Transcriber's Notes

Two minor typographical errors were found and corrected. In the chapters on making fly-fishing rods (pages 59-71), two lists of materials that were printed as running text have been reformatted as unsigned lists for clarity. The text is unchanged.

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THE BOY MECHANIC
BOOK 2

FOUR-PASSENGER COASTING BOBSLED See Page 24

The
Boy Mechanic
BOOK 2

1000 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO

HOW TO CONSTRUCT
DEVICES FOR WINTER SPORTS, MOTION-PICTURE CAMERA, INDOOR
GAMES, REED FURNITURE, ELECTRICAL NOVELTIES,
BOATS, FISHING RODS, CAMPS AND CAMP
APPLIANCES, KITES AND GLIDERS,
PUSHMOBILES, ROLLER
COASTER, FERRIS
WHEEL
AND
HUNDREDS OF OTHER THINGS WHICH DELIGHT EVERY BOY

WITH 995 ILLUSTRATIONS

COPYRIGHTED, 1915, BY H. H. WINDSOR

CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
PUBLISHERS

After the First Station has been Selected, It is Marked by a Pile of Stones, a Stake, or, If Precise Work is to be Done, a Tack in the Top of a Stake. The Table is Then Set Up over This Station Point and Leveled So That the Surface of the Paper will Be Truly Horizontal (Inset: UNCLE JOHN'S FARM Scale 1/16" = 1' Jimmy Smith—Surveyor)

The Boy Surveyor

Plane-Table Surveying
By Harold G. McGee

[In the training of a boy for a trade or profession there is none so profitable for outdoor work as that of a surveyor. This article sets forth how to accomplish surveying and the making of simple maps with the use of commonplace tools that any boy can make.—Editor.]

Surveying and map making have always been two of the most interesting things a civil engineer has had to do. And, like George Washington, many of the men we look up to today as successes in different lines worked as surveyors in their younger days. Surveying takes one out of doors, and is apt to lead him into the unknown and unexplored byways of the earth.

Though modern surveyors often use precise and expensive instruments, creditable surveys can be made with simple and inexpensive apparatus. Of such apparatus, two of the simplest are the plane table and the camera. Since one must know the principles of plane-table surveying before he can do camera surveying, this paper will describe the plane table alone, leaving the camera for another chapter.

A plane table is simply a drawing board mounted on a tripod so that it can be set up and worked upon in the field. One kind of plane table, which is used in the army for reconnaissance, does not even have a tripod; it is simply strapped to the arm of the man who is using it.

Plane-table maps vary greatly in scale and the area they represent. Landscape artists' plans may show only single city lots, while some topographic maps cover hundreds of square miles on a single sheet. For maps of a small farm, a park, or a residence block in the city, a plane table is almost ideal, since plane-table maps are made with rather simple apparatus and do not require much actual measuring on the ground. Most objects are located without ever going to them, or even sending a rod-man to them.

Just a Few Weeks After George Washington's Sixteenth Birthday, in 1748, Lord Fairfax, Owner of a Large Estate in Virginia, Took Him into His Employ as a Surveyor

Besides the plane table itself and a sheet of paper, only a small carpenter's level, a tape to measure a few distances with, and some spikes for markers, a hard lead pencil, a ruler, and a few needles are absolutely necessary for this sort of a map.

Three Stations are Used for Setting the Plane Table in Succession to Locate the Various Objects

TABLE AT STA. A - TABLE AT STA. B - TABLE AT STA. C

To start a plane-table map, a station must first be selected from which as many as possible of the objects to be located on the finished map can be seen. Ordinarily, the objects one would locate are corners of buildings, fence corners, intersections of roads, corners of lots, banks of streams, possibly trees, and section and quarter-section corners in the country. A railroad, a lake, a mountain, or anything which forms a noticeable landmark in any particular locality, ought to be on the map. In mapping a territory which has never been surveyed before, the first surveyor may name the hills and streams.

After the first station has been selected, it is marked by a pile of stones, a stake, or, if precise work is to be done, a tack in the top of a stake. The table is then set up over this station point and leveled so that the surface of the paper will be truly horizontal. Generally, too, the board is "oriented," that is, placed so that two of its edges point north and south and two east and west. It is then clamped so that it will not move while working on it.

To begin the map, a point on the table is chosen to represent the station on the ground over which the table is set. This point is marked by sticking a fine needle into the paper, vertically. A small triangle should be drawn around the needle hole in the paper and labeled "Sta. A," so that it will not be lost in the maze of points which will soon cover the sheet. By sighting past this needle toward some object which is wanted on the map, like the corner of a house, its direction can be marked by setting another needle on the far side of the table, in line with the first and the given object. Then, if a ruler or straightedge be placed against these two needles and a fine line drawn connecting them, this line will show the exact direction of the object from Sta. A. All the other objects which are wanted on the finished map and can be seen from Sta. A are located by direction in the same way.

The first points to have their direction thus marked ought to be the next stations to be occupied. If all the objects to be located can be seen from three stations, or even two of three stations, three stations will be sufficient. The distance to one of them from Sta. A should be carefully measured and laid off to scale along its direction line on the map. Its place on the map should be marked exactly as the first station was, substituting B for A. It is wise, after every few sights at other objects, to take a sight along the line AB to make sure that the board has not turned. A good map is impossible if the board twists.

To measure the distance between stations, a 50 or 100-ft. tape, or some accurate substitute, is necessary. An ordinary piece of iron telegraph wire, 105 ft. long, is a good substitute. A point, about 2-1/2 ft. from one end, is marked with a little lump of solder. A chisel dent in this solder will mark one end of the 100-ft. section. Then, with a borrowed tape or a good rule, measure off and mark every 10 ft., just as the first point was marked, until the entire 100 ft. have been laid off. The last 10 ft. should be divided into feet. In all this measuring and marking, the wire must be stretched out taut and straight. The extra 2-1/2 ft. at each end are used for making handles. By estimating the tenths of a foot, measurements can be made with such a tape, or "chain," as an old-time surveyor might call it, just as accurately as they can be laid off on the map.

An Alidade, Consisting of Two Sights and a Straightedge, Takes the Place of the Two Needles

Two men are required for measuring, or "chaining," a head and a rear chainman. The rear chainman holds the 100-ft. end of the tape on the station point, while the head chainman takes his end forward toward the station to which they are measuring. When he has gone nearly the length of the tape, the rear chainman calls "halt." The head chainman stops and draws the tape up tight, while the rear chainman holds his division end on the starting point. Then the head chainman sticks a spike into the ground to mark the place where his division end comes, calls out "stuck," and starts on toward the object point.

Large spikes make good marking pins, especially if they have little red or white strips of cloth tied to them. Surveyors use 11 markers. One is stuck into the ground at the starting point and is carried forward by the rear chainman, who also picks up the markers at each 100-ft. point as soon as the head chainman calls "stuck." In this way, the number of markers which the rear chainman has in his hand is always the same as the number of hundreds of feet which the last set marker is from the starting point.

In measuring between two points, care must be taken to draw the tape out taut and straight, its two ends must be level with each other, and it must be exactly in line with the two points between which the measurement is being made. In measuring downhill, one end may have to be held up high, and the point on the ground where the end division would come, found by dropping a stone from the place where it is in the air and watching for the spot where the rock strikes the ground. A surer way to do this is to hold a plumb-bob string on the last division and carefully let the bob down until it touches the ground. A rod with a red or white flag on it ought to be placed at or just beyond the point to which the measurement is to be made so that the rear chainman can easily line in the head chainman. The latter, before he places his marker, looks back to the rear chainman to be told whether or not he is "on line" with the object point. If he is not, and ought to go to the rear chainman's right to get "on," the latter holds out his right arm and the head chainman moves accordingly. When he reaches the right point, the rear chainman signals "all right" by holding out both of his arms and then dropping them to his side; the marker is stuck, and both move up a hundred feet and repeat the process.

After all the points possible have been located from Sta. A, and the direction lines labeled lightly in pencil so that they can be distinguished when the board has been removed from the station, the plane table is picked up and carried to Sta. B. Here it is again set up, leveled, and oriented by making the direction of the line AB on the paper exactly the same as that of the line from Sta. A to Sta. B on the ground. This is done by placing needles at points A and B on the table and then turning the board until the two needles and Sta. A are in line. Sights are taken on the same objects which were "shot" at Sta. A, and to objects which were not visible from Sta. A. The intersection of the lines of sight toward a given object from A and from B marks the location on the paper of that object. If the two ends of a straight fence have been located in this way, a straight line joining the points will show the location of the fence on the map. By exactly similar methods, every other object is located on the paper.

In order to avoid errors, it is an excellent scheme to locate three stations near the outside edges of the area to be mapped, and locate all objects possible by sights from each of the three stations. If, instead of all three crossing each other at a point, the lines of sight from the three stations form a triangle, something is wrong. If the triangle is very small, it may be safe to use its center as the correct point; if not, the work must be repeated and checked. Locating even a few points by this method may prevent some bad blunders. The three stations ought to form as nearly as possible, an equilateral triangle; and the distances between all of them should be measured and laid out accurately on the plane table.

A Rigid Tripod is Made of Strips for Legs, Which are Fastened to a Large Top

There are two ways in which the map may be finished, inked, or traced. By drawing in the "culture," that is, the things built by man, like the houses, the fences, the roads, and the railroads, in black ink; the topography, that is, the hills and valleys, in brown; the water, in blue, and then erasing all the construction lines, a very neat map can be made. Another way is to get some "onion-skin" paper, or some tracing cloth, tack it over the penciled map, and trace the lines right through, using black India ink. This tracing can be blueprinted, just as a photographic film. A plain, neat title, describing location of map; who made it and when; the scale used; why it was made, if it was made for a special purpose, and the direction of the north point, ought to be on every map. The topographic sheets published by the United States Geological Survey are good samples to follow. They have been published for a great many places all over the country, and single copies can be obtained by sending 10 cents to the Director, United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C.

From an Original Drawing of a Survey of Mount Vernon, Made by George Washington at the Age of 14

Plane tables are almost as easily made as they are bought. If there is no old drawing board around the house, a new bread board from the ten-cent store will serve. For ordinary work, a table which is 15 or 20 in. square will do very well. The board must be mounted on a tripod so that it will be rigid while it is being worked upon and yet can be unclamped and oriented. A brass plate, with a hole in it and a nut soldered over the hole, screwed to the bottom of the board will permit the board and tripod to be bolted together in good shape. Another method, which is not nearly as good, is to drill a hole clear through the board, countersink it on top for a bolt head, and bolt the board and tripod head directly together. With the brass plate and nut, the camera tripod can be pressed into service if a nut of the proper size has been used. The camera tripod is, however, apt to be wabbly with a drawing board on top; a much more satisfactory tripod can be built as shown in the accompanying drawings. Each leg is made of two strips of wood, 3/4 by 3/8 in. and 3 ft. long. These strips are screwed together at their lower ends, gripping a spike between them which will prevent the legs from slipping on the ground. The tops of the strips are spread apart and screwed to the opposite ends of an oak or maple cleat. This cleat is, in turn, screwed to the under side of the circular tripod head.

In place of the two needles and the ruler described for marking the line of sight, most plane-table men use an alidade, which is a combination of two sights and a straightedge. A very simple alidade may be made by mounting two needles on a ruler. The straight edge of the ruler is placed against the needle which marks the station at which the plane table is set up. Then, by swinging the ruler around this needle until its two sighting needles come in line with some object, the line of sight can be drawn directly on the paper along the edge of the ruler. A surveyor in India once made an alidade out of a piece of straightedge and two sights made of native coins hammered out by a native blacksmith. Two pieces of cigar box, one with a fine vertical saw slit in it, and the other with a vertical slot and a piece of fine wire or silk thread stretched down the center, glued to a well planed, straight, flat piece of wood, make a fine alidade. A careful worker may be able to put his sights on hinges so that they will fold down when not in use.

More than anything else, map making rewards care and accuracy, and shows up slipshod workmanship. If the pencils are sharp, the lines fine, and if the work is checked often, beautiful maps can be made with very simple apparatus.

White marks on waxed surfaces may be removed by rubbing lightly with a soft rag moistened in alcohol, after which rub with raw linseed oil.

Machine for Sketching Pictures

An ordinary drawing board, with the attachments shown, provides an easy way to sketch pictures, even if one is not proficient in this line of work. It is only necessary to look through the sight and move the pencil about so that the knot in the thread follows the outline of the landscape or object being drawn.

This Machine Aids a Person in Drawing the True Outline of a Picture

The size of the machine depends on the one building it, but a fair-sized drawing board is sufficient for the beginner. A strip of wood is fastened to the board, near one edge, which has a metal piece on each end, fastened to the under side and bent up over the end to form an extension for the rod to support the moving parts. The strip of wood should be 3/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick, and the sliding arm, holding the pencil, 1/2 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. A like strip, but much shorter than the one fastened to the board, is also fitted with metal pieces in an inverted position so the projections will be downward. A 3/16-in. rod is run through holes in the metal pieces of the strips at both ends, and soldered to those on the strip fastened to the board. This will make a hinged joint, as well as one that will allow the upper strip to slide horizontally.

Centrally located on the upper strip are two more strips, fastened with screws at right angles to the former, with a space between them of 1/2 in. for the sliding center piece holding the pencil. These pieces are further braced with a wire at the back, and crosspieces are screwed both on top and under side, to make a rigid guide for the sliding pencil holder. An upright is fastened to the side of one of these pieces over the center of the upper horizontal sliding piece for a screw eye to hold the thread. Another screw eye is turned into the crosspiece just under the one on the support, so that the thread will run perpendicularly between them. Two more screw eyes are fastened, one into the upper surface of the rear crosspiece, and the other in the end of the pencil holder, near the pencil. By connecting these screw eyes, as shown, with a thread, having a rubber band fastened in the rear end and a knot tied in it near the screw eye in the upper end of the vertical stick, a means for following the outlines of the picture is provided.

A vertical stick is fastened to the front edge of the board by means of a notch and wedge. In the upper end of this stick a very small hole is bored for a sight, similar to a peep sight on a rifle.

To use the machine, set the board on a table, or tripod, and level it up in front of the object to be drawn. Look through the sight at the front of the board and move the pencil about to keep the knot of the thread on the outlines of the picture to be drawn.—Contributed by Wm. C. Coppess, Union City, Ind.

A walnut filler is made of 3 lb. burnt Turkey umber, 1 lb. of burnt Italian sienna, both ground in oil, then mixed to a paste with 1 qt. of turpentine and 1 pt. of japan drier.

THE BOY SURVEYOR

Camera Surveying
By Harold G. McGee

[This article explains the preparation of the camera for taking the pictures at each of the three stations, after which the plates are developed, printed and kept until a convenient time may be had for plotting the ground. The succeeding article will give in detail the making of the map from the photographs.—Editor.]

Camera surveying is simply plane-table surveying in which the landscape has been photographically picked up and carried indoors. It has the enormous advantage that one can obtain a record of the utmost fidelity in a small fraction of the time taken to do the field work of even a sketchy plane-table survey, and that plotting can be done in the comfort and with the conveniences of a drafting room. When the hours one can work are short or the periods of clear, dry weather are few and far between, a camera is an ideal surveying instrument. It sees and records with the click of the shutter.

Surveying by camera was proposed early in the infant days of photography; but not until the eighties were photographic surveys commenced in earnest. With the extensive surveys of the Canadian Rockies by the Canadian government within the past decade and the topographic surveys of the Alps, the camera has very recently indeed achieved the dignity of being known as a "sure-enough" surveying instrument. Even today, few surveyors have ever used photography for making surveys, even though for mountain topography or any survey which includes a large number of distinctive, inaccessible landmarks, the camera asks no odds of either the plane table or the stadia transit.

A camera survey taken of the summer cottage or the camping ground will be a source of great delight while it is being plotted up of winter evenings. There is something weird in watching each tent and dock slip into its place with naught but a pair of dividers and a few pictures to do the trick. And when the map is done, there are all the data to tell just where a tennis court can go or a walk ought to be built.

In making surveys, a plate camera will do more accurate work than will a film camera; and a fixed focus is a big help in plotting. In spite of the special and expensive instruments which have been designed solely for surveying work, a little ingenuity on the part of the owner of most any kind of a camera, be it big or little, film or plate, box or folding, will do wonders toward producing good results.

A T-Shaped Level with Adjusting Nuts is Located on the Camera Box, or on the Bed of the Folding Camera

To be used for surveying, a camera must be fitted with a spirit level and some arrangement for cross hairs. A T-shaped level on the bed or the box, carefully adjusted, will show when the plate is vertical and when the perpendicular line from the center of the plate to the center of the lens is horizontal. Actual cross hairs in the camera are not as good as four tiny points of V's, one projecting from the middle of each side, top, and bottom of the camera box, just in front of the plate holder. How the level is to be adjusted so that a line between the upper and lower points will be truly vertical, and one through the die-side points truly horizontal and on a level with the center of the lens when the bubbles are in the center of the spirit level, will be described later.

To Prepare a Camera for Surveying, It is Necessary to Arrange That the Axial Center Line through Lens to the Plate Shall be Level

(Inset: The Camera is Set Up, Complete with Thread or Pencil-Line Cross Hairs and Level, Then Focused on a Stake so That Its Top will Just Come to the Horizontal Cross Hair at the Center of the Plate When the Level Tube Parallel with the Center Line of Lens Reads Level)

Camera Preparation

To prepare a camera for surveying, it is necessary to arrange that the axial center line through the lens to the plate shall be level, and that the location of the horizontal and vertical center lines shall be indicated on the plate. A spirit level is the best solution of the first problem, and indicated center points of the second.

The spirit level preferably may be of the T-form, with two level tubes, or of the "universal" circular form, with which some hand cameras are equipped. However, ordinary hand-camera levels are generally too rough and difficult of adjustment to insure accurate work. On a view camera, the level may be conveniently located on the bed which carries the lens board. If it is screwed to the under side of the arms it will be convenient for use and out of the way. The bed is likewise a good location for the level on a folding hand camera, while the top of the box is about the only possible location with a box-type instrument.

The cross hairs or center-line indicators should be placed on the back of the camera, just in front of the plate. If indicators are used, fine-thread cross hairs or pencil lines drawn on the ground glass must be used temporarily for making adjustments. Generally, the two cross hairs will divide the plate vertically and horizontally into four equal parts and the hairs or indicators will join the center point of the sides and top and bottom of the opening immediately in front of the plate. But it is essential that the cross hairs have their intersection in a line perpendicular to the plate and passing through the center of the lens. Thus in a camera in which the lens is not placed in the center of the plate, or in which the rising and sliding front has placed the lens off center, either or both of the cross hairs may be off center with regard to the plate.

The Ordinary Round Level may be Used, but It Is Not so Good as the T-Level

After the cross-hair indicators and the level have been attached to the camera, adjustments are necessary. Surveyors distinguish between permanent and temporary adjustments, permanent adjustments being those for which the instrument maker is responsible, and temporary adjustments being those which can be and are made in the field. The principal permanent or maker's adjustments of the surveying camera are those which insure the center line through the lens, or axial center line, or line of collimation, being perpendicular to the plate, the intersection of the cross hairs being on this line, and that the cross hairs themselves are mutually perpendicular. Temporary or field adjustments must be so made that one tube of the spirit level shall be parallel with the axial center line through the lens and the other parallel with the horizontal cross hair.

The Cross Hairs or Center-Line Indicators should be Placed on the Back of the Camera

The first field adjustment is made in the following manner. The camera is set up, complete with thread or pencil-line cross hairs and level, and focused on a stake whose top shall just come to the horizontal cross hair at the center of the plate, when the level tube parallel with the center line of the lens reads level. This stake may be driven to the required elevation or a rod may be held on it and the point where, in the image on the ground glass, it is intersected by the cross hair marked with pencil on the rod as it is held vertically on the stake. The distance to this stake is measured from the camera and another similar stake set at the same elevation by the same method, but in an opposite direction and at the same distance from the camera. The two stakes or the mark on the vertical rod which is held on these stakes in turn will be level with each other, though they may not be level with the camera. The camera is then moved to a point very much closer to one stake than to the other and again leveled. The vertical distance from one stake-top or mark on the rod is measured and the camera then focused on the second stake. If the level is actually in adjustment, the distance from the second stake top or mark will be exactly the same as it was on the first. If not, the difference, or "error," is found between the two vertical distances from the cross hair to the two stake tops. Half this error is corrected by raising or lowering one end of the level tube by means of the threaded nuts which are placed on it for the purpose. The whole process is then repeated until the vertical distances from the horizontal cross hair at the center to the two level stakes, one close to and one distant from the camera, are identical. The axial center line of the lens, or the line of collimation, is then in adjustment with the level. All that remains is to make the horizontal cross hair parallel with the cross level.

The Maker's Adjustments Should Insure the Line of Collimation being Perpendicular to the Plate

This is done by using one marked stake. The camera is leveled as far as the "fore-and-aft" level is concerned and the horizontal cross-hair point at the center marked on the stake. The camera is then swung round until the stake just shows on one edge of the ground glass, the fore-and-aft or longitudinal level being checked to make sure its bubble is still in the center. Then the bubble in the cross or transverse level tube is brought to the center by means of the threaded adjusting nuts, and the camera is thrown hard over so that the stake appears along the opposite edge of the plate. This time, the bubble of the longitudinal level being kept in the center, half the error introduced by turning from one edge to the other is corrected. All of the adjustments are then rechecked, and if they are found correct the instrument is ready for use. If a circular level be used, the method of adjustment is exactly the same, the swing of the bubble along the axis of the camera and transverse to it being used to determine the longitudinal and transverse adjustments. Slips of paper may be used for lifting one side in place of the adjustment nuts of the T-level.

A leveling head or ball-and-socket joint on the top of the tripod will be found of material aid in leveling the instrument.

No great mechanical genius is necessary to prepare a camera for or to make a successful camera survey. But if a boy have not patience and an infinite desire for accuracy, camera surveying, or indeed any sort of surveying, will be a source of neither pleasure, satisfaction, nor profit.

To Make Transparent Paper

Transparent paper of parchmentlike appearance and strength, which can be dyed with almost all kinds of aniline dyes and assumes much more brilliant hues than ordinary colored glass, can be made in the following manner: Procure a white paper, made of cotton or linen rags, and put it to soak in a saturated solution of camphor in alcohol. When dry, the paper so treated can be cut up into any forms suitable for parts of lamp shades, etc.

Toasting Bread over an Open Fire

Having experienced some difficulty in obtaining good toast over a gas or open fire I tried the following plan with good results: An old tin pan was placed over the flame and the ordinary wire bread toaster clasping the slice of bread was held about 1/2 in. from the pan. In a few minutes the toast was crisp and ready to serve.—Contributed by Katy Doherty, New York City.

Adjustable Stilts

The beginner with stilts always selects short sticks so that he will not be very far from the ground, but as he becomes more experienced, the longer the sticks the better. Then, too, the small boy and the large boy require different lengths of sticks. The device shown makes a pair of sticks universal for use of beginners or a boy of any age or height.

Stilts Having Stirrups That can be Set at Any Desired Height

To make the stilts, procure two long sticks of even length, and smooth up the edges; then begin at a point 1 ft. from one end and bore 12 holes, 3/8 in. in diameter and 2 in. apart from center to center. If there is no diestock at hand, have a blacksmith, or mechanic, make a thread on both ends of a 3/8-in. rod, 12 in. long. Bend the rod in the shape shown, so that the two threaded ends will be just 2 in. apart from center to center. The thread on the straight horizontal end should be so long that a nut can be placed on both sides of the stick. A piece of a garden hose or small rubber hose, slipped on the rod, will keep the shoe sole from slipping. The steps can be set in any two adjacent holes to give the desired height.—Contributed by Walter Veene, San Diego, Cal.

Grape Arbor Built of Poles

In building outdoor structures, such as grape arbors, pergolas, or arches, it is not necessary to use sawed lumber, as they can be built as substantial, and frequently more artistic and cheap, of poles. These are easily obtained, especially in the country or in the smaller cities where there usually are many trees and gardens.

Arbor Made of Poles Which are Supported by One Row of Uprights (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)

The illustrated grape arbor consists of but one row of uprights. Across the top of each is placed a horizontal support for the roof poles, as shown in Fig. 1, which is carried near its outer end by an inclined brace. The brace should be connected at each end with a toe joint, as shown in Fig. 2. The upper end of the upright is beveled off on both sides, to form a double-splayed joint with the crosspiece. In order to securely bind the roof of the arbor, the long poles, or roof beams, should be notched near each end to fit over the supports. Similar notches in the poles forming the side of the arbor are to fit the uprights, thereby binding them together and preventing toppling over. Each set of long poles connecting two uprights should have the end notches the same distance apart, one pole being used as a gauge. All the joints and notches may be cut with a sharp hatchet.

In setting the arbor, the uprights should first be assembled complete with braces and roof supports, and placed in the ground a distance apart corresponding to that of the notches on the long poles. The uprights being set, the long poles are placed and fastened with nails.—Contributed by W. E. Crane, Cleveland, Ohio.

Forcing Fruit Blossoms for Decorations

Twigs trimmed from the fruit trees rather late in the season had quite large buds on them, and we experimented with them in this way: A large box was filled with wet sand, and the twigs were stuck in it and the box set in the warmest corner of the yard. The buds soon swelled and burst into bloom. We then arranged a smaller box of sand and put the blooming twigs into it, and took it into the house where they remained fresh for several days.—Contributed by A. Louise Culver, Oakland, Cal.

Corner Cleaner Attached to a Scrubbing Brush

Dirt will accumulate and harden in the corners of a floor and the baseboard just because the end of the scrubbing brush will not enter them. The water gets in with the dirt and leaves a hard crust. This may be easily cleaned out if a metal point is attached to the end of the brush handle, as shown in the illustration. It is used as a scraper to break up the crust and clean it out where the bristles will not enter.—Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York City.

The Boy Surveyor

Plotting a Camera Survey
By Harold G. McGee

[The camera records pictures that can be taken in camp or on a vacation trip and kept until more leisure may be had in winter for plotting the ground.—Editor.]

A previously measured base triangle with "stations" at each corner is necessary for making a camera survey, just as it is for the plane-table survey. It is preferable to have each of the three sides measured independently, though if one side has been accurately chained, the other two may be less satisfactorily determined by the use of the plane table. If the camera has a fixed focus, it is possible to make an entire survey from the two ends of a single base line; but this method has no check and should be used only when and where the triangle method is impossible. With an adjustable focus, it will rarely give good results.

Two Fine Hair Lines must be Scratched on Each Plate Before It is Used to Plot From, or to Make Pictures from Which the Plotting is Done

Once the triangle has been laid out, the fieldwork is very simple. The camera is set up at one station, carefully leveled, and then a series of pictures is taken, each single plate overlapping the last so as to form a panorama of the area to be mapped. The focus of the lens must not be changed during a series, and plotting is facilitated by keeping the focus constant during all the exposures which make up a survey. To secure good depth of focus, a small stop is generally used, since it is necessary to use a tripod to keep the camera level. If contours are to be drawn, the height of the lens above the ground at the station should be measured and recorded. After a series has been taken at each station, the fieldwork is complete. It is an excellent plan to keep a record of the plate numbers, and the order in which and the station from which the exposures were made, so that the 10 or 12 plates which a small survey will comprise may not get hopelessly mixed up. If the camera is turned each time to the right, clockwise, and the plates are numbered A-1, A-2, B-4, etc., indicating by A-1, for example, the leftmost plate taken at Sta. A; by A-2, the plate just to the right of A-1, just as II is to the right of I on the clock dial, and by B-4, the fourth to the right taken at Sta. B, there ought to be no difficulty in identifying the plates after the exact details of the ground are forgotten.

Plot of the Ground as It Should Appear After Locating the Objects as They are Shown on the Pictures from Each Point of the Triangle

While the pictures are being taken, "flags" of white wood or with white-cloth streamers tied to them must be stuck in the ground or held at the other stations in order that their exact location can be readily and certainly found on the plates. A few distinctive stakes, some with one and some with two or three strips of cloth tied to them, placed at important points on the ground will help immensely in the location of knolls and shore lines.

In plotting a camera survey, either the original plates, the prints, or enlargements may be used. The plates are the most accurate if a corrected lens has been used; and the enlargements made back through the lens will be best if the images on the plates are distorted. In any case, two fine hair lines must be scratched on each plate before it is used to plot from, or to make the prints from which the plotting is to be done. One of these lines should connect the points at the top and bottom of the plate, and the other, the points at the sides. The vertical line divides the objects which were on the right of the center of the camera from those that were on the left, and the horizontal line connecting the points on the sides separates the objects that were above the camera from those that were below.

If the survey has been made with a lens that does not cover the plate fully or that has considerable uncorrected aberration, causing distorted shapes near the edges and corners of the picture, results can be materially improved by plotting from enlargements. In making the enlargements, the back of the camera should be removed and the light should be allowed to pass through the plate and the lens in the reverse order and direction of that in which it passed when the negative was made. In this way, the errors which were made by the lens originally will be straightened out, and the resulting enlargements will be free from distortion. To make successful enlargements for surveying work, the easel on which the bromide paper is tacked must be square with the camera, and the paper itself should be flat and smooth. It is just as necessary to keep the easel at a constant distance from the camera during the enlarging as it was to keep the same focus while the original negatives were being made.

In Plotting a Camera Survey the Base Triangle is First Carefully Laid Out on the Paper to Such a Scale That the Map will be of Desirable Size

In plotting a camera survey the base triangle is first carefully laid out on the paper to such a scale that the map will be of a desirable size. With the apex of the triangle representing Sta. A, say, as a center, a circle is drawn with a radius as nearly equal as possible to the distance between the optical center of the lens and the plate when the picture was taken. Ordinarily this will be the focal length of the lens; but if the camera was not focused most sharply on an object a great distance off, the radius may be greater. This radius is called the "mapping constant." When an approximate distance for the mapping constant has been determined by measurements on the camera or by knowing the focal length of the lens, the circle, or rather the arc, FG between the two lines to stations B and C, is drawn. The plates taken at Sta. A, and ranged around this circle on the outside and just touching it, will show the landscape exactly as seen from A.

In the accompanying diagram showing the method of determining the mapping constant and of locating the traces of the plates, the letters F, G, H, J, P, R and S designate points referring to the true mapping constant, and the construction necessary to locate the traces of the plates. The primed letters F', F'', G', G'', etc., are used to show similar points where the trial mapping constant is either too long or too short. The following description refers equally to the construction necessary with true or trial-mapping constants.

Next, a line FH is drawn perpendicular to the line AB of the triangle at the point F where the arc intersects it. On this line is laid off, in the proper direction, a distance equal to the distance on the plate or print from Sta. B to the center vertical line. From this point is drawn a light line, HJ, toward the center of the arc. Where this line crosses the arc, at J, a tangent, KJM, is drawn, which will show the location of the plate A-1 on the drawing. This line is called the trace of the plate. An object which appears both on plate A-1 and A-2 is next picked out and its location on the trace of plate A-1 determined by measuring the distance JN equal to the distance on the plate from the image of the object to the center vertical line. A light line, NO, joining this last-found point with Sta. A, is then drawn. Where this last line crosses the arc, at O, a tangent, OP, to the arc is drawn, and the trace of the plate A-2 is found with the aid of the point which appears on both plates just as plate A-1 was located from the picture of Sta. B. The traces of plates A-3 and A-4 are found in exactly the same way as was that of A-2. If the radius of the arc has been estimated correctly, Sta. C will be found to be exactly on the point where the trace of the plate showing the station crosses the line AC on the paper. If it does not fall on the line AC, which is generally the case, everything must be erased except the original triangle. First, however, a radial line S'G', or S''G'', is drawn from the location of Sta. C on the trace of the plate A-2, 3 or 4, as the case may be, to the arc, and the point of intersection of this line and the arc, G' or G'', is preserved. If this point, G' or G'', is outside the base triangle, the next trial arc should be drawn with a larger mapping constant as a radius, or vice versa. If the second mapping constant is off, find again the point of intersection of the radial line through the new location of Sta. C on the newly located trace of the last plate and the new arc. Join this point and the one found previously, in the same manner, with a straight line, G'G''. The point G where this last drawn line intersects the line AC of the base triangle, will be the point through which the arc, with the correct mapping constant as radius, ought to pass, provided the first two approximations were not too far in error. This third trial ought to make the location of the traces of the plates exactly correct. If, however, the focus of the camera was changed between exposures at one station, the traces of the plates will not all be at an equal distance from the station point, and their location will be an almost impossible task. The traces of the plates taken at stations B and C are found in exactly the same manner as were those for Sta. A. After the traces have all been located, it is a good plan to ink them in lightly and erase the pencil construction lines which would otherwise form an impenetrable maze. The traces located, the difficult and tiresome part of the plotting is over; the landscape, brought indoors photographically, is located as with the plane table; all that remains to be done is to take the sights and find the points on the paper which show where the objects were on the ground.

From Each Station the Mapping Constant is Laid Out by the Focal Distance of the Camera or Distance of the Plate from the Lens, and the Location of Traces of the Plates Determined

This taking the sights is a simple matter. With a pair of dividers, the distance from a given object from the center line of the plate is measured. This distance is laid off on the proper side of the point marking the center line of the trace of the same plate; a radial line is drawn through the trace at the given distance from the center-line point and the station at which the given plate is taken; this is one line of sight to the object. The same object is located from another station in the same way; as on the plane table, the intersection of the two lines to the same object marks the location of the point which represents the object on the map.

Obtaining elevations for the drawing of contours is a slightly longer process. Contours are lines joining points of equal elevation; they represent successive shore lines, if the area mapped were inundated and the water should rise slowly foot by foot. If the contours are close together, the ground represented has a steep slope, and vice versa. If, on a map, a number of points are of known elevation, it is simply a question of judgment and practice to tell where contour lines go.

Before contours can be drawn the elevations of a considerable number of points must be known. If the elevation of any one of them is known and the difference between that one and any other can be found, determining the elevation of the second point is simply a problem in addition or subtraction. If it be desired to find, for instance, the difference in elevation between Sta. C and the corner of the fence, as shown in the sketch, two solutions are possible, as follows:

First: Perpendicular to the line of sight from Sta. C to the fence corner, two lines are drawn, one at the intersection of the trace of the plate by the line of sight, and one at the point on the paper which shows the location of the fence corner. On the first of these two lines is laid off the distance Y', equal to the distance of the ground at the fence post above or below the horizontal center line on the plate. Through this point, on the first perpendicular on the line of sight, is drawn a line through the Sta. C and extended to an intersection with the second drawn perpendicular. The distance from the corner of the fence, on the paper, to this intersection is the distance Y, the difference in elevation from the center of the camera at Sta. C to the ground at the fence post. This solution is longer and less desirable than the second.

Second: In place of perpendicular lines to the line of sight, the trace of the plate, and a line, through the point representing the object, parallel with the trace, may be used.

A datum plane, or reference surface, from which all elevations are measured up to the ground surface must be assumed. The United States Geological Survey uses mean, or average, sea level for the datum in all its topographic sheets. Generally, unless there is a United States Geological Survey "bench mark," a monument of carefully determined elevation referred to sea level, within the limits of the survey, it is better to assume the elevation of some point, as Sta. C, at 100 ft., or greater if necessary to place the datum plane below the ground level at all points within the area to be mapped. Other elevations are figured from the assumed elevation of Sta. C. Allowance must be made for the height of the center of the camera above the ground at Sta. C in computing elevations above Sta. C. All elevations determined for the purpose of drawing contours are ground elevations and not the elevation of the top of objects located on the map. The topographic sheets of the Geological Survey are good examples to follow, in drawing contours. For many purposes, contours are not essential, and the refinements necessary for their drawing may be omitted.

How to Build a Skiff

The following is a description of an easily constructed 12-ft. skiff, suitable for rowing and paddling. This is the type used by many duck hunters, as it may be easily pushed through marshes. It is constructed of 3/4-in. dressed pine, or cypress.

The Skiff is Especially Constructed for Use in Shallow Water and Marshes by Duck Hunters, but with the Addition of a Keel It Makes a Good Craft for Almost Any Water as a Rowboat (Fig. 1)

(Fig. 2)

The sides consist of planks, 14 in. wide, but 12-in. planks may be used, the length being 12 ft. 4 in. Two stem pieces are constructed as shown in Fig. 1, and the plank ends are fastened to them with screws. Nail a crosspiece on the plank edges in the exact center, so as to space the planks 34 in. apart, as shown in Fig. 2; then turn it over and nail another crosspiece in the center of the planks for width, and make the spacing of the other edges 40 in. Plane the lower edges so that, in placing a board across them, the surfaces will be level. The floor boards are 6 in. wide and fastened on crosswise, being careful to apply plenty of red lead between all joints and using galvanized nails, 2 in. long.

(Fig. 3)

A deck, 18 in. long, is fastened on each end, as shown in Fig. 3. It is made of strips fastened to a crosspiece. The seats, or thwarts, consist of 10-in. boards, and are placed on short strips fastened to the side planks about 5 in. from the bottom. The oarlocks are held in a wedge-shaped piece of wood, having a piece of gas pipe in them for a bushing, the whole being fastened at the upper edge of the side planks with screws, as shown in Fig. 4. The location of these must be determined by the builder.

(Fig. 4)

Some calking may be required between the bottom, or floor, boards, if they are not nailed tightly against one another. The calking material may be loosely woven cotton cord, which is well forced into the seams. The first coat of paint should be of red lead mixed with raw linseed oil, and when dry any color may be applied for the second coat.

While, for use in shallow water, these boats are not built with a keel, one can be attached to prevent the boat from "sliding off" in a side wind or when turning around. When one is attached, it should be 3/4 in. thick, 3 in. wide, and about 8 ft. long.—Contributed by B. Francis Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

An aniline color soluble in alcohol, by adding a little carbolic acid, will hold fast on celluloid.

Double-Swing Gate with Common Hinge

The Post and Gate are Cut Away Back of the Hinge to Allow the Latter to Swing Back

Ordinary hinges can be easily bent and so placed on posts that a gate can be swung in either direction. As shown in the illustration, hinges can be made to fit either round or square posts. The gate half of the hinge is fastened in the usual way. The post half is bent and so placed that the hinge pin will approximately be on a line between the centers of the posts. The gate and post should be beveled off to permit a full-open gateway.—Contributed by R. R. Schmitz, Birmingham, Ala.

Testing Out Induction Coils

While winding an induction coil, I found it necessary to test the sections for continuity. Having no galvanometer, I connected a battery and low-resistance telephone receiver in series with the section and battery. The battery and telephone receiver may also be used for testing out the secondary of an induction coil, to determine if it is burnt out.—Contributed by John M. Wells, Moosomin, Can.

How to Make a Surveyor's Transit
By Bennett Blacklidge

Detail of Parts for the Construction of a Transit Which can be Used, with Fairly Accurate Results, in Doing Amateur Surveying for Railroad Work, Town Sites and the Laying Out of Maps

A boy who likes to do the things that "grown ups" do can derive considerable pleasure from the making of a transit, which will enable him to start in surveying railroads, laying off town sites, and doing lots of kindred work. It is necessary to have a compass, and one, 1-3/4 in. in diameter, can be purchased at a reasonable price. A hole is bored with an expansive bit into a board, 7/8 in. in thickness, just deep enough to admit the compass snugly, then a circle, A, 4-1/2 in. in diameter, is drawn, having the same center as the compass hole, and the disk is cut out with a compass or scroll saw. A ring, B, is cut in the same manner from the same material, its inside diameter being such that the ring just fits around the disk A, and the outside diameter, 6-3/4 in. Another block, 5-1/2 in. in diameter, is glued to the bottom of the small disk A. This will appear as shown at C. A small hole is bored in the center of the bottom block on the under side to receive the threaded end of the screw on a camera tripod. By careful adjustment the threads in the wood will hold the transit firmly. A plumb bob must be attached exactly in the center of the tripod head. This can be easily done if the head is wood, but in case the top is of metal, the line can be attached to the screw with a double loop, as shown at D, so that the bob will hang centrally. Two standards are made as shown at E, each about 5 in. high, and fastened to the ring B in the positions shown in the drawing of the complete instrument. An arc of a circle is marked on one of the standards, as shown, to designate angles, the markings being laid out with a bevel protractor. The pointer is a hand from an old alarm clock.

The telescope arrangement consists of a piece of pasteboard tubing, about 1-1/4 in. in diameter, one end being covered with a piece of black paper with a pinhole in the exact center, and the other equipped with "cross hairs." Four small notches are cut in the latter end of the tube, exactly quartering it, and two silk threads as fine as can be obtained, are stretched across in these notches. The tube is fastened to a block of wood, 5 in. wide and 7 in. long, with small tacks and two pieces of fine copper wire. This block is pinioned between the standards with two nails. The hand is secured to the nail in such a position that it will point straight down when the tube is level.

The instrument is adjusted in the following manner: It is set up where a lone tree can be seen, about one mile distant, and the center of the cross hairs is carefully set on the tree. Then a very fine wire is stretched across the compass, as shown at F, and while keeping it directly over the center of the compass it is also placed on a direct line pointing to the tree. Very small brass nails, driven in at G and H, serve to fasten it in the position thus found. When this adjustment has been made the telescope can be turned to sight any object, after first placing the instrument so that the needle points to the N on the dial, and a glance at the wire will show the exact direction in which the object is located.

The instrument is then taken to a level stretch of road and set up, and a stick is placed on end and marked at the height of the telescope. The stick is taken along the road about 200 yd., the telescope sighted on it, and the hand set. This makes the instrument level enough for all practical purposes. The plumb bob is then dropped, a distance of 20 ft. measured from it on the road, and a mark made. The telescope is sighted on this mark, and a mark is made on the standard at the point of the arc, to which the hand points. Another 20 ft. is measured, or 40 ft. from the bob, and another mark made. The telescope is sighted on it, and the location of the hand again marked. This works well up to about 300 ft., then the marks begin to come very close together. This method is used for laying out town sites. The instrument is set up directly over a stake from which to work, and the telescope is turned down until the 20-ft. mark is indicated, when the operator looks through the telescope and tells his helper where to set the stake. Then another is driven at the next point, and so on, until the limit of the instrument is reached.

When doing railroad surveying several start out together, one with an ax to cut away brush; one to carry pegs; two to measure, or chain, the distance between stakes, and one to do the sighting. In this manner a line can be run that comes very near being perfectly straight for three miles.

A concrete example of how the transit was used to lay out a map of a ranch will now be given. The start was made on an east and west fence. The instrument was set 5 ft. from the fence at one point, and at the other end of the fence the stick was set at a point 5 ft. from the fence. When the stick was sighted, the wire cut the E and W on the compass, thus showing that the fence was set on a line, due east and west. The distance was measured from the fence to the house, which was 1/4 mile, and this was noted in a book. This operation was repeated on the rear, and the distance found to be 780 ft. while the compass showed the direction to be 4 deg. west of south. The next line ran 427 ft. and 1 deg. east of south. This was kept up all the way around. After these notes had been obtained, it was an easy matter to take a piece of plain paper and strike a line representing north and south and lay off the directions. A bevel protractor was used to find the degrees. The transit was set on the posts of the corrals and this saved the measuring out from the inclosure. The creek was surveyed in the same manner. So many feet south-west, so many feet west, so many feet 5 deg. south of west, and so on, until its length was run.

The transit can also be used for finding distances without measuring. A line from A to B is sighted, and F represents a point 1/2 mile distant, the line from F to G being 100 ft. A line is now sighted from A, through G to C. A person standing at D is directed to move toward the point E and he is stopped as soon as sighted in the telescope. He then measures the distance from D to E. Suppose this distance is 250 ft. As each 100 ft. means 1/2 mile, and the 50 ft., 1/4 mile, the point E is 1-1/4 miles from the transit. This method can be used quite extensively and distances obtained are fairly accurate.

A small whisk broom makes a handy cleaner to brush the caked grease and lint from pulleys and gear wheels where waste and rags are useless.

To Enlarge or Reduce Plots

Sometimes it is necessary to enlarge or reduce a plot to a different scale. This can be easily and quickly accomplished without resorting to the slow process of protracting the angles and scaling the individual lines.

Enlarging and Reducing Plots by Radial Lines from a Common Point Located Properly

Take any point, P, and from it draw light pencil lines through each of the corners of the plot. On any one of these lines, as AP, lay off with dividers AC equal to CP. Place a triangle on the line AB and with a straightedge, or another triangle, laid on the line AP, slide the former to the point C, then draw line CD parallel with AB until it intersects the radial line PB. In the same manner draw line DE parallel with BF, and so on, all about the plot. A test of accuracy will be in striking the point C with the last line. If the original plot has a scale of 40 ft. to the inch the reduced plot would be 80 ft. to the inch. If it is required to enlarge the plot to 20 ft. to the inch, make AG equal to AP, and proceed as in the first case, using G as the starting point.

The location of the point P is arbitrary and may be outside of the boundary of the plot or figure to be enlarged or reduced, but should be so located, if possible, that the radial line to any corner does not parallel either of the plot lines to that corner. If the point cannot be so located for all the lines, it may be necessary to scale the lines. A little practice in picking out the best location for the point will give gratifying results.—Contributed by Junius D. McCabe, Pittsburgh, Pa.

A Lathe Bench

While working at a bench, or foot-power lathe, it is quite convenient to have some sort of a seat to sit on while at work, or between operations. In making such a seat, I used a board, 27 in. long and 12 in. wide, for the top, and two boards, 19 in. long and 12 in. wide, for the supports. These boards were 3/4 in. thick. The supports were squared at the ends and securely fastened to the top with nails, their positions being 3 in. in from the ends of the top board. These were well braced, as shown, and a cross board was placed between them, near the lower ends.

The Bench Provides a Seat for the Worker in Doing Operations on a Small Foot Lathe

The projecting ends of the top were cut out, and a box, 5 in. deep, constructed against the supports. A covering was made to fit in each of the openings in the top board and hinged to the outer edge of the box. The boxes made a convenient place for the tools used in the turning work.—Contributed by Harold R. Harvey, Buhl, Idaho.

Cleaning and Polishing Shoes

In using the polishes now on the market for tan shoes, I found that the leather cracked in an unreasonably short time. The following was suggested and tried out with good results. Wash the shoes with castile soap and water by applying the mixture with a dauber. Work up a little lather and then rub dry with a cloth, without rinsing. The leather will be cleaned without becoming dark, and it will not crack. A higher polish may be obtained by using some paste polish in the usual manner.—Contributed by George Bliss, Washington, D. C.

Shaving Cabinet Mounted on an Adjustable Pedestal

The illustration represents a shaving cabinet mounted on an adjustable pedestal, whose style and size are such that it may easily be moved about or set away without requiring much room. The material required for its construction is as follows:

The Mirror and Cabinet are Mounted on a Pedestal That can be Moved as Desired

The sidepieces of the cabinet are extended at one corner, thereby forming the supports for the mirror. The door fits in between the sides and may be attached either by hinges or two wood screws, one on each side, holes being bored in the sides forming a loose fit for the screw so they can freely turn with the door. The pedestal consists of a 4-in. square box resting on the base block, and secured in place by means of molding strips. The sliding support for the cabinet consists of a 2-in. square piece secured to the bottom of the cabinet by means of molding, and provided with a slot so the support can freely slide over the clamp bolt, which fastens it in place by clamping it against the pedestal. If it is desired to conceal the head of the bolt, a recess should be made in the pedestal frame for it, as shown, so the support will freely slide over it. Before assembling the pedestal it will be necessary to drill a hole in the front side in line with the recess of the back side, and insert the bolt. If this precaution is not taken, it will not be possible to insert the bolt, unless a hole be made for the head either through the back side or front side.—Contributed by D. Toppan, Watervliet, N. Y.

Four-Passenger Coasting Bobsled
By R. H. Allen

Coasting Is One of the Best Sports a Boy Enjoys during Winter, and a Sled of Luxury Is Something to Be Proud of among Others on a Hill or Toboggan Slide

Coaster bobs usually have about the same form of construction, and only slight changes from the ordinary are made to satisfy the builder. The one shown has some distinctive features which make it a sled of luxury, and the builder will pride himself in the making. A list of the materials required is given on the opposite page. Any wood may be used for the sled, except for the runners, which should be made of ash.

Shape the runners all alike by cutting one out and using it as a pattern to make the others. After cutting them to the proper shape, a groove is formed on the under edge to admit the curve of a 5/8-in. round iron rod about 1/4 in. deep. The iron rods are then shaped to fit over the runner in the groove and extend up the back part of the runner and over the top at the front end. The extensions should be flattened so that two holes can be drilled in them for two wood screws at each end. If the builder does not have the necessary equipment for flattening these ends, a local blacksmith can do it at a nominal price. After the irons are fitted, they are fastened in place.

The top edges of the runners are notched for the crosspieces so that the top surfaces of these pieces will come flush with the upper edges of the runners. The location of these pieces is not essential, but should be near the ends of the runners, and the notches of each pair of runners should coincide. When the notches are cut, fit in the pieces snugly, and fasten them with long, slim wood screws. Small metal braces are then fastened to the runners and crosspiece on the inside, to stiffen the joint.

Details Showing the Method of Rear-Sled Oscillation, the Bracing, and the Steering Wheel

As the rear sled must oscillate some, means must be provided for this tilting motion while at the same time preventing sidewise turning. The construction used for this purpose is a hinged joint. The heavy 2 by 5-in. crosspiece is cut sloping on the width so that it remains 2 in. thick at one edge and tapers down to a feather edge at the opposite side. This makes a wedge-shaped piece, to which surface the three large hinges are attached. The piece is then solidly fastened to the upper edges of the runners that are to be used for the rear sled, and so located that the center of the piece will be 8 in. from the front end of the runners.

The supporting crosspiece on the front sled is fastened on top of the runners, at a place where its center will be 11 in. from the front end of the runners.

The top board is prepared by making both ends rounding and planing the surfaces smooth. On the under side, the two crosspieces are placed, which should have two 1/2-in. holes bored through the width of each, near the ends, to receive the eyebolts. They are placed, one with its center 12 in. from the end to be used for the rear, and the other with its center 8 in. from the front end, and securely fastened with screws. The shore is placed in the center of the board, and wires are run over it connecting the eyebolts. The eyebolts are then drawn up tightly to make the wire taut over the shore. This will prevent the long board from sagging.

LIST OF MATERIALS

On the upper side of the board and beginning at the rear end, the backs are fastened at intervals of 18 in. They are first prepared by rounding the corners on the ends used for the tops, and the opposite ends are cut slightly on an angle to give the back a slant. They are then fastened with the small hinges to the top board. On the edges of the top board, 1-in. holes are bored about 1 in. deep, and pins driven for foot rests. These are located 18 in. apart, beginning about 5 in. from the front end. The dowel is used for the pins, which are made 4 in. long.

The Top Board is Well Braced on the Under Side and Fitted with Four Backs on Top to Make It a Luxurious Riding Sled, and the Runners are Provided with Metal Shoes for Speed

The steering device consists of a broom handle, cut to 18 in. in length, with one end fastened in a hole bored centrally in the 5-in. crosspiece of the front sled. A hole is bored in the top board through the center of the crosspiece fastened to the under side for the steering post. The broomstick is run through this hole after first placing two metal washers on it. After running the stick through, a collar is fastened to it just above the top board, so that the top cannot be raised away from the sled. At the upper end of the broomstick a steering wheel is attached, made from a nail-keg hoop. A piece of wood is fastened across its diameter, and the hoop is covered with a piece of garden hose and wrapped with twine. In the center of the crosspiece, a hole is bored to snugly fit on the broom handle, which is then fastened with screws.

The rear sled is fastened to the top board with screws through the extending wings of the hinges and into the crosspiece. Holes are bored in the front ends of all runners, and a chain or rope is attached in them, the loop end of the rear one being attached to the under side of the top board, and the one in the front used for drawing the sled.

To Prevent Drill from Catching As It Passes through Metal

The regular slope of a drill will cause the cutting edge to catch as it breaks through the metal on the opposite side of the piece being drilled. But if a twist drill is ground more flat like a flat drill, it will not "grab" into the metal as it passes through.—Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

An Ice Boat and Catamaran
By Robert K. Patterson

This combination is produced by using the regular type of ice boat and substituting boats for the runners, to make the catamaran.

In constructing the ice boat, use two poles, or timbers, one 16 ft. and the other 10-1/2 ft. long, crossed at a point 2-1/2 ft. from one end of the longer timber. The crossed pieces are firmly braced with wires, as shown.

The mast, which should be about 12 ft. long, is set into a mortise cut in the long timber, 15 in. from the front end, and is further stabilized by wires, as shown. A jib boom, about 6 ft. long, as well as a main boom, which is 11-1/2 ft. long, are hung on the mast in the usual manner.

The Ice Boat Provides an Ideal Outing in Winter Where There Is a Body of Water Large Enough for Sailing

The front runners consist of band-iron strips, 18 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1/8 in. thick, with one edge ground like the edge of a skate, and the ends rounding, which are fastened with bolts to the sides of wood pieces, 18 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 2 in. thick, allowing the ground edge to project about 1 inch.

When the ice-boat frame is made of poles, the runners are attached to a piece of wood, 12 in. long, shaped as shown and fastened at right angles with bolts running through the shouldered part diagonally. This makes a surface on which the pole end rests and where it is securely fastened with bolts. If squared timbers are used, the runners can be fastened directly to them. The rear, or guiding, runner is fastened between two pieces of wood, so that its edge projects; then it is clamped in a bicycle fork, which should be cut down so that about 3 in. of the forks remain. A hole is bored through the rear end of the long pole to receive the fork head, the upper end of which is supplied with a lever. The lever is attached to the fork head by boring a hole through the lever end at a slight angle to fit the head, allowing sufficient end to be slotted, whereupon a hole is bored through the width of the handle, and a bolt inserted, to act as a clamp.

The Ice-Boat Details, Showing Construction with Straight Poles Having Detachable Runners So the Boats can be Supplied in Their Stead to Make a Sailing Catamaran for Use in Summer

A board is fastened on two crosspieces mortised in the upper part of the pole, for a place to sit on when driving the boat. The sail can be constructed of any good material to the dimensions given.

To rig up the ice boat for use as a catamaran, place a pole across the stern, the length of the pole being equal to the one used on the front part of the ice boat. Two water-tight boats are constructed, 16 ft. long, 12 in. wide, and 10 in. deep at the center. To make these two boats procure six boards, 16 ft. long, 10 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Three boards are used to make each boat. Bend one board so that it will be in an arc of a circle, then nail on the two side boards, after which the edges of the sides are cut away to the shape of the bent board. The runners are removed from the ice boat, and the boats fastened to the pole ends. A rudder is attached in the place of the rear, or guiding, runner. The tops of the boats, or floats, can be covered and made water-tight.

Mind-Reading Effect with Cards

Five cards are shown, and some one person is asked to think of two cards in the lot, after which the performer places the cards behind his back and removes any two cards, then shows the remaining three and asks if the two cards in mind have been removed. The answer is always yes, as it cannot be otherwise.

To prepare the cards, take any 10 cards from the pack and paste the back of one card to another, making five double cards. Removing any two cards behind the performer's back reduces the number of cards to three, and when these are turned over they will not have the same faces so that the ones first seen cannot be shown the second time even though all five cards were turned over and shown.

An Air Pencil to Make Embossed Letters

The device illustrated is for making embossed letters on show cards, signs, post cards, etc. A small bulb, such as used on cameras, is procured, also the spout from a small oilcan. The bulb is fastened to the spout as shown.

The material for use in the pencil is quick-drying mucilage thickened with flake white. If some special color is desired, tint the mixture with aniline. Fill the spout with the mixture and attach the bulb. Squeeze the bulb gently while forming the letters, then dust over with bronze, and allow to dry.

The Oilcan Spout Is the Reservoir to Hold the Paint, and the Bulb Produces the Air Pressure

An Endless Dish or Floor Mop

A good way to use up cord that collects about the house, is to make an endless dish or floor mop of it. Procure a thin board that will make a good length and wind the cord around it, then remove it from the board and tie the bunch together in the center.

Combination Tie Rack and Collar Holder

An unusual though simple tie rack can be made by supporting the tie bar in the center. By this arrangement the ties can be placed on it from either end, thus avoiding the tedious threading through, required on the ordinary rack supported at each end. Collars may be hung on a peg placed above the tie bar. The pieces can be glued together and a good finish given in the usual way. The rack can be hung up by two screw eyes. The material required consists of four pieces, dimensioned 5/8 by 5 by 8 in., 3/8 by 7/8 by 7-1/2 in., 3/8 by 5/8 by 3-1/8 in., and 7/8 by 7/8 by 2 in. respectively.—Contributed by Arthur C. Vener, Dallas, Texas.

Collar and Tie Rack with Open-End Hangers So That the Articles can be Slipped On Easily without being Passed behind a Bar as Is Usually the Case

Skates Made of Wood

Skates that will take the place of the usual steel-runner kind and which will prevent spraining of the ankles, can be made of a few pieces of 1/2-in. boards.

Four runners are cut out, 2 in. wide at the back and 1-1/2 in. wide at the front, the length to be 2 in. longer than the shoe. The top edges of a pair of runners are then nailed to the under side of a board 4 in. wide, at its edges.

A piece of board, or block, 2 in. wide is fastened between the runners at the rear, and one 1 in. wide, in front. Two bolts are run through holes bored in the runners, one just back of the front board, or block, and the other in front of the rear one.

Four triangular pieces are fastened, one on each corner, so that the heel and toe of the shoe will fit between them, and, if desired, a crosspiece can be nailed in front of the heel. Straps are attached to the sides for attaching the skate to the shoe. Both skates are made alike.—Contributed by F. E. Kennar, Hennessey, Okla.

Skates Made of Wood to Take the Place of the Steel-Runner Kind and Prevent Sprained Ankles

The best paint for paper roofing is asphaltum varnish.

An Ice Glider
By Mildred E. Thomas

The enthusiastic pushmobilist need not put aside his hobby during the winter, as an amusement device for use on ice, which will surpass the very best pushmobile, can be easily made as shown in the illustration.

The Glider is Pushed over the Ice Similarly to a Pushmobile, and the Speed That can be Attained is Much Greater

Similar to an ice yacht, only a great deal smaller, the ice glider will require three ordinary skates, two of which are fastened to the ends of the front crosspiece, so that their blades will stand at an angle of about 30 deg. with their edges outward. To get this angle, tapering blocks are fastened to the crosspiece ends, as shown. The skates are then fastened to these blocks.

Detail of the Parts for the Construction of the Ice Glider, or Pushmobile

The crosspiece is 30 in. long and about 8 in. wide. In the center of this piece an upright is constructed, 26 in. high. The edges of the front crosspiece are cut on a slant so that a piece nailed to its front and back edge will stand sloping toward the rear. A handle, 24 in. long, is fastened between the two uprights at the upper end. The rear part is made of a board, 8 in. wide and 40 in. long. The remaining skate is fastened in a perfectly straight position on the rear end. The skates may be attached with screws run through holes drilled in the top plates, or with straps. The front end of the rear board has a hole for a bolt to attach it to the center of the front crosspiece, so that the latter will turn to guide the glider.

A pusher is prepared from a block of wood, into which nails are driven with their ends projecting on the under side. The block is strapped to one shoe, as shown.

The Block of Wood with Projecting Nails to Fasten on the Shoe That Does the Pushing

The glider is used in the same manner as a pushmobile.

The pusher can be made in another way by using sole leather instead of the block. Small slots are cut in the sides for the straps. Nails are driven through the leather so that the points project. Either kind of pusher is especially adapted for the pushmobile to prevent wear on the shoe.

Prony Brake for Testing Small Motors

The ordinary prony brake is not, as a rule, sensitive enough to make an accurate test on small motors, such as those used in driving sewing machines, washing machines, vacuum cleaners, etc. The arrangement shown in the accompanying sketch has been used for this purpose with good results and was very accurate. The operation of the brake is exceedingly simple.

Prony Brake Used in Connection with a Small Balance to Find the Horsepower

A pulley without a crown face is attached to the shaft of the motor, which is fastened to the top of a table or bench, and a balance mounted directly over the pulley. The support for the balance should be a narrow strip, which in turn is supported on two upright pieces, as shown. A light rope is put under the pulley, and the ends are looped over the platforms of the balance so that it does not interfere with the operation of the balance. The ends of the rope should be vertical and parallel. The piece upon which the balance rests is raised by inserting wedges, thus increasing the tension in the rope. The resulting friction of the rope on the pulley increases the load.

If the motor is running in the direction indicated by the arrow on the pulley, the tension in the left-hand end of the rope will be greater than in the right-hand end and a weight must be placed on the right-hand platform of the balance. When the weight W is adjusted so that the two pointers on the platforms are exactly opposite each other, the value of the weight W, in pounds, will represent the difference in pull, in pounds, between A and B. If the value of the weight W is known and also the speed of the machine when the weight was determined, the horsepower output can be computed by means of the following equation:

In this equation, L is the distance in inches from the center of the pulley to the center of the rope. Two ordinary spring balances may be substituted for the beam balance and the difference in their readings taken for the value W. For best results, the tension in the slack end of the rope should be as small as possible, and it may be necessary to wrap the rope one or more times completely around the pulley.

A Mystic Fortune Teller

Fortune telling by means of weights striking glasses or bottles is quite mysterious if controlled in a manner that cannot be seen by the audience. The performer can arrange two strikes for "no," and three for "yes" to answer questions. Any kind of bottles, glass, or cups may be used. In the bottles the pendulum can be suspended from the cork, and in the glasses from small tripods set on the table.

The Rocking of the Table is Caused by the Pressure of Air in the Bulb under the Foot, the Movement Causing the Pendulum to Swing and Strike the Glass

The secret of the trick is as follows: A rubber tube with a bulb attached to each end is placed under a rug, one bulb being located under one table leg and the other near the chair of the performer set at some distance from the table where it can be pressed with the foot. Some one selects a pendulum; the performer gazes intently at it, and presses the bulb under his foot lightly at first; then, by watching the swaying of the pendulum selected, he will know when to give the second impulse, and continue until the weight strikes the glass. As the pendulums are of different lengths they must necessarily swing at different rates per second. The impulses must be given at the proper time or else the pendulum will be retarded instead of increased in amplitude. A table with four legs is best to use, and the leg diagonally opposite that with the bulb beneath it must not touch the carpet or floor. This can be arranged by placing pieces of cardboard under the other two legs.—Contributed by James J. McIntyre.

Holding Prints in a Liquid-Filled Tray

Push Pins on the Under Side of the Board Raise It and Provide a Space for the Prints in the Liquid

After having considerable trouble in keeping my paper prints in the hypo fixing bath from curling, which would force the edges out of the liquid, I found the plan here illustrated a success. I procured a piece of wood, the size of a postcard, and stuck four glass push pins into one surface, one at each corner, and fastened a handle to the center of the upper side. The papers are first placed in the bath, then the board is set over them with the pins down. This holds the prints under the liquid but does not press them tightly together.—Contributed by J. J. Kolar, Maywood, Ill.

A piece of an old gunny sack will polish brass work very nicely.

Cellar-Door Holder

A cellar door that opened up against a wall required a catch of some kind to keep it open at times. As I did not want a catch to show on the wall, I devised a holder as shown. Three pieces of wood were nailed to the under side of the door in such positions that they formed a recess in which a fourth piece, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick, would slide endways. A knob was attached to the upper end of the slide, which served the double purpose of a handle and a stop for the slide. The manner of using the holder is clearly shown.—Contributed by H. T. Smith, Topeka, Kansas.

An Emergency Pencil Compass

The need of a compass when none was at hand caused me to quickly devise a substitute for the work. A piece of stiff wire, about the length of the pencil, was procured, and several turns were made around the pencil, as shown. The lower straight end was filed to a point. The wire can be bent to obtain the radius distance.—Contributed by Preston Ware, Rome, Ga.

A very effective dip for brass and copper articles, that will leave a clean and bright finish, is 2 qt. of aqua fortis, 1 gal. of sulphuric acid, 1 pt. of water and a pinch of salt.

Renewing Carbon Paper

When carbon paper has been used several times, the preparation becomes almost worn off on some parts, while other parts of the paper are as good as new. The process of renewing is very simple and it can be done by anyone without special apparatus. All that is necessary is to hold the paper in front of a fire or over a radiator a few seconds. The heat will cause the preparation to dissolve and spread over the paper, so that when it is dry the paper will have a new coating. This can be repeated, and in some cases will double the life of the carbon paper.—Contributed by Chester M. Kearney, Danville, Quebec.

How to Clinch a Finishing Nail

A wire or finishing nail may be clinched as nicely as a wrought nail, if a nail punch or piece of iron is placed along the side of it, as shown at A, and the nail hammered into an arched form, as at B. The punch or rod is then withdrawn and the arch driven into the wood.—Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

To Prevent Washbasin Bottom from Wearing Out

The ears from some sirup buckets were removed and three of them soldered, at equal distances apart, on the bottom of the washbasin near the outside edge of the lower part. These prevented the wear from coming on the bottom of the basin, and it lasted several times as long as ordinarily.—Contributed by A. A. Ashley, Blanket, Texas.

To curl feathers, heat slightly before a fire, then stroke with something like the back of a case knife.

Snowshoes: How to Make and Use Them
By Stillman Taylor

Part I—Shapes of Snowshoes

To the inventive mind of the North American Indian we owe the snowshoe, and its conception was doubtless brought about through that prolific source of invention—necessity. The first models were crude web-footed affairs, but improvements in model and manner of filling the frames were gradually added until the perfected and graceful shoe of the present was finally reached. The first snowshoes were made by the Indians, and the Indians of Maine and Canada continue to fashion the finest models today.

The snowshoe is a necessity for the sportsman and trapper whose pleasure or business leads him out in the open during the winter season, when roads and trails are heavily blanketed by a deep fall of powdery snow. But the use of the web shoe is by no means confined to the dweller in the wilderness, since the charm of wintry wood and plain beckons many lovers of the outdoors to participate in this invigorating sport, and snowshoe tramps are fast growing in popularity in and about our cities and towns.

All the modern snowshoes are constructed upon practically the same general lines, although the types of frames differ considerably in size as well as in shape, and the filling of hide is often woven in many varied and intricate patterns. The frame or bow—usually made of ash in order to get strength with light weight—is bent in many shapes, but the one shown in the diagram is a typical general-purpose shoe, and may be called standard. The frame is held in shape by means of two wooden cross braces, neatly mortised into the frame. These braces are spaced some 15 or 16 in. apart, and so divide the shoe into three sections, known as the toe, center, and heel. The filling is woven into a lanyard, which is a light strip of hide firmly laced to the frame through a double row of holes drilled in the wood. The center filling is woven of heavy strands of rawhide, in a fairly coarse mesh, because this part of the shoe must bear the weight of the body and the brunt of wear. The end fillers for toe and heel are woven of lighter strands of hide, and the mesh is, of course, smaller.

The Frame of a Snowshoe in Its Usual Construction, Showing the Crosspieces with Their Laced Fillings of Hide and the Different Parts Named, for a Ready Reference

As may be noted by referring to the drawing, a center opening or "toe hole" is provided, and as the greater strain on the filling lies directly under the ball of the foot, the shoe is reinforced at this point by the "toe cord" running across, and the "toe-cord stays," which are tied in on each side of the toe hole—one end being fastened to the toe cord and the other lashed over the wooden cross bar of the frame. These reinforcing cords are formed of several strands of hide, the stays being again wound with finer strands.

To prevent slipping and to secure a good foothold while walking, the manner of attaching the foot to the shoe is of importance, and this is done by making use of a toe strap, which will allow the toe to push down through the toe opening as the heel of the foot is lifted in the act of walking. A second strap, or thong, leading from the top around the foot, above the curve of the heel, is needed to lend additional support in lifting the snowshoe, to effect the easy shambling stride characteristic of the snowshoer.

There are, of course, a great number of models or styles, some one style being popular in one locality, while an altogether different style is preferred in another part of the country. The most representative types are well shown in the illustrations, and a brief description will point out their practical advantages, because each model possesses certain merits—one model being designed for fast traveling in the open, another better adapted for brush travel, while others are more convenient for use in a hilly country where much climbing is done, and so on.

A: Snowshoe Experts Regard This as an Extreme Style, for It is Long and Narrow

Style A is regarded by snowshoe experts as an extreme style, for it is long and narrow. It is designed for fast traveling over smooth and level country, and over loose, powdery snow. This style is much used by the Cree Indians, and is usually made 12 in. wide by 60 in. long, with a deeply upcurved toe. It is a good shoe for cross-country work, but is somewhat difficult to manage on broken trails, when the snow is packed, and also affords rather slippery footing when crossing ice. Owing to the stout construction of the frame and reinforcement needed to retain the high, curved toe, style A is more difficult to manage than the more conservative models, and its stiffness of frame makes it more fatiguing to wear, while its use is a decided handicap in mountainous districts, because a curved toe always makes hill climbing more difficult.

B: This Snowshoe is Considered the Ordinary Eastern Model and One Best Adapted for All-Around Use

Style B may be considered the ordinary eastern model, and a common style best adapted for all-around use. It is a neat and gracefully designed frame, about 12 in. wide and 42 in. long, and is usually made with a slightly upcurving toe, about 2 in. turn at the toe being correct. When made by the Indians of Maine, this model is fashioned with a rather heavy heel, which is an advantage for fast walking, while it increases the difficulty in quick turning.

C: The Style Illustrated Here is Splendid for General Purposes and is a Favorite among Hunters and Woodsmen

Style C is a favorite model among the hunters and woodsmen of New England. This is a splendid style for general purposes in this section of the country, since the full, round toe keeps the toe up near the surface, and lets the heel cut down more than the narrow-toe models. Style C is an easy shoe to wear, and while not so fast as the long, narrow frame, its full shape is more convenient for use in the woods. It is usually made with about 1 to 1-1/2-in. turn at the toe.

D: This is the Familiar "Bear's-Paw" Model, Originated by the Northeastern Trapper for Use on Short Tramps and in Brush

Style D is the familiar "bear's paw," a model originating with the northeastern trapper. This model is well adapted for short tramps in the brush, and having a flat toe, is likewise a good shoe for mountain climbing. For tramping about in thick brush, a short, full shoe enables one to take a shorter stride and turn more quickly, but it is a slow shoe for straight-ahead traveling.

When purchasing a pair of snowshoes, some few important considerations should be kept in mind, and the size and model will depend upon the man to some extent, since a large, heavy man will require a larger snowshoe than would suffice for a person of lighter weight. Height also enters into the choice, and while a small person can travel faster and with less fatigue when equipped with a proportionately small shoe, a tall man will naturally pick out a larger-sized snowshoe for his use. For a country where deep snows prevail, larger sizes are best, but in localities where the snow packs solidly and there is considerable ice, and in mountainous districts, or for rough-country traveling, the smaller sizes will give more satisfaction and prove more durable also. For a wet-snow locality, the center filling should be strung in rather coarse mesh, while for soft, powdery snow, a finer mesh will be the logical choice.

There are snowshoes and snowshoes, and while there are fine models regularly stocked by a few of the better sporting-goods firms, there is likewise a deal of poorly made snowshoes on the market. It is well to pay a fair price and secure a dependable handmade article, for the cheaper snowshoes—often filled with seine twine and the cheapest hide (commonly known in the trade as "gut")—will warp and twist in the frame, and the shoddy filling will soon become loosened up and "bag" after a little use. The best snowshoes that the writer is acquainted with are made by the Indians, and the filling is ordinarily made of neat's hide; cowhide for the center filling, and calfskin for the toe and heel. A first-class pair of snowshoes may be had for about $6 to $7.50, and when possible to do so, it is best to have them made to order. This plan is, of course, necessary in case one wishes to incorporate any little wrinkles of his own into their making, or desires a flatter toe, lighter heel, or a different mesh from the usual stock models.

Where but one pair of snowshoes is purchased, style B will probably prove the best selection, and should be ordered with the flat toe, or a turn not greater than 1 in. The frame may be in either one or two pieces, depending upon the size of the shoe and the ideas of the Indian maker, but it is well to specify white ash for the frames in the order. No Indian maker would be guilty of using screws or other metal fastenings, but many of the cheap and poorly fashioned snowshoes are fastened at the heel with screws, thus making this a decidedly weak point, since the wood is quite certain to split after a little rough service. In contrast to the poor workmanship of these low-priced snowshoes, the Indian-made article is fashioned from sound and properly seasoned wood; the cross bars are snugly fitted by mortising to the frame; the filling is tightly woven, and the heel is properly fastened by lacing with a rawhide it is a good idea to select a filling of good heavy weight and with a firmly woven and open mesh, say, about 3/4 in. The toe and heel sections will, of course, be of finer-cut hide and smaller mesh, and it is wise to avoid those shoes employing seine twine for the end filling. Some factory-made snowshoes are given a coat or two of varnish, but this, while serving to make them partly waterproof, makes them rather slippery when crossing logs and ice. Most woodsmen prefer to leave both frame and filling in their natural condition.

The Indian-made snowshoe is always thong. However, Indian makers are likely to make the toe small and leave the wood to form a rather heavy heel. Some few woodsmen and sportsmen may prefer this model, but the majority favor a fuller toe and a lighter heel for general use, because the regulation Indian model, cutting down at toe and heel equally deep, increases the difficulty of easy traveling over soft snow, although it is a good shoe when used over broken trails.

When buying snowshoes at the store, see that the frames are stoutly and well made, and for all-around use, provided with a generously large toe hole, so that ample foot covering may be used. This point is generally overlooked in the machine-made product, and the toe cords are also frequently roughly formed, thus chafing the feet and making them sore. These details may or may not prove a handicap for short tramps near town, but for long trips through the woods, they are important considerations.

The Indian manner of tying the snowshoe to the foot by means of a single twisted and knotted thong is a good method of attachment, in that, if the thong is properly adjusted to the requisite snugness in the first place, the shoes may be quickly removed by a simple twist of the ankle. A better fastening is secured by using a fairly wide (3/4 in.) toe strap and a long thong. The toe strap is placed over the toes, immediately over the ball of the foot, and secured against slipping by weaving the ends in and out between the meshes of the filling until it reaches the frame on either side. This grips the toe strap firmly and does away with the necessity of tying a knot. A narrow thong, about 4 ft. long, is now doubled, the center placed just above the heel of the foot, and the ends passed under the toe cord, just outside of the toe-cord stays on each side. The thong is then brought up and across the toes, one end passing over and the other under the toe strap. Each end of the thong is now looped around the crossed thong, on either side, and then carried back over the back of the heel and knotted with a common square or reef knot. Calfskin makes a good flexible foot binding, or a suitable strip of folded cloth or canvas may be used.

The regulation snowshoe harness, consisting of a leather stirrup for the toe and an instep and heel strap, will be found more comfortable than the thong, and when once adjusted snugly to the foot, the shoes may be quickly taken off and put on again by pushing the heel strap down, when the foot may be slipped out of the toe stirrup.

The use of heavy leather shoes is of course undesirable, and the only correct footwear for snowshoeing is a pair of high-cut moccasins, cut roomy enough to allow one or more pairs of heavy woolen stockings to be worn. The heavy and long German socks, extending halfway to the knee, drawn on over the trouser legs, are by far the most comfortable for cold-weather wear. The feet, thus shod, will not only be warm in the coldest weather, but the free use of the toes is not interfered with. Leather shoes are cold and stiff, and the heavy soles and heels, chafing against the snowshoes, will soon ruin the filling.

Soldering and Riveting
By John D. Adams

There are two simple processes that every experimenter should master: soldering and riveting. The large soldering copper will find only a very restricted use with the amateur on account not only of its clumsiness, but of the fact that it requires a fire, which is often impracticable to obtain. The experimenter should therefore construct a small alcohol lamp, which, after a little experience, will reveal the following advantages: It may be brought into instant use at any place; it will make a more perfect connection; with a small blowpipe places may be reached that are entirely inaccessible to the large iron; several small pieces may be set in position and soldered without disturbing them, which is quite impossible with the large iron.

(alcohol lamp)

To make such a lamp, procure a small wide-mouthed bottle so that very little alcohol will be necessary and the lamp may be tipped at any desired angle. A short piece of seamless brass tubing should be procured, or, preferably, one of those capped brass cylinders for holding pencil leads, the button of which should be sawn off and the cap used to keep the alcohol from evaporating. A good, sound cork is next in order, and in cutting the central hole, use the brass tube, which should be sharpened around the lower end. Proceed with a rotary motion, and a clean core will be removed. If an ordinary lamp wick is not at hand, soft cotton string may be bundled up as a substitute. Such a lamp is safe, odorless and will not blacken the work in the least as in the case of kerosene or gasoline.

There are many good soldering fluxes on the market, but that obtained by dissolving as much scrap of zinc as possible in muriatic acid will solder practically everything that may be necessary, provided, of course, the surfaces are filed or scraped bright. Wire solder is usually the most convenient, as small pieces can be readily cut off and placed directly on the work where required. A small blowpipe is often a valuable adjunct, as it makes possible a long, narrow flame that may be directed in almost any direction.

A Small Torch Made of a Penholder is Handy to Use in Soldering Electrical Apparatus

Where numerous small connections are to be made, as is often the case with electrical apparatus, the small torch illustrated will be found very convenient. It is simply an old penholder with the wood portion shortened somewhat and the metal end filed off square and cleaned out. This is then filled with wicking, and it is only necessary to dip it in alcohol in order to soak up enough to solder an ordinary connection.

The second simple process, of which many fail to appreciate the usefulness in experimental work, is that of riveting—particularly when done on a small scale. Very often the material in hand is tempered steel and cannot, therefore, be soldered to advantage, or it may be a case where subsequent heating makes a heat-proof connection imperative. Then, again, the joint may require the combined strength of both solder and rivet.

When properly set, the strength of the ordinary brass pin, when used as a rivet, is quite great. Should the work require a particularly soft rivet, it is only necessary to hold the pin for a moment in the flame of a match. A somewhat larger and stronger rivet may be made by softening and cutting to the required length the small flat-headed nails used in making cigar boxes. The ordinary shingle nail is also of a suitable shape after the burrs have been filed off under the head.

In setting these small rivets, it is absolutely necessary that they closely fit the holes, as at A, otherwise the result will be as indicated at B in the sketch. Be careful not to leave too great a length for rounding over on the metal. This extra length should approximately equal the diameter of the rivet and must be filed flat on the top before riveting. In case of pins, it will be found easier to cut them off to the proper length after they are inserted. Use the smallest hammer available, striking many light blows rather than a few heavy ones.

A Few Joints Where Rivets are Used to Hold the Parts Solidly Together

A Whistle

Cut a circular piece of tin any convenient size, preferably 3 in. in diameter, and bend it across the diameter so that it will be in a narrow U-shape. Then drill or punch a hole through both parts as shown. Place it in the mouth with the open edges out, being sure to press the lips on the metal tightly on both upper and lower pieces outside of the holes and to rest the tongue against the edge of the tin, even with the holes, and blow.

The result of the first attempt may not be a sound, but with a little practice any familiar tune may be whistled.—Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.

Card-and-Coin Trick

If a card is balanced on the finger and a coin placed on the card directly over the finger, one would not think that the card could be flipped out leaving the coin on the finger end. This is easily accomplished, if care is taken to snap the card sharply and squarely.—Contributed by R. Neland, Minneapolis, Minn.

How to Make a Costumer

With but little skill, and such tools as are ordinarily found around a home, a plain but serviceable costumer can be made, as shown in the sketch. The necessary materials for it are: One main post, 1-1/2 in. square and about 6-1/2 ft. long; four legs, or foot brackets, 3/4 by 6 by 9 in.; four brass clothes hooks, and the necessary screws and varnish for assembling and finishing.

The center post should be chamfered at the top to relieve the abruptness. The four legs should all be made alike and in some shape that allows them to be fastened to the post in a simple manner. In the sketch, the legs are fastened to the post by one visible screw at the top and one put in on an incline through the bottom edge of the leg. The clothes hooks are fastened to the post in pairs at different heights, thereby preventing the screws of adjacent hooks from running into one another. The finish of the costumer should be such as to match the woodwork of its surroundings.—Contributed by Harry A. Packard, Norway, Maine.

Window Catch Used for Locking an Extension Table

To prevent the two ends of an extension table from pulling apart when not desired, an ordinary window catch can be fastened and locked in place to the under side of the table top with one part on each end of the table. If but one catch is used and fastened in the center, it is best to mark it off first, and then pull the table ends apart to fasten the catch more easily. It may be desired to use two catches for a very heavy table, in which case it would be best to place one on either side of the center.—Contributed by F. M. Griswold, New York, N. Y.

Relieving Pressure on Heated Canned Foods for Opening

In opening a can of food that has been heated, the instant the cover is punctured the steam will force out a part of the contents, which is very annoying. To avoid this, pour a little cold water on the cover and allow it to remain a few seconds, then turn it off and immediately puncture the cover. This will counteract the interior force, and the can may be opened without trouble.—Contributed by Joseph Kohlbecher, Jr., San Francisco, Cal.

Clothespin Bag

Clothespins are usually kept in a bag, and the one our home possessed had a draw string which would always stick and hold the bag shut. The remedy for this, and a time saver also, was to remove the draw string and insert instead a piece of wire, which was afterward shaped to a circle with an eyelet at the joint. The bag can be hung on a nail and the mouth is always open to its fullest extent, yet lies flat against the wall.—Contributed by Jas. A. Hart, Philadelphia, Pa.

Snowshoes: How to Make and Use Them
By Stillman Taylor

Part II—Making the Shoe

[In making the snowshoe it may be necessary to refer to the previous chapter to select the style, or to locate the name of the parts used in the description.—Editor.]

Snowshoe making is an art, and while few, if any, white men can equal the Indian in weaving the intricate patterns which they prefer to employ for filling the frames, it is not very difficult to fashion a good solid frame and then fill it by making use of a simple and open system of meshing. For the frames, white ash is much the best wood, but hickory and white birch are dependable substitutes, if the former cannot be obtained. Birch is perhaps the best wood to use when the sportsman wishes to cut and split up his own wood, but as suitable material for the frames may be readily purchased for a small sum, probably the majority of the readers will elect to buy the material. Any lumber dealer will be able to supply white ash, and it is a simple matter to saw out the frames from the board. The sawed-out frame is inferior to the hand-split bow, but if good, selected material can be obtained, there will be little, if any, difference for ordinary use.

When dry and well-seasoned lumber is used, the frame may be made to the proper dimensions, but when green wood is selected, the frame must be made somewhat heavier, to allow for the usual shrinkage in seasoning. For a stout snowshoe frame, the width should be about 1-1/16 in.; thickness at toe, 7/16 in., and thickness at heel, 9/16 in. The frame should be cut 2 in. longer than the finished length desired, and in working the wood, remember that the toe of the finished frame will be the center of the stick; the heel, the end of the stick, and the center of the shoe will lie halfway between the heel and toe.

The Design of the Snowshoe is Traced on a Board, and Blocks are Used to Shape the Frame or Bow

After the frames have been finished, the dry wood must be steamed before it can be safely bent to the required shape, and before doing this, a wooden bending form must be made. An easy way to make this form is to first draw a pattern of the model on a sheet of paper, cut out the pencil mark, and, placing this pattern on a board, carefully trace the design on the wooden form. A number of cleats, or blocks, of wood will now be needed; the inside blocks being nailed in position, but the outside stay blocks being simply provided with nails in the holes, so they may be quickly fastened in position when the steamed frame is ready for the form.

To make the frame soft for bending to shape, steaming must be resorted to, and perhaps the easiest way of doing this is to provide boiling water in a wash boiler, place the wood over the top, and soak well by mopping with the boiling water, shifting the stick about until the fibers have become soft and pliable. After 10 or 15 minutes of the hot-water treatment, wrap the stick with cloth and bend it back and forth to render it more and more pliable, then use the hot-water treatment, and repeat the process until the wood is sufficiently soft to bend easily without splintering. The toe being the greatest curve, must be well softened before putting on the form, otherwise the fibers are likely to splinter off at this point. When the frame is well softened, place it on the bending form while hot, slowly bend it against the wooden inside blocks, and nail on the outside blocks to hold it to the proper curve. Begin with the toe, and after fastening the outside blocks to hold this end, finish one side, then bend the other half to shape. The bent frame should be allowed to dry on the form for at least a week; if removed before the wood has become thoroughly dry and has taken a permanent set, the frame will not retain its shape. The same bending form may be used for both frames, but if one is in a hurry to finish the shoes, two forms should be made, and considerable pains must be taken to make them exactly alike in every way.

Locate the Cross Bars by Balancing the Frame, Then Fit the Ends in Shallow Mortises

When the frames are dry, secure the tail end of the frame by boring three holes about 4 in. from the end, and fasten with rawhide. The work of fitting the two cross bars may now be undertaken, and the balance of the snowshoe depends upon fitting these bars in their proper places. Before cutting the mortise, spring the two bars in the frame about 15 in. apart, and balance the shoe in the center by holding it in the hands. When the frame exactly balances, move the bars sufficiently to make the heel about 3 oz. heavier than the toe, and mark the place where the mortises are to be cut. The cross bars and mortise must be a good tight fit, and a small, sharp chisel will enable the builder to make a neat job. It is not necessary to cut the mortise very deep; 1/4 in. is ample to afford a firm and snug mortised joint.

The lanyard to which the filling is woven is next put in, by boring pairs of small holes in the toe and heel sections, and lacing a narrow rawhide thong through the obliquely drilled holes. Three holes are then bored in the cross bar—one on each side about 1-1/2 in. from the frame, and the third in the center of the bar; the lanyard being carried through these holes in the cross bar.

Begin Weaving the Toe Filling at the Corner of Cross Bar and Frame, Carrying It Around in a Triangle until Complete

Begin the toe filling first, by making an eye in one end of the thong, put the end through the lanyard loop and then through the eye, thus making a slipknot. Start to weave at the corner where the bar and frame are mortised, carry the strand up and twist it around the lanyards in the middle of the toe, then carry it down and make a like twist around the lanyard loop in the opposite corner. The thong is now looped around the next lanyard (No. 2 from the crossbar lanyard) and fastened with the twisted loop knot illustrated. Continue the strand across the width of toe space and make a similar loop knot on No. 2 lanyard on the starting side, twist it around the strand first made and loop it under the next cross-bar lanyard loop, then carry it up and twist it around the lanyard loop in the toe of the frame, continuing in the same manner until the last lanyard of the toe is reached, when the space is finished by making the twisted loop knot until the space is entirely filled. It is a difficult matter to describe by text, but the illustrations will point out the correct way, and show the manner of making an endless thong by eye-splicing, as well as illustrating the wooden bodkin or needle used in pulling the woven strands taut. This bodkin is easily made from a small piece of wood, about 1/4 in. thick, and about 2 in. long. To simplify matters, the heel may be filled in the same manner as the toe.

An Endless Thong is Made with Eyes Cut in the Ends of the Leather, and Each Part is Run through the Eye of the Other

For the center, which must be woven strong and tight, a heavier strand of hide must be used. Begin with the toe cord first, and to make this amply strong, carry the strand across the frame five or six times, finishing with a half-hitch knot, as shown, then carry it up and twist it around the cross bar to form the first toe-cord stay.

The Heel Filling is Woven by Making the Connection with the Lanyard in the Same Manner as for the Toe Filling

As may be noted, the center section is filled by looping back and twisting the strands as when filling the toe. However, the filling is looped around the frame instead of a lanyard, and a clove hitch is used. A toe hole, 4 in. wide, must be provided for, and when enough of the filling has been woven in to make this opening, the thong is no longer looped around the cross bar, but woven through the toe cord. As the filling ends in the toe cord, it should be woven in and out at this point several times, finishing the toe hole by looping a strand around the cross bar at the side of the toe hole, then passing it down the toe-cord stay by twisting around it; then twisted around the toe cord along the filling to the other side of the toe hole, where it is twisted around the toe-cord stay on the opposite side, looped around the frame and ended in a clove hitch.

The Center must be Woven Strong and Tight, and for This Reason a Heavier Strand of Hide must be Used

At the first reading, it will doubtless appear difficult, but a careful examination of the illustrations will soon show how the trick is done, and indeed it is really a very simple matter, being one of those things which are easier to do than it is to tell how to do them. The method of filling has been purposely made simple, but the majority of shoes are filled in practically the same manner, which answers quite as well as the more intricate Indian design.

The knack of using the snowshoe is quickly mastered, providing the shoes are properly attached, to allow the toe ample freedom to work down through the toe hole as each foot is lifted. The shoe is, of course, not actually lifted in the air, but rather slid along the surface, half the width of one shoe covering the other when it is lifted in the act of walking. At first the novice may be inclined to think snowshoes a bit cumbersome and unwieldy, and doubt his ability to penetrate the brush. However, as the snowshoer becomes accustomed to their use, he will experience little if any difficulty in traveling where he wills. When making a trail in a more or less open country, it is a good plan to blaze it thoroughly, thus enabling one to return over the same trail, in case a fall of snow should occur in the meantime, or drifting snow fill up and obliterate the trail first made. When the trail is first broken by traveling over it once by snowshoe, the snow is packed well and forms a solid foundation, and even should a heavy fall of snow cover it, the blaze marks on tree and bush will point out the trail, which will afford faster and easier traveling than breaking a new trail each time one journeys in the same direction.

A well-made pair of snowshoes will stand a couple of seasons' hard use, or last for a year or two longer for general wear. To keep them in good shape, they should be dried out after use, although it is never advisable to place them close to a hot fire, or the hide filling will be injured. Jumping puts severe strain on the frame of the shoe, and while damage may not occur when so used in deep, soft snow, it is well to avoid the possibility of breakage. Accidents will now and then happen, to be sure, and as a thong may snap at some unexpected moment, keep a strand or two of rawhide on hand, to meet this emergency.

Combination Settee Rocker and Cradle

By fastening a frame with hinges to the front of a settee rocker, a combination piece of furniture can be made, which may be used either as a regular settee or as a cradle. For this purpose, a covered frame should be provided, being sufficiently long to extend across the front between the arm supports and having such a width that it will easily fit under the arms when hinged to the seat, as shown in the illustration. To keep the frame in position while serving as a cradle front, or when turned down for regular use, screw hooks are placed at each end, so that, in the former case, the frame, when swung up, can be secured in place by attaching the hooks to screw eyes fastened under the arm supports; while, for regular use, the frame is secured in its swung-down position by fastening the hooks into screw eyes properly placed in the front legs.—Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

A Settee Rocker with a Front Attachment to Make It into a Cradle When Desired

A Snowball Thrower
By Albert Bates, Jr.

The snow fort with its infantry is not complete without the artillery. A set of mortars, or cannon, placed in the fort to hurl snowballs at the entrenched enemy makes the battle more real. A device to substitute the cannon or a mortar can be easily constructed by any boy, and a few of them set in a snow fort will add greatly to the interest of the conflict.

The Dimensioned Parts and the Detail of the Completed Snowball Thrower

The substitute, which is called a snowball thrower, consists of a base, A, with a standard, B, which stops the arm C, controlled by the bar D, when the trigger E is released. The tripping of the trigger is accomplished by the sloping end of D on the slanting end of the upright F. Sides, G, are fastened on the piece F, with their upper ends extending above the bar D, to prevent the latter from jumping out when it is released by the trigger.

The trigger E is tripped with the handle H, connected to the piece J, on which all the working parts are mounted. The upper end of the arm C has a piece, K, to which is attached a tin can, L, for holding the snowball to be thrown. A set of door springs, M, furnishes the force to throw the snowball.

Cannonading a Snow Fort with the Use of a Snowball Thrower

All the parts are given dimensions, and if cut properly, they will fit together to make the thrower as illustrated.

Springs on the Chains of a Porch Swing

Two coil springs of medium strength placed in the chains of a porch swing will make it ride easier and also take up any unpleasant jars and rattles occasioned when a person sits heavily in the swing. If the swing is provided with a four-chain suspension, the springs should be used on the two rear chains to get the best results.—Contributed by E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Illinois.

Homemade Water Meter

Where it is necessary to measure water in large quantities the meter illustrated will serve the purpose as well as an expensive one, and can be made cheaply. The vessel, or bucket, for measuring the water is made diamond-shaped, as shown in Fig. 1, with a partition in the center to make two pockets of a triangular shape, each holding 2 qt., or any amount of sufficient size to take care of the flow of water.

When a Bucket is Filled to the Proper Amount It is Turned Out by the Weight (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)

The part forming the pockets is swung on an axis fastened to the lower part, which engages into bearings fastened to the sides of the casing, as shown in Fig. 2. Stops, A, are placed in the casing at the right places for each pocket to spill when exactly 2 qt. of water has run into it. It is obvious that when one pocket is filled, the weight will tip it over and bring the other one up under the flow of water.

The registering device consists of one or more wheels worked with pawls and ratchets, the first wheel being turned a notch at a time by the pawl B, Fig. 3. If each pocket holds 2 qt., the wheel is marked as shown, as each pocket must discharge to cause the wheel to turn one notch. The second wheel is worked by the lever and pawl C, which is driven with a pin D located in the first wheel. Any number of wheels can be made to turn in a like manner.—Contributed by F. A. Porter, Oderville, Utah.

A Snowball Maker

Snowball making is slow when carried on by hand, and where a thrower is employed in a snow fort it becomes necessary to have a number of assistants in making the snowballs. The time of making these balls can be greatly reduced by the use of the snowball maker shown in the illustration.

A Device for Making Snowballs Quickly and Perfectly Spherical in Shape

The base consists of a board, 24 in. long, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. A block of wood, A, is hollowed out in the center to make a depression in the shape of a hemisphere, 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 1-1/4 in. deep. This block is nailed to the base about 1 in. from one end. To make the dimensions come out right, fasten a block, B, 6 in. high, made of one or more pieces, at the other end of the base with its back edge 14-1/2 in. from the center of the hemispherical depression. On top of this block a lever, C, 20 in. long is hinged. Another block, D, is made with a hemispherical depression like the block A, and fastened to the under side of the lever, so that the depressions in both blocks will coincide. The lever end is shaped into a handle.

Two uprights, E, are fastened to the back side of the block A as guides for the lever C. A piece is fastened across their tops, and a spring is attached between it and the lever. A curtain-roller spring will be suitable.

In making the balls a bunch of snow is thrown into the lower depression and the lever brought down with considerable force.—Contributed by Abbott W. France, Chester, Pa.

An Inexpensive Bobsled

A Bobsled of Simple Construction Using Ordinary Barrel Staves for the Runners

Any boy who can drive a nail and bore a hole can have a bobsled on short notice. The materials necessary are four good, solid barrel staves; four blocks of wood, 4 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. thick; two pieces, 12 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; one piece, 12 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1-3/4 in. thick; and a good board, 4 ft. long, 12 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.

The crosspieces and knees are made with the blocks and the 1-in. pieces, 12 in. long, as shown; to which the staves are nailed for runners. One of these pieces with the runners is fastened to one end of the board, the other is attached with a bolt in the center. The 1-3/4 by 2-in. piece, 12 in. long, is fastened across the top of the board at the front end. A rope fastened to the knees of the front runners provides a means of steering the sled.

The sled can be quickly made, and it will serve the purpose well when an expensive one cannot be had.—Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Motor Made of Candles

Tallow Dripping from the Ends Alternately Lessens the Weight of the Arms and Causes the Tube to Tip

A tube of tin, or cardboard, having an inside diameter to receive a candle snugly, is hung on an axle in the center that turns in bearings made of wood. The construction of the bearings is simple, and they can be made from three pieces of wood as shown. The tube should be well balanced. Pieces of candle are then inserted in the ends, also well balanced. If one is heavier than the other, light it and allow the tallow to run off until it rises; then light the other end. The alternate dripping from the candles will cause the tube to tip back and forth like a walking beam. It will keep going automatically until the candles are entirely consumed.—Contributed by Geo. Jaques, Chicago.

Kettle-Handle Support

The handle of a kettle lying on the kettle rim will become so hot that it cannot be held in the bare hand. To keep the handle fairly cool it must be supported in an upright position. To do this, form a piece of spring wire in the shape shown, and slip it over the kettle rim. The shape of the extending end will hold the handle upright and away from the heat.

How to Make a Monorail Sled

A monorail sled, having a simple tandem arrangement of the runners, is very easily constructed as follows: The runners are cut from 1-in. plank of the size and shape given in the sketch, and are shod with strap iron, 1 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. Round iron or half-round iron should not be used, as these are liable to skid. The square, sharp edges of the strap iron prevent this and grip the surface just as a skate.

An Exhilarating Glide Accompanied by a Buoyant Sense of Freedom Only Obtained in the Monorail Type

The top is a board 6 ft. long and 1 in. thick, securely fastened to the runners as follows: Blocks are nailed, or bolted, on either side of the upper edge of the rear runner and the top is fastened to them with screws. The runner is also braced with strap iron, as shown. The same method applies to the front runner, except that only one pair of blocks are used at the center and a thin piece of wood fastened to their tops to serve as the fifth wheel.

The Construction is Much More Simple Than Making a Double-Runner Bobsled

The hole for the steering post should be 6 in. from the front end and a little larger in diameter than the steering post. The latter should be rounded where it passes through the hole, but square on the upper end to receive the steering bar, which must be tightly fitted in place.

In coasting, the rider lies full length on the board with his hands on the steering bar. This makes the center of gravity so low that there is no necessity for lateral steadying runners, and aside from the exhilarating glide of the ordinary sled, the rider experiences a buoyant sense of freedom and a zest peculiar to the monorail type. Then, too, the steering is effected much more easily. Instead of dragging the feet, a slight turn of the front runner with a corresponding movement of the body is sufficient to change the direction or to restore the balance. This latter is, of course, maintained quite mechanically, as everyone who rides a bicycle well knows.—Contributed by Harry Hardy, Whitby, Ont.

Binding Magazines

To bind magazines for rough service, proceed as follows: Place the magazines carefully one on top of the other in order, and space the upper one, near the back edge, for two rivets, marking off three equal distances, or, perhaps, the center space longer than the other two. Make two holes through all the magazines on the marks with an awl, or drill, then drive nails of the right length through them. Use small washers on both ends of the nails under the head and at the point, which is cut off and riveted over. This makes a good, serviceable binding for rough use.—Contributed by Carl W. Lindgreen, Los Angeles, Cal.

A Shellac Cement

As shellac is the basis of almost all cements, a good cement can be made by thickening shellac varnish with dry white lead. The two may be worked together on a piece of glass with a putty knife.

A Blackboard for Children

Take a wide window shade and attach it to a roller as if hanging it to a window. Cut it to about 3 ft. in length, hem the lower edge and insert in the slot in the usual manner. Procure some black slate paint and cover the shade on one side, giving it two coats. Allow sufficient time for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.

A blackboard of this kind is strong, and if attached to the wall with the shade fixtures, it can be rolled out of the way when not in use.—Contributed by Elizabeth Motz Rossoter, Colorado Springs, Col.

How to Make a Ski Staff

A ski staff will greatly assist progress over level stretches and is an aid to the ski runner in preserving his balance. A homemade staff that is easy to construct is shown in Fig. 1. At the upper end is a narrow leather loop for the wrist; at the extreme lower end a spike is placed for use on icy ground, and just above this spike is a disk, or stop, which, in deep snow, prevents the staff from sinking in too far and gives the necessary leverage for steering, propelling or righting oneself as needed.

The Staff, being Made of a Bamboo Pole, is Strong as Well as Light (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)

The staff is made of a piece of bamboo pole, 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 in. in diameter, and 4-1/2 ft. long. The leather for the loop can be made from an old strap, shaved down thinner and cut to a width of about 1/2 in. The stop is a disk of wood, 1/2 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter. This material should be well-seasoned white pine or spruce and coated with shellac. A hole is bored through the center of the disk to let it pass upward on the staff about 6 in. Here it is fastened with two pieces of heavy wire, A and B, Fig. 2. In this diagram, C is the staff, and D, the stop or disk. The wire A passes through the staff below the wire B and at right angles to it, wherefore the wire B must be bent as shown. Both wires are fastened to the stop with staples.

The lower end of the staff, as shown in Fig. 3, is plugged with hard wood, which is bored part way through its center to admit a wire spike. Slight recesses are made in the sides of this hole to anchor the lead which is poured in around the spike. The point of the latter is sharpened and then the bamboo wound with waxed twine, or fine wire, to prevent its splitting.

Fine emery cloth, glued to both sides of a piece of bristol board, makes a handy tool for cleaning the platinum points of a vibrator.

A Game Played on the Ice

A novel and interesting winter game for young and old, described as a novelty by a Swedish paper, is played as follows:

A Player in Action Ready to Spear a Ring that Hangs on the Line between the Poles

Two poles of convenient height are erected on the ice; if skating on a shallow pond they may be driven through the ice and into the ground, but if the water is deep, holes must be bored through the ice and the poles will soon freeze solidly in them. A rope is stretched between the poles at such a height as is suited to the size of the players, or as agreed on to make the game more or less difficult, and on this are strung a number of pieces of board, A, each having a ring of spring steel, B, attached to its lower end. The purpose of the game is to run at good speed between the poles and catch a ring on a spear, each player being entitled to make a certain number of runs, and the winner being the one who can catch the most rings.

The spears may be made of broom handles tapered toward one end, and with a shield made of tin and attached at a suitable distance from the thicker end (Pattern C). The line is fastened at the top of one pole and run through a pulley, D, at the top of the other, thence to a weight or line fastener. Each player should start from the same base line and pass between the poles at such a speed that he will glide at least 100 ft. on the other side of the poles without pushing himself forward by the aid of the skates. Twenty runs are usually allowed each player, or 10 players may divide into two parties, playing one against the other, etc. An umpire will be needed to see that fair play is maintained and settle any disputes that may arise.

An Electric Display for a Show Window

A novel window display that is very attractive, yet simple in construction and operation, can be made in the following manner: First, make a small watertight chamber, A, as long as the focal length of the lens to be used, and having a glass window, B, at one end, and a small round opening, C, at the other. In this opening is placed a cork through which a glass tube about 2 in. long is inserted. The tube makes a smooth passage for the stream of water flowing out of the box. Water from any source of supply enters the chamber through the tube D, which may be a pipe or hose, whichever is most convenient. The interior is painted a dull black.

A convenient and compact light is placed at the window end of the box. A very good light can be made by placing an electric light with a reflector in a closed box and fastening a biconvex lens, F, in the side facing the window of the water box. When the electric light and the water are turned on, the light is focused at the point where the water is issuing from the box, and follows the course of the stream of water, illuminating it in a pleasing manner.

The Arrangement of the Boxes Showing the Path of the Light Rays through the Water

A still better effect can be obtained by passing colored plates between the lens F and the window B. A glass disk with sectors of different colors may be revolved by any source of power, such as a small electric motor or even a waterwheel turned by the flowing water.

Two or three streams of water flowing in different colors make a very pretty display and may be produced by using two or more boxes made up in the same manner. The apparatus should be concealed and nothing but the box end or tube with the flowing water shown.—Contributed by Grant Linton, Whitby, Ont.

Strainer for a Milk Pail

Even though a milker may be careful, small particles of dirt, hairs, etc., will fall into the milk pail. It is true that the milk is strained afterward, but a large percentage of the dirt dissolves and passes through the strainer along with the milk. The best plan to prevent this dirt from falling into the milk is to put a piece of cheesecloth over the pail opening, securing it there by slipping an open wire ring, A, over the rim. The milk will readily pass through the cloth without spattering.—Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

Baking Bread in Hot Sand

A driving crew on the river wanted to move camp, but the cook objected as he had started to bake. One of the party suggested using a modified form of the method of baking in vogue more than a century ago, which was to place the dough in the hot earth where a fire had been burning. So, to help the cook out, a barrel was sawed in half and the bread, after being properly protected, was placed in each half barrel and covered with hot sand. Two of the men carried the half barrels on their backs. When the new camp was reached the bread was done.—Contributed by F. B. Ripley, Eau Claire, Wis.

How to Make Small Cams

Channels of the Cams Formed with Strips of Brass Soldered to the Drum or Disk

In making models of machinery or toy machines, cams are very often required. A simple way of making these is to lay out the cam plate, or drum, and then bend pieces of brass to the correct shape and solder them in place, whereupon they may be smoothed up with a file or scraper. A cam of this sort on a drum is shown in the sketch at A, and on a faceplate, at B. The method is not quite as accurate as milling, but answers the purpose in most cases.—Contributed by Chas. Hattenberger, Buffalo, N. Y.

Display Holder for Coins

Two Pieces of Glass Inclosing between Them Coins of the Same Size and Thickness

If the luster of coins fresh from the mint is to be preserved, they must be immediately placed so as to be protected against contact with the hands. A good holder that will display both sides of a coin can be made of two pieces of glass, BB, between which is placed a cardboard cut as shown at A. The cardboard should be about the same thickness as the coins. The glass may be framed by using strips of wood rabbeted to receive the edges of both pieces; or their edges may be bound with passe-partout tape. Even when a frame is used, it is best to bind the edges as this will prevent tarnish from the air. Old negative glass is suitable for making the holder.—Contributed by R. B. Cole, New Haven, Conn.

Holder for Skates while Sharpening

The base of the holder is cut from a board and should be about 3 in. longer than the skate. Two clamps are cut as shown at A, from metal of sufficient thickness to hold the skate firmly, then bent to shape and attached to the baseboard with bolts having wing nuts, as shown at B and C.

The Holder Provides a Way to Grind a Slight Curve in the Edge of a Skate Blade

One edge of the board is provided with two pins, D and E, solidly fastened, which are of sufficient height to bring the center of the blade on a level with the grinder axle. An adjusting screw, F, is provided for the grinder base to adjust the skate blade accurately. The support G is for use on baseboards where skates with strap heels, H, are to be sharpened. The shape of the clamp for this support is shown at J.

When the skate is securely clamped to the base the blade can be easily "hollow ground" or given a slight curve on the edge.—Contributed by C. G. Smith, Brooklyn, N. Y.

A Homemade Direct-View Finder for Cameras

Every hand camera and most of the tripod cameras are equipped with finders of one type or another, and usually one in which the image of the field is reflected upward on a small ground glass—being, in fact, a miniature camera obscura. The later and generally more approved style of finder has a small concave lens conveniently set on the outer edge of the camera. When this direct-vision type of finder is used, the camera is held so that the finder is at the height of the eye, a condition that is particularly desirable. When in a crowd, of course, the professional and many amateurs are familiar with the method of holding the camera inverted over the head and looking up into the finder to determine the range of the field. Even this method is inconvenient, often impractical.

The up-to-date newspaper photographer insists on having his camera equipped with direct finders, as it saves him much trouble and many failures. Anyone with a little ingenuity can change one of the old-type finders into a combination device, either direct or indirect. The sketches are self-explanatory, but it may be said that Fig. 1 represents a box camera with a regulation finder set in one corner of the box. To make it a direct finder, a small brass hinge is used. Cut off part of one wing, leaving a stub just long enough to be attached to the front of the camera directly above the lens of the finder and so as not to interfere with it, and high enough to permit the other wing to be turned down on the ground glass, with space allowed for the thin glass mirror A, that is to be glued to the under side of the long wing. The joint of the hinge should work quite stiffly in order to keep it from jarring out of any position in which it may be set.

Two Types of Ordinary View Finders and Methods of Converting Them into Direct-View Finders

If the wing is turned upward at an angle of 45 deg., the finder can be used as a direct-vision instrument when held at the height of the eyes. The image reflected from the small mirror is inverted, but this is no disadvantage to the photographer. The small pocket mirror given out for advertising purposes serves very well for making the reflecting mirror.

The finder shown in Fig. 2 is another very common kind, and one that is readily converted into the direct type by inserting a close-fitting mirror, B, on the inside of the shield to be used as a reflector of the finder image. If the mirror is too thick, it may interfere with the closing of the shield, though in many cases this is not essential, but if it should be necessary to close down the shield in order to fold the camera, it can usually be readjusted to accommodate the mirror.

A Non-Rolling Spool

Bend a piece of wire in the shape shown in the illustration and attach it to a spool of thread. The ends of the wire should clamp the spool slightly and the loop in the wire will keep it from rolling. Place the end of the thread through the loop in the wire and it will not become tangled.—Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

How to Make a Cartridge Belt

Procure a leather belt, about 2-1/2 in. wide and long enough to reach about the waist, also a piece of leather, 1 in. wide and twice as long as the belt. Attach a buckle to one end of the belt and rivet one end of the narrow piece to the belt near the buckle. Cut two slits in the belt, a distance apart equal to the diameter of the cartridge. Pass the narrow leather piece through one slit and back through the other, thus forming a loop on the belt to receive a cartridge. About 1/4 in. from the first loop form another by cutting two more slits and passing the leather through them as described, and so on, until the belt has loops along its whole length.

Two Pieces of Leather of Different Widths Forming a Belt for Holding Cartridges

The end of the narrow leather can be riveted to the belt or used in the buckle as desired, the latter way providing an adjustment for cartridges of different sizes.—Contributed by Robert Pound, Lavina, Mont.

Removing Iodine Stains

A good way to chemically remove iodine stains from the hands or linen is to wash the stains in a strong solution of hyposulphite of sodium, known as "hypo," which is procurable at any photographic-supply dealer's or drug store.

There is no danger of using too strong a solution, but the best results are obtained with a mixture of 1 oz. of hypo to 2 oz. of water.

Bed-Cover Fasteners

The arrangement shown in the sketch is easily made and will keep the bed covers in place. The covers are provided with eyelets, either sewed, A, or brass eyelets, B, 6 or 8 in. apart along the edge. A wood strip, C, 3 by 1-1/2 in., is cut as long as the width of the bed and fastened to the frame with wire, bolts, or wedges. Screwhooks, about 1-1/4 in. long, are turned into the strip so that they will match with the eyelets placed in the covers. Thus the covers will be kept in place when the bed is occupied, and the bed is also easily made up.—Contributed by Warren E. Crane, Cleveland, O.

The Hooks Prevent the Covers from Slipping Off the Sleeper and Keep Them Straight on the Bed

Collar Fasteners

An excellent fastener to be used on soft collars can be assembled from an ordinary paper fastener and two shoe buttons of the desired color. This device keeps the soft collar in good shape at the front, and serves the purpose just as well as a more expensive collar fastener. The illustration shows how it is used.—Contributed by B. E. Ahlport, Oakland, Cal.

Operating a Bathroom Light Automatically

A device for automatically turning an electric light on and off when entering and leaving the room is illustrated in the sketch. A pull-chain lamp socket is placed upon the wall or ceiling, and is connected to a screw hook in the door by a cord and several rubber bands, as shown.

Operating the Electric Lamp Switch or Key by the Opening of the Door

When the door is opened, the lamp is lit, and when leaving the room the opening of the door again turns it out. The hook should be placed quite close to the edge of the door, to reduce the length of the movement, and even then it is too much for the length of the pull required to operate the switch, hence the need of the rubber bands.

The lamp chain pulls out just 1 in., and consequently the lamp is lit when the door is opened part way; and swinging the door farther only stretches the rubber. This is an advantage, however, because the lamp is sure to light regardless of the swing of the door. If no rubber were used, the door would have to open just a certain distance each time.

If the cord is connected to the hook with a loop or a ring, it may be easily disconnected during the day when not needed. A light coil spring may be used in place of the rubbers.—Contributed by C. M. Rogers, Ann Arbor, Michigan.

A Finger-Ring Trick

A coin soldered to some inexpensive ring, or a piece of brass cut from tubing, will make an interesting surprise coin for friends. The ring when placed on the middle finger with the coin in the palm makes the trick complete. Ask some one if he has ever seen such a coin, or say it is a very old one, as the date is almost worn away. He will try to pick it up, but will find it fast to the finger.—Contributed by Wm. Jenkins, New York City.

Preventing Marks from Basting Threads on Wool

In making up woolen garments it is necessary to press portions of them before removing the basting threads. Sometimes the marks of the basting threads show after the pressing. This can be avoided by using silk thread for basting instead of the usual cotton thread. The silk thread will not leave any marks.—Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Gainesville, Ga.

Cranberries will keep fresh for weeks if placed in water in a cool place.

Skating Merry-Go-Round
By Henry Burich

After once making and using the ice merry-go-round as illustrated, no pond will be complete unless it has one or more of these devices. To construct an amusement device of this kind, select a good pole that will reach to the bottom of the pond. The measurement can be obtained by cutting a hole in the ice at the desired place and dropping in a line weighted on one end. A sufficient length of the pole should be driven into the bottom of the pond to make it solid and allow the upper end to project above the surface of the ice at least 4 feet.

A turning crosspiece for the upper end of the pole is made as follows: First prepare the end of the pole by sawing it off level, then cutting off the bark and making it round for a metal ring which should be driven on tightly. A pin, about 3/4 in. in diameter, is then driven into a hole bored in the end of the pole. The crosspiece is made of 2 by 6-in. material, at least 18 ft. long. A hole is bored in the center to receive the pin in the pole end.

Skaters Holding the Rope Ends are Drawn Around in a Circle Rapidly by the Revolving Crosspiece, Turned near the Center by Other Skaters

The crosspiece is easily pushed around the pole and the faster it goes the closer to the center the pushers can travel. Ropes can be tied to the ends of the crosspiece for the skaters to hold on to as they are propelled around in a circle.

Relieving Air Pressure When Closing Record Boxes

The ordinary pasteboard boxes for holding phonograph records are very hard to close, due to the air pressure on the inside. I overcome this difficulty by making three small holes in the cover with a pin.—Contributed by Robert Bandul, New Orleans, La.

A Steering Sled

The Extra Runner in Front is Pivoted, and When Turned, Guides the Sled

An ordinary hand sled can be easily converted into a sled that can be guided like a bobsled by the addition of one extra runner. To attach this runner, a piece of wood is fastened to the under side and in the center at the front end of the sled top. A runner with a crosspiece on top is pivoted to the extending wood piece, which should be of a length to make the position comfortable when the coaster, sitting on the sled top, has his feet on the ends of the crosspiece. Careful measurements should be made to have the lower edge of the runner on a level with or a little lower than the sled runners.

To Hold a Straw Hat on the Head

The Rubber Bands are Linked Like a Lock Stitch and Fastened in the Band

On windy days it is almost impossible to make a straw hat stay on the head. To avoid this trouble, place rubber bands through the sweatband. Before inserting, make them into loops, as shown, and draw enough to be comfortable to the head. This device will save a good many steps when the wind blows.—Contributed by T. D. Hall, Fort Worth, Texas.

Carrying Fishhooks in a Cane Pole

The person using a cane pole for fishing can easily provide a place for the hooks and sinkers in the first large joint of the pole. Cut the cane off just above the first large joint, and it will leave a space, 4 or 5 in. long, which can be used for the hooks and sinkers. A cork is fitted in the end, to hold them in place.—Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

Drying Small Laundered Articles

Where mechanical drying is not in use it takes considerable time to hang out a number of handkerchiefs, laces, collars, etc., and very often the wind will blow away many of them. The task of drying these articles is made light by using a bag of mosquito netting with the articles placed in it and hung on a line. The air can pass through the netting and when the articles are dry it does not take long to take them out.—Contributed by Edward P. Braun, Philadelphia, Pa.

Decorative Wood Panels

Procure an unplaned board that is deeply scored by the teeth of the saw and mark an outline of the desired figure on its surface. Sandpaper the background lightly, cut in a moon and smooth down the tree trunks. The background can be smoothed with a sharp chisel, or large portions planed, but in all cases leave the foliage rough.

Finish the surfaces with oils or stains, applying colors to suit the parts; a piece of dried red cedar, oiled, will produce a warm red, and a green red cedar, oiled, becomes soft yellow, each producing a very pretty effect. These panels offer unlimited opportunity for originality in design and color finishing of different woods.—Contributed by Mrs. Wm. Donovan, Seattle, Wash.

The Designs are Worked into the Unfinished Surface of Boards with Sandpaper, Sharp Chisels and a Plane, and Then Colored with Dyes to Produce the Desired Effect

Fishing-Rod Making and Angling
By Stillman Taylor
Part I—A One-Piece Casting Rod

The pleasures of outdoor life are most keenly enjoyed by those sportsmen who are familiar with all the little tricks—the "ins and outs"—of the open. It is the active participation in any chosen sport which makes the sport well worth while, for the enjoyment gleaned from little journeys to forest and stream largely rests with the outer's own knowledge of his sport. Not all of the fun of fishing lies in the catching of the fish, since the satisfaction which comes through handling a well-balanced rod and tackle must be reckoned the chief contributor to the outing. In other words, the pleasures of fishing do not depend so much upon the number of fish caught, as the manner in which the person fishes for them. The rod is naturally the first and important consideration in the angler's kit, and it is the purpose of these articles to set forth, at first, a few hints which my own long experience leads me to think may be of some assistance to those anglers who enjoy making and repairing their own rods and tackle, to be followed, later, by some suggestions on the art of angling generally. The hints given are merely my own methods, and while they may not be the best way of accomplishing the desired end, a good fishing rod may be constructed. Like the majority of amateurs, I have achieved the desired results with a few common tools, namely, a saw, plane, jackknife, file, and sandpaper. These simple tools are really all that is needed to turn out a serviceable and well-finished rod of excellent action.

Kind of Material

The great elasticity and durability of the split-cane or split-bamboo rod cannot be easily disputed. The handmade split bamboo is unquestionably the best rod for every kind of fishing, but it is also the most expensive and the most difficult material for the amateur to work. In making the first rod or two, the beginner will be better satisfied with the results in making a good solid-wood rod. Of course, glued-up split-bamboo butts, joints, and tip stock may be purchased, and if the angler is determined to have only bamboo, it is advisable to purchase these built-up sections rather than to risk certain failure by attempting to glue the cane. However, there are several good woods particularly well adapted for rod making, and while slightly inferior to the finest bamboo in elasticity and spring, the carefully made solid-wood rod is good enough for any angler and will probably suit the average fisherman as well as any rod that can be purchased.

Bethabara, or washaba, a native wood of British Guinea, makes a fine rod, but it is a heavy wood, very hard, and for this reason is perhaps less desirable than all other woods. With the single exception of snakewood it is the heaviest wood for rod making and is only used for short bait-casting rods. Possessing considerable strength Bethabara can be worked quite slender, and a 5-ft. casting tip can be safely made of 5 oz. weight.

Greenheart, a South American wood, is popular alike with manufacturers and amateur rod makers, and 90 per-cent of the better class of solid-wood rods are made of this material. It resembles Bethabara in color, but is lighter in weight, although it apparently possesses about the same strength and elasticity. In point of fact, there is little, if any, choice between these woods, and providing sound and well-selected wood is used, the merits of a rod made of Bethabara or greenheart are more likely to be due to the careful workmanship of the maker than to the variety of the wood used.

Dagame, or dagama, a native of the forests of Cuba, is in many respects the ideal material for rod making, as it has strength and elasticity. This wood is straight-grained and free from knots, which makes it easily worked; it polishes well and is durable. While there is always more or less difficulty about procuring first-class Bethabara and greenheart, dagame of good quality is easily obtained.

Lancewood is much used in turning out the cheaper grades of fishing rods, but it is somewhat soft and has a marked tendency to take set under the strain of fishing and warp out of shape. It is less expensive than the other woods, and while it has a straight and even grain, there are numerous small knots present which make this material less satisfactory to work than the other woods. For heavy sea rods, lancewood may serve the purpose fairly well, but for the smaller fishing tools this material is inferior to Bethabara, greenheart, and dagame. Other woods are often used, and while a good rod may be frequently made from almost any of them, the three mentioned are held in the highest esteem by the angling fraternity. For the first rod, the amateur will make no mistake in selecting dagame, whether the slender fly rod or the more easily constructed short bait-casting tool is to be made.

The Necessary Tools

The construction of a thoroughly well-made and nicely balanced rod is more a matter of careful work than outfit, but a few suitable tools will greatly facilitate the labor. A good firm workbench, or table, 4 ft. or more in length, will be needed. A regulation bench vise will come in handy, but one of the small iron vises will do very well. A couple of iron planes, one of medium size for rough planing-up work, and a small 4-in. block plane for finishing, will be required. As the cutters of the planes must be kept as sharp as possible to do good work, a small oilstone—preferably one in a wood case with cover to keep out dust—will be needed; a coarse single-cut mill file about 16 in. long; a few sheets of No. 1 and No. 0 sandpaper; a sheet or two of fine emery cloth; a small thin "back" or other saw, and a steel cabinet scraper.

Two Tools for Gauging the Diameter of the Rods, and a Homemade Scraper (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)

A caliper of some kind is a necessity, and while the best is a micrometer, Fig. 1, registering to a thousandth part of an inch, as well as indicating 8ths, 16ths, 32ds, and 64ths, this tool is somewhat expensive, but a very good caliper may be had in the sliding-arm type, Fig. 2, with the scale graduated to 64ths and taking work up to 2 in. in diameter. Cheaper measuring gauges are to be had in plenty, but as the brass and boxwood scales are provided only with coarse graduations, the better quality of mechanics' tools will give better satisfaction.

(Fig. 4)

The set of grooved planes used by the professional rod makers are rather expensive, although they are most convenient for quickly rounding up the rod to the desired diameter. However, the beginner may dispense with the planes by making the tool illustrated in Fig. 3. To make this handy little tool purchase a steel wood scraper, such as cabinetmakers use, and file a series of grooves along the edges with a round file. File at right angles to the steel, finishing up with a finer file to give a sharp cutting edge. The tool thus made is very handy for scraping the rod after it has been roughly rounded with the plane. Its use will be mentioned later on in the description.

Five-Foot Bait-Casting Rod

The short one-piece bait-casting rod with but one ferrule is the easiest rod to make, and for this reason the beginner will do well to select this popular type for the first attempt. As the total length of the rod is to measure 5 ft., exclusive of the agate tip, the wood should be 1 or 2 in. longer to allow for cutting down to 60 inches.

Having selected a good strip of dagame, 5/8 in. square, run the plane along each side and from both ends. This will determine the direction in which the grain runs. Drill two holes at the end decided upon for the butt, spacing them about 1/4 in. from the end, as shown in Fig. 4. Drive a stout brad in the corner of the bench top and hook the butt end over the nail. By rigging the stick up in this manner it will be securely held, and planing may be done with the grain with greater ease and accuracy than when the end of the stick is butted up against a cleat nailed to the bench top.

The wood should be planed straight and true from end to end and calipered until it is 1/2 in. square. It may appear crooked, but this need not trouble one at this stage of the work, since it may be made perfectly straight later on. Overlook any kinks, and do not attempt to straighten the stick by planing more from one side than the other. The chief thing to be done is to fashion a square stick, and when the caliper shows the approximate diameter, draw crosslines at the ends to find the center.

The length of the hand grasp should be marked out. If a double grasp is wanted, allow 12 in. from the butt end. This will afford an 11-in. hand grasp after sawing off the end in which the holes were drilled. For a single hand grasp make an allowance of 11 in. However, the double grasp—with cork above and below the reel seat—is preferred by most anglers because it affords a better grip for the hand when reeling in the line. Mark the hand-grasp distance by running a knife mark around the rod 12 in. from the butt end.

Diagram or Layout for a One-Piece Bait-Casting Rod, Showing Calipered Dimensions for Each Six Inches of Length. A Paper Pattern of Any Rod may be Drawn Up, Providing the Amateur Rod Maker Has a Rod to Use for a Pattern, or Possesses the Exact Diameter of the Rod at Intervals of Six Inches along Its Length (Fig. 5)

Lay out a diagram showing the full length of the rod by placing a strip of paper—the unprinted back of a strip of wall paper is just the thing—on the bench and drawing two lines from the diameter of the butt to that of the tip. While the caliber of casting rods differs somewhat, the dimensions given will suit the average angler, and I would advise the beginner to make the rod to these measurements. For the butt, draw a line, exactly 1/2 in. long, across the paper and from the center of this line run a straight pencil mark at right angles to the tip end, or 60 in. distant, at which point another crossline is drawn, exactly 1/8 in. long, to represent the diameter. Connect the ends of these two crosslines to make a long tapering form. Divide this pattern into eight equal parts, beginning at 12 in. from the butt end, marking a crossline at every 6 in. This layout is shown exaggerated in Fig. 5. If it is desired to copy a certain rod, find the diameter at the several 6-in. stations with the caliper and write them down at the corresponding sections of the paper diagram. However, if a splendid all-around casting rod is desired, it is perfectly safe to follow the dimensions given in Fig. 5, which show the manner of dividing the paper pattern into the equal parts and the final diameter of the rod at each 6-in. station, or line.

Gauge Made of Sheet Brass Having Slots Corresponding in Length and Width with the Caliper-Layout Measurements (Fig. 6)

Procure a small strip of thin brass, or zinc, and file nine slots on one edge to correspond in diameter with the width of the horizontal lines which indicate the diameter of the rod on the pattern. This piece is shown in Fig. 6. By making use of the pattern and the brass gauge, the rod may be given the desired taper and the work will proceed more quickly than if the caliper is alone relied upon to repeatedly check up the work.

When a good layout of the work is thus made, the next step is to carefully plane the stick so that it will be evenly tapered in the square. Plane with the grain and from the butt toward the tip end, and make frequent tests with caliper and gauge, noting the diameter every 6 in. Mark all the thick spots with a pencil, and plane lightly to reduce the wood to the proper diameter. Reduce the stick in this manner until all sides have an even taper from the butt to the tip. The stick should now be perfectly square with a nice, even taper. Test it by resting the tip end on the floor and bending it from the butt end. Note the arch it takes and see if it resumes its original shape when the pressure is released. If it does, the elasticity of the material is as it should be, but if it remains bent or takes "set," the wood is very likely to be imperfectly seasoned and the rod should be hung up in a warm closet, or near the kitchen stove, for a few weeks, to season.

To facilitate the work of planing the stick to shape, a length of pine board with a groove in one edge will be found handy. A 5-ft. length of the ordinary tongue-and-groove board, about 1 in. thick, will be just the thing. As the tip of the rod is smaller than the butt, plane the groove in the board to make it gradually shallower to correspond to the taper of the rod. Nail this board, with the groove uppermost, to the edge of the workbench, and place the rod in the groove with one of the square corners up, which can be easily taken off with the finely set plane. Plane off the other three corners in a like manner, transforming the square stick into one of octagon form. This part of the work should be carefully done, and the stick frequently calipered at each 6-in. mark, to obtain the proper taper. It is important to make each of the eight sides as nearly uniform as the caliper and eye can do it. Set the cutter of the small plane very fine, lay the strip in the groove and plane off the corner the full length of the stick, then turn another corner uppermost and plane it off, and so on, until the stick is almost round and tapering gradually from the mark of the hand grasp to the tip.

To make the rod perfectly round, use the steel scraper in which the grooves were filed and scrape the whole rod to remove any flat or uneven spots, and finish up by sandpapering it down smooth.

The action of the rod differs with the material used, and in trying out the action, it is well to tie on the tip and guides and affix the reel by a string in order to try a few casts. If the action seems about right, give the rod a final smoothing down with No. 0 sandpaper.

The Four Different Types of Hand Grasps Are a Wood Sleeve Bored to Fit the Butt of the Rod; the Built-Up Cork over a Wood Sleeve; a Cane-Wound Grasp, and the Double Cord-Wound Grasps with a Reel Seat between Them (Fig. 7)

For the hand grasp nothing is so good as solid cork, and while hand grasps may be purchased assembled, it is a simple matter to make them. In Fig. 7 are shown four kinds of handles, namely, a wood sleeve, or core, A, bored to fit the butt of the rod and shaped for winding the fishing cord; a built-up cork grasp, B, made by cementing cork washers over a wood sleeve, or directly to the butt of the rod; a cane-wound grip, C, mostly used for salt-water fishing, and the double-wound grip, D, made in one piece, then sawed apart in the center, the forward grip being glued in place after the reel seat is in position.

To make a grip, select a number of cork washers, which may be obtained from dealers in the wholesale drug trade, or from any large fishing-tackle dealer. Make a tool for cutting a hole in their centers from a piece of tubing, or an old ferrule of the required diameter, by filing one edge sharp, then covering the other end with several thicknesses of cloth. Turn this tube around in the cork like a wad cutter. If the cutter is sharp, a nice clean cut will result, but the opposite will likely occur if an attempt is made to hammer the tube through the cork.

Having cut the butt end of the rod off square, about 1 in. from the end, or enough to remove the holes, smear a little hot glue on the end, drop a cork washer over the tip of the rod and work it down to the butt. Cut another cork, give the first one a coat of glue, slip the former over the tip and press the two together, and so on, until about 10 corks have been glued together in position. This will give a hand grasp a trifle over 5 in. long.

The Corks Glued in Place on the Butt and the Wood Sleeve, or Reel-Seat Core, Ready to Slide Down and Glue in Position (Fig. 8)

A sleeve will be needed for the reel seat to slip over, and a soft-wood core of this sort can be purchased from any dealer in rod-making materials, or it can be made at home. For the material procure a piece of white pine, about 3/4 in. in diameter and 5 in. long. A section sawed from a discarded curtain roller will serve the purpose well. Bore a 15/32-in. hole through the piece and plane down the outside until it slips inside the reel seat. It should be well made and a good fit, and one end tapered to fit the taper of the reel seat, while the opposite end should be about 1/4 in. shorter than the reel seat. Slide this wood sleeve down the rod, as shown in Fig. 8, coat the rod and the upper part of the last cork with glue and force the sleeve tightly in place. A day or two should be allowed for the glue to set and thoroughly dry, before giving the hand grasp the final touches.

If a lathe is at hand, the hand grasp may be turned to any desired shape, but most anglers prefer a cylindrical-shaped grip, leaving the top cork untrimmed to form a kind of shoulder when the metal reel seat is pressed into the cork. If corks of 1-1/4-in. diameter are purchased, but little trimming will be necessary to work the hand grasp down to 1-1/16 in. in diameter. This size seems to fit the average hand about right. The lower corks will need a little trimming to fit the taper of the butt cap so that it may fit snugly in place. Cement the butt cap in place by heating the cap moderately hot, then rub a little of the melted ferrule cement inside the cap, and force it over the cork butt. When the cement has hardened, drive a small brass pin or brad through the cap, and file the ends off flush with the metal surface. All the guides, ferrules, and reel seat are shown in Fig. 9.

The regulation metal reel seat is about 4-1/2 in. long, and in fitting it to the old type of bait rod, the covered hood is affixed to the upper end of the reel seat. This arrangement is satisfactory enough for the 9-ft. bait rod, but it is rather awkward in fitting it to the short bait-casting rod, as with the hood at the upper end the reel is pushed so far forward that it leaves 1 in. or more of the reel seat exposed, and the hand must grip this smooth metal instead of the cork. To avoid this, it is best to cut the reel seat down to 3-7/8 in. and affix the reel seat to the rod with the hood at the lower end near the hand. For a single hand grasp, a tapered winding check will be needed to make a neat finish and this should be ordered of the correct diameter to fit the reel seat at the lower end and the diameter of the rod at the other. In the double hand grasp the winding check is used to finish off the upper end of the cork, which is tapering to fit the rod at this point.

In assembling the reel seat, push it with the hooded end well down and work it into the cork to make a tight waterproof joint. Push the reel seat up the rod, coat the sleeve with cement and push the reel seat home. Drive a small pin through the hooded end and reel seat to make the whole rigid. This pin should not be driven through the rod or it will weaken it at this point. Just let it enter the wood a short distance to prevent the reel seat from turning.

The upper or double grasp is fashioned after the reel seat is in position, and the corks are cemented on and pushed tightly together in the same manner as used in forming the lower grasp. The first cork should be pressed tightly against the upper end of the reel seat and turned about so that the metal may enter the cork and form a tight joint. As many corks as are required to form a grip of proper length are in turn cemented to each other and the rod. After the glue has become dry, the cork may be worked down and tapered to make a smooth, swelled grasp. The winding check is now cemented on, to make a neat finish between the upper grip and the rod.

Before affixing the guides, go over the rod with fine sandpaper, then wet the wood to raise the grain, and repeat this operation, using old sandpaper. If an extra-fine polish is wanted, rub it down with powdered pumice and oil, or rottenstone and oil, and finish off with an oiled rag.

To fit the agate tip, file down the end of the rod with a fine-cut file until it is a good fit in the metal tube. Melt a little of the ferrule cement and smear a little on the tip of the rod, then push the agate down in place.

Spar varnish is often used to protect the rod, but extra-light coach varnish gives a better gloss, and it is as durable and waterproof as any varnish. It is only necessary to purchase a quarter pint of the varnish, as a very small quantity is used. The final varnishing is, of course, done after the rod has been wound and the guides are permanently whipped in position. However, it is an excellent idea to fill the pores of the wood by rubbing it over with a cloth saturated in the varnish before the silk whippings are put on. Merely fill the cells of the wood and wipe off all surplus, leaving the rod clean and smooth.

The guides may now be fastened in place, and for the 5-ft. rod, but two of them are necessary. The first guide should be placed 19-1/2 in. from the metal taper which finishes off the upper hand grasp, and the second guide spaced 15-1/2 in. from the first. By spacing the guides in this manner, the line will run through them with the least possible friction.

Winding, or Whipping, the Rod

Before whipping on the guides, take a fine file and round off the sharp edges of the base to prevent the possibility of the silk being cut. Measure off the required distances at which the guides are to be affixed, and fasten them in position by winding with a few turns of common thread. Ordinary silk of No. A size may be used, but No. 00 is the best for small rods. Most anglers agree that the size of the silk to use for the whippings should be in proportion to the size of the rod—heavy silk for the heavy rod, and fine silk for the small rod. Size A is the finest silk commonly stocked in the stores, but one or more spools of No. 00 and No. 0 may be ordered from any large dealer in fishing tackle. As a rule, size 0 gives a more workmanlike finish to the butt and joints of fly and bait rods, while No. 00 is about right to use for winding the tips. In fact, all rods weighing up to 6 oz. may be whipped with No. 00 size.

The Mountings Used on a Bait-Casting Rod Consist of a Reel Seat, Butt Cap, Taper Sleeve, Narrow Agate Guide, Agate Offset Top, One Ring Guide, and a Welted, Shouldered Ferrule (Fig. 9)

In whipping the rod, the so-called invisible knot is used. Begin the whipping, as shown at E, Fig. 10, by tucking the end under the first coil and holding it with the left thumb. The spool of silk is held in the right hand and the rod is turned to the left, sufficient tension being kept on the silk so that it can be evenly coiled with each strand tightly against the other. A loop of silk, some 4 in. long, is well waxed and placed so that its end will project a short distance beyond the last coil which finishes the whipping. This detail is shown at F. In whipping on guides, begin the whipping at the base and work over the pointed end of the flange, winding on sufficient silk to extend about 1/8 in. beyond the pointed flange of the guide base. When the last coil is made, cut off the thread from the spool and tuck the end under the whipping by pulling on the ends of the waxed loop, as shown at G. Cut off the ends neatly with a sharp knife.

Both Ends of the Silk Thread are Placed under the Winding to Form an Invisible Knot (Fig. 10)

For colors, bright red and a medium shade of apple green are the best, since these colors keep their original tint after varnishing, and are less likely to fade than the more delicate shades. Red finished off with a narrow circle of green always looks well, and red with yellow is likewise a good combination. Narrow windings look much better than wide whippings, and a dozen turns make about as wide a winding as the angler desires. For edgings, three or four turns of silk are about right, and these should be put on after the wider windings have been whipped on and in the same manner, although it is best to tuck the ends of the edging beneath the wider winding when pulling the end through to make the invisible knot.

Varnishing the Rod

After winding the rod, see that all fuzzy ends are neatly clipped off, then go over the silk windings with a coat of shellac. The shellac can be made by dissolving a little white shellac in grain alcohol. Warm the shellac and apply it with a small camel's-hair brush, giving the silk only two light coats. Allow the rod to stand a couple of days for the shellac to become thoroughly dry.

A small camel's-hair brush will be required for the varnishing—one about 1/2 in. wide will do. If the varnishing is to be done out of doors, a clear and warm day should be selected, and the can of coach varnish should be placed in a pot of hot water for five minutes, so that the varnish will spread evenly. A temperature of about 75 deg. is best for this work, as the varnish will not spread if cold or in a cold place. The varnish should be evenly brushed on, and care taken that no spots are left untouched. Hang up by the tip to dry in a room free from dust. While the varnish will set in four or five hours, it is a good plan to allow three days for drying between coats. Two coats will suffice to protect the rod, but as coach varnish, properly applied, is rather thin in body, three coats will give complete protection to the wood.

The materials required for this rod are,

• 1 dagame or greenheart stick, 5 ft. long and 5/8 in. square;
• 1 reel seat with straight hood, 3/4 in.;
• 1 butt cap, 1 in.; 1 taper, small end 15/32 in.;
• 1 offset, or angle, agate top, 3/32 in., and 2 narrow agate guides, 1/2 in., all in German silver;
• 2 doz. corks, 1-1/4 by 1-1/8 in.,
• and two 50-yd. spools of silk, red and green, 00 size.

Automatic Watering System for Poultry Yards

Where a large number of poultry is cared for, the annoyance and attention necessary to furnish a constant water supply can be overcome by using the system shown in the illustration. For this purpose a storage tank must be provided. This may be some old toilet flush tank, or any open reservoir that will hold sufficient water to keep all the drinking pans supplied. A float is provided and connected with a stop valve, so that when the float drops below a certain level, the valve will be turned open, and a fresh supply of water will enter the storage tank, thereby again raising the float and closing the valve.

Simple Arrangement of a Flush Tank in Connection with a System of Pipes to Supply One or More Pans of Water for the Poultry Yard

Each drinking pan should be about 10 in. in diameter by 4 in. deep, and is drilled for a 7/8-in. hole to fit a 1/2-in. pipe. At the pan end, the pipe is threaded so that a lock nut and leather washer can be attached on each side of the pan bottom, to provide a watertight joint; at the other end, the pipe is screwed into a tee in the 1/2-in. main line which connects with the storage tank.

In using the system, sufficient water is run into the tank to fill the pans about three-quarters full. The float may then be adjusted to a shut-off position for the inlet valve. All pans are automatically kept at one level, even though several may be used considerably more than others. When the general water level has dropped sufficiently, the float, dropping with it, will open the stop valve, and cause the water to enter the tank and pans until the original level is again restored.—Contributed by D. E. Hall, Hadlyme, Connecticut.

Changing Pip on a Card

Cut out the center pip on the five-spot of spades with a sharp knife. Cut a slot centrally in another card, about 3/8 in. wide and 1-1/4 in. long. Glue the surfaces of both cards together near the edges to form a pocket for a slide, which is cut from another card and has one-half of its surface colored black. A drop of sealing wax attached to the back of the sliding part, so that it projects through the slot, provides a means of moving the slide in the pocket. A lightning change can be made from a five-spot to a four-spot while swinging the card.

To Make a Special Envelope

Any size of envelope for mailing special papers or documents can be made as follows: All envelopes are of the same shape as shown in Fig. 1; the size for the papers to be inclosed is represented by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. The projections A are coated with paste, and the flap B is folded over them. The envelope is then ready for the inclosure. The flap C is pasted and folded over as with an ordinary envelope.—Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York City.

Various Stages in the Forming of an Envelope to Make Any Size for Special Papers (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4)

Automatically Extinguishing a Candle

Candles can be easily fitted with attachments to extinguish the light at a set time. To determine the length of time, it is necessary to mark a candle of the size used and time how long a certain length of it will burn. Then it is sufficient to suspend a small metal dome, or cap, to which a string is attached, directly over the flame, and run the opposite end of the string over nails or through screw eyes, so that it can be tied around the candle such a distance from the flame end, that the part between the flame and the string will be consumed in the time desired for the light to burn. When this point is reached, the string slips off the candle, and the cap drops on the flame.

Clothespin Newspaper Holder

A simple newspaper holder can be made by cutting away a portion of one side of an ordinary clothespin, drilling a hole through the thick end for a screw or nail, and fastening it in place where desired. Another way is to split off one side of a clothespin and cut the bottom of the remaining part tapering as shown; then drill a hole to avoid splitting the piece and fasten in a convenient place.—Contributed by J. P. Rupp, Norwalk, O.

Shaping a Clothespin Head and Fastening It to a Wall Provides a Holder for Newspapers

Holder for a Dory Rudder

The rudder of a sailing dory or rowboat often comes off in rough water, and in order to keep it in place and yet have it easily detachable at will, the following method is useful: Procure a 10-in. length of soft-iron rod and bend one end of it into a loop large enough to fit around the rudder pin after the latter is inserted in the eyelet. Insert screws at A, B and C, letting them project about 1/2 in. from the surface. Bend the rod at D and A in the shape shown, and with a little adjustment it will easily snap into position. It will prevent the rudder from riding up out of the eyelets, but can be detached instantly. The device should be applied to the upper pin so as to be within easy reach.—Contributed by B. A. Thresher, Lakeville, Connecticut.

The Loop on the Iron Rod Holds the Pin of the Rudder in the Eye

Trimming Photographs

In trimming small photograph prints I experienced some difficulty in getting them square, and I did not care to invest in a trimming board. By following a line drawn around the print with a triangle, it was impossible to make a perfect rectangle. In the place of a trimming board I now use a piece of glass cut a little smaller than the desired print. The edges of the glass are smoothed by filing or grinding them. In making a glass, be sure to have the corners cut at perfect right angles and the edges ground straight.

The glass is easily located over the print, and by holding the two tightly together the edges of the print can be trimmed with a pair of shears.—Contributed by E. Leslie McFarlane, Nashwaaksis, N. B.

A Metal Polish

A metal polish that is safe to use about the home is composed of 30 parts alcohol, 3 parts ammonia water, 45 parts water, 6-1/2 parts carbon tetrachloride, 8 parts kieselguhr, 4 parts white bole, and 8 parts of chalk. These substances can be purchased at a local drug store and should be mixed in the order named. Any grease on metal will be dissolved by this solution.—Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

The Making of a Rod Not Only Affords Much Pleasure, but the Rod can be Constructed as Desired

Fishing-Rod Making and Angling
By Stillman Taylor

Part II—Various Two and Three-Piece Rods

While the action of the one-piece rod is undeniably better than when the rod is made in two or three pieces, it is less compact to carry. To make a 5-ft. two-piece bait-casting rod, the same dimensions as given for the one-piece rod will make a very fine fishing tool. It is well to make two tips in view of a possible breakage. The rod may consist of two pieces of equal length, but a rod of better action is secured by making the butt section somewhat shorter with a relatively longer tip. By making the butt section about 23 in. long, exclusive of ferrule and butt cap, and the tip section 32-1/2 in. long, a splendid little rod is obtained which will fit any of the regulation rod cases of 35-in. length. To make a 6-1/2-oz. rod of this kind with a cork hand grasp, caliper it in the same manner as the one-piece rod, making the butt section 32-1/2 in. long, tapering from 15/32 in. at the upper end of the hand grasp to 19/64 in. at the ferrule. The tip is made 33 in. long, tapering from 17/64 in. to 7/64 in. By making the tip and butt to these lengths, both parts will be of equal length when the ferrules and the tops are added. The material list is as follows, the attachments being made of german silver:

• Dagame or greenheart butt, 5/8 in. by 3 ft. long;
• two tips 3/8 in. by 3 ft. long;
• one 3/4-in. reel seat with straight hood;
• one 1-in. butt cap;
• one taper, 15/32 in. at the small end;
• two 3/32-in. offset agate tops;
• two 1/2-in. narrow agate guides;
• two No. 1 size one-ring casting guides;
• one 17/64-in. welted and shouldered ferrule, with two closed-end centers, one for each tip;
• two dozen cork washers, 1-1/4 in. in diameter,
• and two spools of winding silk.

The three-piece rod should be made up to 6 ft. in length to secure the best action, but even if so made, the use of the extra ferrules makes the rod less resilient and elastic than the rod of one or two-piece construction. The best action is obtained only when the rod bends to a uniform curve, and since the ferrules cannot conform to this curve, or arc, the more joints incorporated in a rod, the less satisfactory it will be from an angling standpoint. Convenience in packing and carrying are the sole merits which the many-jointed rod possesses. Complete specifications for making a three-piece bait-casting rod, together with a material list, is as follows: A rod, about 5-1/2 ft. long with a single or double hand grasp made of cork, will weigh about 7 oz. Caliper the butt so that it will taper from 15/32 in to 11/32 in at the cap of the ferrule, making it 21-1/2 in. long. The middle joint is tapered from 21/64 in. to 15/64 in., and is 21-3/4 in. long. The tips are 21 in. long and are tapered from 13/64 in. to 7/64 in. Dagame or greenheart is used for the butt, joint, and tips, and german silver for the fittings. All pieces are 2 ft. long, the butt is 5/8 in., the joint and tips, 3/8 in.

• One 3/4-in. reel seat with straight hood;
• one 1-in. butt cap;
• one taper, small end 15/32 in.;
• one 21/64-in. welted and shouldered ferrule;
• one 15/64-in. welted and shouldered ferrule with two closed centers, one for each tip;
• two 3/32-in. offset agate tops;
• two 1/2-in. narrow agate guides;
• two No. 1 size one-ring casting guides;
• two dozen cork washers, and winding silk, size 00 or 0.

Fly Rods for Trout and Bass

Having made a good bait-casting rod, the amateur will find little trouble in making a rod with a number of joints, and no special instructions need be given, since the work of planing and smoothing up the wood, and finishing and mounting the rod, is the same as has been described in detail before. For fly fishing for trout, accuracy and delicacy are of more importance than length of cast, and the rod best suited to this phase of angling differs greatly from that used in bait casting. A stiff, heavy rod is entirely unsuited for fly casting, and while it is, of course, possible to make a rod too willowy for the sport, the amateur, working by rule of thumb, is more likely to err on the other side and make the fly rods of too stout a caliber. The idea is simply to help the amateur over the hard part by giving a list of dimensions of a representative trout and a bass fly rod. To make a 9-ft. trout fly rod, with a cork grasp having a length of 9 in. above the reel seat, caliper the material as follows: The butt is tapered from

• 7/16 in. to 25/64 in. at 1 ft. from the butt end;
• 1-1/2 ft., 11/32 in.;
• 2 ft, 21/64 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft., 5/16 in., and 3 ft., 19/64 in.
• The first 6 in. of the middle joint is calipered to 9/32 in.;
• 1 ft, 17/64 in.;
• 1-1/2 ft, 15/64 in.;
• 2 ft., 7/32 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft, 13/64 in., and
• 3 ft., 3/16 in.
• The first 6 in. of the tips are calipered to 11/64 in.;
• 1 ft, 5/32 in.;
• 1-1/2 ft., 1/8 in.;
• 2 ft., 7/64 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft, 3/32 in., and
• 3 ft., 5/64 in.

All joints are made 36-1/2 in. long. The material used is dagame, or greenheart, the butt being 5/8 in. by 4 ft., the joint 3/8 in. by 4 ft., and the tips 3/8 in. by 4 ft. The attachments, of german silver, are:

• One 3/4 in. reel seat, fly-rod type with butt cap;
• one taper, 33/64 in. at the small end;
• one 9/32-in. welted and shouldered ferrule;
• one 11/64-in. welted and shouldered ferrule with two closed-end centers, one for each tip;
• two No. 4 snake guides for the butt joint;
• three No. 3 snake guides for the middle joint, and
• six No. 2 snake guides, three for each tip section;
• two No. 7 agate angle fly tops, the kind to wind on;
• one dozen cork washers, and
• two 10-yd. spools of winding silk, 00 size.

A bass fly rod 9-1/2 ft. long, weighing 7-1/2 oz., with a cork grasp, 9-1/2 in. above the reel seat, is calipered as follows:

• The butt is tapered from 13/32 in. to 25/64 in. 1 ft. from the end;
• 1-1/2 ft. from butt, 23/64 in.;
• 2 ft., 11/32 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft., 21/64 in., and
• 3 ft., 19/64 in.
• The first 6 in. of the middle joint is 19/64 in.;
• 1 ft., 9/32 in.;
• 1-1/2 ft., 17/64 in.;
• 2 ft., 15/64 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft., 7/32 in., and 3 ft., 13/64 in.
• The first 6 in. of the tips, 11/64 in.;
• 1 ft., 5/32 in.;
• 1-1/2 ft., 9/64 in.;
• 2 ft, 1/8 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft., 7/64 in., and
• 3 ft, 5/64 in.

The joints are 36-1/2 in. long. The mountings are the same as for the trout fly rod. Dagame, or greenheart, wood is used, the butt being 5/8 in. by 4 ft., the joint 3/8 in. by 4 ft. and the tips 3/8 in. by 4 feet.

The two-piece salt-water rod with an 18-in. double cork hand grasp, the whole being 6-1/2 ft. long, is made to weigh about 13 oz., with the following caliperings:

• A uniform taper of 35/64 in. to 29/64 in., from the cork grasp to the ferrule, is given to the butt.
• The first 6 in. of the tips is 13/32 in.;
• 1 ft., 25/64 in.;
• 1-1/2 ft., 11/32 in.;
• 2 ft, 21/64 in.;
• 2-1/2 ft., 9/32 in.;
• and to tip, 15/64 in.

The joints are made 36-3/4 in. long. Dagame, or greenheart, is used with german-silver mountings. Both pieces of wood are 4 ft. long, the butt being of 3/4-in. and the tip of 1/2-in. material. One 7/8-in. reel seat with straight hood, one 1-in. butt cap, one 7/16-in. ferrule, one taper with small end 35/64-in.; one 10/32-in. stirrup-tube agate top; two No. 3 bell guides; two dozen cork washers, and two spools, size A, winding silk.

The Mountings for a Fly Rod Consist of a Reel Seat with a Straight Hood, a Taper, Snake Guide, Agate Angle Top, and Serrated Ferrule. The Toothed Ends are Wound with Silk to Afford Additional Strength

The Independent-Butt Rod

The independent-butt rod, in which the hand grasp contains the ferrule and the tip is made in one piece, is a favorite type with many of the best fishermen. This mode of construction may be used with all classes of rods, the light fly and bait-casting rods, and the heavier caliber rods used in salt-water angling. In rods of this type, it is only necessary to use the same size ferrule to make as many tips as desired to fit the one butt. Tips of several calibers and weights may thus be fashioned to fit the one butt, and if the single-piece tip is too long for some special use, one tip may be made a jointed one for ease in carrying.

The independent butt, or hand grasp, is made by fitting the ferrule directly on a length of dagame, or greenheart, which has been rounded so that the seated ferrule will not touch the wood. The ferrule is then cemented and riveted in place, and a soft-pine sleeve is fitted over the wood core and the ferrule. The forward end of the sleeve is, of course, tapered to fit the taper of the reel seat, and when properly fitted, its lower end will project about 1/4 in. beyond the pine sleeve. Glue the sleeve on this wood core, cement the reel seat to the sleeve, and rivet the reel seat in place.

The cork washers are glued in position, working the first one into the metal edge of the reel seat, to make a nice, tight joint at this point. The other corks are then glued in place until the hand grasp is of the desired length. The projecting end of the wood core is then cut off flush with the last cork, and the rod is mounted in the usual manner.

In making a double hand grasp, the forward grasp may be fitted over the wood core in the fashion already described in making the hand grasp for the one-piece bait-casting rod, or the forward grasp may be fitted to the tip, just above the ferrule, as preferred. Both methods are commonly used, the only difference being in the manner of finishing up the forward grasp. If the forward grip is affixed to the ferruled end of the tip, two tapered thimbles will be required to make a nice finish.

The heavy-surf, or tarpon, rod is made up of an independent, detachable butt, 20 in. long, having a solid-cork or cord-wound hand grasp, and a one-piece tip, 5-1/2 ft. long, altogether weighing 23-1/2 oz. It is uniformly calipered to taper from 29/32 in to 5/16 in. One piece of dagame, or greenheart, 1 in. by 6-1/2 ft., will be required.

• One 1-in. reel seat for detachable butt, including one 3/4-in. male ferrule;
• one 1-1/8-in. butt cap; two No. 11 wide, raised agate guides;
• two No. 1 trumpet guides;
• one 3/8-in. agate stirrup top;
• two spools of winding silk, A-size, and
• two dozen cork washers, or sufficient fishline to cord the butt.

The guides are whipped on double, the first set spaced 10 in. from the top, and the second, 26 in. from the reel. The core of the independent, or detachable, butt is constructed of the same material as the rod, which makes the hand grasp somewhat elastic and very much superior to a stiff and rigid butt.

Homemade Ball Catch for Cabinet Doors

To make a ball catch, procure a piece of brass, 1 in. long, 1/2 in. wide, and about 1/16 in. thick, and an old gas burner having a diameter of 3/8 in. As described by Work, London, the threaded part of the burner is cut off, which forms a contracted end that will hold a steel ball 5/16 in. in diameter and allow it to project 1/8 in. A hole is drilled in the center of the brass plate, and the barrel soldered in place. A piece of spiral spring is inserted behind the ball. The stiffness of the spring will depend on the use of the catch. The barrel is cut to length and plugged. Another plate of brass is fitted with screw holes and a hole in the center to receive the projecting ball part, for the strike.

Combination Needle and Thread Tray

When any attempt is made to keep sewing material, such as needles, spools, or buttons, separate, each of the articles is usually kept in some special drawer, or by itself, and when necessary to use one, the others must be found, frequently necessitating many extra steps or much lost time in hunting up the various articles. The illustrated combination tray avoids this difficulty. It consists of two round trays fastened together near one edge with a wood screw, which is loosely fitted in the lower tray but screwed into the upper to permit them being swung apart. Extra thickness and weight should be given the bottom piece so no tipping will result when the top is swung out to expose the buttons in the lower section. The thread spools are placed on pegs set in the upper tray, and the cushion in the center is provided for the pins and needles.—Contributed by J. Harger, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands.

Repairing Worn Escapement Wheel of a Clock

When the ordinary clock has served its usefulness and is apparently worn out, the jeweler's price to overhaul it frequently amounts to almost as much as the original purchase price. One weak place in the clock is the escapement wheel. The points soon wear down, thereby producing a greater escapement and pendulum movement, resulting in an increased strain and wear of the clock. If the tips of the teeth on the wheel are bent up slightly with a pair of pliers, the swing of the pendulum will be reduced, thereby increasing the life of the clock. Many of the grandfather's clocks can be put in order in this manner so as to serve as a timepiece as well as a cherished ornament.—Contributed by C. F. Spaulding. Chicago, Ill.

A piece of work should never be fingered while filing it in a lathe.

If He would Take Full Advantage of Any Sport and Reap the Greatest Pleasure from a Day Spent in the Open, the Sportsman should Get Together a Good Outfit

Fishing-Rod Making and Angling
By Stillman Taylor

Part III—Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait

The art of angling is generally viewed as one of the world's greatest recreations, and while each and every phase of fishing may be said to possess certain charms of its own, fly fishing for trout is regarded by most well-informed sportsmen as the alpha and omega of the angler's art. This is so because the trout family are uncommonly wary and game fish, and the tackle used for their capture is of finer balance and less clumsy than any employed in angling for the coarser game fishes. If he would take full advantage of any sport and reap the greatest pleasure from a day spent in the open, it is really necessary for the sportsman to get together a good outfit. It is not essential to have a very expensive one, but it should be good of its kind, well proportioned for the purpose for which it is to be used. The beginner, who buys without good knowledge of the articles required, or fails to use careful discrimination, is almost certain to accumulate a varied assortment of junk, attractive enough in appearance, perhaps, but well-nigh useless when it is tested out on the stream. A good representative outfit, then, is of the first importance; it means making a good beginning by initiating the novice in the sport under the most favorable conditions. Let us then consider the selection of a good fishing kit, a well-balanced rod, the kind of a reel to use with it, the right sort of a line, flies, and the other few items found in the kit of the practical and experienced trout fisherman.

Selecting a Good Fly Rod

The ordinary fishing pole may be bought offhand at almost any hardware store, but a well-balanced rod for fly fishing should be well tested out beforehand. The requirements call for a rod of comparatively light weight, a rod that is elastic and resilient, and yet strong enough to prove durable under the continued strain of much fishing. If the angler has made his own rod, as suggested in former chapters, he will have a good dependable fly rod, but the large majority of anglers who are about to purchase their first fishing kit should carefully consider the selection of the rod. At the outset it must be understood that good tackle is simply a matter of price, the finest rods and reels are necessarily high in price, and the same thing may be said of lines and flies. Providing the angler has no objection to paying $15, or more, for a rod, the choice will naturally fall upon the handmade split bamboo. For this amount of money a fair quality fly rod may be purchased, the finer split bamboos costing anywhere up to $50, but under $15 it is very doubtful whether the angler can procure a built-up rod that is in every way satisfactory. The question may arise, Is a split-bamboo rod necessary? The writer's own long experience says that it is not, and that a finely made solid-wood rod, of greenheart or dagame, is quite as satisfactory in the hands of the average angler as the most expensive split bamboo. A good rod of this sort may be had for $10, and with reasonable care ought to last a lifetime.

The points to look for in a fly rod, whether the material is split bamboo or solid wood, is an even taper from the butt to the tip; that is, the rod should register a uniform curve, or arc, the entire length. For general fly casting 9 ft. is a handy length, and a rod of 6-1/2 oz. weight will prove more durable than a lighter tool. A good elastic rod is wanted for fly casting, but a too willowy or whippy action had best be avoided. However, for small-brook fishing, where the overgrown banks prohibit long casts, a somewhat shorter and stiffer rod will be more useful. For casting in large northern streams, where the current is swift and the trout run to a larger size, a 9-1/2 or 10-ft. rod of 8 oz. weight is often preferred. Of course, the veteran angler can safely use a much lighter rod than the beginner, and one occasionally meets a man on the stream that uses a 5-oz. rod for pretty heavy fishing. To be on the safe side, the novice will make no mistake in choosing a rod of fair length and conservative weight.

When selecting a rod in the tackle shop, do not rest content with a mere examination of the appearance, but have the dealer affix a reel of the weight and size intended to be used with it. By reeling on a short length of line and reeving it through the guides and then fastening the end to a weight lying upon the floor, a very good idea of the rod's behavior may be gained, since by reeling in the line and putting tension on the rod its elasticity and curve may be seen and felt as well as in actual fishing. To give the utmost satisfaction, the rod should fit its owner, and several rods should be tried until one is found that most fully meets the angler's idea of what a rod should be. If one happens to have a good fly reel, by all means take it along and attach it to the rod while making the tests. It is practically impossible to gauge the balance of a rod without affixing the reel, and many a finely balanced tool will appear badly balanced until the proper-weight reel is affixed to it.

The Proper Kind of Reel

For fly fishing nothing is so good as the English style of click reel, which is made with a one-piece revolving side plate and with the handle affixed directly to it. Any kind of a balanced-handle reel is an out-and-out nuisance on the fly rod, because it has no advantage in quickly recovering the line, and the projecting handle is forever catching the line while casting. In fly casting, the length of cast is regulated by the amount of line taken from the reel before the cast is made, and it is while "pumping" this slack line through the guides, in making the actual cast, that the balanced or projecting handle is very apt to foul the line. A good reel that is smooth-running like a watch will cost about $10, but a very good one may be had for $5, and cheaper ones, while not so durable, may be used with fair satisfaction. The heavier multiplying reels, so essential for bait casting from a free reel, are altogether unsuited for the fly rod, being too heavy when placed below the hand, which is the only proper position for the reel when fly casting. The single-action click reel, having a comparatively large diameter, but being quite narrow between the plates, is the one to use, and hard rubber, or vulcanite, is a good material for the side plates, while the trimmings may be of german silver or aluminum. The all-metal reel is of about equal merit, but whatever the material, the most useful size is one holding about 40 yd. of No. E size waterproof line. A reel of this capacity will measure about 3 in. in diameter and have a width of about 7/8 in. between plates. A narrow-spooled reel of this type enables the fisherman to reel in the line plenty fast enough. Owing to the fact that the reel is placed below the grip on fly rods, a rather light-weight instrument is needed to balance the rod. Of the two extremes, it is better to err on the side of lightness, because a heavy reel makes a butt-heavy rod and, throwing extra weight on the wrist and arm, makes casting increasingly difficult after an hour's fishing. An old hand at the game will appreciate this point better than the novice.

The English Pattern Is the Best Type of Reel for Trout Fishing, and a Gun-Metal, or Other Dark Finish, Is Better than Shiny Nickelplate

Fly Book with Clips for Holding Snelled Flies, So That the Gut is Kept Straight between Pads of Felt

Aluminum Box with Clips for Holding Flies Tied on Eyed Hooks, Each Clip Having Places for Seven Flies

A Folding-Handle Landing Net may be Left at Home, but Most Old Anglers Like to Have It Handy When Needed

Willow Creel, or Basket, Leather-Bound with a Metal Fastening, the Number Three Size being About Right

Leader Box of Black-Finished Aluminum with Felt Pads to Keep the Leaders Moist and Pliable

A Three-Joint Fly Rod with Cork Hand Grasp and Extra Tip, and Rod Case Made of Aluminum Tubing

The Kind of Line to Use

The fly-casting line used by a veteran is generally of silk, enameled and having a double taper; that is, the line is thickest in the center and gradually tapers to a smaller diameter at each end. Single-tapered lines are likewise extensively used, and while they cost less, they are tapered at one end only and cannot be reversed to equalize the wear caused by casting. The level line, which has the same diameter throughout its entire length, is the line most generally used, but the cast cannot be so delicately made with it. For the beginner, however, the level line in size No. E is a good choice. For small-brook fishing, No. F is plenty large enough. In choosing the size of line, there is a common-sense rule among fly casters to select a line proportioned to the weight of the rod. For a light rod a light line is the rule, and for the heavier rod a stouter line is the logical choice. If the rod is of a too stiff action, use a comparatively heavy line, and it will limber up considerably; if the rod is extremely "whippy," use the lightest line that can be purchased, and used with safety.

A Fine Leader Marks the Expert Caster

The leader for trout is preferably of single gut, and as fine as the angler's skill will allow. The fly caster's rule is to use a leader whose breaking strain is less than the line, then, when the tackle parts, it is simply a question of putting on a new leader and the more expensive line is saved. Ready-made leaders may be purchased, or the angler can tie them up as desired. For length, a 3 or 3-1/2-ft. leader is about right for average fishing. Longer leaders are used, and while they sometimes are of advantage, the 3-ft. length is more useful. A longer leader is awkward to handle because the loop is apt to catch in the top of the rod when reeling in the line to bring the fish close to the landing net. Leaders may be had with a loop at each end, or with loops tied in, for using a cast of two or three flies. For all average casting, the two-fly cast is the best, but the expert angler uses the single-fly very often. For lake fishing, the single large fly is generally preferred. For using two flies, the leader is provided with three loops, one at the top, another at the bottom, and an extra loop tied in about 15 in. from the lower loop. In fly casting, the first, or upper, fly is known as the "dropper," and the lower one as the "tail" fly. For the single-fly cast but two loops are required.

Gut used for leaders should be carefully selected, and only those lengths which are of uniform diameter and well rounded chosen, the lengths which show flat and rough spots being discarded. Dry gut that is very brittle should be handled very little, and previous to a day's fishing the leaders must be soaked in water over night to make them pliable, then coiled in between felt pads of the leader box to keep them in fishing shape. After use, put the frayed leaders aside and dry them out between the flannel leaves of the fly book.

Gut is the product of the silkworm, and the best quality is imported from Spain. It comes in bundles, or hanks, of 1,000 strands, 10 to 20 in. long and in different thicknesses, or strengths. The heaviest are known as "Royal" and "Imperial," for salmon; "Marana," for extra-heavy bass; "Padron," for bass; "Regular," for heavy trout; "Fina," for light trout, and "Refina," for extra-light trout. The grades "Fina" and "Refina" are well suited for all average fly fishing, while the heavier sizes are useful for heavy large fishing.

To make the leaders, soak the strands of gut in warm water over night until they are soft and pliable. Select the strands for each leader of the desired thickness and length so that the finished leader will have a slight taper to one end only. By using the "Fina" gut for the upper length and tying in two lengths of "Refina" gut, a nicely tapered leader of light weight is obtained. Begin the leader by uniting the strands together to make it the correct length, three 12-in. strands being about right for average casting. The "single water knot" is the strongest and neatest to use. Make it by taking the thick end of the strand and doubling it back enough to tie in a common knot just large enough for the line to pass through and drawing it up tightly. Tie a single loose knot in the other end of the strand, about 1/8 in. in diameter and close to the end; take the next thickest strand of gut, thread the thicker end through the loose knot and tie a second square knot around the strand, as shown at A. By pulling on the two long ends the loops can be drawn up tightly, and the two knots will slide together and make a neat and very strong knot. Repeat this operation until as many strands of gut are knotted together as required to make the leader of the desired length. For making the loop at the ends, a double-bighted knot, tied as shown at B, is used. If a dropper fly is desired, do not pull the water knot tightly, but first insert a short length of gut with a common knot at the end and a loop in the other, then draw the water knot up tightly, and a short snell will be made for attaching the fly as usually.

(A) The Single Water Knot Used in Tying Leaders; (B) a Good Knot for Making the Loop at the End of the Leaders; (C) an Angler's Knot Used for Attaching the Line to the Leader, and (D) a Jam Knot for Attaching Eyed Flies, or Hooks, to the Leader or Snell

Flies for Trout Fishing

The standard selection of artificial flies numbers about 60, but the average fisherman will find about 24 selected patterns to answer every need. For making up the most "killing" flies for the trout season, the following can be recommended: Use red ibis, stone fly, cinnamon, red spinner, and parchmenee belle, for April; turkey brown, yellow dun, iron blue, spinner, montreal and red fox, for May; spider, black gnat, silver doctor, gray drake, orange dun, and green drake, for June; July dun, grizzly king, pale evening dun, red ant, and brown palmer, for July; Seth green, coachman, shad, governor, August dun, and royal coachman, for August, and black palmer, willow, whirling dun, queen of the water, and blue bottle, for September.

To attach a line to the leader the well-known "angler's knot" is mostly used. This knot is shown at C. The snelled fly is attached by passing the loop over the loop of the leader and inserting the fly through the leader loop. When eyed flies are used they are often attached direct to the leader, or a looped snell may be used as in the ordinary American-tied fly. To attach the eyed fly direct to the leader, the common "jam knot," shown at D, is mostly used, and when the slipknot is drawn up tightly and the extra end cut off it makes a small, neat knot, not apt to slip.

Catch to Hold Two Joining Doors Open

Where two open doors meet, a catch to keep them open can be made of a piece of wire, shaped as shown. The hooks at the ends of the wire are slipped over the shanks of the knobs.—Contributed by W. A. Saul, Lexington, Mass.

Strips cut from wood dishes used by grocers for butter, thoroughly soaked in warm water, will make excellent repair pieces for market baskets.

Bicycle Oil Lamp Changed to Electric Light

The desire for an electric light for my bicycle caused me to change a fine oil lamp, too good to be thrown away, so that an electric globe could be used in it. The oil cup of the lamp was removed, and a wood push button fastened in its place with three screws. Before fastening the push button, a porcelain socket was attached to its bottom, and connections were made between socket and push button, ends being left protruding for connection to the battery. A small flash-light battery was fastened to the lamp bracket. A small rubber washer was placed between the head of the push button on the switch and the cap, so that in screwing the cap up, a permanent connection was made. The lamp can be used as a lantern when removed from the bicycle.—Contributed by Lee Baker, Chicago.

A Push Button with Socket and Miniature Globe Used in an Oil Lamp for Electric Light

Lifter for Removing Eggs from Hot Water

An improvement over the customary way of removing eggs from hot water with a tablespoon, is to use an old-fashioned coffee strainer. This brings up the eggs without carrying hot water with them.—Contributed by L. E. Turner, New York, N. Y.

Genuine oxalic acid may be used for removing stains from all woods except mahogany.

Double Top for a Table

The need of two tables in a kitchen where there was space for only one, was the cause of devising the arrangement shown in the illustration. An ordinary kitchen table was mounted on trunk casters or domes so that it could be moved easily, whereupon a zinc top was put on it with raised edges. The table was then placed against the wall where it was to be used, and an extra, plain top fitted to it and hinged to the wall.

An Extra Top Covers the Table When It is Placed against the Wall

When it was desired to wash dishes on the zinc top, the table was pulled out without disturbing the articles on the hinged top. After drying the dishes, they are removed from the zinc top to the hinged part, and the table is pushed back against the wall.—Contributed by Louis Drummond, Philadelphia, Pa.

The Table When Drawn Out Uncovers the Zinc Tray, Fastened on Top

As a General Thing, the Veteran Fly Fisherman Prefers to Wade with the Current, and Fishes the Water in Front of Him by Making Diagonal Casts across the Stream

Fishing-Rod Making and Angling
By Stillman Taylor

Part IV—Trout Fishing with Fly and Bait

How to Cast the Fly

To be able to cast the artificial fly a distance of 50 ft., or more, and let the feathered lure alight upon the desired bit of water as lightly as a falling leaf is no small accomplishment, for fly casting is an art, and to become an expert, much practice is necessary. The personal assistance of a skillful caster is not often available, but if the angler will follow the suggestions outlined, a beginner will soon grasp the knack of handling the fly rod, and the casting will steadily improve with practice. As the knack of handling a gun is best gained—not in the field, shooting live game, but through shooting at targets—so may the art of fly casting be more quickly acquired by intelligent practice conducted away from the stream, in the back yard, or any other place roomy enough to swing the rod and a moderately long line. By practicing in this way, the angler's attention is focused upon the cast and is not partly occupied with the excitement of fishing. To make a good beginning, let the reel contain about 25 yd. of common, braided, linen line (size E is about right) and instead of a fly, or hook, affix a small split shot to the end of the line. It is well to begin with a cheap rod and save a good outfit, and if the angler learns how to make a fairly long and accurate cast with a common rod, he may feel assured that he can even do better with a first-rate outfit.

Fig. 1—The Proper Way to Take Hold of the Handle with the Reel on the Under Side

The first point to observe in making the cast is to grip the rod correctly, and this is done by grasping the rod at the right point where it balances best. By shifting the hand about this point of balance is quickly found, for at no other point will the rod "hang" well in the hand. In casting, the reel is turned to the under side of the rod with the thumb extended along the top of the grip, as shown in Fig. 1. Taking up an easy casting position, with the left foot slightly advanced, pull from the reel about 25 yd. of line and let this slack line fall in coils upon the ground in front; bring the rod up slightly above the horizontal, as shown in Fig. 2, and with a quick snap of the wrist, avoiding shoulder or body movement, throw the tip upward, checking it sharply as soon as the tip is carried over the shoulder about 25° beyond the vertical plane as in Fig. 3. This snappy upstroke of the rod makes the "back cast," by projecting the line high in the air, and carries it well behind the angler. Before the line has fully straightened out behind, and before it has an opportunity to fall much below the caster's shoulders, the rod is snapped forward with a quick wrist-and-forearm movement, which throws the line forward in front of the fisherman and in the direction he is facing, which finishes the cast with the rod in the position shown in Fig. 4.

Fig. 2—Begin the Cast with the Rod in a Position Just above the Horizontal Plane

Long and accurate fly casting is much more a matter of skill than muscle, and while some fly fishermen cast directly from the shoulder and upper arm, and thus use a considerable amount of muscular force in making the cast, this cannot be regarded as the best method of casting. The great elasticity of the fly rod ought to be taken full advantage of by the caster, and if this is done, casting will be naturally accomplished by the wrist and forearm. To make strenuous efforts to hurl the fly through the air, using an arm or body movement, is extremely tiring after an hour or so of fishing, while if the cast is made from the wrist, aided by the forearm, the snap of the rod may be depended upon to project the fly to greater length of line and allow it to fall close to the desired spot, lightly and without splashing.

Timing the back cast is the most difficult detail of fly casting, because the line is behind the angler and the eye cannot aid the hand. The novice will soon acquire the knack of casting, however, if he will remember to keep the elbow close to the side, and to keep the line well up in the air when making the back cast, and to begin the forward movement before the line has fully straightened out behind him. After a little practice, the hand will feel the slight tension communicated to the rod as the line begins to straighten out, and this should be taken advantage of to correctly time the forward movement. Counting "one" for the upstroke, "two and" for the interval required for the line to straighten out in the rear, and "three" for the forward movement, is also a good way to time the cast.

At the beginning the caster should make no attempt to secure distance. Accuracy and delicacy in placing the fly on the water is of much more importance than length of cast in trout fishing, and to attain this end, it is a good plan to place a newspaper about 25 ft. distant and try to drop the end of the line on this mark. When the caster can drop the line on the target lightly and with reasonable accuracy, he may feel justified in lengthening his cast. Other casts than the overhead cast just described are occasionally used, as the Spey, switch, wind, and flip casts, but the overhead cast is mostly used, although it is much more difficult to master.

To make the Spey cast, the angler requires a rapid stream which will carry the line downstream until it is straight and taut, the tip of the rod being held as long as possible to accomplish this end. The rod is then raised high in the air with a quick wrist movement, which lifts the line from the water to the extreme end, then without pausing the rod is carried upstream with just sufficient force to let the fly fall just above the angler. The line is now on the reverse, or upper, side of the fisherman, when with a sweep of the rod the line is projected over the water's surface—not along the surface—in the manner used in making the overhead cast.

Fig. 3—The Rod is Quickly Checked When It is Carried over the Shoulder About 25 Degrees

The switch cast is sometimes useful when trees or rocks are immediately back of the fisherman, thus preventing the line from extending far enough backward to make the overhead cast. In making this cast the line is not lifted from the water, but merely to the surface by raising the tip of the rod. The line is dragged through the water by carrying the tip in the direction one is standing until it is as far in the rear as the obstructions will permit. By a quick downward sweep of the rod the line is projected with sufficient force to roll it forward in a large coil or loop, much as a wheel rolls on a track.

The wind cast is a modification of the switch cast, but easier to make. The caster brings his line almost to his feet, and with a quick downward motion of the rod the line is thrown in a long loop against the wind. The underhand and the flip casts are so simple that it seems almost unnecessary to describe them. Both are short casts and are only used when the angler is fishing in an overgrown stream. The underhand cast is really a side cast, inasmuch as the short line is lifted from the water in a loop and propelled in the desired direction by a side sweep of the rod. The flip cast is made by holding the fly between the thumb and finger and with a few coils of line in the right hand. Bend the rod like a bow, release the fly suddenly, and the snap of the rod will project it in the desired direction and allow it to drop lightly like a fly.

Handling the Flies in the Water

As a general thing the veteran fly fisherman prefers to wade with the current and fishes the water in front of him by making diagonal casts across the stream. A good fisherman will systematically cover every inch of good water and little will be left to chance. The novice is inclined to fish his flies in a contrary manner, he casts more or less at random, and is as likely to splash the flies recklessly about in the most impossible places as he is to drop them in a favorable riffle or pool. To be able to pick out fishable water, the angler should know something about the habits of the trout, their characteristics at the several seasons of the fishing year, and their habits, which differ greatly in different streams. A fishing knowledge of the stream to be visited is of much value, but if the angler knows how to make a fair cast and possesses average skill in handling flies on water, there should be no question but that he will creel a fair number of trout even though he casts in strange waters.

Fig. 4—The Cast is Finished by Throwing the Line Forward with a Quick Wrist-and-Forearm Movement

To imitate the action of the natural insect is the most successful manner of fishing the flies, and as the natural fly will struggle more or less when borne down with the current, the fisherman endeavors to duplicate this movement by making his artificial fly wriggle about. This motion must not be overdone, for if the flies are twitched and skipped about, or pulled against the current, the wary trout will refuse to fall for any such obvious deceit. A gentle motion of the wrist will cause the fly to move somewhat as the natural insect will struggle.

In making the cast do not cast directly down or upstream, but across the current at an angle. Let the flies fall upon the water as lightly as possible, so that the water will carry them downstream over the likely places where the trout are hiding. Keep the line as taut as possible by drawing the slack in with the left hand. The flies should not be allowed to soak in the water, neither should they be retrieved in haste. The experienced fly caster will invariably fish with a wet line, that is to say, with a slightly submerged fly, and will let the flies drag over as much water as possible before making a second cast. Owing to the fact that trout lie with their noses pointing upstream awaiting their food carried down by the current, the caster will naturally take pains to float his flies downstream with the leader fairly taut. To neglect this detail and allow the leader to float in a wide loop near or before the flies is slovenly fishing, and few trout will strike a fly presented in this amateurish fashion.

Early in the fishing season, and when the stream is flooded and discolored after a heavy rain, it is a good plan to fish the flies below the surface. Fishing in this manner makes it more difficult to tell when to strike a fish, and some little practice is needed to determine the opportune moment by feeling the slight tension on the line. Many fish will be pricked to be sure, but some trout will be creeled, and fishing with the submerged fly is sometimes the only way trout can be taken.

On fair days and in smooth water, better luck may be expected when the fly is kept upon the surface, and this is easily managed by keeping the tip of the rod well in the air. Often the fisherman can take advantage of a bit of floating foam, and if the fly is cast upon it and allowed to float with it downstream, the ruse will often prove effective.

The trout is a hard striker and it is not unusual to have a trout rush ahead of the fly in his attempt to mouth it. In rapid water the savage rush of the fish is sufficient to hook it securely, but when casting in quiet pools, the hook is imbedded by a snap of the wrist. At what exact moment to strike, as well as the amount of force to use, depends upon circumstances. When fishing in small streams and brooks where the trout run small, much less force is necessary to hook the fish, but in quiet water and in larger streams where 2 or 3-lb. trout are not uncommon, the fish may be struck with a smart upward jerk of the forearm and wrist. So far as my experience goes, the matter of striking is governed by the temperament as well as the judgment of the angler. The deliberate thinking man is likely to strike too late, while the nervous individual, striking too early, is apt to prick the trout and roll him over.

The best time to fish for trout is when they are feeding on the surface; and in the early days of spring, when there are few flies about, the warmer part of the day, say, from 10 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon, will prove to be the most successful time. Later on, when flies are numerous, good luck may be expected at an early hour in the morning, and in the hot summer months the cooler hours of the day may be chosen. Of course, there are many exceptions, since there are many cool days in summer, as well as exceptionally warm days in spring, and these changes of weather should be considered. However, extremes are not likely to make good fishing, and the trout will not rise as freely on cold, windy days, nor will they fight as gamely. On hot days, too, not so much luck can be expected during the hours of the greatest heat—12 to 4—but a good basket of trout may be creeled early in the morning or late in the afternoon of summer. A bright, clear day is usually the best for fly fishing, because the sun brings out more flies, but a warm rain, or even a fog, is also considered good fishing weather.

Among the live baits available for trout fishing are the minnow, white grub, cricket, grasshopper, and other insects, and last, but by no means least, the common angle or earthworm. The minnow is beyond a doubt the most enticing morsel that can be offered to a hungry trout, and a minnow may be reckoned to secure a rise when other baits fail. The inconvenience of transporting this bait is a great drawback, and as minnows are delicate fish, a minnow bucket is necessary for their preservation. This means a lot of trouble, as the water must be frequently changed or aerated, and this labor, together with the difficulty of carrying a bulky pail through the brush, makes this desirable bait almost impossible for stream and brook fishing. The salt-water minnow, known as a "shiner" or "mummychug," is a topnotch trout bait, and being much tougher than the fresh-water minnow, makes a bait often used by anglers residing near the seacoast.

The white grub, or larvae of the so-called May beetle, is a good bait available for early-season fishing, and may be obtained in the early spring months by spading up grass land. The grub is about 1 in. long, and of a creamy yellow color with a darker head. It may be kept a month, or more, by putting it in a box with a number of pieces of fresh turf.

Crickets, grasshoppers, and many other insects, make good baits, while the earthworm is a good all-around bait for trout. A supply dug some days before and kept by packing in fresh moss and slightly moistening with milk and water will prove more attractive in appearance and the worms will be tougher and cleaner to handle than when carried in earth.

Other good baits include the fin of a trout, and if this is used in combination with the eye of the same fish, it forms an attractive lure. In using this bait, do not puncture the eyeball, but hook through the thin flexible skin surrounding the eye. A fat piece of salt pork, cut into pieces 1 in. long and 1/4 in. wide, makes a fairly good bait. Spoons and other spinning baits are presumably attractive, but few sportsmen use them when angling for so fine a fish as trout.

Houses Made of Poles

Houses Made of Poles
By Lola A. Pinchon

[In this article descriptions are given of several shelters suitable for a resort, but the reader may select any one of them that answers his needs and build a camp house, or fit up a more substantial one to make living quarters for the whole year.—Editor.]

Being forced to take the open-air treatment to regain health, a person adopted the plan of building a pole house in the woods, and the scheme was so successful that it was decided to make a resort grounds, to attract crowds during holidays, by which an income could be realized for living expenses. All the pavilions, stands, furniture, and amusement devices were constructed of straight poles cut from young growth of timber with the bark remaining on them. Outside of boards for flooring and roofing material, the entire construction of the buildings and fences consisted of poles.

The Frame Construction of the House Made Entirely of Rough Poles, the Verticals being Set in the Ground, Plumbed, and Sighted to Make a Perfect Rectangle of the Desired Proportions

A level spot was selected and a house built having three rooms. The location was in a grove of young timbers, most of it being straight, and 13 trees were easily found that would make posts 12 ft. long, required for the sides, and two poles 16 ft. long, for the center of the ends, so that they would reach to the ridge. The plot was laid out rectangular and marked for the poles, which were set in the ground for a depth of 4 ft., at distances of 6 ft. apart. This made the house 8 ft. high at the eaves with a square pitch roof; that is, the ridge was 3 ft. high in the center from the plate surfaces for this width of a house. The rule for finding this height is to take one-quarter of the width of the house for the height in the center from the plate.

The Steps are Supported on Pairs of Vertical Poles Set in the Ground to Make Different Levels

The corner poles were carefully located to make the size 12 by 24 ft., with a lean-to 8 by 12 ft., and then plumbed to get them straight vertically. The plates for the sides, consisting of five poles, were selected as straight as possible and their ends and centers hewn down to about one-half their thickness, as shown at A and B, and nailed to the tops of the vertical poles, the connection for center poles being as shown at C.

The next step was to secure the vertical poles with crosspieces between them which were used later for supporting the siding. These poles were cut about 6 ft. long, their ends being cut concave to fit the curve of the upright poles, as shown at D. These were spaced evenly, about 2 ft. apart from center to center, on the sides and ends, as shown in the sketch, and toenailed in place. The doors and window openings were cut in the horizontal poles wherever wanted, and casements set in and nailed. The first row of horizontal poles was placed close to the ground and used both as support for the lower ends of the siding and to nail the ends of the flooring boards to, which were fastened in the center to poles laid on stones, or, better still, placed on top of short blocks, 5 ft. long, set in the ground. These poles for the floor should be placed not over 2 ft. apart to make the flooring solid.

Gate Openings were Made in the Fence Where Necessary, and Gates of Poles Hung in the Ordinary Manner

A lean-to was built by setting three poles at a distance of 8 ft. from one side, beginning at the center and extending to the end of the main building. These poles were about 6 ft. long above the ground. The rafter poles for this part were about 9-1/2 ft. long, notched at both ends for the plates, the ends of the house rafters being sawed off even with the outside of the plate along this edge. The rafter poles for the house were 10 in all, 8 ft. long, and were laid off and cut to fit a ridge made of a board. These poles were notched about 15 in. from their lower ends to fit over the rounding edge of the plate pole, and were then placed directly over each vertical wall pole. They were nailed both to the plate and to the ridge, also further strengthened by a brace made of a piece of board or a small pole, placed under the ridge and nailed to both rafters. On top of the rafters boards were placed horizontally, spaced about 1 ft. apart, but this is optional with the builder, as other roofing material can be used. In this instance metal roofing was used, and it only required fastening at intervals, and to prevent rusting out, it was well painted on the under side before laying it and coated on the outside when fastened in place. If a more substantial shelter is wanted, it is best to lay the roof solid with boards, then cover it with the regular prepared roofing material.

Some large trees were selected and felled, then cut into 4-ft. lengths and the bark removed, or if desired, the bark removed in 4-ft. lengths, and nailed on the outside of the poles, beginning at the bottom in the same manner as laying shingles, to form the siding of the house. If a more substantial house is wanted, boards can be nailed on the poles, then the bark fastened to the boards; also, the interior can be finished in wall board.

The same general construction is used for the porch, with horizontal poles latticed, as shown, to form the railing. It is very easy to make ornamental parts, such as shown, on the eave of the porch, by splitting sticks and nailing them on closely together to make a frieze. Floors are laid on the porch and in the house, and doors hung and window sash fitted in the same manner as in an ordinary house.

All Furniture, Together with the Large Lawn Swings, Took on the General Appearance of the Woodland, and As the Pieces were Made Up of the Same Material As the Houses, the Cost Was Only the Labor and a Few Nails

A band stand was constructed on sloping ground, and after setting the poles, the floor horizontals were placed about 2 ft. above the ground, on the upper side, and 4 ft. on the lower side. The poles used were about 18 ft. long. Instead of having the horizontals 2 ft. apart, the first was placed 1 ft. above the floor, the next at about one-half the distance from the lower one to the plate at the top, and the space between was ornamented with cross poles, as shown. A balcony or bay was constructed at one end, and a fancy roof was made of poles whose ends rested on a curved pole attached to the vertical pieces. Steps were formed of several straight poles, hewn down on their ends to make a level place to rest on horizontal pieces attached to stakes at the ends. A pair of stakes were used at each end of a step, and these were fastened to a slanting piece at the top, their lower ends being set into the ground. The manner of bracing and crossing with horizontals makes a rigid form of construction, and if choice poles are selected for the step pieces, they will be comparatively level and of sufficient strength to hold up all the load put on them. The roof of this building was made for a sun shade only and consisted of boards nailed closely together on the rafters.

The Entrance to the Grounds was Given an Inviting Appearance with Large Posts and Swinging Gates

An ice-cream parlor was built on the same plan, but without any board floor; the ground, being level, was used instead. There were five vertical poles used for each end with a space left between the two poles at the center, on both sides, for an entrance. This building was covered with prepared roofing, so that the things kept for sale could be protected in case of a shower.

A peanut stand was also built without a floor, and to make it with nine sides, nine poles were set in the ground to form a perfect nonagon and joined at their tops with latticed horizontals. Then a rafter was run from the top of each post to the center, and boards were fitted on each pair of rafters over the V-shaped openings. The boards were then covered with prepared roofing. A railing was formed of horizontals set in notches, cut in the posts, and then ornamented in the same manner as for the other buildings.

Fences were constructed about the grounds, made of pole posts with horizontals on top, hewn down and fitted as the plates for the house; and the lower pieces were set in the same as for making the house railing. Gates were made of two vertical pieces, the height of the posts, and two horizontals, then braced with a piece running from the lower corner at the hinge side to the upper opposite corner, the other cross brace being joined to the sides of the former, whereupon two short horizontals were fitted in the center. A blacksmith formed some hinges of rods and strap iron, as shown, and these were fastened in holes bored in the post and the gate vertical. A latch was made by boring a hole through the gate vertical and into the end of the short piece. Then a slot was cut in the side to receive a pin inserted in a shaft made to fit the horizontal hole. A keeper was made in the post by boring a hole to receive the end of the latch.

Large posts were constructed at the entrance to the grounds, and on these double swing gates, made up in the same manner as the small one, were attached. These large posts were built up of four slender poles and were considerably higher than the fence poles. The poles were set in a perfect square, having sides about 18 in. long, and a square top put on by mitering the corners, whereupon four small rafters were fitted on top. The gates were swung on hinges made like those for the small gate.

Among the best and most enjoyed amusement devices on the grounds were the swings. Several of these were built, with and without tables. Four poles, about 20 ft. long, were set in the ground at an angle, and each pair of side poles was joined with two horizontals, about 12 ft. long, spreaders being fastened between the two horizontals to keep the tops of the poles evenly spaced. The distance apart of the poles will depend on the size of the swing and the number of persons to be seated. Each pair of side poles are further strengthened with crossed poles, as shown. If no table is to be used in the swing, the poles may be set closer together, so that the top horizontals will be about 8 ft. long. The platform for the swinging part consists of two poles, 12 ft. long, which are swung on six vertical poles, about 14 ft. long. These poles are attached to the top horizontals with long bolts, or rods, running through both, the bottom being attached in the same manner. Poles are nailed across the platform horizontals at the bottom for a floor, and a table with seats at the ends is formed of poles. The construction is obvious.

A short space between two trees can be made into a seat by fastening two horizontals, one on each tree, with the ends supported by braces. Poles are nailed on the upper surface for a seat.

Other furniture for the house and grounds was made of poles in the manner illustrated. Tables were built for picnickers by setting four or six poles in the ground and making a top of poles or boards. Horizontals were placed across the legs with extending ends, on which seats were made for the tables. Chairs and settees were built in the same manner, poles being used for the entire construction.

An Electric Water Heater

Procure the barrel and cap from a hand bicycle pump and prepare them as follows: Make a tube of paper, about double the thickness of a postal card, to fit snugly in the pump barrel and oil it slightly before slipping it into place. Procure some resistance wire of the proper length and size to heat quickly. The wire can be tested out by coiling it on some nonconducting material, such as an earthen jug or glazed tile, and connecting one end to the current supply and running the other wire of the supply over the coil until it heats properly. Cut the resistance at this point and temporarily coil it to fit into the bottom of the pump barrel, allowing one end to extend up through the space in the center with sufficient length to make a connection to supply wires.

Mix some dental plaster to the consistency of thick cream and, while keeping the wire in the center of the pump barrel, pour in the mixture until it is filled to within 1-1/2 in. of the top. Allow the plaster to set for about a day, then remove it from the barrel and take off the paper roll. The coil of wire at the bottom is now straightened out and wound in a coil over the outside of the plaster core, allowing sufficient end for connecting to the supply wires.

An Electric Heating Coil Made of Resistance Wire Placed in a Bicycle-Pump Barrel for Boiling Water

Cut two or three disks of mica to fit snugly in the bottom of the pump barrel, also cut a mica sheet to make a covering tube over the coil on the plaster core and insert the whole into the barrel. The two terminals are connected to the ends of a flexible cord which has a plug attached to the opposite end. Be sure to insulate the ends of the wire where they connect to the flexible cord inside of the pump barrel under the cap. In winding the resistance wire on the core, be sure that one turn does not touch the other. The heater when connected to a current supply and placed in 1 qt. of water will bring it to a boil quickly.—Contributed by A. H. Waychoff, Lyons, Colo

Camps
By F. S. Charles

A good site, pure water in abundance, and a convenient fuel supply, are the features of a temporary camp that should be given first consideration when starting out to enjoy a vacation in the woods. The site should be high and dry, level enough for the tent and camp fire, and with surrounding ground sloping enough to insure proper drainage. A sufficient fuel supply is an important factor, and a spot should be chosen where great effort is not required to collect it and get it into proper shape for the fire.

Wall Tent

Lean-To of Boughs

Log Cabin

When locating near streams of water be careful to select a spot above high water mark so the ground will not be overflowed by a sudden rise of the stream. Do not select the site of an old camp, as the surroundings are usually stripped of all fuel, and the grounds are unclean.

Division of Work

Clear the selected spot and lay out the lines for the tent, camp fire, etc. If the camping party consists of more than two persons, each one should do the part allotted to him, and the work will be speedily accomplished. Remember that discipline brings efficiency, and do not be slack about a camp just because it is pleasure. One of the party should attend to the camp fire and prepare the meals while another secures the fuel and water. The tent can be unpacked and the ground cleared by the other members of the party, and when ready, all should assist in raising the tent, especially if it is a large one.

Tents

An ordinary A or wedge tent is sufficient for one or two campers. Where you do not wish to locate permanently, this tent can be set up and taken down quickly. It should have a ring fastened to the cloth in each peak through which to pass a rope or line to take the place of a ridge pole. Such a tent can be pitched between two trees or saplings, and, after tying the rope to the trees, it can be tightened with a long forked stick, placed under one end of the rope. If two trees are not conveniently located, then two poles crossed and tied together will make supports for one or both ends, the ridge line running over them and staked to the ground.

Fire between Two Logs

Fire Built against a Log

On a chilly night, the A tent is quite advantageous. The stakes can be pulled on one side and the cloth doubled to make a lean-to, open on the side away from the wind. A fire can be built in front and the deflected heat on the sleeper will keep him comfortable and warm.

For larger parties, the wall tent with a fly is recommended. These tents can be purchased in various sizes. The fly is an extra covering stretched over the top to make an open air space between the two roofs. It keeps the interior of the tent delightfully cool in hot summer weather and provides a better protection from rain. The fly can be made extra long, to extend over the end of the tent, making a shady retreat which can be used for lounging or a dining place.

Protection from Insects

Where mosquitoes and other insects are numerous, it is well to make a second tent of cheesecloth with binding tape along the top to tie it to the ridge pole of the regular tent. The sides should be made somewhat longer than the regular tent so that there will be plenty of cloth to weight it down at the bottom. This second tent should be made without any opening whatever. The occupant must crawl under the edge to enter. The cheesecloth tent is used inside of the ordinary tent, and when not in use it is pushed aside.

Forked Sticks Supporting Cooking Utensils

Two camps are illustrated showing the construction of a lean-to for a temporary one-season camp, and a log cabin which makes a permanent place from year to year. (A more elaborate and more expensive camp was described in the May issue of this magazine.) The construction of these camps are very simple. The first is made of poles cut in the woods. A ridge pole is placed between two trees or held in place with poles of sufficient length, set in the ground. Poles are placed on this at an angle of about 45 deg., forming a lean-to that will be entirely open in front when finished. The poles are covered, beginning at the bottom, with pine boughs, laid in layers so as to make a roof that will shed water. A large fire, built a short distance from the open front will make a warm place to sleep, the heat being reflected down the same as described for the A tent.

A Permanent Camp

A good permanent camp is a log cabin. This can be constructed of materials found in the woods. Trees may be felled, cut to length, and notched to join the ends together at each corner so as to leave little or no space between the logs. The roof is constructed of long clapboards, split from blocks of wood. The builder can finish such a camp as elaborately as he chooses, and for this reason the site should be selected with great care.

Camp Fires

There is no better way to make a camp fire than to have a large log or two against which to start a fire with small boughs. Larger sticks can be placed over the logs in such a way as to hold a pot of water or to set a frying pan. Forked sticks can be laid on the log and weighted on the lower end with a stone, using the upper end to hang a cooking vessel over the flames. Two logs placed parallel, with space enough between for the smaller sticks, make one of the best camp cooking arrangements. Two forked sticks, one at each end of the logs, may be set in the ground and a pole placed in the forks lengthwise of the fire. This makes a convenient place for hanging the cooking utensils with bent wires.

Food Supplies

The conditions in various localities make a difference in the camper's appetite and in consequence no special list of food can be recommended, but the amount needed by the average person in a vacation camp for two weeks, is about as follows:

A number of small things must be added to this list, such as pepper, olive oil, sage, nutmeg and vinegar. If the weight is not to be considered, canned goods, preserves, jam and marmalade, also vegetables and dried fruits may be added. Do not forget soap and matches.

Food can be kept cool in a box or a box-like arrangement made of straight sticks over which burlap is hung and kept wet. This is accomplished by setting a pan on top of the box and fixing wicks of cloth over the edges. The wicks will siphon the water out evenly and keep the burlap wet.

A Drinking Tube

When on a walking tour through the woods or country, it might be well to provide a way to procure water for drinking purposes. Take with you several feet of small rubber tubing and a few inches of hollow cane of the size to fit the tube.

In one end insert the cane for a mouthpiece, and allow the other end to reach into the water. Exhaust the air from the tube and the water will rush up to your lips.—Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Augusta, Ga.

Washing Photographic Prints

The usual way of washing photographic prints is to place them in a shallow tray in which they will become stuck together in bunches, if they are not often separated. A French magazine suggests that a deep tank be used instead, and that each print be attached to a cork by means of a pin stuck through one corner, the cork thus becoming a float which keeps the print suspended vertically, and at the same time prevents contact with its nearest neighbor.

Camp Furnishings
By Chelsea Curtis Fraser

When on a camping trip nothing should be carried but the necessities, and the furnishings should be made up from materials found in the woods. A good spring bed can be made up in the following manner: Cut two stringers from small, straight trees, about 4 in. in diameter, and make them about 6 ft. long. All branches are trimmed off smooth and a trench is dug in the ground for each piece, the trenches being 24 in. apart. Small saplings, about 1 in. in diameter, and as straight as can be found, are cut and trimmed of all branches, and nailed across the stringers for the springs. Knots, bulges, etc., should be turned downward as far as possible. The ends of each piece are flattened as shown at A, Fig. 1, to give it a good seat on the stringers.

A larger sapling is cut, flattened, and nailed at the head of the bed across the stringers, and to it a number of head-stay saplings, B, are nailed. These head-stay pieces are cut about 12 in. long, sharpened on one end and driven a little way into the ground, after which they are nailed to the head crosspiece.

A Camp Bed Made of Saplings with Several Layers of Boughs for the Mattress (Fig. 1)

In the absence of an empty mattress tick and pillow cover which can be filled with straw, boughs of fir may be used. These boughs should not be larger than a match and crooked stems should be turned down. Begin at the head of the bed and lay a row of boughs with the stems pointing toward the foot. Over this row, and half-lapping it, place another row so that the tops of the boughs lie on the line C and their stems on the line D. This process is continued until the crosspiece springs are entirely covered, and then another layer is laid in the same manner on top of these, and so on, until a depth of 6 or 8 in. is obtained. This will make a good substitute for a mattress. A pillow can be made by filling a meal bag with boughs or leaves.

A Table Made of Packing-Box Material and a Wash Basin Stand of Three Stakes (Fig. 2, Fig. 3)

A good and serviceable table can be constructed from a few fence boards, or boards taken from a packing box. The table and chairs are made in one piece, the construction being clearly shown in Fig. 2. The height of the ends should be about 29 in., and the seats about 17 in. from the ground. The other dimensions will be governed by the material at hand and the number of campers.

A wash-basin support can be made of three stakes, cut from saplings and driven in the ground, as shown in Fig. 3. The basin is hung by its rim between the ends of the stakes.

Wherever a suitable tree is handy, a seat can be constructed as shown in Fig. 4. Bore two 1-in. holes, 8 in. apart, in the trunk, 15 in. above the ground, and drive two pins, about 12 in. long, cut from a sapling into them. The extending ends are supported on legs of the same material. The seat is made of a slab with the rounding side down.

A clothes hanger for the tent ridge pole can be made as shown in Fig. 5. The hanger consists of a piece, 7 in. long, cut from a 2-in. sapling, nails being driven into its sides for hooks. The upper end is fitted with a rope which is tied over the ridge pole of the tent.

A Seat Against the Trunk of a Tree, and a Clothes Hanger for the Tent Ridge Pole (Fig. 4, Fig. 5)

A Fruit Stemmer

In the berry season the stemmer shown in the sketch is a very handy article for the kitchen. It is made of spring steel and tempered, the length being about 2-1/2 in. The end used for removing the stem is ground from the outside edge after tempering. A ring large enough to admit the second finger is soldered at a convenient distance from the end on one leg.—Contributed by H. F. Reams, Nashville, Tennessee.

A Homemade Fountain Pen

A very serviceable fountain pen can be made from two 38-72 rifle cartridges and a steel pen. Clean out the cartridges, fit a plug tightly in the end of one shell, and cut it off smooth with the end of the metal. Drill a 3/16 in. hole in the center of the wood plug and fit another plug into this hole with sufficient end projecting to be shaped for the length of the steel pen to be used. The shank of the pen and the plug must enter the hole together. One side of the projecting end of the plug should be shaped to fit the inside surface of the pen and then cut off at a point a little farther out than the eye in the pen. On the surface that is to lie against the pen a groove is cut in the plug extending from near the point to the back end where it is to enter the hole in the first plug. The under side of the plug is shaped about as shown.

One Cartridge Shell Makes the Fountain Part of the Pen, and the Other the Cap

The other cartridge is cut off at such a point that it will fit on the tapering end of the first one, and is used for a cap. The cartridge being filled with ink and the plug inserted, the ink will flow down the small groove in the feeder plug and supply the pen with ink. Care must be taken that the surface of the smaller plug fits the pen snugly and that the groove is not cut through to the point end. This will keep the ink from flooding, and only that which is used for writing will be able to get through or leak out.—Contributed by Edwin N. Harnish, Ceylon, Canada.

Destroying Caterpillars on Grapevines

The grapes in my back yard were being destroyed by caterpillars which could be found under all the large leaves. The vine was almost dead when I began to cut off all the large leaves and those eaten by the caterpillars, which allowed the sun's rays to reach the grapes. This destroyed all the caterpillars and the light and heat ripened the grapes.—Contributed by Wm. Singer, Rahway, N. J.

It will require 1 gal. of ordinary mixed calcimine to cover 270 sq. ft. of plastered surface, 180 sq. ft. of brickwork and 225 sq. ft. of average woodwork.

A Camp Provision Box

While on a camping-and canoeing trip recently, I used a device which added a touch of completeness to our outfit and made camp life really enjoyable. This useful device is none other than a provision or "grub" box.

The Provision Box Ready for Use in Camp, the Cover Turned Back on the Brackets and the Legs Extended

From experience campers know that the first important factor in having a successful trip is compactness of outfit. When undertaking an outing of this kind it is most desirable to have as few bundles to carry as possible, especially if one is going to be on the move part of the time. This device eliminates an unnecessary amount of bundles, thus making the trip easier for the campers, and doubly so if they intend canoeing part of the time; and, apart from its usefulness as a provision container, it affords a general repository for the small articles which mean so much to the camper's welfare.

The box proper may be made of any convenient size, so long as it is not too cumbersome for two people to handle. The dimensions given are for a box I used on a canoe trip of several hundred miles; and from experience I know it to be of a suitable size for canoeists. If the camper is going to have a fixed camp and have his luggage hauled, a larger box is much to be preferred. A glance at the figures will show the general proportions of the box. It may be possible, in some cases, to secure a strong packing box near the required dimensions, thus doing away with the trouble of constructing it. The distinguishing features of this box are the hinged cover, the folding legs, and the folding brackets. The brackets, upon which the top rests when open, fold in against the back of the box when not in use. The same may be said of the legs. They fold up alongside the box and are held there by spring-brass clips.

The Brackets for the Cover as Well as Each of the Four Legs Fold Against the Sides of the Box in Such a Manner as to be Out of the Way, Making the Box Easy to Carry and Store Away in a Small Space

On our trips we carry an alcohol stove on which we do all of our cooking. The inner side of the top is covered with a sheet of asbestos, this side being uppermost when the hinged top is opened and resting on the folding brackets. The stove rested on this asbestos, thus making everything safe. The cover is large enough to do all the cooking on, and the box is so high that the cooking can be attended to without stooping over, which is much more pleasant than squatting before a camp fire getting the eyes full of smoke. The legs are hinged to the box in such a manner that all of the weight of the box rests on the legs rather than on the hinges, and are kept from spreading apart by wire turnbuckles. These, being just bolts and wire, may be tucked inside the box when on the move. The top is fitted with unexposed hinges and with a lock to make it a safe place for storing valuables.

Detail of the Turnbuckle, Button to Hold the Brackets, and the Spring Clip for Holding the Legs on the Side of the Box

In constructing the cover it is well to make it so that it covers the joints of the sides, thus making the box waterproof from the top, if rain should fall on it. A partition can be made in one end to hold odds and ends. A tray could be installed, like the tray in a trunk, to hold knives, forks, spoons, etc., while the perishable supplies are kept underneath the tray. Give the box two coats of lead paint, and shellac the inside.

The wire braces for the legs are made as follows. Procure four machine bolts, about 1/4 in. in diameter and 2 in. long—any thread will do—with wing nuts and washers to fit. Saw or file off the heads and drill a small hole in one end of each bolt, large enough to receive a No. 16 galvanized iron wire. Two inches from the bottom of each leg drill a hole to take the bolt loosely. Determine the exact distance between the outside edges of the legs when the box is resting on them. Make the wire braces 1 in. longer than this distance so that the bolts will protrude through the holes in the legs and allow for putting on the nuts and washers. Screwing up on the nuts draws the wire taut, thus holding the legs firm.

The size of the top determines the dimensions of the folding brackets which support it when open. These brackets may be solid blocks of wood, but a lighter and more serviceable bracket is constructed as follows. If the top is 20 in. wide and 30 in. long, make the brackets 10 by 13 in. Constructing the brackets so that their combined length is 4 in. shorter than the total length of the box, facilitates their folding against the back of the box when not in use. This point is clearly shown in the drawing. Our brackets were made of 1/2-in. oak, 1-1/2 in. wide, and the joints halved together. They are hinged to the back of the box as shown; and when folded are held in place by a simple catch. The weight of the lid is sufficient to hold the brackets in place when open, but to make sure they will not creep when in use insert a 1/4-in. dowel in the end of each so that it protrudes 1/4 in. Drill two holes in the top to the depth of 1/4 in., so that when the top rests on the brackets, these holes engage with the dowels. In hinging the brackets to the back see that they are high enough to support the lid at right angles to the box.

The box here shown is made of 7/8 in. white pine throughout. The legs are 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 18 in. They are fastened to the box with ordinary strap hinges. When folded up against the box they do not come quite to the top so that the box should be at least 19 in. high for 18-in. legs. About 2 in. from the bottom of the legs drive in a brad so it protrudes 1/8 in. as shown. This brad engages in a hole in the spring-brass clip when folded up as shown in the illustration.

If in a fixed camp, it is a good idea to stand the legs in tomato cans partly full of water. This prevents ants from crawling up the legs into the box, but it necessitates placing the wire braces higher on the legs.

Our box cost us nothing but the hardware, as we knocked some old packing boxes to pieces and planed up enough boards to make the sides. Of course, the builder need not adhere to these dimensions, for he can make the size to suit his requirements, while the finish is a matter of personal taste.

A blue writing ink is easily made of 1 oz. Prussian blue, 1-1/2 oz. oxalic acid and 1 pt. of soft water. Shake and allow it to stand until dissolved.

Wall Pockets in a Tent

When camping I find a few wall pockets sewed to the tent walls at the back end provide a convenient means to hold the soap, mirror, razor and other small articles liable to be lost. The pockets can be made of the same material as the tent and sewed on as a patch pocket.—Contributed by A. M. Barnes, Atlanta, Ga.

Camp Stoves

The camp stoves illustrated are different forms of the same idea. Both can be taken apart and laid flat for packing. Iron rods, 1/2 in. in diameter, are used for the legs. They are sharpened at the lower end so that they may be easily driven into the ground. The rods of the one shown in the first illustration are bent in the form of a hook at the upper end, and two pieces of light tire iron, with holes in either end, are hung on these hooks. Across these supports are laid other pieces of the tire iron. In the other stove, the rods have a large head and are slipped through holes in the four corners of the piece of heavy sheet iron used for the top. A cotter is slipped through a hole in each rod just below the top, to hold the latter in place.—Contributed by Mrs. Lelia Munsell, Herington, Kansas.

Camp-Stove Top, Either Solid or Pieced, Supported on Rods at the Corners

Attractor for Game Fish

A piece of light wood, shaped as shown and with four small screweyes attached, makes a practical attractor for game fish, such as bass, etc., by its action when drawn through the water or carried by the flow of a stream. Hooks are attached to three of the screweyes and the fourth one, on the sloping surface, is used for the line.—Contributed by Arthur Vogel, Indianapolis, Ind.

A Device for Attracting Game Fish Which is Used in Place of Bait

Simple Photographic-Print Washer

The ordinary washbowl supplied with a faucet may be easily converted into a washing tray for photographic prints or film negatives. Procure a medicine dropper from a druggist, and attach it to the faucet end with a short piece of rubber tubing. Be sure to procure a dropper that has the point turned at right angles to the body.

The Whirling Motion Set Up by the Forced Stream at an Angle Thoroughly Washes Prints

When the water is turned on it is forced through the small opening in the dropper in such a manner that the water in the bowl is kept in a constant whirling motion. This will keep the prints on the move, which is necessary for a thorough washing.

How to Make an Electric Fishing Signal

A unique electric fishing signal, which may be rigged up on a wharf or pier, and the electric circuit so arranged as to operate an electric bell or buzzer, located in the fisherman's cottage, or any other convenient place, may be constructed as follows: Obtain two pieces of 1/16-in. spring brass, one 6 in. long and 3/4 in. wide, and the other 7 in. long and 1/2 in. wide. Mount a 2-in. brass wood screw, A, in one end of the 6-in. piece as shown.

Construction of the Parts to Make the Contact Points and the Electric Connections

Place over the end of the 6-in. piece a thin sheet of insulating fiber, B, allowing it to extend down on each side about 1 in. Then bend a piece of 1/16-in. brass, C, over the insulating fiber, allowing it to extend down on each side the same distance as the insulating fiber. Drill a small hole through the lower ends of the U-shaped piece of brass, C, the insulation, B, and the 6-in. piece, while they are all in place. Remove the insulation and the U-shaped brass piece, and tap the holes in the brass for a machine screw, D. Enlarge the hole in the 6-in piece, and provide an insulating bushing for it with an opening of the same diameter as the brass machine screw. Mount a small binding post, E, on one side of the U-shaped piece of brass, and the parts may then be put together and held in place by means of the brass screw.

Drill two holes in the other end of the 6-in piece, also two holes in one end of the 7-in piece, and rivet them together with two small rivets. The 7-in. piece should project beyond the end of the 6-in. piece. A piece of thin spring brass should be made into the form of a spiral, F, and fastened to the upper end of the 7-in. piece. Provision should be made for attaching the fishline to the inside end of the brass spiral. A small binding post should be soldered to either the 6-in. or 7-in. piece, at the bottom.

If the device is set up with the head of the brass adjusting screw in the top of the 6-in. piece, pointing in the direction the line to the fishing hook is to run, and if a fish pulls upon the line, the 7-in. piece is pulled over and touches the point of the adjusting screw. If a battery and bell, or buzzer, is connected as shown, the circuit will be completed when the 7-in. piece comes in contact with the adjusting screw, and the bell will ring.

A Chair Swing

A comfortable porch or lawn swing can be easily and quickly made with a chair as a seat, as follows. Procure some rope of sufficient strength to bear the weight of the person, and fasten one end securely to one of the front legs of the chair and the other end to the same side of the back as shown in the illustration, allowing enough slack to form a right angle. Another piece of rope, of the same length, is then attached to the other side of the chair. The supporting ropes are tied to these ropes and to the joist or holding piece overhead.—Contributed by Wm. A. Robinson, Waynesboro, Pa.

The Ropes are Tied to the Chair so That It will be Held in a Reclining Position

Another Broom Holder

Of the many homemade devices for holding a broom this is one of the simplest, and one that any handy boy can make.

It consists of a string, about 1 ft. long, with a knot at one end and the other tied to a nail or staple driven into the wall. To hang up the broom simply turn the string around the handle as shown, and the broom will be held securely, because its weight will pull the string taut and the knot at the end will prevent the string from running off the handle.—Contributed by Jef De Vries, Antwerp, Belgium.

Squaring Wood Stock

The device shown in the sketch is a great help to the maker of mission furniture as a guide on short cuts. It consists of two pieces of wood, A and B, preferably of oak, fastened together at right angles by two large flat-head screws. The pieces should be placed exactly at right angles.

The Saw Teeth Edge can be Run through Both Pieces, the Stock being in the Corner

A cut is then made through both pieces. The cut on B should be exactly at right angles to the surface of piece A. This device can be either clamped on a board or merely held by hand, and will insure a true cut.—Contributed by F. W. Pumphrey, Owensboro, Ky.

A Wind Vane

A novelty in wind vanes is shown in the accompanying sketch. The vane can be made of sheet metal or carved from light wood. The wings are so set on the body as to cause the dragon to rise when the wind strikes them. The dragon is pivoted on a shaft running through its center of gravity, so it will readily turn with the wind. The tail part may also be made to revolve as the propeller of an aeroplane.

The length and size of the shaft will depend on the dimensions of the dragon, and similarly, the location of the weights on the chains will be determined by its size and weight. Upon these circumstances and the varying velocities of the wind will depend how high the dragon will rise on its shaft, and the height reached by it will thus serve to indicate—in a relative manner only—the velocity of the wind, but it is also possible to arrange the weights at such distances apart that the dragon will rise to A in a 20-mile wind, to B in a 30-mile wind, to C in a 40-mile gale, and so on, with as many weights as desired. This can be done with the aid of an anemometer, if one can be borrowed for some time, or the device may be taken to the nearest weather bureau to be set.—Contributed by H. J. Holden, Ontario, Cal.

Never rock a file—push it straight on filing work.

How to Make a Flutter Ring

The flutter ring is for inclosing in an envelope and to surprise the person opening it by the revolving of the ring. The main part is made of a piece of wire, A, bent so that the depth will be about 2 in. and the length 4 in. Procure or make a ring, 2 in. in diameter. The ring should be open like a key ring. Use two rubber bands, BB, in connecting the ring to the wire.

The Shape of the Wire and Manner of Attaching the Rubber Bands to the Ring

To use it, turn the ring over repeatedly, until the rubber bands are twisted tightly, then lay it flat in a paper folded like a letter. Hand it to someone in this shape or after first putting it into an envelope. When the paper is opened up, the ring will do the rest.—Contributed by D. Andrew McComb, Toledo, O.

A Kitchen Utensil Hanger

Every cook knows how troublesome it is to have several things hanging on one nail. When one of the articles is wanted it is usually at the back, and the others must be removed to secure it. A revolving rack for hanging a can opener, egg beater and cooking spoons, etc., takes up less space than several nails, and places every article within easy reach as well as providing individual hooks for all the pieces.

The Hook Support Revolves so as to Make Each One Readily Accessible for Hanging Utensils

The rack is easily made of a block of wood, 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick; an arm, 3/4 in. wide, 1/4 in. thick and 6 in. long, and a metal bracket. The arm is fastened to the bracket and the bracket to the wall. A screw is turned through a loose-fitting hole bored in the end of the arm and into the disk. Screw hooks are placed around the edge of the disk as hangers.—Contributed by A. R. Moore, Toronto, Can.

Homemade Hinges for Boxes

A very simple form of hinge can be made as shown in the sketch. It is merely a matter of cutting out two pieces of flat steel, A, punching holes in them for screws or nails, and fastening them to the box corners, one on each side. When the box is open, the lid swings back clear and is out of the way. A hinge of this kind is very strong. For a light box, the parts can be cut from tin.—Contributed by Chas. Homewood, Waterloo, Iowa.

Hinge Parts Made of Sheet Metal and Their Use on a Box Cover

To Remove Odors from Ice Boxes

An easy way to prevent odors in an ice box is to place a can of coke in the box. This will take up all gases and prevent milk from tasting of onions or vegetables which may be kept in the box.

In factories where bad odors are apt to spoil the men's lunches put up in pails or baskets, a box can be constructed to hold these receptacles and a large pail of coke placed in it. Anything placed in this box will remain free from odors, and fresh.—Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.

Preventing Window Sash from Freezing to the Sill

When it is cold enough to cause the window sash to freeze fast in the bathroom and bedrooms not having double sash, much discomfort will be experienced and the health may even be menaced. I have discovered a simple method to overcome this difficulty. Lay on the outside sill, close up against the window frame, a thin, narrow strip of wood, on which the window can rest when down. This gives a continual current of fresh air between the sashes at the center, but no unpleasant draft below, and no amount of dripping and freezing will fasten the window sash upon it.—Contributed by Mary Murry, Amherst, Nova Scotia.

A Hanger for the Camp

A garment, or utensil, hanger can be easily made for the camp in the following manner: Procure a long strap, about 1-1/4 in. wide, and attach hooks made of wire to it. Each hook should be about 4 in. long and of about No. 9 gauge wire. Bend a ring on one end of the wire and stick the other end through a hole punched in the center of the belt. The ring will prevent the wire from passing through the leather, and it should be bent in such a manner that the hook end of the wire will hang downward when the width of the belt is vertical. These hooks are placed about 2 in. apart for the length of the belt, allowing sufficient ends for a buckle and holes. The strap can be buckled around a tree or tent pole.—Contributed by W. C. Loy, Rochester, Ind.

Never stand in a direct line of a swiftly revolving object, such as an emery wheel.

Locking Several Drawers with One Lock