MOTORCYCLE, SOLO
(Harley‐Davidson Model WLA)

Dissemination of restricted matter.—The information contained in restricted documents, and the essential characteristics of restricted materiel, may be given to any person known to be in the service of the United States, and to persons of undoubted loyalty and discretion who are cooperating in Government work, but will not be communicated to the public or to the press except by authorized military public relations agencies. (See also paragraph 18b, AR 380–5, 28 September 1942.)

CONTENTS

[1] For supersession of quartermaster manuals, refer to paragraph [2.]

PART ONE—OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Section I
INTRODUCTION

1. SCOPE.

a. This technical manual[2] is published for the information and guidance of the using arm personnel charged with the operation, maintenance, and minor repair of this materiel.

b. In addition to a description of the Harley‐Davidson motorcycle, this manual contains technical information required for the identification, use, and care of the materiel. The manual is divided into two parts. Part One, section I through section VI, gives vehicle operating instructions. Part Two, section VII through section XXV, gives vehicle maintenance instructions to using arm personnel charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their jurisdiction.

c. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, or adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the responsible ordnance service should be informed so that trained personnel with suitable tools and equipment may be provided, or proper instructions issued.

2. SUPERSESSION OF QUARTERMASTER MANUALS.

a. This technical manual, together with TM 9–1879, supersedes and replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications:

(1) TM 10–1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley‐Davidson (Model 42–WLA), 11 September 1941.

(2) TM 10–1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley‐Davidson (Models 1940–41–42), 11 September 1941.

(3) TM 10–1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive Harley‐Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo).

(4) TM 10–1359—Instruction folder (45–A) motorcycles, solo, Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941.

(5) TM 10–1361—Instruction folder (45–B) motorcycle, solo, Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941.

RA PD 315708
Figure 1—Top View of Motorcycle

RA PD 315709
Figure 2—Left Side View of Motorcycle

RA PD 315710
Figure 3—Right Side View of Motorcycle

[2] To provide operating instructions with the materiel, this technical manual has been published in advance of complete technical review. Any errors or omissions will be corrected by changes or, if extensive, by an early revision.

Section II
DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA

3. DESCRIPTION (figs. [1], [2], and [3]).

a. This 2‐cylinder solo motorcycle is powered by a V‐type, air‐cooled gasoline engine, operating on conventional 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle principles. Air‐cooled engines rely upon movement of air over cylinder and head radiating fins, and upon circulation of oil for dissipation of excessive heat. Motorcycle engines, therefore, under no conditions should be operated for more than 1 minute when motorcycle is not in motion.

4. DATA.

Section III
CONTROLS AND OPERATION

RA PD 310201
Figure 4—Controls

5. CONTROLS ([fig. 4]).

a. Controls are peculiar to the motorcycle. The rider must become thoroughly familiar with the location and use of all control devices before attempting to operate vehicle.

b. Gasoline Valve (figs. [5] and [6]). Gasoline valve is located in left tank, forward. Valve is closed by turning to the right, finger tight. Turning to left opens valve. Valve is in normal operating position when turned to left, with valve head down. Lifting valve head releases emergency supply of fuel (3 quarts).

RA PD 310202
Figure 5—Fuel Supply Valve

RA PD 310293
Figure 6—Fuel Supply Valve Positions

c. Throttle. The throttle is controlled by right handle bar grip. Turning grip inward opens throttle, turning it outward closes throttle.

d. Spark. Spark is controlled by left handle bar grip. Turning grip inward advances spark, turning it outward retards spark.

e. Clutch ([fig. 7]). Clutch is operated by left foot (rocker‐type) pedal, connecting with steel cable, which actuates clutch release lever. Pedal is located on left side of motorcycle above footboard. Forward downward (toe) position of pedal engages clutch. Rear downward (heel) position of pedal disengages clutch. Foot pedal provided with friction device to retain it in either engaged or disengaged position.

RA PD 310204
Figure 7—Clutch Pedal Positions

RA PD 310205
Figure 8—Gear Shifter Lever Positions

f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel). Foot pedal is located on right side of motorcycle at forward end of footboard.

g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel). Auxiliary brake is operated by hand lever located on left handle bar. It is used in conjunction with service brake, as an emergency brake, or for holding vehicle while starting engine on grade. CAUTION: Brake is to be applied lightly and cautiously on wet and slippery roads.

h. Gear Shifter ([fig. 8]). Shifter lever is located on left tank, forward position, and operates within a guide. Shifter lever guide is notched for positive location of gears and each position is identified, front to rear: “1”—low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second gear; “3”—direct high gear.

RA PD 310206
Figure 9—Carburetor Choke Lever Positions

i. Steering Damper. Steering damper is an adjustable friction device to damper turning action of forks, steady front wheel, and prevent wobble in rough terrain or at high speeds, and is located on top of steering head in center of handle bars. Move handle to right to apply desired friction.

j. Foot Starter Crank ([fig. 1]). The foot starter crank is located on right side of motorcycle. Gear shifter lever must be in neutral position, and clutch foot pedal in forward engaged position, before using foot starter crank. Starter crank normally is in upward position. Straddle motorcycle, place right foot on starter crank, and shift weight of body for forceful downward crank operation to start engine.

k. Ignition and Light Switch. Earlier models are provided with switch lock, later models are nonlocking. Switch is off in straight‐forward position. First position to right is for engine ignition only. Second position to right is for ignition and blackout lights. To use vehicle service lights, depress button to turn switch to third right position.

l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Instead of an ammeter and oil pressure gage, signal lights indicate generator charging, and engine oil pressure.

(1) Green light is located on left side of instrument panel. When engine is running, and light is out, it indicates generator is charging.

(2) Red light is located on right side of instrument panel. When engine is running, and light is out, it indicates engine oil is circulating.

m. Carburetor Choke ([fig. 9]). Choke lever is in full prime position when all the way up, and in normal running position when all the way down.

6. ENGINE PRESTARTING INSTRUCTIONS.

a. Before the engine is started, perform the Before‐operation Service outlined in paragraph [15]. Special care must be taken during starting and warming‐up period to avoid unnecessary engine wear.

b. The rider must acquire correct motorcycle engine starting habits, and learn to do the job the quickest, easiest, and most dependable way. The following pointers will be helpful to the beginner as well as to a seasoned rider:

(1) Mount (straddle) motorcycle to obtain firm grip on handle bars.

(2) Leave side stand (jiffy stand) outward to support vehicle while operating foot starter crank with right foot.

(3) Engine starting will be benefited by use of front wheel, hand‐operated brake, to prevent vehicle from rolling or shifting during starting kicks. This is especially helpful if vehicle is parked on an incline or on soft, uneven surface.

c. The procedure outlined below is preparatory to starting either cold, warm, or hot engine:

(1) Place gear shifter lever in “N” (neutral) position ([fig. 8]).

(2) See that gasoline shut‐off valve is open ([fig. 5]).

(3) Engage clutch ([fig. 7]).

(4) Spark control (left) grip must be turned inward to fully advanced position, or nearly so.

(5) Foot starter crank may travel ½ way downward before starting engine. See that a full vigorous starter stroke is used. A vigorous kick, using a full swing (not a jab) of right leg and hip, is correct engine starting practice.

7. STARTING THE ENGINE.

a. Procedure for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines differs. Therefore, following instructions are used with paragraph [6 c] to cover correct procedure in all three cases.

b. Starting Cold Engine. When vehicle has not been operated for some time, and engine is normally cold, follow progressive procedure for easiest starting.

(1) Set carburetor choke lever in full upward (closed) position.

(2) Open throttle wide by turning right grip inward as far as it will go.

(3) Prime cylinders by operating foot starter crank one or two strokes.

(4) Set carburetor choke lever in ¼ to ½ closed position for mild weather starting: ¾ closed (or leave fully choked) for extremely cold weather starting. CAUTION: It is only in extremely cold weather that engine may start best with choke fully closed, and even then it will have to be moved from this position immediately after engine is started.

(5) Set throttle (right) grip to slightly open position.

(6) Turn ignition switch on, first right position.

(7) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.

(8) When engine starts, set throttle for moderate idling speed for warming up, or until ready to set vehicle in motion. Do not race engine unnecessarily.

(9) After engine warms up, and misfires due to an overrich mixture, gradually move choke lever downward. After engine has thoroughly warmed up, move choke lever to fully open (downward) position.

c. Starting Warm Engine. Following instructions apply to engine when halfway between hot and cold. With engine in this condition, carburetor choking must be handled cautiously.

(1) Lift choke lever to first upward position from normal (¼ closed).

(2) Set throttle (right) grip to fully closed (outward) position.

(3) Operate foot starter crank one or two strokes.

(4) Set throttle grip to between ¼ and ¹⁄₃ open position.

(5) Turn ignition switch on.

(6) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.

(7) Soon after engine starts, choke lever must be moved to fully open (downward) position.

(8) Turn throttle grip to control idling speed of engine.

d. Starting Hot Engine. If engine has been shut off for only a brief period and is near normal operating temperature, it is not necessary to use carburetor choke lever. With some engines, depending upon carburetor condition and adjustment, hot starting is easier and more dependable if foot starter crank is operated one stroke before turning ignition switch on.

(1) Close throttle grip by turning fully outward.

(2) Turn ignition switch on.

(3) Operate foot starter crank to start engine.

(4) When hot engine does not start readily after two or three strokes of the foot starter crank, it is usually due to an overrich (flooded) condition, and the proper procedure then is to open throttle wide so that more air can enter: close throttle quickly after engine starts. CAUTION: After engine has warmed up to a normal operating temperature, do not allow engine to stand idling for longer than a 1 minute interval.

e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery. See paragraph [12].

f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Function of generator (green) signal light depends upon action of cut‐out relay; engine oil pressure (red) signal light depends upon action of oil feed pump. Rider must, therefore, thoroughly understand operating characteristics of both signal lights to judge condition of generator‐battery circuit and pressure in engine oil circulating system.

(1) When ignition light switch is turned to first (right) position, preparatory to starting engine, both green and red signal lights should go on. CAUTION: When switch is turned on, immediately after engine has been primed by cranking, red (oil pressure) signal light may not light at once, but will light after a few seconds, due to oil pressure built up by cranking, and is most likely to be noticed in cold weather.

(2) With engine started and running at medium idling speed, both signal lights should go off. CAUTION: Should oil pressure (red) signal light fail to go off at speeds above idling, conditions must be brought to attention of unit mechanic.

(3) At slow idle speed, or under approximately 20 miles per hour road speed (in high gear), generator (green) signal light will normally flash on and off, because at that speed generator voltage output is very low and unsteady. CAUTION: Should generator (green) signal light fail to go off at speed above approximately 20 miles per hour, generator is either not charging at all, or its current output is not up to normal, and generator should be given attention at once.

8. STOPPING THE ENGINE.

a. Stop engine only by turning ignition and light switch to off (straight‐ahead) position, to prevent discharge of battery through spark coil primary circuit.

9. OPERATION OF VEHICLE.

a. Starting on Level Ground. The engine having been warmed up and checked for satisfactory operation, the vehicle (with operator in riding position) is put in motion as follows:

(1) Transfer body weight to right leg.

(2) Fold back side stand (jiffy stand).

(3) Disengage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with heel of left foot.

(4) Shift gear shifter lever into “1” (low) gear position.

(5) Slowly engage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with toe of left foot.

(6) When clutch starts to “take hold,” open throttle sufficiently to maintain engine speed.

(7) Accelerate gradually to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low gear.

(8) Close throttle quickly.

(9) Disengage clutch.

(10) Shift through “N” (neutral) position into “2” (second) gear.

(11) Reengage clutch and accelerate to about 25 miles per hour.

(12) Close throttle quickly.

(13) Disengage clutch.

(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear.

(15) Reengage clutch and accelerate to desired speed.

b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.

(1) If standing on an incline or in loose, heavy ground, more engine power will be required to start vehicle without stalling engine.

(2) It may be necessary to keep vehicle from rolling by keeping pressure on front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released after vehicle starts in forward motion.

(3) Open throttle and engage clutch at same time to provide power needed for starting, without racing engine unnecessarily.

(4) Motorcycle starts should be made without excessive application of power, with consequent unnecessary spinning of rear wheel.

10. DRIVING PRECAUTIONS.

a. Practice will enable a rider to judge at what rate of speed the motorcycle should be moving before he shifts from a lower to higher gear, and engine should never be permitted to labor unduly, when a shift of gears, higher to lower, would improve operation.

(1) Operator must not look down at gear shifter when shifting gears, but keep his eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The operator’s foot should rest on clutch foot pedal only when he is operating it. When shifting gears, disengage clutch fully to avoid gear damage and shifting difficulties. CAUTION: Many transmissions are ruined through failure to disengage clutch fully when shifting gears.

b. Braking. Rear wheel service brake must be in such condition that medium‐hard application will cause rear wheel to lock. Application of service brake should be gradual, with just enough force to accomplish desired result.

(1) Auxiliary front wheel brake, when used in conjunction with service brake, must be applied with caution, especially on wet, muddy, or slippery roads.

(2) After passing through water, the brakes should be set slightly, and the vehicle operated for a short distance, until sufficient heat has been generated to dry the brakes.

c. Avoid Low Gear Operation. Always operate vehicle in highest gear possible, consistent with tactical situation, speed required, power required, and kind and nature of road substance, to prevent overheating of engine.

d. High Speed Tips. Only experienced riders should indulge in high‐speed riding. A motorcycle operated for long distances at high speed must be given closer than ordinary attention to avoid serious engine overheating with consequent damage. For better motorcycle service, apply the following suggestions:

(1) Develop habit of frequently snapping throttle shut for an instant when running at high speed. This draws additional lubrication to piston and cylinder and assists in cooling engine.

(2) In cool weather, operate engine slowly until it is thoroughly warmed up, to avoid damage to pistons, rings, cylinders, and other parts before oil is warm enough to circulate freely.

(3) If handle bar windshield and leg shields are used, engine is more likely to overheat with continued high‐speed riding. Watch this carefully.

(4) Adjust “steering damper” for best control of motorcycle consistent with riding speed and condition and nature of road.

11. STOPPING AND PARKING VEHICLE.

a. Stopping Vehicle. Rider will make a “restart” easier and quicker if he will apply the following instructions upon stopping vehicle:

(1) Close throttle.

(2) Disengage clutch.

(3) Apply brake (or brakes) to slow vehicle without sliding rear tire.

(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral) position and engage clutch. CAUTION: If immediate restart is to be made, shift into “1” (low) gear and allow clutch foot pedal to remain in disengaged position. (Rider will be mounted on motorcycle with engine running.)

(5) Continue brake application to complete stop.

(6) After vehicle slows to point where it can no longer be balanced by steering, place left foot on ground to maintain balance until right foot can be removed from brake operating pedal. CAUTION: Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute.

(7) Stop engine by turning ignition switch off.

b. Parking Vehicle.

(1) Lean motorcycle on side (jiffy) stand.

(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear.

(3) Engage clutch so vehicle cannot roll.

(4) Shut off gasoline supply by turning valve (to right) finger‐tight against its seat.

12. TOWING VEHICLE TO START ENGINE.

a. In emergencies when engine cannot be started with foot starter crank, it can be started by towing the motorcycle.

(1) Set gear shifter lever in “2” (second) gear position.

(2) Disengage clutch.

(3) Choke carburetor.

(4) Turn ignition switch on.

(5) After momentum of the towed motorcycle reaches between 10 and 15 miles per hour, engage clutch, and continue procedure until engine starts.

b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery. Emergency engine starting with dead battery can be effected by making use of freshly charged battery, or by towing as outlined above. If vehicle with dead battery is to be towed for engine starting, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect battery negative wire from ground on right side of motorcycle.

(2) Tow motorcycle for engine starting.

(3) After engine is started, reconnect battery ground wire to frame to prevent damage to electrical system.

13. RUNNING‐IN NEW ENGINE (OR VEHICLE).

a. A new motorcycle engine or newly overhauled engine must be given proper “break‐in” consideration for at least the first 1,000 to 1,200 miles of service. Failure to do this may result in damage that will put engine out of active service within a short period of time.

b. At the first 250 miles, check front and rear drive chains to make sure they are receiving required amount of oil for ample lubrication. If necessary, have chain oilers adjusted by unit mechanic. Drive chains must be inspected for correct adjustment, and be given attention by unit mechanic as needed.

c. At first 500 miles, drain oil tank and refill with fresh oil. Check front and rear chains (step b above). Thereafter, follow instructions in Maintenance Operation section.

d. After a new motorcycle has been run 500 to 1,000 miles it needs to be thoroughly checked over and any loose screws and nuts tightened. Particular attention must be given engine and transmission mounting bolts and nuts, and to rear wheel mounting socket screws.

e. Following pointers must be observed when running‐in new engine or newly overhauled engine:

(1) Do not exceed 30 miles per hour during first 100 miles.

(2) Do not exceed 35 miles per hour during next 200 miles.

(3) Do not exceed 40 miles per hour during next 400 miles.

(4) Do not exceed 50 miles per hour during next 500 miles.

(5) Avoid use of low gears during break‐in operation as much as possible.

Section IV
FIRST ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES

14. PURPOSE.

a. To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the vehicle be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is operated and weekly, so that defects may be discovered and corrected before they result in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled maintenance services will be performed at these designated intervals. The services set forth in this section are those performed by driver or crew before operation, during operation, at halt, after operation, and weekly.

b. Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back of “Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,” W.D. Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items peculiar to specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are covered in manual procedures under the items to which they are related. Certain items listed on the form that do not pertain to the vehicle involved are eliminated from the procedures as written into the manual. Every organization must thoroughly school each driver in performing the maintenance procedures set forth in manuals, whether or not they are listed specifically on W.D. Form No. 48.

c. The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this vehicle are expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for accomplishment of the inspections and services. These services are arranged to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver, and are not necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on W.D. Form No. 48. The item numbers, however, are identical with those shown on that form.

d. The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting member or connection, and generally includes a check to see whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively worn.

(1) The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.

(2) The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its normal assembled position in the vehicle.

(3) The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.

(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

e. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics beyond the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the earliest opportunity to the designated individual in authority.

15. BEFORE‐OPERATION SERVICE.

a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to see that the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the After‐operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation and it is the duty of the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to carry out any mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations.

b. Procedures. Before‐operation Service consists of inspecting items listed below according to the procedure described, and correcting or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service, results should be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority.

(1) Item 1, Tampering and Damage. Look for any injury to vehicle in general, its accessories or equipment, that may have been caused by tampering, sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire since parking vehicle. Look for loosened or damaged accessories, loose fuel or oil lines, or any disconnected linkage.

(2) Item 3, Fuel and Oil. Inspect tanks for fuel and oil levels, add oil and fuel as necessary. Any appreciable change in levels since performing After‐operation Service should be investigated and reported to designated authority.

(3) Item 4, Accessories and Drives. Examine all accessories such as carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose connections, loose mountings, or leaks. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free up‐and‐down movement (slack), midway between sprockets. Total up‐and‐down movement must not be more than 1 inch, nor less than ½ inch. Inspect rear chain for adequate lubrication.

(4) Item 6, Leaks, General. Examine vehicle and ground under vehicle for indications of fuel or oil leaks. Normally a few drops of waste oil from chains may be expected to drop from skid plate.

(5) Item 11, Glass. Clean glass on instruments; clean and adjust rear view mirror; inspect glass for breakage.

(6) Item 12, Lamps. If tactical situation permits, observe whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that lights are secure, and that lenses are clean and not broken. Observe whether both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left handle bar is moved to its respective positions.

(7) Item 13, Wheels, Axle Nuts and Screws. Examine rear wheel mounting socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker stud nuts for tightness. Observe rear chain adjusting screws for secure locking. Inspect spokes for good condition and tightness.

(8) Item 14, Tires. Examine tires for cuts or imbedded objects in treads or carcass. If time permits, check air pressure, which should be 18 pounds front, and 20 pounds rear (tires cold). Inspect valve caps for presence and secure mounting.

(9) Item 15, Springs and Suspension. Examine front fork springs for secure mounting and good condition. Push down rear of saddle to test for full action of saddle post spring.

(10) Item 16, Steering and Handle Bar Controls. Test steering head bearing adjustment by exerting strong upward pull at handle bar grips, and observing whether or not there is any noticeable play in bearing. Operate steering damper lever and observe that damper is compressed before lever reaches right‐side position, and is fully released with lever in left‐side position. Test handle bar grip controls for full, free action; also test for complete opening and closing of throttle, and full advance and retard of timer.

(11) Item 17, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting.

(12) Item 21, Tools and Equipment. Inspect tools and equipment for presence, serviceability, and proper stowage. (See tool list in par. [21].)

(13) Item 7, Engine Warm‐up. Start engine, noting any tendency toward hard starting, or improper action of foot starter crank. Set throttle to moderate idle speed. Listen for unusual noises. Watch instrument indications and engine performance, such as misfiring. CAUTION: Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute with vehicle standing.

(14) Item 8, Choke. During idling of engine, reset choke as required to prevent excessive choking and dilution of engine oil.

(15) Item 9, Instruments. When switch is turned on and engine is idling at moderate speed both red light (indicating oil pressure) and green light (indicating generator action) should be out. At lower operating speeds generator‐indicating light may flicker. CAUTION: Do not operate engine with red light on (no oil pressure).

(16) Item 10, Horn. Tactical situation permitting, test horn.

(17) Item 22, Engine Operation. Engine should idle smoothly. Accelerate and decelerate, listening for any unusual noises that may indicate compression or exhaust leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or inadequately lubricated engine parts, or accessories. Note any unusual smoke from exhaust.

(18) Item 23, Driver’s Permit, Accident Report Form No. 26, and Vehicle Manual. These items must be present on vehicle and safely stowed.

(19) Item 25, During‐operation Service. The During‐operation Service should start immediately after vehicle is put in motion, in the nature of a road test.

16. DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE.

a. While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as rattles, knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Be alert to detect any odor of overheated components or units such as generator, brakes, or clutch, fuel vapor from a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas, or other signs of trouble. Any time the brakes are used, gears shifted, or vehicle turned, consider this a test and notice any unsatisfactory or unusual performance. Watch the instruments constantly. Notice promptly any unusual instrument indication that may signify possible trouble in system to which the instrument applies.

b. Procedures. During‐operation Service consists of observing items listed below according to the procedures following each item, and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice minor deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity, usually at next scheduled halt.

(1) Item 27, Foot and Hand Brakes. The foot brake should operate smoothly and effectively, leaving reserve pedal travel of 1 inch. Normal free play before operation is 1 inch. Test hand brake lever for free play, which should be ¼ of total handle travel. Test for ease and smoothness of operation.

(2) Item 28, Clutch. Inspect clutch for disengagement at about ½ pedal travel. Clutch should not chatter, squeal, or slip.

(3) Item 29, Transmission. Gears should shift smoothly, operate quietly, and not jump out of mesh during operation. If transmission jumps out of mesh in any gear, this indicates need of shifter control adjustment.

(4) Item 31, Engine and Controls. Be alert for deficiency in engine performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual noise, stalling, indication of engine overheating, or unusual exhaust smoke. Notice whether engine responds to controls satisfactorily, whether controls appear to be in proper adjustment and are sufficiently tight.

(5) Item 32, Instruments. Observe instruments for indication of normal functioning of systems to which they apply.

(a) Speedometer and Odometer. Speedometer should indicate vehicle speed without excessive noise or fluctuation. Odometer should record trip and total mileage.

(b) Oil Pressure Signal Light. Red light should be off during operation. If light goes on, stop vehicle and investigate for oil pressure failure.

(c) Generator Signal Light. Green light should be off above 20 miles per hour. Battery discharge is indicated by green light being on.

(6) Item 33, Steering. Adjust steering damper to desired steering friction. Observe vehicle steering for wander, shimmy, leading to one side, or wheel hop.

(7) Item 34, Running Gear. Listen for any unusual noises from wheels, axles, or suspension parts that might indicate looseness or damage.

(8) Item 35, Chassis. Be alert for noises that might indicate loose accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment.

17. AT‐HALT SERVICE.

a. At‐halt Service may be regarded as minimum maintenance procedures and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even though more extensive maintenance services must be slighted or omitted altogether.

b. Procedures. At‐halt Service consists of investigating any deficiencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below according to the procedures following the items, and correcting any deficiencies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority.

(1) Item 38, Fuel and Oil. Replenish fuel and oil as may be required to reach next refilling point. CAUTION: Left tank is for fuel; right tank is for oil. Filler caps should not be interchanged, as only fuel tank cap is vented.

(2) Item 39, Temperatures. Hand‐feel wheel hubs and brake drums for overheating.

(3) Item 40, Vents. Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil feed pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake side covers are open and clean.

(4) Item 42, Springs and Suspensions. Look for broken springs in fork.

(5) Item 43, Steering. Investigate any difficulty developed during riding.

(6) Item 44, Wheels and Mounting Screws. Inspect wheels for broken, bent, or loose spokes. Also, look for loose axle nuts or rear wheel mounting screws. Inspect wheel rims for good condition.

(7) Item 45, Tires. Examine tires for low pressure or damage. Remove foreign matter from tire treads; inspect for cuts.

(8) Item 46, Leaks, General. Inspect vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, or battery leaks.

(9) Item 47, Accessories and Chain. Examine accessories for loose connections, loose mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing connecting link spring clips. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication.

(10) Item 48, Air Cleaner. Air cleaner must be secure, with air passages in good condition and clean. When operating under extremely dusty or sandy conditions, inspect air cleaner frequently and service as required.

(11) Item 49, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, and Stands. Inspect these items for looseness or damage.

(12) Item 52, Appearance and Glass. Clean windshield, rear view mirror, and light lenses; inspect for good condition, secure attachment, and broken glass.

18. AFTER‐OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE.

a. After‐operation Service is particularly important, because at this time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies that may have developed, and corrects those he is permitted to handle. He should report promptly, to the designated individual in authority, the results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed thoroughly, the vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment’s notice. The Before‐operation Service, with a few exceptions, is then necessary only to ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same condition in which it was left upon completion of the After‐operation Service. The After‐operation Service should never be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to the bare fundamental services outlined for the At‐halt Service, if necessary.

b. Procedures. When performing the After‐operation Service, the driver must remember and consider any irregularities noticed during the day in the Before‐operation. During‐operation, and At‐halt Services. The After‐operation Service consists of inspecting and servicing the following items. Those items of the After‐operation Services that are marked with an asterisk (*) require additional Weekly services, the procedures for which are indicated in step (b) of each applicable item.

(1) Item 54, Fuel and Oil. Fill fuel and oil tanks; fill oil tank within 1 inch of top; be sure to put oil in right tank and fuel in left tank; do not interchange caps. CAUTION: When operating under extremely dusty conditions, drain engine oil tank and refill with fresh oil as frequently as excessive contamination of the oil occurs.

(2) Item 55, Engine Operation. Test for satisfactory engine idle without stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any tendency to miss or backfire, unusual noises, or vibration that may indicate worn parts, loose mounting, incorrect fuel mixture, or faulty ignition. Investigate any unsatisfactory engine operating characteristics noted during operation. Learn to recognize noise caused by loose primary (front) drive chain. Slack in excess of ½ inch total up‐and‐down motion can cause excessive noise which sounds like engine knock. Remove inspection cover for examination of chain.

(3) Item 57, Horn. If tactical situation permits, test horn.

(4) Item 59, Lights. If tactical situation permits, observe whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that lights are secure, and lenses clean and not broken. Observe whether both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left handle bar is moved to its respective positions.

(5) Item 56, Instruments. Before stopping engine, inspect instruments to see that indicator lights are still out. Stop engine. After 30 seconds, turn on switch to see that oil pressure and generator signal lights turn on. CAUTION: Be sure to turn off ignition switch after this test.

(6) Item 58, Glass. Clean rear view mirror, windshield, instrument, and light glass. Examine for secure mounting and breakage.

(7) Item 62, *Battery.

(a) Inspect battery carrier for good condition and secure mounting. Inspect electrolyte level (should be ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above plates). Inspect for any signs of leakage of electrolyte indicating battery has been overfilled, poorly sealed, or damaged. CAUTION: Do not add water unless actually needed.

(b) Weekly. Clean dirt from top of battery, remove battery caps, bring electrolyte level to ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above plates, using clean, drinkable water. Clean terminals or posts if corroded; be sure felt washers are on terminals and properly oiled; tighten terminal bolts cautiously, if loose. Clean and paint battery carrier if corroded.

(8) Item 63, *Accessories and Chain.

(a) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose connections, mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing connecting link spring clips. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free up‐and‐down movement (slack) midway between sprockets; maximum total allowable deflection is 1 inch, minimum, ½ inch.

(b) Weekly. Tighten any accessory connections found loose. Wipe excess dirt from rear chain. Check front chain for adjustment, and inspect for proper lubrication.

(9) Item 65, *Air Cleaner.

(a) Examine oil cup for excessive dirt and correct oil level. If air cleaner is excessively dirty, clean elements in dry‐cleaning solvent, refill cup with fresh oil. Dip elements in oil in oil cup, replacing elements and attaching oil cup immediately. If gaskets are damaged, replace. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Inspect hose for leaks.

(b) Weekly. Inspect air cleaner for proper oil level and excessively dirty oil. Clean and service air cleaner, tighten mounting and hose clamps. NOTE: Early‐type, round air cleaner does not have removable filter elements. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element.

(10) Item 66, *Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer).

(a) Clean cap and screen of fuel filter.

(b) Weekly. Clean cap and screen of fuel filter, remove carburetor bowl drain plug, and drain off water and dirt. Be sure to replace plug, being careful to avoid cross threading.

(11) Item 67, Engine Controls. Examine throttle and spark controls for damage to wires or for disconnected linkage. Observe for lack of lubrication.

(12) Item 68, *Tires.

(a) Remove foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from tire treads. Inspect tires for abnormal tread wear, cuts, or bruises: also for presence and tightness of valve caps. Inflate tires to 18 pounds front, 20 pounds rear, with tires cool.

(b) Weekly. Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable tires.

(13) Item 69, *Springs and Suspension.

(a) Inspect front fork for broken or sagged springs, loose bolts, studs, and nuts.

(b) Weekly. Tighten wheel axle nuts and rear brake sleeve nut. Also tighten rear wheel mounting socket screws very securely.

(14) Item 70, Steering. Inspect steering head for proper adjustment of bearings. Examine steering damper for correct adjustment.

(15) Item 72, *Vents.

(a) Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil supply pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake side covers are open and clean.

(b) Weekly. Clean crankcase breather outlet, rear chain oil supply pipe, and grease drains in front and rear brake side covers.

(16) Item 73, Leaks, General. Look around mechanism and beneath vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Examine around brake drums for evidence of grease in drums or on linings. Normally a few drops of oil may be expected to drip from skid plate.

(17) Item 74, Gear Oil Levels. Inspect transmission oil level with vehicle standing on rear stand (not jiffy stand); refill, if required, to level of filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: Do not use gear oil.

(18) Item 76, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards, and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting.

(19) Item 82, *Tighten.

(a) Inspect all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for tightness.

(b) Weekly. Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. Driver is cautioned not to tamper with or tighten screws or nuts about the circuit breaker, as doing so may disturb ignition timing.

(20) Item 83, *Lubricate as Needed.

(a) Lubricate all parts where inspection reveals need for lubrication: wipe all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant. Report any missing fittings.

(b) Weekly. When vehicle has been driven a sufficient number of miles so that it is due for a regularly scheduled lubrication, lubricate according to Lubrication Guide in manual and current lubrication directives. Refrain from overlubricating wheel bearings, front brake side cover bushing, and front and rear brake operating lever camshafts.

(21) Item 84, *Clean Engine and Vehicle.

(a) Clean dirt and trash from vehicle and remove excess grease.

(b) Weekly. Wash vehicle if possible. If not, wipe off thoroughly. Do not rub lustreless paint enough to cause shine. If vehicle is washed in a stream, care should be taken that water or dirt does not get into bearings, breather valve, or brakes. CAUTION: It is extremely important that high‐pressure streams or steam should not be directed against wheel hubs, brakes, carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical units.

(12) Item 64, *Electrical Wiring.

(a) Inspect all ignition wiring to see that it is securely connected, clean, and not damaged.

(b) Weekly. Inspect all wiring to see that it is securely connected and supported, that insulation is not cracked or chafed, that loom, shielding, and condensers are in good condition and securely attached. Clean as required. Tighten any loose connections carefully. Radio shielding or bonding defects, except cleaning or tightening, must be referred to signal corps personnel.

(23) Item 85, *Tools and Equipment.

(a) See that all tools and equipment assigned to vehicle are present, in good condition, and properly stowed.

(b) Weekly. Check tools and equipment assigned to vehicle with vehicle stowage list (par. [21]) to see that they are present. Inspect tools for good condition and proper stowage. Report missing or unserviceable items to designated authority.

Section V
LUBRICATION

19. INTRODUCTION.

a. Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance, determining to a great extent serviceability of parts and assemblies.

20. LUBRICATION GUIDE ([fig. 10]).

a. General. Lubrication instructions for this materiel are consolidated in a Lubrication Guide ([fig. 10]). These specify the points to be lubricated, the periods of lubrication, and the lubricant to be used. Intervals indicated on the guide are for normal service. For extreme conditions, high speed, heat, mud, snow, rough roads, dust, etc., change engine oil and lubricate more frequently. In addition to the items on the guide, brake, gear shifter, clutch control linkage, and hinges must be lubricated at frequent intervals.

b. Supplies. In the field it may not be possible to supply a complete assortment of lubricants called for by the Lubrication Guide to meet the recommendations. It will be necessary to make the best use of those available, subject to inspection by the officer concerned, in consultation with responsible ordnance personnel.

c. Lubrication Notes. The following notes apply to the Lubrication Guide ([fig. 10]). All note references in the guide itself are to the steps below having the corresponding number:

(1) Brake Fittings. Exercise caution when lubricating brake operating cams and front brake cover bushing, as excess grease working out of these bearings is likely to get onto brake lining, reducing brake efficiency. CAUTION: When using air‐operated grease gun, make sure not to overlubricate brake fittings.

(2) Brake Hand Lever Oilcan Points. Oil hand lever fittings and “oiler” mounted on cable housing. Oil front brake control cable at ends of control cable housing.

(3) Generator Commutator End Bearing. Hand‐pack with general purpose grease, No. 2, at temperatures above zero. Below zero, use lighter grease. This operation requires removal of generator end cover. Bearing outer grease retainer must be loosened and swung aside for access to bearing. If not convenient to grease bearing at specified intervals, at least lubricate with a few drops of engine oil applied to hole in outer grease retainer. Do not overlubricate. CAUTION: Generator regulating brush plate must not be shifted while bearing outer grease retainer is loose (par. [92]). Generator drive end bearing requires no attention, since it is lubricated by oil circulating through engine.

RA PD 310207
Figure 10—Lubrication Guide

(4) Spark and Throttle Control Grips. These grips require disassembly. Twice a year, or whenever grips do not turn freely, indicating need of lubrication, remove grips, clean parts, apply grease, and reassemble (par. [101]).

(5) Air Cleaner. Examine oil cup daily for excessive dirt and correct oil level. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Refill oil cup to indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and refill oil cup every 250 miles, depending upon operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (oftener if necessary), remove air cleaner filter units, wash in dry‐cleaning solvent, lubricate, and reassemble (par. [76]). NOTE: Early type round cleaner did not have removable filter element. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element.

(6) Wheel Bearings. When wheel hubs are lubricated at regular 500‐mile interval, ¹⁄₈ ounce of grease with each greasing is sufficient. This amounts to about 15 shots of the standard 1‐pound air gun, or four strokes with a 1‐pound, hand‐operated gun. If vehicle has been operated in water, wheel hubs submerged, apply hub greasing service immediately afterward (or soon as situation permits). Do not overlubricate wheel hub bearings, as excess grease may work into brake linings, reducing brake efficiency. When using air‐operated grease gun, it is easy to overlubricate wheel hub bearings.

(7) Steering Head Bearings. Every 50,000 miles, repack upper and lower bearings, or whenever there is occasion to remove rigid fork for repair or replacement (par. [98]).

(8) Tank, Engine Oil. Oil tank is located on right side of motorcycle. Empty tank holds 1 U. S. gallon. Check daily and add engine oil as necessary to refill tank within 1 inch of top. Oil level gage rod (dip stick) is located directly below tank cap. When oil level is down to “REFILL” mark on gage rod, 2 U. S. quarts may be added. Drain oil tank every 1,000 miles and refill with fresh engine oil. Drain plug located on underside of tank in forward position. In extremely dusty service, and in winter weather, change oil oftener.

(a) Winter Caution. Water is a by‐product of combustion in any internal combustion engine. In a condensed state, the water vapor formed would equal approximately the quantity of gasoline burned. Some of this water vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When starting and warming up in cold weather, considerable vapor getting into crankcase condenses to water before crankcase is hot enough to exhaust the vapor, without inside condensation, through outside breather. If engine is driven enough to get crankcase thoroughly warmed up frequently, most of this water is again vaporized and blown out through outside breather. However, a moderately driven engine, making only short runs now and then, and seldom thoroughly warmed up, is likely to accumulate an increasing amount of water in oil tank. This water will, in freezing weather, become slush or ice and, if allowed to accumulate too long, may block oil lines with resulting damage to engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time, forms a heavy sludge of considerable acid content that is very harmful to bearings and other internal engine parts. To sum it up briefly, an engine that is used only for short runs during freezing weather requires frequent oil changes along with thorough flushing of tank to remove any accumulated sludge.

(9) Transmission Filler Opening. Check oil level in transmission case every 250 miles and add engine oil as necessary to bring level up to filler opening. If motorcycle is run unusually long distances, inspect more frequently. Motorcycle must be on rear stand in straight upright position when checking oil level or filling transmission case. Use same grade of oil used in engine, summer, and winter. If gear shifting difficulty is caused by oil congealing in extremely cold weather, thin oil with small amount of kerosene or dry‐cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 miles, drain and refill transmission to level of transmission filler plug opening with specified grade of engine oil. Transmission holds ¾ pint of oil. To drain transmission case remove filler plug and lay motorcycle on right side. CAUTION: Do not leave motorcycle on side longer than two minutes.

(10) Drive Chains.

(a) Front and rear drive chains are automatically supplied with lubrication by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more often if operating conditions are extremely severe) inspect front primary drive chain for adequate lubrication ([fig. 36]).

(b) At every 1,000‐mile period rear drive chain should have additional lubrication as follows: Remove chain, wash thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent and hang it up to dry. Then soak chain in SAE 10 engine oil for a short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into all chain bearings. Drain chain and wipe off excess oil. Install rear chain (par. [63]). (This attention is not required by front chain.) Readjustment of chain oilers must be made only by organization mechanic (par. [61]). CAUTION: Inspect frequently and make sure that rear chain oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent or damaged.

d. Before Applying Lubricant. Always wipe dirt from the lubrication fittings or plugs so that dirt will not enter with the lubricant. Lubricate all chassis points after washing vehicle or after vehicle has been operated in streams or extremely muddy or slushy roads. CAUTION: It is extremely important that high‐pressure cleaning streams or steam should not be directed against ends of wheel hubs, brake side cover bearings, air cleaner, handle bar grips, or electrical system. To do so will seriously affect correct lubrication and functioning of these parts.

e. Oilcan Points. All brake, transmission, and clutch control points not fitted with grease connections should be lubricated with engine oil. Front brake control cable, spark, and throttle control wires must be oiled at the ends of their respective housings, especially after washing vehicle, or after operating it in wet weather. Keep battery terminal felt washers saturated with engine oil to prevent corrosion of connections.

f. Warning Light. Action of the engine oil feed pump is indicated by red signal light in instrument panel. Rider must be thoroughly familiar with operating characteristics of this signal light, to judge condition of engine oil circulating system (par. [7 f]).

Section VI
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STOWAGE ON THE VEHICLE

RA PD 310208
Figure 11—Vehicle Tools

21. VEHICLE TOOLS ([fig. 11]).

a. Kits. Included in the tool kit assembly are the following:

*EXCEPTION: Earlier models furnished with smaller tool roll and kit contain the items marked by asterisk.

22. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT (figs. [12] and [13]).

a. Attached to Vehicle.

RA PD 310216
Figure 12—Vehicle Equipment, Left Side

RA PD 310217
Figure 13—Vehicle Equipment, Right Side

RA PD 310209
Figure 14—Vehicle Spare Parts

23. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS ([fig. 14]).

[3]a. Spare Parts.

[3] EXCEPTION: No spare parts kit supplied with earlier models. Rear chain repair link only spare part furnished.

PART TWO—VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

Section VII
MAINTENANCE ALLOCATION

24. SCOPE.

a. The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other units of the using arms is determined by the availability of suitable tools, availability of necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics, time available, and the tactical situation. All of these are variable and no exact system of procedure can be prescribed.

25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE.

a. Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools and parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance personnel. Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of ordnance maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel when circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander concerned. Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance allocations are defined as follows:

NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the echelon indicated by X.
(2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E may be performed by these units in emergencies only.
(3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the fourth echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so by the chief of the service concerned.

4 The second echelon is authorized to remove and reinstall items marked by an asterisk. However, when it is necessary to replace an item marked by an asterisk with a new or rebuilt part, subassembly or unit assembly, the assembly marked by an asterisk may be removed from the vehicle by the second echelon only after authority has been obtained from a higher echelon of maintenance.

Section VIII
SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

26. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES.

a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.

(1) Frequency. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance services outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions such as extreme temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be necessary to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.

(2) First Echelon Participation. The drivers should accompany their vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be dry, and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection and servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should not be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of defects, such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies are more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.

(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general procedures in paragraph ([4]) or the specific procedures in paragraph ([5]) which follow, are required for the correct performance of a preventive maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency, other sections of the vehicle operator’s manual pertaining to the item involved, or a designated individual in authority, should be consulted.

(4) General Procedures. These general procedures are basic instructions which are to be followed when performing the services on the items listed in the specific procedures. The second echelon personnel must be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they will apply them automatically.

(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, correctly installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted.

(b) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the seal.

(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the following explanations of these terms:

1. The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.

2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” is usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in its normal assembled position in the vehicle.

3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for looseness; such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.

4. “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

(d) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in one or both columns opposite a Tighten procedure, means that the actual tightening of the object must be performed. The special services include:

1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, or other current directives.

2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry‐cleaning solvent to remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean dry‐cleaning solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, and be certain to keep dry‐cleaning solvent away from rubber or other material which it will damage. Clean the protective grease coating from new parts, since this material is not a good lubricant.

3. Special lubrication. This applies both to lubrication operations that do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items that do appear on such guides, but should be performed in connection with the maintenance operations, if parts have to be disassembled for inspection or service.

4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations, such as replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units with oil.

5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with sufficient wrench‐torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the nut according to good mechanical practice. Use torque‐indicating wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads, or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins provided to secure the tightening.

(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete preventive maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the task if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must be utilized, if necessary, to assure that maintenance operations are completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special services in the columns should be given first consideration.

(f) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow are identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. Certain items on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle are not included in the procedures in this manual. In general, the numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is followed in the manual procedures, but in some instances there is deviation for conservation of the mechanic’s time and effort.

(5) Specific Procedures. The procedures for performing each item in the 1,000‐mile maintenance procedures are described in the following chart. Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge corresponding to the 1,000‐mile maintenance.

ROAD TEST

Section IX
ORGANIZATION TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

27. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.

a. Refer to SNL–N 19 for common hand tools available to second echelon.

b. Refer to list given below for all special tools available to second echelon.

Section X
TROUBLE SHOOTING

28. INTRODUCTION.

a. Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this section. The engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a system affecting engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To trace trouble to one or more defective components of a system, it is necessary to refer to the pertinent paragraph of this section when the defective system or systems have been located in the engine trouble shooting paragraph.

b. The material given in this section applies to the operation of the vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of temperature occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has prepared his vehicle for use for the conditions encountered.

29. ENGINE.

a. Instruction. This subparagraph traces troubles to a system affecting engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine tests to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References in step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles, or to pertinent paragraphs in this section for system troubles, or when a test indicates a special unit is faulty, to the pertinent paragraph in this manual.

(1) Engine Does Not Turn Over When Foot Starter Is Operated.

(a) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. [48]).

(b) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. [65]).

(c) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use proper grade of oil.

(d) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel.

(e) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic.

(2) Engine Turns Over When Cranked but Does Not Start.

(a) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve.

(b) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.

(c) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph [31].

(d) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph [32].

(e) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph [34].

(f) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below.

(3) Weak Compression. Refer to step b below for test.

(a) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. [43]).

(b) Valves sticking. Use dry‐cleaning solvent to free valve stems in guides.

(c) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph [20].

(d) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head bolts or replace gasket (par. [41]).

(4) Overheating.

(a) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph [31].

(b) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on cylinder head.

(c) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph [30].

(d) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph [32].

(e) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute.

(f) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for test, to paragraph [43] for adjustment.

(g) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. [59] and [60]).

(h) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic.

(5) Lack of Power.

(a) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph [31].

(b) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph [32].

(c) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above.

(d) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph [30].

(e) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above.

(f) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. [59] and [60]).

(g) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. [96] and [97]).

(6) Popping and Spitting Through Carburetor.

(a) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor. Drain and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl.

(b) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step b (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. [43]). (c) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph [32].

(d) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph [31].

(e) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority.

(7) Spark Knock.

(a) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph [32].

(b) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below.

(c) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph [31].

(d) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph [30].

(8) Pounding and Excessive Metallic Noise.

(a) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph [36].

(b) Engine sprocket loose on shaft.

(c) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. [43]).

(d) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten.

(e) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. [60]).

(f) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust.

(g) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization mechanic.

b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.

(1) Rings and Valves. This is a simple compression test. If possible, make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must be off. Crank engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter crank. Engine compression should sustain the weight of an average size rider several seconds before crank passes through complete range of its travel. If engine offers little resistance to starter crank in testing either or both cylinders, it is an indication that compression is not adequate in one or both cylinders. No clearance or insufficient clearance at valve tappets; valves sticking in guides; valves seating poorly; cylinder heads leaking; spark plugs loose in heads; piston rings badly worn and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly worn, or lack of lubrication could cause the above condition. Make external checks first: See that oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and examine around cylinder heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In extremely cold weather, resistance to the starter crank is increased by “stiff” oil in engine and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this condition to indicate actual engine compression.

(2) Abnormal Engine Noise. Owing to constructional design of the motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components is necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because simple tune‐up service and correct adjustment of components have been neglected. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding is usually caused by excessively loose front and rear drive chains, or by a transmission being loose in its frame mounting. Fast idling of engine with the front drive chain too loose, may give the false impression that the engine bearings and pistons need replacement service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will cause a pounding noise similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If front drive chain is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a grinding noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough engine performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding, and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent noise, result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give insufficient gear‐tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case.

30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM.

a. Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal light located in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is normally grounded by the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure is built up several pounds, diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) Action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is indicated (engine running) by oil dripping from ¹⁄₈–inch hole in oil return tube (large tube) inside oil tank, just back of oil gage rod (dip stick) tube. Since the oil feed pump and scavenger pump are separate units, operated individually, it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to function alone, thus affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil to the tank. Action of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the oil tank is of a “breather” nature; its function not being indicated in any manner. Before attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating system, rider must be familiar with and understand indications by instrument panel signal lights (par. [7 f]).

b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light Switch is Turned On.

(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch and wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order. See that wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure switch terminal. Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates that either the lamp is burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty.

(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it indicates that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced. If light does not burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is burned out. Remove panel cover (par. [119]) and replace lamp.

c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is Operated Above Idling Speeds.

(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine is warm, or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made to locate trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication system, or fault in signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first.

(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit. Remove wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition and light switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short circuit in wiring exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal condition, leaving oil pressure switch of the signal circuit to be tested.

(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal light goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it indicates trouble in oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light continues to burn, it indicates trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump (par. [44]).

d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues from Gear Case Breather Outlet. This is an indication that the scavenger pump is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to tank. With engine running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank. Remove tank oil cap, and with a small flashlight (tactical situation permitting), observe whether or not oil is dripping from ¹⁄₈–inch hole in oil return tube. Hole is on under side of tube and is located just back of oil gage rod tube. If observation is poor, place finger over hole and feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not return to tank, scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather valve be incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below for this condition.

e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports (where exhaust pipes enter cylinders). Engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are one unit, operated by worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion gear. Although scavenger pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve which drives it must be timed to balance the engine lubricating system. If for any reason the scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base, the breather valve must be retimed (within the gear case) when pump assembly is replaced. Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil past piston rings, causing some smoke, besides forcing oil out through exhaust ports, causing excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes where they enter cylinder ports.

31. FUEL SYSTEM.

a. Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air‐fuel system are, in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any but the obviously required adjustments, check the ignition system thoroughly. Gasoline tank supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its operation is explained in paragraph [5 b].

b. Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at strainer, open valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line is plugged, remove, clean out, and replace.

c. Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par. [72]).

d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water in Fuel. Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl, and replace screw. Take care not to cross drain screw threads when replacing. If there is still evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign matter after bowl is drained, replace carburetor (pars. [70] and [71]). Remove air cleaner oil cup and inspect for evidence of water in oil. Drain, clean, refill to correct level mark, and replace cup. Should above procedure fail to eliminate trouble, drain fuel tank by removing drain plug located under tank in forward position. Replace drain plug and refill tank with fuel.

e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds. Carburetor low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. [68]). Carburetor high speed circuit is controlled by a fixed jet.

f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment: Lean Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds. Carburetors in service for some time become dirty and crust forms in the throttle barrel, making satisfactory low speed adjustment difficult, if not impossible. Replace carburetor (pars. [70] and [71]).

g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor. Evidence of dirt in float valve, incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor (pars. [70] and [71]).

h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich. Air cleaner oil cup overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking off adequate air supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil cup level is correct, remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par. [76]).

32. IGNITION SYSTEM.

a. When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most obvious and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and light switch, observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then check to see that current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. Faulty spark plugs are responsible for the great majority of engine ignition troubles. There is no service for spark plugs other than sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment of electrodes. Questionable spark plugs must be replaced (par. [83]).

b. Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system ( [fig. 48]).

c. Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter pedal, and observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points. Correct point gap when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam is 0.022 inch. For adjustment refer to paragraph [84].

d. Testing for High Tension Spark. Spark at plug gaps depends upon condition and operation of circuit breaker points, condition of condenser, and condition of spark coil and high‐tension cables. Testing the ignition system is best done by means of elimination, testing each unit by replacement until trouble is located; then replacing serviceable units which were removed.

(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high‐tension current); turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn ignition and light switch on; hold high tension cable terminal ¼ inch from cylinder; open and close circuit breaker points with finger and observe spark jump at gap. If spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition primary and secondary circuits are complete.

(2) No spark at high‐tension gap calls for testing of primary and secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open; hold cable end ¼ inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with the bit of a screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker movable (lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained at high‐tension cable terminal gap when ground connection made by screwdriver is broken, clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. [84]).

(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or a very weak spark) occurs at high‐tension gap, replace condenser (par. [85]) and repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser does not remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. [89]).

(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and ignition trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser, and spark coil must be replaced with new units and engine road test made with each replacement until trouble has been located and remedied.

e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard, Overheats or Misses. Clearly an indication that spark plugs are faulty. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between 0.028 inch to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with new ones of correct (No. 2) heat range (par. [83]).

f. Engine Misses After Warm‐up, or When Quite Hot. Replacement of spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not, then either the condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser first (par. [85]). If new condenser fails to correct trouble, replace spark coil (par. [89]).

33. GENERATING SYSTEM.

a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles per Hour. Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery and generator. Refer to [figure 55]. Inspect condition of relay and, if necessary, replace (par. [95]). Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. [91]). If brushes are sticking in holders or badly worn, replace generator (pars. [93] and [94]).

b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although Green Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory. Test battery: if it will not hold charge, or is defective, replace (par. [113]). If the machine is used most of the time for night operation, have a higher echelon increase the generating charging rate. Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. [91]). If brushes are badly worn or sticking in holders, replace generator (pars. [93] and [94]).

34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On. Examine each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. [120]). Examine battery; if discharged, replace (par. [113]). Remedy defective wiring and connections ([fig. 71]). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par. [116]). Test blackout light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace lamp (par. [114]).

b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine Is Accelerated. Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully charged, replace (par. [113]). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and switches in circuit ([fig. 73]). If the battery runs down again after a short period of operation, have the generator output increased (refer to a higher echelon).

c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating Engine. Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. [113]). Remedy faulty wiring and connections ([fig. 73]). Do not forget the ground connection of the lamp body.

d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to Light. If the unit is burned out, replace it (par. [115]). If the brake pedal is not operating switch, remedy the faulty operation. Remedy all faulty wiring and connections ([fig. 73]).

e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is Turned On and Horn Button Is Pressed. Test battery by turning on lights. If lights are dim, replace battery (par. [113]). Remedy defective wiring and connections ([fig. 73]). If the horn does not respond to adjustment, replace (par. [117]).

35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH.

a. Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by clutch slipping under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift hard and clash) when in disengaged position. In either case, the first thing to be checked is adjustment of controls; this being the attention usually needed. Indication that gear shifter controls are in need of adjustment is when transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when accelerating vehicle or when under heavy pull. CAUTION: This warning must not be disregarded.

(1) Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged. Adjust clutch control (par. [48]). Adjust clutch spring tension (par. [48]). If the clutch still slips, replace either the disks, springs, or both (par. [48]).

(2) Clutch Drags When Fully Disengaged. Adjust control (par. 48). Adjust spring tension (par. [48]).

(3) Clutch Rattles When in Disengaged Position, Engine Idling. In this case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to paragraph [51 a].

(4) Transmission “Jumps” Out of Gear Upon Accelerating Vehicle, or When Under Heavy Pull. Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par. [54]).

(5) Transmission Gears Shift Hard or Clash When Clutch is Fully Disengaged. Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. [48]). Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight (pars. [57] and [58]). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant ([fig. 10]). If the above methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a higher authority.

36. WHEELS AND CHAINS.

a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth. Adjust the position of the rear wheel axle to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission sprocket (par. [60]). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of alinement, and the trouble must be referred to a higher authority.

b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and Vehicle on Rear Stand. If either chain is adjusted too tight, adjust to proper tension (pars. [59] and [60]). Examine both chains for presence of dirt and grit. If dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. [20 c (10)]). If either chain is dry, adjust chain oilers (par. [61]). Badly worn chains and sprockets will cause this symptom; the worn parts must be replaced (pars. [62] and [63]).

c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance. The chain in this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication. Adjust chain oiler (par. [61]). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil, replace (par. [62]).

d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed. Chains are too loose. Adjust (pars. [59] and [60]).

e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel. Adjust bearing cones (par. [126]). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn, replace wheel (par. [125]).

f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (not in brake). The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. [125]).

g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel. The hub bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. [127]).

h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on Axle. The thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel (par. [127]).

i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (chain removed). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If this does not correct noise, replace wheel (par. [127]).

37. BRAKES.

a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed. If the brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight pressure to the brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the linings adjust brake rod length (par. [96 b]). If the brake operating lever stands ahead of the vertical position with brake applied, or the brake does not hold, replace the defective brake shoes (par. [96]).

b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used. Tighten side plate sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par. [96]). If the operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, replace the assembly (par. [96]). If the brake shoe spring is defective, replace (par. [96]). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn, or defective, replace shoes (par. [96]). If the brake drum is worn or damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. [96]).

c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand). Adjust linkage (par. [96]). If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and adjust linkage (par. [96]).

d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated. Adjust brake control (par. [97]). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a short distance with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings. If brake does not hold, replace shoes (par. [97]).

e. Front Brake Drags. Adjust control linkage (par. [97]). If brake still drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par. [97]).

f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters. Adjust control linkage assembly (par. [97]). If malfunction continues, examine brake shoes, shoe spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing. Replace any defective parts or assemblies (par. [97]).

38. STEERING.

a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side. Inspect and correct alinement of rear wheel (par. [60]). If the front forks are bent or twisted, replace (par. [98]). If trouble persists, refer to higher authority.

b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires to correct pressure. Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If the steering head bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check the steering head bearings (par. [98]), and adjust if necessary.

c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed. Inflate tires to correct pressure. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If the tire tread is unevenly worn, and shifting tires does not correct the condition, replace the defective casings. Make sure the axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are badly worn, or the fork springs are broken, replace (par. [98]).

Section XI
ENGINE

39. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.

a. Description. This 2‐cylinder, V‐type, air‐cooled gasoline engine of L‐head design operates on the 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle principle. Flywheel and connecting rod assemblies operate on roller bearings. Engine is fitted with low‐expansion aluminum alloy, cam‐ground, horizontally slotted pistons and with deep‐finned aluminum cylinder heads. As viewed from left side of vehicle (drive chain side), rotation of engine is counterclockwise.

b. Lubrication system is of dry‐sump type, in which oil supply is maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a supply feed pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating system plays a most important part in cooling the engine as well as lubricating it.

c. Data.

40. TUNE‐UP.

a. Tune‐up consists of making correct adjustment to valve tappets, circuit breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes: checking and correcting ignition timing; draining and flushing carburetor bowl; cleaning and flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning muffler outlet, servicing air cleaner, and adjusting carburetor.

(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. [43]).

(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. [84]).

(3) Spark plug service (par. [83]).

(4) Timing ignition (par. [86]).

(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. [73]).

(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. [72]).

(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits, caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable tool. Do not enlarge outlet size when cleaning.

(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. [76]).

(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. [68]).

A—CYLINDER BRACKET SPACERS AND WASHERS
B—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME BOLT
C—CYLINDER UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET
D—SPARK CABLE CLIP
E—CYLINDER BRACKET BOLTS
F—OIL RETURN PIPE CONNECTION HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHERS

RA PD 315711
Figure 15—Disassembly for Head Gasket Replacement

41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET ([fig. 15]).

a. Removal. Refer to [figure 15], illustrating necessary parts and units to be removed to perform this operation.

(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. [119]).

(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. [107]).

(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free clamp which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention to shim washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as these washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head.

(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs.

(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41–W–1525. NOTE: On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095–inch thick), in addition to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to prevent cylinder head bolts from bottoming.

(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph [42].

b. Installing Gasket and Head ([fig. 15]).

(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil to both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on cylinder.

(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095–inch thick plain washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth of bolt holes in cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch must use the 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers. Head having bolt hole depth of 1¹⁄₁₆ inch does not require the 0.095–inch thick washers.

(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special (spool‐shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between cylinder heads and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of each long cylinder bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat washers between the spacers and the bracket.

(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint. Use head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, first turning down bolts just snug, then tightening each bolt ¹⁄₈ to ¼ turn at a time, until all are securely tightened. If torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts to 60 foot‐pounds minimum, 65 foot‐pounds maximum tension when engine is cold.

42. CARBON REMOVAL.

a. At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement, carbon must be removed from head only.

43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT ([fig. 16]).

a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold. Before loosening valve spring covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each cover will facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing.

(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench 41–W–3617.

(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead until like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being adjusted) in the other cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet valves are located nearest the carburetor manifold.

RA PD 310211
Figure 16—Valve Tappet Adjustment

(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” [fig. 16]) slightly before turning adjusting screw ([fig. 16]).

(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004–inch minimum, and 0.005–inch maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” [fig. 16]). Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.

(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006–inch minimum, and 0.007–inch maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.

(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring covers.

RA PD 315712
Figure 17—Oil Pump Removed

44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP ([fig. 17]).

a. Removal.

(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on tank nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect oil feed pipe from oil pump nipple.

(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back where they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and nuts, remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care not to damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket concerning both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A “homemade” gasket may put oiling system completely out of commission.

b. Installing Oil Pump.

(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body.

(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with and drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor.

(3) Insert hexagon‐head bolt and lock washer, and install the three lock washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting studs. Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from which they were originally removed.

(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely.

(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple. Tighten nipple nuts securely.

Section XII
ENGINE—REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

45. REMOVE ENGINE (figs. [18], [19], and [20]).

a. A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of the steps necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut methods, as this would consume more time and possibly cause damage to parts or unit assemblies.

(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right side of vehicle.

(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right side of rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer.

(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety guard. Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from front support rod, freeing footboard and brake assembly for removal.

(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate ([fig. 37]).

(5) Remove muffler (par. [81]).

(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank feed pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect pipe from oil pump and remove oil pipe.

(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free control housing clamp at cylinder base.

(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank.

(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also green wire from generator terminal.

(10) Remove spark plugs.

(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay particular attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head bracket and frame lug; these will have to be installed in the original position.

(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter rod.

RA PD 315713

A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

B—SPARK CONTROL WIRE AND HOUSING

C—ENGINE SPROCKET, KEY, NUT AND FRONT DRIVE CHAIN

D—ENGINE SPROCKET SHAFT

E—REAR SUPPORT ROD

F—INNER CHAIN GUARD

G—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

H—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN

J—SPARK COIL REAR TERMINAL NUT, WASHER AND SCREW

K—OUTER CHAIN GUARD

L—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

M—AIR CLEANER HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING SCREWS

N—ENGINE LEFT REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLT CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

O—REAR SUPPORT ROD EXTENDED NUT

P—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS

Q—FUEL PIPE AND STRAINER ASSEMBLY

R—ENGINE LEFT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN

S—GEAR SHIFTER AND ROD ATTACHING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

T—TANK, LOWER FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT

U—ENGINE SPROCKET NUT WRENCH

RA PD 315713B
Figure 18—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Left Side

RA PD 315714

A—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS AND NUTS

B—SKID PLATE

C—STOP LIGHT SWITCH

D—REAR BRAKE ROD FRONT END

E—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME MOUNTING BOLT, SPACING WASHERS, SPARK CABLE CLIP AND NUT

F—ENGINE RIGHT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

G—RELAY TERMINAL SCREWS AND WASHERS

H—SAFETY GUARD END

J—RIGHT FOOTBOARD, BRAKE PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

K—FRONT EXHAUST PIPE CLAMP, BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

L—EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY

M—SPARK PLUGS AND GASKETS

N—REAR SUPPORT ROD, WASHER AND NUT

O—BRAKE ROD BELLCRANK

P—ENGINE REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN

Q—OIL FEED PIPE

R—VENT PIPE HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHER

S—VENT PIPE

T—OIL RETURN PIPE

RA PD 315714B
Figure 19—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Right Side

(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and fuel filter nipple.

(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever.

(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor (four screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from mounting bracket (par. [78]).

RA PD 310215
Figure 20—Removing Engine

(16) Remove front chain guard (par. [102]).

(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. [65]).

(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to crankcase.

(19) With ¹³⁄₁₆–inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from right side of vehicle.

(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding ground from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light wire from oil pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free air cleaner mounting bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to coil rear shielding ground terminal.

(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts. Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this bolt cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up far enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame.

(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame.

46. INSTALL ENGINE (figs. [18], [19], and [20]).

a. Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following procedure because checking and adjustment of controls and other items is necessary to satisfactory vehicle operation.

(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug.

(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle nuts. Fit plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator. Securely tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins.

(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal.

(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal.

(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side of vehicle and install the extended ¹³⁄₁₆–inch nut.

(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into screw slots for security.

(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that engine shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place before tightening sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench.

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. [102]).

(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers, and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four screws securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: If cleaner frame bracket was loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals, securely mount bracket before installing air cleaner assembly.

(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that throttle opens fully when grip is turned inward.

(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for leaks.

(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening bolt and nut.

(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to frame lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims, together with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between bracket and frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: Frame lug must be free from paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with plated shims and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding.

(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. [83]). Replace gaskets to ensure tight joints.

(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram ([fig. 73]).

(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and secure with cotter pin.

(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that spark advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle bar) is turned inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip is turned outward. Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever connection.

(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil pump.

(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket bolt, but do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located on this bolt.

(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and muffler front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid plate left side bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt and nut.

(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly. Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing lock washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to sidebar. Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front support rod nut. Attach right end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard front support stud. Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten footboard rear support stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to brake foot pedal.

(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure with cotter pin.

(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle.

b. Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, and see that oil is in tank before starting engine.

Section XIII
CLUTCH

47. DESCRIPTION ([fig. 21]).

a. Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel disks and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within disk pack to “cushion” clutch operation.

48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. [22], [23], [24], and [25]).

a. If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension before correcting control adjustment.

b. Clutch Control Linkage ([fig. 22]). Operation of foot pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod through hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at will. Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be made before push rod adjustment is made.

c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. [23], [24], [25], and [26]).

(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With clutch in fully disengaged position (foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by ¹⁄₁₆ inch. Should clutch release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control cable must be adjusted to obtain ¹⁄₁₆–inch clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal stud (figs. [23] and [24]). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position, remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear (heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud. Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever notch.

A—CLUTCH HUB COMPLETE, WITH LINER, BEARING, STUDS, ETC.

B—HUB DISK LINING.

C—LINING RIVET (6 USED).

D—PIN (7 USED).

E—STUD.

F—SPROCKET COMPLETE WITH DISK SPLINE RING.

G—LINED DISKS (2 USED).

H—PLAIN STEEL DISKS (2 USED).

J—SPRUNG STEEL DISK WITH ONE LINING.

K—RELEASING DISK (WITH PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW AND ADJUSTING SCREW).

L—CLUTCH SPRINGS (10 USED).

M—STUD NUT LOCKING WASHER (3 USED).

N—STUD NUT (3 USED).

O—SPRING COMPRESSION COLLAR.

P—PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW.

Q—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT.

R—RETAINING PLATE LOCK RING (3 USED).

S—BEARING RETAINING PLATE.

T—60 7/32–INCH STEEL BALLS.

U—BALL BEARING RETAINER.

RA PD 310218
Figure 21—Clutch, Disassembled

RA PD 310219
Figure 22—Clutch Control Linkage

RA PD 310220
Figure 23—Clutch Lever and Stud Nut Clearance

RA PD 310221
Figure 24—Control Cable Length Adjustment

RA PD 315715
Figure 25—Clutch Adjustments

(2) Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod ([fig. 25]). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance correctly adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have between ¹⁄₈–inch and ¼–inch free play at end where control cable engages lever notch ([fig. 25]). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch without pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means of push rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two screws which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard ([fig. 25]). If clutch release lever has less than ¹⁄₈–inch free play at end of cable, loosen push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting screw to the left (counter‐clockwise) to increase amount of free play. If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch free play at end of cable, turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained. Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: If end of clutch release lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, and eventually become damaged.

RA PD 310223
Figure 26—Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension

d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension ([fig. 26]). If clutch slips (does not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) after controls have been correctly adjusted (step c (1) and (3) above), spring tension must be increased. NOTE: Do not increase spring tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. [102]).

(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.

(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension. Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn of the three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the road.

(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged locks.

(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of outer (releasing) disk is 1–3/32 inches ([fig. 27]). In any case, do not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer (releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully disengaged.

RA PD 310224
Figure 27—Measuring Distance Between Spring Collar and Disk

(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be replaced (par. [49]).

(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front chain guard (par. [102]).

49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. [28], [29], and [30]).

a. Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating, and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced if necessary (par. [50]).

RA PD 315716
Figure 28—Removing Spring and Outer Disk Assembly

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. [102]).

(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat washer, approximately ¹⁄₈–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ⅜–inch center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw lock nut just removed ([fig. 28]). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut against large washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined and plain steel disks can now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell unit without further disassembly ([fig. 30]). NOTE: At time lined and plain disks are removed from shell, observe relative position of each disk in order of correct assembly.

50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.

a. Worn Disk Liners. When disk liners are worn down flush (or nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be replaced.

RA PD 315717
Figure 29—Outer Assembly Removed, Exposing Clutch Disks

RA PD 315718
Figure 30—Clutch Disks, Removed

b. Loose Liner Rivets. If disk liner rivets are loose, replace disk and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.

c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners. If lined disks are not badly worn, but are oil‐soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and dry with air or heat.

d. Shrunken or Weak Springs. If clutch has been badly overheated as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or weakened condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened springs are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been tightened to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring collar and releasing (outer) disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak springs are suspected, remove them for inspection.

(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) disk assembly.

(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs is approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). Old springs found to be shrunk ¹⁄₈ inch (total free length of spring is 1⅜ inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: Before replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 inch to make up the assembly.

(3) Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar. Place the 10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each of the 10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends of springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a ⅜–inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly.

51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. [30], [29], and [28]).

a. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a lined disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices are staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined on one side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel disk. Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock rings (“R,” [fig. 21]) are in place on the short studs, and are tight against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch.

(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.

(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.

(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.

(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side facing outward.

(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on clutch hub studs.

(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch ([fig. 27]).

(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been installed.

RA PD 315719
Figure 31—Removing Clutch Releasing Bearing Assembly

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. [102]).

(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct according to paragraph [48.]

52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING ([fig. 31]).

a. Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push rod assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.

b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing. Engage clutch fully (foot pedal toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from slotted end of clutch release lever.

(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to transmission countershaft sprocket cover.

(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.

(3) Remove filler plug.

(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.

(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release bearing is exposed.

(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from transmission shaft.

c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.

(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is clean and well greased.

(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.

(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover.

(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release lever.

(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.

Section XIV
TRANSMISSION

53. DESCRIPTION.

a. Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and is of the constant‐mesh, non‐selective type. High gear is direct drive. Since “dogs” on gear shifter clutches are used to engage transmission gears, it is of great importance that vehicle clutch is correctly adjusted. Clutch must be fully disengaged when shifting gears, to prevent clashing of gears, and possible damage to the shifter clutch “dogs” and transmission gears. It is also important that gear shifter control linkage be kept in correct adjustment to ensure full engagement of shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus preventing possible damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement under driving load. Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within the transmission, necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in transmission case for adequate lubrication.

54. CONTROL LINKAGE ([fig. 32]).

a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain. The transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive chain and transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and is movable on its mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive chain. When front (engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear shifter control linkage is affected. Therefore, after each front drive chain adjustment, gear shifter control linkage must be checked, and, if necessary, correctly adjusted to ensure proper gear shifting with full engagement of the gear shifter clutch driving “dogs” as well as prevent transmission from jumping out of gear under load.

b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage. Before making adjustment to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks: See that all linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to gear shifter hand lever are well oiled and free‐working. Check hand lever pivot bolt nut for tightness. Observe whether there is binding or interference with shifter rod at any point in the shifting range; this sometimes results from a bent snifter rod. Check whether or not shifter rod is correctly adjusted so that when hand lever is moved to any gear position in tank shifter guide, transmission lever moves to the proper position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and shifter cam spring plunger in cam‐locating notch (inside transmission).

RA PD 310229
Figure 32—Adjusting Gear Shifter Rod

c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage ([fig. 32]).

(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide.

(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever.

(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully “feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam‐locating notch.

(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in tank shifter guide.

(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole lines up with bolt hole in hand lever.

(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut.

(7) Check Adjustment. It is advisable to shift hand lever into “L” (low) and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod adjustment to be sure of having best all‐round adjustment.

(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter control linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and referred to higher authority for service.

55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank.

(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft.

b. Install. In installing foot starter crank, notch (for clamp‐bolt clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to put return spring tension on crank.

(1) Use a ⁵⁄₈–inch, open‐end wrench and turn square shaft counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position and press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted.

(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated.

(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely.

56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING ([fig. 33]).

a. Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of countershaft sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed without removing sprocket cover.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. [55]).

(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of spring off stud. NOTE: If spring is broken, this operation will not be necessary. Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of sprocket cover so as to pull spring off square shaft.

c. Install.

(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position. Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to rear, in line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto shaft, prying it to rear to clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft.

RA PD 315720
Figure 33—Removing Starter Crank Spring

(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud.

(3) Install foot starter crank (par. [55]).

57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION (figs. [34] and [35]).

a. Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and must be removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in transmission, check clutch adjustment (par. [48]) and transmission control linkage (par. [54]) before replacing a faulty unit.

RA PD 315721

A—TOOL BOX AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

B—BATTERY

C—BATTERY BOX REAR MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, FITTINGS AND NUTS

D—BATTERY BOX ASSEMBLY AND COVER

E—BATTERY BOX FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT

F—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

G—FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTING SCREW

H—TRANSMISSION MOUNTING STUD NUTS AND WASHERS

J—REAR CHAIN OILER PIPE

K—REAR CHAIN GUARD FRONT MOUNTING BOLT AND WASHERS

L—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUTS

M—REAR BRAKE ROD ASSEMBLY, WASHER AND COTTER PIN

N—REAR CHAIN GUARD

O—REAR BRAKE CLEVIS PIN, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

RA PD 315721B
Figure 34—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Right Side

b. Remove.

(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. [111]).

(2) Remove front chain guard (par. [102]).

(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. [80]). Lower bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on left side.

(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. [65]).

(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free inner front chain guard.

(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. [106]). Remove bracket from frame.

(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. [96]).

(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. [63]).

(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. [102]). Remove rear chain oiler pipe after disconnecting at oil pump.

(10) Remove battery box (par. [105]).

(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating cable end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube assembly.

(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and at transmission gear shifter lever.

(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove lock washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting screw.

(14) Loosen upper U‐bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the lower U‐bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible toward the front.

(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket; then rotate top of transmission backward about ¼ turn ([fig. 34]) and remove unit from left side of frame ([fig. 35]).

58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. [34] and [35]).

a. Install from Left Side. Working from left side of frame, tilt top of transmission backward, and as unit passes into position, rotate top forward, until unit is squarely in position and mounting studs pass through slots in frame mounting bracket.

(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and tighten U‐bolt nuts.

RA PD 315722
Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of Vehicle

A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

B—ENGINE SPROCKET, NUT, KEY AND FRONT CHAIN

C—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS

D—INNER CHAIN GUARD

E—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

F—OUTER CHAIN GUARD

G—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN

H—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

J—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

K—SPARK COIL LOWER MOUNTING U‐BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

L—CLUTCH CABLE AND HOUSING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS

M—GEAR SHIFTER ROD ASSEMBLY WITH ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS, PIN AND NUT

RA PD 315722B
Legend for Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of Vehicle

(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage screw in frame notch.

(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten.

(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and transmission gear shifter lever.

(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable end to clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame bracket and install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place.

(6) Install battery box (par. [105]).

(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. [102]).

(8) Install rear drive chain (par. [63]).

(9) Install rear brake rod (par. [96]).

(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. [106]).

(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock into screw slot for security.

(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. [65]).

(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. [59]).

(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts.

(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. [102]). Connect rear chain oiler pipe to oil pump.

(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and connections (par. [79]).

(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts.

(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage (par. [54]).

(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par. [60]).

(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake linkage (par. [96]).

(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. [48]).

(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to filler opening (vehicle standing upright).

Section XV
CHAINS AND SPROCKETS

59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN (figs. [36], [37], and [38]).

a. At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. [61]).

b. Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making tight and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and chain rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.

c. A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action and/or strike the chain guard.

d. Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on its mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain.

e. How to Adjust Front Chain.

(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover from front outer chain guard, exposing chain ([fig. 36]).

(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with finger. Use a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test.