Needlework Economies

Needlework
Economies

EDITED BY
FLORA KLICKMANN
A Book of
Making and Mending
with Oddments
and Scraps

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edited by FLORA KLICKMANN.]

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NEEDLEWORK
ECONOMIES

The Flower-Patch
among the Hills

By FLORA KLICKMANN,

Editor of the “GIRL’S OWN AND WOMAN’S MAGAZINE,” etc.

With Photogravure Portrait of the Author.

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The Home Art Series

Needlework
Economies

A Book of
Mending and Making
with
Oddments and Scraps
EDITED BY
FLORA KLICKMANN
Editor of “The Girl’s Own Paper and Woman’s Magazine.”

London:
The Office of “The Girl’s Own Paper & Woman’s Magazine”
4 Bouverie Street & 65 St. Paul’s Churchyard, E.C. 4.

Possessing valuable flesh and bone-forming
properties, it is extremely nourishing and
easily digested.
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nutriment that enables mothers to nurse their babies. INVALIDS
and the AGED find it an ideal breakfast and supper food.
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Send for Free Booklet “ADVICE TO MOTHERS,”
Dept. N.E., KEEN, ROBINSON & Co., Ltd., LONDON, E. 1.

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN

Preface.

War is a hard, stern teacher, and its lessons are bitter in the learning; yet some of its teaching we badly needed—and not the least important of its many lessons is the one it inculcated on the criminality of waste.

To so many of us “waste” was a word with a comparative meaning. What was waste in one woman was not necessarily waste in another, we argued. It was wrong for the factory girl to let her skirts drop off her for lack of mending; but not wrong for better-off women to discard their clothes directly they showed the least sign of wear, because they could afford to buy more, we said; and, besides, it made it good for trade—that was a favourite argument used by the extravagant to excuse their wanton waste.

But we have all learnt the value of economy of recent years: and we have seen how the saving and thrift of individuals may mean the salvation of the State. It will be a long time before we can ever return to that condition of easy-going plenty that we knew before the war. In any case the cost of all commodities will remain higher in price. The woman who can utilize oddments and make things with her own hands is the woman who will be making money, as she will be supplying one of the most expensive items of modern times—personal labour. The hints in this book are intended as suggestions, which can be developed in many new directions.

Part I.
Dress Economies.

The Brassiere.

The Brassiere, or bust bodice, is an essential garment for those who wish to keep the form neat in appearance now when the low cut corset is so much in vogue. It has the great advantage of correcting round shoulders in those who are inclined to stoop when walking, and prevents that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused by the top of the corset.

The Crochet Trimming gives a pretty finish.

They are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as many as she requires, for they are expensive articles to buy, and the garments one makes for one’s self are likely to outlast three or four of the bought kind and this, too, at about one-third the cost.

This Section of the Front shows the actual size of the Crochet.

The pattern for the Brassiere shown here is in three parts, the front, side-front and back. Half a yard of 36 inch wide linen or cambric is sufficient. The material used must be strong but fine, and linen is, of course, the best for wearing qualities.

Having cut out the sections, join all seams with a row of stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, open out the seams flat and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge turned inwards, each should then be half an inch wide. Stitch close to the edge at each side. The three centre casings have buttonholes worked in the centre of the casing, in an upward direction, each an inch in length. These are to admit of a strip of whalebone, eight inches in length and which can readily be removed for washing.

Turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in place. Make the insertion and place in position on the front, mark the lines at each side, cut the material along the centre where the various strips are to be, turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round. Then turn a hem all round the edge and stitch.

With an Irish Crochet Insertion.

With the crochet hook, put a row of 8 ch 1 d c into the edge of the hem from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around each armhole. Into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice, with 5 ch 1 d c from loop to loop.

Sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back, and a long strip of tape to the lower edge. The tapes are crossed at the back and brought round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere.

The Insertion.

This is the pretty Rose beading in Irish crochet, and is made with Manlove’s Irish lace thread, No. 50, with a No. 6 crochet hook.

Form 6 ch into a ring.

1st Row.—6 ch 1 tr into the ring, 3 ch 1 tr into the ring 4 times, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch.

2nd Row.—1 d c 7 tr 1 d c into each loop.

3rd Row.—5 ch 1 d c into the d c between the petals in last row.

4th Row.—1 d c 10 tr 1 d c into each loop.

5th Row.—Same as 3rd, but 6 ch instead of 5.

6th Row.—1 d c 12 tr 1 d c into each loop.

7th Row.—8 ch, picot 5 of them, 3 ch 1 d c into the 3rd tr on 1st petal in last row; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 3rd tr on next petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal.

8th Row.—Turn with 8 ch and repeat the 4 picot loops as in last row, for 8 rows of the 4 loops.

16th Row.—Turn with 5 ch, 1 tr into 1st loop, 2 ch 1 tr into each of the others, turn.

17th Row.—10 ch 1 d c into the 2nd of the 5 ch at the turning of last row.

18th Row.—Repeat the 4 picot loops over the 10 ch and form 5 rows. Then repeat the 16th and 17th rows and form 8 rows more of the picot loops.

Make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to correspond with the joining of the first one.

When the front strip is of sufficient length, make the strip for each shoulder and the front piece, joining each to the loops in the straight strip.

Make the straightening rows at each side with 1 tr 2 ch into each loop and petal along the sides, placing the trs so that the chs may form a straight line.

Work a 2nd row of 2 ch 1 tr into each space of 1st row, then finish with 3 d c into each space.

Now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat “run and fell” seam.

Sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to fasten the Brassiere to the corset.

Beautiful Crochet on Household Linen

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN
This is full of beautiful ideas for table cloths, toilet covers, curtain tops, sideboard cloths, tea cosies, dressing table runners. Uniform with this volume in style and price, and issued by the same publishers.

A Camisole Yoke of Embroidered Filet Net and Crochet.

From this diagram the Shamrock Design can be worked in darning.

Machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke, on which the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with Tenax embroidery silk in a moss-rose shade of pink. Other lovely shades can be had in the Tenax silk, and blue, green, or mauve will answer quite as well. The shape is cut out from the net, allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges.

Using No. 70 Peri-Lusta crochet cotton, overcast the two rows of meshes left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh, then with a No. 5 crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges, 2 d c into each mesh.

Around the edge of the sleeve part, neck, and fronts of the yoke, work a row of 9 ch loops, 1 into every 4th d c.

Then into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice.

The trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch. Have the wrong side turned towards you while doing the embroidery, as all fastenings of the thread must be made on this side.

The trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram.

This kind of trimming would also be pretty for a Blouse or Jumper.

A Pretty Camisole Yoke.

Use No. 70 Peri-Lusta Crochet for this pretty yoke.

Form 5 ch into a ring, into which put 8 d c, and close the row with a s c into the 1st d c, 6 ch 1 tr into next d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each d c, 3 ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch to close a row of 8 spaces.

3rd Row.—5 d c into each sp.

4th Row.—7 ch, 1 long tr into the 1st ch (thread 3 times over the needle)—the 7 ch stands for a long tr—work off the loops of the long tr, two at a time, but retain the last on the needle; make another long tr through the same ch stitch, work off as before, then work off all the loops together. Make 7 ch, and repeat the 2 long tr through the 1st of the 7 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c into the d c over the next tr in the row below, repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr (8 loops).

5th Row.—6 ch, bring these up behind the 1st loop and fasten with a d c on centre of the loop, 10 ch 1 d c into centre of each loop.

6th Row.—12 d c over each 10 ch.

7th Row.—10 ch, 6 triple tr into the d c on centre of 1st loop below, 3 ch between the trs, * 10 ch, 1 d c over the d c on centre of next loop, 10 ch 6 triple tr with 3 ch between into the d c over centre of next loop, and repeat from *.

8th Row.—12 d c over each 10 ch, over each 3 ch put 1 d c 7 ch 1 d c.

To Join the Motifs.

Work the last row to the 3rd group of picots, form 2 of the picots as before; for the 3rd picot make only 2 ch, join to the 3rd picot on preceding motif with a d c, make 2 ch, then continue on to next picot on the motif in hands, and join the next two in the same way; 12 d c over next 10 ch, 6 ch 1 d c into the d c between the two bars on preceding motif after the joining, come back on the 6 ch with 2 ch, 1 d c over the centre of the 6 ch, 3 ch, 12 d c over next chs on the motif, then join next 3 picots as before and finish off the motif.

Twenty-three motifs are required for this yoke.

The extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the point. For the point, make the ring as in the centre of the motif, then 6 ch 1 tr into the 1st d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each of next 2 d c, turn.

2nd Row.—9 d c into 1st loop, 5 d c into each of next two, turn, and put three of the long tr loops into the d c’s over the trs in the same manner as in the motif.

4th Row.—Turn, 10 ch, 1 d c into top of long tr loop; put the 6 triple trs into the d c’s as before with the 3 ch between and the two 10 ch loops.

5th Row.—Make the picots and d c’s as in the motif, joining to the 2 lower groups of triple trs as before.

There are 23 motifs in all required, 4 for each front, 5 for the back, 4 for each shoulder and the two extensions.

To Re-sole Cashmere Stockings.

Stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn with slippers, and will be found comfortable.

Fig. 1.

Place the stocking as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the sole at the dotted line a—b; then cut off the toe at the line c—d. As the heel of the sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit, until, when laid out, it resembles fig. 2. Cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another stocking, allowing turnings as follows:

Fig. 2.

Fig. 1, the toe piece, ½-inch at c—d where it joins the stocking; fig. 2. ½-inch all round except at the lines a—b, c—b, where ¼-inch only must be allowed. If the stocking is short this can be remedied by leaving the extra length required at fig. 1, a, and fig. 2, d, in addition to the turnings previously mentioned.

Machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c—d (fig. 1), open and press the seam. Machine a—b to b—c, of the sole piece (fig. 2), open and press the seam. Machine this new sole to the stocking, open and press the seam. Fasten down all seams with small slip stitches.

It is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk, and to leave the tension of the machine rather slack.

Three Pretty Aprons.

In a Christmas parcel sent to me from Italy this year, I found two of the dearest little aprons I have ever seen—much less owned.

AN EASILY SLIPPED-ON APRON.

They were so very unusual and yet so simple of make, that I feel every girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one. To these two I have added one other, equally simple, and which costs but a few pence all told.

An Easily-Slipped-on Apron.

The first one of the three is one of the Italian ones, and is made of two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel. This particular one is made from unbleached linen, utterly free from coloured stripes or borders.

From a two yard length of towelling, cut off a strip ten inches long, which will be used for the waistband.

At one end of the long length make a three inch hem, this being the front.

Now lay this strip on the table, and measuring 39 inches from the hem, make a dot with a lead pencil, and take this dot as the centre of a circle 33 inches in circumference, which also mark out with the pencil with the help of a compass. Next cut out this circle and neatly turn in the raw edge, making a tiny hem. At the back of the apron, that is the end unhemmed, make three pleats—one box pleat in the centre and two outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat.

Cut the ten inch strip into two 5 inch ones, and join in the middle to form a long band. Fold this neatly in the middle and point one end, letting the other end be straight.

Join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine. Put a fastening in the form of a button and button-hole, or hook and eye, or patent fastener, on each end of the belt, to complete the apron.

Slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to the shoulders, and join the waistband in the front, and there you have the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine.

The decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk, separated by 5 graduated dots, the largest being in the middle. This occurs across the foot of the apron, about half an inch from the front hem, and again around the neck, but three inches from the edge of the circle. Right round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk, then a row of green French knots, and then another line of brown, making a narrow band.

In the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen, and a single red rose, minus the stalk, worked on it.

An Apron with Smocking.

The second apron is also Italian, but this one is more suitable for needlework or knitting, when one’s frock is apt to pick up pieces of thread or fluff from the wool. It is easily made from a piece of white alpaca, 22 inches long by 27 inches wide. A straight piece of material is used, and the edges are scalloped in three inch wide scallops. Down both sides and along the bottom there is embroidered in white silk, a design of leaves, with a centre flower worked in Richelieu openwork, and the effect of this on the alpaca is really very beautiful.

AN APRON WITH SMOCKING AND RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.

At the top the apron is narrowed by means of three groups of honeycomb or diamond smocking, terminating in points. A tiny pocket on the right hand side has also a little smocking at the base to correspond. This pocket is made from a 6 inch square of the material and is fastened to the apron by means of feather-stitching.

The band consists of a piece of alpaca, one yard long and about an inch wide. This band is stitched all around by machine.

A Pleated Work Apron.

A PLEATED APRON.

Last of all comes the little odd apron, but I should not be at all surprised if many of you did not prefer it to either of the others.

For this, one yard of zephyr is needed in a pretty check or plaid design, and a quarter of a yard of plain zephyr to match or tone in colour. One of the many that I have made was of white zephyr, with a plaid design of pale blue and brown. To go with this I chose a plain chocolate brown, and it really looked exceedingly pretty when finished.

From the yard of check material cut a strip three inches wide along the selvedge. Then from the remaining piece, cut a strip six inches wide on the width of the material. This will leave a piece 27 inches wide and 30 long. Most zephyrs run 30 inches wide in the single width.

Lay the material flat on the table and turn down a narrow hem, where the selvedge has been cut off, also making a hem the selvedge side as well. Then take two corners of the square and join them together to form a mitre, being very careful to match the design of the material. This forms a pocket, which is useful for holding anything. Next cut the plain material into three strips of 3 inches each, and join into one long piece. Then the 6 inch piece of checked zephyr should be cut into two pieces, each measuring 3 inches wide, and also joined into one long strip.

This leaves you with one long strip of plain, one middle-sized piece of check, and one shorter strip of check.

Take the short piece of check, which measures just a yard long, and cut off a piece of plain one inch shorter. Lay the plain material on top of the check, and tack them together with a line of thread down the centre. Fold the check material over the plain to form a narrow border either side, and stitch with machine. Leave one end of this band rough, and the other end round off, continuing the little border the same as the sides.

From the 60-inch strip of check, cut off a yard length, and the same from the plain, proceeding exactly as before, only finishing off one end quite straight. This makes the shoulder straps and band of the apron, and should leave two strips of material, one check measuring 24 inches and one plain measuring 18 inches. This latter cut into two strips one-and-a-half inches wide, and join into one strip again. Turn down either side of this strip to make a band, and sew along the top edge of the pocket, slanting each end to make a pretty finish.

When this is done, take a stitch with a needle through the centre of the pocket and the apron, and this prevents it from gaping.

Take the top of the apron next and lay in twelve half inch tucks, six going one way and six the reverse, but both facing in towards the centre of the apron. Before doing this, turn down the rough edge to make a neat heading. Sew on the two straps at either end of the top. From the remaining piece of zephyr, cut a strip one-and-a-half inches wide and the length of the top of the apron bib. Turn in each side and both ends, and stitch across the bib top to cover the straps.

To finish the apron, work a buttonhole in the rounded end of one of the strings, and sew a button on the other strap. Then take an iron and pleat the whole apron from top to bottom in half-inch pleats, using the stitched pleats of the bib as a guide.

When wearing the apron the straps should go over the shoulders and cross at the back, and come round the waist and button in the centre front.

The description of this apron may sound a little difficult, but it is really simplicity itself, and very quickly made, besides being very inexpensive.

Hardanger and Cross-Stitch

Edited by FLORA KLICKMANN
This shows some handsome Hardanger patterns, also Natural Designs in Cross-stitch for Violets, Cyclamen, Creeping Jenny, Nasturtiums, Daisies, Roses, Fern, Daffodils, Clover, Cherries, and Wild Birds. The book is uniform in style and price with “Needlework Economies,” and issued by the same publishers.

Utilizing Partly-Worn Garments.

Garments are often discarded as being of no use, just because they are worn in certain parts, whereas a little thought and careful cutting will often transform them into something quite useful. It is often possible, for instance, to make garments for the little ones by using the least worn portions of larger sized clothes. Partly worn woollen vests can be admirably re-made into babies’ pants.

To make these take the old vest and cut along the line A B, shown on the little diagram. This cuts away the most worn part of the garment. Curve out at the bottom, along the lines C D and E F.

The stitches required in the little garments are very simple. Join by seaming together the edges from D to E. Turn down a fold of about ½-inch round the curved portions, and herringbone or machine-stitch. At the top, turn down a hem of 1 inch, and stitch in the same way. Make two eyelet holes in the back of this, and insert a draw-string. A cosy little garment for baby is the result.

The original garment and what it eventually becomes. The lines and lettering show where the cutting is done.

A Use for Old Stockings.

A delightfully warm pair of bloomers for a little girl of 5 or 6 can be made from the legs of winter stockings, the feet of which are too worn for further mending. Two pairs are needed. First cut off the legs just above the darns on the heel, then cut up the back seam and lay them open. Now lay your pattern on, and you will probably find that you can just cut the four pieces, bearing in mind that the stocking will stretch, so can be cut considerably narrower than ordinary material. When the seams are machined up (once stitching is quite sufficient), and a hem, wide enough for elastic to be run in, made at the waist and bottom of the legs, you have as comfortable and cosy a garment as you could wish for. If the legs of the stockings are hardly wide enough for your pattern, corners can easily be cut from the ankle or front of the foot, and joined on to each piece. This sounds very lumpy, but the seams can be machined quite narrow (you find they don’t fray out at all), and being of wool are perfectly soft, and will not be noticed in the wearing.

Grandma was cutting out new garments from old, and her little grand-daughter was an interested spectator.

“Grandma,” remarked Mollie, “You do cut and contrive, don’t you?”

“No,” said Grandma, “first I contrive, and then I cut.”

Collars for Cold Days.

A COLLAR WITH LITTLE SHAPING.

Furs are a very expensive item at the best of times, and increasingly so just now. Yet some additional warmth at the throat and neck is very necessary in the cold weather. The difficulty is admirably settled in the collars here shown. Besides being warmer, they are a change from an ordinary scarf, and with a careful choice of colour, can give a very stylish finish to any coat.

A Collar with very little shaping.

This nicely fitting collar is worked in plain knitting with very little shaping, and is afterwards given a fur-like appearance by means of a Teazle Brush.

Materials required.

3 oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large button mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.

This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches and 12 rows to the inch.

Cast on 45 stitches.

Work 8 rows in plain knitting.

* 9th Row.—K 5, turn.

10th Row.—K 5.

11th Row.—K 5, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch (thereby preventing a hole), K 4, turn.

12th Row.—K 10.

13th Row.—K 10, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch, K 4, turn.

14th Row.—K 15.

Continue in this manner, knitting in 5 extra stitches every alternate row, until all the 45 stitches are on one row again *.

Knit without shaping until the shortest side measures 9 inches.

Finish at the wide edge, then repeat from * to * once.

Knit 9 rows without shaping, then repeat again from * to *.

Knit 9 inches without shaping. Repeat from * to * once more.

A SAILOR-SHAPED COLLAR.

Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.

The Button.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15 stitches are on the needle.

Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.

Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle Brush, until a fluffy effect is obtained.

To Save the Cost of Fur.

Cover the button-mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place on to each front.

If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.

A Pretty Sailor Collar.

This sailor shaped collar is a stylish addition to any coat, while at the same time giving the extra warmth so necessary during cold winter days. Worked in plain knitting the shaping will be found quite easy to follow.

Materials required.

3½ oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large button mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.

This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches and 12 rows to the inch.

Commencing along the lower edge at the back of the collar, cast on 126 stitches.

Knitting plain, decrease once at the beginning and end of every 12th row until 4 stitches have been decreased at each side (leaving 118 stitches in the row).

Then increase once at the beginning and end of every 14th row until two increasings have been made at each side, making 122 stitches on the needle, and 76 rows (6½ inches) from the commencement.

The stitches now require to be divided for the neck opening as follows:—K 42, cast off 38, K 42. On the last 42 stitches, continue for the first shoulder piece as follows:—On the outside edge continue increasing once every 14th row, while at the neck edge, decreasing once every 2nd row until 6 stitches are decreased, then once every following 12th row until 3 more stitches have been decreased.

Knit back to the neck edge then, continuing to decrease once (at the neck) in every 12th row, shape for the front and shoulder as follows:—Knit to within 5 stitches of the shoulder edge, turn and knit back.

Knit to within 5 stitches from the end of the previous row (i.e., 10 stitches from the shoulder edge), turn and knit back.

* Knit to within 5 stitches of the end of the last row, turn and knit back. Repeat from * until only 5 stitches remain in the last short row.

In the next row the stitches require to be all knitted into one row again, but to prevent little holes from appearing at the turnings of the short rows a loop from the row below should be lifted up and knitted together with the next stitch above the turning.

Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.

Join up the wool again at the neck where the 42 stitches were left, then work the second shoulder on these stitches to correspond with the first.

The Button.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15 stitches are on the needle.

Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.

Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle brush until a fluffy effect is obtained. Cover the button mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place on each front.

If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.

To Freshen a Last Season’s Jersey.

It is always the neck and wrist edges that show the first signs of wear on a knitted sports coat or jersey, and often a garment is discarded as done for just because these parts are shabby or out-of-date.

Have you ever thought of knitting an entirely fresh set of collar and cuffs to replace the soiled parts, or to be added to a collarless jersey or coat? The existing collar and cuffs can quite easily be cut away and the raw edges neatly buttonholed with wool before sewing on the new set.

You will probably not be successful in getting wool the exact colour of your jersey, so it will be best to use a striking contrast, such as purple on a pale blue jersey, or emerald green on a white one; or if you already have two colours in the jersey, or it is of a specially brightly-hued tint, black makes a pleasing contrast. And this year particularly contrasts of colour are very much in vogue, so that your re-modelled jersey will be quite fashionable.

Here is a practical little set that you will find quite easy to make.

The Collar.

This is of the ever-popular sailor shape that will be quite easily adapted to most garments.

“Sirdar” Sports Wool has been used for the making on No. 9 bone needles; or a 5-ply “Sirdar” Scotch Fingering would work up at a similar tension. Three ounces of wool will be sufficient for the set.

Abbreviations Used.

K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (k two st together); st = stitch or stitches.

Commence from the back edge and cast on 78 st.

K 17 rows plain.

18th Row.—K 8, P to 8 st from the end of the row, K 8.

19th Row.—Knit plain.

Repeat the 18th and 19th rows twice.

24th Row.—K 8, P 4, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * 3 times, K 6, P 4, K 8.

25th Row—K 12, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * 3 times, P 6, K 12.

Repeat the 24th and 25th rows once.

28th Row.—K 8, P 10, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * twice, K 6, P 10, K 8.

29th Row.—K 18, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * twice, P 6, K 18.