KATHAY:
A
CRUISE IN THE CHINA SEAS.

BY
W. HASTINGS MACAULAY.

NEW-YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 10 PARK PLACE.
M.DCCC.LII.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by
G. P. PUTNAM & COMPANY,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New-York.

JOHN F. TROW, PRINTER,
49 Ann-Street.

Dedication
TO
MRS. JANE G. SPROSTON, BALTIMORE.

ESTEEMED AND RESPECTED MADAM:

I have presumed to address this work to you, more to prove the truth of its motto, than from any hope that it may be intrinsically worthy of your acceptance.

Connected with a noble profession by ties at once sad and dear, I have considered that a narration of events seen in its service—however unworthily set down, might not be uninteresting to you; and feeling assured that your prayers and kind wishes have followed us through "changing skies," as we have sped across "distant seas,"—upon our safe return, I am truly happy in being able to imitate the custom of mariners of more sunny climes, and to place this offering of affection upon the altar of Gratitude.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS.

KATHAY.

CHAPTER I.

Set Sail​—​Sea-sickness​—​Get a good offing​—​Sail ho!​—​Islets of St. Paul​—​Shipwreck there​—​Sufferings​—​Crossing the Line​—​Fernando Noronha​—​Fire​—​Remarkable peak​—​Arrival at Rio​—​Disappointment​—​Beauties of the harbor​—​Ashore at last​—​Village of San Domingo​—​Flying trip to city​—​Yellow fever​—​All hands up anchor​—​Sugarloaf Mountain​—​Off for the Cape.

Immediately after noon, upon the 29th day of January, 1850, we east off from the wharf at the Navy Yard in Charlestown, Massachusetts, and with the pilot on board, proceeded to sea. But little time was allowed to send our adieus, for he soon left us, bearing with him some hasty scrawls, to the illegibility of one of which a very good friend of the writer can testify. Our commander was very anxious to commence his cruise, and having been delayed nearly one month for officers, put off upon it as soon as the last gentleman had reported.

That bugbear to all landsmen,—sea-sickness,—gave me but little annoyance, although some of the crew appeared to suffer greatly from its effects.

Having a favorable wind we soon made a good offing, a very desirable thing at that season of the year, and indeed one which no sailor objects to on any coast, when outward bound; a fresh, favoring breeze and plenty of sea room being his most fervent prayer.

Our first destination was Rio, and towards it we bent our course. A few days out, and the novelty of our situation having worn off, pleasing remembrances of persons, localities, and particular events which had occurred during our sojourn in Boston, became less frequent, and pretty allusions to "again standing upon the deck," poetical petitions to the dark blue Ocean, praying it, in the language of Byron, to "roll on," gradually gave way to growlings, when old Neptune, as if in answer, drove his chariot over its surface, and working its waters into a yeasty foam, disturbed, at the same time, both our equilibrium and equanimity.

But little occurred to destroy the usual monotony of a sea voyage. At long intervals "sail ho!" would be called out by the lookout on the foretopsail yard, and after a time our eyes would be greeted from the deck with the sight of another white-winged wanderer like ourself, steering for his distant port. Then would come conjecture as to whither he might be bound, and sailor-like reflections upon his rig, qualities of sailing, and the judgment of the skipper in the selection of his course.

Our reckoning, and the change of temperature both of air and water, soon announced that we were approaching that equatorial divider of our globe, called "the Line," and in about one degree of latitude above it (1° 16' N.) we made the islets of Saint Paul, a barren pile of rocks of about one mile and a half in length, and of inconsiderable breadth, standing solitarily and desolately here in mid ocean. Made their longitude by the mean of three chronometers; observation 29° 19' 57'' west; about one degree different from the longitude in which they were laid down in our chart; an error which should be corrected.

It was here that a few years ago a Dutch East Indiaman was wrecked, and of nearly two hundred souls but three or four were saved, and these were taken off after remaining upon the rocks some twelve days, without nourishment and exposed to all the horrors of starvation. Worse yet than that, deprived of shelter from a vertical sun, without water to restore the fluids which his fierce rays extracted from their parching bodies. An immense number of birds were flying over and around these jagged peaks, and who knows how greatly these may have added to the torture of the shipwrecked crew, when failing nature denied the power to protect themselves.

"Ah who can tell
The looks men cast on famished men;
The thoughts that came up there."

In the morning watch of the twenty-sixth of February, we "crossed the line" in longitude 29° 56' 50'' west, with such light breezes, that at meridian we had logged but 30' south. We escaped the usual visit of old Neptune upon entering the threshold of his dominions,—and as it was early morning, suppose the "Old Salt" was calmly reposing in the arms of Amphitrite. Seriously, I consider this custom of performing practical jokes in the character of Neptune, as "one more honored in the breach than the observance," and that no officer should endanger the discipline of his ship by allowing such unmannerly pranks as we read of having been performed, and where the initiated have paid the penalty with broken bones, sometimes with life.

At 5. 45. A. M. of the same day, the island of Fernando Noronha was made from the mast head, and as it gradually loomed to the vision, from the deck, its remarkable peak began to assume various shapes, mostly resolving themselves into the semblance of a high tower. It is on the north side of the island, and is called "the Pyramid;" is said to elevate its rocky proportions from the midst of a beautiful grove to the height of about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. Near its summit there is a station, from which a lookout can have supervision over the entire island, and the sea for many leagues on every point surrounding it.

The island of Fernando Noronha we found in latitude 3° 51' 04'' south, and longitude 32° 27' 15'' west. It was at one time much resorted to by whalers for provisions and water, although the scarcity of the latter at certain seasons, does not render it at all times desirable for this purpose. It is about seven miles long, and from two to three in breadth.

Noronha was at one time used by the Brazilian government as a place of transportation for criminals, principally those exiled for treason, and offenders against the state, and is said to contain some beautiful scenery; also to produce magnificent fruit. But we were not to linger there, and soon its peak, becoming more and more indistinct, sinking slowly, lost its proportions beneath the horizon.

The first day of what would have been called spring in our own beautiful land, was ushered in by an alarm of fire. The officers and the different messes were nearly all at breakfast when the signal for such an accident was given, and were not slow in obeying its summons; in less than a minute every one was at his station, when the smoke was discovered issuing from the galley funnel forward, into which a lazy cook, whose duty it was to have it properly cleaned every morning, had inserted some straw for the purpose of performing his duty more expeditiously and effectually; and indeed he had nearly succeeded in getting rid of it altogether, had it not been for the promptness of a forecastle man, who seizing a bucket of water, opportunely standing near him on the topgallant forecastle, dashed it down the funnel, preventing the flames from communicating with the foresail, and thus probably saved the ship.

Of all the numerous accidents to which a man-of-war is so peculiarly liable, that of destruction by fire is most likely to occur, and requires the strictest discipline to guard against; for this are established certain hours for smoking, and a stated period at night for the extinguishing of all lights; so that after ten o'clock the peopled ship speeds on her way, over the dark bosom of the heaving billows, with only the light in the binnacle to show her course upon the illuminated card, and the well-secured lamp in the cabin, by which her commander, anxious and unsleeping, traces her track along the corrected chart.

Upon the tenth day of March, Sunday, at seven bells in the last dog watch, we came to anchor in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, off the town known generally by the name of the river, but originally called San Sebastian. After forty days at sea, the exact time made by the first voyageur, Noah, we were as anxious as he might be supposed to have been, to escape from his menagerie; for take it as you will, you will find Emerson's "Experience" to agree with yours in this respect, however you may differ from him in others, when he states in his essay with that title (which essay, par parenthesis, I was compelled to swallow in hospital for want of better mental aliment), that, "Every ship is a romantic object, except the one you sail in,—embark, and the romance quits your vessel, and hangs on every other sail in the horizon."

After, as I have said, this period of probation, in a vessel crowded almost to the extent of Noah's, and whose crew bore some resemblance to his, if one might judge from the growls on board—the prospect of a trip to the shore, fresh provender and iced drinks was delicious, especially as the Hotel of Pharoux had been so repeatedly extolled during the passage as a horn of plenty, abounding in delicacies, and our mouths had been so often made to water upon many a "banyan day," by the luscious descriptions of those who had on former occasions the happiness to have indulged therein. But alas! for human hopes and expectations;

"L'homme propose, et Dieu dispose!"

For early on the next morning, after getting out the boats, and making other preparations for a visit to Rio, an order came from our commodore on that station, forbidding us to land, or to hold communication with the shore, on account of the prevalence of the yellow fever, then epidemic there. So here we lay, only a few cables' length from the Ilha da Cobras, with all the tropical plants and fruit almost within reach, and tantalizing us with their perfume,—the domes, palaces and public buildings of a gay capital (unvisited by many), rising picturesquely before us, and yet forbidden. We thought of Tantalus, and his fate, of Prometheus and the rock—of—of Adam and his expulsion, and must own that in our first feelings of disappointment, we made but a partial excuse for our primal progenitor, and great great grandmother, as we repeated those expressive lines of the poet, so early engraved upon our memory—

"In Adam's fall
We sinnéd all."

But trying as was our situation, we were in a measure compensated for our disappointment by the beauty of this unrivalled harbor; and to describe it fully, I must be allowed to revert to the period when the coast of Brazil was first made, with its bold outlines developing new beauties as we approached. Indications of land had been noticed early in the morning of the day of our arrival, and shortly the numerous mountain peaks for which this coast is celebrated, filled the horizon before us like a line of dark clouds. As the distance was diminished, peak after peak stood out in bold relief against the blue sky, and we were soon enabled to make out the False Sugarloaf, Corcovado, Lord Hood's Nose, and The Tops—so called by sailors, from their resemblance to those parts of a ship. The light breeze, under which we carried studding-sails, and all the canvas that would draw, gradually wafted us towards the mouth of the river, yet so gently did we glide along that not one feature of the scene was lost; but it was not until we had passed the islands that screen its front, that its full magnificence was developed, and then, as by the drawing aside of a curtain, the harbor of Rio de Janeiro was displayed,—a magnificent basin surrounded by innumerable hills, which were dotted with beautiful villas.

Under a spanking breeze, which suddenly sprung up, we dashed on nearly to the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, and then stood over boldly to the fort Santa Cruz, from which we were hailed, and as the short twilight had given way to deeper shadows, were signalized by blue lights, continued by an opposite fortification, until they were noticed at the station on Signal Hill behind the city. Onward we sped, through a fleet of vessels, our craft threading her way, "like a thing of life," obeying the master's steady commands, creating no little sensation, as she darted amongst them, inclining to the right or left, or pressing boldly, straight ahead, to the repeated orders of "starboard," "port," or "steady there, so," and causing the different craft to run up their signal lights quite hastily. "Stand by," "let go the anchor," and there she lay as if taking rest after a long journey.

On viewing the scene from the deck by the early light of the next morning's dawn, I could compare it with nothing but the painting displayed in a theatre, and the quiet that reigned in that still hour, added greatly to the effect. The background of mountains piercing the clouds; the foreground being formed by the town itself with its houses of various hues, and picturesque styles of architecture, ascending the mountain's side, and villas, and country seats aiding the perspective, whilst the island of Cobras served as a side scene.

Around us stretched for leagues this splendid harbor, upon whose broad bosom lay vessels of every nation (and which appeared capable of bearing the fleets of the world), fringed by hills whose verdure seemed undying, over which were spread the beautiful trees of a tropical clime.

An opportunity at last occurred of setting foot upon terra firma once more, which was as gladly embraced—permission having been granted to visit the shore opposite to Rio, where is the village of San Domingo and the Praya Grande; with several officers we were pulled in the second cutter to intercept one of those graceful lateen rigged boats, called "felloas," which are seen in such numbers flitting in every direction over these beautiful waters. As soon as we were landed at the village, there ensued an amusing scene in paying for our passage. The sum of two "dumps" (about four cents in the currency of the United States), each, being demanded, we placed our quotas as nearly as we could make them, in the hands of one of the party, who acted as spokesman, who tendered the commandante of the felloa one of our silver coins, much greater in value than the aggregate sum of our passage money,—which was indignantly refused by the tawny Brazilian, who was immediately assailed by each member of the party who had any pretensions to language other than his own; from which babel we were but too happy to escape, learning, however, when we were overtaken by the linguists, that they had fairly talked "the old fellow" down, and compelled him to take more money than (even allowing for difference of currency) he had demanded.

To a person who has never visited tropical countries, a landing upon this part of the Empire of Brazil, must be productive of much pleasure. At times, it is true, the heat is oppressive, but then the delightful sea-breeze setting in at regular hours, amply compensates for the inconvenience of the "terrales," the term applied to the wind which blows off the land.

We wished much to have enjoyed the society of the opposite city, but the fell destroyer held his revels there, and we could only manage a stolen visit to it by night in one of the swift felloas from Praya Grande, having to make a hasty flight on board ship early the next morning—gaining but little information by our trip, excepting the assurance that those who had promised so fairly for Mons. Pharoux were indeed true prophets.

The call of "all hands up anchor," awakened us on the morning of the 18th of March, and before all hands were on deck, we were being towed out of the harbor by one of the small steamers, to undertake the longest part of our cruise. The view was then as fine as could be imagined; we were near the outlet, but Corcovado, Sugarloaf, The Forts, and town were all in sight, and we had but to turn our eyes from one magnificent sight, to have them greeted by another. I was much struck by the appearance of Sugarloaf Mountain as we passed; it is of great height, and the reader will readily understand the peculiarity which gives its name. At the time a cloud encircled its brow, within a short distance of the summit, yet leaving its peak plainly visible, as if a wreath had been cast over it, and had rested in that position. But soon Rio, and its beauties had faded in the distance, and we were steering our lonely course for the Cape.

CHAPTER II.

Telling Tales out of School​—​Double the Cape​—​The Flying Dutchman​—​Albatross and Cape Pigeons​—​Catching the Albatross​—​The Man who Ate the Albatross​—​Superstition of Sailors​—​Man Overboard​—​Lying to​—​Accident​—​Death​—​The Sailor's Grave.

It is very difficult to find incidents on board of a man-of-war which you can feel justified in setting before the public; for be it known, in regard to the "secrets of this prison-house," that "such unwonted blazon may not be." Now, on board a merchantman, a person might, if afflicted with Cacoethes Scribendi, detail the peculiarities of the skipper, and any little accident which may have befallen him; such as the admixture of briny fluid, which Father Neptune may have chosen to infuse into his glass of sherry, by sending an envoy, in the shape of a wave, across the poop, who dropped his credentials as he passed over the unclosed skylight: the numerous evils which befell the mate: the jokes of Jones: the puns of Smith, or the sallies of Sandy. But here we are forbidden to walk shodden over sacred ground and details of the cruise must be confined to generalities; otherwise the travels of the celebrated Gulliver would be eclipsed, Baron Munchausen lose his claim to veracity, and the shade of the venerable Miller slink back to its original punishment.

A strong northerly wind drove us along the coast of Brazil a little farther south than was our intention to have steered; but upon its changing, we mended our course, and soon doubled the Cape of Good Hope, without any incident worthy of notice,—not even seeing the Flying Dutchman; and if I except the white-winged albatross which followed in our wake, and the graceful Cape pigeon that strove to emulate our speed, I may say that, to all appearance, we were alone upon the ocean,—the moving centre of one vast dial of water enlarging its circumference as we advanced. But here I must be allowed to notice the occurrence of one of those coincidences which serve to keep alive those smouldering fires of superstition, which Education and Experience have done so much to quench. It had been the practice to fish (?) for the friendly and companionable albatross with a line towed astern, to which a hook was attached, baited with a piece of pork. Now many had been the protests made against these proceedings by some of our most stanch and fearless men. They prophesied in substance, if not in words, that

"It was not, nor could it come to good."

Yet these prophecies were disregarded, and notwithstanding their solemn murmuring and ominous shakings of the head, the sport was continued; and many a wondering albatross was bitten, when he took a bite at the treacherous pork; until one day, after numbers had been taken, one of the messes determined to have a sea-pie, of which the body of one of these birds should be the component part. If force could have been used to prevent the consummation of this deed, that mess had not dined that day: but as the crew on board of a man-of-war have no other recourse but to report their grievances to the first lieutenant, and that not being deemed advisable in such a case, these men were allowed to eat the albatross. Now I do not pretend to identify the captor of the bird, nor was I able to point out the person who ate the greater portion of him when transformed into a pie; but it so happened that the next morning, about seven bells, the ship was alarmed by the cry of "A man overboard!" This is an appalling sound at any time; but when the ship is making ten knots, with a heavy sea on, the chances for a fellow-creature's fate, make the moment one of dreadful anxiety, and especially to the commander, one of fearful responsibility; as to save one life, that of ten or more must be risked. Ready for the occasion, ours never hesitated. The ship was put about at once, and as her headway was reduced, a boat prepared for lowering, volunteers to the rescue called away, and the boat at once so crowded as to make it necessary to order men out of her before she could be let down. She had barely touched the water, when the men gave way; but now came the difficulty, which way to steer? Our velocity had been so great as to leave the poor fellow miles astern; and as every one had been engaged at his station in wearing ship, the bearings of the place where he was struggling for dear life had become confused. Twenty voices shouted out "Pull there!" "Pull here!" and as many hands pointed to as many different directions. Our commander, who had carefully scanned the surrounding waters, and had shown the greatest solicitude for the fate of the poor fellow, combined with that steady coolness so necessary in such moments, ordering silence, made a signal for the boat to pull towards a spot where a number of albatross were hovering. The midshipman in the boat at last comprehending the signal, pulled as directed; and then, after hoisting in what appeared to be the life-buoy, which had been let go on the first alarm, headed for the ship. To lessen the distance, in such a heavy swell, the ship also approached the boat; and as she bent her head gracefully towards that which she had so long sustained at her side, I could hardly divest my mind of the idea that she was possessed of instinct, and sought with maternal eagerness her tiny child, which had strayed upon the ocean. As the boat approached, from the forecastle the man's form could be distinguished;—he was saved! Soon he was handed over the side, given over to the surgeon to resuscitate, and the next day was about, and attending to his duty. And now for the connection of the albatross with this accident. One of his messmates declared most solemnly that he had seen an albatross sweeping over the topgallant forecastle whenever this man—who had feasted upon one of his kind—had appeared upon it; and that at the very moment of his disappearance, (he fell from the head,) this same identical bird had made a swoop, and carried him overboard! Then, the men in the boat also affirmed, that when they reached the drowning man, two albatross were holding him up by the hair, whilst others, circling round his head, pecked wickedly at his face; thus retaliating upon one who had devoured their species, by picking his bones in return. But if the truth must be told, however disposed the birds may have been, they were the means used by Divine Providence to prolong the sailor's life; for they not only sustained him, as they would have done any other desirable object, by pecking at it, but also directed us where to send the boat to his assistance. So the man who ate, escaped the more prolonged punishment of him who

——"shot the albatross."

To show how these matters are managed on board a man-of-war, I give the report of the affair: "At 7^h. 30^m., J. D. (O. S.) fell overboard; hove to; lowered a boat; wore ship, and picked him up. At 8, wore, and stood upon our course." If a man had slipped upon the pavement, and you had assisted him to rise by extending your hand, the fact could hardly have been explained in fewer words. But it is this indifference to danger, and the casualties of his calling, that makes up the efficiency of the sailor.

On the twenty-third day of April we were obliged to lay to in lat. 38° 26' south, and longitude 45° 34' 47'' east, by chronometer, and on parts of the first, third, and fourth days of May had to undergo the same operation. This was by no means pleasant, as, owing to the weight of our battery, we rolled very much; and as we could not close the ports entirely, for fear of carrying them away, had a constant flow of water across the deck, sometimes very difficult to bear up against.

On the tenth of May, at about 5 P. M., all hands were called to reef topsails, and a forecastle man, who was hurrying aloft to assist his companions on the foreyard, fell from only a few rattlings above the sheerpole upon the deck, and injured himself so severely as to cause his death early the next morning. Poor fellow!

"Nor wife, nor children, more shall he behold,
Nor friends, nor sacred home."

His remains were committed to the deep, at meridian of the same day; and many a manly fellow among his messmates and the crew added a briny drop to the wave

——which bore him away,
And wept in compassion for him.

The ship, as if loth to leave the spot, lingered there; for it fell calm, and by the next meridian we had logged but seven miles.

CHAPTER III.

Island of St. Paul​—​Steering for JavaHead​—​Land ho!​—​Christmas Island​—​Straits of Sunda​—​A Beautiful Scene​—​Sentimental Simile​—​Come to Anchor​—​Anger Point​—​Village of Anger​—​On Shore in Java​—​Perfume of the East​—​Banyan Tree​—​The Governor and Dutch Hotel Keeper​—​Welcome at an Inn​—​Attack on Anger Fort​—​Dutch Officers' prowess, and French!​—​The Javanese​—​Chinaman​—​Mosque​—​Mahomet​—​Bazaar​—​Watering Place.

To make the island of Saint Paul in the Indian Ocean, became now our principal object, but baffling and adverse winds delayed us. At last during a stormy night the longitude of this island was obtained, and we steered as well as we were able for Java Head and the Straits of Sunda. Upon the twenty-fifth day of May at ten minutes past four, P. M., the welcome cry of "Land ho!" was heard at the mast head, which was found to be Christmas Island, and which we also passed in the night too late to make any observations.

We were, however, more certain now of the correctness of our position, and when, at daylight on the 27th, Trower's and Clapp's islands were made, felt sure of soon seeing Java Head, and in a short time this long looked for landmark greeted our eyes. Here we entered the Straits formed by the approximation of the islands of Java and Sumatra, and called the Straits of Sunda.

The night of our entrance was one of some anxiety, and between this feeling and the excitement of making land after a long and boisterous passage, caused a pretty general watch to be kept by idlers and all.

It was in the morning watch—Prince's Island had been safely passed, and the principal dangers of the passage overcome, when seated upon the foreyard a scene of beauty opened upon my eyes, which it may be long before they are greeted with again. We were heading up the Straits, and from my position the highlands of both islands were in sight. The morning air was soft and balmy, and came laden with sweet odors, as if Aurora had lingered to inhale them upon the "Spice island."

We were being wafted along almost imperceptibly, with but so slight an undulation as scarcely to be felt. To the eastward rose a high peak on Sumatra, around which the sky was rosy with the day god's first beams. The gentle waters around us were still in shadow, with sufficient light, however, upon their surface to enable the eye to take in their expanse, and to distinguish objects upon them. In the distance, and approaching, was a brig looking like a tiny toy, with British colors at her gaff, beating out of the Straits. As the sun, climbing still higher the side of the obstructing mountain, diffused his gladdening light over this magnificent scene, the idea struck me, and call it sentimental if you will, that it was like the first blush suffusing the face of a fair young bride, ere the full glad assurance of her happiness comes in all its power to convert it into a bright, beaming smile. So did these rosy rays overspread the face of nature, and enliven every feature.

On the twenty-ninth of May, came to anchor at Anger Point off the village of Anger (pronounced Anjier), a Dutch settlement. Of course the desire to get on shore was general after being over seventy days on ship-board, and my feet were among the first of those which touched the soil of Java.

What struck me first as we approached the shore, was that remarkable perfume which every one notices as peculiar to the East.

A magnificent banyan tree, which literally spreads itself over the landing, next became an object of attraction; of its exact spread or height I was not informed, but the natives muster in numbers under its branches, and the Dutch Governor uses it to display the signal of his authority—the flag of his nation.

The governor of this district, whose pardon I must crave for allowing his name just now to slip from my memory, has, here at Anger, a very fine house and extensive grounds kept in admirable order, and appeared to enjoy himself in this out-of-the-way place, but as he possessed a young, pretty, and interesting companion, in the shape of a little wife, had a perfect right to do so, especially being

"Monarch of all he surveyed."

Whilst his next door neighbor, Mr. Van-Sy Something or other, having a house nearly as comfortable, used it as a hotel, if hotel that can be called, in which you have permission to wait upon yourself, and are charged extravagantly for the privilege, whilst its proprietor pays his devoirs (devours?) to his bottle of Schnapps, from which his lips are seldom removed, excepting to receive his pipe, and to sputter out some delectable Dutch. Thought of Wm. Shenstone's "Warmest Welcome at an Inn," and wished the poet had been compelled to "put up" with this same Dutchman as a species of "poetical justice," for placing the purchased pleasures of a public house before the sacred and free gifts of home.

There is a fort here in good repair and kept in excellent order, and I was informed that a short time previous to our arrival it had been attacked by the natives, who were repulsed with great slaughter. The attack was fierce and vigorous, but as the Malays were not possessed of fire-arms, and made the assault with only their naked creeses, they were easily repulsed. Was told of the tremendous execution done by one gun in throwing grape amongst them, but I felt a little inclined to doubt its efficiency upon examining its bore.

The attacking Malays were not those of the immediate vicinity, whose prowess, from their appearance, I should be inclined to doubt, but came from the mountains, an unconquered people, who continually make war upon the invaders of their soil. I was greatly amused by the recital of his part in the affair, by a non-commissioned officer, who informed me that he was born a Belgian, and gave his story in broken French, broken in words as well as grammar, for he had been imbibing something stronger than water. It appeared that his valiant self and two others equally brave—one a Frenchman, the other a Prussian—had been selected to serve as a picket, or avante garde, as he termed it, some distance from the fort, at a place called the "Barrier." When at midnight they heard the approach of the enemy. "Je mette mon fusil à mon bras," he said; "et à le Francais je di, Prenez—garde! A le Prusse"—hesitating—"Prenez garde! aussi, et nous faissons un grande detour,—et—et, nous eschappons. Et voila, monsieur," he continued, pointing to the stripes upon his arm, "Je suis sous officier donc. Je suis caporal de la garde,—le meme comme Napoleon,—le petit Caporal." With a hearty laugh we bade "le petit Caporal" bon nuit, and returned to our hotel, asking ourselves what need there could be for the Philosopher's Stone, whilst there existed such a talisman as Conceit?

The Javanese are called Malays, whilst the inhabitants of the neighboring island of Sumatra also claim the same appellation. From their rules for government, their religion, and other distinctive marks, I would consider them connected with the Arabian race.

Polygamy is permitted amongst them, and they are allowed to possess wives according to their means. Ouseman, our compradore, and a rajah, told me he had three, all living peaceably together at his house. Think of that, ye of the Caucasian race, who, with more means, find it difficult to get along with one, and in a colder climate too!

Came upon a Chinaman here, a real Fa-qui, tail, costume and all, and for aught I know may have seen the individual before, for he informed me that he had been to the United States—"America" he called them—and had sojourned in Boston, and this too with as strict regard to the memory of Lindley Murray, and in as good English as we have heard from many a denizen of that second Athens. He also proved that he had profited by his residence abroad, for he cheated us entirely to our satisfaction, and with such a grace as almost to make us fear he was robbing himself, and only exchanged his articles for our coin, out of respect for our country. These Chinese are truly said to be an imitative people.

They have a place of worship here, called a Mosque, where I was told the Prophet was worshipped. Hearing, one night, a great noise within its sacred precincts, I ventured in,—not without many mutterings of dissatisfaction from the Malays assembled at its threshold,—and looked upon a large room dimly lighted, without any visible presence of the Prophet, although a large chair was raised in the centre of it for him to rest upon, and a parcel of half-clad wretches were grovelling around its feet, with cries piteous enough to have brought him down even from the lap of the most beautiful of his dark-eyed houris, had he one-half of that humanity for which his worshippers gave him credit. I was told that these were sick persons, and their friends, praying for relief:—a very commendable thing in a place where there were none but commissioned surgeons, provided Mahomet has as much skill in medicine now, as he possessed over these gentlemen in his methods of amputation when he practised here below.

Visited the market-place, called Bazaar. Found all kinds of tropical fruits in great abundance: cocoanuts, bananas, plantains, mangusteens, &c. &c., and what proved its general use, at every stall, large quantities of the betel-nut were exposed for sale. This nut is used for its exhilarating properties, and is chewed as is tobacco; but whether its juice is swallowed, I cannot say. It blackens the teeth, and must prove very efficacious in destroying the enamel. Indeed, from the practice they have of filing their teeth across, and the use of this acid, it is a wonder that any thing should remain but blackened stumps.

Watered ship here, from a reservoir, supplied by an aqueduct from the mountains, a distance of some leagues. The water is good, and the supply appears sufficient, although I cannot commend the construction of the channel through which it is brought. It is of stone, and stuccoed, raised about two feet from the level of the road, and open at the top. During a short walk along this road, I saw numbers of Malay women using its waters for the purpose of ablution; and I could not count the number of the various reptiles of this prolific clime, who, lured by their deceitful flow, had met a watery death.

To show the economy of its construction, I may state, that it is brought across a small stream, through bamboo troughs, so loosely attached that sufficient water is wasted in its passage to turn a small mill in Yankee land.

The first day of June weighed anchor, and stood up the Straits; and a busy time, too, we had in getting through. It was "Let go the anchor!" "Furl sails!" "All hands up anchor!" "Make sail!" for several days. At last, this channel and the Straits of Gaspar being passed, we entered safely the China Sea.

CHAPTER IV.

China Sea​—​Anchor off Macào​—​Canton River​—​Whampoa​—​Trip to Canton​—​The San-pan​—​Pagodas​—​Lob Creek​—​Salt Junks​—​Description of a Junk​—​Mandarin, or Search Boats​—​Pirates​—​Crowded state of River at Canton​—​Land at Factory Stairs​—​Visit Vice-Consul​—​New China Street​—​A Cow-House​—​Wonders of Canton​—​Factory Gardens​—​Water Parties​—​Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs​—​Dock-yard at Whampoa​—​American Missionary at Newtown​—​Bethel, and its Pastor​—​Fourth of July​—​Back to Macào​—​The Typa​—​The Barrier.

The southwest monsoon wafted us quietly and quickly over the China Sea, and upon the nineteenth of June we came to anchor off Macào, in the outer roads. Not finding the flag-ship there, as was expected, after taking in some provisions from the naval depôt, weighed anchor, and proceeded up the Canton River to Whampoa, where we moored ship in the "American Reach" to undergo necessary repairs. Whilst these were going on, I procured a "fast boat," and went up to Canton, about nine miles above that part of the "Reach" in which we lay.

These boats—the "San-pan," or boat of this country—are used expressly for the conveyance of passengers and their effects, and are kept scrupulously clean for that purpose. They pull from three to six oars, according to their size. The oarsmen are all seated forwards, whilst a woman, generally with a child fastened to her back, both propels and steers with a long oar from the stern, which she manages with great dexterity, appearing to work harder, and with better effect, than her lazy lord, (who has generally the bow oar,) at the same time keeping a bright lookout ahead, and giving warning in her guttural chant of any obstruction.

Passed two Pagodas, each of nine stories, and made a romantic cut-off, via Lob Creek. Soon we came upon a large number of junks at anchor, with huge manilla cables,—one of which our interpreter pointed out as "Salt Junk." We had seen enough of that during our passage out, but this kind of junk interested us; for a more clumsy piece of naval architecture could hardly have been invented to annoy the eye of a sailor. With her perpendicular masts of one stick, no bowsprit, only an opening where it should be, to receive an anchor, made of part of a crooked tree; poop sticking up like a game fowl's tail, and immense red and white eyes painted on each bow:—for the Chinese sailor says: "No have eyes, how can see? no can see, how can walkee?"—make such a picture of a thing to float in, and wherewith to transport worldly effects, that the question naturally arises, What would be the probable per centage a Chinese underwriter would demand as premium to insure in such a bottom? Indeed, I must do the memory of the patriarch Noah the justice to believe, that his craft was put together with a better adaptation to the principles of flotation than this, or it would never have lived through that gale of forty days and forty nights, logged in the Good Book.

Soon, however, we came across some better-looking specimens, which we were told were the "Mandarin," or "Search Boats," belonging to the Chinese Customs. Their models appeared better adapted to "make walkee," and, in addition to sails, they had double banks of oars.

At what I took to be the Navy Yard, saw some English hulls, which had been built upon, and which, in spite of all this eccentric people could do to change their appearance, still looked ship-shaped. There were also some sharp-looking junks being built, which I was told were to be fitted out against the pirates; but, if what I afterwards learned be true, they were more likely to become piratical craft themselves; for it was reported that the person to whose charge they were to have been consigned had been extensively engaged in that business himself, until he was interfered with by the English, who broke up his fleet; and that now he had humbugged the Chinese government into giving him another. At least, so ran the rumor.

As we approached the Factories, it seemed almost impossible to make our way through the immense number of boats and other craft which appeared to play hide-and-seek amongst the larger junks moored in every direction in the stream; but, thanks to the skill of our female pilot, we avoided all collision, and brought up safely at the Factory stairs. It was excessively hot; and as we walked across the Factory Gardens to the Consulate, the effects of the sun upon the clean glossy walks was painful to the eyes.

After paying our respects to the Vice-Consul, took a short turn up New China Street to make a few necessary purchases, and then threaded our way back to Acow's Hotel,—facetiously termed by one of the party who had the remembrances of dainty spreads at the "Astor" and "Irving House" in his mind, "a cow house!"

Here we had "tiffin,"—Anglice, lunch,—and then disposed ourselves as well as we could for comfort and cool air, neither of which did we obtain; nor what our parched throats so loudly called for,—cool water. Acow had no ice; so our only recourse was to procure bottles of "aerated water,"—we called it "Pop," in our ignorance, and to send them where truth is said to reside,—the bottom of a well.

As the sun declined, walked out to view the wonders of Canton; and although it was Sunday, found the streets thronged with coolies carrying heavy burdens of merchandise, slung on bamboos resting on their shoulders, plying backwards and forwards on their different errands, in a jog trot, with a loud grunt;—the grunt as much to relieve them, as to give warning to those in their way. Passed through different streets in the neighborhood of the Factories, all composed of shops, from which long-tailed Chinamen rushed out, chinchinning, and soliciting our custom. These streets have a great similarity, and a description of one would answer for all. With the exception of some that are devoted to the sale of particular articles, as the Street of Tailors, and Curiosity Street, they differ only in the appearance of the article exposed for sale. They are quite narrow and used only by pedestrians. The only quadruped I recollect seeing in them was a diminutive jackass, standing before a shop in "Old China Street." How he came there, or for what purpose, I could not determine. It may have been out of compliment to the "Foreign Devils," that his long ears were exhibited; but if his position was illusive, in one relation it failed; for, despite these appendages, the beast did not enter the shop.

The gardens I found the most attractive. They are in front of the different factories, and over them floats the flag of the nation, opposite its respective consulate. They cover several acres, and are well laid out, planted with every variety of tree and shrub, and are kept in admirable order. Formerly, I understood, there had been a partition wall between the English and American portions, but this had lately been removed, as I hope may be all causes of division between the two governments.

Towards evening these gardens are frequented by nearly all of the European population, who stroll about to enjoy the breezes from the water after the heat of the day.

A number of Parsees are daily to be seen, with their long, white, and scrupulously clean linen surtouts, turbans, or else bugshaped caps, wide trousers, just appearing beneath their white coats (an improvement on the Bloomer costume, I thought), and shoes pointed at the toes with pieces of some kind of metal, turned up, after the fashion of what the boys call "high dutch" in skates, at home.

Witnessed the worship of one of this strange sect, and his devotions to his fire god in his setting, appeared as sincere, at least, as those of many, who consider themselves more favored in being able to look "through nature, up to nature's God."

A Fanqui, or foreigner, finds himself much circumscribed in his peregrinations about Canton. With the few narrow streets above mentioned, and the open space in front of the factories, he must fain be content; but upon the water his way is more open, and the European and American residents avail themselves of the broad river to launch and sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats, san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury. In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of the sun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars and conversation.

Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests are almost continually engaged in "chin chinnings," and where are kept some holy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I should think of holding sacred.

There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of a visit, but these I had no opportunity to see.

After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr. C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.

Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.

The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is true, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of being hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.

Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops, all the "same same," as in Canton.

Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged with several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he was exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It was a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying to unpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remained mysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, illustrated by a ship rising above the horizon—the sidereal system, and the eclipses of the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being very dense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, for they have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder god," and other deities similar to those worshipped by the more classical heathen of Rome and Greece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, but finds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so strongly implanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I should have earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, and appears to convey his ideas with much fluency.

There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel," anchored in the "Reach," which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I had the pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "And by one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin." In the course of his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deaths of those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news of which had just reached us by mail.

Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters and seamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. cannot doubt but that he will have great success with this class of men.

The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to public worship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirable adaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besides apartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number of foreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roof was flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed a fine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have been planned ashore, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortable quarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance of many an hour passed pleasantly.

The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay in Whampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags, and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to the officers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach," which passed off very pleasantly. The usual quantity of champagne and patriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generally conceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face of the globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people.

Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill down the river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantage of the tide, got into the bay and headed for Macào. Found the flagship at anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating with the Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there.

The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from an island which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and a half fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very large vessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen have gone in. They are now forced, if stopping at Macào, to anchor outside, abreast the town, and some four or five miles off.

Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of a cut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to Macào.

The city of Macào, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, from the name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon by the Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island of Heang-Shan.

After the discovery of the passage to the East Indies around the Cape of Good Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, the Portuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by the Chinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained a foothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, and commenced the foundation of a city.

About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with Japan, China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre of an extensive trade, which increased until Macào grew into a place of considerable importance.

The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to the Portuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed many restrictions upon them. The point upon which Macào stands, is almost separated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of about three hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, a wall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers, and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pass; and their municipal government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed there in 1573.

When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wall thrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more barriers than this, previous to his murder—of which, anon.

CHAPTER V.

Passage Ashore​—​A-ti​—​The Praya​—​Forts​—​Governor's Road​—​Description of Macào​—​Murder of Amaral​—​Manoeuvring of Seu and his Triumph​—​A new Governor​—​His Death​—​Council of Government​—​View from Guia Fort​—​Marques' Garden​—​Camoen's Grotto​—​Epitaph and Doggerel written there​—​A Beautiful Spot​—​Stealing Fire from the Gods​—​Fate of Prometheus.

Leaving the Typa in a fast boat, we were soon opposite the town, when we were obliged to re-embark on board one of a fleet of Tanka boats, which put out from the shore as soon as our buttons were discovered. Tanka means eggboat; they resemble an eggshell divided longitudinally, and are peculiar to Macào, the shoalness of the water preventing a landing in larger vessels. Were captured by A-ti, a laughing Chinese nymph, with a splendid set of the whitest teeth, and landed safely on the Praya, after purchasing our ransom with a Spanish coin, in value twenty-five cents.

The Praya is a fine promenade, extending in a semi-circle along the entire front of the city. On each of its points is a fortification, and at its right extremity the Plaza. On the part which winds past the Plaza, are placed stone seats, which are of a nature to retain much of the caloric dispensed by the sun during the hot days in summer.

This walk is well paved, with a stanch sea wall to protect it from the waves, which come in with considerable force, especially in the Typhoon season. It commands a view of the neighboring islands, the Typa and outer roads.

Back of the town, and overlooking it, is a hill, on which is placed an extensive work, called Fort Monte, which not only commands the town but the approaches from its rear.

From beyond the Campo gate, a fine, smooth, and well graded carriage way extends to the "Barrier;" and to the right of the "Gate," on an eminence, stands a well placed fort having guns bearing upon the Barrier.

There appear, indeed, to be forts wherever one can be stuck, and the wonder in regard to some of them is, how they ever got the guns into them, so inaccessible do they seem.

On the Governor's road, about three fourths of a mile from the town, is a fine garden, belonging to a French Abbè. It is arranged with much taste: in its centre was a small mosque-like temple, whilst at each corner of the enclosure were towers of the same style. The road is the favorite promenade and drive, and upon it, at the season when we were there, were to be seen some very fine equipages, principally belonging to persons from Hong-Kong and Canton.

Macào, like other Portuguese towns, has many churches and its quantum of priests. The cathedral is the best looking building, although not so large as some of the others. It had lately been repaired, and both internally and externally presented a gay and gaudy appearance, in strong contrast with the decayed condition of the houses surrounding it.

There is the ruin of the church of "Mater Dei," which had been destroyed by fire, the entire front of which still stands, covered with carving, a majestic monument of the pride and power of Rome.

The other churches, although their interiors are kept in some repair for the purpose of worship, have crumbling and mouldering walls, proving that "Tempus, edax rerum" has not spared them, and in the absence of rejuvenating art, still uses his remorseless tooth upon the softening stone.

Indeed, what strikes the stranger most sadly and forcibly as he saunters through the streets, is the universal evidence of decay. It is melancholy to see buildings, which must once have been magnificent, slowly sinking into rain. The mind cannot help picturing these buildings, brilliant with beauty, and resounding with festivity, when Macào was the depôt for the trade with China, with a fleet of all nations filling its harbor, and its storehouses teeming with the rich merchandise of the East.

But British perseverance, and Yankee enterprise, have asserted the supremacy of the Anglo-Saxon race, and the vessels, which formerly made this their port after their voyage around the Cape, now discharge and receive their cargoes at Whampoa and Hong-Kong, whilst only occasionally the masts of a man of war, or of some straggling merchantman, are to be seen in the harbor of Macào.

The murder of Amaral in 1849, is said to have produced a prejudicial effect upon the interests of Macào, but I cannot see how that could have influenced it in this manner, as the difficulty had not extended to open war, and a Chinaman would have been willing to trade if he found it profitable, even should such have been the case; and had the Portuguese artillery been echoing amongst the rocky hills of Ou-moon, you would have found him seeking the almighty dollar

"Even at the cannon's mouth."

The particulars of the Governor's murder, as I could obtain them, are these: Ioao Maria Ferreira do Amaral, Governor of the provinces of Macào, Timor, and Solor, was assassinated near the "Barrier," on the 22d day of August, 1849. It appeared by the confession of Chang-asin, alias Chou-asin, that an acquaintance of his, named Shing-Chi-liang, on account of the Governor having made roads without the Campo gates, by which the graves of his ancestors were destroyed, was so enraged thereat, that he determined to murder him in order to satisfy his revenge. For the purpose of assisting in this design he hired two Chinese, Ko-Ahong and Li-Apau, and charged Chou-asin, together with two other Chinamen, Chou-ayan and Chen-afat, to act as guards to prevent people from approaching. To this they all agreed, and hearing that the Governor would go out on that day for recreation, proceeded to waylay him.

Towards evening, when it was twilight, Shing-Chi-liang seeing Amaral, the Governor, approach on horseback, went up to him under the pretence that he had a petition to hand him, saying that he had a complaint to prefer, and whilst Amaral was stretching out his hand to receive the paper, Shing-Chi-liang drew a sharp knife he had concealed in the handle of his umbrella, and commenced stabbing him in the arm and shoulder, until he fell from his horse, when Shing-Chi-liang immediately cut off his head and hand, and they all ran, each his own way. Chou-ayan and Chen-afat were killed in an engagement with the English, having, with himself, fled to Hiang-Kang, a seaport, from whence they went over to the pirates, and he was afterwards seized by the Chinese government and taken to Canton, where, after making this confession, he prayed for mercy.

A long and not very amicable correspondence was held by a Portuguese Council of Government, formed at Macào upon Amaral's death, and Seu, Governor-General at Canton, in which the Council demanded the head and hand of their murdered Governor, and Seu required in return three Chinese soldiers, (arrested by the Portuguese authorities at the Barrier gate after the murder, and detained in prison at Macào, as accessory to the deed,) as an exchange for the remains of the Governor. The Council denounced this demand as infamous, denied the soldiers, and put the question to Seu, if he intended to keep possession of these mutilated remains of a brave man, cowardly slain, because he is conscious of having acquired them by means which, in his judgment, give him a right to traffic with them, regardless of constituting himself by this act a participator in the crime which gave them into his possession; also adding, that, protesting against his conduct, they would hold him responsible for the assassination of the Most Excellent Governor Amaral, and for the retention of his hand and head, which they would make known to the world by means of a manifesto.

Seu answered, that the murderer of Amaral, Shing-Chi-liang, had been apprehended, tried, sentenced, and executed.

That in consequence of his confession, the place where the head and hand had been buried was discovered, and that a deputed officer had been sent to deliver them up, but the council still detaining the three soldiers apprehended at the Barrier, the officer did not dare to take upon himself the responsibility, and concludes his dispatch, with true Chinese sententiousness, in these words: "Here is the cause of the delay and of this confusion. All things should be managed with reflection, and in a proper way. Obstinacy cannot bring affairs to a conclusion," &c., &c.

Upon the 29th of the November succeeding, the Council published their manifesto, in which Seu and the Chinese authorities are accused of connivance in the murder of Amaral. This, Seu, who is evidently not to be written down, answers by accounting for the disposal of the murderer of the Governor, and his accomplices, and sends the confession of Chou-asin. Matters remained in this position until the 24th of December of the same year, when the Macào Council sent the three Chinese prisoners to Seu, and assuming that these men, on duty at the time at the Barrier, were at least cognizant of the murder of Amaral, demand their trial, informing Seu at the same time, that in placing them in his hands, they hold him responsible for them. When Seu had obtained these men, after some delay, he sends the head and hand, which were delivered to a commission appointed by the Council to receive them, on board a Lorcha, off the Praya Grande. They were conveyed to the cathedral, and after funeral service had been performed, placed in consecrated ground with solemn ceremony. Thus His Excellency Governor-General Sen gained his point. What became of the three Chinamen I did not learn, but suppose they were allowed to escape.

A new governor was commissioned and sent out in the Portuguese corvette Don Joas Primero. Pedro Alexandrino da Cunha, captain in the royal navy, reached Macào on the second of May, 1850, and immediately assumed the reins of government.

It was now supposed that something more efficacious than writing would be resorted to; but he died very suddenly on the sixth of July following, within about one month before the anniversary of the assassination of his predecessor. A singular coincidence.

Some have been bold enough to assert that his sudden demise was to be attributed to the effects of poison administered by Chinese servants, bribed by their government, but I think that the report of his death from cholera is correct.

After the death of Da Cunha, the administration of government devolved again upon the "Council," of which D. Jeronimo Joze de Matta, Bishop of the Province, was the head, assisted by a Chief Justice, Mayor, Judge, Procurator, and Fiscal.

This was not very popular, as what government can be, to a declining people, who will not exert themselves, but complain to Hercules, without putting their own shoulders to the wheel.

The walks in the neighborhood of Macào are pleasant, and the views very fine; among the best are those from Penha hill on the southern point of the peninsula, and Guia fort on its northern side. From the latter position the entire possessions of this Portuguese province can be comprised at a glance, and Macào lies beneath you a miniature city, with pigmies moving along the Praya and its principal streets. This fort, from its commanding position, is used as a telegraphic station, and news of any unusual event is communicated to the town by signals.

From its elevated ramparts the eye takes in the course of the Hong-shan, or "Broadway;" Casa Branca; Ilha Verda; Camoen's grotto; the Barrier and Barrier forts; the harbors, both inner and outer; the Lapa hills, and numerous islands, as far as it can reach.

Camoen's grotto is situated on an eminence within the grounds of a Portuguese gentleman, Senhor L. Marques, which, without the attraction which would draw one to the poet's place of meditation, are themselves well worthy of a visit.

I went there in company with some Peruvian gentlemen, and was at first doubtful of the propriety of trespassing upon private property, but my scruples being overcome by my curiosity, and the assurance of one of the Peruvians that his acquaintance with the Senhor Marques would be a sufficient passport, we proceeded.

Upon passing his mansion, and sending up our cards, learned from a Coolie of the absence of its master, and entered unhesitatingly upon his grounds. Descending a few steps we came to a splendid aviary placed in the centre of the avenue. It was about fifteen feet in diameter and twenty in height, and contained quite a variety of beautiful birds.

The grounds are very extensive, covering entirely one of the hills upon which Macào is built, and are well laid out in broad smooth avenues fringed with rare trees and shrubs, but

"Each walk was green as is the mantled pool
For want of human travel."

After walking some distance, had to ascend a path, which leading along a dividing wall, brought us over the roofs of the Chinese houses in the town below, and reminded us of the position of "Le diable boiteux" of Le Sage, although I doubted if we could have gained as much information as that personage did, had we possessed his powers. From this part of the garden is a fine view of the inner harbor and the Praya Manduco. Still ascending, upon the highest point found Camoen's grotto. It had originally been an arched rock, but part of the arch giving way, has been walled into a square enclosure, in which a pedestal of corresponding proportions has been placed which sustains a bust of the great Portuguese poet. Upon tablets set in the four sides of the pedestal are inscribed appropriate verses from his poem—the Lusiad; whilst in another place upon a stone set in the rock, is an epitaph in the French language, but the most appropriate sentiment was expressed in this couplet pencilled on the side of the grotto:

"Sad poet! 'twas thy fate, alas, to be
Not less the child of fame than misery."

Another poet degenerated into doggerel, and desecrated the spot by the following impromptu, which, as he had the delicacy not to scribble on Camoen's Cave, I transcribe for his benefit.

"Oh, clear Camoens! what a time you had
Bounding 'the Cape' to write the Lusiad:
But you got fame, and I should have some too,
For didn't I come round the Cape as well as you?
So, if you now in glowing numbers shine,
Did I not right (?) when twice I've crossed the Line?
But keep your laurels, poet, any how
Your song is sad—'twas written at Macào."

The spot was well chosen for meditation, and imagination carried me back to the time when the exiled child of genius was seated here, and "gave to airy nothing a local habitation and a name."

Returning, as we passed a house occupied by a Chinaman who had supervision of the grounds, one of the party lighted his cheroot from a joss stick burning before the Chinaman's joss, and was reminded of a certain Prometheus, who in olden times was said to have filched fire from the heathen deities, but for a nobler purpose, and having been convicted of this flaming larceny, had for his punishment "the Vulture and the Rock," which fate I deprecated for my friend; although should he remain long in this climate, I could not answer for the state of his liver.

Poor fellow! little did I then think so soon to hear of his death. A few months after he was murdered in a revolt of Coolies on board a ship in which he was returning to Peru.

CHAPTER VI.

Up the Canton River again​—​Bay of Canton​—​Bocca Tigris​—​Forts at the Bogue​—​Their Construction​—​Conduct of Chinese when Attacked​—​The Feast of Lanterns​—​the Rebellion​—​Paddy Fields and Mosquitoes​—​Back to Typa​—​Pleasant Times​—​Blowing up of a Frigate!

A rebellion had broken out in the province adjoining that of Kwang-tung; and as the insurgents had made rapid advances towards the capital, our consul there thought our presence in the neighborhood might prove beneficial to American interests. It was again, "All hands up anchor," to proceed up the Canton River, and away we steered, past the towering island of Lin-tin, towards the Bocca Tigris.

Macào may be said to be situated in the Bay of Canton; for these are all islands until you pass through the "Bogue."

Bocca Tigris was the name given to the eastern channel of the entrance to the Pearl, or Canton River,—a near translation of the Chinese name Hoo-tow-mun (Tiger's Head Passage). The pilots call it Foo-mun.

There is a fort on Anunghoy Point, and two others on the western channel on the North Wang-tong island; also the office of Hoppo, Collector of Customs, where pilots are forced to show their "chops."

There are also quite a number of Chinese forts in the neighborhood of the "Bogue;" but they did not appear to be manned, although quite a number of old rusty guns were sticking through their embrasures.

Some of these forts are very extensive; that is, their walls enclose a considerable area; but they are badly constructed as places of defence, having a greater part of their interior exposed, which cannot be helped, as their walls mostly run up the sides of steep hills, in which no excavations have been made. They present, however, quite a picturesque appearance, and add greatly to the effect of this otherwise uninteresting part of the river.

Many amusing tales are told of the conduct of their defenders when the British vessels attacked them; and how, when a shell was thrown into them, the Chinamen scattered in every direction, through their ports, and every other available means of exit, exclaiming, "Ei-yah, how can make shoot two time?"

Went up again to Canton, to the Consulate, and learned there that the rebels had not advanced much farther, having stopped to plunder, whilst Seu, the Governor-General, was preparing a large force to oppose them. Found great preparations making for a festival, which my duties did not allow me to see, but which those who witnessed it described as truly magnificent. They called it the Feast of Lanterns. From what I saw have no doubt but that it must have been so at night, when the immense number of chandeliers, candelabra, lanterns, and other arrangements for making an illumination, were lighted.

There were also images as large as life stuck over the gates of different streets, and upon platforms crossing them, with paintings of movable figures strung across them, Sing-Song houses, &c. &c. If you add to this an immense multitude of fantastically-dressed Chinamen, each carrying a lighted lantern richly ornamented, the coup d'œil will be better imagined than I can describe.

The celebration was kept up three nights, and the crowd assembled was immense; so great, indeed, that those who were enabled to gratify their curiosity did so with much wear and tear of clothing, and considerable loss of buttons.

In the meanwhile the valiant Seu had started to chastise the insolent disturbers of the peace of the "Central Flowery Land;" and being determined to expedite his work, took with him a high and learned judge, to condemn the vagabonds, and doubtless executioners to dispose of them.

We remained in Whampoa Reach, awaiting the issue, amidst the delightful odors of decaying paddy fields, and lulled to rest by the harmonious music of myriads of mosquitoes.

During this grand convulsion of the Chinese empire, it was delightful to notice the regularity with which our Chinese compradore, Ayooke, supplied the ship with provisions, and how little he appeared to know or care about the matter. I thought him then a great philosopher, but changed my opinion when I learned that these affairs are of common occurrence in the Chinese empire, especially at the commencement of a new reign, and that the authorities know as well how to manage them, as police officers to put down a row in Ann Street, Boston; and even better, for they have a golden remedy, which long experience has taught them how to apply.

After remaining one month at Whampoa, and a large proportion of the crew getting on the sick-list, we were at length allowed to leave for our old anchorage in the Typa, where we learned that the puissant Sen, his generals, and his judges, had quenched the revolt, and the misguided wretches, whom he had in pity spared, were sorrowfully retracing their steps. But one thing I noticed in his extended and flowery report, that quite a number of his officers were degraded, and heavy fines imposed upon them for alleged misconduct; thus proving in China, as throughout the world, that the larger fish consume the smaller fry, and increase greatly in consequence.

Found the change of position very agreeable, the fine bracing air from the sea acting like a charm upon the invalids, and driving away those wandering minstrels, the mosquitoes. Besides, there was the daily trip on shore in the "fast boat," available to those whose duties would allow it. The pleasant walk along the "Praya," or on the Governor's Road, and the generally delightful sail off to the ship at nine o'clock, on some of those beautiful moonlight evenings, when with but a gentle breeze to waft us smoothly over the placid waters, we could recline in our commodious boat, and puffing the mild cheroot (a privilege not the less valued because it was later than the regulations permitted smoking on board), we looked upon those gentle beams, and thought kindly of those friends beneath our feet, upon whom they might fall to-morrow, "wind and weather permitting," and a sweet face would glisten upon us from the undulating wave, and "Boat a-hoy!" from the watchful quartermaster would bring us back to reality and the ship; overboard would go our magical cheroot, over the side our imaginative self, and having duly reported the important fact of our return on board, down we would dive through the steerage hatch, to conjure up again in dreams the dear face we saw in the moonlighted wave.

Our anchorage in the Typa was the same we had occupied on our first visit, and was very eligible, being protected by Typa island from the sea. Upon the point of this island nearest to us stood a fort, named after the island; and a little more than a cable's length from our moorings lay the Portuguese frigate Donna Maria Segunda, of thirty-eight guns, commanded by Captain Francisco d'Assis e Silva.

Affairs had been pursuing their usual routine, when upon the evening of the twenty-eighth of October a boat boarded us from the frigate, under charge of an officer, who brought an invitation from Captain D'Assis to join with him on the twenty-ninth in the celebration of the birthday of the King Consort of Portugal, upon which occasion it was his intention to dress his ship, and fire a national salute at meridian. Of course, an assent was given; and accordingly at eight o'clock the next morning, every thing having been previously prepared, we broke stops with the frigate, and thus bedecked, both vessels made a gallant show.

We had dressed perpendicularly, whilst she had her flags fore and aft, running up to her flying jib-boom from the water, and down to the gaff on her mizzen. The frigate had been newly painted, and looked upon this occasion exceedingly well, her neat appearance being the subject of general remark.

We lay thus, side by side, until meridian, when she fired a well-timed salute, in which we joined; and every thing remained quiet, until about twenty minutes past two, when a report was heard resembling the discharge of a whole broadside of double-shotted guns, and a shock communicated as though we had received their contents.

The water was forced through the air-ports, splashed over the spar-deck, and dashed down the hatches. The first and general impression was, that the frigate had fired into us. On rushing upon deck, nothing could be distinguished, for we were completely enveloped in a dense cloud of flame and smoke. For a minute or two nothing could be determined. At length an old quartermaster sung out, "The frigate has blown up!" I ascended the poop, and looking towards her moorings, saw all that remained of the "Donna Maria Segunda,"—a part of her stern-frame, just above water, and burning. Where once had pointed her tall spars, so proudly decked with the flags of all nations, no trace remained. She was the most complete wreck that could be imagined. The water was covered for acres with her fragments, and her masts and spars were shivered to splinters.

Our boats were instantly alongside the wreck, and took from it, and picked out of the water, ten persons in all, of whom two were Chinamen. Amongst these was the young officer who had boarded us the previous evening, with the invitation to join in the celebration,—a fine-looking man. He had been drawn from under the capstan, which had been blown aft, was horribly mutilated, and had doubtless nearly all his bones broken, besides sustaining internal injuries. He died like a hero upon our quarter-deck, without a groan.

The crew of the Donna Maria was said to have been composed of two hundred and forty souls; but there were some sick in the hospital at Macào, and a few absent on leave and duty. They had, however, some Chinese on board, not mustered as the crew, carpenters, and other artisans, and some prisoners from a French bark, the "Chili." I consider the number killed by this catastrophe may be fairly set down as two hundred!

The commandant, d'Assis, perished with his vessel. His body was found two days after, dragging astern, he having been blown through the stern port, and caught in a sail. His remains were carried to Macào, and buried with military honors, our officers assisting at the ceremony. His son, a young Aspirante, or Midshipman, was ashore at the time. A lieutenant was in charge of the "Typa Fort," and the surgeon in Macào, at their hospital. The other officers were principally on board the frigate.

Our commander, with others, had received an invitation to dine on board, but the time had been fortunately postponed.

At the precise moment of the explosion on board the "Donna Maria," we were probably as near as it would have been possible to have been in our relative moorings, lying broadside on, but a little astern of her; our starboard battery could have been brought to bear a point forward of the beam; and this very proximity was doubtless the cause of our escaping serious injury. Two of her heavy guns passed entirely over us, clearing our royal masts, and falling into the water about twenty feet on our port beam. Our main deck awning was spotted, as if a shower of blood had passed over it. Some shot, pieces of lead, fragments of spars, and the brains and entrails of the sufferers were lodged in the tops, and other parts of our ship. The gig was stove, but her keeper escaped without injury; another boat-keeper was not so fortunate, an iron bolt striking him on the knee, and maiming him for life.

A gun carriage was thrown past us into the fort, breaking through the roof, and falling directly in the place where an officer had been seated writing, but a few moments before.

After the explosion a number of smaller ones took place, and then the remains of the ill-fated frigate burned to the water's edge.

Her magazine was said to have contained eighteen thousand pounds of powder. Three hundred barrels of sixty pounds each, for which orders came out a few days later, to be stowed in the magazine in Macào, and the frigate to proceed to Lisbon.

The disaster was attributed to design. The gunner was said to have fired the magazine for revenge.

It was said that only a few days previous, he had been severely reprimanded by the Captain, for some neglect of duty, and that the Captain had pulled his beard.

Afterwards he told his messmates that he could not survive such an indignity, that he was an old man, and had not long to live, but when he died, others should die too.

This is the way the Portuguese account for the loss of the vessel and her crew.

Out of all those picked up, but one survived! Our own escape can only be attributed to the protecting hand of that Providence, without whose knowledge not even the smallest sparrow can fall to the ground unnoticed.

CHAPTER VII.

Visit Hong-Kong​—​A beautiful Morning​—​Harbor of Hong-Kong​—​Settlement of Victoria​—​Line-of-battle ship Hastings​—​Forecastle logic​—​An arrival from the Northern Seas​—​Her B. M. S. Herald​—​Salutes​—​Description of Victoria​—​Club House​—​Health of Hong-Kong​—​Death vacancies​—​Feasting and Fêtes​—​Ball​—​Pic-Nic​—​Departure from Hong-Kong.

A visit to Hong-Kong had been some time in contemplation, and accordingly on Friday afternoon, twenty-ninth of November, we unmoored, and at three o'clock on Saturday morning, weighed the remaining anchor, and drifted with the ebb towards the entrance of the Typa, but sticking fast on a mud bank, had to wait for the next tide, which luckily bore us off on the afternoon of the same day, when we got out and underway.

Upon one of the most beautiful mornings I had ever seen in this climate, Sunday, the first of December, we were approaching Hong-Kong harbor, with easy tacks, and came to anchor off the town at noon.

The harbor is a very fine one, having sufficient depth to float vessels of the largest size, which is indicated by its color, being of a beautiful blue, and forming a strong contrast to that of the Typa, and the waters around Macào, which are discolored by the debouchment of the Canton river.

It is very wide, and commodious, and completely locked by islands, making, I should think, a safe anchorage in the Tyfoong season.

Hong-Kong is also an island, and was ceded to the British by treaty with the Chinese. The settlement on it was called Victoria, but is generally known by the name of Hong-Kong; in fact, I believe you would puzzle some persons if you should call it by the former name. It extends over much ground, and a towering mountain in its rear, upon the base of which a portion of the town is built, has quite a romantic appearance.

Found in harbor Her British Majesty's line-of-battle ship Hastings, bearing the flag of Admiral Austen, and a number of merchantmen of all nations. One, which lay near us, with the Peruvian flag at her gaff, had painted upon her stern, "Iowa, of San Francisco," and I overheard a conversation between two of the men, on the subject of the apparent anomaly. A forecastleman, addressing a petty officer, inquired how she could hail from San Francisco, then belonging to the United States, and fly the Peruvian flag. "Why, look ye, you nincompoop," was the reply, "can't there be more'n one Jack Jones on the purser's books, and wherefore shouldn't there be more than one San Francisco in the chart of the world? Doesn't it stand to reason, seeing it's a saint's name, and they're all Catholics along that coast, that they should have a Saint Francisco in Peru?"

This reasoning appeared conclusive, as the subject was dropped. But afterwards I learned that she had been purchased in California, and in a few days her nation was made known, by the word Callao filling the place of that of the Golden City on her stern: although her owner appeared to regret that he had been forced to change her flag, as, I understood, he thought he could have done better in an American bottom.

Upon the afternoon of the day of our arrival, H. B. M. ship Herald came in from the North Seas, on her return, having been six years out from England. No news of Sir John Franklin. Found her officers a fine, gentlemanly set, in excellent health and spirits, and apparently glad of a chance of thawing out.

On Monday saluted the Governor, twenty-one guns, which was returned from the "Murray Battery," a field work on shore, gun for gun. Afterwards gave the Admiral a salute of thirteen guns, returned by the "Hastings" with fifteen. This appears to be a British Admiral's salute, although we, having no such rank in our service, are not allowed to give him more guns than we give to our highest naval officer, viz., a Commodore. It may be all correct and proper, considering we have no corresponding rank, but if our government would only view the matter in a proper light, and lay aside petty prejudice, it would put our navy officers upon a par with those of other nations, and by giving them a rank, if only in name, entitle them to the same honors!

What are these officers but representatives of our government abroad, and how are foreign nations to judge of us, but through the weight these officers bear? Appearances and display go a great way with semi-civilized nations!

But I tread upon ground I had intended to avoid, and must step back to a more neutral point—my narrative.

After saluting, official visits were paid to the Governor and Admiral, and I took an opportunity to view the settlement.

There is a striking difference between Macào and Victoria. Here the merchants are princes, and dwell in princely edifices; here is life in the streets, and people move about as if they had an object, and the stranger says at once, "Ah! here is civilization!"

It is true he may not witness the evidence that caused an observing traveller to make such an exclamation upon coming to a gallows; but that proof may not be wanting that human nature requires restraint in all its phases, he will see patrols of policemen with loaded clubs, and Sepoys, having a carbine, or small rifle slung across their shoulders, parading in great profusion.

Another difference will be remarked between this place and Macào, which is, whilst Macào presents its best features in approaching it from seawards, Victoria makes but little show from the water, and if a person were only to have seen it from the harbor, he would set it down as a very inconsiderable place. It is only when you land, and after walking up one of the narrow slips, you pass through a gate into the "Queen's Road," that any thing can be seen of the town. It is true, as I have before stated, that some fine houses may be noticed on the base of the mountain, but upon this road, the principal portion of the town is built, and that cannot be seen from the water, owing to the houses being built down to its edge, having their entrances from the "Road."

This avenue is wide, and well graded, having a fine carriage way and banquettes for pedestrians on either side.

The houses are mostly built of a beautiful light-colored granite, and are of an imposing style of architecture. For a distance of nearly two miles along this principal thoroughfare, you come, every few rods, upon some public or private building that would do credit to any city. There are large, commodious barracks, hospitals, ordnance storehouses, interspersed with the dwellings of merchants, all built of this solid-looking building material.

But the pride of the colony should be its club-house, which is the finest looking building in the place of its style. It is very extensive, and built of blocks of granite, with a splendid front, a façade supported by a number of large granite pillars; and its interior arrangements correspond with its external appearance.

Ascending by steps from the street, you enter, from a wide portico, which extends along the entire front, upon a large open hall, in which are entrances to different apartments—billiard rooms, writing, smoking, and general reception rooms, and the superintendent's apartments. Two wide flights of stairs bring you to the upper story, or au premiér as the French would call it.

Here are a suite of rooms, extending along the whole front, in which are newspapers from all parts of the world, materials and tables for writing, and all kinds of couches, divans, &c., for lounging. You can step from these rooms upon a magnificent balcony, corresponding with the porch below, where you can enjoy such refreshments as you may be pleased to order, al fresco if you choose.

Another large apartment is used as a restaurant, and in another place is a fine library. Upon the floor above are sleeping apartments, baths, &c., and the attic furnishes rooms for coolies and attendants.

Through the attention of our consul, we had the entrée and use of this desirable place, and never did tired traveller enjoy the friendly welcome of an inn, after a weary journey, more than I did this hall of ease. Like the dove, I had found a resting-place from the waste of waters, and loth, very loth was I to return to my home upon the deep.

With all its attractions, however, Victoria will never become a desirable place of residence, on account of its insalubrity. Macào has very much the advantage over it in this respect, as indeed in every other, where natural causes are considered; and never was the difference between races so apparent as in the position and condition of these two settlements in China.

It cannot but be sickly in Hong-Kong in the summer season, and without entering into explanations of the cause, I merely state the fact, that during the summer of 1850, more than one-third of Her Majesty's fifty-ninth regiment were cut off by diseases incident to the climate. And the remark of an officer attached to Her Majesty's service, that it was a fine place for death vacancies, has more truth than poetry in it, I trow.

We were fêted and feasted here to our heart's content. Among those who were most forward to do us honor, I must mention our own Consul, and Mr. Burd, Consul of the Swedish government. These gentlemen, who did us so much good, need hardly blush for this publicity of their deeds.

The officers of the Hastings gave a grand ball, to which our officers were invited, whilst the "Heralds" proved by their kind attentions that their cruise in the hyperborean regions of the North, had in nowise chilled the warm current of their hearts.

A pic-nic had been gotten up for the eighteenth of December, but the arrival of the mail on that day prevented many from attending, who would otherwise have been glad to have explored the island in pleasant company. As we only waited for our letters, as soon as they were received we were forced to bid a reluctant adieu to hospitable Hong-Kong.

CHAPTER VIII.

China​—​Limited opportunities​—​The Chinese nation compared with others​—​Its antiquity​—​Magnitude of territory and practicability of laws​—​Supposed origin of the Chinese​—​Fables of their early writers​—​Explanation of their exaggerations​—​Foundation of the Empire​—​Chinese traditions compared with sacred history​—​Similarity of events​—​Wise men of the East​—​Introduction of Buddhism​—​Arts and Sciences​—​The Magnetic Needle​—​Discovery of Gunpowder​—​Origin of the name​—​China​—​Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin​—​Parallel between him and Napoleon​—​Religion​—​Confucius​—​The Taouists​—​Buddhism​—​A Buddhist's idea of Heaven.

A chapter descriptive of China may not inappropriately fill up a period, during which I was ill and convalescent at Macào; although, for a person situated as I was, the attempt to describe the character of a people, covering such an extensive portion of the globe (having only had a peep at them through a few of their outermost ports, and these considerably Europeanized), is somewhat like the efforts of one to give an idea of Saint Peter's at Rome, after a single glimpse through its portals.

However, I may venture to speak of these people from what I have seen, fully aware that plenty of more potential pens, held by persons who have lived longer among them, and penetrated their country to a greater extent than I shall ever be able to do, have given their peculiarities to the public.

Another difficulty prevents a better knowledge of their forms and systems, and that is ignorance of their language, and the disposition of those with whom one can communicate to mislead and misinform the inquirer. For much as their interests may lead them to pretend to it, they really have but little respect for the "outside barbarian."

The Chinese are, not only numerically but comparatively, a great people, and their government (the oldest now known) a marvel and a wonder. As a nation, they have consistently carried on their system, whilst other congregations of people, arising successively upon the sea of Time, have spent their force and dashed their sparkling particles upon the shores of Oblivion. They, like the ocean, though occasionally vexed by storms and convulsions, still cover the expanse allotted to them.

The Egyptian, who held the Jew captive, became himself a slave. The "people of God," who broke through and displaced the nations of the plain, vainly opposing their passage to the promised land, themselves at last dispersed, sought refuge throughout the world; when the "Holy City" Jerusalem became in turn a prey to the Roman. And Rome, the mistress of the world! Rome, too, was blotted from the list of nations.

An empire, which, extending from ninety-eight to one hundred and twenty-three degrees of east longitude, and eighteen to forty-two north latitude; bounded on the north by Russia and Siberia, on the east by the great Pacific Ocean; south by the islands (many of them independent powers) which fill the China Sea, and disconnect it from the Indian Ocean; and westward by the independent Tartar nations, covering with its dependent provinces an area of five millions of square miles, of which only about one-fourth is included within the geographical limits of China proper, governs, at the present time, a population of four hundred millions of souls (a proportion of one-third of the estimated inhabitants of the globe), with a code of laws which has been handed down from the earliest ages of which we have a knowledge.

Situated on a continent, supposed to have been selected by the Creator as the spot on which to place the first of the human race; upon which, as is told in holy writ, at the Divine command, light first burst upon the world, it is singular that this part of Asia should so long have remained in darkness, and that even now conjecture loses itself in searching for the origin of this peculiar people.

If we take the first book of the Pentateuch for our guide, we must come to the conclusion, that in the confusion of tongues at the building of Babel, when the Lord said, as is described in the eleventh chapter of that book, "Let us go down and there confound their language, so that they may not understand one another's speech;" "and from thence the Lord did scatter them abroad upon the face of the earth;" that this nation formed a portion of those presumptuous builders, who, in their migrations, settled down upon the banks of the Yellow River, and there multiplying, gradually peopled this vast surface.

Their early traditions, indeed, appear to extend beyond the period of the flood, and from these the "dark idolater of chance," who would rejoice to prove that "Book of Books" a splendid fable, draws his deductions. But how he fails. The learned men of China, those held in the greatest repute amongst a people where such a reputation is not easily obtained, themselves admit, that the history of their empire in its infancy, is, for the most part, apocryphal, and that the myths of these early writers are only to be considered as such, and are not to affect its chronology.

Indeed, the character of the language, when it refers to superior powers, has such a tendency to exaggeration, as to afford great facilities to those who would construe it to suit this particular purpose.[1]

The Chinese historians speak of their Celestial Emperor, who reigned forty-five thousand years! They also name a Terrestrial Emperor, whose reign extended eighteen thousand years! And they had, in addition, a Human Emperor, who occupied the throne for the same period, in succession. There is then their fabulous period, which commences with the creation of man, when Pwan-Koo (First Man) was produced. After which the Celestial Emperor, Teen-Hwang-She, "Imperial Heaven," settled the years, taking eighteen thousand years to perform this task. Succeeded by Te-Hwang-She, "Royal Earth,"—who is said to have devoted the same period to fix the months. After Royal Earth comes Jin-Hwang-She,—"Sovereign Man,"—who divided the land, and was forty-five thousand years about it.

Following the string of their traditions, we come down to two thousand three hundred and fifty-six years before Christ, when was founded the first dynasty,—that of Te-yaou,—according to their chronology, Hea being Emperor, or Chief, as De Guignes rationally supposes. This is about the time of the dispersion of the human family, and, I think, the proper date for the birth of this nation. Let that be as it may, there is a great similarity between their traditions and our sacred record. Their first man was produced by superior power, and was placed over the inferior animals.

In the reign of Te-yaou there was an account of a great flood. Shortly after, wine was discovered, and its intoxicating effects found out in the reign of Fohi, who answers the description of Noah. Then came a prince noted for his fondness for hunting, who was contemporary with Nimrod. And there was a seven years' drought, like that described in Genesis, ch. xli.

Another singular coincidence in their chronology, which I may be allowed to refer to before dismissing this part of the subject, is the fact set down by one of their historians, that in the fifty-fifth year of the forty-fifth cycle, the Emperor Ming-te, in about the tenth year of his reign, sent messengers to look for "the holy man of the West." Now this period corresponds with the commencement of the Christian era: and allowing for discrepancies unavoidable in such a calculation, could it not have been possible that a faint glimmering of the "Star of Bethlehem" had crossed this monarch's vision, and that, but for their dilatory footsteps, these ambassadors of the Chinese Emperor might have knelt by the side of those other "wise men of the East," who were guided by its beams to the cradle of the infant Saviour? Certain it is, that Buddhism was introduced into China about that time, and that this ruler felt the need of a holy man, as if by inspiration!

The Chinese appear rapidly to have progressed in the arts, and to have been foremost in all those inventions, which in their application have conduced so much to the amelioration and welfare of the human race. Eleven hundred and eight years before we commence to count our era (B. C. 1108,) the unerring magnet that points so steadily to the pole, was discovered by this ingenious people; and who may say what other progress may have been made in science and literature up to B. C. 220, when the cruel and ambitious Che-Hwang-te, who, having finished the Great Wall, and wishing to date the foundation of his empire from his reign, collected and burned all such records as he could obtain, and destroyed by a cruel death the wise men within his dominions.[2]

Since then, at a very early part of the Christian era, they are known to have made a representative of money in the shape of paper,[3] and a stamp duty was imposed upon the sale of lands (A. D. 369). Shortly after, learning became much cherished; literary men rose to dignities and honor, and colleges were endowed in different parts of the empire.

Types had been invented some time in the early part of the ninth century,[4] and the art of book-binding was known as early as A. D. 750.[5] The application of Gunpowder as a projectile was made in 1225; and the invention of the Loom is dated a few years later.

The name, China, is derived from 'Tsin; and it became known by this name to the other nations of the world through the ambition of Che-Hwang-te, before mentioned, who assumed the title of King of 'Tsin; and who, if he was cruel, appears to have been also able and talented. He not only enlarged and extended the empire, but what was gained to it he consolidated and strengthened. The Great Wall was not the only monument of his reign. Splendid roads afforded facilities for trade, which he greatly encouraged. Overflown lands were redeemed, and stagnant and unwholesome marshes became, by the magic of his mind, fertile and healthy plains. His capital was enlarged and beautified, and employment given by his great works to thousands who else had starved. As he was the greatest, so was he the last of his dynasty; for it ended in the death of his son, but a short time after his own demise, and a new dynasty,—that of Han,—was erected upon its ruins; thus destroying plans for the furtherance of which much blood had been shed.

There is a strong parallel between the life and fate of this monarch and that of the Emperor Napoleon. Both of humble origin,[6] each made himself a NAME, and from each a name descended to his country. Under the influence of that insanity of great minds,—Ambition,—each filled the world with his reflected glory, and each failed in his dearest and most cherished wish, the perpetuation of his name through his offspring. Much good did either do, but in the prosecution of the plans of each, much innocent blood was spilled. They both were great! Was either good?

The name of Kathay, or Cathay, was applied to this country by ancient writers, among whom was Marco Polo, a Venetian, who was about the first who penetrated its boundaries. I have assumed it, therefore, as a title, as much from its antiquity as for its euphony.

When one would speak of the religious institutions of China, he is indeed in the position of the person named in the commencement of this chapter. There appears to be three systems of religions, viz., that of Confucius, the system of Laou-tze, and that of Buddha. But when you attempt to find out his belief, a Chinaman is very apt to confound you with a part of each doctrine, and it is only by much sifting that you can come at his real sentiments. The superior men of China affect the doctrines of the two first-named philosophers, whilst the dark and ambiguous creed of Buddha obtains with the lower classes.

The system of Confucius is well known to the general reader. It is an excellent code of morals. He advocates a control over the passions, and a proper management of the affections, and comes as near as he can to the rule laid down in the New Testament, "to do to others, as we would have others do unto us." His virtues are benevolence, righteousness, politeness, (!) wisdom and truth. Filial piety is inculcated as the first and primary duty. In fact, he considers it the foundation of all; and teaches that ancestors are to be worshipped after death, and their slightest command obeyed throughout life. He advocates subjection to superiors, and contentment with our lot, but appears to have no idea of retribution beyond this life; and although in his works the existence of a superior power is admitted, and he even says, in one instance, "Imperial Heaven has no kindred to serve, and will only assist Virtue," yet a favorite maxim of his, "Respect the gods, but keep them at a distance," proves that he considered the superior influences as having but little affinity with man.

The religion of Laou-tze comes next for our consideration. Its followers are called Taouists, from the word Taou,—Reason,—the active principle,—eternal reason. Its founder lived about the same time as Confucius, who is said to have had an interview with him. Confucius describes Laou-tze as resembling the dragon, and received from him a lecture, in which he accuses him of worldly-mindedness and vanity, and concludes by telling him to make the best of it he can. He is called the "Venerable Philosopher," and is said to have appeared thrice upon earth; in one instance as Lavu-Tan, when he honored Confucius with a visit; another time as Laou-Keun, "The venerable Prince."

He has left some good maxims, but his religion is tinged with error, and is filled with superstition. I have hardly time, and it would be scarcely worth while, to describe the peculiar tenets he inculcates; but he allows extensive powers to evil and malignant spirits, and the priests make great use of their supposed influence. The belief that ghosts will return to haunt and disturb the places in which the spirit has left the body, causes many a poor believer of this doctrine to be cast out, and deserted by its disciples in the agonies of death!

The doctrines of Buddha, from their prevalence in India, are generally known to the reading public. Buddhism is the basest kind of idolatry, and its rites are debasing and revolting. The worshipper is to infuse himself into Buddha by a constant repetition of his name, and continually thinking of him.

The Buddhists sacrifice to their ancestors, and feed the hungry ghosts. They also furnish them with clothing, and other necessaries, by shaping the article required from paper, and destroying it by fire. In this manner houses, and household utensils, money, and even slaves, are remitted to such ghosts as are thought to need them.

I have only space within the limits assigned to this chapter to give a description of heaven, copied from a Buddhistic work, before I leave the subject to continue the incidents of the cruise.

"The land of Heaven—Buddha's—is perfect gold. Its gardens and palaces are adorned with gems. They are encircled with rows of trees, and borders of net-work. There are lovely birds, of sparkling plumage and exquisite notes. The great god O-lo-han; the goddess of Mercy; the unnumbered Buddhas; the host of demigods, and the sages of heaven and earth, will all be assembled on that sacred spot. But in that sacred kingdom there are no women; (!) for the women who will live in that country are first changed into men. The inhabitants are produced from the Lotus flower, and have pure and fragrant bodies, fair and well-formed countenances, with hearts full of wisdom, and free from vexation. They are without pain or sickness, and never become old. This is the Paradise of the West; and the way to obtain it the most simple imaginable, depending on one sentence, O-me-to-fuh. Amida Buddha!"

Footnotes:

[1] One of the causes which have led the Chinese themselves into great errors with regard to the ancient state of their country, is the having given to their ancient characters the acceptations which they did not acquire until later times.

The characters which are now translated by the words emperor, province, city, palace, meant no more in former times than the chief of a tribe, a district, a camp, a house. These simple meanings did not flatter their vanity sufficiently, and they therefore preferred employing terms which would represent their ancestors as rich and powerful, and their empire vast and flourishing in the first year of its foundation as if by magic.—M. de Guignes' Littera.

[2] This presumption was overruled by an all-wise Providence, by the subsequent discovery of some books of Confucius in repairing an old house.—Montgomery Martin.

[3] Anno Domini 297.

[4] Anno Domini 924.

[5] The Chinese made paper about 350 years before Christ; and Confucius, about a century before, wrote his admirable maxims on a bamboo, with a stylus.

[6] The mother of Che-Hwang-te had been a concubine of a merchant of Ho-nan.

CHAPTER IX.

Christmas and the New Year in Macào​—​Removal of remains of Da Cunha​—​The Dead give place to the Quick​—​Chinese manner of Fishing​—​A new principle in Hydraulics​—​Inspection of Macào Militia​—​An ancient Cemetery​—​Arrival of the new Governor, Cardoza​—​Under way for Manilla​—​Fetch up at Hong-Kong​—​Another Start​—​Island of Luconia​—​Bay of Manilla​—​Earthquake​—​Discovery and Settlement of the Philippines​—​Description of Manilla​—​The Calzada​—​A puppet-show.

Christmas was passed by me a valetudinarian at Macào, the ship having left me there, in hospital, on her passage from Hong-Kong to Whampoa.

On Christmas eve I visited the different churches, all Roman Catholic of course. They were brilliantly illuminated, and filled principally with females, who knelt upon the bare floors whilst services, suitable for the occasion, were performed. All the churches were opened, and in that of San Augustinho heard some pretty good singing by boys. The old year was allowed to pass out and the new year come in without much eclât at Macào, indeed they are a dull set—the Macànese, and if the Chinese had any courage they could soon dislodge them.

Upon the 2d of January the removal of the remains of ex-Governor Da Cunha, from the government house to the church of San Francisco, took place. The corpse was accompanied by the troops and clergy; and the dead Governor vacated in favor of a living one soon expected from Lisbon.

In my walks outside of the town, along the beach, I noticed some Chinamen fishing: their net was very extensive and staked down on the beach, to its sides were attached ropes which led to a temporary shed upon a rock, where they were fastened to an axle having treadles, which a Chinaman, by applying his feet, made revolve, and by this means elevated and depressed the net at pleasure. Saw also a new principle in hydraulics, the object to which it was applied being to fill a sluice to irrigate a vegetable garden from a reservoir, and the modus operandi was this: two Chinamen, standing vis-à-vis, held the ends of two ropes, each fastened to the upper and lower parts of a bucket, by slackening which they dipped the bucket into a well, and then by hauling in tautened it, and communicating a swinging motion to the bucket by the same process, discharged its contents into the drain.

Witnessed an inspection drill of the Macào Militia. They were out in considerable numbers, and were clothed in a neat dark green uniform, but did not appear very perfect in the manual. It struck me that these youths did not take much pride in their position as privates, especially when several of the garrison troops were looking on, and when they were dismissed, those who had no servants to carry their muskets, used them as walking-sticks on returning home.

Strolling about one afternoon, I came upon an old graveyard on the top of a barren hill, off from the Governor's road, about two miles from the Campo gate. The stones were all flat and weather-worn; the inscriptions of many were indistinct, and would have baffled the skill of Old Mortality to decipher. Upon one I found the date 1767. None as late as the present century; some were in German, others had the English text.

This burial-place did not appear to have ever been inclosed, nor had it been used for the purpose of sepulture for nearly one century. That quaint ditty came into my head, and I naturally used its words as I looked upon these tombs:

"Oh where are those who lived and talked
A hundred years ago?"

And where will be those who breathe and walk one hundred years hence?

After three days hard work, the ship was got out of the Typa, and on the 29th of January (the anniversary of our departure from the United States,) got under way with the intention of steering for Manilla, but adverse winds and strong tides forced us to put into Hong-Kong, where we found it convenient to lay in additional stores.

Before we left Macào, the Portuguese corvette Don Joao Primero, had landed the new Governor, Cordoza.

On the morning of the 1st of February got under way, and stood out of the harbor of Hong-Kong—destination, Manilla.

In this month commences the Chinese new year, and our departure deprived us of an opportunity of witnessing its celebration, which is curious and worth seeing. It is perhaps the only general holiday the Chinese have: they devote it to feasting and hilarity, drinking sam-chu, and gambling; and as the fourth commandment is not considered in their religion, it is the only period when a cessation from labor occurs among them, and they appear to make the most of it, for they dispose of any thing at a low rate for a coin, previous to its advent, and the Coolies will appropriate every thing they can lay their hands on to promote its gratification.

Made the Island of Luconia, the principal of the Philippine group, on the 5th of February, in the morning watch, and employed that day in running down its coast. Stood off and on the entrance of the Bay of Manilla that night, and early the next morning passed El Corregidor, and stood up the bay with a fair wind, coming to anchor off the town about six bells, eleven o'clock, P. M.

The Bay of Manilla is magnificent in its proportions, but there are no striking objects surrounding it as at Rio. The water is generally bold and its navigation easy, yet there is a bar, or shallow spit projecting into it about twenty miles from its mouth, upon which a brig, which had been ahead of us, struck as we came up, thus proving that there are striking objects in the bay, at least.

Upon the morning after our arrival, a "tremblor," or shock from an earthquake, was felt on shore. They said it was the most severe one sustained for many years. No damage was done that I could learn, and they do not appear to dread them much, having an outlet for these sulphureous quakers in an extensive volcano.