(Forest Service, U.S.D.A., by John Whiteside)
COVER: Redondo Peak, from Jemez Canyon

Scenic Trips to the Geologic Past Series:

No. 1—Santa Fe, New Mexico No. 2—Taos—Red River—Eagle Nest, New Mexico, Circle Drive No. 3—Roswell—Capitan—Ruidoso and Bottomless Lakes State Park, New Mexico No. 4—Southern Zuni Mountains, New Mexico No. 5—Silver City—Santa Rita—Hurley, New Mexico No. 6—Trail Guide to Geology of the Upper Pecos, New Mexico No. 7—High Plains Northeastern New Mexico, Raton—Capulin Mountain—Clayton No. 8—Mosaic of New Mexico’s Scenery, Rocks, and History No. 9—Albuquerque—Its Mountains, Valleys, Water, and Volcanoes No. 10—Southwestern New Mexico No. 11—Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad No. 12—The Story of Mining in New Mexico No. 13—Española—Chama—Taos

(Forest Service, U.S.D.A., by Robert W. Talbott)
Whitewater Canyon near Glenwood

SCENIC TRIPS TO THE GEOLOGIC PAST
NO. 8

Mosaic of New Mexico’s
Scenery, Rocks, and History

edited by
PAIGE W. CHRISTIANSEN
and
FRANK E. KOTTLOWSKI

NEW MEXICO BUREAU OF MINES AND MINERAL RESOURCES
1972

NEW MEXICO INSTITUTE OF MINING & TECHNOLOGY
Kenneth W. Ford, President

NEW MEXICO BUREAU OF MINES & MINERAL RESOURCES
Frank E. Kottlowski, Director
George S. Austin, Deputy Director

BOARD OF REGENTS
Ex Officio
Bruce King, Governor of New Mexico
Leonard DeLayo, Superintendent of Public Instruction

Appointed
Steve Torres, President, 1967-1985, Socorro
Dave Rice, Secretary-Treasurer, 1972-1983, Carlsbad
William G. Abbott, 1961-1985, Hobbs
Judy Floyd, 1977-1987, Las Cruces
Owen Lopez, 1977-1983, Santa Fe

BUREAU STAFF
Full Time

Marla D. Adkins, Assistant Editor Orin J. Anderson, Geologist Ruben Archuleta, Technician I Robert A. Bieberman, Senior Petrol. Geologist Steve Blodgett, Assistant Editor Lynn A. Brandvold, Chemist James Brannan, Drafter Corale Brierley, Chemical Microbiologist Ron Broadhead, Petroleum Geologist Brenda R. Broadwell, Assoc. Lab Geoscientist Jane A. Calvert, Assistant Editor Frank Campbell, Coal Geologist Richard Chamberlin, Economic Geologist Charles E. Chapin, Senior Geologist Jeanette Chavez, Admin. Secretary I Richard R. Chavez, Assistant Head, Petroleum Ruben A. Crespin, Laboratory Technician II Lois M. Devlin, Director, Bus.-Pub. Office Amelia Dondero, Metallurgist Kathy C. Eden, Editorial Technician Robert W. Eveleth, Mining Engineer K. Babette Faris, X-ray Lab. Manager Rousseau H. Flower, Sr. Emeritus Paleontologist John W. Hawley, Senior Env. Geologist Cindy Howell, Staff Secretary Robert W. Kelley, Editor & Geologist Arleen Lindsey, Staff Secretary Mark Logsdon, Industrial Minerals Geologist David W. Love, Environmental Geologist Wess Mauldin, Driller Virginia McLemore, Geologist Lynne McNeil, Staff Secretary Norma J. Meeks, Department Secretary David Menzie, Geologist Teresa Mueller, Drafter Robert M. North, Mineralogist Keith O’Brien, Hydrologist JoAnne C. Osburn, Coal Geologist Glenn R. Osburn, Volcanologist Barbara R. Popp, Lab. Biotechnologist Marshall A. Reiter, Senior Geophysicist Jacques R. Renault, Senior Geologist James M. Robertson, Mining Geologist Gretchen H. Roybal, Coal Geologist Amy Shacklett, Asst. Lab Biotechnologist Jackie H. Smith, Laboratory Technician IV William J. Stone, Hydrogeologist Samuel Thompson III, Senior Petrol. Geologist Judy M. Vaiza, Executive Secretary Debra Vetterman, Drafter Robert H. Weber, Senior Geologist Betsy Wilson, Receptionist/Clerk Typist Donald Wolberg, Vertebrate Paleontologist Michael W. Wooldridge, Scientific Illustrator

Part Time

Christina L. Balk, Geologist Howard B. Nickelson, Coal Geologist Beverly Ohline, Acting Director, Info. Services Thomas E. Zimmerman, Chief Security Officer

Graduate Students

Danny Bobrow James T. Boyle Gerry W. Clarkson Mike Davidson David R. Guilinger Terry Jensen Douglas L. Heath Adrian Hunt Ingrid Klich Ione Lindley Curtis Verpleough John M. Wakefield Mary Lynne Yates John Young

Plus about 50 undergraduate assistants

Third edition, 4th printing

Published by Authority of State of New Mexico, NMSA 1953 Sec. 63-1-4

Printed by University of New Mexico Printing Plant, Albuquerque, April 1982

Available from New Mexico Bureau of Mines & Mineral Resources, Socorro, NM 87801 $4.00

Contents

3 [Of Indians, Spaniards, and Americans, Paige W. Christiansen] 16 [The exotic plants of New Mexico, Ross Calvin] 26 [Dwellers in the hills and plains, Levon Lee] 33 [Rocks that shape the enchanting landscapes, Frank E. Kottlowski] 54 [Before Coronado, Robert H. Weber] 64 [Frontier forts of New Mexico, Robert A. Bieberman] 75 [Our National Heritage] 75 [New Mexico’s big share of the National Park System, H. V. Reeves, Jr.] 93 [Forest lands above the desert, Ruth Bush Jones] 104 [The State Also Preserves] 104 [New Mexico State Monuments, Museum of New Mexico Staff] 107 [New Mexico State Parks, The Editors] 113 [Angling in the desert’s waters, Fred A. Thompson] 119 [The Indians of New Mexico, Paige W. Christiansen] 133 [Reminders of the past, Paige W. Christiansen] 145 [Derricks and mines, George B. Griswold] 154 [Enchanting landscapes, Frank E. Kottlowski] 165 [Index]

New Mexico

[High-resolution Map]

Preface

Previous Scenic Trips to the Geologic Past have emphasized scenic tours of local areas in New Mexico. This book lays out a mosaic of facts and fancies concerning the state’s landscapes, the rocks that underlie and make up the landscapes, and the history of the people now living or who have lived amid New Mexico’s exciting and varied scenery. We hope these short articles will help you enjoy our state, whether you are a tourist driving through at seventy miles an hour, a visitor with a little time to explore, or an old-timer who remembers the cattle drives.

The idea for this publication grew out of a booklet, New Mexico Mosaic of Science and History, that was written for the 1963 National Science Fair-International held in Albuquerque. The National Science Fair booklet was directed specifically to the Fair participants and emphasized their tours to famous scientific installations in New Mexico, areas of scenic geologic wonders, and points of historic and archeologic importance. The booklet had only limited distribution; subsequent interest in this kind of publication about New Mexico led to the preparation of this book.

Scenic Trips No. 8 is in two major parts. First, there are articles of general statewide interest to acquaint visitor and resident alike with the Land of Enchantment—its history, flora and fauna, geology, and scenic beauty. Second, there are articles describing specific scenic, geologic, historic, and recreational places to give a depth of understanding and a more intimate view of New Mexico. The entire mosaic of New Mexico thus presented is a permanent record to recall vistas of New Mexico’s enchanting land and fascinating history.

Acknowledgments

Many people have contributed their time and talents to this co-operative undertaking. We thank each of the authors of the articles; where their affiliation is not given, they are staff members of the New Mexico Bureau of Mines and Mineral Resources division of the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology. Professor Christiansen is a member of the Humanities Department of the Institute’s College division. This book would have been incomplete without the co-operation of the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, the Museum of New Mexico, the New Mexico Department of Development, the State Park Commission, the U.S. Park Service, and the Forest Service, Southwestern Region, U.S. Department of Agriculture. Our special appreciation goes to Dr. Ross Calvin for his interpretative description of New Mexico’s unique flora.

Black and white photographs were contributed by Robert Bieberman, Roy Foster, and Teri Ray of the Bureau of Mines staff and by the authors or their agencies. Some of the drawings were made by David H. Moneypenny. Acknowledgment is also made to Mr. Elliott S. Barker and the Forest Service for their willing loan of color transparencies.

Among the numerous personnel of the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology who aided in preparation of this book, appreciation is due Helen Waxler, Lois Devlin, Lola White, Mary Ann Grandjean, and Sharon Ballenger for typing of manuscripts and William Arnold, Robert Price, and Raymond Molina for drafting maps and figures. Teri Ray deserves special mention for her interest and editorial advice and for nursing the material from rough manuscripts into printed pages.

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION

The kind reception given our attempt to provide a brief but comprehensive guide to New Mexico’s scenery, rocks, and history resulted in distribution of 5000 copies in two years, and led to this second edition. In this revision, we have incorporated changes that have occurred during these two years, especially the addition of State Parks, and Teri Ray has added an index to make the book more usable. Each author has re-edited his article and made changes where necessary. William Arnold added much material to the index map; typing of the revision manuscript was carefully done by Lois Devlin. Alfred Coulloudon and Wayne Bera supplied additional photographs. Teri Ray initiated revision of the first edition, worked with authors, and guided the manuscript from the authors to the final copy.

PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION

The first edition appeared in 1964, the second in 1967, and a reprint in 1968. In the present edition front matter has been re-styled, printed matter has been altered on the inside and outside of the covers, a footnote added to [page 104], and a less bulky paper used.

Of Indians, Spaniards, and Americans

by Paige W. Christiansen

In the world of the twentieth century with its tumultuous ovation for each discovery of science, with its language of non-Euclidian space, with new heroes who leave the earth, not discover it—sometimes it is refreshing to look back on other days, to see other heroes, and to seek romance and excitement which was equally spectacular in times past. Yet there is a close affinity and a spiritual link among the heroes of the past, the present, and the future, and the reaction of their contemporaries to their feats of glory is not so different. Heroes are those who seek the unknown, who risk life and position to expand the frontiers of man’s universe and mind. But heroes can only lead an age, never surpass it. History, then, is people and their catalyst, ideas.

The history of New Mexico, like twentieth century science, is multi-dimensional. Its complex cultural patterns fit with the intricate variety of its geologic wonders and its flora and fauna. In reality, New Mexico is a part of a broader concept, the Southwest. This vast region, which includes western Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, southern California, part of southern Colorado, and southern Utah, has given rise to some of man’s greatest achievements. Here prehistoric man rose above his animal heritage to take control of these lands. Here, also, many millennia later, man achieved one of his greatest scientific wonders, the successful release of atomic energy. The story of the years between these events, so far separated in time, is a wondrous tale.

INDIAN BEGINNINGS

Before the coming of the white man, this land belonged to nature’s children, the Indian. Centuries before European nations came into existence, peoples from Asia, crossing by the Bering waters, had discovered, explored, and settled the American continents from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego. They mastered the plains, the northern forests, the jungles of Central and South America, and the arid regions. In the deserts and mountains of the Southwest, they conquered elements and terrain, first to survive and then slowly to ascend the ladder of culture.

At first they were foragers, living on what nature provided. At the time of Christ, several groups could be distinguished: In the Colorado River drainage, south of the Grand Canyon, were the Yuman Foragers; in southeastern Arizona and southwestern New Mexico were the Mogollon people; in the Four Corners area (where the states of Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico meet) and in the Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico was a complex of cave sites that evidenced a forager type of culture. But, as man always aspires to rise above his environment, the Indian slowly and painfully learned to make tools, developed new techniques, and finally made the great step upward; he domesticated plants. Agriculture, based primarily on the growing of corn, came to the Four Corners before the Christian era. Gradually, out of the primitive foragers, there developed across the Southwest a complex pattern of agricultural societies; peaceful farmers intent upon harvesting the utmost from a harsh land. In Arizona, the Hohokam peoples created a culture based upon irrigation. In the valleys of the upper Gila and Mimbres rivers of southwestern New Mexico, several branches of the Mogollon culture grew and prospered. In the Four Corners area and in the upper Rio Grande Valley, the Mesa Verde, the Gran Chaco, and later the Rio Grande branches developed, at first in the cliffs of the high country, then in open villages along the main tributaries of the Rio Grande. That there were numerous and varied cultures is attested to by the ruins one finds scattered throughout the Southwest. Along now dry arroyos, on buttes overlooking rivers or dry river beds, among cliffs in the mountain fastnesses and in caves wherever they appear, there are thousands of sites whose people and history are lost in antiquity.

Prehistoric Indian cliff dwelling

And these people were builders. They lived in caves at first, then in crude pit houses. Finally they moved above the ground and evolved building techniques and styles of architecture that stood the ravages of time and still serve the people of the Southwest. In the city of Santa Fe, the Palace of the Governors was built upon the ruins of an Indian pueblo (village), the name of which has disappeared even from tradition, and its massive walls of puddled adobe, laid down before the art of making bricks was introduced by the Spanish, may be seen under glass in some of the rooms of the Palace at the present time. Perhaps most spectacular are the great houses of Chaco Canyon, some of which must have sheltered from one to two thousand people each, and which as achievements in building, both from the standpoint of durability and graceful construction, rival the structures of the historic valleys and plateaus of the ancient eastern world.

In addition to agriculture and building, the Indian of the Southwest achieved great heights in artistic forms. The ceramics of the American Southwest become increasingly important when compared with products of the Old World. The Indians of America and the Southwest are a race of artists. Their aesthetic culture towers above anything achieved by the white man, with the general exception of ancient Greece and Renaissance Italy.

As impressive as his achievements in domesticating plants, in building massive structures, and in developing symbolism and aesthetic values to match his material advances, the Indian’s greatest heights were reached in his philosophy on nature and life. He conceived himself to be, not master of creation, but a single factor in the scheme of things. He shared with all things—beasts, birds, rocks, trees, everything in nature—a life principle which permeated all, a gift conferred by the mighty powers of earth and sky. He observed orderly procession of natural phenomena and ordered his own life in harmony therewith. His was no egocentric point of view which has become so much a part of the philosophic base of the European mentality. His natural philosophy entered into every facet of his life—his daily work, his art, his ceramics, his religion. In short, this singularly fine outlook upon the world helps to account for his success in conquering the diverse elements of earth and sky which constantly threatened his very existence.

But this fine culture did not survive in the fullness of its bloom. What eventually destroyed the vast and complicated agricultural system was not the rigors of Mother Nature but a migration of new people into the flow of Southwest history. Sometime after 1000 A.D., a nonfarming, nomadic, warlike people entered the Southwest. The peaceful farmers, weakened by drouth, were unable to cope with this new force. Gradually they fell back, leaving behind their homes, their fields, their culture. By 1300, only a small remnant remained, that located in the Rio Grande Valley of north-central New Mexico. Across the rest of the Southwest the nomadic tribes, technically called Athapascan from their linguistic affiliation but better known by their modern name, Apache, had replaced the farming cultures. The picturesque Indian pueblos we see today in the valleys of northern New Mexico are the direct descendants of the great cultures that existed at Mesa Verde, Gran Chaco, Frijoles, and other centers of cultural achievement.

The Indians of the Rio Grande Valley and the Apache who controlled most of the Southwest managed an uneasy coexistence. The Pueblo Indians remained basically farmers, holding fast to the cultural advances made by their ancestors during the millennium preceding 1300. The Apache, for the most part, remained nomadic predators, living off nature’s bounty, or better still, raiding the pueblos for food. The Apache groups began to take on names and traditional areas which they called their own. In northern New Mexico were the Jicarilla Apache and in the southeast, the Lipan, the Mescalero, and the Natage Apache. In northeastern Arizona were the Navajo and in the drainage of the Gila River, the Chiricahua, the Gila, and other groups of the Western Apache. Each of these groups made its mark upon the face of the land.

SPANISH CONTRIBUTIONS

This was the situation in the Southwest when the sixteenth century opened, but a new force was abroad which would grow and strengthen and leave a deep imprint on New Mexico. Beginning on the wild islands of the Caribbean and then fanning out into the heart of Mexico and the South American continent, this new force spread across the face of America. Europeans, more exactly, Spaniards, came bent upon conquest for its own reward, for the glory of God, and for gold. These sturdy men from the Iberian peninsula with weapons vastly superior to the Indians’, with the horse which made them highly mobile and devastating in battle, and with tactics and precision in warfare unknown among the Indians, were to sweep without serious setback across the great cultures of Mexico and Central and South America. By 1540, they were ready to take their next leap forward.

On the west coast of Mexico, at a place called Culiacan, a colorful host gathered. In their ears rang the words of the legend of the Seven Cities of Cibola, seven golden cities, a legend which had been popular in Spain for many generations. Mexico City had produced wealth, and the Spanish were ready to believe that other fabulous cities existed. One Spaniard had already crossed part of North America and had heard from the Indians tales of the rich cities. His name was Cabeza de Vaca, and the exuberance of his tales fired the imagination of the Spaniards.

The soldiers and adventurers gathering in Mexico, commanded by Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, were the first Europeans to organize an expedition to the American Southwest. Leaving from Culiacan in 1540, they went up the west coast of Mexico into modern Arizona, then east into New Mexico. The seven golden cities turned out to be the pueblos around Zuni, New Mexico, and not golden at all. The expedition, although discouraged, marched into the Rio Grande Valley and visited most of the pueblos there. Still they failed to find the treasure they sought. In a final desperate attempt, they explored onto the Great Plains, eventually reaching central Kansas. Broken in spirit and body, they struggled back to the Rio Grande Valley, and then retraced their route to Mexico. In all, the expedition covered a two-year span. A failure? Yes, in terms of wealth and treasure found. Yes, in terms of conquest, for nothing had been conquered. No, in terms of human resources, for the Indians Coronado met were to be the incentive that would bring the Spaniard back to New Mexico. While the Spaniard did seek gold and glory, he also burned with a missionary zeal and sought souls for his deep-running religion, Roman Catholicism.

Mesa top pueblo

For fifty-five years after Coronado, interest in New Mexico and the Southwest was spotty. Other things occupied the Spanish—primarily silver discoveries in the central valleys of Mexico. But men did not forget New Mexico and saw there an opportunity for missionary activity and exploitation. Also, other nations of Europe were beginning to take an interest in the North American continent, and New Mexico began to look attractive to the Spanish as a frontier defensive outpost. The frontier line pushed ever northward from central Mexico. By 1595, the Spanish were ready to push a salient into New Mexico.

From among the mining communities of northern Mexico, a force of two hundred colonists was assembled by Don Juan Oñate who had a contract to colonize New Mexico. After countless delays due to politics and supply shortages, the Oñate expedition left Chihuahua in 1598. The route went north across the desert to the Rio Grande near El Paso del Norte (modern Juarez), thence up the Rio Grande into New Mexico. On August 18, 1598, they arrived at San Juan, and there founded the first capital of New Mexico, San Juan de los Caballeros. These lands of the Southwest so long colored by the Indian now received a new imprint, one that would alter the direction and flow of culture and change it from the Indian to the Spanish Southwest.

From San Juan, and later (1610) from Santa Fe, Oñate, his men, and his colonists brought New Mexico under the Spanish yoke. In co-operation with the Franciscan Order, which had been assigned the task of converting the Indian, Oñate supervised the building of missions and mission churches at many of the pueblos of New Mexico. At the same time, Spanish towns developed, the most important being the new capital at Santa Fe. By 1628, New Mexico was solidly in the hands of her new masters.

The period from 1628 to 1680 was one of internal conflict and isolation for New Mexico. It lay far out on the frontier, alone and distant from its source of supplies. It lacked many of the items necessary for frontier life, particularly hardware and clothing. Its population was small, and in constant fear of Indian uprising, and its officials were too weak to act with vigor. Finally, there was a lack of genuine interest on the part of the central authorities. All these problems led to internal conflicts between soldier and colonist; between colonist and Indian; between colonist and official; and, perhaps most bitter of all, between church and state. This latter conflict would erupt time after time, openly, and with bitterness and denunciation from both sides. Governors were excommunicated as heretics; Franciscans were accused of all sorts of crimes and improper behavior. This, plus the other conflicts, gave rise to growing disrespect by the Indians for their European conquerors. The superiority of Christianity was questioned by the Indians as they watched the attacks and counterattacks made by priest and governor. The whole system of Spanish rule seemed a mockery. In 1680, the Indians decided their way was best after all and rose in rebellion.

Led by Po-pé from Taos, the various pueblos banded together in a mighty effort to remove the Spanish from traditional Indian lands. For the first time the pueblos came together, united by a single purpose. There were two exceptions; Isleta, just south of Albuquerque, and the Piro villages farther south (Socorro) remained loyal to the Spanish. Up and down the Rio Grande Valley, the Spaniards fell before the pent-up anger of the Indians. Survivors gathered at Santa Fe, but their water supply was cut, and they were forced to retreat south. At Isleta and later at the Piro villages, they received aid before continuing south to El Paso del Norte. With them went their Indian allies from Isleta and Socorro. It was a total defeat for the Spanish, and the Indian again was master of New Mexico.

But not for long, for at El Paso there gathered a force dedicated to revenge for their comrades who had died before the Indian onslaught. Ably led by Diego de Vargas, this expedition moved into New Mexico in 1692. The Indians, who had achieved such unity for the moment in 1680, were again badly divided. De Vargas, instead of having to subdue an alliance, had only to deal with one pueblo at a time. Very quickly New Mexico was returned to a mission area and frontier military post. The Pueblo Indians became permanently subjected to European domination. Their one and only attempt at unity had, in the final analysis, failed.

During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, New Mexico was the heart of the Spanish empire in the Southwest. Only in southwestern Arizona, western Texas, and California did the Spanish hold any land other than in the upper Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico. During these centuries, this valley complex played out its dual role of mission area and military outpost. Its only connection with the resources and ideas of the world was a long hazardous road that stretched from Santa Fe to Chihuahua City and then south to Mexico City. This was New Mexico’s Royal Road, and over it moved everything needed by soldier, priest, and civilian. The trade was dominated by the merchants of Chihuahua, and New Mexico suffered. The tale of New Mexico during this period was one of poverty, hardship, and warfare. And several vital forces moved across the land.

One of these forces had long been in the Southwest, but latent. The Spanish adopted an Indian word meaning enemy to describe it—Apache! The Spanish brought with them domesticated animals which quickly adapted to conditions of the New World and became available to the Indian. Most important was the horse, at least as far as the Apache was concerned. By the early eighteenth century, the Apache, and other groups on the plains, had adapted to the use of the horse. While dangerous as foot soldiers, the Apache became vastly more dangerous as mounted warriors. Whereas they had been satisfied with minor raids against the pueblos and the Spanish holdings prior to 1700, they exploded on a wave of terrorism during the eighteenth century which very nearly drove the Spanish from the frontier. Late in the century, the conflict between the Apache and the Spanish became increasingly bitter. The history of the Southwest became the history of incessant Indian incursions and Spanish attempts to control the raiders. The missions declined and in many instances gave way entirely to the presidio or fort. In New Mexico the military came to dominate the missionary, and only through the heroic efforts of the meager force at the Presidio of Santa Fe did the Spanish manage to hold New Mexico from total collapse. A poor province became poorer, population declined, both among the Spanish and Indian, and the future looked dark indeed.

Far from New Mexico, other forces were stirring which would have a profound effect on the province and the Southwest. Spain and the Spanish empire were in trouble. Spain had failed to develop the supply capability to keep her colonies alive and was forced to spend her wealth in other areas of Europe. After two and a half centuries, the cumbersome and inefficient colonial administrative machinery was breaking down. While Spain’s star was descending, other European nations were on the move. England, France, Holland, and Russia were contesting with Spain for control of the New World. England and France were digging in on the east coast of North America; Holland was penetrating the islands of the Caribbean, and Russia was pushing down the Pacific Coast from Alaska. The weakness of Spain and the failure of her colonial government, plus help from Napoleon by way of his invasion of the Iberian Peninsula in 1808, brought about the collapse of the Spanish empire. In America, patriots, inspired by the earlier success of the American Revolution and afire with the ideas of the French Revolution, struck out at the remnants of Spanish rule. By 1825, all the Spanish colonies but the islands of the Caribbean were free and independent nations. New Mexico and the Southwest became part of the Mexican state.

Almost immediately, Mexico, without leaders, without a political heritage to lead it to stability, and torn by power struggles large and small, was plunged into a period of political anarchy and civil war which would last for half a century. The problems and dangers of a far-flung frontier were lost in the din of conflict, and New Mexico became a forgotten province. Its claims as a mission area were so weak as to be almost nonexistent. It was no longer needed as a military outpost, for the danger to Mexico was not external, but internal. Its reasons for being were forgotten, at least for the moment, and New Mexico had to survive on her own initiative. But for one very important fact, the Spanish salient into the Southwest might have collapsed under the weight of poverty and Indian attacks. That fact was the opening of the Santa Fe Trail in 1821, a trail which linked the Spanish world with the Anglo-Saxon world then pushing its frontiers out from Missouri. This trail, so rich in lore and adventure, so much a part of the history of both the American west and the Spanish north, was the door through which passed the characters for the final act in the history of the Southwest.

Before the final act, however, it is vital and necessary to set down the contribution of two hundred fifty years of Spanish occupation and rule. The coming of the Spaniard to the Southwest began a mixture of white and red races which resulted in a new mixed race. The first generation of those who came up from Mexico were Caucasians; their descendants were usually not. They came seeking wealth and security, but there was neither wealth nor security in New Mexico, and they remained poor, very poor. The society that evolved was to be based upon farming and stock raising, and its organization was to be feudal in nature. There would be no education; hence, there could be no intellectual advance. The world began to go ahead of the people of New Mexico. Only in the house of the rico was there any sign of the wealth and grandeur of Spain; everywhere else was poverty. Farming was left in the hands of the Indian, while the Spaniard chose to be a man on horseback, a cattleman, an aristocrat. In the final analysis, Spanish New Mexico would not develop as democratic and agricultural, but aristocratic and feudal. The hacienda was a part of old Spain in exile. The rico tried vainly to hold to his idea of chivalry and to a decorum suitable to his position. But what chance was there in the face of the increasing poverty, the constant danger to life and property, and time that did not move? While individual courage of the upper class remained, discipline and industry died. When the American army marched into the Southwest, the sons of the conquistadores could offer no armed resistance. Perhaps the most amazing thing about the society of the ricos in New Mexico was that it failed to contribute any lasting monument. It left no art, no music, no great highways, no adequate governmental system.

But many elements of Spanish culture were to persist, and these arose from the collective consciousness of the people of New Mexico. Around the great haciendas were small villages with their artisans and workers. It was among these people that the heritage of Spain clung to this land. Many of these towns yet remain and are not much different from those of two hundred years ago. To a large degree, their Spanish culture seems hidden and undiscovered, but the people, their loves and hates, pleasures and hopes, beliefs and fears, are governed by tradition, a tradition that finds its roots deep in the soil of Spain.

Old mission church at Isleta Pueblo

Today, when we look at the cultural scene in New Mexico, we can see direct evidence of Spanish occupation. The language of half the people in the state is Spanish, in some areas still the Spanish of the sixteenth century. Roman Catholicism, of which the Spanish were the most Catholic, dominates the religious scene. The Spanish heritage in political attitudes, in building and architecture, and in the legal tradition of the state is apparent. New Mexico, of all the states in the United States, is the only one that can claim a truly Spanish heritage.

ANGLO-AMERICAN VIGOR

While Spain lost its empire and New Mexico and the Southwest sank into poverty and decay, yet another force was on the march, a force that welled up in an Anglo-American people clinging to the Atlantic Coast of North America. As these people developed a nation, they also discovered a sense of destiny which turned their faces to the west and their footsteps toward the sunset. With them moved their culture. At first, it was a trickle, a few traders bent on profit, crossing the plains on the Santa Fe Trail. Then the trickle became a flood. For New Mexico, these men came as saviors. The Missouri traders broke the Chihuahua monopoly and goods from all parts of the world began to flow into New Mexico, resulting in higher standards of living. These Yankee traders, sensing a good thing, also penetrated the markets of Mexico, using New Mexico’s Royal Road to gain entrance.

Again there was conflict, not Spanish and Indian, but Latin and Anglo-American. Mexico owned the lands of the Southwest and intended to keep them. But this American, with his gaze glued on western skies, refused to turn aside, and he strode on, grinding the feeble efforts of Mexican resistance into the desert sands. The Mexican War in 1846, suddenly transferred ownership of Texas, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and California from Mexico to the United States. This was nearly half the territory of Mexico. New Mexico, with her already complex cultural pattern, was subjected to still another influence.

The history of the American occupation of the Southwest is as complex and diverse as its predecessors. Its ingredients include cattle, mining, railroads, agriculture, science, and the Indian. All these, and others, combined to give an Anglo-American slant to the Southwest. The Indian culture did not disappear, nor did the Spanish, but rather a new stratum was cast that was to complete the mosaic.

When the American arrived in New Mexico, he found a poor, backward area, hungry for trade and outside contacts. He found the Indians of the Southwest in open rebellion against the white men. The Navajo and other Apache groups, the Comanche, and some of the Pueblos were the primary offenders. This was to be the main problem occupying the time and energy of the American settler and soldier for forty years after 1846. Until the Indian situation was stabilized, there would be little economic and social development.

The method evolved for containing the vicious raids against friendly Indian, Spanish, and American communities was a series of forts placed at strategic passes or trails surrounding the traditional lands of the Apache. The Indian strongholds were located primarily in the mountainous regions of southwestern New Mexico and southeastern Arizona. The line of forts stretched along the Rio Grande south of Socorro to the vicinity of Las Cruces, and west along the southern edge of the mountain escarpment into Arizona. Then the defense complex ran north across the desert to an irregular line running east from Flagstaff through Gallup and back to the Rio Grande. These forts were well garrisoned and provisioned and began to carry the fight to the Indian. Early success was halted by the conflict generated by the American Civil War.

The center of the Civil War in the west was in New Mexico. There was conflict, argument, and some small degree of fighting in other western states and territories as settlers from the north or south struggled to carry this territory or that state into the Union or the Confederacy. These were, however, local matters and as much political as military. In New Mexico, there was a war and there were battles, battles which deserve to be a part of the general Civil War story but that are usually forgotten in the smoke and roar of eastern cannon.

Two major battles were fought in New Mexico, the first a Confederate victory, the second a Union victory which saved New Mexico, and the west, for the Union. The aim of the Confederate forces was to capture, intact if possible, the forts in New Mexico and Arizona with their great store of military provisions, provisions badly needed by the Confederate army. Also, there was a feeling among southern leaders that success in New Mexico might also lead to success in California, badly split on the question of secession, and in Colorado, rich in silver and gold. An army recruited in Texas and commanded by General Henry Sibley was sent to accomplish Confederate aims.

This army entered New Mexico along the traditional route, moving up the Rio Grande from El Paso. It quickly subdued the forts and Union troops in southern New Mexico and continued up-river. On February 21, 1862, it met a Union army commanded by Colonel E. R. S. Canby at Valverde, a small community about twenty miles south of Socorro, New Mexico. Kit Carson, New Mexico’s famous trapper and scout, commanded the New Mexico Volunteers, a part of the Union force. Canby’s troops were beaten and dispersed at the Battle of Val Verde, leaving the upper Rio Grande Valley virtually without defense. Within a few weeks, the Texans had taken Albuquerque and Santa Fe. But one stronghold in New Mexico remained in the hands of the Union forces. Fort Union, northeast of Las Vegas, New Mexico, became the focal point of action by both north and south. Sibley, marching from Santa Fe, knew success depended on the fall of Fort Union. The Union forces, equally aware of the importance of the fort, hurriedly reinforced it with a number of volunteers from Colorado.

Within Fort Union, a crisis developed over differing opinions on strategy. The fort commander wanted to keep the garrison at full strength and fight the Confederates from within the fort. The Colorado Volunteers wanted to go out and meet the enemy. The latter won and a Union force moved into the passes of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to meet the Confederates in a fateful battle that would decide control of the west. It was fought at Glorieta Pass on March 28, 1862. Despite the fact that the two armies met on this field, the contest was not decided there. Early on the morning of March 28, a force of 400 Colorado Volunteers, commanded by Colonel John M. Chivington, began a flanking action in hopes of hitting the Confederate rear. This group moved out of the Pass into the mountains, and by a very difficult route moved back toward the Pass behind the Confederate force. On a ridge overlooking Apache Canyon, they saw below them the entire Confederate supply train and cavalry horse herd. In a lightning hit-and-run attack, the supply train and horses were destroyed. When word of this reached Sibley at Glorieta Pass, there was little for him to do but to retire from the field. The Confederate force never recovered from this disaster and gradually retreated to Santa Fe, then back down the Rio Grande into Texas.

With the end of the Civil War, New Mexico and the Southwest returned, not to peace, but to war, war against the Apache. It took twenty years for the American with all his modern weapons and tactics to bring the Apache under control. For the Apache, it ended on September 3, 1886, when Geronimo and his few ragged followers surrendered to General Miles in Skeleton Canyon, Arizona. Under the weight of steel and increasing numbers of white men, the Apache was doomed. Though civilization would swallow the Apache, as it has always succeeded against the barbarian, the Apache made a spectacular defense of his lands and his way of life against both Spaniard and American. He made himself master of the desert, and only the gods of science succeeded in overcoming him and his desert gods.

INDUSTRIAL BOOM

With the Indian situation settled, New Mexico underwent a boom in two important areas, mining and cattle raising. These industries, so much a part of the history of the American West, did and still play an important role in the well-being of the Southwest. Mining camps sprang up along the mountain fringes as new discoveries of silver and gold came to light. Around Socorro and Magdalena, in the Mogollon Mountains, at Hillsboro and Kingston in the Black Range, and hundreds of other places in New Mexico and the Southwest, men hungry for quick wealth swarmed over the hills and mountains and built their roaring camps. While miners were tapping the subsurface wealth, cattlemen were staking out their claims to the grasslands, both on the eastern plains and in the high mountain meadows. Cattle empires grew to staggering proportions, sometimes erupting into violent conflict over grazing and water rights, such as the Lincoln County War made famous by the participation of Billy the Kid.

Feature of the Old West

The character of the Southwest still bears the stamp of the miner and the cattleman. Although the cattle and grazing industry has declined, as has the traditional mining camp, the past importance of these activities has had a tremendous impact upon the character of Southwest folklore, law, and music and on the thought of the people.

Other influences affected New Mexico as a result of the American occupation, things inherent in the American culture. Ribbons of steel across a continent, buildings of steel and stone, business and commerce, technology, common law, the English language, the Protestant religion, and, above all, the American-brought driving desire to dominate, to win. Certainly the American had to adapt his culture to the desert lands, but he did it in his own way, not in the way of the Indian or Spaniard. So Anglo-American culture became superimposed upon a Spanish culture that was superimposed upon an Indian culture.

Disinherited, that is the word that best describes contemporary New Mexico culture. A stronger race came and took away the inheritance of the Indian, though there did result a blood mixture. Only in superficial matters did the Spanish adopt any of the Indian ways. The Spanish, too, succumbed to a stronger people and have been denied the privilege commonly accorded to conquered peoples, that of mixing their blood with that of the conquerors. One finds today in New Mexico three distinct people—Indian, Spanish, and Anglo-American—as sharply contrasted as the strands in a Navajo blanket. There is pure red alongside white, and only rarely do the colors blend into pinks or grays. This is why we must say that New Mexico is a mosaic, not a synthesis, of many elements, clearly defined.

Across the span of time, great men, people, and ideas have molded New Mexico and Southwest history. Indian, Spanish, American—vital forces that are today working toward a genuinely unique culture in New Mexico. The modern world may well give to the Southwest the idea or catalyst that will blend these elements into a single force. Science, techniques, ideas are things of the present and are for the present to assess and synthesize. The Indian gods of air, earth, and sky and the white man’s gods of morality and science do not differ a great deal in their aspirations for their chosen people, and perhaps they will decree a splendid and unique synthesis from the cultural mosaic. Through understanding comes knowledge; from knowledge, creation.

The Exotic Plants of New Mexico

by Ross Calvin

The problem of discussing plant life becomes complicated, for some of those arriving in New Mexico may be compound microscope botanists, some collectors, others pathologists, still others geneticists. Some will be chemists or mathematicians, some others untrained in the ways of growing things and mainly interested in seeing while they tour. But one thing is fairly certain—most visitors will come from a distance, so it may be useful to invite them to observe what they can readily see on the way hither, which will be a relatively painless method of amassing some information.

Yet the method of arrival itself suggests choices, options, and exercises in probability. Do visitors come in covered wagons, or in jet planes; by bus, car, train, or some other way? The most convenient way, doubtless, is by plane traveling six hundred miles an hour at a height of some thirty thousand feet; but the most rewarding way is by saddle or on foot as the early collectors came.

Since one cannot know his own country well if he knows no other, a visitor from the east arriving at an altitude of five miles will probably be more conscious than others of drastic changes in the landscape when he first looks down on New Mexico. Instead of the universal green of the east, he will note the earth as an unaccustomed tawny, reddish brown expanse, and this will be its common color through most months of the year. He will note the absence of rivers, but the presence of mountains which generally ring the horizon. He will wonder, after traversing the border counties at the western edge of the Great Plains, at the infrequency of plowlands, and will promptly conclude that New Mexico is one vast, bare desert—an impression that will be corrected rapidly when he visits the dark National Forests where the slim, crowded spruces and firs tower skyward.

The visitor from El Paso, as the Chihuahua desert (the name is fairly deserved) slides backward underneath him, will be amazed at the serpentine stripe of vivid verdure below, all completely leveled, and all marked off by geometrical lines and tightly bordered by pale hills where the vegetation is reduced to tiny dots not tall enough to cast a shadow. Still proceeding north, he will presently be above a ninety-mile stretch where the vegetation is so skimpy and the river so closely boxed in by desolate hills that Spanish explorers bestowed on it the sinister name Jornada del Muerto—Dead Man’s Journey, which is self-explanatory.

But on the other hand, a visitor descending into New Mexico from the northland in wintertime above this same Rio Grande will traverse a featureless jumble of peaks on which the black coniferous forest no longer shows as black at all but, snow-encased, gleams as white as the naked snowfields themselves. And he will find incredible the immense range of climate spanned in a flight only an hour long.

The jet traveler approaching from the west beholds the greatest, most spectacular panorama of all, the true wasteland of the desert, with vast blocks uplifted from out of earth’s crust, plateaus dissected by giant empty canyons whose walls are seared to utter nudity by ages of the most intense sunshine on our continent. Here the architecture of nature is all designed on a gigantic scale, and the climate exhibits influences of a mighty ocean, of towering mountain chains, and the range of wandering planetary winds which created the desert. From the altitude of a cruising jet, the distances, the speed, the color, and the light are indescribably exhilarating.

Since the traveler arriving from any direction can see for identification only a few species, it will suffice to point out only two of the harbingers of eastern New Mexico, both of which are dominant on that area of the Great Plains: the blue grama grass, which in fall and winter bears the graceful sickle-shaped head, and the small Yucca glauca which cannot be mistaken for anything else.

Along the northern line, the visitor should look for the somber, almost black, forest of spruce and fir with its white patches of aspen on the 10,000-foot slopes. Descending farther southward, even a casual observer will note that these species give way first to the yellow pines, then to the junipers (“cedars”) and dwarf pines or piñons. The visitor arriving from the south will find most conspicuous of all the olive-green creosote bush in its summer-winter foliage, next, the omnipresent mesquite (Prosopis), then the various Opuntia cacti (chollas and prickly pears), and the yuccas.

As he comes in from Arizona, the splendid saguaros will beckon him toward the gateway of New Mexico, but they will nowhere enter it themselves. The vase-shaped body of the ocotillo consisting of unbranching, ten-foot wands should be recognized at a glance, as likewise should the various yuccas and agaves. And in early springtime, a low tree with a rounded mass of golden bloom will joyously proclaim its identity as a paloverde.

The desert plants thus enumerated can be recognized along various stretches of U.S. 66 as one holds his speed at a conservative ninety or, even better, at a conservative sixty.

The amateur scientist will need to do some homework before he learns much systematic botany or plant physiology. It takes considerable study to comprehend the slow, age-long process which has resulted in the evolution of all this grotesque vegetation: the interaction of extreme aridity, high temperature, low humidity, high evaporation, infrequent precipitation, the hostility of numerous chemical solutions, and the natural rapacity of the animal population. Each plant must have an adaptation of its own, from the tiny winter annual, which must race through its course from a tender rosette to ripened seed before the searing sunshine arrives, on up through the series to the stoic saguaro, which seems able to scorn nature’s enmity.

A final warning to the air traveler. He should be sure before deplaning that he has observed a bajada. It is a must. Bajada is one name, outwash slope is another, alluvial fan is still another. The stewardess should inquire of each student, and if his answer is “no,” she should reply, “Then you’ve just flunked the course.” A bajada is the most characteristic single feature of all in the sloping, stony topography of the desert—and remember that the surface of the desert is regularly sloping and stony. The Spanish word itself means only a down slope, but it has come to have a semitechnical sense—a fan-shaped apron of rocky debris at the foot of a mountain where it has settled out of the summer torrents and there keeps accumulating in successive floods. As the mass builds up, the bigger fragments drop out closest to the parent crag, then the small ones, finally the coarse gravel, and lowest of all on the slope the fine sand. Thus the fragments are graduated in size, in distance traveled, and in the nature of soil resulting. As the fan increases in size and laps up higher and higher on the mountain’s flank, the geologists often describe the result by saying that the mountain “is burying itself under its own debris.” From the air, the lines of drainage will be seen to have assumed the form of a tree with its trunk downward, its branches high in air. But the most interesting aspect of a bajada is the nice proportion which nature works out between the plant species and their location on the curve.

FROM SAGEBRUSH TO SPRUCE TREES

The traveler who has viewed the Southwestern panorama of nature from its sagebrush to its spruce trees has indeed seen most of it. The spruce which grows wild only well up on the higher mountains is familiar to everybody because it has become a favorite in formal planting everywhere. But the sages—who knows them? To the tenderfoot, almost any gray plant is “sage.” To my friends the cowmen, sage means commonly saltbush. To my friends the foresters, sage means an artemisia. But there are romantics to whom “purple sage” is Apache plume, which is a member of the wild rose family.

Some popular education would seem to be desirable. And this applies, too, to the cacti, for there is more misinformation about them than anything else that grows, runs, or creeps—except rattlesnakes. The clever people who design travel folders and pictorial maps almost always put saguaros in New Mexico. But saguaros do not grow in New Mexico. That is final! And the yucca is not a cactus. That also is final. Nor yet the ocotillo—that defiant, splendid denizen of the desert which flaunts the scarlet torch of flowers. The question that is always on the surface as one writes of plant life in the Southwest is, “Who wants to know?” The picnicker wants to know the names—and nothing much besides—of the wild flowers. My friend the cowman already has the names; that is, the common ones. If I chance to mention blue grama grass, he gently corrects me, “black grama.” Then if I mention black grama, he says, “no, white grama.” But at least he is concerned about something more important than nonscientific names. He wants to know if the plant is something that a lean old cow can eat, whether it stays green in winter, and if it will hold the soil in place. The tourist who pilots car and passengers some six hundred miles between breakfast and bedtime asks only what he was looking at. The rest of us who go into the mountains often enough to be impressed by the layer-cake succession of plants on their slopes can, with the aid of some reading, amass a store of knowledge where others amass only mileage. On a tour, it is mileage or knowledge. One has to choose.

Actually, our New Mexico desert is not dominated by sage. That honor is held by the creosote bush, called by some of the old-timers greasewood, Covillea glutinosa, by some of the scientists—along with five other synonyms. Like the mesquite with which it shares the same general habitat but does not intermix, it occupies an immense spread of territory, roughly from Texas to California. Since no livestock will eat it and the ground it occupies is equally useless for agriculture because of aridity and stoniness, creosote is a veritable coyote for survival. The traveler descending from Taos to Santa Fe need not look for it. The sage of that locality, which gives the landscape its singularly mournful aspect, is a true sage. With good reason the cowboys call it black sage.

In 1846, Lieutenant Emory, as he rode southward with the Army of the West, first encountered the creosote as he approached Socorro. The northward extension of the plant is at the same point today, and the range of mesquite extends only a few miles farther north. These two remarkable plants are the main markers of the Lower Sonoran Zone. In the same arid, stony, broken country, the traveler will find an abundance of cacti, and these plants are usually supposed to be the most tenacious of all tenacious growing things. Actually, in southwestern Arizona and neighboring parts of California there are whole areas where the aridity is too severe for cacti, but for our state—let it stand. Everybody, of course, has noted the grotesque shape of the plants, but not everybody has noted that the shape was chosen with a canny intelligence. A globe exposes less surface (that is, the vulnerable area for evaporation) than any other solid of equal volume. And a cylinder is second best. Another thing—cacti being succulents are filled with a watery sap or juice which quickly coagulates after a wound and stops the waste of moisture. Furthermore, the plant’s aggressive root system is arranged so as to capture the grounds scanty moisture most quickly and completely after rains.

Cacti of more than sixty species occur within our state, but more than nine tenths of the plants seen along the highway—unless they are brought together for a garden collection—can be grouped into one genus, the Opuntia. The family likeness is shown not by the shape or general appearance but by the fact that all are jointed. Both the cane cactus (also called cholla and elkhorn) and the pancaked prickly pear, unlike the big barrel cactus and the numerous small species which resemble it in shape, have joints and may therefore be rightly called opuntias. The “pancakes,” it may be remarked, are not leaves but divisions of the stem. A cactus gets along without leaves. So a good rough-and-ready test is this: if it has leaves, it is not a cactus—which eliminates ocotillo, yucca, agave, sotol, and so on.

The barrel cactus is sure to be seen growing beside service stations in the southern part of the state. Its name as well as its size identifies it. The flowers and the large lemon-shaped fruits are worth a glance. If they do not occur on the south side of the plant, it has been transplanted and turned. The evidence is as trustworthy as the presence of moss on the north side of a tree in the forest.

The barrel cacti, the opuntias, acacias, the ocotillos, along with the creosote and mesquite already mentioned, have a way of growing along together in what is called a plant society. These all belong in the bottom layer of the cake called the Lower Sonoran Zone, which is best seen on the Rio Grande mesas near El Paso.

The layer next above it comprises the foothill country of the Upper Sonoran Zone, which includes most of the state of New Mexico. Some of its common markers are juniper, piñon, oak of various species including live oak, mountain mahogany, mescal, yucca, beargrass, and the famous blue grama grass. It is exhibited all along the Continental Divide in the southwest part of the state but nowhere so well as in the Fort Bayard Reservation. There a tract, protected for three generations from woodcutting, fires, and intensive grazing, offers a large-scale picture of the lovely land that once was New Mexico. There the character and amount of vegetation astounds the visitor who is familiar with only the close-picked, parched aspect of the landscape that generally borders the main highways. When seen from the air, the very color of the grass-mantled earth is many shades lighter than that of the bare overgrazed ranges a few miles to the south. And the difference can be seen by anybody.

The foothills are dotted, not covered, with juniper and piñon. The dwarfed, rounded little junipers (properly enough called cedars) leave the traveler unprepared to believe that they will anywhere become respectable forest trees. Yet in the Burro Mountains, the alligator-bark species, finest of them all, reaches a diameter of five feet and an age of about 1000 years. The wood has an extraordinary fragrance, and its smoke tells the neighbors for blocks around that you are warming yourself at the fireplace. Another notable thing about the wood is its resistance to decay in the earth. I have removed pieces of it from subterranean ruins of the Mimbres culture which, according to the best archaeological opinion, are some eight hundred years old.

The yuccas deserve a story by themselves. One small, unimpressive species greets you on the meadows at the foot of Raton Pass; others have to be searched out along high limestone ridges where the foothills are deciding to become mountains. The one chosen for our state flower is the tall yucca (Yucca elata), a superb species best seen along the Continental Divide near Silver City. The genus reaches its greatest size in the grotesque Joshua tree, which never fails to attract the eye on the Mohave desert in California.

The century plant has a name that always gets attention. But let us be sure we mean the same thing. Rightly, it means the mescal, the favorite food of the Mescalero Apaches. Besides these two names, it is called also maguey and, no doubt, Spanish dagger along with various other spine-tipped plants. All of which clinches the argument for a name which for all users is a certain designation for one object and only one. It is not just because botanists like to appear learned that they call this plant Agave parryi. That title is as descriptive as middle C for one key on the piano, and in the same way international.

Yucca plants

Everyone inquires about the century plant’s life expectancy. An insurance man might make an inference from the name. The plant is a big compact cluster or rosette of rigid, upward-pointing, spadelike leaves, each four or five inches in width and each tipped with a vicious, stout thorn. Year after year the plant just sits there by a boulder, unnoticed. I question whether anything alive on the desert has a better life expectancy. As far as my observations go, it has no diseases. It is invincible to drouth. Freezing does not harm it, and fire cannot burn it—although a yucca even when green will flame up like a torch. No hungry old cow can crop it, and no rodent gnaws it, at least not enough to do harm. And since the Indians have gone on reservations, no human uses it. So it stays there.

In fact, nothing less than a caterpillar can leave a dent on it—not, of course, the caterpillar that eats young tomato plants, but the Caterpillar that pulls heavy road machinery. The plant just does not die before maturity, it would seem. A remarkable organism, indeed! But after many, many years, depending on the amount of moisture it receives, it makes up its mind to flower. In one tremendous effort, it shoots up a twelve-foot flower stalk at the rate of several inches a day. The blossoming is a final, dramatic, beautiful gesture, for by the time the flowers have withered, the great tenacious plant has turned to a ghastly purple and is dead.

On the high slopes where the last yuccas end and only a few junipers remain in the race for survival, the yellow pines come in to mark off what is called the Transition Zone. The pines need no description, no printed promotion. The traveler, any traveler, can appreciate them although he might not be stirred to the slightest interest by the lovely yuccas. Since the beginning of time, the pines, fragrant, cheerful, companionable, have been man’s best friend. Among the ponderosa pines takes place most of the hunting, most of the camping, much of the picnicking. There is no danger that the tourist will overlook the pine belt and the pines for they are probably the most numerous tree in New Mexico.

Piñon needles

Above them, the classifications are less clearly defined and ecologists are less inclined to agree on zonation. The Canadian Zone, if we settle on that name, occurs only in small areas on the map, and most of them north of Santa Fe. These are high ridges and island peaks that tower high enough to tempt the Engelmann spruces. Yet some of these islands occur as far south as the Mogollon Mountains and thus bring Canadian Zone scenes almost to the Mexican border. For hardy ecologists who want to explore high ridges and horns of bare stone which rise as clean as a hound’s tooth clear up into the Arctic-alpine Zone, it is necessary to enter Colorado.

Engelmann spruce forests may be associated with the 10,000-foot level. The blue spruce is very similar, perhaps only a subspecies, but it comes in a little lower. The Engelmann makes a dense forest hardly allowing invaders, but the blue is more tolerant, less austere. It loves the water and is the natural companion of chill, cascading trout streams. Though fond of shadow, it seems to grow equally well where the narrow canyons widen and admit the sunshine upon the tiny meadows of lush grass, cranesbill, velvety red cinquefoils, lupines, and yellow columbines. And when one of these miniature openings is fringed with spruces whose pointed tips rise sharp against a curtain of azure with its white cumulus clouds, there you have the loveliest vista in the mountains.

OUR VISIBLE IMPACT ON THE PLANT LIFE

Though nature lovers usually find the life zones more fascinating than any other aspect of plants in the mountains, there is one other much more important. It is the misuse, injury, and destruction of native plant life. Because scientists are generally alert to the conservation of what is useful and beautiful in natural resources, I venture to bring up the matter here.

A useful case history is provided by Silver City, New Mexico. It was founded in the early seventies as a silver camp, which would fairly guarantee a certain amount of reckless haste and rowdy carelessness. Point two was its location on a foothill watershed only twenty-seven square miles in area. Point three was an extreme concentration of livestock near the town. Point four was the fact that the annual rainfall was crowded mainly into July, August, and a part of September.

Mines are naturally users of timber. Obviously, shafts and tunnels have to be timbered. More than that, little smelters nestled back among the hills were also hungry for wood. And since coal was expensive and hard to get, most of the adobe cottages were heated many years by juniper, oak, and piñon firewood. All these matters were naturally, if not actually, inevitable under the circumstances.

The massive ore wagons and freight wagons had to be drawn by four- to ten-horse teams—and the horses kept on eating. Then because it was also a ranching country, each cowboy had to keep a remuda of saddle horses—and they ate too. Also, the few cows that provided milk for the children grazed hungrily over the stony slopes. Most of all, the range cattle, which had no provender at all except that which the competitive, half-starved steers could provide for themselves, overgrazed every square foot of pasturage down to the bare soil. The government’s open-range policy made overgrazing inevitable because no ranchman could protect his pasturage since it was all unfenced. The cow that got there first got the grass. That passed as land management, which proves that some statesmen then were about as wise as some of the Wizards of Washington now. But the advent of fences caused the cutting of millions of fence posts where none should have been cut.

Elk

When the grass went, its roots went, and when its roots went, there was nothing to hold the soil, and then it, too, started to go. And go it did. A deep hole formed in Main Street, as it is still called on the Silver City town plat. The best explanation I can find of that hole is that earth was taken out of it to form adobe bricks for the walls of houses and corrals (that clay did make good adobe!). Meanwhile, the woodhaulers’ wagons had greedily carted away the trees from each little canyon, while the narrow steel tires cut deep ruts which formed two deep gullies at the first heavy rain. Then the parallel gullies proceeded to wash out deeper and create a middle ridge or high center on which axles got stuck. Since there was nobody responsible for making a new road, there was no choice except to move over and form another track and use it until in turn it became unusable. (By this simple kind of destruction, the old Santa Fe Trail, it is said, reached a width of a hundred feet.)

But the water descending the slope kept increasing its destructive velocity as the denuded ground approached the bareness of a tin roof. Villagers observed that the hole in their Main Street was becoming a waterfall after each rain, and that the ruin was passing into a big-time operation. The town built a dam to restrain the floods. It washed out in the first one. Soon Main Street followed it down the drain, which by this time was already a hideous gash in the earth many miles long and twenty feet deep. Then the water began on a really different scale of destruction. One furious flood washed away the cabin in which Billy the Kid’s mother lived. More than that, it washed away the wall of Judge Newcomb’s house and abducted his Steinway from the second floor. A few yards from the spot, an old photograph taken in 1891 shows a woodhauler’s ox team lying in the street there. It gives no hint at that time of the famous Big Ditch—the only name that Main Street, Silver City has had now for the last forty years.

By 1927, after many other attempts had been made to tame the floods a steel bridge about one hundred feet long and thirty feet above the floor of the “canyon” was swung into place. In 1935-1936, the Soil Conservation Service went to work in earnest, made the watershed a demonstration area, and spent a third of a million dollars there in a short time.

In the New Mexico Magazine for August 1934, the really incredible story of the Big Ditch is exactly documented with old photographs and newspaper clippings. After a friendship of many years with old-time miners and ranchers at Silver City, I would not point an accusing finger at one of them. I appeal, however, for a greater vigilance over plant life and soils nowadays from everybody. In such protected areas as the Fort Bayard Reservation, the U.S. National Forest enclosures, and the frontier cemeteries, the imagination can visualize a New Mexico that is far different from what is here today—a close-picked, hard-used land where unwise woodcutting has continued through much of the last three centuries and where the thin ranges have been required to support in the last century alone perhaps more than one hundred million cows, sheep, and horses. The magnitude of the cause accounts for the magnitude of the effect.

A good many years ago, I wrote as the concluding paragraph to Sky Determines what seemed to some exaggerated praise for my adopted homeland. There is now less and less cavil from any readers. I believed the words true in 1934, and I stand my ground now.

Perhaps nowhere in the world is the natural setting nobler than in New Mexico—more beautiful with spacious desert, sky, mountain; more varied in rich, energizing climate, more dramatic in its human procession, more mellow with age-old charm. Endowed with sunshine that stimulates, and winter chill that toughens; with silence and majestic desert color that offer a spiritual companionship, it has enough. Here, if anywhere is air, earth, sky fit to constitute a gracious homeland, not alone for those who study and create, but as well for those who play, for those who sit still to brood and dream.

Tyuonyi Pueblo ruin

This large ruin in Bandelier National Monument lies along the banks of El Rito de los Frijoles. Narrow-leaf cottonwoods line the stream, and shrubs of the Upper Sonoran Zone cover the hillside slopes.

Dwellers in the Hills and Plains

by Levon Lee[1]

The vast sweep of New Mexico’s 77 million acres, which ranges all the way from the Alpine tundra of the tallest mountains down to the heat of the lower Sonoran desert, offers a home and sanctuary for many kinds of wild life.

Some of these animals are considered game animals; others may be pests, since they prey upon or destroy what mankind regards as its own. The coyote which takes a sheep from the small herder is wicked indeed in the eyes of the sheepman. Predatoriness on all living things by other things has gone on since time began and will continue—mankind being not the least predator.

A good definition is that composed by the late Judge C. M. Botts who defined a predator as “a critter that takes another critter that I want.”

New Mexico’s immense topographic and geologic differences make for a very wide range of habitats preferred by the various species. The elk and deer, being highly adaptable, may be found from the Alpine tundra of the higher mountains clear out into the creosote desert. Deer occur in four separate subspecies: the Rocky Mountain and the desert mule deer, the western whitetail, and the Sonoran fantail deer, which is also a whitetail. These animals may be found all the way from the dense coniferous forests of the north with perpetual gloom and cold to the sun-scorched granite mountains such as the Florida and the Organ mountains of southern New Mexico; from great towering granite spires to the folded blocks of limestone such as comprise the Big Hatchets, the Guadalupe, and the San Andres mountains.

The javelina, or little wild pig, lives along the watercourses in the south west part of the state. Its thin spiky hair gives it little or no protection against cold, and only in the balmier parts of New Mexico does it feel at home.

The desert bighorn sheep, as distinguished from his cousin the Rocky Mountain bighorn, goes around on a sun-scorched, ocotillo-covered limestone-rubble slope in the full glare of the sun and lies down to take his afternoon siesta. The Rocky Mountain bighorn, on the other hand, with his preference for cooler climates does not shun even the dense spruce timber at the very top of the Sandia Mountains as the hideout for his afternoon rest.

This adaptability by New Mexico’s species to the tremendous differences in altitude, rainfall, and temperature makes them all the more valuable as a resource for the pleasure and enjoyment of everyone.

(Photo courtesy of Forest Service, U.S.D.A.)
Pack train on a wilderness trail

The most popular big game animals in New Mexico are the mule deer in either of the two subspecies. Every fall, beginning in late October and extending ordinarily through December, more than 100,000 hunters take to the woods for their 50-50 chance of bringing home the sought-after mule deer. A hunter may shoot his mule deer at the Alpine tundra timber line, out in the blazing heat of the creosote desert, or among the rock crags of some of the southern desert mountains. He will find his quarry a worthy opponent. Shy, wild, and with terrific eyesight and hearing, these animals provide a true challenge.

Elk and antelope, as well as bighorn sheep, are hunted by special licenses only, since their numbers do not warrant a general open season. These special licenses are much sought after and are ordinarily made available by application and a public drawing in the fall. The javelina, confined to our southwestern counties, is also hunted by special license. It is noteworthy that although New Mexico had protected them for many years, the javelina did not increase its numbers. As a matter of fact, the natural losses applied against any game species are going to be in effect no matter whether hunting is permitted or not, the hunting being merely subtracted from what would be lost to nature anyhow.

Our state mammal, the black bear, is found throughout the wooded areas of the state and occasionally wanders out into the plains or down into the desert mountains of the south. Bears are hunted avidly in the fall by sportsmen with dog packs before the regular big game seasons begin, when the use of dogs is prohibited. They are again hunted during the big game seasons by anyone bearing the proper license, but no packs of dogs are allowed. This is to prohibit the possibility of dogs being used to pursue elk, deer, or wild turkey, an illegal act in New Mexico.

New Mexico is fortunate in having a tremendous diversity of both upland game and waterfowl, and big game and small game for her people. Importantly, the game resources are spread out through every county in the state.

The state’s richness of bird life is varied and extensive. New Mexico ranks among the first five in the total number of birds found within its boundaries. More than 400 species of birds live within the state. These range all the way from the tiny mites of the bird kingdom, the hummingbirds, weighing less than an ounce, to the great white whistling swan, weighing up to 25 pounds, or the Merriam turkey, which may weigh close to 30. Of the six species of quail found in the United States, New Mexico has four and may possess the fifth, since the mountain quail of the western coast have been introduced into this state and still occur on the west slopes of the Sacramento Mountains near Tularosa. Five species of doves found throughout the state from the highest coniferous forest down into the scorching heat of the creosote desert are the Inca dove, ground dove, mourning dove, white-winged dove, and the bandtail pigeon, all of them close relatives. Of these, only two, the mourning dove and the white-winged dove, are commonly hunted as game species.

An unexplained and precipitous decline struck the bandtail pigeon about ten or twelve years ago, from which it apparently has never recovered. Although hunting was undoubtedly part of the pressure exercised against these birds, it in no way accounted for their sudden and dramatic decline in numbers. This decline may gradually be reversed, since more and more of these birds are being seen. It is well known that animals with a high reproductive capacity can endure much heavier losses to their population than can those with low or very limited reproduction, such as the bandtail, which normally lays only a single egg. The mourning dove, on the other hand, lays two eggs at a time and may raise as many as five or more broods in one year. Take this one step further with the scaled or Gambel quail, which may lay up to 12 or 15 eggs, and it can readily be seen that the population of bandtail pigeons can never endure the losses that the much more prolific mourning dove and quail can. The same might be said by comparison of elk and deer. Elk do not bear their first young until their third year, and then the cow may not bear young but alternate years until her seventh or eighth year; by that time she has begun to decline in vigor; in her total life she may not produce more than four or five calves. The mule deer, on the other hand, start bearing at the age of two, with their first birth normally single; from then on, twins are usual for the rest of the doe’s life. Thus, deer have a considerably greater reproductive potential than do elk or bighorn sheep, which have one young at a time.

The fleet-footed antelope of the open rolling plains is another example of fairly high reproductive capacity, since they breed earlier than do deer and normally bear twins. Antelope are confined to the more open country where their prodigious running ability and marvelous eyesight stand in good stead in protecting them against their natural enemies.

The wild turkey, classified by law in New Mexico as big game, is found throughout the mountainous areas of the state, not excepting some of the desert ranges. New Mexico is one of two states fortunate enough to possess three of the five forms of the wild turkey known to the United States: the Merriam turkey, found in the higher elevations of the mountainous areas, usually the ponderosa forest; the Rio Grande turkey, confined to the watercourses of the eastern plains; and the fairly rare Mexican turkey, found in the Animas and Peloncillo mountains of extreme southwestern New Mexico. In Hildalgo County these mountains are actually largely Mexican in both flora and fauna. Some of the rarest, most beautiful birds of North America are also found in this area and nowhere else in the United States with the exception of southeastern Arizona.

Our most abundant game bird, the mourning dove, is found in every county of the state and nests from the coniferous forests of the north and the higher mountains of the south clear out into the plains where there is not a tree in sight for miles. Doves are extremely adaptable and very prolific. They provide the finest kind of sport shooting and are avidly sought, particularly by shotgun enthusiasts of the eastern and southern parts of the state.

Scaled quail are found throughout New Mexico, being absent only in elevations above 7000 feet. Even there, they periodically occur but are ordinarily driven back by winter snow. Gambel quail are found throughout the river courses of the Rio Grande Valley, the San Juan Valley, and the southwestern watercourses. The Mearns’ quail is found in the southern half of the state in the higher mountain elevations, whereas the bob-white quail occupies the grassy rolling sandhills of the eastern counties where it is commonly found together with scaled quail.

Quail hunting is one of the most popular sports in New Mexico and many thousands of hunters can hardly wait from one season to the next. New Mexico is in the heart of the scaled quail country and provides some of the finest shooting to be had anywhere.

Migratory waterfowl, while not considered abundant, are not uncommon in this state, known more for its aridity than for its rivers and lakes. The two main fly ways are the Rio Grande Valley and the Pecos Valley, with the Pecos Valley being somewhat ahead in total numbers.

Ducks commonly found in New Mexico in abundance are teal, both green-winged and blue-winged as well as the lesser-known cinnamon teal, mallards, widgeon, pintails, gadwall, scaups, canvasbacks, redheads, and other species.

In addition, New Mexico plays winter home to many thousands of the lesser sandhill crane which is confined to the river valleys and open plains of the eastern part of the state, particularly the southeastern counties. A smaller population of the greater sandhill crane is found in the Rio Grande Valley and near Columbus. Flocks of the small Richardson’s goose are found in the northeastern counties, in particular, and along river courses throughout the state. The small snow goose is likewise confined mostly to major river courses. The larger Canada geese are found particularly in the middle Rio Grande Valley where extensive development has been made by both state and federal agencies to encourage the use and the presence of bands of geese.

New Mexico is unique in that it was the first state in many years to be able to open a hunting season on the lesser sandhill crane. This bird is comparatively abundant, the total population probably being in excess of 200,000, with the vast majority of these birds wintering in west Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico. They occasionally cause heavy depredation to grain crops in the southeastern part of the state, and hunting has been partly justified on the basis that the large wintering flocks might be broken up and depredation spread over a larger area for less individual effect. These birds are tall, wild, and shy. They are hard to hunt, even more so than geese, and although strenuous efforts have been made, not too many of them are bagged.

One should not overlook the tremendous opportunity for sport hunting of unprotected species, such as the various rabbits, the mountain lions and bobcats, and coyotes.

The wolf is now very rare in New Mexico. Only occasionally do wolves come out of Mexico into the southwestern counties, usually in Hidalgo, Luna, and Doña Ana. Wolves are large, effective predators and are incompatible with the cattle-raising industry. Since they have a fondness for beef, the hand of the cattleman is raised against them.

The mountain lion prefers his natural prey of deer, mule deer being the principal victims. The bobcat preys on deer and on many of the small wild animals, rabbits in particular. These predators, when run and hunted with a pack of dogs, provide a fascinating sport which is growing in popularity.

The use of calls to attract animals to a “victim” has become widespread. The calls imitate the distressed cry of rabbits and other creatures which to the predator means a meal close at hand. Everything from mountain lions to red-tailed hawks have been hunted by this procedure, and it can be very successful in bagging quarry. This type of hunting has value in that it can be enjoyed at any time of the year throughout the state and with a minimum of time and effort.

Hunting is a conservation practice that, wisely administered, results in wholesome out-of-door recreation and brings many tons of high protein food of highest quality to the table. Nature nowhere in her economy locks up a resource and throws away the key—we should be no less wise.

Long gone are the buffalo which once roamed the High Plains of eastern New Mexico. Exotic animals, imported and stocked along the rugged canyon of the Canadian River above Conchas Reservoir, are the Barbary sheep with their magnificent coiled horns. Beavers dam some of the mountain streams, badgers and skunks can be seen from the highways, and amid the forests are squirrels and porcupines, while high on rock slopes, the Rocky Mountain woodchuck and the gray rock cony dash from ledge to ledge. The white-tailed ptarmigan also haunts these high crags, and lower down the mountain, bluebirds nest. Hawks, eagles, magpies, jays, ravens, orioles, wrens, sparrows, warblers, finches, and many other birds of endless variety soar over canyon, forest, and sand-dune desert.

Most notable of all is the crested roadrunner, the chapparal cock or paisano of Mexico and the state bird. In between racing with horsemen or automobiles, the slender roadrunner cocks his head, strikes swiftly and victoriously, then swallows his victim, which can be a small rattlesnake, whole.

Snakes there are aplenty. Mostly, they are nonpoisonous, such as the garter snake, glass snake, puff adder, ring-necked snake, the coachwhip, the Mexican blacksnake, and the large western bullsnake. The small but very venomous coral snake is rare, but common among rocks and near streams are the large western diamondback rattlesnake, the prairie rattlers, and the less common green or blacktailed rattlesnake. Every sun-warmed rock has its scampering lizard, and nearby are horned toads, dry-land terrapins, tortoises, tarantulas, centipedes, vinegarroons, scorpions, and spiders. Of these latter desert animals, only the black widow spider is poisonous.

Contrast in the influence of environments is shown by the animals that inhabit the “malpais,” the recent flows of black, rough-surfaced lava, compared with similar animals found among the white gypsum dunes of White Sands. Black or darkly colored subspecies of mice, plains wood rats, kangaroo rats, and rock squirrels live on the black lava, whereas white or pale counterparts of these animals live among the white gypsum dunes.

Sketch of roadrunner, New Mexico state bird

The dwellers in the hills and plains of New Mexico are as varied as the hills and plains; they add their color and movement to the scenes of the Land of Enchantment.

Rocks That Shape the Enchanting Landscape

by Frank E. Kottlowski

“As old as the hills.” How much more ancient can anything be? Yet New Mexico’s hills, its enchanting landscapes, were built in but the most recent “minute” of geologic time. Merely one geologic era ago, marine waters covered the state, and storm-tossed waves ruled where now the hot sun beats down on dry sands and cacti a mile above sea level.

What determined the Land of Enchantment’s landscapes? Shaping these land forms are the rocks of the earth’s crust, the structure of those rocks, and the endless battle between the rocks and the atmosphere. A story spelled out in stone, the geologic history. The rocks determine.

Eons ago, it began; one billion, two billion, or perhaps even more billions of years ago. A history whose beginnings have been lost owing to destruction of its earliest records. A history, written in the rocks, that is divided into four general parts ([fig. 1]). The oldest rocks, more than 600 m.y. (million years) old, almost devoid of traces of life, are the Precambrian rocks. The Paleozoic rocks, 230 to 600 m.y. old, are marked by ancient (paleo-) life. This was the Period of Invertebrates, animals without backbones. Mesozoic rocks, 70 to 230 m.y. old, formed in the Era of Dinosaurs and contain types of life that are intermediate (meso-) between the ancient and modern animals. And rocks of the Cenozoic Era, 70 m.y. ago to the present, make up the latest (ceno-, recent) chapter of the earth’s history.

Events of the Cenozoic Era have had the greatest influence on New Mexico’s landscapes. So let us begin the story at the dawn of the Cenozoic, and return to the earlier geologic chapters later.

CENOZOIC ERA

The mountains, the plains, the rivers, and the lakes all are transitory features of the landscape, created during the recent part of the Cenozoic Era, and all doomed to destruction in the near future, geologically speaking. Even so, some of the plains and mountains may predate man’s evolution onto the earth scene.

Gone were the late Mesozoic seas; never again during our lifetime nor the lifetime of many future generations will marine waters roll over New Mexico, and sea-spawned creatures rule. For the first two thirds of the Cenozoic, the Paleogene Period (25 to 70 m.y. ago), New Mexico suffered from the dying effects of the great Laramide upheaval of the earth’s crust. Large areas were exposed to the harsh erosion of stream and wind. The landscape looked as parts of southwestern New Mexico do today—tall rugged mountain ranges scattered in isolated patches amid wide gravelly plains. But the climate was more humid, and while no large through rivers are known, local great swamps and lakes lay on the plains in debris-trapping lowlands.

Figure 1. Table of geologic time

Figure 2. New Mexico during Paleogene time

Scenery in north-central New Mexico ([fig. 2]) may have been similar to today’s, with mountains in the same general areas as the present-day Sangre de Cristo, Nacimiento, San Juan, and Brazos ranges. Coarse-grained gravels were stacked up at the edges of the mountains, but out in the adjoining lowlands, floodplain sands and varicolored lake-bed clays settled. Three low areas were “basins” of deposition where thick masses of sediments accumulated—the Raton and Poison Canyon formations in the Raton Basin near Raton, the Animas, Nacimiento, and San Jose formations in the San Juan Basin north and northwest of Cuba, seen along N.M. Highway 44, with thinner deposits of the El Rito and Blanco Basin formations to the northeast of Cuba, and the Galisteo Formation in the Galisteo Basin south and southwest of Santa Fe. Volcanic rocks, the Espinaso beds, overlie the Galisteo but are not much younger in age. Reddish rocks of the Galisteo Formation crop out along U.S. Highway 85 at La Bajada Hill about twenty miles southwest of Santa Fe. The Sandia Mountains’ area appears to have been a lowland.

Silicified wood, chiefly of pines but with some oak and poplar, is abundant in the Galisteo Formation. Large logs, up to 6 feet in diameter and 135 feet long, have been found. In the great swamps of the Raton Basin, where the climate was much like that of Georgia today, tall reeds, water lilies, fig trees, palm trees, magnolias, and sycamores grew in profusion, and contributed to the thick coal beds now mined there. The early ages of the Cenozoic saw the spectacular rise of the mammals to dominance over reptiles on land; numerous remains of the early mammals are found in the Nacimiento and San Jose formations, including the famous Puerco and Torrejon faunas—as well as many clams, snails, fish, turtles, crocodiles, snakes, and birds.

Southeastern New Mexico appears to have been relatively level with only local hills and vast regions of featureless, stagnant but high plains where erosion slowly ate downward, deposition was slight, and most of the detritus was carried eastward far beyond the state’s borders. The redbeds of the Baca Formation were laid down on the north flank of low mountains that extended intermittently from somewhere near Quemado toward Socorro. Some ancient hills near present-day Sierra Blanca shed rock fragments that accumulated near Capitan as the varicolored Cub Mountain Formation. Deeply eroded uplands northwest of Elephant Butte Reservoir supplied gravels and sands that mingled with andesitic volcanic debris as the upper part of the McRae Formation in central Sierra County. Many of the weathered greenish and purplish volcanic rocks in southwestern New Mexico were extruded at this time, and beneath the surface these molten magmas (hot liquefied rocks) cut into older rocks. Vapors and hot solutions from the magmas are believed to have emplaced some of New Mexico’s vast ore deposits during this time.

The last phase of the Paleogene Period, about 25 to 40 m.y. ago, was an earth-shaking time in New Mexico—and the first explosion of an atomic bomb in 1945 on the Jornada del Muerto between Socorro and Carrizozo was a relatively low-energy-yield event compared with the late Paleogene earth movements. Almost the entire southwestern quarter of the state literally exploded, with volcanic eruptions on a grand scale. These lava flows, rock breccias, ashes, pumice, and associated intrusives (molten rocks that did not make it to the surface) form the Datil-Mogollon plateau—at least 100 miles in diameter—as part of the Datil Formation, which locally is miles thick, and made up the main mass of many other ranges near the Mexican border. Sierra Blanca (12,003 feet altitude) northeast of Alamogordo is a huge, isolated volcanic mass of late Paleogene age.

Figure 3. East-west cross section of Rio Grande graben near Santa Fe

This widespread volcanic activity continued into the Neogene Period which began about 25 m.y. ago. Rhyolites, pumice, and perlite in the southwest, as well as in other parts of the state, covered wide areas. Mount Taylor, towering up to 11,389 feet near Grants and visible on the western skyline from Albuquerque, is a Neogene volcanic pile, as are parts of the Sangre de Cristo range northeast of Taos. Shiprock and Cabezon Peak, landmarks in northwestern New Mexico, are volcanic necks—the eroded cores of ancient volcanoes.

Valle Grande caldera makes up the center of the Jemez Mountains west of Los Alamos and is a late Neogene volcanic mass with the central crater sixteen miles in diameter—one of the world’s largest calderas. Bandelier National Monument headquarters is within a canyon carved from Valle Grande’s ashes. Volcanic ash scattered over the western parts of Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas was blown from this volcano. Capulin Mountain, east of Raton, is a huge recent cinder cone and is surrounded by numerous basaltic lava flows that cap the High Plains from Raton eastward to Clayton. The very fresh black basalt flows near Carrizozo and in the valley of Rio San Jose near Grants are probably less than 1000 years old. Numerous mesas along the Rio Grande Valley from the Colorado line to El Paso are capped by black basalt flows of late Neogene age.

Many of the present-day mountains were uplifted in early Neogene time, following the climax of the great volcanic eruptions. This uplifting, in many instances, took place along one side of huge mountain masses, forming tilted fault blocks like the Sandia, Manzano, San Andres, and Sacramento mountains. Rock beds in the Sandia Mountains, for example, dip to the east, but were uplifted along a west-bounding fault zone—a huge break in the earth’s crust—as much as four miles! This was an earth-shaking event! However, the uplifting took place slowly, and indeed is continuing today as the Albuquerque area, along with the Rio Grande Valley southward to Socorro, is one of the most active earthquake areas in the state.

Concurrent with uplift, other blocks of the earth’s crust sank, forming graben basins which were flooded with rock debris from the adjoining uplifts. A tremendous irregular graben, now followed by the Rio Grande, cut north-south across the state. Geologists label it the Rio Grande structural depression ([fig. 3]). Mountains on the east are the Sangre de Cristo, Sandia, Manzano, Los Pinos, Fra Cristobal, and Caballo ranges; those to the west include the Brazos, Jemez, Ladron, Socorro, Magdalena, and San Mateo mountains. Within this complex graben, and around the bordering ranges, the colorful sandstones and siltstones of the Santa Fe Group were deposited—these red, yellow, orange, and cream rocks are eroded in many places, such as near Santa Fe, to “badlands” characteristic of the landscapes along the Rio Grande Valley from Espanola southward to El Paso. Much brightly tinted silicified wood is found in these beds, and literally freight-car loads of mammalian remains have been shipped to museums from outcrops near Espanola.

In the basins amid the mountains of southwestern New Mexico, similar sands and gravels of the Gila Conglomerate filled low areas. East of the mountains of central New Mexico that form a north-south chain of ranges from Raton to Carlsbad, thin gravels of the Ogallala Formation were dumped onto the western edges of the High Plains. They now cap the plains as well as make picturesque bluffs east of the Pecos River and southeast of Tucumcari—the “caprock” of that area. In northwestern New Mexico, isolated mesas are topped by the Chuska and Bidahochi formations; similar sands, silts, and clays washed from adjoining highlands.

The final episodes of landscape formation occurred during the Pleistocene Epoch, the recent glacial period. Mountain valley glaciers occupied some of the higher parts of the state, as far southward as Sierra Blanca; large lakes filled many of the closed basins, such as those near Estancia and south of Lordsburg; the Carrizozo and Grants basalt flows were extruded; the final tremendous explosions of Valle Grande spread volcanic ash over large regions; sands, gravels, and clays were eroded and deposited by streams and in lakes; and sand dunes were heaped up in many areas. The glistening white gypsum dunes ([fig. 4]) of White Sands National Monument, built up into 50-foot-high mounds windward of gypsiferous Lake Lucero, are spectacular products of the wind.

The Rio Grande, in its present valley, probably is only as old as mid-Pleistocene, born during late uplift of its headwater mountains, the San Juan and Sangre de Cristo ranges in southern Colorado and northern New Mexico—initiated by floods of meltwaters from waning mountain glaciers. Some of the lower terraces (benches) along the Rio Grande are very young, being dated by radiocarbon methods at 2600 b.p. (before present). Until shackled by Elephant Butte Dam in 1916, and smaller dams up and down the valley, the Rio Grande switched its course with every large springtime flood. Even with these man-made controls, the Rio carves new channels during floods and covers flooded fields with silt as the high waters recede.

PRECAMBRIAN ERA

The highest points in New Mexico are in the north-central region. Here, along the backbone of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, tower Wheeler Peak (13,160 feet above sea level), northeast of Taos, and South Truchas Peak (13,102 feet), northeast of Santa Fe. Snow lingers on these lofty spires all year around except during an especially hot August. Highest peaks—they must be capped by the youngest rocks. But no, the quartzites and gneisses, hard rocks made up of quartz and feldspar, that hold up these pinnacles against the attack of water and ice are among the oldest rocks known in the Southwest—perhaps as much as two billion years old. These Precambrian rocks lay deep beneath the earth’s surface from early Paleozoic time (500 m.y. ago?) until early Neogene time, then were uplifted along great breaks in the earth’s crust, uplifted slowly and intermittently during the span of time from about 20 m.y. ago to perhaps 1 m.y. ago.

Figure 4. Gypsum dunes of White Sands

How did these ancient rocks form? What did New Mexico look like during the dawn of geologic history? The record in stone is fragmentary. But about two billion or so years back, thick masses of quartz sandstone were laid down in north-central New Mexico, as well as vast lenses of mud, and some beds of feldspar-rich sandstone. Volcanic activity was intense; huge flows of rhyolite and andesite were poured out over most of the state, and these in turn, along with the muddy and sandy sediments, were intruded by enormous masses of hot granite. Mile-high mountains were formed, and during the stretch of this early geologic time, called the Precambrian Era, the high peaks were eroded by rain, wind, and sun until some were worn down to featureless plains sloping toward the ancient ancestral oceans.

Figure 5. Staurolite twin crystals in mica schist

These Precambrian rocks now make up the cores of such mountain ranges as the Sandias east of Albuquerque, the Sangre de Cristo range near Santa Fe, the Pedernal Hills south of Clines Corners, the Burro Mountains southwest of Silver City, the Brazos Range east of Tierra Amarilla, the Zuni Mountains southwest of Grants, and the San Andres Mountains west of White Sands. As seen in Tijeras Canyon east of Albuquerque, the bulk of the ancient rocks are gray to pinkish granite and granite gneiss, speckled by crystals of biotite, microcline, orthoclase, and quartz. Quartzites (hardened sandstones), greenstone, and foliated mica schists ([fig. 5]) are the older rocks that were intruded by granitic magmas about 1350 million years ago—as indicated by dating of radioactive isotopes, K-Ar and Rb-Sr. Locally, pegmatite dikes, a late-cooling, large-crystal stage of the granites, crisscross the granite and contain excellent crystals of quartz, feldspar, and mica, as well as less common minerals. The famous Harding pegmatite near Dixon, about forty miles north of Santa Fe, contains beryl, columbite-tantalite, lepidolite mica, spodumene, and other rare minerals. Some of these crystals are ten feet in length!

PALEOZOIC ERA

There are some primitive types of plant and animal life known from Precambrian rocks outside of New Mexico but the earliest beds that contain abundant fossils are those of Cambrian age, 500 to 600 m.y. old. Cambrian rocks in New Mexico are in the Bliss Sandstone, a reddish brown iron-rich bed, 50 to 200 feet thick, that occurs only in the southern part of the state. There it can be seen, for example, along the bold east-facing escarpment of the San Andres Mountains or the west-facing cliffs of the Caballo Mountains, as a dark band resting on the pinkish Precambrian granitic rocks. It is a shallow-sea sand, deposited on the northeastern edge of the Cambrian seas. Scattered amid the brown-stained quartz, red hematite, and green glauconite are broken shells of trilobites and primitive brachiopods. Northern New Mexico was a low, broad island during Cambrian time, a source of some of the sands in the Bliss Sandstone.

During the Ordovician Period, 425 to 500 m.y. ago, upper sands of the Bliss as well as overlying limestones and dolomites were deposited in the shallow warm seas of southern New Mexico; these latter rocks are the El Paso Limestone and Montoya Dolomite. The Ordovician seas teemed with invertebrate life. Fifteen-foot-long cephalopods, as much as a foot in diameter, ruled the shallow salt-water bottoms, munching on the abundant trilobites and the moss animals, the bryozoans. Numerous brachiopods, corals, snails, and clams also thrived, with many of the Ordovician carbonate-rock beds literally being made up of these fossil remains. Near El Paso, these limy fossiliferous beds are nearly 2000 feet thick, but they thin northward to a knife edge in thickness near Mockingbird Gap at the north end of the San Andres Mountains. Parts of northwestern New Mexico may have been low islands exposed to the sun and erosion during Ordovician time, but most of the state was probably within an extensive shallow ocean. Later, erosion removed the Ordovician rocks from central and northern New Mexico.

Silurian strata, the brown Fusselman Dolomite, deposited during the middle of that period (400 to 425 m.y. ago), remain only in the southern and southeastern parts of the state, thinning out northward from the 1000-foot-thick bed near El Paso. The extent of these middle Silurian seas is not known, but most of central and northern New Mexico was undergoing erosion during late Silurian time. The northward thinning of the Fusselman Dolomite is due chiefly to this erosion, evidenced by the knobby, ridged and channeled top surface of the Fusselman. Brachiopods and corals are the most abundant fossils in the Fusselman Dolomite; elsewhere, Silurian rocks are known for the sea scorpions or eurypterids, which attained a length of nine feet, and for the complete remains of primitive fishes.

During early and middle Devonian time (345 to 400 m.y. ago), most of New Mexico was a lowland rotting beneath the sun. Fossiliferous Devonian rocks are unknown in the north-central part of the state but occur beneath the surface in the Four Corners region of northwestern New Mexico and the adjoining states. These rocks are of late Devonian age and consist of lower dolomite and sandstone, middle shale and dolomite, and the upper Ouray Limestone.

In southern New Mexico, a uniform blanket of dark limy muds, called the Percha Shale, was deposited during late Devonian time. This shale marks a great change from the limestones of earlier ages. In part, it is of black muds deposited in widespread or in local stagnant basins and in part calcareous fossiliferous muds in which abundant invertebrate life was buried. The clay and quartz silt that make up the rocks were a weathered residuum that had accumulated, during the long period of late Silurian and early and middle Devonian times, on the lowland of central and northern New Mexico.

Except in the stagnant basins, invertebrate life was prolific, brachiopods, bryozoans, and corals being especially numerous. Fossil fish remnants, chiefly teeth, are abundant in some of the sandy units, and outside of New Mexico the earliest amphibians occur in upper Devonian rocks. The oldest definitely known assemblage of land plants occurs in the Devonian, and forests containing forty-foot-high trees spread over the uplands. Such tree ferns, horsetail rushes, and lycopods (spiked-leafed trees) may have grown in profusion on the swampy lowlands near Albuquerque’s and Santa Fe’s present sites, far north of the muddy Devonian seas of southern New Mexico.

Figure 6. Fossil specimens

Brachiopod
Marginifera.

Crinoid
stem fragment.

Crinoid
restoration of a crinoid.

Mississippian rocks (310 to 345 m.y. old) probably were deposited over most of New Mexico. Subsequent erosion removed much of the Mississippian beds in northern New Mexico. The remnants, less than 100 feet thick in most places, are of lower sandy and shaly beds overlain by massive crinoidal limestones, the Arroyo Penasco Formation of the Nacimiento and Sandia mountains and the Tererro Formation of the Sangre de Cristo range east of Santa Fe.

In southern New Mexico, the Mississippian beds are thick and widespread, being more than 1000 feet in thickness in the southwestern panhandle. There the rock units are the Escabrosa Limestone of the southwest or the Lake Valley Limestone of the south-central part of the state. These are massive fossiliferous limestones precipitated in shallow extensive seas abounding with invertebrate life. Huge gardens of the sea lilies, crinoids, spread over the area, their remains mingled with those of lacy moss animals, the bryozoans, and with brachiopods and corals. Locally, as in the region of the Sacramento and San Andres mountains and Black Range, moundlike fossil reefs, called bioherms, were built. Some of these bioherms in the Sacramento Mountains are mounds of fossiliferous limestones 350 feet high and several thousand feet in diameter. Beds on their flanks dip as much as 35 degrees and are made up of broken “fossil hash” calcite sands. One can stand at the base of these huge limestone hills and almost hear the ancient waves breaking against the reef and see the dying struggle of the brachiopod ([fig. 6]) that left his shell in the reef-flank sands.

To the south, beginning near the present site of White Sands, dark cherty limestones were laid down in stagnant waters, to become the Rancheria Limestone. This black to reddish brown siliceous limestone is more than 300 feet thick near El Paso. There its thin beds break down into slabs that resemble a jumbled woodpile.

Northern New Mexico was above sea level during late Mississippian time; in some areas caves developed in the porous limestones, and in other places the limestones were eroded to a residuum of chert and red clay. The land must have looked like the karst areas of Indiana, Kentucky, and Illinois today—with lost rivers flowing into sink holes, numerous caves, and many underground rivers. Only the southernmost part of the state was awash in the late Mississippian seas, and in these salt waters, rocks of the Helms and Paradise formations settled. They are typical nearshore beds of yellowish limy sandstone, green limy shales, and brown sandy oolitic limestones. Plant fossils occur intermingled with marine animal remains; the plant fragments were washed into the shallow seas from the land areas of the central and northern parts of the state.

The Pennsylvanian Period (280 to 310 m.y. ago) was a time of change. Previously, northern New Mexico had been an emergent lowland or barely awash in shallow waters, while to the south shallow but extensive seas held sway, the spawning ground of the vertebrates and invertebrates that evolved between 310 and 600 m.y. B.C. But mountains were built during the Pennsylvanian, and the whole pattern of land and sea was altered. The sun rose on north-south aligned ranges interspersed with north-south-trending seas ([fig. 7]). Somewhere north of Albuquerque a mighty range of mountains, the Uncompahgre Range, arose to shed rock debris into adjoining ocean basins. To the southeast, a lower but prominent range, the Pedernal Mountains, stretched from the present-day Pedernal Hills southward to somewhere near Ruidoso and Piñon. Rocks eroded from this landmass were dumped westward into the Orogrande basin which occupied the region near the present-day White Sands; there as much as 3000 feet of beds accumulated—impure sandstones, dark shales, fragmental limestones, and even some gypsum during the end phase of Pennsylvanian sedimentation.

Rocks filled the Delaware basin in southeastern New Mexico—limestones, sandstones, and black shales that now produce oil and gas. In northwestern New Mexico west of Grants and mostly west of the Zuni Mountains, a low land area, the Zuni Islands, was the source of eroded residuum released into an ocean channelway that ran north-northwest through central New Mexico from El Paso to Farmington. And in the northeast, granite hills of the Sierra Grande Arch stood above the shallow Pennsylvanian seas.

In the Four Corners region, broken rock from the Uncompahgre Range was rushed westward into the Pennsylvanian-age Paradox Basin. Amid the clastic limestones, black shale, gypsum, and salt of this basin are oil-bearing lenses. Today, oil wells pump this black “gold” from the ancient rocks—wells almost in the shadow of Shiprock’s famous spire.

The Pennsylvanian Period was a time of coal making on the greatest scale in the earth’s history. Extensive swamps and marshes, the habitat of peat and ultimately coal, were almost lacking in New Mexico. Thus, only thin scattered lenses of coal occur in the Pennsylvanian beds of the state. The lands of this period were covered by tree ferns, scale trees, horsetail rushes, and primitive conifers. In the shallow seas, the dominant invertebrates were fusulinids ([fig. 8]), small-shelled protozoans shaped like grains of wheat. Abundant cockroaches, large dragonflies, and spiders swarmed over the land.

Figure 7. New Mexico during Pennsylvanian time

Permian Rocks

The Permian Period (230 to 280 m.y. ago) dawned with renewed rising of the highlands in northern New Mexico and southern Colorado. Floods of red sand and clay, washed from the rotting hills, wiped out the seas of northern and central New Mexico, and intertongued southward with marine limestones. These early Permian rocks are the Hueco Limestone near El Paso, there 2200 feet thick, the Abo Redbeds near Albuquerque, and the upper Sangre de Cristo Redbeds southeast of Santa Fe. Wherever the redbeds crop out, their dark reddish brown hue, speckled and striped with spots and streaks of green, enlivens the drab gray-and-brown landscape. Some of the reddish coloring is from angular grains of red to orange feldspar, but most is in thin brilliantly tinted skins of hematite that coat the sand grains and saturate the clays. In northern and central New Mexico, amphibians and other primitive vertebrate animals lived amid the red soils and sands; their bones and imprints have been preserved on thin flat slabs of sandstone that now decorate sidewalks and patios.

Figure 8. Fossil specimens

Bryozoan
Fenestrellina.

Fusulinid
Fusulina.

Coral
Lophophyllidium.

The early Permian seashore, where limy muds beyond the surf intermingled with red sandy muds swept from the north, vacillated somewhere north of Alamogordo with each sea-level change. Amid the breakers, and as submarine banks in the shallow waters, reefs grew—moundlike masses of shell debris and calcite mud trapped among frondlike calcareous algae. Near Tularosa, these algal “bioherms” are sixty feet high and extend within broad belts half a mile wide. In southeastern New Mexico, these buried “Abo” reefs have yielded much oil.

By the middle of Permian time, the southern Colorado mountains had been worn down to low hills that lay north of an extensive sea covering most of New Mexico. From Santa Fe south to White Sands and southeastward almost to Carlsbad, very shallow marine waters were alternately stifled by pale-red sandy muds or evaporated by the sun. The results were alternating beds of pale-red sandstone, gypsum, and silty dolomitic limestone, called the Yeso Formation. Locally, as near Carrizozo, thick deposits of rock salt also were precipitated, and the Yeso there is about 4000 feet thick. At this time, the Delaware basin of southeastern New Mexico saw the beginning of its most spectacular events, the building of the Capitan and Goat Seep reefs. This basin—a huge oval south of Carlsbad and east of Carlsbad Caverns—had been “deep” sea during most of Pennsylvanian time, but it was a more distinct geographic feature during the Permian. While the pale-red sands, gypsum, halite, and dolomitic limestones of the Yeso Formation were laid down to the north and northwest, the Delaware basin was rimmed by a low, broad bank of fossil-hash calcite sand, now called the Victorio Peak Limestone. In the basin, in deep stagnant waters, black sandy limestone and black shale of the Bone Spring Formation were deposited.

A sheet of white quartz sand filled the late Yeso seas; the resulting Glorieta Sandstone, about 200 feet thick, prominently caps Glorieta Mesa. Its cliffs are a familiar sight to travelers on the Santa Fe Railway at Glorieta Pass. The Coconino Sandstone in the Grand Canyon area of Arizona is the western part of the Glorieta. This “clean” sand—lacking intermixed mud—marks the continued lowering of the southern Colorado uplands. Broad seas then spread over all but northern New Mexico and a thick (600 to 1000 feet) persistent marine unit, the San Andres Limestone, was laid down. Much oil is produced in southeastern New Mexico from this dark-gray unit of limestones and dolomites. The rich agricultural region stretching from Roswell to Artesia depends on underground water gained from the San Andres Limestone, water that falls as rain and snow on the Sacramento Mountains, seeps underground into the cracks and caverns within the San Andres, and flows eastward downslope to the Pecos Valley.

The delicate balance between land and sea swung upward at the end of San Andres time as these late Permian seas retreated to southern New Mexico. The deep Delaware basin was the only persistent marine body of water. It was rimmed by magnificent towering barrier reefs, the Goat Seep and Capitan reefs that now are host to Carlsbad Caverns. These reefs were similar to the present-day Great Barrier Reef of Australia, except that the Capitan and Goat Seep reefs surrounded an inland sea whereas the Australian reef borders a continent. The Capitan reef is about 400 miles long, and other than oceanward channels cut through to the south, completely encircled the 10,000-square-mile Delaware basin. At its heyday, the Capitan reef was barely awash, and teeming with life, in contrast to the silent, stagnant deeps of the Delaware basin which were about 2000 feet below sea level only a few miles away from the barrier reef. On the steep slope into the basin, huge slump blocks of fossiliferous reef limestone slid, mingling with fossil-hash sand. These “flank” beds dip steeply from the massive reef core to interfinger with the black sandy limestones of the basin.

The Delaware basin was a marine feature throughout Late Paleozoic time; its northwestern border is now marked by the southeast-trending front of the Guadalupe Mountains southeast of Carlsbad; its north edge was east-northeast of Carlsbad, and it extended southward into West Texas.

Shallow “shelf” seas reached irregularly and intermittently northward and northwestward from the Capitan reef and mingled with low islands throughout all but southeastern New Mexico. Landward, away from the Delaware basin, the rocks change from massive, thick, light-gray limestones of the reefs into thin units of thin-bedded dolomite, then abruptly into alternating beds of gypsum and redbeds, the Artesia Group of rocks, and finally, marking the distant shorelines, into thin units of red mudstone and red sandstone, the Bernal Formation. Evaporation of sea water was excessive, and average temperatures high; the climate varied from semiarid in northwestern New Mexico to subtropical in the Delaware basin area—a contrast and a similarity to today’s climate.

Figure 9. Castile gypsum sample

Latest Permian time saw the dramatic end of the Paleozoic Era. Most of New Mexico was uplifted above sea level, with only the Delaware basin remaining as a land-locked sea, much like the Caspian Sea today, but with channels open periodically southward to the ocean. The rocks of this waning part of the Permian are called the Ochoan Series; they show an abrupt and striking change from the underlying Carlsbad reef limestones and associated black basin-filling limestones up into the laminated gypsum-anhydrite of the basal Ochoan rocks, the Castile formation. Normal marine conditions ended almost instantaneously. Excess of evaporation lowered the water level of the inland sea; the accumulated brine (concentrated salty sea water) killed the life on and near the Capitan reef, and thick beds of anhydrite were precipitated. The lowest beds of the Ochoan Series, the Castile Anhydrite, and the overlying Salado Salt, mostly filled the deep depression that was the Delaware basin; the upper beds, the Rustler Dolomite and Dewey Lake Redbeds, lap over the edges of the basin and in places rest irregularly upon the Capitan limestone.

These are unusual rocks. The Castile (about 1800 feet thick) is thinly banded, with thicker bands (laminae, thin layers) of light-gray gypsum-anhydrite alternating with thin laminae of dark-brown calcite ([fig. 9]). This lamination is believed due to annual changes, the brown calcite being precipitated during the summer and the gray anhydrite during the winter. On the surface, the calcium sulfate mineral is gypsum, but at depths of about 600 feet, these laminae are anhydrite. Addition of water to anhydrite has changed it to gypsum wherever ground water penetrated the laminae.

The Salado Salt, about 2000 feet thick, is almost entirely of rock salt (halite), with important interbeds of potassium-rich minerals—red sylvite, gray langbeinite, brownish bitter-tasting carnallite, and pale-red polyhalite. As all these salts are highly soluble in water, the Salado Salt nowhere “crops out” at the surface. East of Carlsbad, however, the potash-rich beds are mined underground, and supply about ninety per cent of the United States’ production—used chiefly as fertilizer.

The arid period of Salado Salt evaporation changed slightly as the dolomites and anhydrites of the Rustler Dolomite were laid down in the last drying moments (geologically speaking) of the Permian. Then as the seas retreated to the south, the fine-grained red sands and silts of the Dewey Lake Redbeds were spread as a thin blanket over the low lands basking under the hot Permian sun. This was a time of dying; whole races of vertebrate and invertebrate animals were wiped out, to be known today only from their fossil remains. As the dim unmarked episode of latest Permian time merged into the Triassic, an inkling of coming life was recorded in the rocks. The amphibians were more modern types, and they gave rise to the most striking of early land animals, the reptiles. This was the beginning of the conquest of the land by the reptiles, which culminated later in the dinosaurs, and was aided by the retreat of shallow seas from the continents, a change survived chiefly by the species adapted to living on land.

MESOZOIC ERA

The Mesozoic Era dawned in New Mexico on extensive plains, except for a northwest-trending range in the extreme north-central part of the state. During this, the early part of the Triassic Period (180 to 230 m.y. ago), sands and muds eroded from New Mexico were carried westward to northeastern Arizona where they now form the Moenkopi Formation, the brilliant reds and purples of the Painted Desert region. Uplands arose in late Triassic time in southwestern New Mexico. Along with mountains in south-central Colorado, these highlands were torn apart by water and wind, and the detritus was swept into sheets of brightly colored sand and shale. These beds are thickest (about 2000 feet) along the New Mexico—Texas line east of Roswell and in west-central New Mexico (near Grants) extending westward into northeastern Arizona. The eastern Triassic rocks are the redbeds of the Dockum Group with the lower Santa Rosa Sandstone and the upper Chinle beds. The northwestern rocks are the Chinle Formation overlain by the redbeds of the Wingate Sandstone.

The Chinle Formation is of special scenic interest as its beds contain the silicified trees so well shown at Petrified Forest National Monument. These varicolored rocks—red, purple, green, and gray—also decorate the Painted Desert area, the wide valley of Rio San Jose east of Laguna, and flank Interstate 40 (U.S. Highway 66) from the Texas line westward almost to Clines Corners. As some beds are weathered “ash” beds, the highlands were sites of volcanoes that spread their dust over much of the Southwest. In contrast to the underlying marine Paleozoic rocks, these Triassic beds were deposited on land by streams and in shallow lakes. Thus the beasts that roamed New Mexico were amphibians—such as the thick-skulled stegocephalians—and reptiles of the crocodilelike clan, the phytosaurs. The silicified trees in the Chinle are mostly primitive pines; some grew to heights of more than 100 feet and measure 7 feet in diameter.

New Mexico was featureless rolling prairie, with scattered low hills in the northwest, during most of Jurassic time (135 to 180 m.y. ago). In the late part of the period, the Sundance-Curtis sea and its shoreline lagoons spread down from the north into northwestern New Mexico. Sand dunes on its southeastern shores consolidated into the cross-bedded Entrada Sandstone; its reddish brown cliffs rim the Rio San Jose Valley near Grants and Gallup. In an extensive lagoon, or salt-water lake that covered most of northwestern and north-central New Mexico, the gypsum and limestone of the Todilto Formation were precipitated; this gypsum is the bed mined near Rosario siding (seen between Albuquerque and Santa Fe) by the Kaiser Gypsum Company, and near San Ysidro on White Mesa by the American Gypsum Company. The Todilto salty basin was overwhelmed by reddish sands and silts of the Summerville Formation, washed chiefly from the south, and by the multicolored sands of the Zuni Sandstone (exposed at El Morro), and then the stream and wind-blown sands and clays of the varicolored Morrison Formation were laid down in northern New Mexico. Petrified wood and bone fragments are abundant in the Morrison beds—along with uranium—but no fossil finds in New Mexico equal those in the Morrison Formation of Dinosaur National Park, Utah.

Much of North America, including southern New Mexico, was land during the Jurassic. In the streams and lakes were many kinds of fishes, amphibians, reptiles, snails, crustaceans, and water bugs; on dry land were hordes of reptiles, small primitive mammals, and ants; in the air were flying reptiles, the earliest known birds, moths, and butterflies. The earth was ruled by the reptiles, with the dinosaurs dominant—some being the most ponderous land animals of all earth history. Such were Stegosaurus and Brachiosaurus, the latter 85 feet long and weighing 50 tons.

The Cretaceous Period (70 to 135 m.y. ago) was one of great contrast in New Mexico. During Early Cretaceous time, most of the central and northern parts of the state were low lands torn by erosion, while thick piles of conglomerate, sandstone, and shale accumulated in depressions in the southwestern corner. Huge volcanoes near Lordsburg added their hot ashes, bombs, and flows to the sedimentary detritus, and thick fossiliferous limestones were laid down in muddy and sandy waters of the sea—the shoreline fluctuated over tens of miles in areas south of Lordsburg, Deming, and El Paso. These Early Cretaceous beds total 20,000 feet in thickness in some areas. In eastern and northeastern New Mexico, in contrast, thin sheets of quartz sand were deposited by streams on the edge of a shallow sea, and black muds in local lagoons.

Rock beds thousands of feet thick were laid down in northern and central New Mexico during Late Cretaceous time, whereas most of the southern part of the state was above sea level and was being eroded by tireless winds and streams. The shorelines made parallel northwest-trending bands across the state. These are now marked by beach sands, some of which are speckled by black minerals, high in rare elements titanium, niobium, and zirconium. Northwestern and central New Mexico was a battleground of the land and sea, with the beaches advancing and retreating fifty or a hundred miles during an instant of geologic time. Stream sands and coal beds lie landward from the beach sands which, in turn, mingle seaward with black limy shales that were flushed into the seas. The lowest of these rocks is the Dakota Sandstone—famous as an artesian aquifer in the High Plains areas of states to the northeast—Colorado, the Dakotas, Nebraska, Kansas, Wyoming, and Montana. Above is the black Mancos Shale, which in turn is overlain by the Mesaverde Group.

The transitions from coal swamps and stream sands to beach deposits and then into marine black shales is characteristic of the Mesaverde in northwestern and north-central New Mexico. To the northeast, beds of the same age were laid down in an extensive muddy sea that stretched far to the east; the Pierre Shale and Niobrara chalky limestone that underlie the plains northeast of Las Vegas are typical. The cliff-forming sandstones and coal beds near Gallup are part of the Mesaverde Group and rim the entire San Juan Basin. Above are similar rocks such as the Kirtland Shale, Pictured Cliffs Sandstone, and Fruitland Formation that underlie valleys cut in the shales and cliffs carved from the sandstones in the northwest corner of New Mexico near Farmington.

Toward the end of the Cretaceous, the Laramide “revolution” began, and New Mexico along with most of North America emerged from beneath the seas, to be high and dry to the present. The revolution, an extensive upheaval of the earth’s crust, saw uplift of the San Juan Mountains area in southwestern Colorado and large volcanoes spouting fire and ashes nearby. Fragments of the eroded mountains and debris from these andesitic volcanoes were flushed southward by streams and steam to settle as thick piles of mud, sandstone, and conglomerate, the McDermott and Animas formations in the San Juan Basin. The last moment of Cretaceous time, if we could be so precise, was ushered out almost unnoticed—with mountains rising to the north and the andesitic-quartz detritus being laid down to the south in the upper beds of the Animas Formation.

Similarly, mountains arose during Late Cretaceous time in north-central New Mexico and south-central Colorado, about on the site of the present-day Sangre de Cristo range northeast of Taos, and shed erosional gravels and muds into the Raton Basin area. Alluvial fan gravels and sands grade eastward into dark muds and coals laid down in swamps and on floodplains. These rocks now cap the rugged mesas seen northwest of the Santa Fe Railway from Raton southward—the cliff-forming Trinidad Sandstone and the dark siltstones, sandstones, black shales, and coal beds of the Vermejo and Raton formations. The Kaiser Steel Corporation mine near Koehler extracts coal from these beds. Again, the exact end of the Cretaceous is marked only by some obscure boundary between beds, in that area within the Raton Formation.

During the Cretaceous Period, the deciduous trees—such as the oak, maple, poplar, and elm that dominate today’s flora—became common. The covered-seed plants, the angiosperms, are the most notable of the Cretaceous plants, but the development of the modern floras was an antecedent to the great expansion of mammals and birds during the following Cenozoic Era. Reptiles ruled the earth, led by the dinosaurs ([fig. 10]) and their distinctive group, the horned large-skulled ceratopsians such as Triceratops. The small, hairy, warm-blooded mammals were still insignificant creatures that ran from their huge dinosaur lords, but they ate reptile eggs, and so excelled the sluggish reptiles in mental and physical activity that they adapted swiftly to the changing environments of the Laramide revolution—and became dominant as the pea-brained reptiles were unable to stand the changes.

The shallow seas of the Cretaceous swarmed with invertebrate life; foraminifers (unicellular protozoans) in uncountable billions make up large parts of the chalky limestones. Mollusks, particularly clams like oysters and the heavy ribbed Inoceramus, and complexly sutured cephalopods, the ammonites, as well as the internal-shelled belemnoids (that look like cigars), were most numerous among larger marine animals. Reef builders in southwestern New Mexico were the peculiarly corallike clams, the rudistids. Widespread warm humid climates seem to have prevailed throughout the state during most of the Cretaceous.

LANDSCAPES AND MINERAL RESOURCES

Thus as the Cretaceous seas withdrew from New Mexico, the Cenozoic Era dawned, and never again have marine waters shaped the landscapes. The rocks, Precambrian, Paleozoic, Mesozoic, and Cenozoic, and their ancient movements determine New Mexico’s spectacular landscapes. They tell tales of the endless war between erosion and hard rock, show the deposition of sediments, their uplift, and their eventual destruction. The result is striking scenery—volcanic mountains, as Mount Taylor, Sierra Blanca, Valle Grande—fresh lava flows near Carrizozo and Grants—volcanic necks like Shiprock and Cabezon—White Sands, the work of the wind—El Morro, Enchanted Mesa, Acoma, and badlands near Santa Fe, the result of weathering and erosion—great fault-line escarpments of the Sandia, Manzano, San Andres, and Sacramento mountains—the work of underground waters at Carlsbad Caverns. And man adds his erosive powers—the huge open-pit copper mine at Santa Rita and countless excavations for rock to build homes, to straighten highways.

Figure 10. Make way for ’is lordship, the Dinosaur!

The sun can be harsh and hot, the rain sparse, the winter nights fierce cold. But within the rocks are natural resources undreamed of by the early Indians, almost untouched by the Spanish, and with potential beyond vision for the future. Water, being scarce, is one of the more important resources. With an average yearly precipitation of only fifteen inches, and more than half of the state receiving less than that average, water is a problem! Farming must depend upon irrigation, the water being drawn from streams or “mined” from underground “pools” where it had been accumulating for centuries.

Forests, game, and fish are lucrative resources somewhat unexpected in a semiarid state; sheep and cattle—in this the stronghold of the cowboy, famous in gunfighter lore—each total more than a million. New Mexico’s 1965 mineral production, valued at $781.9 million, ranked seventh among the states. Principal commodities won from the rocks, in order of value, were oil, potash, natural gas, uranium, copper, sand and gravel, zinc, coal, crushed stone, and perlite. Sizeable quantities of barite, beryl, carbon dioxide, cement, clays, gem stones, gold, gypsum, helium, iron ore, lead, limestone, magnesium compounds, manganese, mica, molybdenum, pumice, salt, silver, sulfur, and vanadium were also mined. The huge open-pit copper mine at Santa Rita, the many uranium mines near Grants, the underground potash mines near Carlsbad, and the thousands of oil and gas wells in the northwestern and southeastern parts of the state are typical of man-made landscape features attributable to mineral exploitation in New Mexico. Numerous old mine dumps, rotting mine shafts, and spooky ghost towns are reminders of past fortunes won and lost.

The rocks, the work of water, wind, and sun, and the not insignificant upheavals by man have shaped New Mexico’s landscapes. Blended with its blue skies, warm sun, and the products of three cultures—Indian, Spanish, and American—the rocks and their movements have made the landscapes a land of enchantment.

Earth wears a mantle rich with lore,

of storied fabric finely spun,

That tells of kingdoms come and gone,

of legions lost and battles won.

No seer no monarch can divine,

the cryptic writings; he alone,

Who humbly speaks the tongue of earth,

can find a story in a stone.

Before Coronado

by Robert H. Weber

The cultural heritage of New Mexico is a rich and colorful one, blending as it does the three separate traditions of Indian, Spanish, and Anglo-American. Of these, the lifeways of the Indian, ancient and modern, are of particular interest to both the visitor and resident. These were the first inhabitants of the New World, whose roots extend back in time many thousands of years before the first European set foot here. People who had adapted themselves to the varied and often harsh environments of desert, plain, valley, canyon, and mountain; who witnessed the disappearance of the large mammals of the Pleistocene Ice Age and concomitant changes in climate and vegetation; the first prospectors and miners seeking flint, obsidian, turquoise, clay, salt, and mineral pigments; early traders exchanging valued minerals and handicrafts for shells of the coastal regions; hunters and farmers, architects and builders, civic and religious leaders, philosophers and critics, skilled craftsmen and artists, explorers and soldiers—all ancient counterparts of those who were to follow.

In 1540, when the train of soldiers in the company of Coronado’s Spanish Expedition entered the unknown lands later called New Mexico, four groups of native Americans were established residents in the area. Along the arable valley of the Rio Grande and its tributaries, and in several outlying areas were the adobe and stone apartment-house villages of the Pueblo Indians, whose livelihood was based largely on agriculture. East of the mountains were scattered bands of Plains Indians, Eastern Apaches, who were nomadic hunters following the herds of buffalo that ranged across the vast grasslands of the High Plains. Western Apaches were dispersed in small bands of hunters and gatherers of wild foods through the mountainous country to the west of the Rio Grande. A related group, the Navajo, augmented the necessities of life gained by hunting and gathering with subordinate agricultural crops in the Plateau region to the northwest.

Early contacts of the conquistadores were largely with the Pueblo Indians, although they had limited knowledge of the Apaches and Navajos in outlying districts. There was little to suggest to the Spanish invaders, except for the ruins of long-abandoned Pueblo villages, that the fragmentary record of thousands of years of human prehistory lay scattered in the dust beneath their feet. Undoubtedly they would have dismissed as utter nonsense any notion that men armed with stone-tipped spears had here slain elephants in a marsh 12,000 years old that now lay buried beneath shifting sands of a desert landscape. Indeed, it was not until the last quarter of the 1800’s that serious attempts were made to decipher the prehistoric traces of the Pueblo Indians, whereas concrete evidence that man had hunted long-extinct Pleistocene big game in America was not discovered until less than forty years ago.

EARLY HUNTERS

The year 1926 was marked by the first of a series of important archeological finds in New Mexico that were eventually to demonstrate that man had occupied this area as much as 11,000 to 12,000 years ago. During this period, Late Pleistocene ice sheets of continental glaciers still blanketed parts of the northern tier of states in the vicinity of the Great Lakes, and elephants (both mammoths and mastodons), horses, camels, giant bison, tapirs, and ground sloths roamed the Southwest. Excavations begun in 1926 near the small town of Folsom, in northeastern New Mexico ([fig. 1]), disclosed a number of fossil skeletons of a large form of extinct bison, forerunners of the modern bison or buffalo. Among these bones were dart or spear points of distinctive form and workmanship, characterized by broad, shallow flutes or channels on each face ([fig. 2]). These artifacts, now known as Folsom points, have since been recovered from a number of sites in New Mexico and elsewhere in North America, commonly in association with the remains of extinct bison. Evidently Folsom “Man” (whose skeletal remains have not been discovered) was a nomadic hunter particularly dependent upon the bison for his food supply, much as were the later Plains Indians of historic time. Ages of from 10,000 to 11,000 years have been obtained from charcoal and other organic remains at Folsom camp sites by the radiocarbon method.

Succeeding years have seen an increasing number of valuable archeological discoveries at camp and game-kill sites of Folsom Man and other Early Hunters. Unquestionably, the most important of these sites is the Blackwater Draw locality between Clovis and Portales in extreme eastern New Mexico, where excavations for gravel disclosed a stratified sequence of sediments that were deposited in an ancient pond and spring. Here, too, were the characteristic Folsom points in association with the bones of fossil bison. Below the Folsom layer, still older deposits contained the fossil bones of mammoth, horse, camel, and bison associated with fluted spear points that resembled those from Folsom but were generally larger and less skillfully chipped and fluted. These points, now known as Clovis points, are so commonly found beside the remains of mammoths in a number of sites in the High Plains and the Southwest that their makers are believed to have been adept at hunting these extinct elephants. Radiocarbon dates place Clovis points in a time range of from 11,000 to 12,000 years ago.

In a layer above that containing Folsom points at Blackwater Draw, several varieties of unfluted lanceolate points were found to be associated with the bones of fossil bison. These points have been identified by various specific names such as Plainview, Milnesand, Eden, and Scottsbluff from excavated sites elsewhere in the High Plains region, and probably range in age from 8000 to 10,000 years. Although the giant bison still survived into this level of stratigraphy and time, the elephant, camel, and horse of the Clovis level had disappeared from the area.