Transcriber’s Note:

Minor errors, attributable to the printer, have been corrected. Please see the transcriber’s [note] at the end of this text for details regarding the handling of any textual issues encountered during its preparation.

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THE
EAST INDIA
VADE-MECUM

OR

COMPLETE GUIDE

TO

GENTLEMEN INTENDED FOR THE

CIVIL, MILITARY, OR NAVAL SERVICE

OF THE

Hon. East India Company.

BY

CAPTAIN THOMAS WILLIAMSON

Author of ‘The Wild Sports of the East.’

IN TWO VOLUMES

VOL. I.

London:

PRINTED FOR BLACK, PARRY, and KINGSBURY,

Booksellers to the Honorable East India Company,

7,

LEADENHALL-STREET

1810.

Printed by Turner and Harwood, St. John’s Square,

London.

TO THE

HON. COURT OF DIRECTORS,

OF THE

East India Company

HONORABLE SIRS,

A work professedly undertaken with the view to promote the welfare, and to facilitate the progress, of those young gentlemen who may, from time to time, be appointed to situations under your several Presidencies, will, I flatter myself, receive from your Honorable Court that encouragement the importance of the subject solicits, and to which my own good intentions may justly offer a claim. Under your auspices, my labors cannot fail to prove of public utility, as well as to reward that zeal, and that assiduity, with which they have proceeded, under the alluring hope of meriting the approbation of your Honorable Court.

I have the honor to be,

HONORABLE SIRS,

Your most obedient Servant,

THOMAS WILLIAMSON

London, January 1, 1810.

PREFACE

In the volumes now offered to the public, it has been my zealous endeavour to supply those minutiæ and details, which have not, in any distinct manner, been heretofore tendered to its consideration. A residence of more than twenty years in Bengal, during which period I had every opportunity of visiting the several districts under that presidency, has enabled me to afford considerable insight into a variety of topics, which, whether to the statesman, the merchant, the military, or the civil character, should prove highly important, and guide, not only to a just conception of the characters of the natives, and of the European society, in India, but to the removal of that host of doubts, prejudices, and national opinions, which, if suffered to prevail, must occasion every object to be seen through a false medium.

With the view to render my labors more acceptable to my juvenile readers, whose welfare is attended to in every page, it appeared to me expedient to adopt rather a familiar, than a didactic, style; so as to lead towards the goal of instruction, in that easy manner which is generally found best suited to that intention. The same principle induced me to avoid any arrangement under abstract heads, or chapters; as well as to render the contents at large philosophically diffuse.

The mode adopted in my former publication, ‘The Wild Sports of the East’, namely, of spelling the Hindostanee words according to English pronunciation, having been highly approved, is continued on this occasion. This plan appears particularly necessary in a work intended chiefly for the use of persons proceeding to India; since nothing could be more unpleasant than a deficiency in respect to intonation; which, being once established in error, must prove extremely difficult of correction.

While studying to supply the several desiderata left unnoticed by those gentlemen who have written on subjects relating to India, I felt it incumbent on me, both from a sense of delicacy, and from the conviction that they had already passed through more able hands, to avoid whatever topics had been abstractedly considered. Therefore, such of my readers as may seek for particular information regarding the religious tenets of the several sects, the languages of the East, the literature, &c., &c., should consult those eminent authors to whom the world is so much indebted. The whole of their works may be obtained by application to Messrs. Black, Parry, and Kingsbury, of Leadenhall Street, London, from whose ample catalogue I beg leave to cull the following, as being particularly applicable to the use of students laudably intent on obtaining the most valuable sources of oriental learning.

The works of Doctor Gilchrist stand pre-eminent, and, while they do honor to himself, are highly creditable to the discrimination and liberality of the East India Company, under whom he held a Professorship. In the purchase of the few volumes necessary towards the equipment of a gentleman proceeding to India, the whole of Doctor Gilchrist’s philological publications ought to be included. Dr. Wilkin’s edition of Richardson’s Persian Dictionary is equally indispensable to writers, who may be desirous to attain a proficiency in the Persian language, by which they become eligible for officers of the highest rank: but, to cadets, who do not wish to go to the expence of two volumes, quarto, the Abridgement, by Mr. Hopkins, in one volume, royal octavo, is particularly recommended. Dr. Wilkins’s Sanskrita Grammar will also be found eminently serviceable; while his translation of the Heetopades will afford much insight into the narratory idiom of the Hindus. Richardson’s Arabic Grammar, as also Sir W. Jones’s Persian Grammar, or Gladwin’s Persian Moonshee, and his Gulistan of Sady, should not be omitted. Sir Wm. Ouseley’s Essay towards facilitating the reading of Persian Manuscripts, will prove a substantial aid. Balfour’s Forms of Herkern, in Arabic and English, should be provided; together with Rousseau’s Dictionary of Mahomedan Law Terms. Mr. Colebrooke’s Digest Of Hindu Law, is indispensable; and I strongly recommend his Treatise on the Husbandry and Internal Commerce of Bengal. Sale’s Koran will supply the fullest information regarding the fundamental principles of the Mahomedan religion; and Reynell’s Memoirs, united with his Atlas, and Map, or Arrowsmith’s Map of India, on a larger scale, will prove the best guides in acquiring the geography, together with many local matters extremely interesting to persons travelling in any part of our territory, but especially in Bengal. The Ayeen Akbekry will shew what Hindostan was under the government of Akbar; and the Asiatic Researches, and Asiatic Annual Register, will be found to display an immense variety of subjects connected with natural history, &c. The Tour made, under the auspices of Marquis Wellesley, by Doctor Francis Buchanan, through the Mysore, Canara, and Malabar Districts, may be considered one of the most valuable productions of the age; inasmuch as it details, with philosophic consideration, and, in most instances, with alchemic precision, a variety of matters relating to the climate, the soil, and those various articles of produce, as well as the mode of manufacture, which cannot fail to prove highly interesting to those either engaged in mercantile speculations, or who thirst after useful knowledge. This work is published by Messrs. Black, Parry, and Kingsbury.

With respect to those regulations published for the control, or guidance, of persons proceeding to, or residing in, India, fluctuations must at times take place. Messrs. Black, Parry, and Kingsbury, publish yearly a Directory, under the immediate authority of the Court of Directors, the latest edition of which ought to be purchased in the first instance.

Soliciting my readers’ indulgence regarding any typographical errors, which may, notwithstanding the greatest attention in correcting for the press, occasionally appear, and anxiously hoping that he may at least be amused, if not instructed, by the perusal of my pages, I consign them to the consideration of a discriminating, just, and liberal public; trusting that my motives, at least, will be rewarded by its approbation.

THOMAS WILLIAMSON.

London, January 1, 1810.

CONTENTS
OF
VOL. I.

THE
EAST INDIA
VADE-MECUM.

The consideration, that great numbers of young gentlemen proceed to India without the smallest idea of the customs, &c. peculiar to that country whither they are adventuring; and, that the want of some previous instruction has often proved of the greatest inconvenience; first induced me to assume the pen, for the purpose of submitting, to those under such circumstances, the result of a long residence in Bengal. When it is understood, that, merely owing to the absence of any experienced friend, or to the impossibility of obtaining some publication suited to guide under a case of no small difficulty, not only many a guinea, which could perhaps be ill spared, is thrown away, but many a lasting injury entailed, little apology need be offered for that earnestness with which I recommend my volumes to the attention, not only of those who are about to proceed to the East, but of such as have relatives, or friends, in that remote quarter.

The first point offering itself to notice, is, whether an appointment is to be obtained in the Company’s service, either in a civil, a military, or a naval capacity; or, whether the party is about to adventure as a merchant, or free-mariner. If the Company’s service be in question, it will be necessary to follow implicitly those regulations the Court of Directors, from whom alone any appointment can be obtained, have, from time to time, judged it expedient to promulgate for the better management of their affairs, and for obviating misconception on the part of every candidate, as well as to shield him from imposition. As these regulations are subject to much fluctuation, and as it would be burthening this work too much were they to be embodied therein, besides that it would be, to a certain degree, infringing on the rights of others, to whose assiduity the public are considerably indebted, I have excluded them altogether; confining myself to pointing out, that the ‘East India Directory,’ published annually by Messrs. Black, Parry, and Kingsbury, but edited by gentlemen holding offices at the India-House, will be found the best guide in all such matters, as it contains the code in force at the time of publication.

Formerly, a great number of persons received commissions in the army, and in the medical departments in India, from the governor-general, for which necessity was the plea; but that practice was severely censured, and has been for full twenty-six years completely exploded. The hope of obtaining an appointment in India, as a Company’s servant, should never be entertained; none being bestowed but by the Court of Directors; though, it is true, the recommendations of their government abroad, in behalf of meritorious individuals, have, in very numerous instances, been attended to.

Little argument need be used to demonstrate the superior policy, or rather the imperious necessity, of sending young men from England in such a state of improvement as may enable them to become useful immediately on their arrival at the presidencies to which they may be respectively nominated. This is effected by the institution of a college, and of a military academy, under the auspices of the Court of Directors: at the former, those intended for the civil service are duly grounded in the languages, &c. of the East; while, at the latter, young gentlemen are instructed in whatever may be essential towards their military career. By these means, the natives are induced to entertain more respect for the junior servants, than could possibly be expected while a want of every local requisite, and even of the very rudiments of professional science, were too conspicuously apparent. The ‘Directory’, already spoken of, will be found to contain whatever relates to the proper qualifications of young men aiming at employ under the Company; but I may be permitted to state, that whenever any undue influence may be exerted, by pecuniary means, to obtain any appointment, in whatever branch, expulsion and disgrace, or eventually, fine, &c. will be the result.

The opportunity which offers for the selection of civil servants duly qualified to fill offices of considerable importance, to which either large salaries, or handsome fees, &c. are attached, affords the ready means of rewarding the labors of meritorious individuals in that branch; and, with few exceptions, of enabling them, after a fair term of servitude, to return to Europe with competent fortunes. Hence, the Company have not found it necessary to stipulate for their granting any pensions to civil servants; but, whenever the pressure of infirmity, or of misfortune, has exhibited to the Court of Directors an object justly entitled to their consideration, such civil servants, and, on many occasions, their widows and children also, have experienced that attention to their distresses which might elevate them beyond the reach of adversity.

In the military branch, where a marked level prescribes the rise of every individual, beyond which, except in a few instances of staff-appointments, the utmost merit may unhappily remain unrewarded; and where, in so destructive a climate, the discharge even of ordinary duties is frequently attended with most injurious results to the constitution; it has been adjudged necessary to make some provision for those who may either be compelled to seek the re-establishment of health in their native country, under the indulgence of a furlough, or who, having passed the prime of their days in that quarter, may choose to withdraw from the effective strength of the army, passing their latter years in retirement, and making way for the more active, to supply their places in the performance of the more arduous duties.

In consideration of the important services rendered to the Company by their military and naval officers and surgeons, as also by their chaplains, the Company have established certain rates of income, under the general terms of full-pay, half-pay, and pension, for such of them as may retire from their service: those rates, together with all the regulations in force, will be found in the ‘East India Directory’, before referred to.

No British subject, not born in India, can claim the right of residing within the Company’s jurisdiction; which extends from the Cape of Good Hope, easterly, towards Cape Horn; including all the Indian Seas, and the great Peninsula of Asia, so far as the British flag is displayed, with the exception, however, of the Island of Ceylon, on which the whole establishment appertains to the Crown, though generally some of the Madras troops, or even a portion of the Bengal army, may be seen doing duty there, as auxiliaries.

Necessity has imposed very arbitrary rules on the conduct of government abroad; none but persons whose political conduct and opinions are decidedly unexceptionable being permitted to reside within the Company’s territories. Every European inhabitant is registered, and furnished with a licence, renewable at times, or subject to be cancelled by the Supreme Council. Such is the determination supported against whatever may tend, however obliquely, towards colonization, that, in Calcutta, though purchases may be made of landed property, secured by pottahs, that correspond generally with our title-deeds, yet there does not appear to be any actual claim to the soil. This does not create any diffidence on the part of the purchaser, who, provided there be no latent mortgage, &c. always holds the property as a fee-simple. This rule does not, indeed, properly extend beyond the Maharrattah Ditch, which formerly circumscribed the town on the land side, making nearly a semi-circle, whose radius might be more than a mile and a half: beyond that ancient barrier; which in old times was found a considerable protection against the incursions of the Maharrattah horse: though pottahs may perhaps exist, their validity would not bear the test of litigation. The Company, it is true, have in various instances made grants of lands, but always under such terms as precluded any claim to property in the soil, as a permanent, independent, and paramount tenure.

The free-merchant, or, (as some designate him,) the free-mariner, who may proceed to India with the view of purchasing landed property, or of becoming a renter in his own name, will find himself in a very awkward, or even a very hazardous, situation, should he lay out his money in supposed purchases, or in buildings, et cetera, beyond the ascertained limits of the town of Calcutta. My readers will therefore correct, in due time, any erroneous impressions arising from misrepresentation, or from misconception: they must, in fact, alienate their British opinions, and conform to local considerations; divesting themselves of every prepossession, and viewing our Indian possessions, not as colonies, but as conquests, of a peculiar description, to which our laws and privileges are every way either unsuitable, or unwelcome.

I shall now proceed to the display of some minutiæ regarding the out-fit of a gentleman about to embark in a chartered ship; observing, that no passenger can be received on board without an express order in writing, directed to the captain, and signed by the secretary. Should an impostor succeed, of which, I believe, no instance has ever come to light, in obtaining a passage to India, by means of fictitious documents, he would indisputably be detected on arrival there, and be subjected to all the rigors of the law. The several commanders of the Company’s ships are so bound by agreement, as well as by regulations, not to receive unauthorized passengers, as to leave no opening for malpractices of the above description.

The out-fit of a military passenger will necessarily differ, in a few points, from that of a person proceeding in a civil capacity: whichever may be the case, it will be found least expensive to lay in the whole of the supplies of clothing, so far as may be practicable, from the stock on hand; obtaining any additional articles from those tradesmen by whom the family may have been usually furnished. I cannot too forcibly deprecate the common practice of burthening young folks with a variety of useless apparel, &c.; the greater part of which becomes the perquisite of servants, or, being found rather a burthen than a convenience, is generally thrown about in the most negligent manner. The grand object should be to provide what may be efficient after arrival in India.

The first point for consideration is the quantity and the quality of the shirts, of which not less than four dozen should be provided. They ought to be of very fine, stout calico, such as may be used in a hot climate, where linen is particularly prejudicial to health, owing to its feeling cold when moist with perspiration. About a dozen of the shirts may be of rather a superior quality, and have frills.

Under-shirts, made of chequered calico, of a moderate fineness, will be found extremely pleasant, and preserve the upper-shirts from being soiled by contact with the body: of such, an equal number should be made; if with sleeves, and reaching to the hips, they will serve for sleeping in: there should be no ties, nor any opening, except for about eight inches down, on one side, from the neck, but not in front; a button will suffice to keep the parts together, after the head has been passed through.

For wear on board-ship, nothing can equal pantaloons, of which two pairs of thick, and two of thin, should be provided; together with as many pairs of wove cotton long-drawers, to wear under them. The thick kinds may be milled broad cloth, or wove worsted; the thin ones of light corderoy, aleppine, &c. Half-stockings of worsted, and of cotton, will be requisite; a dozen pairs of the former, and three dozen of the latter: they will all be found useful in India. Two or three black velvet stocks, made to tie with ribbon, will be serviceable; and, as articles in great request abroad, about four dozen of neck-handkerchiefs, of very fine linen, not calico, should be made up: an equal quantity of a coarser kind may be laid in for under wear.

Cotton handkerchiefs, of a small size, such as may be put into a waistcoat pocket, will be found preferable: of these, full four dozen; they should be white, with very neat, narrow borders. Two good warm waistcoats of woollen must be provided, and about two dozen of white waistcoats, made of fine Irish linen. Breeches in the same proportion, and of the same qualities. To wear with the latter, two dozen pairs of long cotton stockings, and half a dozen pairs of short, wove, cotton drawers, should be provided. The stockings ought to be of the best quality. A dozen pairs of silk stockings will also be useful on arrival in India, where they are extremely scarce, generally damaged, and bear an enormous price.

A substantial great-coat will, on many occasions, be acceptable during the voyage; as will two pairs of boots, and as many of shoes; one stout, the other light, for ship wear.

I cannot too forcibly recommend that measures be left with the tailor, the shoe and boot-maker, the hatter, &c. in order that regular supplies may be sent yearly, or half-yearly, through the medium of some friend in London; who could get all articles of such a description shipped in the privileges of some of the officers of the Indiamen; the freight payable on delivery at Calcutta, Madras, or Bombay, respectively.

It will be proper to have two or three coats to wear on board-ship: two should be of broad cloth, and one of camlet, or some other light stuff: a warm dressing gown of flannel, with two lighter, of printed linen, will be essentially serviceable.

Hats are so very subject to be injured on board-ship, and, indeed, to be blown overboard, that I should recommend but little attention to appearance in that article. In this, as well as in most of the foregoing, a large portion may be supplied from the stock in use previous to embarkation. The old saying, of ‘going to sea to wear out one’s old clothes,’ has so far sense on its side, that whatever can be decently worn will be found full good enough for that purpose. Persons who are growing, should observe the precaution of having every article of apparel made full large; else, by the time they may have been some months at sea, they will be put to serious inconvenience. It is true, that few ships sail without a tailor on board, but he is not always to be had; being generally employed by the purser; or he may be in the sick list, &c.

With respect to leather-breeches, two pairs may be taken by those accustomed to hard riding; though nankeen are in general use for the greater part of the year. In the cold season, the former are extremely comfortable. Three, or even four, pairs of boots, as many of shoes, and two round hats, of the best quality; together with two best coats, of the lightest cloth, or kerseymere, two waistcoats, and two pair of breeches, of fine white kerseymere, should be packed, with the intention of being reserved for use in India.

It may be said, that tailors, shoe-makers, &c. abound in India; and, that every article above-mentioned may be made up, or be obtained there. The truth is, that all artizans in that quarter expect exorbitant profits, to enable their amassing sums wherewith to return to Europe. The materials are likewise much dearer; and many, if not all, of a very inferior quality. Articles of European manufacture, except when the market is absolutely glutted, bear full £80. and occasionally £200. per cent. advance on the prime cost: add to this, that sometimes gentlemen are so far removed from their trades-people, who are by no means expeditious in their work, and, if at all expert, have ever more on hand than they can execute, as to render it next to impracticable for them to be supplied as they would wish.

With respect to woollens, boots, shoes, &c. Europe is the great source; no cloths being manufactured in India, except a kind somewhat resembling serge; and the leather in general use among the native cordwainers being so ill tanned, that, after being once wet through, which is effected by the slightest exposure to moisture, it stretches, losing its shape and pliancy, so as to be both uncomfortable and unsightly. The native shoe-makers are certainly very neat in their work, but, owing to the badness of their materials, cannot, in this case, be recommended.

Blankets of a good quality are scarce, and bear an unconscionable price. I should recommend to every passenger, that he take three of the largest double milled, and one smaller under blanket. He will find them useful on board-ship; and, in the cold season, will not be displeased to find such in his possession. Their value in the hottest time of the year, when the wind is dry, and clouds of dust every where passing, is extreme. If a bed be covered with two or three blankets, at that season, it will always remain cool and pleasant.

It may be supposed that calico sheets are not adapted to the torrid zone; and such is strictly the case. Accordingly, we find the greater portion of Europeans provided with hemp sheeting: many go to the expence of coarse Irish linen for that purpose, and make their pillow cases of fine Holland, or of a fabric, called grass-cloth, imported from China, and said to be made from the smaller fibres of what is usually called India-gut, or weed. Whatever the material may be, its smooth, glossy surface, and its disposition to resist absorption, more than any other cloth in use, qualify it pre-eminently for that purpose to which we apply it.

I should recommend that twelve sheets were taken; each formed of one breadth of very fine Russia, or other hempen cloth, and full eleven feet in length. During the passage, they may be used in that form; which, if they are full ell-wide, will be found broad enough. On arrival in India they should be joined two and two, so as to form three, instead of six pairs. In regard to pillow cases, one for every pair of sheets in their original state, will suffice: they should be of Irish linen.

A good mattress made of horse-hair, is, in the East, a valuable article. I should recommend one made to fit the cot, or bed-place, on board-ship; which will generally be from 6 ft. to 6 ft. 2 in. in length, and from 22 to 28 in. in width. This mattress should be filled to the thickness of near five inches, and enclosed in a double case of the strongest ticking: by this means, on arrival, the mattress may be extended to double its size, with the choicest materials; the hair being spread thinner, and the ticking reduced from double to single.

A pillow filled with feathers is scarcely to be seen in India! I would, however, recommend, that, in lieu of a bolster, a pillow stuffed with horsehair should be taken, with one feather pillow. On board-ship, the former would be found acceptable in hot weather, while the latter may be resorted to in stormy latitudes. Their alternate application, as uppermost, would prove refreshing and comfortable, at least, if not conducive to salubrity.

Table cloths can be had better, and cheaper, in India than in Europe; as can towels, or napkins, also: it will, however, be necessary to take about three or four dozen of rather large towels, of a thick strong texture. Combs of sorts, tooth, nail, clothes, and shoe brushes, with their respective et ceteras, should not be forgotten. Soap, for washing hands and for shaving, must be taken; and if about twenty or thirty pounds of the patent soap, which will wash with salt water, be laid in, it may be useful in case a few articles should, from necessity, be washed on board, and will, at all events, be an invaluable present to any persons who may do little jobs, such as making the bed, cleaning boots, &c.: to all such, soap and pig-tail tobacco are more acceptable than either money or liquor.—Cut tobacco is not considered so valuable; smoking being next to prohibited in every ship.

A wash-hand bason, ewer, and chamber utensil, will be required: these, at least the first and last, should be of pewter: the ewer should be in the form of a bottle, both on account of the convenience it offers in handling it, and because water is less liable to be spilled from its mouth; a common quart bottle is no bad substitute. About a pound of good tea, and five or six pounds of double-refined sugar, may be provided: in case of indisposition they may be resorted to, without troubling the captain’s servants beyond the requisition of some hot water.

Persons fond of shooting, would do well to take with them one or more good double-barrelled guns, with spare locks, a good supply of flints, and all the necessary implements for cleaning, &c. in a very solid wainscot case, firmly clamped with brass at the corners, lid, and bottom. Shot is to be had in Calcutta, as is gun-powder, of the first quality. A good pointer dog will be found highly valuable; preferable to a bitch, which rarely lives in that climate after her first, or, at most, her second litter; besides, it is common for the captain and officers to expect whatever pups are born on board: on the other hand, a male pointer, of established breed and reputation, must be eagerly sought by all sportsmen, who will cheerfully give a portion of its progeny to the owner.

With respect to military persons, whose apparel and accoutrements cannot be ascertained previous to quitting England, they should confine their attention to laying in those materials which cannot fail of becoming useful on their arrival: thus, an officer of infantry ought to purchase a few yards of the best super-superfine scarlet broad cloth, or kerseymere, for making up his regimentals; an officer of artillery or of engineers, blue, &c. The whole establishment not being exactly uniform in particular points, such as the colors of the facings, the patterns of the swords, &c. nothing can be done, with propriety, in those instances: this, however, is the less important, because every cadet is, on arriving in the country, sent to join a corps composed of gentlemen under similar circumstances, about sixteen miles from Calcutta, in which he must serve for two years, or until judged qualified to do duty with the regiment to which he may stand appointed as an ensign.

Every thing in the cutlery line should be taken from England; the most essential are as follow. Two good razors, in a case, with a small strop, a small looking glass, two or three pairs of scissors, of sorts; two or three good penknives, a riding knife, with fleam and picker, a pair of good carvers, a dozen of table knives and forks, ditto of dessert, all plain bone or ivory handles; a pocket case of apparatus for scaling the teeth; mathematical instruments may be included under this article, as may black-lead pencils of the first quality, with colors, hair pencils, and drawing and writing papers; all of which are extremely dear in India, and, according to the usual modes of shipping, rarely arrive in good condition.

A good gold watch, with light chain and seals, together with some spare glasses fitted, will be indispensable. A small telescope, that may be easily carried in the pocket, will prove amusing on many occasions, and, to a military man, must ever be ranked among absolute necessaries. In regard to plate, very little is wanted for a single gentleman. Six table spoons, twelve tea spoons, a soup spoon, a marrow spoon, and four salt spoons, will be found as much as usually can be required; as will be better understood when I come to describe the manner of living among Europeans.

The very limited space allowed for the baggage of each passenger, renders it indispensably necessary that every article should be packed close. Many consider a large sea-chest to be useful; but, in my opinion, it is the worst receptacle that could be devised; especially as it becomes useless on arrival in India. I should strongly recommend four boxes, well covered with leather, and clamped with brass, measuring about 26 or 28 inches in length, 18 in breadth, and 18 in depth. Each should have within a lifter, so that half its contents may be taken out at pleasure, the lower tier remaining undisturbed. The contents of each part to be noted on a piece of stiff paper, which should be pasted within the lid: a copy to be written in a memorandum book, so that the contents of the several boxes (which should be numbered and lettered with the proprietor’s initials, thus, A.B.
—
1 A.B.
—
2 A.B.
—
3 A.B.
—
4) may be known without opening them. Only one of these need ever be in use at a time; the rest being sent down into the after-hold; which usually is opened once or twice weekly, on stated days, for the convenience of those who may wish to have access to their packages.

I have derived very considerable convenience from sorting all my linen into sets: for instance, a shirt, an undershirt, (commonly called a banian,) a pair of stockings, two neck handkerchiefs, and a pocket ditto: these I rolled up as tight as could be effected by manual force, and surrounded with a towel, which, being pinned, kept all fast and clean. In this form my linen could be packed in a very small space. Foul linen should always be put up in the same manner. One box, containing articles in reserve, should be exempted from such as might be occasionally wanted: it should be allotted to hats, silk stockings, best coats, linen, waistcoats, &c. Each will occupy about five cubic feet; therefore, the whole may be comprised in half a ton measurement.

I should observe, that blankets, &c. not in use, may be put under the mattress; and, that, if a standing bed-place is in question, about four yards of coarse woollen, such as serge, perpet, shalloon, or baize, may be taken on board, wherewith to make a set of curtains; which, in some situations, such as the steerage, will be found not only comfortable, but absolutely necessary. Those who have been on board any coasting vessel, fitted up for the accommodation of passengers, will instantly accord with this piece of advice, and comprehend how desirable it is that every box, &c. beyond that in immediate use, should be consigned to the after-hold. If more than four trunks should be deemed necessary, they may generally be had ready made at most of the manufacturers. The size described ought not to be exceeded, on account of the facility with which such may be suspended in slings made of canvas, and be carried on bullocks, one trunk on each side. Too much cannot be said on this point; since the degree of compactness an officer is able to attain, will generally determine the quantity he may be able to carry, and insure its early, as well as its safe, arrival.

Those who are not in the Company’s service, are left to make the best bargain they can with the commanders of the Indiamen, and to select such ships for their conveyance as may best suit their views in regard to destination and time of sailing. The Company, some years ago, issued their orders, that only certain stated sums were to be taken by the commanders of ships in their employ, according to the rank of passengers respectively.—A reference to the Directory will shew what were prescribed, any trespass on which was declared tantamount to an ipso facto dismissal from the service. The regulations formerly included only as far as majors, under the supposition that all above that rank would indulge in the hire of cabins; for which they must, of course, pay extra. The specified sums were what the Company paid on all occasions where the passage-money was receivable from their own treasury.

However just and benevolent the intention of the Company evidently was; since it served to protect their servants from impositions which had, on many occasions, been ruinous to individuals in low circumstances, and, in some instances, caused them to apply to the Court of Directors for loans, to enable their returning to India; still, it cannot be denied, that the stipulated rates are by no means adequate compensation for the very heavy expence a commander incurs, when laying in stock for a voyage generally estimated at six months duration. Whatever may be paid by individuals of the several classes respectively, each invariably expects to be received with the same cordiality, and to partake, without distinction, of whatever the stores may afford.

It needs no argument to prove, that a ship containing a great number of cadets, under the limited rates, would by no means be a gaining concern to the commander. Hence, the outward voyage is not the object of a commander, who, even under the most favorable circumstances, could not make any great profit by his passengers; but, by his liberal treatment of them, he obtains that character which insures him a choice of rich persons returning to Europe, who, in the aggregate, rarely fail to make up to him for his former trouble, and deficiency of pecuniary benefit.

It is usual to enquire among the commanders as to their probable number of passengers, and to ascertain the dates at which their ships are, according to the arrangements made at the India House, to be despatched. The pursers are commonly employed to adjust the rates of passage, and to dispose of such cabins as may be intended for the accommodation of passengers. Matters being settled, it is necessary to apply to the secretary for an order to be received on board the vessel in question; which order is delivered to the commander, or to his purser, so soon as obtained. The secretary likewise furnishes every Company’s servant with a certificate of his appointment; and to each free-mariner, &c. he gives a licence to proceed to India. These papers must be carefully preserved, for delivery into the office of the secretary under that presidency to which the party may be destined. It is always best to consign them to the keeping of the purser. In cases of certificates having been lost, much difficulty has arisen, and all the parties have been obliged to depose to that effect on oath.

I should advise those who are about to embark, to cultivate an acquaintance with the respective commanders. Experience fully establishes, that civility rarely fails to produce good consequences. It is reasonable to conclude, that some previous acquaintance must engender some good will. The captains navigating under the auspices of the India Company, are men who have seen much of the world, and who rarely fail justly to appreciate those marks of attention, and respect, which flow voluntarily from persons with whom they have dealings. On the other hand, it must be rather uncomfortable to go on board a ship where all are total strangers; or, at the best, where, perhaps, the purser alone, and that with some hesitation and difficulty, acknowledges ever to have seen your face! Common sense points out that such is both impolitic, and uncomfortable.

Having made a voyage in a foreign ship from Bengal to the Cape, it may be serviceable to some of my readers to receive a hint or two regarding the usage he is likely to experience, should he entertain a disposition to avail himself of that channel of conveyance. The detail need not be prolix; for it may justly be asserted, in few words, that foreign vessels are rarely sea-worthy; they are badly equipped, and worse manned; their decks are low; their accommodations dark, dismal, and offensive; their water execrable; their provisions scarce and bad; their commanders ignorant, avaricious, mean, proud, tyrannical, and deceitful! That some exceptions may exist, cannot be denied; but I never heard of one who did not, more or less, merit the above stigma.

Look to the Company’s ships, and see the reverse! The truth is, that in them we find most of those good points that are established in the Royal navy, added to much desire in their commanders to be on a friendly footing with the passengers; while, I believe, there is no doubt that, in the end, their terms are more moderate than those of any foreigners.

If the circumstances of a passenger should enable him to hire a cabin, his comfort will be increased inconceivably, even though he should have barely room enough to swing a cot, or to put up a standing bed. But, that he may not deceive himself in respect to the accommodation he is to derive from such a retirement, it would be proper for him to pay a visit to the vessel while lying in the river, probably at Gravesend, or the Hope, and there to ascertain the exact dimensions he is to occupy. It is an object, if he uses a swinging cot, that the breadth of the cabin should be such as to allow of its being triced up between the beams during the daytime; thereby to have it out of the way, and to give more space in the cabin. When suspended, it should be lengthwise; so that, as the ship rolls, or lays down on either side, the cot should swing even. When hung athwart-ships, unless the cabin be very broad, it would be perpetually knocking against the bulk-head (or partition), and the ship’s side. Hence it is advisable, wherever the space may admit, to make a standing bed-place fore and aft, furnishing it with rails, to keep the occupant from rolling out; for, if it be made athwart-ships, and the vessel be working against an adverse wind, he must, whenever the ship goes about, change the position of his pillow, from head to foot alternately.

In peaceable times, cabins are ordinarily constructed of wooden partitions, and have a door, with lock, &c. very complete; but, during war time, it is usual to make them of canvass, fixed to the beams above, and rolling up thereto, whenever the vessel may be cleared for action. Some cabins include a port-hole, which, in large ships, is peculiarly comfortable; especially under the Line, when a current of air is invaluable; but, in bad weather, when the port is shut, those cabins that have only skuttles, about one-fourth the size of a port-hole, become preferable; especially when they are provided with glass shutters; which can be at any time made by the ship’s carpenter, if not previously attached. The skuttles being higher up in the side of the vessel, and nearer to the deck above the cabin, are well calculated for allowing rarefied air, which would float above the level of a port-hole, to escape. They are usually placed at intervals between the ports. When a cabin is built so as to include a port, the gun appertaining thereto is commonly sent forward, and lashed up to the ship’s side, the muzzle pointing forward; but, on emergency, the cabin is knocked down, and the gun is run into its place. Hence, each kind of cabin has its advantages, and disadvantages.

The right side of the ship, from stem to stern is called the starboard; the left side is called the larboard: the line on which the mast stands, i.e. straight over the keel, divides them. The starboard, in most modes of applying the term, implies superiority over the larboard. Thus the chief mate has his cabin, which is usually 12 or 14 feet long, by 10 or 12 in breadth, next to the great cabin, on the starboard side of the gun-deck. The second mate has one rather smaller, on the opposite, or larboard side. Then, again, the third mate on the starboard side, immediately before the chief mate’s; next before him the fourth mate; while the surgeon and purser usually have their cabins on the larboard side, next before the second mate’s.

What is called the ‘great-cabin,’ is a slip taken off across the stern of a ship, on the gun-deck, about 14 feet deep, leaving a passage on the larboard side that the passengers and officers may have access to the quarter-gallery, or privy, on that quarter. The great-cabin includes all the stern windows, therefore, is extremely light and airy; but, on the other hand, its situation is rather disadvantageous to those who are troubled with habitual sea-sickness. The bows and the stern partake, in an accumulated ratio, of the ship’s motion, as she pitches; that is, as she rises and sinks, alternately, at the head and stern; consequently, the centre of every vessel is the part least subject to agitation.

The captain occupies, in general, a cabin called the ‘state-room,’ situated under the fore part of the poop, on the starboard side, with a glass door towards the quarter-deck: its dimensions, as well of those of all the cabins already described, vary according to the ship’s tonnage, but may be taken at about 15 or 16 feet square: the space including it, and the larboard side under the same parallel, is called the ‘cuddy;’ while all behind is designated the ‘round-house;’ and has a row of glass windows in the stern part, with two doors opening into the ‘stern-gallery:’ a flight of steps, rather confined to be sure, serves as a communication, by means of the starboard quarter-gallery, with the great-cabin. These steps, under which is a privy, are particularly convenient to ladies, who usually have the starboard side of the great-cabin allotted to their accommodation. When the passengers are very numerous, especially when many families are on board, the round-house is partitioned off into three or more cabins; the larboard quarter-gallery, on the upper deck, having also a privy. In such case, the dinner table is laid in the cuddy, instead of the round-house; but, as it is rarely spacious enough to allow the whole to sit down at the same time, the company are, commonly, divided into two parties, succeeding each other every day alternately.

The sums paid for cabins entirely depend upon the demand, their size, the ship’s destination, and the circumstances of the person selling his accommodations. The several portions of the round-house and great-cabin, both of which are considered the captain’s property, of course are paid for in proportion to their respective dimensions: it may, however, be taken as some guide, that, outward bound, a slip, including one window, may produce from £200. to £300.; and that the several mates’ cabins may be averaged at from £3. to £5. for every square foot of the enclosed area. Homeward bound, on account of the number of children and servants shipped with a family, the rates are yet higher: I have known, more than once, the whole of a great cabin let for £2,500.!

There being an essential difference in the comfort afforded by having either a cot or a fixed bed-place, it may be acceptable to my readers to be informed of some minutiæ attached to those conveniences respectively. A cot is an oblong case of canvas, having a deal frame at the bottom, with a canvas sacking well strained; the ends are furnished with small cords, called nettles, which pass round an iron thimble, or grummet; and those again are passed over two strong hooks, placed about seven feet asunder, fore and aft, whereby the cot is suspended. During the day time, a cot is commonly taken down, and disposed of in some part where it may, so far as the means allow, be out of the way: the best mode is to trice it up between the beams that support the superior deck. In this kind of bed, the motion of the ship is scarcely felt, unless she is acted upon by a very short, broken sea; the cot always preserving its level: hence, those who are much troubled with sea-sickness should always provide a swinging cot; taking care to hang it in such a place as may preclude the danger of its being bumped against the ship’s sides, or the bulk-head, (i.e. a boarded partition,) than which nothing can be more unpleasant. I have several times been canted completely out of my cot, owing to the want of space at its sides. In very bad weather, when the ship has rolled many streaks of her deck under water, the frame of my cot has been forcibly dashed against the beams: at such times, if the width of the space admits, it is proper to lengthen the nettles to their utmost: whereby such inconvenience may generally be obviated.

A standing bed-place is so far convenient, that the necessity for removing in the morning, and affixing at night, is done away; whereby the bed-furniture is greatly preserved from filth and injury: besides, its occupant can ‘turn in’ whenever he pleases, and has the satisfaction of knowing that his trunk is, by being under him, secured from damage, as well as from depredation; whereas persons who sleep in cots often experience considerable inconvenience in those particulars. Those who have fixed bed-places in the larboard division of the great-cabin, are by far more privately, and more comfortably, situated than such as have them in the steerage, ranging along the bulk-head of the chief mate’s cabin: in either case, there are always two tiers, or ranges, of bed-places, one above the other; the lower are certainly most convenient.

As priority of embarkation, or at least of adjustment, gives a right to selection, it is advisable to visit the ship so soon as an order for being taken on board is obtained; when a choice should be made as to the situation of a bed-place; those of the lower tier, nearest the stern windows in the great cabin, are to be preferred, they being both more airy, and more light: the latter will be found an object to those who are studious, or partial to reading in bed, which, on board-ship, is held to be a most delectable recreation.

In adjusting with the captain, or his purser, it is proper to be very exact in stipulating for a berth in the great-cabin; and it would be as well to notice the conveniences to be afforded, in the body of the receipt given for the passage-money. Not that I would lead to the supposition of deceptions being practised intentionally; but, in the hurry of business of considerable importance, such lesser items will occasionally slip the memory, giving birth to disagreements which not only are attended with future distrust, but may, perhaps, be beyond the possibility of remedy. It should, however, be considered that a bed-place in the great-cabin, which generally is fitted up for eight, or, at the utmost, for twelve, will be charged somewhat higher than one in the steerage; the latter being an open passage, totally devoid of privacy, exposed to violent currents of air, not always of the sweetest, and subject to many obvious inconveniences.

Among the ship’s company, two or three men, or boys, are usually excused the general duty of the ship, for the purpose of attending the passengers: when other matters are settling on board, care should be taken to engage one of these attendants to do all the work in the cabin, if one is hired; namely, to clean boots and shoes, brush clothes, clean the basons, provide hot and cold water, attend to the boxes in the hold; with a variety of et ceteras which will soon obtrude into notice. For such good offices, about three or four guineas will be expected; but it must not be supposed that, for such a compensation, a man will devote his whole time to one passenger; nor, indeed, is it necessary that he should, since an active, intelligent fellow, who has been used to such menial offices, may, with great ease, give satisfaction to at least four or five. When such an aid cannot be obtained, on account of the scarcity of hands on board, a douceur to any of the mates’ servants will answer every purpose, besides probably giving the advantage of being served by one perfectly conversant with ship affairs, and possessing some influence with the captain’s steward; with whom I humbly recommend to all passengers that they keep on good terms; he being no small man in his way, and having the power to afford many conveniences, which, though in the estimation of folks on shore apparently insignificant, are, nevertheless, of considerable value to those unaccustomed to a sea-life, and cooped up for months within such narrow limits!

This reflection leads me naturally to the consideration of that line of conduct which should, on all occasions, be maintained by those who wish to pass their time as agreeably as circumstances will admit, and to appear respectable. In the first place, the captain will exact from every one on board, of whatever class, a perfect attention to the regulations of his ship: were he to allow any deviation, the whole would be aiming at the same indulgence, and subordination would be annihilated! It is customary, whenever a person ascends from the gun-deck to the quarter-deck, or goes upon it from the cuddy, &c. to touch his hat; even though no one should appear there: a breach of this rule would be considered grossly insulting, and might induce to rebuke, by no means pleasant to the feelings, or adding to the credit, of a gentleman. When it is considered with what a high hand the officers of ships are obliged to uphold their authority, over a numerous crew composed of all nations, and often including the most hardened and daring culprits, we cannot but applaud every practice tending to preserve order, regularity, and decorum.

The hour for breakfast may be generally stated to be eight, for dinner two, for tea six, and for supper nine. The first is announced by the great bell on the fore-castle, which always rings a sonorous peal when the watch, or guard, is to be relieved: tea-time is known by the same signal. As the dinner hour does not correspond with the relief of the watch, it is usual to warn the passengers and officers by beat of drum: the tune of ‘Roast-beef’ being daily heard, though it rarely leads to a participation of that viand whence its designation is derived. Very little notice is required to call together those who are disposed to partake of supper: for the most part, the company amuse themselves with cards, music, &c. during the evenings; or, when the weather admits, walk the quarter-deck; observing to keep on the windward side; which is held to be the privilege only of the captain, the three senior mates, the purser, the surgeon, and those passengers who board at the captain’s table.

Although nothing very sumptuous is to be expected on board-ship, yet there will be little or no cause to complain of deficiency. The breakfast ordinarily consists of good tea and coffee, with excellent biscuit, and, at times, rolls; which, as well as every species of leavened bread, come under the marine designation of ‘soft-tommy.’ The butter, to be sure, is not to be boasted of; it being utterly impossible to prevent its melting, so as to resemble liquid honey.

It being studied to take on board as much fresh meat as possible, at the time of sailing, some joints of good beef and mutton may be served up for the first week; after which the ‘corned’ (or slightly salted) meat comes into use. The ample supply of poultry, of all descriptions, fed in coops on the poop, and a small flock of sheep, perhaps from twenty-five to forty in number, maintained there on hay, &c. enable the captain, for the most part, to exhibit fresh meat, of some sort, every day; which added to abundance of prime beef and pork for his use, together with tongues, pickles, sauces of all kinds, potatoes, rice, pastry, olives, &c. &c. form a tout ensemble, where even the most dainty may find something acceptable to the palate.

It cannot be supposed, that wine is so freely dispensed, as when on shore; the ladies, however, are generally supplied with as much as they may require during the repast; after the cloth is removed, the bottle is put round two or three times, according to the liberality of the commander. The last tour it makes being accompanied with ‘good afternoon’ serves as a hint for the gentlemen to withdraw, until the hour for tea; when, as already observed, they frequently amuse themselves until supper is ready.

This last meal is little more than a matter of form; it consists chiefly of cheese and biscuits, rasped beef, sago-soup, lobs kous, which is a curious medley of various ingredients, forming something midway between water-gruel and peas-soup. One tour of the bottle, attended with ‘good night,’ closes the operations of the day.

The water taken on board being strongly impregnated with filth, of various kinds and colors, soon becomes so nauseous as to be utterly unfit for the use of delicate persons: the quantity of animalculæ it contains could not be credited by a person who had not seen it! On this account, several filtering-stones are used, through which the water finds a passage, leaving the impurities behind. This percolation is, however, extremely tedious, and does not entirely remove the taint; though it assuredly so far sweetens it as to render the water very drinkable. The fecula left in the hollow of the drip-stone, are perfectly putrid.

The ordinary beverage is table beer, or perhaps porter: in warm weather excellent spruce beer abounds; sometimes, indeed, the whole crew are supplied with from one to two quarts daily. Nor is the punch-bowl suspended for empty shew! By means of prepared lemon-juice, aided by a good stock of the fresh fruit, carefully suspended in nets in the stern-gallery, &c. good punch, lemonade, and negus, are often served to the company.

I strongly recommend, that all young persons should be embarked at Gravesend, or the Nore; in preference to being taken on Board at Portsmouth; by that means they become settled before the generality of passengers arrive, and escape that indescribable confusion attendant upon the sudden influx of whole hoys full of dead and live lumber! For such they appear when interrupting the several operations attendant upon a vessel’s getting under weigh. Those who purpose delaying to the last moment, should leave their cards of address with the purser, taking care not to be far from home, that he may, when proceeding to the India-House to receive the packets, send notice of his being about to quit town. On receipt of such notice, no time must be lost in repairing to that port where the vessel may be; in being customary to sail so soon as the purser gets on board. Half an hour’s delay has proved the loss of many a passage.

The great number of ships employed in the India trade, occasions so frequent an intercourse, that scarcely two months ever elapse without one or more being despatched to some part of India. Unless under very peculiar and pressing circumstances, it is inadvisable to proceed in any not bound to that part whither the passenger is destined: for, although it appears, on paper, very easy to get from Madras, for instance, to Bengal, such will not always be practicable; and so great a delay may elapse as should allow a vessel bound to Bengal, sailing perhaps a month or two subsequent to that proceeding to Madras, to arrive at her port before the means might offer of getting on from Madras. Add to this, that freight and passage-money are infinitely higher in India than in Europe; which, combined with the heavy expence attendant upon long detention on shore, would prove the economy, as well as the speed, to be on the other side of the question.

The time of sailing will, under common circumstances, decide the time of arrival. Ships leaving England, that is, the Land’s End, in all April, may be expected to arrive at Madras in all September; when, if not delayed, they may run up the Bay in a week more, with great ease. As the northerly monsoon often begins to prevail in October, occasioning ships to stretch over towards Acheen-head, whereby from four to six weeks will be lost in getting to Balasore Roads, it is rather advisable not to sail later than March, if at liberty to choose the season. By so doing, the arrival will take place at a time when the great heats are over, and the cold weather is approaching: two points not only eligible as they relate to health, but to society also. The early, or late, arrivals of such writers and cadets, as are appointed for the same year, make no difference whatever in the rank they are relatively to bear; that being determined by a general list transmitted by the Directors, generally in the last ship of that season. The pay, however, is calculated from the date of presenting the certificate, before spoken of, at the proper office.

The period of sailing will generally indicate the weather which may be expected during the whole passage. Such as leave the pilot in the spring will round the Cape of Good Hope about Whitsuntide or Midsummer, when winter prevails in that Quarter; it being in 34° south latitude: advancing to the northward, they will meet with the trade-winds from the tropic towards the Line, where, in all probability, light and variable winds may cause some delay. Ships leaving England in our autumn, round the Cape at their Midsummer, and reach Madras generally in from eighteen to twenty weeks; carrying fair, but warm, weather all the way. If they arrive about the middle, or latter end of March, they may, by remaining for a few days, until the southerly monsoon is fairly established, sometimes reach the sand-heads in Balasore Roads in three or four days. This is obviously preferable to running over to the eastward.

I know nothing more unpleasant than being wind-bound! Nor, indeed, can there be well conceived a more certain recipe for draining the purse! The passenger must not suppose that, after having repaired to that port where the ship rides, he is at liberty to go on board instantly, and to remain until she sails. On the contrary, though he should not fail to intimate his arrival, and to leave his card of address, he must put up at some inn, or lodging-house, at his own expence, until the signal may be made for sailing, by firing a gun, and loosening the fore top-sail, by that ship under whose convoy a fleet is to sail; or, if there be no convoy, by the senior captain; who is, by courtesy, designated ‘Commodore.’

The Court of Directors have, latterly, in consideration of the inability of their junior servants to pay the heavy charges to which they are subject while in port, given an extra sum to the commanders of their ships for each cadet’s diet in such situations. This was no less necessary than considerate. It will have been seen, that persons going out in the civil service have fewer stipulations in their favor; for which the presumptive reason is, that they are commonly the sons of gentlemen possessing large property: the sum of £3000. having been so often given for writer-ships, seems to indicate that very little occasion could exist for interference in their behalf.

When a ship arrives at any regular port, where accommodations can be had, the passengers are, in like manner, expected to reside on shore, at their own charge. Such, to many, may appear unreasonable, or strange; but, when it is considered to what heavy losses a commander might else be subject, which, divided among a number, would appear trifling, and, at all events, not prove ruinous, the propriety of such a rule will not be disputed. This explanation may serve as a hint to parents, and guardians, not to ship young folks in forma pauperis, under the prudent, but here inapplicable, precaution, of taking away the means of being extravagant. Emergencies often arise, wherein a few guineas are indispensably necessary; and, as few go to sea with more cash than ordinary expences may demand, it is not easy to remedy the error.

Where a young man has established his character for imprudence, the only recourse is to place a few guineas, say from twenty to thirty, in the hands of the captain, or the purser, with directions to supply what may be absolutely required, rather in form of a loan; keeping the youth in ignorance of his having a banker on board, and giving him, at taking leave, perhaps five or six guineas, in order to carry on the deception.

When it is known that no shop of any kind exists in a ship, (excepting the purser’s slop-shop,) we must conclude there can be little opportunity for extravagance: the principal danger is to be apprehended from gaming, which in some ships reaches to a dreadful extent; always creating difficulty, and rarely terminating without bloodshed. This, added to emulation for the favorable opinion of the ladies, may be considered the usual causes of discord. The latter is, in a great measure, restrained by that custom which fixes every passenger to the same seat at table during the whole voyage; whereby daily contests for vicinity are avoided.

The number of accidents that have happened from trivial causes, renders it necessary to be extremely cautious in regard to smoking; which in all men of war, and India-ships, is permitted only on the fore-castle. By this means danger is avoided, and the stench carried away. It is to be lamented that so proper a regulation is not observed throughout the merchant service; in which so much carelessness prevails, that it appears to me miraculous so many vessels arrive in safety. On my return from India, I embarked at St. Helena on board a whaler, of which the captain had a strong predilection for his pipe, which was scarcely ever out of his mouth. His practice was, to smoke in the cabin where we dined, throwing his hot ashes down upon the deck, in which was a skuttle, or small hatchway, under his own seat. Two lieutenants of the navy, who were fellow-passengers, used to remonstrate very freely, but without the smallest effect, against so improper a practice.

It happened, one morning, as we were off the Azores, that a suspicious-looking vessel hove in sight, laying-to under close reefed top-sails: we altered our course, and were immediately chased. Having at least forty-five young fellows, and about a dozen six-pounders, on board, we cleared ship for action. Imagine what was our surprise at finding that, under the identical hatchway, over which our captain had been perpetually smoking, was a magazine of about thirty barrels of gun-powder; some hooped in, and some having their chimes barely covering their contents which proved to be ready-filled cartridges! I conceive it would have been utterly impossible, if the vessel in chace had proved an enemy, and that we had been compelled to defend our ship, to have avoided being blown up!

Many are in the habit of reading by candle light in their beds: this only requires to be known to the officers, to be completely overruled; nor will they, unless in cases of indisposition, allow a candle to be burning after the passengers have generally retired to rest. Hence, only a few wax tapers, or bougies, can be requisite. When it is considered, that a ship is composed of materials for the chief part highly combustible, and, that in such a situation a fire spreads with astonishing rapidity, defying the exertions of all on board; also, that there is little chance of many lives being saved, unless other vessels may be in company; we ought assuredly to adopt every means of guarding against so terrible a calamity!

Most ships have a small fire-engine on board, which is not only an admirable safe-guard, but facilitates the washing of decks; an operation that usually takes place once or twice weekly. At such times all the chests are sent below, and all the hammocks hauled upon deck, for the purpose of being aired. Seamen become habitually cleanly in their persons, and in their bedding; but when recruits are on board, they, being less attentive to personal appearance and to comfort, not only breed vermin, but sometimes propagate infectious diseases. Hence, a small quantity of vermin-ointment will perhaps prove an useful succedaneum; its timous application preventing the growth of any colony, of which some stragglers may have laid the foundation.

When the decks are washed, it is customary to exercise the seamen in the use of great guns. For this purpose the drum beats to quarters; when all repair to their several stations, and, under the instruction of the several officers, go through the ordinary operations attendant upon that branch of discipline. No persons, of whatever description, females excepted, are exempted from being appointed to some post, where their services may be efficient. The military officers are allotted to commands on the poop, fore-castle, waist, &c.; having under them such cadets and recruits as may be on board; the whole acting as marines. The surgeon, with his mates, those of the sick who are incapable of taking an active part, together with all females, descend to the cock-pit; which, being below the level of the water-line, is tolerably secure from danger; though sometimes a shot, between wind and water, will find its way to that retreat.

The crew are always portioned into two watches, except when very numerous; in which case, as well as during the time a vessel is in port, they divide them, including recruits, &c. into three watches. The chief mate commands the starboard-watch; the second mate commands the larboard-watch; and, when there are three, the other, called the mid-watch, is commanded by the third mate. It is customary to relieve the watch every four hours, except in the interval between four and eight o’clock in the evening, which is divided into two reliefs, of two hours each, called ’dog-watches.’ But for the intervention of these, there would be no change in the times of coming upon duty; as each of the starboard and larboard watches would, respectively, come on at the same hours daily; and this would be the same, even if a mid-watch existed: whereas, by dividing the evening-watch, it occasions an odd number, and changes the tour, or series, every day.

Where supplies of provisions are not attainable, it necessarily follows that each person on board can receive only a stipulated allowance of meat, water, &c. This does not always affect those who are at the captain’s table; though it is generally recommended to the passengers to be economical in their expenditure of water for washing, shaving, &c. In some ships they are restricted to a quart daily, and if the crew are upon short allowance, which is understood to be the case when each man receives less than two quarts, the passengers and officers have little or no fresh water allowed for the above purposes; but their beverage at table is rarely limited, except under the pressure of actual necessity.

All things considered, the privations experienced by passengers to India are by no means so numerous, nor so severe in their operation, as might at first view be apprehended. In many ships, ladies and gentlemen skilled in music are adventitiously assembled, and, by their united talents, afford a most pleasing recreation to all on board: few vessels are totally destitute of some means to attract the parties towards the quarter-deck; where, in the cool of the evening, during fair weather, the merry dance for a while banishes ennui, and contributes to give a wholesome impetus to the circulation.

Those ladies who are partial to music should be particularly careful that the piano-fortes they may take with them, be constructed in such manner as may exempt them from those wondrous effects produced by the climate of India. I have had the pleasure of aiding several friends in this instance, and found that the instruments made for exportation could never be depended upon, unless clamped at every joint with plates of brass, and secured, in the more delicate parts, by means of battens well screwed and cemented to the sounding board. Experience has fully satisfied me, that the pianos most appropriate for hot climates are made by Clementi, Kirkman, and Tomkinson, at their respective manufactories in London.

Ladies will derive considerable convenience and gratification from having an exterior case made to enclose the piano-forte, leaving a space of about an inch all around. This outward safe-guard should be of planed deal, stained of a mahogany color, or painted; and it should open in front, so as to admit of playing the instrument, while its lid should be fixed upon hinges, that it may be thrown back at pleasure. The lower part of the frame may be packed, and laid by; a spare frame of deal being substituted during the voyage, with a set of shelves below to contain music, books, &c.; all locked up by means of folding doors. Both the exterior case, and the frame, ought to be furnished with lacquered iron handles, whereby to lift them occasionally; but particularly intended to secure them to the side of the ship, and to the deck: without such a precaution the whole would be tumbled about, and shivered to atoms, by the vessel’s motion.

Gentlemen who perform on stringed instruments, should be careful to provide an ample supply of strings, firsts and fourths especially; they being not only very dear, and perhaps damaged, when procurable, but at times not procurable, in any part of India, for love or money! Reeds for oboes, clarionets, bassoons, &c. are similarly circumstanced. Nor would it be superfluous for a lady to take with her several sets of wires for her piano; they being very scarce. At all events, she ought to qualify herself to tune the instrument; which may be effected in the course of a month, or six weeks, by attention to the instructions of a regular tuner, who would feel himself well satisfied under a moderate compensation. This is a point whereon I dwell rather particularly; knowing that, even in Calcutta, Madras, or Bombay, a good tuner is not always to be had; and that, in all other situations, throughout the interior scarce a professional person can be found. Besides, in a country whose climate deranges the most skilful adjustment of the wires, often in a few minutes, merely by a slight exposure to heat, or to damp, the expence attendant upon such frequent tunings, as are indispensably requisite, would speedily absorb the full value of the instrument itself; the ordinary rates being a guinea for a grand-piano, and twelve shillings for a square one. Therefore, whether considered as a convenience, or as a matter of economy, too much cannot be said in recommendation of every lady’s learning to tune her piano before she embarks.

It being impossible to say how soon rough weather may be experienced after leaving port, (indeed, sometimes ships get under weigh while it is blowing very fresh,) it is usual to lash the dinner tables to the deck, placing their feet in mortices cut into small blocks, called cleats, which, being firmly nailed down, generally keep the whole sufficiently firm. It is not easy to render the chairs equally secure; but they are tolerably steadied by nailing two rows of battens on each side of the table, so as to embrace the legs of the chairs, which, in this mode of securing them, ought all to be of equal compass from front to rear. It requires, after all, some management to preserve an equilibrium when a ship rolls much; which it does chiefly in a calm, or in a gale of wind. In the former instance, the transitions of reclination from starboard to larboard, and vice versâ, are often very great, owing to the heavy swell which alternately raises the ship, and again sinks her into the trough made by two successive waves. However curious it may seem to persons unacquainted with sea affairs, it is nevertheless certain, that more masts are lost by rolling in a calm, than by stress of weather.

In regard to that most distressing malady, sea-sickness, it is not possible to lay down any specific mode of precaution, or of remedy: it ordinarily commences with that agitation occasioned in the vessel’s motion, by either the wind’s force, or the water’s undulation. Few experience more than a few qualms, while the water is smooth; such as is the case in going through the Needles with a leading wind, in fine weather; but when upon a wind, with a chopping sea, and sudden, or forcible, gusts, all who are not accustomed to the motion, become most oppressively sick. However much they may be affected by this customary derangement, those suffering under its influence are more frequently objects of derisive merriment, than of compassion. The prevalent opinion is, that, in a few days, the complaint will disappear; hence it is regarded as a matter of course, and as a seasoning, which, by its mode of operation, rather conduces to health, than to a dangerous issue. That such is the usual result, cannot be denied; but there are some constitutions which cannot stand so forcible an attack: women, in general, are most severely oppressed by it, and some few fall victims thereto.

It would be endless to enumerate all the recipes, which those who fancy themselves qualified to prescribe, tender on this occasion to the unhappy sufferers. I believe that acids and laudanum, in repeated small doses, are most successfully administered; though I have seen them fail. That unfeeling advice given to the unwary, ‘to drink a glass of spirits,’ invariably tends to aggravate all the symptoms, and, with those not habituated to such strong remedies, produces all those inconveniences attendant upon super-added irritation. The fresh air upon deck will be found considerably to diminish the force of the complaint; but the eyes should be kept shut, and the attention be withdrawn from the sea, and from the rigging; of both which the motion is peculiarly calculated to increase that swimming in the head inseparably attendant on sea-sickness. If, notwithstanding these precautions, the nausea and derangement should continue, it will be proper to retire to bed; observing the precaution of lying on one side, and keeping the eyes closed.

There may, perhaps, be no harm in taking a small case of spirits on board; but such is by no means indispensable: they do not come within the scope of a gentleman’s expenditure; and, unless preserved with uncommon vigilance, will probably be drawn off by some adventuring fellow, provided with a pick-lock, while the owner is either asleep or absent. I cannot too strongly inculcate, that every thing should be under lock and key: ships, of every description, are infested with petty pilferers, and sometimes with more expert and daring thieves; who will not fail to purloin whatever can be turned to use, in such manner as may not lead to discovery. The effects of passengers, especially, are considered to be fair booty. Blankets, sheets, &c. will all disappear towards the close of a voyage, or when in a port where they can be sold, or bartered away, if their owners confide too much in the honesty of their neighbours.

The third mate generally has a mess, in the expences of which the fourth, fifth, and sixth mates sometimes partake; the purser and surgeon being invariably at the captain’s table. The captain’s clerk, who is usually a midshipman, the surgeon’s mate, when there is one, and the second class of passengers, all mess with the third mate, who is allowed a certain space before the officers’ cabins; which, being enclosed with canvas, makes a very tolerable berth, wherein the table is laid. Those of the mess who belong to the ship, subscribe to lay in such articles of provision, chandlery, &c. as may suffice for their own consumption; the sums paid by passengers, who associate with them, being applied in due proportion towards the maintenance of the latter; any balances arising therein becoming the perquisite of the third mate. I have heard, that, with the exception of so large a proportion of live stock as is destined for the captain’s table, the mate’s mess, in some ships, claims the palm in many respects. When so many passengers are ordered on board, as to render it impracticable for the captain to accommodate the whole at his table, the later applicants are consigned to the mate’s mess during meals; but are admitted, so far as convenience can be extended, to a participation of the amusements and society of the round-house. On some occasions the mate’s mess has, from the above cause, been able to boast of rather eminent characters.

Those who are fond of fishing, may sometimes derive much amusement from the possession of a stock of tackle suited to the occasion. In warm weather, especially towards the Line, when moderate weather and calms prevail, many sharks may be taken. The hook for this purpose ought to be about a foot long in the shank (the other parts bearing a just proportion) which should be firmly attached to a stout piece of chain, from two to four feet in length, having at its other extremity a loop and swivel, to which the rope (such as is called inch and half rope, and ought to be full a hundred yards long) is tied; the bait, a piece of fat pork, of about three or four pounds weight. The weight of the chain and hook will suffice to sink the bait to about thirty feet below the surface, where it will soon be discerned by the sharks, which generally keep under the vessel’s bottom, or play around her at a considerable depth; though they will occasionally range along the ship’s side, or bask under the stern, so as to be easily shot with a musquet ball, or struck with a harpoon.

Even at the depth of fifty feet, the shark may be distinguished as he approaches the bait, by a luminous appearance, extending in an oval form, in that direction in which he swims. He generally seizes with avidity, turning on his side at the moment; without which he could not get it into his mouth, owing to the excessive length of his upper jaw. So soon as the bait is in his mouth, the fish, on feeling the resistance of the rope, makes a sudden plunge downward, at the same moment recovering his former position. The hook, being extremely sharp, rarely fails to pierce the jaw, when, in an instant, the whole length of line will be run out. As no human force could properly be relied on to check the fish’s course, the end of the rope is either fastened to some timber-head, or to a tackle fall: the latter is preferable, because it adds to the length of the line, and does not check the fish so suddenly: without the latter precaution, the rope may be snapped, or the hook torn away from the shark’s jaw. The quantity of heavy line, added to the weight of the hooks and chain, soon bring the fish under command, when he is towed up to the gang-way, and there, by means of a slip-knot passed over his fins, hoisted into the waist.

Few persons will taste of a blue shark, it being considered unwholesome; but of the brown shark, which rarely exceeds five feet in length, (while the former has been known to measure near thirty,) most of the seamen will solicit a steak. The average sizes of sharks may be from six to twelve feet in length: it is very common to collect a pailful of young ones, each about a foot long, that take refuge in the parent’s maw. Behind the fins are usually several sucking-fishes, adhering to the shark’s sides: these are supposed to live upon its blood; but some doubts may be entertained, at least whether that is its sole subsistence, when I state, that in Madras Roads I caught, by means of a hook and line put out for ground fishes, a sucking-fish that measured rather more than two feet.

Sharks are in general attended by what are called pilot-fishes: these are beautifully striped blue and white; in form they much resemble the chub, and may measure from ten to fifteen inches in length. When the shark displays himself, the pilot-fishes may be seen playing about his head and sides; but when the ship is going fast, and the shark keeps under the bottom, or stern, at a considerable depth, the pilot-fishes often rise to the surface, assembling in the eddy about the stern-post. I never could entice one of them to touch a bait.

In the higher latitudes, the albacore, boneta, dolphin, &c. may often be seen playing about the ship in great numbers; sometimes as though intent on keeping company for scores of miles. Porpoises are yet more familiar, and delight in preceding the ship, at a few yards distance; affording, to those who are expert, excellent opportunities for striking them with harpoons. The liver of the porpoise is esteemed by many to be as good as that of a pig; to which it bears some resemblance; the body of the fish is by no means palatable. The flesh of the dolphin is extremely dry, as is that of the boneta, which is commonly replete with small white animalculæ, not unlike short fat maggots. The albacore is inconceivably rapacious; often springing several yards out of the water after the flying-fishes, as they skim above the surface; which they sometimes do for full two hundred yards; their great enemy darting along under their course with incredible velocity, and rarely failing to make a prey of one, or more, as they fall into the water in an exhausted state.

While bonetas, and dolphins, may be taken by almost any bait, the albacore rarely can be attracted by any device wherein there is not some resemblance to the flying-fish. I have seen numbers taken, when the ship has been going fast through the water, by securing a three-inch hook to a slip of bacon fat, cut into the form of a fish, and further disguised by a long white feather, taken from a goose’s wing, stuck on each side. The line for such a purpose should be stout laid-cord; for, though bonetas rarely exceed twenty, and dolphins forty pounds, albacores will often be taken weighing from one to two hundred: I have, indeed, heard of their reaching to three hundred weight. Their flesh may be compared with carrion; it being coarse, tough, and very strong tasted; but, though not pleasing to the human palate, it is a very choice bait, attracting all fishes of prey. Albacores sometimes snap at the log; which is a small piece of triangular board, loaded at one corner with lead, and fastened to a long line wound on a reel. The log being lowered into the sea, will remain stationary; drawing the line off the reel in proportion to the velocity with which the ship is then passing through the water: the number of yards run off, while a minute glass is emptying, shews the number of knots, i.e. miles, sailed within the hour.

It is not uncommon, when in the vicinity of islands, to see turtles lying on the surface of the sea, fast asleep; these can sometimes be taken, if two or three careful men proceed in the jolly-boat, paddling her along with an oar out at her stern. The turtle should be secured by one of the crew dropping gently into the water, and swimming very cautiously until he can pass a slip-knot over the hind fin, generally called the fipper; the other end of the line being fast to some part of the boat.

Touching at Ascension on our way from India, for the express purpose of obtaining a supply of turtles, I had an opportunity of witnessing the facility with which they may be taken at certain seasons, when in the act of copulation; as happened while we were there, in January. The turtles floated in pairs, in a state approaching to lethargy; allowing our whale boats to run along-side of them, without, in general, being alarmed. The first object was to pass a boat-hook over each shoulder of the male, to prevent his escape; for, on being touched, these invariably quitted their mates, and endeavored to strike downwards. The instant the boat-hooks, were placed, their inverted points acting as curbs, a third hand dexterously passed the noose over the fipper, and left the turtle in charge of a second or third boat, to which the other end of the noose line was fastened. In that manner we took about a dozen one morning, in less than two hours; but were not equally successful in our operations on shore. There we hid ourselves, about night-fall, behind the masses of rock every where scattered on the beach, and, allowing the females to pass us, with the intention of depositing their eggs in the dry sand, beyond the reach of the surf, endeavored to intercept them in their way back to the water. Not a doubt was entertained that we should turn them over by scores; but, with the exception of one unfortunate female, which by chance ran headlong against a crag, our hopes proved to be visionary. The awkward gait of these unwieldy animals, added to the clouds of light sand they threw up, completely defeated our most zealous exertions. We had recourse to our oars, placing them in the way of the turtle, and using them as levers wherewith to overturn the shuffling animals; but in every attempt the turtle only slipped a little to one side: therefore, after breaking several oars, we found it expedient to desist.

While we were on shore, the gulls hovered about us like so many gnats; absolutely darkening the air, and perching familiarly on our heads and shoulders. These subsist chiefly on the shoals of mackarel cast ashore by every surf. I am confident that many a heave of the sea threw up a cart load of those fishes; some of which were drawn off by the next heave, but thousands lay along the beach time enough to be carried off by the gulls. Sharks were to be seen in every direction, and of all sizes; the large ones generally swimming near the surface, with their back-fins exposed to view, and the lesser ones at about two or three fathoms deep, on every side of the ship. I was desirous to catch one of them for the sake of its skin, but we were so environed by shoals of the chætodon plectorhenchus, or pleat-nose chætodon, which took their station much nearer the surface, and intercepted my baits, though they were tied down to the hooks with worsted yarn, (some indeed being enveloped in cloth, and secured in a similar manner), that not one hook was allowed to descend to the level where the sharks abounded. Many hundreds of the chætodon were taken, and, after being stripped of their skins, which make a beautiful black shagreen, though in the water they appear to be chiefly blue and yellow, were thrown to their greedy brethren, by whom they were speedily devoured.

It should be noticed, for the benefit of those who may touch at Ascension, either on their way to St. Helena outward-bound, or in coming homeward from that rendezvous, that we hooked several very fine fishes, especially the much-admired Bull’s-eye, by trailing a bait, about fifty or sixty yards astern, as we sailed partly round the island. Close in shore, among the crags, just beyond reach of the surf, we caught half a boat load of old-maids in very little time.

The modern course of ships proceeding to India, ordinarily carries them near the Cape de Verde, and Canary islands; where, if wine is to be taken in, a detention of ten or twelve days may happen. This being, in all probability, the first opportunity that may offer of going on shore, after leaving England, it may be proper to caution the young adventurer not to ridicule, nor in any way to shew disrespect towards, the religious ceremonies of the Roman Catholics who possess those islands.

Under the exercise of prudence and discretion, all persons landing among the Portuguese are certain of receiving every civility and attention; but, when insulted, no race of men are more irascible or vindictive: the offender is sure to fall a victim to their unrelenting vengeance! At either of these islands, but especially at St. Jago, abundance of fresh provisions may be obtained: in all of them the tropical fruits abound, but should not be eaten to excess; lest a dysentery, which, in those latitudes, proceeds with hasty strides towards death’s portal, should ensue.

Many vessels, after proceeding down the Atlantic in a mid direction, between the Azores and the Canaries, until they catch the trade-winds, which in that part blow constantly from the north-east, or nearly so, stretch over to the coast of Brazil, along which they run, to about 30° south, for the purpose of avoiding the south-east trade-wind prevailing to the southward of the Line; then being in the way of variable winds, they shape their course towards the Cape of Good Hope. Few quit this coast without putting into some port for a supply of wood, water, fresh provision of sorts, &c. Rio Janiero is the most frequented by British Indiamen, both on account of its safe harbour, and the abundance of supplies it can afford. Being in latitude 23°, it will be requisite to guard against the great heats incident thereto, and to be careful not to encounter the nightly dews, which are here extremely heavy, and give birth to the most dangerous species of fever.

The customs of the inhabitants throughout this coast being nearly alike, a description of one portion may suffice for the whole.

The natives of this part of South America appear to be particularly inoffensive, and to submit with perfect resignation to the authority of their conquerors. They are of a middling stature and well-proportioned; their complexions dark, and their hair lank and black. From what I saw of Pernambuco and Olinda, which lie in about 7° south, it should seem that the houses of the better class are well calculated to debar access to the powerful influence of the sun; which, for six months, is nearly vertical at the above parallel of latitude, and does not form a very acute angle with the northern horizon at any time of the year.

The Portuguese have organized several regiments of the natives, clothed and armed in the European style: it was not easy to ascertain the state of discipline of these troops; but, if we are to judge from the equipment and appearance of the regiments in the mother-country, it might be reasonable to entertain some doubts regarding their prowess.

Notwithstanding the intense heat of the climate, the Portuguese inhabitants omit no religious duties; nor do they ever appear in that deshabille we should expect to see generally adopted among an effeminate people, under such circumstances in regard to locality. It could not fail to prove highly amusing, when we beheld boys, of about six or seven years of age, full-dressed according to court etiquette, with bags, ruffles, swords, &c. representing the more ancient part of their population in miniature. These young gentlemen, as well as their seniors, and especially the ladies, were seen every-where riding in vehicles very strongly resembling the chair-palanquins of India, but carried by only two men; one before and one behind.

The profusion of compliments, and of real civilities, we experienced, were absolutely burthensome; we were every-where welcomed in the most kind and liberal manner; barges, rowing from twelve to thirty oars, were at our command, to take us to and from the ship, which could not pass the Bar of Pernambuco, and lay full four miles from the shore, in seven fathoms. As to fruits, fish, vegetables, and poultry, they may be had to any amount, of the first quality; their beef and mutton are not, however, much to be praised, and their pork is intolerably fat, without being firm. This last is one of the principal viands at the tables of the Portuguese, in every quarter of the globe, and is dressed in various ways, all equally offensive to a delicate stomach. The serenity of the weather rendered the acquisition of a supply of excellent water very easy; the casks being floated to and from the shore; all fastened to ropes, and towed by the large boats already mentioned.

The land lying low towards the beach, though backed at some distance by hills, occasioned us to be within a few leagues before we discovered our proximity to the Continent; and we should probably have run into shallow water, had not a large floating object been seen about a mile from us. Our glasses speedily enabled us to distinguish persons moving on a low frame, that we conjectured could be nothing less than some great fragment of a wreck. Boats were immediately hoisted out, and, in less than half an hour, we had the satisfaction to see our quarter-deck covered with a variety of fine fishes, chiefly rock-cod, that had been taken by the industrious Indians, whose catamaran we had mistaken for the remains of some unfortunate vessel.

Although we could not converse with these people, it was natural for us to suppose we were not far from land; to which they directed our attention, and by significant signs, as well as by leading on the catamaran, of which they had hoisted the sail, pilotted us to the Roads of Pernambuco, leaving us in good anchoring water, and gratefully receiving some beads, and other trinkets, of no value in our estimation, but highly prized among them, in exchange for the excellent repast they had afforded to the whole ship’s company.

A few days before our arrival at Pernambuco, the usual ceremonies attendant upon crossing the Line were duly observed. Those who had never been so far to the southward, were impressed with the belief that sundry operations, by no means pleasant, were to take place: among other things, it was said they were to be suspended from the fore-yard arm, and to be thoroughly ducked by frequent dips into the sea. However unreasonable this may appear, there exists no doubt of such a practice having been perfectly common about forty or fifty years back; it was then regarded as an excellent joke, affording wondrous merriment to the veteran part of the crew. In time, the practice ceased; either from the interposition of good sense, or owing to the judicious distribution of some liquor among the chiefs of the dramatis personæ.

The amusements incident on this occasion are not very tedious, and, though filthy in the extreme, cannot be witnessed without exciting much laughter. About noon, the boatswain, being full dressed as the god of the ocean, is supposed to hail the ship, enquiring whence she comes? whither she is bound? and if any persons are on board who never before crossed the great boundary dividing the northern from the southern hemisphere? After much pompous and authoritative elocution, wherein Neptune declares a firm resolution not to relinquish his rights, he ascends at the bow, under which his car is supposed to be in waiting, whence, attended by his mates, whose paraphernalia accord with the dignity of their office, and the solemnity of the occasion, he proceeds to the quarter-deck, where, after an appropriate speech, he exercises his powers of divination, and in a few minutes discovers the several novices who are to submit to his decrees. His god-head, like his progenitor of ancient times, invariably has an eye to business; and as the sea deity of the Greeks was supposed to delight in ample sacrifices, so does his descendant, or rather his representative, of our time, equally cherish the idea of copious libations in honor of the day. Hence, there is little difficulty in appeasing his wrath, and conciliating his good-will towards the vessel and her crew, by the immolation of from two to three gallons each, of good rum or gin; which, being duly tendered to the officiating priests, soon reach their destination, and avert the threatened danger.

While this is going on, some of the old hands are busied in the construction of a ship, which is to be launched in the presence of the deity, under whose auspices she is to sail the world over, and back again, in perfect safety! This important duty is conducted with great precision, and takes place in the lee-waist, where all the novices among the sailors, recruits, &c. are ranged in two rows, face to face, to represent the ribs of the stately Argo.

It is usual to select some of the more pliant, or silly, of the party, to form the head and bows: one of these being placed in the centre, looking forward, his head covered with a long swab, of which the threads hang down nearly to his heels, and his face being smeared with all the filth the ship affords, by way of paint, is considered the typical figure suited to the nomenclature of the vessel.

All being in readiness, the builders attend Neptune as he retires, in order to allow the shoars to be knocked away, that the launch may take place: the captain and his officers aid the farce by encouraging the passengers to advance towards the waist, there to view the construction; when, at a fit moment, the god roars forth his mandate for committing his protegé to the deep. It, however, unluckily happens that the vessel does not shew any disposition to quit the stocks; therefore, as she will not proceed to the water, the only chance of setting her afloat is by causing the water to proceed to her; which it accordingly does from some dozens of buckets, &c. previously secreted in the fore and main tops, and in the long boat, for that purpose. This drenching concludes the show, and the crew retire to make merry upon the amount of their collections, which, when not sufficiently abundant to afford a moderate allowance to each, is liberally augmented from the ship’s stores.

The sabbath is always observed on board every Indiaman with perfect decorum: there being no chaplain on board, unless perchance as a passenger, the captain, or one of the officers, reads the morning service, and eventually a short lecture suited to the audience, consisting of all on board who are not confined by illness. It is not easy to describe the decency which prevails on such occasions; the whole standing bare-headed on the quarterdeck, and refraining from every act, or look, that might trespass on propriety.

Many sailors, notwithstanding the character in which they are generally accepted, are of a very religious disposition, and are easily led by those who shew a reverence for the church establishment. Yet, like most persons bred up in ignorance, they are shamefully superstitious, and often entertain notions very little short of those which actuated their ancestors to throw Jonah overboard. However ridiculous it may appear, yet it is strictly true, that among hundreds of the bravest tars, one wag may, by whisperings, groanings, &c. aided by a white sheet, and a hollow intonation, create a most disgraceful panic. But our terrestrial population, of corresponding rank, can claim no title to laugh at their peers on the element. The sermon lately delivered and printed, by the Rev. Isaac Nicholson, A.M. Curate of Great Paxton, in the county of Huntingdon, in consequence of two attacks on the person of Ann Izzard, a reputed witch, whereby Alice Russel, who endeavored to protect that poor woman, was destroyed, evinces the deplorable state in which the minds of our lower orders remain, notwithstanding the great expence incurred for the propagation of the Scriptures among them, and the infinite pains taken to instruct those who cannot afford to pay for education.

Funerals at sea can rarely boast of much display, but their attendants are often sincere mourners. Confined within a narrow space, the loss of a companion is not easily forgotten; every object reminds us of his fate, and exacts a sigh! Few linger, either of disease, or of wounds, so long as persons under similar circumstances would do on shore. The want of room, of fresh air, of clean linen, of suitable diet, and of a change of scene, all contribute, notwithstanding the most assiduous attendance, to depress the spirits, and to aggravate the symptoms. Above all, the ravages of scurvy are peculiarly distressing, and tend most to dishearten: even those in perfect health become alarmed, and, from that circumstance alone, often participate in the dreadful evil.

It being utterly inadmissible that a corpse should be retained on board, no time is lost in sewing it up in a hammock; placing a few lumps of coal, or other ponderous matter, at the feet, to cause its sinking. Thus prepared, it is laid upon a grating at the lee gang-way; and, after the usual burial service, at which all attend, is committed to the deep. In some instances, during calms, sharks have been seen to dart from under the vessel, and to attack the corpse in the most ravenous manner. It is well known that all sickly ships are attended by many of those fishes; which, if numerous in the vicinity of a healthy vessel, are, in the opinions of the crew, the surest indications of great mortality on board. Without pretending to doubt the acuteness of a shark’s sense of smelling, it may be permitted us rather to ascribe their congregating to chance, than to their supposed powers of anticipation: at the same time there can be little doubt, that certain effluvia must escape from a vessel not duly purified by ventilation and ablution; and that such a neglect will rarely fail to induce diseases of the most malignant description; thereby giving a latitude, among those who view things superficially, to adduce instances apparently confirmative of their assertions.

Whatever convenience it may be thought to afford to the survivors, it appears to me, that the customary sale of all the effects of the deceased, indiscriminately in general, is contrary to the dictates of prudence, so far as relates to salubrity. That, in such a situation, whatever is appreciable may produce a better price, cannot be controverted; but I should rather incline to think it were better to forego that advantage, than to risk the dissemination of disease, though not previously malignant, by an unlimited distribution of the apparel of one demising under any clinical distemper. To say the least, perfect ventilation should be given to every atom; nor would the trouble or expence (if any) of fumigating the wearing apparel, and bed-clothes, be ill bestowed: perhaps baking would be found the safest precaution.

It has already been stated, that, in rounding the Cape, the weather may be expected to correspond with the season of the year: this is so well understood, that it is only during the summer season in that quarter, vessels are considered to be safe in Table Bay, situated to the north of a low, flat, sandy isthmus, over which it is evident the sea formerly flowed into False Bay, lying a few miles to the southward. The mouths of the two bays have different aspects; consequently, when a channel existed such as I have described, the Table Mountain, whence the northerly bay derives its designation, together with Cape Town, which stands between the mountain and that bay, together with Wineburg, Witti-boom, Constantia, &c. &c. including a length of about forty-five miles by four, on an average, in breadth, must have been insulated.

When a ship is to touch at the Cape, it is very desirable, on every account, that her arrival should take place during the summer season; so that she may come to anchor in Table Bay, about half a mile distant from the wharf. The convenience, thus afforded, of going immediately into comfortable lodgings, where nothing is wanting that can tend to the refreshment of persons fatigued by those narrow limits within which they have been confined, probably for ten or twelve weeks, is not to be calculated. The Dutch, it is true, are most offensively avaricious; but that must be compounded for, in consideration of the satisfaction attendant upon the liberty of taking exercise in a fine climate, abounding with the most delicious fruits, the choicest vegetables, and that kind of social intercourse, which, chasing away the recollection of former langour, gives energy to meet succeeding dulness and inactivity. The British visitor will, however, experience considerable disappointment if he expects to witness the performance of dramatic pieces, or that jocund hilarity which with us prevails among persons long resident together. On the contrary, the inhabitants of Cape Town think of nothing but money-making; in which they are neither inexpert, nor very scrupulous. In public, they are so awkward, stiff, and unsociable, that I have often been surprised they did not go to sleep at their visits. If such was the state of society only a few years ago, what must it have been previous to the occupation of the Cape, during the American war, by two French regiments; which, according to the confession of the Dutch themselves, made a very considerable improvement in their breed?

Few of those who take lodgers will admit such as do not board with them: the rates are not in any instance fixed, but the average may be taken at from three to four rix-dollars for each lady or gentleman, half-price for young children, and one dollar for each servant, per diem. From this it may be collected, that a single gentleman must be an economist if he manages to pay his expences of board, washing, horse-hire, &c. under thirty shillings daily.—The rix-dollar is fixed at four shillings; but is an imaginary sum. Notes of any value may be had; but gold and silver currency are scarcely ever seen; the Dutch being extremely eager to obtain guineas at twenty-one shillings currency, and re-selling them at the rate generally of six and a half, or seven rix-dollars. Persons visiting the Cape should be careful to reserve their cash until about to pay their bills, and then to account their guineas at their current value, as above shewn. Such is the estimation in which bullion is held, that no small coins are any where to be seen; even shillings, and stivers are paid in paper currency. Passengers from India ought to take a bag of rupees of the worst description; for, whether sicca or tersooly, each will be gladly received, without distinction, at two shillings and sixpence.

The cookery of the Dutch is pretty nearly on a par with their flesh-meats; their beef, mutton, veal, and pork, being rarely of tolerable quality, and invariably made to float in strong sauce, of which butter and spices are the chief ingredients. The table is, in most houses, laid in a central hall, looking into a garden; the floors are all painted, that they may not absorb the damp when washed, as they are almost daily: the beds are tolerably good, and the apartments of a moderate size. Before every house, is an elevated terrace, on a level with the ground-floor, having at each end a seat, usually of masonry also. On this terrace, called the steupe, the Dutch promenade half the day in fair weather, enjoying their pipes, and occasionally taking their sopkies; which are small glasses of raw spirits, for the most part hollands, their servants tender to them at intervals, as a matter of course.

The extensive gardens of the late Dutch Company, through the centre of which is a broad gravel-walk full half a mile in length, are crowded every Sunday evening, and on all festive days, by a promiscuous group, who walk in parties, to and fro, under the shade of the oaks and other trees planted on either side. There is also an institution, but of a more private nature, and frequented, with few exceptions, by the Dutch only. It is held at a neat house, where wines, &c. are sold, having attached to it a spacious garden; not unlike some of our tea-drinking places in the vicinity of London. This is called Concordia; a name perfectly unsuited to the scenes occasionally disgracing the interior, which has more than once excited the attention of our government, in consequence of the seditious principles of its visitors.

The late Lord Macartney did not fail to keep a watchful eye over Concordia, as well as to check, in their infancy, whatever attempts might be made to spread, and to inculcate, revolutionary principles. A large portion of the inhabitants being descended from delinquents who had quitted their native country, as Gil Blas says, ‘not without good reason,’ and having rarely paid much deference to their rulers in Europe, it is not to be wondered at, that those doctrines of the mountain, which condemned Louis the XVI. should have been adopted at the Cape. Such was the advance made in the cant of the day, and so numerous were the meetings at Concordia, that Lord Macartney judged it necessary to adopt measures for bringing his Dutch subjects to their senses; which he did in a manner that reflected the greatest credit on himself, and evinced with what facility traitors may be subdued under a just and energetic government. Among the many who resorted to Concordia every evening, was a great farmer, known at the Cape under the designation of Boor, who was particularly smitten with the new-fangled terms of gallic civism: if I err not, his name was Van Clootz. He was of immense stature, and ordinarily wore a round slouched hat, about the diameter of a gentleman’s umbrella; and as he paraded through the streets, sitting on the front board of his waggon, drawn by eight Spanish horses, always appeared like some enormous wild beast belonging to Mr. Pidcock’s menagerie.

This monstrous great man (long considered the key-stone of the arch-traitors of Constantia) was summoned, in a civil manner, by Lord Macartney; who, in becoming terms, rebuked him for his folly, and explained the whole extent of what had been reported, regarding the proceedings of those who visited the garden. Mynheer was not to be talked out of his veneration for the Revolution in France; and declared, that, in his opinion, it would be equal to a martyrdom to die in so glorious a cause. It was in vain his Lordship depicted the horrors attendant upon so great a reverse; the boor’s enthusiasm rendered him blind to such trifles, and to all those excesses which inseparably accompany civil convulsion.

In the course of a few days, Van Clootz was informed, that a troop of cavalry had arrived at a farm he had on the borders of Hottentot Holland, about thirty miles from the Cape, and that it was supposed they would remain some time in that neighborhood. The boor was delighted at the prospect of a long bill for hay, corn, &c. &c. folio after folio; every day’s stay was joyfully noted! It was not long, however, before complaints were made that the troopers behaved in a licentious manner, killing his poultry, destroying his fences, plundering his garden, kissing his maids, and the Lord knows what! Now, as most of his stock was consumed, it was no longer an object for Mynheer to court the stay of the cavalry; therefore he went boldly to Lord Macartney with a long list of damages, and his bill for corn, &c. demanding, in a very haughty manner, that the farm should be evacuated by his now unwelcome visitors.

‘Bless me, Mr. Van Clootz,’ said his lordship, ‘why, I thought you was delighted with revolutionary principles?’—‘Yes, my lord, I am so; the acts of the French nation should be written in characters of gold!’—‘And yet, Mr. Van Clootz, you complain against the troop I sent to be quartered upon you—no, no, Sir; you have been so fond of the sweets of revolution, that I am resolved you shall taste some of its bitters also: therefore the cavalry shall remain at your farm, until you acknowledge the benefits of British protection, and retire peaceably to your lands, there to cultivate corn, instead of sowing sedition at Constantia.’

The result may be easily guessed: Constantia was depopulated, and Mynheer Van Clootz was held in derision throughout the Cape. It should not remain untold, that, however strict Lord Macartney might have been during the time he governed at the Cape, such was the impression made by his equitable, liberal, and firm conduct, that, when he embarked for Europe, the inhabitants were truly grieved; but consoled themselves under the hope, that a petition they sent to his Majesty, for the re-appointment of his lordship, might prove successful.

Many of the farms, within the compass of a morning’s ride, are well worth seeing; not as objects of imitation, but as displaying much novelty, and tending to afford a just idea of the character of a Dutch agriculturist in that quarter. The vineyards, and depôts of wine at Constantia, are certainly curious; especially when it is considered, that the soil which produces that luscious wine, is confined to a very few acres, I believe not more than forty, beyond which, sets from the same vines, under circumstances of perfect equality, in regard to site and culture, produce a very different liquor, little superior to that sold at the several wine-houses at sixpence per quart, and possessing a peculiar terraceous flavor, which does not diminish by keeping. The stranger not habituated to the use of the Cape wines, either white or red, should be extremely cautious on his first arrival to avoid them; drinking port in their stead. A neglect of this precaution will produce considerable inconvenience, and may be attended with habitual diarrhœa. I was one of four, who, on landing at False Bay, drank about three or four glasses each, and were violently affected by it during the whole of the following night.

Many whalers frequent the coast to the eastward of the Cape, where they kill numbers of the white species, which supply both spermaceti, and the oil bearing that name. In False Bay, which includes a space equal to at least two hundred square miles, black whales may often be seen sporting about; as, indeed, they may, in Table Bay, close in among the rocks, about half a mile below the fort. A few are killed by the crews of such ships as have not been so fortunate as to fill with the former kind; but it seems to be done almost as much for pastime as for profit; the oil extracted from black whales being very low in price; it neither burning well, nor making so good soap as the spermaceti kind.

Although the winter months are held to be very dangerous for vessels riding in Table Bay, on account of the dreadful swell that sometimes sets in from the north-west, towards which it is much exposed, it is, however, rare that vessels are lost therein during that season; no doubt, in consequence of their very short stay, and of their usually proceeding to Seamon’s Bay, the inhabited part of which is about twenty-five miles from Cape Town. The Sceptre, of 64 guns, together with a Danish 74, and about ten or twelve other vessels, were wrecked in Table Bay on the 5th of November, 1799; a period when a gale of wind from the north-west is never expected. To make up for the deficiency, that part of the year is attended with very stiff breezes from the south-east, which drive up the small gravel against one’s face with such force as to give very acute pain. These south-easters, as they are called, certainly produce excellent effects; cooling the air, and destroying an infinite number of insects.

Nature has been truly liberal in the profusion of flowers she has scattered throughout this part of Africa: the plains are covered with heaths, or hethers, of an exquisite fragrance, of boundless variety, and of the most delicate coloring and formation. The whole country, where the soil is not absolutely barren, teems with all that could enrich a pleasure garden; among these, the wild geraniums bear a large proportion: the plain beyond the camp at Wine-Burg absolutely resembling a rich carpet!

The opposite side of Table Bay, as seen from Cape Town, offers nothing pleasing to the eye; the coast appearing to be low, sandy, and barren, rising gradually into a range of hills, displaying little arborage, or verdure, which connect with those on the east side of False Bay, forming a part of the district called Hottentot Holland; wherein are partially interspersed small farms, that combine to supply Cape Town with provision.

The back of the Table Mountain, so called from its top appearing horizontal for several hundred yards, indeed, for near half a mile, is rugged, and of a most dismal hue. When the wind blows from the westward, the clouds come rolling down, perfectly concealing the mountain nearly to what appears to be its base. In that, however, the spectator is deceived; for a block-house erected on a part of the hill where the signal port stands, called the Lion’s Rump, and which is also apparently near the base, has been ascertained, by measurement, to equal the highest part of Gibraltar in elevation above the sea. From this, as well as from its being discernible at full thirty leagues distance, some idea may be formed of the stupendous height of the Table Mountain.

It appears probable, that but for that regulation which disqualifies persons who unnecessarily put into harbours deemed at certain periods unsafe, from recovering their insurances in case of loss, few ships would resort to False Bay. The distance, the badness of the road to Cape Town, the difficulty of procuring supplies and stores, with various other inconveniences, combine to give the preference to Table Bay, notwithstanding the reputed hazard. At Cape Town abundance of accommodation, of every description, may be had; whereas, at Seamon’s Bay, there are not more than two or three houses where persons of respectability could lodge. In saying this, I exempt the quarters allotted to the officers, which are very comfortable. After all that can be urged in favour of Seamon’s Bay, it is by no means a safe harbour; as the bones of several vessels, deep buried in the sandy beach, at the most retired part, which is a perfect cul de sac, sufficiently corroborate. There are, besides, sunken rocks near its mouth, on which several ships have struck: one, called the Anvil, from its flat surface, caused the loss of the Colebrook, Indiaman, some years ago. Another, designated the Bellows, from the perpetual roar it occasions, stands about two miles from the southernmost point of the Cape: it is not so dangerous as the others; being discernible full ten miles off, owing to the immense surfs, arising from a strong current towards the westward, which are perpetually breaking over it.

The Cape, considered as a colony, cannot be said, at present, to be valuable in any respect, except as an asylum for shipping, homeward or outward bound. The supplies requisite for the town are derived from the labors of a few boors, settled at some distance. Hence, provisions are by no means cheap; nor would they be so, even if the demands of St. Helena could be answered from any other quarter; since the indolence of the Dutch agriculturists would, it is to be feared, cause them to limit their operations in proportion as the consumption might decrease. It is, doubtless, owing to some such cause, that the greater part of the slaves are maintained upon a very black, heavy kind of bread, on which the fat of sheeps’ tails is smeared, as a substitute for butter; and that the lower classes of the population live in the most wretched manner. This should seem inexcusable, where thousands of acres of good soil lie unheeded, within such a moderate distance of the town as could scarcely fail to repay the ordinary expences of cultivation.

Although neither coal, nor peat, is found at the Cape, and the colony is dependant entirely on the arborage of the vicinity for fuel, it is very remarkable that little, or rather no, pains are taken to insure a supply. If we except a few plantations, made purely for ornament, at the several garden-houses within six or seven miles of Cape Town, we may in vain search for any symptoms of foresight in respect to the future supply of so indispensable an article. I recollect stating this to a gentleman, who seemed to be, in other respects, well informed of Cape affairs; but he silenced me with a remark which appeared unanswerable; taking for granted it was true. He said, ‘We have endeavored, ever since taking possession of the colony, to induce the Dutch to plant, and to till, the adjacent lands; but in vain: they prefer a scarcity, or at least a pretended one, on all occasions; because they think it distresses us, while, at the same time, they have an excellent plea for extorting the highest prices. Possessed of his waggon, and team, Mynheer can always supply his own wants at a certain rate; but if more is brought than is required for his own use, the surplus is spared to us for a sum which covers the whole expence: therefore, the dearer the article, the better for the waggon-master!’

I am free to confess, that where such hauteur, indolence, and extortion prevail, and that, too, very extensively and actively, against a protecting power, (for we really do not appear as conquerors in that quarter,) I should not hesitate to adopt such measures as might fully meet the exigency. If, in so doing, I should wound the feelings, or partially injure the rights, of the inhabitants, my argument would be brief, viz. ‘You created a necessity, and necessity has no law.’ Though, here and there, something resembling an European vehicle may be seen, the general instrument of conveyance, whether of families travelling, or taking the air, is a waggon, usually drawn by eight small, but fiery horses. One Hottentot commonly holds the reins of the pair next the wheels, while another, with an immense whip, not less in the whole than thirty feet long, manages the team with wondrous dexterity. In these waggons are commonly three benches, slung crosswise, on leather straps; each bench holding two persons. They are likewise provided with painted canvas tilts, made to take off at pleasure. The motion of such a waggon, while going over the rough part between the two capes, is ‘most horrible!’

The lumber-waggons are made in the rudest manner, generally with large truck wheels; some are boarded, or even thatched, above, and absolutely look like moving houses. Whether owing to the awkwardness of their construction, or to the badness of the roads, or to that incorrigible thing called custom, may not be easy to decide; though, possibly, their joint operation may be reasonably considered the cause; it is certainly true, that, even with six or eight pairs of rather stout, but high-boned, oxen, such a waggon rarely travels more than twelve or fifteen miles within the day. Nor is the plough a whit better managed. This stupendous machine, which appears calculated to turn up whole mountains in its progress, rarely gets through more than two roods daily, though drawn by six oxen, all in a line, and aided by three men; one of whom holds the plough stilt, (there being but one,) another drives with the usual enormous whip, and the third guides the leading ox.

The operation of thrashing is commonly performed in the open air, within an enclosed circle, about twenty yards in diameter, surrounded by a stone, or mud wall, about four feet high: the floor is made of clay and lime, rammed very hard. The sheaves being scattered within the circle, the farmer’s horses are turned in, and driven about by a slave, who, being provided with a whip, stands in the centre, and chases the cattle about; while two, or more, of his associates in bondage, stir the sheaves with forked sticks, in order that every part may be equally trodden by the galloping steeds. The winnowing is done in the same area; the horses being sent into another circle, to repeat their labors, while several men, first removing the straw, sweep the thrashings towards the windward side, and there toss it up, that the wind, which is commonly rather forcible, may blow the chaff to the lee side, while the corn falls nearly centrical; of course, as the latter goes with little further preparation to the mill, the flour may be supposed to contain no small portion of grit. The quantity of grain bruised, and left in the straw, must be considerable.

Few ships remain long enough to allow of passengers proceeding to the interior; where, however, they would find much to admire. At some of the farms they may be well accommodated, with the great advantage of finding their purses far less burthensome on their return! The famous vineyards of Stellenbosch are well worth seeing, as is the Salt Lake, which annually dries, leaving a bed of muriate of soda many miles in diameter, and of unknown depth! Surely, in parts accounted sterile, such a depôt of manure ought not to be overlooked. The hot baths, situate in a most romantic valley about forty miles from the Cape, demand the traveller’s attention. Whether he may proceed on horseback, (as I should recommend,) or in a waggon, a gun will be useful; both on account of the prodigious quantity of game, of every description, and as a defence against the numerous wild beasts which infest all the woody country beyond Hottentot Holland.

I have been induced to enter upon the foregoing details regarding the Cape, from the consideration of its being intimately attached to our Asiatic possessions; and because so large a portion of those who visit them, touch there; either in going to, or when returning from, India. The political importance of a point so advantageously situated, and having such an expanse of territory annexed, may, perhaps, at some convenient moment, become a subject for future discussion: in the mean while, as connected with the Cape, I shall treat of St. Helena.

This island is most singularly situated, being in the 16th degree of south latitude, and separated from the two continents of Africa and America by immense seas, in every part unfathomable: from the former it is about 1200 miles distant; from the latter about 1800. According to an analytic description, published in 1805, it appears tolerably certain, that Saint Helena owes its elevation above the sea to some great convulsion of nature; probably to, an earthquake: for it does not, like its neighbour Ascension, shew much remains of volcanic matter, neither does there appear any cavity at all resembling a crater. On the contrary, the whole island is composed of immense strata of rock, chiefly basaltic, which, from the variety of directions they assume, some declining one way, some another, while a few assume nearly a perpendicular tendency, may be supposed to have been disrupted, and ejected from the great sub-marine mass, by some tremendous earthquake. It would be difficult to form the least idea of the period when that event took place; nor, indeed, can it be altogether certified that this island was not coœval with the creation; since which it may have undergone various changes, from volcanic operations within the deep: the appearance of cinders without lava, and the regular intermixture of clay, especially of puzolana, with the rock, by such a gradual intercourse as to leave it undetermined where the one begins, and the other ceases, may be considered a lusus naturæ, and certainly tends to involve the origin of this now valuable island still more among the arcana of nature.

Situated in the heart of the trade winds, and covering so small a space, the whole island giving a girth of less than twenty-eight miles, it is not to be expected that much rain should fall upon it: such is the incertitude regarding a supply of water, that for three years in succession scarce a shower fell! This severe drought proved fatal to a very large quantity of cattle, which had, during the course of many preceding seasons, been raised by the industrious efforts of the inhabitants. Such were the chagrin, and the disappointment, felt on the occasion, that few have, since that period, turned their attention to the rearing of live stock in any quantity.

Water would never be wanting, if proper means were taken for its preservation; as almost every valley has a copious spring, the produce of which might be retained in tanks lined with the clay every where abounding. These tanks should be situated as near as possible to the spring heads; being dug in the form of a cone resting on its base, so as to leave but little surface for evaporation. By this means they might be kept in a continual state of overflow, from the upper tank or cone, to others below the level of its surface, at such distances as should be judged proper. The source of the spring supplying the stream that flows through James’s Valley, whence the shipping receive their water, cannot be less than six hundred feet above the level of the sea; therefore, admitting that a succession of tanks were to be made at such places as might be best suited to the retention of water, and to the supply of cattle, &c. it follows, that any quantity, beyond the actual consumption, might be upheld for times of scarcity.

It cannot fail to astonish my readers, that no means whatever have been taken to prevent even the stream above alluded to from being lost, when they are informed that it is computed, indeed, has been known to supply no less than two thousand tons in three days; and could have furnished a much greater quantity, had it been practicable to bring more boats, at the same moment, near enough to the wharf-cocks, to have the hoses laid into their respective casks. I have heard, that a computation of the spring was made, whence it was shewn to be equal to that conduit which supplies Liverpool. Now, the whole population of St. Helena are supposed to be rather under, than over, 3000; which, compared with Liverpool, at once displays the possibility of guarding against drought; though the lands should be stocked to their utmost with cattle. This, of itself, is sufficient reason for the adoption of some plan for preventing the escape of the surplus fluid; which ought to be retained as high up as possible; but when we consider, that, under such an improvement, agriculture would thrive in situations now deemed untenable by any farmer, merely from a want of water, there ought to be no hesitation in resorting to the proper means for securing a due supply throughout the island.

We should, at the same time, advert to the regular operations of nature, which ever conform to the changes produced, either by time or by art. The naturalist well knows, that in all well wooded islands, however distant from continents, the dews are remarkably heavy, and encourage vegetation to its utmost luxuriance: if, then, the soil could again be covered with arborage, (for, when first discovered, about three hundred years ago, the very summits of the hills were amply clothed with trees, of which some were peculiar to the island,) it is obvious, that, even without the aid of irrigation, an abundance of perpetual pasturage might be found. In that case, every acre might have its inhabitant; whereas, at this day, computing the whole area to measure, according to a very accurate survey, about 30,300 acres, and the population to be 3000; it should seem evident, that, although there is not more than one inhabitant to every ten acres, at least four-fifths of their provision are drawn from other countries.

The author of the ‘Description of St. Helena,’ quotes some anecdotes which shew the narrow views of those persons who have never quitted the island. In one instance, ‘a top-mast, or other spar, is reserved as a great acquisition, to be sold at an immense profit to some vessel in distress:’ in another, the author states his having been asked, ‘if the arrival of the India fleet did not make London very gay!’

In these, we certainly recognise the language of insulated ignorance; but when the author makes a jest of that exclamation of a native, who, in walking with him over a spot luxuriantly verdant, declared, that ‘if the whole island were like that part, it would be the richest spot in the world;’ the joke does not fit. I am well aware of the hyperbole of such an enthusiastic expression; but, from what appeared at the Government House, where, under the fostering care of Colonel Brooke, the late governor, wonderful improvements had been affected, especially in the culture of exotics; and having witnessed the great perfection to which vegetables had been raised, on a farm in the occupation of the late Major Edward Smyth, of the artillery; as well as the plantations upheld, under most inauspicious circumstances, by the late Deputy Governor Lieutenant-Colonel Robson: I feel no hesitation in avowing an opinion, that the now dreary, bleak, uncouth summits of St. Helena, might become both ornamental and useful; while the lower parts should teem with corn, wine, and oil.

In a climate where no hurricanes destroy the crops, where the medium temperature is about 54°, where health and longevity seem to hold their court, and where there exist the greatest essentials towards culture, (viz. clay, lime-stone, sand, and manure, in the greatest abundance,) I really cannot see why this now neglected, and comparatively desolate, island, should not become a perfect paradise! That health should be a common blessing among the natives, does not appear wonderful; because they have not the means of excess, at least not in drinking; for wine, and spirits, are most exorbitantly dear. I happened to be at Governor Brooke’s on New Year’s Day, 1800, when intelligence was brought that the whole of the troops were plunged into the deepest affliction, by the loss of a cask of rum, served from the stores as the usual basis of annual festivity: in rolling up towards the barracks, the cask had burst, and spilled every drop of its precious contents. This, in any other situation, would not have given a moment’s uneasiness; the deficiency might have been easily made up: but, at St. Helena, where the most sparing economy, in regard to all articles of subsistence, is indispensably necessary, and where no private suttlers could fill up the blank, it was really a most uncomfortable circumstance!

It cannot be expected, after the above detail, that provision should be cheap, or abundant: so far the reverse, that persons of all ranks daily receive their rations from the stores, as indispensable towards their existence. Hence, sheep, poultry, flour, &c. are rarely procurable, in any quantity, for the supply of the homeward-bound shipping; which, being sometimes detained for months, waiting for convoy, occasions their passengers to be put to considerable expence, without deriving proportionate comfort; valetudinarians being the only strangers, who, in such cases, experience the smallest benefit from the detention.

It would be difficult to state the expences incident to residence at any of those houses where lodgings are let: which includes all, excepting about half a dozen of the seniors on the island: the rates vary according to the demand at the moment, or the expectation of early arrivals. It may be concluded, that cheapness neither is, nor can be, the characteristic of James Town, when I observe, that, merely for the use of an apartment, such as nothing but the change of scene would have induced me to occupy, wherein I occasionally slept on a truck-bed, whereof the whole apparatus might safely have been sent to the paper mills, the charge made was twelve shillings daily, or rather nightly; for I never ate a meal in the house. Let it not be understood that I speak this in derogation of the people: far otherwise; I experienced all the civility they had the opportunity of shewing, and I really believe they regretted their want of means to render my slumbers more refreshing.

Their exertions might, perhaps, have obtained me a more comfortable lodging, but there were other matters far beyond their power to remedy: among these may be noticed the myriads of cock-roaches, (or blatta gigantea,) which at night crawled about the bed; offending not only by the very unpleasant sensations produced by their claws, but by their peculiarly nauseous scent. As for rats, of no small breed, nor, indeed, confined to one species, they made as free, at all hours, as though they had paid for their lodging, and absolutely seemed to approach with perfect indifference: their gallopings, not only within the walls, but over me as I slept, together with some very unceremonious pulls at my hair, (for I then used powder,) at length compelled me to sleep, when opportunity offered, on board the vessel, wherein our stock of these devastators, though not insignificant, was considerably less numerous, and far more reserved. We had, however, abundance of cock-roaches, about two inches in length, and an inch broad; but, owing to the pains taken to catch them by means of saucers filled with oil, of which they are extremely fond, their numbers were greatly reduced; but we could never hope for their extirpation, as every crevice afforded them shelter, and the opportunity of depositing their eggs in safety.

It may be asked why I did not move to some other house? In reply thereto, it will be only necessary to observe, that I was recommended to the good folks, or they to me, (I forget which) by a gentleman to whose urbanity and kindness I was under much obligation: besides, I was daily in hopes of quitting the island; therefore judged it most expedient to remain where I was, lest I might, by avoiding Scylla, stumble upon Charybdis. There are one or two shops in James Town, where goods of various descriptions are sold. I had occasion to buy a hat, for which I paid ten dollars, and on my arrival in England found that it could never have stood the exporter in more than twelve shillings, even under a salt-water invoice. But it was the best that was for sale, and I was compelled to the purchase.

Such ships as have touched at the Cape, on their return from India, are usually well stocked with every species of provision, and even import their own fuel; according to existing regulations: were they to be supplied with that article, or indeed with any other, to much extent, the distress occasioned to the inhabitants would be deplorable. This deficiency of fuel is occasioned, at present, by the number of wild goats, every where secreting themselves among the crags; during the night time they descend to the plantations, and to the fields, cropping every thing within their reach. Until a war of extermination, as is now proposed, be carried on against these destructive animals, it will be useless to attempt planting, at least on such a scale as should prove beneficial to the inhabitants. It may justly be supposed, that no weak measures could produce so desirable a result; but it is reasonable to conclude, that, if a party of soldiers were to be posted daily on those superior points whence the goats could be seen and alarmed; and if a number of half-bred greyhounds were to be kept to run them down, much might be done in the course of a few years; especially if a reward were given for every goat destroyed, by whatever means.

Yams and potatoes are cultivated in tolerable quantities on various parts of the island; but the former will not grow except in very choice situations, such as vallies through which streams flow. In Major Smyth’s grounds, an immense variety of our esculents were to be seen, growing luxuriantly: I recollect his pointing out to me a peculiarity regarding the leek, and the onion, in both which he had been frequently disappointed, after planting them to stand for seed. As an experiment which did not promise success, he sowed the little seed vessels which form the globular head of the stems; and found, that, by so doing, he could insure a regular, and very rapid succession. He cut off the heads, and separated the capsules, when they were in their green state, but rather inclining to maturity.

Having undoubted proof of the readiness with which many plants, indigenous to the cold, as well as to the hot, regions, may be naturalized at St. Helena, it must excite some surprise to be informed, that no public measures have yet been taken to stock the island with a variety of quick-growing and useful trees; which, being collected on favorable spots, might serve as the depôt for future supplies. The various species of palms thrive amazingly, as does the peepul; of which, for a long time, there was only one in the island, and no person could tell whence it came!

It seems curious, that peaches should thrive so luxuriantly, and acquire such an admirable flavor, notwithstanding the dryness of the atmosphere: formerly, this fruit was in such abundance, that large quantities used to be given to the hogs. Unhappily, an insect, only to be distinguished by the aid of glasses, was imported with some slips from the Constantia vines: these attacked the peach trees, devouring their bark, and destroying at least nine-tenths of their number. It is said, that every means have been tried to annihilate these minute plunderers, or to deter them from their wonted attacks, but without effect. I recollect, that, about twenty years ago, a premium was given by some association, (probably the society for the encouragement of arts,) to a person who discovered a means of ridding trees from this description of clustering insects. It was very simple; and was effected by boring holes with a gimlet, obliquely downwards, into the body of the trunk, near the ground, and filling them with quicksilver; after which the holes were closed by means of pitch, or plugs of wood. As possibly this has never been essayed at St. Helena, I give it a place under the hope of its proving useful: it is, however, said to render evergreens deciduous.

The teak, and poon trees, both of which are of important service in naval architecture, might certainly be raised to great size in St. Helena. The burghut, or banian tree, might also thrive; but I should except against it as requiring too much nourishment, and exhausting the soil, without being any wise useful as timber. The tamarind tree, though it supplies a large proportion of fruit, has this objection against it, that it is peculiarly unfriendly to all others in its vicinity: no grass will grow under it; and persons who sleep beneath its shelter, or within its influence, are subjected to fevers: its timber is substantial, being hard and heavy, but by no means strong, on account of its tendency to rive, and to start into fissures; especially at those knots whence boughs have been thrown out. The bamboo may be cultivated to very great advantage: it grows, throughout India, on the most elevated situations, and on spots where scarcely a handful of soil is to be found in the vicinity of its roots. The value of this reed, (for it is nothing more, though it reaches to the height of seventy feet, and frequently measures from five to six inches in diameter,) would be incalculable, were it applied merely to making fences; which, in such a climate, would be very durable. An invaluable acquisition would be obtained from its more general culture, especially as it is of very quick growth. But the most important advantages would certainly attend the formation of vine-yards, in such parts as might, by their aspect and soil, be best suited to the purpose. The temperature of the climate is highly favorable, the thermometer averaging, during the summer season, from 76° to 79° and 80°, and rarely falling below 54°. That great enemy to grapes, rain, is not much to be dreaded; though it cannot be doubted, that in proportion as vegetation should be increased by assiduous planting, and by preserving due supplies of water for the upper levels, more dew and more rain would fall: however, not to such excess as to ruin the vine-yards.

Coffee has been found to thrive here; but I much doubt whether it would be an object to cultivate that which is so abundant throughout the West Indies, and which can be so amply supplied from countries, whence it comes as a return for our own manufactures.

The great, at least the primary, object should be to add to the resources of the present inhabitants, and gradually to effect such an excess of provision, of their own raising, as should allow of liberal assistance being given to such ships as might touch at the island; especially to vessels from the South Seas, whither numbers of our whalers now resort, and to such as might, either intentionally, or accidentally, miss the Cape. This may certainly be effected, by active perseverance in a well arranged plan; the difficulties are really few, and the means, of remedy certainly within our power. After maturely weighing the pros and cons, no doubt remains in my mind, that, in the course of fifteen or twenty years, St. Helena would not only cease to be a burthen on the parent state; but that it must be able to afford a large portion of its produce to the accommodation of all shipping visiting its roads.

This island cannot boast of a harbour; nor are its Roads so extensive as to admit a very numerous fleet, owing to the small extent of the bank on which ships cast anchor; generally in from six to fifteen fathoms. After the latter depth, the bank falls off so suddenly as to become unfathomable, within a few hundred yards, rendering it necessary to lay in, as close as the surf admits, probably about two cable’s length from the beach. But it is not very easy to get so near in the first instance, on account of a strong current that sets to the north, and the necessity for being close hauled to meet the wind which comes down James’s Valley. It is best to anchor any where about twelve fathoms, and, when the wind lulls, to warp into a better berth.

There is but one landing place, which lies to the left of a shallow inflexion, forming a small bay opposite the sea-line; built nearly on a level with the water, and mounting a very heavy battery, properly equipped for heating shot, and always kept in readiness for service. Not that it would be possible for an enemy to surprize the island, unless the most shameful inattention might prevail in every quarter. All vessels must approach on the south-east; where there are guards, and telegraphs, whereby notice is given full four hours before the northernmost point can be rounded. This, of course, alludes to the day; but, so clear is the atmosphere in general, that even during the night a ship would be discerned at many miles distance.

After passing the southernmost points, it is necessary to keep well in with the shore, which is every where composed of immense masses of rock, without any inlet, or means of disembarkation; even if the tremendous surf should not impede. Here the coast is guarded, or rather watched, by various detachments, stationed at commanding points; where strong batteries are mounted, and the means of communicating intelligence, in the most rapid manner, at hand.

The last battery to be passed, previous to casting anchor, is called Munden’s, and stands immediately between the watering, or landing-place, and a small bay, in which, it is recorded, that a landing was once effected during the night: from my own observation, having often gone in a boat to the edge of the surf at that part to fish, I should think it by no means easy to get ashore in any manner, much more as an armed body intending to capture the island. But, whatever may have been effected in former times, that quarter seems now so well guarded as to leave no cause for apprehension, of a surprize at least: nor does there appear the smallest danger of a landing being effected at the watering place; where a very small party might oppose the boats of a whole fleet. The swell is here very great, rendering it a matter of some hazard when jumping into, or out of, a boat; besides, only one boat can come to at a time, in a position suitable to hostile purposes; and it is not to be supposed, that the battery above, or that on the landing-place, or the sea-line, or the works on Ladder Hill, would be silent upon such an occasion. Certain destruction awaits every person who falls into the water in this part; where the sharks are as numerous as they are ravenous. The wall of the wharf is perpendicular, and built on a rock, under which is a tremendous abyss.

The whole of the northern part is composed of rocks naturally scarped in a rugged manner, so as rather to hang over, than to retire from the sea; rising every where from 800 to 2000 feet, and more. Yet, wonderful as it may seem, with such force does the surf break on this leeward side of the island, that the spray, or mist, may be seen constantly ascending, like clouds of smoke, nearly to the summits of the mountains. The residue of the coast is equally bold, and inaccessible; except at a part called Sandy Bay, to the southward. There the shore is nearly flat for some distance, but is interspersed with rocks, and guarded by reefs of breakers, which project some distance, and totally obviate the means of attack. If, however, a landing were to be effected, the guns kept in readiness, in masked batteries on the surrounding heights, would soon defeat the enemy’s purpose.

On account of the difficulty of approach, the several ships take their water in regular rotation, unless when a vessel is under despatch; in which case her boats have the preference. The mode of receiving water is certainly suited to the situation; but is very tedious. The butts being carried in the long-boats to the edge of the wharf, are there filled by means of leathern hoses, of which the ends severally attach to cocks on the pipes that conduct the water to that part. With the upmost assiduity, I should suppose that not more than forty or fifty butts could be supplied to any one long-boat within the course of the day, notwithstanding the shipping lies so close; but, by a regular succession of boats, full 1000 butts might be received.

After landing, the way leads under a very high hill on the left, to the sea gate; within which is a barrier that secures the flank of the sea-line, and defends the road into the town; it is terminated by a gate, where the main guard is posted.

The town is small, and by no means irregular; the houses very low, generally consisting of two and three floors, in all which there are abundance of windows, glazed with small panes, which, on the whole, are not very sightly. The valley, in which James Town is situated, is very narrow, and, in the hot season, extremely sultry. On the right is Ladder Hill, where a very heavy battery is mounted, both of guns and mortars, effectually commanding the road, and the valley, for a great distance. This hill is so steep, that it is ascended only by means of traverses cut out of its side, and enclosed with a parapet sufficient to prevent accidents. The soil is, however, so replete with large loose stones, as to occasion frequent mischiefs to the houses below; of which some have been greatly damaged by the fall of rubbish from above. I imagine, that the ascent, by the road, cannot measure less than a mile; and, that the perpendicular height of Ladder Hill, above the level of the sea, must be full 600 yards.

Major Rennell states the various eminences to be as follow.

This very elevated part, namely, Ladder Hill, is nevertheless commanded by several small batteries, judiciously situated, which, in their turn, are subject to the fire of the works at High Knoll, built under the auspices of Colonel Brooke, and under the immediate direction of Major Smyth. This little fortification seems to be the dernier resort of the garrison, of which it might hold about two hundred in the several bomb-proofs. It has a small arsenal, reservoir, magazine, a well of immense depth, cut through the rock with great difficulty, and, exclusive of its outworks, which are peculiarly compact, has a central block-house, mounting several pieces of heavy ordnance. The site of this citadel is shewn to be full 1960 feet above the level of the sea: the highest peak in the island is about 2700; but it is too remote to have any effect on the citadel.

The force kept up at St. Helena is, nominally, a battalion of infantry, and four companies of artillery; but I doubt whether, at any time, more than 700 men could be mustered: that number is barely equal to the defence of the several outposts, and to manning the sea-line, Ladder Hill, and the citadel. It is, fortunately, a very healthy spot, and the hospitals are rarely known to contain more than four men in the hundred.

The surrounding ocean supplies abundance of fish; Mr. Brooke describes no less than seventy-six kinds, though few are much esteemed. From the stern of a ship, mackarel, of a small size, together with gar-fish, plaice, a kind of cod, and a very fine species of gurnet, may be caught. The best bait for these is a piece of raw albacore. Chance supplied us with a very excellent stock of craw-fish: under the idea of catching some small sharks, we made a net of spun-yarn, and slung it to a butt-hoop. A few bones of salt beef were tied within for a bait. This we lowered down at night, and occasionally drew up very gently to the surface, the depth being about ten or eleven fathoms. We caught no sharks, but frequently found two or three very fine craw-fishes, of that sort called stumps.

I will now proceed with the regular order of my design, and observe that, if a ship is not to touch at the Cape outward bound, especially when that port is in possession of an enemy, or that hostile cruisers are known to infest the southern coast of Africa, it is not uncommon to run down to the latitude of 38° or 40°, thereby to avoid those dangers, and to get beyond the influence of the current, which sets to the westward at the rate of full three miles per hour. Experience has proved, that, by taking such a course, the voyage has been quicker than when the land has been kept in sight. When the Cape is thus avoided, it will probably be necessary to proceed by the inner passage to the island of Johanna. This is supposed to be the best route that can be followed, by such as are bound to Bombay; though the number of shoals, and of rocks, scattered through the Mozambique Channel, which separates Madagascar from the Main, subjects it to some disrepute. These are, in a measure, counterbalanced during war time, by the danger attendant upon an approach to the island of Mauritius; whence the French have always fitted out a number of privateers, that have done inconceivable mischief among our shipping in the Indian Seas.

A few vessels touch at St. Augustine’s Bay, on the west coast of Madagascar; but the treacherous disposition of the natives is a great objection, and causes the generality to pass on to Johanna, which is the only island of the Comora cluster we have been in the habit of visiting. The strong current setting round its southern extremity, occasions vessels to keep close to the shore as they approach Saddle Island, which, at low water, is connected with Johanna by a ridge of sand, whereon the Huntingdon Indiaman was lost about forty years back, in attempting to pass, without going round Saddle Island; which derives its name from the appearance it bears, when viewed at a certain distance. The whole coast, from the southern point to the bay where the town is situated, presents, with very little exception, a bold shore, divested of those dangerous reefs which render Mohillah, and others of its neighbours, difficult of access. The country is extremely mountainous; in some parts abounding with cocoa and other trees: wild goats are very numerous; but, being much in request among the natives, are very shy, and, in general, retire to the most rugged eminences. To the left of the town, about two miles distant, a long reef of black rocks encloses a bay, of which the beach is covered with a fine sand, shelving very gradually, and bearing a strong resemblance to that of Weymouth.

The houses in the villages on the coast are rather mean, though appertaining to persons who have ridiculously assumed European titles of eminence. The island swarms with ‘Prince Ruperts,’ ‘Prince Eugenes,’ Dukes, Marquises, and Lords, all of whom are mean and knavish to an extreme. The common form of building consists of a long barn-like apartment, entered by a low door in middle of its length, and having another opposite thereto at the back, which leads to the most dirty out-offices that can be imagined; wherein the culinary operations, &c. are carried on. In the dwellings of those who admit lodgers, which may be said to include half the town, the places for sleeping, for I cannot call them bed-places, are raised, towards the two gable-ends, to the height of full six feet; and, in some, are parted off by a curtain of coarse chintz, or other cloth. These recesses are from three to five feet in width, and may be ten or twelve feet long; according to the breadth of the house. The ascent to them is formed by several very broad stairs, ordinarily covered with matting made of cocoa-tree leaves, or, in a few, with carpets. Each step is considered as accommodation for two persons to repose upon, feet to feet: in most instances, however, the steps are not long enough to allow more than one person to lie down. This theatrical arrangement is by no means displeasing, nor is it attended with so much inconvenience as would be the case were the whole upon a level. The middle of the room is set apart for meals, usually served on tables of a wretched construction; the guests sitting, as well as they can, upon little stools, or eventually reclining on the matted floor against the lower steps; which, by the by, is not only the most comfortable, but, among the natives, is considered to be the most decorous, mode.

The inhabitants of this island, which lies in 12° south, and 45° east, are chiefly descendants of some Arabs who settled here about two centuries ago. Its name is, properly, Hinzuan, from which we have, by a series of corruptions, contrived to affix the present designation. Most of the inhabitants who are not of Arabian descent, are slaves, purchased for a mere trifle at Madagascar and Mozambique, with which places some intercourse is preserved; though the Johanna marine seems but ill suited to crossing even that narrow sea, which separates it from either Cape Ambro, or the opposite coast of Mozambique. The number of vessels called war-boats, may amount to about twenty, each capable of carrying two hundred men. These barks, which are entirely open, are usually furnished with an immense number of paddles, and oars, which, aided by a large square-sail, cause them to make good way through the water. In such a temperate climate, where the wind always blows from the south-west, and where, with the exception of those hurricanes peculiar, to the higher latitudes, fair weather prevails during the whole year, such a naval armament may prove adequate to the ordinary purposes of its construction.

All warfare with any of the neighbouring islands, is supported by voluntary contributions; each person of consequence taking with him provisions, and arms, for his respective adherents, or slaves. The revenues are collected from about two hundred villages; but the three principal towns are exempted from any contribution beyond the fortieth part of their moveable property; which all, of whatever degree, pay annually to the Mufti, or head of their church.

The king resides at the large and populous village of Domoni, where his whole train of artillery, consisting of a condemned six-pounder, is kept in great state! The natives are, in some degree, conversant in the use of small-arms; these, with cutlasses, spears of immense length, and bows and arrows, (the latter chiefly pointed with fish-bone, or flint,) compose their stock of military implements. Their coast being generally so safe, little skill is required to bring a vessel into a safe berth; but it is usual to take on board a pilot, who is known by the name of ‘Purser Jack.’ This copper-colored knave never fails to put off, so soon as any vessel is seen on its way from Saddle Island, and to offer his services, which are supposed to be well requited by a few dollars.

It is worthy of remark, that, on account of the rapidity of the current, which sets off to sea round the black rocks, and would infallibly prevent any vessel from reaching an anchorage, all ships pass to the southern extremity, near Saddle Island, and proceed with a fair wind along the coast. But it is not safe to carry too much sail while under the shore; as violent gusts come down between the mountains, in the most abrupt manner.

The population of Johanna must be rather considerable: perhaps it were not too much to estimate it at ninety, or a hundred, thousands; including all ranks and ages: the towns are large and extremely populous. The Mahomedan religion prevails, though but very few sacred edifices, worthy of notice, are to be found on the island; the principal one, which does not seem to have cost any great sum, being a mosque, built by Halimah, a queen from whom the present king is descended, situated near the landing place, in the town of Matsamudo. Nevertheless the priests are sufficiently numerous; and, as in most countries, enjoy an excellent share of the earth’s produce.

The areca-nut, which grows wild all over the island, but especially on its borders, is here chewed with shell-lime, as practised throughout the East: wild pine-apples, plantains, and the greatest variety of tropical fruits, are scattered over mountains exhibiting a verdure of peculiar richness, and presenting, on the aggregate, one of the richest scenes imaginable. Not a horse is to be seen on the island; but plenty of excellent cattle thrive uncommonly on the rich pastures of the vallies; through most of which streams of the purest water, every where broken by rocks, or gliding over shallow beds of gravelly sand, pursue their eager course. It is rather peculiar, that, among other poultry, the Guinea fowl should abound; thousands may be seen in a wild state, if it may be so termed, when, by throwing a handful of grain at your feet, all will instantly approach to participate of the bounty.

Musquitoes are here exceedingly troublesome, and attack the plethoric mariner with avidity. It is said, that no snakes, or other venomous reptiles, are to be found at Johanna; but, in exchange for that blessing, they are plentifully supplied with bugs. The only vehicle known in the island consists of a machine, termed a palanquin; but which is, in fact, nothing but a litter made of clumsy net-work on a rough frame, and borne by four men, who each take an end of the two side-poles of bamboo on their shoulder. This splendid piece of ingenuity is appropriated solely to the conveyance of his majesty, and of such nobles, and European, or Arabian visitors, as may obtain permission to visit him at Domoni.

Angling is little understood at Johanna, yet large quantities[quantities] of good fish are occasionally to be had. These are either taken by night lines, or are speared by persons standing at the heads of canoes, who, with wondrous dexterity, strike such fishes as approach the surface. This practice, common throughout uncivilized countries, is in great perfection among the Nicobar Islands.

I make no doubt, that, if proper means were used, an excellent supply of stumps might be obtained. What I have said on this subject, when describing St. Helena, would, most probably, be found equally efficacious in many other insulated situations, under warm parallels. On the shoals which lie within the channel of Mozambique, immense numbers of cowries, called by us ‘Blackamoors’ teeth,’ are dredged up: these being current as money in most parts of India, are exchanged, together with live oxen, for arms and ammunition, hatchets, knives, nails, &c.

The oriental practice of dying the hands and feet red, by means of the hinna, which here glows wild in the utmost luxuriance, prevails throughout the island; especially among the females, who color their lips and gums black, with a peculiar preparation, similar to the missy of Hindustan, in order to make their teeth appear to advantage! Although the men are extremely jealous, the women of the lower class are allowed to walk the streets, provided they wear veils. We must not by that word suppose that any particular part of their dress is so termed, or separately made for that purpose: the only mode of concealing the face consists in drawing the cloth, or sheet, which is thrown over the head, so as to cause its meeting forward, leaving a very narrow opening to enable the wearer to see her way.

With respect to the mercantile operations of the Johanna people, I cannot afford a clearer idea than attends the description given by Alwi, a man of some consequence on the island, to Sir William Jones, who has recorded it in the following words. He said, ‘His country was poor, and produced few articles of trade; but if they could get money, they might easily procure foreign commodities, and exchange them advantageously with their neighbours in the islands, and on the continent. Thus, with a little money,’ said he, ‘we purchase muskets, powder, ball, cutlasses, knives, cloths, raw cotton, and other articles brought from Bombay; and with these we trade to Madagascar for the natural produce of that country, or for dollars, with which the French buy cattle, honey, butter, and so forth, in that island. With gold, which we receive from your ships, we can procure elephants’ teeth from the natives of Mozambique; who barter them also for bars of iron, and ammunition; while the Portuguese in that country give us various kinds of cloths, in exchange for our commodities. These cloths we dispose of lucratively in the three neighbouring islands; whence we bring rice, cattle, a kind of bread-fruit, which grows in Comora, and slaves; which we buy also at other places where we trade: all this traffic we carry on in our own vessels.’

The foregoing should evince, that, under an effective government, for the present may be deemed a mere toleration of royalty, the island of Johanna might become important among its neighbours; and, so long as European vessels should continue to touch there for refreshments, might, carry on a brisk trade. Yet the total want of any thing like a harbour, must inevitably prove a great drawback on its prosperity. While there, our ship was driven by a sudden squall, issuing from between two immense mountains, from her anchorage, though she had two anchors out, and rode within a short half mile of the beach; and this, too, in remarkably clear weather.

The mode of killing whales in the Mozambique Channel, and by the Africans all along their south-east coast, is extremely simple; it shews how much may be effected by perseverance; and affords, indeed, an admirable moral, together with no insignificant satire upon the great expence to which Europeans, engaged in that pursuit, put themselves, without becoming more certain of success.

When a whale is seen within a moderate distance of the shore, basking, as they often do for hours together, with little intermission, during the heat of the day, the fishermen put off in their canoes, which are excavated from large trees, and equipped with out-riggers on each side. Generally, each canoe carries from four to six persons; but those which are intended to approach the whale, give over their crew, with the exception of one spearsman, and one paddler, to the other canoes.

The paddler urges his canoe very gently, until within about eight or ten yards of the whale; sidling up with extreme caution so as to be parallel with its shoulders; this is done to avoid that lash of the tail which the fish invariably gives, as he plunges downwards, on feeling the spear enter his flesh. The weapons used on this occasion are about five feet long, extremely elastic, and loaded at each end with iron or lead; whereby not only the impetus is encreased, but the vibration, occasioned by the opposite weights, causes the point, which is of iron, very acute and barbed, to wriggle deeper into the flesh. Previous to striking, the head of the canoe is turned towards the whale, and a slight retrocessive motion is given; so that, at the very moment when the spear is delivered, the paddler may, by a sudden exertion, pull further away, and avoid the danger. It sometimes happens, that the spearsman is thrown from his station into the water, by the sudden motion of the boat opposed to his own action; being invariably expert swimmers, such an accident is not in the least regarded. After sinking to a great depth, the whale rises again to the surface, perhaps a mile off, where other boats are waiting to repeat the attack; by a succession of which he is, ordinarily in the space of an hour, so completely worn out, as to float without the power of resistance, when a long spear, pushed through between his ribs, speedily terminates the struggle.

The whale being dead, all the canoes join their efforts to tow the carcase towards the shore; where, upon some sandy part, a division is made of the spoil; each of the crews cutting away with hatchets and cutlasses, as much of the blubber as they can expend. The residue is sold, or exchanged for other articles of consumption, dress, &c. to the inhabitants of the neighbouring towns: the whale-bone is reserved for sale to European traders; the ribs serve for the couples of houses, or rather cabins; and the joints of the vertebræ, after being neatly trimmed at the sides, and at one end, make very comfortable stools; of which, however, the strong, rank scent, retained for many months, would prove highly offensive to any but persons who consider the blubber, after the oil has been fried, and pressed out, to be a delicate morceau!

The operation of cutting away the adipose parts; which come off in immense lumps, of from eight inches to a foot, or fifteen inches in depth, is rather laborious; it is likewise attended with the danger of attacks from an immense number of sharks, that instinctively follow the carcase; and, so soon as it is hewn open, seize whatever falls from it with the most ferocious avidity. Hence, the fishermen are obliged to be extremely careful not to expose their limbs, by allowing them to dangle in the water: such of the crews as fall overboard, are usually snapped up by their greedy competitors; which, it is said, are known in these parts to grow to the enormous length of thirty feet!

It has often occurred to me, that, in lieu of casting loose the remains of whales, after cutting away the blubber, as our fishermen usually do, an immense quantity of ammonia might be extracted, were the skeletons to be towed to the shore, and there to be applied to that purpose. Fuel is rarely wanting, and there being invariably sufficient crews on board our whale-ships, which cannot be always employed, it should seem that much advantage might thus arise, with little or no expence: the price of ammonia is very high, but if it could be lowered, immense quantities would be consumed. It is to be remarked, that this valuable alkali has not hitherto been put under that course of experiments to which it certainly would be subjected, did the price not stand in the way of its use on a large scale: the following qualities, as stated in the invaluable Dispensary given to the public by Dr. Andrew Duncan, may plead in apology for my digressing so far on a subject, not apparently connected with my prospectus; but which, considered philosophically, is, by no means, irrelevant thereto.

Dr. Duncan states, that, ‘ammonia does not dissolve animal substances; it extinguishes flame; colors vegetable-blues green; is decomposed by being transmitted through a red hot tube, and, by the electric spark, into its constituent gases, and by oxygen, and atmosphoric air at a red heat; by oxy-muriatic acid, it is converted into water and hydrogen-gas. It is absorbed, without change, by porous bodies; it dissolves sulphur and phosphorus; and combines readily with water, in all its states. Ammonia combines with the acids, forming neutral salts. It is formed during the putrefactive fermentation; and is commonly classed among the alkalies.’ My readers will see, at once, how wide a field is open for speculation!

After quitting Johanna, which is the only island, in that cluster, whither European vessels ever intentionally resort, such as may be bound to Bombay usually make the great peninsula somewhere about Anjengo, pursuing their course up the western, or Malabar side; while those proceeding to Coast and Bay, (i.e. Madras and Bengal,) endeavor to get a sight of Dondra-Head, which determines both their latitude, and their longitude; thence they pass round the eastern side of the island of Ceylon, of which the shore is sufficiently bold to allow their keeping within two or three miles of the land with perfect safety, in regard to reefs or shoals; but this quarter being extremely subject to violent gales, that come on rather suddenly, or, at least, without much notice, and are known by the name of ‘white squalls,’ it is generally considered most prudent to keep a good offing. These white squalls invariably take place when the sky is free from clouds; but may sometimes be distinguished, as they approach, by the white spray raised from the water by the violence of the wind: so soon as that is discovered, all the small sails should be taken in, and the ship rendered as compact above as time may admit. The warning spray is too frequently unnoticed; and, even when perceived, is, for the most part, too close at hand to admit of much preparation. This insidious danger extends, more or less, from the south end of Madagascar up to the latitude of Tranquebar, being most prevalent to the southward of the Line, where the south-west trade wind prevails at all times.

The island of Ceylon has been adopted as a royal possession, in the government of which the Company have no share whatever. The whole of the civil establishment are appointed by the king; and the military receive their commissions from the secretary at war, independent of the Company’s chartered establishment. It generally happens, however, that some of the Madras battalions are on duty in the island; which has always been in a most perturbed state, especially since it came under our dominion. It is rather unusual for the Company’s ships to touch here, except when sent to Columbo with stores, or calling there on their way home for cargoes and passengers. None but very small vessels can pass between Ceylon and the Main, notwithstanding the great width of the channel, on account of that immense reef, intermixed with shoals, stretching across its northern part. This reef, called ‘Adam’s Bridge,’ is supposed to be formed by the summits of mountains, that, by some dreadful convulsion, were sunk below those waters, between which they originally formed a stupendous isthmus, like that of Darien, connecting Ceylon with the continent.

Notwithstanding what has been said by many authors on the subject of ‘spicy gales,’ the expectation of meeting with perfumed breezes in this quarter should not be too much encouraged. After coasting the whole length, from Dondra-Head to Point Pedro, not one puff, conveying the idea of proximate ambrosia, ever reached my nose. It must, at the same time, be understood, that a certain terraceous scent, something like that resulting from rain in dusty weather, generally prevails within a certain distance of a windward shore; particularly where the country is well wooded.

After passing to the northward of Ceylon, the navigation becomes more difficult; there being immense shoals stretching, in various directions, all the way from Tranquebar up to the mouths of the Ganges. It is generally opposite some short interval between these dangerous shallows, that our principal settlements are situated. Thus, Tranquebar, Pondicherry, Cuddalore, Negapatam, and some others, to the southward of Madras, enjoy a partial benefit in that instance; but, to the northward, our principal sea-ports are under very considerable disadvantages, arising from the great distance at which all vessels, with the exception of very small coasters, are obliged to lay out in an open road, subject to the fury of storms, and to the depredations of privateers, which seldom fail to take advantage of these localities, whenever the season may allow them to visit our shores.

The shallows may easily be distinguished at a considerable distance: being composed of light, shifting sand, and acted upon by a strong current, the water above them appears discolored; assuming a dun, or yellow hue, sufficiently contrasted with the deeper parts, to enable the eye at once to trace their respective limits.

Madras Roads being exempt from shoals, for some miles on either side, are entered without a pilot; ships in general anchoring off the fort, in from six to ten fathoms; the bottom a firm sand. The surf is here, at all times, rather high; but when a south-west, or westerly wind, prevails, becomes so tremendous as to debar all communication with the shipping. From the beginning of October to the middle of January, the flag-staff is struck, as a signal to vessels that no insurance is payable on account of such losses as may happen during that period, which is held to be replete with danger. So great is the apprehension entertained of the perils attendant upon a continuance on the Coromandel coast during that monsoon, that even our ships of war retire from the protection of such trade as may be carried on by adventurous individuals, and seek an asylum in some well-sheltered port, such as Trincomalee.

Before we obtained possession of that admirable harbour, our fleets were under the necessity of going round annually to Bombay; there they employed their crews in putting the respective ships into complete order, against the ensuing season; whatever vessels required substantial repairs, being taken into dock. In the mean while, the enemy’s fleet went to the Mauritius, which could be easily reached at any season; and whence they could return full a month before our’s could get back from the Malabar coast. The serious losses occasioned, both to the Company, and to private traders, by such management, (which then appeared to be inevitable, though not so in reality, since Bengal could have received and repaired them,) rendered it a desideratum to obtain some port, not far removed from our principal settlements. The fortune of war once put us in possession of Trincomalee; but, somehow or other, it was re-taken: as we have now command over the whole of Ceylon, it is to be hoped we shall have the wit to keep it.

The construction of keeled boats being, in many respects, unsuitable to intercourse between the shipping and the shore, recourse is always had to the common country boats, called ‘masoolahs;’ which, however rude their formation may appear, are perfectly adequate to every purpose, and convey both goods and passengers with general safety.

These masoolah-boats may carry from forty to sixty tons; they are made of plank, about two inches in thickness above, and three below, fastened together by means of coir; that is, the fibres of cocoa-nut rinds, passed through small holes pierced along the edges of the several planks, all around each: these planks appear as though sewed together with twine of the above description, and are fastened to battens and sleepers, answering for ribs and floor timbers. At the bottom, planks are laid in the opposite direction of these, which form the vessel, and near the gun-whales, several thwarts are secured across; they passing through the sides, and being firmly pinned in. There is no deck, and the rudder consists of a large kind of oar, rigged out at the stern.

At a little distance, the masoolah-boats look like rude imitations of our coal-barges: they row from ten to sixteen oars, and when unladen make more speed than persons accustomed to wherries, or to ships’ pinnaces, would expect; getting through the surf, both coming and going, with amazing facility: though sometimes, owing to letting them swing round, instead of steering head-on, they fill, or overset: but this very rarely happens; and the mere act of ‘swamping’, unless in the first, or outward surf, is not attended with any imminent danger; the next wave generally impelling the boat, and all that it contains, high (but not dry,) upon the beach, where it is soon run up out of the water’s way.

In order to encourage the boatmen to exert themselves towards saving any Europeans who may be in danger, owing to a masoolah-boat’s upsetting in the surf, the Company allow premiums, generally medals, to such as may prove their title thereto. Several of the Company’s servants, and others, owe their lives to the activity of these people, a few of whom have been enabled to retire upon a very comfortable subsistence allowed to them by those gentlemen they had rescued. It is much to be lamented, that the Company have never been able to adopt the only efficient means of breaking the surf for a few hundreds of yards; namely, by conical caissons, forming an angle in front of the landing place. Nature has done this for the Portugueze at Pernambuco, forming a bar of coral, at the end of which is a battery: the sea at all times breaks with tremendous violence upon the Bar, and sometimes, though very rarely, dashes over the guns. The supposed objection will be, that, owing to the great expanse of the coast of Coromandel, nothing could be made to resist the force of the water. But, in answer to this, I must observe, that Pernambuco is much more exposed than Madras, it being subject to the force of the trade winds, blowing all the year round from the south-west, across that immense, uninterrupted ocean lying between the two continents of Africa and America, while a very strong current at the same time sweeps round, and causes the surf to rise with full as much violence as in any part of the East. At Pernambuco, vessels lie within the bar, where the water is perfectly still, and deep enough for those of four hundred tons to ride clear of the sandy bottom. At Madras, we could scarcely expect to see so extensive a desideratum obtained, as should afford shelter to the numerous ships of great burthen which frequent its Roads; the expence would be enormous; otherwise, we should be as well able to form such a barrier there, as the French were at Cherburg. It may be said, that the inconvenience attached to the works at the latter place, namely, a vast accumulation of sand, would follow: that would by no means be likely to take place in so very strong a tide, with deep water at hand; and if it should, might perhaps rather tend to facilitate the measure, and to augment the strength of the defences.

It is indispensably necessary, when going ashore at Madras, or in any part where the surf runs high, to be well covered with a boat-cloak, or some ample exterior clothing; for, even under the best management, and during the most favorable weather, the spray will rise around the boat, completely wetting whatever finery may be exposed to its action. Nor must it be considered any way extraordinary, if a large portion of that surf which propels the boat, should pour over her stern or quarters, so as to drench the whole party!

The masoolah-boats are, with great propriety, under the sole management of the master-attendant, or the beach-master. None can put off without licence; and no person can be admitted to serve on board who is not an expert and bold swimmer. I believe, that instances of individuals of any description being lost are extremely rare: such as are enumerated, took place chiefly at the outer surf, (there being usually three following waves to pass, or to accompany,) where the water is very deep, and where immense numbers of ground-sharks are ever on the watch for what accident may throw in their way. It may readily be supposed the shore is tolerably bold, when it is explained, that our Indiamen, deeply laden, have been several times necessitated to warp to the very edge of the outer surf, in consequence of an enemy’s fleet having entered the Roads, with the view to cut them out.

So soon as a vessel is seen standing into the Roads, signals are hoisted, which it is expected she should, if a man of war, or a Company’s ship, be able to answer. On her approach to the anchorage, a boat puts off, with a deputation from the beach-master, to enquire whence she comes, as well as to take the purser, &c. ashore with the despatches. In this first boat, a number of debashes are sure to arrive, bringing with them various articles of provision, fruits, &c. as presents to the captain and officers; whose favor each of them courts, under the hope of being employed as the agent for the ship, or for the supply of necessaries, and for providing lodgings for individuals.

These debashes are generally men of property, and of some consequence among the natives, owing to their having at times so many purchases to make for those who arrive at Madras; but especially where the supplies necessary for a whole ship, or sometimes for a whole fleet, are in question. They all speak broken English, understanding far beyond what they can express in our language; they are servile to an extreme, and most completely trained in every money-making device.

The provision brought on board usually consists of half-starved mutton, buffalo-beef, which might safely be classed with carrion, some tolerable fowls, with, eventually, a few ducks and geese, yams, biringals, capsicums, and other vegetable productions. Fish abound in the Roads, yet are rather scarce, and are very rarely brought on board: this is in a measure owing to the greater number of fishermen being private servants, who are obliged to supply their masters first. It is said, that the water-serpents, which abound in the Roads, and may be seen, in beautiful varieties, to rise, at all hours to the surface, destroy great quantities of the smaller kinds: this I can easily suppose to be true; but, having occasionally seen the catamarans returning from the offing, with immense loads of the best sorts, it would be difficult to convince me, that the scarcity of fish in the market, and on board the ships in the Roads, does not proceed from either the want of industry, or of regulation.

Few people, taking all things into consideration, are more hospitable than the Europeans residing at Madras: where deficiency in that respect is supposed to exist, we may, by due consideration of peculiar circumstances, relating to the person, or to the place, always find some sufficient apology. Being so much frequented, and the number of European gentlemen resident on the spot being comparatively trifling, it cannot be expected they should keep open house, or indulge their friendly dispositions in the exercise of unlimited kindness. In fact, the expectations of those who visit Madras, on their way from Europe to India, are, for the chief part, rather too sanguine: they have heard much of Indian hospitality, and wonder at that disappointment which is purely the offspring of their own unreasonable anticipations. I know not of any situation where a letter of introduction is of more avail, or indeed more necessary, than this: but such letter should be addressed to some person resident at Madras; else it may be perfectly nugatory, in consequence of the immense expanse over which the civil servants, as well as the military, are scattered. A young gentleman taking out a dozen letters, may, on his arrival, find them entirely useless, in consequence of the parties being absent from the presidency.

The passengers of every class are expected to reside on shore during the ship’s detention in the Roads. Few, indeed, neglect to avail themselves of the opportunity offered of seeing one of our principal fortresses, and of observing the customs of a country so celebrated in history, and forming so essential a branch of the British Empire. If an introduction is obtained, by any means, the usual result will be an invitation to reside with the gentleman if he keeps house; otherwise, every attention will be paid in seeing the stranger accommodated, at the best house of that description which admits boarders; and which are commonly called ‘Punch-Houses.’ This designation doubtless arose from the habits of those who first settled in India, and who, finding spirits, sugar, and limes, (a small species of lemon,) every where abundant, indulged in copious draughts of punch. That beverage is now completely obsolete, unless among sea-faring persons, who rarely fail to experience its deleterious effects. In all sea-ports, taverns, or punch-houses, are more frequented than in places where shipping lie in some distant road, or harbour. This occasions them to be more respectable in the opinions of those who keep them, but nothing could reconcile a gentleman, long resident in the country, to seek an accommodation among them: it would imply a total want of respectable connexions: and, in itself, appear sufficient cause for avoiding his acquaintance: so different are the customs of different places!

Totally ignorant of the language, and without any guide, it is not to be wondered that so many impositions are practised on our countrymen on their arrival in India. A debash of the lowest order, and of the most crafty disposition, perfectly experienced in all the ordinary requisitions of Europeans, and prompt to gratify their desires so long as profit attends the speculation, is ever at the elbow of the novice, serving as banker, purveyor, pimp, and interpreter. What more can be requisite to ruin an helpless, inconsiderate youth?

Most of the gentlemen in the Company’s service reside in the fort, or at houses a few miles off, in the country, or at St. Thomas’s Mount, about six miles from Madras, where the Artillery are usually quartered, together with the troops destined to defend the works in case of attack. The incursions to which the Carnatic was formerly exposed, during the times of Hyder, and of Tippoo, rendered it expedient to fortify the Black-Town; which is very extensive, and contains the houses of many highly respectable European merchants, chiefly British and Portugueze, together with the entire property of the richer natives of rank and consequence. I cannot say the Black-Town is an enviable site for residence; but the situation, being subject to the land and sea breezes, the latter of which are as refreshing as the former are debilitating, reconcile the older inhabitants to many inconveniences, among which, smoke is by no means the least obnoxious. The musquitoes are here tolerably numerous, as are also rats of all sizes, cock-roaches, and scorpions: the latter grow to an immense size, and are peculiarly venomous. That most loathsome companion, the bug, is to be found here in such swarms, that it is by no means uncommon to see them crawling about at all hours, and in all places.

St. Thomas’s Mount is certainly the more pleasant station and may be fairly put in competition with any of those rural retreats, called ‘Garden-Houses,’ scattered every where in the vicinity of the capital: at these, many families reside all the year round; the gentlemen who have offices to attend, being conveyed thereto in the mornings, either in palanquins, or in their carriages; the climate by no means favoring much exercise on horse-back.

Except at that season when the flag-staff is struck, Madras Roads are, in general, much resorted to by shipping. Being the seat of government on the Coromandel coast, it necessarily has become the emporium of that side of the peninsula. Most of the China ships touch there, and very few of those proceeding to Bengal omit to call; especially when war either prevails, or is expected to break out. It is much to be lamented, that no means have yet been devised, nor, indeed, appear easily practicable, of rendering the Roads safe against the attack of an enemy. The fort certainly could repel any attempt to land within the reach of its cannon; but there does not appear any possibility of preventing an enterprising enemy from causing all the shipping, either to surrender, or to run ashore. Perhaps hulks might be so stationed, as to become very efficient in the defence of whatever shipping might remain beyond the surfs. One or two old 64 gun ships properly prepared against boarding, might, at all times, suffice, if moored with chains in proper situations, under cover of the batteries.

It being indispensable that every person should be conversant with the several coins, or currency, in which payments are made, or accounts kept, I recommend to my readers to make themselves acquainted with the tables of coins, weights, and measures, in use at Madras: observing, that, throughout the dependant provinces, an endless variety in the two last are to be found; and that, consequently, all dealings must be regulated in proportion to the encreased, or diminished, variations, wherever situated. The ‘East India Directory’ will be found to contain whatever may relate to this subject, including the three presidencies.

Conceiving, that, with few exceptions, the customs of many classes among the natives of Bengal, assimilate greatly with those of the population on the coast, I shall now pass on to the ordinary occurrences attendant upon the arrival of a ship off the Sand-Heads, in the Bay of Balasore. It has been already stated, that the voyage from Madras to Bengal will depend, in regard to duration, entirely upon the season. If the southerly monsoon prevails, Point Palmiras, which is at the southern boundary of Balasore Roads, may be made in from three to seven days: during the northerly monsoon, it is usual, experience having confirmed what accident probably first suggested, to stretch over to the opposite side of the bay upon a wind, and then to run obliquely across on the other tack, so as to arrive in soundings of the mouth of the Hooghly, where the tides will speedily convey a vessel up to any place on the river, notwithstanding the wind’s direction. During the passage, under the former prevalence, the land is not, in general, seen until the water becomes obviously discolored with sand. In the first instance, the course is made directly from Madras Roads, to gain a good offing, whereby the dangerous shoals of Pulicat, about five miles north of Madras, may be avoided: the land all along the coast being invariably low, and the shallows projecting, in some places, full ten miles seaward, it is prudent to keep rather towards the middle of the bay, and, from a N.N.E. course, to change latterly to a N.N.W; rounding in, when the latitude directs, until Point Palmiras may be from four to six leagues distant.

It is of infinite importance to be correct in making that point, which is best regulated by a perfect knowledge of the latitude, there being a promontory very similar thereto, thence designated ‘False Point’; by mistaking which many vessels have been lost. When in sight of Point Palmiras, it is usual to await the arrival of some pilot-vessel, of which one or more are always on the look-out below the Sand-Heads, and to proceed into the river under her guidance. The capture of several of those vessels having occurred within these few years, in consequence of French privateers anchoring, as though in want of pilots, thus taking advantage, in the most infamous and unprincipled manner, of an institution, that ought ever to be held sacred, has given occasion for many precautions, which must inevitably be attended with inconvenience, and even danger, on particular occasions. In lieu of proceeding boldly towards vessels anchored at the usual ne plus ultra, the pilots now draw off towards the channels, allowing the ships to follow at some distance, and refraining from sending a boat on board, until, by their knowledge of the soundings, the schooners may be placed out of danger. If all should prove right, which is soon ascertained by the signals made by the mate sent on board the ship to be piloted, the schooners may then proceed with confidence; but if any suspicion should remain, an alarm would instantly be given; and, if possible, the enemy be decoyed among those dreadful shoals, where, being once entangled, he must fall an easy prey to such force as might be sent against him.

There are various channels by which a ship may proceed to the harbour of Kedgeree, situated many miles up the river, but those most frequented, especially by such as import, are the middle, and left channels, which have, however, barely three fathoms and a half at low water; consequently, ships of burthen are commonly brought to anchor, in such positions as may allow their taking advantage of the best part of the tide for passing the shallows: nevertheless, the sand is ploughed up, by the action of a ship’s passage over them, in such manner as would lead one, at first sight, to conclude she were touching the ground, when perhaps her keel is many feet above it. During daylight, the pilot-schooner makes few signals, but, after night-fall, on every heave of the lead, she communicates, by means of maroons, (which are flambeaux of an immense size, alternately exhibited and concealed in a large tub,) the exact soundings in which she is proceeding. No greater care can possibly be taken, than in the Company’s pilot-service, to conduct ships in safety: exclusive of character, there is much at stake; for no pilot who loses one of the Company’s ships, is retained on the list: he is, ipso facto, dismissed. This regulation, which, no doubt, may, in a few cases, press hard on very meritorious individuals, must be considered one of the most important props of the institution, among persons who may have habitually indulged in the use of spirituous liquors to a dangerous excess. I knew some of the pilots who were perfectly sensible of their failings, and could not be induced, either by temptation, or entreaty, to taste of any beverage stronger than water or country-beer, until they had seen their charges moored in safety. That being done—good bye to forbearance!

It is not a little wonderful, that men who have the power to overrule a dangerous propensity, merely when their professional characters are at stake, should at every other moment throw aside that curb, which, if duly maintained, would preserve their health, and render them far more acceptable members of society!

The country all along the sea-coast, on both sides of the river’s mouth, being extremely low, and there being no hills of sufficient altitude to be distinguished at sea, especially on the right bank, very little gratification is offered to the eye by the surrounding scenery. The shelving beach, on either hand, is overgrown, in most parts, with trees rarely exceeding twenty feet in height, whose stems are surrounded with under-wood, or grass jungle, in which abundance of deer are to be found. The pursuit of sport must, however, be invariably desisted from, on account of the immense numbers of tigers which occupy the same covers. It rarely happens that a party land for the purpose of shooting deer, or wild hogs, (which are equally abundant,) without meeting with some accident; or, at least, being frightened so as to produce the most salutary forbearance. About twenty-five years ago, a son of the late Sir Hector Monro was carried off by a tiger from among his comrades, who had seated themselves round a large fire, made to obviate the apprehended danger, while they awaited the arrival of a boat that was to convey them back to their ship.

All the way, from Balasore up to Kedgeree, the prospect, if we except those agreeable sensations arising from the display of vegetation, and from arriving at the ultimate thule of destination, rather wearies than pleases: nothing is to be seen but a series of wilderness, perhaps here and there enclosing a few huts, or, in the broken intervals, displaying some insignificant village, of which the inhabitants are as poor as they are idle. No public edifice; no gay villas; no busy hum of men; no crowded wharfs! In fact, I scarcely know a spot more dreary than the debouché of the Hooghly, for at least thirty miles; or until arrival at Diamond Harbour.

It is usual for the pilot-schooner to return to the Roads, in search of other importations, unless her tour may be over; in which instance, she proceeds up to Calcutta; leaving a person on board, lest the vessel should drag her anchors, and to prevent her getting into foul ground. The purser, for the most part, avails himself of the attendance of the chokey-boats, which are always plying about the mouth of the rivers for the express purpose of receiving packets. In favorable seasons, these boats have been known to reach Calcutta, distant full sixty miles, in one tide. If a schooner should be proceeding up the river, there should be no hesitation in embarking in her: no equal accommodation can, in general, be had: the whole risk, trouble, and delay, attendant upon making a passage in any of the common country boats, are at once annihilated. The pilot may possibly expect some return for his good offices; but, if he likes his company, will, in all probability, set them ashore at Calcutta free of all expence.

I should not envy the purser his trip in a chokey-boat, with no other than a very small semi-circular covering of mats, under which it is impossible to sit upright, except exactly under its centre. In tempestuous seasons, and such are generally the periods in which the Indiamen arrive, there is often a high swell between Kedgeree and Fulta, the river being in some parts from three to six miles across, and running to the southward, from which quarter the wind blows very forcibly for five months at least. Therefore, although so very few accidents happen, it cannot be considered as a safe voyage between the ship and the capital. The chokey-boats are all under the master-attendant, and bear the Company’s colors, on a small staff, or, at times, at the head of the mast, made of a single bamboo, nearly as long as the boat; which ordinarily rows ten or twelve oars. Being of a light construction, and divested of all superfluous apparatus, the chokey-boats proceed at a prodigious rate; and, on emergency, even when opposed by the tide, can gain from two to six miles hourly; according as they may be able to row along the slack water; to pole up against the more rapid streams; or to track up, when both wind and tide are strongly adverse.

When relatives, or particular friends, are on board any ship whose arrival is expected, it is customary to send a stout pinnace-budgrow to meet her at Kedgeree, there to receive the persons for whose accommodation it was provided. When this act of kindness takes place, all the necessary provision, a bed, table, chairs, &c. are put on board, together with a proper number of servants of such description as are generally needful on the water. Few who have any feeling for their noviciate companions on board, especially those who have been in India, quit the ship without taking with them as many as the pinnace can, without distressing all, receive. This wind-fall does not happen every day; though few ships return to India without conveying one or more old standards, either civil or military: but it is not always that notice can be received of a ship’s being about to import; and when such notice has been received, it is not always thought of, or perhaps practicable, to send a pinnace to receive an old friend.

Persons in a delicate state of health should, if possible, wait till some safe and comfortable conveyance can be obtained. The most certain mode is, to commission the purser to hire a vessel the moment he reaches Calcutta, and to send her off under charge of some servant, who should see that no delay were made by the boatmen; which, if paid by the day, would inevitably follow. The misfortune is, that very few can endure to be confined so much longer on board, and often impatiently reject such a proposition: here we may expect to find that the greatest haste makes the worst speed; at the same time that the expences are encreased greatly, while the accommodations are deteriorated in exact ratio.

Now and then, an adventurous manjee, (or boat-master,) who knows how to make a good bargain, will linger about Diamond Harbour, or lay up in Culpee Creek, with the intent of going down, wind and tide permitting, to the first ship which may arrive from Europe. Such men are certain of a good fare, it being very common to give from fifty rupees (about six guineas) to one hundred (about twelve guineas) for the trip. Such an opportunity, however extravagant the terms may appear, ought not to be lost; it being a great chance whether a second vessel of the same description may proceed to the ship. As to small boats, rowing four or six oars, and having either a thatched cabin, or a semi-circular awning of mats, several of them may come along-side; but they will not be found to yield the smallest accommodation beyond shelter from the sun; while their manjees will not fail to take every advantage of whatever distress, or difficulty, the passenger may labor under.

It would not be just to infer, from what I have said, respecting the readiness with which the boatmen avail themselves of the necessities of persons desirous to leave a ship, that they are particularly covetous, or prone to imposition: we need only look at home, where we shall find that no mercy is shewn to such unfortunate persons as become the prey of our watermen, along the whole extent of our coast. See with what hard-hearted, callous apathy, the boatman views the distress of the unthinking youth, who, either by neglect, or by accident, remains on shore after the boats that frequent his own ship, then under weigh, have put off! What prayers, or arguments, short of those issuing from the purse, can urge him to relieve the anxiety of him, whose whole hope, whose only resource, lies in that voyage for which every preparation has been made, and for which expences, often nearly ruinous to friends and connections, have been defrayed! I speak not of those who are in a hurry to quit their ships, before coming to an anchor; if they will have their way, they must pay for such intemperate haste; it is an expence they have the option of avoiding.

Really, when we come to a fair computation of the risks attendant upon taking a vessel, built expressly for accommodation, and not intended to meet the rude surges of, what may be called, an arm of the sea; that from twelve to eighteen men are engaged; that much time is lost in waiting arrivals; that full sixty miles are to be passed over; and that, perhaps, four or five gentlemen, with all their luggage that may be at hand, are conveyed; I say, when all this is considered, although we certainly, from habit of having things cheaper in India, may deem even the fifty rupees exorbitant, yet there appears far less reason to find fault with the extortion of the Indian than there is to condemn the cruel rapacity of the English boatman!

Whatever may be the rate at which the boat, supposing it to be a pinnace-budgrow, is engaged, no apparatus of any description should be expected; for none will be found. There will usually be an open veranda in the front, having three or four steps to descend from the deck thereto; it being on the same level with the front, or dining room. The after-room narrows considerably towards the stern; and, on account of the vessel’s form, its floor is usually raised one or two steps; this is the sleeping apartment: at the stern is a small slip, serving for a quarter-gallery: The roofs of these boats are usually flat; and some have side-rails above to prevent luggage, or those who sleep there, from falling overboard. The sides are furnished, for their whole length, with Venetian blinds, in frames which lift up by means of hinges at their tops; and a long curtain, made either of tarpaulin, or of painted, or of white canvas, is nailed on the outside; letting down at pleasure, to keep out wind, rain, dust, &c. The baling-place is ordinarily about the centre of the front room; that being the deepest part of the boat’s bottom. Baggage may be put under the deck; but that part is generally occupied by the dandies, (or rowers,) if permitted to sleep there; or perhaps the manjee may think it worth his while to make it a trading voyage and lay in salt, rice, &c. to be disposed of to advantage on his arrival at the presidency.

From this concise detail it will be seen, that some penance must be undergone, even in this kind of boat, and supposing it to be perfectly fitted up with the above defences against bad weather: but such will rarely turn out to be the case. The sea-cot is now of singular use; its hooks being withdrawn from the ship’s beams, and inserted in those of the budgrow. Those who had standing bed-places, must spread their mattresses, &c. on the floor: all must sit upon their trunks, or whatever may be at hand; and every little article of convenience brought from the ship will become useful. Candles, candle-sticks, tin-ware, glasses, &c. are now invaluable. As to table-cloths, there being no table, they may be cheerfully dispensed with; as may also knives and forks, there being no plates; it being probable that curry and rice, prepared by the boatmen, will form the bill of fare. Those who are fond of savoury dishes, may, in this instance, gratify themselves with a repast in high estimation among the gentlemen of India: viz. a dandy’s curry; but I fear, that those who have been in the habit of eating made dishes, at a distance from the culinary operations, may not altogether relish the manner of preparation, nor be invariably pleased with the appearance of the cook; whose habiliments will probably consist of a cloth wrapped round his waist, then passed between his thighs, and a small cap, if the party be a Mussulman; if a Hindu, the entire dress may be composed of a small cord tied round his waist for the purpose of supporting a narrow piece of cloth passed between his thighs thus barely answering the purpose of a fig-leaf. Herpetic eruptions, in large patches, all over the back, breast and arms, together with obvious symptoms of a more troublesome cutaneous complaint, about the fingers, &c. are by no means rare, yet never disqualify the scratching sufferer from officiating as cook to the crew! Were such trifles to be objectionable, it might be somewhat difficult to get a dinner dressed.

It being utterly impracticable to row a budgrow against the tide, which ordinarily runs from three to six miles in the hour, and many difficulties presenting themselves to render it by no means easy to track along the shore, especially where the mud-banks shelve out a great way, the manjee will probably come to near some village, or in some creek, during the ebb; and, as it rarely happens that the first of the flood is taken, particularly during the night time, in all probability the best part of three days will be expended between Kedgeree and Calcutta. If a few bottles of wine, a small quantity of biscuit, a piece of beef, or of pork, and a pack of cards, have been supplied from the ship, so much the more agreeably will the time be passed; but I cannot forbear from observing, that intemperance at this time rarely fails to bring on fevers, such as baffle the art of man. Those who heat their blood on first entering the country, whether by drinking, or by exposure to the sun, become subject to diseases of the liver which are too often incurable, and finally, though after some years perhaps, drag their lingering victim to the grave. With respect to bathing, it is not only insalubrious, as practised by persons who have not proper apparatus at hand, but highly dangerous, on account of the incredible numbers of alligators and sharks, which infest not only the great river, but every little creek, and puddle, within reach of the tide.

The manjee generally endeavors to reach Culpee, Fultah, or Diamond Harbour, with the first tide: at either of those places many articles of provision may be had, and there will be found some persons who can speak a little English. These will invariably do all in their power to encourage the purchase of many things of no use whatever, but which become perquisites to the manjee, on his passengers quitting the vessel. Abundance of poultry may be seen; but, with the exception of a curry, there will no method of dressing them; unless accidentally some person be on board, in whatever capacity, who can trim a fowl, and roast it. If fish are to be had, they will come under the same difficulty; so that, like Sancho, in the midst of plenty, a man may be next to starving, if he cannot make up his mind to partake of the dandies’ curry.

It is proper to caution against eating much fruit, though it may be perfectly ripe: unseasonable avidity in this way has proved fatal to many on their arrival. A few bananas will not incommode; but the cocoa-nut, however pleasant and refreshing it may be, should be partaken of very sparingly; it being extremely apt to affect the bowels, as is also the jack.

Those who have never had an opportunity of seeing the fire-fly, will be agreeably surprized at the millions of those little luminaries, which at night bespangle every bush: displaying themselves in the most vivid manner. The hind parts of these insects, which may be about the size of common house-flies, are replete with a brilliant substance, similar to that contained in the glow-worm, and, like it, equally innocent. It is extremely curious, that, in many parts of the ocean, immense shoals of the luminous sea-maggot, each about the size of a man’s finger, should be seen at nights, causing the water to assume a phosphoric appearance. In sailing through these living shoals, abundance may be drawn up in buckets; while, at the same time, innumerable fishes of prey may be heard, or seen, rushing among them, and, no doubt, making many a hearty meal. The great distance from all land at which these shoals are to be found, must cause us to wonder at their origin, and at their future purposes; for we can scarcely suppose them to be derived from terrestrial parents; nor is it very easy to reconcile to ourselves, that they change into fishes of any kind. It should rather seem that all-bountiful Providence has created them for the sole purpose of affording sustenance to those fishes, which, in consequence of their remaining, perhaps altogether, remote from every shore, would, but for these larvæ, (as we must, for want of knowing better, call them,) be unable to subsist.

Persons arriving from Europe, rarely have any but British coins; in the disbursing of which many impositions will be practised. The best mode is to tender the whole, without delay, to some of the English agency houses, who will readily pay their full value; it being often a matter of difficulty to obtain a few guineas for their friends who may be about to embark, without paying an exorbitant sum to the shroff’s, or native bankers, who can acquire them only from such persons as import with the Indiamen, and are rarely acquainted with their real value.