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Pike's Expeditions

VOLUME II.

THE EXPEDITIONS
OF
Zebulon Montgomery Pike,

To Headwaters of the Mississippi River,
Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain,
During the Years 1805-6-7.

A NEW EDITION,
Now First Reprinted in Full from the Original of 1810,
With Copious Critical Commentary,
Memoir of Pike, New Map and other Illustrations,
and Complete Index,

BY
ELLIOTT COUES,
Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army,
Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey,
Member of the National Academy of Sciences,
Editor of Lewis and Clark,
etc., etc., etc.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

Vol. II.

Arkansaw Journey—Mexican Tour.

NEW YORK:
FRANCIS P. HARPER.
1895.

Copyright, 1895,
BY
FRANCIS P. HARPER,
New York.

All rights reserved.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS.

Part II.

THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY.

CHAPTER I.
ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND THROUGH KANSAS TO THE PAWNEE VILLAGE ON THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806.

Tuesday, July 15th, 1806. We sailed from the landing at Belle Fontaine[I-1] about 3 o'clock p. m., in two boats. Our party consisted of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two corporals, 16 privates and one interpreter.[I-2] We had also under our charge chiefs of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of women and children, had been to Washington. These Indians had been redeemed from captivity among the Potowatomies, and were now to be returned to their friends at the Osage towns. The whole number of Indians amounted to 51.

We ascended the river about six miles, and encamped on the south side behind an island. This day my boat swung around twice; once when we had a tow-rope on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. The Indians did not encamp with us at night. Distance six miles.[I-3]

July 16th. We rejoined our red brethren at breakfast, after which we again separated, and with very severe labor arrived late in the evening opposite the village of St. Charles,[I-4] where the Indians joined us. Distance 15 miles.

July 17th. We crossed the river to learn if any communications had arrived from St. Louis, and if there was any news of other Indian enemies of the Osages. Called at Mr. James Morrison's, and was introduced to Mr. [George] Henry, of New Jersey, about 28 years of age; he spoke a little Spanish and French tolerably well; he wished to go with me as a volunteer. From this place I wrote letters back to Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were crossing the river. A man by the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and Reynards were at the mouth of Big Manitou [i. e., the band under Pashepaho (Stabber) and Quashquame (Lance)]. This gave them considerable uneasiness, and it took me some time to do away the impression it made upon them, for I by no means believed it. We were about sailing when my interpreter [Vasquez] was arrested by the sheriff at the suit of Manuel De Liza [or Lisa[I-5]], for a debt between $300 and $400, and was obliged to return to St. Louis. This made it necessary for me to write another letter to the general.[I-6] We encamped about three-fourths of a mile above the village.

July 18th. Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson went with [one soldier and] the Indians across the country to the village of La Charette.[I-7] Mr. George Henry engaged, under oath, to accompany me on my tour. Wrote to the general, and inclosed him one of Henry's engagements.[I-8] After we had made our little arrangements we marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed early [in charge of Sergeant Ballenger], at twelve o'clock. Two of the men being sick, I steered one boat and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we were enabled to keep employed our full complement of oars, although we put the sick men on shore. Encamped on the north side. About eleven at night a tremendous thunderstorm arose, and it continued to blow and rain, with thunder and lightning, until day. Distance 15 miles.[I-9]

July 19th. In consequence of the rain we did not put off until past nine o'clock; my sick men marched. I had some reason to suspect that one of them [Kennerman[I-10]] intended never joining us again. At dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board; I then went on board the other, and we continued to run races all day. Although this boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I arrived at the encamping ground with her nearly half an hour before the other. The current not generally so strong as below. Distance 14 miles.[I-11]

Sunday, July 20th. Embarked about sunrise. Wishing to ascertain the temperature of the water, I discovered my large thermometer to be missing, which probably had fallen into the river. Passed one settlement on the north side, and, after turning the point to the south, saw two more houses on the south side. We encamped [on the south] in a long reach which bore north and west. The absentees had not yet joined us. Distance 15 miles.[I-12]

July 21st. It commenced raining near day, and continued until four o'clock in the afternoon; the rain was immensely heavy, with thunder and lightning remarkably severe. This obliged me to lie by; for, if we proceeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our baggage much more than when at rest, as the tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La Charette at a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; also, Baroney [Vasquez[I-13]], our interpreter, with letters from the general and our friends. The weather still continued cloudy, with rain. We were received in the house of Mr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his power was offered us. Distance six miles.[I-14]

July 22d. We arranged our boats, dried our lading, and wrote letters for Belle Fontaine.

July 23d. I dispatched an express to the general, with advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had deserted.[I-15] We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress. Lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. Dr. Robinson killed a deer, which was the first killed by the party. Distance 13 miles.[I-16]

July 24th. We embarked at half past six o'clock. Very foggy. The Indians accompanied by only three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson being a little indisposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat. We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped [on the south] five miles from [below] the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, one bear, and three turkeys. But three or four of the Indians arrived; the others encamped a small distance below. Distance 18 miles.[I-17]

July 25th. We embarked at half past six o'clock, and arrived at the entrance of the Gasconade river at half past eight o'clock, at which place I determined to remain the day, as my Indians and foot people were yet in the rear, and they had complained to me of being without shoes, leggings, etc. Distance five miles.[I-18]

One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late; the other had communicated his suspicions to me that the Oto, who was in company, had killed him: he acknowledged that he proposed to him to take out their baggage and return to St. Louis. The real occasion of his absence, however, was his having followed a large fresh trace up the Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led from the Missouri, he examined it and discovered horses to have been on it; he then left it, joined ours, and came in. This being generally the route taken by the Potowatamies, when they go to war against the Osage, it occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened by the mourning of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued for the space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter with respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with others who recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined the other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared extremely affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but in a moment they dry their cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs of grief generally run thus: "My dear father exists no longer; have pity on me, O Great Spirit! you see I cry forever; dry my tears and give me comfort." The warriors' songs are thus: "Our enemies have slain my father (or mother); he is lost to me and his family; I pray to you, O Master of Life! to preserve me until I avenge his death, and then do with me as thou pleaseth."

July 26th. We commenced at five o'clock to ferry the Indians over the Gasconade, and left the entrance of this river at half past six o'clock in the afternoon. Met five Frenchmen, who informed us that they had just left the Osage river, and that it was so low they could not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters and sent them back by them.[I-19] Dr. Robinson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians encamped about one league above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one otter, three turkeys, and one raccoon. Distance 15 miles.[I-20]

Sunday, July 27th. We embarked at half past five o'clock, and arrived at the Indians' camp at seven o'clock. They had been alarmed the day before, and in the evening sent men back in the trace, and some of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About half past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the Indians time to prepare temporary camps, and to secure our baggage. I went out to hunt, and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who were in the woods, they knew the difference of the report of my rifle from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately retired to camp. Distance 13 miles.[I-21]

July 28th. Embarked at half past five o'clock, and at half past ten arrived at the Osage[I-22] river, where we stopped, discharged our guns, bathed, etc. We then proceeded on about six miles, where we waited for and crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then proceeded on to the first island, and encamped on the west side, Sans Oreille and only four or five young men coming up, the rest encamping some distance behind. Killed one deer and one turkey. Distance 19 miles.

[July 29th.] All the [rest of the] Indians arrived very early. Big Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regulate the march, was much displeased that Sans Oreille and the others had left him, and said for that reason he would not suffer any woman to go in the boat and by that means separate the party; but in truth it was from jealousy of the men whose women went in the boats. He began by flogging one of the young men and was about to strike Sans Oreille's wife, but was stopped by him and told that he knew he had done wrong, but that the women were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked at half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we found the Indians rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called Tuttasuggy, or Wind, told me that the man whom Big Soldier struck had not yet arrived with his wife, "but that he would throw them away." As I knew he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to reign amongst them, I told him by no means [to do so]; that one of my boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might go to the devil, as a punishment for his insubordination.

I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded with the other. We were called ashore by three young Indians, who had killed some deer; and, on putting them on board, gave them about one or two gills of whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining about one o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which obliged us to stop and encamp. One of our men, Miller, lost himself, and did not arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one raccoon. Distance 14 miles.[I-23]

July 30th. After the fog dispersed I left Lieutenant Wilkinson with the party to dry the baggage, and went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley. About two o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first rapid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore. Killed three deer. Distance five miles.[I-24]

July 31st. We embarked early, and passed several rapids pretty well. Dined with the Indians. Two of them left us in the morning for the village, and they all had an idea of doing the same, but finally concluded otherwise. One of the Osages, who had left the party for the village, returned and reported that he had seen and heard strange Indians in the woods. This we considered as merely a pretext to come back. I this day lost my dog, and the misfortune was the greater, as we had no other dog which would bring anything out of the water. This was the dog Fisher had presented to me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed three deer and one turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-25]

Aug. 1st. It having rained all night, the river appeared to have risen about six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry, but it continuing to rain at intervals all day, the things were wetter at sundown than in the morning. We rolled them up and left them on the beach. We sent out two hunters in the morning, one of whom killed three deer; all the Indians killed three more.

Aug. 2d. The weather cleared up. The lading being spread out to dry, Dr. Robinson, myself, Bradley, Sparks, and Brown went out to hunt. We killed four deer, the Indians two. Having reloaded the boats, we embarked at five o'clock, and came about two miles. The river rose, in the last 24 hours, four inches.

Sunday, Aug. 3d. Embarked early, and wishing to save the fresh [take advantage of the rise in the river], I pushed hard all day. Sparks was lost, and did not arrive until night. We encamped about 25 paces from the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I heard the sentry observe that the boats had better be brought in; I got up and found the water within a rod of our tent, and before we could get all our things out it had reached the tent. Killed nine deer, one wildcat, one goose, and one turkey. Distance 18 miles.[I-26]

Aug. 4th. We embarked early and continued on for some time, not being able to find a suitable place to dry our things, but at length stopped on the east shore. Here we had to ferry the Indians over a small channel which we did not before observe; all of them, however, not arriving, we put off and continued our route. Finding our progress much impeded by our mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of its iron, and, after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on it, set it adrift, followed by the yards. This mast had been cut and made at [our wintering post on] Pine creek, Upper Mississippi. After proceeding some miles, we found the Indians on the west shore, they having rafted the river. We stopped for them to cook, after which we proceeded. The navigation had become very difficult from the rapidity of the current, occasioned by the rise of the water, which rose one foot in an hour. Killed two deer. Rainy. Distance 10 miles.[I-27]

Aug. 5th. We lay by this day, in order to give the Indians an opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; we lost the latter about two miles from camp. After hunting some time on the west shore, we concluded to raft the river, which we effected with difficulty and danger, and hunted for some time, but without success. We then returned to the party and found that Mr. Henry, who had been lost, had arrived one hour before us; he had met one of the soldiers, who brought him in.

To-day in our tour I passed over a remarkably large rattlesnake, as he lay curled up, and trod so near him as to touch him with my foot, he drawing himself up to make room for my heel. Dr. Robinson, who followed me, was on the point of treading on him, but by a spring avoided it. I then turned round and touched him with my ramrod, but he showed no disposition to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. The gratitude which I felt toward him for not having bitten me induced me to save his life. Killed four deer. River rises 13 inches. Rain continues.

Aug. 6th. We embarked at half past eight o'clock, it having cleared off and had the appearance of a fine day. Passed [Little] Gravel river [of Pike, now Big Gravois creek] on the west.[I-28] About three miles above this river the Indians left us and informed me that, by keeping a little to the south and west, they would make in 15 miles what would be at least 35 miles for us. Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and Sergeant Ballenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. Distance 13 miles.

Aug. 7th. Not being detained by the Indians, we are for once enabled to embark at a quarter past five o'clock. The river having fallen since yesterday morning about four feet, we wish to improve every moment of time previous to its entire fall. We proceeded extremely well, passed the Saline [read Great Gravel[I-29]] river [of Pike, now Grand Auglaise creek] on the east, and encamped opposite La Belle Roche on the west shore. This day we passed many beautiful cliffs on both sides of the river; saw a bear and wolf swimming the river. I employed myself part of the day in translating into French a talk of General Wilkinson's to Cheveux Blanche.[I-30] Distance 21 miles.

Aug. 8th. We embarked at 20 minutes past five o'clock. Found the river had fallen about two feet during the night. At the confluence of the Youngar[I-31] with the Osage river we breakfasted. Encamped at night on a bar. Distance 21 miles.

Aug. 9th. We embarked at five o'clock, and at half past six met the Indians and our gentlemen. They had met with nothing extraordinary. They had killed in their excursion seven deer and three bear. We proceeded to an old wintering ground, where there were eight houses, occupied last winter by [Blank], who had not been able to proceed any higher for want of water. Passed the Old Man's Rapids, below which, on the west shore, are some beautiful cliffs. Dined with the Indians, after which we passed Upper Gravel river on the west, and Pottoe [qu. Poteau?] river on the east. Sparks went out to hunt, and did not arrive at our encampment, nor did the Indians. Distance 25 miles.[I-32]

Sunday, Aug. 10th. Embarked a quarter past five o'clock, when the sun shone out very clearly; but in 15 minutes it began to rain, and continued to rain very hard until one o'clock. Passed the Indians, who were encamped on the west shore, about half a mile, and halted for them. They all forded the river but Sans Oreille, who brought his wife up to the boats, and informed me that Sparks had encamped with them, but left them early to return in search of us. We proceeded after breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment we were embarking. The Indians traversing the country on the east had sent Sparks with Sans Oreille. About two o'clock split a plank in the bottom of the batteau. Unloaded and turned her up, repaired the breach, and continued on the route. By four o'clock found the Indians behind a large island; we made no stop, and they followed us. We encamped together on a bar, where we proposed halting to dry our corn, etc., on Monday. Killed four deer. Distance 18½ miles.[I-33]

Aug. 11th. We continued here to dry our corn and baggage. This morning we had a match at shooting. The prize offered to the successful person was a jacket and a twist of tobacco, which I myself was so fortunate as to win; I made the articles, however, a present to the young fellow who waited on me. After this, taking Huddleston with me, I went out to hunt; after traveling about 12 miles we arrived at the river, almost exhausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by drinking plentifully of the water, and was rendered so extremely unwell by it that I was scarcely capable of pursuing my route to the camp. On arriving opposite it, I swam the river, from which I experienced considerable relief. The party informed me they had found the heat very oppressive, and the mercury, at sundown, was at 25° Reaumer [Réaumur]. This day, for the first time, I saw trout west of the Allegheny mountains. Reloaded our boats and finished two new oars, which were requisite.

Aug. 12th. Previously to our embarkation, which took place at half past five o'clock, I was obliged to convince my red brethren that, if I protected them, I would not suffer them to plunder my men with impunity; for the chief had got one of my lads' tin cups attached to his baggage, and, notwithstanding it was marked with the initials of the soldier's name, he refused to give it up. On which I requested the interpreter to tell him, "that I had no idea that he had purloined the cup, but supposed some other person had attached it to his baggage; but that, knowing it to be my soldier's, I requested him to deliver it up, or I should be obliged to take other measures to obtain it." This had the desired effect; for I certainly should have put my threats into execution, from this principle, formed from my experience during my intercourse with Indians, that if you have justice on your side, and do not enforce it, they universally despise you. When we stopped for dinner, one of my men took his gun and went out; not having returned when we were ready to re-embark, I left him. Passed the Indians twice when they were crossing the river. Passed some very beautiful cliffs on the W. [N. or right] shore; also Vermillion [Little Tabeau] and Grand rivers, the latter of which is a large stream, and encamped at the [first bend above it, on the E. or left-hand bank of the Osage[I-34]]. Distance 24 miles.

Immediately after our encampment a thunder-storm came on, which blew overboard my flag-staff and a number of articles of my clothing, which were on top of the cabin, and sunk them immediately. Being much fatigued and the bank difficult of ascent, lay down in the cabin without supper and slept all night. It continued to rain. The man [Sparks] I left on shore arrived on the opposite bank in the night, having killed two deer, but was obliged to leave the largest behind. Finding he was not to be sent for, he concealed his gun and deer, and swam the river.

Aug. 13th. It continued to rain. In the morning sent a boat over for Sparks' gun and deer. Embarked at half past nine o'clock. Stopped to dine at two o'clock. During the time we halted, the river rose over the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no other proof, would convince us we were near the head of the river, as the rain must have reached it. We made almost a perfect circle, so that I do not believe we were to-night three miles from where we encamped last night. This day, for the first time, we have prairie hills. Distance 13 miles.[I-35]

[Aug. 14th]. Embarked at half past five o'clock. Passed the Park, which is 10 miles around, and not more than three-quarters of a mile across, bearing from S. 5° E. to due N. At its head we breakfasted, and just as we were about to put off we saw and brought-to a canoe manned with three engagees of Mr. [Chouteau], who informed us that the Little Osage had marched a war-party against the Kans, and the Grand Osage a party against our citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrote by them to the general[I-36] and all friends. Gave the poor fellows some whisky and eight quarts of corn, they having had only two turkeys for four days. We left them and proceeded, passing on our east some of the largest cedars I ever saw. Came on very well in the afternoon, and encamped[I-37] on an island above Turkey island. Distance 28 miles.

Aug. 15th. We embarked at five o'clock, and at eight o'clock met the Indians and the gentlemen[I-38] who accompanied them. Found all well. They had been joined by their friends and relatives from the village, with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant Wilkinson informed me that their meeting was very tender and affectionate—"wives throwing themselves into the arms of their husbands, parents embracing their children, and children their parents, brothers and sisters meeting, one from captivity, the other from the towns; they at the same time returning thanks to the Good God for having brought them once more together"—in short, the tout ensemble was such as to make polished society blush, when compared with those savages, in whom the passions of the mind, whether joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, have their full scope. Why can we not correct the baneful passions, without weakening the good? Sans Oreille made them a speech, in which he remarked: "Osage, you now see your wives, your brothers, your daughters, your sons, redeemed from captivity. Who did this? Was it the Spaniards? No. The French? No. Had either of those people been governors of the country, your relatives might have rotted in captivity, and you never would have seen them; but the Americans stretched forth their hands, and they are returned to you! What can you do in return for all this goodness? Nothing; all your lives would not suffice to repay their goodness." This man had children in captivity, not one of whom we were able to obtain for him.

The chief then requested that Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson might be permitted to accompany them by land, to which I consented. Wrote a letter to Cheveux Blanche, by Lieutenant Wilkinson. When we parted, after delivering the Indians their baggage, Sans Oreille put an Indian on board to hunt, or obey any other commands I might have for him. We stopped at eleven o'clock to dry our baggage. Found our biscuit and crackers almost all ruined. Put off at half past four o'clock, and encamped at three-quarters past five o'clock. Distance 15½ miles.[I-39]

Aug. 16th. We embarked at five o'clock and came on extremely well in the barge to an evacuated French hunting-camp 12 miles to breakfast, the batteaux coming up late. We exchanged hands. About twelve o'clock passed the Grand Fork [confluence of Sac river with the Osage, above Osceola], which is equal in size to the one on which we pursued our route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's Nest, on the W. shore, above the forks. The batteaux having gained nearly half an hour, the crews are convinced that it is not the boat, but men who make the difference; each take their own boat, after which we proceeded very well, the water being good and men in spirits. Saw an elk on the shore; also met an old man alone hunting, from whom we obtained no information of consequence. Encamped on the W. shore of Mine [or Mire] river. Distance 37 miles.[I-40]

We to-day passed the place where the chief called Belle Oiseau, and others, were killed. The Belle Oiseau was killed by the Sacs in the year 1804, in a boat of Manuel de Liza, when on his way down to St. Louis, in order to join the first deputation of his nation who were forwarded to the seat of government by Governor Lewis. A particular relation of the event, no doubt, has been given by that gentleman. This chief had a son who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, and whose honorable deportment, attachment to our government, amiableness of disposition, and the respect and esteem in which he was held by his compeers, entitle him to the attention of our agents to his nation.

Sunday, Aug. 17th. We embarked at five o'clock and came 12 miles to breakfast. At four o'clock arrived at 10 French houses on the E. shore, where was then residing a Sac, who was married to an Osage femme and spoke French only. We afterward passed the position where Mr. [Pierre] Chouteau formerly had his fort [Fort Carondelet[I-41]], not a vestige of which was remaining, the spot being only marked by the superior growth of vegetation. Here the river-bank is one solid bed of stone-coal, just below which is a very shoal and rapid ripple [Kaw rapids, where was Collen or Colly ford]; whence to the village of the Grand Osage is nine miles across a large prairie. We came about two miles above [Chouteau's], and encamped on the W. [right-hand] shore. This day the river has been generally bounded by prairies on both sides. Distance 41½ miles.

Aug. 18th. We put off at half past five o'clock. Stopped at nine o'clock to breakfast. Passed the second fork[I-42] of the river at twelve o'clock, the right-hand fork bearing N., about 30 yards wide; the left, the one which we pursued, N. 60° W., and not more than 50 or 60 feet in width, very full of old trees, etc., but with plenty of water. Observed the road where the chiefs and Lieutenant Wilkinson crossed. We proceeded until one o'clock, when we were halted by a large drift quite across the river. Dispatched Baroney to the village of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our baggage nearer to the towns, and unloaded our boats. In about two hours Lieutenant Wilkinson, with Tuttasuggy, arrived at our camp, the former of whom presented me an express from the general[I-43] and letters from my friends. The chiefs remained at our camp all night. I was attacked by a violent headache. It commenced raining, and continued with great force until day. Distance 19¼ miles.

Aug. 19th. We commenced very early to arrange our baggage, but had not finished at one o'clock, when the chief of the Grand Osage, and 40 or 50 men of his village, arrived with horses. We loaded and took our departure for the place where Manuel de Liza had his establishment, [near Fort Carondelet], at which we arrived about four o'clock, and commenced pitching our encampment near the edge of the prairie, when I was informed that three men had arrived from St. Louis sent by Manuel de Liza. I dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village with Baroney, who brought to camp the man [Jean Baptiste Duchouquette] who had charge of the others from St. Louis; he having no passport, I detained him until further consideration. Our reception by the Osage was flattering, and particularly by White Hair and our fellow-travelers. This evening there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an express from the Arkansaw, who brought the news that a boat, ascending that river, had been fired on, had two white men killed and two wounded, and that the brother-in-law of Cheveux Blanche, who happened to be on board, was also killed. This put the whole village in mourning.

Aug. 20th. About twelve o'clock I dispatched Baroney for the chiefs of the Grand [Osage] village, in order to give the general's parole to Cheveux Blanche; also, a young man to the village of the Little Osage. Cheveux Blanche and his people arrived about three o'clock, and after waiting some time for Wind and his people, I just informed the chiefs that I had merely assembled them to deliver the parole of the general and present the marks of distinction intended for Cheveux Blanche and his son—hanging a grand medal round the neck of the latter. The packets committed to my charge for the relations of the deceased Osages were then delivered to them, the widow making the distribution. It must be remarked that I had merely requested Cheveux Blanche to come with his son, and receive the general's message; but instead of coming with a few chiefs, he was accompanied by 186 men, to all of whom we were obliged to give something to drink. When the council was over we mounted our horses, rode to the village, and halted at the quarters of the chief, where we were regaled with boiled pumpkins; then we went to two different houses, and were invited to many others, but declined, promising that I would pay them a visit previous to my departure, and spend the whole day. We then returned to camp. After inquiring of White Hair if the men of Manuel de Liza had any ostensible object in view, he informed me that they had only said to him that they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the autumn. I concluded to take the deposition of Babtiste Larme as to the manner in which he was employed by Manuel de Liza, forward the same to Dr. Brown[I-44] and the attorney-general of Louisiana, and permit the men to return to St. Louis, as it was impossible for me to detach a party with them as prisoners.

Aug. 21st. In the morning White Hair paid us a visit, and brought us a present of corn, meat, and grease; we invited him, his son, and son-in-law to breakfast with us, and gave his companions something to eat. I then wrote a number of letters to send by express, and inclosed the deposition of Larme. In the afternoon we rode to the village of the Little Osage, and were received by our fellow-travelers with true hospitality. Returned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of rain, thunder, and lightning commenced, and continued with extraordinary violence until half past nine o'clock. It was with great difficulty we were enabled to keep our tents from blowing down. The place prepared for an observatory was carried away.

Aug. 22d. Preparing in the morning for the council, and committing to paper the heads of the subject on which I intended to speak. The chiefs of the Little Osage arrived about one o'clock, also the interpreter of the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that the Grand Osage had expected us at their village with the Little Osage. Cheveux Blanche arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony of the council being arranged, I delivered them the general's parole, forwarded by express. My reason for not delivering it until this time was in order to have the two villages together, as it was equally interesting to both. After this I explained at large the will, wishes, and advice of their Great Father, and the mode which I conceived most applicable to carry them into effect. Cheveux Blanche replied in a few words, and promised to give me a full reply to-morrow. Wind replied to the same amount; after which Cheveux Blanche addressed himself to Wind as follows: "I am shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy—you who have lately come from the States, and should have been wise; but you led the redeemed captives, with an officer of the United States, to your village, instead of bringing them through my town in the first instance." To this Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly after, under pretense of giving some orders to his young men. I conceived this reprimand intended barely to show us the superiority of the one and inferiority of the other; it originated, in my opinion, from an altercation of Lieutenant Wilkinson and Cheveux Blanche, in which allusions were made by the former to the friendly conduct of the Little Chief, alias Wind, when compared to that of the latter. I must here observe that when the chiefs and prisoners left me, accompanied by Lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical situation of the two villages,[I-45] but conceived that, in going to the Little Village, they would pass by the Grand Village, and of course that Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would arrange the affair properly.

Aug. 23d. I expected to have received from the chiefs their answers to my demands; but received an express from both villages, informing me that they wished to put them off until to-morrow. I then adjusted my instruments. Took equal altitudes and a meridional altitude of the sun; but, owing to flying clouds, missed the immersions of Jupiter's satellites.

Sunday, Aug. 24th. Was nearly half the day in adjusting the line of collimation in the telescopic sights of my theodolite. It began to cloud before evening, and although the sky was not entirely covered, I was so unfortunate as to miss the time of an immersion, and, although clear in the intermediate period, an emersion also. I was informed by Baroney that the Little Village had made up 11 horses for us. In the evening, however, the interpreter, accompanied by the son-in-law and son of Cheveux Blanche, came to camp, and informed me that there were no horses to be got in the village of the Big Osage.

The son-in-law spoke as follows: "I am come to give you the news of our village, which is unfortunate for us, our chief having assembled his young men and warriors and proposed to them to furnish horses, etc. They have generally refused him; but I, who am the principal man after Cheveux Blanche, will accompany you." The son: "Our young men and warriors will not take pity on my father, nor on me, nor on you, and have refused to comply with your request; but I will accompany you with two horses to carry provision for your voyage." The interpreter: "The Cheveux Blanche was ashamed to bring you this answer, but will again assemble his village and to-morrow come and give you the answer." I replied: "That I had made the demand without explanation, merely to let the Osage act agreeably to their inclination, in order that we might see what disposition they would exhibit toward us; but why do I ask of their chiefs to follow me to the Pawnees? Is it for our good, or their own? Is it not to make peace with the Kans? To put their wives and children out of danger? As to their horses which they may furnish us with, I will pay them for their hire; but it is uncertain whether I can pay them here, or give them an order on the Superintendent of Indian Affairs at St. Louis; but this I do not now wish them to be made acquainted with."

Aug. 25th. In the morning we were visited by Cheveux Blanche and three or four of his chiefs, who were pleased to accord to my demands. He found much difficulty in informing me that in all his village he could only raise four horses, but that we should be accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I then expressed to him the difference of our expectations from the reality. He remained until after twelve o'clock, when I went to the Little Osage village, and was received with great friendship by the chief. Remained all night at the house of Tuttasuggy. Took the census.[I-46]

Aug. 26th. Rose early and found my friends in council, which was merely relative to our horses. The chief then declared their determination to me, and that he himself gave me one horse, and lent me eight more to carry our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old batteau for $100 in merchandise, which I conceived infinitely preferable to leaving her to the uncertain safeguard of the Indians. About this time we received the news that the party of Potowatomies were discovered to be near the towns. I gave them the best advice I was capable of giving, and then returned to our camp.

Aug. 27th. Spent in arranging our baggage for the horses. Received four horses from the Little Village and two from the Big Village. In the evening Lieutenant Wilkinson rode to the Grand Village. I observed two immersions of Jupiter's satellites.

Aug. 28th. Writing to the secretary at war and the general, and making arrangements for our departure. Visited by Wind and Sans Oreille.

Aug. 29th. Forenoon writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. Robinson and myself went to the Grand Village, at which we saw the great medicine dance. Remained at the village all night.

Aug. 30th. Returned to the camp after settling all my affairs at the town. Sealed up our dispatches and sent off the general's express.[I-47] In the afternoon we were visited by the principal men of the Little Village and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, and made the donations which I conceived requisite to the different Indians, on account of horses, etc.

Sunday, Aug. 31st. Arranging our packs and loading our horses, in order to fit our loads, as we expected to march on the morrow. Up late writing letters.

Sept. 1st. Struck our tents early in the morning, and commenced loading our horses. We now discovered that an Indian had stolen a large black horse which Cheveux Blanche had presented to Lieutenant Wilkinson. I mounted a horse to pursue him; but the interpreter sent to town, and the chief's wife sent another in its place. We left the place about twelve o'clock with 15 loaded horses,[I-48] our party consisting of two lieutenants, one doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, 15 privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and four chiefs of the Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 warriors and one woman. We crossed the Grand Osage fork and a prairie N. 80° W. five miles to the fork of the Little Osage.[I-49] Joined by Sans Oreille and seven Little Osage, all of whom I equipped for the march. Distance eight miles.

Sept. 2d. Marched at six o'clock. Halted at ten o'clock and two o'clock on the side of the creek [Little Osage river], our route having been all the time on its borders. Whilst there I was informed by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it proper for me to return, which I did, accompanied by Baroney, first to the Little Village; whence we were accompanied by Wind to the Big Village, where we remained all night at the lodge of Cheveux Blanche. Mr. Chouteau gave us all the news, after which I scrawled a letter to the general and my friends.

Sept. 3d. Rose early, and went to the Little Village to breakfast. After giving my letters to Mr. Henry, and arranging my affairs, we proceeded, and overtook our party at two o'clock. They had left their first camp about four miles. Our horses being much fatigued, we concluded to remain all night. Sent out our red and white hunters, all of whom only killed two turkeys. Distance four miles.[I-50]

Sept. 4th. When about to march in the morning one of our horses was missing; we left Sans Oreille, with the two Pawnees, to search for him, and proceeded till about nine o'clock; stopped until twelve o'clock, and then marched. In about half an hour I was overtaken and informed that Sans Oreille had not been able to find our horse; on which we encamped, and sent two horses back for the load. One of the Indians, being jealous of his wife, sent her back to the village. After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and myself took our horses and followed the course of a little stream until we arrived at the Grand[I-51] river, which was distant about six miles. We here found a most delightful basin of water, of 25 paces' diameter and about 100 in circumference, in which we bathed; found it deep and delightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever formed a more beautiful place for a farm. We returned to camp about dusk, when I was informed that some of the Indians had been dreaming and wished to return. Killed one deer, one turkey, one raccoon. Distance [made by the main party] 13 miles.

Sept. 5th. In the morning our Little Osage all came to a determination to return, and, much to my surprise, Sans Oreille among the rest. I had given an order on the chiefs for the lost horse to be delivered to Sans Oreille's wife, previously to my knowing that he was going back; but took from him his gun, and the guns from all the others also.

In about five miles we struck a beautiful hill, which bears south on the prairie; its elevation I suppose to be 100 feet. From its summit the view is sublime to the east and southeast. We waited on this hill to breakfast, and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer on the rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. Here another Indian wished to return and take his horse with him; which, as we had so few, I could not allow, for he had already received a gun for the use of his horse. I told him he might return, but his horse would go to the Pawnees.

We marched, leaving the Osage trace, which we had hitherto followed, and crossed the hills to a creek that was almost dry. Descended it to the main [Little Osage] river, where we dined [vicinity of Harding]. The discontented Indian came up, and put on an air of satisfaction and content.

We again marched about six miles further, and encamped at the head of a small creek, about half a mile from the water. Distance 19 miles [approaching Xenia, Bourbon Co., Kas.[I-52]].

Sept. 6th. We marched at half past six o'clock, and arrived at a large fork of the Little Osage river, where we breakfasted [vicinity of Xenia]. In the holes of the creek we discovered many fish, which, from the stripes on their bellies and their spots, I supposed to be trout and bass; they were 12 inches long. This brought to mind the necessity of a net, which would have frequently afforded subsistence to the whole party. We halted at one o'clock and remained until four o'clock. Being told that we could not arrive at any water, we here filled our vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge, between the waters of the Osage and the Arkansaw, alias White river,[I-53] the dry branches of which interlock within 20 yards of each other. The prospect from the dividing ridge to the east and southeast is sublime. The prairie rising and falling in regular swells, as far as the sight can extend, produces a very beautiful appearance. We left our course, and struck down to the southwest on a small [tributary of Elm] creek, or rather a puddle of water. Killed one deer. Distance 20 miles.

Sunday, Sept. 7th. We left this at half past six o'clock, before which we had a difficulty with the son of the chief, which was accommodated. At nine o'clock we came on a large fork [of Elm creek] and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on and encamped on a fine stream [Deer creek?], where we swam our horses and bathed ourselves. Killed four deer. Distance 15 miles.[I-54]

Sept. 8th. Marched early, and arrived at a grand fork of the White river.[I-55] The Indians were all discontented; we had taken the wrong ford; but, as they were dispersed through the woods, we could not be governed by their movements. Previously to our leaving the camp, the son of Cheveux Blanche proposed returning, and offered no other reason than that he felt too lazy to perform the route. The reason I offered to prevent his going was ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter, who deprived us of one horse. His return left us without any chief or man of consideration, except the son of Belle Oiseau, who was but a lad. The former appeared to be a discontented young fellow, filled with self-pride; he certainly should have considered it as an honor to be sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Another Indian, who owned one of our horses, wished to return with him, which was positively refused him; but fearing he might steal him, I contented him with a present. We marched, and made the second branch [North Big creek], crossing one prairie 12 miles, in which we suffered much with drought. Distance 22 miles.[I-56]

Sept. 9th. Marched at seven o'clock, and struck a large [Eagle] creek at 11 miles' distance. On holding a council, it was determined to ascend this creek to the highest point of water, and strike across to a large river of the Arkansaw [watershed]. We ascended 4½ miles, and encamped. Killed one cabrie [antelope, Antilocapra americana], two deer, and two turkeys. Distance 12 miles.[I-57]

Sept. 10th. Marched early. Struck and passed the divide between the Grand [Neosho] river and the Verdegris [or Vermilion] river. Stopped to breakfast on a small stream of the latter; after which we marched and encamped on the fourth small stream [tributary of Vermilion river]. Killed one elk, one deer. Distance 21 miles.[I-58]

Sept. 11th. Passed four branches and over high hilly prairies. Encamped at night on a large branch of Grand river. Killed one cabrie, one deer. Distance 17 miles.[I-59]

Sept. 12th. Commenced our march at seven o'clock. Passed very ruff [rough] flint hills. My feet blistered and very sore. I stood on a hill, and in one view below me saw buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and panthers. Encamped on the main [Cottonwood] branch of Grand [Neosho] river, which had very steep banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson, Bradley, and Baroney arrived after dusk, having killed three buffalo, which, with one I killed, and two by the Indians, made six; the Indians alleging it was the Kans' hunting ground, therefore they would destroy all the game they possibly could. Distance 18 miles.[I-60]

Sept. 13th. Late in marching, it having every appearance of rain. Halted to dine on a branch of Grand river. Marched again at half past two o'clock, and halted at five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson and one of our Pawnees to the village to-morrow. Killed six buffalo, one elk, and three deer. Distance nine miles.[I-61]

Sunday, Sept. 14th. The doctor and Frank, a young Pawnee, marched for the village at daylight; we at half past six o'clock. Halted at one o'clock. On the march we were continually passing through large herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and I have no doubt that one hunter could support 200 men. I prevented the men shooting at the game, not merely because of the scarcity of ammunition, but, as I conceived, the laws of morality forbid it also. Encamped at sunset on the main branch [Cottonwood] of White river, hitherto called Grand river. Killed one buffalo and one cabrie. Distance 21 miles.[I-62]

Sept. 15th. Marched at seven o'clock; passed a very large Kans encampment, evacuated, which had been occupied last summer. Proceeded on to the dividing ridge between the waters of White river and the Kans [more exactly, from basin of the Cottonwood to that of the Smoky Hill]. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, which was strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on the W. side of said ridge we found spa springs. Halted at one o'clock, very much against the inclination of the Osage, who, from the running of the buffalo, conceived a party of Kans to be near. Killed two buffalo. Distance 18 miles.[I-63]

Sept. 16th. Marched late, and in about 4½ miles' distance came to a very handsome branch of water [Hobbs branch of Gypsum creek], at which we stopped and remained until after two o'clock, when we marched and crossed two branches [main Gypsum and Stag creeks]. Encamped on a third. At the second [Gypsum] creek, a horse was discovered on the prairie, when Baroney went in pursuit of him on a horse of Lieutenant Wilkinson, but arrived at our camp without success. Distance 13 miles.[I-64]

Sept. 17th. Marched early and struck the main S. E. [Smoky Hill] branch of the Kans river at nine o'clock; it appeared to be 25 or 30 yards wide, and is navigable in the flood seasons. We passed it six miles to a small branch to breakfast. Game getting scarce, our provision began to run low. Marched about two o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a large branch [Mulberry creek]. Killed one buffalo. Distance 21 miles.[I-65]

Sept. 18th. Marched at our usual hour, and at twelve o'clock halted at a large branch [Saline river] of the Kans [Smoky Hill], which was strongly impregnated with salt. This day we expected the people of the [Pawnee] village to meet us. We marched again at four o'clock. Our route being over a continued series of hills and hollows, we were until eight at night before we arrived at a small dry branch [of Covert creek]. It was nearly ten o'clock before we found any water. Commenced raining a little before day. Distance 25 miles.[I-66]

Sept. 19th. It having commenced raining early, we secured our baggage and pitched our tents. The rain continued without any intermission the whole day, during which we employed ourselves in reading the Bible and Pope's Essays, and in pricking on our arms with India ink some characters, which will frequently bring to mind our forlorn and dreary situation, as well as the happiest days of our life. In the rear of our encampment was a hill, on which there was a large rock, where the Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine to apprise them of the approach of any party, friends or foes, as well as to see if they could discover any game on the prairies.

Sept. 20th. It appearing as if we possibly might have a clear day, I ordered our baggage spread abroad to dry; but it shortly after clouded up and commenced raining. The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on the prairies; upon which we dispatched a hunter on horseback in pursuit of him, also some hunters on foot; before night they killed three buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in and jerked or dried by the fire. It continued showery until afternoon, when we put our baggage again in a position to dry, and remained encamped. The detention of the doctor and our Pawnee ambassador began to be a serious matter of consideration.

Sunday, Sept. 21st. We marched at eight o'clock, although there was every appearance of rain, and at eleven o'clock passed a large [Little Saline river of Pike, now Covert] creek, remarkably salt. Stopped at one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt creek. Our interpreter having killed an elk, we sent out for some meat, which detained us so late that I concluded it best to encamp where we were, in preference to running the risk of finding no water. Distance 10 miles.

Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked with a severe headache and slight fever. One of my men had been attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on the 18th, and was still ill. We were informed by an Osage woman that two of the Indians were conspiring to desert us in the night and steal some of our horses, one of whom was her husband. We engaged her as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep ourselves on our guard against our own companions and fellow-travelers—men of a nation highly favored by the United States, but whom I believe to be a faithless set of poltrons, incapable of a great and generous action. Among them, indeed, there may be some exceptions.

In the evening, finding that the two Indians above mentioned had made all preparations to depart, I sent for one of them, who owned a horse and had received a gun and other property for his hire, and told him "I knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert, I should take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, he might leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted men with us." He replied "that he was a man, that he always performed his promises, that he had never said he would return; but that he would follow me to the Pawnee village, which he intended to do." He then brought his baggage and put it under charge of the sentinel, and slept by my fire; but notwithstanding I had him well watched.

Sept. 22d. We did not march until eight o'clock, owing to the indisposition of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At eleven waited to dine. Light mists of rain, with flying clouds. We marched again at three o'clock, and continued our route 12 miles to the first branch of the Republican Fork. [?] Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us that the chief had left the village the day after the doctor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and many people, and had taken his course to the north of our route; consequently we had missed each other. He likewise informed us that the Tetaus [misprint for Tetans, and that a mistake for Ietans, i. e., Comanches] had recently killed six Pawnees, the Kans had stolen some horses, and a party of 300 Spaniards had lately been as far as the Sabine; but for what purpose was unknown. Distance 11 miles.[I-67]

Sept. 23d. Marched early and passed a large fork of the Kans [i. e., Smoky Hill] river, which I [correctly] suppose to be the one generally called Solomon's. One of our horses fell into the water and wet his load. Halted at ten o'clock on a branch of this fork. We marched at half past one o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a stream [Buffalo creek] where we had a great difficulty to find water. We were overtaken by a Pawnee, who encamped with us. He offered his horse for our use. Distance 21 miles.[I-68]

Sept. 24th. We could not find our horses until late, when we marched. Before noon met Frank, who had accompanied Dr. Robinson to the village, and three other Pawnees, who informed us that the chief and his party had only arrived at the village yesterday, and had dispatched them out in search of us. Before three o'clock we were joined by several Pawnees; one of them wore a scarlet coat, with a small medal of General Washington, and a Spanish medal also. We encamped at sunset on a middle-sized branch [White Rock creek], and were joined by several Pawnees in the evening, who brought us some buffalo meat. Here we saw some mules, horses, bridles, and blankets, which they obtained of the Spaniards. Few only had breech cloths, most being wrapped in buffalo robes, otherwise quite naked. Distance 18 miles.[I-69]

Sept. 25th. We marched at a good hour, and in about eight miles struck a very large road on which the Spanish troops had returned, and on which we could yet discover the grass beaten down in the direction which they went.

When we arrived within about three miles of the village, we were requested to remain, as the ceremony of receiving the Osage into the towns was to be performed here. There was a small circular spot, clear of grass, before which the Osage sat down. We were a small distance in advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then advanced within a mile of us, halted, divided into two troops, and came on each flank at full charge, making all the gestures and performing the maneuvers of a real war charge. They then encircled us around, and the chief advanced in the center and gave us his hand; his name was Caracterish. He was accompanied by his two sons and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. The Osage were still seated; but Belle Oiseau then rose, came forward with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who took a whiff or two from it. We then proceeded; the chief, Lieutenant Wilkinson, and myself in front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next with the colors; then our horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each side, running races, etc. When we arrived on the hill over the town we were again halted, and the Osage seated in a row; when each Pawnee who intended so to do presented them with a horse and gave a pipe to smoke to the Osage to whom he had made the present. In this manner were eight horses given. Lieutenant Wilkinson then proceeded with the party to the [Republican] river above the town, and encamped. I went up to our camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee with me loaded with corn for my men. Distance 12 miles.[I-70] As the chief had invited us to his lodge to eat, we thought it proper for one to go. At the lodge he gave me many particulars which were interesting to us, relative to the late visit of the Spaniards.

I will attempt to give some memoranda of this expedition, which was the most important ever carried on from the province of New Mexico, and in fact the only one directed N. E. (except that mentioned by the Abbe Raynal[I-71] in his History of the Indies) to the Pawnees—of which see a more particular account hereafter. In the year 1806 our affairs with Spain began to wear a very serious aspect, and the troops of the two governments almost came to actual hostilities on the frontiers of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I was fitting out for my expedition from St. Louis, where some of the Spanish emissaries in that country transmitted the information to Majar. Merior [sic] and the Spanish council at that place, who immediately forwarded the information to the then commandant of Nacogdoches, Captain Sebastian Rodreriques [sic] who forwarded it to Colonel [Don Antonio] Cordero, by whom it was transmitted to [General Don Nimesio Salcedo, at Chihuahua,] the seat of government. This information was personally communicated to me, as an instance of the rapid means they possessed of transmitting information relative to the occurrences transacting on our frontiers. The expedition was then determined on, and had three objects in view:

1st. To descend the Red river, in order, if he met our expedition, to intercept and turn us back; or, should Major Sparks[I-72] and Mr. [Thomas] Freeman have missed the party from Nacogdoches, under the command of Captain Viana, to oblige them to return and not penetrate further into the country, or make them prisoners of war.

2d. To explore and examine all the internal parts of the country from the frontiers of the province of New Mexico to the Missouri between the La Platte [sentence unfinished].

3d. To visit the Tetaus, Pawnees republic, Grand Pawnees, Pawnee Mahaws, and Kans.[I-73] To the head chief of each of those nations the commanding officer bore flags, a commission, grand medal, and four mules; and with all of them he had to renew the chains of ancient amity which was said to have existed between their father, his most Catholic majesty, and his children the red people.

The commanding officers also bore positive orders to oblige all parties or persons, in the above-specified countries, either to retire from them into the acknowledged territories of the United States, or to make prisoners of them and conduct them into the province of N. Mexico. Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares, the officer selected from the five internal provinces to command this expedition, was a European (his uncle was one of the royal judges in the kingdom of New Spain), and had distinguished himself in several long expeditions against the Apaches and other Indian nations with whom the Spaniards were at war; added to these circumstances, he was a man of immense fortune, and generous in its disposal, almost to profusion; possessed a liberal education, high sense of honor, and a disposition formed for military enterprise. This officer marched from the province of Biscay with 100 dragoons of the regular service, and at Santa Fe, the place where the expedition was fitted out, he was joined by 500 of the mounted militia of that province, armed after the manner described by my notes on that subject, and completely equipped with ammunition, etc., for six months; each man leading with them (by order) two horses and one mule, the whole number of their beasts was 2,075. They descended the Red river 233 leagues; met the grand bands of the Tetaus, and held councils with them; then struck off N. E., and crossed the country to the Arkansaw, where Lieutenant Malgares left 240 of his men with the lame and tired horses, while he proceeded on with the rest to the Pawnee republic. Here he was met by the chiefs and warriors of the Grand Pawnees; held councils with the two nations and presented them the flags, medals, etc., which were destined for them. He did not proceed to the execution of his mission with the Pawnee Mahaws and Kans, as he represented to me, from the poverty of their horses and the discontent of his own men; but, as I conceive, from the suspicion and discontent which began to arise between the Spaniards and the Indians; the former wished to revenge the death of Villineuve and party, while the latter possessed all the suspicions of conscious villainy deserving punishment. Malgares took with him all the traders he found there from our country, some of whom, having been sent to Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at that place on my arrival, and applied to me for means to return to St. Louis. Lieutenant Malgares returned to Santa Fe the —— of October, when his militia was disbanded; but he remained in the vicinity of that place until we were brought in, when he, with dragoons, became our escort to the seat of government [in Chihuahua].

Sept. 26th. Finding our encampment not eligible as to situation, we moved down on to the prairie hill, about three-fourths of a mile nearer the village. We sent our interpreter to town to trade for provisions. About three o'clock in the afternoon 12 Kans arrived at the village, and informed Baroney that they had come to meet us, hearing that we were to be at the Pawnees' village. We pitched our camp upon a beautiful eminence, whence we had a view of the town and all that was transacting. In the evening Baroney, with the chief, came to camp to give us the news, and returned together.

Sept. 27th. Baroney arrived from the village about one o'clock, with Characterish, whose commission from the Governor of New Mexico was dated Santa Fe, June 15th, 1806, and three other chiefs, to all of whom we gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each, after which Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself accompanied them to town, where we remained a few hours, and returned. Appointed to-morrow for the interview with the Kans and Osage.

Sunday, Sept. 28th. Held a council of the Kans and Osage, and made them smoke of the pipe of peace. Two of the Kans agreed to accompany us. We received a visit from the chief of the village. Made an observation on an emersion of one of Jupiter's satellities.

Sept. 29th. Held our grand council with the Pawnees, at which were present not less than 400 warriors, the circumstances of which were extremely interesting. The notes I took on my grand council held with the Pawnee nation were seized by the Spanish government, together with all my speeches to the different nations. But it may be interesting to observe here, in case they should never be returned, that the Spaniards had left several of their flags in this village, one of which was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand council; and that among various demands and charges I gave them was, that the said flag should be delivered to me, and one of the United States' flags be received and hoisted in its place. This probably was carrying the pride of nations a little too far, as there had so lately been a large force of Spanish cavalry at the village, which had made a great impression on the minds of the young men, as to their power, consequence, etc., which my appearance with 20 infantry was by no means calculated to remove.

After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my discourse, but were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated the demand for the flag, adding "that it was impossible for the nation to have two fathers; that they must either be the children of the Spaniards, or acknowledge their American father." After a silence of some time an old man rose, went to the door, took down the Spanish flag, brought it and laid it at my feet; he then received the American flag, and elevated it on the staff which had lately borne the standard of his Catholic Majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American protection. Perceiving that every face in the council was clouded with sorrow, as if some great national calamity were about to befall them, I took up the contested colors, and told them "that as they had shown themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great American father, I did not wish to embarrass them with the Spaniards, for it was the wish of the Americans that their red brethren should remain peaceably around their own fires, and not embroil themselves in any disputes between the white people; and that for fear the Spaniards might return there in force again, I returned them their flag, but with an injunction that it should never be hoisted again during our stay." At this there was a general shout of applause, and the charge was particularly attended to.

Sept. 30th. Remained all day at the camp, but sent Baroney to town, who informed me on his return that the chief appeared to wish to throw great obstacles in our way. A great disturbance had taken place in the village, owing to one of the young Pawnees, Frank, who lately came from the United States, having taken the wife of an Osage and run away with her. The chief, in whose lodge the Osage put up, was extremely enraged, considering it a breach of hospitality to a person under his roof, and threatened to kill Frank if he caught him.

CHAPTER II.
ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE THROUGH KANSAS AND COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK, OCT. 1ST-NOV. 30TH, 1806.

Wednesday, Oct. 1st. Paid a visit to town and had a very long conversation with the chief, who urged everything in his power to induce us to turn back. Finally, he very candidly told us that the Spaniards wished to have gone further into our country, but he induced them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him and he wished us to do the same; that he had promised the Spaniards to act as he now did, and that we must proceed no further, or he must stop us by force of arms. My reply was, "that I had been sent out by our great father to explore the western country, to visit all his red children, to make peace between them, and turn them from shedding blood; that he might see how I had caused the Osage and Kans to meet to smoke the pipe of peace together, and take each other by the hand like brothers; that as yet my road had been smooth, with a blue sky over our heads. I had not seen any blood in our path; but he must know that the young warriors of his great American father were not women, to be turned back by words; that I should therefore proceed, and if he thought proper to stop me, he could attempt it; but we were men, well armed, and would sell our lives at a dear rate to his nation; that we knew our great father would send his young warriors there to gather our bones and revenge our deaths on his people, when our spirits would rejoice in hearing our exploits sung in the war-songs of our chiefs." I then left his lodge and returned to camp, in considerable perturbation of mind.

Oct. 2d. We received advice from our Kans that the chief had given publicity to his idea of stopping us by force of arms, which gave serious reflections to me, and was productive of many singular expressions from my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to trade for horses, but could not succeed. In the night we were alarmed by some savages coming near our camp at full speed; but they retreated equally rapidly, on being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. This created some degree of indignation in my little band, as we had noticed that all the day had passed without any traders presenting themselves, which appeared as if all intercourse was interdicted. I wrote to the secretary at war, the general, etc.

Oct. 3d. The intercourse again commenced. Traded for some horses, and wrote for my express.

Oct. 4th. Two French traders arrived at the village in order to procure horses to transport their goods from the Missouri to the village. They gave us information that Captains Lewis and Clark,[II-1] with all their people, had descended the river to St. Louis; this diffused general joy through our party. Our trade for horses advanced none this day.

Sunday, Oct. 5th. Buying horses. Preparing to march, and finishing my letters.

Oct. 6th. Marched my express.[II-2] Purchasing horses and preparing to march on the morrow.

Oct. 7th. In the morning we found two of our newly purchased horses missing. Sent in search of them; the Indians brought in one pretty early. Struck our tents and commenced loading our horses. Finding there was no probability of our obtaining the other lost one, we marched at 2 p. m.; and as the chief had threatened to stop us by force of arms, we made every arrangement to make him pay as dearly for the attempt as possible. The party was kept compact, and marched by a road round the village, in order that, if attacked, the savages would not have their houses to fly to for cover. I had given orders not to fire until within five or six paces, and then to charge with the bayonet and saber, when I believe it would have cost them at least 100 men to have exterminated us, which would have been necessary. The village appeared all to be in motion. I galloped up to the lodge of the chief, attended by my interpreter and one soldier, but soon saw there was no serious attempt to be made, although many young men were walking about with their bows, arrows, guns, and lances. After speaking to the chief with apparent indifference, I told him that I calculated on his justice in obtaining the horse, and that I should leave a man until the next day at twelve o'clock to bring him out. We then joined the party and pursued our route.

When I was once on the summit of the hill which overlooks the village, I felt my mind relieved from a heavy burden; yet all the evil I wished the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument, in the hands of our government, to open their ears and eyes with a strong hand, to convince them of our power.

Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, 18 soldiers, one interpreter, three Osage men, and one woman, making 25 warriors. We marched out and encamped on a small branch [of Rock creek], distant seven miles, on the same route we came in.[II-3] Rain in the night.

Oct. 8th. I conceived it best to send Baroney back to the village with a present, to be offered for our horse, the chief having suggested the propriety of this measure; he met his son and the horse with Sparks. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to the place where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they left the Pawnee village. Their encampment was circular, having only small fires round the circle to cook by. We counted 59 fires; now if we allow six men to each fire, they must have been 354 in number.[II-4] We encamped on a large branch of the second [Solomon's] fork of the Kans river. Distance 18 miles.[II-5]

Oct. 9th. Marched at eight o'clock, being detained until that time by our horses being at a great distance. At eleven o'clock we found the forks of the Spanish and Pawnee roads, and when we halted at twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the second chief, Iskatappe, and the American chief with one-third of the village. They presented us with a piece of bear-meat.

When we were about to march, we discovered that the dirk of the doctor had been stolen from behind the saddle. After marching the men, the doctor and myself, with the interpreter, went to the chief and demanded that he should cause a search to be made; it was done, but when the dirk was found, the possessor asserted that he had found it on the road. I told him that he did not speak the truth, and informed the chief that we never suffered a thing of ever so little value to be taken without liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his men, who began to encircle us around, and Lieutenant Wilkinson with the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indian demanded a knife before he would give it up; but as we refused to give any, the chief took one from his belt and gave him, took the dirk and presented it to the doctor, who immediately returned it to the chief as a present, desired Baroney to inform him he now saw it was not the value of the article but the act we despised, and then galloped off.

In about a mile we discovered a herd of elk, which we pursued; they took back in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately mounted 50 or 60 young men and joined in the pursuit. Then, for the first time in my life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages with their original weapons, bows and arrows; they buried the arrow up to the plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and pursued our party; we overtook them and encamped within the Grand or Solomon Fork, which we had crossed lower down on the 23d of September, on our route to the Pawnees. This was the Spanish encamping ground. Distance 18 miles.[II-6]

In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, who had not eaten for three days, two of which they had carried a sick companion whom they had left this day; we gave them for supper some meat and corn, and they immediately departed in order to carry their sick companion this seasonable supply. When they were coming into camp, the sentinel challenged, it being dark; they immediately, on seeing him bring his piece to the charge, supposing he was about to fire on them, advanced to give him their hands; he, however, not well discerning their motions, was on the point of firing; but being a cool, collected little fellow, called out that there were two Indians advancing on him, and asked if he should fire. This brought out the guard, when the poor affrighted savages were brought into camp, very much alarmed, for they had not heard of a white man's being in their country, and thought they were entering one of the camps of their own people.

Oct. 10th. Marched at seven o'clock and halted at twelve o'clock to dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee chief whose party we left the day before, who informed us the hunting-party had taken another road, and that he had come to bid us good-by. We left a large ridge on our left, and at sundown crossed it.... [?[II-7]] From this place we had an extensive view of the southwest; we observed a creek at a distance, to which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself arrived at eight o'clock at night; found water and wood, but had nothing to eat. Kindled a fire in order to guide the party; but they, not being able to find the route and not knowing the distance, encamped on the prairie without wood or water.

Oct. 11th. Ordered Baroney to return to find the party and conduct them to our camp. The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and on our return found all our people had arrived, except the rear-guard, which was in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came to our camp and brought some bones of a horse which the Spanish troops had been obliged to eat at their encampment on this creek. We took up our line of march at twelve o'clock, and at sundown the party halted on the Saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo, and did not make the camp until near ten o'clock at night. Killed one buffalo. Distance 12 miles.[II-8]

Sunday, Oct. 12th. Here Belle Oiseau and one Osage left us, and there remained only one man and woman of that nation. Their reason for leaving us was that our course bore too much west, and they desired to bear more for the hunting-ground of the Osage. In the morning we sent out to obtain the buffalo meat, and laid by until after breakfast. Proceeded at eleven o'clock; and crossing the [Grand Saline] river two or three times, we passed two camps where the Spanish troops had halted. Here they appeared to have remained some days, their roads being so much blended with the traces of the buffalo that we lost them entirely. This was a mortifying stroke, as we had reason to calculate that they had good guides, and were on the best route for wood and water. We took a southwest direction, and before night were fortunate enough to strike their roads on the left; and at dusk, much to our surprise, struck the east [Smoky Hill] fork of the Kans, or La Touche de la Cote Bucanieus. Killed one buffalo. Distance 18 miles.[II-9]

Oct. 13th. The day being rainy, we did not march until two o'clock; when, it having an appearance of clearing off, we raised our camp [and crossed the Smoky Hill river]; after which we marched seven miles and encamped on the head of a branch of the river we had left. Had to go two miles for water. Killed one cabrie.

Oct. 14th. It having drizzled rain all night, and the atmosphere being entirely obscured, we did not march until a quarter past nine o'clock, and commenced crossing the dividing ridge between the Kans and Arkansaw rivers.[II-10] Arrived on a branch of the latter at one o'clock; continued down it in search of water until after dusk, when we found a pond on the prairie, which induced us to halt. Sparks did not come up, being scarcely able to walk with rheumatic pains. Wounded several buffalo, but could not get one of them. Distance 24 miles.

Oct. 15th. In the morning rode out in search of the south trace, and crossed the low prairie [Cheyenne Bottoms], which was nearly all covered with ponds, but could not discover it. Finding Sparks did not arrive, sent two men in search of him, who arrived with him about eleven o'clock. At twelve o'clock we commenced our line of march, and at five o'clock Dr. Robinson and myself left the party at a large [Walnut[II-11]] creek, having pointed out a distant wood to Lieutenant Wilkinson for our encampment, in order to search some distance up it for the Spanish trace. Killed two buffalo and left part of our clothing with them to scare away the wolves. Went in pursuit of the party. On our arrival at the [Little Walnut] creek appointed for the encampment, did not find them. Proceeded down it for some miles, and not finding them, encamped, struck fire, and then supped on one of our buffalo tongues.

Oct. 16th. Early on horseback; proceeded up the [Little Walnut] creek some distance in search of our party, but at twelve o'clock crossed to our two buffaloes; found a great many wolves at them, notwithstanding the precautions taken to keep them off. Cooked some marrow-bones and again mounted our horses, and proceeded down the creek to their junction. Finding nothing of the party, I began to be seriously alarmed for their safety. Killed two more buffalo, made our encampment, and feasted sumptuously on the marrow-bones. Rain in the night.

Oct. 17th. Rose early, determining to search the [Little Walnut] creek to its source. Very hard rain, accompanied by a cold northwester all day. Encamped near night without being able to discover any signs of the party. Our sensations now became excruciating, not only for their personal safety, but for fear of the failure of the national objects intended to be accomplished by the expedition. Our own situation was not the most agreeable, not having more than four rounds of ammunition each, and being 400 miles in the nearest direction from the first civilized inhabitants. We, however, concluded to search for the party on the morrow, and if we did not succeed in finding them, to strike the Arkansaw, where we were in hopes to discover some traces, if not cut off by the savages.

Oct. 18th. Commenced our route at a good time, and about ten o'clock discovered two men on horseback in search of us—one my waiter. They informed us the party was encamped on the Arkansaw, about three miles south of where we then were; this surprised us very much, as we had no conception of that river being so near. On our arrival we were met by Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, with all the party, was greatly concerned for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the party's arrival, had not water in it six inches deep, and the stream was not more than 20 feet wide; but the rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river, which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank. These are not more than four feet in height, bordered by a few cottonwood trees; on the north side is a low swampy prairie; on the south, a sandy sterile desert at a small distance. In the afternoon the doctor and myself took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw, in order to search for some trees which might answer the purpose to make canoes; found but one, and returned at dusk. It commenced raining at twelve o'clock.

Sunday, Oct. 19th. Finding the river rising rapidly, I thought it best to secure our passage over [from the N. to the S. bank]; we consequently made it good by ten o'clock. Rain all day. Preparing our tools and arms for labor and the chase on the morrow.

Oct. 20th. Commenced our labor at two trees for canoes, but one proved too much doated.[II-12] Killed two buffalo and one cabrie. Discharged our guns at a mark, the best shot a prize of one tent and a pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at the root of the tree, in the grass; one of the balls struck him on the head and killed him. Ceased raining about twelve o'clock.

Oct. 21st. Dr. Robinson and myself mounted our horses, in order to go down the river to the entrance of the three last creeks we had crossed on our route; but meeting with buffalo, we killed four; also, one cabrie. Returned to the camp and sent for the meat.

Oct. 22d. Having sat up very late last evening, expecting the sergeant and party, who did not arrive, we were very anxious for them; but about ten o'clock Bradley arrived and informed us that they could not find the buffalo which we had killed on the prairie. They all arrived before noon. In the afternoon we scaffolded some meat, and nearly completed the frame of a skin canoe, which we concluded to build. Overhauled my instruments and made some rectifications preparatory to taking an observation, etc.

Oct. 23d. Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by one man, ascended the river with an intention of searching for the Spanish trace; at the same time we dispatched Baroney and our two hunters to kill some buffalo, to obtain the skins for canoes. We ascended the river about 20 miles to a large branch [Pawnee fork[II-13]] on the right. Just at dusk gave chase to a buffalo and were obliged to shoot 19 balls into him before we killed him. Encamped on the fork [at Larned, Pawnee Co.].

Oct. 24th. We ascended the right branch [Pawnee fork] about five miles [old Fort Larned], but could not see any sign of the Spanish trace; this is not surprising, as the river bears southwest, and they no doubt kept more to the west from the head of one branch to another. We returned and on our way killed some prairie-squirrels [Cynomys ludovicianus], or wishtonwishes, and nine large rattlesnakes [Crotalus confluentus], which frequent their villages. On our arrival, found the hunters had come in a boat, one hour before, with two buffalo and one elk skin.

The wishtonwish of the Indians, prairie-dogs of some travelers, or squirrels, as I should be inclined to denominate them, reside on the prairies of Louisiana in towns or villages, having an evident police established in their communities. The sites of their towns are generally on the brow of a hill, near some creek or pond, in order to be convenient to water, and that the high ground which they inhabit may not be subject to inundation. Their residence, being under ground, is burrowed out, and the earth, which answers the double purpose of keeping out the water and affording an elevated place in wet seasons to repose on, and to give them a further and more distinct view of the country. Their holes descend in a spiral form; therefore I could never ascertain their depth; but I once had 140 kettles of water poured into one of them in order to drive out the occupant, without effect. In the circuit of the villages they clear off all the grass, and leave the earth bare of vegetation; but whether it is from an instinct they possess inducing them to keep the ground thus cleared, or whether they make use of the herbage as food, I cannot pretend to determine. The latter opinion I think entitled to a preference, as their teeth designate them to be of the graminivorous species, and I know of no other substance which is produced in the vicinity of their positions on which they could subsist; and they never extend their excursions more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark brown color, except their bellies, which are white. Their tails are not so long as those of our gray squirrels, but are shaped precisely like theirs; their teeth, head, nails, and body are the perfect squirrel, except that they are generally fatter than that animal. Their villages sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in which there must be innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten steps in which there are two or more, and you see new ones partly excavated on all the borders of the town. We killed great numbers of them with our rifles and found them excellent meat, after they were exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means the rankness acquired by their subterraneous dwelling is corrected. As you approach their towns, you are saluted on all sides by the cry of "wishtonwish," from which they derive their name with the Indians, uttered in a shrill and piercing manner. You then observe them all retreating to the entrance of their burrows, where they post themselves, and regard every, even the slightest, movement that you make. It requires a very nice shot with a rifle to kill them, as they must be killed dead, for as long as life exists they continue to work into their cells. It is extremely dangerous to pass through their towns, as they abound with rattlesnakes, both of the yellow and black species; and strange as it may appear, I have seen the wishtonwish, the rattlesnake, the horn frog [Phrynosoma douglasi], with which the prairie abounds (termed by the Spaniards the cammellion [camaleon, i. e., chameleon], from their taking no visible sustenance), and a land-tortoise, all take refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert that it was their common place of resort; but I have witnessed the above facts more than in one instance.[II-14]

Oct. 25th. Took an observation; passed the day in writing, and preparing for the departure of Lieutenant Wilkinson.

Sunday, Oct. 26th. Delivered out a ration of corn by way of distinction of the Sabbath. Preparing for our departure.

Oct. 27th. Delivered to Lieutenant Wilkinson letters for the general[II-15] and our friends, with other papers, consisting of his instructions, traverse tables of our voyage, and a draught of our route to that place complete, in order that if we were lost, and he arrived in safety, we might not have made the tour without some benefit to our country. He took with him, in corn and meat, 21 days' provisions, and all the necessary tools to build canoes or cabins. Launched his canoes. We concluded we would separate in the morning, he to descend [the river], and we to ascend to the mountains.

Oct. 28th. As soon as possible all was in motion, my party crossing the river to the north side, and Lieutenant Wilkinson launching his canoes of skins and wood. We breakfasted together, and then filed off; but I suffered my party to march, while I remained to see Lieutenant Wilkinson sail. This he did at ten o'clock, having one skin canoe, made of four buffalo skins and two elk skins, which held three men besides himself and one Osage. In his wooden canoe were one soldier, one Osage, and their baggage; one other soldier marched on shore.[II-16] We parted with "God bless you" from both parties; they appeared to sail very well. In the pursuit of our party, Dr. Robinson, Baroney, one soldier, and myself, killed a brelau [blaireau, badger, Taxidea americana] and a buffalo; of the latter we took only his marrow-bones and liver. Arrived where our men had encamped, about dusk. Distance 14 miles.[II-17]

Oct. 29th. Marched after breakfast and in the first hour's march passed two fires, where 21 Indians had recently encamped, in which party, by their paintings on the rocks, there were seven guns. Killed a buffalo, halted, made fire, and feasted on the choice pieces of meat. About noon discovered two horses feeding with a herd of buffalo; we attempted to surround them, but they soon cleared our fleetest coursers. One appeared to be an elegant horse. These were the first wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours before night struck the Spanish road; and, as it was snowing, halted and encamped the party at the first woods on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then forded it, the ice running very thick, in order to discover the course the Spaniards took; but owing to the many buffalo roads, could not ascertain it. It evidently appeared that they had halted here some time, as the ground was covered with horse-dung for miles around. Returned to camp. The snow fell about two inches deep, and then it cleared up. Distance 12 miles.[II-18]

Oct. 30th. In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo, to have his marrow-bones for breakfast, which was accomplished. After breakfast the party marched up on the north side; the doctor and myself crossed with considerable difficulty, on account of the ice, to the Spanish camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover the Spanish trace, and came in at a point of woods south of the river, where we found our party encamped. We discovered also that the Spanish troops had marked the river up [i. e., left an up-river trail], and that a party of savages had been there not more than three days before. Killed two buffalo. Distance 4 miles. [Opposite Garfield, Pawnee Co., where Big Coon creek falls in.[II-19]]

Oct. 31st. Fine day; marched at three quarters past nine o'clock, on the Spanish road. Encamped, sun an hour high, after having made 16 miles [opposite Kinsley, Edwards Co.[II-20]].

We observed this day a species of crystallization on the road, when the sun was high, in low places where there had been water settled; on tasting it found it to be salt; this gave in my mind some authenticity to the report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Discovered the trace of about 20 savages who had followed our road; and of horses going down the river. Killed one buffalo, one elk, one deer.

Nov. 1st. Marched early; just after commencing our line, heard a gun on our left. The doctor, Baroney, and myself being in advance, and lying on the ground waiting for the party, a band of cabrie came up among our horses, to satisfy their curiosity; we could not resist the temptation of killing two, although we had plenty of meat. At the report of the gun they appeared astonished, and stood still until we hallowed [hallooed] at them to drive them away. Encamped in the evening on an island.[II-21]

Upon using my glass to observe the adjacent country, I observed on the prairie a herd of horses. Dr. Robinson and Baroney accompanied me to go and view them; when within a quarter of a mile they discovered us, and came immediately up near us, making the earth tremble under them; this brought to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They stopped and gave us an opportunity to view them; among them there were some very beautiful bays, blacks, and grays, and indeed of all colors. We fired at a black horse, with an idea of creasing[II-22] him, but did not succeed; they flourished round and returned again to see us, when we returned to camp.

Sunday, Nov. 2d. In the morning, for the purpose of trying the experiment, we equipped six of our fleetest coursers with riders and ropes, to noose the wild horses, if in our power to come among the band. They stood until we came within forty yards of them, neighing and whinneying, when the chase began, which we continued about two miles, without success. Two of our horses ran up with them; but we could not take them. Returned to camp. I have since laughed at our folly; for taking wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever attempted, even with the fleetest horses and most expert ropers. See my account of wild horses and the manner of taking them, in my dissertation on the province of Texas. Marched late. Killed one buffalo. River turned to north by west. Hills changed to the north side. Distance 13½ miles.[II-23]

Nov. 3d. Marched at ten o'clock. Passed numerous herds of buffalo, elk, some horses, etc., all traveling south. The river bottoms full of salt ponds; grass similar to our salt meadows. Killed one buffalo. Distance 25½ miles.[II-24]

Nov. 4th. This day brought to our recollection the fate of our countrymen at Recovery,[II-25] when defeated by the Indians, in the year 1791. In the afternoon discovered the north side of the river to be covered with animals; which, when we came to them, proved to be buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an exaggeration to say there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy of remark that in all the extent of country yet crossed, we never saw one cow, and that now the face of the earth appeared to be covered with them. Killed one buffalo. Distance 24½ miles.[II-26]

Nov. 5th. Marched at our usual hour; at the end of two miles shot a buffalo and two deer, and halted, which detained us so long that we foolishly concluded to halt this day and kill some cows and calves, which lay on the opposite side of the river. I took post on a hill, and sent some horsemen over, when a scene took place which gave a lively representation of an engagement. The herd of buffalo being divided into separate bands covered the prairie with dust, and first charged on the one side, then to the other, as the pursuit of the horsemen impelled them; the report and smoke from the guns added to the pleasure of the scene, which in part compensated for our detention.

Nov. 6th. Marched early, but was detained two or three hours by the cows which we killed. The cow buffalo was equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route; suffice it to say that the face of the prairie was covered with them, on each side of the river; their numbers exceeded imagination. Distance 16 miles.[II-27]

Nov. 7th. Marched early. The herbage being very poor, concluded to lay by on the morrow, in order to recruit our horses. Killed three cow buffalo, one calf, two wolves, one brelaw. Distance 18 miles.[II-28]

Nov. 8th. Our horses being very much jaded and our situation very eligible, we halted all day; jerked meat, mended mockinsons, etc.

Sunday, Nov. 9th. Marched early. At twelve o'clock struck the Spanish road, which had been on the outside of us, and which appeared to be considerably augmented. On our arrival at the camp, found it to consist of 96 fires, from which a reasonable conclusion might be drawn that there were from 600 to 700 men. We this day found the face of the country considerably changed, being hilly, with springs; passed numerous herds of buffalo and some horses. Distance 27 miles.[II-29]

Nov. 10th. The hills increased; the banks of the river covered with groves of young cottonwood; the river itself much narrower and crooked. Our horses growing weak; two gave out; bring them along empty; cut down trees at night for them to browse on. Killed one buffalo. Distance 20 miles.[II-30]

Nov. 11th. Marched at the usual hour. Passed two old camps, and one of last summer, which had belonged to the savages, and we supposed Tetaus. Passed a Spanish camp where it appeared they remained some days, as we conjectured, to lay up meat, previously to entering the Tetau country, as the buffalo evidently began to grow much less numerous. Finding the impossibility of performing the voyage in the time proposed, I determined to spare no pains to accomplish every object, even should it oblige me to spend another winter in the desert. Killed one buffalo, one brelaw. Distance 24 miles.[II-31]

Nov. 12th. Was obliged to leave the two horses, which entirely gave out. Missed the Spanish road. Killed one buffalo. Distance 20 miles.[II-32]

Nov. 13th. We marched at the usual hour. The river-banks began to be entirely covered with woods on both sides, but no other species than cotton-wood. Discovered very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our hunters informed me he saw a man on horseback, ascending a ravine on our left. Discovered signs of war-parties ascending the river. Wounded several buffalo. Killed one turkey, the first we have seen since we left the Pawnees. [Supposed distance 12 miles.[II-33]]

Nov. 14th. In the morning, Dr. Robinson, one man and myself, went up the ravine in which the man was supposed to have been seen, but could make no important discovery. Marched at two o'clock; passed a point of red rocks and one large creek.[II-34] Distance 10 miles.

Nov. 15th. Marched early. Passed two deep creeks[II-35] and many high points of rocks; also, large herds of buffalo.

At two o'clock in the afternoon I thought I could distinguish a mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue cloud; viewed it with the spy glass, and was still more confirmed in my conjecture, yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in front with me; but in half an hour they appeared in full view before us. When our small party arrived on the hill they with one accord gave three cheers to the Mexican mountains.[II-36] Their appearance can easily be imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghenies; but their sides were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. Those were a spur of the grand western chain of mountains which divide the waters of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic ocean; and it [the spur] divides the waters which empty into the Bay of the Holy Spirit from those of the Mississippi, as the Alleghenies do those which discharge themselves into the latter river and the Atlantic. They appear to present a natural boundary between the province of Louisiana and New Mexico, and would be a defined and natural boundary.

Before evening we discovered a fork [Purgatory river] on the south side bearing S. 25° W.; and as the Spanish troops appeared to have borne up it, we encamped on its banks, about one mile from its confluence, that we might make further discoveries on the morrow, Killed three buffalo. Distance 24 miles.[II-37]

Sunday, Nov. 16th. After ascertaining that the Spanish troops had ascended the right branch or main river, we marched at two o'clock. The Arkansaw appeared at this place to be much more navigable than below, where we first struck it; and for any impediment I have yet discovered in the river, I would not hesitate to embark in February at its mouth and ascend to the Mexican mountains, with crafts properly constructed. Distance 11½ miles.[II-38]

Nov. 17th. Marched at our usual hour; pushed on with an idea of arriving at the mountains, but found at night no visible difference in their appearance from what we did yesterday. One of our horses gave out and was left in a ravine, not being able to ascend the hill; but I sent back for him and had him brought to the camp. Distance 23½ miles.[II-39]

Nov. 18th. As we discovered fresh signs of the savages, we concluded it best to stop and kill some meat, for fear we should get into a country where we could not kill game. Sent out the hunters; walked myself to an eminence whence I took the courses to the different mountains, and a small sketch of their appearance. In the evening, found the hunters had killed without mercy, having slain 17 buffalo and wounded at least 20 more.

Nov. 19th. Having several buffalo brought in, gave out sufficient to last this month. I found it expedient to remain and dry the meat, as our horses were getting very weak, and the one died which was brought up on the 17th. Had a general feast of marrow-bones, 136 of them furnishing the repast.

Nov. 20th. Marched at our usual hour; but as our horses' loads were considerably augmented by the death of one horse and the addition of 900 lbs. of meat, we moved slowly and made only 18 miles.[II-40] Killed two buffalo and took some choice pieces.

Nov. 21st. Marched at our usual hour; passed two Spanish camps, within three miles of each other. We again discovered the tracks of two men, who had ascended the river yesterday. This caused us to move with caution; but at the same time increased our anxiety to discover them. The river was certainly as navigable here, and I think much more so, than some hundred miles below; which I suppose arises from its flowing through a long course of sandy soil, which must absorb much of the water, and render it shoaler below than above, near the mountains. Distance 21 miles.[II-41]

Nov. 22d. Marched at our usual hour, and with rather more caution than usual. After having marched about five miles on the prairie, we descended into the bottom—the front only[II-42]; when Baroney cried out "Voila un Savage!" We observed a number running from the woods toward us; we advanced to them, and on turning my head to the left I observed several running on the hill, as it were to surround us; one with a stand of colors. This caused a momentary halt; but perceiving those in front reaching out their hands, and without arms, we again advanced; they met us with open arms, crowding round to touch and embrace us. They appeared so anxious that I dismounted from my horse; in a moment a fellow had mounted him and was off. I then observed that the doctor and Baroney were in the same predicament. The Indians were embracing the soldiers. After some time tranquillity was so far restored, they having returned our horses all safe, as to enable us to learn they were a war-party from the Grand Pawnees, who had been in search of the Tetaus; but not finding them, were now on their return. An unsuccessful war-party, on their return home, are always ready to embrace an opportunity of gratifying their disappointed vengeance on the first persons whom they meet.

Made for the woods and unloaded our horses, when the two partisans endeavored to arrange the party; it was with great difficulty that they got them tranquil, and not until there had been a bow or two bent on the occasion. When in some order, we found them to be 60 warriors, half with fire-arms, and half with bows, arrows, and lances. Our party was 16 total. In a short time they were arranged in a ring, and I took my seat between the two partisans; our colors were placed opposite each other; the utensils for smoking were paraded on a small seat before us; thus far all was well. I then ordered half a carrot of tobacco, one dozen knives, 60 fire steels, and 60 flints to be presented them. They demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles, etc., all of which they were refused, notwithstanding the pressing instances of my interpreter to accord to some points. The pipes yet lay unmoved, as if they were undetermined whether to treat us as friends or enemies; but after some time we were presented with a kettle of water, drank, smoked, and ate together. During this time Dr. Robinson was standing up to observe their actions, in order that we might be ready to commence hostilities as soon as they. They now took their presents and commenced distributing them, but some malcontents threw them away, by way of contempt.

We began to load our horses, when they encircled us and commenced stealing everything they could. Finding it was difficult to preserve my pistols, I mounted my horse, when I found myself frequently surrounded; during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols. The doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and all the soldiers in their positions, in taking things from them. One having stolen my tomahawk, I informed the chief; but he paid no respect, except to reply that "they were pitiful." Finding this, I determined to protect ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair began to take a serious aspect. I ordered my men to take their arms and separate themselves from the savages; at the same time declaring to them that I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which they commenced filing off immediately; we marched about the same time, and found they had made out to steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax, five canteens, and sundry other small articles. After leaving them, when I reflected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely mortified, that the smallness of my number obliged me thus to submit to the insults of lawless banditti, it being the first time a savage ever took anything from me with the least appearance of force.

After encamping at night the doctor and myself went about one mile back, and waylaid the road, determined in case we discovered any of the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at least; but after waiting behind some logs until some time in the night, and discovering no person, we returned to camp. Killed two buffalo and one deer. Distance 17 miles.[II-43]

Sunday, Nov. 23d. Marched at ten o'clock; at one o'clock came to the third fork [St. Charles river], on the south side, and encamped at night in the point of the grand forks [confluence of Fountain river]. As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many small branches, and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the party in a defensible situation, and ascend the north fork [Fountain river] to the high point [Pike's Peak] of the blue mountain [Front range], which we conceived would be one day's march, in order to be enabled, from its pinical [pinnacle], to lay down the various branches and positions of the country. Killed five buffalo. Distance 19 miles.[II-44]

Nov. 24th. Early in the morning we cut down 14 logs, and put up a breast work,[II-45] five feet high on three sides and the other thrown on the river. After giving the necessary orders for their government during my absence, in case of our not returning, we marched at one o'clock, with an idea of arriving at the foot of the mountain; but found ourselves obliged to take up our night's lodging under a single cedar which we found in the prairie, without water and extremely cold. Our party besides myself consisted of Dr. Robinson, and Privates Miller and Brown. Distance 12 miles.[II-46]

Nov. 25th. Marched early, with an expectation of ascending the mountain, but was only able to encamp at its base, after passing over many small hills covered with cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment was on a [Turkey] creek, where we found no water for several miles from the mountain; but near its base, found springs sufficient. Took a meridional observation, and the altitude of the mountain. Killed two buffalo. Distance 22 miles.[II-47]

Nov. 26th. Expecting to return to our camp the same evening, we left all our blankets and provisions at the foot of the [Cheyenne] mountain. Killed a deer of a new species [Cariacus macrotis], and hung his skin on a tree with some meat. We commenced ascending; found it very difficult, being obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes almost perpendicular; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave, without blankets, victuals, or water.[II-48] We had a fine clear sky, while it was snowing at the bottom. On the side of the mountain we found only yellow and pitch-pine. Some distance up we found buffalo; higher still the new species of deer, and pheasants [dusky grouse, Dendragapus obscurus].

Nov. 27th. Arose hungry, dry, and extremely sore, from the inequality of the rocks on which we had lain all night, but were amply compensated for toil by the sublimity of the prospect below. The unbounded prairie was overhung with clouds, which appeared like the ocean in a storm, wave piled on wave and foaming, while the sky was perfectly clear where we were. Commenced our march up the mountain, and in about one hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here we found the snow middle-deep; no sign of beast or bird inhabiting this region. The thermometer, which stood at 9° above zero at the foot of the mountain, here fell to 4° below zero. The summit of the Grand Peak, which was entirely bare of vegetation and covered with snow, now appeared at the distance of 15 or 16 miles from us. It was as high again as what we had ascended, and it would have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its base, when I believe no human being could have ascended to its pinical. This, with the condition of my soldiers, who had only light overalls on, no stockings, and were in every way ill provided to endure the inclemency of the region; the bad prospect of killing anything to subsist on, with the further detention of two or three days which it must occasion, determined us to return. The clouds from below had now ascended the mountain and entirely enveloped the summit, on which rest eternal snows. We descended by a long, deep ravine, with much less difficulty than contemplated. Found all our baggage safe, but the provisions all destroyed. It began to snow, and we sought shelter under the side of a projecting rock, where we all four made a meal on one partridge and a piece of deer's ribs the ravens had left us, being the first we had eaten in that 48 hours.

Nov. 28th. Marched at nine o'clock. Kept straight on down the [Turkey] creek to avoid the hills.[II-49] At half past one o'clock shot two buffalo, when we made the first full meal we had made in three days. Encamped in a valley under a shelving rock. The land here very rich, and covered with old Tetau [Comanche] camps.

Nov. 29th. Marched after a short repast, and arrived at our camp before night; found all well.

Sunday, Nov. 30th. Marched at eleven o'clock; it snowed very fast, but my impatience to be moving would not permit my lying still at that camp. The doctor, Baroney, and myself went to view a Tetau encampment, which appeared to be about two years old; and from their having cut down so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, we concluded there must have been at least 1,000 souls. Passed several more in the course of the day; also one Spanish camp. This day came to the first cedar and pine. Killed two deer. Distance 15 miles.[II-50]

CHAPTER III.
ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO ON HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAW AND RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH, 1807.

Monday, Dec. 1st. The storm still continuing with violence, we remained encamped; the snow by night was one foot deep. Our horses were obliged to scrape it away to obtain their miserable pittance, and to increase their misfortunes the poor animals were attacked by the magpies, which, attracted by the scent of their sore backs, alighted on them, and in defiance of their wincing and kicking, picked many places quite raw. The difficulty of procuring food rendered those birds so bold as to alight on our men's arms and eat meat out of their hands. One of our hunters went out, but killed nothing.

Dec. 2d. It cleared off in the night, and in the morning the thermometer stood at 17° below zero (Reaumer [Réaumur]), being three times as cold as any morning we had yet experienced. We killed an old buffalo on the opposite [north] side of the river, which here was so deep as to swim horses. Marched and found it necessary to cross to the north side, about two miles up, as the ridge joined the river.[III-1] The ford was a good one, but the ice ran very bad, and two of the men got their feet frozen before we could get accommodated with fire, etc. Secured some of our old buffalo and continued our march. The country being very rugged and hilly, one of our horses took a freak in his head and turned back, which occasioned three of our rear-guard to lie out all night; I was very apprehensive they might perish on the prairie. Distance 13 miles.

Dec. 3d. The weather moderating to 3° below zero, our absentees joined, one with his feet frozen, but were not able to bring up the horse. I sent two men back on horseback. The hardships of last voyage [i. e., that up the Mississippi, winter of 1805-6] had now begun; and had the climate only been as severe as the climate then was, some of the men must have perished, for they had no winter clothing. I wore myself cotton overalls, for I had not calculated on being out in that inclement season of the year.

Dr. Robinson and myself, with assistants, went out and took the altitude of the north mountain [Pike's Peak], on the base of a mile. The perpendicular height of this mountain, from the level of the prairie, was 10,581 feet, and admitting that the prairie was 8,000 feet from the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this peak 18,581 feet; equal to some and surpassing the calculated height of others for the peak of Teneriffe, and falling short of that of Chimborazo only 1,701 feet. Indeed, it was so remarkable as to be known to all the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, to be spoken of with admiration by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and to be the bounds of their travels N. W. In our wandering in the mountains it was never out of sight, except when in a valley, from the 14th of November to the 27th of January.[III-2]

After this, together with Sparks, we endeavored to kill a cow, but without effect. Killed two bulls, that the men might use pieces of their hides for mockinsons. Left Sparks out. On our return to camp found the men had got back with the strayed horse, but too late to march.

Dec. 4th. Marched about five o'clock; took up Sparks, who had succeeded in killing a cow. Killed two buffaloes and six turkeys. Distance 20 miles.[III-3]

Dec. 5th. Marched at our usual hour. Passed one very bad place of falling rocks; had to carry our loads. Encamped on the main branch of the river [as distinguished from Grape creek], near the entrance of the South [Wet] mountain. In the evening walked up to the mountain. Heard 14 guns at camp during my absence, which alarmed me considerably; returned as quickly as possible, and found that the cause of my alarm was their shooting turkeys. Killed two buffaloes and nine turkeys. Distance 18 miles.[III-4]

Dec. 6th. Sent out three different parties to hunt the Spanish trace, but without success. The doctor and myself followed the river into the mountain, where it was bounded on each side by the rocks of the mountain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 or 60 feet [in the "Royal Gorge">[. Killed two buffaloes, two deer, one turkey.

Sunday, Dec. 7th. We again dispatched parties in search of the trace. One party discovered it, on the other side of the river, and followed it into the valley of the river at the entrance of the mountain, where they met two parties who were returning from exploring the two branches[III-5] of the river, in the mountains; of which they reported that they had ascended until the river was merely a brook, bounded on both sides with perpendicular rocks, impracticable for horses ever to pass them; they had then recrossed the river to the north side, and discovered, as they supposed, that the Spanish troops had ascended a dry valley to the right. On their return they found some rock-salt, samples of which were brought me. We determined to march the morrow to the entrance of the valley, there to examine the salt and the road. Killed one wildcat.

Dec. 8th. On examining the trace found yesterday, conceived it to have been only a reconnoitering party, dispatched from the main body; and on analyzing the rock-salt, found it to be strongly impregnated with sulphur. There were some very strong sulphurated springs at its foot. Returned to camp; took with me Dr. Robinson and Miller, and descended the river, in order to discover certainly if the whole [Spanish] party had come by this route. Descended about seven miles on the south side [of the Arkansaw]. Saw great quantities of turkeys and deer. Killed one deer.

Dec. 9th. Before we marched, killed a fine buck at our camp as he was passing. Found the Spanish camp about four miles below; and, from every observation we could make, conceived they had all ascended the river. Returned to camp, where we arrived about two o'clock. Found all well; would have moved immediately, but four men were out reconnoitering. Killed three deer.

Dec. 10th. Marched and found the road over the mountain to be excellent. Encamped in a dry ravine.[III-6] Obliged to melt snow for ourselves and horses; and as there was nothing else for the latter to eat, gave them one pint of corn each. Killed one buffalo.

Dec. 11th. Marched at ten o'clock, and in one mile struck a branch [Oil creek] of the Arkansaw on which the supposed Spaniards had encamped, where there was both water and grass. Kept up this branch, but was frequently embarrassed as to the trace; at three o'clock, having no sign of it, halted and encamped, and went out to search it; found it about one mile to the right. Distance 15 miles.

Dec. 12th. Marched at nine o'clock. Continued up the same branch [Oil creek] as yesterday. The ridges on our right and left appeared to grow lower, but mountains appeared on our flanks, through the intervals, covered with snow. Owing to the weakness of our horses, we made only 12 miles.[III-7]

Dec. 13th. Marched at the usual hour; passed large springs, and the supposed Spanish camp; crossed at twelve o'clock a dividing ridge,[III-8] and immediately fell on a small branch running N. 20° W. There being no appearance of wood, we left it and the Spanish trace to our right, and made for the hills to encamp. After the halt I took my gun and went out to see what discovery I could make. After marching about two miles north, fell on a river 40 yards wide, frozen over; which, after some investigation, I found ran northeast. This was the occasion of much surprise, as we had been taught to expect to meet with the branches of Red river, which should run southeast. Query: Must it not be the headwaters of the river Platte? [Answer: You are on the South Platte, at the head of Eleven Mile cañon.] If so, the Missouri must run much more west than is generally represented; for the Platte is a small river, by no means presenting an expectation of so extensive a course. One horse gave out and was left. Distance 18 miles.

Sunday, Dec. 14th. Marched; struck the river, ascended it four miles, and encamped on the north side.[III-9] The prairie, being about two miles wide, was covered for at least six miles along the banks of the river with horse-dung and the marks of Indian camps, which had been made since cold weather, as was evident by the fires which were in the center of the lodges. The sign made by their horses was astonishing, and would have taken a thousand horses some months. As it was impossible to say which course the Spaniards had pursued, amongst this multiplicity of signs, we halted early, and discovered that they or the savages had ascended the river. We determined to pursue them, as the geography of the country had turned out to be so different from our expectations. We were somewhat at a loss which course to pursue, unless we attempted to cross the snow-capped mountains to the southeast of us, which was almost impossible. Burst one of our rifles, which was a great loss, as it made three guns which had burst; five had been broken on the march, and one of my men was now armed with my sword and pistols. Killed two buffaloes.

Dec. 15th. After repairing our guns we marched, but were obliged to leave another horse. Ascended the river, both sides of which were covered with old Indian camps, at which we found corn-cobs. This induced us to believe that those savages, although erratic, must remain long enough in one position to cultivate this grain, or obtain it of the Spaniards. From their sign they must have been extremely numerous, and possessed vast numbers of horses. My poor fellows suffered extremely with cold, being almost naked. Distance 10 miles.[III-10]

Dec. 16th. Marched up the river about two miles and killed a buffalo; when, finding no road up the stream, we halted and dispatched parties in different courses, the doctor and myself ascending high enough to enable me to lay down the course of the river into the mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitered the adjacent country, and concluded, putting the Spanish trace out of the question, to bear our course southwest, for the head of Red river.[III-11] One of our party found a large camp, which had been occupied by at least 3,000 Indians, with a large cross in the middle. Query: Are those people Catholics? [Answer: No—party of Comanches and Kiowas, among whom was James Pursley.]

Dec. 17th. Marched; and on striking a left-hand fork of the river we had left, found it to be the main branch [of the South Platte]; ascended it to some distance, but finding it to bear too much to the north, we encamped about two miles from it, for the purpose of benefiting by its water. Distance 15 miles.[III-12]

Dec. 18th. Marched, and crossed the mountain [one of the Trout Creek Pass hills] which lay southwest of us; in a distance of seven miles arrived at a small spring. Some of our lads observed that they supposed it to be Red river, to which I then gave very little credit. On entering a gap in the next mountain [of the Park range], came past an excellent spring, which formed a fine [Trout] creek. This we followed through narrows in the mountains for about six miles. Found many evacuated camps of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing out the ground for the encampment, the doctor and myself went on to make discoveries, as was our usual custom, and in about four miles' march we struck what we supposed to be Red river [but was the Arkansaw], which here was about 25 yards wide, ran with great rapidity, and was full of rocks. We returned to the party with the news, which gave general pleasure. Determined to remain a day or two in order to examine the source. Snowing. Distance 18 miles.[III-13]

Dec. 19th. Marched down the creek near the opening of the prairie, and encamped;[III-14] sent out parties hunting, etc., but had no success. Still snowing and stormy; making preparations to take an observation.

Dec. 20th. Having found a fine place for pasture on the river, sent our horses down to it with a guard; also, three parties out hunting, all of whom returned without success. Took an observation. As there was no prospect of killing any game, it was necessary that the party should leave that place. I therefore determined that the doctor and Baroney should descend the river in the morning; that myself and two men would ascend; and that the rest of the party should descend after the doctor, until they obtained provisions and could wait for me.

Sunday, Dec. 21st. The doctor and Baroney marched; the party remained for me to take a meridional observation; after which we separated. Myself and the two men who accompanied me, Mountjoy and Miller, ascended 12 miles[III-15] and encamped on the north side. The river continued close to the north mountain [Park range], running through a narrow rocky channel in some places not more than 20 feet wide and at least 10 feet deep. Its banks were bordered by yellow pine, cedar, etc.

Dec. 22d. Marched up [the Arkansaw] 13 miles,[III-16] to a large point of the mountain, whence we had a view at least 35 miles, to where the river entered the mountains; it being at that place not more than 10 or 15 feet wide, and properly speaking, only a brook. From this place, after taking the course and estimating the distance, we returned to our camp of last evening. Killed one turkey and a hare.

Dec. 23d. Marched early, and at two o'clock discovered the trace of our party on the opposite side of the river; forded it, although extremely cold, and marched until some time in the night, when we arrived at the second night's encampment[III-17] of our party. Our clothing was frozen stiff, and we ourselves were considerably benumbed.

Dec. 24th. The party's provisions extended only to the 23d, and their orders were not to halt until they killed some game, and then wait for us; consequently they might have been considerably advanced. About eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on a prairie, who informed me that he and Baroney had been absent from the party two days without killing anything, also without eating; but that overnight they had killed four buffaloes, and that he was in search of the men. I suffered the two lads [Miller, Mountjoy] with me to go to the camp where the meat was, as we had also been nearly two days without eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trace and found them encamped on the river-bottom. Sent out horses for the meat. Shortly afterward Sparks arrived and informed us he had killed four cows. Thus, from being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in our camp.[III-18]

We now again found ourselves all assembled together on Christmas Eve, and appeared generally to be content, although all the refreshment we had to celebrate that day with was buffalo meat, without salt, or any other thing whatever. My little excursion up the river had been in order to establish the geography of the sources of the supposed Red river. As I well knew that the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter, [William] Dunbar, and [Thomas] Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in the extent of their voyage up said river, I determined that its upper branches should be equally well explored. In this voyage I had already ascertained the sources of the [Little] Osage and White [Neosho] rivers, been round the head of the Kans river [i. e., above the confluence of its Smoky Hill and Republican forks], and on the headwaters of the [South] Platte.

Dec. 25th. It being stormy weather and having meat to dry, I concluded to lie by this day. Here I must take the liberty of observing that, in this situation, the hardships and privations we underwent were on this day brought more fully to our mind, having been accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra enjoyments. But here, 800 miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most inclement season of the year—not one person clothed for the winter—many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks, etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet ground, one side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind—such was in part the situation of the party, whilst some were endeavoring to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath the serious consideration of a man on a voyage of such a nature. We spent the day as agreeably as could be expected from men in our situation.

Caught a bird of a new species [Conurus carolinensis] having made a trap for him. This bird was of a green color, almost the size of a quail, had a small tuft on its head like a pheasant, and was of the carnivorous species; it differed from any bird we ever saw in the United States. We kept him with us in a small wicker cage, feeding him on meat, until I left the interpreter on the Arkansaw, with whom I left it. We at one time took a companion of the same species and put them in the same cage, when the first resident never ceased attacking the stranger until he killed him.

Dec. 26th. Marched at two o'clock and made 7½ miles to the entrance of the mountains.[III-19] On this piece of prairie the river spreads considerably, and forms several small islands; a large stream [South Arkansaw] enters from the south. As my boy and some others were sick, I omitted pitching our tent in order that they might have it; in consequence of which we were completely covered with snow on top, as well as that part on which we lay.

Dec. 27th. Marched over an extremely rough road; our horses received frequent falls, and cut themselves considerably on the rocks. From there being no roads of buffalo, or signs of horses, I am convinced that neither those animals, nor the aborigines of the country, ever take this route, to go from the source of the river out of the mountains; but that they must cross one of the chains to the right or left, and find a smoother tract to the lower country. Were obliged to unload our horses and carry the baggage at several places. Distance 12½ miles.[III-20]

Sunday, Dec. 28th. Marched over an open space [Pleasant Valley]; and, from the appearance before us, concluded we were going out of the mountains; but at night encamped at the entrance of the most perpendicular precipices on both sides, through which the river ran and our course lay. Distance 16 miles.[III-21]

Dec. 29th. Marched; but owing to the extreme ruggedness of the road, made but five miles.[III-22] Saw one of a new species of animal on the mountains; ascended to kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the impossibility of getting along with the horses, made one sled, which with the men of three horses, carries their load [i. e., on which the men dragged the loads of three horses].

Dec. 30th. Marched; but at half past one o'clock were obliged to halt and send back for the sled loads, as the men had broken it and could not proceed, owing to the waters running over the ice. Crossed our horses twice on the ice. Distance eight miles.[III-23]

Dec. 31st. Marched; had frequently to cross the river on the ice; horses falling down, we were obliged to pull them over on the ice. The river turned so much to the north as almost induced us to believe it was the Arkansaw. Distance 10¾ miles.[III-24]

Jan. 1st, 1807. The doctor and one man marched early, in order to precede the party until they should kill a supply of provision. We had great difficulty in getting our horses along, some of the poor animals having nearly killed themselves in falling on the ice. Found on the way one of the mountain rams [bighorn, Ovis montana], which the doctor and Brown had killed and left in the road. Skinned it with horns, etc. At night ascended a mountain, and discovered a prairie ahead about eight miles, the news of which gave great joy to the party.

Jan. 2d. Labored all day, but made only one mile; many of our horses were much wounded in falling on the rocks. Provision growing short, left Stoute and Miller with two loads, to come on with a sled on the ice, which was on the water in some of the coves. Finding it almost impossible to proceed any further with the horses by the bed of the river, ascended the mountain and immediately after were again obliged to descend an almost perpendicular side of the mountain; in effecting which, one horse fell down the precipice, and bruised himself so miserably that I conceived it mercy to cause the poor animal to be shot. Many others were nearly killed with falls received. Left two more men with loads, and tools to make sleds. The two men we had left in the morning had passed us.

Jan. 3d. Left two more men to make sleds and come on. We pursued the river, and with great difficulty made six miles by frequently cutting roads on the ice, and covering it with earth, in order to go round precipices, etc. The men left in the morning encamped with us at night; but those of the day before we saw nothing of. This day two of the horses became senseless from the bruises received on the rocks, and were obliged to be left.[III-25]

Sunday, Jan. 4th. We made the prairie about three o'clock, when I detached Baroney and two soldiers with the horses, in order to find some practicable way for them to get out of the mountains light. I then divided the others into two parties of two men each, to make sleds and bring on the baggage. I determined to continue down the river alone, until I could kill some sustenance, and find the two men who left us on the 2d inst., or the doctor and his companion; for we had no provision, and everyone had then to depend on his own exertion for safety and subsistence. Thus we were divided into eight different parties, viz.: 1st. The doctor and his companion; 2d. The two men with the first sled; 3d. The interpreter and the two men with the horses; 4th. Myself; 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, two men each, with sleds at different distances; all of whom, except the last, had orders, if they killed any game, to secure some part in a conspicuous place, for their companions in the rear. I marched about five miles on the river, which was one continued fall through a narrow channel, with immense cliffs on both sides.[III-26] Near night I came to a place where the rocks were perpendicular on both sides, and there was no ice, except a narrow border on the water. I began to look about, in order to discover which way the doctor and his companion had managed, and to find what had become of the two lads with the first sled, when I discovered one of the latter climbing up the side of the rocks. I called to him; he and his companion immediately joined me. They said they had not known whether we were before or in the rear; that they had eaten nothing for the last two days, and that this night they had intended to have boiled a deer-skin to subsist on. We at length discovered a narrow ravine, where was the trace of the doctor and his companion; as the water had run down it and frozen hard, it was one continuous sheet of ice. We ascended it with the utmost difficulty and danger, loaded with the baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we found an encampment of the doctor, and where they had killed a deer; but they had now no meat. He afterward informed me that they had left the greatest part of it hanging on a tree, but supposed the birds had destroyed it. I left the boys to bring up the remainder of the baggage, and went out in order to kill some subsistence; wounded a deer, but the darkness of the night approaching, could not find him. I returned hungry, weary, and dry, and had only snow to supply the calls of nature. Distance 8 miles.

Jan. 5th. I went out in the morning to hunt, while the two lads were bringing up some of their loads still left at the foot of the mountain. Wounded several deer, but was surprised to find I killed none. On examining my gun discovered her bent, owing, as I suppose, to some fall on the ice or rocks; shortly afterward received a fall on the side of a hill, which broke her off by the breach. This put me into désepoir, as I calculated on it as my grandest resource for the great part of my party; returned to my companions sorely fatigued and hungry. I then took a double-barreled gun and left them, with assurances that the first animal I killed, I would return with part for their relief. About ten o'clock rose [that is, I surmounted] the highest summit of the [Noonan] mountain, when the unbounded spaces of the prairie again presented themselves to my view; and from some distant peaks I immediately recognized it to be the outlet of the Arkansaw, which we had left nearly one month since. This was a great mortification; but at the same time I consoled myself with the knowledge I had acquired of the sources of La Platte and Arkansaw rivers, with the river to the northwest, supposed to be the Pierre Jaun [Roche Jaune, Yellowstone[III-27]], which scarcely any person but a madman would ever purposely attempt to trace further than the entrance of those mountains which had hitherto secured their sources from the scrutinizing eye of civilized man.

I arrived at the foot of the mountain and bank of the river, in the afternoon, and at the same time discovered, on the other shore, Baroney with the horses; they had found quite an eligible pass [through Webster Park], and had killed one buffalo and some deer. We proceeded to our old camp [Cañon City], which we had left the 10th of December, and reoccupied it. Saw the traces of the doctor and his companion, but could not discover their retreat. This was my birth-day, and most fervently did I hope never to pass another so miserably. Fired a gun off as a signal for the doctor. Distance seven miles.

Jan. 6th. Dispatched the two soldiers back with some provision to meet the first lads and assist them on, and sent the interpreter hunting. About eight o'clock the doctor came in, having seen some of the men. He had been confined to the camp for one or two days, by a vertigo which proceeded from some berries he had eaten on the mountains. His companion brought down six deer, which they had at their camp; thus we again began to be out of danger of starving. In the afternoon some of the men arrived, and part were immediately returned with provisions, etc. Killed three deer.

Jan. 7th. Sent more men back to assist in the rear, and to carry the poor fellows provisions; at the same time kept Baroney and one man hunting. Killed three deer.

Jan. 8th. Some of the different parties arrived. Put one man to stocking my rifle; others were sent back to assist up the rear. Killed two deer.

Jan. 9th. The whole party were once more joined together, when we felt comparatively happy, notwithstanding the great mortification I experienced at having been so egregiously deceived as to the Red river. I now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as any idea of services at that time from my horses was entirely preposterous. After various plans formed and rejected, and the most mature deliberation, I determined to build a small place for defense and deposit;[III-28] leave part of the baggage, horses, my interpreter, and one man [Smith]; and with the balance, our packs of Indian presents, ammunition, tools, etc., on our backs, cross the mountains on foot, find the Red river, and then send back a party to conduct the horses and baggage by the most eligible route we could discover; by which time the horses would be so recovered as to be able to endure the fatigues of the march. In consequence of this determination, some were put to constructing the blockhouse, some to hunting, some to taking care of horses, etc. I myself made preparations to pursue a course of observations which would enable me to ascertain the latitude and longitude of this situation, which I conceived to be an important one. Killed three deer.

Jan. 10th. Killed five deer. Took equal altitudes and angular distances of two stars, etc., but do not now recollect which. Killed three deer.

Sunday, Jan. 11th. Ascertained the latitude and took the angular distances of some stars. Killed four deer.

Jan. 12th. Prepared the baggage for a march by separating it, etc. Observations continued.

Jan. 13th. Weighed out each man's pack. This day I obtained the angle between sun and moon, which I conceived the most correct way I possessed of ascertaining the longitude, as an immersion and emersion of Jupiter's satellites could not be obtained. Killed four deer.

Jan. 14th. We marched our party, consisting of 18 [read 12][III-29] soldiers, the doctor, and myself, each of us carrying 45 pounds and as much provision as he thought proper, which, with arms, etc., made on an average 70 pounds. Left Baroney and one man, Patrick Smith [in the blockhouse at Cañon City].

We crossed the first ridge, leaving the main branch of the river to the north of us, and struck on the south fork [Grape creek], on which we encamped, intending to pursue it through the mountains, as its course was more southerly. Distance 13 miles.[III-30]

Jan. 15th. Followed up this branch and passed the main ridge of what I term the Blue [now Wet] mountains. Halted early. The doctor, myself, and one hunter went out with our guns; each killed a deer, and brought them into camp. Distance 19 miles.[III-31]

Jan. 16th. Marched up the [Grape] creek all day. Encamped early, as it was snowing. I went out to hunt, but killed nothing. Deer on the hill; the [Wet] mountains lessening. Distance 18 miles.[III-32]

Jan. 17th. Marched about four miles, when the great White mountain[III-33] presented itself before us, in sight of which we had been for more than one month, and through which we supposed lay the long-sought Red river. We now left the [Grape] creek on the north of us, and bore away more east, to a low place in the [Wet] mountains. About sunset we came to the edge of a prairie which bounded the foot of the [Wet] mountains. As there was no wood or water where we were, and the woods from the skirts of the [Sangre de Cristo] mountains appeared to be at no great distance, I thought proper to march for it; in the middle of said prairie crossed the creek [recrossed Grape creek from N. E. to S. W.], which now bore east. Here we all got our feet wet. The night commenced extremely cold, when we halted at the woods at eight o'clock, for encampment. After getting fires made, we discovered that the feet of nine of our men were frozen; and, to add to this misfortune, both of those whom we called hunters were among the number. This night we had no provision. Reaumer's [Réaumur's] thermometer stood at 18½° below zero. Distance 28 miles.[III-34]

Sunday, Jan. 18th. We started two of the men least injured; the doctor and myself, who fortunately were untouched by the frost, also went out to hunt something to preserve existence. Near evening we wounded a buffalo with three balls, but had the mortification to see him run off notwithstanding. We concluded it was useless to go home to add to the general gloom, and went amongst some rocks, where we encamped and sat up all night; from the intense cold it was impossible to sleep. Hungry and without cover.

Jan. 19th. We again took the field, and after crawling about one mile in the snow, got to shoot eight times among a gang of buffalo; we could plainly perceive two or three to be badly wounded, but by accident they took the wind of us, and to our great mortification all were able to run off. By this time I had become extremely weak and faint, it being the fourth day since we had received sustenance, all of which we were marching hard, and the last night had scarcely closed our eyes to sleep. We were inclining our course to a point of woods, determined to remain absent and die by ourselves rather than return to our camp and behold the misery of our poor lads, when we discovered a gang of buffalo coming along at some distance. With great exertions I made out to run and place myself behind some cedars. By the greatest of good luck, the first shot stopped one, which we killed in three more shots; and by the dusk had cut each of us a heavy load, with which we determined immediately to proceed to the camp, in order to relieve the anxiety of our men and carry the poor fellows some food.

We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I threw my load down, it was with difficulty I prevented myself from falling; I was attacked with a giddiness of the head, which lasted for some minutes. On the countenances of the men was not a frown, nor a desponding eye; all seemed happy to hail their officer and companions, yet not a mouthful had they eaten for four days. On demanding what were their thoughts, the sergeant replied that on the morrow the most robust had determined to set out in search of us and not return unless they found us, or killed something to preserve the lives of their starving companions.

Jan. 20th. The doctor and all the men able to march; returned to the buffalo to bring in the balance of the meat. On examining the feet of those who were frozen we found it impossible for two of them [Sparks and Dougherty] to proceed, and two others only without loads, by the help of a stick. One of the former was my waiter, a promising young lad of twenty, whose feet were so badly frozen as to present every probability of losing them. The doctor and party returned toward evening, loaded with the buffalo meat.

Jan. 21st. This day we separated the four loads which we intended to leave, and took them some distance from camp, where we secured them. I went up to the foot of the mountain to see what prospect there was of being able to cross it, but had not more than fairly arrived at its base when I found the snow four or five feet deep; this obliged me to determine to proceed and côtoyer the mountain [keep alongside the base of the Sangre de Cristo range] to the south, where it appeared lower, until we found a place where we could cross.

Jan. 22d. I furnished the two poor lads who were to remain with ammunition, made use of every argument in my power to encourage them to have fortitude to resist their fate, and gave them assurance of my sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but not without tears.

We pursued our march, taking merely sufficient provisions for one meal, in order to leave as much as possible for the two poor fellows who remained. They were John Sparks and Thomas Dougherty. We went on eight miles and encamped on a little creek,[III-35] which came down from the mountains. At three o'clock went out to hunt, but killed nothing. Little snow.