to Gallabat. (Amery)52
„[29.] —Gallabat to Wad Medani,viâ R. Rahad. (Lewin)53
„[30.] —Itinerary of Blue Nile.(Amery)57
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[126.] —Gallabat to Chelga.(Appendix)202
„[127.] —Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa.(Appendix)204
„[128.] —Addis Abbaba to Gallabat.(Appendix)206
„[130.] —Roseires to Dunkur.(Appendix)215
„[131.] —Dunkur to Gallabat.(Appendix)217
[CHAPTERV.]
CENTRAL SUDAN.
No.[31.] —Khartoum to Wad Medani,Sennar, Senga and Karkoj (L. B. Blue Nile).(Compiled)61
„[32.] —Khartoum to Goz Abu Guma andJebelein, viâ R. B. White Nile. (Conolly,Boulnois)63
„[33.] — „ Gule, viâ Managil andSegadi. (Morant)66
„[34.] —Managil to Sennar.(Smyth)70
„[35.] —Keili, viâ Gule, toSenga. (Gorringe)70
„[36.] —Senga to Jerok, viâK. Ofat. (Roberts)71
„[37.] —Roseires to Keili,viâ Gule. (Smith)73
„[38.] —Fazogli to Gezan.(Jackson)73
„[39.] —Gezan to Kurmuk.(Gwynn)75
„[40.] —Gule to Renk.(Morant)75
„[41.] —Jebelein to Renk.(Wilson)76
„[42.] —Renk to Kaka Old WoodStation. (Morant)77
„[43.] — „ Kodok (R. B.) partly alongTelegraph line. (Wilson)79
„[44.] —J. Ahmed Agha to Awitong andKash-Kash. (Wilson)82
„[45.] —Itinerary up Khor Adar.(Wilson)83
„[46.] —J. Jerok to Wad Deluka (52miles S.E. of Melut). (Smith)84
„[47.] —Uryong (Sobat) to oppositeKodok. (Gwynn)85
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[133.] —Kirin to Kodok.(Appendix)222
„[132.] —Fazogli to Kirin.(Appendix)218
„[129.] —Addis Abbaba to Famaka.(Appendix)210
[CHAPTERVI.]
SOUTH-EASTERNSUDAN.
No.[48.] —Nasser to Uryong.(Gwynn)87
„[49.] —Gokjak to Keik (Khor Filus).(Wilson)88
„[50.] —Itinerary up the Bahr ElZeraf. (Stanton)90
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[47.] —Uryong to opposite Kodok.(Chapter V)85
„[134.] —K. Bosuk, viâ K.Eine, to Goha. (Appendix)225
„[135.] —Goha, viâ K. Barsu,to Bosuk. (Appendix)225
„[136.] —Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa.(Appendix)226
„[137.] —Asosa to K. Bosuk,viâ K. Surgalla. (Appendix)227
„[138.] —Gore to Abwong.(Appendix)227
[CHAPTER VII.]
BAHR EL GHAZAL.
No.[51.] —Meshra el Rek to Tonj.(Lloyd)93
„[52.] —Wau to Meshra el Rek.(Lloyd)94
„[53.] —Tonj Post to Wau.(Lloyd)95
„[54.] —Tonj Post to Rikta’s Village.(Lloyd)97
„[55.] —Wau to Tembura.(Bethel)99
„[56.] —Wau to Deim Zubeir.(Boulnois and Sparkes)100
„[57.] —Chak Chak to Deim Zubeir.(Fell)101
„[58.] —Deim Zubeir to Kossinga.(Boulnois)102
„[59.] —Kossinga to Wau.(Boulnois)103
„[60.] — „ Hofrat el Nahas.(Sparkes)104
„[61.] —Ragaa to Deim Zubeir.(Sparkes)105
„[62.] —Kojali to Tonj.(Sparkes)106
„[63.] —Tonj to Rumbek.(Armstrong)107
„[64.] —Rumbek to Shambe.(Armstrong)108
„[65.] —Rumbek to Darago’s andM’volo. (Wood)109
„[66.] —M’volo to Kiro.(Sparkes)109
„[67.] —Rumbek to Awodi.(Armstrong)111
„[68.] — „ Mangi’s.(Boardman)113
N.B.—Another route which applies tothis chapter is:—
No.[101.] —El Obeid to Dar El Jange.(Chapter VIII)151
[CHAPTERVIII.]
KORDOFAN.
No.[69.] —Sheikh Sadik to Homra.(Various)117
„[70.] —El Dueim to Homra.(Various)117
„[71.] —Homra to El Obeid,viâ Bara. (Various)118
„[72.] —El Dueim to Obeid,viâ Hashaba. (Lloyd and More)119
„[73.] —Gedid to El Dueim,viâ Um Deisis. (Lloyd and Talbot)120
„[74.] —Shat Wells to El Obeid,viâ J. Kon. (Talbot and Lloyd)120
„[75.] —Shawal to Gedid, Dar ElAhamda and Tagale. (Morant)122
„[76.] —Goz Abu Guma to Dar ElAhamda. (Morant)124
„[77.] — „ „ El Obeid, viâSherkeila and Rahad. (Leveson)125
„[78.] —Gedid to El Rahad.(Lloyd)126
„[79.] —Kaka to opposite Jebelein.(Wilson)127
„[80.] —Omdurman to El Safia Wells.(Smyth)129
„[81.] —Debba to El Obeid,viâ Safia. (Currie)130
„[82.] —Shegeig to El Showa,viâ Kagmar. (Lloyd)131
„[83.] —Bara to Kagmar.(Lloyd)132
„[84.] —El Obeid to Foga,viâ Masrub. (Lloyd)133
„[85.] — „ „ viâ Gleit, etc.(Carter)134
„[86.] —Abu Agaga to Bara.(O’Connell)135
„[87.] —Foga to Kaja (Bir Soderi).(Mahon)136
„[88.] —Nahud to El Fasher.(Carter)137
„[89.] — „ Bur Islam.(Townsend)137
„[90.] — „ Foga. (Lloyd andWilkinson)138
„[91.] —Foga to Um Badr.(Wilkinson)139
„[92.] —Bara to Foga.(O’Connell)140
„[93.] —Nahud to El Eddaiya andMuglad. (Mahon)141
„[94.] —Foga to El Eddaiya,viâ Kaja Serrug. (Carter)142
„[95.] —El Obeid to Nahud (direct).(Meyricke)143
„[96.] — „ „ viâ Abu Zabbat.(Lloyd and Townsend)144
„[97.] — „ El Eddaiya, viâSungikai. (Lloyd and Townsend)145
„[98.] — „ Keraia (J. Tagale),viâ J. Daier. (Various)146
„[99.] —Keraia to Rashad and Gedir.(Various)148
„[100.] —Kaka to Gedir.(Mahon)148
„[101.] —El Obeid to Dar El Jange.(Wilkinson)151
„[102.] —River Kir to Fauwel.(Wilkinson)156
„[103.] —El Obeid to Sungikai,viâ El Atshan. (Lyall)157
„[104.] —Dilling to El Obeid,viâ Sungikai, etc. (Lyall)157
„[105.] —Routes in Dar Nuba.(Leveson)158
[CHAPTER IX.]
NORTH-WESTERNSUDAN.
No.[106.] —Selima to Nile, oppositeKosha. (Hodgson)167
„[107.] —Dongola to Lagia El Kebir.(Hodgson)167
„[108.] — „ Bir Sultan.(Hodgson)169
„[109.] —Debba to El Obeid.(Compiled)171
„[110.] — „ Omdurman.(Ravenscroft)172
„[111.] — „ „ viâ Elai.(Compiled)174
„[112.] —Ambugol or Korti to Metemma.(Compiled)174
„[113.] —Korti to Bayuda and Sedeiri.(Bunbury and Sudley)178
„[114.] —Merowe to Jakdul.(Talbot)179
„[115.] — „ Berber. (Smyth andFriend)181
„[116.] —Sani to El Zuma, viâJura. (Henry)181
„[117.] —Jura to Kirbekan.(Henry)182
„[118.] —Omdurman to Gabra.(Talbot)183
„[119.] —Gabra to Korti.(Talbot)184
„[120.] —Korti to Bayuda Wells.(Talbot)186
„[121.] —Bayuda Wells to Tangasi.(Talbot)187
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[81.] —Debba to El Obeid,viâ Safia. (Chapter VIII)130
„[122.] —Arbain Road. (Appendix)189
[APPENDIX.]
ROUTES PARTLYOUTSIDE THE SUDAN.
No.[122.] —The Arbain Road.(Various)189
„[123.] —Aswan to Deraheib.(Bramly)195
„[124.] —Kassala to Massaua.(Morant)196
„[125.] —Takarashorit (K. Gash) toUmbrega (Setit). (Morant)200
„[126.] —Gallabat to Chelga.(Parker)202
„[127.] —Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa.(Parker)204
„[128.] —Addis Abbaba, viâGojjam and L. Tsana, to Gallabat. (Baird)206
„[129.] — „ to Famaka.(Gwynn)210
„[130.] —Roseires to Abu Ramla andDunkur. (Gwynn)215
„[131.] —Dunkur to Gallabat.(Gwynn)217
„[132.] —Fazogli to Kirin.(Jackson)218
„[133.] —Kirin to Kodok.(Gwynn)222
„[134.] —K. Bosuk, viâ K.Eine, to Goha. (Smith)225
„[135.] —Goha, viâ K. Barsu,to Bosuk. (Smith)225
„[136.] —Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa.(Smith)226
„[137.] —Asosa to K. Bosuk,viâ Surgalla. (Smith)227
„[138.] —Gore to Abwong.(Wilson)227
„[139.] —Gondokoro to Uganda.(Dugmore)231
„[140.] —Roads in the Lado Enclave.(Various)236

[Map]

Part III.
ROUTES.

CHAPTERS I. and II.
(Nil.)

CHAPTER III.

(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)

1.—No. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) to DERAHEIB.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1902.

General.The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.

Nature of road.There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.

Water.Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.

Fuel and shade.Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.

Grain.No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.

Place.Hamla Hours.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.Inter-mediate.Total.
No. 6 Station (S.G.R.)————No. 6 Station on Halfa-Khartoum Railway,127 miles from Halfa, and 1,555 feet above sea level.
British foreman. Telegraph office.
No station buildings nor accommodationfor persons detained there.
Well with steam pump gives 12,000 gallonsdaily. Water contains some salts, but drinkable. Nile water can beobtained for small parties from station supply. Some “selem” bushesgive firewood and a little grazing for camels. No inhabitantsexcept railway staff. No supplies.
Is the base of the staff of the Egypt andSudan Mining Syndicate now developing Um Nabari or Nabadimine.
77——The track, now pretty well marked, makesstraight for the N. end of J. Keheli, after rounding which it makesfor J. Mindara, keeping a couple of miles to the N. of it. Roadpractically level and mostly good trotting surface, though sand alittle heavy in places.
3¼10¼——Road crosses a low saddle and descendsinto one of the branches of the Wadi Murrat, amongst a lot of lowtangled hills. After following the wadi for 300 yards or so,another saddle is crossed to cut off a bend, after which the wadiis followed till it joins the main wadi, just before the fort ofMurrat is reached.
Murrat111¼—34The engineer of the Egypt and SudanMining Syndicate has fitted a pump in one of the wells in the wadi,which gives cleaner, though not less bitter water than before. TheArabs and Berberi servants drink it uncomplainingly, but Europeansare advised to avoid it if they can. About 10 miles slightly N. ofW. up the main Wadi Murrat is the site of the Um Nabari or Nabadimine, now being developed by the Company. Road quite easy along thewadi.
1½35½On leaving Murratfort the track keeps down the wadi for 1½ miles, then turns off tothe left over somewhat stony ground, and, crossing a saddle and thehead of another affluent of the Wadi Murrat about 1½ miles furtheron, descends easily into the basin of the Wadi Dayob. Acrossslightly undulating ground, aiming just to the left of J. AbuDayob, a rocky sand-covered hill (with a pillar on the top) which,though only 200 or 300 feet high, stands up well amidst itssurroundings, and turns down the wadi past its northern foot.
112¼1½37
1¾14441
½41½
½14½½42Along the wadi passing a gorge about 50yards wide; wadi then turns rather to S.E. There is some camelgrazing here.
115½——Road now turns to left out of wadi, and,after crossing low ridges for about one hour and passing near some“selem” bushes in one of the wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 milebroad, and heads generally for J. Kerar Berar.
½163¾45¾Half-a-mile further on J. Mosiai (pillaron top) is at right angles about 1 to 2 miles distant on left.
1½17½——Track leaves plainover low ridges and descends by gentle slope obliquely to WadiMosiai. There are a few of the peculiar dom palms of the countryabove where wadi is struck, and a little “selem” and some scrubbyplants below. Track keeps down wadi generally, till it gets wellclear of the low hills, when it turns half left over open plain,good going, and passes an isolated patch of “selem” bushes inGabgaba.
118½——
1¾20¼——
W. Gabgaba222¼1661¾The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ to 1½ mileswide in places, consisting of several channels separated by flatgravel. The bed itself is sandy, honeycombed with rat holes, andvery bad going. Immense quantities of the “handal” plant grow init, and in years of good rainfall dura is cultivated.
2¼24½667¾Track, leaving the wadi half right, keepsover a gravel plain with gentle slopes till it strikes the W. TelatAbda just outside the low hills.
There is plenty of “selem” in the wadi,giving good camel grazing and abundance of firewood.
Bir Telat Abda327½8¼76Track keeps up wadi, occasionally makingshort cuts to right to get better going, as wadi is heavy inplaces, to well at foot of rather higher hill on left bank whichhas two stone pillars.
The well gives good water, but not verymuch of it. About ¼ mile higher up under the right bank where thewadi forks is another well generally used for watering camels. Fromhere the roads to Abu Tabag and Naba branch. That to Naba keepsstraight on, that is up the right-hand branch of the fork. Naba isabout 17 miles from Telat Abda, whence it draws its drinking water.Near Telat Abda well is a sayal tree that gives good shade.
J. Liseiwi330½682The track starts up the Khor Liseiwi, orleft-hand branch of the fork, past the upper well, but soon turnsto right from it to cut off a corner, and drops into the khor againat a water hole (generally dry) under Jebel Liseiwi (marked by apillar).
W. Abaraga232½688Keeps up khor and, crossing a low saddle,descends into Wadi Abaraga.
¼32¾¾88¾Keeps up wadi, whichis well wooded with selem, sayal and the single-stemmed fan palm(Medemia argun), and passes some wells close under leftbank. The wadi flows through very broken low hills, 200 to 400 feethigh.
½33¼1½90¼
1¼34½3½93¾Track issues on to open space where thehills recede and wadis come in from all directions.
——497¾Track now turns N.E.,passing between some low hills over gravelly plain, and turns S.E.up wadi, now confined between rounded reddish hills. The palms havenow ceased, but selem is still found. The hills soon get lower andwadi less confined.
——4¼102
——4½106½A track from Hesmet Omar.
——2¼108¾Saddle at head ofWadi Abaraga is reached, easy ascent and descent commenced overgently sloping gravel to the Wadi Abu Bard which flows through anopen valley 2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of wood in wadi.
Wadi Abu Bard7¾42¼2¼111
——2113The same direction iscontinued across the wadi till a low saddle is crossed, and trackdescends a branch of Abu Bard for a little more than a mile; thenacross an open space N.E. up an affluent of the same branch till itcrosses a low saddle at its head and descends into an affluent ofthe Wadi Hesmet Omar. This part is very stony and severe on plainscamels, though the gradients are not heavy. The track keeps downthe valley, crossing a couple of affluents bounded by low hills,till it reaches another low, but stony saddle, whence it descendsinto and crosses an affluent of the Wadi Abu Tabag or Wadi Ga;after another 2 miles of stony ground the track descends intoanother branch of the Abu Tabag wadi, which it follows till itreaches the well.
——3½116½
——5121½
——2123½
Abu Tabag5½47¾2125½
The valley opens out a bit here, thoughimmediately over the well there are low hills which still carry thebreastworks erected by Beshir Bey’s men as a protection againstdervishes.
The well is about 20 feet deep, of whichthe lower 12 feet, is revetted with stone. Plenty of water. Manysmall partridges.
An Inspector’s rest house has been builthere. Some fine sayal trees.
There are a number of dom palms trying tocome up, but none have succeeded in showing any trunk yet.
The wadi here is, I believe, called theWadi Ga, but I am not sure.
Wadi Ga——2127½The track continuesdown the wadi for 2 miles and turns off to the left over flat andundulating ground; easy going for some miles, the general directionbeing a little to the left of J. Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga(plenty of selem) and cuts over a low saddle at the north end ofKirmai.
4¼5210137½
Wadi Abu Kitabab——2139½After about 2 more miles, heavy going,over sand-covered ridges the track descends into the Wadi AbuKitabab, which joins the Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below where thetrack crosses it. There are plenty of trees of several differentsorts.
2543142½Road continues up wadi for 3 miles to apoint where it forks.
——4146½The southern branchis also called Abu Kitabab. The track to Sohanit and Onib, viâMashushenai well (very little water), ascends it. Theother branch is called Ebeirid. After ascending it for 4 miles, lowsaddle is crossed; after 4½ more miles of mostly very stony ground,ending in a short and very rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala isreached. This wadi is here well wooded. Lots of marakh. The trackascends it a short distance and then turns up a side khor, out ofit to left into another and over an easy saddle down into WadiBitna or Butna; confined bed, high hills on right bank.
Wadi Abdelala3½57½4½151
1½594½155½Top of Mashushenai just visible, a fewselem and a good many samr trees.
Wells1½60½4159½Track keeps down wadi, cutting off one ortwo corners, stony, but not very bad going. The bed gets narrowerand low cliffs more perpendicular till wells are reached at a placewhere a projecting cliff appears to bar the passage. Just beforereaching it some tombs are passed.
There are two wells or water holes about5 feet in diameter, surface of water 6 feet below bed of wadi. Lotsof good water.
262½4½164The track continues, original direction,for about ½ mile and then turns E., and a mile further on meets theWadi Elei coming from the S.E. The united wadi now flows a littleE. of N., the hills diminish and the valley increases in width andthe vegetation decreases. After 2 miles the track turns off toright, up what was a good track a year or so ago, but is now barredby waves of sand. After some three miles, most part of which isvery heavy going, the track descends into the broad and ill definedbed of an affluent of the Wadi Elei. Little grazing.
3½6610174Over bare undulatingplain, dotted with hummocky ridges of decomposed granite more orless covered with sand. Good going till a low and easy watershed iscrossed and track descends easily to Wadi Nasari, a broad wellwooded wadi that comes from Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Alagi afew miles N. of where the track strikes it. Track crosses wadi inthe direction of Jebel Eigat and, passing through some low hills,reaches the Wadi Alagi. Track quite easy.
Wadi Nasari1¼67¼3177
Wadi Alagi1½68¾4181
The Wadi Alagi here is at least ½ milewide, bounded by low hills on both banks, but rising higher behindon the right bank. It contains many refreshingly green trees ofseveral sorts, marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, arak, &c.
Wadi Taimurit270¾6187Up wadi, which narrows to about 300 to400 yards. It is joined on the left bank by a khor called Taimurit,up which there is a waterhole, good water. On the right bankopposite it is a hill conspicuously higher than the majority ofthose that overhang the wadi.
On both banks are remains of houses, anda quartz reef is conspicuous on the left bank. The latitude ofjunction of Taimurit and Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so most, if not all,the reef is north of 22°. It shows marks of having beenprospected.
Wadi Neshd171¾3190One hour further on, where the wadichanges the direction of its flow from S.W. to N.W., some tombsclose under the right bank are a landmark for the Wadi Neshd, whichcomes in on the left bank opposite. There is good water in the WadiNeshd.
Wadi Kamotit273¾6196The wadi now begins to wind more. Twohours further on the Wadi Kamotit on right bank is passed. There isgood water a short way up it.
Deraheib4¼7812208The wadi now begins to wriggle aboutwithout, however, much decreasing in width. The hills on eitherside continue to be of no great height, and in one or two placesthe track crosses low saddles to cut off corners; good trees allthe way.
Water————At Deraheib is a ruined castle of stoneset in mud, with two or three pointed arches set in lime. Anotherbuilding of nearly equal size in plan, but not so high, and theruins of a number of houses and shelters are on the left bank. Onthe right bank, nearly opposite, are a number of ruined stonehouses arranged in streets, and covering 3 to 4 acres. They arebuilt in stone and mud, but a few arches in lime are to be seen.The ruins are evidently greatly filled in and might possibly repayexcavation. There are small stone shelters of the same kind upvarious khors. The nearest water now is 2 or 3 miles offup a wadi that joins the left bank of the Alagi about 1½ milesfurther up.
The latitude of the N.W. corner of the ruinedcastle is 21° 56′ 48·5″.
On the low hills on left bank, within ½mile of the fort, are a number of shafts sunk in the reef which ishere very apparent. In December there were very few Arabs in theWadi Alagi. In the summer there are many.
The rate of the hamla has been taken at2½ to 3 miles per hour, as, I think, my camels went. Neither timesnor distances, therefore, can be relied on absolutely.

2.—SUAKIN to BERBER.

Roads.There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, viâ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.

The second route, viâ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.

(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]

Major W. S. Sparkes, October, 1897, and December and January, 1897-98.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Road runs in north-westerly directionalongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road,and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plaincovered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise allway to Handub.
Handub Well1010Water here practically unlimited,slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels.Water about 20 feet down.
313Track enters hills, which gradually closein on either side, going still good and gentle rise.
Otao Well619Two wells here, giving good water, holesin ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for twocompanies infantry and their transport. Formation level of oldrailway ends here.
Tambuk Well524Good water, supply practically unlimited,now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fueland grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road,Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down.
226To here going stony and rough, thenthrough a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs allalong.
Khor Ossaud531A sudden, short,sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, anddown to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellentgoing.
Olip132
Khor Adit133Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat,which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles,many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camelsgrazing. Junction of khor, called Olip.
336Track bends suddenly to right, andcrosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut,main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. Thiswould make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles fromTambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could befound if sunk for.
Dissibil (well)743One large well, which is merely holescooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar waterholes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practicallyunlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing.
Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs;many gazelle and rock grouse and doves.
447Track crosses small pass or agaba, thenceruns under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chainof low stone hills on right, going fair all time.
Odrus754Track debouches onwide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; iscovered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up tohere, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrowkhor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity ofdura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and toeastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. Thisis 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting placefor infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel,and grazing. A gradual rise from here.
Tekarti660
3¼63¼On right of track, under low hill,several stone huts of Hamdab tribe.
265¼Wadi Odrus ends and track crossesoutlying stony ridges of Amud range.
267¼A sharp gradient andhighest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level.A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which,however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms,leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stonehills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, andpatches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, knownas Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stonerevetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough woodhuts on other side of well.
Khor Hareitri (well) (Tamai)¾68
¾68¾
Adel Aweb[3]3¼72Rain pools found all along edges of khor,and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantitygood water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few monthsafter rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere inkhor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazingand fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rockgrouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long.
173Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plaincalled Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated.
1½74½A few huts on right, and some dura grownin good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel andgrazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found.
478½Track crosses low rough ridges for ½mile.
Salalat (well)½79Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, asandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, isBir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wellscould easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and somefair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on aspermanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years.
3½82½A slight rise brings track to levelplateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leadingdown to Khor Furd.
2½85A very large patch cultivation dependenton rainfall, nothing could be grown this year.
5½90½Across a neck, high irregular-shapedrocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left.Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground,suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From herevegetation gradually ceases.
292½Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridgewith high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and trackalong base of outlying spurs and ridges.
Khor Kokreb3½96Agaba or pass leadingto Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep androcky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor isentered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, watera few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but otherscould be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimitedsupply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well goodcamp ground, water, fuel, and grazing.
Hayaba (well)197
Sarbit (well)1½98½Revetted stone well, good water about 10feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, andgrazing.
4102½Track, now well to right of khor, runsover a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand,then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rockychain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in.
1½104Hills now come in from north at rightangles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under thesehills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection oftukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thickthorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front andflanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosenposition as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and shortdefile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widenssomewhat.
El Matar (well)1½105½A hole scooped in ground, good water afew feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could bequickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, andfuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two oldgraveyards.
Abd El Haabit (well)1½107Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, oneon track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor,good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, beforerefilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but couldeasily be reopened.
All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb,which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here andthere, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor inall about 10 miles, when it branches to right.
Track now enters wide open plain of blackstone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarsepatches of grass.
5112Stone ceases, and firm sand takes itsplace.
2½114½Track bends to right among patches ofhuge boulders.
Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain,a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-likemasses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leadsstraight on to it.
Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half wayto Berber)1½116Above-mentioned landmark is passed, itlies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth,oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while otherblock dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerablelean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, onleft, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by nativesas half way to Berber.
Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga2½118½Track now winds for 2 miles round base of lowstony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grassand stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left alsospread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hillson right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain calledWadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, butindifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. YungulPlain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. Alittle over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarsegrass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Twoconnected hillocks of white marble being a prominent featureimmediately to left of track.
6½125
3128The Ariab valley is entered, it is thickwith scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats,&c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report thereis a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, butthat it gives but little water.
Ariab[5] (well)3131Three miles up valley are Ariab wells.One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practicallyunlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one givesplentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good campground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rockgrouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goessouth-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left,somewhat bad going.
Level plain, covered tufts coarse grass,half stony, half sandy, good going.
Through low hills, rather bad going.
Wadi Barud——Wide level plain, covered coarse grass,good going.
Wadi O’Duruk——Level plain, good going, some coarsescrub, stunted trees.
Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passesto left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across asmall khor, and then winds among low stone hills.
Wadi Temartua——Good going, partly firm sand, partlystony.
Khor Laiameb44175A broad khor running about east and west,almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain,about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarsegrass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing KhorLaiameb again goes over hilly stony ground.
Jebel O’Fik2½177½On right of track country open and levelagain, a few trees and some grass here.
Wadi Tatua——After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatuais entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen indistance; good going.
5½183Across a low ridge, going stillgood.
Plain becomes covered with small mimosabushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and driftsare entered.
Obak (well)9192Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons whenfull; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Nativessay that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but havefallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel.
For 3 miles after Obak track lies throughheavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, onlyoccasional sand.
14206Some trees and grass here; suitable campground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well.
Jebel Eremit2208A low granite hill on left of track.
Abu Odfa5213Curious-shaped mass of rock on right oftrack.
Wadi Abu Selim21234Some trees and grass; water couldprobably be found. Site of proposed well.
Maho Bey (well)11245Good revetted well, 40 feet down, coveredby mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply,good camping ground, fuel and grazing.
Berber6251Except for first 3 miles all going fromObak to Berber excellent.

SUMMARY of WELLS on NORTHERLY ROUTE.

Name of well.Distance apart.Description.
Miles.
Handub10[6]Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.
Otao9One well, hole in khor; good water could be developed.
Tambuk5Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited supply.
Dissibil19One well, good water hole in khor, at present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be increased at will.
Tamai25In Khor Hareitri; well also by some called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water; well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai.
Salalat11One and a-half miles to left of road, two wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40 feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours to refill.
Hayaba18Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time.
Sarbit1½In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet down, revetted stone.
Matar7Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.
Id El Haabit1½Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half battalion, could be developed.
Ariab24One very large well, revetted stone, good water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and transport, and could be developed.
Obak61One large stone revetted well, giving excellent supply of good water.
Maho Bey52Large stone revetted well, good water, large supply.

(β)—BERBER to SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).

The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.

Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.

A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.

For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.

(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, viâ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, and SINKAT.

By Major W. S. Sparkes, November, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Berber——
Maho Bey66Vide report on north road.
Khor Abu Selim1117 „ „
Abu Odfa2138 „ „
Eramit543 „ „
Obak Wells1659 „ „
Ofik1473 „ „
4½77½Track to Rauai branches away to right.Also a track to Rauai a few miles after leaving Obak.
1½79Through low stony hills and Khor Laiamebis struck; track runs straight along khor. Going good; a gradualrise; Khor Wusser runs side by side with Laiameb, and appears toform part of it.
1796Track leaves Khor Laiameb and crosses lowneck of rock; low black stone hills on right hand; scatteredboulders, some of similar shape to Abu Odfa on left hand. Hillsgradually close in, and track crosses stony but not difficultagaba, or pass, some ¾ mile long.
¾96¾A path to left leads over hills toAriab.
1¾98½Over stony khor, then into hills again,and is stony, steep, bad going.
Rauai Wells2100½Stony sort of square,surrounded By stone hills, with a narrow khor running out eachcorner. Large graveyard on right. A few mimosa trees and somecoarse grass. Indifferent camping ground. Wells ½ mile up a narrow,rocky defile, running from east corner of square; two wells,revetted stone, good water 15 feet down; practically unlimitedsupply. This defile impassable for animals, which must go by easierway over hills to south-west, and then down side of hill again tothe wells. Some rough drawings of camels, men, &c., scratchedon rocks round wells. Rock grouse and partridges here. Track nowruns north-west over short agaba, across a stony khor, and again anagaba winding over bare, stony hills; bad going; then a long,narrow, sandy khor; fair-going; then a rough, stony agaba leadingover hills called Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; thence into KhorThela, a short agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small khor same name, athead of Ariab valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles west of north fromhere; one well good water 30 feet down, enough for one battalion,which would require 1½ hours to refill; good grazing ground andfuel. Some gazelle and grouse; north road about 3 miles from well.Going from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a succession of stonyagabas. Prom here cross stony neck, then across head of Ariabvalley. Pass Jebel Bokmaali on left hand, cross a stony neck,and
Makadia Wells14½115
Yungul4119Reach Wadi Yungul; north road about 8miles to left; 4 miles, then cross another stony neck, and WadiBeakwa, called by Arabs halfway to Suakin.
Khor Atbai7½126½Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross olddura patch, none this year on account of bad rains. Over two sandyand stony ridges and
Wadi Kokreb3½130Enter Kokreb valley; good going, firmsand, and thick with trees and shrubs. Over some stony ridgesand
Khor Olowe2½132½Enter Khor Olowe, still a part ofKokreb.
Magwala Wells3½136Two wells, good water, 75 feet down,sufficient for one battalion; would require some hours to refill;these wells are said by Arabs to be oldest on road; they arerevetted granite, which is deeply grooved all round from constanthauling up of water. Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, who havehuts close here. Many hods, or earth-made drinking pans, round eachwell. Some old Dervish “tukuls,” which used to be occupied by adetachment, for collecting taxes. Good camp ground, fuel andgrazing, pigeons and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells of Abd ElHaabit lie some 7 or 8 miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, about 8miles to north-east; Jebel Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on northroad, is seen some 6 miles to north of west from here.
Khor now gradually gets bare andintersected by strips of stone.
4140Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, goingindifferent, cut up by small watercourses over a ridge.
Wadi Habub3143Wadi Habub. Going still indifferent,across many ridges running into khor, 5½ miles on; track runs alongedge of hills, and then enters the Komotitai hills by very stonyand difficult agaba or pass, about 1½ miles long, then into sandykhor, full of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up this khor to the
Kamotitai Wells11154Wells of same name, i.e.,Kamotitai, three wells, revetted stone, good water 25 feet downunlimited supply. Many other wells in this khor now closed up; muchused by Arabs, and at each well numerous hods. Good camp ground,fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and pigeons in abundance.
A short way past wells, track bends to leftpast large graveyard; then across alternate khors and ridges;indifferent going.
Khor Arab7161Thick with trees of all sorts, andconsiderable cultivation in good season. Two deep watercoursescrossed soon after entering khor; 3 miles on the track runs tonorth of khor, over stony ridges, with low stone hills on eitherhand.
Jebel Okwer7168Jebel Okwer begins on left of khor,several small pyramid-shaped hills on right, and khor stretchingaway beyond them.
Khor Amate Wells3½171½Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate begins;track running across large patch of old cultivation into a sandykhor; one well some 200 yards to right, another ½ mile straight on.There is a third well, now closed. These wells, revetted wood, goodwater 12 feet down; supply practically unlimited; many hods. Goodcamp ground, fuel and grazing. A stone hut close to well, and placethick with sheep and goats, and some cattle.
Track from here runs north-west, oversmall agaba into narrow khor thick with trees. Okwer range still onleft; low hills on right 3½ miles, and hills on right hand, andtrack again enters main Khor Amate. Batta range on far right and infront; ½ mile on Okwer range ends.
4½176Track to wells of Abu Golodaruns north from here.
3½179½End of Khor Amate, and Batta rangeentered by fairly easy agaba, running east 1½ miles; then crosssmall stony khor, then another agaba through smaller hills, goingbad.
Hormareb Well3½183Jebel Homugwer away in distance to right,¾ mile off track to north in small khor same name, Bir Hormareb;one well, good water 25 feet down; supply about 1,000 gallons;requires some hours to refill. Several hods round well; goodgrazing and fuel, indifferent ground. Another wellreported, same description, 3 or 4 miles further up khor to north.From here bad going, over stony ridges and small khors.
Wadi Ma’areit3½186½Large graveyard on right, and track turnssharp to left up Wadi Ma’areit, a broad level valley, running northand south; good going, and considerable cultivation after goodrains. This year a few patches dura. North-west corner of valleythickly studded with trees, and was in old days a favourite summerresort of people from Suakin.
6½193Hills close right in on either side, andthe narrow wooded Khor Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; trackbends north-east, 1½ miles on, and cross a flat khor, with sparsevegetation, thick with flocks.
Now over alternate rough ridges and smallragged khors. 2½ miles down a sharp agaba into a small khor, greenand sweet smelling, then wind round base of hills miles, and enterKhor Tabikuk.
Khor Tabikuk7½200½Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a ridge,and view Sinkat valley, green and thick with people and flocks;down small agaba, over low ridge, and enter valley.
Sinkat Well4½205One large well, good water 25 feet down;unlimited supply. Several large gemmeiza trees round wells giveexcellent shade; ruins old Egyptian fort also close to wells. Largevillage in valley, with several thousand people, built partly strawhuts, partly Arab tents, small bazaar, and large stores ofgum.
Good ground, fuel and grazing. Khor Aditleads from north Sinkat valley towards Khor Ossaud.
Track from well runs east across valley,then over low ridge across two deep watercourses, and up a stony,gradually-narrowing khor, which winds through the hills.
Khor Gebet6½211½A short but bad agaba, a small khor, aridge, another small khor, another ridge and Khor Gebet; about 3miles up this khor to right are two wells.
3214½Commencement of the great Sinkat Agaba orPass, along which track runs for 3½ miles; very bad, difficultgoing, practically impassable for wheeled artillery, and would bealtogether impracticable but for the work done years ago by MumtazPasha, then Governor of Suakin. In this agaba the Khor Gwob rises,which, gradually widening, eventually reaches the sea some 7 milessouth of Suakin.
Khor Gwob3½218End of agaba, and good going over firmsand; gradual descent down khor, which gradually widens. Hills oneither side, thick with tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge boulderson each side also protruding from bed of khor. Pools of water, withthick reeds here and there, in which were many teal; also manypartridges, rock grouse, and pigeons in khor.
Tamanib6224Unlimited supply, good running water;fair camp ground; excellent grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattlegrazing here.
Road now leaves Khor Gwob and turns toright; runs over low ridges, with small khors between; full ofgazelle, ariel and hares.
10234Hills cease, and a straight down-hill runinto Suakin, over plain covered with coarse vegetation.
Suakin10244Suakin.

3.—BERBER to KASSALA.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum, from Various Sketches and Reports, June, 1902.

This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position.

As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.

Guides.The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras, i.e., those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.

Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them.

Rest houses.There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.

Grazing.There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.

Travellers.Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.

Supplies.No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.

Game.There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.

Inhabitants.Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Berber——From Berber the road runs between theriver and the railway.
Darmali1313A mud built villageon the Nile; the usual road now branches southwards, crosses therailway and than a bare, gravelly, waterless plain to Khor El Hudi.(If preferred, the Atbara can be followed by continuing along theNile to Atbara Station, which is about 7 miles from Darmali.)
Khor El Hudi1730
Khor Abadar or Abu Adar838From El Hudi, where the remains of theAnglo-Egyptian zeriba are still visible, the road skirts the riverwhich is fringed with dom palms and other bush to Khor Abadar, nearthe junction of which there is a small stone wall enclosure and theremains of another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.
Khor El Hilg (Rest House)1957From here the road cuts off an angle fromthe river and lies across open gravelly desert till Khor El Hilg isreached.
(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s zeribaand the battle of the Atbara, is passed at the 12th mile, about 5miles to the west.) There is dense bush about here, and the groundis likely to be swampy in the rains.
Sheikh El Sebib’s House (RestHouse).3½60½The house stands onslightly rising ground. After passing this the country continues tobe broken by small khors until after passing Gemmeiza, a goodhalting place, but much bush hereabouts.
Gemmeiza (Rest House)1272½
The country soon becomes open and level,and is covered with scattered selem and sunt bushes. The river isgenerally nowhere more than a mile and half to the west.
El Hagar14½87Here there are rocks in the riverbed.
Khor El Fil188The going continuesexcellent until reaching Khor Adarama which is about 1½ miles inwidth and is marked by very thick scrub of sunt, talh, and tundub,as well as by the badly cracked cotton soil indicative of standingwater.
Khor Adarama896
Adarama (Rest House)1½97½Adarama consists of a large number of mudwalled enclosures, scattered over about ¾ of a square mile ofground. These are almost entirely deserted and mostly ruined. Withthe exception of the inspector’s house, camel corps lines, and afew tukls, there are practically no inhabited houses. In the dryweather there are two water pools in the vicinity, one at the footof Khor Adarama, and another about ¾ mile higher up. The approachto the river is easy, but the bank shelves steeply to the river bedfrom a height of about 25 feet.
El Hejera1½99A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s ispassed.
Um Bashim2101The name of this district. After passingthrough two patches of bush about a mile apart, the country becomesopen and sandy, and sand ridges appear to the east.
El Siwan8109Here the river may be approached, andfurther on the track passes within a few yards of the riverbank.
Shellalab (Rest House nearhere).10½119½Shellalab, a sandyhill covered with marakh bushes. From here the track continues tothe river bank, through scattered marakh bush, and sand hills lieaway to the east. The river can be approached almost anywhere, andthe path is never more than about ½ a mile from it. Jebel Ayob isvisible about 7 miles due east.
Gala Amarus——
Meshra Baluk or Um Beiba (RestHouse).21½141
From here the path traverses scatteredbush, and in places badly cracked cotton soil, indicating theexistence of water in the rains, and gradually ascends an easyslope on to the plateau, and thus cuts off a bend in theriver.
Debba Gulal13154Debba Gulal.
Meshra7161The descent from the plateau begins 3miles further on, and the river is struck at a good meshra.
Meshra Mitateb (RestHouse).3164The path continuing near the river,Mitateb, the first meshra in the Hadendoa country, is reached. TheBisharin country on right bank ends here, as also the BerberProvince; the Province of Kassala is now entered. Rest househere.
From here the path gradually ascends agentle slope to the plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik and Erembatsoon become visible. Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr trees arenoticeable, of these samr predominate as Goz Regeb isapproached.
Goz Regeb (Rest House)15179Two miles beforereaching old telegraph hut the road descends from the plateau, andthe river is reached at this hut, which forms a good halting place.The village of Goz Regeb is situated on a slight eminence close tothe river on the left bank, and is marked by a few dom palms. SomeGovernment buildings are now in course of construction on the rightbank, the idea being that Goz Regeb should form a sanatorium forKassala during the rains. The direct track to Kassala and that ingeneral use leaves J. Erembat to the north, and strikes straightacross the levelplain. At about 38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in the bed of abranch of the Gash, about 3 miles off the direct road. It has beenlately opened up, and has a good supply of water, and Arabs wereliving here (March, 1902). There is little shade to be had on thisroad until after passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet and other greentrees and bushes become numerous. On nearing the Gash, signs ofcultivation appear.
Bir Teishum (Rest House)38217
Khor Ebret20237
Khor Gash5242
Tukruf1¾243¾Many wells in bed of Gash; unlimitedsupply of water.
Kassala2¾246½Destination.
Another Route may be taken from GOZ REGEB viâASUBRI to KASSALA.
Goz Regeb179179The track ascends to the plateau andfollows the edge of it, leaving the river several miles to thewest. There are several meshras, all of which, however, are almostimpossible to find without a guide.
Meshra Um Bereika30209This meshra is somewhere abouthalf-way.
Asubri35244Good meshra and shade.
Goz El Handal8½252½About 5 miles after leaving the river forKassala, the road from Suweihil joins in, and rather thick laot andkittr bush is traversed till reaching Goz El Handal, an opengravelly plain with short grass extending for about 2 miles Fromhere to Umsiteiba there is little bush.
Umsiteiba13265½A place where water stands in the rains;not much shade.
Khor Garatet3268½Rather swampy and difficult for camels inthe rains.
Khor Um Dahan6274½Water stands in this khor in the rains.It is about 6 yards wide and 3 feet deep.
Khor Kunti6280½There are Arab settlements near here inthe rains for cultivation. After passing through some rather thicklaot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, about 8 yards wide and 6 feetdeep, is crossed.
Khor Gash4¼284¾Many marakh and kurmet bushes until theGash is reached.
Kassala¾285½

4.—SUAKIN to TOKAR.

By Lieutenant A. M. Taggart, 1st Bombay Lancers, July, 1896; Captain McKerrell, Cameron Highlanders, December, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——For the first 25 miles the track is welldefined, and leads over hard ground never more than a mile or twofrom the sea shore. During the next 6 miles it changes incharacter, and for the last 25 miles leads through bushes and oversandhills, the tracks varying according to the season and thedifficulties (drifting sand, &c.) to be encountered. There isno water to be had on the way. A telegraph line leads direct fromSuakin to Tokar, but does not always follow the best road.
Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. direction, thetrack is broad and distinct, passing over hard, sandy ground, witha few bushes 1 to 3 feet high.
Khor Gwob7½7½Crosses broad Khor Gwob.
310½Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, approachessea shore, then bears away again. Near this point (4 hours fromSuakin) there are reported to have been some wells in 1885; water 6feet down and brackish, hardly ever used.
212Saw some trees due east, halfway to thesea; said to be wells of Helub. Water bitter, and butlittle used.
315Track meets telegraph line.
2½17½Over rising ground. Extensive view in alldirections to the westward, well-defined khor trending north-west.Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet high, ground hard and sandy, overlying coral.Track descends again; then level ground.
Khor Asab7½25Reached Khor Asab, which runs in from thehills to the west; it is called half-way to Tokar. Here a trackbranches off to the left, and leads to Teb.
631Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes narrowand indistinct. Bush thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.
Surface shifting sand, with claypatches.
839Crosses several small khors, sometimestraces of water here. Bush very thick.
Khor Tamai241Small pool of rainwater (at certainseasons only).
Mamuria445Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud house.Telegraph line crossed three times since the 31st mile. Bushbecomes thicker.
Old Tokar550Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground andthick bush.
Abdulla Rai252Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed tower,with pointed roof), on an eminence, visible from some distance.Nine wells here, water good—never known to fail, 54 feet down(July). Large herds of camels and goats in the district. Thick bushall round.
Track now due south-east to Tokar,surface hard and clayey, covered in places with drifted sand; bush3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal tower visible.
355Leave the bush, across level mud plainto
Tokar156Tokar, vide [Part I, Chap. III.]

5.—TRINKITAT to TOKAR, viâ TEB.

By Captain Bower, I.S.C., and Editor, July, 1896.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Trinkitat——The whole road from Trinkitat to Tokar ispassable for all arms, and it is only when approaching Tokar thatthe scrub about the country becomes thick enough to interfere withthe action of cavalry.
For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the road runsalong a broad embankment, on which for 1 mile an 18-inch gaugerailway has been laid down. After leaving the embankment there is asandy stretch, and then about 2 miles of narrow embankment justbroad enough for the railway line. This embankment in places hasrather a serpentine course, and would have to be straightenedbefore rails could be laid down.
El Teb77At El Teb there is a small fort, and anample supply of water at a depth of 17 feet.
Three wells inside fort and numerous onesoutside, these latter mostly for animals.
The water in the different wells variesin quality, but is all slightly brackish. No ill effects, however,appear to attend drinking it, and the men quartered there spokefavourably of it.
The parapet of the fort is a brick wall10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep.Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet high. Scene of battle of El Teb,29th February, 1884, just north of present fort.
There are two roads from Teb to Tokar,both broad (30-50 yards) clearings through the bush. The “new” roadis the straightest, but leads over soft sandhills and is rarelyused. The other road bears gradually westwards a mile south of Teb,and cannot be missed if the traveller keeps on the west edge of theclearing. Excellent going for all arms. Bush on either side 3 to 10feet high.
Abdulla Rai815Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla RaiFort, ½ mile west of track.
Tokar2½17½Tokar.

6.—(α) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ TAMANEB and KHOR ARAB.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate thetrack leads S.W. up the plain reaching the granite outcrops of thefoot hills. Over broken, but easy ground to Tamaneb, where there isrunning water.
Tamaneb818The track passes W.of Tamaneb and ascends the flat valley bottom of Khor Gwob to 22miles, where the junction with the Khor Nagit is reached. Leavingthe route to Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the track turns S.W. upKhor Nagit till 27 miles, and then crosses a short rocky agaba intoKhor Manab. Descending this easy valley, at 29½ miles the junctionwith Khor Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge the track ascends thehillside about 150 feet by a different rock path descending intothe valley at 30½ miles. Up the valley, easy going, for about amile pass running water (brackish and unpleasant), thenascend by steep zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 at worst), after ½mile along the steep hillside cross the valley and rise by a steeppath to the saddle separating Khor Arab from the Khor Dahand.Descend into the latter by a rocky path and, after ascending withdifficulty the rocky torrent bed for another ½ mile, reach the footof the Agatba agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of ¾ mile brings oneto the summit, after which the route crosses easy rises and dips toErkowit at mile 39.
Erkowit2139
Good hill camels lightly laden took 11marching hours from Erkowit to Suakin by this route, and would takeabout 14 hours to ascend. The track is not fit for horses or fullyladen mules.

(β) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ KOLKALAI PASS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Track leaves SuakinS.S.W. over the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor Gwob, a wide openwadi with low banks and thick bush. This Khor is occasionallyimpassable when in flood. About mile 16 the road reaches thegranite outcrops of the foothills, and descends into a wadi atTaharoi (mile 17), where there are usually several wells muchresorted to for watering flocks. This year only one well and thatalmost dry. Depth to water usually 10 feet.
Taharoi1717
Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, leavingJ. Gumberit to E. At mile 20 usually a well, but dry this year.Then S.W. into the Khor Dahand at 25 miles; track enters the hillsand goes for 3 miles up the easy valley. At mile 28 there iswater in the hill to S. and several Hadendoa tukls.
Track then takes to hillside, rising byzigzags up the end of a spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 to theridge, then very steeply 1 in 3 to another col, by short zigzagsand rocky steps; very bad for pack animals, but good hill camelsget up with light loads. Track descends along hillside for about 1mile; all green, with shrubs, grass and ferns. Francolin, partridgeand quail plentiful. Some bad places in descent, then easy path,and again short difficult rise to the edge of the Erkowitplateau.
Total ascent from Khor Dahand a littleover 2,000 feet.
Camels took 3 hours. The track is not fitto ride over.
Erkowit1734After about ¾ mile Erkowit isreached.
Leaving this route at mile 20 a trackleads up Khor Masilli, S. of Dahand; the bad ascent on this isshorter, but equally bad, and the whole distance is longer.

7.—(α) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ BARAMIL PLAINS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Erkowit——South over easyground to head of Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of the khor W.N.W.Leaving the khor the track rises for ¼ mile over a stony slope,reaching the Baramil Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For 14 milesthe track runs W.N.W. over the firm surface of the plains. Largeherds of ariel are seen, a few flocks and nomad Arabs, but nowater. Down stony and occasionally narrow khor N.W. to Towai Wells,which are at side of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair andplentiful.
Towai Wells18¾18¾
Sinkat2¾21½Down Khor Towai over a low stony rise anddescend W.N.W.; wide khor until it joins the open Sinkat Valley andreaches the well and ruins of the old Fort at 21½ miles.

(β) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ KHOR GEBET.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Erkowit——Route descends the valley W.S.W. fromErkowit by rocky surface track over ridges and dips, rising after2½ miles by a stony ascent to the edge of Baramil plateau. Thislength is the worst part of the route, it is practicable, but notgood for loaded camels, and is easily capable of improvement byunskilled labour.
Gebet Well14¼14¼Along Baramilplateau, W. for about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over gentle ascent, andcross an easy but stony agaba, and descent N. down a khor leadingto the open valley of Gebet. No obstacle. Gentle descent N.W. tothe well at 14¼ miles. Water good; large flocks and herds; one well30 feet deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. 3 miles, where route isjoined by the direct track from Suakin to Sinkat, viâ theSinkat agaba, then W. 1 mile to a short stony agaba leading intothe Khor Abu Shid, the main valley of which is reached at mile 20.Thence easy going over a wide wadi to Sinkat at mile 23.
Sinkat8¾23

8.—KASSALA to SUAKIN, viâ FILIK, MAMAN, and KHOR SITARAB.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford, April, 1899.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. directionis taken over flat, sandy ground, intersected by small khorsrunning into the Khor El Gash; many low trees of the acacia tribeand the green-leafed kurmet bush, but passage among them easy inany direction.
Khor Debeloeid5½5½A shallow khor, flowing from S.S.W. toN.N.E. two miles on; this khor is recrossed, flowing westward; herethe trees are thicker and taller.
Khor Gamam3½9A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 feetdeep, 15 to 20 yards wide; proceeding down the khor for ½ mile thewells are reached. Banks thickly fringed with high tamarisks; bushvery close.
Bir Gamam½9½Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 feetdiameter; water plentiful. Many wells exist now in this khor forabout 2 miles N. from this point. After winding about in the bushfor a mile, country again becomes open; many open spaceshalf-a-mile to a mile in breadth. Direction N. A good deal ofcultivation here.
Gamam5½15Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; itssite now marked by a stony mound to the E. known as Habuba. A mileon one passes many skulls and human bones scattered all over theground for some distance. This spot was the scene of the firstencounter of the Kassala garrison and the Dervishes in the winterof 1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a large standing camp ofHadendoa at the same place. Arabs say “20,000 young men” werecollected there and guarded by Baggara horsemen, who, when foodfailed, refused to let them leave; so many hundreds died ofstarvation.
Hageror924The name of the district. At this point,1 mile W. of our route, is the site of the old telegraphmaintenance post of the old Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, close toa branch of the Khor El Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say water can befound 10 to 15 feet below the surface anywhere in this khor;fringed with high trees. Direction now is E.N.E.; country asbefore, but cotton soil.
Khor Bahr Shamil3½27½A shallow depression, 200 to 300 yardsbroad, no defined banks, thickly grown over by laot trees.
Khor Delai330½Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, flowingW. High trees along banks. At the 33rd mile the trees disappear;country is cotton soil with tussocks of grass, full of holes andbreaks away at every step. Very bad going for men and animals. Asthe Khor Herbub is approached, grass, 3 feet high, becomesthicker.
Khor Herbub10¾41¼A branch of the Gash, 20 feet broad, 20feet deep. Proceed due W. for 1¼ miles through high trees.
Bir Tokar1¼42½One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feetdiameter, 1 foot of water at bottom of well. After drawing 400gallons supply was exhausted and water came in very slowly. Watergood. Good grazing for horses and camels, and plenty of shade.Retracing one’s steps back across the Khor Herbub, a direction 72°(true) was taken and followed as far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soiland tussocks of grass as before.
Filik2½45Formerly the largest and most importantcollection of hamlets of the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no traces,with the exception of three charred dom palm trees, which supportedthe roof of the old telegraph maintenance post. Many wells, andwater plentiful in Khor Tokar ½ mile W.
Going very bad; at the 49th mile belts oflaot trees are passed through. At the 53rd mile surface of groundimproves; more sandy, with patches of small stones or pebbles.
J. Tisheiga1156One mile to right. Ground now descendsgently; several small khors are crossed, running westward; trees inkhors and along banks, kittr and samr. Ground sandy, withoccasional patches of stones; excellent going.
Khor Yelkuk561Also called Telkuk. One hundred yardsbroad, flowing westwards. Ten miles up this khor are wells and anArab settlement. Many trees; good grazing for camels. Two miles tothe north are low black hills called J. Kadabu. Country asbefore.
Khor Taugon5½66½One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feethigh. One well here not yet reopened, in bed of khor; high treesand dom palms in bed and along banks. Two and half miles E. is J.Taugon. General direction 62°.
Khor Shamfeid2½69A small khor running into Khor Maman.Same direction being followed, J. Maman with its four peaksstraight ahead. Ground rises gently and then descends towards theKhor Maman; with stones in places.
Khor Maman675One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feethigh; many high trees and doms; excellent grazing for camels.Crossing the khor and following up its right bank for 1½ miles thewells are reached. Under J. Maman are seen many hundreds of stonehuts, which, according to the Arabs, were built many centuries ago;also many large stone graves.
Bir Maman1½76½Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet diameter,water good and plentiful at all seasons.
On leaving the wells, the track, veryfaint, over stony ground, made by the party constructing the newtelegraph line, was followed for the next 40 miles. The telegraphline itself is within sight of the track on one side or the other.Track proceeds up khor for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. corner ofJ. Maman, and turns due N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab on theE. form a pass, 1½ to 2 miles broad; ground sandy, with patches ofstones; flat, good going; several small khors are crossed.
Khor Hashaneid682½One hundred yards broad, 3 feet banks.Dom palms and trees.
Khor Tudab284½
Khor Fagada286½
Khor Toteb187½Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. Runsinto the Khor Kudameieb. Dom palms, kittr, samr, and the thornlesskurmet trees. One and a half miles E. is J. Yaied, some 1,500 feethigh, and 6 to 7 miles long, a mass of black basaltic rock, steeplyescarped on its western side.
For the next 12 miles, ground traversedis hard sand, sloping from hills on the E., and covered withstones; very bad going; in the small watercourses (during rains)are belts of samr and kittr trees.
Khor Gedamaieb4½92Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Trees; 2miles on, a similar khor is crossed, bearing the same name.
At 96½ miles the top of a watershed isreached, and J. Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. Bakutneb is some 3or 4 miles to the N.
Khor Abuladein7½99½Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Groundnow sandy, and more trees.
Khor Serera4103½One hundred yards broad, 6 feet banks.Dom palms. Runs into the Khor Abu Ledein.
Khor Togul3¼106¾Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. Followthe khor 1 mile down stream.
Bir Ali Kalai1107¾One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inchesdiameter; water good, but supply only 300 gallons at date, andrefilled very slowly. Khor Weidab joins Khor Togul from the S.lower down.
Returning up the khor 1 mile, a N.E.direction is taken. Ground very stony and undulating, andintersected by several large khors. Trees in watercourses and alongbanks of khor. The track runs more or less parallel with J. Kureib,4 or 5 miles distant to the E.; a range some 8 miles long, 2,300feet (approximate) above the general level, very precipitous onwestern side; black basaltic rocks.
Watershed9¼117Up to this point all khors crossed runinto the Khor El Gash; northwards of this watershed, khors run intothe Khor Langeb.
Khor Arideib4121The direction of the new telegraph lineis left 3 miles before reaching this khor. Direction N.N.W. Lowground sandy, with trees and grass; high ground stony androcky.
Khor Kei-Eiteb5126
Khor Gambeleib1½127½The downward course of this khor,trending W. and S.W., is now followed for 4½ miles; severalsubsidiary khors join it from either side. Water could probably befound anywhere here, as trees are finer and creepers are festoonedalong the trees; many kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; goodgrazing for camels.
Bir Hamashaueb4132Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 feetdeep, 3 feet diameter; water good and plentiful.
Returning up the khor for 2 miles towhere Khor Gambeleib joins Khor Homashaueb, the upward course ofthe latter khor is followed for 2 miles, and then a N.N.E.direction taken. Ground very stony and rising; intersected by smallkhors running from hills to the east.
Khor Omli12144No defined banks; its course marked bythe trees.
Khor Yaskalab4148Also called Khor Kubri. One well here 45feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water good, but supply uncertain; it isgenerally dry at this time of the year.
Khor Hedaweb5153Similar to KhorGambeleib. One and half miles down the khor is Bir Hedaweb. Onewell 9 feet deep, 3 feet 6 inches diameter; water good andplentiful; there is said to be a better well 1 to 2 miles furtherdown the khor.
Bir Hadaueb1154
On the south side of the khor, close tothe well, are the remains of the old telegraph line maintenancepost.
Returning up the khor ½ mile, a branchkhor coming in from the N. is followed up past a large graveyard.At the 156th mile this khor is left, and the neck between two rockyhills is crossed. Going very bad; rough and stony.
Khor Belag6½160½Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet banks.Excellent grazing for camels in this khor. For 7 miles its downwardcourse is followed. Arabs say that it flows into Khor Windi, but at167½ miles the khor appears dammed up with sand dunes 8 to 10 feethigh, and its level is the same as that of the surroundingcountry.
Khor Hegadab8¼168¾Flows towards the E. Ground ascends, anda mile on a stony pass between the hills is reached. J. Adarababnow comes in sight, noticeable from several chimney-like rockswhich stand up above the general level of the top of the range. Ashort descent, then a sandy plain with patches of stones inplaces.
Khor Windi4172¾This khor is entered, and its down-streamcourse followed for the next 8 miles. No water now obtainable inthis khor; trees are more stunted, and their leaves more yellow anddried up than in the preceding khors. At 177½ miles is the site ofthe old telegraph maintenance post and well, now filled in manyyears ago.
At 180 miles the khor is left, and aplain traversed, alternately sandy with tufts of grass and stony;several narrow deep khors are crossed. At 188¼ miles the level ofthe country suddenly drops some 20 feet.
Tamarisk bushes and trees commence.
Khor Langeb19¼192One hundred and fifty to three hundredyards broad, banks 15 to 20 feet high. Banks on either side thicklyfringed with tamarisk trees; excellent grazing for camels. Arabsare restarting breeding camels in the vicinity of this khor; onedrove of nearly 300 young camels were seen. One day S.W. up thiskhor, Khor Odeib is said to enter it; all the khors alreadyenumerated, from Khor Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run into KhorOdeib. Half a day to the E. Khor Windi joins it.
Bir Tamashnauer1½193½One and a quarter miles up this khor isthe well; 25 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful, but verysmelly and brackish. Arabs state that at present there are no wellsopen further up the khor; lower down are more wells and a fewpools.
Returning ¾ mile down the khor, adirection N. by E. is taken; several small tributary khors arecrossed, and then ground ascends gently and becomes stony.
The next 45 miles is known as the WadiOssir. J. Adarabab and Shaba on the E., and a series of ranges ofhills on the W. form the sides, 8 to 10 miles apart. These hillsform a funnel through which the wind blows steadily during thewinter months; sand storms very frequent.
J. Karamriba4½198Two black stony hills, 200 feet high; ½mile to W.
Eilogwa3201In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 miles fromthe track, are said to be rock cisterns with water; supplysaid to last from rains to rains.
Khor Ossir5206Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor Langeb.
El Fogani2½208½The same khor is recrossed, flowing S.E.Good grazing along and in this khor.
Direction N.N.E. Ground still risinggently; sandy, with tamarisks bushes and samr trees, very stunted,4 to 5 feet high. Some marakh and araag trees. Occasional belts ofstony ground.
Watershed16224½Top of the watershed is reached; ½ mileto W. is a low stony mound, 50 feet. Ground now falls from J. Shabarange towards the western hills.
Khor Shenkerat5229½Three to four miles to E.; in the hillsare said to be rock cisterns. The old telegraphmaintenance post is under the hills. Ground now becomes very stony,falling towards the W. and N.; in the shallow depression betweenthe flat spurs are Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on ground becomesmore sandy, and samr, marakh, and some laurel-like bushes arepassed through, becoming thicker as the khor is approached.
Khor Ossir El Tahtani9238½Fifty to one hundred yards broad, 5 feetbanks; flows N.E. The range of hills on the E. now terminates. Asandy plain is now crossed; scattered samr, etc.
J. Meiz5243½A low conical hill is passed close to thetrack to the E. 3 to 4 miles to the W. in the range of hills Arabspoint out J. Maiz, where water is said to beplentiful.
For 2 miles stony ground, then sandyagain; track passes through several groups of low detached hills.At 254½ miles ground becomes more cut up with khors, and graduallyascends and becomes very stony; the last mile into Khor Siterab isa stony defile; going very bad and in single file. A sharp ascentinto the khor.
Khor Sitarab16½260A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; boundedby hills 40 to 60 feet high on either side. In the bed of the khorare great blocks of granite, through the interstices of whichpercolates water, which collects in the clay bed of the khor andforms small pools at close intervals all down the khor, averaging15 to 20 feet long, 2 to 4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. Watervery brackish, osher bushes, a few tamarisks, shush grass and reedsgrow in the bed of the khor.
From the khor a well defined track runsall the way to Suakin. For 4 miles ground is very stony and broken;few sammur trees.
Khor Alifeyeit4264Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet banks,sandy bed. Ground now becomes sandy, and trees thicker; samr,araag, heglig, labakh and tundub trees. Gow grass during and afterrains; good sheep grazing ground.
Khors Sedayat, Ashat, Erim,and Shadat5269These four khors areall crossed in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; trees and bush in bedand alongside the khors. A few miles eastwards these khors open outinto the plain. For the next 3½ miles ground is stony.
1½270½
Khor Issi or Issei1½272Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks.
Khor Sarobai2274No defined tracks; sandy; trees andbush.
Khor Wintri4¼278¼A point of crossing; this khor hascommenced to divide up into branches.
Four miles on J. Gumberit is passed 1mile to the W. Country more open; eastward a clear view down to thesea.
Khor Gwob10¾289One hundred to twohundred broad, shallow, no defined banks. Ground descends gently,and on reaching the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the town of Suakin comesin sight. Trees become fewer and bushes lower.
Suakin8297

9.—TOKAR to KASSALA, viâ KHOR BARAKA.

(Various.)

Grazing.Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route.

Water.Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.

Camping ground.Good anywhere along the route.

Wood.Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters.

Going.On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin.

Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.

N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (vide note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Tokar——Leaving Tokar, the track runs a littlewest of south across the plains, leaving the Khor Baraka channel tothe west.
1010Traversing a broken tract, covered witheminences strewn with sand, enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation onmuch larger scale; tall tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards broad;hard sand; excellent going; banks 10 to 12 feet high, and thicklywooded.
There are more routes than one; sometimesalong the channel, or on either bank, according to season orcircumstances. Broadly, the Beni Amer inhabit the eastern bank, andthe Hadendoa the western.
Temeren212(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells here, twoin number, are situated in the bed of the Khor Baraka, depth about20 feet, and produce plenty of water of a brackish nature. Anotheraccount (1897) says two wells, close to fort; one well only used,good water 50 feet down. The khor here is about 80 paces wide, withlow banks, and is comparatively bare of trees. During the floods ofthe Baraka, these wells are flushed, the water being thick andimpregnated with alluvial mud. The country on the left bank is openand stony, and remains so until the line of the Jebel Shaba hillsis reached. To the right bank of the khor a certain amount ofcultivation exists, which increases in amount as the Tokar delta isreached. Heina range visible to south.
Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. ofTemeren; track to it clearly marked over stony plain by occasionalstone heaps. Contains grass, ravines, shrubs, and numerouspools of water (July); one large deep pool at foot of hillcontaining water all year round. Good look-out post in alldirections.
The route, after leaving Temeren, bearsfor a mile or so south-east to avoid the numerous sand dunes anddrifts lying close to the right bank of the khor, and then changessouthwards.
214A belt of considerable bush is now passedthrough, after which the country becomes open, rough, and sandy;the khor about ½ a-mile to the right-hand side.
Well115One well; good water.
The route continues in a generallysoutherly direction, passing through sand dunes, covered with aconsiderable growth of tamarisk bushes sufficiently high to conceala mounted man.
116Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on the westbank; route enters the Baraka.
Here large khor also runs in from theeast, main channel now from 30 to 40 yards wide, banks varying to30 feet high. Natives say the whole of this bit of country for amile west, and to Jebel Haina east, is under water in the rainyseason. Tamarisk bushes line each side, nothing can be seen fromthe channel.
Seven miles on, track leaves the khor,runs west on a sandy plain for a mile. Eleven miles on a black hill150 feet high runs from west bank half across the khor.
Lower Debetawateb723The hill of Hainaruns down to top of channel on east side; a narrow gorge is thusmade, through which the rush of water at flood is very great. Whenit is a very high flood, a channel is also formed round the westside of the hill. Just beyond this there are some old disused wellsin the channel that were known as Lower Debetawateb. After this,the khor opens out to about 800 yards wide, sand dunes and scrubeverywhere, track winds round almost due west, and reaches UpperDebetawateb, where there are two wells, plenty of good water, closeto surface. Track leaves channel here and runs ½ mile through thickjungle on to east bank, and then winds round south over sandyplain. Five miles on, guide pointed due west to
Upper Debetawateb3½26½
Odwan531½Odwan, lying in the khor, one well. Eightmiles on, hills of Shaba and Heina run down to banks of channel,track leads east of some low hills, and khor is seen winding west agood deal.
Tefadi536½Some large sand hillsin khor, guide said this was Tefadi. No well, but water easily gotby digging. Track now leads over bad ground broken up bywatercourses, sand dunes, &c., and re-enters channel 4 mileson, then leaves it and runs on to west bank, winding graduallysouth-west into Khor Farag Salem. (Laiameib.)
Laiameib6½43
Farag Saleib346Here there are 12 or more pools of water,rather salt. This khor runs south-east into Khor Baraka, and whereit meets it, there is a small stone enclosure on a hill held byArabs under Sheikh Abu Fatma, called Langeb. There is one well invalley at foot of hill.
From Khor Farag Salem is seen Jebel AdaAbab, about 10 miles to the south-west. The track runs from thiskhor south-east, then south-west over rocky ground, skirting theKhor Baraka, of which the east bank is lined with hills.
Khor Langeb[8]551Five miles on trackenters channel, and 100 yards further Khor Langeb[8]runs in from the west, about 25 yards wide, and described assimilar to Khor Baraka. Directly afterwards the track leaves khorand proceeds for 8 miles over stony ground on west bank, and thenfor 11 miles over alternate rocky and sandy plains, directionsouth, then re-enters khor and passes pool of dirty water, andafter heavy going in the channel reaches two pools with anyquantity of clear sweet water, called Tebhateit.
Tebhateit2374
[Other accounts of theroad from Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as follows:—
1022At 10 miles from Temeren a large numberof sandhills are reached, covered with a good deal of scrub andtamarisk trees. These sandhills proceed from the neighbourhood ofthe khor towards the Jebel Heina; they are not of any height, butwould form admirable concealment for horse and foot men. Afterpassing through the sandhills, the route re-enters the khor, beingthe first point the khor is touched since Temeren. The khor here isabout 50 paces wide, with a firm sandy bottom, fringed by scrub,though not of a dense character.
There is also a track along the west bankof the Khor Baraka from Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), but itis bad, leading through thick bush and wood, and much broken bynumerous small khors.
Debetawateb325Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet deep,situated close to west bank of khor. Wells mostly together, waterbrackish (April). The wells are placed in what practically is agorge. The left bank rises in a rocky hill from 150 to 200 feethigh, and gradually falls away into a wide open stony plain, which,with occasional rocky isolated hills, extends to the high mountainof Jebel Shaba. On the right bank the hills are higher, formed intonumerous peaks, the hills gradually losing themselves in the JebelHaina. The rush of water down this gorge is very considerable whenthe Baraka is in flood; it is said to be of such force as to sweepa camel with ease before it. The hills of this gorge would form afair position; though, perhaps, capable of being turned by thewest. Such dense scrub approaches to within a few yards of the south side of the hill onthe left bank that it would enable an enemy on the hill to defendhimself from this bush with reasonable prospects of success, andmake it a difficult operation to touch the top of the ridge of thehills without carrying the bush. This gorge would seem to be thebest place to put a barrage, should such a work ever becontemplated. After leaving the wells the route follows the khor,which now opens out very considerably. The west bank is coveredwith dense bush, mostly tamarisk trees; the east bank has aconsiderable amount of bush, but the belt is not so broad or sohigh as that on the opposite bank.
227After about ¾ hour is reached a largepatch of dura crop planted in the bed of the khor, dense bushcontinuing on the left bank; after ½ hour, reach a few water holeson the right side of the khor, evidently used for the cultivationof the above-mentioned dura. After passing the cultivation the khormaintains the same general appearance.
From here a short cut may be made toTamatu by leaving the khor, and marching over a scrubby plain,going rough, and cut up by small khors and hills.
The path now leads by the right bank ofthe khor, and clear of it; the ground here is much cut up byravines and watercourses, covered with dense bush, in fact might bedescribed as a regular jungle. After passing this rough ground thekhor is again struck at
Odwan (meaning greatwaterpot).431The khor here is in a channel 16 to 18feet deep; the channel bifurcates, the old bed passing in awesterly direction, the new cutting for itself a passage in a morenortherly direction. Pools here before the Baraka floods, runningwater in winter. No definite wells. On 16th July, 1894, the khorhere was a rapid stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and 4 feetdeep.
Khor takes sharp bend to the west. Bushon either bank very dense; tamarisks and bushes bound together withbright green creepers.
Tamatu (or Tefadi?)637Fifty wells near west (?) bank of khor, 5feet deep; water brackish.
Route now goes along bed of khor, goodgoing, muddy soil with patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high anddensely wooded. Four miles (?) on, the khor is left, and an openplain to the west crossed, covered with scattered scrub, groundgenerally stony. Spurs of Shaba range extend to within half mile ofkhor.
Laiameib845Lies a mile to the west of the KhorBaraka, and is reached by proceeding up a stony tributary khor withoccasional trees, a few dom palms marking the entrance to the khor.This point is called Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 to 100 feethigh. The wells lie at the foot of a mass of irregular rocks, whichstop further advance.
The reservoir of rain water is situatedunder the rocks, and is reached by a narrow downward passage whichfinally opens into a subterranean cave. The entrance to the cave issufficiently high and wide to admit the passage of two horses atthe same time. The water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of excellentquality and most delicious to drink, covering about 15 feet square,and taking up the greater part of the cave.
Khor Farag Saleib348Three miles south of the Khor Laiameib,the Khor Farag Saleib is crossed. Here the Baraka forms a lake inflood time.
Langeb351The entrance to the khor of that name,which trends south-west from here.
Tebhateit1263Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel Haggr,6,000 feet.
(From this point CaptainMcKerrell is the authority.)
After Tebhateit (74 miles) the track nowruns on to east bank, and winds gradually south over broken rockyground; 5 miles on re-enters khor, and runs through dense mass oftamarisk and scrub into channel 100 yards wide here, and khor ½ to¾ mile wide.
Ambakta882Shortly afterwards reach Khor Ambakta,with one well. This is where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets theBaraka on the east bank. Jebel Senad, to the west, is a goodlandmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on east. Channel now twists about agood deal, then runs south-west; both banks lined with hills.
Hakhal890Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, 6 feetdown, good water.
Adardeb999Track continues south-west and entersEritrean territory, and 9 miles on reaches Adardeb, with threewells, 4 feet down; good water. Three miles on channel splits upand runs east and west; track leads over ground between. Very badgoing over ground broken up by watercourses and sand dunes for next6 miles; channel is then re-entered and Khor Salha is reached.
Khor Salha10109Five wells, 4 feetdown, good water. This is a large khor running in from the east,and is itself joined by Khor Anseba, about 10 miles east, whichlatter khor comes from south-east. From here Jebel Adarkalab, avery high hill, is seen due south, and Jebel Skena due west, acone-shaped hill. Track leaves channel here and runs along eastbank, passing, 3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, built byDervishes. Bad going over very broken ground, intersected bywatercourses, for next 8 miles; then re-enters channel and reachesfour wells, water 4 feet down, and some small rain pools, from oneof which two fish were caught. One hundred yards on is Jebel Sotaion west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, bank; latter swarming withgrey monkeys. These hills are about 60 yards apart, and the rush ofwater between them at flood must be very great.
Khor Anseba——
Jebel Sotai9118
Akiduli (Koliteb?)4122Four miles on is ablack rock, called “Akiduli,” on east bank, with figures of camels,men, and ostriches scratched over it. Water here also in pools andold wells, in places only 2 feet down. Further on is Khor Attai,with wells; water good, and 4 feet down.
Khor Attai2124
Kolik18142Track now runs south, and hills recede oneither side; khor widening to about a mile east and west; channel100 yards, and shallow, lined with thick tamarisk and bush.Thirteen miles on passed several wells, old and new, and later khorcontracts and hills run down on either flank; reach Kolik.
Khor Tamaguanti6148Jebel Koreb is seen here, a landmark tothe west. There is water. Then track leaves khor and crosses weston to a wide, fairly open, sandy plain. Long range of black hillson east, running with khor, country west much more open and hillsfar away. Six miles on, cross Khor Tamaguanti, running south-west,which is lined with dom palms, has an old well with good water, anda few inhabitants. Track continues over plain passing “Mala” ofSheikh Abu Tahir, who was head of the Hadendoa tribe in MohammedAli’s time. Here there are between 200 and 300 graves; plain iscovered with coarse grass and acacia.
Khor Lokweb11159Track now leaves KhorBaraka and enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor running into the Barakafrom the south-west; channel, lined with any number of dom palms,100 yards wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. Two good wells here,water 5 feet down; track continues in khor, direction south-west,for 2 miles and comes to two new wells, water 6 feet down. Thenleaves khor to avoid heavy sand, and runs parallel to it on westbank, but here also going is bad, over very broken ground coveredwith bush. Eight miles on track runs over rocky ground, two hillsappear on both flanks. Sixteen miles on passes old stone house onhill to left and shortly after re-enters Khor Lokweb at spot calledKhashm El Kawab, where there were two wells, water 3 feet down,slightly salt. Track now runs south-west and then for 8 miles west.Channel blocked by large stone boulders after first mile, bad goingthrough deep sand, dom palms on both banks, also saw two witheredTebeldis with edible fruit like an elongated pear. Six miles onreached three wells called Khashm Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khorand marched west over plain, covered with acacia, &c. Thenre-entered khor and reached three at Khashm Ribdab, goodwater.
Khashm El Kawab19178
Khashm Hodelt6184
Khashm Ribdab6190
No water for the next 28 miles.
Jebel Irkit-Anob8198Track leaves KhorLokweb now, which runs west, and enters Khor Ribdab. Channel 50 to100 yards wide, with low banks covered with bush, hard sandybottom, excellent going, direction due south. Sighted here, duesouth, curious grey hill, with top sticking up like a chimney,called Jebel Irkit Anob, a good land mark. Natives said no one hadever been able to climb to its top. Three miles on reached plain, where the oldMamuria stood. Five miles on passed close to the above-mentionedhill, leaving it on our left. Track shortly afterwards leaves khorand runs west over plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. Ninemiles on reached hill called Tiniki, with a single thorn tree onits east shoulder, moved round its east flank in single file intoplain beyond; direction west, bad going, and axes had to be used inplaces. Fifteen miles on sighted Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush-grown plain. Shortly after track passes between low hills on theright, called Shushaieb, and a large burying ground on left, called“Balad Ali Gabret,” and enters shortly after khor of that name,running south and west, with six wells of good water, 4 feet belowsurface. Plenty of shade. Jebel Sabderat is seen on leftfront.
Jebel Shushaieb16214
Khor Ali Gabret4218
Kassala18236Track now leaves khor and runs south-westover grassy park-like plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad goingin places. Seven miles on sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing it onour left, reached Kassala, 3 miles further on.

10.—KASSALA to MAMAN direct.

By Captain H. H. Morant, April, 1900.

General Remarks.The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country: good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water.

Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin N. of Maman, vide [Route 8.]

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——
Khor Girger (Wells)1919Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very littlewater in April, 1900.
Tendelai-i ( Wells)1231From here the trackcontinues N.N.E. by N., passing about midway between Jebels Roreband Shushaieb to the northern extremity of the latter, where thereare several wells in the khor called Tendelai-i. These wells hadalso very little water. From here the track continues in the samedirection, good going, country open and grassy, scattered bushexcept along khors, several of which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk,before reaching which Jebel Obillit is passed about 2 miles to thewest. There was said to be a well in the khor somewhere near thisjebel. From here to Maman, country very open; good hard going andshort grass. Three more khors are crossed, chief of which isTogan.
Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, orObillit2051
960
Maman565The wells in K. Maman. Many GemilabHadendoas here.

11.—ADARAMA to BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB).

By Captain Kenrick, 11th Hussars, September, 1901.

N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Adarama——Afterleaving Adarama the road goes E. for about 6 miles over sandy soilcovered with tufts of dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab is visibleto the S.E. Khor Amab is then crossed; this is always dry, I wastold; it comes from S.E., and runs a little way further to the N.Osman Digna is said to have had his extreme E. outpost of 20 menhere to levy blackmail on anyone coming to Berber. There are acaciabushes in this khor. Two miles after crossing the khor, the rangeJebel Tobrar comes into view. All bushes cease here, and for 4 or 5miles the way is over an undulating sandy country with tufts ofwithered grass. On descending a low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is metrunning S.W. and draining a black, light sandy plain running E. andW., along which the way proceeds for 6 miles; low sand hills to theS. The plain is treeless, except a few stunted bushes in KhorShedieb. After marching E. over this plain the sand hills begin toclose in at a place called El Yukreik, where there is a littleshade from a few small tundub bushes; this is said to be full ofwater and green grass in a rainy year, but it is quite dry now;this is about 20 miles distant from Adarama. The direction is theneastwards through a succession of valleys shut in by low sand hillsrunning N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 miles. One valley, just beforeentering the Hegerib Plain in which Bir Kerikun lies, is full ofbushes and is cotton soil, but not bad going; there must be a gooddeal of water all over this country in a good year, but it is quitedry now. There is no grass for horses the whole way; the going isgood, but a little heavy over the sand hills from one valley toanother, and also, except just when entering Wadi Hegerib, 3 milesbefore reaching Bir Kerikun.
Jebel Tobrar28
Khor Shedieb513
El Yukreik720
Bir Kerikun1535
¾35¾On leaving Bir Kerikun, marchN. about ¾ mile to get over the low sand hills, the way then goesE. and slightly N. The road winds a little when passing over thesand hills to get out of the valleys, which are exactly similar tothose about 12 miles before Kerikun, except that there are moreselem or samr bushes in them, which give a fair amount of shade.Just before entering Wadi Todabanob there is a valley which theArabs told me is capital grazing in a good year.
Khor Shanfaiet——KhorShanfaiet comes in at the S.W. corner of this valley. Largegraveyard of Shebodinab Arabs here. Going good; sand a little heavyacross the sand hills. No grass fit for horses. On entering WadiTodabanob the wells lie at the foot of a sand hill. They are about8 in number (though there are others quite filled up in other partsof the valley); three only of these are open, and two of these onlyhad water in them; they are unlined. They were:—
Todabanob13¼49
Depth to water14 feet.
Depth of water2½ feet (approx.).
Circumference3¼ feet.
I got about 3 camel fantassesfull out of them. I have now learnt from three sources that it was,as I suspected at the time, only rain water from the shower twonights before. They are now almost dry. Excellent shade inTodabanob from large sayal trees; no grass; must be swamp in a wetyear. No Arabs at all on the route. Wadi Todabanob runs N. and S.Khor Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about).
J. Sanai——Afterpassing eastwards over the sand hills leading out of WadiTodabanob, J. Sanai comes into view in the E., and J. Ararab toS.E.; after a switchback course of about 2½ miles over the sandhills the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, half of which is coveredwith withered Tabas grass, and a little green grass, tundub bushes,and Senna, the remaining half barren sand; this is crossed aftermarching 3 miles. On ascending a slight ridge the sand hills areleft, and Khor Derudeb comes into sight about 6 miles off, runningin a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol, in the E., is alsosighted. The ground just before coming to Khor Derudeb, as in thelow-lying parts of all these khors, is cotton soil, but the goingis not bad. About 12 miles from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb iscrossed at a point called El Garud, where there are rain pits;these cannot be relied on for water. The way now goes eastwards forabout 11 miles over a stony plain, but good going on tracks, pastJ. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. There was very little water when Icame here, but a violent storm came on in the night and broughtdown the khor; after such a storm there is plenty of water,sufficient, I think, to last for four or five months. There was onelarge pool of water, 40 yards long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feetdeep. Plenty of shade near the khor, and good grass on the banks.The plain just before Khor El Ashob is treeless; the going thewhole way is good.
J. Ararab——
Wadi Shakauni2½51½
J. Tebilol——
Khor Derudeb——
El Garud9½61
J. Tebilol——
Khor El Ashob10½71½
Jebel Wararaweb——The roadgoes eastwards through the pass of J. Wararaweb, but there areseveral miles (3) of cotton soil to pass first. The pass itself isvery stony, broken ground and bad going for about 3 of 4 moremiles. Then S.E. over a very stony plain for 10 miles to KhorGodamaieb; this plain is crossed by small khor, near which and inwhich there is always a little green grass and some shade. KhorGodamaieb was dry. The well Tisharam is on the west bank, and is avery good one, though unlined; its dimensions were:—
Khor Hambokeb
Khor Godamaieb——
Tisharam38½110
Depth to water9 feet.
Depth of water (good)5 feet.
Circumference7 feet.
I was told Osman Digna usuallywent viâ Khor El Ashob, Bir Delai and Khor Delai to KhorAraf. Plenty of dom palms on each bank, some coarse green grass;remains of a very large old well filled up.
Khor Angwatiri2½112½CrossKhor Godamaieb, about 50 yards wide, march N.E. over a road for themost part stony, except 2½ miles from Khor Godamaieb, where KhorAngwatiri is crossed; there is green grass in plenty, and someshade from thorn bushes. It was full of Gemilab Arabs and theirflocks, who water away to the E. in Khor Amboreb, where there aresome pools of water. After 5 miles further you enter the hills, andthere are 4 miles of very bad stony going in and out of small khorsin the midst of stony mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi,about 1 mile long, with dom palms on both banks; then Khor Arafcomes in from the N.W., and the way to Khor Langeb is up this khor,averaging 30 or 40 yards in width, thick dom trees on either bank,coarse green grass in places, but not in any great quantity. Themountains all through run down to the dom palms on the banks of theKhor Araf on each side; away in the distance are some very highstony peaks. A very few Gemilab were in the khor. The going on thewhole is very good in the khor, except in a few places where thesand is heavy. About 5 miles from junction of Khor Araf with KhorBarshoi was a pool of rain water near the left bank, about 15 yardslong, 4 yards broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool to be relied on isEl Getite, on left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 miles from junctionof Khor Araf and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir Tisharam; it israinwater and will last 4 months. It is close up to the rock wherethe hills run down into the khor. It is 209 yards long, 10 yardsbroad, and 10 or 12 feet deep. Muddy water, but quitewholesome.
Khor Amboreb7½120
Khor Barshoi4124
Khor Araf6130
El Getite11141
Umna Dunyin10151The roadthen goes on down Khor Araf with many twists and turns till thepool of rain-water called Umna Dunyin is reached, about 10miles from El Getite,but 15 yards long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or 5 feet deep in thecentre, will probably last 2 months more. After 2½ miles from UmnaDunyin, J. Hambolib is in sight, round which the khor twists forabout 3 miles, till the wells called J. Hamboliebare passed. They are filled up with sand, and only a person whoknew them well would know they had ever existed. However, I wastold there is water underneath; if so, a small fatigue party couldclean out the sand in a few hours. I think Khor Langeb joins KhorAraf just near here, running due E. here. Dom palms, tarfa jungle,and small quantity of green grass on the banks. Five miles up thiskhor, on left bank, is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small Khor Oshi; thesame remarks apply to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. Bir Gabati,slightly further on, I was told is the same. There is, I am told,water in Khor Odi, and a big pool at Areiwat, andno lack of water further on. On the right bank on entering KhorLangeb are some graves on a hill, said to be the graves of Romansoldiers; the Hadendoas are afraid of opening them, though theythink there is treasure there.
J. Hambolib2½153½
Bir Oshi4½158
Bir Oshi is distant about 48miles from Bir Tisharam, this is owing to the twists the khormakes, and one is not able to leave Khor Araf often on account ofthe hills coming down close to the banks of the khor and renderingthe ground impassable.

12.—EL GETITE (in KHOR ARAF) to ADARAMA, viâ BIR DELAI and TENDERA.

By Captain Kenrick, September, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Getite——Marchfrom El Getite to junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi(vide previous route report), then march for 2 miles N.W.up Khor Araf almost to its source; the khor narrows here and thepath is a little stony in places, then turn W. over a stony plainfor 2 miles, very fairly good going until the source of Khor ElAshob is reached. From this place may be sighted sources of KhorAraf and Khor Amboreb, which runs away apparently S.E. There wasplenty of grass and shade here. Leaving Khor El Ashob, which runsaway to the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. again to join KhorDerudeb, march S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles distant; road stony,but good going on sheep tracks, the stones are not very thick, noris it rocky. Cross several khors en route, Khor Beida isone of them; there is a little grass in all of these. On reachingKhor Delai, after going a few yards down the khor the well isreached in the centre of the khor, recently cleaned out by theArabs, but there are none here now. The well is lined withwood.
Khor Barshoi1717
Khor El Ashob421
Khor Delai7½28½
Khor Beida——
Bir Delai—28½
Depth to water 3½feet.
Depth of water (very clean)10 „
Circumference (approx.) 7 „
Goodcattle watering places round the well. Good shade. Some green grassin the khor.
533½Afterleaving Bir Delai, first march 5 miles along right bank of KhorDelai (looking towards mouth of khor), direction W., cross the khorat the point where it runs slightly N.W. to join Khor El Ashob,then 8 miles over stony, but very level plain, excellent going incattle tracks andsheep tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long,12 feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well filled up, 3 miles to N.W.;could be opened if necessary in khor under dom palm.
Pool El Ashob841½
Khor Derudeb546½LeaveKhor El Ashob, crossing to right bank (looking towards mouth),going in a westerly direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, cross thiskhor. A little cotton soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, goingotherwise good, over light, stony, sandy soil, but no shade exceptat the khors. Then N.W. 10 miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem,coming from N. of J. Torbraa range; going good, grass in Khor AbuSillem, also shade. N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor Breitak,there I found two pools of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. They werein the khor and were about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad and 1 footdeep. About 5 miles of some of the best grazing I have seen in thecountry. The Sheikh said the water had been there 2 months andwould only last 9 days more, another Arab I asked said a monthmore. The Sheikh also pointed out the road to the N. to BirTendera; both he and my guides said half a day’s journey,i.e., 13 miles, easy road, and it looked good what I sawof it. Very good shade here.
Khor Abu Sillem1056½
Khor Breitak662½
Bir Tendera1375½
Sekotieb2095½From Tendera, Adarama is 40miles (Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), road easy (there may be alittle cotton soil), some shade and grass at Bir Tendera, also someshade at Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) from Adarama. The well(Tendera) itself is large, always has water in it.
Adarama20115½This information, though Ihave seen the road as far as Khor Shedieb and corroborate it sofar, is hearsay, as I had not time to go there myself. Myinformants are my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa and the MulazimAwal, of Slavery Department at Adarama, all of whom have beenthere, and many Arabs re water.

Note.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.”

13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).

By Captain H. H. S. Morant.—March, 1900.

N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road, vide [Route 125,] Appendix.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Umbrega[9]——From here there is atolerably distinct track following the crest-line of the plateau,and the river is seen and approachable only occasionally, beingalways 1 to 4 miles on left. The descents to Meshras Abedo andGodema are passed, and then the burial ground and khor of TorabKaruf, further on the district of Sheikh Ageil and Meshra ElZuhani. From Sheikh Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both visible N.N.W.and S.S.W. respectively, latter being on boundary of Hamranstowards Abyssinia.
Abedo3¾3¾
Godema¾4½
K. Turab Karuf1¼5¾
Sheikh Ageil49¾
El Zuhani1½11¼
Gat Wad El Hag6½17¾Leaving this, thepath passes clearings of former cultivation, and after 3 miles ofthick bush, Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk is reached,and after following bed of river for ½ a mile, plateau is regained,and Gira is next Meshra. On left bank are cliffs, on which aresituated the ruins of the old Egyptian Fort. K. Lobetir and K. WadHeleiwa being crossed, village of latter name, which is the soleexisting one of Hamrans at present time, is reached. From hereSetit is crossed, and later R. Atbara and village of Sofi isreached.
El Hagar El Zuruk1¾19½
Gira10½30
K. Lobetir636
K. Wad Heleiwa238
Setit1¼39¼
Atbara7½46¾
Sofi¾47½Little game was seen between Umbrega andSofi.

[1]Camel transport.

[2]For further details regarding the water supply along this route vide “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola, &c.,” 1898.

[3]Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.

[4]“Black stone” in Hadendoa.

[5]Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.

[6]From Suakin.

[7]Now many.

[8]If it is not desired to march through Italian territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor Windi, and thence up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the eastern road is met.

[9]The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a point on the Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree, straight to the bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of the Khor Royan, which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11 miles above Umbrega.

CHAPTER IV.

(EASTERN SUDAN.)

14.—KHARTOUM NORTH to KASSALA, viâ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, and EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (January, 1900) with additions by Captains Boulnois (March, 1900) and Morant (January, 1901).

General Description.

Road.At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a day after heavy rain.

There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.

Rivers.The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south.

The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during the flood season which lasts during July, August and September.

Supplies.A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached.

Water.As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter.

The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was found to be roughly 250 feet.

There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells visited had an ample supply.

Inhabitants.The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban.

A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara.

Grazing.There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days.

The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.

Cultivation.An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable.

Game.There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum North——Starting E. from theArtillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck,which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where itbends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads toSheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villagesof Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 milesthe village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some lowmounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said tobe the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch tothe left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few milesthe path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually getthicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any directionto 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right ofthe road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scatteredbut well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which allvegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500yards.
Old Soba1919
Um Dibban827
It was formed by a holy man named SheikhEl Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. Hisdescendants still live there and keep up the school, but they nowhave hankerings after temporal power.
The Sheikh El Obeid family and followerswere early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was inattempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forceswere cut to pieces in 1884.
There are two wells about 112 feet deep,one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner ofvillage.
The inhabitants belong to various tribes;many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to theE.
Wad Badrub (Wad Agid)4¼31¼The road starts slightly N. of E., andgenerally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enoughreally to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging hereand there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, andagain after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.
The track maintains a general directionof a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes forshort distances.
Wad Hedeibab7¾39Well.
Um Sideira746Well.
450A dry tank in the Elwan district ispassed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to theS.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is nowoccupied by the Batahin.
The country soon becomes more open and aconsiderable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura,cultivated by the Batahin was passed.
El Ereigib555There are some wells (which were out ofrepair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with waterabout 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.
A small number of Mesellemia Arabs,Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria,but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.
Another rather shorter route is fromKhartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well,thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of ElMelaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January,1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles),salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½miles.
Wadi Sereria6½6½The country soon becomes more open,several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in goodpreservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mileto the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water inthe neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare oftrees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ milessome Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. iscrossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close athand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna toRufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.
El Giseima[10]4½66A tank about 100 feet in diameter onrather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water init, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera isreached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines ofWadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank;firewood should be provided for.
Wadi Abu Sueid470The absence of treesenables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soiland covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass.At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come fromAbu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid andthe lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, butnone was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 milesfurther on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends shortslope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.
Astaneit676
Khor Dengalia480From here on toGeili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main trackprobably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80thmile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half milefurther on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ milesfurther on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best placeto halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallenboulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has anancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest thehill.
Wadi Nail484
Wadi Ankia½84½
Geili690½
J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. andS. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which thewells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirtywells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet,yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but nofirewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even therenailed boots must be taken off.
From the summit a good view is obtained.Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb ofthe “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, whomarried Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.
From Geili there are two roads to UmRueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour.It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. ElDaein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundredfeddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The groundis much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.
J. El Daein22112½Two small hills of which the southern isthe higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamlatook 8 hours, going well.
Um Ukheita14½127The track now turns slightly S. of E. andcontinues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tanknow dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here onto Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and thegoing very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen tothe S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving onthe right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ milesthe track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to thewell of Um Rueishid.
The more direct road, which would appearto be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grasscovered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood,to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901),where there is excellent shade for a small party. From here to UmRueishid (20 miles), track traverses similar country, though it isoccasionally stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to the S. of thetrack.
Um Rueishid8¼135¼This well is said to be 30 or 35 feetdeep. It is situated on bare stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ mileto the S. There are a few small thorn bushes S. of well, but thereis very little shade and little grazing, and it is altogetherrather an unpleasant halting place.
From Um Rueishid there is a track viâ ElSofeiya and Dimiat to Asubri. It seems the most direct linepossible, vide description below.
The route followed after about 1 mile of stonyplain strikes a well marked track on good cultivable soil, andmakes straight for J. Rera.
At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi Jerrabaflowing S., and 6 miles W. Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. Kananflowing N. All are flat depressions with cracked soil and marked bylines of “kittr” bushes. Parts of their courses are cultivated. At18 miles, track enters ground strewn with quartz pebbles, andcovered with grass which continues as far as Rera.
Rera22¼157½Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills consist ofthree rocky ridges almost in line, running E. and W. and some lowsubsidiary elevation; S. of the centre ridge is a well and a drywater hole. Immediately to the S. of the W. end of the eastern andhighest ridge are more wells now in use. On the N. side of theshort and low pass that leads to these wells from the N. is a deepdry tank. Before the Mahdia immense flocks and herds used to waterhere. In the eastern and highest ridge are several rock tankscontaining water.
From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat toAsubri. It is more direct and better marked than the one followed,but was not taken as the rock tanks at Dimiat were said to be dry(January, 1900). The eastern ridge is not difficult to ascend andcommands a good view. The natives say J. Kassala can be seen fromit on a fine day during the rains. Variation of prismatic compassabout 3½° W.
There is no marked track for the first 5miles towards El Sadda, and the going is bad over pebbles andthrough long grass.
After that a well marked track isreached, which continues the rest of the way.
Wadi Atiam7154½At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is passedflowing N. It goes to El Sofeiya, and as far again beyond it diesaway. Much cultivation along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the road israther bad and stony till it has passed the Atash hills by a shortand easy gap, and enters an open plain which extends to ElSadda.
Several tanks are passed on the right,known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ hours.
El Sadda25½180There are several wells here about ½ mileW. of S. end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running N. and S. The onewell visited was said to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty of grass,but no trees nor firewood. On the N. and W. of the hill and closeto its foot are a number of circular stone mounds neatly built,which appear to be tumuli, and probably date from a time anteriorto the present inhabitants. The two biggest are immediately underthe highest point. From here to the Atbara there is no track and nowater. Bushes mark the drainage lines, otherwise the plains arebare of all but grass. Much of the ground is cracked andconsequently bad going. The route followed eventually struck thewell marked track made by the Dervishes from Dimiat, and kept alongit to Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri the main road along the leftbank of the Atbara is crossed. Soon after, the track descends intothe broken ground which fringes both banks of the Atbara to a widthof 2 or more miles. The actual banks at Asubri are 15 to 20 feethigh and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles are plentiful. The ford inJanuary, 1901 was 120 yards long and 2½ feet deep.
Asubri (R. Atbara)57237Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. A niceshady camp on right bank for a very small party. Mosquitos few, butparticularly poisonous.
Asubri is the name of a strip of landextending for some miles along both banks of the Atbara. On theleft bank, near the ford, is an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is abuilding formerly occupied by Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, theDervish Emir in command of their post here in 1897 and early in1898.
On leaving camp, the track winds in andout of khors and up gentle slopes through bushes, till at 2 or 3miles it emerges on to the plain, which is of good soil coveredwith scattered bush. The general direction is straight for J.Kassala.
At about 6 miles the track from Suweihiljoins in on the right, and from this on, the road is well marked.Many ariel and gazelle, and a few ostriches seen.
Um Siteiba21258At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly calledhalf way is passed. Here is a large natural pond for about 4 monthsin the rains, but now dry. Serut fly bad when there is waterhere.
About 6 miles from Kassala, the trackturns N.E. and traverses more thickly wooded country, till itreaches the bed of the Gash, now dry, some 700 yards wide,immediately beyond which lies the old town of Kassala.
Kassala17275The old name, Taka, may now be regardedas obsolete. The former town is a complete ruin, of which nothingremains except the circular bastions. The new town has been builtclose by the S.E. and consists largely of Tukls. The Fort, built bythe Italians, is just E. of the N. end of the old town.
Telegraph lines from Suakin, Massawa, andKhartoum viâ Gedaref meet here.
UM RUEISHIDviâ SOFEIYA to ASUBRI.
Khartoum, N.——
Um Rueishid—135¼From Um Rueishid where the ground is verystony, the track which is well defined, starts at a bearing of 112°from true N., and very soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed flowing N.,it is said to eventually unite with the Wadi Khasa.
Wadi Khasa7½142¾There are signs of a good deal ofcultivation along this wadi.
J. Um El Gurud1½144¼J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill about ¼mile long is passed about 1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further onSheikh
Sh. Naim’s Tomb1½145¾Naim’s tomb,conspicuous on top of a gentle slope, is passed on N. side of theroad. Open bushless grass country continued until nearing ElSofeiya, where scattered bush and granite rocks appear. There aresome forty wells here, though water supply decreases considerablyin the dry season, they vary from 50 to 100 feet in depth.
El Sofeiya9½155¼
15½170¾The people here, who are Shukria underSh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, live in tents made of matting; there areno permanent buildings of any sort, and the encampments are smalland scattered. The direct road to Kassala, which is difficult totrace for the first mile or so after leaving the wells, soonbecomes well defined, having been much used during the Mahdia, andleads over open flat grassy land from J. Gurun, which it leavesabout 2½ miles to the S. Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan (11½miles) being crossed en route, flowing N.
Wadi Giref6½177¼J. Giref is passed about 3 miles N. oftrack and Wadi Giref is crossed about a mile further on.
From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 miles,Wadi Girgoja being crossed at about half way.
J. Dimiat15192¼A granite hill about 100 feet high. Thereis a natural tank about half way up, inaccessible for camels, whichafter a good rainy season contains water till the end of January,but is not to be relied on. There is a certain amount of laot busharound the base of the Jebel, which serves as firewood, and somedetached boulders give shade for a small party.
Ogba El Bagar18210¼From here to the Atbara valley about 33miles there is no bush, with the exception of two thin belts calledOgba El Bagar about 5 miles apart.
7½217¾The road bifurcates, one to Gandaua, Sh.Omara Abu Sin’s village on the Atbara, the other is the Dervishtrack to Asubri. The route taken (January, 1901) was neither, butdirection lay for 3 miles S.E., and then due E. through scatteredbush to edge of plateau.
Edge of Plateau8½226¼From this point Jebels Kassala, AbuGamel, &c., are plainly visible. Also are several small hillssome 10 miles to the S. and S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar,whilst J. Leinun is visible a similar distance to the N.
Asubri2¼228½The road now descends a khor by easygradients to the bed of the Atbara at the well known Meshra ofAsubri.

15.—GOZ REGEB to SHENDI viâ ABU DELEIG.

By Captain W. A. Boulnois, April, 1900.

General Remarks. Road.From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.

The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.

The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times.

From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in the rains.

The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.

Supplies.A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in small quantities.

A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.

Wood.Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere.

Water.None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles.

Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.

Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.

Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.

Inhabitants.From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and Hassania.

Grazing.Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi.

Cultivation.Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable.

Game.Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Atbara——Descending the bank by the hut on the E.bank the Atbara is crossed and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S.
Elsewhere the banks are steep, but thebush is not very dense. Track leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined brickbuildings of the old Egyptian town are still standing, and amongstthem the decayed tukls of Osman Digna. A very few inhabitants,descendants of the ancient town of Goz are living there still. Thesite is on high ground, and light sandy soil, a few dom palms, andthe remains of an old garden and cemetery are still visible.
Goz Regeb11Counting from huts onthe E. bank, the distance to the town is 1 mile. The directiontaken, about 260° from the true north, leaves the town of Goz Regebon the N., and passes from sandy undulating ground to level richsoil with very little grass and trees, getting scarcer through ElUera district, leaving the two hills of El Darei on the north side;at about 9 miles the direction taken leads straight to Bewadda.Under the hills of El Darei are bushes and grass.
Bewadda15½16½
Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat 162°,Erembat 81°, Takallaareid 343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in themiddle of a bare tract.
At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile long,quite low, stands 1 mile to the N.; hence the ground is perfectlybare till about 50 miles. Wadis coming from south begin to empty onthe plain, then the going becomes bad in places, especially in thecracked soil near the Wadis. Grass gets more plentiful.
At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed, andshortly after Wadi El Doleb and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown aboutthese wadis.
J. Ikhbeit3652½Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°.
The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed at 59miles; there are bushes and firewood in it. Four miles further onthe ground becomes stony after crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and risesgentle slope of stony ridge.
Shag El Walia13½66Shag El Walia isreached after crossing a second ridge. It is generally calledsimply Shag, no connection with Sheikh. Four wells in use out of14; 120 feet deep, water constant; 200 camels could be watereddaily. A badly defined track leads over a valley with rich soilacross Wadi Baseyayi, then gently up another stony ridge andplateau down to Geleita where are 7 wells in use altogether, about120 feet deep, water constant. There are several wells unopened. Agood many flocks and inhabitants.
Geleita14½80½
Isna Bir17½98Leaving the main group of wells, a trackis followed down bed of khor to the foot of the ridge in N.W.direction, fairly free from stones, past two wells at ¾ mile, andone well at 1¼ miles. The track disappears and rich soil andpasture land is crossed to Isna Bir, where there are 2 wells givinga scanty supply of water, and a few people (Batahin); a few patchesof corn were noticed on the way.
Abu Deleig25123Hence the direction taken is nearly W.,crossing a very fertile tract of country; many water tanks, nowdry, then over the rich land of Hawad, and rising a gentle slopetouches the Khor Girgegi, which waters the Hawad, about 1 mileshort of Abu Deleig.
Good shade all round. Large number ofwells.
2125The best place for asmall party is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi. A well defined track,starting N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads over good pasture landwith many mimosa trees and sandy soil to Ladda. A large tank hewnout of the rock in the middle of a grass plain. Plenty of water,1/4/00, diameter about 100 feet, depth in middle 5 feet, said tolast all the year. Many flocks; Ababda and Hassania tribes. Tomb ofAtali close to the tank. The track leads past several stony ridgesand sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors, notably Fehed, and is lostabout 7 miles from Shendi, which is reached descending a long verygradual slope from the high plateau at the foot of J. Girenat andNeheidat. Distance taken to Gubba Shendi.
Ladda20145
Shendi41186

16.—EL DAMER to FASHER (ATBARA).

By Major Bulkeley Johnson, Scots Greys, October, 1901.

General Remarks. Road.From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.

From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.

The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes from thorns.

Water.During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady.

On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair and shady.

Grasses.On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Damer——
El Basli1414Road across stony desert. Small village,150-200 inhabitants, about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. Dom fringe,½ mile broad; outside this, stony desert. Two roads—one throughdoms, the other outside—single track over stones.
From El Busli.
Outside road taken.
¾14¾Meshra Umdebia.
Amerab3¾18½Amerab village, ½mile from river; 50 grass tukls, two mud houses. Big house standingalone. Sheikh Omar.
220½
Minawi1¼21¾Meshra very good.
Goz El Halag425¾Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) a fewtukls. Road still 2 miles from river. Country changes. Soil becomesloamy, with some sand and scattered bush. River bank lined withdoms.
Girsi5¼31Village. Cultivation by sagias; bigmeshra 2 miles north. Road shortly goes through dura (rain crops),therefore patrol skirted outside this. Country as before; openbush, mostly tundub; no road.
Debbet Bush334Opposite to big village Debbet. Bush W.of outer road; about 2 miles from river. Water from 2 wells.
Burush438Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra.
Abaka341Ditto.
Helal748Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a fewtukls fairly close; bush mixed with doms, about 1 mile broad fromriver.
Shigil250Meshra. Cultivationon and near river. Meshra in a small pool, nearly dry (Oct. 16th).Island, ½ mile long; plenty of neghil grass. Village of Shigil,about 20 tukls; ½ mile from river in bush.
151
Garada152Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles fromriver; narrow path through thickets.
Marzuga254Meshra.
559Bush ends. Road enters open sandy desertwhich stretches down to river, on banks of which fringe of doms,½-1 mile wide.
El Rimta3½62½Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road closeto river. Road runs along river bank through doms and cultivationfor ½ mile, then open sandy desert with sunt and tundub right downto bank; sand hills.
El Awadi3½66Meshra (very good). Good shade for camp.Heavy going for guns. No road.
1076Good meshra. No signs ofcultivation.
Adarama480Meshra opposite Adarama.
383Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of bush,about 1 mile broad, along river; outside this, open flat desertwith a few tundub bushes. Road at times 2 miles from river, acrossbends, and approaches it at mile 97.
1497Meshra, very good (rocky bed);shady camp. Fringe of bush impenetrable (except at meshras) alongbank, about 10 yards broad. This continues for a long distance.Road close to river.
Amiam10107Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, ¼ milebroad; no inhabitants; going, sandy and bad.
Taroma6113Meshra. Bisharin tuklvillage; about 30 people; flocks; cultivation of dukhn on sandybanks. Meshra, good; dukhn on sandy banks. No signs ofinhabitants.
4117
11128No meshra, but able to get down to riverby group of doms; sandy banks, not much grass (halfa). Road goesaway from river to cut off bend.
5½133½Road divides: right hand to Goz Regebdirect, left keeping near river. Followed left; going becomesworse, with small khors when near river.
Auli2½136Arab encampment. Meshra.
6142Very good meshra; open space onbank. Fine view of river part of Auli. No grass.
2144Meshra. Arab encampment; dukhn,plenty of halfa grass. End of Bisharin tribe.
3147Arab encampment. Arteiga branch ofHadendioa. Great quantities of sheep, cattle and camels.
G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on east, justvisible from here.
Succession of small meshras andencampments.
4151Meshra.
2153Meshra.
1154Cemetery; stony ground.
3157Path debouches into open alluvial plain(short grass and tundub bushes) cutting off bend.
5162Approach river, near which country isbroken and stony. Meshra bad; no grass except a little aburokba (slightly bitter taste when green, and of which some horseswill not eat at first until accustomed). Flocks and cattle. Roadfrom 148th mile close to river, over very rough, broken, stonyground, and at times thick bush. Several small meshras. Goz Regeb’stwo hills visible for first time.
Saraf6168Arab encampment; meshra.
Goz Regeb12180Meshra—1 mile short of it—under palms.Camp (bad), 2 miles further on, at ferry. Camel post opposite;grass, halfa.
This road makes Goz Regeb 100 miles fromAdarama.
From Goz Regeb the road proceeds at about3 miles from river on a flat table land, as the ground between itand the river is rocky and broken by innumerable small watercourses and khors called by natives “karrab.” The going is overalluvial soil, rather heavy. A single track with naal grass oneither side.
Distances are given exclusive of detoursdown to meshras.
Gebuib18198Meshra, very good. Good camping ground;halfa grass. No inhabitants.
10208To meshra, about 3 miles.
6214Ditto.
Umraho4218Ditto. Very good meshra; deep khors oneither side. Bend in river to east; ford (27th Oct. 1901). Countrynear meshra very broken and rough. On turning down this meshra thetops of two small hills are visible on right front. From here roadabout 3 miles from river; going gets harder when nearingAsubri.
8226In line between the two hills and Kassalahill.
10236To meshra.
Omara1237Small village, about ½ mile E. ofroad.
3240To meshra, good. E. 3 miles toriver. Fair camp; abu rokba, but no halfa grass.
3243To Asubri. The road here divides at rightangles: left to Asubri, right direct to El Fasher, described asabout 30 miles and track far from river. Therefore took riverroad—very bad.
Asubri3246Asubri. From here road goes about 1 milefrom river and becomes very good and hard. Country open with treesand short grass. After 10 miles becomes “Karrab” (ground broken bysmall water courses) again.
12258A meshra. Hundreds of camels,thousands of sheep and goats belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Goodmeshra. Bad camp; no grass.
13271El Fasher District. Country changes topark-like land—short grass dotted with trees.
El Fasher2273El Fasher village and fort. Water fromford.
Ford4277Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ mile“karrab”; Abu Rokba grass.

17.—KHARTOUM NORTH to ABU DELEIG.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum, North——Railway terminus,&c. The road leads nearly due east, viâ tomb and wellof Haj Yusef (Batahin), about 80 feet deep, water good but notplentiful, to Bir Babekr, about 110 feet deep, water good andplentiful. Scattered salam and tundab bush. InhabitantsBatahin.
Bir Haj Yusef4½4½
Bir Babekr4½9
After leaving Babekr the road traversesbare level ground covered with scattered samr and selem trees.Hafir Medeisis, where Hassania Arabs live and extract salt duringthe rainy season, is passed, and later Hafir El Wadi, near which is a low stony hillnamed El Gaber. Near Kalamon are hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun,where also salt is extracted by the Hassania.
Bir Kalamon817Well 180 feet deep,water rather salt, but very plentiful. From here the direct roadpasses Hafir El Kheila, the country is flat and covered withscattered samr trees and homra and meharib grass. The road leads toa stony hill named J. Dura, after which the following tanks arepassed: Jan Kilwa, Um Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis, over whichthe road passes; beyond this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania Arabscultivate.
J. Dura1229
Wad Hassuna3059A village of mud houses and well of thisname; also the tomb of Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near which is alarge hafir called Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania, under SheikhHassan Meki. Country continues flat, and covered here and therewith kitr and samr trees, also homra and meharib grass; road isstony and several khors cross it.
Hafir Kabarus4½63½After Hafir Kabarus, three others by nameEl Biyut are past.
Hafir Amria770½A very large tank, J. El Sada, is passedto the south.
Bir Agab8½79Two wells, about 90 feet deep, water goodand plentiful. Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and Ababda Arabs liveabout here. Several hafirs here, chief of which are Alatib andBalako. The latter lies 1½ miles south of the road, and is said tohave been dug by the “Kufr” or heathen.
Khor Jegjegi——After leaving Agabthe road soon runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which it continues tofollow to Abu Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and samr trees borderthe khor, which some 8 to 10 miles further east joins Wadi Hawad.There are about 50 wells in the Abu Deleig district, 70 to 100 feetdeep, but in the rainy season water can be obtained from KhorJegjegi near the surface. At Abu Deleig all the natives live indom-mat tents, and here is the residence of Sheikh Mohammed Talha,head Sheikh of the Batahin, who are the principal inhabitants.There is a police officer and police post here.
Abu Deleig1089

18.—RUFAA to GEILI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, January, 1903.

There are at least three roads.

The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except in autumn.

The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.

The middle one was followed, and is described below.

No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about.

Place.Hours.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.Inter-mediate.Total.
Rufaa————Track is good all the way; no steepgradients, difficult khors, nor thick bush. Probably bad afterrain.
Tunbul El Jaalin441212Good sized village of Jaalin, with well.There are two other villages close by called Tunbul El Agada andTunbul El Eishab. Cultivation all the way; many villages seen.
Abu Zeid, Wad Um Balli37921A poor village. Well 250 yards S.E.;village of Musaiab close by to N. Track continues mostly throughthin low laot bush, but some cultivation is passed. Some villageslie on right, but are not conspicuous. Passes village of UmHageir.
Um Shinshin, or Um Shinashin2¾9¾829Thin straggling village; well, on road;last water on road. On through low laot and grass, with very littlecultivation, passing the small village of El Gura; no well; lastvillage on road.
Um Ganatir——534Tank, a boundary point of Rufaa District,used to be a man’s depth, but now nearly filled up.
Mufad Wad Dereid——741Tank.
4½14¼142Road crosses a belt of laot giving goodfirewood; no more for two hours, though there are belts of kittr amile or two on each side. Geili just visible 29½° (true). JebelLebaitor just visible in early morning to S. On over grassy plain,apparently rising. Direction of road some degrees E. of Geili.
Wadi Mofad2¼16½6½48½Marked by a belt of thin kittr some 250yards wide. Must be boggy after rain. Two tanks on each side ofwadi. The place is called something like Rufa Wa Fagusa, Rufaapplying to one pair of tanks and Fagusa to the other, but I am notsure of the names, nor which applies to which.
The Wadi Mofad, I was assured, rises nearAbu Deleig, and flows S. The wadis of Bahogi and Ankia passed onthe Um Dibban—Geili road form part of it.
E. of the wadi the Tundub road joins in,and the united road makes straight for Jebel Geili.
2¼18¾6½55Road crosses a branch of Wadi Mofadcoming from the E. of Jebel Geili. Some kittr and other trees.Track begins to get stony, particularly as Jebel Geili isneared.
J. Geili2¼216½61½Wells at S. end of Jebel Geili close tothe carved rock.

19.—GEDAREF to KASSALA.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford (1899) and Captain H. H. Morant (1900).

The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is a rest house here.

J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, viâ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in.

From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that viâ Sofi.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref in aN.E. direction, passing down a valley between gardens, cultivationand high grass; several hamlets half a mile distant on either sideof road. A gentle ascent on N. side of valley to N.E. corner of alow flat hill called J. Buadra.
Khor Seraf El Buadra33This khor crosses the path near corner ofJ. Buadra. One well, upper portion stone faced; 24 feet deep, 5feet diameter, 4 feet of water. Two similar wells near track, one ½a mile, the other 1 mile further on. From this point track is a single camel path,winding among high grass or through bush; in places very stony.Ground on either flank cracked cotton soil.
25Top of pass is reached; the small hamletsof Um Shedra, Hissainad, and Turfur are seen in succession on theleft hand of the track.
2½7½A rise in the ground known as Gumerab isreached. On far side of it track descends sharply for 40 feet, overrocks and stones on to a plain. General direction E. by N. Somedukhn or dura patches; rest of the ground covered with high aadaand shush grass. 5 feet high.
4¼11¾A copse of talh trees is passed through.For the next 5 miles are scattered trees along the path, withcopses of hashab trees a few hundred yards to a mile on eitherside; shush, aada, naal and Umdenaib grasses.
4¾16½A shallow excavation to catch rain-wateris seen on left, 100 yards off. General direction E.N.E. At the24th and 27th miles, two more small rain-water reservoirs arepassed.
Khor Bitnasr15½32This khor is here crossed; it trendsnorthwards and runs into the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascendsslightly and is more broken, and track crosses several small khors.At the 34th mile the edge of the plateau is reached, and a sharpdescent of 90 feet ensues.
Sofi (Rest house)335A straggling village of a hundred men(Jaalin) on spurs running down to the Atbara 400 yards away. Atdate the river is easily fordable, the water not being knee deepand 20 yards broad near the village. From this point the track asfar as El Fasher follows the course of the river on the left bank,and distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The bush and jungle preventapproach from the track, except at the watering places in use. FromSofi the track winds up to the plateau in a N.W. direction alongand in khors. On reaching this plateau, after a mile, the trackbears generally due N. Quarter of a mile of dura cultivation ispassed through, then the path runs along the flat top of awatershed draining into the Atbara on the right, and into the KhorTomat on the left.
One and a half miles E. of the Atbara theSetit runs parallel with the river and the khor until its junctionwith the former. Going is now very bad, kittr, laot, talh and santclose to the path; cracked cotton soil. At the 43rd mile the trackdescends with twists and turns towards the river, and just beforereaching Khor Tomat some salt workings are passed through.
Khor Tomat (Rest house)9½44½The khor near its junction with the riveris 30 yards wide and 4 feet deep. It takes its name from a moundnear the khor with two knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly there wereseveral hamlets in the neighbourhood, but no traces exist.[11]The nearest hillet to the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just N. of thekhor. Easy access to water at date. Track winds over undulatingground intersected by khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 miles distantto the westward. Trees not quite so thick or close.
Khor Um Garra448½The Atbara is again reached here, about 1mile N. of its junction with the Setit, which brings down at thistime of the year more water than the Atbara, and appears to be abroader and finer stream.
Good watering place.
The path leaves the river in a N.W.direction over broken and undulating ground for 1 mile. The plateauis reached and again thick bush and trees are passed through. At 55miles J. Akelai is visible through a break in the trees, nearly dueE.
Khor Fatut11½60Track winds down to this khor, and thenfor 1½ miles passes over very broken ground. Track then improves;the country is not so closely wooded, and several open spaces aretraversed.
Mogatta (Rest house)1070No village; grazing and watering place ofthe nomad Arabs. The river is 12 miles from the track. Severallarge islands in the Atbara here, the water in the dry seasonpassing down by the left bank. Lions are plentiful here.
Here the direct road from Gedaref comesin. From this point the road improves considerably. Troops can moveon a broader front, and the soil, though still cotton, is not so cracked;the earth has a slightly red tinge. Occasionally belts of bush aretraversed. At the 92nd mile the track descends, and the groundbecomes very broken. The remains of an old Dervish post on a spurare seen 400 yards to right.
M. Khashm El Girba23½93½Track here meets the river; a tributary,or branch of the Atbara, comes in here on the opposite bank, withwater still in it. Broken country is again traversed, and manyknolls and khors are passed until the plateau is again reached.Trees are larger, and ground covered with gau grass, excellent forgrazing cattle and sheep.
Dervish earth work396½A square Dervish earthwork, each sideabout 80 yards long, is passed on right. This was the site of ElFasher village when it existed.
El Fasher ford (Rest house)4100½At date, river was 50 yards broad, 18inches deep at the most at the ford.
Bottom of bed consists of shingle.Quarter of a mile up stream on the right bank is the site of thepost held by a detachment from the Kassala garrison in 1898.
On leaving the ford, track leads up theascent to the plateau for 2 miles, and passes over very brokencountry intersected by khors. Then the path is excellent; largeopen spaces are divided by belts of trees. J. Kassala bearsE.N.E.
El Mellawiya22122½An open (now) grassy space, whererain-water collects and stands from July to October. Serut fliesbad at that season, also snakes. Attempts to make a well here haveso far been abortive.
Old well5127½An old government well is passed onright, now filled in. Country now becomes closer, and trees withbright green leaves become more numerous; track narrowsconsiderably[12] as the Khor El Gash is reached, though movementis possible between the trees on either flank. At the 135th mile,the minaret of the Khatmia is visible to the right, and soon thefactory chimney of Kassala is visible to the front.
Khor El Gash12½140The left bank of this khor is reached;600 to 700 yards broad.
Kassala½140½Old town and Egyptian fort, now inruins.

20.—GEDAREF to GALLABAT.

By Col. Collinson and Captain H. H. Morant, 1898.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——From Gedaref the roadusually taken leads in a S.E. direction, and passes through muchcultivation to wells situated in a khor midway between the villagesof Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here the road continues to passthrough rain cultivation, which extends on both sides of the roadsmore or less continuously almost as far as the eye can reach until6 or 7 miles from Shasheina, after which only occasional patchesare seen.
Wells2¼2¼
Shasheina (Rest house)14¾17Several groups of tukls belonging toDebania and Takruris on western slope of a low ridge. Two goodwells with any amount of good water, roughly 30 to 40 feetdown.
724Leaving here the track skirts the bottomof the ridge and leads in a southerly direction over stony, badgoing for about 2 miles, when it bends to S.E. and passes over anopen plain to the E.; on the W. forest begins. The wells of Amzuaniand Galaat Eila are passed 2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of thetrack.
J. Doka is now visible right ahead.
The path here enters forest whichcontinues to Doka. The soil black cracked cotton soil and the pathis occasionally stony. Hashab, soffar and talh are the trees thatpredominate.
Doka (Rest house)2145A very wretched village that has seenbetter days. It used to be the residence of a mudir or importantofficial in the old government days. The remains of his palace,&c., are still standing. Two wells, very indifferent supply;generally dry in the middle of the day a few months after therains.
There is a path from here to Abu Guludand Sofi, also to Nogara. On leaving Doka several hills are passed,the principal being J. Doka 2 miles to the E., and Ajerawi orKajerawi to the W. About 4 miles from Doka the route from Asarjoins in from the right. This road is very little used, and ishardly noticeable. The track here becomes stony for a mile orso.
Khor Kefaia853Khor Kefaia, running W.
Khor Kanin3½56½Khor Kanin, also running W.
Seraf Said (Rest house)1066½Several small villages and two wells inthe khor of this name which is the boundary between Gedaref andGallabat. Wells 30 to 40 feet deep; fair supply. From here a roadgoes W. to Durraba[13] near the Rahad, and there is a track,made by honey hunters, to the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 mileseastwards.
For the first 2 miles after leaving thewells a good deal of dura and dukhn cultivation is passed through,and then forest with some quite fine trees begins and continues towithin a mile of Gallabat.
Khor Kuneina (Rest house)1581½The hills of Ras ElFil, where this khor originates, are passed 2 miles on the right.Up to January water is obtainable slowly from holes about 3 feetdeep in its bed. Later these become dry. Fine ardeib tree. Thickforest, chiefly talh and heglig, continues to Khor Otruk, wherewater stands in a pool all the year round. There are also wellsnear, from which several small villages obtain their water.
Khor Otruk788½
The road now ascends an easy slope forabout 2 miles, and hills are passed to the right and left. From thetop of this ascent Gallabat is visible, and ½ mile before reachingit a small khor with running water is crossed.
Gallabat4½93Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet abovethe town which lies at foot of slope about 400 yards E. Water fromstream, which constitutes boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards E. offort.
[There is an alternative routeviâ Asar. This is however very little used. It was takenby the two companies of Soudanese troops who first occupiedGallabat in December, 1898. It had been previously used a good dealby Dervish fugitives to and from Gedaref. The water supply alongthe Doka road is now better and is sufficient, if troops march atnight, without carrying any great amount of water:—
Gedaref——A rather stony trackin places leads across open country covered with high grass anddura to Asar. This is a Debania village and residence of their headSheikh, Wad Zaid, and is situated at the S.W. end of a ridge 300feet high and 1½ miles long, running nearly N. and S. Here thereare two good wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s force of 3,000 to4,000 men besides women, &c., for more than three weeks. A roadleads from here to Beila, also to Shasheina.
Asar1010
Leaving Asar, several deserted villageswere passed, and after traversing undulating open country for 8miles, talh and soffar forest commences.
Khor Tagala1525Water in holes inrocks by the road side. It has the usual stagnant rain-water tasteand smell, but is said to last all the year round. Large baobabclose to water. The track continues through forest with occasionalopen spaces to Khor Ardeiba.
Khor Ardeiba1540
A large khor running W. between hills.Water is found in several places in the rock on the side of thehill on left bank of khor. The supply was very scanty at beginningof December, and is not to be relied on.
J. Kajerawi1050For the first 3 or 4 miles after leavingthe bed of the khor the track ascends and descends several shortsteep slopes; trees interfere with the path, which is somewhatstony. It then crosses a fairly open cotton soil plain to astone-lined well about 60 feet deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi orAjerawi. As this well was not in regular use, the water tasted andsmelt, but there was plenty of it.
Four miles on the track joins in with themain road previously described, about 5 miles S. of Doka.]

21.—ABU HARAZ to GEDAREF.[14]

By Lieut.-Colonel B. R. Mitford, March, 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Abu Haraz——Half of a mile N. of junction of R. Rahadand Blue Nile. Track leads through the village in an E. direction,and 4 miles over a plain covered with grass 4 feet high afterrains; then some bush is entered which necessitates reducing frontof the column to file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ miles distant onright flank, its banks covered with a belt of jungle. Trackconsists of four to six camel tracks over cotton soil.
Meshra El Hedeiba88Half a mile before reaching this meshra,the road bends to the S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village of Hedeiba,and 2 to 3 miles N.E. is the village of Shegeila. A singleflat-topped samr tree marks nearest point for water. A large poolof water always here during the dry season in the river bed. Trackpasses over grassy plain covered with the usual grasses met withalong the road, viz.: aada grass, which grows in wet places as highas 18 feet, and naal, from 1½ to 3 feet high.
Id El Maya2½10½A descent of ½ mile brings one to thiskhor skirted with trees; the hamlet of that name lies 2 miles fromthe river; a meshra and pool here in the dry season. The hamlet ofAmara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same country is traversed, with occasionalbelt of trees.
Khor Abu Seghira5½16Track passes this khor 1½ miles from themeshra, which is very difficult to find, owing to the jungle andthe creepers festooned from tree to tree. No pool there this dryseason.
Khoran El Homr218The “Red Khor,” of which there are three.The second one is 1½ miles on, and the third 1 mile further on.Each khor is thickly fringed with trees, bush, and high grass,after rains. The track is now some 3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At23½ miles another khor is crossed, and the ground rises into astony plateau.
H. Sherif Yagub6½24½Track passes to E. of this village.Inhabitants are Ashraf.
M. El Egeiga½25Camping ground is on a bluff 40 feetabove bed of river; a pool of water always here in the dry season.Natives say that in the winter months it is not a good campingground, as it is very feverish at night. Country now becomes muchmore close, trees and bushes narrow the track in many places, andin the autumn the high grass obscures all view to front orflanks.
M. Abuet El Messih530This meshra is only 100 yards from thetrack, but the river is somewhat hidden by the jungle. Veryunhealthy camping ground during the autumn and winter. Trackcontinues through bush, with occasional open spaces.
M. El Esheir333Good camping ground near track, 500 yardsfrom the river. Just after leaving this place, the Arang range canbe seen in clear weather. Track as before.
Ein El Lueiga740Watering place here, on the Rahad, in thedry season; not a good camping ground during or after rains, therebeing much fever. The track now leaves the vicinity of the Rahad,and for the first 5 miles trends towards the N.E. corner of theArang hills. The Kassala Province is entered here.
At the 48th mile a depression is passed,where a little water is sometimes found during the rains. Plaincovered with grass 1 to 10 feet high in October, which from thatmonth becomes broken down by the wind, and in March is only 2 feethigh. Track twists and turns considerably until the hills arereached.
Galaat Arang1858The track strikes these hills about 4 or5 miles from its S. end; bush is again entered, and track becomesvery stony and covered with fallen boulders from the hills.
The hills are mostly rock, covered withlaot, and stunted baobab or tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, bustard,guinea fowl, sand grouse, apes, and baboons in these hills. A mileon two pools of water are formed in a shallow rocky depressionduring rains, which is only fit for camels. Track follows the footof the hills towards the N., through bush and over stonyground.
El Fau (Rest house)967Track passes through a gorge in thehills, wherein are the wells of El Fau, near the E. mouth of thegorge. One well, stone faced, 10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep;surface of water 1 foot from top in October, 10 feet in March. Theother, stone faced, 5 feet in diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. Water,both good. There are several other wells in the vicinity duringrains, and pools of water in holes and depressions.
Track runs along the E. foot of the hillsto the N. point; bushy and stony.
North End Arang572Near the N.W. point of the Arang hills isH. Badad, or H. Sheikh Shah El Din; one well, now filled up.General direction of track is now N.E. To the S. is seen J. Fines,or Fenis, and to the S.E. is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very close;cotton soil.
J. Bayuda880Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, low,conical hill; some water in rocky holes during the rains. Track nowruns E. by S., and for the next 8 miles through thick bush; countrythen becomes more open and covered with grass again.
Ummat Rumeila (Rest house)1999A group of some five or six hills,averaging 80 to 100 feet high. Some water in pools and holes duringrains. The track passes in a N.E. direction through the hills;several patches of bush are traversed. At the 110th mile a narrowbelt of laot trees, 10 yards broad, commences to run alongside orin the middle of the track; this belt follows the road for 13miles.
Taras Wad El Fahl (Rest house)20119A small depression, wherein water liesduring rains. Two thorn bushes to S. of track mark it.
Khor Abu Hashim7126A descent leads to this very shallowkhor, and a similar rise takes place on its E. side. J. Tiwawa nowbecomes visible to the E. Track runs over a grassy plain with noteven a shrub on it.
Khor Abu Faraga11137Or Abu Fura. This khor rises nearGedaref, and at this point the track meets it; it here turns S. Thetrack runs parallel with it for a mile, 2 to 400 yards distant. Atthe 139th mile ground falls gently.
Um Gulgia3140A stony mound on left of the trackcontaining several deep holes, said to contain enough water for1,000 men and 500 camels during the rains.
Ground still falls gently, and a mile ona small khor is crossed; then ground ascends through smallscattered soffar trees. At the 143rd mile the houses of Gedaref arevisible. Track passes several hamlets on either side, and throughmuch cultivation and high aada grass, along S. side of J.Tiwawa.
Gedaref6146On top of a long gentle slope.

22.—GEDAREF viâ HAWATA to ABU HARAZ.

By Major Bulkeley-Johnson, November, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——Road leaves Gedaref from behind the oldbarracks, and takes a S.W. direction for 6 miles. Scatteredcultivation of every kind. A flat basin like that N. ofGedaref.
J. Wad Sennat4½4½Small hill 100 feet high and 500 yardslong, running N.W. and S.E., with small hella S. slope.
Abu Nagar1½6Tukl village. ½ mile right of road; oneof Abu Nagar group of five villages.
½6½Ditto on left of road.
½7Well 30 feet deep; water always, but only6 feet deep; watered 80 horses in 30 minutes.
½7½Hella ½ mile right of road. Road bends toS.W. by W.
1½9Cultivation ends. Road bad from smallbushes hidden in naal grass.
J. Matni1726J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 feethigh; stony and covered with habil trees. Woods round J. Matni(soffar and habil) to the E.
From J. Matni to Beila by direct road 2miles are saved. After J. Matni road branches to right, straight toBeila; left to Ghanem or Ganam (meaning water holes).
Ghanem329Small khor and 12 water holes about 8feet deep, and water 1 foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); probably dry byend of month (1901), rain having been slightly under average.
231Joins main road nearly at rightangles.
15½46½Small hill ¼ mile off the road. Roadafterwards curls in between it and Beila to two small hellas on farside.
Beila[15]½47Two small villages and two splendid wellscut in solid rock; any amount of beautiful clear water all the yearround[15], 50 feet deep; revetted at top; very goodgrasses here. From Beila a road now goes to Mafaya on the Rahad,which is much shorter than going to Hawata.
El Fereikh552Thirty tukls; inhabited all the yearroad; now water from holes dry in March, 1902.
J. Arid557Four water holes 6 inches deep, nearlyempty on arrival; when opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet muddywater. Nov. 17th watered 80 horses three times; dry in March,1902.
J. Gerein——Water nearly finished; 30 tukls inhabitedall year round.[16] Later on get water from Rahad, which ishere about 60 yards wide and water 4 feet deep in Nov. Bankssteep.
Hawata1875Very good camp. Fairly large villagehere.
Road follows the river, never more than 2miles from it, cutting off small bends. Single track; good throughlong grass; bad for guns as wheels or teams are going through thegrass. River approachable everywhere, and watering possible at alltimes of year.
Camps exceedingly good under shade ofsunt trees 30-40 feet high. Grasses in abundance and good, neghil,abu rokba and abu arid.
From Hawata track proceeds along rightbank and enters bush.
Wad Keriam2½77½Part of Hawata belonging to Abu Bakr;small hills; clearing and cultivation.
½78Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.
Bush and grass alternately; thick bush,inland kittr and talh.
886Grass plain. Bend of river meeting itagain at
Wad Kerein591Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, as doesall the country up to hella Sherif El Hindi.
Wad Mayim or Wad Balula293Same as Wad Kerein.
8101Road crosses to left bank. Ford on Nov.13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. 24th, 6 inches deep. There is no roadon E. bank, only thick bush. From here open grass plain, bushinland, ½ mile off river bends from road.
Between road and river a strip of country withbig red sunt trees 30-40 feet high and good grasses. The road nowstrikes khor—thickly wooded leading to lagoon running W. fromriver, which turns to S.W., road goes round it turning W. andafterwards S.
7108Head of lagoon.
Muttu½108½Road branches to right of hella—Hawata(Arabs) 1½ miles off—300 yards from river in open bush.
1½110Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile of thickbush, kitr and talh.
1111Khor (dry).
2113Big khor, nearly dry—very difficultduring rains and up to Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. 27th.
2½115½Small road to right, leading to big khorthickly wooded, water 4 feet deep or lagoon.
1½117Khor (dry).
2½119½Ditto leading to meshra.
Road alternately bush and grass.
6½126Road branches to meshra.
6132Approaches meshra, 200 yards.
11143Deserted village, 100 yards left ofroad.
Road very good, broad and hard.
3146Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.
10156Ditto to Blue Nile.
1157Road from meshra to hella, inland 2miles.
4161Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.
3164Road branches to right towards river—leftto Sherif El Hindi.
Aruth Rutha2166Road to Hella Aruth.
Hafeira2½168Hella; Arab encampment; flocks andherds.
Wad Rekeih1½170Hella, 100 yards right of road.
Sherif2172Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.
4½176½Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. Roadcrosses river.
Abu Haraz24½201(Afterwards see map).
[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, 1901;only a slight trickle on 29th.]

23.—SOFI viâ ABU GULUD to SERAF SAID.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Sofi——Road goes down into khor and then windingthrough bushes and water courses follows crest of ridge betweenAtbara and Khor Gurri, then turns E. towards Kreder.
Kreder66A village of about 100 huts on spur aboveriver, and not as shown on old maps.
Sherif Ibrahim915There is no road now; I went acrosscountry, crossing ravines bordering Atbara, camels followed edge ofplateau about 5 hours’ march from Sofi. No village, only tombs offormer inhabitants. Path leads from village to Meshra onAtbara.
Dabuli1227Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. direction,and after 1 hour struck old path from Sofi; followed this, andafter 2 hours came on cultivation. A big khor runs in N.E.direction towards Atbara. There are old wells here and site ofvillage. New wells are being opened.
Goreisha1542Road now crosses khor above mentionedtwice, and after 2 hours J. Tomborgu is passed on the right. Fromhere road crosses three big khors, and in the next Khor J. Omrad,then cultivation of Goreisha is reached on left of road. Right side, thickbush. Another hour and Goreisha is reached; two villages with goodwells and cultivation in khor.
Abu Gulud446Road now crosses and recrosses this khor,which runs from Abu Gulud; after half an hour village of Salama ispassed on khor on right, and after half hour arrive at Abu Gulud.Two villages; wells and cultivation. From here a track goes toDoka.
Zemalat2066Road leaves here in S.W. direction; about1 mile Agala, a large village, is passed; about 4 miles on a rockyridge; ditto about 8 miles; about 10 miles village Lubaina. Fewhuts here. People only here for cultivation; water from Zemalatvillage on crest or ridge. Water from holes in khor below village,about 1 mile away. From here a good view of hills near Doka and J.Nahut, J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil obtainable.
Seraf Said1076Road now descends from ridge, cotton soiland bad going; about 6 miles out J. Meriod is passed on right oftrack—village round other side of hill. Direct track leads off toright to village; bad going cotton soil. Rocky water hole in MeriodKhor not used now; about 10th mile cross Seraf Khor.
Two wells with water-tracks lead fromhere to Gallabat and Duraba, and the road from Doka joinshere.

24.—FAMAKA to ABU RAMLA.

By Major C. W. Gwynn.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Abrunga——The direct route is up the khor throughthe Samina group. Very little water among these hills and none onthe road.
Belitamaru1414About 1 mile north of the village andBelitamaru there are hills giving a little bed water in the KhorGodaff.
Matongwe1125Matongwe is a small Gumz village amongthe rocks on the side and top of J. Matongwe. Good well at the footof the mountain. The mountain is a very striking needle of rockjutting straight out of the plain.
J. Abu Ramla1237No more water isfound till J. Abu Ramla is reached, and even there it can only beobtained in any quantity from the Khor Ramla at north-east end ofmountain. There are holes in the rock on the hill side, however,which supply the villages with drinking water.
Mek’s Village340
Another route can be taken fromFamaka along the Nile to Hoburra, and thence to Belitamaru throughAbrunga, but the first portion of the road along the river is verybad.

25.—KARKOJ to HAWATA.

By Mr. E. Bonham Carter, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Karkoj——R. bank Blue Nile.
Kamrab1818From Karkoj, a narrow but well definedtrack leads through bush, thick in places, to the village ofKamrab, half a mile beyond which is a well and trees givingexcellent shade.
Abu Hashim4½22½The R. Dinder is reached at Abu Hashim(Sheikh El Amin), a village on the left bank. The Dinder 100 yardswide was dry here (March, 1902), but there were water holes in itsbed.
Meshra Deberki12½35The road here crosses the Dinder andfollows the river to Meshra Deberki. River dry here, and about 100yards wide, but water holes in bed, and there is a large pool about¼ mile up the river. No village here. Little shade at Meshra, butplenty ½ mile further up the river.
The track here leaves the river, andafter crossing an open piece passes through thick bush for 2 miles,after which an open grassy plain with scattered bush extends forsome distance.
The track is merely a single donkey trackover deeply cracked cotton soil, and is bad going.
Khor Atshan1752Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow khordraining into the Dinder.
River Rahad1668Track continues same with occasional bushto the Rahad; a few tukls here. Rahad in pools.
Hawata371Three miles on down stream, Hawata isreached on the right bank. Here there is a pool a ¼ mile long. Finesunt trees.

26.—ROSEIRES to ABU SHANEINA by RIGHT BANK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, R.E., 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires——Mamuria, about 50 feet above the river onone of the steep spurs, which form the escarpment between thegeneral level of the country and the lower river bank. For thefirst 2 miles the road winds round these spurs close to the river.The road hilly. Then leaving the river it gets into flat countrywith thick thorn bush.
2¾2¾Path leads to El Damazin, a small villageon the river (not visited).
Abu Zago2¾5½Village lies to the east of the road andN. of the khor (not visited).
Khor Abu Zagoli16½A well defined channel 20 yards wide,banks 10 feet high, and steep. Halting place for water 200 yards S.of the khor. Water from the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation at themouth of the khor. Shelter tukls at halting place.
El Kharaba39½Three ways lead to the village which liesE. of the road not visited. Recognised camping ground, muchovergrown with trees and little clear space. No tukls, ¼ mile towater. From here to about the 15th mile the river is inaccessible,country flat, road good. At 15 miles it approaches the river on ahigh bluff, and Dakhila can be seen. Thence road descends and wouldin the wet season be very swampy. Thick jungle.
Dakhila8½18Small village of about 30 tukls. Liesvery low and has all the appearance of being feverish.
Water supply in the dry season from amuddy pool in a dried up channel, bad.
From Dakhila the road runs W. followingthe river, passing the spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd mile,road hilly and stony. After passing Maba, country is moreopen.
Khor Abu Ge725Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.
Khor Aiwani½25½100 yards wide, thickly wooded, slopeseasy.
Khor Yabis½26A well defined channel 20 yards wide,river within easy reach between Khor Aiwani and Khor Yabis.
Khor Yare1½27½A well defined channel 10 yardswide.
Abu Gemai1½29Rest tukls on high bank commanding a fineview of the river. Very good camping ground for small party. Waterclose, but road to it steep. Village of Abu Gemai on opposite bank,considerable cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.
After Abu Gemai the road leaves theriver, and water is not obtainable for some way.
Khor Zarifa433Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to risein J. Dimr, but more probably in J. Samina. Forms boundary betweenFazogli and Roseires.
Khor Abu Gerin4½37½15 yards wide, sandy. About 1 mile, and 2miles further on are two small khors and dom palms begin.
Ardeiba340½Recognised halting place, but tukls burntdown. Water 200 yards distant. River narrows to about 150 yards,river bank consisting of shingle cliffs. Village of Ardeibaopposite scattered tukls with little cultivation.
Khor El Masella1½42Wide valley ½ mile, well defined channelin middle.
Khor El Ghana2¼44¼Road to Famaka goes straight on, that toAbu Shaneina turns down the bed of the khor and leads to the ferry.Very rough stony foreshore.
Abu Shaneina Ferry¾45One boat capable of taking horses.Crossing about 300 yards. Village consists of scattered tukls amongcultivation. Starting place for most of the caravans to BeniShangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage (native) obtainable, also sheepand dura. A few donkeys.

27.—SENGA viâ DURRABA to UM EL RUG.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Mena——Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue Nile,Sheikh Adlan, descendant of Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs andHawazma. Broad well, defined track, good going.
Lueisa (on Dinder)15½15½Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, and someAshraf. At Lueisa also lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh ofDinder.
Track keeps away from river to cut offbends, direction about S.E. Cultivation near village.
Um Saba7½23Jungle closes in on both sides trackafter Kakum.
Khamisa4½27½Track well defined,soon after Khamisa enters bed of river, and comes out again sameside. Cultivation at villages, dura and semsem.
Abu Hashim7½35
El Hagar——
Murafa7½42½Most of villages on Dinder are nearpools, some have to dig for water in river bed.
Wad Bashush2½45Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck,&c.
Durraba7½52½Last inhabited place on Dinder.
Meshra Sherif860½Large pool.
„ Rekeba——Path less clearlydefined; black cotton soil, badly cracked; shadeless; tracks anddroppings of elephants abundant from Duraba whole way up Dinder.After this see no more people on Dinder.
„ Abgir5½66
Koka——
El Laban——
Refadik12½78½All places from Durraba onwards are onlywater pools, but were mostly hellets in old government days. Wateron Dinder excellent throughout, pools more frequent higher upriver.
Wad El Haj1189½After Refadik country looks moreinteresting, and good deal of game seen, ariel plentiful, freshelephant and buffalo tracks. From here a track made by game cutsacross large bend of river for about 2 miles. The only means ofprogress for hamla after this is in bed of river. Sand heavy, butsuits the camels well.
Meshra Gazar594½
Khor Gelagu10½105
„ Masawik1½106½
Beit El Wahesh——
El Dueim7113½
Semsir2½116Name applies to district around.
Um Bilbis13129
Um El Rug4½133½In this neighbourhood game is plentiful,such as elephant, buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, ariel reedbuck,ostrich, warthog, &c. There are also heglig, talh, kittr,hashab, sunt, kakamot and suba trees. Forests much damaged byjungle fires all along Dinder.

28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) to GALLABAT.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Durraba.
Khor Gelagu—53½A tributary on R. bank of Dinder, 53½miles above Durraba.
Farsh El Ghani——Track (made by game)keeps away from Gelagu on R. bank, going pretty good; woods (notdense) alternating with large open plains, covered with high grass,called farshes. Ras Amer is a long shallow lake, the west end about1 mile from Gelagu (which winds very much), at this time (March) 2miles long E. and W. by 150 to 300 yards broad. East end about 2½miles from Gelagu. Open plains; either end of lake swarming withgame, water of lake very thick and slimy, with fishy taste owing tomillions of pelicans, geese, &c. Gave several of our men sorethroats.
„ „ Sanei——
Maya Ras Amer (west end of)659½
Camp7½67Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on road),badly cracked cotton soil, yellow reed grass and sparsely scatteredtrees, but no obstacle to hamla marching in any direction acrosscountry, provided a couple of men go in front with axes to lop offbranches.
Warre10½77½Strike Rahad atWarre, which like all places mentioned here on the Rahad, used tobe flourishing hella in old government days, but now absolutelydeserted, and nothing to show that human beings have ever beenthere.
Wad Dam2½80
Wad Shusha2½82½River winds very much going alternatelyin every direction of compass, but doubtful if any time saved bymarching through jungle on either bank-bed 50 to 80 yardswide.
Araki688½All these places are on good pools.
Deleib Mugda492½ „ „ „
El Ebeik496½ „ „ „
Wad Arud5101½ „ „ „
Um Dakin2½104 „ „ „
Bed of river begins to be rocky in placesand going rough and bad for loaded camels; pools more numerous, notover 40 yards wide in most places.
Mukleil5109After here, better to march on R. bank,river bed stony.
Meshra Abid12121Soon after M. Abid leave river and strikeN.E. for Gallabat, soon strike on to track which goes from Gallabatto Hawata made by government last year. This road was made chieflyto enable cattle owners to take their cattle down Rahad, but theyall prefer to go viâ Gedaref because of the lions. Theroad is used to a small extent by honey seekers from Gallabat.Cotton soil badly cracked.
Babikr28½149½No water till Babikr-hella; consists ofseveral small groups of huts, cultivation, dukhn, semsem, cotton,dura. Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, Gunjara, &c. Country beginsto be more undulating, red sandstone, alternating with bad cottonsoil till Gallabat, stony in parts, bad going for camels.
Yunes——Village; well.
Basunda6½156 „ „
Kurunkula——
Wallak14170Sheikh of Gallabat and of thesevillages—El Sheikh Sheraf Abdalla. Well.
Khor Otruk9179Water in pool in khor.
Gallabat5½184½

29.—GALLABAT to WAD MEDANI, viâ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

By Captain C. H. Lewin, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gallabat——Route follows that to Gedaref as far asKhor Otruk.
Khor Otruk66Road here diverges toW., crossing Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor to right of trackunder large ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up valley through somecultivation passing village of Sultan.
Khor Yabis½6½
Sultan½7Well in course of construction. Water notyet (March, 1902) found at 30 feet, but said to be near.
Road winds on through forest, up valley,high wooded hills on either side, crosses spurs and khors. Owing toloose stones and steep gradients, camels can only do 2½ miles anhour.
Ras El Fil310Track passes over low pass close underthis hill, which is highest point of N. ridge, and descendsgradually to
Wallak2½12½Wallak, a scattered village of Kunjaras,one well 40 feet, fair water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of cotton,and fair amount of other cultivation. Road proceeds over more leveland open country, red gravel soil, and rises to a neck just S. ofKabushi.
Jebel Kabushi113½A conical grasscovered hill. Path descends sharply to water in hollow to right oftrack, but nearly empty by middle of March.
Water114½
Karnakala½15Village of Kunjaras. About 12 acres ofcotton and considerable amount of other cultivation. Two wells inkhor just under village, water at 6 feet good and plentiful. Rakubaby wells under ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru said he was asoldier with Gordon Pasha.
Track passes through village, turning S.just outside for a short distance.
Going not too good, stony, and as path isonly used by donkeys, is narrow for camels, who stumble a gooddeal.
Khor Abu Jamfa318Open khor; small amount of water inholes.
Kuka220Village of Kunjaras. Water comes out ofrock at bottom of deep rocky khor, which is overhung by largetebeldi tree of about 10 feet diameter. Road winds S. and then W.again, passing villages of Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mileinterval. These draw their water from a deep rocky khor half waybetween Kuka and Basunda. Good rakubas at all of them.
Babikr626Going improves as this village isreached. Road still winds through forest country. Very little waterleft in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh describes this as half-waybetween Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to S.W. and going becomesvery bad again. Cotton soil, which gives under camels as they goalong. Track very indistinct in places.
Domajura935Road winds between 2 stony low hills ofthis name. On W. side a well dug in the rock said to have been madeby Sheik Saleh Bey, formerly of Gallabat. No water now, and a badsmell emanates from it.
Hag Bakhit338Track passes over low rocky column ofthis name. One mile N.W. is ruined Deim of brother of Saleh Bey. Itlies on top of hill named Zurga.
Meshra Sirri or Abid (?)947Track gradually descends to River Rahadpassing a few stony hillocks. Bad going, over cotton soil all theway. Meshra 2 miles N. of steep rocky hill Jebel Surur.
Good camping ground in zeriba. A certainnumber of nomad inhabitants who come down to fish appear to makethis a halting place. Water clear, good, and pool deep. Swarms withfish and crocodile, and from tracks appear to be favourite wateringplace of much game, including elephant and lion.
From Babikr there cannot be said to beany defined track. The way is shown by blazed trees and stumps oftrees cut down by clearing party. The whole way practically is badgoing, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cottonsoil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route iswaterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places wherewater might be found if wells were dug.
From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughlyN.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees hereand there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels getalong with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, butonly for short time.
Meshra Kakamut11¾58¾Plenty of water in pool; good shade;zeriba; banks very steep down to water and difficult forcamels.
Meshra Myat Bringi1½60¼Track rises on to a broad low bank byriverside, which is evidently an island when river is inflood.
Meshra Ghaba Susa2¼62½Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, smallamount, and very green.
Bendego2¾65¼Zeriba and meshra. Banks very steep downto water. Quarter mile further on the track passes group of 11 verylarge tebeldi trees, one of which has diameter 21 feet.
Meshra tebeldi6½71¾Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, water ¼mile up stream, very steep bank and not much shade.
Meshra Sangafut374¾Sangafut, an island in stream when riveris in flood. Pool ¼ mile up stream. Banks steep down to pool. Goodshade just above. Meshra not at all apparent from road. Zeriba canbe seen from road, is built on the bank and is half way betweenwater and island of Sangafut. Water plentiful.
Between this and Ghaba Susa track passesacross several shallow khors but no water in them.
Meshra Deresa7½82¼Half a mile from meshra, and zeriba trackstrikes river at spot where broad belt of long grass intervenesbetween it and river bed. Follows curve of river round on highground to zeriba, which is at a spot on the curve where the riveris running from N.E. to S.W. Very steep path down to waterimmediately to W. end of zeriba, which was impossible for camels,but one just possible ¼ mile E. of zeriba. Water plentiful in pooland good. From here on trees decrease in size and become lessdense. Guide said this was formerly a large village and a battalionwas stationed here, which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 or 40 yearsago. The place was destroyed by Dervishes. The town was ½ mile N.W.of meshra and zeriba. Several lions heard here.
Wad Betul2½84¾Meshra, no zeriba, road immediately abovestream, and country much more open here. From here blazing of treesis discontinued, and direction has to be kept (1902) by compass andstream. Rate of progress cannot be reckoned at more than 2 milesper hour.
Khor Semsem7½92¼Broad shelving grass-grown khor runningin direction from N.E. to S.W. runs into river here. Bad meshrajust N.W. of it, little shade, and very steep banks. Water green.1½ miles from Semsem the river bed widens and becomes muddy—untilnow it has always been sandy—very good grass grows on the part fromwhich water has receded.
Island (name unknown)395¼River doubles back and runs nearly S.E.and flows round an island. Track follows several broad and verygrassy and bushy khors which caused wide détours.
2¼97½Good spot for camp immediately above alarge pool. Banks steep and thickly wooded, though immediate siteof camp clear.
The island seems to come to an end about¼ mile further down stream. From here the track becomes plainagain, the tree felling and blazing is regular and systematical,and easily followed. Going improves and camels can occasionallytrot. Country becomes more open and track crosses several shallowkhors.
Meshra Abrakuba6103½Track strikes river at a broad re-entrantbend. Plentiful supply of water and gently shelving banks easy forany animals to water. Good camping and grazing ground by theriver.
Shammam——A small tukl village of Dinka colonists.Sheikh Dik Malek. Is situated to left of track on rising groundamong trees above river. Dura cultivation shows its presence atsome distance from the track, from which it is itself invisible.Poor supplies; a little dura was obtained after some difficulty.Water good and plentiful.
From here track bends inland from rivercrossing the shallow khors of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track isindistinct and hard to follow owing to clearing having been done inmost erratic fashion. Camels have to proceed at a walk. After 7½miles track, strikes the river again, which is dry here, and isrunning round a large island, Geziret Fatna. Two miles further oncomes
Meshra Geziret Fatna9½119A large shallow pool rapidly drying up.Track runs along this pool for about 1 mile over rough going wherethe two branches of the river round Geziret Fatna re-unite andtrack strikes N. and then trends round to river again, striking itat Wad El Kashedi.
Wad El Kashedi2½121½A good pool, but banks steep, looks as ifan old canal formerly ran into river from W. Jebel Mogadad appearsin distance in E. direction. Going still bad. Cotton soil, butfewer trees.
Track follows close to river bank, wateroccasionally in pools, but banks steep. Two miles from Hawata trackimproves and enters belt of trees through which it is well cleared.Some cultivation about in cleared patches.
Hawata7½129Fair-sized tukl village of Hamadas. Fairsupplies and good pool of water immediately beside village. Trackfrom here improves greatly. It is well cleared and camels can trot.The journey from Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of 4 out of 5camels so badly that they were unable to proceed further. BetweenMeshra Sirri and Hawata game very plentiful. Numerous tracks ofelephants; lions were heard each night. Giraffe seen twice. Arielfrequently seen in enormous herds of over 100. North of Hawata nomore lions or elephants, and ariel became scarce. I saw nativescoursing gazelle, and they say they hunt a good deal.
Girbu2131From Hawata, track winds through treesand long grass to small tukl village on river bank with somescattered tukls further on. Country opens out into large grassplains dotted with bushes and clumps of trees.
Nuwar8139A small tukl village to left of tracksome way back from river. Jebel Beila at right angles to track,N.E.
Wadi Nagami3142A new tukl village of Hamadas rapidlyspringing up. Over 30 tukls already built. People said to bereturning from khors and jebels round. A few sheep, no camels.
Mafasa1143Another rapidlyincreasing village of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls shown. There arenow over 30 new ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no camels. About ¼mile from river. A little dura cultivated. From here, track passesthrough grass plains and trees for 3 miles, and then gets intothick bush country for another 3 miles, rising slowly the wholetime till it suddenly emerges on top of cleared, broken, andhillocky ground, from which it descends sharply into and crossesthe river bed which is dry here. After crossing the river trackturns S.W. following round S. edge of a dry shallow branch of theriver, which is lined thickly on either bank by good-sized treesthrough which path winds and gradually works round to N.E.direction.
Abraham6149
Muttu5154Meshra and various shifting tuklvillages, some inhabited, some deserted. People appear to come hereto build tukls before the rains begin, sow and reap dura on openspaces between the trees, and then move on. From here track is welldefined though crossed by numerous other tracks. Trees, except onimmediate river bank, cease.
Karakeila¾154¾Meshra, track to it branches off toright.
Abbas4½159¼Meshra, invisible from the path. Goodpool and shade; from this, track resumes N.W. direction.
Bir el Gamal16¾176Road forks here into an eye shape. Goodmeshra and distinct road down to it. It is under high trees whichshow on N. side of track on river bank about ¼ mile off.
Ghabat4½180½Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. JebelArang is sighted bearing N.E.
5185½A track turns off N.E. to Jebel Arang,and one bears to left running direct to Hafar. Main track leads onto Meshra Kheiari.
Meshra Kheiari6½192A good meshra with fair shade. Meshra ElGelma at 191½ mile found dry. Large numbers of camels about heregrazing. From here, track to Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runsnearly due W. on leaving the river, trees and shrubs soon cease andcotton soil plain is crossed to Kheiari a deserted village of about40 tukls; a deep well of about 6 feet diameter has been dug, but isnow dry. Track continues W. over plain, ground rising slightly toHafar.
Hafeira4½196½Large tukl village over 100 tukls allwell built. Inhabited by different tribes: Jaalin (few) Hawazma,Rufaa. One well supplies whole village, 72 feet deep and about 6feet wide, very good water in it. Said never to run dry. Few cattleand sheep and other supplies. Like all other places between thisand Gedaref it was laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his march to jointhe Khalifa.
From Hafar track runs W. over cottonsoil, is clearly marked. Clumps of trees and bushes in places.
Shebaga14210½Small tukl village, few inhabitants.
Alarebab9219½Track strikes BlueNile about 1 mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani. Ferryacross to left bank.
Wad Medani½220

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM to FAZOGLI.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum——Up to Soba, cultivation good on bothbanks, though confined to a narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
Buri33L.
Kuku1½4½R.
El Gereif26½Island here at low Nile.
Karkoj1¼7¾R.
Um Dom Island29¾½ mile above the island are the hillas ofUm Dom R. and El Hagirat L.
Soba413¾On the R. are the ruins of the capital ofthe once flourishing kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small village.Soba is the name of the district on both sides of the river, andcontinues to Soba El Taib a village 3 miles further S. on the R.bank.
Butri417¾Two villages of this name L. the other is1 mile further N. From here on for many miles the character of thecountry does not change. The eastern bank is covered with thick,low thorn jungle, while the western bank is open and sandy, verylittle scrub and half grass. There are patches of cultivation roundthe villages, and when the water falls, a narrow strip by theforeshore of the river is cultivated with heavy crops of dura,lubia, sesame, melons, and vegetables. Some of the islands also areunder cultivation.
Eilafun320¾Wood station and village L., a trackleads from here to Geili about 75 miles. About ¼ mile inland on theL. is the Government rest house of Sabil.
Dueikhla1½22¼R.
Bageir¼22½L.
Bageir Sharg2½25R.
Bageir126L. Another small village of the samename.
El Shereig228R.
El Gedid1½29½L. First of three villages of same nameextending for 1½ miles S. Cultivation round the villages.
Awag El Darb3¼32¾L. Between here and Masadia, a shortdistance inland on R. bank is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
Masadia2½35¼L.
El Nuba2½37¾L. Largish village ½ mile fromriver.
Mahas Island, N. end¾38½
Mahas, S. end2¼40¾
Maid141¾Large village L. with Rest house on riverbank and large mosque.
Alti1½43¾L.
El Nur144¼L.
Um Magad3¾48L.
El Tikena250
Bishagra Island1½51½Villages L. and R. The one on L. largewith three mosques. Former Dervish depôt and powder factory.
Fogur152½L. Small village.
Eidag1¼53¾R.
Takela¾54½L.
Sayal½55R.
Wad El Turabi358L.
Wad Esheib1½59½R.
Belula Kasembar¾60¼L.
Kalkol1¾64½L. Opposite S. end of island of samename.
Kamlin2½64½L. Head quarters of the Blue NileProvince, a large and growing village with market place, post andtelegraph offices, and a good rest house in a grove of date palmsat N. end of village. Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. Morecultivation from here S. Country also much more wooded. Resthouse.
Metemma1½66R. 1 mile inland. The road on the R. bankto Rufaa goes inland viâ the villages of Metemma, Brankoand Deim.
Hamed El Nil5½71½
Branko½72Some way inland R.
Um Degersi½72½L. Two villages close together.
Abd El Magdi173½L.
Helalia275½R. Large village.
Abu El Ashr1½77L. Helawin district commences here.
Bueida Island3½100½
Hegeir3103½R.
Wad Abu Furur3½107L. Large village with Government Resthouse. R. bank wooded.
Hassa Hisa4¾111¾L. Commonly called Hassai, largishvillage, the direction of the river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.Hassai and Rufaa being at the points of the curves of the S. knownas the Rufaa bend. Rest house.
Rufa’a5116¾R. Wood station. Former grain stores. AliWad Abu Sin, and Wakil el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab L. Rufa’ais said to be the second largest town on the Blue Nile. It standssome little way back from the river, and is a fairly populousplace. Its inhabitants are a branch of the Shukria tribe of Arabs,and call themselves Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are raised on theforeshore and islands in the vicinity, and melons are cultivated,upon an extensive scale on the flats up-stream of the town. Theriver here is very wide and shallow, and navigation in summer isextremely difficult.
Amara2118¾
Abid1119¾L.
Ereibab4122¼R. About 1½ miles inland.
Wad Belal4½126¾L.
Fadassi4130¾L. Large village and Rest house. Goodgarden on river bank belonging to Omda of village.
Fadassi Amrab2132¾L.
Tayiba3135¾L.
Hamid El Nil1½137¼R.
Abu Haraz1½138¾Starting place of caravan road toGedaref.
Abu Ushur¾139½R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water differslittle from that of Blue Nile; rather more vegetable organicmatter. Jungle begins both banks. This river, which rises in theN.W. slopes of the Abyssinian mountains, brings down a large volumeof water when in flood. It enters the Nile at an angle of 70°, andits bed in February was 3 feet higher than the water surface of theBlue Nile at that time. The Rahad, with the exception of a fewpools, is dry for many months of the year. Its banks at thejunction are steep and high, quite 39 feet over the bed, which hasa width of 71 yards. The flood-marks show that the rise of theRahad is from 15 to 19 feet in height. The Blue Nile at thisjunction forms an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend to the W., andagain another to the E. Its width, is measured, 595 yards. Thebanks of the Rahad River are covered with thick and dense jungle,as are both banks of the Blue Nile in this reach. Shortly beforeWad Medani is reached, the W. bank becomes open again, but theforest on the E. bank is continuous.
Wad Medani5144½L. Large and flourishing town, largest inSudan after Omdurman. Head quarters of Sennar Province. Post andtelegraph offices. A few European shops and good market. Civilpopulation about 30,000. Soil limestone with sand andgravel—healthy; Mosque with high tower. Country S. of Wad Medanibecomes thick jungle especially on E. bank.
From Wad Medani the shortest road toSennar leaves the river and goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,&c., meeting the river again at Danagila.
Goz El Fil5149½On island.
Ereibab1150½
Kurdugeili5155½
Ganneb6½162L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank isShabarga, the nearest point to R. Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7miles across.
Bagadi2164L. Large village.
Abd El Karim6½170½R.
H. Sherif Desis Yusef1¼171¾L. Rest house.
Doliba1¾173½L.
El Beriab4½178L. Large village on river bank in openground. Supplies plentiful.
Mouth of River Dinder2180Larger and more important river thanRahad. Breadth at mouth 120 yards (see [page 114,] Vol. I).
Hamed6186L. Three miles inland is the largevillage of Shukaba.
Abu Sogra6¾192¾L.
Danagila5½198¼L. Distant from Wad Medani by direct road31½ miles. Rest house.
Santobar2200¼L.
Banat2202¼L.
Barsi El Fadl2¼204½R.
Wad El Dai3207½L.
Wad El Haddad½208L.
Wad El Abbas6½214½R. Rest house.
Meshra El Hagirat5219½L. Rest house.
Habbania1220½L.
Shambata5225½R.
Deim El Mashaikh5½231L.
Sharif1½232½R.
Sennar2½235L. Now in ruins and deserted, old mosquewith high tower still standing. Vide [Vol. I.] Rest house at Kabush.
Abu Geili——
Kassab El Amin9244R. Opposite large island.
Shekh Talha6½250½R. Rest house.
Ereidiba2252½R.
Ereidiba2½255L. About 2 miles inland—largevillage.
Abdin4259L. Rest house.
Abu Shoka3262
Dakhla Shellal7269L.
Rammash8277L.
Mena Yusef6283R.
Wad El Ghazali2285L.
Senga2287L. Headquarters of a District andDetachment of Regular Troops here. Rest house.
Mena1288R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the sheikhAdlan is the descendant of the Fung sultans of Sennar. From here adirect road goes to Lueisa on the R. Dinder, distance about 16miles.
El Gazair6½294½R.
Brodras7½302R.
Karkoj5307R. Rest house. A large stragglingvillage, surrounded by bush and tall grass. It is close to theriver, the banks of which are steep. Inhabitants very poor and ofvarious tribes:—Kongeri, Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin andAgalin. Village on high ground, with small khors at intervalsrunning into the river. Soil, limestone mixed with sand andalluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet from surface. Three small springs ofclear water appear at south end of village, and reach the surfaceof the steep bank 9 feet from the top. On the L. bank in Nov. thereis a large stagnant lagoon, which probably increases theunhealthiness of the site.
One hundred and ten hours by steam fromKhartoum.
Karkoj used to be an important tradingcentre in the old days for gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, cotton,coffee (from Abyssinia), vegetables, &c. This used to be thelast place where one could lay in stores for further travel.
The river here is at high Nile 470 yardsbroad, average depth 23 feet, current 5 miles per hour; at low Nilethe figures are 330 yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles respectively.
Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly acacia,&c., begin at some distance off.
(Marno took 25 days in a nugger from Khartoumto this point, in February.)
The Upper Sennar negro race, the Hameg,now begin to populate both banks; a dirty, indolent race.
From Karkoj upwards both banks are highlycultivated and fertile, but only on the narrow strip which isliable to inundation at flood time. Camels become graduallyreplaced by donkeys and oxen. Too damp for horses; many mosquitosand poisonous flies (serút). Much rough cloth woven.
Track on R. bank lies through cultivationand occasional thick woods.
Seiru3310L. Rest house.
Zumorka6316R.
Lanni1317L.
Abu Tiga10½327½R. On main track from Karkoj to Roseires.Rest house.
Barankwa½328L. Swarms of birds in autumn. Waterchannel 700 yards.
Abu Naama1½329½L. Rather less vegetation; soil containsmuch iron peroxide. Reported immune from fever. Rest house.
Rumeila3332½L.
Tangaru1½334L. El Lakandi R.
Regeiba6340L. Rest house.
Bunzoga8½348½R. Boat building yard (?). Two milesbefore this the Khor El Malwai comes on L., and a track goes fromthere to J. Gule. Rest house.
H. Sherif Ahmed24372½R. Well-known point on river. Cultivationconsiderable.
Bados11383½R. Rest house.
El Gereif7390½R. Village up a back-water. Broadconspicuous belt of dom palms begins, and continues along ridge toRoseires. Rest house.
El Karori2½393R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.
Abu Ramad9402L.
Roseires[19]3405R. End of telegraph. Headquarters of aDistrict and residence of British Inspector; small garrison, postand telegraph offices. Old Roseires lies 3 miles further north.Hilly ground, thick dom palms along banks. Mimosa woods to the E.Plenty of game. Obstructions in the river begin some miles beforehere, and this is the limit of navigation for steamers or boats.About 2 miles south begin the Roseires cataracts. Malarial feverprevails during October and November. The soil here is composed ofalluvium overlying granite, in which the quartz and mica aresmall-grained, evenly distributed throughout, with a minimum offelspar. Less frequently the blocks are of large grained quartz,combined with felspar. The granite has been extensivelydisintegrated.
Abu Zoghali8413R. Mouth of khor of same name. Resthouse.
El Dakhla11424R. Best camping ground is where hospitalwas established after fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th December, 1898.The village is over a mile from the river inland. Village Iwanmarked on map is deserted. Latter part of road is thick jungle, andseveral deep khors intersect the path. Rest house.
Abu Gemai12½436½L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, about20 people. Rest house. Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road thegreater part of the way, but there are several deep khors boundedby thick jungle. In 11th mile you come to watering place,Ardeiba.
Ardeiba11447½R. Watering place.
Abu Sheneina3½451L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. bank,about 200 people; Sheikh Abd el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
Famaka9460R. The latter part of road is very roughindeed, going over shoulder of J. Fazogli; very steep and rockyabout 2 to 3 miles.
Fazogli1461L. Easy path.

[10]No water here, January, 1901.

[11]There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).

[12]This road has recently been straightened and improved.

[13]Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.

[14]This report is on the old route. The new route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering places are the same on both routes.

[15]On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).

[16]Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).

[17]Some of the names in this report will probably be unknown to many guides.

[18]Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.

[19]Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and Roseires are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right bank, between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.

CHAPTER V.

(CENTRAL SUDAN.)

31.—KHARTOUM to WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, and KARKOJ, up Left Bank of BLUE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Major de Rougemont and Captain H. F. S. Amery.

Corrected up to 1904.

Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum (Palace)——The road passes overan open plain after leaving the old line of fortifications (gate 1mile from palace), passing Buri District, comprising 3 villages, tothe left; then through Gereif district; 7 villages, populationabout 1,000; opposite third village the road is ½ mile from river;road runs over flat open plain; cultivation—dura, cotton, dukhn,and vegetables in small quantities round each village. A track alsoleads straight to the Sabil Rest house, by following which about 1mile is saved.
Um Dom Island——
Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat7½7½Not inhabited.
Road passes in straight line fromKhartoum to Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat; at this point it meets theriver; excellent watering place only, no village. The village of UmDom (R.) is exactly opposite Meshra El Hagar.
Soba411½A small village of tukls on the R. bank.Fourteen miles from Khartoum there is good watering place, nograzing.
El Sabil617½Rest house. No village.
El Bageir1½19On river bank, 1½ miles from road,population 200. Through Sabil Kasm El Sid District; signs of ruinedvillage on side of road, from which Eilafun can be seen, bearing55°.
Goz Shereig——On R. bank.
Gedid726Population 1,000; cultivation roundvillages (3). Track passes over barren treeless plain to
Masudia5½31½Village on River, population 500;cultivation between village and river.
Nuba2¼33¾A large village, mud houses, population1,000; good cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south of Nuba.
El Masid538¾Rest house. Road still through openplain. No cultivation between Nuba and Masid, nor at latter.Inhabitants cultivate opposite bank. Large village withmosque.
Alti139¾A straggling village ¾ mile long,population 1,500; bank of river cultivated.
Um Magad342¾Village ½ mile long, population 300.
El Tikeina1¾44½Population 200. Encamped in open plain ½mile south of village; good watering place; no grazing.
Bishagra El Gharbi246½Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra ElSharki on opposite bank.
Fadl El Fogur147½A small village on river bank, population150.
El Takela2¼49¾Straggling village, population 800, ½mile from road on bank of river. Traces of rain cultivation.Another village on right of road, 1 mile further south, also calledEl Takela.
Wad El Turabi2¾52½A large village, with large mosque, ½mile from river. There is a small village on river bank under trees(mimosa). Rain-cultivated dura commences on right of road. Plentyof cultivation on river bank.
Kasembar2½55A small village of Kamlin district, ¼mile from road, population 200. The road now enters the Kamlindistrict, which stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.
El Heleila156A small village of Kamlin district 1¼mile left of road, population 200.
Kalkol——Same as El Heleila. A thick grove of Dompalms close to village.
Kamlin2½58½A large village, population 1,500, withthin grove of date palms on north side with rest house. Marketplace, dura obtainable. There are government farms and old ruinedindigo factory. A good camping ground on south side of village. Theroad to Kamlin is quite suitable for wheel traffic. The inhabitantsof Kamlin seem prosperous. The Gezira seems well supplied withgrass. The road now passes through more cultivation;rain-cultivation dura on both sides of road. Head Quarters of BlueNile Province (P.T.O.).
Um Degersi6½65Two small villages, population 700, 1mile east of road; nearly all straw tukls. Near here another smallvillage on bank Abd El Magdi, population 200; river cultivation.One mile south on right bank of river is the large village ofHelalia.
Abu El Ashr368½A large village on river bank. Herecommences Halawin district (includes Abu El Ashr), population 600;mud houses. Road passes through open woody country.
El Talbab3¼71¾Two miles from river, population 1,000.Mud houses. The road continues through the Halawin district,comprising some 64 villages inland. Cultivation by rain.
Um Haboba3¼75Commonly called by the natives theGeneinat El Halawin; excellent camping ground, garden, excellentgrazing, date palms, lemon trees in garden. The road now passesthrough somewhat thick mimosa jungle to plain covered with thornscrub.
Wad Abu Ferugha (Furur?)378Rest house. A large village, ¼ mile fromroad on left, population 800. A few dom palms and grazing(indifferent) along bank. Opposite bank well wooded, inhabitantsdepend on rain cultivation.
Debeba280A long straggling village, 1 mosque, afew sunt trees. An island called Debeba in front of village.Bearing from north end of village to Rufaa 110°, about 3 miles offon right bank.
Wad El Ramil½80½A small village east of road. Bearing toRufaa 90°. Road passes through open plain.
Hassa Hisa orHassai282½Two large sunt trees, one at north end,one at south end. Fair size village at the apex of the bend of theriver, mostly tukls. One and a quarter miles further on are twovery large acacia trees; road open. The river here makes a sharpsouth bend, Rufaa being about 3 miles north-east from here on R.B.There is a telegraph office at Rufaa.
In the bend opposite Rufaa are severalvillages, chief being El Amara, which is the Head Quarters of theMamur of Mesellemia District.
Wad El Fadui587½Road leaves El Amara to the left andstrikes the river again near Wad El Fadui.
El Akura4911Conspicuous palms near river’s edge. Raincultivation all along road and inland.
Grigrib394½Small Halawin village. Old Mesellemia nowmostly in ruins, lies about 4 miles south-west inland fromhere.
Fadasi1¾96¼Large village. Inhabitants chieflyRekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El Nazir Yusef. Rest house. Fromhere track passes through dura cultivation whole way to WadMedani.
Fadasi El Amara1¾98Palms and good deal of bush along riverbank.
Wad Medani[20]10108Head Quarters of Sennar Province and 1battalion of infantry. Second largest town in the Sudan.
Habiballa3111Village on Blue Nile on left of road.Much cultivation hereabouts.
Um Bellal3114Village on right of road. Much junglealong river bank.
Bagadi9123Several villages arepassed and a good deal of cultivation to Bagadi, a large villagewith good watering place. From here the telegraph runs to Meshra ElBeriab (10 miles), and thence to Meshra El Shukaba (6½ miles);however, the most direct road cuts off the bend and strikes theriver at Meshra Shukaba. Several villages in this neighbourhood andbush both inland and along river bank. A road from Segadi joins inhere.
Meshra El Shukaba14137
El Denegila4141Good watering place; several villages.Cultivation.
Meshra El Dai9¾150¾Several villages andmuch cultivation is passed on the river bank about half way toMeshra El Hegerat. Much bush about here, but main road isgood.
Meshra El Hegerat7157¾
Sennar9166¾In ruins, but being re-built. HeadQuarters of District and garrisoned by a detachment from WadMedani.
2½169¼River bends eastwardsand road leaves it about 2 miles to the east and passes throughthick bush to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before reaching which SheikhTalha is passed on the right bank. Good camping ground andgrazing.
Meshra Eridiba11180¼
Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country ismore open, and cultivated with dura and semsem.
Abdin is a moderate-sized village onriver bank 1½ miles from main road. Good watering place. No grazingnear camp, but it is obtainable some 2 miles north.
Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to theeast.
Enediba13193¼On river bank. Fromhere there is a road following the river which makes a big bend tothe east to Senga. The direct road is viâ Enediba, andpasses through much cultivation and crosses many tracks to Senga,an important village on the river bank. This is now the HeadQuarters of the old Karkoj District. It is garrisoned by adetachment from Wad Medani. Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs livehere, but the population is much mixed. From Senga roads lead toLueisa and Abu Kashim on the Dinder.
Senga or Seneij11¾205
There is a P.T.O. here.
A road runs east from here viâTeigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali, and another to J. Moya. From J.Dali there are tracks to the White Nile at Jebelein and Goz AbuGuma.
Senga Um Benein6½211½From here the track runs due south toSenga Um Benein on river bank. Kenana village.
Meshra Dar Agil7½219Thence to Meshra DarAgil, whence by river bank to Karkoj, a town of not much importancenow owing to the transfer of Government offices, &c., toSenga.
Karkoj5224

32.—KHARTOUM to GOZ ABU GUMA and JEBELEIN, up Right Bank of WHITE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Captains T. Conolly and W. A. Boulnois (1899).

N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far as Shawal.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Leaving the most westerly group of palmsat Khartoum, the road runs due south for a mile, leaving thevillage of Goz on the left, and that of Rumeila on the right.Cotton soil. River visible.
Assara——In next 7 miles roadruns (185 Mag.), passing a string of villages on the right (W.)about 1 mile away. The name of all these seems to be Assara, tillone gets to the village of Kalakla, about 6 miles from Khartoum,situated in a large clump of trees. Road runs on open desertsand—very good going; river invisible, about 2 miles off.
Kalakla56
Sheikh Um Meriom39At 9 miles from Khartoum road passes avillage with a high tomb in it, called Sheikh Wad Um Meriom. Thislies on the river about 1½ miles from the main road.
El Kalakeil110At 10 miles road passes El Kalakeil onthe E. side of it. There are some signs in this last mile of thecountry having been cultivated. From here the river is about 3miles off, invisible on account of the bank of sand which forms thedesert edge, and some trees on it.
After this the road enters some low sandhills, with large clumps of big trees on the river side about ½mile off.
313Three miles off this brings one into thefirst open scrub, which gets closer as it approaches the river—butis not thick, except in a few places on the river bank.
Geziret Haraz417At 17 miles the headof two islands at high Nile (now no longer islands), called GeziretHaraz and Geziret Um Arda. These islands are, I believe, some 5miles apart at high Nile, but are now practically one, owing to bigalluvial flat from which they rise, being dry at this time of theyear (10.3.99).
Geziret Um Arda——
At this point, and for the next 3 mileson the road, there are a good number of shallow, 15 to 20 feet,wells, giving good water, slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but 7 werereported by natives. There are a good number of camels to be seenin this piece of country.
J. Auli825Eight miles further takes one to J. Auli,a steep rock about 100 feet high, with a small under-feature on theN.W., about 50 feet. There is a good meshra, or watering place.Under this mountain there is a good camping ground for abrigade.
Gar El Nabi328Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 miles GarEl Nabi is reached, which lies close to it. These 3 miles arethrough open bush, with river visible about ½ to 1 mile off.
432For the next 4 miles the bush getsthicker and the road is crossed by small khors, and in places bycultivation zeribas. River invisible.
Next 6 miles the bush gets more openagain, and a line of small sand hills is seen along the river edgehiding it. Horses can be watered anywhere in this 6 miles. In thelast half of this distance the trees cease on the east side of theroad and 2 large khors cross it.
Opposite J. Barima or Breima638At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite on theother bank of the river. For about 2 miles before reaching thispoint, and for 2½ miles after it, the road runs through sand hills,the river being visible about ½ mile off.
At this point (2½ miles south of J.Barima) the river is quite close to the road, which changes itsdirection to 200° magnetic.
745The road rises slightly in the next mileand 3½ miles further on goes through bush which, though open on theE. side, is fairly thick on the W., making the riverinvisible.
Wad Belal348After 3 miles through open bush and sandhills, Wad Belal, a wood station for steamers and a good wateringplace is reached.
250For the first 2 miles from Wad Belal theroad runs through scattered trees which become fairly close bush onthe river side for another 2 miles.
El Geteina4½54½The road enters a large plain of cottonsoil, with three tracks across it to Arab dwellings, towards thecentre of the Gezira about 4 miles in, and reaches the largevillage of El Geteina. On the river side there is a large alluvialflat about 2 miles across, and 3 to 4 miles long, which runs northof El Geteina towards Wad Belal. There is a curious round sand hillin the middle of this flat which must be an island at highNile.
El Geteina consists of two villages about1 mile apart, the larger of the two being to the north. It isfairly clean and has a very good market. There was a certain amountof cultivation going on with Shadufs (not an amount proportionateto the size of the village), and a large tract of country isobviously sown with dura during the rains. This was the mostprosperous village I saw on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is nowHead Quarters of Geteina District.
One mile over cotton soil beyond thevillage of El Geteina, a small one of the same name isreached.
Immediately on leaving this, the roadruns into sand dunes with bush for 1 mile; river close (200yards).
After that, 6½ miles of very good goingthrough scattered trees. The road here is crossed by a large numberof Arab tracks to meshras; and many herds of sheep and goats wereseen. River invisible from road.
The next 3 miles runs through fairlythick bush with open spaces. This bush gets thinner as it recedesfrom the river. During the next 2½ miles the road passes to west ofa fine strip of open cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, separatedfrom the river by a thick strip of bushes and a large alluvialplain, so that now (12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles from theriver. Much dura seems to have been grown here, but only a smallportion of this large plain was under cultivation last year.
Garrasa1266½At the end of thisplain to the S.E. there are a line of sand hills running N.E. toS.W., and getting gradually smaller towards the S.W. These runalongside the road, beyond the open plain, and end in some smalldunes near the village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a smallvillage—without a market—the people of which seem poor. There is agood meshra here. Leaving Garrasa the road runs through about 3miles of dura land, a large part of which has been recentlycultivated. River ¼ to ½ mile away.
369½
Wad Shalai2½72After 2½ miles more, alongside sand hillsnear the river, the road reaches the small village of WadShalai—the inhabitants of which were all away on the river bankcultivating.
Wad El Saki779Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, a largevillage on the top of some sand hills, is reached.
The population was about 400 to 500(March, 1899). The road runs the first half of this distancethrough sand dunes on both sides, with the river close and visible.The last half leaves the river gradually, and passing through somedura ground, is about 1½ miles from it at Wad El Saki.
Sayef382From here 3 miles take one to a fewhouses about 2 miles from the river on some sand hills calledSayef, being one of three villages of that name.
486After 4 miles overcotton soil the road crosses a sand-hill ridge running at rightangles to the river, and about 1 mile from it, and descends intothe plain close to the river at a point where another village, alsocalled Sayef, is seen about 2 miles inland. At this point there isa good meshra, and a ferry to the other bank.
187
693After several miles of low scrub on theriver side, and cotton soil which has all been cultivated, on theeast Debasi Meshra is reached.
Debasi295Here the Khalifa had a big grain depôt,the ruins of which can still be seen. There is a regular ferry fromhere to the other bank. Two miles from this meshra is the villageof Debasi; population about 400. The road for this distance isthrough sand hills, ½ mile from the river.
The village is on the north bank of deepkhor. No water in khor (13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might entail 2 or3 miles circuit at high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha (3½ miles)road close to bank. Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles distant.
Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile east ofroad. Sandy bank to river, good watering; slight scrub close toriver to 6th mile. Thence scrub and sunt trees along road (thicknear river), cotton soil, muddy bank. Road closes to river atGhobeisha.
Ghobeisha13108Ghobeisha meshra and village, good placefor camp and watering. Road crosses open plain with high grasscotton soil, probably under water at high Nile.
Ghayafa4½112½Ghayafa meshra, good camping ground andwatering place; sand hill near meshra. Scrub fairly thick, cottonsoil.
Denegila8½121Denegila village, W.of road, opposite island of same name; 1½ miles further, villageAbu Karun, N. of road, where it crosses track to Um Seneita, thenceto Um Gar village, W. of road, opposite island same name. Duracrops in this district; thick bush close to river to Meshra ElHella. Road runs close to river to Kawa.
Um Gar4125
Meshra El Hella3128
Kawa4132Kawa, large village with suk, HeadQuarters of District, Post and Telegraph station. Road runs ½ mileto 1 mile from river through dura cultivation, and then over grassyplain past village Abu Hindi.
Meshra Shaggara6138Meshra and village close to river.
Hassan Alob7145Thence past Kanuzvillage, with island opposite, the road runs ¼ mile to ½ mile fromriver to Hassan Alob, on the banks of the river with an islandcalled Dabus opposite. Still through bush country to NurEl Daim (largevillage and police station). Road leaves river ½ mile to 1 miledistant up to Sheikh’s tomb (Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on theriver bank. Three large trees, a ruined mud and brick building, andsome flags mark it.
Nur Ed Daim3148
Sheikh’s tomb3151
Shawal2153Road bends due S. to Shawal. Largevillage. Country: open bush, slightly undulating; good sandywatering places at river. J. Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island begins2 miles S.
Malaha3156Meshra Malaha andvillage Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt works. Road enters scrub;bush country to Marabia, good camping ground on high ground, wherethere are the ruins of an old fort and brick buildings. Road leavesriver, crosses a grassy plain—probably under water at fullNile—passed village Torba, E. of road, and turns S.W. to Goz AbuGuma, Head Quarters of District, telegraph and post office.
Marabia8164
Goz Abu Guma or Zeinuba16½180½
From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile to 1mile from river. Line of villages (see sketch) on highground about 4½ miles from river. Chiefly cattle grazing.
El Khema6186½Road joins river atEl Khema. Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; good camping ground andsmall village. There is a ford here at low Nile. Two miles furtheron Musran Island begins and continues to 3 miles of Jebelein.
Mokada Abu Zeit4½195½
Meshra Hedib4½200Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The roadkeeps close to the river bank. The E. channel seemed very muchblocked with sudd, only a narrow passage 50 yards wide beingvisible at times.
Meshra Zuleit17½217½There is a meshra toMusran Island, 7 miles as the road turns from Jebelein calledZuleit. Hence the road winds through thick scrub, with patches ofopen country right up to the ford at Jebelein.
Jebelein8½225
Rocky hills commanding the river about300 feet high.
Grassy plain between north and southridges.
Village on E. of southern ridge.

33.—KHARTOUM to GULE, viâ MANAGIL and SEGADI.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum——Leaving Khartoum bythe track passing 200 yards west of the westernmost rifle butts,the country for the first 7 miles is quite open, and very slightlyundulating. The soil is poor and sandy, and no attempt atcultivation is visible. At 8 miles the track passes through lowscattered arak bush, which continues to Id El Agaliin, where thereis one well 120 feet deep with a good supply of water. Ahmed ElFaki is the Omda of El Agaliin. Very fair grazing for camels onarak bush. Leaving the Id the country soon becomes open and bare,the soil richer, and traces of cultivation appear. Numerous crosstracks to the river are met with.
Id El Agaliin17½17½
Id Wad El Bella421½One well 120 feet deep; water said to beplentiful.
Sherafat930½A tukl village (allvillages met hereafter are built of tukls) is passed 1¼ miles on W.of track. It has a well. A mile further on arak and laot bushcommence and continue to Id El Orus, where there is one well 120feet deep; water plentiful, but slightly salt. About a mile beforereaching the Id a large village named Debeisa is passed about 1mile to the east. The people here are a mixture of Jaalin, Awamer,&c. Very fair grazing for camels on arak; there is little or nograss here or anywhere else this year.
Id El Orus5½36
7½43½On leaving the Id the same sort of countrycontinues, cultivation and scattered arak bush, the track stillkeeping the same S.S.W. direction. At 7½ miles the road to El Ribibranches off half left, and 2½ miles further on Id El Kereil ispassed, ½ mile off on the right, the village being about the samedistance further W. of the well. The country now becomes perfectlybare (at this season), it being entirely under cultivation, if notthis year at any rate in a good season, and the bush ceasesaltogether. Villages begin to get numerous, and natives are morefrequently met, as from here on to Managil, but few leave theirvillages for the river. This district is known as Gutefab, and thechief village is El Areik (Awamer) which is on the road, the Idbeing a mile to the east.
Id El Kereil2½46
248
Gutefab El Areik452
355About 3 miles on arakgrows and affords the only grazing for camels, but it only extendsfor about ½ mile along the road; the country then become scatteredwith laot bush and naal grass.
257
Goz El Naga259Goz El Naga is passed about a mile on theright. Not much cultivation visible about here.
Dagala362A small village with no well.
1½63½Road branches: rightto Sarhan, left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where lives the sheikh of thesame name; his ancestors are buried close by, and have always beenof a so-called religious nature and used to be at any rate, if notnow, head of a dervish-like Tarika. Village consists of about 100tukls. Low laot bush around here. Leaving the village on bearing216° after 1¾ miles road from Dagala to Sarhan is met and followed;the well of Sarhan being passed close by on the left and thevillage about 1 mile on the right. Country here quite flat, andcovered with naal grass where not cultivated. El Ogda a largeMugharba village with one well of the usual depth, 120 feet. Waterplentiful, 50 camels watered without inconvenience to inhabitants.Leaving the Id, country continues the same flat naal-covered plainwith occasional laot bushes until nearing Wad El Zein (Omda AhmedWad El Zein), where remains of cultivation increase. There is onewell 120 feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No grazing here for camelsas elsewhere in this neighbourhood. Cultivation occurs atintervals, becoming more general after passing Sheteita a smallMugharba village. Kreimet is a large Arakin village, Omda AhmedYusef. Its two wells are 4 miles further on. Another large Arakinvillage on left of road with a well, as also have two othervillages close on right of road.
Wad Abu Kassawi366½
1¾68¼
Sarhan371¼
El Ogda5¾77
Wad El Zein11¾88¾
Sheteita492¾
Kreimet5½98¼
Wells4102¼
El Tageia1¼103½
Managil3½107The plural of ElMangala, the name given to the village in which the suk issituated. There are some half dozen to a dozen villages closetogether. There are three wells and water never fails,notwithstanding they are 150 feet deep. Here there are inspector’shouses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There is a large mixed population,some of whom were seen playing a game called “tiwa” very likerounders. The plain of Managil is absolutely flat, without a singlebush in sight, the whole in favourable seasons being given up tocultivation. Market days are Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving Managilby the route taken Otgi (Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El Shagl(Faradiin) are passed a mile or more on the right hand, whilstTakala and Um Dugl are passed on the left, before reaching Um Talhaa Faradiin village. All these villages have wells, as have allvillages of any pretensions about here.
Um Talha9½116½
Sheleikha2½119A Shaigia villagepassed on left, and Wad Doka on the right, before reaching El Amara(Hameg), and ¾ mile further on Wad Gangar (Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾miles further on, and a ¼ mile before reaching it a small suk ispassed. From here on the people are Kawahla.
El Amara3½122½
Wad Gangari¾123¼
Rabaha1¾125
Between Managil and Rabaha the trackappears to follow a low ridge overlooking an extensive and fertileplain to the W. growing a large amount of cotton and dura. J.Maturi is plainly visible.
Khalet5½130½After leaving Rabaha track passes throughlow laot bush which continues as far as Khalet. Two villages,Hellet El Hag and Wad Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile on theright and left of road en route, as also is Sheikh AbdelRof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is the last on the road to Segadi, there are severalother Kawahla villages with cultivation and wells close by. ImamAli is the head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet it is possible underfavourable conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon after leaving Khaletthe first kittr is met, it now becomes the prevailing bush.
Wad Mukashfi4½135Called after the sonof the Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, who (son) now lives hereand is said to have only lately come out of prison for dervishpractices. This is the last village in the Managil District of BlueNile Province. The Sennar Province is now entered. After passingthe Mukashfi cultivation, the road leads across an uninhabitedwaterless plain until Segadi is reached. This plain, on whichnumerous camels are grazed during the rains, is, as a rule, openand covered with naal and siha grass intersected at intervals bybelts of kittr, the thickest and widest is in the last 4 milesbefore reaching the hamlet on the north of J. Segadi. Anotheroutlying hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed but not seen, about 4miles from the jebel which strongly resembles J. Kassala on a smallscale. It consists of two main granite masses lying north-east andsouth-west, the wells being between them. There is also one on thewestern side of main jebel. The village, which must contain some1,500 inhabitants, is close to the western face of the largerjebel. The population is very mixed, and many only live here duringthe dry season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is Sheikh of this heterogeneouscrowd. There are said to be caves in the jebels here, whichdoubtless occasionally harbour bad characters from the Gezira andelsewhere.
J. Sejadi24159
1160
Moya13½173½Following the telegraph line which runsE.S.E., Moya is reached in about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is passedthrough en route, but the road is cleared for the wire.Approaching Moya much cultivation is passed in clearings in thebush. The name Moya as applied to this village is an euphemism aswater is particularly scarce, and is obtained from several 15 to 20feet wells under the jebel 1 mile south of the village. In the hotweather the inhabitants (probably 2,000) disperse or else carrytheir water from Segadi. The Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, andthe majority of the population are Amarna, a few Hameg and Gowama.There are caves called “maiuba” in the jebel close to the village,said to be used for “fogara.” From the summit of the jebel, J. Daliis plainly visible on a favourable day, bearing 177½° magnetic.There is little shade here.
Road to Teigo3176½After hugging the eastern end of J. Moya,the road to Gule turns nearly due south, the road to Teigobranching off S.S.E., and after traversing a bad belt of kittr bushabout ½ mile in width, the road crosses a plain at first studdedwith kurmet, but later without bush at all.
4180½Road here bifurcates, the left hand trackleading to the river (Blue Nile).
5185½The road from Seneij or Senga to Goz AbuGuma viâ J. Dud crosses the track.
J. Sereig10195½A small granite hill about 200 feet high,the road passes it 100 yards on the right hand.
6201½Scattered bush nowcommences and continues with occasional interruptions untilreaching the bad kittr about 1 mile wide surrounding Jebel Dali, astony hill about 500 feet high. Water is found about half way up,immediately below its highest point. After a good rainy season itlasts till March or April, but there was practically none onFebruary 4th, 1902.
J. Dali19½221
J. Abu Garud22243The road from Sengaviâ Teigo on Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu Guma passesby this watering place. Remains of former habitations of Abu RofArabs are visible. Leaving the jebel in a southerly direction aftertraversing a thick belt of kittr, ½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visibleon the left and J. Abu Garud and other hills on the right. AbuGarud is the highest hill seen south of Khartoum. At first thecountry is open, then forest (chiefly soffar) begins and continuestill after passing J. Bozi a long, low hill immediately under thewest end of which the road passes, and then becomes open untilreaching J. Mazmum. Here rain and spring water is found in natural tanks inperhaps half a dozen places. The amount of water of course varyingwith the rains. There was sufficient in a tank at the foot of thesouthern end of the western face of the jebel to water 40 camelsand 40 men for two days. This exhausted this supply. A spring atthe foot of the southern end of the western face, being on theroad, is the one generally used, and the supply is consequentlylow. There is a tank about 20 yards by 10 yards on a detached hill,about ¾ mile N.W. of main jebel. Water was found of an averagedepth of 2 feet, both sweet and clear. This being off the road hadnot been much used. There is said to be always water at Mazmum. Nonatives[21] live here now, though formerly it was headquarters of the Abu Rof Arabs, the remains of whose houses arestill visible. Good shade (200 men), and very fair grazing forcamels near western water tank. From here, Gireiwa and other hillsto the S. and S.E., as well as Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easilyvisible.
J. Bozi9252
J. Mazmum14266
Water Tank1½267½
4271½The track to Gulestill leads south, the country being open for first 4 miles, whennarrow belt of bush is traversed. Five miles further on thicksoffar bush commences which develops into forest, which extends E.and W. continuously for many miles south of Gule. The principaltrees are hashab (very numerous about 20th mile, but decrease asGireiwa is approached), talh, nabag, soffar, kadad, and thepoisonous (to camels) hakabit. Wide clearings along the pathindicate that in the old days this road was much used, but now theyare mostly overgrown, and travelling by night is an unpleasant, ifnot a dangerous proceeding.
5276½
J. Gireiwa21½298Two long low hills running nearly E. andW., and where the road passes between them there is a small supplyof water (spring), 20 yards on right side of road.
El Burun7305J. Gule is firstvisible from here, and is a granite mass about 1,300 (?) feet highand 1¾ miles long, lying nearly E. and W. El Burun a small villageat the foot of northern face of the jebel is first approached, theroad then turns to the west, passing an encampment of Dar AgilArabs, and after rounding the western end of Jebel Gule the villageof Gule is reached close at the foot of western and of southernface. There is a plentiful supply of water, which, however, islargely impregnated with lime and consequently is injurious tohealth. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh of Dar Fung and lives here. He isa direct descendant of the kings of the Fung, whose formerterritory extended to the south beyond the present limits of theSudan-Abyssinian frontier. The total inhabitants of Gule and itstwo outlying hamlets is about 1,000. The natives are Hameg, andSelim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam about in the neighbourhood. Roadslead from here to Roseires (5 days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, andRenk (2 days). There is much fever here during and after the rainyseason. There is good shade about 1 mile east of the village.Little in the way of supplies, not even grain, is obtainablehere.
Gule3308

34.—MANAGIL to SENNAR.

By Captain N. M. Smyth, V.C., 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Managil——Headquarters of District (videpreceding report).
Abud (Abudia Tribe)9½9½Most fertile land in the Gezirahereabouts. Track runs E. through grass plain. Bush visible 1 mileto S. Two wells 150 feet deep. Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to WadMedani, and S.E. to Sennar.
Um Deghina (Kawahla)110½Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry afterDecember. Cultivation commences.
212½Mimosa scrub W. of track.
315½Village of same name ½ mile S.
217½A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high, and highgrass on both sides of the road. The Hassanat have a camp in thewinter about 2 miles W. of track, and water at Abud andAtaleih.
Ataleih421½Two wells. A large tree ½ mile N.W.serves as landmark. No good shade obtainable. S. of this, thornyscrub has sprung up on fallow land. A track leading S.W. to Bagadi,Kenana, Digoisab and Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on aboutS.E.
Keteir627½Small village marked by a large tree. Onewell about 150 feet deep, runs dry directly after watering about200 people, 300 sheep and 20 donkeys.
Karatib (Jaalin and Kenana)431½Large village, good well, excellent blackcotton soil extending for 3 miles in all directions. Only patcheshave been cultivated for dura.
233½Thick bush and high grass. View limitedto 300 yards.
Basabir (Jaalin)134½New well being sunk. Cotton and duracrops.
Fahal (Kenana)135½About 50 huts to W. Copious supply ofwater from well. A small khor S.E. of it holds water till December.Wood extends to S.
Fahal Suk136½Consists of rows of straw shantiessituated in a wood. It is chiefly used by Kenana.
El Giseirab238½One good well in a clearing in wood.Easily defended; good bivouac ground.
Tulbakh442½Last mile of approachis open and partly cultivated. Long straggling village. Dry pondand cemetery N. of it. To S.W. the market, and a well and pondwhich dried up about 10th February. Mohammed El Nur of Kenana isSheikh of village. Several hundred sheep, many donkeys, one horse,fowls and pigeons, but no camels. The best marked track leads S.from the Suk, and, bending S.E., passes zeribaed dura fields to ElDoma, where there is a village and a well. It continues, throughshady acacia and fields to Meshra El Dai, whence the Blue Nile canbe reached.
El Doma850½
Meshra El Dai454½
Meshra El Bejirat256½Good halting place on bank.
Sennar965½Banks wooded.

35.—KEILI to SENGA, viâ GULE.

Compiled from a Report furnished by Lieut.-Col. Gorringe, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Keili, S.W.——Limited water supply from water holes,but more could be had by digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil inplaces and stony in others—single file along track.
Khor Farsia1111Insufficient water at Kukulik, had to goon to Khor Farsia, fair supply of water by digging 4 feet. Afterwhich, no water first 3 miles. Cotton soil, single file. After J.Doya, good hard going cotton soil last 2 miles.
Khor Togu33½44½Ample water 18 feet below surface in KhorTogu, first 4 miles cotton soil. Rest house. After reaching J.Dunkur good hard going for 3 miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1 mile eachside J. Bur-Burka good going, then bad again over cotton soil,insufficient water at first village 4 miles from spot camped at, alittle water half way between village and camp in Khor Togu.
Seraf Dal10½55Ample water running and in pools, singlefile, stony, fair going only, bad in places. Rest house atSoda.
Khor Tamrin762Fair supply of water in pools probablyample by digging, a good deal up and down hill, hard going butstone, single file.
J. Kukur567Good supply of water reported in SerafSahaba, hard going, stony, single file. Rest house.
J. Buk (N.W. end)8½75½Rest house. Fair supply of water in waterholes, cotton soil, single file, bad going. From here on no water,very bad going, hard cotton soil badly cracked, single file, thoughroad has been widened.
J. Gule30½106Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad Ragab.Limited supply of water in water holes, good supply from Governmentwells, very bad going except in few places, soil badly cracked,single file, though road has been widened.
J. Jemam or Ali9115Small supply of water here.
J. Roro (N.E. side)5½120½Plenty of water in water holes 4 feetdeep, going same as before. Continuing, no water but better going,though mostly cotton soil, single file.
J. Werka19139½Small amount of water in holes.
J. Gerebin15½155Very limited supply of water in waterholes in two places at N. side of hill, just sufficient water ineach to water about 100 horses once. There is however a largetank of beautiful water on the top of the hill. This does notlast throughout the dry weather. Going same as before. From here tothe river there is no water, going for the first 7 miles same asbefore, after which it improves, but all marching is in singlefile.
Meshra Gurra (Blue Nile)25180From here good road down L. B. Blue Nileto Singa.
Ramela10190Jaalin village.
Abu Naam3193Village on Blue Nile.
Geneira8201 „ „ „
Seiro7½208½ „ „ „
Senga19½228Head quarters of Senga District.

36.—SENGA to J. JEROK, viâ KHOR OFAT and KEILI.

By Captain C. Roberts, R.A., February, 1904.

Note.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.

From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Senga——Leaving Senga, road good, mostly overcotton soil; last part better than first, but dusty. Countrycovered with bush. There are two roads; westerly one to Um Bayagaand thence S.E. towards river, other road runs nearer the river.Wheeled transport feasible.
Um Benein66There are two Meshrashere, bad at High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood plentiful, grassfairly so. From here two roads, the one nearest river is shortest.Going on upper road bad after leaving Dar Agil, last part betteralong telegraph line. Thick bush. Good camp about 2 miles fromtelegraph line. Good Meshra, wood and grass plentiful, duck jhil 3miles S. of camp.
Meshra Abu Hagar1824
Abu Naama1438From here two roads, one along river,other along telegraph line, latter shorter. Bad going, cotton soil, thick scrub.Bad (steep) meshra for animals. Headquarters of District.
From here two roads, better and shorterupper one along telegraph. Country thick bush, more undulating.Good going.
Gura1553Good meshra and shadycamp. From here two roads, lower one along river the shorter—latterpart along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts through it. River reachedby elephant track. Country dense scrub, and difficult for camels atnight. At high Nile lower road impassable. Good camp on sandy bedof river. Grass plentiful and watering easy. Road now good thoughhilly, and follows telegraph line, but branches off to riveropposite to Sherif Ahmed (right bank). Dense bush.
Galgeni1568
Taulu1987A very good, large camping ground ongrass and good meshra. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp must beswampy in rains.
Road still hilly; difficult khor about 4miles from camp, could be easily improved. Road difficult forcamels owing to thick bush, and road along telegraph toohilly.
Abu Kok17104Camp at Abu Kok in February bad, as siteis really a marsh. Bad water, but later on river is getatable.
El Disa10114From here road along telegraph, but laterbranches off to El Disa on a rise overlooking small lake. Verypretty place. Camped on sandy river bed; easy watering; wood andgrass plentiful.
After striking telegraph good road, first4 miles through thick scrub. Hilly at first, level after passingAbu Rainat, and much cultivation.
Roseires (Left Bank)14128Good meshra, fair camping ground, woodand grass plentiful.
Kharaba (Right Bank)11139Continuing S. good going to oppositeKharaba. Good camp in grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks steep andbed of river soft.
Mouth of Khor Ofat16155Good road, last part through dom jungleto Khor Ofat. Found eight water holes dug in khor, and cavalrycamped 1 mile further down at pool in bed of khor. Good campingground in bed of khor; grass and water plentiful.
Camp (Khor Ofat)16171The route taken nowlay nearly due S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles followed khor,then found excellent road, except for occasional deep elephanttracks along bank. Mostly cotton soil and thick jungle. Descendedinto bed of khor after 10 miles, and marched up it to where wefound running water. Good camping ground close by. Grass, wood, andwater all plentiful. Continuing S. outside khor, cotton soil, goodgoing, thick bush, grass higher and thicker as we descended intokhor, 9 miles from last camp. Left khor again still heading S.,road bad, cotton soil, trees bigger. Last 4 miles country more openand going better. Extended formations possible. Camped at poolwhere large herd of roan drinking. Khor 400 yards wide. Good camp,grass, shade, wood, and water plentiful.
Camp, Pool (Khor Ofat)20191
Camp (Khor Ofat)15206From here marched up khor; mostly veryheavy going, parts of it hard. Uninteresting road. Khor narrows to120 yards. Halted at two big water holes. More water obtained bydigging under W. bank.
Continuing marching up khor which becomesnarrower and stonier, passed through several “shellal” (cataracts)and khors running into Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor good hardgoing.
Camp (Khor Ofat)15221Banks become lower, bamboo jungle chieflywith large trees. Good camp and water from holes in bed ofkhor.
Camp (Khor Ofat)13234Leave Khor Ofat tothe W. At first bad going, pass large patch of cultivation withtukls and leave J. Ragreig on the E., and strike khor at pool; goodroad. Khor 15 yards wide and runs E. and W. here. From here goodroad to Keili. Good camping ground, but water in wells dirty. Goodwater obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles N.N.E. Garrison, 50Sudanese regulars. Path from here excellent, passing through gooddeal of cultivation and leaving J. Kamya from which good view of asurrounding country obtainable close to E.
Keili5239
Khor Timsa11250After J. Kamya track intersected by khorsand is over bad cotton soil. Good camp, grass poor, waterplentiful.
From here to Jerok trying march, as pathcontinually ascends and descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the W.
J. Jerok20270Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad Mahmud.Garrison of 50 Sudanese regulars on small hill, about 1½ miles S.Water supply scanty, but plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in KhorAgaheni.

37.—ROSEIRES to KEILI, viâ GULE.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires——
Abramat33Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road goesthrough bush and grass.
J. Agadi[22]2225Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here inthree places, not good. Road now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; usualcotton soil and bush.
Seraf Jogo2550Rest house and good water here in khorfrom a spring; tobacco cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad going, overrocks; pass spring at Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.
J. Buk1262Water here under villages on S. side ofhill, not good. Road goes off N.W. towards Gule; grass and bush andcotton soil.
Gule27½89½Water here good intwo places on S. side of hill. One deep well, good water, also bighole with Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; a flat depression withsmall khor in it; sometimes water holes where Arabs water sheep.Well 20 feet deep, good supply of water; track turns to S. to J.Silak.
Khor Deleib16½106
J. Silak22128Water south side of hill, full of filth,natives even say it is bad, except just after rain. Rest househere.
Road goes off due E. through pass in J.Sirefat to J. Mogaja.
J. Majaju19¼147¼Village on top of high rock; water has tobe brought down by natives—very good; go due South now to Abuldugu,road over hard ground. Well can be easily sunk at bottom of hill 6feet deep. Rest house.
J. Abuldugu16½163¾Water here in pond in pass in the hills,getting bad at this time of year (Feb.). Water obtainable fromwells in K. Ganna, not very plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a Resthouse here.
Track due S. to J. Surkum.
A track also goes to Keili (9 hoursmarch), water plentiful, Kukeli two-thirds of way.
J. Surkum14177¾Water in four places on S. side—verydirty.
Water also obtainable in khor about 1½miles N.E.
J. Keili20197¾Track goes off to W., and is over cottonsoil, and crosses khors. Water here plentiful. Best water S. end ofbig hill some way up. Rest house.

38.—FAZOGLI to GEZAN.

By Lieutenant L. C. Jackson, R.E.

The Road.Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.

The Country.Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.

Water.Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later.

Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Fazogli, Mek’s House——The road leaves the village in asoutherly direction and runs straight to the foot of J. Fazogli, onreaching which it follows the S.E. spur, but without ascending it.At first it runs through patches of cultivation, but after about ½mile this gives place to thin bush. The road is for the most partgood, except where it crosses numerous small khors, tributaries ofthe Khor Akluli, which also follows the foot of the ridge, as arule between the road and the high ground. The ascent on the rightof the road is very steep, and the hill side consists of bouldersand loose stones and is covered with scrub.
Kukuru6¾6¾Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a few tuklsare passed, and shortly afterwards the road bends eastwards andenters the village of Kukuru, which consists of some 50 or 60tukls. There is a considerable amount of cultivation here, but mostof it lies S. of the khor on the Kira road. At the end of December,1899, water was only obtainable from holes in the bed of the khor,and appears to be very bad and scarce.
After crossing the khor the road runsstraight through the bush to J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. Upto J. Taza the surrounding country is flat and the bush thick, andnothing can be seen from the road, except an occasional glimpse ofa distant hill. A very small quantity of water was obtained bydigging in the bed of the Khor Daru on the 24th December,1899, but four days later on returning this had dried up.
Beyond J. Taza the country is moreundulating, but still covered with bush, and for the last ½ milebefore Khor Baba it is somewhat rough.
Khor Baba8¾15½Camped here 25thDecember, 1899. A tributary of the Khor Tumat about 25 yards broadwhere crossed by the road. Good water obtainable, but gettingscarce now. Road beyond somewhat rough and uneven, which is causedby the spurs of J. Agaro, &c., all of which hills are left onright. Bush, with no traces of water, until Khor Sumba is reached,but J. Agaro is inhabited by Jebelawin.
J. Agaro4½20
Khor Sumba525Crossed three times in the space of about½ mile. Probably due to an S curve in the river and not threedistinct channels. Breadth of each about 35 yards, but extremelyshallow. Banks very fertile and a good deal of cultivation,principally dura. Good water obtainable here.
Khor Tumat126Road just enters khor, where it is joinedby Khor Kari, but leaves it again without crossing it. Khor about60 yards broad here. No water visible, but could probably beobtained by digging, as there is any quantity just below thesurface about 5 miles further south. From here to the Khor El Dahab(Adaba), trees are bigger and water evidently more plentiful, withmany traces of all sorts of game.
Khor El Dahab2¾28¾Crossed by the road about ½ mile from itsjunction with the Khor Tumat. Water obtainable at present, but verylittle and bad. Road crosses east of J. Farbau, passing over someof the low spurs; ground broken and stony. All traces of water nowdisappear and the ordinary bush begins again. Numerous small khorsare crossed, but all completely dry. J. Gumbûk is left to the E.,and about 1 mile further on signs of water are again visible andcultivation recommences, also two or three tukls. Henceforwardcultivation is continuous, and about ¾ mile further on at some moretukls the road turns abruptly to the right and runs straight downto the Khor Tumat.
Gezan (Water pool in KhorTumat)836¾Camp here in bed of khor 26th December,1899. Water good and plentiful but below surface.
Milk and other supplies only obtainedwith great difficulty.

39.—GEZAN to KURMUK, viâ SUDE and M’NZILA.

By Major Gwynn, D.S.O., R.E.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khor Tumat——Track passes underthe northern foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching J. Sude, water isfound in Khor Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain amount of gold washingis carried on in both these water courses.
J. Ghezan33
J. Sude1215Sude was the site of an old EgyptianMamuria. The present Mek is a Berta and very few of the nativesknow Arabic. There is a good deal of cultivation and plenty ofwater is obtainable.
M’Nzila8½23½M’Nzila is a large scattered village tothe south, and south of J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground is undercultivation. The leading men, most of whom are Jaalin whoestablished themselves there in the Dervish time, are prosperous.Road from Sude to M’Nzila very rough and bad, good water in theKhor Goga near its source.
From M’Nzila there is a fair, though veryhilly, road leading west over the north shoulder of J. M’Nzila andsouth of J. Tone. A very deep ravine runs along the south side ofJ. M’Nzila into the valley between Dul and Kurmuk.
The descent into the valley just north ofJ. Tone is very steep.
Sh. Adingam’s Village5½29At the bottom of the valley is Sh.Adingam’s village, where there is a good water supply.
Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk severalgold washings are passed near the foot of J. Dish.
The Kurmuk village is very small andthere is little cultivation.
The road from Sh. Adingam’s is very badand stony till clear of the hills. Then there is flat, thicklywooded country.

40.—GULE to RENK.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gule (Rest house)——The track to Renk leaves Gule in aneasterly direction and for the first mile traverses cultivation,two small Selim Arab encampments are passed on the right hand;thick forest at once begins, composed chiefly of 30 feet high talh,hashab, nagba, kadad, soffar, &c., and there is a large amountof the (to camels) deadly poisonous hekabit. At this time of yearthe grass and undergrowth is burnt, but the trees are sothick[23] that they prohibit marching at night unlesswith a good moon. Riding a horse or mule one is far lessinconvenienced than if on a camel. There are fairly frequent openspaces suitable for camping grounds.
2121The dense forest ceases and more or lessscattered and much lower bush takes its place.
526The country through which the track leadsbecomes practically open.
1½27½A broad, ill-defined depression, probablya marsh in rains.
532½Tall and rather close kittr commencesinterfering somewhat with progress.
2½35The tall kittr ceases and country becomesopen.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt237A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet deep iscrossed, also known as Deleib.
138Kittr bush commences and continues forabout 2 miles, not very dense.
4½42½Dense tall kittr commences, considerablyretarding progress, and lasts for 2½ miles.
2½45Country becomes open and cultivation ispassed on left.
146Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain village ispassed and the road now runs along the side of a low, sandy ridgedotted with heglig trees, cultivation, and several Dinkavillages.
147Dinka village on right.
148Dinka village on left.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt4½52½Khor El Sunt is recrossed in twobranches.
Sheikh’s village½53Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head Sheikh atRenk.
Village1½54½Village.
Meshra Renk155½Inspector’s and police houses on bank ofWhite Nile. Headquarters of District. P.T.O.

41.—JEBELEIN to RENK (R.B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum——
Jebelein225225Country round Jebelein is grass with laotand kittr bush in thick patches. River here 600 yards wide (dryseason), rocks showing river in places. For first mile or two afterleaving Jebelein open grass plain on E. of track, kittr bushbeyond. A few heglig trees between track and river.
Sherif2½227½Name of spot only; this name applies tocountry next two miles.
Wad Nimol Island3½231
Um Romad3½234½End of district of this name which beginswhere Sherif ends.
Maghaba1½236District only; no inhabitants. N. end ofBulli Island begins and track along khor which forms it, water onlyin places in khor.
Awad El Kerim2½238½Khor and small hill of this name. Roadalternately good and bad from kittr bush.
Debba Goda3½242J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last visiblefrom here; Sheikhs Tomb on bare hill 50 feet high.
Debba El Ghoda2¼244¼Small khor; ground slightly undulatingand rising inland.
Ganus8½252¾Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet abovetrack, no inhabitants, only a name.
Karshawal9¼262No huts or signs of permanenthabitations; a few Baggara “rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.
Old camp3½265½Old entrenched camp about 80 yards by 30yards on rising ground 200 yards from river on right hand side oftrack, good meshra.
Karshawal Island2267½Going bad on account of kittr. This islast water before reaching Agang as river makes a bendwestwards.
Agang13280½Dinka villages of Nyitau and Manjak,generally called Agang.
Renk3283½Good meshra. Police Post. Mosquitoes hereare very bad. Advisable to encamp inland near Dinka villages.Telegraph and Post office here.

42.—RENK to KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.

By Captain H. H. Morant, March, 1902.

General.The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum——
Renk283½283½A meshra on the W.Nile with inspector’s house and police tukls. The road at firstleads in a S.E. direction, and after 2 miles Khor Deleib 30 feetwide and about 6 to 10 feet deep is crossed. Another smaller khor,a branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ mile further on. The road now runsalongside a wide khor or branch of the Nile named Gaza El Abiad.The track to Gule branches off in a S.E. direction. Numerous Dinkavillages are passed about a mile E. of the road (which is excellentgoing), and continue at intervals until after passing Sheikh BakhitNiok’s (a released slave from Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A fewShilluk villages are passed on the island called Wad Ab Kona,formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and White Nile. This khor at High Nileis probably 300 yards to 600 yards wide, but now (March) it isnowhere more than 300 and fordable nearly everywhere. There aremany wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the people are mostly SelimBaggara living in temporary encampments about a mile inland for thegrazing.
Khor Deleib2285½
¾286¼
Warrit9295¼
Um Hedeida11¼306½The encampments now cease and the waterin the khor gradually decreases until at Um Hedeida, water isstagnant and only in small quantities. The country on E. of trackwhich always follows the eastern bank of khor, is covered with 3feet high grass (where not burnt), and scattered bush and no signsof cultivation are visible.
3309½Water reappears in the khor, and thereare Selim encampments to the E. of the track.
Leungtom or Domaia3½313At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or Domaia(Arab) the Nile is approached again for the first time since Renk.About 1½ miles inland are the villages of Kolang, El Wat, &c.,under Sheikh Salem Banga (also a released slave from Cairo). Acertain amount of cultivation is visible and the country istolerably open. Soon after leaving the meshra, the track followsthe eastern bank of a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. The Arab namefor it varies with the districts it traverses. The Dinka name wasnot obtained. On the W. of the track is a fringe of thick talhbush, to the E. the country is fairly open.
Debba El Zawia4317The first dom palms are met here. ThisDebba is the commencement of the Nabagaia district.
Dinka village, Anok2½319½A village, Anok, belonging to AgweimDinkas, is passed about ¾ miles to E. on a slight elevation andthick talh bush commences on both sides of the track. This villageappears to depend on the river for its water supply.
The bush gradually develops into talh andheglig forest. There is good shade all along the khor and thetrack, as it has been throughout, is excellent; the trees along theroute cause little inconvenience.
Tereiba (Arab)9328½Nabagaia district ends and Tereibabegins, and is marked by the reappearance of dom palms.
2330½An excellent mid-day camping ground, goodshade and water in the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible from nearhere.
Debba Ibrahim Sharak (Arab)3333½Dense forestcontinues until reaching this slight elevation (called after a manwho was killed by an elephant here), and commences again afterabout a mile of open ground, and the district of El Ragal (Arab)begins, and the khor now takes that name.
El Ragal (Arab)——
Track leading to Kash Kash (Arab andDinka)2½336A track branches off eastwards and issaid to lead to a Dinka village or district called Kash Kash 15-20miles from the river. There are said to be wells there. The bush orforest after leaving Debba Ibrahim Sharak up to this point isunpleasantly thick, especially for night travelling, but here thebush ceases to cause any inconvenience.
Goz Abu Teiba3¾339¾A slight elevation; amile further on the road was left and Khor Sangeir about 100 yardswide and now (March) dry, was crossed.
Khor Sangeir or Rau¾340½
Khor Messangeir1341½This khor wouldprobably be a considerable obstacle in the rains, and would have tobe crossed some distance up. After a good rainy season the peoplein the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which is about 15 miles further upare said to drink from it until well on into the dry season. A milefurther on Khor Messangeir or Mariu, or Balantega, a rather smallerkhor is crossed. J. Ahmed Agha or Biba about 300 feet above theplain. There are several Dinka and Selim Arab villages in theneighbourhood, but no one lives here during the rains. The Dinkasthen retire inland and the Arabs to districts N. of the fly limit.From Ahmed Agba there is a little used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit,which is visible from the top of the Jebel, and is described asbeing distant two days without water. Sheikh Jok is the DinkaSheikh here and Akwé acts for him when absent. There are many dompalms around the Jebel. Water is obtained from Khor Biba or AhmedAgha, the river which here bends S.W., is about 1 mile W. ofit.
J. Ahmed Agha orBiba1342½
Heglig or Tau3345½Is the name of thedistrict which extends for about 6 miles opposite to Gezira WadBeiker on the northern end of which is a Shilluk village EdorGamoia. Marbeit (Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the name of the nextdistrict.
Gezira Wad Beiker2347½
Edor Gamoia——
Marbeit or Shakab2½350
1½351½The road which has been skirting thebranch of the Nile (about 30 yards wide) for about the last 4 milesnow ceases to do so, and a grassy plain which at High Nile must bea swamp intervenes between it and the river.
Ial Gamus——A Shilluk village on the island. TheSheikh after whom the village is named, is a refugee fromCairo.
Kwé4½ ½356A Dinka Farikh.
Alumbul½356½Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country roundis fairly open, scattered kitr and naal grass. Both these villagesare under the control of Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.
Meshra Zeraf1½358The meshra extendsfor about 2 miles; the road skirts the river and crosses a wide,shallow khor called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Arabs. It is said tocome from near Aturuk.
Farlegh Meshra Zeraf or Makwé2360
Rom (Dinka) or UmGursan3363Dinka villages named Rom under SheikhJok. The district is known by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the trackfrom Renk to this point is as a rule excellent, but from here toKaka it is generally bad, passing over very hard caked and badlycracked cotton soil.
2365Fine kuk and other trees are passed. Thesmall black fly was exceptionally bad here in the early morning andattacked the camels in swarms.
Tereiti4369The district of Tereiti begins. Ardeib ElMiriam (Arab) is the district on opposite bank.
Meshra Rom orTereiti3372Meshra Rom or Tereiti.
Dinka villages, Fil and Ajak3375Villages belonging to Adeir Dinkas. Riverabout 1 mile E. of track, to the W. the country is more or lessopen with patches of bush and trees in places.
Dinka villages, Nakwé and Fithi7382Villages under Sheikh Akol WadAshol.
Jung Yom¾382¾Dinka villages under Akol. The river isnow about 2 miles away, right of road.
Debba Shagerat1¼384Arab name for knollon right of point where road bends westwards and crosses a marshy(in rains) plain to Sheikh Akol’s village about 1 mile from riveropposite Kaka, where there are many Shilluk villages. The Arab namefor this marshy district is Shagerat El Ashera, and Dinka LoingShuk.
Debeik2386
Shagerat El Ashera or LoingShuk (opposite Kaka)——
Ajok2¾388¾Skirting an openmarshy (in rains) plain on right and following line of trees onleft, Dinka village named Ajok is reached. Tracks now becomenumerous and ill defined, and one was followed which led across anopen marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of Kaka, woodstation, known as Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village is situatedclose to the river bank.
Kaka, old wood station6¼405

43.—RENK to opposite KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, December, 1902, January and February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Renk——Track taken depends on thetime of the year. Up to January inland track must be followed owingto water on the lower.
Telegraph Hill11On sandy hill near river;village of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka from Bahr El Ghazal. Fromhere the track follows the telegraph line for some miles.
Khor Deleib½1½Merely a dry ditch in the dryseason; another dry branch is passed about 300 yards further on.Country here is open grass land; few small trees.
2½4Thin forest of laot thornbush and small heglig trees.
Gaikwach37A village of the Akudistrict, Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another small village 300 yardsfurther on.
1½8½Position of old Dinkavillage.
Kelang2½11Small village of this name,left.
Loingwen½11½Beginning of village ofLoingwen, which comprises five small ones, all under Sheikh BakhitNiok. From here along the lower road there are no villages beforeElwat, and travellers must halt near water.
Bangdit1½13Sandy debba; no habitations.Scene of a former fight between Dinkas and Government troops. Thetrack now descends to the bank of the khor that divides Island ofGaza-el-Abiad from the mainland and runs for the next 5 miles onhigh sandy ridge within 500 yards of the water. Guinea fowl andgazelle in abundance; a few tetel seen, and tracks of antelope,hippo, and buffalo. A good deal of kittr near track since Bangdit.No large trees.
Lardbiu2½15½Sandy debba on left.
2½18Good camping ground.
Abiad Shwai119High sandy debba, which usedto be covered with big tamarind trees which have now gone. Shortesttrack is now along telegraph line, but is probably impassable inthe rains. Leave khor on right. Country bushy with small hegligtrees and some kittr.
3¾22¾Sandy hill on right. Tracknow crosses open plain of black cotton soil, covered with rankgrass.
Elwat5¼28Beginning of Elwat, districtof Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.
129Salem’s own village, about 2miles from the river. This is the first meshra since leaving Renk.High debba between this village and the river.
From Elwat the track runsalternately through open ground and patches of bush and red talh toAnak.
Anak5½34½Village of Gi-el district.Three small villages. The local Sheikh Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runsthrough bush and thick forest for many miles. Lower track desertedby Dinkas, who follow the line now, as being shorter.
Mabiu3½38High debba on right on edgeof khor. Track along the khor is close to line here; now get intothe land of big trees.
Dungbiagadet1½39½Debba on right.
Allal2½42Debba. Beginning of Allaldistrict, which exists in name only. Arab name Tereiba. Many thickdom palms.
1¼43¼Debba Allal.
Ragal1¼44½Beginning of district ofRagal. No people.
Debba Ragal1¼45¾Debba Ragal, about 200 yardsfrom khor. Little game seen here, though plenty of fresh tracks ofelephant, buffalo, &c.
Kefali¼46Debba. Many dom palms. Thiswas site of old Dinka village. Open park land, which soon changesto very thick forest; open again after 1 mile.
248First view of Jebel AhmedAgha from track.
149Forest of red talh; old Dinkaelephant pits, and many skulls of these beasts.
3¼52¼Track divides, one going onto the jebel and the other eastwards—inland. This latter goes tothe Dinka district of Baanwen, which lies up Khor Rau. A track usedto exist to Goz Kash-Kash, but is now said to be “dead.”
Khor Rau¼52½Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyondbend in the telegraph line; 40-feet waterway, 3 feet deep;unfordable for loaded transport animals on account of mud(December).
Jebel Ahmed Agha254½The route followed will beseen by comparison to be several miles shorter than the old trackpreviously sketched by other officers. Shortest track is now alongline, though the going on the lower tortuous native track isbetter.
Goz Unaché2¼56¾Highridge of ground on left, used to be thickly populated by KwachDinkas. Whole track is through dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk,kittr, and talh, except at Mile 62, where there is a broad openplain.
5¼62
Meshra Zeraf7⅝69⅝Also called Mukhada Zeraf. NoDinka villages here, though there are some old cattle zeribas.These change yearly—last year’s spot was called Anambul. Some Dinkarefugees are, however, going to build this year on the meshra,which is well suited for purposes of being irrigated by shadufs orsakias. This is the first meshra since Elwat, and the last untilKaka old wood station, though in the dry season Meshra Rom becomesa meshra.
Jungle around Meshra Zeraf ismostly kittr.
Khor Makwé1¾71⅜600-800yards wide, and even in dry season impassable, for some way up. Indry season a track exists from here to Kaka wood station by theriver bank. The track to the Dinka villages, however, runs up thiskhor till Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves the khor and runs offsouthwards over a grass plain. Khor Makwé runs on to Aturuk, adeserted Dinka village.
4¾76⅛
Khor Turiak1½77⅝Track runs along this khor,and 1 mile further on crosses it. Arab name for this khor isFo-alig.
¾78⅜Enter forest now, whichconsists of trees and kittr bush, alternately with occasionalpatches of park-like land, for the next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is onthe left of track till spot where track crosses it, and this khorwinds about on right of track till Mile 89⅛.
Gi-ka-kiu11¾89⅛This is the chief village ofRom, and this is the name generally used, though the people speakof the grazing grounds near the river as Rom, probably denotingthat it is the grazing of the Rom people. Sheikh Jok WadAgeir.
Debba Fajak493⅛Site of old village.
Kolerang1¼94⅝Small village, part ofRom.
Bafing195⅝Small village, part of Rom.Trees on horizon. Cross khor here.
2¾98⅜Cattle zeriba left, belongsto Fiti (see later).
Gio1¼100⅝Large village of Gio, ofdistrict of Ageir, also called Faloich (name of the spot). Villageof the Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad Shol. Good wells here thatsuffice for the needs of all the inhabitants all the year round,but not for all their cattle. From Gio the track runs W. toDemtemma along a well-defined ridge for several miles; villagescluster thickly along this ridge. Khor Kayaluk runs on left oftrack.
1½102⅛One of the villages of Beiacan be seen from here left. Trees 2 miles off right. Thick bush 1mile left on other side of khor.
Debba Mioriak2104⅛Debba Mioriak on left.
Ai-yowel¾104⅞Village of Ageir on rightwith one big tree on east edge. Village of Kil 1½ miles offhalf-right. Village of Makwé is behind Kil in the forest.
Jung-yom1½106⅝Village, part of Ageir, onright. Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in bed of khor, available atall period of dry seasons. Travelling is now most uninteresting, novillages and hardly a tree to be seen.
Debba Fadiet4110⅝Site of an old village. Vastgrass plain on every side; not a tree or a bush to be seen, even onthe horizon.
Debba Fojbe3¼113⅞Site of another oldvillage.
Demtemma7120⅞Situated in belt of trees onriver bank. Was till recently a police post, but latter has nowbeen moved to Melut, 3 miles down stream, to where the telegraphoffice is.
1½122⅜Track crosses dry khor whichwould be a considerable obstacle in the rains.
1⅝124Cattle zeriba of Beia onbanks of Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide here and 4 feet deep,muddy bottom, clean banks. A big debba on south side of the khor,and 1 mile from the mouth of the khor. Broad swamp on right oftrack.
2⅝126⅝Track descends to river bank;thick bush most of the way on left of track.
Tiang-rial4⅜131A cattle zeriba of Beia left.Backwater or small lake between track and river. Island in river,north end.
½131½Thick bush left.
½132End of backwater. March onriver bank; track winds along river bank, occasionally through verybad kittr bush, which can be avoided in places by marching alongthe foreshore.
5⅜137⅜Big ardeib tree—conspicuouslandmark; backwater between tree and river. After 2 miles the bushceases, and track lies over an open grass plain.
4¼141⅝Cattle zeriba of village ofBekjuka (Beia). Name of locality Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts hereand runs between track and river all the way to just south ofFashoda.
1¾143⅜Cattle zeriba of Bawen andAddora, of district of Ni-el. There are three other zeribas betweenthese last two points.
Mialek3¾147⅛Cattle zeriba of Bawen(Ni-el).
Fanomdit2½149⅝Debba and cattle zeriba ofdistrict of Dunjol.
Faloich1150⅝Debba and cattle zeriba ofNi-el.
Wunakoch½151⅛Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.
¾151⅞Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bushon right between track and khor.
Jomweira——Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100yards further on. Track now crosses broad shallow khor 2 mileswide.
1152⅞Bush right; grass plainleft.
½153⅜Track enters bush right,leaving khor left. Forest of red talh and heglig, which continues2½ miles to Mile 157⅛.
Faldiar Rowe3¾157⅛Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Trackleaving this zeriba crosses a shallow khor and passes through athin belt of forest on to the bank of khor.
Khor Awilwil1⅛158¼Awilwil, from whence Kodokcan be seen for the first time. Track runs southwards along bank ofkhor for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, and path is over vast, open,undulating plain.
Debba Denkar½158¾Good high debba.
1⅛159⅞Track bifurcates here, onefollowing khor and going to Ayung’s zeriba (see later),and the other running through the Dinka villages of Dunjol. Theformer track is the shorter by 2 or 3 miles.
Amai-rial (opposite to Kodok)1¾161⅝Village of Dunjol districtwhich is spread over a vast plain opposite Kodok.
Amaal1¼162⅞
Fiuweia1⅛164¼
Ateptiap3⅜167⅜
Khor Wol⅛167½Track crosses this khor whichhas water in it in pools and excavations for 10 miles up. Can beascended by small steamers at high Nile. French steamers used toascend in 1898.
1⅜168⅞Large cattle zeriba of SheikhAyung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. This spot is almost due south ofKodok. Between the river and this track is a broad swamp and theformidable khor Awilwil. From here a track runs inland through theremaining villages of Dunjol, keeping in touch with Khor Awilwilall the way, passing through or past the following villages andplaces:—
Mile2¼.Wunfit, debba with few trees.
„3¼.Faiung, village.
„4⅜.Wumakoch,village.
„6¼.Tallen,„
„8¼.Fanakwé,„
„9¾.Fakok,„
„10½.Ang-ak,„
„12.Fobodiet,„
„14.Temohuk,„
„16.„
eventually running to theSobat River, which it joins near the Dinka district of Gnok.
1¼170⅛Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.
Diem Ajak¾170⅞Debba 600 yards right. Bushcommences 200 yards further on. Khor Awilwil runs into the Nilesomewhere here by native report.
1¾172⅝Cattle zeriba of Fadweia.Track is good and winds along the khor, which runs from near whereAwilwil joined the Nile to the south.
Wuntao2¼174⅞Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Nameof the locality as well as the village to which the people belong.The Shilluk Mek’s village is due west.
Meshra Merial2¾177⅝Said to be practicable allthe year round as a means of communication between Dinka andShilluk banks. Shilluk village Kwom opposite. Great numbers ofpartridges all along here, affording excellent sport walking themup.
The track along here is allgood going and would be quite passable in the rains.
2¼179⅞Cattle zeriba of Fadok(Dunjol).
Diwot1¼181⅛First Shilluk village metwith on this (east) bank. End of the Dinka country on theriver.

44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA to AWITONG and KASH-KASH.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, January, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Jebel Ahmed Agha——The track up Khor Rauruns northwards for 2 miles and then crosses the khor, and turningeastwards follows it closely. Country well wooded, though in placesthe forest gives place to bush.
22
Gaibek7¾9¾A village of the Dinka district of Gi-el,sub-division Baanwen. The whole of this country is in certain yearsunder water, not from the local rains, but from the overflow ofKhor Rau, which brings water down from the Abyssinian mountains.After such a flood, extraordinary dura crops are harvested, beingsown as late as October, when the waters subside.
Debba Mabiu5⅛14⅞On R. bank of khor, which is here some 60yards wide, with pools of water in places. Scene of fight betweenDinkas and Government troops in reign of Said Pasha.
¾15⅝Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of Gi-el.Lake filled with weeds and ambach.
Birket Rau116⅝Another cattle zeriba of Kwach, and justup stream a large open lake or swamp, filled up with weeds, &c.Quantities of wildfowl and snipe; also lion, giraffe and antelope,all of which were seen.
From here a track runs inland to theDinka villages, and a track exists up the khor, the ultimatedestination of which it is impossible to judge from native reports.Track inland very bad, cracked cotton soil, and long, rank, unburntgrass, which, bent down by the strong north wind, presents all itsspikes at the face of anyone marching northwards.
Awitong622⅝Built on a mound which is surrounded bywater in flood years. Country wooded, small trees.
325⅝Very fine dura cultivation extending formiles. Large white dura; one “head” which was counted contained2,600 grains.
Dry lake¾26⅜Extends some miles and track winds alongit. Many fruit-bearing sidr trees in bed of it.
Water hole127⅜Situated in thick forest; Dinkas inzeriba near here water their cattle from this and do not go toriver until it is dry. Elephants had drunk here the previousnight.
Woniat¾28⅛Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas. From herea good track goes to Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no water to begot on route.
Debba Fobung2¼30⅜High sandy debba, from here a small hillcan be seen, Jokdit, direction was pointed out by a Dinka up atree; bearing 355°.
¼30⅝Water hole at N., foot of debba,dries up latter on.
Track is now excellent, running throughsandy goz, ground high and forest of fine trees (sabakh). This roadis passable all through the rains, and devoid of long grass andmud. Leads to Renk.
131⅝Two small dry ponds.
Goz Kash-Kash2¼33⅞Heavy sandy ground; very fine forest ofbig trees. Six wells dug in the sand, water said to be availableall the year round. One huge ardeib tree by wells. Many treescalled “dorod” by Arabs, “gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs to theriver on the Ahmed Agha—Renk road, which it joins at the spot wherethe old Dinka elephant pits are, but it is now disused and chokedwith grass.

45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, January, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Mouth of Khor Adar——Khor at mouth is about 40 yards wide andseveral feet deep, the depth being, from about 100 yards up-stream,uniformly 4 to 5 feet. Dinkas say there is a current in therains.
1¼1¼Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank; big DebbaL.
¾2Cross a small khor that runs in fromN.
3¾5¾Cattle zeriba on leftbank. Khor bends off to the R., and is joined again at 6¾ miles,when track follows it. Cattle zeriba on L. bank ¾ mile away.Country is open grass plain, except close to mouth of khor where itis wooded, and a few patches of scrub here and there along thebanks.
16¾
17¾Cattle zeriba Beia onR. bank. Khor bends off and is joined again at 9¾ miles, from whereit makes a big bend southwards, and is not seen again tillRengachuk is passed.
29¾
Going so far very bad over much crackedsoil and few shade trees.
Track now runs over a rank grass plain tothe first Dinka village at
Tedao8½18¼District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad Aiwel.From here villages can be seen ahead on all sides. Few trees,practically a vast plain, intersected with depressions that in thedry seasons are hard to define, and which in the rains might beserious obstacles.
Bekjuka2½20¾Another village of Beia.
Abai-at2¼23Village of Ni-el; mostly cattlethieves.
Jokdwet1¾24¾Village of Jokdwet, of districtNi-el.
Wuntao1¾26½ „ „ „ „
2½29Fairly thick trees and bush lasting 1mile.
Rengachuk5¼34¼Village of Ni-el, of the Addora people.Consists of two portions. From here track runs down to khoragain.
2½36¾At this point the khor is of greaterdimensions than at the mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6 feet deep;choked however with long reeds and sudd.
¾37½Track here crosses a small khor, dry inJanuary.
Khor Niagweia¼37¾This is another important khor that isreported to come from the Burun country, but it was reported dry afew miles up (January, 1903). It is probably the khor shown on somemaps as “Ez Zamma,” a name which is not recognised by anyinhabitants, 60 to 100 yards wide and 4 to 5 feet deep.
Track now runs through jungle for 3miles.
Khor Adar7¾45½Khor Adar is met here again, having,since fording Khor Niagweia, been on the R. at varying distances.Track now follows it. Country here is very uninteresting, no gameand few trees, but the ever present long grass. Path meets the khorat
Raduk¼45¾Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet; trackcuts across a bend and meets khor at
Gwatan3¼49Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people mostlywanted by the police, and who have retired to a safe distance. Khorclose on L.
2¼51¼Track crosses a khor that is dry 100yards up.
Many elephant tracks on edge of khor, butmade in the rains. From here a track exists through a country ofunburnt elephant grass, the actual ground being well-nighimpassable, being ploughed up by elephants, and overgrown with atangle of vegetation, through which nothing but fire or elephantscould make a path. Looking from the top of an high ant-heap, thecountry is seen to be more wooded inland.
Khor Benatat758¼Is said to join Khor Adar about 7 milesup. Dinkas also state that two other khors joins Khor Adar ahead,one from S. Khor Aturuk, and one from N. Khor Fao-eng.
From here to the Nuer country isvariously described as being from 2 to 5 days.

46.—J. JEROK, viâ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA (about 52 miles S.E. of Melut).

By Major G. de H. Smith, May 1904.

N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its possibly being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the White Nile at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil and the water supply is at present very uncertain. It would no doubt be difficult during the rainy season.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
J. Jerok——Site of MilitaryPost. From here route to J. Maiak is that taken by the Wad Mahmudexpedition in February, 1904. Water in pools in Khor Ahmar1½ miles before reaching this hill.
J. Maiak1919
J. Eri1130Pond of rain-water, very uncertain, about1½ miles from the hill.
Villages of Gum Gum people939About 7 miles from Eri, a khor withrain-water (May) is crossed, and further on, the villages of GumGum people are reached. They drink from pools to the east of KhorGemmeiza and, at certain seasons, from rain pools about 1 mile W.of villages.
K. Gemmeiza847Water in pool inkhor. A rain pool is passed about 4 miles further on, and thevillages of Burun from Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are reached.
Kilwega754
Sami (K. Gemmeiza)1064K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very windingbed, a mile or two to the south of and parallel to the track. Apath has been cut to a watering place in the khor, called Sami.Past old burnt village of Kurara Buruns, who now occupy village onnew road-cultivation here, and water used by people from J. Ulu indry season. Khor very narrow and covered up with willows; on bothsides are swamps. Khor losing traces of sand. Two water holes herecould be much improved.
From Sami, track cut along high ground untilUlu track is met, going to
Khamiret El Tin1478Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles off. Thisis a good track and much used but very tortuous, and follows alongridge of high ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, a track from Ulu toUm Adil on Khor Sami is crossed; this is apparently called Um Ebeilon Pruyssenaere’s route.
About one hour from Khamiret El Tin,track leaves khor and goes along a depression in which, later on,the 7 Hafiras of Khamiret El Tin village are. These areroofed-in ponds of marsh water and zeribaed to prevent animals,etc., drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of these now full ofwater.
Khamiret El Kurda684There are two water holes in Khor Sida,which is the same as Khor Sami, S.W. of village and used by somepeople who live there. This is better water. From here 6 miles offis Khamiret El Kurda; people from here now drink at Kumara HelletBishara. These villages are under Sheikh Ata Mannan.
Kumara Hellet Bishara791Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as alsohere, goes into Farashes and is apparently lost.
Hellet Bitter12103From here, 12 miles, general directionS., is Hellet Bitter; water not obtainable here all the year round;people drink at Bishara, etc., according to time of year.
Hellet Banjom6109No water here at present; road badgoing.
Wad Deluka14123About 14 miles off, in S.W. direction.Water here in two wells, one has fallen in.
Melut52 (?)175 (?)On the White Nile.

47.—URYONG on the SOBAT to the WHITE NILE opposite KODOK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Uryong——Uryong is a small Dinka village on theright bank. From this point there is a much used short cut straightacross to Kodok. The road from Uryong as far as the beginning ofthe Dunjol villages must be almost entirely under water at highNile, but even then the Dinkas can find the track, which is markedhere and there by small mud heaps. In the dry season from Uryong toDunjol is generally traversed by night, as there is no waterobtainable till the Dunjol wells are reached. From Uryong the roadtraverses open marsh land for about 2½ miles and then enters a beltof thick white thorn about 3 miles wide. After this the countrygets more and more bare, and for the last half of the way to Dunjolthere are no trees at all.
Dunjol3131At Dunjol there are a number of Dinkavillages which stretch north along a very shallow khor, in whichwells are sunk some 30 feet deep in the black clay. They arerevetted with grass.
Village940The tree belt nearthe Nile is visible from these villages, and there are many pathsleading off it. After following the line of the khor for about 5miles, the road strikes off towards the Nile and passes through avillage which draws its water from the Nile, then it turns northagain and passes through another village before descending into themarsh ground flooded at high Nile.
Village646
Opposite Kodok248The road from Dunjol to this last villageis sandy, and would probably be generally dry.

[20]For description, vide Part I, [ p. 119.]

[21]In 1904, there was a small village and well at J. Mazmum.

[22]A road has been cut (1904) direct from Agadi to Gule.

[23]A good deal, if not all, of this wad has been cleared (1904).

CHAPTER VI.

(SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)

48.—NASSER to URYONG.[24]

By Major Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O., February, 1901.

There is a good road in the dry season from Nasser down the Sobat.

Practically no supplies can be obtained from natives, but guinea fowl are common and gazelle can generally be shot. There are generally plenty of trees and bush as far as Nyakwoik, but after entering the Dinka country the only trees which are seen are a few grown in the villages for shade. The Dinkas carry charcoal long distances for fuel.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Right bank, opposite Nasser——Starting on right bank, opposite Nasser,the following villages were passed on the north bank:—
Tawba99⎫
⎬
⎭		Small Nuer villages.
Nyakwoik312
Gau315
Shillup (1st camp)1½16½From this point a waterless road strikesstraight to Fashoda, 3 days’ march for natives.
Ford Kofiat (Sheikh Akol)218½At Kofiat the river wasforded. About 3 feet deep and 200 yards wide. Exit on south bankbad, but bottom firm and good. The road on the north bank was saidto be overgrown, and there was little sign of inhabitants on thesouth bank; cutting across a large bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel,and Nyandeng; the latter is a small village near a dry shallowdrainage khor. Thick bush and bad mosquitoes.
Nyanlang3½22
Fauwel½22½
Nyandeng (2nd camp)325½
Minchom2¼27¾Thence cutting another bendthrough Minchom, striking the river again at Twednyang.
Twednyang2¾30½
Ashol½31Thence striking across bendthrough Ashol, to Abong, thence to Patiyam, which is the last Nuervillage; now enter the Nyuak district of Amol.
Abong1½32½
Patiyam1½34
Gehinyar337The first Nyuak village, on the riverbank.
Reitsum2¾39¾Thence following the riverthrough dry marsh, strike across bend through Fedwil.
Malwal (3rd camp)3¼43
Fedwil1¼44¼Sheikh Gwat’s.
Bwoilbang¾45To Bwoilbang.
Wegin247At Wegin reach river again oppositemarshy island and keep along bank.
Shwai249Leave river again at Shwai,and thence to Fatiwanyang, the residence of Sheik Aiwel, who isvery friendly to the Government. There are a number of elephantnear his village. Leave the river and skirt a swampy district. Somecattle.
Fatiwanyang3¾52¾
Yakwoik5½58¼Yakwoik is a few miles upstream of Major Austin’s base camp, which however was not seen.From here strike across a big bend; no water obtainable till riveris reached again, after a march of 12 miles. All trees cease nearWangnait, which is the 1st Dinka village, and is one of a largegroup of villages.
4th camp1¼59½
Wangnait (5th camp), Sheikh Bang1776½
Gobtoing379½Thence cutting across a series of smallbends to Gobtoing; thence to
Tubu382½Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to
Adong3½86Adong,
Dud1½87½Dud, and
Uryong2½90Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is Sheikha ofUryong.
Ford (6th camp)1½91½There is a ford 1 mile below here.Village at the head of the island, crossing 4 feet deep.
Uryong½92On the opposite bank is the 2nd villageof Uryong, from which runs the direct road to Kodok (48 miles),vide [Route 47.]

49.—GOKJAK to KEIK.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, April and May, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gokjak——Small compact villageon left bank of Sobat, good dry banks, few trees. Track from Gokjakruns over open plain, very bad going, black cotton soil; largecracks in ground, making it difficult for transport animals. Khor100 yards wide, running parallel to river, dry in April; trackcontinuous over open grass plain, mostly burnt in dry season, andno trees except one or two solitary ones to
1½1½
Shol Ajik78½Small Dinka village on right bank of KhorFilus, which runs from here to its mouth (10 miles from mouth ofSobat); khor dried up into pools, water muddy; few trees invillage, also Sheikh’s tomb with huge elephant tusk. The tracks runon to M’Yolga; inland track the better, alternative track followsand passes under large trees for 3 miles; track bad to
M’Yolga8½17Long straggling Dinkavillages on Khor Filus, water in pools, fair; many water-fowl.Sheikhs Ayung Yor and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds about the endof M’Yolga district. Two small villages on khor, and 2 milesfurther on enters bush of red talh, which leaves and crosses grassplain after 1½ miles, and rejoins khor 3 miles further on.Water available, banks of khor thickly wooded with thornbush; a few good trees.
421
728Small ferik, or cattle village, in dryseason. These feriks are all same type, dome-shaped grass tukls,with open spaces with pegs for picketing cattle, &c. Some havezeribas.
Gekrek331Name of locality; good camping ground onleft of khor, which is easily crossed in dry season; 2 feet ofwater covered with matted weeds, water fair; ground graduallybecoming more wooded; heglig and gemmeiza.
Adodit2¼33¼Name of locality; khor twists aboutconsiderably; track cuts across a corner here, and joins khor againafter 2 miles, and continues to
Biar6½39¾Name of locality; country between M’Yolgaand Nerol uninhabited, being a “no man’s land” between Dinkas andNuers; men of one tribe crossing to territory of other tribe do notreturn as a rule.
443¾Small khor, merely draining few miles oflowlying land in rains.
Fan Yanglwel2¼46Name of locality;thickly wooded, with high knolls, good camping ground, water muddy.From here run two tracks; one to Nerol, along the khor; a secondacross country to Riul. Latter track crosses khor Fanyanglwel andruns along left bank of khor for 3 miles, passing one ferik at 47thmile, and then cuts across an open plain with few scattered trees,and meets Khor Filus at Riul.
147
The former track runs through beautifulcountry along bank of Khor Filus; thickly wooded, waterfowl inabundance, also harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a little water inplaces, in the khor, under matted reeds. Khor very winding to Nerol(9 miles). Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor; fine sheet of water(some 2 miles long in places) 50 to 60 yards wide, and in placesdeep; good colour and taste. Village of Nerol about 6 miles duesouth, according to guides; at bend of Khor Filus, at mile 10, KhorChirol or Nerol flows in, said to flow from Nyang Deng on Sobat,near Nasser, 30 to 40 yards wide, nearly dry (April). Track nowruns along khor straight to Riul, 5½ miles further on.
Riul6¾53¾A cattle ferik on right bank of khor,village proper lies two miles inland due south, behind thick beltof trees.
Tut2¼56Cattle ferik undergood shady trees, village proper inland behind trees; good campingground; thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of track; good pool ofwater in khor, 400 yards from camp, which is on rising ground, notrees for shade.
2¼58¼
Meinom2¼60½Cattle ferik, and village inland isvisible.
161½Another large cattleferik, also rest of Meinom village proper visible inland; track nowruns straight for 7 miles, passing feriks of Riang and Reir on the way to smallkhor; country thickly wooded on left of track, thinly onright.
768½
Fading3½72Important scatteredNuer village in trees on right of khor; large pool of water,surrounded towards its northern end by ambach swamp, many andvaried waterfowl; a track runs from here to large village ofFalliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in forest; water fair at Fading;cattle ferik and pool, with ambach fringe round edge, waterbad.
1½73½
Fatowel477½Three cattle feriks of this name on khor;several pools of stagnant water; track crosses open plain 1 milewide, and then for 7 miles runs through forest of Inderab, alongbed of khor, crossing and re-crossing it, forest then thins out,and next 4 miles is over grass plain to
Shit12½90Large cattle feriks, village proper 2miles away S.W. on left bank of khor; large pool of very foulstagnant water. No other water nearer than 3 miles fit to drink.Ambach swamp round water, waterfowl plentiful.
393Track runs 3 miles across open grassplain, over good sandy track, and enters this red talh bush, whichgives place shortly to thin forest of heglig; large trees.
Fulnob396Long straggling village on left of track,fair amount of dura cultivation.
Dwok4½100½A very large scattered village, wellbuilt tukls; cattle tukls being particularly fine; most of theseNuer villages are built in thin forest, making it impossible toestimate their full extent without penetrating long distances intothe woods.
Amwot-el-Sogheir4½105Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or threeshallow muddy wells; few trees; track now runs across Amwot plain,thickly populated; tukls in groups; probably homesteads every fewhundred yards for 4 miles to the wells.
Wells of Amwot-el-Sogheir4109Dug on sandy bank of a large shallowkhor; khor dry in April. Banks lined with um suf; cattle ferik onedge of khor; wells 12 in number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2 feet 6inches in diameter; fairly thick forest of abu hemeira and treescalled soba and leun. Leaving Amwot wells, track enters thickforest, which extends for 2 miles, then continues over plain foranother 2 miles, finally runs through very thin forest to
Keik6½115½Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur; incentre of village is a cone, built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high, seenat least 3 miles off, surmounted with elephants’ tusks, and a hugespike like a lightning conductor; base of cone on east sidesplanted with elephants’ tusks, with points turned outwards.
Fair amount of dura cultivation; beyondvillage of Keik, to N.E. and S., is a vast open plain with notrees; no wells or other water found; ground is fairly high andpresumably healthy.
Shit—90From Shit, which is 90 miles fromGokjak, a track runs almost due south, crossing Khor Filus; goodgoing.
1½91½Village proper of Shit about 1 mile awayon left bank of khor in thick trees.
1½93Group of 6wells dug in bed of khor; cattle ferik on right bank ofkhor; cattle watered from these wells; water when drawn up pouredinto shallow circular troughs of puddled sand and mud, to enablecattle to drink. Another similar group of wells; trackbranches off to right, to small village, part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½miles distant. Track now runs along bed of khor.
194
195
Amwot-el-Kebir3¼98½Filus, to beginningof Amwot-el-Kebir, in line of trees running north and south; tracknow descends across plain and crosses khor to main portion ofvillage. Villages of great extent, part built in plain, but greaterpart (impossible to estimate) built in woods; tukls well built andvery numerous; much dura cultivation; group of wells.
3½101½

Note.—No local Nuer guides can be obtained for any of the above country from M’Yolga to Keik, owing to the active hostility of Nuers. The only men who know the general lie of the country are Dinkas who have been slaves of Nuers, or who lived in this country before Nuers seized it. They can be obtained at M’Yolga, but, at the best, are not reliable as regards water or distances.

50.—Itinerary up the BAHR EL ZERAF.

By Major Stanton, October, 1898—Additions by Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
——On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, thecurrent is strong[25]—3 miles an hour—the depth 20 feet, andchannel narrow at first; opens out from 30 yards to 80 yards acouple of miles up. Water is clear, and of a dark brown tinge.Jebel el Zeraf lies away to the south-east on R. bank 5 miles off;there are four distinct hills, all of volcanic rock, covered withbush. A broad open plain, marsh near the river, extends to the footof these hills R., while L. is wooded and scrub—open plain behind;here hippopotami, elephant, giraffe, water-buck, and reed-buck havebeen seen.
5½5½Grass plain both banks, with a little lowscrub L. From here on to 30, flat marshy plain both banks.
24½30Wood obtainable; some large trees L.bank, dry marsh R.
535Bush commences both banks; river bendsbackwards and forwards, banks wet and marshy, and landingdifficult. This continues till 60.
1045Dry place L.
1560Large open maya L. Water runs inland somedistance. River continues to make loops and bends; channel 80 to100 yards broad.
1070Scrub ceases both banks, boundless marshextending to horizon opens up; several large sheets of open waterare passed.
878Farthest point reached by Major Peake,5.10.98. Egyptian flag hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from mouth ofriver. River 80 yards wide; current 2 miles per hour.
Kuchuk Ali (?)280River bends about a great deal; some ofthe curves are very sharp; patches of open water each side atintervals; open marsh both sides with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twentyhours’ steam from mouth.
282Solitary small Dom palm passed on R.
385Clump of thick small trees R. in 3 feetof water close to channel; thousands of divers build in these trees(October, 1898). Wood for steamers could be cut here, but with somedifficulty, unless the water falls; scrub begins first beyond hereon L. bank. R. continues open.
1297Large sheet of open water or maya about 1mile away R.; bush on horizon beyond.
3100Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees onhorizon west L.
Gauer (?)10110Scattered Nuer houses seen on horizon 6miles away L.; village 2 miles farther on under trees believed tobe village of Gauer. Open plain R. Small clump of trees in water at107, where wood could be obtained if necessary. Shallows sometimesto 4 feet; generally 10 feet.
10120Trees close to channel L.; open patchesof water.
2122Maya and stream comes in L.; this leavesthe proper channel at 130 higher up, and cuts across a cornerdirect.
5127Thick trees L. and clump of trees R., allin water (October); sharp turn west.
3130Channel turns again S. Maya and streamcome in L. Solitary palm visible S. R. bank open marsh, bush endsL.
5135Solitary Dom palm passed on edge ofchannel L., marsh both banks, trees and scrub begin again L.
5140River bends west. Dom palms visiblewest.
4144Sparkes’ farthest point in steamer:aground.
Kuchuk Ali4148“Lotus” River comes in R.; channel 50yards, covered with large “Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station herejust inside the mouth of “Lotus” River, where dry land can bereached by steamer. Wood extends back in water for 2 or 3 miles,but sufficient can be cut on dry ground. This is the last placewhere steamers can wood, as all other wood seen, being either Domor Deleib palm, is useless for fuel. “Lotus” River dried up inMarch.
Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom palms; openwater seen N.W. From here on the channel goes through numerouslagoons; the water appears slightly discoloured by mud; the streamincreases in strength, and the channel in width.
3151Sharp bend S.; large volume of waterflows out of channel into marsh N., and makes open mayas seen about1 to 1½ miles away. Dom palms, close to river, dry ground 1 milefarther on L., thick Dom palms; channel 100 to 150 yards broad,numerous lagoons. Scrub and wood 1 mile away R.
Kuek8159Small village on edge of lagoons, largerone behind under Dom palms, known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, andfriendly. Egyptian flag left here with them; natives frightened bysteamer, but reassured afterwards. After passing their village theregular channel gets lost as it flows to the west of clump of Dombehind Kuek, where it gets blocked by sudd, the water finding itsway through the marsh and lagoons. The “Abu Klea” continued(October, 1898) in a southerly direction, and after crossing alagoon 11 feet deep, which shallowed down to 4 feet, the mainchannel again struck, 18 feet deep.
Wayo——Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar, closeby. No Dinkas round this way. Left here by a narrow passage throughthe reeds, and joined what is evidently the main river, 80 to 100yards broad and very deep channel. It comes in from other side ofvillages, and natives say it is blocked by sudd lower down. Thischannel through which neither steamer or gyassa could get isevidently that mentioned by Peake, between 150 and 160 miles, whichhe went through, and which was only 5 feet deep. It is now justover 2 feet deep.
Mogren el Buhur Zeraf3161Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One channelcomes in from S.E., which ends 6 miles up in a large open lake 9feet deep, and with numerous villages scattered about on bits ofdry ground surrounded by a sea of marsh and sudd.
The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be only afew hours in a canoe (about 6) through the reeds in westerlydirection. It is stated to be blocked N. of this point.
The second channel comes in from asoutherly direction going up-stream, after bending a good deal,passes an old tree like an English elm near two small villages, andflows close by large village of Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; SultanDiu, the head of the Nuers in this locality, resides here. Largeclump of Deleib palms, 500 yards from channel.
Ajiung Lake14175Ajiung village R. Large village underDeleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N. (approximate). Large straggling lake;sudd S., S.W., and S.E.
13188[26]Channel goes on another 13 miles, thenends in 3 feet of water on large sudd-covered lake. A large mayagoes off N.E., which is declared closed about 5 miles up; thiswater probably forms the River “Lotus” farther down. If it isintended to go from the Bahr el Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel, nativesshould be got from Ajiung to direct the course, which lies entirelythrough patches of sudd and open water. The direction marked on themap should be somewhat more towards the north. The channel atAjiung, which is broad and deep, soon narrows, and current becomesless as the head is reached, clearly showing that a great deal ofthe water in the channel at Ajiung flows through the reeds andsudd, where the depth appears to be about 4 feet. The whole countryS. and S.W. of Ajiung appears to be one vast sudd-covered lagoonthrough which the waters forming the Bahr el Zeraf flow until themain channel is formed; pieces of sudd measuring 40 yards by 30were met after a severe storm in the western branch. Such pieces ofsudd are liable at any time to block the present channel and causea fresh one to open out.

[24]Vide also [Route 134,] Goré to Abwong, Appendix.

[25]Even in March.

[26]Major G. E. Matthews steamed up about 30 miles beyond this point in August, 1904, but was then stopped by sudd.

CHAPTER VII.

(BAHR EL GHAZAL.)

51.—MESHRA EL REK to TONJ.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, January, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Meshra El Rek——Leaving the Nuzl, the track crosses akhor some 15 feet deep, by a bridge partly under water. After 100yards bridge ends and you wade waist deep for 3 miles.
Camp3½3½Always dry, but mosquitoes very bad. Goodwater all the year round. Very bad track leading due S. betweengrass 7 feet high. Ground much cut up by cattle passing in therains.
Unangarp7½11A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N.boundary of Lau district. Head Sheikh Kwitol.
Manashin213Water holes, which are said never to dryup completely, situated on W. of track. Good camp, well marked by adeleib growing out of centre of gemmeiza tree on track. Nosupplies.
Track continues nearly due S., winds agreat deal, and much cut up. Bad going for man and beast.
War Lai6¾19¾A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It issaid never to dry up; 300 by 200 yards. Fair drinking water.Animals easily watered by digging trenches.
Fulbar625¾Road through an open forest, grass latelyburnt. Track better, but much broken in places by old elephanttracks. Fulbar is a large swamp, said never to dry up. Manyelephant tracks. Good water.
Leaving the pool, the track joins themain road a mile on. Fair track.
Amangnok732¾A large swamp, good water, lasts all theyear, on W. of track, which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, passing thevillage of Sheikh Angong Marial.
Mana Alangjok——A large Dinka cattle enclosure,well-known throughout this district.
War Gel739¾Pools in a swamp. Water said to last allthe year. Bad shade. Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s house is passedon the N. of the road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s village over amile long is left to the W.
Haleik746¾A swamp, left to W. of road, water saidto last all the year. Track generally good, but cut up by elephantsin places. Sheikh Wal Mabior’s village is entered 2 miles fromAteim swamp.
Wal Mabior’s, or Ateim551¾A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ milesfrom N. to S. Very good and plentiful water.
Mowok253¾A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very goodtrack through open country. Heglig trees and little bush.
Mabior Dod’s255¾Large swamps. Good water; called Katoi.Fair shade. Good track through rather open and perfectly levelcountry. Soil sandy in places.
Again Well, Ewal Gor’s560¾Small water holes, little water. There isa good deal of cultivation about, and Dinka huts every few hundredyards.
Sheikh Bak Bong Yep’s464¾Four bad and one good water holes. Latterknown as Abaing, after a small tree near it; watered 200 meneasily. The four other holes just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fairshade. Obtained some dura.
Teing Teing well165¾One fair well, or rather hole; water for30 or 40 men. Good going on the whole.
“Dug-Dug” (ruins)469¾Site of an old cattle enclosure, markedby some mounds of earth and some usher bushes.
Atubbu1180¾One water hole; dirty water, but enoughto give 200 men a drink.
Aweid282¾A small swamp, but plenty of fair water.Fair shade under heglig trees. Track passes across an open plaincovered with grass, which in places is 10 feet high. Few trees, buttrees of the Tonj valley seen in the distance to the S. Bad goingfor first 3 miles, then very good.
Atang’s (N. end)4¼87The direct road toTonj Post leads to the W.S.W. Another, down a khor, in which areseveral water-holes strikes the River Tonj. Small camp on leftbank. The river bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet deep. Water 25yards wide and 18 inches deep. Good water; sandy bottom. Nomosquitoes.
R. Tonj390
Leaving the river the track for 3 milesgoes through long grass, then crosses a plain; grass at first, thencovered with grass and bush.
Abuior Sheikh Maton’s and WarRual999A small water hole (War Rual) on W. oftrack at N. end of Sheikh Matoin’s village (Abui). There are a fewmore wells to the W., but the best water is a mile to the E. in aswamp. Good shade near road.
War Tit2101A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry. There isa small water hole near the road.
Very good track through bush, with manylarge trees, until within a mile of the river, when a belt offorest is entered.
Tonj River Post5106

A great part of the above road is under water during the rains, and only passable to carriers.

52.—WAU to MESHRA EL REK.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
The following is the Government route andis used by all convoys:—
Wau——Crossing the river Jur, the track entershigh grass for a mile until the E. side of the valley is reached.Then thick bush and ironstone ridges.
Sheikh Malwal’s new village(Jur)44Rest house and well 150 yards S. oftrack. Track continues over ironstone ridges, but bush is much moreopen near the track.
P. Rumbashia5¾9¾A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards; 3 feet6 inches deep when full; now contains 18 inches water. Haltingplace for bull transport. A quarter-mile on there are 3 more smallpools in the rock.
Sheikh Malwal’s old village(Jur)1¼11Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2 tukls, 1shelter, and good well. Water trough. Bush now becomes thick; manydeserted villages passed.
Sheikh Moyen’s (Dinka)1223So called, but he has now moved some wayN. of the road, rest house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1 rekuba. Wellwith good water. The ironstone formation is left.
Track over level plain, now dry andcovered with high grass, would be very wet in rains. A few Dinkahouses are seen, many deserted ones passed.
Water hole9½32½Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, good,but much discoloured water. Used by Aiyum’s people.
Sheikh Aiyum’s (Dinka)2½35Extensive Dinka village chiefly N. ofroad. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2 shelters, and large tukl for the bulltransport.
Open grass-covered plain with scatteredtrees. Swampy in rains. Mosquitoes troublesome.
Bir El Jaalin (Arab), Malau(Dinka)742Old wells in clump of deleib palms, siteof old village.
Deleiba850Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well; watergave out after 30 men had drawn their water, but well refillsquickly. Many deleib palms. Mosquitoes.
Track winds to avoid the bush, which isthick some 200 yards away from the track W.
“Dug-Dug”555Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3 tukls and 2good wells.
Track again winds about to avoid thethick bush. Very thick grass in places.
Bir El Gurud661Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells (one nowdry), 8 feet deep. Good, but muddy water. After passing through abelt of bush 300 yards wide the country becomes perfectly flat andopen. Covered with high grass and scattered trees. Little bushanywhere. The going is bad as the track from here to Meshra. ismostly under water during the rains.
Old wells near single deleibpalm7½68½Could not obtain name. A well-known placeand site of old Dinka village.
Sheikh Gadein’s3½72So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief man. Alarge village. Rest house, 2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good water fromwells. Depôt for bull transport. Road and country as before.
Gemmeiza tree981Well-known halting place, as there is apool 50 yards in diameter which holds water for some 6 or 8 weeksafter the rains.
Rest house W. end of Sheikh Mayik’svillage687Two tukls and shelter under gemmeizatree. Wells dry 13th March, 1904. Route winds much through thevillage.
Rest house E. end of Sheikh Mayik’svillage (Dinka)5½92½Two tukls, 1 shelter under a singledeleib palm. One well 15 feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3 feet ofgood clear water. No people seen; they are said to have gone downto the river with their cattle.
Country good, level, and open as before;but track somewhat better.
Three miles from the rest house there isa water hole 50 yards S. of track near a small deleib palm, 8 feetdeep, 10 feet in diameter; good water.
Sheikh Madal’s (Dinka)9101½Rest house at W. end of village; 3 goodtukls, 1 shelter, good well. Dinka name of well Atien ful. Thenative houses are chiefly on the N. side of the wood and ½ a mileaway.
War Kul4¾106¼(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10 yards.Good water situated in a swamp now dry. There is a clump of bush onhigher ground 100 yards N., which would be a dry spot for acamp.
Sheikh Amien’s (Dinka)1¾108Rest house. Two tukls and well, at W. endof village which is scattered along the route for 3 miles. Road hasbeen cleared in the village and ruts caused by traffic in rainsfilled up. The going then becomes bad. Black soil; grass, and a fewscattered trees. Three miles from Meshra, high grass and a swamp isentered. Going very bad and water waist-deep in places. Close tothe Nuzl a khor is crossed by a bridge, but it is now 2 feet 6inches under water.
Meshra El Rek11119

53.—TONJ POST to WAU.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
The whole of this road is over ironstoneridges, except where it is crossed by khors. The going is good andin many places the bush has been cleared. It is proposed to clear aroute from Tonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, andthence follow this route to Wau.
There was sufficient water everywhere inFebruary, 1904, along this route for 300 men and 100 mules.
Tonj Post——The route follows the left bank of theriver Ba, at first, to Morgan Bongo’s house, and thence bearsslightly N. of W. Good track, but thick bush, and grass on both sides until within amile of Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is entered.
Sheikh Aiidu’s1010A small Jur village, to W. of which isthe rest house; 2 good tukls. Good water from wells.
Track continues through thick bush andgrass, crossing some grass covered swamps, now dry. Ironstone, goodgoing. A mile from the next rest house the track descends a steepbank, 81 feet high, and crosses a small khor.
River house at River Mulmul8½18½On right bank. One good hut, but littleshade near. Water from pools in bed of river. The track now crossesthe valley of the River Mulmul, which is flat, covered with thickgrass, and very swampy in the rains. There is a khor on the leftbank of valley, and some wells 2 feet deep. Good and plentifulwater. Route passes through Sheikh Agan’s village and over a stonyridge to the rest house.
Rest house, Sheikh Agan’s(Jur)4½23The village is called Mudi. Two goodtukls. Water from wells in River Mulmul.
Good track, but much high grass.
Sheikh Arum’s (Bilanda)3½26½A small village with little cultivation.Two tukls for rest house. Road now winds a good deal through highgrass and bush, and crosses several places that are swampy in therains.
Sheikh Akuong (Jur)6½33Rest house of 2 tukls and a rekuba; waterfrom well.
Munga well2½35½There is a small rekuba on N. of road.The wells are 300 yards S., and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep with2 feet of good water, which flows in quickly. Full of frogs.Immediately beyond cultivation and the village commence.
Sheikh Kangor’s1½37Rest house is at N. end of village. Fourtukls, water from Manga well. Bush and high grass. Route crossesone place that must be very wet in the rains.
Kawagana3½40½A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards, and 2feet 6 inches deep. Good clean water, said to last all the year.Rain water; no spring. Two tukls, bush thick. The direct road fromTonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas, comes in here.
Khor444½300 yards wide and 30 feet deep,ironstone sides; no water. Only 80 yards show signs of being swampyin the rains. Track crosses another khor and then ascends a ridge(60 feet) which it follows for 2 miles and then descends into KhorMbili, where there is a rest house with ghafir.
Rest house in Khor Mbili448½Three tukls. Water from wells in khor.Road has been cleared for 2 miles on each side.
Khor Tala351½20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, bridged.Route now ascends an ironstone ridge for a mile and then windsround it. Wide valley to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼ miles fromnext rest-house there is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad going. Thetrack then crosses greyish soil for a mile and again passes overironstone rock.
Rest house, “The Deleib’s”960½Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib palmsabout. Good water from wells. For the next 3 miles there is thickbush. The grassy valley of the Khor Abongo is then struck.
Khor Abongo464½Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10 feetdeep, bridged. The river Jur is now to the W. of the track whichfollows its right bank, between the high grass which covers thevalley and an ironstone ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered with verythick bush. Wau is seen on the left bank.
East of Wau the track crosses the valley(1 mile wide) through very high grass. The river Jur here is on theW. side of the valley, 100 yards wide with banks from 15 to 20 feethigh. On 3rd February, 1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches water in theford. Sandy bottom.
Wau5½70

54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE.

By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
There is no obstacle on this route to themovement of men, mules or donkeys, during the dry season. But avery little rain would make many of the khors impassable toanimals. The river Ba during the rains would have to be crossed inboats. There was ample water for 500 men and 300 mules or donkeys.The route lies chiefly over ironstone rock, with black alluvialsoil in and near the khors.
Tonj River Post——Leaving the fort the road follows theleft bank of the river Ba; good track.
Khor3320 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy bottom,if not bridged would be a serious obstacle. Track skirts theforest.
River Ba36The actual valley is 1½ miles wide,alluvial soil covered with grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry. Theriver channel 75 yards wide, 12 feet deep, and has been bank fullof water this year. Water in January 30 yards wide, 20 inches deep,sandy bottom. No difficulty in ascending banks.
There is now a slight track only. Theroute followed the edge of the forest on the right bank of theriver Ba. Good going, but the khors running into the river would bedifficult after rain. Water for drinking obtained from khors.
13th mile713Route leaves valley of river Ba andfollows the right bank of Khor Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to1000 yards from route which followed the edge of the forest. Bushseldom very thick, but grass troublesome in places.
Pool Dam Lkobo20½33½Route crosses to left bank of Khor Sunni20 feet deep, 3 yards wide at bottom, 25 yards wide at top; runningwater 6 inches deep.
Pool Gutti235½Large pool in khor, said never to dry up.Guide was not very sure of name, but place unmistakable. Bareironstone running from edge of forest to khor. Running water nowceases and the only water is in pools.
Route crosses several shallow but widekhors full of elephant tracks; high grass.
Da Kobi1247½(Called by another guide, Akkuir). Da =pool in Bongo. Dirty water but quite drinkable.
Pool Dormunga6½54Pool 100 yards long in khor, very goodwater. Good shade near; road crosses several ironstone ridges andsome low ground now dry, but would be very swampy in rains.
Pool Higoli7½61½Pool in khor. Good water. Good going butthick bush.
Pool Kunga44¾66¼Pool in a khor running into Khor Sunni,80 yards in diameter, good clean water. Said always to containwater.
Minobolo4¾71Two miles before reaching Minobolo, twodeleib palms are seen and the track crosses a small khor. For 1½miles this khor contains a succession of pools. Minobolo is thesite of an old slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet above khor. Watersaid to last all the year.
The route follows the Khor Sunni,crossing it twice and passing several small pools.
Pool Riggu879In the midst of many deleib palms, goodwater. Much game about. This is the last pool on the KhorSunni.
The country now rises slowly until theroute passes between two red ironstone hills (rising 100 feet abovethe track) covered with bush. The route then descends and entersthe valley of the Khor Takor which flows S.W. to the river Ba.
Toko5½84½Pool of good water; said to last all theyear.
Da Higi2½87Pool of good water; said to last all theyear. Site of old Bongo village. Route now follows right bank. Goodgoing.
Ungulu2¼89¼Pool in khor; drying up rapidly inFebruary. Route crosses to left bank, and a mile on there is alarge grey granite rock 30 feet high, 50 yards in diameter.
Mungola2¾93Pool in khor; said never to dry up. Goodwater; some bad going due to elephant tracks.
Dih396Several large pools which are said neverto dry up. Good shade.
From here to Higola pool there are tworoutes, an eastern and a western. The former is the better goingbut the latter has more water on it.
WESTERN ROUTE.
Follows the Khor Takor for 2 miles, thenturns S., crosses the Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and half amile on enters valley of the Khor Biuku, which flows northwards andwestwards to River Ba; much bush and grass. Three miles fromNgomala, route crosses khor; rocky ground, bad going. After 7miles, Angaga, a pool in Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said to bedry up; much high grass. A mile S., route again crosses the khorand ascends an ironstone ridge, which it follows for 5 miles; goodgoing; to Higola 5½ miles, a pool fed by a spring, situated on E.side of ridge in the Khor Todor.
EASTERN ROUTE.
Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½ miles, thenturns lightly W. of S.
Khor Teih2½98½Now nearly dry. One or two small dirtypools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep, steep banks. Flows W. toRiver Ba. A mile and a half on the Khor Todor is seen E. of routewhich follows the left bank to Higola. Good going skirting thebush. Valley of khor full of high grass. The Khor Todor flowsnorthwards into the Khor Teih.
Higola5½107Bad going for first 2 miles, ascending arocky ironstone ridge. Thick bush. Then along the level for 2miles, when the end of the ridge is reached. There is then a rapidbut easy descent of nearly 200 feet to the Khor Veitatei. Routefollowed right bank to the River Ba, but it is better to cross thekhor from 1 to 2 miles before reaching the river.
River Ba11118Forty yards wide and unfordable, withslight current E. to W.; following the bank for a mile through highgrass and crossing the Khor Veitatei the river bends S. Near alarge Bolo tree. S. of this tree is a good ford. Water 2 feet 6inches deep. Sandy bottom.
Right bank easy, left bank had to beramped. Good shade on right bank. None on left.
Route now nearly due S., through highgrass. Near River Ba for 2 miles. Then crosses a small khor withrunning water and ascends a hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River Babeing left to the eastwards.
Sheikh Toin5¼123¼Village burnt 11th February. Situated ontop of a grey sandstone hill. Water from pool in Khor Maposho, amile S. From this village to Rikta’s there is a good track. Muchbush and high grass.
Khor Maposho5¾129Track again crosses the khor. Two goodpools. Long grass and thick bushes.
Hukwar’s7136Small place. Good pools ¼ mile N.W. Burnt10th February. Track continues through high grass and bush for 4½miles to the first houses of Rikta’s village.
Khor Menza5½141½A narrow but deep khor with thicklywooded banks. Many pools both above and below track.
High grass, with clearings forcultivation: dura, telibun and maize (very little).
Khor Nabazibi¾142¼A large khor, with thickly wooded banks.Many pools of good water, both above and below track. Was bridgedby Rikta, but bridge burnt. There must be 7 feet of water in thekhor at times. The width varies from 30 to 60 yards wide, the morenarrow portions being between ironstone rock.
Rikta’s——The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th February,1904) was 250 yards from the bridge. The village was scatteredalong the higher ground on both banks of the Khor Nabazibi. Exceptwhere cleared for cultivation, the country is covered withscattered trees and high grass.

55.—WAU TO TEMBURA.

By Captain A. B. Bethel, R.A., August, 1904.

Water, etc.In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using it.

Transport.In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this road in the wet season.

Track and country.The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Wau——
River Wau4—Good ford in dry season, about 2·6 to 3feet deep.
Sheikh Kwol’s village (Resthouse)10143 rest houses, well in village, river 2miles away.
Zeriba Kutsuk Ali3172 small wells close to Zeriba.
Khor Kossukali (Rest house)12292 rest houses.
Khor Abera (Rest house)5342 rest houses, water all the year.
Khor Tela (Rest house)7412 rest houses.
Khor Borda950Water said to be in a pool here all theyear.
Khor Nyeka (Rest house)9592 rest houses.
Khor Gumbala (Rest house)10692 rest houses, water said to be in poolsall the year.
Khor Gullamba (Rest house)11801 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet deep inwet season, water probably all the year. Rest house.
Khor Gomereh383
Khor Deboka and Sheikh Ali’sBabai (Rest house)1699Deep khor, water all the year, Tukls inold village still intact. 2 rest houses.
River Bo (Rest house)121112 rest houses, easily crossed in dryseason; boat necessary in wet season, as it is 80 yards wide. Waterall the year.
Khor Gutti19130Water probably all the year.
Sheikh Wura’s village (Belanda)(Rest house)61362 rest houses, water all the year.
Gedi’s village (Rest house)121481 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water all theyear.
River Duma19167Bridge, water all the year.
Sheikh Bumangedi’s son’s village6173Water all the year.
River Yebbo6179Bridge, water all the year, about 15yards wide.
Tambura’s enclosure3182

56.—WAU to DEIM ZUBEIR.

Major W. A. Boulnois, April, 1901; and Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, April, 1903.

The country.All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.

Rivers.The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic.

A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors.

The track.Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.

Natives.Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim Idris.

Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.

Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a great deal at this time of year (April).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Fort Dessaix-Wau Post——Track leaves the river nearly due W.;several khors are crossed: Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa at 9miles, Khor Alfell at 10 miles.
Absaka’s new village1212Water from Well. Rakuba and hut fortraveller.
A track crosses the route at 12 milesfrom the Jur Village Nuara to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and S. AtAbsaka’s old village, at 17½ miles there is well water.
Ganna4½16½A village taking itsname from another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo villages to and atBiselli. Rest Rakuba for travellers. The old zeriba is in ruins—fewtrees are left; ½ mile further west the huts and zeribas ofGolo—Sheikh Limbo. Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N., flowing N.E.,always good.
Biselli (old zeriba)925½
The track nearly all the way so far isthoroughly thickly wooded country, much intercepted by shrubs,bushes, and branches.
Hence track goes slightly S. or W. for 4miles along right bank of Khor Gitti, passing French wooden bridgeover the khor to Village Gumsi Golo, thence W. across KhorGitti.
Khor Gombolo1035½Well giving bad waterin dry season (March to end of May). Rakuba and huts. Dry routecrossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus (native name, Ingataba), muchintercepted by bushes and trees to River Bongo—steep banks; treesclose up to river banks; marsh ½ mile broad, left bank; flowingN.E. from S. about 30 yards broad from bank to bank. Banks at lowwater (14.3.01) about 20 feet high, sandy bottom, always good clearwater in pools. Rakuba and huts. A species of Tetse fly infests thebanks of this river.
River Bongo2055½
Thence through forest country—higherground—crossing several khors, past Aboko hills at 11 miles, 1 mileN. of track, whence a view is obtained. Granite ridges about 600feet high, trees growing up to the summit. Khors Karra and Gannaflowing towards the Bongo water.
Khor Ganna13½69Water always in Khor Ganna (in well indry season). Rakuba and huts.
Several more khors are crossed. Countrygetting slightly more undulating. Several granite outcrops andboulders are passed.
Khor Gongoba6½75½Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season. Threeand a half miles further on, Khor Idris, always water (both haverakubas and huts).
Khor Raml1287½Khors Raml and Tenahold water in pools in dry season, and flow S. to Bongo. The formerhas rakuba and huts.
Khor Tena3½91
Deim Idris596Well situated on high ground (gives badwater). Now in ruins. Rakuba and huts. Small trees, jungle, andwilderness. Palisades of burnt wood poles show the outlines ofGessi’s fort. The earthworks of a battery and ruins of two houses arevisible. Two or three wells are traced, now tilled up.Three-quarters of a mile further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s fort ispassed, touching the track, and shortly after Khor Gelaba iscrossed, where once stood houses and a Suk, now wilderness.
Country more undulating, and afterpassing over a long ridge, the khors are more numerous, and flownorthwards to Kuru river. Some years nearly all hold pools ofwater in the dry season, but they are often dry.
River Kuru23119Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50 yardsfrom bank to bank, very slight current in stream, 6 feet deep. Goodwater. Rakuba and huts.
Very pretty banks with overhanging treeson both sides.
Khor Mubenga7½126½Always water. Rakuba and huts.
Khor Ghanam (flowing S. toKuru)17½144Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse-shoebend mentioned by Dr. Junker. Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15 yardsfrom bank to bank, always water in pools. Rakuba and huts.
Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments,ironstone, 100 yards W. of left bank.
Deim Zubeir6150Track follows right bank of Khor Uirirunning into Khor Ghanam for 1 mile, then rising over a ridge of 4miles drops down the W. slope, facing a valley with the E. slope ofDeim Zubeir ridge opposite. Open ground—dura fields and the fort inthe front—Khor Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼ mile E. of theFort of Deim Zubeir.

N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir.

57.—CHAK CHAK to DEIM ZUBEIR.

By Lieutenant Fell, R.N., April, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Chak Chak——Track lies nearly dueS. Very good going along broad road to village of Baraguei, on khorof same name; thence through straggling village to house of SheikhLimliffo (Kreich), 1 mile from river. Thence through forest tosmall Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on Khor Mwelli. Road difficultto follow owing to numerous elephant roads.
Khor Baraguei66
Sheikh Limliffo (Resthouse)39
Khor Mwelli, Sheikh Ramadan(Rest house)2029Good water in khor, but not very much ofit (April, 1904).
534From here, track is better defined andlies through forest to rocky khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small hillto E.
Khor Kobshum (Rest house)6½40½Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water inlarge pool and again in several pools half hour further on, 1 mileW. of rocky hill with another hill further to the E.
Khor Kobshum (Rest house)1½42From Kobshum, throughforest, to Khor Klippi. Road crosses this khor —no water, butstrikes it again after 1 mile. Water in pool. Thence throughundulating forest country, crossing many khors to Khor Agok, plentyof water, track difficult to follow owing to many elephant and gameroads. From Khor Agok, road crosses many khors, but none at present(April 13) holding water.
Khor Klippi3½45½
Khor Agok (Rest house)853½
River Chel (Rest house)861½River 100 yards wide.W. bank steep and high. Plenty of water in pools above and belowthe road; leaving Chel river track passes through slightly moreopen country to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1 mile apart.
Pools in forest2½64
River Biri (Rest house)1175Thence through thick forest over highground, passing small rocky Jebel to E. of track to River Biri.Plenty of water.
Thence track is never far from bank ofriver. Bad going for animals.
River Biri787Road joins Kossinga road at Biri River, 5miles from Deim Zubeir.
Deim Zubeir592

58.—DEIM ZUBEIR to KOSSINGA.

By Major W. A. Boulnois, 8th May, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Deim Zubeir——A track is followedN.N.W. down a spur of the ridge to River Biri, which is crossed atsome rocks in a shallow at a sharp bend, between two deep pools.Stream about 1 mile an hour (23.3.01); granite boulders in thebed—trees overhanging the banks. Banks 15 feet high, and steep,except at crossing; 40 yards bank to bank; very pretty scenery.Thence through forests, free from shrubs. Five and a-half miles onfrom the rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill Tokingaran about 6 milesW.N.W. is obtained; the track to Boko, where Zemio has an outpost,runs close under this hill.
Biri River5½5½
Half a mile further the huts of SheikhMattar (Kreich) are passed, and many deleib palms stud the countryside. The district and a hill N.E. about 10 miles are calledDeleib.
Khor Jangwi8½14Khor Jangwi is crossed running E. to Biririver, a small deep khor about 20 feet broad with pools; a grove ofdeleibs marks a good pool and camping site.
Khor Rogoko4½18½Thick forest to poolRogoko, where there is a deserted village, thence no track throughforest past Odagombo, where there is always water, running east toBiri; ruins of village on N. side, and cross Khors Aparipi andAchon to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the edge of the bank impedethe crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad; granite bed in places. It iscrossed at a regular floor of granite rocks, stretching 200 yardsdown the river and damming the stream at low water, thus making afine pool above; deep drains and khors running down to the riverfrom gradually sloping ridges, on either bank.
Khor Odagombo5½24
Sopo River1943
Kaloka2063Hence E. of N. acrossa bend of Sopo river, which is crossed at 12 miles and followed andrecrossed again at the cataract or falls of Kaloka, fine graniteboulders and a deep pool. Shortly after the river is crossed again,and the regular track from Deim Zubeir is joined at Khor Regaba, avillage of Mandallas on the left bank of Sopo river is passed.
Khor Regaba11½74½
Hill Lutu——Thence Sopo is leftgradually a few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a steep granite hillabout 500 feet high, shaped like half an egg) is passed at 7 miles.Thence an open valley across Khor Lutu where there isalways water in pools. Quarter mile further on the villageof Sultan Nasser of Telgona is reached, nestling under the rocks ofKossinga, three granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet high, with treesgrowing up to the summit.
Kossinga9½84
Kossinga is a large village with about300 inhabitants, Mandallas being the Negro portion, but themajority being a breed half Arab (Baggaras and Jaalin) and halfMandalla.
Sultan Nasser lives here. The men arearmed with a certain amount of Remington rifles, and a lot ofuseless guns of sorts. I saw four or five Lebel rifles—altogetherabout 200 rifles, and no doubt the outlying districts and villageswould bring it up to 2,000 rifles. (?)
There is a market; dura semsem, salt,bamia, beans (ful Sudani or monkeynuts) can be bought, andoccasionally an Arab merchant makes his appearance and sells cloth,&c., generally coming from Omdurman.

Note.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the forest.

59.—KOSSINGA to WAU (FORT DESSAIX).

By Major W. A. Boulnois, May, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kossinga——Track runs due E.,passing through a small village of Shat people. At 5 miles, crossSopo river at a ford, now dry (30.3.01), to village of Lambe, alsoShat under Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is an off-shoot of Shilluktribe. The Luju khor joins the Sopo just S. of track. Marshy groundfor ¼ mile from each bank of latter.
Lambe88
Khor Angejok7½15½Thence just S. of E. through forest,ground slightly undulating, pass well and Khor Angejok where thereis water. When pool dries, well is open. Bad going owing toelephant tracks across the khor; less than 3 miles further on, theold Government track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka is crossed, nowscarcely used.
Khor Lashirek6½22Water is always foundin Khor Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½ mile S. of track in KhorBabbi; always water. Hence the track runs slightly N. of E., and ismuch intercepted by trees and bushes in places for the next 8 or 10miles, then fairly open across Khors Enniar and Adda Tumia, bothdry (1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala, in which there is a littlewater. Good track, going scarcely impeded. The well here is onlyopened when the pool in khor dries up.
Khor Babbi527
Khor Ayala2552
Abuia1668Ironstone surface till Shat village Abuiais reached. This is in the district of the Dinka chief Chak Chak ofChamamui.
River Biri or Chel472Thence to River Biri,known as Chel here, open low ground for 1 mile before reaching theriver, which is 60 to 100 yards broad, sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15feet high, very little water (2.4.01), ankle deep at the ford,which is only 10 feet broad. Then up a gradual slope to high groundfor ¼ mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan Chak Chak (Dinka). A largevillage with fine situation on long hill sloping to the bank of theriver. Government post here.
Chamamui——
Khor Alalla1486Track goes from ford slightly E. of S. toS.E. through much dura, and then E.S.E. past several huts toVillage Dambo at 2 miles and Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited byDinkas and Golos to high ground, ironstone surface to Khor Alallaor Mali where there is always water, 15 yards wide, broad banks 12feet high and very steep. This khor flows from N. of Deim Idris andempties into the Chel or Biri.
Half a mile further is the village ofAlalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak Chak.
Well Hadid7½93½Hence track goes S.E.pass Well Hadid and well in Khor Babbai, where there are some hutsand cultivation, now deserted.
Khor Babbai497½
Khor Kum15112½Thence to Khor andWell Kum, latter giving very little water (Sparkes says plentifuland good, and never dry, January, 1903). Good going past ironstoneridge, Ruku 60 feet high, no view obtainable across Khor Ungu atributary of Khor Ajak, which latter is crossed with somedifficulty in the rains, to village of Attah, close to right bankof Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and Dinkas under powerful Dinka chiefAgaka, brother of Chak Chak. The district is called Ajak.
Khor Ajak17½130
Khor Atta2132
River Bongo——Thence good trackunimpeded S.E. to S. to the marshes of the Bongo river, with woodson right bank 3 miles distant. The track skirts the marshes of theleft bank, going along the high ground and fringe of the forest.Khors Dengmelah and Akweya (running into the river from W.) arecrossed at 5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7 miles further on thetrack strikes E. across the marsh, ½ mile to Bongo river, which iscrossed and goes to the village of Lang (Jur) on right bank at theedge of the forest.
Lang15147
Deimgnaui7154Thence southerly along edge of forest andswamp, across Khor Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old zeriba is now inruins.
Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages arepassed, Khor Warur (with water being crossed 1 mile S. ofDeimgnaui).
Damuri13167Track goes due S. tohouse of Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba and the British andEgyptian flags flying at Damuri, past more villages with much dura,crossing Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda a village ofBaris.
Bukanda5172
Khor Gitti16188Thence S.E. through jungle for 12 milestill the house of Sheikh Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile to KhorGitti, which is crossed 2 miles lower down; 1 mile further S.E. isthe village of Sheikh Ambua Indogo, where there is much dura.
Marhu7195Thence over highground—no villages—passing ruins of old zeriba Marhu of which a fewbrick foundations only are visible, descending into the Jur andDinka village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong and Mill respectively.
Nuara9204
Wau Post6210Thence the track is much intercepted bybushes in places to Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾ mile from thezeriba.

60.—KOSSINGA to HOFRAT EL NAHAS.

By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kossinga——
Khor Lutu33Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for pools.Direction S.W. Going good.
811Small pool—reported dry inMarch.
River Ragaa516Good going all way to river, which ishere 100 to 150 yards broad, 15 feet banks—now small stream 2 feetdeep. It later on joins River Boru, and finally, after junctionwith it, the Bahr El Arab. J. Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feethigh, lies 2 or 3 miles to S.
Ragaa1026Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed, theFaroge chief, well situated on rising ground. River Ragaa flows atfoot. Good going all way from Kossinga over slightly undulatingground, with occasional rocky excrescences, not big enough to becalled hills, but big enough to notice in this dead flatcountry.
Membera733From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and isgood. Scattered villages, called Membera. Sheikhs Futu andAdam.
Khor Rakib El Gamal841Small well, always gives water, now (17thFeb.) pool with ample water, but drying up fast.
Khor Ronda6½47½Fair going through bush and scrub,crossing two dry khors and passing a pool with water 4 miles fromRakib El Gamal.
Khor Metemma350½Always water.
River Boru1161½Good going through many Lulu trees toriver and village of Boru, Sheikh Futer. About largest tree yetseen in Bahr El Ghazal—some sort of acacia—in centre of village,near Sheikh’s house. River is 1¼ mile from village, very similar toRagaa, and formidable obstacle in rains.
1172½Fair going, passing through two villagesto pool where there is always water. Now marching almost N. throughvery hilly country, gravelly soil and track like a switchback.Chain of tree-covered hill on W., called Jebel I, and on E. calledJebel Yarkar.
Jebel I5½78Pool, always water at foot of JebelI.
Bashum1290Fair going over up and down country,occasionally cut by elephant tracks, to village of Sheikh Bashum.People: Kreich and Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is N. limit ofMusa’s people. Jebel Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W.
Khor Dikki595Track lies through Umbelanda range.Direction N.N.W. Always water in Khor Dikki.
Khor Monio6101Always water.
River Shaliko6107Always water. Nearly 100 yards across;shelving banks. Runs into Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot.
Khor Dimkano4111Track now lies W. of N.W. Always water atDimkano, but “fly” very bad indeed.
River Siri9120Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide; banks 10to 12 feet. Water always obtainable by scratching hole in sand.Runs into Bahr El Arab.
Khor Bapa5125Rocky khor; always water in pools.
Jebel Paya6131Jebel Paya lies to E. of track; otherhills on all sides. Good going, but much up and down.
River Rikki4135Similar to Siri, but always open water,and banks very steep. Track now N. of N.W.
Khor Vongo7142Always water.
Kafikingi8150Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad (Kreich).200 to 250 huts; scattered, and somewhat dilapidated. Small stream½ mile from village, always holds water and fish. Last 15 milesabout N.W.
River Adda10160Track now to N.N.E. Good going throughthick wood along main road to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80 yardswide, banks 10 to 12 feet; stream running E., now but littlewater.
11171Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles, alongvalley of Adda, then cross river and strike slightly W. of N.,leaving all signs of a track, as old Hofrat El Nahas road isentirely obliterated, and going bad and difficult.
Khor Gugu2½173½Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu, wherealways water.
Jebel Teni7½181An old well at foot of jebel, but atpresent choked and useless.
Khor Unwolo8189Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W.
Kafrmoya6195Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample water.Many rhino about here.
River Umbelacha (Bahr ElFertit)4199Through sites of long abandoned villagesto River Umbelacha; guides, &c., only know it by this name.River runs E., but little water at present; but fine stream whenfull, 80 to 100 yards broad, 10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternaterock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles to E., this river joins RiverAdda, the two forming Bahr El Arab.
Hofrat El Nahas1200Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas lie 1mile to S. of river, consist of number of shallow pits covering ½mile square. Whole country round absolutely deserted, and no peoplehave lived here since first rising of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Muradand his people—the former inhabitants—went to Kafikingi, which isnow nearest village.

61.—RAGAA to DEIM ZUBEIR.

By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1903.

Roads.Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.

Game.Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in parts.

Trade goods.Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa.

Water.In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles.

Rivers and khors.In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable.

Camps, &c.Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always.

Fly.Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad sores succumb.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Ragaa——Track lies slightlyW. of S., good going through thick wood to small khor where alwayswater.
Khor1313
3½16½Another small khor where always water;whole country slightly undulating.
J. Legai723½Bare rocky mass about 100 feet high toright of track. Other hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to E. andS.E.
5½29Cross deep narrow khor, now dry, and soonafter enter regular network of ridges of bare black granite calledMungiat. Track now slightly E. of S.
J. Mungiat1½30½Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga, underMusa Hamed. For next 4 miles track lies along narrow valley betweenridges of bare granite, crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which alwayswater, four times.
Shobindi5½36Scattered villages of Sheikh Shobindi,head Sheikh of all Mungiat district, an old man almost blind, underMusa Hamed. Sultan Nasser Andel also has people near here.
4½40½Khor about ¼ mile to left of track,always water. Track now lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded bybushes.
River Koko1252½Narrow river, always water; difficult tocross even when half full. Runs into Sopo.
1½54Small khor, always water.
River Sopo963Bad going through thick bush, and cross astony hill and River Sopo, 50 yards wide, good deal water still andslight current. Very difficult in rains.
Guji1275Beginning of Kreich villages under SheikhMinni Bey, which are scattered over several miles.
River Biri782Very similar to Sopo.
Deim Zubeir587Pass two small Kreich villages and arriveGovernment Post of Deim Zubeir, well situated on old site, onrising ground. Khor Ujuku at foot, now almost dry; fair water gotfrom wells. Reported healthy.

62.—KOJALI to TONJ.

By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, July, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Poste Arsenal or Kojali——Cross from left to right bank of JurRiver, which is 150 yards wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and 20 feetdeep in channel, current 4 miles an hour; crossing a matter of somedifficulty, as have only a small Berthon boat and a dug-out; ittakes some hours, but is effected without casualties.
Kana’s village5½5½The going on right bank much better thanon left bank. There is a good track, and grass as a rule not morethan waist high; on other side it was frequently 6 feet or 8 feethigh. Village of Kana-Rewa, a brother of Tembura’s, is well builtand well kept. Kana’s “Mbanga” or private enclosure surrounded bybanana trees. Cross two small khors en route. Village consists of40 to 50 scattered huts.
Khor38½Our track now lies to N.E., and wegradually leave Jur River. Khor is 12 feet wide and 3 feetdeep.
210½Ravine with small khor at bottom.
Khor Sur717½Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep, runsinto Jur.
Khor Beilo½18Small khor 2 feet deep.
8½26½Marsh, but not bad crossing.
J. Hibi329½Rocky mass of sort of grey granite, siteof final battle between Nyam Nyams and Bongos, which lasted 6 days,when latter were utterly defeated.
Khor Kumio130½Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6 feet deep.Village of Bongos, slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond khor.
Khor737½Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18 inchesdeep.
Ndoruma’s village239½Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another brotherof Tembura; it is quite new, only having been built within last fewmonths. Very similar in size, &c., to Kana’s village, and isthe extreme northern outpost of the Nyam Nyams.
2½42Marsh 100 yards wide, at present only 6feet deep; another marsh 200 yards wide, but not yet badcrossing.
Village5½47½Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2 monthsago, huts all still standing and in good order.
Khor1158½Small khor, dry in winter.
Khor2½61Small khor, dry in winter.
Khor Wolo1778Dry in winter.
Khor Kordabella3½81½More a marsh than a khor, said to benever dry, much cut up by elephant tracks, and have considerabledifficulty with animals in crossing.
Khor Gutong6½88Said to have always water running to N.,and rather fancy this may be River Mulmul under another name.
Khor Mungara391Always contains water, more a marsh thana khor, with muddy holding bottom and cut up by elephant tracks,100 yards wide, and have to carry loads across as laden animalsfall and stick in mud.
River Tonj15½106½River plain here, some 3 miles wide,follow left bank, trees up to river edge on right bank. Riveralmost full, and about 40 yards wide.
15½122River here makes great bend to W. andcomes up to edge of trees, the river plain now being on right bank,but this is only for a short distance, as a rule the plain is onleft bank.
Khor4126Deep khor runningfrom W. to river; cross by going 1½ miles to N.W.
Tonj Post3129

63—TONJ to RUMBEK.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Tonj——Road from Tonjcrosses river close to, but N. of station, and continues slightlyN. of E to forest 3 miles, and on N. along edge of forest 3 milesmore to where river approaches close to it. From there road E. andN.E. through forest, passing elephant swamp (dry by January) tovillage of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba,distance 11 miles. Road from there past villages of Sheikh Bol andthrough forest, direction E. to well in Khor Mahok under agemmeiza tree.
33
36
Sheikh Senug1117
Wag Abak21½38½Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak. Nowater in between, distance 21½ miles. Water can be brought fromvillage Paag, N. of wood to spot 4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, ifword is sent beforehand. Road continues S.E. across Khor Mahok, wetin January, passing village of Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), alsovillage of Rihan.
Gochin745½Hamada, interpreter,to village of Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty forts on W. bank ofriver Gell, distance 7 miles. On E. across river, then N.E. throughvillage of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½miles. Pool of good water on S. of village, and post and rest housein village. Road continues across village through forest, passingcorner of Khor Toj to village of Sheikh Marnal; wells in villageand pool on E. side, 12 miles. From there road S.E. along edge ofKhor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5miles more to village of Sheikh Ateng, and 1 mile more to KhorGurman (or Gulman), where there is a bridge. From there to KhorAbeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to Rumbek 9 miles more.
Sheikh Jok Dau6½52
Sheikh Marnal1264
Khor Gulman1377
Khor Abeir986
Rumbek995

64.—RUMBEK to SHAMBE.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, 11th February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——From Rumbek, roadstarts E. and S.E. for 6 miles to where a well has been dug out onN. of road, then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles to well inAdwolians. Best well at a tobacco garden.
Adwolians1616
Good road through burnt villages;sandy.
R. Naam622From Adwolian, roaddue E. to through village and bit of forest to edge of forest onvalley of Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles, and across plain andkhors to edge of forest on E. 2½ miles more; going very bad, muchcut up by elephants; valley requires causeway and bridging verybadly; grass very high. From Naam, road due E., passing burnt-outvillage of Takidur after 3 miles, and dried up khor called riverLaik (same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles further on.
2½24½
Takidur327½
R. Laik330½Close by on furtherside is Mera of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and Agiong, Agars, latter ofAyak, and adjoining is village of Galik. A well has been dug inkhor, N. of Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up to end of December,then found in pool further N. of that well up to February, perhapslater. From here road S.E. through Galik, 20 minutes, and turns E.to village Akot 6 miles distant.
Akot636½
238½Two miles more to farside of village. Road good, sandy, over high ground; water very farfrom surface. From Akot, road due E. to pool 3 miles, which hadwater until 15th January, boundary of Atwots and Agars; 2 miles onto
341½
243½
Apiot144½Atwot Mera, and 1more to village of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10 good wells givewater all the year. People are friendly and ready to help, but arenot fond of carrying work. They are more manly and straightforwardthan the Agars, and I have hopes that they are not so treacherousin disposition. They carry bows and arrows as well as spears. Fromthe fort, road is N.E., through villages of Chediop and Mogar whichjoin each other, then through forest across deserted village ofManibin 9 miles on; to pool 3 miles; then through old mudiria withmany small wells which do not require much digging to keepthem open all the year, 3 miles.
Manibin9½54
357
360
262After 2 more miles valley of Lau isreached, commencing with khor and pool with water all the year. Upto here road was good, soil very sandy, small belt of forest beforereaching river valley. Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or 3 miles,then is composed of the usual black soil of the river valleys.
R. Lau668From the pool tofirst branch of Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on to second andlarger branch, then 2 more on to camp at edge of forest and villageSheikh Shrun. River valley very bad, much cut up and almostimpassable, even without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8 khors as wellas 2 branches of river to cross. Requires a good road made acrossvalley. From Lau, road E., through villages for 3 or 4 miles, thenthrough forest N.E. to villages and wells of Ajak andGour, total 24 miles. Road cut up much by elephants, and in placesgrass very high. Village of Ajak, ground very sandy and bad formarching. From Ajak, similar road N.E. to Shambe, forest all theway except last 2 miles, total 20 miles.
472
Ajak2496
Shambe20116

Note.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to May.

65.—RUMBEK to DARAGO’S and M’VOLO.

By Captain P. Wood, April, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——
Khor Ronga6½6½Half mile in width, quite dry by 1stJanuary, 1904. Good water always obtainable from deep pools inswamp at S. edge of khor. Very good track.
Large Gemmeiza tree at SheikhKeli’s old village1117½Two wells close by. Fair water; goodsupply. Track good.
Well in shallow khor on rightedge of track, half mile S. of Jati’s old house825½Deep well. Indifferent water—thick andmuch discoloured from clayey nature of soil.
Sheikh Mornyang’s house inZeriba1035½Water obtainable close at hand. Goodtrack.
Rihan’s house7½43Water obtainable close at hand.
Sheikh Toinye’s1457Water ½ a mile distant.
Darago’s764On bank of Naam river.
J. Gurshen (Sheikh Mehl’svillage)569Water from adjacent khor.
S. G. Post at Sheikh Agon’s978Water from adjacent khor, also obtainablefrom Naam river.
M’volo381On edge of Naam river—right bank—atrapids, encircled on land side (E.) by perpendicular high graniterocks.

66.—M’VOLO to KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL).

By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
M’volo3½—Site of old Government station on leftbank, no sign of it left. New station now occupied by Governmenttroops. This is a pretty spot. The river, now a tiny stream ofclear water, falls over a mass of rocks and winds through greatboulders, great rocky ridges line either bank, and many deleibpalms assist in the attractiveness of scene. Swarms of guinea fowlabout here.
Track leaves river and goes E. and passesthrough country more bush than wood, numerous small trees 6 to 10feet high, with light green leaves, called umduti by locals.
Modo Village22Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by Nyam-NyamSheikh Tembura less than two weeks ago, when he raided wholecountry. Track now to N. of E. District Leizi ends and that ofKremu begins.
Kremu Village and District1½3½One large and threesmall wells here, giving ample supply of fair water, said to be drybefore rains begin, but now in large well 4½ feet of water anddiameter of well 7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly well marked, samesort of country, few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes up and down toplains, swamps in rains. Two khors which have now ample water (19thFebruary, 1901), said to be dry in another month, but a permanentpool called Kulokho reported close by.
Khor Degaga1518½
Village (Bufi District begins)1½20Madi village, at present unnamed, beingbuilt to replace one burnt by Nyam-Nyam raiders.
Cross two khors which would cause sometrouble in rains.
Balabbi Village4½24½Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in Bufidistrict.
River Rodi or Yei428½A very fine river when full, now three orfour separate streams, beautifully clear water 6 to 8 inches deep,running through sandy bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and 100 to 150yards apart. River valley as before described, only about ½ milewide here. Lion heard at night, but game not very plentiful. Besttrade goods in Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi districts; clothand beads, then brass, copper wire, or copper.
Bufi230½A bad road for 2 miles after crossingriver, then old Government station Bufi, on river edge, right bank.Earthwork and ditch about 100 yards square all that remains. Trackaway from river to S.E. through thick bush.
Namusha District232½Large dura patch and two fair-sizedvillages; now in Namusha district.
335½Another dura patch and village.
Wira District, late BelgianPost3½39Strike river again at clearing latelyoccupied by Belgians. Trees grow to water’s edge on both banksabout here, a pretty spot. Belgians are known to natives as Tuktuk(Askari) and Kiro as Simsim. No special name for late Belgian post;it is in Wira district.
Dori Village3½42½Track lies E. of S., cutting off bend ofriver, and indifferent going over several dry khors.
Fashitaura345½Still in Wira district, track beenbending W. of S.
J. Yaira, beginning of TokueraDistrict1½47A mass of black rock about 100 feet highand some 300 yards long, full of caves and used as hiding placesfor natives during raids, is about ½ mile from river. Trees stillto water’s edge, and the wide valleys of rivers further N. seem tohave disappeared. Cross several dry khors.
249Many deleib palms near river.
Village251Small village; track lying S.E.
152Through thick low scrub with no trees forabout 1½ miles.
355Cross dry khor and through mass of blackrocks which crop up now all along track at intervals; country muchmore up and down, now no longer dead flat.
Village257Pass through more scrub.
Jebel Dubbo360Two high peaks of black rock connected byridge, track now to S.W.
Beri-Beri Village DistrictTokuera363Touch river again first time for 14miles; village about ½ mile from river, now small stream throughrocks, trees to edge both sides.
Amadi5½68½Old Government station, earthwork andditch 200 yards square on river bank, good situation, and villageKeini, Sheikh Niari-Paka, about ¼ mile outside work and few hutsinside. Cross several dry khors en route to old station;country pretty, many elephant tracks. Best trade goods, Tokueradistrict, cloth and beads. Leave River Rodi, the track for Kirolies first to N.E., skirting round N. side of Jebel Dubbo; goingbad until clear of outlying rocks, then fair villages both on E.and W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former lately burnt by Nyam-Nyamsfrom Makarakaland. Cross two khors running from Jebel to river;many such, now dry, khors with sandy and well defined banks, linedwith trees run into River Rodi, a feature entirely lacking inrivers more to N.
Khor977½Large dry khor running N. and S.; trackstill to N. and E.
Mandia178½Sheikh Dia, large compact village withquantity dura grown round it, water in well, never dry.
Numali Village684½Large village, quantity of dura round;Sheikh Waga-Lanio, intelligent man; ample water from wells, neverdry. Track still to N. of E.; going good, generally bush, few largetrees. One mile to E. after leaving Numali, then N. of E. again,and village Murra, Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called Bilal. Onesmall well ½ mile past village, but gives ample water and reportednever dry.
Track from here lies to S. a great dealand zigzags a lot, but always trending well S. of E. Fine goingthrough thick bush.
Mudo10½95Sheikh Nier Magura, one well similar tothat of Murra.
Khor3½98½Large khor, now dry, running N. and S.Track now about S.E.
Khor6104½Another large dry khor running N. and S.,with sandy bed, track still to S. of E.
Vura Village1105½Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu district,people still Madis. Track from here lies to E.
Kederu District, River Tafari3108½Now dry, except for occasional pools;sandy bed about 70 yards wide, banks 8 feet high, apparently doesnot overflow. Natives say water always obtainable by scraping holefew feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees line banks. Rhinoceros,elephant, buffalo, and various antelopes found near, also partridgeand guinea fowl, but latter very wild.
From River Tafari track lies S. of E.,and about 5 miles from river we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel andproceed through wood, now open and good easy going, now thick, andbad going, cross a few dried up swamps, and pass three villagesdestroyed by fire.
25133½Lulu trees appear again in considerablenumbers.
Nyambara District, Metika Village(small well)10143½Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara tribe (theYambara of Felkin and Junker); small newly opened well here, givingvery limited supply of water, just sufficient for half-pint per man(45 men), but nothing for animals. Up to a few days ago people hadbeen drinking from khors now dry. Between River Tafari and hereabsolutely uninhabited and at this time of the year waterless. Amonth ago ample water would be found in birkas and khors. InNyambara district people now wretchedly poor and miserable, andgenerally bolted at our approach; huts few, small and badly built.From here track lies first to S.E., then to E. (?) through thickbush.
Golela Village3½147Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine lookingintelligent man; Nyambaras speak quite a different language toMadis, and appear a low caste of people.
Well (fair supply)2½149½Two and half miles from village, one wellabout 20 feet deep, from which about fifteen gallons can be got.Reported never to fail.
Track slight N. of E., soil getting sandybarren, much thorn and scrub.
14163½Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles to S.of E. Track again slightly to S. of E. and country still barren anddesolate.
9½173An abandoned Belgian post.
Small well½173½Very limited supply of water, about twogallons obtainable per hour with much difficulty.
Khor22195½Large khor comes in from Bahr ElJebel.
Track last 20 miles about E. and up khorcountry still a wilderness.
Kiro, Belgian Post3198½To N.E. or khor on river edge. A now drykhor bounds post to N. Post consists of extensive collection ofbrick built houses and huts, and has accommodation for severalhundred men. Surrounded by wooden stockade.
Anglo-Egyptian Post3201½To N. of Belgian Post on water’s edge,stands well above river and surrounded by trees. This post wasabandoned in May, 1901.

N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity of water.

There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe.

67.—RUMBEK across NAAM to AWODI.

By Captain E. H. Armstrong, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——
66First 1½ hoursE.S.E., same as Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E. through burnt villageof Adole, and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj, then S.W. through scrubbytrees and low marshy ground to khor with pool and twowells, 1¼ hours more. From there road S. along E. of khor,which has bamboo in it, for 1½ hours; cross khor, and after ½ hourreach Malit, whichis close to khor, and has wells and pools in rains. Malit occupiesa large extent of country, but very few houses in it. Apparentlydifferent portions of the village have their own names, such asMabei and Mading.
28
412
Malit (wells)820
Well222From there road to Iyen, S.E., cross khoragain, distance 2 miles; plenty of water both in khor and one well.Iyen joins villages of Ateru and Damadar, which extend from it inS.S.E. direction. The cattle mera of all these villages is calledTenit, and much difficulty is experienced in making enquiries aboutdistrict, as any of the above names may be used for the district.The Jurs are close to Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading arefollowing villages, or parts of villages, in S. direction,viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho,and Rumbel (?). I have not been to them, but the above is the orderof position from N. to S.
426From Ateru road toRiver Naam direction slightly N.E., passing through, after 1 hour,villages of Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to the ground. NaamRiver reached after 3 hours, the forest approaching within 1½ hoursof river. From there road E., across valley to forest on E. side.River here winds very much, and is close to trees on E. bank. Trackacross plain, rough, and in summer is entirely under water.
River Naam632
436
541From here southerlyroad was taken along edge of forest for ½ hour, then through forestextending out W. towards river; road good. After another ½ hourpass through burnt village of Awog. Here road turns slightlywestward on to old Fort Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in goodposition, overlooking river, which then passes quite closeunderneath; level of fort about 20 feet above river. Site seemsvery good, but natives say a great deal more rain falls than atRumbek. Ditch and parapet still in good order; fort square shaped,sides about 300 by 400 yards. Road from here starts S.E., after ½hour S., over red sandstone, with steep descent to river, and alongedge of forest S. (river here bends away to W.) to cattle mera atedge of forest, which here again juts out in point and is close toriver; distance from Ayak, 2½ hours. Half an hour further back, atre-entering angle of forest, is road, E. and then S.E., to villageof Awao, 1 hour from river valley. From Billing, in anotherdirection, S.E. then S., along edge of forest and close to river,with steep rocky banks, very similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak.After 1 hour from village is road to left, to village of Awao, ¼hour distant. Large village with cattle and sheep mera at S. end.(Road S., along river, continues close to edge of forest for 13more miles, to khor where cattle were captured by late MajorHunter.)
Fort Ayak445
853
356
157
Lam966From Awao road dueE., over steep rocky hill, and onward over high ground, in placesboggy, to village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of road and of Awao growsmuch bamboo. Lam is a small village; rain-water pools along road insummer. Village of Awodi 1 hour further on; large village extendingE. and N. from above road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco plantation;about ten deep wells, 3 miles more.
369
Awodi372
577From here party wassent out N.E., and found so-called River Laik, then dry; no waterfound even by digging, but I fancy the natives know where to findwater. This is the same watercourse as the M’Buri of Feniar, onShambe road; it is about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6 miles furtherE. is village of Rumbel; no water found there. Probably theinhabitants during dry season migrate with their cattle to RiverDok or Lau.
683

68.—RUMBEK to MANGI’S VILLAGE.

By Col.-Sergeant Boardman, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Rumbek——Marched from Rumbekon 11th February, through Runga (Jurs) S.W., then W.S.W. to wells,across Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high trees, several largemongoose at well. Halted ½ mile further on, country open andpark-like. General direction S.W., country open forest and wasteground, then up steep hill into forest. Halted for ten minutes atwell.
Khor Abeir77
Sheikh Kali’s1118On to Sheikh Kali’s,a neat village, 13 houses round a tree, Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboogrowing all around. Water obtained from wells. Road continues S.W.and S. for one hour, and S.E. for half an hour, ground sloping S.across successive belts of bamboo, open ground, and somewhat openforest; then S. and S.W. over ridge to village of Sheikh Gol, ThenS.W. 1 mile across low ground. At 8 miles, road to Chums, S.W. Roadcontinues S. along deleib valley for about 11 miles—many deleibpalms, open forest, some large trees—across two small khors. Pastburnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named Kayali on river, after 10 miles.Ground in deleib plain slopes W. to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. andS.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then smaller khor on W. of it, andhalted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 miles through thin forest andvillage, and on slightly S. to village of Sheikh Ri; halted justbeyond in forest. Water about a mile N.E. From here marched S.through forest, villages, and across three khors; after one hourdura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of Ri), and his village (from herevillage of Moinyeng about 20 miles N.E.). At first ground slopingto E., but after village crossed low ridge.
Khor Gulma1331
Sheikh Ding (Wakil of Gol)132
Sheikh Ri537
Sheikh Marain4½41½
Sheikh Dogbei13½55Continued S. 1 mile,then W. and S.W. along low ground for one and a half hours, then S.and S.E. for another one and a half hours; road continues S. for 2½miles more, crossing low ground. Halted E. of water. Inthree places on march low ground must be marshy in rains. ContinuedE. for 2 miles, then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along N. of khor,ground sloping from S. to N. through forest and village, then E.for 1 mile to dura of Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. near road,then S.E. to more dura and few houses, on through village S. towells; halted under tree on rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 milealong edge of forest, and W. for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, thenS. across low ground; here road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ milesround rocky hills, along side of forest, and close to (W. of)another khor, then strikes S., across khor to wells, called villageof Sheikh Kolli, but village deserted long ago. Indifferent water,but near the surface, and frequented by game.
Sheikh Kolli (deserted village)560
Village of Sheikh Abui565Continued S.W. for 1mile, and 2 miles W. and S.W., over high open ground at first, thento left through forest, on S.W. for ½ mile, passing rocky hill,right-handed, then W. for 1 mile, passing other rocky hills,left-handed, which overlook valley to W., S. and E., the highest is80 to 100 feet above ridge itself; high ground N., and on R. slopesin wooded ridges to W. and sheer S. Village of Abui N. and W.,raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at tobacco plantation. Water in holesin rocks, plentiful and excellent. From rocky ridge excellent viewto W., showing successive banks of trees running S.E. to N.W., thenS. and N.,. representing lines of khors and rivers, or theirtributaries. Then back to two tukls of Sheikh Abui, and continuedW. and S.W., passing through belt of fine trees on to village(Khartan) and across khor. From here S. and S.E., passing a patchof flat rocks through forest, then S. and S.W., up rising ground,through open forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. for 1 mile, and thenS.W. again. Continued W. and S.W.,. over high ground, at first openforest, then clump of fine trees, gradually to S., scrubby forestand much burnt. Then S. down to dry khor with high grass, whichapparently runs W. into River Roa or Gell. Water in pools to E. andW.
R. Roa or Gell1378
583Crossed khor S. and then S.W. After 2miles of burnt and open forest, crossed khor running S.E. and N.W,and after 4 miles came to belt of high trees, some of the large leaf kind,here the ground becomes low and covered with high grass on R. Guidetook us round N. side of it, and brought us to river more than twohours earlier than was expected. Here we found there was no road.Guide had taken wrong road, had to find way back, S.E. and E.,through high grass, then along path through forest to S., and thenhalted for information. Could get none, went on without hamla andfound spot by river and sent for hamla.
Continued S.W. and then S., along edge offorest; on the left hand river several times came close, rockybanks and pretty, plain on R. varying in breadth, according towhether spurs of high ground and forest run out into it, or whetherjoined by flat grassy khors; crossed several small ones on riverbank, and came to a pool in khor; halted for 15 minutes.Continued across similar ridge of forest burnt in places, then cameto another big pond in khor; direction of march still S.
1194Moved along E. ofpond and found the khor which runs from E. to W.; deep channel ofwater with broken muddy banks, crossed it a little higher up byfilling in with grass and branches; mules and all crossed easily.From there road slightly W. of S., across similar ridges, crossingone broad dry khor, halted on ridge 300 yards fromriver; crossed Khor-el-Said and continued across spur of hillcovered with burnt forest for 3 miles; direction S. and slightly W.of S., then came on khor running S. and S.E.; turned left along itand came on bend of river; rocky bed with cataract, rocks cut intolong channels by flow of water, banks steep, high grass on farside. Had to unload animals and pass over everything by hand, rivernearly bridged by rocks, but very uneven. Marched on again, goingW., through high grass till meeting track after ½ mile, then S.along side of ridge with spurs running down to river, sometimessmall open plain near river. After another mile passed over oldzeriba of Abu Samat (1½ miles after crossing river). On in samedirection, and struck river again near khor, pretty spot; then onacross open low ground to another spur on which we halted. Riverruns S.E. from here. Continued S.W.W. into dense forest, partlyburnt, no track; crossed spurs of two ridges with small sandy khorsin valleys.
599
5104
8½112½Then marched S.W. along a ridge for onehour and a quarter; ground here slopes down E., with thick belt oftress on a hill about 3 miles E., then over deep sandy khor uprocky hill. Continued S. up steep hill, view all round; high ridgescovered with large trees; after 1 mile went down to valley, crosseddeep rocky khor, little water in pool. Khor going W. to N.E.Continuing S., crossed valley and camped on high tableland;water in khor below.
Marched again S., and after quarter of anhour reached a deep narrow khor; halted and cut away banks to crossanimals; water in pool to E. (left). Continued S., crossed widegrassy khor after 1 mile going W. to E., then one hour over highrocky ground with tall grass; thin forest; crossed small khor (W.to E.), then low ground with tall grass and thick shrubs. Strikingold track of Nyam Nyams, very indistinct, marched S. of W. for 1mile over rising ground and through thick forest, then S.W.,passing end of deep gorge which runs E.; lost track and marchedS.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two small sandy khors about 50 yardsapart, running parallel S.W. to N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossedgorge after 1 mile, then fairly level ground, rocky. Again strucktrack and followed it; ground drops to the E. Continued S.W., andafter half hour crossed a wide khor, tall grass, running W. to E.Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo country, can be seen about 40miles E. of here.
Mount Yara, Khor Mugei16½129Continued S.W. alongrocky ridge, went down to Khor Mugei, water running N.E. to S.W.This khor is about 12 yards wide with tall grassy plain each side,and apparently drains hills over which I passed during the day andruns into River Leizi. Thick forest nearly the whole way. MountYara, a large hump-shaped mountain, covered with trees, about 2miles across khor S.W.W. Halted here for the night. Marched in themorning S., along E. side of khor, for half hour through tall grassand few bushes, then S.S.E. for half hour, ridges to left (E.).After 4 miles turned W. of S. over ridge, thickly covered withlarge trees,undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then down to valley, very open groundcovered with burnt grass and large ant hills, with dry khor incentre; valley about 1½ miles wide, several large trees. Mts.Angaliri can be seen from here N.E. Carriers say they are near (60miles N.E. of) Hmadi. Continuing S. struck path going S.W.,followed it along valley, crossed khor, dry, and marching throughtall grass came to River Leizi, narrow, high banks, overhung bytrees, dry at ford; crossed and entered village of Sheikh Sango(slaves of Nyam Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, who is underSultan Mangi. Here natives bolted; village stands on rise andfairly open ground. Tribe Homr from Babikr.
River Leizi, Sheikh Sango11140
Sheikh Agadamba10½150½Marched again and crossed khor, then overslight rise; burnt forest of young trees. Met party from SheikhAgadamba; crossed khor running W. to E., little water, ground dropsto E., large ridge in distance S. of E., then over slight rise,small forest, and crossed small khor (W. to E.); then over spur ofhill and came to wells, open ground with young lulu trees.Continued S.S.W. over steep hill covered with thick forest intovalley, fairly open; crossed khor, little water, over small rise,another small khor (W. to E.), then through dense forest S.,crossing rocky khor and, turning E., entered village of SheikhAgadamba, tribe Geate, from near Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son ofYambio); passed through village and camped on Khor Reishindabeyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to N.E. into River Leizi (nativesinform me that River Leizi runs into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.))Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E.from here, tribe Abakas, came in here and does not seem verywilling to give information. Continued W. through village, housesscattered in the thick of forest, and one house cannot be seen fromanother.
B’bonga Khor Zaza11161½Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda (S.W.to N.E.), then over rise, young forest, dense undergrowth, slopesW. towards khor; ridges in distance (W.). Forest thickens as weadvance, several small open spaces. Continuing S.W., passed oldvillage of Sheikh Agadamba, M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi;reached Khor M’bagi, water running from W. and bends S.E. MountM’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-shaped and rocky mountain, fewtrees, about 100-150 feet above ridge. Continuing S., passed footW. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped and few large trees on crest,about 150 feet high; then over ridge W. of S. past dura fields,crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. of E. named Parkpe, and halted onoutskirts of village B’bonga near Khor Zaza, rocky khor runningN.E. to S.W. into River Ibba, little water in rocky pools;inhabitants of village recently moved E.; ridges of trees to E. andW.
River Ibba4165½Continued S. and crossed Khor Zaza, on toridge, thick forest continuing W. of S.; after half hour groundslopes E. to khor about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. Path runsparallel with khor, high ridges the far side(E.). Continued S.W.over high rocky ridge down to bend of River Ibba, 40 yards widehere, sandy bottom, winding in S.S.W. direction.
Marched S.W. over ridge and came uponriver again, after crossing open ground in valley. River here bendsN.W.W., banks very steep, about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards wide; aswing bridge crosses river here from N. bank to a tree on S. bank.Unloaded and cut away banks to cross, as bridge does not appearvery secure. Crossed and camped on S. side in hollow open plain,with cliffs about 40 feet high running parallel with and about 300yards from river. Tall grass which I burnt before camping. Climbedcliff and obtained following view:—i.e., Mts. M’bagi andUmbumbamba stand out very clearly N.E., with ridges of treesrunning W. to E. and N. to S. River winds towards N.W., with grassyplain on either bank, skirted on N. bank by forest, S. bank bycliff and forest. View S.E. obstructed by trees.
Khor Mungongo, Sheikh Tum7½173Marched on E. along foot of cliff for 1mile, then unloaded and climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. over ridge,young forest; after 15 minutes an old deserted village of SheikhAgadamba. Path to Yango (E.) from here; for half an hour throughvillage, then down to Khor Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 yardswide, tall weeds; then along edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour,ground rising on far side of khor (E.). Khor then bends S.W., andpath turns S. across it and enters forest of largetrees, lulu type,undergrowth burnt; marched through forest S.W., several openspaces; then through thin forest and down to W. over fairly openground, and crossed Khor Mungongo and camped on far side at 8.45a.m. near village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of Mangi tribe Agbea. Wenton alone to village named after Sheikh, found very little water inwell, houses scattered and very thickly populated, so decided tocamp at khor and await messenger. Sheikh Zumio, son of Mangi,village Mazura between Khors Korsi and Mukongo, near village(deserted) Penio—tribes Baminda and Abunangi—came in; his districtruns from River Ibba, below Penio, and W. along Benza’s district;seems very intelligent, and says he is anxious to be friendly togovernment.
Marched S.W. up slope of hill, then E.round E. side of Mts. Bandilia, high rocky mountains covered withshort grass, then down W. of S. and crossed Khor Wure Mangonga;this khor flows into Khor Yur; fairly open ground at first throughvillage, then young burnt forest. Continuing S.W. crossed KhorTozo, open ground, marshy, then over ridge, bushy country; groundslopes E. to plain, with thick belt of trees on ridge in distance(N. to S.).
Village Umbeyur8181Going S. over rising ground, passed KhorMapeko with village Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N. bank.Continuing S. over rise, crossed Khor Magone, then thin trees forten minutes, then through telibun fields to village of Umbeyur,Headman Bgumbo. A good many banana plants here, and several patchesof date palms en route. Camped in village. Tribes Bagmondaand Abondu, slaves of Mangi.
Marched on S. through village, overrising ground fairly open, drops E. and rises to forest. After halfhour crossed small Khor Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam Nyamstribes are called Abakas, also to E. and S.E. of here. ContinuingS.S.W., passed deserted village of Abubunda.
Harimat of Mangi7188Turning S., path runsparallel with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor Yur Abowis—which bendssharply to W. Crossed and continued S. over rise, bushy, passed olddeserted village of Badigo. Then very marshy ground, crossing KhorUmbondingani, continues marshy for some distance E., with largepools of water. Going S. over marsh, crossed Khor Mungani, groundthen rises, valley to W., far bank dotted with houses; harimat ofMangi. Then passing few houses, then E., S.E., and S. through thinforest, houses on either side. Ground drops W. Bananas plentifulen route. Continuing S.S.E. over rise, through thin forestdown steep incline; crossed Khor Mabondi, dry at present, but about10 feet deep during rains, and 100 yards wide, it ends about 1½miles to E.; then up incline on far side; passed few tukls, throughthin forest, young trees. Progress slow, having to cut road fortransport, down slope and crossed Khor Mufeu, splendid large poolof water, excellent quality, houses close by. Then S. for fiveminutes and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu, over rise through thickforest, young trees; then S.E., S., and S.W., through thick belt oftrees, so thick that sun did not penetrate, and was in semidarkness, down to Khor Masagissa (runs N.W. to Mufeu), and haltednear pool of water. Very open ground near khor to E. and W. Cutpath through belt of trees for hamla, &c. Trees of the lulutype the whole way. Crossed khor, very marshy ground for ½ milebeyond, then S.W. over rise, ground drops E., with thick forest indistance on high ground; passed old village of Abiama, SheikhLeguar, this has been a large compact village, some time deserted;banana, manyok, cloth, and cotton plants growing in wildconfusion.
Khor Masagissa5193
Khor Makatapu runs parallel with and toE. of path bending W., path crossing it near batch of tukls ofMangi.
Mangi’s Village4197Continuing S.S.W. through thin forest,trees close on path; cut way for hamla, reach more tukls(deserted); camped beyond at pools of water, on open ground.Progress slow owing to thickness of trees on path. A large numberof date palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia all along banks.

[27]This does not apply now (1904).

CHAPTER VIII.

(KORDOFAN).

69.—SHEIKH SADIK to HOMRA.

There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but indifferent shade.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Sheikh Sadik——A small and very dirty village. One well120 feet deep. Shade in khor to the south. Tomb visable at adistance. Good mosque. People own many goats. Dura sometimesavailable. Leaving the village the track crosses a khor and leadsover gravel soil across several shallow khors. The country isfairly open, much samr bush. Telegraph line is on the west.
Wadi Afu88Is reached soon after crossing thetelegraph line. Much cultivation on the surrounding rising ground.The gravel is now much mixed with clay which makes the going badduring rain.
Goz El Leia15½23½Sand commences and continues to Shageig.The marakh bush first appears.
Bir Khanga629½Now dry. There is also a large fula. Manyothers exist in the neighbourhood. Heavy going in places(1903).
Shageig13½43Fula and many wells. Water practicallyunlimited. Small village. Fair shade but grazing bad in hotweather. The road now leads to the north end of J. Tius. There islittle shade, but fair grazing.
J. Tius1861About 300 feet high above plain. The roadcrosses the sand hill that has collected on the north side. Theroad now passes one or two fulas that only contain water in therains.
El Homra1677Good rest house. Small Gowama village.Two good wells 125 feet deep. Fair shade near well. Moderategrazing, gets indifferent towards end of hot weather owing to thelarge number of convoys that pass through.

70.—EL DUEIM to HOMRA.

This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid. There is a well defined track throughout.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Dueim——Leaving the town in a westerly direction,the track is at first difficult to pick up. Black soil, whichduring the rains becomes very swampy. Bush never bad, but manykhors, which at times hold a great deal of water, have to becrossed.
Id El Ud11½11½Small Kurtan village, many wells, waterpractically unlimited. Fair shade near wells, but during the rainsground becomes very swampy and mosquitoes are very bad.
Track continues over black soil at first.Then sand gradually increases and the bush disappears. After 4miles no shade. Nothing but marakh bush. Slightly undulatingcountry.
30th mile3041½Telegraph line is struck, and soon afterJ. Helba is seen ahead.
Helba849½Two wells 90 feet deep; good supply ofwater. Small Shuweihat village. Little shade near wells, but plenty½ mile on. The road is on the south side of the telegraph line.There is a good deal of bush, sayal, heglig, etc.
Homra1362½See [Route No.69.]

71.—HOMRA to EL OBEID viâ BARA.

(Corrected to January, 1904.)

Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood. Water is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more than 300 camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but the wells quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Homra——Small Gowama village. Two good wells 125feet deep. Good rest house, and fair shade near. Little dura forsale as a rule. Good track S. of telegraph line. Good shade forfirst 13 miles, then nothing but marakh bush, good grazing.
Sakra21½21½Small village S. of road. Well 100 feetdeep on N. side of telegraph line. Water for 100 men. Rest house;no shade.
Shatib12½34Small village; one well; no shade.
Old Well5½39½In middle of track. Much cultivation nearbelonging to Gafala; a Maganin village visible 1½ miles S.
Shegeila645½Large Gowama village; two good wells 140feet deep. Can water 200 camels. Rest house. From here there aretwo roads to Baharia viâ Wad Abu Suleiman and viâZereiga. The latter is the better.
Viâ ZEREIGA.
Track follows telegraph line. Very littleshade.
Zereiga550½Two wells 125 feet deep. Small village;little shade, and bad grazing near wells.
Country open; little shade.
Baharia13½64Two wells 80 feet deep. Rest house. LargeGowama village. Fair shade near village. Water very plentiful.
Viâ WAD ABU SULEIMAN.
Road goes nearly S. at first; much gumand sayal bush, thick in places.
Wad Abu Suleiman954½Small village; one well 90 feet deep.There is another village with well a mile to the S. on the UmSemeima-Um Dam road.
Um Semeima2½57Two small villages; each has a well. Roadfrom Um Dam comes in here. Track leads due W.; marakh bush; noshade.
Baharia6½63½See above.
The country is now quite open.Marakh bush; no shade.
Shereim1781A small Gowama village on the N. side ofthe road. One well. A mile before reaching it gum, sayal and harazbush appear. Road winds a good deal, and bush is thicker to within1 mile of Bara when cultivation commences.
Bara586Large village with mosque and small suk.Good rest house. Wells from 6 to 20 feet deep, water practicallyunlimited. Good grazing near.
Leaving the S. end of the town there is awide track E. of the telegraph line. Heavy going to 5 miles beyondUm Sot.
Daragai Well995One well on road. Fair shade near, butground much soiled by camels and cattle.
Um Sot398One well on road 85 feet deep; goodsupply of water. Good shade under large haraz trees near village 3miles S.E. Next 5 miles heavy going, then road improves.
Fula Faragalla12½110½One hundred yards in diameter, generallydry by end of October. Good shade and grazing near. J. Kurbag isseen in front. Road passes to W. of jebel.
Fula Kurbag9119½S.W. of jebel; 100 by 80 yards, usuallydry by mid-October. Good shade.
From here to El Obeid there is no shade.The track passes through dukhn cultivation. Good going.
El Obeid5124½Main track goes to the town. For theMudiria follow the telegraph line when struck. At night be carefulto avoid the wire stays to the poles.

72.—EL DUEIM to EL OBEID, viâ HASHABA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, Scot. Rifles (March, 1900), and Mr. R. E. More (1903).

This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There is good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting. After Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one viâ Um Dam, the other viâ Abu Areish. The former is the better, as there is plenty of water at Um Dam.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Dueim——Leaving the town in a westerly directionthe track goes over black soil which, during the rains, forms aserious obstacle to transport. Bush never bad, but several khorshave to be crossed, which, at times, hold a good deal ofwater.
Id El Ud11½11½Small Kurtan village; many wells, waterpractically unlimited. The Agaba is now entered. Track hard to pickup at first. During the rains it is often necessary to go some wayto the N., as the ground W. of wells is liable to floods.Mosquitoes are then very bad. No shade.
J. Shwei (Rest house)2435½Rest house. Low isolated hill S. oftrack. Country becomes more undulating and bush increases. Goodgrazing, but no shade. Well now being dug, but water not yetreached at 180 feet (September, 1904).
Hashaba El Murad (Resthouse)2762½Maganin village. Three wells 140 feetdeep. Rest house. Dôm palms near village form good land mark. Takethe western road; after leaving the cultivation little but marakhbush is seen. Good grazing.
Shegela8½71A small Maganin village. No well; waterfrom Hashaba. Good track; slightly undulating country. Hashab treescommence and continue to within a few miles of Um Dam. Directionnearly due W.
Um Dam (Rest house)2394Head Quarters of Khursi District. Resthouse and 3 good wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation all roundand several small villages near. Leaving in a south-westerlydirection, good track; gum and sayal bush. Gowama.
Um Basira397Small village off road to N.; oftencalled Fiki Taha; well. Good track; gum and sial bush, thick inplaces.
Wad Kamuri5½102½Two villages. One good well. Plenty ofgrazing and shade off road to S.
Goz El Hagiz3105½A low sandy ridge running nearly N. andS. Country now becomes more undulating, and continues so to within10 miles of El Obeid.
Um Sedeira (Rest house)3½109Three villages, with one good well 80feet deep; can water 30 camels. Good shade and grazing.
Adara5114One well 80 feet deep; good water. Goodtrack, but heavy going.
Um Heim8½122½One well 100 feet deep; can water 15camels. Um Beida, 6 miles S.E., has a similar well.
Um Busha (Rest house)3125½Two wells 120 feet deep. Good shade andgrazing near wells. Many haraz trees. Road now bears S. W. J. Gleitand J. Kurbag are left to the N. Well marked track all the way.Some bush, but cultivation for last 5 miles.
El Obeid33158½
The following is an alternativeroute. There is, however, less water, and the road is much lessfrequented.
Hashaba El Murad—62½Leaving in a S.W. direction there islittle bush at first. Good track.
Bagera2577½Three small Gowama villages. One bad well140 feet deep, not to be depended on. Good track; sayal bush.
Abu Areish1693½Small village. One well 120 feet deep.Can water 15 camels with difficulty. The road from Taiara to Um Damcrosses here. Good track over red sandy soil.
Goz El Hagiz497½Low sandy hill.
Um Shidera3½101As above.
El Obeid49½150½As above.

73.—GEDID to EL DUEIM, viâ UM DEISIS.

By Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, February, 1901, and Colonel the Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1901.

The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is occasionally impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east and west leading from one patch of cultivation to another along the red sandy ridges are more generally used. There is practically no bush near the road and very little shade.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedid Wells——The road goes almost due N. from thewells. A few small villages are seen west of the road, inhabitedonly during the rains.
Selia2525A Gimma village on a hill, belonging toSheikh Nur Hussein, and four other Ahamda villages. Thirty wells, 8feet deep, 1½ miles N.E. Good water, but they soon run dry. Thereare roads from here to Fachi Shoya and J. Kon.
Um Deisis732About 40 wells, 30 feet deep. Plenty ofwater, This is a Kurtan village. The gum gardens and cultivationbelong to them, but the Beni Jerar water their cattle here, andtheir camping places are frequently seen.
Abu Sela1850A Shanabla village situated on a hill.The country all round is very open, and firewood scarce. The wells(not seen) are 2½ miles S.E. of the village. The country nowbecomes more desert-like, but during the rains all the ridges arecultivated. A few miles before reaching Um Bueira many villages areseen to the east of the road. These belong to Um Bueira.
Um Bueira1161Some 20 very good wells, 28 to 30 feetdeep. The villages and cultivation to the E. of the road belong tothe Mesellemia, to the W. of the road chiefly to the Shanabla.There is no bush about, and at this time of year (Feb.) very littlegrass. Hundreds of sheep and goats water daily.
Shat2½63½A large place with suk and manymerchants. The wells are numerous; about 30 feet deep, and give apractically unlimited amount of water. No shade and little grassnear wells, as it is eaten down by the cattle, sheep, and goats,who come to water. Many villages about, Mesellemia and Shanabla,and in the rains much cultivation. In rains water stands, andmosquitoes are bad.
Three miles on the bush commences, but isnever very dense and generally grows in patches.
Um Sunta1073½A small pool.
The bush now consists of kittr, heglig,and talh, but is never an obstacle to transport.
The ground is a good deal cracked and isat intervals impassable in the rains.
El Dueim881½For description, see Part I,[p. 66.]

74.—SHAT WELLS to EL OBEID, viâ J. KON.[28]

As far as Zereiga, by Colonel the Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1901; remainder by Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, March, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Shat Wells——The road bears nearly S.W., well markedand nearly straight, crossing several sandy ridges. Easy ascentsand descents. The only “Id” passed is Abu Shareima, where there isa natural pool of little depth and quite dry. About 1 mile to theN. is a new Shanabla village.
Goz Um Sibila5½5½Goz Um Sibila is crossed. It does notseem more remarkable than the other ridges, but the name is wellknown.
Zereiga Wells5½11Many wells, 15 to 20 feet deep, goodwater. J. Bachi just visible in the evening from highest mound nearwells. Water supply diminishes in summer. Water stands here afterheavy rain, when mosquitoes are very bad.
The country becomes slightly undulating,good well-marked track, red sand, a few hashab trees about, butcountry generally open; little shade.
Amara2839Remains of about 30 old wells. Formerly aBaza village.
Um Ged½39½Ditto; but remains of more wells. This isa well-known halting place for convoys from Ageila, as there is alittle shade.
Road divides13½53The southern track goes to Ageila, saidto be “one day”; the other turns due W., crossing the sandy ridgethat has collected N. of J. Kon. There is a good deal of bushabout.
J. Kon1½54½A rocky ridge running nearly N. and S., ¾mile long, and rising about 300 feet above the plain. A littlewater on the mountain, and many old wells on the W. side near thetrack. These are said to have formerly given plenty of water.
Hella Kon155½A small Gowama village. Water from J.Kon.
Alleiga3½59A small Baza village. No well; water fromBint Joda.
Id Adam362Remains of eight old wells; said to havebeen 80 feet deep.
Bint Joda Wells365Twenty wells, 85 feet deep, not muchwater in them. Five more being opened. There was formerly muchcultivation about.
The village is ¾ mile to the E. Peopleare Baza and Gowama, and own many gum gardens.
The country continues slightlyundulating, covered with hashab bush, but the latter is never verythick near the road.
Um Bilbil166Old wells. Gowama. Formerly muchcultivation.
Gogran167Ditto.
Elton3½70½Ditto.
Fula Masuda171½Thirty yards in diameter, 2 feet deep,now dry.
Rabeisab Wells172½Now fallen in.
Rabeisab2¾75¼Gowama village of thirty tukls, waterfrom Wad Kasim.
Wad Kasim2½77¾Twelve wells open, 70 feet deep. Littlewater; it took an hour to fill 12 zigs, working four wells at thetime. The wells and cultivation belong to the Messadab tribe.
Um Butran1¾79½Deserted Gowama village.
Wad Delu3¼82¾Old wells. Gowama. Much cultivationformerly.
Group of old wells3½86¼About thirty. Guide did not know theirname.
Sayala7½93¾Very small Gowama village. Sheikh AhmedOmar (lives at Taiara). Two very bad wells. Signs of formercultivation now become less, and the hashab trees increase, untilnear Taiara the bush is in places thick enough to interfere withtraffic.
Taiara24½118¼A large village, with good wells andmarket. Head quarters of a District. Many merchants, who buy gumwith grain and cotton stuffs. It was once a large place, but inJanuary, 1900, had not more than ten tukls. It is however growingvery rapidly. Sheikh Ahmed Omar, Gowama Homran, and Sheikh MohammedEl Mahir, Gowama Gemeiia, are the two principal sheikhs.
For the next 18 miles the track, which iswell defined, crosses a series of ridges of red sand. These runfrom N. to. S., and, though never very steep, delay trotting camelsand disturb the loads of transport animals. They are Goz Taiara,immediately W. of the town, Goz Um Ageiga, Goz Benit Ranim, GozMultut, Goz Amarik Sinein.
Amarik6124¼Village on side of last named hill. Nextcomes Goz Amarik El Fungara and then Goz Bartai.
Bartai3¼127½A small village on the W. of thelast-named hill.
Goz Abd El Azim, Goz Gaabr.
Fula Gaabr3130½There are two natural ponds, one to theN. and one to the S. of the road. They are usually dry by November.Goz Boli, at the foot of which is a pool called Um Butab; Goz UmHemeira, at the foot of which is a small pond of the same name. GozFiki Gelalat El Din, a mile beyond which is a pool about 35 yardsin diameter called Fula Magbus; dry in October.
Gafil4½135A small village on the east side of theGoz El Hagiz El Ashgar, which forms the western boundary of theGowama country. Water from a bad well, and from Fula Magbus.
The track now enters more level country,but khors are crossed in many places, and the going is very bad inthe rains.
J. Kao4139Is left to the N. of the road. The hashabtree becomes rare, but in places the bush is dense though theactual track is clear enough. A few tebeldis.
J. Deigo9148On the north of the track. There are twofulas, one S. and one W. Both dry up by November as a rule.
Deigo1¾149¾A small village. Water from the abovefulas and from El Obeid. The road from El Rahad comes in here.
El Obeid6½156¼

75.—SHAWAL to GEDID viâ FACHI SHOYA and EL ALOB, thence viâ DAR EL AHAMDA to TAGALE.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, the Durham L.I., 1901, from Personal Observation as far as Dar El Ahamda, Remainder from Native Sources (February, 1901).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Shawal——Is on the right bank,and nearly directly opposite to H. Sheikh Bordein, a small Sudanesewood-cutting settlement (1901) on left bank. From the latter a goodtrack along left bank, through thick bush for first mile or two,leads to Fachi Shoya, which is a flourishing village and theresidence of Sheikh Gubara, head Sheikh of the Shankhab tribe.There are also some Greeks here, agents of Khartoum merchants, forthe purchase of gum.
Fachi Shoya1212
(From here there is an alternative andrather shorter route to Gedid viâ Bellali 17 miles, AbuAadel 21½ miles, and Menauel 29 miles).
The track still continues within a mileor less of the river, which is accessible almost anywhere. Thereare many Arab encampments along the river, rather more than a mileinland.
El Hasai416Shankhab, dry weathervillage on river bank. El Alob, a long sandy “Goz” or hill ispassed about half a mile to the E., and a little further on thevillages of the same name are reached. The route to Gedid now leadsW.S.W., and immediately after passing the rain village (about 100tukls) of El Alob, the numerous sandy ridges so typical of S.E.Kordofan commence.
El Alob5½21½
Galet930½The name of the wells(not visited) and hill passed about ¾ mile to the N. of the road.About ½ a mile before reaching the wells, the rain village ofSalogi, consisting of about 40 tukls, is passed on the top of ahill. There were eight wells in use (February, 1901); waterapparently plentiful about 12 feet below the surface.
Salogi2½33
Gamas2½35½About 30 tukls. Four wells about 18 feetdeep, but only giving a scanty supply of muddy water.
Um Hagar3½39Passed about 1 mile to S. of road. It ison the main road from Goz Abu Guma to Gedid, which joins in about 1mile further on. There are four wells about 12 feet deep. Waterfairly plentiful. These are the westernmost Shankhab wells.
Menauel544Rain village; 20tukls about ¾ mile N. of track. Wells dry. Main road to Gedid (11miles) goes direct, but if water is required, must go about 2 milesW. to Um Beiru where there are about 60 wells 15 feet deep. Waterplentiful, good shade.
Um Beiru2½46½
Gedid9½56Lies in a basin surrounded on three sidesby low sandy ridges, on which are permanent villages. There arealso several temporary encampments of Arabs who come to live nearthe wells in dry season. In the rains water stands in large poolsin this basin, and in the dry weather there are many wells about 10feet deep with plenty of water. It is the headquarters of theGimma, and is a comparatively large gum centre; there are severalGreek traders living here (February, 1901). Some of the best gumcountry in Kordofan lies westwards between here and Ageila. Fromhere to Dar El Ahamda there are two roads, that viâ Meikabeing the longer; but the greatest distance without water is only17 miles, whereas by the direct road there is no water for nearly30 miles. Gedid is now (1904) the Head Quarters of a District.
Goz Um Tibeir1½57½The latter road runsdue S. viâ Goz Um Tibeir, where are several villageswatering from Gedid, after which no inhabitants are met, exceptperhaps a few gum pickers at Makheita, until Dar El Ahamda isreached.
Makheita1067½
Wad Mahmud572½There is an ‘id’ here, but the wells aredry very early in the year. This was the site of Abd El Rahim AbuDugal’s deim, from which he raided Dar El Ahamda in the summer of1899.
Khor Senitai3½76Said to be boundary between the Gimma andDar El Ahamda. There is very dense kittr bush about here, though itdoes not interfere much with travelling.
Um Wabar278The country here becomes more open and isstudded with small kurmet bushes.
Um Subagha8½86½Four wells, 20 feet deep, little water.Road from Goz Abu Guma viâ Id El Gim (9 miles) joins inhere. This is the usual route to Goz Abu Guma taken by people fromTagale and Southern Kordofan.
Alternative route——The alternativeroute from Gedid viâ Goz El Homara passes at first throughthickish kittr bush, and then through more open country to Meika(10½ miles). The site of the Khalifa’s deim, defeat, and death(1899) lies a little to the W. of the direct road to Meika, and isreached viâ Rahad Asheishat, which contains water for sometime after the rains (in March, 1901, it had still a little veryfoul water in it). People are said to collect here during therains.
Rahad Asheishat6½62½
Um Debreikat2½65The site of the battle is close by on theE. of the road, and the position of the deim which was alongsidethe road is still recognisable from the stumps of the trees cutdown.
There is also a large pool on S. of road,about 150 yards by 80 yards, and there are the remains of a gooddeal of recent dukhn cultivation in the vicinity.
Meika368Five groups of wells used by the Gimmaand a few of the Selim Baggara. Water plentiful about 12 feetdown.
From here the road runs S. to Goz ElHomara (4 miles), the cultivating ground of the Selim and a few ofthe Gimma Arabs, and thence to Id El Gim (17 miles) in Dar ElAhamda, joining the direct road from Gedid at Um Subagha (portionGoz El Homara to Id El Gim was not traversed).
Um Subagha2795From here the road passes through verydense kittr bush, which impedes the rate of travellingconsiderably.
Mafri7102A small village; water supply from IdTefangerun.
Id Tefangerun2½104½In the Khor Ardeiba, which is said tooriginate in the Tagale mountains, and to flow S.E. to the Nile. Init are nearly all the wells in Dar El Ahamda, none of whichhowever, except those of El Akaf, can be relied on to contain muchwater towards the end of the dry season.
The Khor Ardeiba is not, as a matter offact, known by the same name for more than a mile or two, as ittakes the name of each successive district through which it passes.It has a shallow ill-defined bed, but is traceable by the number ofheglig and other green trees which grow in it.
Dura3½108The road follows thekhor and passes wells at Um Desis and at Dura, a village (no well)from which J. Um Talha is visible; a track branches off southwardsthrough very dense kadad bush, and 1¾ miles on joins another trackfrom Gamelein (1¼ miles), which is the usual starting point forTagale, and where there are several wells. The track then leadsS.W. across a cotton soil plain thickly covered with bush, chieflytalh and kittr, to J. Um Talha, one of the Tagale group ofmountains under Mek Geili Adam. It is inhabited by Nubas, and hasseveral wells. See [route No.98.]
Gamelein1½109½
J. Um Talha (Tagale)50½160
The distance from Gamelein to Um Talha isonly very roughly estimated, and cannot be relied on.

76.—GOZ ABU GUMA to DAR EL AHAMDA.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, March, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Goz Abu Guma——Goz Abu Guma,properly Zeinuba, is on right bank of White Nile and is the headquarters of a District. There is a post and telegraph office and afair suk. In good years plenty of grain can be bought here. At lowNile in order to cross to left bank, a branch of the river iscrossed by a ford to two islands, thence there is a ferry to W.bank, where there are several gum depôts. The road from Dueimviâ El Alob passes here and follows the river southwardsto Kaka and Kodok. A much used road also leads to Gedidviâ Um Hagàr (see [Route No.9]) 20 miles, thence viâ Taiara to El Obeid.
West bank1½1½
El Koru3½5The road to Dar ElAhamda leads S.W. over the usual more or less undulating and openbush covered country to El Koru; a largish village said to havewells (not seen). Soon after leaving this a road from the rivercoming from N.E. joins in and 3 miles further on another trackbranches off S.W. to Um Adda (6 miles) where there are severalwells.
3½8½
Id Teheima1¼9¾The track followedled S. to Id Teheima, several fair wells and villages, thence downa very bare valley to Id Um Zaaf situated in the middle of aperfectly open level grassy basin, which looks as if it might beswampy in the rains. Several wells or holes; water plentiful, notmore than 5 feet down.
Id Um Zaaf615¾
Um Zaaf1¼17Goz Um Zaaf with a village on the top ofit. Near the S. end of the goz there is another well, but withlittle water. A road runs from here eastwards to the river (12miles?), and another westwards viâ Waar (8 miles) to Gedid(24 miles).
Suda7½24½Road followed runs S.W. through a gooddeal of kittr and gum bush to Suda, which is a small villageperched on the usual Goz.
There are two lots of wells and water iscomparatively plentiful. Good shade. There are several othervillages near. Here the road from Um Adda, another from Um Hagàrviâ Waar, a third from Gedid viâ Um Debreikat,and a fourth from Meika unite. A path also leads S.E. to Jebelein(25 miles) viâ Andaraba (no water en route).
Um Huta1½26Continuing S. theroad passes a village named Um Huta to the W. (no water), and latercrosses Goz El Shubai, the highest hill in this part of thecountry. There is an “id” at its S.E. end, but it had no water(March, 1901).
Goz El Shubai531
Here a track branches off eastwards to GozEl Homara, and about 2 miles further on another from El Homara runseastwards to Um Gereib.
Um Sir637At Um Sir (Selim) there were severalwells and plenty of water in March, 1901, but in the same month,1902, there was said to be very little.
There were also the remains of a gooddeal of cultivation about.
A road leads from El Homara viâthese wells to Jebelein (about 18 miles).
Mit El Ghaneis138Small cultivation village.
Goz El Gharak240A slight elevation on which is dukhncultivation N. of track.
Rahad Waar3½43½A large natural rain tank, dry soon afterrains, but many Arabs congregate here whilst there is water.
Khor Talh3½47After passing through thick talh bush, ashallow khor, probably that known on the Gedid Um Subagha road asSenitai, is passed.
Um Fatma350A well known belt of thick kittr about amile in width, said to be N. boundary of Dar El Ahamda.
After this is passed country iscomparatively open.
Id Heidub1060Several wells; water not very plentiful(March, 1901).
Id Nagi363One or two wells, but very little water(March, 1901). Splendid shade.
El Gedul366Rather large village (for these parts);water from Id Nagi.
Soon after leaving El Gedul some verydense kadad, &c., bush is entered and continues to
Mageikha2½68½A small cultivation village.
Wad El Khot1½70Small village; water from Saneit. Densekittr bush which interferes with camels is now traversed.
Saneit272Small village residence of Sheikh AbdelRahman Taher, head Sheikh of Dar El Ahamda. Several wells in ashallow khor; fairly good supply of water. From here a road leadsS. to El Akaf (4½ miles), good wells, thence viâ Id Nemeid(wells 11½ miles) to the Nile, probably at Um Asherin, about 20miles beyond.
Gamelein2¼74¼The road leads up the khor to Gamelein,described in [Route 75,] and thence to J.Tagale.

77.—GOZ ABU GUMA to EL OBEID, viâ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD.

From a Report by Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th Hussars, November, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Goz Abu Guma——Bad landing place—easily improved; alsobad watering place at this season (November) for animals; bucketsnecessary. No good grass close. Camel fly bad.
Menauel2424Several pools; best, 50 by 30 yards.Water good.
Gedid1135Good road. Several pools; waterfair.
Abu Rukba1853Small fula, dirty water, 3 miles W. ofvillage, would be dry by end of November. Drinking water fromwells. Close cultivated country.
Um Kueika2578No water at Um Shokaba or Um Hagar, sowent on to Um Kueika. Shallow fula, filthy water, more like liquidmanure. Wells not much better. Thousands of water melons are growninstead.
Sherkeila2098No water at Ageila. Big lake atSherkeila—fair water; also good water from wells. Road, beforereaching here, heavy going. Bad place for horses.
Um Ruaba18116No Tebeldi trees, but big fula, 50 yardsby 40. Country more open. Passed big village, named Gogham. 3 milesshort of Um Ruaba. No water at Shamagatta, so marched viâRahad.
Gadadin6122Big village.
Abli6128No village. Half a mile off road, inthickly wooded khor, were 3 small pools, each 20 yards diameter;also another smaller pool of clean drinking water.
Um Kheiran16144Road over succession of ridges of deepred sand, rendering going heavy. After passing Village Eilafun,country open. Large fula at Um Kheiran, 70 yards wide—goodwater.
Umbeil3147Village.
Fula Um Sheikh4151Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3 feet deep.Good clear water.
Rahad Lake11162Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad, about 3feet deep—good water. Numbers of mosquitoes and sand flies. Bigvillage about 2 miles from lake.
Mao10172Tebeldi trees and well. Road from hereonwards much obstructed by trees.
J. Ein19101At foot of rocky hill is a well, said tobe a spring. 60 buckets did not empty it. Forest very thick andfull of deep khors about here.
J. Deigo112022 small fulas of filthy water hardlydrinkable by horses.
El Obeid9211

78.—GEDID to EL RAHAD viâ AGEILA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, December, 1901.

This road is very swampy in the rains.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedid——Two good wells. Many Gimma villages near.They are not occupied during the rains, as there is littlecultivation near. Good shade. Track over cotton soil, thickbush.
Abu Rukba1717Some old wells. The tomb of the Khalifa’sfather is on a hill a little to the N. of the road. There are agreat many tracks here. Local guide necessary.
Um Afgheim1835Pool and one well. Track now leads overmany sandy ridges. Between the ridges black cotton soil. Bush thickin places.
Ageila1449Several wells (14) with good supply ofwater. The village of Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of the Gowamasis a mile N. of wells. Good shade. Water stands here in rains andmosquitoes are very bad. (There is a road from here to Sherkeila,12 miles). There is now less black soil, and the bush becomes lessthick.
Um Ruaba2473A large fula with wells. The latter arevery bad. Much trouble in watering ten camels. Good shade. Thevillage is 1½ miles to the N.
Track to Shamagatta andTaiara1285[To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30miles].
Country becomes undulating, sandy ridges,black soil between.
El Eilafun1095A small place with one well, but littlewater.
Um Sereiha196Small village, water from El Eilafun.These two villages were once large places, now very poor. Goodtrack.
El Rahad22118Several large villages, much cultivationand small suk. Lake now full.
N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902. Whendry, wells are dug in bed of the lake.

79.—KAKA to opposite JEBELEIN, by Left Bank.

By Captain H. H. Wilson, March to April, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kaka Meshra——A good landing place at low Nile, butimpossible at high. Track from here to opposite Jebel Ahmed Agharuns in N.E. direction, and lies some way from the river.
Moro2½2½Most northerly Shilluk village, part ofthe Kaka district. Country round here is bushy, with certain numberof good trees.
Arab village¾3¼Part of the Kenana tribe, who are to befound in considerable numbers in the vicinity of Fashoda, Fama,Atara, and Kaka.
Debba Adaraba1¾5On right of track. Site of old Shillukvillage.
Debba El Asal¾5¾On right of track. There is a very fairtrack all along here, passable all the year round, but crossing anumber of shallow khors which would be a serious obstacle in therains. After passing El Asal, the bush gives place to finepark-like land, situated on high sandy ground.
Ferik2¼8Sheep ferik of Baggara Selim Arabs, onlyoccupied by them during dry season. The whole of the country fromKaka to Jebelein is the Selim country, over which they roam fromDecember to May. A number of Hemeida and other Arabs from Kordofanalso come and graze their flocks here.
5¼13¼Small Shilluk village on what is anisland in the rains; I was unable to find out the name of it, butthe name of the sheikh is Angwet.
¾14Track here crosses two khors which weredry in April. Forest all along here on left. Wide river foreshorewith khors on right.
2½16½A big khor runs into the river from thewest—dry in April. Some very fine big trees about here, some of thetimber being exceptionally long and straight.
Debba Duara El Sogheir3¾20¼Debba on right, high sandy ground andfine forest.
Debba Duara El Kebir2¼22½Big khor runningalongside of track on right. It is impossible to get to the riveranywhere in this country, except at one or two recognised places,without struggling over a wide foreshore of half-burnt tangledgrass. Track crosses a khor.
123½
Debba Berdan629½
Ferik1¼30¾Sheep ferik of Selim Baggara.
Debba232¾On left of track. Good level ground andpark-like land; excellent going under foot. Owing to the trackbeing at a considerable distance from the river, and the khors notall having water in them, it is advisable to travel about thiscountry with a guide, as certain spots are known to the Arabs ascamping grounds, where generally a large ardeb tree is to be foundwith water close at hand. First sight of the jebel from here.
Debba Berdan2¼35Another debba of this name. Countrybushy.
Debba Aliang3½38½Track now runsgenerally between the forest on the left and khor on right. A widekhor all along here on the right, then a thick belt of treesbetween it and the river.
6½45
247The khor here runs into the river—aconsiderable amount of water in it for the last 10 miles.
Meshra Meteima⅛47⅛An excellent meshra at low Nile, and notat all impossible at high. After having pushed through about 80yards of reeds, the high sandy bank is reached and access gained tothe inland track, which is excellent all the year round. JebelAhmed Agha opposite. River about 1,000 yards wide here. Followingthe ordinary track this is the first time that the river water canbe obtained after leaving Kaka. Selim Baggara ferik about ½ mileinland here in bush. Track from here northwards runs through a fineforest for about 6 miles, when it debouches on to wide riverforeshore.
Ferik6⅜53½Sheep ferik of Selim Arabs in bush.
Khor Nagor2¼55¾A khor is crossed here which is anobstacle to any transport except carriers all the year round,having a water channel of about 8 feet, and a depth of 5 feet,choked with grass. This khor bends round northwards and joins theriver just S. of Meshra Alwat (right bank) (which is a name howeverbut little known to the Arabs, who generally speak of it as the“Balad Selim Bangan”). The track follows this khor inland, as the“island,” or ground between it and the river, though dry in the dryseason, is exceedingly bad going for animals and men, owing tocracks and rank grass.
Ferik6½62¼Track strikes the khor again. A smallferik under a well-known Selim Arab, Yasin, a little grey-headedman.
Debba Tebeldia1½63¾Track crosses the khor here. This countrybeing practically uninhabited—and full of game—is a haunt of lions.I saw three when marching along the track all within 100 yards ofeach other. The Jackson’s Hartebeeste is to be obtained here also.Track now runs on left side of khor; thick forest all round.
Debba Nabagaia4¾68½High open debba left;this is the Nabagaia district. Country now changes generally tobush, with, as a rule, a belt of trees somewhere between the trackand the river.
573½
Minadak1½75A fair meshra; opposite Alwat. Selimferik about ¾ mile inland in bush. Just inland of the bush thereextends a vast plain covered with thorn, scrub, and grass, andabounding with game.
Debba Megabr7½82½Left, and a Selim ferik just S. ofit.
Ferik385½Another Selim ferik; wide khor on rightof track.
186½Khor close to track; big ardeb tree, andmid-day camp.
187½A branch of the river is visible about300 yards off on right. Track is now alternately sandy and good andcracked and very bad; the latter state owing to the number ofshallow khors the track passes over. Country bushy.
Ardeb Aliga1299½Near river bank. Good camping ground, asthere is little shade to be got, except under these (to the Arabs)well-known ardeb trees.
Ardeb Matemenat2¾102¼Another big ardebtree. Shortly after this the track descends on to the foreshore andcontinues thus to opposite Renk, where there is a fair meshra inthe dry season only.
Renk3¾106
Hasoia4¾110¾Arab encampments. Island of Hasoia herealso. The track winds monotonously through interminable kittr bush,generally within reach of the river. Selim feriks thick for thenext 17 miles; but as they are only temporary, and change everyyear, it is not worth while marking them all down.
Debba El Tor23¼134On left of track.
Um Ashrin2½136½Bush very thick here. Island of Waka(Bulli) stated to be opposite here. (This was the name given by theArabs on this occasion, and probably differs from any other knownname.)
Meshra4½141Meshra used by the Arabs during the dryseason.
El Ardeb22163Meshra, and Selim encampments, oppositeJebelein, bearings of the two chief peaks of which 114° and 70°respectively. This is the chief meshra of the Selim people, as itleads to their villages, which are about 15 miles inland oppositeJebelein.

Note.—The information re the track from Renk to the Jebelein is from a Report by El M. A. Said Eff. Nur El Din, Police Officer, Renk.

80.—OMDURMAN to EL SAFIA WELLS.

By Major N. M. Smyth Bey, V.C., Queen’s Bays, November and December, 1901.

Most of country between Omdurman and El Safia is so barren that the grazing grounds are very limited in area, and the population is so sparse that beaten tracks are only to be found in the vicinity of the watering places.

Most of the country is scattered with low samr bush, which, not being in leaf owing to the scarcity of rain this year, affords little shade. Dead trees afford an abundant supply of fuel. Many wells get partly filled up with drift sand, or with mud brought down by the infiltration of water, which may be quickly cleaned out. The supply at all wells is dependent on the amount of rainfall.

N.B.—As there are no well-defined tracks, and the distances have been measured off the map, they are probably all too short.—H. H. S. M.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Omdurman——Leaving the town the route bears a littleS. of W. over hard sandy soil. A little low scattered bush. JebelDuieim Serob (?) is left to the S. Sand hills are met. Some samrbush.
Um Hei2727Old wells.
Um Teital734Twenty wells in red clay, all dry. Wateris found after ordinary rainfall at 15 feet, but often fails aboutFebruary. Shobil wells, 30, all dry, are 3 miles to the N., and AbdEl Mokeit, 20 wells, where water drains in slowly at 12 feetthrough red clay, are 6 miles to the N.
The country here belongs to the WaladOgba section of the Kababish, who have much cultivation in theneighbourhood. Abd El Mokeit wells water 500 sheep daily.
The route bears due W. over undulatingcountry.
Melh El Maagil21½55½A pool in Khor Mogaddam, 100 yards by 10yards, lasts till January. A mile W. several similar pools existafter good rainfall. There are some salt licks a mile to theS.E.
There is now some track in the wadibearing S.W. Sayal bush.
Bag Bag1267½Pool in wadi, dry in November. The oldwells fallen in. N. of them are two groups of 15 open wells, half amile apart, in the bed of the wadi. Copious water at 15 feet.
The route now bears nearly N.W. overundulating country, little bush.
Habisa2491½Id El Kebir, 50 wells of good water 15feet deep. The other wells here are—El Khirwa, 20 wells, 15 feetdeep, good water, and Neimura, 40 wells, depth 25 feet, all dryNovember, 1901.
Id El Gurud596½Due W. and higher up the khor is a groupof 3 wells, dry. One mile W. a group of 15 wells in bed of a sandywadi; at a depth of 15 feet copious water. This water is said tohave been first discovered by Arabs finding water holes scratchedin the sand after rain by the apes that exist in theneighbourhood.
There is now a slight track which bearsW.N.W. as far as J. Khashm El Kelb, which is left to the N., andthen bears W. and W.S.W. over broken ground.
Derota40½137Thirty wells, all dry except one. Eightfeet deep on rock, bed kept open by foxes burrowing in thesand.
Three miles to the W. the Haraza-Dongolaroad is in the Wadi Bitit. The country is undulating and in placesstony, and several wadis are crossed; general direction W.
El Safia (Um Geiti)35172Um Geiti wells. The wells are situated onthe E. side of a plain which is surrounded by hills. The wells are:(1) Um Geiti, depth 13 feet, good water, considered inexhaustible.Two hundred more have fallen in. Five hundred camels and oxen arewatered daily. In the driest season thousands of cattle are wateredhere. (2) Id El Serajab, 30 wells, not in use, but only needclearing out to afford a water supply.

81.—DEBBA to EL OBEID, viâ WABRI, ELAI, SAFIA and KAGMAR.

By Mr. James Currie, April, 1903.

The route from Debba to El Obeid is little used, even during the kharif when water is comparatively plentiful. At that season a few merchants carry dates to El Obeid, perhaps carrying back gum in exchange. The portion of the route from Debba to Safia is subject to variations according to the whim of the guide employed, as well as the season of the year. Some prefer the route Um Belila—El Amri—Hobagi—Haraza without going to Safia, whilst others during the dry season travel viâ Wabri, Inderab, Gumr, Gambar, Habisa, Bagbag, and Kagmar.

The track described below was plainly marked throughout, but, owing to scarcity of water, would be difficult, at any rate during the driest season, for a party of over twenty-five camels. Shade and firewood are plentiful throughout.

In the following report the only places where there was any water on the road are mentioned.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba——Left Debba at 6 p.m.;country desert with a good deal of mimosa; went about 11 miles andstopped at Bir Kufra, no water but guides stated it existed not farfrom surface.
Bir Kufra (1)1111
Bir Kufra (2)1021Continued due S. at 6a.m.; mimosa ceased, softish sand and sand hills, stopped at 10a.m., at another old well, Bir Kufra (2), but guides state waternon-existent at any depth. Resumed at 4 p.m. and entered big khorrunning N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m.Entered Khor Magakha and went on for 4 hours; arrived at Bir AbuSayal, three old water holes, no water (April, 1903), stopped thereat 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m., passing on E. of path Bir Gelud,another old empty water hole. J. Abu Heglig here appears on E. ofpath. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at 4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles before Wabri very stony and barren;three-stone-lined wells and abundance of water and grazing. Acertain number of Hawawir Arabs watering their flocks, and a fewcamels.
Wabri5374
Bir Kernak1387Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak. Thiswell is a bit E. of direct road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10 a.m. Twostone-lined wells about 12 feet deep with abundance of water.
Hassanai1097Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south-westerlydirection; rode for 3½ hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived atHassanai, where there are a few Arab families. There is a hofrahere, where a little water is to be found, but all camels arewatered at Elai or Kernak.
Elai13110Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode up WadiHassanai, crossed over rocky pass and arrived at Elai at 10.10 a.m.Two stone-lined wells (several disused ones) about 12 feet deep,but contain little water and take 5 hours to fill, about 4 feet indiameter, and want cleaning out very badly.
Stayed at Elai during morning. A longbusiness watering my camels. Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went ontill 7 p.m. Three small hills to E. of track chief land-mark.Gazelle here very numerous.
Khor Hobagi——Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30 a.m. W.of J. Mutmir. Went on 4 hours in evening due S. Off at 5.30 a.m.,entered Khor Hobagi about 7 a.m. through a very rough agaba. About9 a.m. passed a hofra which contains water during rains. This isthe so-called well of Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m.
Country very much dried up and verylittle grazing. Went on in afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30p.m.
Safia85195Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12 noon.Abundant supply of water from many wells. Numerous ril or addragazelle, also tracks of wild sheep. Country rocky, much shut in andheat excessive. Much the hardest part of journey.
Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40 wells, butnot a great deal of water in each. Water about 20 feet fromsurface. Many Kababish Arabs and a considerable number of camels,cattle and sheep; gazelle very numerous.
Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar,viâ, Haraza hills, where I was told there was water; wentS.E. and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m.
J. Haraza——Off at 4.30 a.m. andarrived at J. Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad. To get to thesehills one digresses some 15 miles from direct road to Kagmar, andstrikes the range of hills about the middle. There are two wells,but one, Bir Shungul, is high up among the hills and is reached bya very rough track. The second is Bir Sani, 150 feet deep. I thinkthe digression to these wells was a mistake, and would recommendthe direct road.[29]
Bir Sani——
This range of hills is inhabited byNubas, of whom there are said to be some 250. There is certainamount of cultivation.
Travelled 5.7 in the evening.
Travelled towards Kagmar all day, passingJ. Hadid on W. of path, and towards evening catching sight of J.Atshan on the E.
Kagmar81276Arrived at Kagmar in the evening, havingpassed on E. of track J. Atshan and J. Royan.
Water plentiful from here to El Obeid,vide Routes [71] and [83.]
Bara48324
El Obeid38362

82.—SHEGEIG to EL SHOWA, viâ KAGMAR.

By Captain W. Lloyd, November, 1902.

This route is at present but little used, though there is a well-defined track throughout. It forms part of the old road to Darfur and is now used by merchants going to Nahud. From El Showa they go to Um Shidera, and thence, having watered their camels, to Shallota and Nahud.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Shegeig——Leaving Zerga wells (where there is alarge fula in the rains), the track is at first hard to pick upowing to the numerous cattle tracks about. Going nearly due W.,Fula Naima is first seen and then Fula Bereinku, 5 miles from Zergawells. The track then goes along a level ridge to the northernshoulder of J. Derish. Good going, plenty of shade andgrazing.
Fula Um Sunta3131A small pool on the N. side of the road.Crossing the ridge, the ground becomes gravelly and in placesstony, for next 6 miles. Kittr bush and a few meika trees thenappear and shade becomes rare. The road crosses Wadi El Kigeira andWadi El Luggud, both of which are swampy in the rains; several saltworkings are passed.
F. Shershar2051A small pool. Sayal bush now commencesand is thick in places to near Um Sayala, when the track becomesdifficult to follow.
Um Sayala7½58½A small Jaalin village with one excellentwell ½ mile S. Good shade near village. Leaving the village thereare two tracks, one to Um Heimeira, one to Id Sabil. The latter isthe shorter.
Id Sabil866½An excellent well 120 feet deep,belonging to Sheikh Abd El Nebi Masud, a Baghdadi. Two hundredyards N. of the well is a clump of dom palms which form a good landmark.
The whole way to Kajmar from here thereis little or no shade. The soil is red sand with plenty of grassand marakh bush.
Old Um Sayala571½Now in ruins. From here there is a trackgoing S.W. to J. Maganus.
Fadlia6½78A small Walad Dagoi village, one goodwell. From here there are roads to Abu Tabr and J. Maganus. Leavingthe well, there is at first no track, but J. Atmur is seen infront.
J. Atmur684A small quartz rock with fula and goodshade on the S. side. Good track.
Um Guerfa (Hella El Sheikh)1599A large village with two excellent wells,95 feet deep, at which several hundred sheep and goats water daily;there are several small hellas near. Leaving the main hella, a goodwell is passed 1 mile on, and another 2 miles beyond.
Harais Well5½104½A good well belonging to the Zaghawavillage 1 mile N. of road. From here J. Gahania is seen due W. Thedirect road crosses the col between the two most northerlyhills.
Gahania8½113A Zaghawa village on the N. side ofjebel. The wells (one sweet, remainder salt) are 1 mile S. of thejebel. Thence to J. Kagmar there are many heglig trees, but allgrass is eaten down soon after the rains by the large herdswatered.
Kagmar6119A Zaghawa village. The wells are on theS. side of the jebel at the bottom of Wadi El Sigai. Plenty of goodshade and grazing in the wadi. Leaving the wells, the track goesover a bare plain for 4 miles. The country then becomes undulatingfor 5 miles. Steep soft sandy hills. Marakh on the hills, sayal inthe bottoms. Bad going. The remainder of the road to Shershar isover nearly level country. Bush thick in places.
Shershar Wells16135The wells, 40 feet deep, are excellent,with good shade and grazing. The villages are to the W. Leaving thewells, the road passes three villages and many salt wells, and thentrends S.W. through slightly undulating country, little shade,heavy going.
Um Hashim Bakhit10145Two small Ferharana villages with twowells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation. Passing a hella calledRubshan, much sayal bush is seen.
Wad Medina6151A large village, Sheikh Mohammed WadMedina, four good wells and much cultivation.
Um Hashim Simaui7158Good track, over level country. At thisvillage there is a good well. Sheikh Timsa Simaui, a Hababin Arab.The track continues in a south-westerly direction to
El Showa10½168½Two villages with a very good well. Fromthere there are roads, W. to El Gleit or Um Shidera and S. to ElObeid. The bush in the vicinity consists of marakh and sayal.Plenty of grazing.

83.—BARA to KAGMAR.

By Captain W. Lloyd, March, 1900; with Additions in December, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Bara——Road at first through much ushur bush N.by E. Slightly undulating country; good track.
El Hadid1515One good well, 60 feet, and smallFaharana village. Track crosses several ridges until a largewell-defined one is crossed called El Khran, then along the base.Marakh and nabbag bush; little shade.
J. Homra2338Small jebel; on S.W. side there is asmall Dar Hamid village, and two wells 10 feet deep; good water.Track passes E. of jebel. Open country; little shade.
J. Filleiha644Low rock jebel, sand much piled up on N.side. On S. side, a Dar Hamid village and well 10 feet deep. Manyold wells. Dom palms and castor oil plants. Good shade. Trackpasses to E. of jebel in Wadi El Sigai, between low ridges. J.Kagmar seen in front; good track. Some shade and good grazing.
Kagmar7½51½Small Zaghawa village. Many wells 10 to20 feet deep; water practically unlimited. Many Kababish campsnear, and hundreds of camels water daily. Good grazing in the wadi,none elsewhere. Onions procurable from garden near wells. Muchcultivation.

84.—EL OBEID to FOGA, viâ MASRUB.

By Captain W. Lloyd, October, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Obeid——The road leaves the town in anorth-westerly direction over sandy ground. On reaching the highground, J. Meitan and J. Abu Sinun are seen in line. Track good,bush not very thick. A few bad places in the rains.
The road leads to the S. end of
J. Abu Sinun2222J. Abu Sinun. Here there are two fulas,both about 100 yards by 50 yards, but shallow and will soon be dry.There is a deep crack on the S. side of the jebel in a rock, knownto the arabs, which now contains a good deal of water, buckets andropes are required. There is now no track. Thick bush. J. UmShidera can be seen to the N.W. from the high ground S. of thejebel.
Hella Shiheita15½37½A small Baza hella; no well. There is nowa good track.
Hella Ushut340½A small Nimr hella; no wells; trackgood.
Um Shidera10½51The wells are in a hollow S.W. of thejebel, eight good wells open, 30 feet deep, plenty of water, manyold wells. The hella is ¾ mile N.W. People belong to Dar Hamid. Thetrack now turns nearly N.N.W.
El Gleit13½64½A small hella, Dar Hamid. The wells arein a hollow ¾ mile N., at the base of the jebel. Ten wells open, 25feet deep; good water, but not very plentiful; many old ones about.There is a road from here to El Sheg. The track now goes N. and N.by W. for 11 miles, and then W. over hard red sand.
Masrub1579½A small hella, Dar Hamid, justbuilt.
Masrub Wells4½84The track goes N. to the wells; two goodwells, 5 feet in diameter, 30 feet deep; eight old ones near.
There is now no track. March N.W. for 6miles, and then W. through level country, with little bush over redsandy soil. At the 14th mile a ridge (running N. and S.) 50 or 60feet high is ascended. There is now a good track (J. Um Hashas isN.N.E.) over undulating ground. Two miles beyond the ridge the roadturns S.W.
J. Idris35119A hill 100 feet high; 1½ miles from N. toS., the track goes over the col between two peaks.
Bur Islam15½134½Eight fulas 20 to 30 yards in diameter,and 4 or 5 feet deep; water reported to last three months, thenwells are dug a few feet deep, but water never lasts until therains. Several Hamar hellas near. Bur Islam is a low lying place,swampy in the rains. “Bur” means uncultivated.
There is no track, the direction isnearly W. and W.S.W., through bush for 31 miles, when a good trackis struck.
Um Sayala35169½A small Hamar village; no well; tebelditrees. People get water from near J. Bishara Taib. Good track N.W.,past a fula now nearly dry, 100 yards by 80 yards. There are manyold wells.
J. Bishara Taib4173½The track goes over a col, N. of thehighest peak, through some old stone walls, said to have been Fungfortifications. Good track.
Hella Ibrahim1½175Small Hamar hella, water from Foga. Goodtrack.
Foga1½176½Foga wells; these wells consist really ofa series of fulas, 30 to 40 feet in diameter; there are over 30 ina depression. When the water gives out the people dig wells in thebottom, and these supply water for the rest of the year.
The only ruins of the old town I couldfind, were two small houses said to have been the telegraph officeand magazine. The old telegraph line cannot be traced. Vide R.’s[85] and [87.]

N.B.—The whole of this road is said to be passable to camels in the rains, but there would probably be a good deal of difficulty 8 miles from El Obeid, near Abu Sinun, and near Bur Islam.

85.—EL OBEID to FOGA viâ UM SHEMMA, GLEIT, MASRUB AND GURADI.

By Captain B. C. Carter, Lancashire Fusiliers, March, 1902.

This route is longer than [Route 84,] but there is more water.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——The track isdifficult to pick up in leaving El Obeid, but fairly goodafterwards. Country slightly rolling and open. Soil light sand, andgood going. Grazing good. Fairly grassed. At Um Shemma three wells,broken; 100 to 120 feet deep. Seem to water a good many cattle.Wells 3 miles beyond village.
Um Shemma3232
El Sheg or Gebir1951No track at first over rolling country,fairly open. Marakh bushes and talh. Seven miles from wells, abroad track is cut running to El Sheg or Gebir. Two or threescattered villages with cultivation. Good water supply from thewells 160 feet deep. Seem to water a lot of goats and sheep.
El Gleit1768I believe there is a good track all theway to El Gleit[30], but my guide lost his way. Country dipsdown and becomes rather close thornbush to within about 6 miles ofEl Gleit, when it opens again. Scattered villages and cultivation.Many wells in a khor, some salt. Water supply permanent but scanty;should water twenty camels. Good view of surrounding country fromthe jebel which seems to be called Angag or Gleit.
Masrub Wells1886Broad track to Masrub through opencountry, little grass, talh, hashab and heglig; two small villages.Wells in khor, three in number, 11 feet. Water supply scanty. Ittook 3 hours to water nine camels. No grazing this year. From herethere is no water till Guradi.
Guradi or Abu Agaga47133No track. First point is J. Um Has Has.Rolling open country. A lot of heglig trees near the jebel. J.Katul and Kaja visible all the way. Passing Wadi Melowa the countryrises gently. Two paths are crossed. The first comes from J. Subariwhere the people get salt. The second goes from Katul to Nahud. Nowater save in tebeldi trees from Um Has Has, J. Selatia.From this ridge the two small jebels of Guradi, behind which lie the wells arevisible. Below the ridge is a shallow depression about 2 milesacross which becomes a fula in the rains and should hold a lot ofwater. Country all much the same open and rolling in parts. Lightsandy soil. About a dozen wells lie close together 20 feet deep.Water comes slowly. Might water a company of Camel Corps if wellswere seized over night, but ordinarily not more than 15 or 20camels. Grazing poor. Tracks lead to Kaja and Hofra. Latter villagehas no water. Bir Soderi water plentiful.
Foga70203From Guradi to Foga no water. Countryrolling open steppe. Very heavy going for about 8 miles beforereaching track between Hofra and Foga. This line is evidentlyshorter and better than the old road. No track at first butsteering easy as J. Nagut is always visible. Track when reached isbroad and well worn. From J. Sheikh El Rifa going becomes mucheasier, nearly all shok is avoided by this route. At Foga manywells, but water scarce after January. Vide R.’s [84] and [87.]

86.—ABU AGAGA to BARA.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, January, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Abu Agaga——Marching due E., after 6 miles, pass J.Selatia. No track, bare plain; then march a little E. of S. on J.Um Has Has.
J. Um Has Has2727After passing the jebel, turn due S.through thick bush.
Masrub1441A small village. Two wells, 20 feet deep,good water. Ten and a half hours from Abu Agaga. Leaving Masrub andmarching due E., after 15 miles, one passes south of Jebel Muaigato
Megeinis2465Megeinis, a village. No water, people usemelons instead. About 1½ miles north of the village are two smallhills. Five and a half hours from Masrub; no track.
Leaving a track leads due E. throughthick bush.
Um Daioka1580A village of Arafia Arabs. Wells 1 mileN. of village called Lowai; 100 feet deep, plenty of water, but notgood. Three and a half hours from Megeinis. Track now goesN.E.
Rubshan989Village. Water good. Track turns S.E.through thick bush.
Marra897Village of Arafia Arabs. Shiekh, AhmedOmar. Water not good. Track goes N.E.
Khar Tauil11108Good water in plenty near surface:gardens, old fig and lime trees; a few vines. A few Danagla livehere. Six and a half hours from Um Daioka.
Bara10118A broad track goes due E. over highridges of red sand to Bara. No trees. Two and a half hours fromKhor Tauil.

87.—FOGA to KAJA (BIR SODERI).

By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O., December, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Foga——There are no people actually living onthe site of the old Mamuria, but there are several Hamar hellasclose by. Foga is a good military position as there are severalsmall sand hills which command the surrounding country, which usedto be open, but is now more or less covered with bush of recentgrowth. There are the remains of hundreds of old wells which can beopened with a little labour, and water got at from 50 feet to 90feet. People say that in the old days water was obtained close tothe surface, but that is not so now; I fancy it was rain-water. Inthe dry weather the people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles) get waterfrom Foga. The old road between Foga and Kaja is quite “dead,” butthere is a good road between Kaja Serrug and Kaja.
J. Abu Dugeia1616From Foga you travel N.N.E. about 16miles with no track until you strike the road from Kaja Serrug,near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all through undulating sandy countrycovered with bush; very good grazing ground for camels.
J. Esmein420A small rocky hill on right of track,after this road dips into valley; soil clay, ground flat, thickbush.
828Small rocky range of hills on left ofroad runs parallel with it for 2 miles; country fairly open andundulating.
Khor Neilut Um Kasus533After this, country becomes more open andintersected with small khors which are thickly wooded; ground sandyand a good lot of stones and rock.
Khor Gelti1144Rather broken ground; road good, thickbush; direction changes here E.N.E.
Um Gelti448This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk inbottom of dry basin, very little water and bad.
250Here the bush country ceases and trackleads E.N.E. and E. over sand dunes, very heavy for camels; veryfew trees or shade, but lots of grazing, until J. Bakalai isreached.
J. Bakalai2171The road passes N. side of J. Bakalai andruns nearly E. to Kuku. Um Abu Agaga is 6 miles S.S.W. ofJ. Bakalai—a very indistinct track leading to it—but it can berecognised by groups of small hills (rocks): well is near thefurthest one. This is a good well and has water all the year, butwould not water more than nine camels at a time.
Kuku1990Kuku is a village (two villages) ofblacks on the northern side of J. Kuku. These people have a lot ofland under cultivation, but this year all their crops failed. Theyhave no wells but a good supply of water in tanks on the mountains.These tanks are more or less natural but have been widened andimproved by manual labour, and very large rocks must have beenremoved at some time to make them; the people now know nothingabout how they were originally made or have they any tools to dolike work now. All the Kaja district is covered with the remains ofold villages: it must have been at one time very thicklypopulated.
Kaja Soderi797Is 7 miles off to the E.; road runs alongN. side of mountains for 4 miles, then crosses, and the wells areon the S. side. Here there is a plentiful supply of water: wellsfrom 18 feet to 30 feet. During the kharif there is a large lakehere and the wells are sunk annually in its bed.
The whole country between Foga and Kajais very suitable for camels and the Arabs graze thousands thereduring the rainy season and until the fulas dry up.

88.—NAHUD to EL FASHER.

As far as Dam Jamad by Captain B. C. Carter, thence from Native Sources.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Nahud——See routes [19] and[30.] Nahud is about 310 miles from ElDueim.
Wad Bokhari22Large Gowama village. Wide track, sandysoil. No thick bush.
Wad Shukab68Small Hamar village. Water from Nahud andmelons.
Daglos1018Small Hamar village. A few tebeldis.
Baruda4½22½Ditto.
Track now crosses several sandyridges.
Wad Banda14½37Large Hamar village. Many tebeldi trees.People sell water to travellers. The price varies from 10 burmasfor 1 piastre to 10 piastres for 1 burma (burma equals a largestable bucket). In some places the track now becomes heavy owing tosoft sand.
Sheraya1047⎫
⎪
⎪
⎬
⎪
⎪
⎭		All small places. Here the sandhills open out at intervals into circular flats which arecultivated. The people go to Um Shanga when the water supply fromthe melons and tebeldis is exhausted. Country fairly open and goinggood.
Um Karra4½51½
Daira2½54
Hagera155
Kajana257
Dam Jamad1673Small Hamar hella on the frontier. Thereare 3 other hellas near. Water from tebeldis.
Darfur is now entered.
El Ogud2497Three wells about 100 feet deep; waterplentiful. Inhabitants are Fors.
Jebel El Hella10107Two wells nearly 200 feet deep; waterplentiful. A detachment of three companies of Ali Dinar’s army isquartered here.
A road from Omdurman viâ Kajajoins here.
Burush13120Small Berti village. Four wells about 100feet deep; plenty of water.
Um Kadada15135One large well about 110 feet deep, ormore, but 20 feet of water at the bottom. This depth of water issaid to be constant.
Abiad25160A Geleidat village. Four wells about 90feet deep; water plentiful.
Ergud30190Many wells, water plentiful.
Fashar30220Two wells 150 feet deep; water plentifulin rainy season.
El Fasher16236Capital of Darfur, see Vol. I, [p. 192.]
By road and river, therefore, El Fasheris about 670 miles from Khartoum. Between El Obeid and El Ogud, thefirst wells in Darfur, water is very scarce in the dry season.

89.—NAHUD to BUR ISLAM.

By Captain C. H. Townsend, 18th to 25th December, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Nahud——The track leaves Nahud in a northerlydirection, very soon turning N.N.E. The country is fairly woodedand flat, and covered with long grass in most places.
Abu Marega12½12½Road still running N.N.E., passes throughthis village. It is inhabited by the Hamar tribe and is fair sized.Water from tebeldis but the supply is limited, melons fairlyplentiful.
Ahmed Hamdan29½42Leaving Abu Marega the track winds about,but its general direction is N.N.E. by N. Country rather undulatingand fairly wooded. About 4 miles before reaching Ahmed Hamdan, oneleaves the main track, which runs N.E. to Homedo, and branches offN.E., passing through wooded and undulating country.
Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar villagebelonging to Ahmed Salam, the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water fromtebeldis, which are few in number; good supply of smallmelons.
Wad Kitna648From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W.,country hilly and wooded. Wad Kitna, a very small Hamar villagebelonging to Ahmed Salam. From here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12miles W.
(Returning I did not touch at this placeor Ahmed Hamdan, as they are off the main road.)
Homedo351Between Wad Kitna and this the trackgradually works round N. again and joins the main track close tothis village. The Country is wooded but less hilly. Homedo is asmall village of Hamar people. Water from tebeldis, supplyscanty.
Id?253Track runs N. slightly E., and is welldefined. This is a small Hamar village.
Wad Bakhit1770Road runs N. slightly E., through fairlywooded and slightly undulating country, passing two small Hamarvillages, Mekin and Wad El Beleb, both Hamar, belonging to AbdelRahim Bey Abu Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized Hamar villageunder Sheikh Ibrahim Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal. There is avery good supply of tebeldi water here.
Bur Islam1989Path runs N.N.E., country wooded andundulating, 4 miles from Wad Bakhit one passes a small Hamarvillage, Adam Ahmed, belonging to Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam alsobelongs, the Sheikh at the latter place being Ahmed El Kagauri.From here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are wells close to this village,but the supply of water is limited, owing to the bottom of thewells being rocky, and there are no implements to cut throughit.

90.—NAHUD to FOGA.

By Captain W. Lloyd, October, 1900; and Major E. B. Wilkinson, December, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Nahud——The whole of the road runs through theHamar country.
Bokari44Leaving the suk in a north-westerlydirection the track runs through the Gowama village namedBokari.
Jebel El Kurma4¼8¼Two hills W. of track; to the E. of thenorthernmost hill is the village of Shekaba, 80 huts.
Hella Wad Munfarih2½10¾A small Hamarvillage, 30 to 40 huts. Track continues in same direction till theHamar village of Darglos is reached. The country between Nahud andthis village is open bush with some good trees for timber, but mostof the bush consists of gnarled and twisted ebony bushes of novalue. From here track trends more to W. till village Bakoda isreached. Range of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E. of lattervillage.
Darglos6¾17½
Bakoda6½24
El Gubba10½34½Track now runs N. to Hella El Gubba withJebel Selako to E., and on to
Kinneir2¼36¾Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.
Gemania1½38¼Hella Gemania, 20 huts.
Abu Rasein341¼Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.
Hamdan Tumbel5½46½Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan Tumbel,12 huts.
Gabra753½Track runs N. toHella Gabra (no wells exist), and Hella Zarzur, when track runsN.W. until Hella Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to W. Two wellsgiving a fair amount of water, and many hellas draw their supplyfrom here.
Zarzur2½56
Um Bel4½60½
J. Um Bel1½62
Galusa——Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa, 20huts, and then on to
Foga7¼69¼Foga. See [route 87.]

All villages between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from tebeldi trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There is a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village, but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.

No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not more than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving the inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to the drought there is no crop of water melons.

Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good track.

91.—FOGA to UM BADR.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, December, 1901.

Foga.—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a defensive post, are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine wells giving water, and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are opening more. I have taken accurate measurements of depths of wells, and the depth varies from 50 to 80 feet below the surface. Water is only found in very small quantities at present, no well being able to water more than 30 camels per diem.

In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty rainfall, these hollows are all dry.[31]

There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten to fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep many ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite bare. The feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market for them.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Foga——Leaving Foga, trackbears N. to Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of about thirty huts(Hamar Arabs), and then track bears N.W. through bush on Jebel ElRimr. Good going through country falling for 3½ miles, when a khoris crossed; direction of drainage, N.E.
Wad Guibara1½1½
Jebel El Rimr5½7Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is a rangeof hills running from S.W. to N.E.
Um Goz613½Track still continues through bush N.W.to Hella Um Goz, which consisted of a village of not more thanfifteen huts, but which has recently been burnt by the Furs sent bySultan Ali Dinar to punish the inhabitants, who are Kajawis. Fromhere an excellent view of the country can be obtained for manymiles.
Jebel Zeinat Rowaina1½15Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track leads onto Jebel Zeinat Rowaina, but at 1½ miles I went through the bush.No track on Jebel Taradid, over country which is intersected withmany small water channels (now all dry), but which in the rainswould be impassable for animals. Surface, cotton soil with rank drygrass. Flow of water, N.N.E.
Jebel Taradid722Jebel Taradid, track runs N. through verybroken country, ranges of low hills to W. and E. for miles.
Khor Dormaia426Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and the WadiMelh of the Kababish and Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none of thelocal Arabs know the name Wadi Melh, and informed me it was far tothe N. This khor, 30 to 35 yards broad, takes its course from N.W.in the vicinity of J. El Ain, where there was water (December 4) inkhor. There are signs of a big flood coming down in the rains(banks well wooded); current I should say very rapid, and at timesimpassable, flows N.E., passes J. Habisa, and then bears N.
J. El Sad3½29½From this point trackruns N.N.E. over undulating country, and at 3½ miles J. El Sad ispassed, small watercourse passed, and from here track runsN.E.
231½
Wadi (?)435½At this point a large wadi is enteredbearing S.W., and the track leads down this N.E to
Um Badr2½38Um Badr, which consists of a broad wadivarying in breadth up to 800 yards, which is enclosed on eitherside by hills, and along the bed of which many hundreds of wellsand waterholes have been dug in former times. Wells all filled inby rains; three wells were opened and 20 feet down no waterobtained, and no sign of water visible.
In years when rain is plentiful, I wasinformed by Arabs, water is always obtainable at this depth.Appears to be an excellent place for camels.
No sign of recent habitation; but onridges N.E. are the remains of the scene of the fight betweenDervishes and the Kababish belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta Kabashiin 1887.
No signs of any caravans having passedrecently, and I am informed that none ever do come here owing tothere being no water.

92.—BARA to FOGA.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, July, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Bara——Leaving Bara the track goes due W. overhigh sandy ridges; heavy going to a small village Kidaka, onewell.
Kidaka1111The track turns alittle to the N. of W., and passing through thick thorny bush leadsby a small village, Um Asal, one well. Ten miles further on isMaagla village called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep, good water, agood deal of cultivation.
Um Asal415
El Saata1025
Shireiga1035A good level trackpassing through thick bush leading N. of W., after 10 miles reachesthe village of Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two miles due W. is asmall village called El Shegel Gedidat, one well, a good deal ofcultivation. The track leads N. of W. for 7 miles through thick gumforest, then ends; one now passes between three hills calledGedidat, two on the south and one on the north, through high grassfor 8 miles, then meeting the track going from Shireiga to Geleit,and 11 miles on reaches village of Geleit, near the hill, manywells, little water.
El Shegel Gedidat237
El Geleit2259
Masrub1776A good track leads N.W. over open countryto Masrub, little water.
Gilgil1086A good track leads to Gilgil, a smallvillage; very little water, not drinkable.
Baraeis1096Due N., no track, tovillage of Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of W., no track, andpassing south of and close to Jebel Asal and over a rolling plain,bad going. Meika, goffal, and heglig trees scattered over theplain. After 40 miles reach Hofra. There are three Nuba villages onthe mountain, one about the centre, and two on the southern end; nowells, water bad from pools on north end of hill, no rain thisyear, people living on meika berries, which they grind and use inlieu of grain. Village is on top of mountain. Leaving Hofra andgoing due W. struck track near a rock called Mekareik Abu Gadein,10 miles out, and after another 10 miles passed close to a rockcalled Sheikh El Rifa. Three miles further on the track turns dueS., and after 4 miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6 miles further onreaches mountains called Gerawid El Askanut, said to be half way toFoga. Track now turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel Kanisa on thewest and small hills to the east called Ratak, and passes 2 mileson through the hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on comes to village ofMina in Jebel Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are the wells and camp;little water and not good. Foga is a district. Vide[Route 87.]
Hofra40136
Foga65201

93.—NAHUD to EL EDDAIYA and MUGLAD.

By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O., December, 1901.

N.B.—Distances approximate.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Nahud——The country round Nahud is sandy andundulating; about 5 miles all round is cleared for cultivation.There are many tebeldi trees which are used for water tanks. Thereis a very good supply of well water, wells from 30 to 60 feet deep.Population about 3,500, chiefly Hamar Arabs. Vide alsolater reports.
Hella El Sau55Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin), nowells, but good supply of tebeldi trees. Track is very welldefined, being the main road to Shakka, &c., countryundulating, heavy going for camels, bush thick.
Hella El Garaui49Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.
Hella Um Hashaba312Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but tebelditrees and water melons.
There are no more villages before ElEddaiya, bush thick, chiefly ebony, bad shade, track good, butheavy going for camels and slightly undulating.
Fula2537There is a large fula here, but it wasdry at the beginning of November, very good shade; is a goodhalting place.
1047A broad shallow khor or valley, goodshade and some tebeldi trees; after this you cross an open plateauinto El Eddaiya, there is good grazing on this plateau and niceshade, a capital camping ground.
El Eddaiya552Is a large village or collection ofhellas, and has a mixed population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar (AbuDagal), Bederia and Messeria, besides many small merchants (Jaalin,&c.). It is the starting point for merchants for Bahr El Arab,Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and Shakka.
Camels are very little used S. ofthis.
Water very plentiful and good wells from8 to 30 feet deep; there are remains of many old gardens, and evennow they cultivate onions and other vegetables.
There is a small Government post held byfifty Bashibazuks.
Khor Atrun3½55½Very good shade, no water but afterkharif (rainy season) many fulas. The track is undulating andsandy, but broad and well defined.
Abu Asha and Walad El Seluk459½Both Bederia hellas, no wells, buttebeldi trees and water melons.
Mumu7½67This is a district; many hellas, Homr(Felaita), Sheikh Hamed Yassin, several fulas but all dry by middleof November. No wells, some tebeldi trees, much cultivation. Afterthe harvest is gathered and when the water in tebeldi trees isexhausted, the people move near to El Eddaiya. There are no hellasbetween here and Muglad, it is more or less forest.
673At this point the road branches; the mainroad goes on to Shakka, but take left-hand one S.S.E. to Um Hagarif you want water.
Um Hagar881There are here asuccession of rocky basins. All had some water, the one furthest S.after the rains must have been a considerable lake, and some yearscontains water during the whole year, but, I think, will be dry byend of December this year.
182
1½83½The track, now very indistinct, runsW.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it rejoins main road which we left atmile 73. Country continues the same until about the 86th mile, whenit becomes flat and clay soil; track good and hard going, but allforest.
Um Sidr14½98Large fula. Road branches at Um Sidr;main road to Shakka S.S.W. is much best and shorter, I took the oneto Um Battu, but returned by main road. Gullum now becomescommon.
Um Battu8106Three small wells in dry bed of fula, 8feet deep. These wells could easily be improved, but are not now tobe depended on after 15th December. This, like all the followingplaces, was once a village. Country all bush and very little shadeexcept at these fulas, where there are splendid ardeib trees.
Um Gamadi15121A dry fula and was an old village.
Um Gamadi3124Also called Um Gamadi.
Um Kantor6130Dry fula, there was an old village hereat some time.
Um Gedir11½141½Dry fula; very fine ardeib treeshere.
Um Malis4½146Dry fula, same as above.
Khor El Heggis2148Northern boundary of Muglad district;very small khor, but thickly wooded.
1149Road branches, take right-hand oneS.S.W., the other (main track) S.S.E. is one of the many tracks tothe Bahr El Arab.
Um Shanga1150There is water here in khor and sometebeldi trees (but not filled with water), but this year waterwould be dry by end of December.
3½153½No track for 3½ milesW. through very bushy country, then strike path N.N.W. to HellaEreiga. From here you strike a well-defined path to Moghrabi.
Hella Ereiga1½155
4159Track branches S.W., main track S. toJange, take right-hand one S.W.
Hella Moghrabi5164This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of theHomr, lives.
Um Moghrabi2½166½Large fula, plenty of water.
Um Uerst2½169Large fula and lots of good water. Butnone of these fulas (or rahads, as they call them) can be relied onafter end of December.
There is another road from El Eddaiyafurther W., it is no longer, but goes through very thick forest,impassable for camels, but there are some wells on this road, andit is used in the dry weather.
Muglad——Is a district about 50 miles square, twodays easy from Shakka and two days from Bahr El Arab.
There are many feriks, but no permanentvillages; the people all go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the watergets scarce and the harvest is collected. They store grain on thetops of trees for consumption and seed when they return in therainy season. Population all Homr (Ageira), there are many Rizeigatand a few Maalia when I was there, but they have returned toShakka. There is lots of gum in the district, but they do notcollect it. Wells can be made at 10 feet, but they make none. Ionly saw one well (at Um Ardeib). The people are lazy and poor, butthey have large herds of cattle and sheep.

94—FOGA to EL EDDAIYA, viâ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, and KORDOFAN-DARFUR.

By Captain B. C. Carter, January, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Foga——Vide [Route28.]
J. Kajaserrug——This hill is now deserted. There is abroad track running from J. El Hella (Darfur), viâ J.Adashir into Kaja. This was chiefly used, I think, for lootedcattle. J. Zerga holds water in the rocks, and there is a khorrunning, roughly, E. and W., with tebeldi trees, which were filledin the rains. They were still full in January. J. Zumkhor hastraces of a wall and brick houses, said to have been built by theFungs. Also traces of old wells in the wadi. The bricks are goodand well-burnt. There are similar buildings on J. Sukunja, W. ofKaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib, E. of Foga.
J. Zerga Mima99These villages are built on abare sandy ridge and grow dukhn only. Two miles from Gamania thepath joins road from Foga to Damjamad, which latter is a district,including 4 villages of the same name. These people go to Um Shangawhen the water supply fails.
Gilatt413
Gamania316
Damjamad1430A fair path, after passingsmall village of Dunur, goes through some thick thorn, and in about 8 milesdescends into Wadi Zernak. This wadi is full of tebeldi trees andmay be noted as a base in case of trouble with Darfur. The treeswould hold a very large amount of water, but, of course, would haveto be filled by hand at the proper time.
Zernak1545
Hemir Sibil15½60½Six miles from Zernak the road quits thetebeldi forest and goes over undulating ridges to Hemir Sibil,which depends entirely on melons. There is a good deal ofcultivation.
Tom Wad11½72A small village dependent chiefly onmelons.
Zarug Dagmar7½79½Fair sized village growing a good supplyof dukhn.
Lingu9½89This district is known as Zalatta, from arock which holds rain water.
Edam392Small village.
Gurab7½99½Small village, deserted early, as melonswere scarce. Ridges end and country becomes flat with trees andgrass.
Um Reida8½108Large village with many tebeldis andmelons enough to last till next rains. This is in district calledGhabeish.
Good track all the way to El Odaiya.
Gad el Habub8½116½Small Hamar village. Few tebelditrees.
Wad Domai3½120Village.
Abd el Hai3½123½ „
Sharafa3½127Large Gowama village. Water from tebeldisand from Ogr; a “Hafir” or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to 10 feetdeep, 2 miles south. It holds water until about January.
There is no bad bush from here to ElEddaiya. Good going.
Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El Ogr toDarfur.
Gabralla9138Small village of people from Bornu.
Gariban6144Small Hamar village. Main roads fromTaweisha and Shakka come in here.
Um Sedeir7½151½⎫
⎪
⎪
⎬
⎪
⎪
⎭		All small Hamar villages.
Wad Dunga7158½
Tamba9½168
Sabi12180
Aris7½187½
Wad Dau el Beit5192½
El Eddaiya12204½Vide previous routes.

95.—EL OBEID to NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD).

By Captain E. G. Meyricke, R.E., November, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——The road goes offalmost due W., and runs over an undulating plain, at first open andcovered with dura cultivation, and then covered with small andthorny shrubs. There are several villages to right and left ofroad. Village here consisting of about 60 tukls. From here the roadgoes straight to Jebel Abu Sinun. The water here is obtained fromtebeldi trees, and there are some large fulas some distance away,one of which was not dry in December, although there had beenlittle rain (1903). Four miles further on one arrives at a largefula; it contained no water in December. This road now passes ElAbiad, where water is obtained from a few tebeldis and from distantfulas.
Um Doma1212
Monzuka8¾20¾Monzuka is reached, asmall village, water obtained from tebeldi trees in smallquantities, and about 2 miles further on we came to the remains ofa village which was formerly called Um Banda. The nature of thecountry, throughout undulating, is a sandy plain covered withthorny bushes (notdense) and a few trees, and it remains so until at mile 42 onearrives at Um Sumaima, where there are tukls and people.
Um Sumaima21¼42
Dudia1658There are many fulas on both sides of UmSumaima. The tebeldi trees give only a very limited supply ofwater, but I was told there was a village named Nethrea not far offin a southerly direction, where there was more than one well. Afterleaving Um Sumaima the road passes many fulas and khors, now quitedry. The bush becomes a little thicker and there are many moretrees, but there is no difficulty in clearing. About 7½ miles fromUm Sumaima you see traces of the old telegraph line in the shape ofthe bases of iron poles, one or two of which are still standing,but the majority are lying along the road. Trees are now numerous,and one reaches Dudia at mile 58. There are many tebeldi treeshere, but there is no one living here now.
Huoi13¼71¼The trees are more numerous and the bushthicker here. Huoi like Dudia has many tebeldi trees, and there isa big fula, but there was no water in December. There is no villagehere now and no people.
Merkab2293¼Continuing, the road passes Merkab, avillage started this year (1903). Here there are many tebeldi treesand about 10 tukls. Chickens may be obtained here, but only, say,two at a time. The road here runs through a network of thorny,though small, trees, a good bit higher than a man on a camel, andit would be unpleasant travelling by night.
Manwissa9102¼The thorny trees end before arrival atManwissa, where there is a village, and the country is now coveredwith scattered trees and thin bush.
Um Farigh5½107¾Manwissa, Um Farigh,and Goda are in a district called Sheikh El Dud. All round herethere are dukhn crops; water is obtained from tebeldi trees. Thesevillages are small ones. Goda contains about 60 tukls, while 4miles from Goda, Sudda, a small village, is reached, the face ofthe country remaining unchanged.
Goda2½110¼
Sudda4114¼
Abu Dagal1115¼Abu Dagal is reachedshortly afterwards, and after ascending an elevation on which thetrees are much more numerous, the road descends to Nahud. Water isobtained from wells, but some of it has very acid properties. Thistown is about the same size and of the same population as El Obeid.The country all round is open.
Nahud15½130¾

96.—EL OBEID to NAHUD, viâ ABU ZABBAT.

By Captain W. Lloyd, April and October, 1900, and Captain C. H. Townsend, 1901 and 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——The S.W. road is taken. Good track,little bush. Plenty of grazing. Country slightly undulating. Sandysoil.
Abu Haraz2525Small village. Wells in the khor. Poolsof water last till end of October. There are some in the old townand some in the khor. Latter are best. Good shade. Leaving thevillage the bush becomes thicker, but there is a good track.
Um Geiga732One bad well situated on the side of awide khor. A mile down this khor is Um Gurus. Here there are threewells which generally contain enough water for 30 camels. The sandin the khor is very soft. Leaving Um Geiga the track ascends atfirst. Bush thick, many tebeldi trees about.
Khor Sulfan1042A wide shallow khor. Bush very thick.This khor should be crossed by daylight if possible. The track nowbecomes good, and the bush, though thick, does not interfere withtransport.
El Saata18½60½A ruined Hamar village. Many tebeldisabout, some of which have been used for storing water. Oldwells.
The country now becomes nearly level, andis covered with ebony trees. Good shade when in leaf, but none inthe hot weather. White ants swarm.
Um Galb2282½A small village on the edge of a swamp.The village and wells are 1 mile to the S. of the road. Waterplentiful. The track now passes along a ridge of red sand.
Abu Zabbat688½A Hamar and Bederia village on the sandyhill. To the S. is a large swamp in which are the wells, 25 to 30feet deep. Water usually plentiful. Much dura cultivation. Smallsuk. Many cattle, sheep, and goats. Good rest house.
It is very difficult to find one’s wayout of the village, and a local guide should be taken until themain road is reached, as tracks lead in all directions. The trackbears N.W.
Um Dugran593½A small village; much cultivation about,chiefly dukhn. The track crosses several khors, but none arebad.
J. Howawag32125½A low hill on the S. side of theroad.
Um Regulti6131½A small Hamar village, only occupiedduring the rains. No well. There is a good deal of hashab bushabout. Further on arad trees are met, they have no thorns.
Um Genglit8139½A similar village to Um Regulti.
J. Wad Abu Agala4143½A few low hills to the N. of thetrack.
Nahud10½154For description, see Routes[19,] [30,] and Vol. I,[Chap. VIII.]

97.—EL OBEID to EL EDDAIYA, viâ SUNGIKAI.

By Captain W. Lloyd, April, 1900; and Captain C. H. Townsend, E. Surrey Regiment, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——For route El Obeid to Sungikai,vide [Route 17.]
Sungikai7272The track, which is good, leaves thewells in a south-westerly direction. The country is fairly level,but much cut up by khors. Low rocky hills are seen on all sides.The bush on both sides is thick, but horses can move without muchdifficulty. Many of the hills, now deserted, show signs of formerNuba occupants.
J. Kudr16½88½A Nuba village on the hill. Water on thehill and in a well at the foot. The track now winds between manyhills.
J. Saboi7½96Nearly due W. of J. Kudr. A Nuba villageon the hill. Three wells and some pools. No supplies wereobtainable. The bush becomes thick in places.
J. Kasha14110Large Nuba village on the hill. Aplentiful supply of indifferent water from wells, about one milefrom the village. The inhabitants are fairly well off and some ofthem go to the suk at Abu Zabbat. The men carry spears and rifles;they have a number of the latter.
J. Shifr6½116½A Nuba hill. Water plentiful in wells inthe khor on the N. side of hill, and has much improved. Good camp.The bush continues bad all the way to Kubgr.
El Sinut21137½A depression of black soil. On theborders are many Messeria camps. In the rains the depression is aswamp, covered with long grass and ambach. Sunt trees abound. Thereare many wells about 40 feet deep, which are used in summer. Thereis a small market. During the rains the people wander off to placeswhere there are rain pools and cultivate.
El Seneita9146½The track runs S.W., leaving the villageto the N., and a swamp, similar to El Sinut, containing the wells,to the S. The village is on high ground and on sandy soil. Trackleads S.S.W. through very thick bush.
Toto17½164A swamp, similar to El Sinut. Many wells30 to 40 feet deep, giving a plentiful supply of water. Good shade,some gullum. Many Messeria camps about. Bush thick and the cottonsoil much cracked in places. The track now turns N.W. for two milesand then W. Some cultivation is passed belonging to a smallMesseria village, Ardeb by name, which lies to the N. of thetrack.
J. Kubgr17181There are many wells on the N. side ofthe hill, though only two on the S. side. From here the followingjebels are visible, they are all close and under Mek Abu Dugal ofKubgr:—J. Shenshal, J. Abu Gerein, J. Umbosha, and J. Seigo. To theN. of the hill, and about two miles from it, is a Beni Fadl villagenamed Shallo. The people drink from J. Kubgr. There is a directroad from Kubgr, viâ Shallo, to Nahud.
El Eddaiya30211A collection of villages, all under anOmda, Safi Negm El Din, by name. The main village, which is thelargest, is close to the wells, which are numerous and lie in adepression, and give a plentiful supply of water at a depth of from10 to 30 feet, small hand-wheels being used to draw it up. Thereare many good gardens here and, at certain seasons, a plentifulsupply of vegetables is obtainable. The population is very mixed,there being Homr, Hamar, Messeria, Bederia, also some Dongolawisand Jaalin. The Homr belong chiefly to the Felaita section, andthey have several villages, the chief of these being Mumu, about 12miles W. of El Eddaiya. There is a Bashibazuk post of 50 men here,and a small market. This is the starting point for the Bahr ElArab, Dar Jangé, Dar Fertit, and Shakka. Traders going S. and W.from here proceed on donkeys and cattle, camels being littleused.

98.—EL OBEID to KERAIA (J. TAGALE), viâ JEBEL DAIER.

By Captain J. R. O’Connell, the King’s Shropshire Light Infantry, and Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, January, 1900; with Additions from El Kaimakam J. Butler Bey’s Reports in 1901.

There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on this road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El Rahad. The country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to camels as soon as the rains commence.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——Leaving the Mudiria, there is a goodtrack over level ground to the S. end of J. Deigo. Bush neverthick, but after the rains the going is bad in places.
J. Deigo88Small fula at S. end. Water does not lastafter November. Track now turns nearly S. and bush becomes thicker.Several large deep khors. J. Kordofan on W. of track. There is apool on top of northern peak which lasts till April (i.e.,in 1901).
J. El Sofaia1018Left to E. of track; bush bad andcontinuous, so to El Rahad.
J. Um Dubabat or ElEin220On W. of track. There is a crack in therock near the road which always contains water, said to come from aspring, but by the hot weather water becomes somewhat foul. Thecountry is flat, bush thick, and there are several deep khors.
Arab cemetery1232By the side of a khor.
Khor Um Dagergur1042A broad, shallow khor, which must be veryswampy in the rains.
El Rahad5½47½Near the lake the road divides in two.That to the E. leads to the villages of Sheikh Adam Maznuk, aGowama. The villages are large and have a small market. The lake isabout 2 miles wide and 5 miles long. When it is dry (as it was inJanuary, 1900) wells are dug in the bottom.
Regela547The road to the W. is the main track andpasses through Regela, and near the remains of one of Hick’s forts.Several large khors are crossed.
Khor Abu Habl9½56½Is 50 feet wide and 2 feet deep, but thebanks are flooded in the rains, and it is said to be impassable attimes.
Egeria (in Jebel Daier)460½A Dabab village, situated in a khor in J.Daier. The entrance closed by high stone walls—now broken—near thekhor. Three hellas, and a small market. Wells in the khor, insidethe wall. Plenty of water.
Leaving the village the track crossesseveral khors; bush thick and between high hills.
Kitra464½A small village buried in the hills. Theentrance is between rocks hardly wide enough for a loaded camel.Gowamas and Nubas. Wells inside the village. Cultivation: dura onplain outside.
Moving near the foot of the hills thebush continues thick.
Sitra5½70A village built on the side of the hills.Good wells with more than enough water for 100 camels. J. Daier isnow left, and the track bears E.S.E. over level country, much cutup by khors, many of which are 10 feet deep. The bush is very thickin places. J. Tagale is seen ahead.
Kodi24½94½After crossing several low hills and somecultivation, Kodi is reached. The village is on the top of a hillwhich commands an excellent view in all directions. The wells arein a khor S. of the village, but large parties of animals have togo to a pool 5 miles S. W., where 100 camels watered without anyeffect on the supply. The track there is very bad, being over arocky path through bush.
The road continues to be much broken bykhors. It goes between high hills and through bad bush, and 9 mileson becomes so bad that it is necessary to dismount and lead thecamels for ½ mile.
Morat16110½A small Nuba village buried in the hills.One bad well with little water. J. Abu Dom is seen to the E.
Path crosses many khors and wanders aboutthrough thick bush; Senadre and Julia are left to the W. KhorJulia, 20 feet deep, with steep banks, has to be crossed.
Ruri11121½The track now ascends some 200 feet oversheet rock and then descends among boulders. This took 200 camelsan hour and a half to cross.
Duris1122½A small hella on the side of thehill.
Keraia (J. Tagale)2½125On descending on to the plain the trackpasses over level country covered with thick bush. It bears almostdue S., and suddenly turns W. into a large cove, the entrance towhich is between narrow rocks. There is a good camping groundinside and fair wells. The village and market is up the hill.Keraia is a large place. Mek Geili has a large and well-built housethere. There are also springs of water near the top of the hill.The camels, however, had to be sent to some wells in a big khor 7miles further S., as these springs only give enough water for theinhabitants.

99.—KERAIA to RASHAD, and thence to J. GEDIR.

As far as Rashad, by Captain J. R. O’Connell and Captain W. Lloyd, January, 1900; Remainder by El Kaimakam J. Butler Bey, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Keraia (J. Tagale)——Leaving the wells at the bottom of thehill the road turns south along the foot of the hills, crossingmany small khors flowing westwards. Much dura cultivation seennear.
Khor66A large khor, 50 yards wide, coming outof the hills and turning north-east. A mile up this khor areseveral good wells. Watered 250 camels there.
The road now enters a narrow valley;thick jungle for 3 miles, and then ascends a steep hill. Camelshave to be led. Hill terraced for cultivation; now deserted (1900);signs of elephant. Ground stony in places. Many khors, but notdifficult to cross. High trees shut out all view. Nine miles fromthe khor descends a hill, and the road crosses a series of ridgesand khors. Much bush.
Khor El Fedala1319A deep khor. Camel corps had to dismount.Ridges and khor continue, but track improves.
Mernia625Ruined village. Two wells, good water.Jebel of same name near. Road passes between J. Mernia and J. AbuShok on to a level plain. J. Rashad seen due west.
Rashad631Large Nuba village in a valley; both endsclosed by strong sangars. Water quite near the surface in January,1900, but dirty; watered 200 camels. In February, 1902, water wasvery foul. Good shade and grazing. Road turns south; rocky inplaces.
J. Tendik1546Head-quarters of District. Nubas. Well atfoot of hill, road to east of jebel. Fair track.
J. Turum9½55½Track crosses jebel; very bad going.Well. Nubas and Kenana Arabs. Fair going. Four or five miles on alarge forest of deleib palms is entered and continues toGurun.
J. Gurun2075½Well and village of Kenana Arabs. Trackpasses by many disused wells. Very stony in places.
Khor Wad el Hileisa25100½Flows south-east. Good track to villagenorth-west of J. Gedir, leaving J. Girada, inhabited by KenanaArabs, to the east. Then very bad track to Mek Bosh’s village,south of J. Gedir. Two wells.
J. Gedir26126½Village protected by sangars.

From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200 camels.

100.—KAKA (KARWA) to J. GEDIR.

By Colonel B. Mahon Bey, D.S.O., 8th Hussars, October, 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Karwa——Site of camp on left bank White Nile justS. of Kaka. Good camping ground S.E. of village.
The track leaves the river and runspractically W.N.W., but winds greatly through trees, bush, scrub,and high grass, which requires clearing for camel transport orguns.
6½6½Track continues W.N.W. over a veryextensive shadeless plain, covered with grass 3½ to 5 feet high,but not thick. Until beaten down or burnt, this grass makesmarching difficult for infantry.
Domat, or Domaia, or El Zeif814½There has been a lot of water at Domat,but it is now (Oct.) practically dried up.
At Domat there are two or three groups ofdom palms, which show up well and can be seen for a long distance.From here the hills of Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing about 275°magnetic.
From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles, thereis no track, but, if from the largest group of dom palms on left oftrack you march due W. magnetic after going about 2 miles, a thickclump of dark green bush is seen on the skyline at about 3½ milesdistant, and on the same bearing. A few degrees to the right of theclump, the hill of Fungor can be seen from the same point.
Mohabia or Hobobia5¾20¼Beyond Mohabia, the above-mentioned clumpof bush, J. Fungor cannot be seen again until you arrive withinabout 2 miles from it, except from one point, viz.: Sahab.
From Domat to the commencement of theforest a plain is crossed covered with grass from 3 to 5 feet high.From Mohabia on, the track is again visible through grass, asbefore.
At 22¾ miles the edge of the forest isreached. Track winds through forest and undergrowth, the latter notvery thick. Timber much injured by fire. No good shade.
Sahab4½24¾There was water till recently here; now(Oct.) dried up. J. Fungor visible bearing 275° magnetic.
Track through forest as before.
Safa, or Sufa8¾33½Fine trees giving excellent shade atSafa. Two pools of water in sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards longby 16 yards wide, and 9 inches deep, the other, circular, 20 yardsin diameter, and 9 inches deep. If the water remains as at present,enough to water all our animals.
Path continues distinctly marked andthrough forest without much undergrowth except where one or twograssy khors are crossed. Very good ground for marching.
Within 1 mile of Fungor, country has beencleared for cultivation, and there is some dura and highgrass.
J. Fungor1245½Very good camping ground N.E. of thecentre hill and close to the water.
Several large tanks of good water werefound besides several smaller ones of still better water amongstthe rocks on the hill side. With the assistance of a heavythunderstorm the water supply was ample for two battalions, 500cavalry, and some Camel Corps and transport for 3 or 4 days inOctober, 1899. In fact no impression was made on it.
The village is situated on the E. side ofthe central hill, which is about 350 feet high. The hill is verysteep and difficult to ascend with boots. The inhabitants arealmost all Nubas. Mek’s name Khalil. There are also some AuladHameid under Sheikh Idris.
For the first 2 miles the path windsthrough high grass and very thick bush, crossing one small khor,containing water from previous night’s rain. The bush is of lowsunt, and was evidently once a clearing.
247½The path passes to the right of some lowrocky hills, after which the forest opens out, and the trees,chiefly heglig and acacia, are bigger. The soil is sandy, grassvery low, and little undergrowth.
2½50At about 4½ miles the track is oppositethe S.E. end of the Kau range, which is a ½ mile on the right.Country fairly open; going very good.
Kau2½52½The village of Kau is on the W. slope ofJ. Kau. It contains about 500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks; neithermen nor women are clothed. Most of the houses are built high upamongst the rocks. Water obtainable from crevices on the rockyhillside. A good many dom palms near the village. A space of about10 feddans to W. of hill was formerly cleared, but is now overgrownwith small dom palms, about 4 feet high. After leaving Kau, thetrack winds through open forest, the trees improve in size, andmore tropical plants are seen. Large numbers of bamboos, ofapparently very good quality, grow in clusters along the smallkhors. Soil light and sandy.
5¾58¼Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil becomesheavy clay, and the grass is higher. The path winds a good deal,and is full of holes caused by subsidence after rain. It would benecessary to clear a track for guns or transport for the next 1¼miles, after which the path improves and the going is sounder.
Shag el Hagar3¼61½Here there are two large rocks; thehigher, about 50 feet in height, commands a good view; the lower,about 12 feet high, contains a large supply of water in four largeand several small natural tanks, three of these are each about 60feet long and 6 feet to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth from 2 feetto 4 feet. The fourth is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide, and from 4feet to 6 feet deep. The water is excellent; 550 men and 420 horseswere watered twice in 36 hours at these tanks and made littleapparent difference in the supply. As there is no catchment area,except the surface of the rock, it looks as if the tanks were fedby springs. Should the source of supply be capable of giving morewater, the amount retained could be easily increased by building asmall dam across the end of the large tank, which would increasethe depth to 9 feet. One of the other tanks could be similarlytreated, but the result would not be so great. Horses must bewatered from buckets.
Country around is covered with fairlyopen forest of good-sized trees, with a little undergrowth. Nobamboos were noticed after this.
For about 3 miles the track continuesthrough forest. At 19 miles it reaches a large open glade about 2miles wide, with very few trees, and with grass 3½ feet high. It isapparently a clearing made at some time by fire. Track thencontinues through open forest of very fine trees, many of which aretabeldi (Adansonia).
Khor Goz El Tabeldi7¼68¾On this occasion, owing to the recentrain, there was sufficient water in this khor to water the men andhorses, but water cannot be counted on. Country remains open; treesscattered, but sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet to 8 feethigh.
Khor El Waja4¾73½This is a grassy khor, about ¼ mile wide,quite dry, but said to hold water during rains. It is intersectedby narrow water channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep. The khor, whosesoil is black clay, would be a serious obstacle to troops in therainy season, and would, I think, be impassable for guns andtransport while in flood.
Khor Melisa174½This is a sandy khor about 17 yards wide,with steep banks 10 feet to 14 feet deep, said to come from J.Girada. In the rains it must be a considerable obstacle. Thecountry continues open, but with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet high,to within 2¾ miles of Gedir, when a belt of thick acacia and kittrscrub, 1¾ miles in width, is crossed. For guns or pack animals, itwould be necessary to clear a path through this belt.
About 1½ miles from Gedir, the sandykhor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and 6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to comefrom J. Girada, is crossed. The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open groundwith few scattered trees.
J. Gedir7¾82¼A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill, estimatedaltitude above the plain 600 feet. The village is on there-entrant. Near the gorge are two wells about 80 feet deep, with alittle water. No other water was seen. There are about 500inhabitants. Many of the men have rifles. They are not naked likethose of Kau, and appear to be a cross between Arabs andNubas.
The Mahdi’s Stone is a large boulder upthe slope of the hill, outside of, and about ½ a mile from thenorthern heel of the horseshoe, and on the way to Girada, of thesame colour as the surrounding rocks, and shaded by a heglig tree,which may account for the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No cultivationwas seen, but the inhabitants said they had some dura fieldsripening.
Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7 milesdistant. It is said to have a plentiful water supply.

101.—EL OBEID to DAR EL JANGE.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid——Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs in aS.S.W. direction, and at 1½ miles distance further on reaches thesouthern edge of the El Obeid basin, and low acacia bush and anoccasional baobab tree take the place of dukhn cultivation.
Track to El Atshan Wells55At 5 miles distance from El Obeid, abroad track runs in a S.W. direction to El Atshan wells, which aresituated in Khor Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.
The road to El Merekib continues in thesame direction, viz., S.S.W., and one passes through the same kindof bush with sandy soil until the village is reached. Theinhabitants consist of Bederia and Ghodiat Arabs.
El Merekib510There is a well here, but the supply ofwater is very small. Dukhn is cultivated around the village.
J. Fertangul6½16½The road continues ina S.W. by S. direction until J. Fertangul is reached. There are twosmall hills of the same name; one E. of the road, and 6½ milesdistant from Merekib, and the other on the W. of the road, and 8miles distant from Merekib. The crest of latter is crowned withwhite limestone.
1½18
Khor Fertangul119One mile from the hill, Khor Fertangulwith wells in its bed is reached.
524Khor.
Khor Kashgil1½25½Khor Kashgil with good shade andgrazing.
El Edeidat9¾35½Here road changes direction to S.S.E.,and runs through thick bush for 9¾ miles until khor crosses road;this place is known as El Edeidat. There are two wells in khor.(Plenty of water March, 1904.)
Hella Abdel Samad540¼Road runs S. from here, and 5 miles on atrack runs S.E. to Hella Abdel Samad, which is about 1 mile off themain road.
El Birket2¾43One and three-quarter miles on road turnsdue W., and 1 mile on brings one to El Birket; there are twovillages here consisting of Bederia Arabs who have a good deal ofland under cultivation. Here there is a large lake or reservoir,which I am informed contains much water for eight months in theyear, but owing to this year being exceptionally dry there was nowater (February, 1902), and wells sunk in the centre 24 feet deepwere also dry. The area of this reservoir is probably 2 squaremiles. Good timber and shade on the southern edge of the lake.
From here the road runs S.W. throughthick bush, and the soil changes to black cotton soil.
El Edaiya Faki Yasin750The district known as El Edaiyacommences, and Hella Beni Fadl is reached.
Um Seneina2¾52¾Hella Um Seneina.
Abu Habl3¼56Khor Abu Habl isreached at Sessaban. This district is inhabited by Bederia Arabs;each village has a certain amount of land cleared and undercultivation (dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here about 15 to 20 yardsbroad, with high banks varying from 15 to 20 feet with good timbergrowing along them. A few wells are sunk at Sessaban, but thesupply of water was not sufficient to allow of animals beingwatered (8.1.02).
Um Sessaban
H. El Daruta3½59½H. El Daruta (Bederia), J. Belgulti andFainar visible from here.
261½Track runs W., and
H. Balamat162½Hella Balamat is reached.
Kururra2½65Khor Abu Habl is again struck at Kururrawell, which is situated under a very fine gemmeiza tree, and givesa large quantity of water.
Well, 80 feet to water, and there was 20feet of water in it. Kururra village ½ mile E. of well, Bederia,also water at this well. Hawazma Arabs.
Sungikai368Wells of Sungikai—four in number, 72 feetdeep in khor; banks of khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large population ofHawazma Arabs.
Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.
From Sungikai village a much used roadruns N.N.W. to El Obeid, passing through El Atshan wells in KhorFertangul, distance 48 miles.
Zeriba El Aguz or H. El Birgid2½70½Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters a veryrich district. Road runs S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid (Bederia)is reached, and villages occur almost every mile till El Nila isreached. There is much cultivation in this district; theinhabitants (Hawazma) possess many cattle, and N. of Nila there isexcellent timber.
El Nila5½76At El Nila there are six wells,average 42 feet deep, giving excellent supply of water, and manyhundreds of cattle, sheep and goats water there daily. Finegemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig trees. Four to five Arab(Ferikgs) or settlements. Khor 20 yards between banks, which inplaces are 22 to 25 feet broad. All along bank there is very goodtimber.
Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E.direction, there is an excellent and much used road to J. Watta,distant 30 miles, first 10 miles good shade, after that none.
J. Dilling[32]1591Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W. and after13 miles through forest of heglig and talh, and over cotton soilsbring one to J. Dilling, consisting of a group of hills; thicklypopulated by Nubas who build their little conical huts in groups insuitable recesses among the boulders high up in the hills.
½91½Half a mile S.W. wells in khor; khor 25to 30 yards broad; good shade and grazing; good camp ground.
J. Abu Sebah495½Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a smallrocky hill ½ mile from khor along which there is a small populationof Hawazma Arabs, who have dug wells, four in number, in khor,depth 21 feet to water. Deleib palms were first seen betweenDilling and this, and the country intervening is cleared andcultivated.
From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan runsS.E. over cotton soil for first four miles. Open bush and thentalh, heglig bush, &c.
J. Samasen15110½J. Samasen is passed, and
4114½Four miles on, onereaches the foot of hills where soil becomes more gravelly, andcontains a lot of detritus and broken rock, which makes goingharder for camels. The road trends S. and then W., winding overspurs from the main hills and passing over large areas which arecultivated with dura, eventually entering between the hills crownedwith many Nuba villages and Gulfan is reached.
J. Gulfan3117½
Here there was very little water. Wellsmere holes 6 feet to 8 feet, and having a very slow yield. Hillsare here terraced to the top, and dura grown in large quantities.The terraces are most carefully made and walls of stone arebuilt.
From Gulfan the road runs W. over rock,and going is bad, as one is continually ascending and descendingspurs.
2119½Two miles afterleaving, wells (mere holes in the ground, about 6 feet deep) arepassed, the road now running between two ranges of hills, and thereis an Arab settlement. J. Tarda is left on the N. and J. Watta 4miles N.E., and road turns S. and S.W., following the contour ofthe southern range of hills, and ½ mile on a road branches, runningN.E. to J. Watta, which is inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.
J. Tarda1120½
½121
The road to J. Watta runs N.E. throughthick bush for 4½ miles, and crosses a khor close to the hill.There are many wells, but most give very little water which,however, is of good quality. The road to Kadaro and El Obeid fromS. passes through here; and also there is an excellent road toNila, running N.N.W. through talh and jungle. This road is greatlyused by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate N. annually. Six miles afterleaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is left on E., 3 miles off road, and at16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla is passed, 1 mile W. of road. Noshade for 20 miles, then good shade and grazing; total distance toNila 30 miles.
Katta2½123½Nuba village Katta is passed, and thereis an Arab settlement close by. Much dura is cultivated. J. Sheibunand Um Heitan is visible.
2125½A large rocky hillwith jagged crest; low bush, no shade. Here road runs S.S.W., and2¼ miles on khor is passed which had water in a hole under S. bankon 21.2.02. Road continues in same direction and the country isvery much the same as before, talh and heglig, only the soil ismore gravelly until Khor Debri and Debri wells, 6 feet deep, arereached. Leaving Debri wells, where there is a small hill, roadruns S.W. for 2 miles, and ¾ mile further S.
2¼127¾
9½137¼
J. Debri2¾140J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of the samename is passed. Here much land is cleared and dura cultivated atthe foot of hills.
J. Kega2142Two miles south of Debri road bends toW., skirting the foot of the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is reached.This is a large conical hill, part of W. chain of other features,and up the sides of which the Nubas have built their huts, somesituated right on the top, at the foot of which and in there-enterants are also many huts belonging to them and also Arabs.There is a well here but the water is very bad.
Khor Kega2144Two miles on KhorKega is reached, which flows from J. Kega el Abiad and Kega Libu.There are six wells in bed of khor, which is 20 yards wide, 6 to 8feet deep; water good and abundant, good shade and grazing. Muchdura is cultivated in the plain, and there is an Arab (Hawazma)settlement. Crossing Khor Kega road runs roughly S. over cottonsoil with talh and heglig forest, and at 3½ miles Khor El Kuek iscrossed.
Khor El Kuek3½147½
Hella Daud12159½Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to 40 hutsbelonging to Hawazmas, who cultivate dura and have much groundcleared. From here to S.W. the Miri range and J. Demik and Kega HegEl Kheil are visible. Water is transported from wells in a khor E.of village at the foot of J. Tesein Dhanat.
J. Kadugli7166½After continuing S. through the same kindof forest and crossing many small watercourses which flow W. fromthe hills, the road skirts the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli isreached. Here there is a population of Nubas and Hawazma Arabs. TheMek of the Nubas is named Rehal, and he exercises power over allthe surrounding hills. The whole of this range of high hillscontaining J. Tesem Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli, is known bythe name of El Goghub. J. Sabori, to the W., is alsoinhabited.
From KADUGLI toKEILAK.
Khor Kadugli½167Leaving the camp at the foot of J.Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile on brings one to the khor of thesame name. Here there are three groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. ofArab village there are a group of some half a dozen wells,principally used by Arabs. (2) Central group, live wells 6 feetdeep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile down stream and S., two wells 6feet deep, used by the Mek’s immediate household; all give a goodsupply of water. There is very good grazing all along the khor.Much dura cultivated.
J. Kaffari2169J. Kaffari is passedS. of road which runs W. through much dura cultivation and alongthe banks of Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri range. Road passesnow between low range of hills, and continues W. by S. for 5 milesthrough level plain covered with heglig, talh, and haraz forest,with clearings for dura cultivation, with the hills close in oneither side forming a narrow gorge scarcely 200 yards wide, downwhich runs a khor some 10 to 15 yards broad. The ground being rockyit is very bad going for camels and bulls.
1170
5175
¾175¾
Gorge turns abruptly S., and roadcontinues on through pretty scenery in a W. direction over a rockysaddle-back, and then one gradually descends into a valley in whicha large and important khor rises which feeds Lake Keilak, andenters the Bahr El Arab. Water here obtained by digging in the sandin bed of khor.
Plain surrounded by green vegetation; goodtimber, and there is much land cleared for dura cultivation. Thehills are terraced to the tops and dura grown on them.
Tuluk5180Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu Sekin,is reached, and there are many groups of villages in thesurrounding hills; some low down near the foot, others perched highup near the crests. Here, surrounded on all sides by hills, is alarge open area of ground with water within 2 feet of the surface,probably 1½ square miles of rich soil, which, if only tilled, wouldgrow almost everything. The Nubas only require dura, however.
J. Kufa3183Leaving Tuluk the track runs along sideof khor, which now runs S.W., and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with severallarge villages, is passed. Here roads divide; one, following khor,passes through plain much cultivated with dura by the Nubas of J.Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The khor here is walled across at intervalswith large stones to hold back the water in the rains. Khor emergesfrom the hills at J. Kania.
J. Abu Sinun2185The second road runs S.S.W. to J. AbuSinun, where there are two Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia, and aHomr (Felaita) village. Water obtained from khor.
J. Kanga3188Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the southernside of which hill is fortified by a 6-feet stone wall, crowned bya zeriba to guard the Nubas from raids by the Homr Arabs. The hutsare high up the hill. Khor emerges here between two hills, and isnow 20 to 25 yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in khor; water good.Looking S. about 20 miles off are two hills, and beyond as far asthe eye can reach to the S. and W. is a dead level plain coveredwith forest. From J. Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and for 1½ milesthere is dura cultivation.
1189Khor crosses road, and cotton soil takesthe place of rocky decomposed gravel. The forest is of largergrowth—talh and heglig, and the tracks of animals which havestruggled through the deep mud that exists in the rains becomevisible.
3½192½Road again crosses khor, and long grasshinders any view.
2½195Road crosses outlet from Lake Keilak,which now becomes visible, and then goes due W. for two miles whenKeilak is reached.
Keilak2197Keilak is a series of groups of tuklsbadly built and inhabited by Homr Arabs who possess few flocks, afew horses, and appear to live on the Nubas.
The limits of the lake are very difficultto determine, as for 2 miles on N.E. and N. sides long grass 8 feethigh hides all view, but from what can be observed by riding roundthe length was computed to be 4 miles and the breadth 2 miles. On22.1.02, there was a very large expanse of open water, and thenatives reported it to be considerably over a man’s height indepth. In order to reach the open water one has to wade through abroad fringe of green grass and lilies. Soil surrounding lakeexcellent, rich soil and water could be found a mile from edge, 6feet below surface. The forest on S. and W. sides very good, andthere are some really fine timber trees.
2199Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2miles then S.S.E., and numerous Arab settlements are passedsituated along the outlet of the lake.
El Geref4½203½4½ miles El Geref; Homr settlement; herethere is water in any quantity, 8 paces broad with grass andwater-lilies covering the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet deep inplaces. Current very slight; Arabs clear spaces and fence themround for fish to collect in.
1¼204¾Road then goes S.W.for 1¼ miles, then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a broad swamp, dry atdate of crossing (25.1.02), but covered with long grass and pittedwith elephant tracks, which were terrible pitfalls for the baggageanimals. After crossing this bit of country, track runs S.W., alongedge of bed of river, which was dry, and going became better, andwhen track ran on the slightly elevated edge of forest; the soilwas sandy and going good until El Yoi was reached. Along immediateedge of river, forest very good. To the E. and W. away from river,talh and heglig forest and cotton soil.
2½207¼
El Yoi20¾228
At El Yoi two pools were found, containinggood water sufficient for our wants, but likely only to last for afew days. Ground here much cut up and intersected by small waterchannels, while soil was baked hard and cracked in all directions,making it most difficult for bulls and donkeys to travel. At El Yoiitself, good shade and fine trees; forest in neighbourhood and toS. consists of talh, and ground covered with long grass.
El Dirkoei7¾235¾Road continues S.W., and after 7¾ miles,El Dirkoei is reached; this place merely a reach of the river,which at the time contained a little water.
El Debekir3½239¼Three and a-half miles S.W., El Debekirwas reached. Here there was an Arab (Homr) settlement; water in bedof river, 8 feet deep in places and covered with grass (27.1.02),but dry on 11.2.02.
13¾253From Debekir roadruns over black cotton soil very much fissured. W. by S. for 13¾miles, then S.S.W. for 3 miles when heglig forest is entered and ElAnga on river is reached. Here there is an Arab settlement, andthere was a little water (28.1.02).
El Anga3256
Kuek5½261½Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and S. for3¾ miles when Kuek is reached. Here the river is 50 yards broad,and the water was from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet deep, but coveredwith grass. Large Arab settlement and many cattle.
H. Debib6267½Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when H. Debibis passed; a few Homr Arabs living here; but in the rains there aremany wells; one well 6 feet deep, water good.
General run of road now S.S.W. to S.
Fula Hamadai3½271Fula Hamadai with a little watersufficient to water animals on 30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Smallvillages—mere collection of three or four huts passed at El Jaartand Um Geren.
Fut11¾282¾Eleven and three quarter miles from FulaHamadai, village named Fut was passed. Country here more open andlower bush; going better, and road crosses river bed; dry and longgrass.
Fauwel4286¾Fauwel is reached. Large Arab settlement;much water in river, and an open expanse 1¾ miles surrounded byreeds. Geese and waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very wild, but possessmany cattle, goats and sheep.
8¾295½Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾ milesS.S.E. and strikes the river, then continues to run alongside of itfor 2 miles, when the river takes a bend N.E. The river here isvery broad, 300 yards in places and the water is 3 feet 6 inchesdeep, generally the surface is covered with grass and weeds, andvery little open water is seen. The trees on bank are also muchbigger.
Bahr El Arab5300½The Bahr El Arab here has to be crossed,and this was done at a point where it was 120 yards broad, withwater 3 to 3 feet 6 inches deep, the baggage bulls being unloadedand the baggage being carried across by hand. Bed of river verymuddy.
From this point, which is known to theArabs, as the district of Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as far ascould be judged.
Track now runs S., and at 5 miles dividesone running S.S.W. to the country of a Dinka chief called Rueng,the other S.S.W. leads over a wide plain covered with long grassand a few bushes; surface of ground much fissured and soil much cutup.
Country changes to forest after somemiles.
Bongo14¾315¼The first Dinkavillage of Bombo is reached. This district is now known as Bongo,and 3 miles on, S.W., is one of the villages of Tehak, another ofthe same name being met 2½ miles on.
3318¼
Tehak2½320¾
These villages, neatly built, are used bythe Dinkas in the rains and as long as the water lasts. At thepresent date, 2.2.02., all the inhabitants had left and weregrazing their herds of cattle where grass and water were to befound.
Etai2322¾Reached Etai, where the first Dinkas weremet. Here there were large settlements, and the people were mostfriendly. A chief named Lor has his headquarters here. A largewatercourse flows in from N.E. and meets another watercourse, theRegabet El Lau, which comes from N.W., and then joining runs intothe Kir, or Bahr El Jange, in a southerly direction.
Kir, or Bahr El Jange5½328¼Road continues for 3 miles through forestS.W., then runs W. for 2½, miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr ElJange, is struck, as one reaches the settlements of SultanRob.
The river here is a most pleasant sightafter the monotonous red talh forest and long grass, and is 80yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to 15 feet deep, current 1½ miles anhour. Banks low but firm, with green rushes and grass along theedges. In the rains the banks are flooded and the river widens to200 to 400 yards. There are a few dugouts here; the natives saythat canoes can go in open water to the Bahr El Ghazal. Fish areplentiful, as are also crocodiles and hippos.
The district on N. bank is called Mareg.The district on S. bank is called Masian, and the Sultan Rob livesin the latter. Much dura is cultivated.

102.—RIVER KIR to FAUWEL.

By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January and February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
2¼—Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement the roadruns N.W., and the river is left on the left, but is struck again2¼ miles on, and the path keeps along the left bank. The countryhere is all open, and much dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings aredotted about, and the country presents a most prosperousaspect.
Gohea2¾5Village of Gohea onriver bank, which here has become overgrown with reeds, grass,&c. River here turns to N.W., and road now runs N.E. for 2¾miles, then E. by N.
2¾7¾
18¾One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming infrom N. and running S.
El Niat1¼10The commencement of a large swamp, nowdry, called El Niat, but covered with long grass, and going is verybad.
4½14½End of El Niat.
1½16Direction of road changes to N.
Gulmaia9¼25¼Gulmaia, a pool containing very badwater; almost dried up.
Abu Kareit429¼Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homrsettlement. River here 100 yards broad, with water 2 feet 6 inchesdeep covered with grass; river here flows E. and W.
Mellum4¾34Track follows river bank.
Mellum, an Arab settlement, with KhorFamai running in from N.
Regabet El Shaib6½40½River now flows W. by N., and 6½ miles onRegabet El Shaib; flows in the N. from river; now bends S.W., andenters district called Bara. Immediately at this point flows inKeilak El Yoi; and Fauwel flows in from N.E.
Fauwel3¼43¾From Regabet El Shaib road runs N.E., andanother 3¼ miles N. brings one to Fauwel.

General Description of BAHR EL ARAB and DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID to SUNGIKAI, viâ EL ATSHAN and EL HAMADI.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid55After leaving El Obeid in a southerlydirection, road divides, going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to ElAtshan.
Road continues in S.S.W. direction, andthorn bush does not impede travelling; going generally good.
El Atshan1722El Atshan wells are reached, 22 milesfrom El Obeid; quite dry—20.4.03.
Leaving El Atshan, road divides S.S.E. toKadero, S.W. to El Hamadi; country generally open bush and goodgoing. Two khors with fine timber are crossed.
El Hamadi1840El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from ElAtshan. On 20.4.03 there was a little water in shallow wells inkhor; it took about 2 hours to get two burmas. On 5.6.03 there wasno water.
El Nebag747Leaving El Hamadi,road goes S.W.; at first a good deal of thorn bush, till passing ElNebag, which is a depression with many magnificent trees and inwhich there is water in the rains. After passing El Nebag the roadopens out, and the going is good and hard. After travelling 18miles from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a shallow khor with some goodshade, is reached. Half a mile before reaching El Hagiz road isjoined by road from Um (Girban) Durban.
Khor El Haigiz1158
Sungikai, H. Gaghgagh1270Road continues in a S.W. direction tillSungikai is reached. The hella is 2 miles from the wells. Unlimitedwater.

N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.

104.—DILLING to EL OBEID, viâ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN and UM RAMAD.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall, June 1903 and March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dilling (Nuba)——The road from Dillingto Sungikai soon after passing Jebel Dilling separates from theDilling-Nila road and keeps W. of it. The general direction isN.E., the road is good going and fairly free from thorns. There area few patches of black cotton soil; after 10 miles the road crossesthe Khor Abu Habl,[33] and continues N.E. till Hellet Gad elKerim is reached.
Gad El Kerim (Hawazma)1616
Sungikai (Zeriba El Aguz)622The inhabitants of this village drinkfrom the wells at Nila, except during the rains, when they drinkfrom pools in Khor Abu Habl. The road keeps up on the rising ground, passingnumerous villages till the largest village in the immediateneighbourhood of Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is reached.
Sungikai (H. Gaghgagh)224Leaving this village the road fromSungikai after being joined by roads from the numerous surroundingvillages continues in a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is reached, ½mile after passing which the road divides N.N.E. to Um Durban. Theroad, after passing to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes H. Gaghgaghand thence to El Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um Durban and E. toEl Hamadi.
Um Durban (Kenana)2448The road is at first very winding with agood deal of shok, after about 6 miles it opens out, and continuesfair till Um Durban is reached; where on 5.6.03, there was a littlewater from wells in khor; in March 1904, the water had driedup.
Leaving Um Durban the road goes N.E.,after about 6 miles Hellet Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to the W.of the road.
Um Ramad (Bederia)3078The road continues in the same directionN.E., the going being uniformly good and free from shok, except ina few depressions and khors till after some 24 miles, when the soilbecomes heavy red sand, which continues till Um Ramad is reached.At this village there are numerous shallow wells and water holes,but they were quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of water 1.5.04. Thepeople drink from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road from Um Durbanjoins the Abu Haraz road ½ mile from Um Ramad.
After passing Um Ramad the road broadensout into a track about 15 feet wide, and continues in a N.E.direction till El Obeid is reached.
El Gika583Five miles after leaving Um Ramad, thefirst El Gika village is passed ½ mile to the left of the road.Plenty of water 1.5.04.
El Obeid1194There are five villages at El Gika, eachabout a mile from the other; the road to El Obeid from El Gika runsparallel to the Abu Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins it about 3miles from El Obeid. On this road from Sungikai there is verylittle shade, except at the villages.

105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.

By Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th (P.W.) Hussars, December, 1903-March, 1904.

(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Tendik——Large Nuba village of 1,200people. Most of the village is built in a hollow about 600 feet upthe jebel and on a ridge above it. Good water up on the mountain,also good below, where there is a garrison of half company 12thSudanese. Quiet, peaceable people; much cultivation; sheep andgoats, but not many cattle. A big khor runs along E. and S. ofjebel, through dense deleib palms. The road runs nearly due S., andcrosses the big khor at 2 miles—re-crossing it again almost atonce.
—5A jebelabout 30 feet high on W. Cross a ridge and a khor a mile furtheron. All good going over gravel.
16
17
18Crossanother khor, when road runs between parallel ridges of stony hillsfor 2¼ miles, when the Khor Sesaban is reached.
2¼10¼
J. Odam1¼11½A small hill, 400 feet onright. Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.
Khor Ardeib1½13
For 5½ miles there is a rangeof low hills on right of road and for the next 5½ a low range onleft of road.
1124Cross a khor.
Khor Nueila125A milefurther on, and the Khor Nueila is reached. The main channel about15 feet deep and 30 yards wide. Beyond is a swampy track 600 yardsacross, with pools of water (December, 1903), biggest 100 yardslong and 3 feet deep. Good clear water. Much game; tracks of lionand leopard. Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen. Elephants live abouthere in rains. After crossing swamp, track leads up on to higherground, crossing a small khor, and at 1½ miles and further anotherkhor.
1½26½
1½28
½28½A small hill on right.
½29Cross khor.
½29½A hill on right, cross theKhor Id El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards wide.
1¼30¾Small hill on right.
131¾Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feetdeep, 20 yards wide.
132¾Small hill, J. Gelabi, onright.
Khor Hash Hashi3¼36A little water still standingin marshy ground behind main channel, which is 12 yards broad and10 feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½ miles there are low hills onleft of road.
J. Thaba440J. Thaba on right of road,cone-shaped hill, with bald, smooth top, about 70 feet. A goodlandmark.
Khor Um Idara343Khor Um Idara, plenty ofwater here now. Tracks of lion. As usual, swarms of guinea fowl.Main channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep.
3½46½Khor Um Aleik, shallow,broad, sandy khor.
J. Obni1¼47¾J. Obni, half a mile away onright of road.
¾48½Khor Dabdub—small.
J. Doga½49J. Doga, 1 mile away on rightof road—jagged top.
J. Lukka3¾52¾Road curves round to right ina wide sweep and enters valley at foot of mountain. (Described inKologi-Lukka road.)
(ii.) J. Lukka to J.Errio.
J. Lukka——Road leads N. out of valleyfor ½ mile, then curves to left along high ground on northern spursof J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly ridges; by making shortdetours to right, at khors, all dismounting may be avoided. Muchcultivation on right.
Khor Tuffa—6The Khor Tuffa 20 yardsbroad, 12 feet deep; must dismount here—quite dry. Road becomesstony after khor.
Errio28Village of Errio is reachedafter bending round sharp to left and crossing a “nek,” or “col.”Many cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas.Population about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr and Abballa Adam. Norifles seen. Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty of dura.
Water plentiful but dirty.Best camp ½ mile beyond village to S.W., on Tira El Akhdarroad.
(iii.) Route J. Errioto J. Talodi, viâ Tosi and J. Meselli.
J. Errio——Road runs S.W. through thornbush over cotton soil. Open country both sides; alsocultivation.
05½Pass small hill onright.
38½Hillock ¼ mile away onleft.
½9Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12yards broad.
Tosi½9½Tosi village of about 500Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas, under Sheikh El Fadl Didigair,lying at south end of small stony hill 400 or 500 feet high. Watersupply poor. Supplies poor.
4½14Road now passes between hillsand drops down about 100 feet over an “agaba,” and leads throughcotton soil for 1 mile to
Khor Kagala2¾16¾A broad shallow khor in thickbush. A hill about 300 feet high on right of crossing. Goodgoing.
K. El Kirki2¼19Khor El Kirki—small.
J. Meselli221J. Meselli—on right.
K. Um Sinin223Khor Um Sinin; forestland.
K. Joghan528Khor Joghan; forestland.
½28½Crosses ridge and drops downabout 100 feet to
Amuti1½30300 yards on left of roadseveral big pools of clear good water. Best watering place; betterthan Tosi and Talodi after February. Good going to
Um Dual5½35½A small hillock and (inJanuary, 1904) a pool of clear water 120 yards long, 40 yards wide,4 feet deep. No shade.
Cultivation by people ofTalodi. About 1½ or 2 miles south is an odd needle-shaped rock some200 feet high, visible for 20 miles round.
Road now leads through thickforest for 4 miles. Roan antelope seen.
439½Cotton soil and lightbush.
K. Abu Um Jamad140½The Khor Abd Um Jamad noobstacle in dry weather. Cultivation begins again.
Talodi (Tebeldia)343½The village of Tebeldia, atE.N.E. corner of Talodi, is passed. It lies a mile away in valleyto right.
Talodi (Felaita)144½Village of Felaita andbarracks of half company 12th Sudanese.
J. Talodi is a ruggedprecipitous mountain, about 1,300 feet high and 28 miles incircumference. On its eastern face is a valley running a short wayinto mountain (village of Felaita in opening), which is said tocommunicate by a rough path, known as “Darb El Haramia,” with acorresponding valley on the western face.
There are three villages, allnominally under the head sheikh, an old man called Sherif Wad AbuOmo:—
Tebeldia,population800,SheikhMamun.
Felaita,„2,200,„Abdalla Shamsham.
Ageira,„800,„Shanna Wad El Aris.
The last named village liessome 7 miles away to the S.W. of the mountain. The inhabitants aredescendants of freed and escaped slaves of the Homr. There is asmall colony of true Nubas at the south end of the mountain.
They used to be notorious fortheir success in raiding. They possess about 300 or 400 rifles.Cultivation insufficient for their own needs. Water supply poor.They begin to trade for grain in February with the Nubas of J.Moro, at Kororak.
Half company 12th Sudaneseand Mamuria at Felaita.
(iv.) J. Errio to J.Talodi, viâ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma(February, 1904).
J. Errio—Road leads out S.W. for ½mile, then west and through cultivation. Good going.
2½2½A khor—rough brokenground.
1¾4¼A broad shallow kohr.
2¾7Khor 11 feet deep. Had todismount.
¼7¼Khor 10 feet deep. Dompalms.
3¾11Slight descent to deep broadkohr, travel along it for 400 yards, and then climb out.
½11½Beginning to ascend a ridgeamong rough rocky hills.
1¼12¾Track leads over a smoothgravelly plateau for 1 mile.
113¾Road descends to cultivation;rough stony going.
114¾Track leads sharp to rightdown rocky side of hill into a grassy valley about 3 mileslong.
½15¼Cross broad sandy khor, withrivulet a yard wide in centre (February, 1904). Water disappears amile further down. Dom palms.
Tira El Akhdar½15¾Good camping place undershady trees by stream. The Nuba village is situated on the hills tothe west of the valley, which is only ½ mile wide.
They possess few rifles, but many spears andclubs. Population about 1,200, under Meks
(1)Shega.
(2)Amiri.
(3)Atuira.
(4)El Gamal.
(5)Ti.
They are greatly feared andhated by surrounding Jebels, owing to their raids. They are trueNuban, and wear no clothing. They own a lot of cattle andgoats.
419¾The track, rough and stony,leads S. along the edge of Western hills of the valley, and turnsto the right (W.) over a slight rise, a “nek” or ridge, and runsthrough forest land. Going better. Gravel.
2½22¼Track turns slightly N., andpasses by a khor, banks 20 feet, breadth of all channels 100 yards,and then runs through thick forest. Good going.
729¼Crosses abroad sandy khor 50 to 90 yards wide, and runs along W. bank halfmile to Tiramandi camp. Village is two miles away to the S.W., on aspur of the hill.
Tiramandi½29¾
Mek Nuwai; population, 700Nubas. Very poor, and had been lately raided, very few cattle, butare clearing forest along W. bank of khor for cultivation. Norifles seen.
231¾Track leads S.W. from camp,one mile to village, and then passes over low spur below villageround S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough and stony, much cut up bysmall khors.
233¾Gold is found here in therainy season, the rain displacing rocks and stones on the ridge tothe N. side of the road. The people search for it among the debris.They state that by hard work a man can get sufficient to pay histribute (apparently not worth working).
1¼35Road crosses a broad khor,and the hills on right of road trend away to the N.W.
Many small khors are crossed.Road bends round Southern end of a ridge at right angle toroad.
439Road crosses a broad sandykhor. Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on right to the khor. Aftercrossing, road bends round to left (S.), along Eastern face ofKindirma.
Kindirma1¾40¾A valley in the Eastern faceof a mountain down which a stream forms a succession of waterfallsand deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across, and six feet deep. A roughpath leads up along the waterfall to the top of the ridge, some 400or 500 feet, and on either side the mountain rises nearly sheer toa height of 110 feet. The Nubas live on top of the right orNorthern side, and their village is approached by a precipitouspath winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing inclefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up.
On reaching the top of theridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains whichcurve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and uniteagain three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, thestream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over theridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma.
The Mek’s name is Gandal. Thepopulation is about 800 or 1,000. They have about 20 or 30 rifles.Lots of cultivation, both in the valley, inside the mountain, anddown by the road below, but few cattle. Have suffered a good dealfrom raids.
Road leads due S. throughthick bush towards small jebel, in direction of E. corner ofTalodi. Good going.
141¾Light forest.
243¾Cross broad sandy khor.
J. Mavlul245¾A smalljebel, known as J. Mavlul, about a mile long, is passed. Close toroad on left a small village on the N.E. spur of Talodi. Good viewof J. Eliri and all surrounding country.
6¼52
Talodi1¼53¼Corner of main jebel andvillage of Tebeldia on right in valley.
2¼55½Felaita village entrance tovalley. Mamuria and military post. Wells and water three feet fromsurface (February, 1904).
(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.
The track leads straight outfrom the village of Felaita towards the centre of J. Eliri. Firstthree miles good going through light bush.
33Bush gets thicker. Cottonsoil, bad going.
A hillock4½7½A small hill on the left ispassed.
J. Abu Ghor310½Track leads S.E. round JebelAbu Ghor, a small hill; better going.
4¼14¾Thick bamboo clumpsobstructing track for four miles.
721¾Bad going. Cotton soil.
1½23¼Good going. Light bush.
Tebeldia wells1¼24½Two small wells in depressionin the ground, water two feet from surface, only sufficient for adozen camels. Takes an hour to fill again.
El Egheibish3½28A string of five or sixwells; sufficient water for 200 men and animals. Road hence muchcut up by small khors. Lots of deleib palms.
Taira village (J. Eliri)432Small village at foot ofmountain; population, about 800 revolted slaves of the Rowaugatribe of the Hawazma Arabs; much water and cultivation; SheikhRizkalla, 20 rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of sheep and goats.
Road good from Taira throughdura cultivation and light thorn bush.
Tanguru436A large village, populationabout 1,100 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the HawazmaArabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50rifles.
Much water and cultivation, astream falls from the cultivated plateau 700 feet above in themountains and there are many wells besides. There is a rough trackleading up the glen alongside the waterfall to the Nuba village ontop (Sultan Bilula); population, 1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes atall, very few rifles, all spears and knobkerries, lots of dura,cattle and sheep. They hold little or no communication with thevillages below; able to hold their own in case of raids.
Supplies sufficient for 500men for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo, a jebel to the S. Good roadround jebel to Dallass.
Dallass4½40½Small village; population,about 600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali tribe of the Hawazma Arabs.Sheikh Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles, sufficient cultivation andwater for own needs.
Lakolo242½Good road round jebel, butstony; could be easily improved. Large village; population, about1,200 revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs.Sheikhs Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.
Lots of water andcultivation. Road hence up spur of mountain to Nuba village on top.A solitary hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was told the river was 1½days’ journey due S., and that the people took 4 or 5 days morefrom there to Kodok by boats. Many cattle and goats. About 50rifles.
(vi.) J. Eliri(Lakolo) to J. El Amira.
J. Eliri—½Pass hill on right.
11½Cross khor.
2½4Cotton soil and thick thorntrees—very bad going.
Village26Goodgoing; road curves round jebel by rocks, and reaches village amongdeleib palms and tebeldi trees. Little cultivation and poor watersupply; population, about 200, no arms; very poor. Remains of Nubavillage on top. Was told the Nubas left the jebel and went S. toriver to live in Dinka country a year ago. River said to be 1½days’ journey due S. A few sheep and goats.
2¼8¼
Road hence to J. Kuronde,about 5 miles S.W.
(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J.Werna.
Lakolo——
—½Road runs E., cross khorwhich runs along right of road.
½1Cross khor. Road runs betweenlow parallel ridges of hills named Lohno. Rough and stony.
12Road bends sharp toleft.
Lohno½2½Village of Lohno, small,population about 200. Very little cultivation, bad water supply.Road now bends to right, crossing rocky ridge.
½3Cross khor, bad going.
¼3¼Cross big deep khor, and turnsharp to right.
¼3½Recross big khor, road turnssharp to left.
½4Cross another khor.
½4½Going becomes better, roadruns through forest land.
3¼7¾Cross khor.
¼8Cross khor.
19Going becomes rough.
3½12½Turns sharp to left to Nubavillage of
Tekeim½13Tekeim, small village;population about 400; good water supply; little cultivation, veryfew cattle, but lots of goats.
1½14½A cross road leads to theTekeim dura fields.
½15An “agaba.” Camels had to beled up; cross a khor other side of “agaba.”
116Cross another khor, goingbecomes better.
1¾17¾Cross a khor, track leaveshills, good going.
El Girid1¼19A cone-shaped peak amongsthills to right known as El Girid, about 3 miles off. Bush veryopen.
423Bad going, cotton soilbegins, a most dreary view.
427Going better.
128Small hill ½ mile toright.
230Low hills ½ mile onleft.
434Cross khor.
Werna135Enter Werna hills, a group offive or six rocky hills about 300 to 400 feet high on smooth openground.
Population about 1,100,mainly revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs underSheikh Abdul Naim. The original population was Nuba, but are nowvery much in the back ground. The real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. Theyhave about 40 rifles.
Plenty of water andcultivation, few cattle, many goats. People trade to river atKodok.
(viii.) J. Werna toLukka, viâ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.
Werna——
—2Road takes a wide curve outN. (to right) to avoid a swamp which exists all the year round.Good going until cotton soil, then bad going. Very opencountry.
Swamp2¼4¼Cross 100 yards of marshyground (end of the swamp).
¾5Cultivation for ½ mile, hugecrops of dura.
½5½Road turns to left over verybad cotton soil and through dense thorn trees.
38½A big khor, water standing inpools 100 yards long and 4 feet deep. Duck of two kinds and lots ofgame. Roan antelope and tetel.
1½10Firm ground; good going.
111Cultivation as far asMorung.
Morung213Village on conical hill;population: Kawahla tribe of Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with Nubas.Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.
Population about 1,000; 30rifles. A fula supplies village with water until end of January;they then open wells. Good water supply. Plenty of cattle, sheep,goats and donkeys.
After leaving Morung for first 13½ milesgoing very good, through light bush and forest, perfectly flat; nohills.
13½26½A khor, cotton soil and thornbush begins.
127½Good going again.
1½29Cotton soil, and a big khorwith pools of water, dry by end of February.
1½30½A khor, bad going.
131½Good going.
132½Road bends to right, towardsS.E. corner of Gedir, and runs along base to corner.
436½Trackruns round corner and bends sharp to left to village of Mek Bosh,of Gedir. Population about 1,200, about 60 rifles; fair watersupply 10 feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Population:Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.
Gedir½37
Two other villages, Semat andGheibish, described on road to Kologi.
Road leaves Mek Bosh’svillage and runs round another spur at E. end of jebel, passing theMahdi’s rock where he used to preach to the people, and followsNorth-eastern face.
Semat138Small village of Semat, about200 people.
1½39½Track enters gorge, rough,stony going—between main jebel and a ridge of rocky hills runningout N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.
El Gheibish140½Road clears N. end of themountain, and at the end of a spur is El Gheibish, a small villageof about 400 population, 40 rifles; fair water supply, lying amongdom palms. Road hence straight to J. Lukka.
1¼41¾Another road leads over verybad cotton soil to a khor, light thorn bush, bad going, cottonsoil.
2½44¼Firmground and good going through light forest, passing one village at11 miles, and reach main village of Kologi, lying among dom palmsunder the hill.
4¾49
Kologi villages——Population of the twovillages, about 1,500. They are sedentary Arabs (much crossed byNubas) of the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs GadumHassib El Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.
No arms to speak of; quietpeople; do not raid. Fair water supply from wells; water eight feetfrom surface. Much dura cultivation. Many cattle, sheep andgoats.
Road leads out due N. towardsJ. Lukka.
K. Harrug¾49¾The khor Harrug; noobstacle.
½50¼Cross a ridge; rough stonygoing. Road leads straight towards Lukka between small rockyhills.
3¾54Road turns to right to getround Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through thick thorn bush, andacross broken stony ground and small khors and ridges, and bendinground to left enters a valley and the village of Lukka.
Lukka2¼56¼Kawahla Arabs, with a crossof Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large village of 1,000 people; norifles to speak of. Quiet people; do not raid. Much duracultivation. Water supply bad at camping place and insufficient for50 men and animals. Good clear water is obtained about 600 feet upthe mountain, where the Nuba colony get their water. Good campingground. Shade. Plenty of supplies, cattle, sheep, and goats.
(ix.) J. Talodi to J.Kadugli, viâ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra andSema.
Talodi (Felaita)——Roadleads S.W. along face of mountain, through the villages of Felaita,and turns W., following Southern and South-western face along thebase of the hills.
—2
J. Burham is seen 8 or 10miles off to the W., and J. Krongo a long way off to theW.S.W.
57Here theroad leaves the mountain and strikes off across the plain in aW.N.W. direction over cotton soil to a swamp, water one foot fromsurface (February, 1904).
Swamp½7½
29½Firm, good going.
514½A small rocky wooded hillockon right of road.
Kororak620½The road, skirting N.E.corner of Durham, leads straight to Kororak, a Nuba village in J.Moro. The village is high up on the face of the cliff. Population,about 1,500. The various Meks’ names are:—
(1)Tambura.
(2)Toto El Azrak.
(3)Toto Agari.
Plenty of dura, very fewcattle or sheep; no rifles.
People of Talodi come here tobuy grain.
Mountains of Digig andMasakin to south. Road follows base of hills at Kororak for 1 mile,and then strikes off West across rough gravelly soil and thornbush.
222½Cotton soil and thick thornbush.
123½Firm ground and lightbush.
Dorein3½27Road strikes the hills againat Um Dorein. Very small Nuba village on spur on left of road;small hill on right. Meks’ names are:—
(1)Toto El Ahmah;
(2)Abu Falang.
Road passes over ridge, stillgoing West over a small cultivated plain, with hills ½ mile away toleft and ¾ mile on right.
½27½Small rocky ridge in front.Best road leads to the left and then turns sharp to right round theridge and over broken rocky ground.
128½Track descends on to very badbroken cotton soil. Impassable swamp in rains for animals.
Well1¼29¾Track strikes mountain again.Well (water 2 feet from surface) on side of road after leaving theswamp.
231¾Road runs West along southface of hill and at 2 miles turns half right. Good going.
132¾Road leaves J. Moro andstrikes off W.N.W. across plain through light bush; very good goingto
Homra4½37¼Large Arab village,population 1,200. Great number of cattle, sheep, and goats. Wells,water 8 feet from surface.
K. Meshisha1½38¾Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40yards across, 5 feet deep.
1½40¼More Arab encampments,inhabited in rainy season, but deserted now (March, 1904).
141¼Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8yards wide. Alternate cotton soil and fair going through thickthorn bush to
3½44¾A khor known at Sema andKadugli as the “Wadi.” A small hill on right; cotton soil.
549¾Alternate good and bad goingthrough thorn bush.
½50¼A shallow khor; lightbush.
Sema1½51¾Village of Sema, open stonycountry at foot of hills; population about 300. Mek Guru.
Three or four wells. Water 15feet; bad supply; only sufficient for five or six men and animalsat a time.
From here road turns N.W. andfollows base of hills over stony ground.
152¾Rough going; pass small rockyhill on right; a good deal of thorn bush.
254¾Track becomes clearer andleads over cotton soil past the wells in a khor to
Kadugli155¾Kadugli (Arab encampment), afew tukls against the S.W. end of a ridge of small hills. KadugliNuba village is 1 mile due E. on the main range called Ghuhub.
The Mek is Rahal Andal, anenergetic and trustworthy man. Has great influence for 50 milesround.
The Sudanese infantrybarracks, ½ company, are just beyond the encampment, and thegarrison has opened several wells of excellent clear water 6 feetfrom surface.
Supplies unlimited fromKadugli. Population of village about 1,200. They have about 50rifles.

[28]Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a more direct road, viâ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is said to be very scarce (More, 1904).

[29]It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J. Um Durrag.—H. H. S. M.

[30]There is.—H. H. S. M.

[31]In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found several pools of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep; probably rain-water.

[32]There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan, 26 miles.

[33]There is an upper road which does not cross Khor Abu Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more practicable in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.

CHAPTER IX.

(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)

106.—SELIMA to NILE opposite KOSHA.

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Selima——Track to river bears at first at 152°,and after ascending out of valley turns, and, bearing to point onroad 3 miles away, where the trees of Selima are last sighted, is118° (Magnetic). On top of rise, 6 miles out from well, a pair ofhills are sighted on horizon, at bearing of 124° (Magnetic), whichare close to the track and about half way to river. These twinhills of conical shape must not be confused with another pair lyingabout 80° or 90°. Track diverges northwards slightly, and runs atbearing of 119° to a conspicuous and isolated peak; best route liesclose to the N. of this peak. Country flat; a sandy plain, with fewland marks.
First halt38½38½Halted after going 2 miles past twinpeaks.
River Nile, opposite to Kosha4179½The regular track to the river goes toSagiet El Abd, and runs to S. of a mass of black rocky hills lyingin the centre of a sandy plain. These hills are spoken of as JebelEl Tult. I marched to the N. of these hills, and struck the riveropposite to Ginnis, the land mark being the hill marked Jebel Hamraon Kosha sheet. General direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I am told,the mountain to march on when going to Sagiet El Abd.

107.—DONGOLA to LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, December 16 to December 31, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dongola——From Dongola the route lies nearly due W.to Um Hellal; the chief landmark is Jebel Nosab. After leavingNosab there is a bad bit of going, entailing about ½ hour’swalking, descending into valley containing the wells. Camels cantrot the rest of the way.
Um Hellal Well2020Is good sweet water; the water lies about9 feet from the surface; plenty of grazing for camels. About sevenfamilies live here through the winter, and it is possible to getgoat’s milk and a few eggs and dates. A ruined fort, probably 100years old, with a well in the yard (water 12 feet from surface) isabout ¾ mile away; it is called El Gab, and the whole oasis seemsto take its name from it. Um Hellal is also called Gab ElTahtani.
El Sawani323El Sawani has three wells close together.A number of sunt trees give very good shade. There are more datepalms and it is a better camping-ground than either Shemsi or UmHellal. Water is good, and about 10 feet from the surface; thewells are in constant use. About eleven families live here throughthe winter, considerably more during the summer.
Gawit——Water reported near surface and easilyobtained; good browsing, very little shade; all dom palms burnt bydervishes.
Shemsi1033Water near surface, in clay soil andplentiful; one pan sufficient for my party (twenty camels andeighteen men) taking water for 4 days. Two or three good shadyclumps of trees and plenty of browsing for camels. It would bedifficult to pitch tents owing to deep sand. The landmark forShemsi is Jebel Bowarib, which is a double hill of two small peaksof black volcanic rock, standing solitary about 3 miles N.W.
Butta——I did not visit the well, as all theguides agreed the water was brackish and bad; the landmark fromShemsi is a low round hill, thus, nearly covered with yellow sand,distinctive, as surrounding hills are peaked and black rocky hills.There are apparently about five hills surrounding the water pans,each called Jebel Butta.
Jebel Fantoria942About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi; standsout well, and can be seen at a long distance. Charles Neufeld wascaptured by the dervishes close to this hill.
Jebel Abiad5698Between Selem (18½ miles from Shemsi),where there are some bushes, and Lagia there is nothing for camelsto feed on, and forage must be carried. I did not see the track ofany living thing, either when going or on return. There are nospecial names for any hills except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of achalk range, which ends in an abrupt cliff and can be seen at along distance.
El Gir36134There was reported to be water last year.We dug a well to depth of 7 feet, without result. The Arabs statethe country is more dried up this year than it has been since thedate of the battle of Toski.
Lagia Amran19½153½Lagia the Less, also called Lagia Amran,from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 8 miles longby 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are onlytwo entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching.Water lies within a foot of the surface, and is very plentiful.Ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand; the Arabs saythere was formerly no sand, and that during last few years it isgradually covering ground, probably owing to dry seasons.
My party dug a water pan out of the clay(3½ feet deep and 12 feet circumference). It was quite full of goodwater, with a certain amount of clay in solution, which settled onstanding, on our return 2 days later. Without this pan there was aplentiful supply of water from older diggings which the camel-mencleared of sand. There are some bushes and small trees, about ½mile from the water, which afford feeding for camels. We also foundwater about ½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
Lagia Kebir12½166Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six pans ofwater; good and near the surface, springing from similar soil toLagia the Less, but not so abundant. We dug for water in threelikely places, about ¼ mile to the W., without result. The wellslie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to tensmall trees about 3½ miles to W. giving a little feeding forcamels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge ofhills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reachingsummit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to beseen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is nograzing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natronis found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. The tracksspread considerably and extend across a width of over a mile.
An oasis, called Tura, is reported to lie4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, whichis visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh Fadl ElMula is the only one of the party who had been there, and he saidthe water is very bad. Except for the above, the guides say theyhave no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that thereis no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. ofLagia.

108.—DONGOLA to BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dongola, or Gharbi Dongola——After half an hour’s marching, reachedbuildings of former District, which stand 1 mile from mosque on E.bank by range-finder, and at an angle of 78° (magnetic). Left at 9a.m. Going easy over hard sand. Marched parallel with river untilnear Kheleiwa as marked on map (Debba Sheet 45, E.), then turned W.and marched about 2 hours to well.
At Kheleiwa on river there are old ruins.A legend has it that there is an underground passage from theseruins to the well in the desert to the W.
Kheleiwa Well (1st halt)19¾19¾Kheleiwa well stands in the centre of amound covered with broken burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8 feet fromthe surface is built with stone, then it is dug into solid rock; onlowering a candle to within 6 feet of the water, the sidesdisappear from view, and apparently there is a wide chamber atbottom of well; candle burnt freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth ofwell to water 96 feet.
Bir El Marghum (2nd halt)32¼52Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is welldefined, being the main road from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is easygoing the whole way, direction about 330° (magnetic). About 24miles from Kheleiwa Well ground begins to fall, and the Wadi El Gabmay be said to begin.
El Marghum is the most southern well inEl Gab and one of the deepest, being about 20 feet deep beforereaching water, and is stone lined, water good, cool, and pleasantto drink, depth of water 3½ feet, and reported always plentiful.This well is said to be 6 hours from Khandak with an easy road.Near well are one or two good sayal trees and selem bushes, but nodate palms.
Awene——Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from ElMarghum to Um Hagar, direction 330°. After 1½ miles a trackbranches to Shoki at direction 295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla, thehead of the Gunganab, one of the largest of the Kababishsub-tribes, lives at Awene. The water of this well is about 8 feetfrom surface and luke warm, it lies about 6 miles from Marghum;there are a number of fine sayal trees about, as well as date anddom palms; good shade.
El Agari——This is a small well without stonefacing, water cooler and pleasanter to drink than Awene, lies 1½miles from latter. Surrounded by selem bushes.
Id Wad Medawi——Dwelling of the former Sheikh ofGunganab, an old man, reported age 115 years, very feeble; a numberof date trees near here, and track to Millan passes a number oftukls used during date harvest season.
Bir Millan1466This well, about 14 miles from Marghum,is surrounded by about 20 big sayal trees giving good shade, thereis also a lot of littel shrub on dunes near; it is impossible toapproach well from S., owing to the shifting sand dunes; this wellis practically the limit of the Wadi El Gab. Water good andplentiful.
From Millan track runs nearly due W.,crossing a district called Imsinni, where a number of goats aregrazed, being watered every third day at Millan.
Um Hagar (3rd Halt)6½72½A stone-lined well, at present filledwith sand to within 6 feet of the mouth. Sand is damp and mighteasily be cleared. The Kababish do not use well for fear of theBedaiat, who raided this well and Matassi in 1902. Good grazing forcamels.
Matassi (4th halt)981½From Um Hagar track runs nearly due W.,the going is indifferent; a little grazing on hadr on the way.Matassi lies in a plain some 5 or 6 square miles in extent; wateris very plentiful and about 3 feet from surface; watered 70 or 80camels from the four or five pans that were open with ease; thewater is cool, pleasant to drink, and seems to have the property ofcooling very rapidly after boiling. Kababish captured camels fromBedaiat here two years ago. A few wild date palms, but practicallyno shelter from sun or wind.
Murrat586½General direction W. Murrat, about 5miles from Mutassi, is a low-lying plain, containing a few selembushes, and three or four groups of date and dom palms; watereasily found, but it is bitter and undrinkable; going fair; blackrock predominates.
El Hofra4½91A plain encircled on E. and S. by aridge, and on the N. by high sand dunes, some littel shrub, and afew dom palms. One dom palm which formerly had a well next it isnow buried in a sand dune which has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10years. No shelter from N. wind or sun.
Sixth halt23½114½General direction 230° to 240°, goingeasy; about 12th or 13th mile from El Hofra found a few patches ofgrass, indicating rain here last season. About 17th mile goingbecomes more difficult and ground rises. At 20th mile a highconical (?) is reached, from which plateau of Jebel Abiad is to beseen; erected a pile of stones at this point. Ground then slopesdown, and track lies through a depression until at 23rd mile aplain is reached, extending 17 miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad. Herethere is some hadr grass, affording some grazing. The plain isscattered with lava-like stones.
Seventh halt (on plateau of J.Abiad)32½147General direction due W. to a ravine inJebel Abiad. The J. Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum, running fromN. to S.; it is the same range as is skirted by track from Dongolato Lagia Wells. After ascending bluff direction is W.S.W., across aplateau with a very gentle slope down towards the W.; surface isshingle scattered with agates and flints. Could obtain no shelterto halt near.
Tundubi (8th halt)24171About 1 hour after leaving last haltpassed a rocky patch of ground, where the track is well defined,the only place where old lines of tracks are seen, being about 18miles from bluff. About 28 miles from bluff crossed a valleycontaining gottab grass and some other grazing. At Tundubi a wellhad been opened recently, and my party, after deepening it tonearly 30 feet, were able to water about six camels and fill upskins. Latest report is that the well has been filled inmaliciously. There is abundance of gottab, hadr, and akol, givinggood grazing, also some fine tundub trees and selem bushes. Aquantity of senna also grows here.
Ninth halt27198General direction W.S.W. (at 250° by P.compass), very easy undulating country.
Tenth halt12½210½About 31 miles from Tundubi met acaravan, on descending into a valley, along which the track lies.Easy going. No shelter. Saw ostrich tracks.
Eleventh halt28½239Easy going all day; general direction W.Jebel Raya is seen some 10 miles away to the S.; it lies on theroad from El Ain to Bir Sultan. Found a good place to halt, with afew tundub trees and some hadr scrub.
Twelfth halt23262Same general direction W. After 3 milesdescended into a deep sandy khor, containing some hadr scrub(difficult going), marched along it for an hour in direction 250°;then crossed a rocky ridge for 10 miles, then an open plain ofshingle for 5 miles, and down another khor of deep sand with clumpsof hadr scrub in it, direction 260°. Then direction changedconstantly to avoid conical hills. Halted on rocky ground.
Milani——Two hours’ easy marching and then 2 hoursacross an exposed plateau of rocky ground, before reaching a steepdescent down to Milani; a thick clump of selem trees in the Natronvalley. At Milani water is apparently very plentiful, the sandbetween the dunes being wet and brown. Did not try to obtain water,as, though drinkable, it is reported not to be so good as the waterfound at Sultan, 3 miles away.
Bir Sultan——Sultan, a low-lying area of about a ¼mile square of uneven ground covered with tussocks of halfa grass.Water easily obtained and plentiful. I found two or three pansopen, at which animals can get to the water themselves. There arefive or six date palms, also grasses such as tamam, halfa, taklis,but no shrubs, at Sultan. It lies nearly due S. of J. Kashaf.
Natron diggings (13th halt)21283The best natron bed lies about 2 milesaway from the water at Sultan by the shortest and most direct routeto the river, it is probably not more than 250 miles instead of the283 I travelled. The diggings have the appearance of a sandy saltpan, from which sea water has run off, the sand being encrustedwith a white salt-like substance. To obtain the natron the uppersurface of sand, about 2 inches to 4 inches, is cleared away, untilthe natron, a substance resembling rock salt, is reached. The toppart is usually bad, being half sand; then there is a seam of ½inch to 2 inches of good natron, again below a little bad natron,and below all sand again. Sometimes all the natron is spoilt bybeing mixed with sand. The whole place is scattered with scores andscores of oryx and addax horns, which seem to have been the tool,since time immemorial, with which to dig out the natron.
Jebel Kashaf——Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from thenatron diggings, and E. of them at direction 133°; it is a highconical hill centrally situated in the northern part of the valley,and from its summit the whole valley and various halting places areoverlooked. To the S. and S.W. is a level plain, reaching to thehorizon without landmarks.
The Arbain road runs S.S.W. apparently,to a place called Domi (1 day), where there are a few dom palms,and then from there branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa, which latteris reported to be 5 or 6 days from Natron valley in a S.W.direction.

109.—DEBBA to EL OBEID.

(Route during Rains).

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

(Distances only roughly approximate).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba——
Um Belila3535Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about 12 feetdown to water’s edge. Excellent water and any quantity, amountdepends on digging.
El Amra4378Water good andplentiful, obtainable by digging in sandy bed of wadi. From hereduring the rains travellers go to Hobagi, where there is a hofrawhich contains no water in the dry season.
Hobagi67145
Haraza60205Water good and plentiful from a spring atfoot of jebel. From thence viâ Kajmar to El Obeid.Vide also [route 81,] Chap.VIII.

N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel viâ Hobagi, as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.

110.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN.

Major H. V. Ravenscroft, January, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba Camp——On leaving camp, a southerly direction istaken over sandy ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on right.
J. Khattab77Hill on either side of track.
J. Kufri310Two wells on track, one in use, recentlyrepaired by Government.
J. Birget El Merafib1121Water about 55 feet from surface; norope, so could not taste it. Six miles from left of track.
Open desert.
Kaser El Fokani425One old well called Atesh, closed for along time. Well-marked track.
Khor Kaser126On right of track, 400 yards wide. Afterthis the road runs in khor for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
El Magari10⅔36⅔
J. Nesub El Arda844⅔Range of hills 1½ miles from right oftrack. After this the hills gradually close in to right oftrack.
3⅓48Track passes over low hills. Nesub ElArda 80 feet high. After ½ mile another small detached hill,similar to El Magari, and low hills on right, 400 yards fromtrack.
Wadi Maleiga250Good grazing for camels.
Abu Sayal454Good water in small khor about 600 yardsfrom right of track can be got for a distance of 150 yards bydigging 8 feet to 10 feet from surface. One small green tree andusher bushes mark spot. Water at present plentiful, but guidesstate that in dry season supply becomes small. No people here.
J. Nesub El Gelud1⅓55⅓Range of hills 1,500 yards on right oftrack. No more hills on left.
Wadi Gelud1⅔57One well reported under hill, supplysmall in dry season, about 3 miles from right of track. Khor 500yards wide. Good grazing for camels.
Ereishat5⅔62⅔Dry grass and a few bushes. In Gordon’stime there was a large shelter here for travellers andmerchants.
J. Nesub El Shabra——Three miles from right of track. Acontinuous range of low hills on right. Open country on left.
J. Abu Sideir2⅔65⅓Two miles from right of track. From herea track to El Boreiga winds off ½ mile right.
Khor Abu Sideir3⅓66⅔1,000 yards wide; good grazing forcamels. Range of black hills 3 miles from right of track. After 1⅓miles track crosses another piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two othersmall khors, the hills on right being then 6 miles off; on leftflat open country.
Wadi Umanagil672⅔After this low rangeof hills 600 yards from and parallel to track, a few flocks grazinghere in Khor Boreiga. Good water in khor to be obtained for adistance by digging 10 feet from surface.
Abu Heglig (water)274⅔
Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide; goodgrazing; six wells in use here.
276⅔Track passes through gap in spur runningfrom two hills called Um Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from rightof track. J. El Minget (perhaps 30 miles distant) visible on left;salt is obtained from this mountain.
Khor Wabri1⅓80Hills 4 miles from right of track. Waterin khor like a canal, 4 yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches in depth.After this open desert; rain marks; no track.
2⅓82⅓Small low sand hills on either side ofthe track. Going a little heavy for first time since leavingDebba.
Wadi Abu Hashim587⅓Broad khor; some grass and bushes; goodgoing; open desert on both sides.
Dondib El Gedi188⅓Old halting place, a few bushes on eitherside of track. After heavy rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
Wadi Drais1⅔90Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile from leftof track; well reported by guide under hill, spot marked by bigtree; well not in use. This well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
Wadi Abu Usher2⅓92⅓Broad khor, dry grass and usher bushes.J. Abu Usher 1 mile from right of track; long black hill.
Khor Derail2⅔95Small khor; black rocks and hills onright of track.
Abu Inderab297One well in khor in a sort of cave 15feet deep; water plentiful, very clear and sweet. Men have todescend into the cave to get water, which is 2½, feet deep; guidereports water plentiful here at all times of the year. Sides ofcave hard sandy clay; diameter of cave at surface 6 feet, openingout as you go down. Khor 120 yards wide. Usher bushes and somegrazing for camels. Range of black hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,2½ miles from track on right and remaining parallel with it.
Khor El Kelab (Warrania)3½100½Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes, nearlyall dying. J. El Kelab 3 miles from right of track, with low rangeof black hills between track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓miles.
Khor El Kelab (Godamia)1⅓101⅚Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania), and thetwo khors then run east on left of track. Jebel El Kelab acontinuous range 4 miles long, and 2 miles to 3 miles from right oftrack.
3⅔105½Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from right oftrack. Going sandy and good; tufts of dry grass.
Wadi Gumr (water)2⅔108⅙To east of track, in khor, good place forsowing dura after heavy rains. Excellent grazing about 3 miles westof track; water very near surface and can always be got in khor bydigging. A few Arabs here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½ miles fromright of track.
J. Maagil Gumr3111⅙One thousand yards from left of track,with low spur running down to track, and another running parallelwith road for 1½ miles.
1112⅙Low hill on right, close to track, ½ milelong.
⅔112⅚Continuous range of hills on right 3miles off. A gap opposite here, 300 yards long, called Feg Gumr. J.Wad El Melih begins after Feg Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under rangeparallel to it.
Um Aragib1⅓114⅙On left of track; bushes, black stones;good going on ten to twelve camel tracks. Hill on right 5 milesdistant.
J. Maagil Wad El Melih3⅓117½Small hill 300 yards from right of track,with prominent point 60 feet high.
Khor Wad El Melih1½119Many dead usher bushes.
1½120½On right, range of hills, after being 10miles distant, comes in to within ½ mile of track, and from hereruns parallel with it.
2122½End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles fromright of track, after this J. El Shab.
Khor El Shab3⅓125⅚El Shab 2½ miles from right of track;good going.
Khor Abu Usher3128⅚Small khor; dying osier bushes, somegrazing. Hills on right, 6 miles off. Khor on right winding from S.crosses track here.
Well on right of road, no water, only inrainy season.
Khor Abuera4132⅚Running from J. Abuera about 10 miles onright, khor finishes here, none on left of track. Excellent going,well marked track, rain marks, flat open country, nothing insight.
Khor Bohat7⅔140½Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat 10miles on right.
Gedemtina3143½Old halting place. A few bushes, hard,sandy.
4⅓147⅚Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles off;this khor stretches to Korti.
Wadi Medeisis1⅔149½From hill on right joins Wadi Gabra, 2miles from left of track.
Gabra Wells6⅓155⅚Four wells, water always plentiful, verysweet and clear, 55 feet from surface; many flocks and some cowswater here; wells in open space in middle of thick trees, withzeriba for flocks.
Before arriving at wells track for 4miles through trees, mostly sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty ofdry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of wells with Yunis’ house in centreand tukls of the Jehadia round it.
2157⅚Up to here marked track, after this onlyvisible at places owing to sand covering footprints on hard ground;uneven, but going good; bushes and grass everywhere; good grazing;gazelle.
Gerguf3160⅚
Goz Abu Dluet5⅓166⅙Excellent dry grass and bushes for camelgrazing.
El Hanakat4170⅙Low spur on either side of track, whichis more distinct here and in a sort of khor 80 yards wide full ofgreen bushes.
El Shegeig2⅔172⅚About 1 mile on left of track; thicktrees.
Id Anal4⅓177⅙Sandy; trees and grass; ground slightlyundulating.
Khor Id Anal3⅓180½Very narrow khor; rain marks; sandygoing.
Gala Fashfos8⅓188⅚Main peak of Omdurman mountain in sight(Abu Leidat).
2190⅚Small round hill (El Gesi) on left, 3miles off.
El Hafir1⅓192⅙J. El Magrun on left.
El Auti7⅓199½J. Abu Leidat on left.
El Adara1200½
1201½Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
J. Nesub El Merkhiat1202½One isolated hill 1,000 yards from leftof track.
Merkhiat Hills on right.
1⅓204⅙Track passes through gap in Nesub ElMerkhiat, one hill on left close to path, on right hills come downclose to track.
2⅔206⅚Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right. Goingsandy, heavier than during any other part of route.
Omdurman1⅔208½Beginning of houses.

Note.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab, Gumr, and Gabra.

111.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN, viâ ELAI.

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba——
Um Belila3535Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feetdeep (James, 1902).
El Amri4378Water plentiful (native informationonly).
Abu Tawagia25103One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James,1902).
Elai18121Water, scarce in dry season, from twostone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is toGambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr(25 miles). Vide [Route 110.]
Gambar37158Wells, water (?) (native informationonly).
Gabra24182Water plentiful, from many wells.
Omdurman56238

112.—AMBUGOL or KORTI to METEMMA.

From Reports by Mr. Fowler, 1871, and numerous Officers of the Nile Expedition, 1885.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Ambugol——Possesses abundant indications, in theremains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins inthe town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. Itwas selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railwayshould leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.
Korti—4From Ambugol the caravan route followsthe bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branchesoff into the desert in a westerly direction.
After about 25 miles, it strikes the WadiAbu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler statesthat the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the courseof this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled withall the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which areinvaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.
Water reservoirs, in tins, wereestablished in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectivelyfrom Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs ofgiving out.
Hambok4751Wells.
El Haweiyat859Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open inFebruary, 1897.
Near the mountain of El Mesalima,situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundanceof small timber.
In December, 1871, and January, 1872,water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from theJebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal ofscrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during therains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
Miljik——Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwaterlike Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.
Abu Alik——Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supplyof water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track forpractical use.
Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig)1473A plainly defined hill of curious shape.One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb).Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up anarrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit forcamels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897,but water unclean; tastes stagnant.
These estimates (14th February, 1885, byColonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, andthe lower 7 feet, below its high water level.
Abu Halfa1790The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry riverbed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameterfrom 3 feet to 4 feet.
Some distance further up the Wadi AbuHalfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is saidnever to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill,surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.
Water is to be found nearly everywhere inthis wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible inseveral places at the foot of rocks.
To a breadth of ½ mile on each side ofriver bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass;this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks andherds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.
For about 6 miles after leaving AbuHalfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance beingover a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up allround.
The ground then rises gently, and enterscountry wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarsegrass.
On the W. stand isolated rocks ofsandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range fromAbu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.
Jakdul10100The wells of Jakdul, situated in one ofthe torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the cameltrack, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at adifferent level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest ofthe pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosedbetween perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expendedin making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it isevident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrentsrushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highestwater level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rockto a considerable depth below the ground level.
These reservoirs contain always sufficientwater for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are neverdry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals,and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The secondpool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of analmost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in someplaces nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from thewater.
The approximate length of this pool is200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water isexcellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carrydrinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed toraise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than thesecond, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size isabout 80 feet by 15 feet.
A very tortuous and contracted channel,about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms theconnection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this thegorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a finereservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.
These wells, forming the chief watersupply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for therequirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885,but would not have lasted another fortnight.
About 1 mile up the ravine, above thewells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) aboutthe same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in1885. Numerous gazelle.
After leaving Jakdul, the country for afew miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it isfor the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabasgrass and acacia.
El Fura——Eight or nine miles east of the wells ofJakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells ElFura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter,and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in thechannel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated andare unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequentoccurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation ofnew holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface forthe use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidlyfilled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the otherhand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as thewater level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle,sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the customduring the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every fourdays, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they aredriven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. Thewater at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful.Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34]had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of twoyears.
These wells, being off the track, werenot used by the Desert Column, 1885.
Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a tractwhere much drift sand prevails is reached. This drift sand usuallytravels from the E. to the W., under the influence of theprevailing winds, in the form of low mounds, in plan somewhat of acrescent form, with the convex side turned towards the wind. Thisslope of the mound is about 6 in 1, up which the sand constantlytravels to the summit of the ridge, and then rolls down thesheltered side where the slope is 1 in 1, every sandhill having inwindy weather a slow but constantly progressive action. As alltraces of the beaten camel tracks are often obliterated, theJebel-el-Nus is an invaluable landmark. Bad, soft going here.
Jebel el-Nus22122It is a remarkable conical rock ofsandstone, and stands out prominently in the landscape.
After this a valley is approached inwhich the drift sand becomes heavier, but where trees and grassgrow abundantly.
On either side, however, the aspect of theground is most forbidding, the rocks surrounding the valley, seenfrom an elevation, having the appearance of a troubled stormysea.
The drift sand continues in the valleyonly for a distance of about 3 miles.
Jebel-el-Sergein10132After crossing a grass-grown wady thatpartially drains a range of hills on the W., Jebel-el-Sergein (orSaddle Hill), another remarkable desert beacon, is passed.
The valley round Jebel-el-Sergein isfertile and contains much grass, and many groups of trees. As itaffords good pasturage for camels, it is always selected for aresting-place when the traveller cannot reach the nearestwells.
Beyond this another wadi is crossed. Itis about a mile in width, and well covered with trees andgrass.
For the next 12 or 13 miles the routeruns through the district of Ummat Handal.
The first part of it is covered with muchbroken sandstone and loose rock. This is followed for 3 or 4 milesby a stretch of sand, which further on gives way to a moreagreeable country in which grass and trees are plentiful.
15½147½The scene of the battle (17th January’85) was 2½ miles further on, ½ mile S. of the usual track.
Abu Klea (Abu Tleh)4½152Some more wadis and low intervening hillsare crossed till the wells of Abu Tleh are reached.
These wells are sunk in the same manneras those of El Fura, but, as the soil does not stand so well, theyare constantly falling in, and have, therefore, very frequently tobe reconstructed. The water is excellent for drinking, and thesupply is good, having failed only once within the 30 yearspreceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track toMetemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form afavourite watering place for the flocks and herds of theArabs.
The route now enters a valley with grassand trees, and after following it for some distance across a plaincovered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a morefavourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains.
Shebakat16168A little further on occurs the well ofShebakat.
This well is also directly on the caravanroute. It is 12 feet in diameter and 50 feet in depth, excavatedthrough the sandstone rock to a bed of sandy shingle. It is situateon an extensive plain amongst thick scrub and coarse grass, and asthere is no water channel in its vicinity, the supply must beobtained from low-level springs. The water being brackish, it isunfit for drinking purposes, and it is thick and clouded. Thesupply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Smallpuddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surfacefor the use of cattle.
An acacia forest, traversed by the DesertColumn on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. ofthe ordinary track hereabouts.
The track to Metemma now leads over lightscrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat issimilar, but with less scrub.
The caravan route ends at Metemma, whichis situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from thedesert by a low line of hills.
Metemma8176A considerable tract of fertile land,about 1,200 yards broad, dividing the town from the river, isoccasionally inundated during the season of the floods.
Metemma contained (1885) about 3,000inhabitants, and was in 1897 and 1898 the headquarters of Mahmudand his men. It now (1903) contains 2,500 inhabitants who arechiefly women.
This town in 1885 consisted of mud houseswith straw roofs, with one or two earthworks W. of the town; two ormore mosques. Bombardment with small 7-lb. guns produced no effecton the houses, the shells passing through without damaging them.Setting roofs on fire of no use, as it did not destroy the houses.It is now (1903) only just beginning to recover from the effects ofMahmud’s occupation and massacre.
Summary of WaterSupply.
Ambukol——On the Nile.
Korti——On the Nile.
Hambok47—Wells.
El Haweiyat859Wells.
Magaga1473Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. oftrack.
Abu Halfa1790Wells, 3½ miles from the cameltrack.
Jakdul10100Three miles N. of the caravan track.Abundant supply of water good for a large force.
El Fura——About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul, and somemiles from the caravan track. Wells—water good, supply generallyplentiful.
Abu Tleh52152Wells—water excellent, supply fairlyplentiful.
Shebakat16168One large well. Supply abundant and neverfailing, but the water is brackish, and only fit for animals.
Metemma8176On the Nile.
Shendi——On the Nile 3 miles below Metemma.

113.—KORTI to BAYUDA and SEDEIRI.

By Captain V. Bunbury and Viscount Sudley, March, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Korti——Road indifferent going for infantry;suitable for cavalry.
Um Tub3535One permanent well here, 10 feet indiameter, sides faced with stone. Water, 125 feet below groundlevel, good; constant supply. Fourteen hods at the well’s mouth ingood order. Country open, good grazing. Well in the middle of agravelly rise, easy for defence. It took 5 hours to water 115camels.
For the first 3½ hours (10 miles) afterleaving this the route is very bad going, especially for cavalry,and lies along a broken wadi and many stony bits. Ground on eitherside rocky, hilly; efficient scouting impossible. After the brokenground the route lies over open country, and is good forcavalry.
Um Sunt Bayuda3065The wells here are in a khor which runsfrom S. to N. at this point. Only two wells were open to any depth(about 10 feet), but were quite dry. Dug in both of them, but hadto desist in one after a short time, as it was too narrow for a manto work in. In the other, reached water after 3 hours’ digging at adepth of 23 feet below the ground level. Water flowed freely, andwas good.
The wells are commanded from E. and W. byhigh ground immediately above the river bed, and from N. and S. byhills from 100 to 150 feet high at a distance of 200 yards, andfrom N.E. by a range of hills about 800 feet high at a distance of1 mile.
Ten days later this well was revisitedand found to be dry.
The next 4 miles are through the WadiBayuda defile. Road very bad here; flanked on either side by rockyhills, which appear to run far inland on both flanks. All scoutingon flanks impossible. After heavy rains a flood of 9 feet deep issaid to pour northwards through this defile.
Two miles further on lies
Monasieb671or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed wells;water in one of them 8 feet down. A few hods. Trees and bushesgrowing close around; unsuitable place for watering beasts, andunfavourable for defence.
Road good to
Um Sedeiri374Many wells here, mostly unused. Threewide-mouthed wells and one narrow well, newly opened in the sand,had water in them about 6 feet below ground level. The water in theformer was unfit for human consumption, but the camels drank itfreely; the water in the latter was good. After clearing away someof the mud and slime from the large wells water came fairly freely.Also obtained a constant supply of very good clear water by digging2 feet in one of the unused wells; the hods at these wells are notnumerous, and require repairing. I consider that any amount ofwater can be obtained here by a little digging; it is of goodquality, and appears to be about 6 feet below ground level. I wasinformed that there is water here all the year round.
A great quantity of long coarse grassgrows round the wells and on each side of the river bed. The wellsare commanded from N. to S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30 feethigh, at distances of 500 to 150 yards from N. to S.E.; also fromW. by ground about 30 feet high, at distances from 80 to 100 yardsfrom S. to N. Some large trees and the long grass above-mentionedwould afford cover near to the wells.
The road back to Um Tub (35 miles) isgood and open, with the exception of the 10 miles mentionedabove.
The direct road Um Sedeiri to Korti (70miles) is good going, but no water.

114.—MEROWE to JAKDUL.

By Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, August, 1898.

General Remarks.Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of a spate caused by rain near the head.

Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is practically no grass for horses.

As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having been traversed at the driest time of year.

N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company (Camel Corps).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Merowe——
Ghazali8¼8¼General direction from Merowe, a littleS. of E. No definite track. Troops can take shortest line acrossopen plain, dotted with bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles the KhorAbu Dom, whose very sandy bed is 100 yards wide, is struck, and theright bank ascended. At 6 miles the low rocky hills close in toform a short, and very easy, defile; the hills soon recede andallow the valley to expand, and at 7¼ miles the first wellis reached, at the foot of a low hill on right bank. A mile furtheron is another well from which a small garden is supplied.There are one or two water holes in between. Water good,plentiful, and near surface. No good camping ground.
Hannek (Upper)22¼30½Road keeps up right bank of khor; Gerenhill at 3¾ miles marks site of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses toleft bank at Um Sayala wells, and after 4 miles of good going throughthickish scrub, Beida is reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala weresaid to have water, but were not visited. Beida well isabout 20 feet deep. After a few minutes clearing out, it supplied adrink for all the horses. Good shade. At 10¼ miles the road leavesthe main khor, and keeps up an affluent called Ab Jowalis, which itleaves by a very low and easy saddle at 14¼ miles, and aftercrossing the heads of many minor tributaries eventually returns to,and crosses the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to½ mile below the point of crossing is the Lower Hannekwell, which was not visited. After crossing, the track keepsup the right bank to Hannek (Upper) well at 22¼ miles. Thetwo wells here required clearing out, and then gave sufficientwater of rather indifferent quality. Plenty of shade.
Kalas32½63The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and roadthen passes over an open plain, affording good going, until itstrikes the khor again at Um Jueiri well at 8½ miles.After this a few stony bits, and one or two stony ridges arecrossed, with which exceptions road is excellent to well at ElTawila at 14½ miles. Water good; and well, after being alittle cleaned out, afforded a drink for all horses, and some ofthe camels. Road continues good, and follows left bank of khor,except for a few hundred yards at 18½ miles, when the hills closein and drive it into the bed of the khor, under J. Lebarug. At 23½miles it crosses a considerable branch of the khor, and at 26½ itcrosses a low rocky saddle, and returns to basin of main khor AbuDom, in bed of which at 28 miles is situated the well of ElTueina, lying about ⅓ mile to left of direct road to Kalas.From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the road keeps crossing bed of khor,60 to 100 yards wide, and the narrow basin is enclosed by lowirregular-shaped hills. Two lots of wells at Kalas, about300 yards apart. Water bad. Even after cleaning out, the horses andcamels were watered with great difficulty. Little shade.
Abu Halfa25½88½Road keeps up left bank over some stonyground, and crosses khor at 2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After 5more miles of good going on the whole, the very low and easy saddleforming the watershed is reached at 7½ miles, and on crossing itthe basin of the Wadi Magaga is entered. The road for the next 7miles is down a gradually widening, but always stony, defile, alongwhich it is preferable to lead horses almost the whole way. Thepath is mostly down the actual watercourse, which has all thecharacteristics of a mountain torrent. A dry water hole was passedat 10 miles, and some pools of water at 13½ miles. At 14½miles the road emerges from the stony bed and crosses a low saddleat 15 miles, from which the first view of the plains to the S. isobtained. At 15¾, another low saddle is crossed, and the track thendescends to the plain and keeps along the feet of the hills,crossing patches of stony ground alternating with flat khors,covered with scattered bush and thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,when it turns to left up Wadi Abu Halfa, and strikes the wells at26 miles, close to the junction of a tributary with the main khor,and at the foot of a low—but conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]There is a large pool, said never to get dry, about ½ mileup the khor. Good camping ground. Some shade. Water plentiful.
Jakdul10½99Road crosses khor at once, and keepsstraight along foot of higher hills, leaving some very low ones onits right. At 8 miles track turns to left up Wadi Jakdul, andreaches lower pool at 10½ miles.
The former descriptions of Jakdul stillhold good, so it need not be described here. Vide [Route 112.]

115.—MEROWE to BERBER, viâ SANI.

By Captain N. M. Smyth (1897) and Colonel Friend (1902).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Merowe——
El Dughayet1414On left bank of Nile. Shaigia Arabs. Mudhuts, and palms to shade one battalion in vicinity. Thorn bush andgrazing for 1,000 camels.
A well-defined but narrow track, passableonly in single or double file, leads across some rocky hills about150 feet above level of High Nile, till at 6 miles it strikes theKhor Shingawi, which is broad and sandy, with a few scatteredbushes.
Jebel El Dega822Is passed on the right of the road. From6 to 8 miles the ground is firm, and admits usually of marchingcamels four abreast.
El Nus830El Nus is merely the name of a localitywhere the track crosses a spur from the north, whence Jebel ElGhanam is visible 10 miles north and Jebel El Khullal 5 milessouth; no shade. Drainage, after Jebel El Dega crossed, flowssouth-west.
The track generally continues good,mostly over hard shingle or firm sand. In many places severalparallel tracks.
Jebel El Mgarfur (?)1040A rounded hill about 100 feet high, ispassed on the right. This is the first place where shade is to begot from thorn bushes. There is enough for about one battalion ifscattered over about 2 square miles.
Um Geren545The well-known Arab camping ground, UmGeren, marked by a tall tree, is left ½ mile to the north of trackin the wooded Khor Abu Siba.
El Kua1½46½The well El Kua is passed ½ mile north oftrack in the Khor Abu Siba. This well is 25 feet deep, and, thoughliable to run dry in winter, generally contains about 3 feet ofwater from July to September.
El Bar1½48A similar well, El Bar, is passed ½ mileto the north of track in the Khor Abu Siba, which all along here iswell wooded with dom palms, sunt trees and bushes for camelgrazing. Both these wells belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe ofMonasir.
Sani250Sani is a pool of rain-water with rock,sand, and shingle banks. It is said that the water is perennial,and if drunk dry, it refills to three-quarters former depth; morethan 6 feet deep in centre. Water good; contained at time of visitabout 26,000 gallons. Thirty animals can drink at once; if bucketsare used 60 could drink. Sagias and cultivation.
Abu Koreit1464Many old wells, but disused, and watersupply very small.
Kurbai62126Water, but supply bad.
Abu Haraz19145Well; good water.
Berber4149

116.—SANI to EL ZUMA (NILE) viâ JURA.

By Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Sani Pool——Going good; in some places over rough,tussocky grass, but generally over firm sand. Features of countryvery indefinite, and drainage lines hard to trace; there is,however, no doubt that they all cross the track from right toleft.
J. Sergein77From 6 to 8 miles thetrack crosses some rocky undulating ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein,or Sargit, is left to the S., and the road passes N. of J. ElHueish, an isolated rocky hill with a patch of yellow sand halfwayup.
J. El Hueish411
2132A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is nowcrossed. From this point J. Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali (themass of hills S. of Jura Well), lay due E.
1547At 3 miles from Jura the track joins, ina branch of the Wadi Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At this pointthe direction of Sani bears 250 degrees magnetic (Tudway). For thenext 3 miles the track winds in a south-easterly direction throughlow undulating hills, between the mass of the Jura range (J.Ibnali) on the right, and some sharp-pointed hills of considerableheight on the left.
Jura350The well at Jura is situated in a smallrocky plain surrounded by hills N. of eastern end of J. Ibnali. Ithas been cut out of the solid rock and is about 2 feet in diameter.The water was about 6 feet below the surface; it is good and sweet,and tastes like rain-water. One hundred camels were watered from itwithout emptying it. It is said never to dry up. There wereformerly six other wells, equally good, close by, of which themarks are still visible. The natives say they only want cleaningout. Water can sometimes be got by scraping at the mouth of thekhor about 110 yards distant. Near the well stands the ruin of ahouse, built at the time it was proposed to take the telegraph lineto Berber by this route.
It is a bad and confined camping ground,with very little shade, though there are a few dom palms and thornbushes along the khor. Heat and dust very great.
A flood is said to come down the khoronce almost every year. The drainage appears to go to WadiArgu.
El Zuma3585On left bank Nile, opposite El Shereik.Government Rest House and ferry. There is also Rest House atShereik.

117.—JURA to KIRBEKAN (about 1 mile S.W. of Site of Battle).

By Major Tudway and Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Jura——
Wadi Argu33For the first 3 miles the track windsthrough low hills between main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two pointedhills to N. At 3 miles it strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu orArgubi. Here the Sani track branches off at a bearing of 250degrees magnetic, and the general direction of Kirbekan is 305degrees magnetic. The track continues in a north-westerly directionover undulating ground, draining from right to left to the WadiArgu, passing a low hill called J. Barga, and striking into a mainbranch of the Wadi Argu, along which the road runs over anexcellent track with good grazing and plenty of trees.
3033At about 33 miles out from Jura, J.Gormuli, which is visible nearly the whole way, lay due N.
As far as the 45th mile (Henry) the routecontinues to follow the Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor to theleft, and after some 11 miles of a narrow, rocky pathway, descendsto the river S.W. of J. Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan Battle wasfought.
Kirbekan2154The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at Kirbekanvillage. For the last 15 miles of its course the trees andvegetation increase, and from the number of dom palms it isprobable that water would be found near the surface. There isusually water in a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10 or 12 miles fromthe river.

118.—OMDURMAN to GABRA.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., November, 1903.

General remarks.The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few “kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab” as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with, and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should have met much more.

Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the “tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood of the Id Ennala.

The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Omdurman——Left old steamerworkshops, turned N. at corner of Sur wall and, when clear ofhouses, made straight for Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them; alittle grass; no firewood. Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
Abu Meru8½8½
On clearing hills track disappeared.“Tabas” grass and “samr.”
Stony ridge1422½Crossed by stony ridge.
Crossed by another stony ridge.
Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said to flowinto Id Ennala; not a very apparent drainage line.
Id Ennala14¼36¾After passing one or two very minorkhors, crossed Id Ennala; much “tabas” and “spear” grass. Many“samr” and a few “heglig” and “kittr” trees. Good grazing. Groundrather broken in a very small way, but difficult for camels atnight.
Shegeig8¼45Passed a place on right called Shegeig orMushgeig, where water stands after rain, and crossed to furtherside of Goz Abu Delua which had long been visible on left, parallelto route we followed. About a mile wide. The Hanakat is about 40yards to 60 yards wide and full of “marakh” bushes. It is said theold Government tried to find water here, but failed. It is said tojoin the Shegeig, which is joined by the Id Ennala and falls intoNile at Wadi Bishara.
From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra is notvisible, but the guide pointed it out as on 300° magnetic.
The Hanakat seems to have but a smallbasin W. of Goz.
Continued over slightly undulating plainwith grass and scattered bushes.
Passed some dura cultivation on left.Seemed a poor crop.
Wadi Mogaddam1055Turned more to N.N.E.and dropped over low stony ridge into the valley of the WadiMogaddam. Well but not densely wooded. Marched on bearing 330°magnetic to wells.
Gabra wells3½58½
There are at least 15 wells of 60 to 70feet depth. They water a very large number of animals daily. Levelof water fluctuates with rain, after which the whole of the groundround the wells is said to be underwater. Remains of Dervish mudfort, circular, 12 yards diameter, loop-holed towards north, bearsabout 150° from wells, which are 400 yards distant; short sheltertrench E. of wells. No remains of zeriba.
Many Kababish with large flocks andherds.

119.—GABRA to KORTI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road, as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.

The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and N.W. of Gabra.

None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative height.

The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.

The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees; lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met, and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes the principal growth.

Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was very fair, but practically none for horses.

The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand, but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.

No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep, except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.

A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in marching by moonlight.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gabra——Left Gabra in a N.W. direction, and aftera few minutes emerged from the trees on to the edge of the gentlysloping plains, and turned north.
W. Um Deisis5½5½After two hours along the left edge ofWadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um Deisis is crossed. It comes from GambarWells and forms the northern boundary of the Kababish in the WadiMogaddam. It is marked by some trees and 2 or 3 insignificant waterchannels, the only ones seen on the whole road.
Soon after a low sandy hill, with a treeon it, can just be made out in the distance and serves as directionpoint. It is passed at about 5 hours from Gabra, being left on theright.
Bir Hassanin10½16A little way further on Bir Hassanin,belonging to the Hassania, is passed. It is deeper than most, beingabout 144 feet.
Um Harot420From this on we kept well to the left ofthe wadi and made straight for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep,belonging to the Geriat.
It is situated on a bare bit of ground W.of the wadi and just where the Wadi Wohad joins it.
On the E. of the Mogaddam, which is herenarrow, is a low black elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.
Bir El Simira626Kept for some miles more or less in thecentre of the wadi, which is rather ill-defined; slight rises ofground occur at intervals on either bank. Reached Bir El Simiha,Geriat well, close under N.W. end of low black hill partiallycovered with sand.
Fanga Well531One and a-half hours further on, keepingto right of Mogaddam, passed a disused Geriat well called UmKhenoit, situated in a bare space that had once been zeribaed, and15 minutes further on reached Fanga well, Geriat.
Gaerin435Still keeping on right edge of Mogaddam,after another 1½ hours Gaerin wells are reached.
There are several wells, about 120 feetdeep, in a bare space of about half a square mile. Wood all round,including much “selem.” From this on very little grass wasseen.
Bir El Agami641Kept along right edge of wadi, and after1¼ hours crossed a wadi joining from E. Guide seemed to call itWadi Teneida, but it was difficult to catch. An hour further on thenearest point to Bir El Agami was passed. This is the northernGeriat well, and lies about a mile E. of route.
After ¾ of an hour, the junction of theWadi Melh is passed on the left.
Bir Eminalla1051And 3 hours further on the first Hawawirwell, Bir Eminalla, is reached.
From here the wadi begins to be more orless restricted by rising ground on either side which does not openout till within an hour of Um Rumeila.
Um Rumeila12½63½This well is situated on a bare stonypatch just where the Wadi Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of thelatter wadi keeps to the E. of it. From this point the Gumr hills,which have been visible for some time, are at their nearest andappear not more than 20 or 25 miles off. The plain, up to the sandyfoothills, appears gently sloping and bare. The hills have theappearance of a long gravelly ridge of very uniform and no greatheight, but it is unlikely that they are of gravel. A few hills arevisible to the N.W., and a group of low hills called Mingit bears44° magnetic. Salt is obtained either from these hills or from thelow ridges in their vicinity.
Wadi Hamid1174½Kept down wadi, passing junction of W.Anderab at about 4 miles, to junction of Wadi Hamid with Mogaddam.There is some “selem” here; from this on it becomes more and morefrequent. The Wadi Hamid comes from a low hill called Sud Wad Hamidor some such name.
A few miles up it is joined by the W. AbuSedeir, in which there is a Hawawir well, which lies on the roadfrom Um Tub to Hanboti.
El Gab Abu Gambur1488½After an hour along the right edge ofwadi kept a little E. of N. over some broken ground for about twohours, and then returned to wadi and kept more or less up its rightedge till within the group of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.
On the E. side of the southernmost ofthese hills, on the left bank, is an ancient enclosure said to havebeen built by the Anak. A semi-circular wall descending from thesteep part of the hill encloses a bit of gently sloping ground nearthe base. The distance between the two horns is about 120 yards,and the distance from the line joining the two ends to the lowestpoint is about 70 yards.
The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thickthroughout, and 6 feet high at the lowest point of the hill,diminishing regularly to nothing as it ascends the hill.
There is a gate at the lowest point,which is fairly well built, while the rest of the wall has a verypeculiar appearance from all the stones being used upright on theirends. There is a legend that the Hawawir found a well there whenthey first came to the country.
About an hour beyond the W. Eishat comesin on the right. Kept generally on the right edge of the wadi, insome places keeping on the sloping ground above it; a good many lowhills W. of wadi. Crossed a low saddle on W. of wadi, which is heremuch less wooded, and in places hard to identify. A couple of milesbefore reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi passes between two hillson left and right bank, known as J. Abu Mara and Nasub El Abidrespectively.
Wadi Mahal19½108The Wadi Mahal joins on right bank. TheHawawir sometimes cultivate up this wadi.
The Mogaddam becomes more wooded again; alow saddle is crossed on right bank and then a straight line ismade for Um Tub. A great deal of “tundub,” some “selem,” and“samr.”
Um Tub8116Um Tub well, 120 feet deep, situated on avery slight rise in open plain on right edge of wadi. A track fromhere to Bayuda well. Bad going, 2 days for hamla.
J. El Hueimi18134From here low hills are constantly insight, each of which has a name, but none are conspicuous. Much“selem” and “samr,” very good going. The general direction is alittle W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a low hill, serves as a directionmark from some distance till it is reached.
Wadi Bayuda7141After which J. Abno, on the right bank ofthe Nile opposite Korti, becomes visible and is marched on. Acouple of miles further on the W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam fromthe E. It looks as if it must flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but itmay come from a very short way. After crossing it, kept over lowgravelly ridges, rather trying for camels’ feet, till the WadiBayuda was reached. The Wadi Bayuda appears to come from the hillsin the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It contains much “selem” and“samr,” and there was excellent grazing where it was crossed. Itflows out near Ambukol.
Korti9150From here it is best to keep a littlewest of the straight line to Korti and along the right edge of thewadi, in order to avoid more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours a trackis struck which leads past Korti village to the new Governmentoffices, just west of the old fort of 1897-98.

120.—KORTI to BAYUDA WELLS.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.The road ascends generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor Bayuda descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at a distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs give each part of it a different name.

From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol, being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite clear whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after its junction with that wadi.

The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.

Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks, so that everyone takes his own line.

Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It is found almost all the way in the wadi.

No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda wells in December, 1903.

A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in summer.

The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions. The hours are those actually marched by light hamla.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Korti village, west end——For the first 4 milesone of the tracks leading to Um Tub is followed, the route thenbends slightly to left, keeping up the right edge of the Wadi AbuGia, which has plenty of “selem” and other trees, till it crossesit at 13 miles.
1313
J. Shankawi3½16½It now keeps along the left side of thewadi, which has shrunk almost to nothing above the junction of theAbu Gia, passing J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and returning to thewadi, where “selem” bushes reappear.
8½25The route keeps on straight near thesouthern of the two Sawileil hills, past J. El Zein, which is left1½ miles on the right, crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a very low andeasy saddle.
1439It descends just to the right of a verysmall hill called Nasb Um Handal, passes between J. Um Serre and J.Barkol, and crosses the fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just N. ofthe little hill called Nasb El Rahaba.
847After 5 miles it meets the well markedtrack from Merowe, and at 6 miles it crosses a low ridge, anddescends into the valley of the wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.
At 6½ miles it crosses the actual bed, some40 yards wide and 6 feet deep, and at 7 miles the wells arereached.
Bayuda wells754The wells are situated in the bed of thekhor and are filled up, whenever there is a spate. At the time ofthe visit, the Arabs were drawing water from a hole about a mileup; but they had begun to clean out the real wells.
There are said to be two other wells, ElNasaib and Um Sideiri, about 2½ hours up on the way toHanboti.
Just at the wells it is fairly open,though surrounded by low hills. Half a mile further up the khor isclosely shut in by hills covered with boulders.

121.—BAYUDA WELLS to TANGASI MARKET.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General Remarks.From Bayuda wells to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked track, profusely beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream of traffic divides according to the part of the Merowe district for which the traveller is bound or from which he starts.

The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.

The route appears to be of recent origin.

Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber via Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to meet the new conditions in the Sudan.

From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot weather. The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Bayuda Wells——On leaving the wells for the first milethe Korti track is followed. On issuing from the hills, the track,which is well marked, gradually separates from the Korti route,making for higher ground, and keeps on in a practically straightline, crossing the heads of some of the small wadis that join themain one from Bayuda, and passing over a number of infinitesimalsaddles that separate them.
There is nothing of interest along theroad.
J. Hawashawi2626A number of small hills, each too smallto show properly on the scale, but sometimes forming a mass ofconsiderable area, are passed; but the only one worth noticing isJ. Hawashawi, which is said to give a name to the route.
Wadi Abu Gia7½33½There is very little camel grazing on theroute generally, and after this none is met with till the Wadi AbuGia is reached, where there are some “selem” and other trees.
Birgat El Seleim942½The Wadi Abu Gia isthe route used by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is still known asSikkat El Ingliz. The country now becomes still more bare; thetussocks of burnt up “tabas” grass, that have been hitherto seenoccasionally, no longer appear, and with the exception of some“selem” bushes in the neighbourhood of Birgat El Seleim, a lowhill, no green thing is seen till the Wadi Kurei is reached in theneighbourhood of the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the top of which thereis a good view.
Birgat Wadi Kurei1456½
Tangasi763½From here into Tangasi Market the route(there is no track) is over a low gravel ridge and then across alevel plain.

[34]It was in this year that the surveys for the railway were made.

[35]See [page 175.]

APPENDIX.

(Routes partly outside the Sudan.)

122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.

(Compiled by the Editor.)

The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut, in Upper Egypt, viâ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia, and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan, and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans, occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically deserted.

In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.

The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher, is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according to native report:—

Place.Marching Days.Rest Days.Total No. of Days.
Assiut———
El Kharga415
Beris1½12½
El Murra3—3
El Kassaba1½12½
Sheb112
Selima224
El Lagia415
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan516
J. Anka or Meidob7—7
El Fasher3—3
Total32840

A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset) till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three hours after sunset.

Description.

The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the distances between the main points given below must be considered more or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).

On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.

(a.)—ASSIUT, viâ KHARGA, to BERIS and MAKS.

(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899, Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons, R.E., February, 1894, &c.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Assiut——Leave Assiut on the S., turn to W.,through cemeteries, and along the the foot of the scarp.
55Road winds uplimestone cliff 470 feet. A few miles over broken ground brings oneon to nearly level limestone desert, with no hindrance in anydirection. Road runs generally S. over flat limestone; nothing ofany interest till the road dips into the great hollow of theoasis.
8287
Ein Karam Mohammed13100First water at EinKaram. See book above-mentioned for maps and full description ofthe great Oasis of Kharga, which lies in a dip over 100 miles longand 20 miles wide, running N. and S. About 120 wells and 10villages or districts; population about 8,000; 4,500 feddans ofcultivated ground, and about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis includesthe villages of Bulak (third largest village), Beris (secondlargest village), attacked by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks (Bahariand Gibli). The road now strikes again S. into the desert.
Kharga26126
Bulak15141
Beris39180
Maks9189

(b.)—MAKS, viâ MURRA, KASSABA and SHEB, to SELIMA.

(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894; Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)

Place.Miles.Hours(Inter-mediate).Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
H.M.
Maks, from Assiut—189—
Kasr Argi or Ein El Kasr2191035A small rocky mound, with a ruin; near itis a good spring. Another mound, with spring and ruin, also bearsthe same name.
Garid Abu Baian11202317A rocky granite hill, about 150 feethigh, on E. of road. The road, which up to this point has beenalong a broad, shallow valley, with a bed of firm gravel, nowenters for a few miles hills of very deep sand, across which thereis no track.
J. Wagif (J. Harif)26½228½90Meaning “stopping place.” A solitarymound of rock 80 feet high. It appears to have been used as asignal station, there being remains of a fire on the summit. Stoneroadmarks and several graves. One day trotting from here to eitherBeris or Bir Murr.
Jebel Mishersha (Um Shersha)8236½—Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persianoutpost, possibly water. Long, low cliff on E. of road. Smallhillocks 4 miles further on, close to road and opposite S. end ofShersha, are called Gara El Maghatia.
Jebel El Magazan11247½—Hillock on road where merchandise used tobe left.
El Garun11½259—Two little knolls; a road to S.W.branches off to Darfur, according to Arabs.
Three miles further on begins a lowlimestone plateau, which extends up to and beyond Bir Murra. Thislimestone is the only landmark for the wells, as no high hills arevisible near.
Bir Murra72661615Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet deep.Plenty of water, rather salt, but camels will drink it. Jebel elMurra is a narrow, ridge-shaped hill, 80 feet high, overlooking thewells. Colvile says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles N. of the wells,and running out of the low range of hills on the E. of the road. Itis easily to be recognised by a conical rock, balanced on its apex,on the top of a small mound.”
Kassaba673332510A group of dom palms, water 7 feet down,bitter and nitrous. Approach from N. by a narrow gorge down thesandstone cliff (120 feet high), which bounds the wells also on theW.; E, and S. the ground is open.
From Kassaba a road leads in a S.E.direction over ridges for 25 miles to the wells of Nakhla, whencethe road continues for a further 79 miles to the Nile, oppositeHalfa.
(Nakhla)———Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from a palmtree on a small, sandy, grass knoll which overlooks the wells.Surrounding this knoll is a narrow valley, about 80 yards broad, tothe E. and S. Throughout this valley water can be obtained bydigging at a depth of from 3½ to 5 feet. The water does not run invery rapidly, but the earth is so light that the well can be dugvery rapidly, filling to about 9 inches in six hours; water goodand abundant (February). In the S. there is rising ground with aslight command. To the E. the ground rises slightly, but is lowerthan the date palm hill. To the N.E. there is a lofty sand hill, ata distance from the date palm hill of over 1,200 yards.
Blockhouse, built 1894 (nowunoccupied).
(The Sheb District)———Kassaba forms the apex of the triangularSheb district, which holds numerous wells, the names of which areoften confused. The western side of the triangle is formed by arange of sandstone cliffs, running S.W., along the base of whichthe Arbaïn road continues from Kassaba to Sheb. The base of thetriangle is the road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the centre is an openplain.
Shebba[36] (or Abu Dom?)1534865A district coveredwith low sand hills, and studded with dom palms. Water is said tobe obtainable by digging in most parts of it; that at the N. end isbad. A well at the southern end gives a good and plentiful supply.There are three patches of camel grazing in the district, eachpatch being about sufficient for 400 camels for one day. From herea road branches off gradually to the S.W. to the wells of Terfawi(Id Koraim, or Abu Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a broad valley,under the cliff above mentioned. Good water 3 feet below thesurface. Forty old palms and numerous smaller ones, and two dompalms, no grazing. This Terfawi road is often used as analternative branch of the Arbaïn road, and rejoins it further S.Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at five days. There appears to be adirect road from Terfawi to Lagia, five days over level groundcovered with stones.
Terfawi———
Sheb10358—A blockhouse was built here in 1894 toguard against raids by the Dervishes, and was attacked on Jan. 8,1895. Water slightly brackish, but plenty of it; a little grazing.Road from here N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E. to Nakhla, 40miles, contains wells or underground water at El Haad, 5, Sederi,5, Bir Suleiman, 13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles intermediate.From Sheb the roads lead S., over easy ground for the most part, tothe oasis of Selima.
Selima824402745Named after a legendary Amazon Princess(?). A small oasis, commanded on all sides by rocky hills, those onthe N. being considerably higher and steeper. The water, obtainedfrom numerous wells about 2 feet deep, is sufficient for a force of1,000 men. It has a strong sulphurous taste and smell. The oasis isuninhabited, but is occasionally visited by the neighbouring tribesfor the sake of the salt and dates which are found there. The saltlies in beds covered by 1 to 3 feet of sand, and has to be brokenout.
There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing datepalms, but these are at present choked in a thick undergrowth.Dates very good.
There is plenty of grazing.
From Selima a road leads in a S.E.direction for 80 miles to Sagiet El Abd, on the Nile. No water onthe way.
For further description of this oasis,vide Part I., Chap. IX., [pp. 202-3.]

(c.)—SELIMA to LAGIA.

(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901, 1903, &c.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
Selima, from Assiut—440On leaving Selima the track, well definedby camel skeletons, goes in a westerly direction for 6 miles overhard sand, after which it turns S.W.; small conical hills to W. for30 miles. Occasional camel skeletons, but no track. Succession ofrocky ridges.
33473High conical hill to W. Extensive view.All hills crossed are steep on the N. side, and slope gradually tothe S. (This is reversed at Selima and Lagia.) Going rocky andbad.
J. Hadada and J. Hamadia24497Pass between these two hills, J. Hadadato the E. Low ranges of hills, running S.E. and N.W.
40537Descend into hard sandy plain, extendingfor 20 miles. Country then becomes very rocky and difficult forcamels; no track discernible. Range of sand hills to W. called J.Ruhilat.
J. Gabra, a round-topped hill, rising outof valley called Lagia, seen from a distance of 35 miles. Roaddescends by a gorge of deep sand into the valley 10 miles long and1 mile broad, running E. and W.
Lagia (Kebir)43580[37]Water about 4 miles from the gorge. Threewells filled with sand water, water has to be cleared, or freshwell opened, otherwise it gets bad. Water good in itself. Novegetation; water 6 feet below surface; country barren; petrifiedwood abundant. Several tracks cross here.
Captain Hodgson states:—
At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are fiveor six pans of water, good and near the surface, springing fromsimilar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. The wells liein an open plain, no vegetation near except about six or ten smalltrees about 3½ miles to W., giving a little feeding for camels. Tothe N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, andthe road to Selima Wells lies across it. On reaching summit ofridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabsstate it is the road to Selima and there is no grazing.
In the event of not finding a water panopen, the water lies some 20 yards S. of a low clump of dateseedlings, the only ones in the valley. There are some black rocksin the plain, on the track from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700 yards(by range-finder) from the abovementioned dates, and at an angle of228° from them.
(Lagia Amran)——Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles E.S.E. ofLagia Kebir, also called Amran from the colour of the ground, liesin a plain about 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills;there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easymarching. Water lies within a foot of the surface and is veryplentiful; ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand, theArabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during the last fewyears it is gradually covering the ground, probably owing to dryseasons.
(Lagia bil Hêt)——Some bushes half a mile from the water.At a distance of one day’s journey to the E. of Lagia there is saidto be a well, called Lagia bil Hêt, on account of a Roman wallbuilt close by (?) (Omar et Tunsi).
To the S. the road to Bir Sultan liesacross an open plain and is easy going. The tracks spreadconsiderably.
An oasis is reported to lie 4 days’journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which isvisited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. The water is saidto be bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have noknowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is noroad with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia. Theroad Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166 miles in a S.E. direction: 7days’ march.

(d.) LAGIA, viâ BIR SULTAN, to EL FASHER.

Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.

Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road, and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value) seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.

From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
Lagia—580On leaving Lagia the going is fair.
47627Low rocky mounds; dozens of emptyparaffin tins lying about; place where caravans leave store andforage. Easy going, hard sand.
35662Sand dunes to E. of track, continue for 5miles. Road slopes slightly down hill, direction 210°.
37699Large black stone 10 feet high byroadside, 18 inches wide and 9 inches thick. Landmark visible forlong way from N. Marching becomes difficult.
10709Low hill, distinctive landmark; blackrock with white gypsum top, with pile of black rocks on top.
J. Kashaf, Bir Sultan28737Hilly rocky country, with gradual descentto J. Kashaf, which lies a short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.

Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley), Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water; ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern slope, the soil is quite damp.

Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.

Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.

From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling, without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears to lead viâ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.

(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), viâ Medwa (?), S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre description of the actual journey.)

Recapitulation, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.

Place.Miles.Days.
Assiut——
Kharga1265
Bulak15½
Beris381½
Maks9⎱
⎰		3
Bir Murra78
Kassaba672½
Sheb251
Selima823
Lagia1405
Bir Sultan1576
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270)1907
El Fasher (El Fasher 110)1405½
1,06740

123.—ASWAN to DERAHEIB.

Compiled from a Report by Mr. Jennings-Bramly (1902).

N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Aswan——The road from Aswan to the well of UmHabal passes through a country destitute of any vegetation, but theroad is well marked, being constantly used by the Eshabab charcoalburners going to Aswan, and the Bisharin, who go to the same marketto buy corn.
Bir Um Habal4343The two most marked points are the J.Butitulub, from which the tomb on the hill opposite the AswanCommandania can be seen, and J. Umsuan on the Demhit range. Thedistance from Aswan to Bir Um Habal is a good day and a half withhamla. Bir Um Habal had plenty of good water at about 30 feet fromthe surface in June, but the level varies according to rainfall,though, according to the Arabs, water is never at any greatdistance from the surface.
From Bir Um Habal the road still liesthrough the hills, but soon leaving these crosses an open sandyplain, without vegetation of any kind. At the end of the first dayafter leaving Um Habal the road again winds between small rockyhills. The hills of J. Negib were evidently at one time mined, asthere are the remains of old houses and signs of the quartz havingbeen worked in many places.
Bir Negib5598Wadi Negib has a fewsayal trees; the water is good and plentiful. Bir Heimer, about 3hours’ march south, was formerly garrisoned by the Eshabab. Thereis always water there. The wadis we now passed had always a certainamount of camel fodder, but the grazing would be sufficient onlyfor a small number of animals, and it would be necessary to go someway from the beaten track to find it. Once Jebel Gedir is reachedthe track runs through small wadis with hilly sides, and soon theWadi Murra is reached; some way up this wadi there is a well, BirMurra, which, as its name denotes, is bitter.
Bir Heimer6104
Bir Murra18122
Ongwat16138Once the Wadi Murra is reached the hillsare left behind, and after about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is reached;the wadi here is nothing but a flat bed of sand held in between lowslate hills. The Wadi Ongwat, now followed, is at its junction withthe Wadi Alagi profusely grown with handal (Colocynth) plant; buthas only a few trees. The well of Ongwat is in the hills of J.Ongwat; it is not more than 3 feet deep, and has plenty of goodwater.
J. Maksam——The Bir Ongwat is the boundary betweenthe Eshabab and Aliab tribes, though the well itself belongs to theEshabab. A road runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu Tabag; but the mostdirect road to Bir Eigat is straight to J. Maksam, high red granitehills, in which, after rain, much good water can be found. Throughone end of the granite hills, before reaching El Deiga, a roadruns, joining Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
The Wadi Alagi is very broad opposite J.Maksam, with only a tree here and there growing in its bed. Attimes during the rains this part of the wadi is cultivated. ElDeiga, a pass through which the Wadi Alagi cuts the small hills atthe northern extremity of J. Maksam, is also a boundary between theEshabab and Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El Deiga to Bir Jugub, isbounded by small hills to the south and rather larger to the north.Except for a sayal or selem tree here and there no vegetation is tobe found in the wadi.
Jugub40178In the Wadi Jugub there is a wellbelonging to the Aliab (Kurbeilab), which is sometimes openedaccording to the pasturage. This wadi had more vegetation than anywe had passed up to that time; there were growing besides theordinary selem a few marakh trees.
From Jugub to Eigat the road leaves theAlagi, passing through low hills to the north. J. Eigat can be seenfrom Jebel Jugub, and it could also be seen from J. Maksam if thathill were climbed.
Eigat27205There is a continuous line of high hillsfrom Bir Jugub to El Eigat, running nearly parallel with the roadat some 5 miles to the north. These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber, J.Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat is well grown with marakh, heglig,sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It is a great contrast in itsgreenness to the Wadi Alagi, left the day before. The water atEigat is near the surface, sometimes running, and at no time in theyear more than a few feet down. The well belongs to the Aliabtribe.
There are at Eigat many signs that inolden times the hills were extensively mined. The road from Eigatto Bir Neshd in the Wadi Alagi is bad, but passable, though hamlacamels have some trouble in passing.
The easier road, though four or fivetimes longer, is down the Wadi Eigat and then across into theAlagi, which it follows to Neshd. Everywhere among the hills, fromEigat to the Alagi, along the direct road, are signs of old miningcolonies. The Alagi here is green with vegetation, the arak growseverywhere, with marakh and heglig, and of course sayal and selemtrees.
Neshd10215The well of Neshd,about half a mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the southern side of theAlagi, belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab. There is always good waterhere, but, owing to the rocks, camels cannot approach right up tothe well. At Bir Kamotit, which is some half a mile up the wadi,the water is good but rather tainted by the herds that water at it.This well is the property of the Hadl family.
Kamotit4½219½
From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib the roadalways follows the Wadi Alagi, which is everywhere well grown withsayal, the bean of which is excellent food for sheep, goats orcamels. We saw many traces of the wild donkey, but did not actuallysee one.
Deraheib9½229Old mining colony. No well.

124.—KASSALA to MASSAUA.

By Lieutenant H. H. S. Morant (1898); Completed with Material taken from Reports by Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (1900) and Mr. F. B. Hohler (1901).

General Description. The road.The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50 feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation, except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha, where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads; it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have made new masonry wells.

The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of the old route, viâ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for the ordinary traveller.

From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati, there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan, which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep; the kilometers are marked throughout.

Country.From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors, which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of this particular part of Africa.

From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau, as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.

Transport animals.For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, viâ Asmara, wheeled vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.

Supplies.Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan, throughout the route.

There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary requirements are obtainable.

Water.If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route, enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies considerably according to the time of year.

Inhabitants.Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.

Climate.The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April, and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month, and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.

The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though perhaps the rains are excessive.

Game.There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.

Route (January to March).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——Head Quarters of theKassala Province (fully described in Vol. I). From here the roadfollows the telegraph line and runs nearly due E. between JebelsMokrani and Kassala, over a level more or less open plain toSabderat, the village of which name is situated on the northernside of the gorge, through which flows Khor Tamarat, and is about1½ miles on the Italian side of the frontier, which is plainlymarked by pillars. Here there is a telegraph office and well with anever-failing and plentiful supply of good water.
Sabderat1717
Metaui (Algeden)1027From this point a road has been clearedby the Italians which runs nearly perfectly straight to thevicinity of Daura Obel, where it bends to the S., and thencefollows the old track. This latter leads from Sabderat to Metaui,where a good well was found (in 1898). The Arabs using the well,however, apparently live at a distance, and were not seen.
Aradeb12½39½From here the roadascends a col, and high ground continues on the right for about 5miles, after which the road leads over a level bush-covered plain,and after passing two unimportant detached jebels, a well, namedAradeb, close to the northern end of the second jebel, is reached.Plenty of shade, but very little water (April, 1898). The pathcontinues good over a level plain with scattered bush until Eladalis reached. Here there is a telegraph office, but only one wellwith extremely little water (April, 1898). Continuing, the track,after crossing a low saddle, traverses a defile with high rockyjebels on either side for about 5 miles, and then, after crossing awooded basin, ascends a high saddleback, from the summit of which afine view is obtainable. From here the track descends by a rathersteep and rocky pass to the wells of Daura Obel, which lie in thebed of a khor which finds an exit to the S., being shut in on threesides by high ground. After 2 miles this high ground is leftbehind, and a similar distance further on another khor is crossed,apparently flowing N. It must be somewhere near this point that thenew-cleared road previously referred to joins in.
Eladal12½52
Daura Obel1466
Bisha1480A level plain, covered with open bush, isnow traversed, and after passing between two detached hills, Bishais reached. Here there is a telegraph office and small village,situated on the side of the hill, about 1½ miles N.E. of the well,where there appeared to be plenty of water (April, 1898). Two milesfrom the well the road crosses the top of a saddle from which agood view E. and W. is obtainable. The road then descends a stonyravine, about 1 mile in length, and a sign board was passed,pointing S., “To Well”; thence across the usual bush-covered plainto Shaglet, where there are rest tukls and many dom palms. In thekhor close by, a tributary of the Baraka, there are several goodwells.
Shaglet1292
Agordat14106From near Shaglet the hills of Agordatare visible, and after traversing a plain (the scene of the firstbattle of Agordat) covered with scattered bush and intersected byseveral khors, the dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka are reachedat the foot of the hills (100 feet high?), on which are built thetwin fortresses of Agordat. These, however, are both commandedwithin artillery range from the S. There are one or more wells withany amount of good water to which there is a covered way from themain fort. Population 8,000. But few stores can be purchased here.The climate is hot and considered unhealthy, though it is the onlystation in the colony, except perhaps Massawa, that can be comparedwith Kassala in that respect.
Adarte17123The road now crossesthe sandy bed of the Khor Baraka and traverses an undulating,tolerably open plain (the scene of the second fight with theDervishes), and recrossing the Baraka about 7 miles further oncontinues up its valley to Adarte, where there are wells withrather a meagre water supply. From here the path continues up thescattered bush-covered valley of a tributary of the Baraka, untilAgat is reached; here there are several wells, and water seemsplentiful. After leaving Agat, the valley narrows considerably,though the plain which bears slight indications of cultivation (thefirst seen since leaving Kassala) continues level until reachingthe foot of the somewhat steep ascent to the plateau (4,470 feetapprox.) on which the fortress and town of Keren are situated. Thisof course belonged to Egypt in the old days, and was then known asSenhit, from the name of a small village still existing. The fort,which is built on a detached hill about 150 feet high, contains awell, but is itself commanded by the hills to the S. and S.W.within comparatively easy artillery range.
Agat10133
Keren11144
The water supply is good, but fuel isscarce in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a rather largemarket, some good stores, canteens, Post and Telegraph Office,&c. The climate here is comparatively cool and healthy.
After quitting Keren, the generalcharacter of the country changes almost at once, and a series ofprecipitous hills and mountains, with perennial streams, areencountered.
Khor Anseba6½150½The best route to Massaua is that by thenew metalled coach road viâ Asmara. This road, aftertraversing undulating country for about 8½ miles crosses the bed ofthe Khor Anseba, in which are pools during most of the dryseason.
From here there is an almost continuousascent till reaching Azteklesan.
Halibaret6½157Six and a half miles further on thenarrow stream of Halibaret is met; good running water.
From here there is a direct caravan routeto Massaua, but water along it is rather scarce, especially in thedry season.
[The following is an account:—
[Halibaret—157Leaving Halibaret bythe direct track at the bottom of the valley the path is open,level, and easy. There is a little water to be found in the valleyof the Maldi, but it is scarce in the Beloa valley, which is quitedry from January to June. The descent to the Beloa is bad. FromMagasas there is a slight descent to the valley of the Maldi, andthence the road is good to Ambelako, near where running water isfound at Galushima.
Ambelako25182
Fil Fil8190Good running water. Between Fil Fil andGergeret there are some very steep and stony ascents and descents,which are difficult for camel caravans. Same applies to the Ailetdefile later on, which however is not so steep, being merely the stony bed ofa stream. The track crosses three ranges of thickly wooded hills,and water is found in the Solomoni valley, about half way toGergeret. The forest becomes less dense and the trees smaller asone approaches Gergeret.
Gergeret10202Good water is found in abundance here,except in the months of July and October, when the supplydiminishes considerably.
Ailet8210From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is oftenintense, and there is a complete absence of water. Road mostly verystony, especially in the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and scarce.
[Saati11221
N.B.—This route report fromHalibaret to Saati is not very reliable.]
Halibaret (stream)—157Soon after crossingthis the ascent to the Asmara plateau begins in earnest, and theroad zig-zags up rugged mountain sides until the summit is reached,at Azteklesan, a tukl village, which had a couple of small canteens(April, 1898), rest-houses, and a plentiful supply of water.
Azteklesan13½170½
Siuma Negus8178½From here the direct road winds alongover at first rather a hilly bit of country covered with scatteredbush and trees, and occasional khors, generally with water in them,until reaching Siuma Negus, where there is a stream of good water,and a fair-sized village. The metalled coach road, after leavingAzteklesan, makes a considerable detour to the N., and is 3 or 4miles longer. From here to Asmara, an open and slightly undulatingfertile plain extends, dotted here and there with villages andseveral running streamlets.
Asmara11½190This is the capital of Eritrea, andresidence of the Governor and Military Commandant. It is a militarystation of great importance to the Colony, and consequently has aconsiderable garrison. There is also a practically impregnable andheavily armed fort, as well as others of lesser importance. In thetown, which has made great strides of late, are some excellentshops kept by Europeans, though, beyond the actual officials,Italians have not yet colonized to any extent. There is a R.C.Church, club, and some fair cafés.
The Government of Eritrea is carried onby a Civilian Governor-General and a Military Commandant.
The Army consists (1901) of 600 Italiansoldiers and about 7,000 natives. The artillery corps is recruitedfrom blacks.
Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet above thesea has a temperate climate, and frost is not uncommon. There is aconsiderable rainfall in the summer months.
From Asmara to Ginda the most direct roadis the mule track which follows the telegraph line down anexceedingly rocky and precipitous descent which begins about 2½miles from the edge of the plateau, which again is about the samedistance from the town. After about 2 miles the descent to Ginda,which is through fine scenery, a deep valley, enclosed on eitherside by precipitous mountains, becomes more gradual.
Ginda15205At Ginda there is an excellent canteen(on a small scale) and good water supply (wells and stream).
The distance by the coach road must be atleast 25 miles.
Sabarguma5210Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where thereis also a canteen and good water, the mule track again isconsiderably shorter than the carriage road, and traversescomparatively easy hills which are covered with thick forest.
Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a plain ofthe same name is crossed. This is noted for the intensity of itsheat, and is said to have accounted for many of the flower of theItalian Army.
Saati11221After crossing the plain, undulating opencountry extends to Saati, which was railhead (1898), though now therailway is said to have reached about half way to Sabarguma(1901).
At Saati, which is about 400 feet abovethe sea, there is a canteen, but water has to be brought fromMassaua by the single line of railway.
Massaua17240Two trains arrive and depart daily.Massaua contains a good harbour, barracks, very fair shops, and atleast one quite respectable café, but it is a very hot, damp,unhealthy, and generally unpleasant place. Beninfeld’s agent wouldprobably be the best man from whom to obtain transport, &c. Thetwo lines of steamers which call at Massaua are the “FlorioRubattino” and “Khedivial.”

125.—TAKARASHORIT or AMBARAB on the KHOR GASH viâ SOGADA and KHOR MAIETIB to UMBREGA on the RIVER SETIT.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, March, 1900.

General remarks.From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,” probably hilly.

Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties, but the absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny bushes to close in on it to such an extent as to very seriously interfere with loaded or riding camels almost the whole way to Gira.

Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about water, but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water is only accessible at certain places. The further you descend the river, the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side of the stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider apart are the watering places.

Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to spend the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the plateau above.

Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces by the thorns.

Cutting tools are desirable.

No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit. There are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad Heleiwa, 11½ miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Takarashorit——This appears to bethe name of some wells in the bed of the Gash, about 45 miles aboveKassala. If not constantly used, these wells are quickly filled inby the sand; but as the water is not more than 6 feet to 10 feetbelow the surface, they are easily opened out again. The bed hereis sandy and about 120 yards wide. Ambarab is the name given to agrassy, and in the rains marshy, place about 1½ miles further upstream on the left bank.
Ambarab——
There is a road from here to Agordat. Theroad to Sogada leads generally in a S. direction for the most partover level ground covered with more or less thick bush, whichoffers no serious obstacle to camels in single file.
There are several tracks, used probablyat different times of the year. There are a few slight ascents anddescents, but nothing at all serious.
Sogada1818The road passes through some low stonyhills partially covered with thorny bush, and at 18 miles it leavesthe village of Sogada about ¾ mile on the left high up on the S.W.slopes of J. Argoji, the highest hill in the immediateneighbourhood. The village did not appear to contain more than 25tukls.
There is a large and deep well at thefoot of the hill, but the water was reported to be bad.
Khor Angaleib119Track now crosses a level plain enclosedon all sides by hills, with openings to the W. After crossing thekhor, signs of recent dura cultivation were seen at intervals onboth sides of the road.
Khor Gersat322Here there is a large well on the N. sideof the khor, which gives a plentiful supply of good water. Thereare no tukls actually at the well, as the inhabitants prefer tobuild their houses on the hill sides, but there are severalsettlements in the immediate neighbourhood, all of which areincluded under the district name of Sogada.
The inhabitants are Baza, or Badein, orKunama. They are very much afraid of the Bazas of the Setit, whoraid them occasionally, they say, under Abyssinian leadership, butthey seem to be friendly with the Beni Amer, whose merchantspurchase dura from them. The Sheikh’s name is Haidar WadIbrahim.
Dinti2¼24¼From here the track proceeds nearly dueS., but winds about a good deal amongst low hills and through thickbush, which, with one or two steep-banked khors, greatly impede themarch of loaded camels.
The hamlet of Dinti is passed about 1½miles to the left on the slopes of J. Dinti. The inhabitants ofLakatakura were camped in this neighbourhood, but whether they hadleft their home on account of the failure of their water supply, orfrom fear of the Abyssinians, it was difficult to make out.
3¼27½After some more tedious windings thetrack descends into a level plain, bounded by the Atbara on the W.,and Setit on the S., and on the E. by an apparently continuousrange of hills, at the foot of which lies the Baza village ofLakatakura.
Khor Gullui2½30This khor is a considerable obstacle,being at least 15 feet deep and perhaps 30 yards wide. The sidesare steep at regular crossing places. A few miles to the W., nearJ. Hamid, the water stands for a long time in the khor after therains. That place is often referred to by natives as Gullui, and itseems to be on the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni Amer andBazas.
There is some Baza cultivation near theKhor Gullui.
J. Sabun535From here on to J. Sabun, a smallisolated hill said to be on the frontier between Hamrans and Bazas,the track passes through very thick thorn bush, which greatlyimpedes loaded camels.
Khor Sanasaba3¼38¼The track leaves J. Sabun just on itsright and turns more to the E. The thorns are less troublesome, andpatches of cultivation and open spaces with high grass arepassed.
Khor Lakisaba341¼Track continuesthrough the same class of country nearly due E., and afterascending the Khor Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it leaves it andascends its left bank, making straight for the hills. Eventually itenters the valley of the Lakisaba, and a halt was made in its bedin a spot enclosed between the hills of J. Komkom and J.Agachina.
Halting-place5¾47
There was no better reason for theselection of this halting-place, which was at least a mile off ourroad, than that it was perhaps the nearest point to the water atthe head of the Khor Lakisaba, to which loaded camels could gowithout considerable difficulty. This water, the only water withinabout 20 miles in any direction, is said to be contained in a largecleft in the rock about 1 hour’s camel march beyond thehalting-place. The cleft is high up in the rocks, and all the waterhas to be carried down by hand.
There were a few Baza families there, whoassisted in the watering of our animals and filling our fantasses,but the delay was very great.
Lakatakura lies about 3½ to 4miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It was deserted, and thewell was said to be dry.
R. Setit2168After retracing our steps for a mile westruck off in a S. direction, and followed a track made by anItalian hunting party a few days before. This track had evidentlynot been used for many years, as it was all overgrown with thorns,and was very indistinct in places. Fortunately the hunting partyhad been obliged to partially clear it for their camels, and afterconsiderable difficulties we emerged from the hills after goingabout 12 miles, and reached the Khor Maichhi. Here there are manyhashab, baobab, and sunt trees. Soon after the Khor Maietib iscrossed, and places were seen where it is said water used formerlyto remain even during the hot weather. After a few more milesthrough undulating wooded country the track leads suddenly on tothe bank of the Setit opposite a large pool about 1 mile below itsjunction with the Khor Maietib, which is said to be the oldboundary between the Hamran and Baza tribes. There was some tobaccogrowing in this khor which was said to have been planted by theAbyssinian Baza.
About here the Setit averages 100 to 150yards wide, with a good deal of running water in it, thoughfrequently fordable at this season (March). Banks 20 to 30 feethigh with a good deal of tamarisk.
K. Debebi169Following river, downright bank K. Debebi and Abu Osher are crossed.
K. Abu Osher2½71½
J. Mudassir4½76J. Mudassir is left ¾mile on right and after crossing K. Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei isalso left same distance on right place on right bank named Darfit is passed, andKhor Um Hagar reached, the jebel of same name being 1 mile onright. Soon after crossing this khor, a track leads N. to AbuGamal. Broken ground now begins.
K. Meshra El Gedad1½77½
J. Elaklei178½
Darfit179½
Um Hagar180½
Helegim181½After crossing theisland of Helegim and marching down bed of river, good shade isreached on left bank.
Halt1½83
J. Um Hagar285From here, leavingthe river which was running S.W., owing to impossibility ofmarching along it on account of ravines and thick bush, a N.direction was taken to foot of J. Um Hagar, then, turning W.,marched over bad cotton soil chiefly along elephant tracks at footof low ridge of hills left on right till, reaching a shorterdetached ridge, we turned S., passing Hafeira, an old burial groundof Hamrans, and descended to the river at Umbrega, where the Setitflows between white cliffs, Geif El Hamam, on left bank, andprecipitous ground on right bank. The last 17 miles had been nearlyall bad going, and game paths were the only tracks met. Gamebetween Maietib and Umbrega plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif (RoanAntelope), kudu, water-buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste), bushbuck,ariel, gazelle, oribi, dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers of giraffeand elephant tracks were seen, but buffalo tracks only twice.
Ridge6¼91¼
Hafeira798¼
Umbrega[41]2100¼

126.—GALLABAT to CHELGA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, January, 1904.

General.From Gallabat to where the track crosses the Gandoa, ground is undulating and track continually crosses khors which drain into the Gandoa or the Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of cotton soil in places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse and gradients more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp more deeply cut.

Water.Is in plenty all along the road, there is not an interval of 10 miles without good water.

Supplies.Perhaps a little dura can be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two) otherwise non-existent.

Inhabitants.Belata Dasta’s village is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except roving bands of hunters, usually Tigréans.

Transport.Mule, donkey and pony pack-transport only suitable, though camels said to have been used as far as Wahni.

Passes.The Emperor’s pass is a necessity.

Game.Plentiful on Atbara and Gandoa.

Escort.An escort of 8 to 10 men is necessary in case of bandits.

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gallabat——Leaving Gallabat,path crosses Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from khor rough andstony; about 300 yards from it, a track leads in a more southerlydirection to Kwara; track, running a little S. of E., passes roundS. end of Tarara Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting S. of this hilland its continuations, path is rough, cut up by small khors runningS. from them; at mile 3, low hills begin on S. of track andcontinue for a mile, track rough, winding, and cut up by smallkhors running N. From here country becomes more open, cotton soil,and low trees untila small khor fringed with big trees is reached, and a few hundredyards on, Khor Chincha, a rocky khor, water plentiful. Trackmeanders on through rocky ground, rough going, for a mile, whencotton soil and more or less open country is reached; another 1½miles, and a rocky khor is reached.
Tarara Mariam Waha22
24
Khor Chincha15
Khor Sababa2½7½(Khor Sababa.) A fewhundred yards on is the halting-place Wahsha, steep cliff on N. ofkhor making waterfall when water sufficient, still rough going,cotton soil and rocky alternately; ¾ mile on, cross Khor Abd ElRizak Gowari (12 yards wide), cotton soil thickly wooded at mile10. A small khor is crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan; at mile 10½,Khor Koki, or Shatta, is crossed; this is a very winding, deepkhor, banks 10 feet, bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water veryplentiful, good shade. Track crosses this khor twice more beforeleaving it, when country becomes fairly open, with small trees, andafter 2 miles reaches and passes to S. of a small hill (120 feet),Tarara Jingandibba (or J. Wad Manna). Path now continually crossessmall khors running N.; at mile 16 Khor Ardeiba is passed, and 2miles on Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards wide, banks 6 feethigh, not much water, good shade); ¾ mile good going, and trackbegins to descend, and ½ mile on reaches Khor Aftit (12 yards wide,banks 10 feet high, good water and shade). ½ mile on crosses smallkhor, country much cut up. 1½ miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards wide,deep pools, general direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile on path skirtsedge of cliff 50 feet high, at bottom of which is Khor Shahadi; atmile 23¾ track descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on crosses small khor;½ mile further on small khor of flowing water, and at mile 25¼ KhorGandoa (50 yards wide in deep pools). From this point road toDagussa leads off up left bank of Gandoa. Crossing Gandoa, trackruns almost parallel with it, low hills 1,000 yards off to N. andalso on other side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track crosses Ofing GandoaW. (small, with water), and at mile 27½ passes close S. of a hill(200 feet). Bamboos now first observed in abundance; ¼ mile on pathcrosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide, pools of water). At mile 28 pathpasses close N. of a low hill running down towards the Gandoa, andat mile 30½ close S. of another hill, low hills still to N.; 2¼miles on reach Agam W., flowing water (named from the lilac-likeflowering bush growing there). At mile 33¼ cross small khor, andanother khor 2 miles from Agam W., low hills now only 250 yards offto N.; ½ mile on pass close to S. of another hill. At mile 36 trackcrosses a small stony khor with a thick fringe of bamboos, and ¾mile on close round the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small khor, and atmile 38 reaches Abai W., a running stream coming from among somehills about 600 feet high and 1,500 yards off N. of road. Track nowleads up the valley of a small khor with low hills on both sidesquite close, dense jungle of bamboo, high grass, etc., but after 1¼miles begins to ascend a spur rapidly, and in course of the nexthalf mile rises about 200 feet, then across a flat withamphitheatre of precipitous flat-topped hills (600 feet) to N.,about 2,000 yards off, to southern end of Tarara Kamachela (700 to800 feet). Track passes round S. of Kamachela, and close under it,running at right angles to its former direction; still under hillcrosses khor of water, and a mile on reaches site of Wahni Suk (nobuildings). From the Suk there is very steep path leading up to thevillage of Wahni (uninhabited when seen); this is situated on thetop of Kamachela, a plateau sloping away to the N. There is alittle cultivation below (dura and cotton), but grain can only bebought in very limited quantities. From Wahni Suk track resumes itsold course; after 1 mile a khor (10 yards wide) full of water iscrossed, and ½ mile on track passes through two or three low hills.½ mile on a small khor of water is crossed. Here the “Candelabracactus” makes its first appearance. Path now descends rapidly, andreaches khor in bottom of valley about 250 feet below Wahni Suk.Since crossing the Gandoa, khors have all been running more or lessW., but from here, after ascending out of valley, another water system isencountered, the water running N. Path ascends and crosses spurs,running N. from a square precipitous hill, Tarara Angedibba.
Khor Koki310½
Tarara Jingandibba212½
Khor Wandoferi5½18
Khor Aftit1¼19¼
Khor Shahadi221¼
Khor Gandoa425¼
2¼27½
½28
2½30½
Agam W.2¼32¾
3¼36
Abai W.238
Tarara Kamachela341
Wahni Suk3½44½
145½
146½
147½
148½
1¼49¾At mile 49¾ saddle N.of Tarara Angedibba is passed over, and path at once descendsrapidly into the jungley valley of the Baloha W., some small khorsare crossed, and 2 miles from saddle there is a small hill on leftof path; ¾ mile on track crosses Baloha W., a babbling stream 12yards wide, two or three times, and at mile 53¼ begins to ascendrapidly, and in ¼ mile reaches saddle under Tarara Baloha. Strikingalong the hill for ¾ mile track crosses a spur, and descends intothe valley of Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching latter afteranother 1¼ miles. Path now ascends rapidly out of khor, and after 1mile passes close N. of a hill (some 250 feet high); two or threesmall khors are crossed running N., and 2¼ miles from the Sunkwapath reaches a saddle, hills visible N. and S.; path now ascendsand runs along the N. side of a range of hills for 4 miles, whentrack skirts to N. of a knobby hill on top of the range; there is alittle water in a khor running down the hill northwards here, butnot enough for baggage animals; track now changes to S. side ofrange and skirts along, winding in and out between gullies andspurs until a small pool of water is reached in Savinki W.
251¾
1¾53½
Sunkwa W.255½
Savinki W.3¾66½
Gint W.268½From here track runsa few hundred yards almost due south, then changes to south-east,ground more level as nearer base of hills; now reaches Gint W.,close under Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic remnant. Track nowwinds for about a mile, turning continually at right angles, asground is very rough and cut up by khors. Path finally crosses tosouth of Gint W., a running stream, and ascends a spur of Wali Devarange, rounding spurs and crossing khors; at mile 72¼ track, whichis close down to khor, rises sharply up a spur for 300 yards, andskirts along higher up. At mile 75¾ path again rises rapidly up aspur, and after a pretty hard climb of some 1,600 feet passes up acleft and reaches top of escarpment at head of valley of Gint W.Country is now open and rolling, track ascends gradually for 2½miles, when it crosses the watershed. Here a view of Lake Tsana isobtained. Path now descends, easy gradients, into the Goang valley,and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.
3¾72¼
3½75¾
Top of Escarpment——
2½81¼
Chelga3½84¾

127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) to GANDOA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, Royal Sussex Regiment, March, 1904.

General.Goja to Gallabat fair path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road, but after descent of Escarp there are several bad places.

Water.Is plentiful, nowhere more than 10 miles interval without it.

Supplies.Obtainable nil.

Inhabitants.Abyssinian villages from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry at Mabra Solasi near Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country adjoining the frontier.

Transport.Mule, donkey, and pony pack-transport only suitable.

Passes, game, escort.See [route Gallabat—Chelga.]

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor = dry watercourse. T = Tarara = Jebel = mountain.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
11Path leaves Goja in anortherly direction through high grass, and crosses a small khoralmost at once. After 1 mile passes round west side of a low hill;1½ miles on cross Anfordibba W. Full of running water; ground risesslowly; open country; path crosses Ariko W., full of water, and,still ascending, leaves small hill on left, and at mile 4 passes abig tree marking spot where market used to be held.
Ariko1¾2¾
Amusgebaia1¼4“Amusgebaia”—legendsays tree was used for hanging people. Cross four small khors, and,still gradually ascending, reach Goanderat village. Track crossestwo small khors and gradually runs up side of a small valley on towatershed; now descends slowly, and reaches camping ground atBarbaria Kora (small amount of water). Ground slopes away foranother 1½ miles, when track descends rapidly down north side of agully and, striking down a spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts northside of spur, path descending rapidly. At mile 12½ track passesalong edge of a sheer precipice; shortly after path runs sharplydown a spur in a more northerly direction; at mile 14 it leavesspur and leads down steep rocky descent across small khor andreaches camping place, “Diloa W.”; said to be water in khor, but Idid not see it. Track now very much shut in, thick bush and roughstony descents, an especially bad one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 trackfollows bed of small khor, crossing it continually, track bad,thick bush, shut in both sides by hills; at mile 19 this khor joinsGanbilo W.; juncture is called Girad Mwat, there is abundant water.Follows Ganbilo W., a khor 20 yards wide with pools, crossing itsix times in the next 2¾ miles; track now passes between two hills,that on N. being very steep and probably end of a ridge which runsdown from Tankal. Path now descends slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½miles on reaches junction of two khors, Goandera W., waterplentiful. 1¾ miles on path crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path nowalong right bank of Jira W., 25 yards wide with large pools, thencross Ambo W. This comes from a spring about ½ mile further back inhill, where it bubbles up quite warm; a couple of hundred yards offon the other side of the Jira lie the hot baths Mwat Abba Mariam.2½ miles on pass to N. of low hill; hills on N. of path about 400yards off, Jira W. still lying parallel with road but some way offto S.; at mile 31¾ track runs close to the Jira, here deep waterbut narrow for 500 yards, when a deep khor coming from N. iscrossed; track now leaves Jira and leads up a defile down which akhor, a tributary of Jira runs; cross this khor for first time atmile 33, steep precipitous hills on both sides, path ascendingdense bamboo thickets, reach water at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jirahas been 300 or 400 feet; path now descends rapidly 350 feet, andleads down north side of a flat valley, path good, and reachesWanenta, water sufficient for party of 30 or so; now along northside of valley close under low hills; on south side of valley is avery prominent cone-shaped hill. Cross Shimel Waha W., waterabundant, and 1 mile on cross small khor, halting-place under agemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track level and good; cross JinetaMariam W., running water, and 1¼ miles on another running stream,called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile further track passes close north of ahill; ground now broken up by spurs running northwards; path nowdescends and crosses Nefoing Gandoa W. just at the junction withthe Gandoa; another 1½ miles on and Jigebit camping ground on theGandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on cross khor of running water, and atmile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a small khor of flowing water; 2 mileson track passes south of Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on reachesMalkam Waha W., a small khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾ crossesa khor of running water and another one 500 or 600 yards on; atmile 62½ pass close to a bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on acrossthe Wahsha W.; after another mile cross a big khor, and 700 yardson a small khor with water; another deep khor without water iscrossed, and then the Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it for somehundreds of yards till it reaches point where Wahni roadcrosses.
Goanderat¾4¾
2¾7½
Barbaria Kora18½
2¼10¾
1¾12½
Diloa W.1¾14¼
Girad Mwat4¾19
423
Goandera W.1½24½
Ambo2¼26¾
Mwat Abba Mariam1¼28
2½30½
1¼31¾
1¼33
4¼37¼
Wanenta4½41¾
Shimel Waha W.3¼45
Bamba146
Jineta Mariam2¼48¼
1½49¾
Nefoing Gandoa1¾51½
Jigebit1½53
2¼55¼
Barkurkur1¾57
Malkam Waha W.2½59½
1¾62½
Wahsha W.163½
Gandoa2½66
Measurements by pacing, pace reckoned 32½inches.

128.—ADDIS ABBABA, viâ GOJJAM and LAKE TSANA, to GALLABAT.[42]

By Mr. J. Baird, May, 1901.

Place.Miles.Hours’ march.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
H.M.
Addis Abbaba———The road from Addis Abbaba is rough andhilly. Three nullahs are crossed, two of them with steep sides. Nofuel. Barley can be bought. Excellent grazing. Two good streams 50yards from camp (S.).
Sallulta44150Excellent going over undulating grasscountry. Six streams crossed, all easy and containing a fair supplyof water. Many villages and much ploughed land en route.Cattle and horses numerous; fuel plentiful. Last hour’s marchthrough acacia scrub. Good stream. Supplies as before.
Muggur-Affaf21½25½835The descent into theMuggur, commencement of which is reached 2 hours after leavingcamp, is precipitous and unrideable. Loaded mules get down withdifficulty. Muggur reached 4 hours from start. Ascent to other (N.)side of valley is easier, but also mostly unrideable. Camp at edgeof S. plateau. No water between camps, except Muggur. Two villagespassed in valley, one on either side of river. Some cotton andbarley grown. Monkeys and florican on hills. Each side of RiverMuggur 2,800 feet below either plateau. Grazing bad; barley andsheep in small quantities. A fair stream 100 yards N. of camp. Woodplentiful in Muggur valley, but scarce immediately round camp.
Yaïya16½4275
Kessi17½59½645Easy marching over undulating grasscountry; for the last 1½ hours through occasional chavaha trees.Fuel scarce. The hills, which are a mile E. and N.E. of camp, arewooded, but plains are treeless. Excellent grazing; fair suppliesof barley and sheep. A small stream 100 yards N. of camp.
Jarso21½81835Excellent going over gently undulatinggrass plateau. Few streams crossed, and water usually scarce andbad. No trees. A few villages. Few cattle. A large market at Jarsoon Saturdays; barley, sheep, and fuel to be bought. Fair stream 50yards W. of camp.
Blue Nile (right bank)149570This camp is a very bad one. Tents haveto be pitched on the track, which runs along the steep N. bank ofthe Nile. Any amount of fuel. The descent is unrideable, and muleshave to be unloaded once to get through narrow pass. River 4,680feet below S. plateau. Few mosquitoes. Many crocodiles and goodfish can be caught in Nile. No water between Jarso and river. Nograzing and no supplies. Wood abundant.
Dejen13½108½70The first part of ascent is most tryingfor mules. At one part they have to be unloaded and load carried upsteps for 40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes after start); the remainder ofthe road runs over successive plateaux, connected by steep ascents.Village of Mere (friendly chief, Balambaras Nagau) near top ofascent, and considerable amount of cultivation around it. Excellentgrazing; plentiful supplies from neighbouring village. Water badand little from stream 100 yards E. of camp. Wood scarce.
Abukerk14½12360A good camping-place in sheltered cup.Wood plentiful on surrounding hills. A fair number of villages inneighbourhood, and some cultivation. Excellent going, mostly overundulating grass; treeless plain from Dejen. A few streams enroute. Latter part along wooded western slope of ridge.Excellent grazing; supplies plentiful. Water, good supply fromstream 50 yards W. of camp. Wood abundant.
Askatta7½130½315Camp on treeless slope of undulatingplain, over which road led from Abukerk. Several streams crossed,all easy, and going excellent all the way. Little cultivation; goodgrazing. Supplies plentiful at neighbouring village. Water, fairsupply from stream 100 yards below camp. Wood scarce.
Debra Markos10½141430The track is hilly, and in some placesthe descents are steep and slippery after rain. Much of the roadlies through thick acacia scrub, almost impassable except by themain mule track. Water plentiful. Track narrow in places. Largemarket.
Delma18½159½70Small camping ground on a slope runningfrom N.N.W. to a fair stream running W. Excellent going,alternately through cultivation, bush and plain. Many rivers enroute, all easily crossed. Grazing bad. Villages inneighbourhood numerous. Barley plentiful and cheap. Wood and waterabundant.
Dembecha9½169240A steep descent 5 minutes after starting,and fairly steep descent and ascent into and out of Tumcha river;the track, except for the last hour, leads through scrub and thickwood; the crossing of the Gadlar is easy, low banks. Excellentcamping ground on the E. side of Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar;first rate grazing. Barley, rif. Market on Mondays. Water abundant;wood on surrounding hills, and can be bought.
River Bakkalla19188645Passing through Dembecha the road ascendsgradually for the first ½ hour some 200 feet over open grasscountry; it then drops into a thick forest, where the track is sonarrow and deep that two mules could not pass in some places; thickundergrowth. After three-quarters of an hour’s march, the Cherikastream is crossed 350 feet below the Dembecha; from here onwardsthe trees and the undergrowth are far less thick, and the track nolonger runs in a deep rut. During the next three-quarters of anhour the road drops gradually 250 feet, and then falls 500 feet in20 minutes down to the Kacham river. The descent is easy. The riverin May is some 15 yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet deep, with a swiftcurrent; flat, wooded banks. Large, flat, slippery stones make thecrossing rather troublesome. The valley of this river is about ¾mile wide. The road now rises 290 feet, crossing a spur which jutsout from the hills bounding Kacham’s valley on the W. and droppingagain to 10 feet below the Kacham’s level, crosses the Birr river50 minutes later. The bed of the Birr at the crossing is some 80yards wide, the left bank 15 to 20 feet high and the right banklower; the water (7th May) runs with a swift current, about 1 footdeep, over a rocky bed in two channels, separated by a mass ofblack rock. 200 yards below the crossing there is a fall of some 30feet, below which the river runs in a narrow gorge enclosed byblack rocks; 300 yards below this it is crossed by a rough logbridge. The road from here runs over an undulating grass-coveredplain, bare atfirst, but during the last 2 hours’ march, wooded. The RiversSarinwaha, Tamim, Lach and Bakkalla are crossed, as well as twounnamed streams; in May they none of them present any difficulty.The camp is a small and bad one on the sloping N. bank of theBakkalla river. Wood and water plentiful, also barley.
Burre9½197½40As far as Monkussa the track winds N.W.and W. over undulating grass country dotted with acacia trees.Parallel to the road, on the S. side of it, and apparently about 5miles off, runs a chain of hills. The river Birr flows past thesouthern end, and the Lach the northern of this range; they join onthe far side and flow into the Blue Nile. One small stream iscrossed before reaching Monkussa, and one immediately after leavingthat village, the Dawuna by name, 20 yards wide; water knee-deep inMay, with a strong current. The crossing is troublesome on accountof very slippery, flat stones. After leaving Monkussa, the trackwinds through more thickly-wooded country, and eventually runs overa treeless plain, out of which rises the knoll where Burre isbuilt. There is ample space for a good camp No wood at the town,but easily procured close by. Water supply not seen, but must befairly copious. Large supplies.
This is the capital of Damot, the seat ofRas Warke, the governor, and the centre of a populous, fertile, andcultivated district.
The villages of Waan and Zoava are passedbetween Monkussa and Burre.
Chara6½204230An easy march through a populous, wellcultivated, undulating country. Good camping ground on the edge ofa stream; villages all around. Supplies, wood and waterplentiful.
Anjavera18222720Eight miles through undulatingcultivation; cross Fattom river, tributary of Blue Nile, 40 yardswide and 3 feet deep at crossing; stream sluggish. Then 2½ milesthrough dense forest, after which track twists through wooded hillsinto a fairly populous and cultivated plain. Rise of 600 feetduring march. Inhabitants not very friendly. Supplies as before,and some cattle.
Dangalla20½242½80Rise rapidly 300 feet. Crossthickly-wooded ridge forming water-parting between Tsana and BlueNile systems, then drop by narrow winding track through denseforest into rich, undulating, well-watered country, with patches ofcultivation. Track in places very narrow, and worn deep into theclay. Four hundred yards N.W. of point where track emerges fromwooded ridge, rises a sugar-loaf hill, called Zurachi, about 1,000feet, forming a conspicuous landmark. E. of track are severalisolated hills, among which is Saatma, visible for some distance oneither side of Anjavera. Last 8 miles through populous and fertiledistrict of Achaffer. Camp in centre of four scattered villages.After crossing ridge excellent going. Wood and water scarce.
Ismaila7249½230Good camp. Fair water and supplies.
Nefassa16265½630Cross River Barati, tributary of BlueNile; easy crossing; thence up gentle slope past Libtan, a largevillage with considerable amount of cultivation; skirt foot ofhills bounding valley of Blue Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor, thinlypopulated district. Supplies scarce; no sheep or cattle. Water andwood scarce.
Liven6271½225A good camping ground. Open country. Goodroad from Ismaila. Barley can be bought, but no sheep; a few cattlein the neighbourhood. Wood plentiful; small water supply.
Forehe9½281345Good camp. A good road from Liven.Natives unfriendly. Supplies and water scarce.
Konsuli (Lake Tsana)5½286½20A small camping ground 100 yards from thelake; a good road from Forehe. Natives unfriendly. Wood, water andbarley plentiful.
Goja (Lake Tsana)19305½730A rough road through the hills whichborder the lake; no water en route; a bad damp campingground on the foreshore of the lake. Another road follows thewater’s edge from Konsuli. This is longer, but said to bebetter.
Dumgi11316½30A good road, and a good camping ground.Poor grazing. Water from lake.
Berbera Kora5321½150A good camping ground in a hollow;excellent grazing. Water supply fair. Plenty of wood. Nosupplies.
Ghimfyva River9½33150A very rough march, and a very bad campin a narrow, rocky, thickly-wooded valley. Cross water-partingbetween Tsana and Atbara systems, 600 feet above Lake. Tracknarrow, twisting, and in places very steep, only practicable formule or donkey transport; descent of 3,500 feet in last 5 hours.Practically no grazing. Wood, but little water in rocks.
River Jera12½343½450Another very rough march. A fair littlecamping ground with good shade; a little grazing. Plenty of woodand water.
Camp near water holes10½354410A good camping ground. The first part ofthe road is rough, but after crossing a ridge nearly 1,000 feetabove the Jera river it becomes considerably easier; thick clumpsof bamboo are difficult for loaded mules to get through in places.Hardly any grazing. Fair amount of water. Plenty of wood.
Ghindoa (Gandoa) River21½375½850A good camp; fair going, except for thethick clumps of bamboo, which are a little difficult for loadedmules to get through in places. A halt can be made at some waterpassed 6 hours 5 minutes after starting. Hardly any grazing. Nosupplies. Wood and water plentiful.
Chincha River22397½820Good going and a good camping ground.Very little grazing. Wood and water as before.
Matemma (Gallabat)5½40320An easy march over a good road.

This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John when he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and was killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during the present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and water was scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both water and grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these are falling the mountain torrents are said to make the road impassable; it could be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos and other trees which in places almost conceal the track.

129.—ADDIS ABBABA to FAMAKA (S. of BLUE NILE).

By Lieutenant Gwynn, D.S.O., 1900.

Note—
G. = Gara, mountain range.J. = Jebel.
T. = Tulu, mountain peak.K. = Khor.
L. = Laga, stream.
Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Addis Abbaba——
British Residency——The British Residency is situated at thefoot of a spur running S. from the Entotto range, and bounding theAddis Abbaba valley on the E. It lies just clear of the mosteasterly native huts. About 600 yards immediately N. of it is theRussian Agency, and about the same distance to the W.N.W. of thelatter, on the opposite side of the stream, is the Russian doctor’senclosure formerly occupied by the Rodd Mission. For position ofother European missions, &c., see Count Gleichen’s mapof Addis Abbaba (I.D.W.O., 1897).
The water supply of the British Residencyis drawn from a spring on the slopes at the back of the compound,and a surface channel from the spring supplies a small tank in thecompound for watering horses, &c.
The compound is surrounded with a solidmud wall, surmounted by a continuous hurdle work fence.
Gibe (King’s Enclosure)1½1½Lies pretty well in the centre of thetown, on a long flat spur running down from Entotto. The enclosureis formed by a high wooden palisade, and at the present time anouter wall, solidly built in stone, is being constructed. Insidethe palisade the enclosure is divided by numerous stone walls andwooden fences; the buildings are strongly built, but there are manythatched buildings and a lot of woodwork.
Water supply is laid on in iron mainsfrom Entotto, and there is an artificial surface channel justoutside the enclosure.
The town of Addis Abbaba extends about 3miles from E. to W., but the houses are scattered haphazard andthere are no streets; the tracks running between the houses arevery rough, and the crossings of the streams are bad, in particularin the rains. A few rough narrow bridges exist, but are not used inthe dry season.
After clearing the town there is a wideflat spur before the Akaki (Western) is reached, which would form afine camping ground.
Akaki (1st branch)4½6Small stream in deep gully.
Akaki (2nd branch)17Stream, 15 feet wide,1 foot deep, rapid, in a deep gully; very steep on W. side. The colconnecting the Entotto with the Managasha Hills is a finemanœuvring ground for troops of all arms, and is, on the whole,flat and open, though it is intersected by a few narrow valleysdraining to the Akaki. Almost all these contain water. The wholemass of mountains S. of the road is generally called Managasha, butthis name strictly applies to the steep round-topped hill just S.of the road at the watershed. The main mountain is called Wochochuby the indigenous Gallas.
T. Managasha613
Fitaurari Hapto Gorgis’s house lies alittle N. of the road just where the descent into the Walata valleycommences, and his territory stretches S.W. from this point.
T. Managasha is well wooded, as are thesteep slopes forming the escarp connecting G. Managasha and G.Foweita.
The road descends this escarp by a fairlywell graded, though steep, line, crossing several smallstreams.
Kaffa road114About 1 mile after commencing thedescent, the road to Kaffa and Limmu branches off S.W. towards thesharp cone to Wata Dalecho; to the left of the road, near thebottom of the escarp, is the Abunas house, situated among thicktrees.
L. Walata822At the foot of the escarp the woody roadstops and then enters a flat grass valley, in the middle of whichis the Walata, a stream about 20 feet wide and 1 foot deep.
L. Dalota527Between Walata and Dalota flat grassland,with a few Galla farms. L. Dalota, rapid, 20 feet wide, 1 footdeep.
Addis Alem (BritishLocation)1½28½The road risessteeply from the stream to the wooded spur on which Addis Alem isbeing built. To the N. of the road the escarp commences which marksthe watershed between the Nile and Hawash, and extends withoutbreak from this point to the River Gude. The escarp and spursrunning from it are well wooded and well watered, the main spursbeing broken up into minor features. The British and Italianlocations are side by side to the S. of the stream which runsthrough the town; the ground to the S. of them is flat for 800yards or so, and at present fairly thickly wooded. On the N. itdrops very steeply to the stream about 40 feet.
Addis Alem Gibe½29
No building has yet been commenced on theBritish location, but Major Ciccodicola has built several largehouses of the ordinary Tukl pattern, and has laid out and commencedanother house of more European design, the lower story of which isstone.
The Gibe is built on a knoll between twostreams, the drop towards the southern one being very steep. Themain buildings will be on the N. shoulder of the knoll. On thenorthern slope of the knoll is a sort of park enclosed by a ditchand palisade. This is evidently intended for a defensible camp, asthe enclosure on the top of the knoll is too small for anyconsiderable force.
Water supply is not very good for thetown, but a main for the supply of the Gibe is being laid from thespur to the N.E.
L. Barga534Road W. of Addis Alem, though not so wellworn as between Addis Alem and Addis Abbaba, is, on the whole, welldefined and good, being much used by the traders from Leka,Lekempti Walega, and Kelina (Chelim), and the soldiers of DejajDamasi, Dejaj Gumsa (Gabri Xiavrihir), and Dejaj Goti (Joti).
At first it runs along a well-woodedspur, then crosses the Barga, which runs in a deep, steep-sidedvalley, 20 feet by 1 foot; rapid.
L. Jemjem640Between the Barga and Jemjem are severalsmall streams with fair water. The Jemjem is 12 feet wide and 6inches deep; rapid. Road runs at the foot of the spurs in opencountry; the escarp to the N. is steeper and the spurs are shorter;to the S. is the flat open grass land of the Hawash Valley, whichwould probably be very swampy during the rains; the roadpractically is the boundary between Ras Mangasha Atakem’s territoryon the N., and Fitaurari Hapto Giorgis on the S. It actually lies,however, in Ras Mangasha’s country.
Hawash River6½48½Between Jemjem and Hawash the country isquite open. Three small muddy streams are crossed. Hawash, 20 feetby 6 inches; rapid, beautiful water.
L. Bagaga8½57A very small stream, draining to theGude. No water between it and the Hawash on the road crossing thewatershed. To the S. are the Chavo Mountains, and to the N. theescarp rises to a high shoulder at G. Ilfata. From this point theroad traverses a succession of open spurs running N. to the L.Dabis, a tributary of the Gude. On the N. of the Dabis the escarprises in huge terraced cliffs.
L. Meiti or Sellen3½60½Small stream, with good water; beforereaching it a dry watercourse and two small streams arecrossed.
W. of the Laga Meiti the country iseverywhere more or less wooded, though the trees are small, exceptby the streams or on the mountain slopes. This is due to constantgrass fires.
L. Hulogka767½L. Hulogka, 30 feet by 1 foot; rapid; isa fine stream. About 3 miles N. of the road is a church and a hotspring. Between the L. Meiti and L. Hulogka, the L. Awaru drains amarshy valley.
Tulu Dintu4½72Road passes over rather a hilly bit ofcountry, crossing the Taltale and Birbissu streams at 2½ and 3½miles respectively; both small, with good water.
Tulu Dintu was formerly residence ofDejaj Hailo Hariam, brother of Ras Makunnen. Now few huts areoccupied.
River Gude Bridge3½75½Flat country between Tula Dintu and Gude,thickly wooded near the latter; two tributaries of the Gude have tobe crossed, both small streams with good water.
The Gude is a beautiful stream, runningfrom one deep rock pool to another at the bottom of sheer-sidedchannel, 30 feet deep.
A good wooden bridge, 6 feet wide, onstone abutments, has been built, evidently under M. Ilg’sdirection.
The ground near the stream is too thicklywooded and confined to be a good camping place.
The Gude flows N. to the Abai, cuttingthrough the escarp in a wonderful canon about a mile wide, withsheer sides some 2,000 feet high. Beautiful scenery.
L. Kili1085½From the Gude the road rises steeply andruns round the northern spurs of the mountain group whichculminates in G. Ragge. The first ascent is very steep, but road isfully well graded, and the conical peak of T. Befti is left to theright.
Small streams are crossed at 4, 4½, 7½,and 9 miles. About 4 miles N. of the road is a deep valley, runningfrom W. to E. to the Gude, and on the N. side of it the escarprises precipitously. The spurs of G. Ragge are thickly wooded, andare divided by steep valleys.
L. Kili, a good stream, 15 feet wide and6 inches deep, in a narrow valley.
L. Aresu4½90Road rises very steeply from the Kiliover the shoulder of T. Boke, and descends steeply into theHumbolsha Valley (stream dries up) at 2½ miles, then a slight riseand another steep descent to the Aresu, a small stream, but withgood water and a good open camping ground on its W. bank.
Chelia District (Gedda village)10100From the Aresu the road winds round thesouth-western end of the Rafisokili Valley, passing overnumerous spurs and small streams. L. Mata Arba,at the third mile, is western boundary of Ras Mangasha’s territory,and the eastern boundary of Chelia, which belongs to QueenTaitu. Country much broken, and fairly thickly wooded.
The village of Gedda, formerly theresidence of Dejaj Desta (Ras Darge’s son, now dead), is on thenarrow water partly between the Gude (Blue Nile) and Gibbe (Omo)basins; there is a considerable population and a church here.
L. Garsa12112After crossing the watershed the roaddrops at first very steeply, and then more gradually, into theGibbe Valley; the surface of the road is good, and level ground isreached at the end of the third mile. At 1½ miles a road branchesoff to S.W., probably that shown on the map illustrating movementof Bonchamps’ mission.
The L. Ambo, which combines with otherstreams to form the Alengo, is crossed, and the road skirts alongN. of, and parallel to, the Alengo.
Several streams are crossed beforereaching the Garan, and the country is rough.
From Gedda the escarp trends off N.W.,leaving a wide plain, bounded on the S. and W. by G. Kwunchu Soduand Tuka.
The Garsa is a sluggish, muddy stream,running between steep clay banks. Good camping ground W. ofit.
L. Alengo5117Road, after passing a few low spurs, runsover a flat, clay valley. The Alengo, 30 feet wide by 6 inchesdeep.
River Gibbe6123Road continues over flat, open country,passing close to the low, rocky hillock, T. Bertuma. The Gibbe, 45feet wide, 2 feet deep, fairly rapid; clay bank, thickly lined withwillow, bottom gravel. It is a tributary of the Omo, and theeastern limit of the Queen’s district of Chelia. Between the Gibbeand the Wama the country is Dejaj Damasi’s.
Bilo13136After crossing the Gibbe the road skirtsround the northern spurs of G. Kwunchu, crossing several smallstreams and rather rough ground. Bilo is a considerable market andCustoms post, situated on the W. side of the L. Tarli, a good-sizedstream running N. to the Gibbe between clay banks.
From Bilo the main road to Leka branchesoff S.W. between T. Sodu and J. Soksaw.
J. Sodu Pass5141The Lekempti road keeps almost due W.,passing just S. of the summit of Sodu. The ascent is not as bad asit appears, as the road is well graded.
There is a wide open spur just before thefinal rise to the pass begins, which would form a good campingplace. Several small streams are crossed in the ascent.
River Wama12153From the pass, which is a very narrowsaddle, the descent is steep for 2½ miles; small camping ground,with limited water supply at this point. Then road follows a longspur, falling gradually towards the Wama. Wooded slopes and nocultivation. The Wama is a considerable stream, flowing in rathermarshy ground between clay banks, but with gravelly bottom, 30 feetwide, 2 feet deep; rapid. Shown on Michel’s and other maps as atributary of the Didessa. Cattle and sheep plentiful and goodgrazing; the river is eastern limit of Dejaj Kumsa’s country.
Nekempti24177After crossing the Wama, the road runs upa long narrow spur coming from W. shoulder of G. Tuka. G. Tuka isthickly wooded and precipitous, though round-topped. At 5 miles, aroad to Leka branches W. up a broad valley formed by another branchof the Wama. The Leka plateau at the E. end appears steep-sided andthickly wooded. Leka is the head-quarters of Dejaj Damasi, and issaid to be extremely fertile, producing much coffee. From the Lekaroad the track ascends more steeply; country well cultivated andthickly inhabited. Long, narrow, steep-sided spurs run S. from thewater parting formed by the western end of G. Tuka. Water isplentiful. At 15 miles is a small village and church. Between thisand Nekempti many small streams are crossed and ground is muchbroken. Nekempti is the residence of Dejaj Kumsa (called byAbyssinians Gabra Xiavrihir). He is a young Galla, a Christian, andhas built himself a church. His ideas are advanced, and he has agarden for European plants, and is trying to improve the nativecoffee and cotton. His gibe is new and well built. There areseveral Arab merchants established here. The chief market is onThursday, but there is a daily market.
Nekempti is on the watershed between theWama and Angur, and to the N. the ground drops steeply to the wideflat Angur valley.
Sasiga13190From Nekempti the road runs W., keepingnear the watershed, which connects with the N. end of the Lekaplateau. After about 5 miles it turns N.W., and several streamsflowing N. are crossed. At the Sasiga market place on (Friday) G.Jimata there is a splendid view looking down into the Didessavalley, and across the Angur valley, towards the Limu hills; theDidessa and Angur valleys proper were, till recently, greatelephant grounds up to the Abai. The elephants are now practicallyexterminated, and the ground is being brought under cultivation,though, as it is unhealthy, the people continue to live on the highground.
Didessa R.24214From Sasiga there is a very steep descentof 1,200 feet. Then the road is generally level, and crossesseveral streams before the L. Arso, where there is a fine campingground at the 13th mile; thence there is a slight rise to theTankara ridge, which is the eastern boundary of the Didessaravine.
From this ridge the descent is verysteep, winding, and rough to the Didessa, slopes thickly wooded.The Didessa is 150 yards (?) wide, 2 feet deep; current 2½ miles,stony bottom, beautiful water. Good camping place for a small partyin dry season on W. bank.
Merechi8222From the river the ascent of the W. sideof the ravine begins at once. The road is very rough and bad, andground on each side is covered with bamboo. The ascent is in threedistinct stages, the last being much the worst, no attempt beingmade to grade it. Between the first and second stage the L. Jirmais crossed, and a small tributary of it is passed before the finalstage.
Merechi, a small village, Saturdaymarket, and Customs observation post. It is situated on the top ofa ridge about 2½ miles behind the edge of the ravine. Between runsthe Laga Jirma, and the valley is a good camping ground. This isthe beginning of Walega.
Gimbi12234The N. end of the Merechi ridge runs upto the escarp, which now begins to trend N.W. The plateau is veryundulating and broken by confused narrow valleys. There is aconsiderable population, and the country is very fertile. At the10th mile the Garsa ridge, running N. and S., is fairly welldefined; otherwise the features are very confused. The Gallelstream, at 9th mile, is a good size, but water is everywhereplentiful. T. Jerko, a very sharp cone 30 miles to the S., is veryconspicuous, and the road to Dejaj Goti’s country runs N. of it,through the Siva district. Gimbi is the residence of FitaurariAmenti, uncle of Dejaj Kumsa.
Dungoro, L. Fincha13247From Gimbi the general direction of theroad alters and strikes N.N.W. towards Beni Shangul. The countrycontinues well watered, cultivated, and populated, with the sameconfusion of narrow valleys. It passes through the small districtsor townships of Siban (where Fitaurari Debaba, another uncle ofDejaj Kumsa, has a house), Aroji, and Dungoro. This latter isbounded on the S. by the L. Fincha, a considerable rocky stream,which is the last tributary of the Didessa crossed.
T. Eriwani11258Five miles beyond L. Fincha, skirting thewestern slopes of T. Ghinghi, the track is rough and hilly. Severalsmall streams rise in this hill and, after uniting, flow away S.between T. Jerko and T. Wallel, becoming, lower down, the Birbiri,which joins the Baro near Gore. T. Wallel is now very clearly seento the S.W. T. Eriwani forms the watershed between the head watersof the Birbiri and the tributaries of the Yabus. Water is ratherscarce between T. Ghinghi and Eriwani. Fitaurari Debaba’s secondhouse is in a very conspicuous position on the watershed, W. of theroad.
Najo10268To Najo the road is easy, and countryopen. The Lagas, Henna, and Dilla are crossed, the latter aconsiderable stream, in which a certain amount of gold washing isdone. The sides of its valley are very steep.
About 2 miles S. of Najo and 1½ miles E.of the road is M. Camboul’s house in the midst of his trial shafts.This is the most promising part of M. Ilg’s concession.
Najo is only a small village, but DejajKumsa is building a new house there to be his huntinghead-quarters.
Guti Mudema7275Passing Najo the country begins to fallperceptibly, and is much more open. The undulations are broader,lower, and flatter. There is less cultivation, but many morecattle. The inhabitants are few, and are mainly engaged, it issaid, in the gold-washing on the Yabus.
Guti Mudema is simply a post on thewatershed between the Lagas Alatu and Genasi and the L. Deivo,which commands a very extensive view into Beni Shangul and the LegaGalla country. The two former streams flow between clay banks. Allthis country was traversed after a considerable amount of rain hadfallen, so all the streams were flowing strongly. As a rule, theywould be quite shallow.
L. Deivo2½277½Flows in a deep valley, with very steepsides.
Gori7284½A small village, the residence ofFitaurari Densa. Road is over an open plateau with astrongly-marked escarp falling to the W.; to the E. a range of lowmountains, running N., marks the great escarp from the western sideof the Didessa and southern side of the Abai valley.
L. Komiso3½288The ground falls very rapidly into theKomiso valley, which is bound by a very steep, high escarp on theS. Between the Komiso and Mendi there is a wide broken valley, withthe L. Sache flowing past T. Wandi, a well-marked hill 2 miles W.of the road. This hill is the northern limit of Dejaj Goti’scountry, which appears to extend up in a narrow strip along the E.side of the Yabus.
Mendi19307Mendi lies just S. of the last risebefore the road makes its final descent into the Yabus. Here thepromontory between the Didessa, Abai, and Yabus breaks into tworanges of hills, one running due N. by Gumbi and one N.W. towardsthe Beni Shangul hills through G. Gunfi. The road descends by theW. side of the valley in the fork, and is very steep and rough, theside of the valley being, as well, cumbered with with densebamboo.
Mendi is the last Galla village, and fromthere to the Yabus water cannot be counted on.
L. Badeisa12319Halfway down the descent there isgenerally water in small quantities, but the camping ground isuneven, confined, and with no good feeding when bamboo is out ofleaf.
W. of the road near Mendi the groundfalls gradually, with slight undulation, to the Yabus. There isthick wooding, and till quite lately the valley was quite full ofelephants, but these are rapidly being exterminated.
Buffalo, waterbuck, hartebeest, andprobably greater kudu are abundant.
K. Dabeisa7326This practically marks the end of thedescent, and the road from here to the Yabus is easy. Blackpopulation (very thin) begins. Bertas.
K. Yabus or L. Dabus9335Yabus is the Arabic, and Dabus the Gallavariant of the name; was slightly in flood when crossed, and wasthen about 100 feet wide and 3 feet deep at the ford. There isanother crossing further S., near where the river breaks throughthe connection between the Gunfi and Beni Shangul mountains.
N. of the crossing is a wide, flat valleywith some scattered hills.
K. Sheira5340Crossing the river the ground soon beginsto rise. There is a little water in K. Sheira.
J. Aside7347A pass over J. Asideleads into the sub-district of Afodu, which is under a woman calledZem Zem. The village of Afodu is the head-quarters of a Kanyazmach,the Abyssinian commandant in Beni Shangul. Water is drawn from theTumat, in which there are always pools.
Afodu2349
K. Tumat2351
K. Mange7358Through Beni Shangul there are nodifficulties on the road, though the going is bad, owing to theamount of small quartz stones everywhere. The K. Mange is dry. N.of it and W. of the road is J. Fadamo, which is very steep, rocky,and thickly wooded. Here Abd el Rahman’s people made their laststand against the Abyssinians, and it took 12 days’ fighting toclear the hill, both sides losing heavily. The final surrender wasonly induced by hunger.
Bomo7365At Bomo there is a small village, butlike all those seen in Beni Shangul, it is half deserted. It isvery difficult to form an idea of how thickly the country isinhabited, as the bush completely shuts in all the villages. A goodmany were seen from the top of J. Fadamo, but it was a very mistyday and it was hard to make them out distinctly.
Belfodio Khamis5370This is the head-quarters of FitaurariMohammed Wad Hojali, brother of Abd el Rahman (Tur el Guri), and isgenerally called Khamis by the Abyssinians.
Famaka (Blue Nile)60430Remainder of route in Sudan.

130.—ROSEIRES to ABU RAMLA and DUNKUR.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O., June, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires (Abramat)——The road to Abu Ramla is a very narrowtrack much shut in by thick bush and grass. After rain the heavyclay soil produces a particularly heavy and sticky mud.
For 5 miles from the river the bush isvery thick and soil very heavy. From the 5th to 10th mile the soilbecomes more sandy and the bush is thinner. At 12th mile 3 largeadansonias are passed; soil heavy clay but bush still open.
El Geri (Sheikh’s Village)2323At the 16th mile the road reaches the ElGeri hills and turns sharply north-east skirting their foot. Thesehills are not more than 200 feet high and are covered with lowtrees. They form a continuous mass though much broken and rocky.Along the northern slopes there is a quantity of bamboo, and road is stony.Skirting round north and north-east foot of the hills, road comesto a small Hameg village. Water (the first since Roseires) isobtained up a steep valley 1 mile south of the village. Road skirtsthe hills to this point, and then strikes off east again to J.Migin. Ground is nearly flat and clay very heavy, bush thick exceptat the 31st mile where there is a slight rise and open ground.Number of giraffe along the road.
J. Migin1437J. Migin is a small rocky hill. At itsnorthern end is a water hole in the rocks, which seldom is emptied,but which does not appear to be fed by a spring, so should not bedepended on. There are said to be other water holes on thehills.
J. Abu Ramla1754No water from this to Abu Ramla exceptafter rain. Khor Madar, which flows to Khor Zagoli, crossed firstbranch at 44th mile, and second ½ mile further on. Road passes 1mile south of J. Withwith and strikes the Abu Ramla mountainhalf-way along its west side, crossing the large dry Khor Aluk amile before. Road then turns north and skirts round the northernfoot of the mountain.
Mek’s Village458Mek Adam Wad Dafeir’s Village is at thefoot of the north-east corner of the mountain. Several other smallvillages are passed before reaching. Water is obtained from wellsin Khor Ramla, a mile east of the mountain, quality not good, but100 animals were easily kept in water.
Mek is of Fung origin, but theinhabitants chiefly Gumz.
From Abu Ramla, the trade road to Dunkurpasses through Abu Mendi my party left the main track however atthe first point where Dinder is met, and after that no well definedtrack was found till a couple miles before the Khor Adabiba.
Khor Ramla159Leaving Abu Ramla, road strikes almostdue east. The soil is much more sandy, and even in wet weatherfairly good going. Bush generally very thick, principally lowtrees.
Khor Babeheir968Large pool in KhorBabeheir; a khor about 10 yards wide, rising in the Bongo Hills andflowing to the Dinder. Road skirts north of J. Abu Nesag, a lowrocky hill. Road stony, and several small dry khors to cross.
J. Abu Nesag1½69½
Khor Abujar (Abu Holgar)574½Khor Abujar, sandy bottom, was in floodwhen crossed, but would probably always contain water in pools orin wells, 50 yards wide, banks easy.
Khor Ainki478½Khor Ainki was in flood, only justfordable, gravelly bed, 50 yards wide; water always obtainable.Good camping ground, east bank. Just east of the khor there is aslight gravelly rise, but bush still very thick; no viewobtainable. Road turns north-east to the Dinder.
Khor Barageili5½84Khor Barageili. Fair camping ground;water in pools.
Dinder R.1½85½Dinder is reached at the foot of smallrocky hill, J. Mogumbi. Main road to Dunkur appears to skirt alongthe bank, but the ground is very broken and path is almostinvisible. With a view to taking the most direct road, theexpedition crossed the river—about 100 yards wide, stony, androcky. Rapid flow of water, 2 feet deep. Guides missed the track,which was said to exist, but of which there was little or no sign,and when the Dinder was met again it was above the ford the guideshad been making for. River was followed to the mouth of the KhorAbu Gemmeiz, where it was just fordable. Bush traversed was verythick; quantities of water buck, roan antelope, and othergame.
Dinder and Khor1499½River forded just above the junction—100yards wide. River in partial flood, 3 feet deep. Skirted along leftbank of Dinder along a disused track.
Khor Damu5½105Khor Damu, 20 yardswide, rocky with steep banks. Left river and reached 1st Terracewhich marked the beginning of the foot hills. Path came in fromsouth apparently from Abu Mendi.
1st Terrace2107
Khor Adabiba1½108½Khor Adabiba, small khor with largepools; water always found.
Dunkur (Sheikh Nasser’s)9½118The road touches the Dinder at 55th mile,and then turns towards the chief village of the Dunkur district,which lies in undulating ground about 2½ miles south of the Dinder.There is a considerable amount of cotton grown, and tribute toKwara is paid in cotton. The natives are of a mixed Hamag and Gumzstock. Many of them can speak Amharic as well as Arabic. A fewAbyssinians are generally to be found here.

131.—DUNKUR to GALLABAT.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, June, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dunkur——
Dinder2½2½About 100 yards wide, 3 feet deep; stream3 miles an hour (but this was after rain). Banks easy, bed stony; agood deal of limestone in the river bed.
Khor Ajban3½6Country on north bank fairly open. Poolof good water in Khor Ajban.
Sheikh Hassan’s1½7½Sheikh Hassan’s Village small, and manyof inhabitants have moved to Gallabat. At the first village, ½ milebeyond Khor Ajban, road branches east to Kwara.
Dardakara6½14Road stony, and crosses a number ofkhors—some dry, but most with good pools—before reaching thepractically deserted village of Dardakara.
Adzko115Adzko also deserted.
Khor Adzko1½16½Large pool of good water in khor: road,very rough, skirting north side of J. Wadrabah.
Site of old Dunkur village in hills toeast of road.
Khor Gelagu420½Village of Gelagu, on south side of khor,only contains 3 or 4 families. Khor is 20 yards wide; unlimitedwater supply, though little stream is apparent.
From Gelagu there is a road round theUmzenidi hill, but the more direct road is over the pass N.E. ofthe village—this is stony but fairly easy.
El Gulut (Khor Afar)6½27El Gulut is aconsiderable Kunjara village on the Khor Afar (a good sized khorwith water in pools). From Gulut there is a road to Kwara. A gooddeal of cotton is grown in neighbourhood. There is a direct routefrom El Gulut to the Khor Dibaba, near J. Bayisa, but a moreeasterly route through Magumbal (a deserted village) avoids thecotton soil.
Magumbal532
Khor Dibaba6½38½Khor Dibaba, 30 yards wide with largepools, is crossed about 1 mile west of J. Bayisa. A very large wildfig tree at the crossing.
Seraf Ardeiba9½48Up to this point water is plentiful, butnone is met with crossing the watershed between Rahad and Dinder.Road is well marked and good. Very little water in the SerafArdeiba. Road skirting this khor is rough.
Rahad R.553Rahad about 50 yards wide, very slightflow of water between large pools. Bed stony. Many crocodiles inpools. Good camping grounds either bank.
Khor Andeiogo457On north bank ofRahad there is cotton soil, trees not so thick but more grass. KhorAndeiogo would generally be dry but there is a small pool east ofthe road. J. Dagarish, a low wooded hill, lies on the road at 59thmile. Khor Teir is a large dry khor.
Khor Tair6½63½
No water obtainable.
Shortly after crossing Khor Teir, ascentof the escarp, extending from J. Madbura to J. Belula, and formingthe watershed between Rahad and Atbara, begins.
The ascent of the lower spurs of J.Belula is pretty steep.
New Shangal9½73New Shangal is on the watershed and hasonly recently been built.
Shangal1½74½Shangal Khor is the first place afterpassing the Rahad that water can be relied on.
Gallabat4½79On the top of the escarp, cultivationbegins and extends at intervals to Gedaref.

132.—FAZOGLI TO KIRIN.

By Lieutenant Jackson, R.E., January, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Fazogli——Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile, then keepto right and follow road leading about N.N.W. in the direction ofFamaka. Gradual ascent to crest of ridge forming watershed parallelto Fazogli ridge, along which road runs. Numerous small khors rundown on either side to join the river on the N., or the K. Aklulion the S.
Some tukls forming part of the village ofFazogli.
Khor Mogo¼1¼Road descendsabruptly and crosses the Khor Mogo, and shortly afterwards the KhorKulili. Both these khors about 15 feet wide with steep rockybanks.
Khor Kulili¼1½
Road now rises and crosses the outlyingspurs of J. Fazogli. Extremely rough going and ground covered withlarge boulders and rocks. River only about 200 yards off in places,with Famaka plainly visible on opposite bank. Left bank of riverhere consists of perpendicular rock from 10 to 30 feet high.
(Forked Roads)1½3Road continues extremely hilly anddifficult until third mile, where road divides, that on the rightleading to Deshalu and Abu Shaneina.
The road now takes a S.W. direction anddescends gradually into a flat bush. Road good, and level exceptwhere it crosses khors.
Khor Annis Sanganni¾3¾Fifteen yards broad, high banks. On thefurther side cultivation begins and continues with a few intervalsof bush the whole way to Masarkum. Dura is the chief product and isof all three kinds. The crop appears to be a very fine one.
Ainyet (not visited)1¼5Road on right leading to Ainyet (notvisited). Said to be a large village.
Khor (?)16Small khor, 5 yards wide, low banks.
Ragreig Village3¾9¾For the next mile the cultivation appearsto be particularly good and the bush begins and continues almostwithout interruption until within ½ mile of Ragreig—smallvillage—scattered tukls.
Khor (?)¼10Much cultivation. Small khor with sandybottom. Road follows bed for 250 yards.
Ragreig Village1½11½Straggling village on low ridge runningN. and S., at present uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state of repair,and the whole place overgrown with grass.
Abu Gara¾12¼Compact and well kept. The residence ofthe brother of the Mek of Fazogli.
Khor Tumat½12¾Quarter mile furtheron through the dura fields the Khor Tumat is reached. About 200 or300 yards broad here. Very shallow level bed, sandy. Road goesstraight on, crossing it diagonally to where it is joined by theKhor Masarkum. Some pools of very dirty stagnant water here. Betterwater to be obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor Masarkum from theholes dug in the bed of the khor by the inhabitants of this place.The water also is very bad however and full of mud.
Khor Masarkum¼13
Masarkum (Sheikh Bikori)¼13¼A fair sized village, surrounded by durafields. Rest house. Sheep, eggs, and milk (cows) readily obtained.There is (1900) only one cow however in the town, the remainderhaving been looted by Dervishes.
Leaving Masarkum the road runs south-westalong a ridge or plateau on the left bank of the Khor Masarkum. Theground on this side of the khor is much smoother, and there islittle thorn as far as J. Burgan. On the opposite side the bushappears to be thick. There is a quantity of cultivation; dura grownto a great height and producing fine ears. All soil appears good.Several villages are visible on the north side of the road. All goby the name of Ragreig which is probably the word for the class ofslaves or serfs that inhabit them. Road very good.
J. Burgan4¾18A low hill south of road marks the limitof cultivation, and from this the bush is thicker, though there islittle thorn, chiefly low large leaved trees, like young oaks, andthin grass.
Khor Masarkum (1st crossing)1¼19¼Khor Masarkum iscrossed four times. It is here known as Khor Timsah. At the firstcrossing water still in natural pools, and at third crossingobtainable by digging. It is about 20 feet wide, with sandy bottom,and vertical banks 12 feet high. Probably unfordable in flood.
3rd crossing2¼21½
After fourth crossing a dry and waterlesscountry is entered. Hardly any khors, and these extremely small.One patch of cultivation surrounded by a zeriba about ½ mile beyondlast crossing. Otherwise thin bush and grass. Road good on thewhole, but there is a good deal of loose stone.
J. Farfira (Pass)425½Road runs along foot of this jebel forsome distance, and then crosses it by a pass about 200 feet high.Ascent and descent rough and stony, but not very difficult fordonkeys. Rest house here.
Road now keeps close to the foot of J.Farfira, and keeping its original direction, leaves J. Gamella onthe right.
South of J. Gamella there are more tracesof water, and the khors become more frequent and larger. Countryundulating.
Khor El Hassan8¾34¼Khor with hard shingle bed about 30 yardsbroad. High steep banks. Rest house here. Water good and plentiful,but only by digging. Tributary of the Khor Tumat flowingnorthwards.
After crossing khor, country again flatand waterless, and covered with thin bush and grass.
J. Gami3½37¾Road skirts northern spur and then runsin a south easterly direction towards centre of J. Ragreig. Groundnow becomes uneven and much intersected by small khors flowing fromthe neighbouring hills to join Khor Shikatar. This khor rises in J.Ragreig and is at this point about 10 yards broad. Rocks and gravelin bed. Low banks.
The hills comprising J. Ragreig form ahorseshoe, up the central valley between the horns of which theroad runs. After crossing the Khor Shikatar for the first time, theroad gradually ascends a spur running down from the main or westernridge of J. Ragreig. About ¼ mile further on it gradually returnsto the valley, and crossing the Khor Shikatar it rises to the passbetween the main peak of Ragreig and the conical peak immediatelyeast of it.
Road follows course of Khor Shikatarroughly. Ascent nowhere very steep, but rough and stony. Thick bushand trees in the valley.
J. Ragreig4½42¼The pass over which the road runs isroughly 250 feet high. Nothing can be seen to the north withoutascending one of the two peaks on either side, owing to trees; tothe south a good view of the country can be seen, especially J.Keili, distant about 7 miles. This pass forms the boundary betweenFazogli and Keili. Guides state that ridge west of road belonged toFazogli, and that east of road to Keili. Jebel was originallyinhabited, but is now deserted. Inhabitants have gone, some toFazogli, some to Keili, forming the various Ragreig villages whichare scattered about. Descent from pass on south side much steeperthan ascent on north. Road zigzags at first, and then runs straightdown, passing between two small jebels. Very rough and stony. Jebelon right inhabited by Ragreig people, no name obtainable.
Country now very level again with slopedownwards towards J. Keili. Thin bush and grass. Road good.
Khor Magansor2½44¾Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High banks.No water at present.
Khor Ofat½45¼Twenty yards wide. Bed here full ofrocks. Water plentiful. Pools still remaining, but water stagnant,and it is necessary to dig to obtain good water (Jan. 1900).
½45¾Cultivation now begins opposite northernextremity of J. Keili, but only in patches, which are enclosed inthorn zaribas. Chiefly dura.
Road runs through centre of level groundlying between J. Keili on the right and Jebels Anguba and Fasholaon the left.
1½47¼Cultivation becomescontinuous, extending to foot of jebels on either side of road.Large trees scattered about, especially near jebels. Mek’s houselies at the foot of J. Keili, opposite J. Fashola.
Keili (camp under J.Fashola)148¼
There is no regular village, as the tuklsare scattered round at the foot of the hills. All the centre partof the valley is more or less under water during the rains.
Rest house here. Supplies of all kindsexcept vegetables and fruit are plentiful. I counted one herd of 20fine cows on first entering valley. Natives will take Egyptian money, but seemto prefer empty bottles or necklaces, soap would probably go well.Donkeys are scarce, and it is difficult to hire or buy.
Road on leaving valley skirts J. Fasholaclosely, and then heads nearly due south for J. Kamye.
Towards south and west there is a stretchof apparently unbroken flat bush to the horizon. Cultivation ceasesalmost directly.
Khor Gulbis1½49¾Ten yards wide, said to flow into BlueNile near Abu Shaneina.
At 2 miles from Keili there is a knoll onsome high ground, with a large and prominent tree, which forms agood landmark when approaching from the north.
J. Kamye——A low lying range of round-topped hills.No rock showing, grass right up to summit. Road passes throughoutlying spurs and knolls of this jebel on the western side. Comecultivation on northern slopes, and a great deal (chiefly dura) onthe south-west.
Khor Dunga453¾Leaving J. Kange on right, road passesthrough some low ground covered with bamboo, probably swampy inrainy season, crossing Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.
Road now crosses a succession of smallkhors, all running west to join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges betweenkhors.
Khor Umburri3¾57Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy bed,bush becomes thicker beyond this khor.
Khor Ahemir1¾58¾Five yards wide, low banks where roadcrosses; joins Khor Timsah about ¾ mile further west.
Khor Timsah¼59Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed, steepbanks; flows about due west where crossed by road, but turns northabout ¼ mile further down stream. Probably joins Khor Gulbis.
One large and deep pool of water atpresent, where road crosses, supply considerable, and fish can becaught in it; very muddy water, but appears to be good.
Road becomes more level now, and fewersmall khors to cross.
J (?)2¼61¼Low hills, thickly covered with grass andbush.
Road runs up a central spur. Ascentgradual and road fairly good. Descent on north side also alongspur, but steeper; road not so good, and covered with loosestones.
Khor Gummi2¾64Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.
Khor Mingil½64½A small shall khor. Hills (J. Mingil) nowbegin on either side. Road good, no steep gradients. Bush all overthe hills, very thick in the valleys, but thinner, and long grasson top.
J. Kurmuk3¾68¼Gradual descent to foot of J. Kurmuk.Tukls scattered round jebel, but probably not very manyinhabitants.
Latter all fled at our approach, and verylittle information could be obtained. No water near road, but alittle is said to be procurable further round jebel. Apparentlynothing for sale.
Road to Dul now turns off in a moreeasterly direction, and takes a straight course towards the jebel,which is plainly visible. Country quite flat and shallow until KhorEl Dahab is reached. Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy duringrains.
Khor Wirta½68¾Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just afterthis khor a road branches off to right, which, according to theguides, is used as an alternative road to Dul in wet weather, itrejoins the main road further on.
Khor el Dahab3½72¼Twenty yards wide, banks steep, about 20feet high, sandy bed. Winds very much in and out amongst thesebends for some distance before actually crossing it. Good waterobtainable here at present, also at a place about 200 yards beforethat, at which the road crosses khor. Gold found here about ¼ milebefore crossing khor; there are a number of circular shaft about 3feet in diameter, and some about as much as 20 feet deep, fromwhich the earth is taken. This is the first important khor in thebasin of the White Nile.
Khor Goshindo2¾75Small khor with steep banks.
Road now becomes hilly, and follows edgeof high ground, the ground on the left falling away rapidly to khorin valley below.
Dul2¼77¼No actual town, but a number of tuklsscattered about outlying spurs of Dul, also on north side ofvalley, and khor, which runs down in a north-westerly directionfrom the hills.
The natives depend entirely upon the goldwhich they find, and import all supplies from Gomasha. Nothingseems to be grown in this country. They are an idle and veryunintelligent people, and are unwilling to be of any assistance.They seem to be genuinely afraid of the Abyssinians. Waterplentiful and fairly good obtained in khor.
Road now takes a southerly direction andskirts the eastern slopes of J. Dul, winding in and out amongst itsspurs. Road rough in places and stony, but on the whole good. Tuklson all the high ground.
Khor Biberis1½78¾Small khor with rocky bed.
Khor Adunga½79¼Small shallow khor. Gold pits alongbanks.
Arakuba¼79½A collection of a few tukls on the mainjebel.
Khor Udanduk1¼80¾Actual channel 5 yards wide, it has lowbanks, and evidently overflows its banks. Road crosses it justbeyond the south-western spur of J. Dul, and heads direct for J.Mindon.
Khor Gensogala¼81Five yards wide, sandy bed.
(Forked roads)¼81¼Road divides; that on right going toKirin viâ Kumfo, and Jebels Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta;that on the left viâ Goha, Asosa, and Fadasi.
The former is a direct road, and couldeasily be made fairly good by clearing bamboo and levelling. It isvery little used, however, and there are no villages along it.Water is somewhat scarce. The latter, as far as we went, is a verybad hilly road; but a great trade route and very much used.Probably good when once the watershed is crossed.
—81¼Take right hand road at fork (left toGomasha). Road crosses a number of small khors. Ground betweenlow-lying, and would probably be mostly under water during rains. Agreat deal of bamboo. Road difficult to find.
Khor Ageheni¾82Broad shallow khorwith low banks and sandy bed. Road followed by us did not crosskhor at this point, but took us some distance more to the westbefore doing so. We were without guides, however, and the road isdifficult to follow. Probably we made an unnecessary detour. Plentyof water just below the surface. Natives were washing gold justbelow where we crossed; their tukls are scattered all abouthere.
1¼83¼
J. Kumfo1¾85Small jebels with tukls on them; a littlecultivation; road passes west of them.
Khor (?)186Road passes between jebels, crossingsmall khor, very rough and rocky, and sides of khor steep. Roadruns now along eastern slopes of hills. Very rough and covered withbamboo, which brings rate of progress of caravan down to about 2miles per hour. From here to the camp by the small khor S. of KhorDelligi.
Khor Belligi1¼87¼Twenty five yards broad, very shallow,sandy bed. No water.
Khor (?)188¼Small khor with very rocky bed anddifficult crossing for Hamla. Two large pools of very good water(Jan. 1900).
Road continues in a south-easterlydirection. Bush on both sides, but a small patch of cultivation onthe right at one place.
(Forked roads)189¼Road divides; take right hand branch,leading straight towards J. Beldoesu.
190¼Two small shallow khors, 15 yards wide,sandy.
Khor (?)1¼91½Khor 20 yards wide, a little water ondigging.
J. Beldoesu——Road now keeps along western slopes of J.Beldoesu. Numerous small deep khors to cross, and groundexceedingly rough and difficult for Hamla. On leaving J. Beldoesuroad improves and runs up and across valley between J. Fanaoge andJ. Fanagamenta.
K. Zalan5¼96¾A large quantity of excellent water inpools in the rock. Best place for Hamla to cross is by a sandbank,just above the rock.
Beyond Khor Zalan the road is fairlygood, but progress of Hamla is very much hampered by thebamboo.
(Pass)6¼103Road gradually ascends, and finally runsover a low and easy pass between J. Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.Pass about 200 feet high. Descent on south side along easternslopes of valley. Khors are numerous and very deep, but no water.Road extremely rough and hilly.
Khor Ahrakad5¼108¼Small khor with stony bed. A little wateron digging, but supply salty and very limited. This khor is notactually crossed by the road at the point where best water isfound, but lies a short distance to the east.
J. Taza——A fair sized jebel with two peaks andextremely steep sides. Road passes west of it.
Khor Lashe¾109Small khor with steep banks.
¾109¾Road forks; keep to right.
Khor Turus(or Yander)½110¼Broad khor with stony bed.
J. Belsuri——Road now passes between J. Belsuri onleft and J. Hode on right. Rather hilly and rough.
J. Hode——These hills are inhabited, and there issome cultivation.
1¼111½Forked roads in open space; keep toleft.
In the valley, through which road nowruns, there is a great deal of cultivation. Flat bush as far as theeye can reach towards south and south-west.
Khor Gaduk3114½Small khor with steep banks, a littlemuddy water still left above ground (Jan. 1900).
Agani1½116A few tukls; a considerable quantity ofcultivation, chiefly dura.
(Forked roads)1117Forked roads; keep to right.
(Forked roads)1½118½Forked roads—keep to left.
Khor (?)¼118¾Small khor 10 yards wide—south banksteep.
Ashuli¼119A few tuklssurrounded by cultivation. Road turns to left and then bears roundto right, and skirts the southern slopes of J. Gushu; rough inplaces, but good on the whole.
J. Gushu——
Khor Shugalu (Khor Befar)¾119¾Large khor with high steep banks, sandybed. Good water plentiful; much cultivation along banks, includingonions, water-melons, &c.
After crossing khor, ground rather unevenand grass and bush rather thick, until you get close to J. Kirin.Open ground along its base.
Kirin (Sheikh Hamed’sHouse)1½121¼Tukls scattered all round the jebel, butmost of the big men seem to live close to this place.
Open ground at base of hill, and verygood place for camp at present, but might be wet during rainyseason. Water taken from wells in sand about ¼ mile away, rathermuddy, and of a thick white colour like milk. Supply scanty atpresent, and our party finally took their water from Khor Shugalu.Inhabitants most friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens, eggs, and dura inoverwhelming quantities, were sent as presents. Onions and milk(goats) can be obtained, but supply is limited.
People are ready to sell for gold(native, in rings), beads, soap, old bottles, tins, &c. Beads(blue or red) seem to be the chief thing required. Salt is alsogood. We got rid of a few fasses, but iron does not seem to be inrequest. Spear heads are no good. Cloth of the most brilliantcolours possible would probably also go well. Sheikh Hamed haslarge stores of dura in tukls on the hill, and sold it to us at 3gold rings (each worth about 45 piastres) the ardeb. There is asmall quantity of semsem (5 rings the ardeb) and lubia.
From Kirin the road runs straight onnearly due south. Some bad rocky places, until the spurs of themountain are all left behind, the road then level and fairly good,passing through bush of varying thickness, but with very littlethorn in it, and patches of bamboo along the banks of thekhors.

133.—KIRIN to KODOK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, April, 1903.

A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to Kodok, April, 1903.

No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than usual for extreme end of dry season.

There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make the journey in the reverse direction.

The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other reasons.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kirin——From Kirin there are several tracksleading west to the farm village belonging to Ahmed Wad Yimr.
Khor Yabus at junction with KhorSerekoli1313Water is obtainable at several places,vide Map.
The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas asAyaya, and to the Khomas as Kizi, is a strong flowing stream 40feet wide and 1 foot deep, rocky bottom and wooded banks. Soil inneighbourhood mostly sandy and firm. Stream full of fish, whichmany Kirin people come to catch and dry. Fishing places do notextend more than 20 miles west of Kirin.
As I had been told the Khor Yabus took asharp bend S. after clearing the hills I chose the left bank, so asto avoid missing the turn. The ground near the khor was stony andbroken by side khors, so marched well clear of stream. Ground firmand bush not thick enough to be an obstacle. If grass had not beenburnt going would have been difficult.
Khor Mia1326Went to Yabus for water at its junctionwith a large khor (probably Khor Mia), coming from the Khomamountains. The character of the Yabus had changed, and now ran overa level sandy bed, water 6 inches deep, banks cotton soil, marshyand high grass jungle. Country on either side almost entirely open,but large trees by the khor. Country from this point to thebeginning of Burun villages swarms with game—buffalo and elephant.Hunting parties from Kirin, with rifles, constantly about.
Khor531Kept clear of banks of khor again, whichwere swampy and had thick jungle in places. Country away from riveropen and slightly undulating.
J. Belshingi and JebelBelatoma132Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor passesbetween Jebel Belshingi on N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A rockyoutlying knoll of latter close to stream gives a fair campingground at its base. A wide marshy khor comes from the south justbefore reaching this knoll.
Knoll335The Yabus winds round the south end of J.Belshingi and spreads out into two marshy lakes, a small rockyknoll forming the extreme south end of J. Belshingi (though onopposite side of khor) lying between the lakes.
The north bank of Yabus is wooded, butcountry to south is open. Bed of stream winds through wide marshybelt. Skirting the marsh, game tracks gave good going.
Village (deserted) (?) Mago439First Burun village was deserted. Foundit had been raided by Kirin people two months before, and SheikhDigga had been killed. Village had evidently been occupied since.From this village found a good track, and, after 3 miles, bushbecame thick; many dom palms.
N’yunka443N’yunka, a collection of villages amongdom thickets. No men at first to be seen, but surprised some womenwho shortly induced men to appear. Latter very frightened at first.All armed with long bows, wooden pointed featherless arrows andgenerally a spear, and quite naked.
Yabus crossing952A good track ran through wooded countryS. of the Yabus, passing the villages of Toma, N’dinga, Bane Bugga,Ote, Onka and the villages of Sheikh Washa. At these latter crossedthe Yabus, which from this point turns S.W. The Buruns could notgive me any clear account of where it went to, but thought itdischarged into Sobat. I believe it opens out into a swampy lakewhich also receives the Sonka, and part of the water from this maymake its way to the Sobat near Nasser and part into the Khor Adar.When last seen there was a good flow of water. The country to S.W.appeared to be thickly wooded, and I could not ascertain to whatextent it was inhabited.
Track continued to be good, and passedthrough villages of Kanje and Loma, almost deserted owing todistance from Walu to Bangaia.
Bangaia759Hafirs. The village is small and thehafirs are in a marshy overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E. of village.These Burun hafirs are generally dug in marshy spots, and sometimesare merely reservoirs, sometimes really gammams. They are carefullycovered in with sticks, and grass and water is generally clean andgood. At Bangaia very good and plentiful.
Tuer362Small village with hafir—several desertedvillages between it and Bangaia.
Beio5½67½Track good, country fairly open. Smallvillage.
Hillock168½Very small hillock with few huts.
Kyela2½71Kyela is a group of several villages withwide track of cultivation. Inhabitants gone away for water.
After 4 miles track ceases, and guides tookus N.W., avoiding a piece of badly broken cotton soil.
K. Yungen980Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A gammam withsome very bad water in Khor Yungen.
Nyeda383Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400 peopleon Khor Murga (probably the same as Khor Yungen). Poor water ingammams in khor. These are 6 feet deep and fill slowly; barely gavewater enough for 50 animals and 50 men.
From here a good number of people know alittle Arabic or Dinka. The Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has beenfighting with the surrounding villages.
The whole district is called Dar El Imamand was under a Sheikh called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man wasmurdered some four years ago, and Dar El Sagia claims to be hissuccessor, but is not recognised by most of the villages. This isabout the limit of the raiding of the Beni Shangul people.
Khor Murga is said to be a branch of thebig khor which formed from the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and JebelFanagamenta, passes close to J. Jumjum under the name of KhorTumbakh.
J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa and isthe southern limit of Idris Wad Regab’s influence at present. KhorTumbakh appears to split up into branches, and one probably reachesKhor Adar near Rengachuk.
Hafirs487Two good hafirs. Track bad over brokencotton soil.
Nyeda (Sh. Tukani) camp895After passing hafirs track becomes verygood and goes through a number of villages whose inhabitants hadgone to water. About two miles short of camp entered on a widestretch of cultivation, cotton soil. Scattered villages. No definedkhor, but probably the whole under water in the rains from overflowof Khor Tumbakh. There were many gammams, but water very bad andmuddy.
Dinko Wad Dageig7102Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko WadDageig was last Burun village. It is situated in a grove of dompalms, dry sandy soil. Water from gammam 10 feet deep, plentifuland good. This village is in about 10° 10′ and 30° 10′ E.
Tibn13115There is no defined track west of this,but hunting parties frequently go to El Tame. Passed over opencountry; cotton soil, rather rough going. Passed the Debba of Tibnlying ¼ mile to right just before entering a track of park land;heglig trees.
Tibn was the most outlying of the Dinkavillages, but had been deserted since the beginning of the Mahdia.Water used to be stored in hafirs, but now none.
A second debba was seen about four milesfurther W.
El Tame10125Heglig trees last for eight miles, andcotton soil is bad. El Tame is a marshy lake, or rather two largepools in a khor, which, however, does not appear to connect toanything.
Water is plentiful, but muddy and fouledby game. There are no trees or anything to mark the position of thewater except flocks of birds. Game very abundant, and both Burunsand Dinkas come to hunt. The latter are very much afraid of theBuruns.
Khor Adar15140Kept S.W. for 15miles. Cotton soil and fairly good going; country generally openwith a few clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar at some feriksbelonging to Sheikh Wal Awal at about the point where CaptainWilson’s reconnaissance ended. This point is about 40 miles dueeast of Kodok. The Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok always followthe Khor Adar to Rengachuk and thence across to the Nile at Mialek,which makes a journey at least 20 miles longer and involves severalcrossings of the Khor Adar.
Kodok60 (?)200 (?)

134.—KHOR BOSUK[43], viâ KHOR EINE to GOHA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp (Khor Bosuk)——
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)1212The road runs along the foot of the N.slopes of J. Beldoesu; a new road now made along other side ofvalley and along course of stream which is much better going.
From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lotof water (running in khor), the road goes up a slope up theShanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old village). Theascent up the valley is easy at first, but afterwards up steepslopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up—at one place arunning stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels theroad would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places onthe tops of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine719From top of pass the road goes along theplateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, wherethere is a flowing stream, good shade and grazing, and campingground.
Camp at Goha322From Khor Eine good road round spur leadsinto Goha, about 2 miles before reaching which road branches off toAsosa, going in a southerly direction. The tukls are on the foot ofslope of J. Goha and also all over the top of the hill. J. Goha isa series of broken, rocky hills, and is in reality a spurprojecting from the higher plateau.
There is a fair amount of cultivation inpatches in the open valley. There is a running stream at foot ofGoha Hill on N. side, which is fed by many tributaries, most ofwhich contain running water. There is a good camping ground acrossthis stream on low hills facing the lower N. slopes of J. Goha,water and grazing plentiful. Supplies of dura apparently got fromAsosa. There were only about 20 cattle to be seen, and no sign ofany trade going on or Gallabas about. This may be due to thedisturbed state of the country and the roads being closed.
(Note.—Asmall party of cavalry marched along this road at the rate of 3 to4 miles per hour.)

135.—GOHA, viâ K. BARSU to BOSUK.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp Goha——Left Camp Goha in a north-westerlydirection—road leads across the plateau and crosses some khors.This is a good road and apparently much used by Gallabas, as theircamping places at intervals on the khors were passed—where there isthe usual pool or trickling stream. The road comes to top of passmarked 4,670 feet. From here an extensive view is obtained of Dul,J. Jerok, etc.
The descent of the pass is steep,although the road is well defined. There is only one real goodhalting place on a spur before descending into the Barsuvalley.
K. Barsu914The road crosses the khor at aconspicuous Gemmeiza tree where there is water in small quantities.Further on the stream runs in places and disappears again. A good camping ground isreached a 5 hours from camp at Goha which is used by Gallabas.
Camp Khor Bosuk822The road leads along the khor, waterrunning at intervals of 45 minutes; from this point the roadsseparate to Dul Jerok and towards Mindok. Taking the last one khorunder J. Agadi is reached—good grazing and water here, andvegetables cultivated—from here camp Bosuk is one hour and halfalong the broken ground at foot of slopes of the Beldoesuvalley.
(Note.—Asmall party of Cavalry marched along this route at an average rateof 2¾ miles per hour.)

136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK[44] to ASOSA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp Khor Bosuk——The road runs along the foot of the N.slopes of J. Beldoesu. A new road has now been made along the otherside of valley and along course of stream, which is much bettergoing.
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)1212From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lotof water (running in khor). The road goes up a slope up theShanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old villages). Theascent up the valley is easy at first, afterwards up steep slopeswith rocks. Water is met with twice on way up, at one place arunning stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels theroad would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places onthe top of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine719From top of pass the road goes along theplateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, wherethere is a flowing stream, good shade, grazing and campingground.
Khor Afaferi1332From Khor Eine good road round spur intoGoha. About 2 miles out on this road Goha-Asosa track strikes it ina southerly direction, goes up parallel to N. slopes of Goha hills,crossing pass on to top of plateau; water-course on N. side ofroad, water also. Nearly at once cross a khor on top of plateauwith water which flows down in direction Khor Zalan. Road rocky infew places, but on whole good. Good camp at Khor Afaferi, 13miles.
Good road crosses a marsh near AbdelRahman Wad Khojali’s village, which is passed after 2½ hours’march. Asosa comes in view across a wide valley which takes over 1hour to get round; a water course passed. Convenient to water herebefore going into Asosa, as water some distance off village.
Asosa1547Asosa is a collection of villages on alarge spur which is part of the plateau and juts out over avalley.
There are three rocky hills, all withhouses on them. People prosperous and well to do. A certain amountof cultivation near, but chief cultivation near a small hill E. ofAsosa. Sheikh Hamed apparently a very determined ruler and looksafter his people. There is an Abyssinian post here of about 15 to20 men.
(Note.—Atroop of Sudanese regular cavalry and a party of mounted irregularsmarched by this route at the rate of 3 miles per hour, forcedmarching.)

137.—ASOSA to KHOR BOSUK, viâ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Asosa——Leaving Asosa by roadto Goha and march for an hour along it. Then branch off W. and dropoff plateau on to a succession of small hills, with villages, goingalong crest of their spurs. A few steep and rocky places incrossing khors—to Khor Dadeferi—running stream with village aboveit, not much room for camp.
K. Dadeferi1010
Ascent out of khor steep to village;steep ascents and descents, passing cultivated clearings andvillages (all Hamed’s).
Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla)818Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla), goodrunning stream, pretty open ground here, good camp, grassplentiful. Road now rises abruptly.
Khor Akori624Road, after rising abruptly out of valleyover hill, goes W., very steep and rocky track. Apparently not beenmuch used lately; passes over low rocky hills, a constant up anddown, S. of J. Fanoje and then turns N. along foot of Fanoje hills,crosses Khor Akori, water here by digging, good grass.
Khor Zalan630After a mile strike Kirin road, alongthis to Khor Zalan; water plentiful, also grass.
Camp Bosuk636Go along track for 3 miles, then strikeoff to W., cross khor with water into camp.

138.—GORE to ABWONG (on SOBAT).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, February to March, 1904.

Note.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the driest season, i.e., February to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
GoreGore is described elsewhere. It issurrounded by hills, some of which appear to be of nearly equalheight. Country thickly wooded, but being cleared forcultivation.
2½2½Track from here gets bad, going throughforest and over a khor, east bank of which is very steep anddifficult.
3½6Forest gets very thick and tangled, rootsand fallen trees lying across track. Hills very steep.
39Forest gets thinner, and glimpses of Gorecan be had. Villages also appear in the open clearings. Some of therivers hereabouts are bridged, but the bridges are very bad anddangerous for animals, which can in dry season cross byfording.
Rest house3¼12¼House where travellers generally stopfirst march out from Gore, or last march in.
1⅛13⅜Rocky river bed to cross. Route for next6 miles is hilly and thickly wooded; several rivers to cross,mostly with rocky bottoms.
5⅝19Beginning of Bure district; country muchmore open and thickly populated and cultivated; track much lesshilly and wider.
5⅞24⅞Market place on top of a hill; markettwice a week.
Ato Melka’s house4⅝29½Track much better here and hills notdifficult, country cleared of trees to great extent and muchcultivated.
130½Market place.
Ato Takallé’s house5⅞36⅜Situated on a hill. River to cross justbefore reaching it. Takallé is governor of all Bure, and is chargedwith guarding the pass at Goma, which leads up from the Barocountry.
Guard440⅜Guard house on hill (tukls and a “hosh”).Officer stationed here with about 30 men to guard the pass andreport all arrivals and departures to the Ras.
Goma646⅜Rest houses on the top of pass. Descentfor first two miles very difficult, track winding amongst bouldersand large rocky slabs. It is necessary to use one’s hands and kneesin getting up some of the places.
2⅛48½Enter forest and cross mountain torrent,which would probably be impassable after heavy rains. From heredown to the Baro ford is not difficult, though tiring, and, exceptfor one or two bad ravines, loaded animals can get along withoutmuch difficulty.
River Baro (ford)452½Baro Ford spanned by a very rickettywooden bridge, which is no longer safe. Animals and men crossriver-bed in dry season: 3-4 feet of water. Crossing very difficultowing to rocky uneven bottom and strong current, river here beingsuccession of rapids. After crossing Baro, track leaves river andruns round hill, joining river again about 4 miles further on, fromwhence track follows river more or less closely as far as
Gambela1264½Long scattered district, villages mostlyon R. bank; a few small villages hidden in the forest on L. bank,inhabitants of which fled on appearance of Abyssinians. Recognisedferry here, two dug-outs. River, however, fordable for animals(January 14). Thick forest both banks. River full of hippos andcrocodiles. Track leaves river here and runs about a mile inland asfar as
R. Bonga1½6610 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and 1 to 2feet water. Sandy bottom and passage easy. The regular trackwestwards from Gambela is on R. bank. I, however, followed L. bankto investigate. Gambela is called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track fromhere very bad, almost nonexisting, it being necessary to hew a waythrough the jungle in places. Ground very rocky at foot of smallhills.
River Ichok1177
River Wonkai1½78½
River Wangd Wong179½
River Wanten¾80¼All above dry (February, 1904). Widthfrom 20 to 50 yards. Sandy bottoms and steep banks. Must be quiteimpassable after heavy rains, but Anuaks say that they quicklydrain off.
Ile de Faidherbe½80¾Series of rapids and small islands in dryseason. Site where steamer was stranded marked by huge stone like atomb-stone, 10 feet high, on a grass-covered island, which issubmerged at high Nile. Anuaks and Abyssinians say the Faidherbewas carried away about three months after being left there, inthree pieces, by Joti’s and Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men carryinga section on a tree trunk. Traces of broad track cleared for thispurpose on river bank noticeable now. Small village right, track onleft very bad, runs through long grass and forest to beginningof
Finkio (Penkio) (site of TradingStation)7¾88½Finkio; nativespronounce it Finkio, not Penkio. Villages, i.e., clustersof huts or homesteads all along river here onwards. Names ofvillages marked on map are misleading, as the name applies to adistrict perhaps 10 miles long. A shorter track exists from nearOgara to Itang, but I could not take it, as it was past mid-day,and I had to halt on water. Track on to Itang from Nyokwar verybad, as it follows all bends of river except in one place, andground is a succession of small deep gullies that are impassablefor transport unless ramped, or marched round.
Nyokwar14½103
Ideni14½117½Beginning of district of Ideni R. andItang L.
Itang3120½Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave. SheikhGelo, brother-in-law of Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is much fearedby Anuaks, whoapproach his presence on all fours. Baro fordable here (February),2 to 3 feet deep. Fine Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good forest offuel trees in vicinity.
Most of these distances will not comparewith the map, as there is no regular track on left bank. Owing toswampy nature of country in rains, track continually changes asfresh ground becomes passable and country dries up and gets burnt.Track in places dangerous, as it runs through dense long grass,within a foot of a 10 to 15 feet drop into river. Cows andtransport animals fell over this on several occasions.
Ajuoto1121½Track between Itang and Gambela must befollowed on right bank, that on left is too bad. Cross river atItang. One mile on is village, part of district of Pangmala,village being under Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is situated in adense rubber forest, and the rubber vines are found all along theriver in the Anuak country. Nobody collects the rubber. Allapproaches to this village were closed with thorn “abattis,” owingto the presence of Abyssinians.
1122½Cross a small khor, which is sandy andfordable for animals at this point only at this time of year. Thereis a shorter track, which leaves the Sheikha’s village on theright, but leads to a wide part of the khor, impassable to animalsowing to deep mud. Track now runs along edge of dense forest rightand broad khor left, with forest beyond.
3125½Forest left ceases and khor runs intoopen plain. Track crosses khor several times; liable to be muddyand difficult.
2127½Big khor runs down from forest on rightto river, passable only close up to forest.
1128½Another big khor to cross, similar toabove; mouth of this khor very deep and steep, impassable foranimals, which must cross up by forest. Track now inland, 1 to 2miles from river.
11½140Big khor to cross with lake inland, about1 mile from river.
Kaich1141Large Nuer village marked as Kaich, butname not recognised. Track from here uniformly good, passing over abroad grass plain which lies beyond the belt of trees that fringethe Baro and the forest further inland. The plain is burnt inJanuary and becomes passable; it is under water during the rains.Several Nuer dry season villages along the plain, but these peopleall go off in the rains inland; probably a few small villagesremain, that are built on small mounds. Game abounds in the forestinland here.
3144Track strikes a big khor and runs alongN. bank of it for 1½ miles, and then crosses it. Villages dottedall along khor.
2146Cross khor again nearits junction with river near big round island. River round thisisland (S. channel) is very rapid and difficult. Villages all alonghere, track runs inland and passes big village shown on map asKaig, which name is not recognised. Nuers have mostly left thisvillage since traders arrived.
Kaig5151
R. Adura1152Balamkun, or Kwemnum, eastern junction ofAdura with Baro. Adura mouth dry (2nd January), but water in largereach further along. Good gemmeiza trees all along Baro up to herefor last few miles, but no trees met with after this until Ajungmir(mile 216).
K. Chaich4½156½Khor Chaich, not shown on map.
R. Baitiok3⅞160⅜Khor Baitiok dry (February), 10 yardswide, shallow; track has followed this khor for last threemiles.
K. Jokau½160⅞Khor Jokau, 2 to 2½ feet of water, verystrong current, waterway 20 feet wide. Natives all say that this isthe only mouth of Garre and that Khor Machar does not communicatewith Garre. Villages of Baitiok, or Chanchai opposite on left bank.Cultivation—both banks and huts. These Nuers come from Garjak wheretheir wet-season villages are.
3163⅞Big shallow khor, full of weeds butnearly dry. Track all along here is excellent, several miles inlandfrom river; burnt grass plain.
Kwe6¾170⅝Large winter village of Nuers, Kwe; veryfriendly; track now descends to the river at
K. Machar3173⅝Only a winter (dry season) residence;groups of these temporary villages are dotted about. Khor Machardried up. Natives say it does not discharge water, but only fillsup from the Baro. The mouth of Khor Machar is much bigger than thatof Jokau.
5⅝179¼Big khor runs E. and W. with water in it.There is no track here at all (February, 1904), and way had to beforced through jungle of rank unburnt grass.
Kamkiri (E.)6⅞186⅛E. end of island of Kamkiri. Village ¾mile inland. River called Mainyal; only temporary. Distances fromMachar are probably all too long, owing to winding about throughthe grass; under similar circumstances however they will not befound to be much less.
Kamkiri (W.)3½189⅝W. end of island of Kamkiri. Not a treevisible anywhere, and no shade available. Grass unburnt (21stFebruary), and going very difficult.
10½200⅛Khor with half a foot of water init.
K. Loinkildom4¼204⅜Khor muddy, steep banks, probably thatshown on map as Loinkildom, which name was not recognised.
¼204⅝Another khor similar to above.
K. Makeir⅝205¼Khor Makeir and village right, very bigkhor, 15 feet deep, 40 to 50 yards. Wide sandy bottom, dry andpassable in places (February). Water in deep pools.
6211¼Going as bad as before. Thin bush startsright.
1¾213Khor with water in it; muddy bottom, 3feet wide, 3 feet deep.
K. Nyakol2215Ten yards wide, 6 feet deep, 3 feet ofwater with mud; very perpendicular banks; this was a very badobstacle, even the saddles having to be taken off mules’ backs(February 22).
Ajungmir1½216½Village on right bank, trees near.
3¼219¾Track cuts across corner and strikesriver again at
Nyariau1¾221½Village of Nyariau, in 3 parts; 1 smallpart on bank of river, and 1 large and 1 small about 10 yardsinland. Track runs inland through bush and forest, and strikesriver at mile
2223½Very thick gemmeiza trees left bank, bushright. River fordable here (February, 1904).
3⅛226⅝Beginning of Anuak, part of Taufot, rightbank. Track cuts across here to
Taufot1¼227⅞Taufot (Nuer), very big compact village;stands back. Latest map shows big island near Taufot, but it isnon-existent.
Khor Wakau2¼230⅛Thirty yards wide at mouth, but opens outto nearer 150 yards higher up. Muddy bottom; 20 feet deep in rains,3 to 5 feet in dry season. Big village of Kadbeg short way upWakau.
Nasser3233⅛Nasser left, Kwoinlualtong, right bank,for the last 2 miles upstream from Nasser. River not fordable here(February), but animals swam over at lower end of island, oppositeNasser, without difficulty.
1234⅛Track enters forest (heglig and talh),track bad; cracked cotton soil.
Tolor5239⅛Khor and fishing village of Tolor; khor60 yards wide, and 3 to 5 feet deep, muddy. Track follows khor downright bank, and crosses it at junction with river at mile
2¼241⅜Crossing 3 feet deep, artificial channelfor catching fish. Track now follows river for 1½ miles, then cutsacross corner for Manajok.
3⅝245Khor with 2 feet of water in it; goodcrossing.
Manajok2⅞247⅞Manajok, Nuer part of village; swampbetween village and river, few trees.
¼248⅛Anuak part of village on bank, goodMeshra, thin bush behind.
Nyakoik1⅝249¾
⅜250⅛Thin heglig forest. Huts all along fromNyakoik.
Tuargai⅝250¾
Shillup6½257¼Good heglig forest left most of the way,and plenty of shade trees, though none shown on map. A khor 3 feetdeep, just before reaching Shillup. Track follows river till
Nyanglang2⅝259⅞And then cuts across corner throughforest to Fauwel.
Fauwel2¼262⅛Large scattered village, running backinto the woods; good shade trees and meshra and camping ground.Track all along bank.
K. Nyandieng2⅞265Very broad mouth, 1½ miles wide; maindischarge about 1 mile further on, deep and artificially deepenedfor fishing; crossed by two rough bridges. This khor is said toconnect with Nerol (Khor Filus). Some Nuers say it does, and somenot.
Manchom3⅝268⅝Shown on map as Sholwaga.
Shwol3271⅝Shown on map as Fugah. Track from here onedge of forest, swamp between it and river.
Gaiyat2⅛273¾Shown on map as Abong. Nuers would notaccept three names above as per map. A lot of these Nuer and Anuakvillages have two or more names, and people who use one namepretend not to know other.
Patiyam2275¾Thick forest behind swamp; few good shadetrees on bank. Track runs along edge of forest some distance fromriver.
Gohinya3¼279Scattered village hidden in forest.
Fanyang3282Scattered village in heglig forest. Trackfrom here runs over dry swamp. A track exists at certain seasons ofthe year, generally when grass is burnt, from Nyangdeng to nearFanyang, saving a big round by the river. A track also exists fromFanyang to Wigin in a direct line, but was reported to be stillchoked with grass (3rd March, 1904).
Malwal3¾285¾Track leaves river within sight ofMalwal, then runs through long grass to near Fedwil, then alongedge of khor and through bush to
Wigin4⅛289⅞Small village 20 yards back from river,with deep swamp between village and bank (dry marsh), 2 poor shadetrees in village. Track gets on to river bank at 291st mile.
1⅛291Good shade trees and thick bush; thickforest right bank ½ mile inland; end of Nuer country, though allalong from Nasser the country is populated with Nuers and Anuaksmixed, Nuers predominating and letting Anuaks live on suffrance.From here onwards path is through bush to
Shwai1292Long scattered Anuak village.
Fatiwanyang4296In thick bush. From here to Yakwoik broadswamp between bush and river. Track in dry season runs overswamp.
2⅝298⅝Khor with 2 feet water; several otherkhors to cross, marching along this swamp.
Yakwoik3301⅝Anuak village on river bank. No bush,only grass plain round village.
1½303⅛Junction of road thatcuts across to Gnok with river track. Good meshra at junction;thick bush left. Bush and few trees right. One mile inland. Fromhere track cuts across country to a debba on the river (DebbaDishin), where Yuzb. Abdel Rahim Eff. Nur El Gawab was buried in1902, having died on the way to Nasser. From here track followsriver, crossing two khors.
Debba Dishin13316⅛
Abwong[45]6⅝322¾A very big and important khor flows intothe Sobat at Abwong, called Wangnait; this runs inland pastFanathiang, and is said to join khor Filus at Nerol. Two feet ofwater in Wangnait (March, 1904), and running water. Abwong on sandyground, good meshra; upstream limit of Dinka country. Serut flieswere very bad, all through the thick bush country from Fauwel toYakwoik.

139.—GONDOKORO to UGANDA (and MOMBASA).

(Compiled by the Editor.)

Gondokoro and neighbourhood. (Vide also [ end of Chapter II] in Vol. I.)

By Captain Dugmore, 1901.

Country.Near Gondokoro the country is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the river, covered with borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt, and a few tamarinds and sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian (about 11 hours’ march). The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil clay. There are many very fertile islands in the Nile covered with cane-like reed, very like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and cultivate these islands, as they are not subject to white ants, grasshoppers, caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation has to contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage to grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation; the natives then go over to the mainland.

The station now occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old Egyptian post—a good many of the old trenches and parapets still exist. The old buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river, which is said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s time. Baker’s old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying piece of ground, about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two date palms, 11 lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain at Gondokoro.

Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual falls of the bank.

Garrison.One company of Uganda Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain, Lieutenant, and Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or Constabulary have been added, and are under the control of the Civil Authority, viz.: a Collector.

Supplies.At present nearly all stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from Mombasa, India, and England, viâ Kampala. Food is obtained by purchase from the natives.[46]

Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of semsem, telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean). The ground nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet potato requires irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to such laborious work.

Climate.The climate is fairly good, the rainy season at its commencement being the worst time of the year. Temperature:—

Averagemaximumduring thehot months is99°in the shade.
„minimum„„85°„
„maximumduring therest of the year is88°in the shade.
„minimum„„74°„

Seasons.Hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till end of March. Rains commence (or should do so) last week in March and last till middle of June, they commence again middle of July and last till middle of October.

The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and sometimes too much rain.

Products.Dura, maize, semsem, ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity of ivory. Salt from the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the Latuka. (N.B.—According to recent game regulations, it is forbidden to buy feathers unless it can be shown that they were pulled from a tame bird.)

Cattle.In the Nile province generally, the goats and sheep are small (much smaller than those of the Sudan), and have little to recommend them. The cattle (the few that are left) are also small, but are good milkers on the whole.

Game.Elephant, hippopotami and rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two former, a few zebras and giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s), waterbuck, bush buck, cobus Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig abound. Buffalo and warthog may be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild cat are fairly plentiful. (N.B.—During the dry weather months the game is found near the river in quantities; when the grass is high and there is water inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl, greater and lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl and partridges are nearly always to be shot.

(a.)—GONDOKORO to WADELAI.

By Captain Dugmore, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gondokoro——A good road, though apt to be swampy inthe rains.
River Kit1212Cross River Kit; a sandy river about 180yards wide, which is easily crossed except after very heavy rain(it subsides quickly). On the E. Lokoya’s chain of hills, about 11hours march; greatest height about 1,500 feet. Road through densethorn scrub, sidr very plentiful. Soil changes after passing Kit toa clayey formation in places, and stones and rocky kopjes becomeabundant. A rose quartz, very similar to the Rhodesian gold-bearingquartz in appearance, is plentiful. Most of the kopjes appear to beof volcanic origin. Ground rises in undulating folds from the Kitto opposite Dufile.
Fort Berkeley1022From Fort Berkeley (= Bedden—abandoned),two roads lead S., one inland on the high ground for use during thewet season.
Adam Madi830The river road follows the river as faras Adam Madi’s,[47] and is used when no water is obtainableon upper road. Fine scenery, very rocky ground, sandy; plentifulremains of old Bari villages. Near Adam Madi’s-beautiful park-likecountry, with very large timbers, both tamarind and (?) sycamore.Country now becomes more hilly and is more thickly populated.
The Khor Um or Uma is the real southernboundary of the Bari tribe, but the district is supposed to extendto the
Khor Assua6999Khor Assua (mouth 94 miles from Gondokoromeasured along the river) and, consequently, includes a fewvillages of Madi and Shuli tribes.
The road used to go some little way fromthe river to Affuddu (a few miles S. of Nimule, now abandoned), butsince the occupation of Nimule, the road from Adam Madi’s almostfollows the course of the river, which flows through high, almostprecipitous banks.
Nimule17116Garrison at Nimule, two companies ofSudanese (124 strong each), and the same number of British officerseach as at Gondokoro. Is headquarters of Nile military district,situated on N. bank of Unyama river at its junction with the Nile.Between Nimule and Wadelai the road is good.
Lamogi, in the Shuli country, 16 miles W.of Fatiko, and 50 miles S.S.E. of Nimule, is now abandoned; rainsabout 9 months in the year.
Wadelai77193Wadelai, on the right bank, is thehead-quarters of the Nile Province Civil Administration, somepolice or constabulary are posted here. River only 200 yards widehere. There is a road from here to Fajao (Murchison Falls), 46miles, not used now.
As one goes S., the climate generallybecomes cooler than at Gondokoro. It should also be healthier, butthere has been a lot of sickness among the British officers in thepast, perhaps due to bad quarters. Country S. of Khor Assua is morefertile and much more thickly populated than the Baridistrict.

Note.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage, Public Works Department, Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 15; and Handbook of Uganda, pp. 52-57.

(b.)—GONDOKORO to WADELAI.[48]

Place.Miles and Hours.[49]Description.
Intermediate.Total.
Miles.Hours.Miles.Hours.
Gondokoro————Path good.
Laung113½113½Path good, river Gomoro (Kit) is at timesbad to cross.
Camp134½248Path good.
Camp1553913Path good.
Fagiri1245117Path good; rocky in places. Largevillage; considerable supplies of food.
Keri1356422Path bad for 2 miles, remaindergood.
Arabu165½8027½Path very bad.
Junction Camp134½9332Path bad. River Assua difficult to cross.When in flood about 80 yards wide and 14 feet deep, with a swiftcurrent; when not in flood the river is fordable. Crossing is atall times dangerous on account of the numerous crocodiles.
Nimule144½10736½Path good. River Unyama at times bad tocross.
Zaipi18412540½Path good.
Boreli10413544½Path good.
Acho165½15150Path good. River Zoka at times bad tocross.
Pranga16616756Path good.
Avoi13418060Path good. River Chorr is at times bad tocross.
Wadelai19619966

Note.—A small supply of food can usually be supplied at each of the above camps, with the exception of the Junction Camp. Water is obtainable at all camps. At many places fish can be bought. Trade goods are brass, wire, small white beads, candles, matches, bottles, and some cloth. Tarbushes are much appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound in the Nile, and elephants between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are seen occasionally.

See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O., “Nimule to Gondokoro, and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 19.

The following short account of the country between Nimule and Gondokoro is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902), from Geographical Journal, December, 1902:—

“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which render the river unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above Gondokoro. This latter station and Nimule are connected by two roads, neither of them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was impracticable when I made the journey, as it was under water owing to recent rains;[50] the other runs further inland. It cannot be said to offer adequate means for communicating between two Government stations, or for the transport of any sort of goods. For a great part of its course is obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes, or grass 6 feet high; but here and there it passes through pleasant open meadows, studded with large trees. Part of it consists of precipitous paths cut in the rock, and it is crossed by many rivers, at least three of which, the Assua, the Karpata (?), and the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles to foot passengers when in flood, as I found them. The first is crossed on rafts made of ambach, a very light wood. The natives show considerable skill in guiding these rafts across the torrent, but the passenger or load is generally half submerged. The two other rivers have to be crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The Kit was about 150 yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that is to say, 6 night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”

THROUGH COMMUNICATIONS WITH MOMBASA.

(Compiled from Official Publications, &c.)

Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in order to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.

Nimule to Butiaba.From Nimule onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government boats. Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft is a small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles), (the Uganda Government Depôt on the E. shore of Lake Albert), a large steel boat which goes best under sail. The usual time occupied between Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to 12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down stream. A steam launch will shortly be placed on the river between these points.

Butiaba to Kampala.At Butiaba is a pier and landing stage. From Butiaba viâ Hoima to Kampala, 157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for driving. The distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time taken is 8 days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The Stages are:—

Miles. Miles. Miles.
1.Wachi62.Kajura93.Hoima[52]13
4.Kigonna105.Kikonda8½6.Yilo17
7.Kigoma[53]98.Kiboga5½9.Kisingo9½
10.Kative15½11.Kabula Mnbiro912.Nkvanuna11
13.Kikandwa13½14.Kisimbiri1115.Kampala9½

Most of the main roads pass through Kampala.

Kampala to Entebbe.From Kampala to Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza, is 23 miles along a good cart road.

Entebbe to Port Florence.From Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu, or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The crossing takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by sailing dhow.

Port Florence to Mombasa.From Port Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare, 109½ rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.

There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India and by German steamers.

Recapitulation.

Journey.Days.Transport.
Gondokoro to Nimule7 to 8March on foot. Carriers.
Nimule to Wadelai6 „ „
„ „ 6 to 8Row-boat.
Wadelai to Butiaba4 to 6Sailing boat.
„ „ 3Steam launch.
Butiaba to Kampala4 to 8Mule cart.
„ „ 10 to 12March. Carriers.
Kampala to Entebbe1Mule cart.
„ „ 2March. Carriers.
Entebbe to Port Florence2 to 3Steamer.
„ „ „ 8 to 15Sailing boat.
Port Florence to Mombasa2½Train.

Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½ days.

140.—ROADS in the LADO ENCLAVE.

Roads.A road runs from Kiro to Rejaf direct, at some distance from the river bank, with a branch road to Lado.

The road from Rejaf as far as Faraji—170 miles to the S.W.—is about the same width as a good English high road. It has many bridges over streams, small khors, &c. They are made of wood and are not at all strong. There is a project to run automobiles[54] over this road, but the bridges are not at present (June, 1903) strong enough. One automobile will probably run between Rejaf and Yei station (94 miles), and another from Yei to Dongu (62 miles), as there is no bridge over the Yei. The Yei and Dongu are 40 to 60 yards broad and very deep during the rains.

There are some parts of the road which are worse than others, and it is proposed to have small stations at which bullocks will be kept in order to pull the automobiles over them.

There are rest-house stations every two or three hours the whole way from Rejaf to Dongu and Ibembo (v. below). At each of these stations there are houses for Europeans, and at a great number of them bananas, pawpaws, fowls, eggs, &c., are now obtainable.

Vegetables, bananas, &c., are being planted at all the stations.

Each station is in charge of one or more soldiers.

Loka or Loki.Loka (called also Gumbiri).—Four days (62 miles) from Rejaf. A white officer in charge, and one or two N.C.O.’s. Surrounded by a wooden stockade. About six good brick buildings with grass roofs.

Yei.Yei.—Close to the Nile-Congo watershed. Two days (37 miles) from Gumbiri. Large fortified station, but not yet completed, situated on high ground, from which good view of the surrounding country is obtained. A far larger station than Lado. About ten white officers and a doctor. None of the Belgian Nile stations in any way compare with this one. All white men’s houses are outside the fortifications. About 12 good brick buildings with grass roofs; very healthy.

Aba.Aba.—Three days (32 miles) from Yei. Wooden stockade. Four brick houses and a large one being built for the Commandant. The latter outside stockade. One white officer and one N.C.O.

Faraji.Faraji.—Four days (38 miles) from Aba, on left bank of River Dongu. Brick wall about 6 feet high. Ditch outside; earth from ditch thrown up against the wall. Good brick buildings. Three white officers.

Dongu, &c.Dongu.—Five or six days from Faraji; at junction of Rivers Dongu and Kibali. Brick buildings.

Stations beyond Dongu, towards the Congo, on the automobile road, are:—

A road also leads from Mbima to Jabbir and Gembele.

Bofaki.Bofaki, or Wando.—Important post, and garrison. Healthy. Large rubber and coffee plantations.

Rejaf.Rejaf: on the Nile.—Small post. Bullock carts take 20 days along the sandy road from Yei; usual time 7 days by march route.

Dufile.Dufile.—Small post. There is a railway-track ready made from here to Stanleyville on the Congo; not ready for traffic yet.

At all the posts mentioned there are cattle, fowls, bananas, vegetables, &c.

Mails leave Lado for Ibembo on the 1st and 15th of every month.

From Rejaf a road is being made to New Dufile, thence to Mahaji. This road is joined at Kaji Kaji, about 60 miles S. of Rejaf, by a road from Loka.

From Yei a road runs down the Yei River to Amadi.

LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE.

[36]The position of this, described by Lieut.-Col. Colvile, is doubtful. Some Arabs state that Shebba is 8 hours’ march E. of Terfawi (?).

[37]Lieutenant Stuart-Wortley makes Selima to Lagia 140 miles; Captain Hodgson makes it 148, but left the regular track.

[38]Captain Hodgson did it (February, 1903) in under 5 days, including 42½ hours actual riding—nearly 4 miles per hour.

[39]Though Bir Sultan to J. Meidob appears to be the shortest route, the route to J. Anka is stated to be the one generally used.

[40]Conditions may have changed for the better since the delimitation of the Sudan-Eritrea frontier.

[41]For continuation of this route to Sofi on Atbara, vide [Route 13.]

[42]For more recent report Lake Tsana to Gallabat vide Routes [126] and [127.]

[43]About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.

[44]About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.

[45]About 64 miles from Kodok, vide routes [47] and [48.]

[46]Cows, £5 to £7; oxen and bulls, £2 to £4; sheep and goats, 5s. to 10s. each; eggs, 8 for 1s.; fowls, 6d.; labourer, 10s. a month. (Mr. F. Spire, Collector, Gondokoro, August, 1903.)

[47]Another account places Adam Madi’s at 42 miles from Gondokoro, and some distance inland.

[48]Taken from “Précis of Information concerning the Uganda Protectorate.”—I.D.W.O.

[49]Distances by time for men travelling light; 25% to be added for Caravans.

[50]I am told by Mr. Pordage that the halting places on this road are as follows:—“(1) Assua river, 11¼ miles; (2) Rake village, 11 miles; (3) Mruli, 12 miles; (4) Lokoya, 12½ miles; (5) Tambur, 12¼ miles; (6) Kogi, 9¾ miles; (7) Nagua, 10 miles; (8) Fort Berkeley, 12 miles; (9) Ibrahim’s village, 12 miles; (10) Gondokoro, 10 miles.” (Total, 112¾ miles.)

[51]By water.

[52]Government Station.

[53]Rest house.

[54]They now (1904) run over a section of the road between Rejaf and Yei.

THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN

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