Charlottes

[2436—APPLE CHARLOTTE]

Copiously butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Garnish its bottom with heart-shaped [croûtons] of bread-crumb, slightly overlapping one another; and garnish its sides with rectangles of bread of exactly the same height as the mould, and also slightly overlapping one another. The [croûtons] and the rectangles should be one-eighth inch thick, and ought to have been dipped in melted butter before taking their place in the mould.

Meanwhile, quarter twelve fine russet apples; peel, slice, and cook them in a sautépan with one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and half the rind of a lemon and a little cinnamon—both tied into a faggot.

When the apples are cooked, and reduced to a thick purée, remove the faggot of aromatics and add three tablespoonfuls of stewed apricots.

Fill up the mould with this preparation, and remember to shape the latter in a projecting dome above the mould; for it settles in cooking.

Bake in a good, moderate oven for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

[2437—CHARLOTTE DE POMMES, EMILE GIRET]

Prepare the Charlotte as directed above, but in a shallow mould.

When it is moulded on the dish, completely cover it with an even coat, half inch thick, of very firm “pastry cream” (No. [2401]), and take care not to spoil the shape of the Charlotte.

Sprinkle the cream copiously with icing sugar; then, with a red-hot iron, criss-cross the Charlotte regularly all round; pressing the iron upon the sugar-sprinkled cream.

Surround the base of the Charlotte with a row of beads made [721] ]by means of the piping-bag, from the same cream as that already used.

[2438—VARIOUS CHARLOTTES]

Charlottes may be made with pears, peaches, apricots, &c., after the same procedure as that directed under No. [2436]. The most important point to be remembered in their preparation is that the stewed fruit used should be very stiff; otherwise it so softens the shell of bread that the Charlotte collapses as soon as it is turned out.

It is no less important that the mould should be as full as possible of the preparation used; for, as already explained, the latter settles in the cooking process.

[2439—CRÈME A LA RÉGENCE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Saturate half a pound of “Biscuits à

la Cuiller” with Maraschino-Kirsch, and then dip them into a quart of boiled milk. Rub them through a silk sieve, and add eight eggs, ten egg-yolks, two-thirds pound of powdered sugar and a small pinch of table salt. Pour the whole into a shallow, Charlotte mould, and set to poach in a [bain-marie] for about thirty-five minutes.

Let the mould rest for a few minutes; turn out its contents on a dish and surround the base of the cream with a crown of stewed half-apricots, each garnished with a preserved cherry. Coat the whole with an apricot syrup, flavoured with Kirsch and Maraschino.

[2440—CRÈME MERINGUÉE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Prepare some “Crème à

la Régence” as above, and poach it in a buttered deep border-mould. Poach in a [bain-marie]; turn out on a dish, and garnish the middle of the border with Italian meringue (No.

[2383]), combined with a [salpicon] of preserved fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Decorate the border by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe and filled with plain, Italian meringue, without the fruit; and set to brown in a moderate oven.

Serve an orange-flavoured, English custard separately.

[2441—VILLAGE CUSTARD]

Saturate five ounces of dry biscuits with Kirsch and Anisette, and set them in a deep dish in layers, alternated with coatings of stewed, seasonable fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.

Cover the whole with the following preparation: one-half pound of powdered sugar mixed with eight eggs and the yolks of four, and [722] ]diluted with one and three-quarter pints of milk. Poach in a [bain-marie], in the oven.

[2442—CUSTARD PUDDING]

Custard pudding is a form of the English custard mentioned under No. [2397].

The difference between the two is that for the former whole eggs are used instead of the yolks alone, and that it is prepared according to the second method only. The average quantities for the preparation are:

Six eggs and six ounces of sugar per quart of milk. The custard is cooked in pie-dishes in a [bain-marie], which should be placed in the oven or in a steamer.

According as to whether the custard be required milky or thick, the number of eggs is either lessened or increased. In regard to the sugar, the guide should be the consumers’ tastes. If necessary, it may be suppressed altogether, and saccharine or glycerine may be used in its stead, as is customary for diabetic patients.

Custard is generally flavoured with vanilla, but any other flavour suited to sweets may be used with it.

Pancakes. (See preparations No. [2403].)

[2443—CONVENT PANCAKES]

Pour into a buttered and hot omelet-pan some preparation A, sprinkle thereon some William pears, cut into small dice; cover the latter with some more preparation A; toss the pancake in order to turn it; sprinkle it with powdered sugar, dish it on a napkin and serve it burning-hot.

[2444—GEORGETTE PANCAKES]

Proceed as for Convent pancakes, but substitute for pear-dice some very thin slices of pine-apple, macerated in Maraschino.

[2445—GIL-BLAS PANCAKES]

Make the following preparation: work three ounces of best butter in a bowl until it acquires the consistence of a pomade. Mix therewith three ounces of powdered sugar, three tablespoonfuls of liqueur brandy, a piece of butter the size of a filbert, and a few drops of lemon juice.

Make the pancakes with preparation C; spread the prepared butter upon them; fold each pancake twice, and dish them on a napkin.

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[2446—PANCAKES A LA NORMANDE]

Proceed as for Convent Pancakes, but for the pear dice substitute fine slices of apple, previously [sautéd] in butter.

[2447—PANCAKES A LA PARISIENNE]

These are made from preparation B, and are ungarnished.

[2448—PANCAKES A LA PAYSANNE]

Make these from preparation B (the [orgeat] syrup and the macaroons being suppressed), and flavour with orange-flower water.

[2449—PANCAKES A LA RUSSE]

Add to preparation C, a quarter of its volume of broken biscuits saturated with kümmel and liqueur brandy, and make the pancakes in the usual way.

[2450—SUZETTE PANCAKES]

Make these from preparation A, flavoured with curaçao

and tangerine juice. Coat them, like Gil-Blas pancakes, with softened butter, flavoured with curaçao

and tangerine juice.

Croquettes.

[2451—CHESTNUT CROQUETTES]

Peel the chestnuts after one of the ways directed (No. [2172]), and cook them in a thin syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Reserve one small, whole chestnut for each croquette. Rub the remainder through a sieve; dry the purée over a fierce fire, and thicken it with five egg-yolks and one and a half oz. of butter per lb. of purée. Let it cool.

Then divide the preparation up into portions the size of pigeons’ eggs, and roll these portions into balls, with a chestnut in the centre of each.

Treat them [à l’anglaise] with some very fine bread-crumbs; fry them in some very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a vanilla-flavoured apricot sauce, separately.

[2452—RICE CROQUETTES]

Make a preparation as directed under No. [2404]. Divide it up into two-oz. portions, moulded to the shape of such fruit as pears apples, apricots, etc.; treat these [à l’anglaise], like the chestnut croquettes, and fry them in the same way.

Serve an apricot sauce or a vanilla-flavoured Sabayon separately.

[724]
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[2453—VARIOUS CROQUETTES]

Croquettes may also be made from tapioca, semolina, vermicelli or fresh noodles, etc., in which case the procedure is that of the Rice Croquettes.

The preparation may be combined with currants and sultanas, and the croquettes are served with any suitable sauce.

Crusts.

[2454—CROÛTE AUX FRUITS]

Cut some slices one-fifth inch thick from a stale Savarin which has not been moistened with syrup, and allow two for each person. Set these slices on a tray; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and put them in the oven so as to dry and glaze them at the same time. Arrange them in a circle round a cushion of fried bread-crumbs, and between each lay a slice of pine-apple of exactly the same size as the slices.

Upon this crown of crusts, set some quartered apples and some stewed pears. The pears may be stewed in a pinkish syrup, which, by varying the colours, makes the croûte more sightly.

Decorate with preserved cherries, lozenges of angelica, quartered yellow and green [chinois], etc. Fix a small, turned and white or pink pear on the top of the cushion, by means of a [hatelet], and coat with an apricot sauce, flavoured with Kirsch.

[2455—CROÛTE A LA LYONNAISE]

Prepare the crusts as described above, and coat them with a smooth chestnut purée, flavoured with vanilla; then, cover them with an apricot purée, cooked to the [small-thread] stage; sprinkle with finely-splintered and slightly-browned almonds, and dish in a circle.

Garnish the middle of the circle with chestnuts cooked in syrup, and pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (washed and swelled in tepid water); the whole cohered with an apricot purée thinned with a few tablespoonsful of Malaga wine.

[2456—CROÛTE AU MADÈRE]

Dish the glazed crusts in a circle as already described. Pour into their midst a garnish consisting of equal parts of pipped, Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and moistened with a Madeira-flavoured, apricot syrup.

[2457—CROÛTE A LA MARÉCHALE]

Cut from a stale [mousseline] brioche, some triangles of the same thickness as the ordinary crusts. Coat them with [pralin] [725] ](No. [2352]), and then set them on a tray; sprinkle them with sugar glaze, and dry the [pralin] in a moderate oven.

Stick a fried-bread-crumb cushion, four inches high, on a dish, and surround it with a [salpicon] of pineapple, raisins, cherries, and sugared orange-rind, cohered with some stiff stewed apples, combined with a little apricot purée. Set the [pralin]-coated triangles upright alongside of the [salpicon], and surround them with a border of half-pears, stewed in syrup, half their quantity being white and the other pink.

On the top of the cushion, set a small pear, cooked in pink syrup, which fix with a small [hatelet], surround the border of half-pears with a thread of apricot purée, flavoured slightly with vanilla, and serve a sauceboat of the same purée separately.

[2458—CROÛTE A LA NORMANDE]

Prepare the crusts as indicated under No. [2454], coat them with very stiffly stewed apples, and dish them in a circle.

Garnish their midst with stewed apples, prepared as for a Charlotte, and upon the apples set a pyramid of quartered, white and pink apples, cooked in syrup. Cover with reduced apple syrup, thickened with a little very smooth stewed apples flavoured with Kirsch or old rum.

[2459—CROÛTE A LA PARISIENNE]

Coat the crusts with [pralin], as explained under No. [2457], and dish them in a circle. In their midst set some thin slices of pine-apple, the ends of which should rest upon the circle of crusts; in the middle, pour a garnish of various fruits, cohered with an apricot purée, flavoured with Madeira, and coat the circle of crusts with apricot syrup flavoured with Madeira.

[2460—CROÛTE AUX ABRICOTS AU MARASQUIN]

Cook some Savarin paste in buttered tartlet moulds. When these tartlets are cooked, hollow them out at the top, taking care to leave a somewhat thick border all round.

Coat them inside with pralin (No. [2352]), and dry them in a moderate oven. Then garnish the centre of the tartlets with frangipan cream, combined with filbert [pralin]. Upon this cream set a stoned apricot poached in Maraschino.

Surround the apricot with small, candied half-cherries, alternated with lozenges of angelica. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with Maraschino, separately.

[2461—CROÛTE VICTORIA]

Prepare a crust after No. [2456], and garnish the centre with [726] ]candied cherries and glazed chestnuts. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with rum, separately.

OMELETS.

Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, which are:—

Omelets with Liqueur.

[2462—Example: OMELET WITH RUM]

Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.

Jam Omelets.

[2463—Example: APRICOT OMELET]

Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.

[2464—XMAS OMELET]

Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with heated rum, and set it alight at the table.

Souffléd Omelets.

[2465—Example: SOUFFLÉD OMELET WITH VANILLA]

Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth, and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with the spoon.

Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a piping-bag.

[727]
]
Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.

Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a brilliant coat.

Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind, rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.

Surprise Omelets.

[2466—Example: NORWEGIAN OMELET]

Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick of [Génoise] upon a long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream with ordinary meringue (No. [2382]); smooth it with a knife, making it of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat reaching the ice inside.

[2467—SURPRISE OMELET MYLORD]

Proceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion of [Génoise] with coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears. Cover with [meringue] and cook in the same way.

[2468—CHINESE SURPRISE OMELET]

The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to the [large-crack] stage.

[2469—SURPRISE OMELET WITH CHERRIES]

Garnish the cushion of [Génoise] with red-currant ice, flavoured with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.

Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.

On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to which set a light at the table.

[728]
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[2470—SURPRISE OMELET MILADY: also called MILADY PEACH]

This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.

The whole is then covered with [Italian meringue], flavoured with Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches which project from the glaze remain bare.

Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.

[2471—SURPRISE OMELET “A LA NAPOLITAINE” otherwise “BOMBE VESUVE”]

Garnish the cushion of [Génoise] with coats of vanilla and strawberry ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the whole with [Italian meringue] prepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set a [barquette] of a size in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with ordinary [meringue] and baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate with [Italian meringue], covering the [barquette] in so doing, and quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the omelet with Jubilee cherries (No. [2566]), which set alight at the last moment.

[2472—SURPRISE OMELET ELIZABETH]

Garnish the cushion of [Génoise] with vanilla ice and crystallised-violets.

Cover it with [meringue]; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets, and treat the omelet as in No. [2466].

When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.

[2473—SURPRISE OMELET “A L’ISLANDAISE”]

Make the cushion of [Génoise] round instead of oval; set it on a round dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like a truncated cone. Cover with [meringue]; set a small case on the top, made from [meringue], as explained under No. [2471], but round instead of oval; conceal all but its inside with [meringue], decorating the omelet in so doing, and set to brown quickly.

When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into the [meringue] case and set it alight.

[2474—SYLPHS’ OMELET]

Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.

[729]
]
In the centre of the savarin set a cushion of [Génoise] sufficiently thick to reach half-way up the former.

At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberry [mousse], made in an iced [madeleine-mould], the diameter of which should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover the [mousse] with a coat of [Italian meringue] with kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which the base rests upon the top of the savarin.

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the oven, and serve it instantly.

[2475—VARIOUS SURPRISE OMELETS]

With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely varied by changing the ice preparation inside.

The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.

Pannequets.

[2476—PANNEQUETS WITH JAM]

Prepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.

Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.

[2477—PANNEQUETS A LA CRÈME]

Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No. [2476].

[2478—PANNEQUETS MERINGUÉS]

Coat the pancakes with [Italian meringue], flavoured with kirsch and maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour quickly in the oven.

[2479—PUDDINGS]

English puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is, moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of which I shall first give the generic recipes, from [730] ]which all pudding entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classes are:—

Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”

Puddings with Cream.

[2480—ALMOND PUDDING]

Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No. [2505]), moistened with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.

Set to poach in the [bain-marie]. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured with [orgeat].

[2481—ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDING]

Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in a [bain-marie] in the oven.

N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or basins in which they have cooked.

[2482—BISCUIT PUDDING]

Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Set to poach in a [bain-marie], in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.

[2483—CABINET PUDDING]

Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur; [731] ]arranging them in alternate layers with a [salpicon] of candied fruit and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little apricot jam.

Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. [2639], flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a [bain-marie].

Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English custard flavoured with vanilla.

[2484—FRUIT PUDDING]

This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the pudding.

Procedure: Butter a mould; set it in a [bain-marie], and pour a few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until the mould is full.

It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.

Continue the cooking in the [bain-marie]; let the preparation stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.

English Fruit Puddings.

[2485—APPLE PUDDING]

Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.

Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of one-third of an inch.

With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.

Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in [732] ]the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.

N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.

[2486—PLUM PUDDING]

Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb; half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger; four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.

Thoroughly mix the whole.

Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.

Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.

When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.

[2487—AMERICAN PUDDING]

Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange or lemon [zest]; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.

Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged mould or basin, and cook in the [bain-marie].

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

[2488—MARROW PUDDING]

Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a [bain-marie], and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb. of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped, Malaga raisins.

[733]
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Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged border-mould; and poach in the [bain-marie].

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

Bread Puddings.

[2489—ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING]

Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No. [2638], and poach in front of the oven.

[2490—FRENCH BREAD PUDDING]

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with bread-crumbs; and poach in [bain-marie].

As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.

[2491—GERMAN BREAD PUDDING]

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in a [bain-marie] as in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.

[2492—SCOTCH BREAD PUDDING]

Proceed exactly as for No. [2490], but add five oz. of sliced seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.

Paste Puddings.

[2493—TAPIOCA]

Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.

Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in the [bain-marie] until the preparation [734] ]seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.

[2494—SAGO PUDDING]

Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.

[2495—SEMOLINA PUDDING]

Proceed as for No. [2493], but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.

[2496—VERMICELLI PUDDING]

Proceed as for No. [2493], but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.

[2497—FRESH-NOODLE PUDDING]

Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. [2493].

[2498—ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINA PUDDINGS, ETC.]

Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a [bain-marie].

N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.

[2499—BRAZILIAN PUDDING]

Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould, [clothed] with sugar cooked to the [caramel] stage.

Poach in a [bain-marie] and serve plain.

[2500—CHEVREUSE PUDDING]

This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.

[2501—RICE PUDDING]

Prepare the rice as directed under No. [2404], and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.

The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. [2493], [2494], etc.

[735]
]
[2502—ENGLISH RICE PUDDING]

The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.

[2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING]

Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No. [2404], and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.

Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.

N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.

Souffléd Puddings.

[2504—SAXON PUDDING]

Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.

Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “[Pâte à choux].”

Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in a [bain-marie].

As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

[2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉD[!-- TN: acute invisible --] PUDDING]

Make a preparation as for No. [2504], but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a [bain-marie].

As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with [orgeat].

[2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISE]

Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.

[736]
]
With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.

Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

This pudding is cooked in a [bain-marie] in one of the following ways:

(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of the [bain-marie], sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.

(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.

(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer of [Génoise] or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.

In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.

[2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDING]

Make the preparation for No. [2504], and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.

Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.

[2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAO[!-- TN: original reads "CURAÇOA" --], ANISETTE, AND BÉNÉDICTINE[!-- TN: acutes invisible --] PUDDINGS, ETC.]

For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. [2504], and only the flavour changes.

Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.

[2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDING]

Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No. [2504].

As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.

[737]
]
[2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDING]

Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.

Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Poach in buttered moulds in a [bain-marie].

As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

[2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDING]

Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.

Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.

Poach in a [bain-marie] for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.

As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.

[2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA RÉGENCE]

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in a [bain-marie], in a mould [clothed] with sugar cooked to the [caramel] stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.

[2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA REINE]

Take some vanilla-flavoured, souffléd-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in a [bain-marie].

As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with [pralin].

[2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA ROYALE]

Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with a souffléd-pudding preparation, and poach in a [bain-marie].

Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.

[738]
]
[2515—SOUFFLÉD[!-- TN: acute invisible --] PUDDING SANS-SOUCI]

Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with a souffléd-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.

Poach in a [bain-marie].

[2516—SOUFFLÉD[!-- TN: acute invisible --] PUDDING A LA VESUVIENNE]

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a [bain-marie] in a mould with a central tube.

When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.

[2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDING]

Proceed as for No. [2361]: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.

Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.

Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.

When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.

[2518—RISSOLES]

The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruit [salpicon] or with stewed fruit, with plain or [pralined] creams, etc.

The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.

The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.

Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”

[739]
]
[2519—SOUFFLÉS]

Although [soufflés]

are generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or a [macédoine] of fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies to [soufflés] with a fruit base.

I have already given the formulæ for soufflés (No. [2405]); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular [soufflé].

[2520—FRUIT SOUFFLÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] IN A CROUSTADE]

Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, [croustade]-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.

Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured [soufflé] preparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.

On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.

[2521—ALMOND SOUFFLÉ]

Make a preparation of [soufflé] with cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.

[2522—SOUFFLÉ WITH FRESH ALMONDS]

Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.

[2523—SOUFFLÉ WITH FILBERT]

Make the [soufflé] preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert [pralin] per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.

Dish and cook the [soufflé] in the usual way.

[2524—SOUFFLÉ A LA CAMARGO]

Make a [soufflé]

preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.

[2525—PAULETTE SOUFFLÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Take vanilla-flavoured, [soufflé] preparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.

[2526—CHERRY SOUFFLÉ]

Prepare a [soufflé] with Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.

[740]
]
[2527—STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉ]

This is a [soufflé] with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.

[2528—POMEGRANATE SOUFFLÉ “A L’ORIENTALE”]

Make a [soufflé] preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the [soufflé] from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.

[2529—JAVA SOUFFLÉ]

Make the [soufflé] preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.

[2530—LÉRINA[!-- TN: acute invisible --] SOUFFLÉ]

Take some ordinary [soufflé] preparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.

[2531—SOUFFLÉ WITH LIQUEUR]

This [soufflé] may be made, either from the [soufflé] with cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.

The [soufflés] made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.

Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.

[2532—LUCULLUS SOUFFLÉ]

Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent the [soufflé] from drying during the cooking process.

Make a [soufflé] preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.

[2533—HILDA SOUFFLÉ]

This is a lemon [soufflé], accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.

[2534—SOUFFLÉ “A LA D’ORLÉANS”]

Take some cream [soufflé]-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.

[741]
]
[2535—SOUFFLÉ PALMYRE]

Take some vanilla-flavoured [soufflé] preparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.

[2536—SOUFFLÉ PRALINE]

Take some vanilla-flavoured [soufflé] preparation; add to it two ounces of almond [pralin] which should have previously infused in milk. When the [soufflé] is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.

[2537—ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLÉ]

Take some cream [soufflé]-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.

When the [soufflé] is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.

It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.

[2538—SOUFFLÉ A LA ROYALE]

Take some vanilla-flavoured, [soufflé]-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.

[2539—VANILLA SOUFFLÉ]

Take some cream [soufflé]-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.

[2540—VIOLET SOUFFLÉ]

Take some vanilla-flavoured [soufflé]

preparation, combined with crushed crystallised violets. When the [soufflé] is dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.

[2541—SUBRICS]

Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.

Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.

Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.

Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle. [742]
]
Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.

Timbales.

[2542—TIMBALE A LA D’AREMBERG]

Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.

Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty minutes.

On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.

[2543—BOURDALOUE TIMBALE]

Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.

With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.

When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

[2544—MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE]

Take a stale [Génoise] cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.

Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice with [Italian meringue], and, upon the latter, distribute a [salpicon] of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.

Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.

Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.

[2545—MONTMORENCY TIMBALE]

Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the [small-thread] [743] ]stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.

[2546—TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE]

Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.

[2547—TIMBALE A LA FAVART]

Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of chestnut remains.

Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.

Hot Fruit Entremets.

[2548—APRICOTS (Abricots)]

Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.

[2549—APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE]

Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.

Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze quickly.

N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should be covered with [gratin]; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of [gratin] upon the [744] ]cream; (3) set the fruit in a border of [Génoise], combined with apricots.

[2550—APRICOTS A LA COLBERT]

Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.

Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for entremets” (No. [2404]) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat them [à l’anglaise], with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

[2551—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ]

On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered, border-mould.

Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

[2552—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] (2nd Method)]

Set a crown of small [Génoise] roundels on a dish; on each roundel set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape of apricots.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

[2553—APRICOTS A LA CUSSY]

Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth fruit [salpicon], cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with [Italian meringue]; dish in the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

[2554—ABRICOTS GRATINÉS]

Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the [pralin].

[745]
]
[2555—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary [meringue]; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same [meringue]; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the [meringue].

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.

[2556—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS (Another Method)]

Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover with [meringue], smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with [meringue] by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.

[2557—APRICOTS A LA SULTANE]

Prepare a [Génoise], cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the [small-thread] stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary [meringue]; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.

Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.

As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

[2558—PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE]

See No. [2429].

[2559—PINE-APPLE A LA CONDÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. [2551]; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

[2560—PINE-APPLE A LA CRÉOLE[!-- TN: original reads "CREOLÉ" --]

Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.

[746]
]
Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.

Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.

Bananas (Bananes).

[2561—BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE]

Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. [2549].

[2562—BANANAS A LA CONDÉ]

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under No. [2551].

[2563—BANANAS MERINGUÉES[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. [2555] and [2556]); leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.

[2564—BANANAS A LA NORVEGIENNE[!-- TN: original reads "NORWEGIENNE" --]

Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an [Italian meringue] flavoured with rum.

Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.

[2565—SOUFFLÉD[!-- TN: acute invisible --] BANANAS]

Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve; add it to a cream [soufflé]-preparation; finish the latter with the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.

Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for six minutes.

[747]
]
Cherries (Cerises).

[2566—JUBILEE CHERRIES]

Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and set a light to each when serving.

[2567—CHERRIES A LA VALERIA]

Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, [Italian meringue], laid on by means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.

Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.

[2568—MERINGUED CHERRY FLAWN]

Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up with custard (No. [2397]). Cook in the usual way.

On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the former like an ordinary [meringue]-coated flawn.

N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be similarly prepared for [meringue]-coated flawns. Only such fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.

[2569—NECTARINES]

Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See peaches.

Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).

[2570—ORANGES A LA NORVEGIENNE[!-- TN: original reads "NORWEGIENNE" --]

Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit [748] ]under treatment, and cover the ice with [Italian meringue], by means of a piping-bag.

Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.

[2571—TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE]

Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.

Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened side undermost.

[2572—ORANGE OR TANGERINE SOUFFLÉ RIGHI]

Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.

Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured [soufflé]-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the [soufflé] may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes for oranges.

Peaches (Pêches).

[2573—PÊCHES A LA BOURDALOUE]

Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. [2549].

[2574—PÊCHES A LA CONDÉ]

Nos. [2551] and [2552] maybe applied in every respect to peaches.

[2575—PÊCHES A LA CUSSY]

Proceed exactly as for No. [2553].

[2576—PÊCHES FLAMBÉES]

These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—

(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight when serving.

(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the last moment.

[749]
]
[2577—PÊCHES GRATINÉES]

Proceed exactly as for No. [2554].

[2578—PÊCHES MERINGUÉES]

Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it with frangipan cream prepared with [pralin], and upon this cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with [meringue] and finish as explained under No. [2555].

[2579—PÊCHES MAINTENON]

Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan cream, combined with a [salpicon] of candied fruit and chopped, grilled almonds.

Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and cover the latter with [Italian meringue]. Decorate by means of the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.

Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

[2580—PÊCHES A LA VANILLE]

Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.

Pears (Poires).

[2581—POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE]

If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large, quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow No. [2549].

The remarks appended to No. [2549] apply equally to pears and to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.

[2582—POIRES A LA CONDÉ]

Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed under No. [2551].

[2583—POIRES A L’IMPÉRATRICE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan cream.

Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and set the [gratin] to form.

[750]
]
[2584—POIRES A LA PARISIENNE]

Bake a [Génoise] base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold, saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border them with a thread of ordinary [meringue], squeezed from a piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine rosette of [meringue] on top of the dome, and bake this [meringue] in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of half-sugared cherries.

[2585—POIRES A LA SULTANE]

Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

For the rest of the operation follow No. [2557].

[2586—POIRES A LA RÉGENCE]

Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan cream and a fine [salpicon] of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them [à l’anglaise] with very fine bread-crumbs.

Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

[2587—TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES]

Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.

Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate

with alternate bands of sugar grains and chopped, very green pistachios.

Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way. Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre

,” “Doyenne

” or other creamy pears; peel them; cut them into somewhat thick slices, and cook them in butter after the manner of Pommes à Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked, mix with them a quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour with vanilla liqueur.

[751]
]
Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it on a warm dish.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples (Pommes).

[2588—APPLE FRITTERS]

Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.

A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.

[2589—APPLES WITH BUTTER]

Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche [croûtons], glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.

Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot purée.

[2590—POMMES A LA BONNE-FEMME]

Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all round.

Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in the oven.

Serve these apples as they stand.

[2591—POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE]

Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the operation as directed under No. [2549].

[2592—POMMES EN CHARLOTTE]

See No. [2436].

[752]
]
[2593—POMMES A LA CHÂTELAINE]

Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. [2590]. Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a [salpicon] of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin, frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the [gratin] to form in a fierce oven.

[2594—POMMES A LA CHEVREUSE]

On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a [salpicon] of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover with a thin coat of semolina.

Cover the whole with ordinary [meringue], shaped like a dome; sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.

[2595—POMMES A LA CONDÉ]

Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as explained under No. [2551].

[2596—POMMES GRATINÉES]

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the [pralin] may dry and colour slightly.

[2597—POMMES MERINGUÉES]

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover with ordinary [meringue], and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same [meringue]; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.

[2598—POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE]

Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within [753] ]two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.

Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm; drain them well, and set them on a dish.

Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-[soufflé] preparation.

Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.

[2599—POMMES A LA PARISIENNE]

Proceed exactly as for No. [2584].

[2600—POMMES A LA PORTUGAISE]

Make cases of the apples as under No. [2598], and poach them in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.

Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured

, lukewarm syrup).

Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly, combined with a fine [julienne] of well-parboiled orange-[zest].

[2601—RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN]

Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel of the same paste; [gild]; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

[2602—POMMES IRÈNE]

Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.

Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the former.

Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured [Italian meringue]; set the latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.

[2603—FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON]

Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush [754] ]delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.

[2604—FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE]

Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.

Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb. of cooked rice.

Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.

Various Hot Entremets.

[2605—MINCE PIES]

Constituents.—One lb. of chopped suet; one and one-third lbs. of cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice; one lb. of pipped raisins; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of sultanas; one lb. of candied rinds; half lb. of peeled and chopped raw apples; the chopped [zest] and the juice of an orange; two-thirds oz. of allspice; one-sixth pint of brandy; and the same measure of Madeira and rum.

Thoroughly mix the whole; pour it into an earthenware jar; cover the latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.

Preparation.—Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with ordinary short paste; garnish them with the above preparation; cover with a thin layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre; seal down this layer, [gild], and bake in a hot oven.

[2606—CÉLESTINE[!-- TN: acute invisible --] OMELET]

Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with cream, stewed fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and stuff it with a different garnish from the one already used; enclose the first omelet in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual way. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a red-hot iron.

[2607—EGGS A LA RELIGIEUSE]

Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and have it of a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to contain. Coat it inside with a layer of [pralin], and dry the latter well in a mild oven.

Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling milk, sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep them somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust. [755] ]Between each egg place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb. Thicken the poaching-milk with five eggs and six egg-yolks per quart; pass it through a strainer: pour the preparation over the eggs, and put the flawn in a mild oven, that the cream may be poached and slightly coloured.

[2608—PAIN PERDU OR GILDED CRUST]

Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf and dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the slices; dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place them in a frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter. Brown them on both sides; drain them; sprinkle them with vanilla sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

[2609—FRUIT SUPRÊME A LA GABRIELLE]

Prepare (1) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte, thickened with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented border mould.

(2) A [macédoine] of fruit, the quantity of which should be in proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of quartered pears, cooked in syrup; pine-apple, cut into large lozenges; half-sugared cherries; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes by means of the fancy-cutter; and currants and sultanas, swelled in syrup. Set all these fruits in a sautépan.

To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook the mixture to the [small-ball] stage. This done, reduce it by adding one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk; pour this over the fruit, and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the border of apples, poached in a [bain-marie], upon a dish, and surround it with a border of candied cherries. Complete the [macédoine] away from the fire with a little very best butter; pour it into the border, and sprinkle on it some peeled and finely-splintered almonds.

[2610—SCHALETH A LA JUIVE]

Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for “Pommes Anna,” with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up with the following preparation:—For a utensil large enough to hold one and a half quarts:—one and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed russet apples; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal quantities; the finely chopped half-[zests] of an orange and a lemon; a mite of grated nutmeg; four oz. powdered sugar; four whole eggs and the yolks of six; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine. Mix the whole well, in advance.

Cover with a layer of noodle paste; seal the latter well down [756] ]round the edges; [gild], and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam. Bake it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it rest ten minutes before turning it out.

[2611—ENGLISH TARTS]

These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever be the fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature. Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left whole.

Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim; sprinkle them with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case of fruit with firm pulps like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of water.

This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dispensed with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish, which should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an inch wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which seal down well to the strip of paste, already in position and slightly moistened for the purpose. With a brush moisten the layer of paste constituting the cover of the tart; sprinkle it with sugar, and set the tart to bake in a moderate oven.

All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be used with them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are green.

Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a custard pudding (No. [2406]).