A guide to modern cookery

by A. Escoffier

Cold Sweets

[2612—SAUCES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF COLD SWEETS]

Cold sweets allow of the following sauces:—

(1) English Custard ([2397]), flavoured according to fancy.

(2) Syrups of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of red-currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be intensified by the addition of a liqueur in keeping with the fruit forming the base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably suited to this purpose.

(3) Purées of fresh fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used plain or mixed with a little whipped cream.

(4) Chantilly Cream, flavoured as fancy may suggest.

Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce:—

[757]
][2613—CHERRY SAUCE]

Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly. Pour it into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of freshly-prepared cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little powdered ginger, and a few drops of carmine; the latter with the view of giving the preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive colour. Finally add a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries, softened in a tepid, Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Bavarois.

These are of two kinds:—

(1) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.

[2614—CREAM BAVAROIS]

Preparation: Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-yolks in a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in which a stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds of an oz. of gelatine dipped in cold water.

Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the strainer into an enamelled basin; let it cool, stirring it from time to time; and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half pints of whipped cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds oz. of vanilla sugar.

[2615—BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS]

Constituents.—One pint of fruit purée, diluted with one pint of syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with fruit of the same nature as that used for the purée; and this fruit may be added raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., and poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears, peaches, apricots, etc.

[2616—THE MOULDING AND DISHING OF BAVAROIS]

Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with a central tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When they are greased they are incrusted in broken ice after the preparation has been covered with a round sheet of white paper.

When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid water, wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be covered with a folded napkin.

Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin coat of sugar cooked to the [caramel] stage, which besides making [758] ]the Bavarois sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very advisable method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver timbale or dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not having to be turned out, the preparation does not need to be so cohesive, and is therefore much more delicate.

When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is sometimes accompanied by stewed fruit or a [Macédoine] of fresh fruit; though, in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold puddings, which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.

Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated, just before being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.

[2617—BAVAROIS CLERMONT]

Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined with three oz. of candied chestnut purée and three oz. of candied chestnuts, broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.

Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine candied chestnuts.

[2618—BAVAROIS DIPLOMATE]

[Clothe] a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois preparations, spread in alternate and regular layers.

[2619—BAVAROIS MY QUEEN]

[Clothe] a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared raw cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the mould with a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry purée and combined with large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When the entremet is turned out surround it with a border of large strawberries, also macerated in sugar and Kirsch.

[2620—BAVAROIS A LA RELIGIEUSE]

[Clothe] a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup containing a somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the inside of the mould with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, made from plain instead of whipped cream.

[2621—BAVAROIS RUBANNÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the mould.

It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every kind of Bavarois preparation may be used.

[759]
][2622—VARIOUS CREAM BAVAROIS]

Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut, orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. [2614]; the flavour alone undergoing any change.

[2623—VARIOUS FRUIT BAVAROIS]

After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-apple, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.

[2624—BLANC-MANGE]

Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a pity; seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best entremets that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is prepared in England, is quite different from that generally served; but it is nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet, and that is why I have given its recipe below.

As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-mange ought always to be beautifully white; but, for a long time since, the compound word has lost its original meaning. The adjective and noun composing it have fused one with the other to form a single generic title, which may now be applied with equal propriety to both coloured and white preparations; and the verbal error is so old, dating as it does from pre-Carême times, that it would be futile to try and correct it.

[2625—FRENCH BLANC-MANGE]

Preparation.—Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five bitter almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be quite white.

Pound them as finely as possible; adding to them the while (in spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a strong towel, twisting the latter tightly; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar in the resulting milk (about one and half pints); add a bare oz. of gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup; strain the whole through muslin, and flavour according to taste.

Moulding:—Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their contents may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already directed.

N.B.—For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has substituted for the procedure given above, which is antiquated, another which consists in pounding the almonds with only a few table-spoonfuls of water and some very thin cream.

[760]
][2626—BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT AND LIQUEURS]

All fruits, reduced to purées, may serve in the preparation of blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should be as follows:—the purée of the selected fruit and the preparation given above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be mixed in equal quantities.

These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they are prepared, i.e.: strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc. They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation. The best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and Rum.

Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although the flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds as do the other products.

[2627—BLANC-MANGES “RUBANNÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --]”]

Prepare these as directed under No. [2621], spreading the differently flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate even and regular layers.

N.B.—Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver timbales, in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means, to the great improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be reduced to a minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting of the blanc-mange and no more. And the thing is quite possible inasmuch as there is no question of turning out the entremet.

In his book “The Parisian Cook,” Carême recommends the addition to the Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very fresh, good cream; and the advice, coming as it does from such an authoritative source, is worth following.

[2628—ENGLISH BLANC-MANGE]

Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it over a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold milk; stirring briskly the while.

Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an open fire for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.

On taking it off the fire, flavour it according to taste; and pour it, very hot, into moulds previously moistened with syrup, that the mouldings may turn out glossy and smooth.

Let the contents of the moulds set; turn them out, and serve them very cold either plain or with an accompaniment of stewed fruit.

[761]
]Charlottes.

[2629—CHARLOTTE A L’ARLEQUINE]

Line the bottom of a Charlotte mould with a round piece of paper, and garnish the sides with upright pieces of [Génoise], glazed white, pink and pale-green; alternating the colours and pressing the uprights snugly one against the other. Meanwhile, take some strawberry, chocolate, pistachio and apricot Bavarois preparations, and let them set in flawn-rings, lying on pieces of oiled paper.

Cut the Bavarois preparations into large dice, and mix them with an ordinary, and somewhat liquid, cream Bavarois preparation. Pour the whole into the mould, and leave to cool. When about to serve, turn out the Charlotte; remove the piece of paper and replace it by a thin [Génoise] top, glazed with “fondant” and decorated with candied fruit.

[2630—CHARLOTTE CARMEN]

Line the Charlotte with [gaufrettes], and garnish it with the following preparation:—eight oz. of stewed tomatoes; four oz. of stewed red-capsicums, a pinch of powdered ginger, three oz. of candied ginger cut into dice, the juice of three lemons, half a pint of hot syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and five dissolved gelatine leaves.

Mix up the whole, and, when the preparation begins to thicken, add to it one and three-quarter pints of whisked cream.

[2631—CHARLOTTE A LA CHANTILLY]

Prepare the Charlotte with [gaufrettes], stuck directly upon a round base of dry paste, either with apricot jam cooked to the [small-thread] stage or with sugar cooked to the [small-crack] stage. As a help, a Charlotte mould may be used for this operation; it may be laid on the dry-paste base and removed when the [gaufrettes] are all stuck.

Garnish with whisked, sugared and vanilla-flavoured cream built up in pyramid-form, and decorate its surface, by means of a spoon, with the same cream, slightly tinted with pink.

[2632—BAQUET ET PANIER A LA CHANTILLY]

A “Baquet” (bucket) is made with lady’s-finger biscuits, well trimmed and stuck upon a base of dry paste with sugar cooked to the [large-crack] stage.

In the middle, and on either side of the baquet, set a biscuit, somewhat higher than the rest, with a hole in its top end, cut by means of a small round cutter; and surround the baquet with small threads of chocolate-flavoured almond paste, in imitation of iron hoops.

[762]
]The “Panier” (basket) is made in the same way, but with biscuits all of the same size, and without the imitation iron-hoops. On the base and by means of sugar cooked to the [large-crack] stage, fix a handle of pulled sugar, decked with sugar flowers.

The baquet and the panier are garnished with the same cream as the Chantilly Charlotte, and are finished in the same way, with a decoration of pink-tinted cream.

[2633—CHARLOTTE MONTREUIL]

Line the bottom and sides of the mould with lady’s-finger biscuits. Garnish with a Bavarois

preparation consisting of one pint of peach purée per quart of English custard, and the usual quantity of whisked cream.

Add some very ripe, sliced and sugared peaches, on putting the preparation into the mould.

[2634—OPERA CHARLOTTE]

Line a mould with Huntley and Palmer’s sugar wafers and garnish it with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with one-quarter of its bulk of a smooth purée of candied chestnuts, and a [salpicon] of candied fruit, macerated in Maraschino.

[2635—CHARLOTTE PLOMBIÈRE]

Line the Charlotte with lady’s-finger biscuits or with [gaufrettes]. When about to serve, garnish it with a Plombière ice (No. [2795]) and turn it out upon a napkin.

[2636—CHARLOTTE RENAISSANCE]

Line the bottom of the mould with a round piece of white paper, and the sides with rectangles of [Génoise], glazed white and pink. Set the glazed sides of the rectangles against the mould.

Fill the mould, thus lined, with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with raw peeled and sliced apricots and peaches, pine-apple cut into dice, and wild strawberries, all these fruits having been previously macerated in Kirsch. Let the preparation set in the cool or on ice.

When the Charlotte is turned out, remove the round piece of paper, and in its place lay a slice of pine-apple, cut from the thickest part of the fruit and decorated with candied fruit.

[2637—CHARLOTTE RUSSE]

Make a rosette on the bottom of the mould with some heart-shaped lady’s-finger biscuits, and line the sides with the same biscuits trimmed, set upright and close together.

This Charlotte may be garnished with a vanilla-, [pralin]-, coffee-, orange- or chocolate-flavoured cream Bavarois preparation; or a [763] ]Bavarois preparation made from a purée of such fruits as apricots, pine-apple, bananas, peaches, strawberries, etc.

The flavour or product which determines the character of the Charlotte should always be referred to on the menu, thus: Charlotte Russe à l’Orange or Charlotte Russe aux Fraises, etc.

[2638—CREAMS]

Cold creams, served as entremets, belong to two very distinct classes:

(1) Cooked Creams, which are, in short, but a variety of custard.

(2) The Creams derived from natural, fresh cream, whipped and sugared, the generic type of which is Chantilly cream.

Cooked Creams are prepared either in special little pots, in small silver or porcelain bowls, or in moulds. Those prepared in moulds are turned out when they are quite cold, and are called “Crèmes renversées” to distinguish them from the first two kinds which are always served in the utensil in which they have cooked.

For all that, the term “Crème renversée” has grown somewhat obsolete, and the modern expression for this kind of custards is “Crème moulée.”

Crème au Caramel represents a perfect type of this class.

The custards served in their cooking-receptacles are more delicate than the others, because their preparation does not demand such a large quantity of eggs; but they are only served in the home, like English custard. For a stylish luncheon or dinner, moulded custards (Fr. crèmes moulées) are best.

[2639—CRÈME A LA VANILLE, MOULÉE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Boil one quart of milk containing one-half lb. of sugar; add a stick of vanilla, and let the latter infuse for twenty minutes. Pour this milk, little by little, over three eggs and eight yolks, previously whisked in a basin, and whisk briskly the while. Pass the whole through a fine sieve; let it rest for a moment or two; then completely remove all the froth lying on its surface, and pour the preparation into buttered moulds or into vases specially made for this purpose. Set to poach in a [bain-marie], in a moderate oven, keeping lids on the utensils.

Not for one moment must the water in the [bain-marie] boil while the poaching is in progress; for the air contained by the preparation would then become over-heated, and the result would be an infinity of small holes throughout the depth of the custard, which would greatly mar its appearance.

As a matter of fact, the custard should poach, that is to say, [764] ]coagulate, as the result of the surrounding water being kept at a constant temperature of 185° F. As soon as it is poached, let the custard cool.

When it is poached in the utensils in which it is served, one egg and eight yolks per quart of milk will be found sufficient. The utensils should be carefully wiped and dished on a napkin.

If the custard is to be turned out, carefully overturn the mould upon a dish, and pull it off a few minutes later. Moulded and potted custards admit of all the flavourings proper to entremets; but those which suit them best are vanilla, almond milk, almond and filbert [pralin], coffee, chocolate, etc. Unless used in the form of very concentrated essences, fruit flavours are less suited to them.

[2640—CRÈME AU CARAMEL]

[Clothe] the bottom and sides of a mould with sugar cooked to the golden-[caramel] stage, and fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured, moulded-custard preparation. Poach and turn it out as directed.

[2641—CRÈME A LA VIENNOISE, MOULÉE]

This is a custard with caramel, but instead of [clothing] the mould with the latter, it is dissolved in the hot milk. The custard should be treated exactly like the vanilla-flavoured kind.

[2642—CRÈME A LA FLORENTINE]

Make a preparation of [pralin]-flavoured custard with caramel and poach it.

When it is quite cold, turn it out on a dish; decorate it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with chopped pistachios.

[2643—CRÈME A L’OPÉRA]

Poach, in an ornamented border-mould, a preparation of [pralin]-flavoured custard. When it is turned out, garnish its midst with a dome of Chantilly cream, aromatised with [pralined] violets. Upon the border set a crown of fine strawberries, macerated in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and cover with a veil of sugar cooked to the [large-crack] stage.

Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.

[2644—CRÈME A LA CHANTILLY]

Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.

[765]
]Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.

[2645—CRÈME AUX FRUITS A LA CHANTILLY]

The constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter.

The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the nature of the fruit.

It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

[2646—CRÈME CAPRICE]

Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk of roughly broken-up [meringues]. Put the preparation in an iced [Madeleine-mould], lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.

Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.

[2647—BRISE DU PRINTEMPS]

Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

[2648—NUÉES ROSES]

Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

[2649—FLAMRI]

Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in the [bain-marie], and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc., reasonably sugared.

[2650—JELLIES]

From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds: (1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their base is the same in all cases, i.e., gelatine dissolved in a certain quantity of water.

[766]
]The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.

[2651—CALF’S-FOOT JELLY]

Take some fine soaked and [blanched] calves’ feet, and set them to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by means of ice.

Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.

For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.

[2652—JELLY WITH A GELATINE BASE]

Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and the [zest] and juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.

Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.

At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding any flavour.

The Flavouring.—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the liquid flavouring.

Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the [767] ]remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.

A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.

In the case of fruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance with the kind of fruit used.

For red-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the fruit be more or less juicy.

This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter. The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in spite of the added juice.

When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results from the fermentation.

Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set to ferment.

When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.

Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the jelly.

This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour may be intensified.

[2653—THE GARNISH AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF JELLIES]

As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.

A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”

[768]
][2654—GELÉES[!-- TN: acute invisible --] RUBANNÉES]

These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.

They are generally served without garnish.

[2655—JELLIES A LA RUSSE]

These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.

[2656—JELLIES A LA MOSCOVITE]

These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.

The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.

N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit or [macédoines] of fruit which are covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.

[2657—PAINS DE FRUITS]

These “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.

[Clothe] the mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.

The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.

[2658—COLD PUDDINGS]

Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.

[769]
]The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this chapter.

Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the pudding paste.

[2659—PUDDING A LA BOHÉMIENNE]

Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with a [salpicon] of candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No. [2639]), containing a good proportion of whole eggs, and poach in a [bain-marie].

Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and coat the pudding with a sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

[2660—PUDDING DIPLOMATE]

Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,” saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out just before serving.

[2661—PUDDING DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS]

Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots, etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch, Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.

When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.

[2662—PUDDING MALAKOFF]

Prepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears, prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay [770] ]a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.

Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured cold sabayon.

[2663—PUDDING A LA NESSELRODE]

To an English custard, prepared after No. [2397], add eight oz. of a smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice; these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.

Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.

Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper; pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin; remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut purée.

N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.

[2664—PUDDING A LA RICHELIEU]

Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.

Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.

Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on a napkin.

[771]
][2665—PUDDING OR “CRÈME[!-- TN: original reads "CRÊME" --] REINE DES FÉES”]

Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italian meringue (No. [2383]), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice, macerated in Kirsch and carefully drained. Set the meringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.

Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces of meringue; poach the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.

Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao

. In these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be twice as much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of gelatine should be reduced by half.

Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled iced-[Madeleine mould], distributing the meringues between each layer.

Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.

COLD FRUIT ENTREMETS.

Apricots (Abricots).

[2666—ABRICOTS A LA PARISIENNE]

Poach the halved apricots in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Cool them and drain them; and reconstruct the apricots by joining the halves together with a piece of vanilla ice-cream, the size of a walnut, in the centre.

Set these apricots upon some large overturned macaroons; cover with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, shaped like a cone and sprinkle with fine filbert [pralin].

[2667—ABRICOTS A LA ROYALE]

Take some fairly deep tartlet moulds, and set in them some fine, cold, half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Fill up the tartlet moulds with very limpid, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

Prepare a shallow, [Génoise] border, glazed with red-currant jelly, cooked to the [small-thread] stage, and sprinkle with chopped pistachios.

[772]
]Turn out the tartlets of apricot jelly and place them in a crown over the border. Garnish the centre of the latter with chopped anisette-flavoured pink jelly.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

[2668—ANANAS GEORGETTE]

Take a fine whole pine-apple, and hollow it out to within half an inch of its outside all round and at the bottom. Put aside the slice cut from the top, on which is the bunch of leaves.

Fill the inside with a Bavarois preparation made from pine-apple purée, combined with the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, cut into thin slices, and leave to set. Dish on a napkin, and return the top slice to the pine-apple, that it may seem untouched.

[2669—ANANAS A LA VIRGINIE]

Proceed exactly as above, but replace the pine-apple Bavarois preparation by a strawberry kind, combined, as before, with the pulp withdrawn from the inside of the pine-apple, cut into dice.

[2670—ANANAS A LA NINON]

Line the sides of a [soufflé] timbale with vanilla ice-cream, laying it in an oblique strip from the edge of the utensil to the centre of the bottom of the timbale. Upon this layer of ice-cream set two or three rows of thin pine-apple slices, in such a way as to make the slices of the last row project beyond the edge of the timbale.

In the centre of the mould build a pyramid of wild strawberries; cover this with a raspberry purée, and sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios.

[2670a—PINE-APPLE A LA ROYALE]

Take a fresh pine-apple and cut a slice from its top, containing the bunch of leaves. Withdraw the pulp from the inside, and leave a thickness of about half an inch all round and on the bottom.

Fill it with a [macédoine] of fresh fruit macerated in Kirsch; set it in the middle of a crystal bowl; and surround the base with a crown of fine Montreuil peaches, poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, alternated by large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.

Return the bunch of leaves to its place upon the pine-apple.

[773]
]Cherries (Cerises).

[2671—CERISES A LA DUBARRY]

Line a flawn-ring with good, short paste; set it on a small round baking-sheet; prick the paste on the bottom to prevent its blistering while baking, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and garnish with fine, stoned cherries, pressed snugly one against the other.

Bake the flawn in the usual way and let it cool.

When it is quite cold cover the cherries with Chantilly cream, combined either with ordinary [pralin] or with crushed macaroons.

Smooth the surface of the cream, as also the sides of the flawn; cover it with macaroon powder, and then decorate by means of the piping-bag with white and pink Chantilly cream.

[2672—CERISES AU CLARET]

Select some fine cherries; cut off the ends of their stalks, and set them in a silver timbale. Pour sufficient sweetened Bordeaux wine (flavoured with a mite of cinnamon) over them, to just cover them. Close the timbale, and keep it on the side of the fire for ten minutes, that the cherries may poach.

Let them cool in the syrup; drain the latter away; reduce it by a third, and add, in order to thicken it slightly, one tablespoonful of red-currant jelly per six tablespoonfuls of reduced syrup.

Serve the cherries quite cold, and some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

Strawberries (Fraises).

[2673—FRAISES A LA CRÉOLE]

Set some fine strawberries and an equal amount of pine-apple, cut into dice, to macerate in powdered sugar and Kirsch.

Arrange a close crown of pine-apple slices, also macerated in Kirsch, upon a tazza. In the middle of the crown build a pyramid of the strawberries and pine-apple, and sprinkle with a Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

[2674—FRAISES FEMINA]

Select some fine strawberries; sprinkle them with sugar and Grand-Marnier Curaçao, and leave them to macerate on ice for an hour.

When about to serve, spread on the bottom of a bowl or timbale a layer of orange-ice (which should be combined with the macerating liqueur) and set the strawberries thereon.

[774]
][2675—FRAISES MARGUERITE]

Set some wild strawberries to macerate in sugar and Kirsch. Drain them; cohere them with an equal quantity of pomegranate sherbet; set them in a silver timbale, already surrounded with ice; cover the strawberries with Maraschino-flavoured Chantilly cream, and decorate with the latter.

[2676—FRAISES MARQUISE]

Set in a timbale surrounded with ice some Chantilly cream, combined with half its bulk of a purée of wild strawberries. Completely cover this cream with fine, fair-sized selected strawberries (macerated with Kirsch), rolled at the last minute in semolina sugar.

[2677—FRAISES MELBA]

Garnish the bottom of a timbale with vanilla ice-cream. Upon this arrange a layer of choice strawberries, and cover the latter with a thick, slightly-sugared, fresh raspberry purée.

[2678—FRAISES NINA]

Prepare the strawberries as directed under No. [2675], and cohere them with pine-apple sherbet. Dish them as before in a timbale, and cover them with some Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a red-capsicum purée flavoured with ginger.

[2679—FRAISES ROMANOFF]

Macerate some fine strawberries with orange juice and Curaçao. Set them in a timbale surrounded with ice, and cover them with Chantilly cream, laid upon them by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a large, grooved pipe.

[2680—FRAISES WILHELMINE]

Macerate some fine, large strawberries with Kirsch, powdered sugar, and orange juice. Dish them in a timbale and serve a vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream separately.

[2681—FRAISES LÉRINA]

Take a small black melon of Carmes; open it by cutting out a bung-shaped piece containing the stalk, and remove all its seeds. Then cut out all the pulp, by means of a dessert-spoon, and sprinkle it with powdered sugar.

Macerate the required number of strawberries in Lérina liqueur.

Garnish the inside of the melon with these strawberries and the withdrawn pulp; close the melon by replacing the bung cut out at [775] ]the start, and keep in a refrigerator for two hours, surrounded by ice.

Dish on a napkin at the last moment.

[2682—FRAISES “RÊVE DE BÉBÉ[!-- TN: acutes invisible --]”]

Select a fair-sized, very ripe pine-apple, cut off a slice of it at the top and withdraw all its pulp without bursting the rind.

Prepare a square cushion of [Génoise], about two inches thick; slightly hollow it out towards its centre, that the emptied pine-apple may be set upright upon it; and stick the cushion upon a dry-paste base, of the same size and shape as the former. Glaze the [Génoise] cushion with pink fondant, decorate with “royale” glaze, and set a large strawberry at each corner.

Slice half of the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, and macerate it with Kirsch, Maraschino and sugar. Pound the remaining pulp and press it in order to extract its juice.

Set to macerate with this pine-apple juice a sufficient quantity of strawberries to three-parts fill the pine-apple.

When about to serve, fill the emptied pine-apple with successive and alternate layers of pine-apple with Kirsch and strawberries; and, between each layer, spread a coat of vanilla-flavoured, Chantilly cream.

Close the pine-apple with the slice cut off at the start, and set it upright in the hollow of the cushion. Serve the preparation very cold.

[2683—FRAISES A LA RITZ]

Set some well-sugared and cooled strawberries in a timbale, and cover them with the following preparation: rub half-pound of wild strawberries through a sieve; add a little Melba sauce to the purée, that it may acquire a pink tint; and then add the same quantity of very stiff vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Thoroughly cool these strawberries before serving them.

[2684—FRAISES CARDINAL]

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale; coat them with Melba sauce, or a purée of fresh raspberries, and sprinkle the latter with splintered fresh almonds.

[2685—FRAISES ZELMA KUNTZ]

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale. Cover them with a raspberry purée, combined with an equal quantity of Chantilly cream.

Decorate, by means of the piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle with a powdered [pralin] of filberts.

[776]
]Gooseberries (Groseilles vertes).

[2686—GOOSEBERRY FOOL]

Poach one pound of green gooseberries in some thin syrup. When they are cooked, thoroughly drain them; rub them through a sieve, and collect the purée in a flat saucepan.

Work this purée on ice, and add the necessary amount of icing sugar to it.

The amount of the icing sugar varies according to the acidity of the fruit and the sweetness of the poaching-syrup.

Combine with the purée an equal quantity of very stiffly whipped cream; set the preparation in the shape of a dome in a timbale: decorate its surface, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and serve very cold.

Tangerines (Mandarines).

[2687—MANDARINES ALMINA]

Cut a slice of the rind from the stem-end of the tangerines by means of a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. Then empty them, and fill the rinds with a preparation of Bavarois with violets, combined with crumbled lady’s-finger biscuits, sprinkled with Maraschino. Close the tangerines with the slice cut off at the start; let them set in a cool place, and, at the last moment, lay them on a dish covered with a folded napkin.

[2688—MANDARINES A LA CRÈME]

Empty the tangerines, and fill their peels with a somewhat thick tangerine Bavarois preparation, combined with a third of its bulk of fresh, raw cream.

Place them in ice until they have to be served; dish them as directed in the preceding recipe.

[2689—MANDARINES EN SURPRISE]

Proceed as for the oranges, but for the orange ice substitute tangerine jelly.

Oranges.

[2690—ORANGES AU BLANC-MANGE[!-- TN: original reads "-MANGER" --]

Cut the oranges and empty them as directed in the case of tangerines. Then fill them with French blanc-mange (No. [2625]), and let it set. Close the oranges with the slices cut off at the start, and dish them on a napkin.

[777]
][2691—ORANGES RUBANNÉES[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Garnish the empty orange-rinds with regular layers of variously coloured and flavoured blanc-manges, or with alternated fruit jellies. When about to serve, quarter the oranges.

N.B.—These quartered oranges are sometimes used for the garnishing of cold entremets.

[2692—ORANGES EN SURPRISE]

Cut a lateral slice from each orange, representing about one-fourth of their height, and empty them. Garnish the peels with orange ice; cover the latter with [Italian meringue]; set the garnished peels on broken ice, lying on a tray, and set them in a sufficiently hot oven, to quickly colour the meringue. On taking the oranges out of the oven, close each with the slices cut from them at the start, in which are stuck imitation leaves and stalks, made from pulled sugar. Dish them on a napkin.

[2693—ORANGES SOUFFLÉES[!-- TN: acute invisible --] EN SURPRISE]

Empty the oranges as above; garnish the rinds with an orange [soufflé] preparation, and cook the latter.

On taking the oranges out of the oven, cover the [soufflé] with the slices cut off at the start; dish the oranges on a napkin, and serve them instantly.

Peaches and Nectarines (Pêches et Nectarines).

As nectarines may be prepared after the same recipes as peaches, there is no need to give special recipes for the former.

[2694—PÊCHES AIGLON]

After having peeled the peaches, poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and leave them to cool therein. Drain them, dish them upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, spread in a false-bottomed silver timbale, the inner compartment of which contains broken ice. Sprinkle crystallised violets over the peaches; set the timbale on a block of ice, carved to represent an eagle, and cover the whole with a veil of spun sugar.

[2695—PÊCHES A L’AURORE]

Poach the peeled peaches in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and let them cool there. Drain them; dish them in a silver timbale, upon a layer of “iced [mousse] with strawberries,” and coat the whole with a Curaçao-flavoured

sabayon.

[2696—PÊCHES ALEXANDRA]

Poach the peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them completely cool. Dish them in a timbale surrounded by ice [778] ]containing on its bottom a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with a strawberry purée. Sprinkle the peaches with white and red rose-petals, and veil the whole with spun sugar.

[2697—PÊCHES CARDINAL]

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and, when they are quite cold, dish them in a timbale. Cover them with a very red, sweetened, raspberry purée, flavoured with Kirsch, and sprinkled with very white, splintered fresh almonds.

[2698—PÊCHES DAME-BLANCHE]

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are cold, set them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with thin slices of pine-apple macerated in Maraschino and Kirsch.

Between each peach, and in every crevice, put some balls of Chantilly cream, laid by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe.

[2699—PÊCHES MELBA]

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, and coat them with a raspberry purée.

[2700—PÊCHES PETIT-DUC]

Prepare the peaches as under No. [2698], but use small heaps of red-currant jelly instead of balls of cream.

[2701—PÊCHES A LA SULTANE]

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool.

Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of pistachio ice, and coat them with very cold, thickened syrup, flavoured with rose essence.

Veil the whole with spun sugar, and set the timbale upon a block of ice.

[2702—PÊCHES AU CHATEAU-LAFFITE]

Scald the peaches; peel them, and cut them in two.

Poach them in sufficient Château-Laffite wine to cover them, and sugar the wine to the extent of ten oz. of sugar per bottle.

Leave them to cool in the syrup, and dish them in a silver timbale.

Reduce the wine by three-quarters; thicken it with a little raspberry-flavoured, red-currant jelly.

When this syrup is quite cold, sprinkle the peaches with it.

[779]
][2703—PÊCHES A L’IMPÉRATRICE]

Cut the peaches in two; poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Then drain and dry them; garnish the cut side of each of the half-peaches with enough vanilla ice-cream to give them the appearance of whole fruit. Coat the peach-side of each with some stiff apricot sauce, and roll them in [pralined] splintered almonds.

Dish these peaches upon a cushion of [Génoise], saturated with Kirsch and Maraschino, set upon a dry-paste base, and glazed with raspberry glaze.

Veil the whole with spun sugar.

[2704—PÊCHES ROSE-CHÉRI]

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Dish them in a timbale; cover them with a purée of pine-apple with Clicquot, and serve very cold.

[2705—PÊCHES ROSE-POMPON]

Scald and peel some fine peaches; poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Stone them without opening or breaking them overmuch, and in the place of the stone, put some very firm vanilla ice-cream.

Set these reconstructed peaches in a silver timbale, upon a layer of raspberry ice; cover them with [pralined] Chantilly cream; and before serving put them for thirty minutes in the refrigerator.

At the last moment, veil the timbale with pink, spun sugar.

Pears (Poires).

[2706—POIRES ALMA]

Peel the pears and poach them in a syrup made from one quart of water, one-half pint of port wine, eight ounces of sugar, and the [blanched] and chopped [zest] of an orange. Cool: dish them in a timbale; sprinkle them with powdered [pralin], and serve a Chantilly cream at the same time.

[2707—POIRES CARDINAL]

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed as directed under No. [2697].

[2708—POIRES A LA CARIGNAN]

Evenly turn some very fine dessert pears, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; keeping them fairly firm. Drain them on a dish and let them cool. This done, trim them flat at their base, and empty them from underneath by means of a root spoon, after having outlined the circumference of the opening with an even round cutter.

[780]
]Fill them with a preparation of “Bombe au chocolat praliné” (see Bombe, [No.[!-- TN: period invisible --] 2826]).

Close them up with a little roundel of [Génoise], stamped out by means of the same cutter as that used above.

Set the pears on a tray; coat them speedily with apricot jam cooked to the [small-thread] stage; glaze them with chocolate fondant, and keep them for three hours in a very cold refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare as many small [Génoise] squares as there are pears; and make them one-quarter inch wider than the diameter of the pears. Saturate these square bases with Anisette, and by means of a little apricot jam cooked to the [small-thread] stage, stick each of them on to very thin, dry-paste bases of the same size. Coat these prepared bases with the same apricot jam, and garnish them all round, as also their uncovered corners, with [pralined] splintered almonds.

When about to serve, take the pears out of the refrigerator, set them on these bases: stick into each a stalk and a leaf, made from pulled sugar; and dish on a napkin.

N.B.—Each pear should be cut vertically into two, three, or four pieces, subject to its size.

[2709—POIRES FÉLICIA]

Poach some quartered William pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool. Cook also, in a pink syrup, some very small halved pears.

Dish the quarters in the middle of a border of Viennese cream (No. [2641]) laid out upon a dish. Cover them with a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with crushed, red [pralines].

Surround the cream border with the pink half-pears.

[2710—POIRES A LA FLORENTINE]

Fill an oiled border-mould with a semolina Bavarois preparation, and let it set. Turn it out at the last moment, and garnish the middle of the border with stewed pears, cohered by means of a vanilla-flavoured apricot purée.

[2711—POIRES HÉLÈNE[!-- TN: grave invisible --]

Poach the pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool.

When about to serve, dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, sprinkled with crystallised violets.

Serve a hot, chocolate sauce separately.

[2712—POIRES MARQUISE]

Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and drain them that they may cool. This done, coat them again and again with [781] ]some very stiff raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly, and sprinkle them instantly with chopped, burnt almonds.

Set the pears on a “Diplomatic Pudding,” made in a manqué mould, and turned out on a round dish. Surround the base of the pudding with a border of apple-jelly [croûtons], neatly cut to triangular shapes.

[2713—POIRES MARY-GARDEN]

Cook the pears in syrup; cool them, and dish them on a timbale, upon a Melba sauce, combined with half-sugared cherries, softened in tepid water for a few minutes.

Decorate the pears with Chantilly cream.

[2714—POIRES MELBA]

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and proceed as directed under No. [2699].

[2715—POIRES PRALINEES]

Stew the pears and let them cool. Set them in a timbale, and coat with some Frangipan cream, thinned by means of a little raw cream.

Between each pear, set a well-moulded tablespoonful of Chantilly cream, and cover the whole with [concassed]-almond [pralin].

Serve a cold or hot chocolate sauce at the same time.

[2716—POIRES A LA RELIGIEUSE]

Stew the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; cool them, and dish them in a shallow porcelain timbale equal in depth to the length of the pears.

Cover them with a somewhat thin chocolate Bavarois preparation, and place the whole for two hours in the refrigerator before serving.

[2717—POIRES AU RHUM]

Stew the pears and set them in a timbale.

Thicken the syrup with arrowroot, colour it faintly with pink; flavour it with rum; pour it over the pears, and let them cool.

N.B.—These pears may also be served hot, after the same recipe; except that the rum is poured over the pears, hot, at the last moment, and set alight at the table.

[2718—POIRES A LA REINE EMMA]

Mould a Flamri preparation in an even border-mould, decorated with candied fruit. Set this to poach, and, when it is cold, turn it out on a round dish.

In the middle set a pyramid of quartered pears, stewed in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; coat the quarters with Frangipan cream, [782] ]combined with a quarter of its bulk of crushed, dry macaroons, and with double its volume of very stiff Chantilly cream.

Decorate the top, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream; and serve some Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples.

[2719—POMMES A LA ROYALE]

Peel some small apples, core them by means of a tube-cutter, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are quite cold, coat them with red-currant jelly, and dish them in a circle, each upon a tartlet of blanc-mange. Garnish their midst with chopped Maraschino jelly.

Various Cold Sweets (Entremets).

[2720—BISCUIT A LA REINE]

Cook, in a manqué mould, a Savoy-biscuit preparation, and let it cool.

With a little apricot jam, cooked to the [small-thread] stage, stick this biscuit on a dry-paste base; saturate it with cold syrup, flavoured with Kümmel, and by means of a piping-bag decorate it all round and on its edges with royale icing.

Turn out upon it a Bavarois with Maraschino, moulded in a Richelieu mould of proportionate size.

[2721—CROÛTE A LA MEXICAINE]

Cut some slices three inches long by one-third inch thick from a stale [Génoise]. Coat them with a Condé [pralin], and dry them in a moderate oven.

Set these croûtes in a crown on a round dish, and garnish their midst with a rocky pyramid of plombière ice, projecting above them.

[2722—DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS]

Prepare (1) a base of [Génoise] with fruit, glazed with apricot jam, cooked to the [small-thread] stage; (2) a Bavarois with fruits.

Turn out the latter upon the former, and surround the whole with stewed fruit of the same kind as those used for the Bavarois.

[2723—ILE FLOTTANTE]

Take a stale Savoy biscuit, and cut it into thin slices.

Saturate the latter with Kirsch and Maraschino, coat them with apricot jam, and sprinkle the latter with currants and chopped almonds. Put the slices one upon the other, in suchwise [783] ]as to reconstruct the biscuit, and coat the latter with a layer of sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Sprinkle the cream with splintered pistachios and currants; set the whole on a tazza, and surround it with vanilla-flavoured English custard, or raspberry syrup.

[2724—MILK JUNKET]

Gently heat one quart of milk. When it has reached 95° F. take it off the fire; add two and one-half oz. of sugar to it; flavour it as fancy may suggest; put into it six drops of russet-apple essence (or two pastils of russet-apple essence, dissolved in six drops of water); pour it into a timbale, and serve it very cold.

N.B.—This very delicate and simple entremet is little else, indeed, than flavoured and sweetened milk, caused to set by the combined agencies of heat and russet-apple essence.

[2725—MACÉDOINE OF COOLED FRUIT]

Take some fresh fruit of the season, such as ripe William pears and peaches, peeled and sliced apricots and bananas, and add to it some small or large strawberries, raspberries, white- and red-currants; skinned, fresh almonds, etc.

Set these fruits in a timbale surrounded by ice, mixing them well together; sprinkle them with a syrup at 30° (saccharom.), flavoured with Kirsch or Maraschino, and let them macerate for an hour or two; taking care to toss them from time to time.

[2726—EUGENIA: ITALIAN CREAM]

Select some very ripe Eugenia; peel, slice, and set to macerate in a bowl, with Maraschino-flavoured syrup.

Set the fruit in a timbale, upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream; decorate them on top with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.

[2727—MARQUISE ALICE]

Prepare a [pralin]-flavoured Bavarois in a manqué mould: garnish the inside with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Anisette.

Turn it out on a dish, and completely cover it with an even coat of very stiff, sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

On top, lay some parallel lines of red-currant jelly, by means of the piping-bag; and then cut these lines at right angles, with the point of a small knife. Surround the base with small puff-paste triangles, coated with “Pralin a Condé,” dried in the oven.

[784]
][2728—MELON A L’ORIENTALE]

Take a melon that is just ripe; make a circular incision round its stalk, and remove the resulting bung. Get rid of the seeds and withdraw the pulp by means of a silver spoon. Cut the pulp into dice.

Copiously sprinkle the inside of the melon with icing-sugar and fill it up with wild strawberries and the pulp dice, spread in alternate layers, sprinkled with sugar. Complete with one-sixth pint of Kirsch; close the melon with the excised bung, seal the joint with a thread of butter, and keep the melon in the cool for two hours.

Dish it on a napkin, and serve [gaufrettes] at the same time.

[2729—MELON FRAPPE]

Select two very ripe, medium-sized melons, and, with the entire pulp of one of them, cleared of all the rind and seeds and rubbed through tammy, prepare a Granité after No. [2930].

Cut the other melon round the stalk and open it. Completely remove the seeds; and, by means of a silver spoon, withdraw the pulp piecemeal, and set it to macerate on ice with a little sugar and one of the following wines or liqueurs: Port, Curaçao

, Rum, Kirsch or Maraschino.

Keep the emptied rind for thirty minutes in a refrigerator.

When about to serve, set the emptied melon on a small block of fancifully carved ice, and fill it up with the Granité and the macerated pulp spread in alternate layers. When the melon is full, return the excised bung to its place.

N.B.—This melon is served, by means of a spoon, upon iced plates, and it often takes the place of ices at the end of a dinner.

[2730—MELON EN SURPRISE]

Empty the melon as above, and fill it with a [macédoine] of fresh fruits, combined with the withdrawn pulp of the melon, cut into dice and cohered with a sugared and Kirsch-flavoured purée of wild strawberries.

Close the melon and keep it in the refrigerator for two hours.

[2731—GARNISHED MERINGUES]

Join the [meringue] shells together in couples, by means of some stiff sugared and flavoured Chantilly cream or with some sort of ice, and dish them on a napkin.

[2732—MONT-BLANC AUX FRAISES]

Add some small wild strawberries macerated in cold, vanilla-flavoured syrup and drained, to some very stiff Chantilly cream; the proportions being four oz. of the former per quart of the latter.

[785]
]Dish in the shape of a dome; surround the base with large strawberries, rolled in beaten egg-whites and then in semolina sugar, and decorate the surface with large and very red half-strawberries.

[2733—MONT-BLANC AUX MARRONS]

Cook some chestnuts in sweetened and vanilla-flavoured milk and rub them through a sieve, over an overturned, even border-mould; in order that the chestnut purée, falling in the form of vermicelli, may garnish the mould naturally.

Fill up the mould with the purée

that has fallen over the sides of the mould; turn out the border on a dish, and in the midst set an irregular and jagged mound of sugared and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

[2734—MONT-ROSE]

Prepare a Charlotte, Plombière in a shallow [Madeleine] ice-mould.

Having turned out the Charlotte on a dish, cover it on top with tablespoonfuls of Chantilly cream, combined with a purée

of fresh raspberries, and so shaped as to imitate a pyramidic rock.

[2735—ŒUFS A LA NEIGE]

Mould some ordinary [meringue], by means of a spoon, to represent eggs; and drop the mouldings into a sautépan containing some boiling sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Turn the [meringues] over in the milk, that they may poach evenly, and, as soon as they are firm, drain them in a sieve.

Strain the milk through muslin; add six egg yolks, and with it prepare an English custard.

Set the egg-shaped [meringues] on a tazza and cover them with the prepared custard, kept very cold.

[2736—MOULDED ŒUFS A LA NEIGE]

Prepare the [meringues] and the English custard as above; but to the latter add five or six gelatine leaves soaked in cold water. Set the egg-shaped [meringues] in an oiled border-mould; cover them with the very cold custard, which, however, should not have set; and let the preparation set in the cool, or surrounded by ice.

[2737—MOUSSELINES D’ŒUFS REJANE]

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, lay some ordinary [meringues] upon sheets of white paper, in shapes resembling large macaroons.

Slip the sheets of paper into boiling, sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the [786] ][meringues] sever from them. Complete the poaching of the [meringues], and drain them.

Set these [meringues], two by two, in silver or porcelain egg-dishes; place a fine, poached half apricot in the middle of each, and cover the whole with a few teaspoonfuls of English custard.

[2738—MOUSSELINE OF EGGS, MIMI]

This is a preparation of ordinary [Italian meringue], poached in a [bain-marie], in a caramel-[clothed] mould. Let the contents get quite cold before turning out, and serve some stewed, fresh fruit and an English custard separately.

[2739—RICE A L’IMPÉRATRICE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Make a vanilla-flavoured preparation of rice for entremets, using the quantities of milk and sugar already prescribed. When the rice is cooked, and somewhat cold, add to it four oz. of a [salpicon] of candied fruit and four tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, per one-half lb. of raw rice. Then combine with it an equal quantity of Kirsch-flavoured Bavarois preparation, or one pint of thick English custard and one pint of whipped cream.

Let a layer of red-currant jelly set upon the bottom of a Bavarois mould; then pour the above preparation into the latter and let the whole set, either in the cool or surrounded by ice.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin.

[2740—RICE A LA MALTAISE]

Prepare the rice with milk as above, but flavour it with orange rind, and omit the apricot jam and the candied fruit [salpicon]. Combine with it an equal quantity of orange Bavarois preparation; pour the whole into a dome-mould, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out upon a round dish, and cover it with alternate rows of orange-sections, skinned raw and macerated in a syrup flavoured with orange-rind.

[2741—SUÉDOISE OF FRUIT]

As I mentioned in my remarks upon the preparation of jellies, a Suédoise of fruit is a jelly moulded in an aspic mould and garnished with layers of stewed fruit, the colours and kinds of which should be contrasted as much as possible.

[2742—FRAISALIA TIMBALE]

Prepare a timbale of Savarin paste in a Charlotte mould.

When it is baked and cooled, remove the crumb from its inside leaving a thickness of half an inch on its bottom and sides; smear it thinly with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and return the timbale to the mould.

[787]
]Now garnish it with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured, Bavarois preparation and wild strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. Let it set in the cool, or surround the mould with ice. Turn out the timbale first upon a plate; overturn it on a dish, and upon it set a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. Stud the latter all over with small, very red strawberries, or garnish it with large half-strawberries.

Surround the timbale with fine dice of strawberry jelly.

[2743—TIVOLI AUX FRAISES]

[Clothe] an ornamented mould, fitted with a central tube, with a thick coat of very clear, Kirsch-flavoured jelly. Fill the mould with a Bavarois preparation, combined with plenty of wild strawberry purée, and let its contents set. Turn it out, when about to serve, and surround it with very clear, chopped, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

[788]
]CHAPTER XXI

ICES

Ices, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art, though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch of dietetic science.

[2744—THE MAKING OF ICES]

Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a moment’s notice.

There are two distinct operations in the confection of ices:—

(1) The making of the preparation.

(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices, and is the essential part of the procedure.

To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, iced [Soufflés], Puddings, [Mousses], Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.

The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central [789] ]pivot which turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.

Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lbs.

The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed, by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in advance if possible.

Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle, fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.

[2745—THE MOULDING OF ICES]

Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses. But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled, place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are the Bombes.

When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily [790] ]from the mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin lying on a dish.

[2746—PREPARATIONS FOR SIMPLE ICES]

Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream, and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit ices.

As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working average.

If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be proportionately reduced.

As an example of the difference that may exist between cream preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer) respectively.

[2747—ICE-CREAM PREPARATION (Generic Recipe)]

Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the mixture reaches the [ribbon]-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might decompose the custard.

Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it is quite cold.

N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may happen to characterise them.

Various Ice-Cream Preparations.

[2748—ALMOND ICE-CREAM]

Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.

Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.

[791]
][2749—ASPARAGUS ICE-CREAM]

Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.

[2750—FILBERT ICE-CREAM]

Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.

[2751—COFFEE ICE-CREAM]

Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.

Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half pints of boiled milk.

[2752—CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM]

Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be sweet.

[2753—WALNUT ICE-CREAM]

Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in boiling milk.

[2754—PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM]

Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk. Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.

[2755—PRALINED ICE-CREAM]

Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almond [pralin], and add thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.

[2756—TEA ICE-CREAM]

Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk, and make the preparation in the usual way.

[2757—VANILLA ICE-CREAM]

When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for twenty minutes.

N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also [792] ]when the preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of whipped cream per quart.

[2758—PREPARATIONS FOR FRUIT ICES]

The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.), to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole lemon per quart of the preparation.

Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices; while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.

In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of fruit is used.

All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.

[2759—THE MAKING OF FRUIT ICE PREPARATIONS]

These preparations are made in two ways as follows:—

(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.

This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.

(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way, subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.

Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.

[2760—LIQUEUR-ICE PREPARATIONS]

These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.

The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur [793] ]flavour may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch ices, etc.

These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.

Various Fruit-Ice Preparations.

[2761—APRICOT ICE]

Take one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or 19° (saccharometer).

[2762—PINE-APPLE ICE]

Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation, which should measure from 18° to 20°.

[2763—BANANA ICE]

Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.

[2764—CHERRY ICE]

Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.

[2765—LEMON ICE]

Set the [zests] of three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges, and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.

[2766—STRAWBERRY ICE]

Mix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs. of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or 18°.

[2767—RASPBERRY ICE]

Proceed as for No. [2766], and use the same quantities.

[794]
][2768—RED-CURRANT ICE]

Mix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with. The preparation should measure 20°.

[2769—TANGERINE ICE]

Throw the [zests] of the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.

[2770—MELON ICE]

Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.

[2771—ORANGE ICE]

Throw the [zests] of the rinds of four oranges into one quart of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.

[2772—PEACH ICE]

Proceed as for No. [2761], using wall peaches if possible.

[2773—PEAR ICE]

Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve, and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.

[2774—PLUM ICE]

Proceed as for No. [2761], bringing the preparation to 20°.

[2775—GRAPE ICE]

Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.

[2776—VIOLET ICE]

Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.

[795]
]Various Ices.

[2777—GLACE ALHAMBRA]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]; [clothe] its bottom and sides with vanilla ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.

[2778—GLACE CARMEN]

Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.

[2779—GLACE COMTESSE MARIE]

Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top. [Clothe] it with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.

[2780—GLACE COUCHER DE SOLEIL]

Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep it on ice for half an hour.

Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes. This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in crystal bowls.

N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of the western sky during a fine sunset.

[2781—GLACE DAME-JEANNE]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]; [clothe] it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with [pralined] orange flowers.

[2782—GLACE DORA]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]; [clothe] it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice and Bar red-currant jam.

[2783—GLACE ÉTOILE DU BERGER]

Take a star-shaped mould, or a [Madeleine-mould] with a star on its bottom. [Clothe] it with raspberry ice, and fill it with Bénédictine

flavoured [Mousse].

[796]
]Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the star.

[2784—GLACE FLEURETTE]

Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice, laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate with lemon ice.

[2785—GLACE FRANCILLON]

Take a square mould; [clothe] it with coffee ice, and fill it with liqueur-brandy ice.

[2786—FROMAGE GLACÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.

[2787—GLACE DES GOURMETS]

Take a “bombe” mould. [Clothe] it with [pralined], vanilla-ice cream. Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it in [pralined] splintered almonds.

[2788—MOULDED ICES]

These ices are made in large or small moulds.

The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers, and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.

Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the mould used.

Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.

[2789—GLACE DES ILES]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]; [clothe] it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with pine-apple ice.

[2790—MADELEINE GLACÉE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.

[797]
][2791—MANDARINES GLACÉES]

Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves adhering thereto.

With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in a refrigerator.

As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.

[2792—MANDARINES GLACÉES AUX PERLES DES ALPES]

Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerine [mousse], with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them, and frost them as directed above.

[2793—GLACE MARIE-THÉRÈSE]

Take a [Madeleine-mould]; [clothe] it with chocolate ice, and fill it with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.

[2794—MERINGUES GLACÉES]

Garnish some [meringue] shells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and set them on a napkin.

Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.

[2795—GLACE PLOMBIÈRE]

Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in alternate layers with apricot jam.

COUPES.

We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.

[2796—COUPES D’ANTIGNY]

Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of France is called “Crème

Niçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.

[798]
]Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.

[2797—COUPES CLO-CLO]

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry purée.

[2798—COUPES DAME BLANCHE]

Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a piping-bag.

[2799—COUPES DENISE]

Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on by means of the spoon.

[2800—COUPES EDNA MAY]

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.

[2801—COUPES ELIZABETH]

These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch- and cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered spices in which cinnamon should predominate.

[2802—COUPES EMMA CALVE]

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with [pralined] vanilla ice-cream. Upon the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the latter with raspberry purée.

[2803—COUPES EUGENIE]

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter sprinkle some crystallised violets.

[799]
][2804—COUPES A LA FAVORITE]

Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined with strawberry purée.

[2805—COUPES GERMAINE]

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and border the bowls with Chantilly cream.

[2806—COUPES GRESSAC]

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch. Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.

[2807—COUPES JACQUES]

Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of a [macédoine]

of fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

[2808—COUPES A LA MALMAISON]

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel grapes. Veil with spun sugar.

[2809—COUPES A LA MEXICAINE]

Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into very small dice.

[2810—COUPES MIREILLE]

Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be replaced by Bar white-currant jam.

Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.

[2811—COUPES PETIT DUC]

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice.

[2812—COUPES RÊVE DE BÉBÉ[!-- TN: original reads "BEBÉ" --]

Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.

[800]
]Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.

[2813—COUPES MADAME SANS-GÊNE]

Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.

[2814—COUPES TUTTI-FRUTTI]

Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices, spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.

[2815—COUPES VENUS]

Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.

In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.

Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.

[2816—LIGHT ICES]

These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.

To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and, since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the “[Mousses],” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”

These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.

[2817—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS]

The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard, prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.

When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin, left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it; which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in its turn, resembles that of the preparation for [Mousses].

[801]
]Iced Biscuits.

[2818—PREPARATION FOR ICED BISCUITS]

Whisk in a copper basin, in a [bain-marie], twelve egg-yolks and one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches the [ribbon]-stage.

Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold. Then, add eight oz. of [Italian meringue] and one pint of whisked cream.

[2819—THE MOULDING OF ICED BISCUITS]

These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted with lids, top and bottom.

Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.

For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to serve.

Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which are then named after them; e.g.: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced Biscuits may be prepared.

Various

Iced Biscuits.

[2820—ICED BISCUIT BÉNÉDICTINE[!-- TN: original reads "BÉNEDICTINE" --]

Mould the base with strawberry ice, the middle with Bénédictine

ice, and the top with violet ice. Freeze and cut up as directed.

[2821—ICED BISCUIT MARQUISE]

Mould with Kirsch and strawberry ices, alternated twice.

[2822—ICED BISCUIT MONT-BLANC]

Mould the base with a rum-flavoured preparation, the middle with a chestnut preparation, and the top with a vanilla-flavoured preparation.

[2823—ICED BISCUIT NAPOLITAINE]

Mould the base with a vanilla-flavoured preparation, the middle with strawberry ice, and the top with a preparation of [pralined] biscuit.

[802]
][2824—ICED BISCUIT PRINCESSE]

Mould and leave to set a biscuit-[pralined] preparation. After having cut up the moulding, surround it with splintered and [pralined] almonds.

Decorate the pieces with vanilla ice-cream and tangerine ice.

[2825—ICED BISCUIT SIGURD]

Mould the base with strawberry and the top with pistachio biscuit preparation. When the biscuit is frozen, cut it into rectangular slices, and sandwich each slice between two sugar wafers.

[2826—BOMBES (Generic Recipe)]

Originally, Bombes were made from an ordinary ice preparation, in spherical moulds; hence their name, which is once more justified by their arrangement, consisting as it used to do of superposed and concentric layers, the outermost of which was very thin. Nowadays, Bombes are more often moulded in the shape of shells, but the preparation from which they are made is much more delicate than it was formerly.

[2827—PREPARATION FOR BOMBES]

Gradually mix thirty-two egg-yolks with one quart of syrup at 28°. Put the whole on a very moderate fire, whisking it as for a [Génoise], and, when the preparation is firm enough and taken off the fire, continue whisking it over ice until it is quite cold. Then add the selected flavour, and one and one-third quarts of stiffly-whipped cream.

[2828—THE MOULDING OF BOMBES]

First [clothe] the bottom and sides of a mould with the ice preparation denoted by the name of the Bombe. This coat, which should vary in thickness in accordance with the size of the mould, should be somewhat thin, and made from an ordinary ice preparation, which is suited better than any other kind to this class of dish.

The middle is then filled with a Bombe preparation, flavoured as directed, or with a [Mousse] preparation. The whole is then covered with a round piece of white paper, and the mould is hermetically sealed with its cover, set to freeze, and left for two or three hours in the ice.

When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it with cold water; dip it quickly in tepid water; dry it with a towel, and overturn the mould on a napkin or on a block of ice.

[803]
]Various Bombes.

[2829—BOMBE ABOUKIR]

Having [clothed] the mould with pistachio ice, fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation, combined with chopped pistachios.

[2830—BOMBE AFRICAINE]

[Clothe] the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with an apricot Bombe-preparation.

[2831—BOMBE ABRICOTINE]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation, laid in alternate layers with stewed apricots.

[2832—BOMBE AÏDA]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation.

[2833—BOMBE ALMERIA]

[Clothe] the mould with Anisette ice, and fill it with a pomegranate Bombe-preparation.

[2834—BOMBE ALHAMBRA]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and garnish it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation. After turning it out surround the Bombe with a crown of fine strawberries macerated in Kirsch.

[2835—BOMBE AMÉRICAINE]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a tangerine Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with pistachio ice.

[2836—BOMBE ANDALOUSE]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2837—BOMBE BATAVIA]

[Clothe] the mould with a pine-apple ice and fill it up with a strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with candied ginger cut into dice.

[2838—BOMBE BOURDALOUE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with an Anisette Bombe-preparation.

After turning out decorate the Bombe with crystallised violets.

[2839—BOMBE BRÉSILIENNE]

[Clothe] the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum Bombe-preparation combined with pine-apple dice.

[804]
][2840—BOMBE CAMARGO]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2841—BOMBE CARDINAL]

[Clothe] the mould with a red-currant and raspberry ice, and fill it with a [pralined] vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2842—BOMBE CEYLAN]

[Clothe] the

mould with coffee ice and fill it with a rum Bombe-preparation.

[2843—BOMBE CHÂTEAUBRIAND]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2844—BOMBE CLARENCE]

[Clothe] the mould with banana ice, and fill it with a violet Bombe-preparation.

[2845—BOMBE COLOMBIA]

[Clothe] the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a pear Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with half-sugared cherries.

[2846—BOMBE COPPÉLIA]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2847—BOMBE CZARINE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with a Kümmel Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate it with crystallised violets.

[2848—BOMBE DAME-BLANCHE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with an almond milk Bombe-preparation.

[2849—BOMBE DANICHEFF]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.

[2850—BOMBE DIABLE ROSE]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with half-sugared cherries.

[2851—BOMBE DIPLOMATE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Maraschino Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

[805]
][2852—BOMBE DUCHESSE]

[Clothe] the mould with banana-ice, and fill it with a pear Bombe-preparation flavoured with Kirsch.

[2853—BOMBE FANCHON]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation, containing some coffee-drops.

[2854—BOMBE FEDORA]

[Clothe] the mould with orange ice, and fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2855—BOMBE FLORENTINE]

[Clothe] the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2856—BOMBE FORMOSA]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with big strawberries.

[2857—BOMBE FRANCILLON]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Bombe-preparation flavoured with liqueur-brandy.

[2858—BOMBE FROU-FROU]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a rum Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

[2859—BOMBE GRANDE DUCHESSE]

[Clothe] the mould with pear ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation.

[2860—BOMBE GISMONDA]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with an Anisette Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar white-currant jam.

[2861—BOMBE HAVANAISE]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum Bombe-preparation.

[2862—BOMBE HILDA]

[Clothe] the mould with filbert ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation, combined with filbert [pralin].

[2863—BOMBE HOLLANDAISE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.

[2864—BOMBE JAFFA]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with an orange Bombe-preparation.

[806]
][2865—BOMBE JAPONAISE]

[Clothe] the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a tea [mousse]-preparation.

[2866—BOMBE JEANNE D’ARC]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a chocolate [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2867—BOMBE JOSÉPHINE]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.

[2868—BOMBE MADELEINE]

[Clothe] the mould with almond ice, and fill it with a vanilla and Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

[2869—BOMBE MALTAISE]

[Clothe] the mould with blood-orange ice, and fill it with tangerine-flavoured Chantilly cream.

[2870—BOMBE A LA MARÉCHALE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with alternate layers of pistachio, orange and vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2871—BOMBE MARGOT]

[Clothe] the mould with almond ice, and fill it with pistachio Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate with vanilla ice-cream.

[2872—BOMBE MARIE LOUISE]

[Clothe] the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2873—BOMBE MARQUISE]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Champagne Bombe-preparation.

[2874—BOMBE MASCOTTE]

[Clothe] the mould with peach-ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.

[2875—BOMBE MATHILDE]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with an apricot Bombe-preparation.

[2876—BOMBE MÉDICIS]

[Clothe] the mould with brandy ice, and fill it with a raspberry Bombe-preparation.

[807]
][2877—BOMBE MERCÉDÈS]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation.

[2878—BOMBE MIGNON]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with nut Bombe-preparation.

[2879—BOMBE MISS HELYETT]

[Clothe] the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.

[2880—BOMBE MOGADOR]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.

[2881—BOMBE MOLDAVE]

[Clothe] the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.

[2882—BOMBE MONTMORENCY]

[Clothe] the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a cherry Bombe-preparation. After turning out, surround it with half-candied cherries.

[2883—BOMBE MOSCOVITE]

[Clothe] the mould with Kümmel ice, and fill it with a bitter-almond Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

[2884—BOMBE MOUSSELINE]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with strawberry purée.

[2885—BOMBE NABAB]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with a liqueur-brandy Bombe-preparation, containing candied fruit.

[2886—BOMBE NÉLUSKO]

[Clothe] the mould with filbert [pralined] ice, and fill it with a chocolate Bombe-preparation.

[2887—BOMBE NERO]

Take a dome-mould and [clothe] it with vanilla ice-cream with caramel; fill it with vanilla [Mousse], combined with small, imitation truffles, the size of small nuts, made from chocolate.

Turn out the Bombe on a thin cushion of Punch Biscuit, of the same diameter as the Bombe. Cover the whole with a thin layer of [Italian meringue]; and, on top, set a small receptacle made of Italian meringue dried in an almost cold oven. Decorate the sides by means of a piping-bag with meringue, and set the whole in the oven to glaze quickly.

[808]
]On taking the Bombe out of the oven, pour some hot rum into the bowl, and set a light to it when serving.

[2888—BOMBE SAINT LAUD]

[Clothe] the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with alternate layers of melon Bombe-preparation and Chantilly cream.

[2889—BOMBE NESSELRODE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with chestnut purée.

[2890—BOMBE ODETTE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2891—BOMBE ODESSA]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation.

[2892—BOMBE ORIENTALE]

[Clothe] the mould with ginger ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.

[2893—BOMBE PATRICIENNE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a [pralin] and chocolate Bombe-preparation.

[2894—BOMBE PETIT DUC]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a hazel-nut Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.

[2895—BOMBE POMPADOUR]

[Clothe] the mould with asparagus ice, and fill it with a pomegranate Bombe-preparation.

[2896—BOMBE PROPHÈTE]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with pine-apple preparation.

[2897—BOMBE RICHELIEU]

[Clothe] the mould with rum ice; fill it with a coffee Bombe-preparation, and distribute coffee drops upon it after turning.

[2898—BOMBE ROSETTE]

[Clothe] the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with red-currant-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with red-currants.

[2899—BOMBE A LA ROYALE]

[Clothe] the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a chocolate [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[809]
][2900—BOMBE SANTIAGO]

[Clothe] the mould with Brandy ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.

[2901—BOMBE SÉLIKA]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.

[2902—BOMBE SKOBELEFF]

[Clothe] the mould with Vodka ice, and fill it with Kümmel-flavoured Chantilly cream.

[2903—BOMBE STROGOFF]

[Clothe] the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a Champagne Bombe-preparation.

[2904—BOMBE SUCCÊS]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with candied apricots cut into dice.

[2905—BOMBE SULTANE]

[Clothe] the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with a [pralined] Bombe-preparation.

[2906—BOMBE SUZANNE]

[Clothe] the mould with pink rum ice, and fill it with vanilla Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.

[2907—BOMBE TORTONI]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined]

ice, and fill it with coffee Bombe-preparation, containing coffee seeds.

[2908—BOMBE TOSCA]

[Clothe] the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Maraschino and fruit Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate the Bombe with lemon ice.

[2909—BOMBE TROCADÉRO]

[Clothe] the mould with orange ice, combined with candied orange-rind, cut into small dice; and fill with alternate layers of Chantilly cream and roundels of filbert [Génoise], cut in graduated sizes, and saturated with Curaçao syrup. Sprinkle some orange-[zest] dice on each roundel of [Génoise].

[2910—BOMBE TUTTI-FRUTTI]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a lemon Bombe-preparation, combined with various candied fruits, cut into dice.

[2911—BOMBE A LA VALENÇAY[!-- TN: cedilla invisible --]

[Clothe] the mould with [pralined] ice, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with raspberries.

[810]
][2912—BOMBE VÉNITIENNE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

[Clothe] the mould half with vanilla and half with strawberry ice and fill it with a Maraschino and Kirsch Bombe-preparation.

[2913—BOMBE VICTORIA]

[Clothe] the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Plombière ice.

[2914—BOMBE ZAMORA]

[Clothe] the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.

Iced Mousses.

The composition for [mousses] is prepared either from English cream or from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit [mousses].

[2915—PREPARATION FOR ICED FRUIT MOUSSES]

This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity of a purée of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of very stiff Chantilly cream.

[2916—PREPARATION OF ICED MOUSSE WITH CREAM]

Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.

When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream, two-thirds oz. of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which is to characterise the preparation.

If the [mousse] be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purée of fresh fruit.

Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy; put it into moulds, lined with white paper; thoroughly close them, and keep them in a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.

[2917—VARIOUS ICED MOUSSES]

After the same procedure, [mousses] may be prepared with Anisette, Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc.; Apricots, Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts, Peaches, Vanilla, Violets, etc.

[2918—PARFAIT (Generic Recipe)]

Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put the mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream; strain it, and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.

Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint [811] ]of brandy or rum, in order to finish it; mould the preparation in Parfait moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three hours.

N.B.—The term “Parfait,” which, formerly, was applied only to “Parfait au Café,” has become the common name for un-[clothed] ices, made from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And this is fairly logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a few insignificant distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.

It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and [pralined] Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.

[2919—ICED PUDDINGS]

Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in reality, they are not ices at all. They are nothing else than iced entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of Bavarois.

The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this rule.

[2920—PUDDING DE CASTRIES]

[Clothe] a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick, alternate layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on each thickness of which a layer of lady’s-finger biscuits, cut into dice and sprinkled with Anisette, should be spread; and the other preparation should be of tangerine.

Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate, and fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream.

Thoroughly close the utensil; pack it for about two or three hours. Turn it out on a folded napkin; sprinkle thereon a few red, crushed [pralins]; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.

[2921—MARIE-ROSE PUDDING]

Line a Charlotte mould with rolled [gaufrettes]; placing them snugly one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the [gaufrettes] with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould with a vanilla [pralined] Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the refrigerator for three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin. Decorate it on top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a chocolate ice-cream separately.

[2922—PUDDING MIRAMAR]

Garnish an iced, [Madeleine-mould] with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices of fresh pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of tangerine, skinned raw.

[812]
]Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate juice, flavoured with Kirsch; close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to serve.

Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.

[2923—PUDDING SEYMOUR]

Cut a [Mousseline] Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak in raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely slice some peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup; also peel some very ripe William pears.

Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and [Orgeat]; and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the slices of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added; and the Bombe-preparation.

Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin.

[2924—ICED SOUFFLÉES[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

The preparation differs according as to whether the [Soufflés] be prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee, Chocolate, etc.

The last named are made with the Iced-[Mousse] preparation (No. [2916]), which may also serve for the fruit [Soufflés]; but, in the case of the latter, the following preparation is preferable:—

Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add to this one and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the [small-crack] stage. Transfer the whole to a basin; flavour according to fancy, and add one pint of a purée of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-whisked cream.

[2925—THE MOULDING OF LARGE AND SMALL ICED SOUFFLÉS]

Mould the large ones in ordinary [Soufflé] timbales, which should be lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter, and overreaching the edges of the timbales by one and a half to two inches, that the preparation, in projecting above the brims of the utensils, may appear like a [Soufflé] when the paper is removed.

The small [Soufflés] are moulded in cases or in small silver [cassolettes], which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are moulded, put the [Soufflés] in a very cold refrigerator; and when about to serve them, carefully remove the bands of paper which, once the preparation has solidified, have served their purpose; and [813] ]dish the cases or silver [cassolettes] on a napkin or on a carved block of ice.

Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced Soufflés

may be indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to which they lend themselves.

[2926—SORBETS (Sherbets)]

Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrées. They serve in freshening the stomach; preparing it to properly receive the roast.

They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion.

[2927—PREPARATION FOR SORBETS]

Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15°; or they may be prepared as follows:—For one quart of preparation, take the juice of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of Samos wine, of Sauterne, or other good wine; and add cold syrup at 22°, until the saccharometer registers 15°.

For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of the preparation; but remember that this is subject to the kind of liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at 18° or 19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the proper degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should only be added when the Sherbet is completely frozen; that is to say at the last moment.

Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups of aqueous fruits. Fruit purées are scarcely suited to this mode of procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.

The Freezing of Sherbets.—Pour the preparation into the turbine or the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep the utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from the sides of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix them with the whole, until the latter is completely congealed; remembering not to stir at all during the freezing process. When the preparation is firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its weight of [Italian meringue] or very stiffly whipped cream; and finish by the addition of the liqueur.

The Dishing of Sherbets.—Take some of the Sherbet preparation in a spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it to a point.

When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the preparation when it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the selected wine.

[814]
]The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be such as to allow of its being drunk.

[2928—VARIOUS SORBETS]

Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the juices of every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur such as Port, Samos wine, Marsala, Johannisberg

, Rum, Kirsch, Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and since the procedure is the same in every case, there is no need to devote a special article to each.

[2929—SORBET A LA SICILIENNE]

Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three hours.

One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under “Surprise Melon,” and withdraw the seeds.

Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without withdrawing it from the fruit; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and put the whole back into the refrigerator.

Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the pulp before the diners in Sherbet glasses.

[2930—GRANITÉS]

Granités answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may also be introduced into certain culinary preparations.

The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups made from fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees (saccharometer).

Granités consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with any Italian or other [meringue].

As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard to these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during the freezing process, lest it turn; and, when it is congealed, it should form a light, granulated mass.

[2931—MARQUISES]

Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple, with Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch, registering 17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for Granités; but it should be carried a little further.

When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof with half a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a strawberry or pine-apple purée, subject to the designation of the Marquise.

[815]
][2932—PUNCH A LA ROMAINE]

Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint of syrup at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17°; add the juice of two oranges and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon [zest], and let infusion proceed for one hour.

Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.

Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with the quarter of its volume of [Italian meringue] (prepared from two egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).

When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added little by little.

Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.

N.B.—For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished preparation should be allowed for every ten people.

[2933—SPOOMS]

Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add to it twice as much [Italian meringue] as was added to the Sherbets. Do not work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.

Spooms are made from fruit juices; but more often from such wines as Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.

Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.

[816]
]CHAPTER XXII

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS

N.B.—The quantities given below are calculated to be sufficient for fifteen glassfuls.

[2934—BAVAROISE]

Work eight oz. of powdered sugar with eight egg-yolks in a saucepan, until the whole becomes white and reaches the [ribbon] stage. Then add consecutively: one-fifth pint of capillary syrup, one pint of freshly made, boiling hot tea, and the same amount of boiling milk; whisking briskly the while, that the drink may be very frothy. Complete at the last moment with one-third pint of the liqueur which is to characterise the Bavaroise, i.e., either Kirsch or Rum.

If the Bavaroise be flavoured with vanilla, orange or lemon, let the flavour infuse in the milk for fifteen minutes beforehand. If it be flavoured with chocolate, dissolve six oz. of the latter, and add the milk to it, flavoured with vanilla.

If it be coffee-flavoured, set three oz. of freshly-torrified and [concassed] coffee to infuse in the milk or flavour with one pint of freshly-made coffee.

Bavaroise is served in special glasses, and it must be frothy.

[2935—BISCHOFF]

Put into a basin one bottleful of Champagne, one Sherry-glassful of “tilleul” infusion, one orange and one lemon, cut into thin slices, and enough syrup at 32° to bring the preparation to 18°. Let maceration proceed in the cool for an hour. This done, strain the whole; freeze it like a Granité, and finish it with four liqueur-glassfuls of liqueur-brandy.

Serve in bumpers.

[2936—ICED COFFEE]

Pour one and a half pints of boiling water, gradually, over ten oz. of freshly-ground coffee, and strain it gently. Put this coffee into a bowl with 20 oz. of loaf-sugar, and let the latter dissolve [817] ]while the coffee cools. Then add one quart of very cold, boiled milk, in which half a stick of vanilla should have infused, and one pint of very fresh cream.

Freeze the whole in a freezer, taking care to keep the preparation almost liquid, and serve it in very cold cups.

[2937—LEMONADE]

Dissolve half-lb. of loaf-sugar in one quart of filtered water. Add the juice and the [zests] of the rinds of two lemons, and let infusion proceed in the cool for three hours. Pass the whole through a fine strainer; add one syphonful of seltzer water, and serve with a thin roundel of lemon in each glass.

[2938—PINEAPPLE WATER]

Finely chop one and a half lbs. of fresh or preserved pineapple; put it into a basin and pour over it one quart of boiling syrup at 20°. Let it cool, and infuse for two hours.

Strain through a woollen bag; add a piece of ice and sufficient seltzer water to reduce the liquid to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for a further twenty minutes, and complete it, when about to serve, with three liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.

[2939—CHERRY WATER]

Stone two lbs. of very ripe cherries, and rub them through a sieve. Put the purée into a basin with the stones, crushed in the mortar, and let the whole macerate for one hour. Then moisten with one pint of filtered water, and strain the juice through a woollen bag, or muslin folded in two and stretched.

Add a piece of well-washed ice and six oz. of loaf-sugar, and put the whole in the cool for twenty minutes. Flavour, when about to serve, with four liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.

The saccharometer should register 9° when inserted into this preparation.

[2940—RASPBERRY-FLAVOURED, RED-CURRANT WATER]

Rub through a sieve, over a basin, twelve oz. of red and white currants, and four oz. of very ripe raspberries. Add to the currant-water one pint of filtered water, six oz. of loaf-sugar, and one piece of washed ice. Keep the whole in the cool for twenty minutes, and stir it from time to time with a silver spoon, that the sugar may dissolve.

Degree the same as in No. [2939].

[2941—MELONADE]

Rub one lb. of just-ripe melon pulp through a sieve. Put it into a basin and pour over it one pint of boiling syrup at 20°. [818] ]Let the whole cool and infuse for two hours, and strain it through muslin or through a woollen bag. Add a piece of very clean ice and sufficient seltzer water to reduce the syrup to 9°. Keep the preparation in the cool for a further twenty minutes, and finish it, when about to serve, with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water.

[2942—KALTSCHALE]

Peel and slice one-half lb. of peaches and an equal quantity of pineapple; add four oz. of ripe, melon pulp, cut into dice, and four oz. of a mixture of raspberries and red and white currants, cleared of their stalks. Put these fruits in a silver timbale and keep the latter on ice. Set a little cinnamon to infuse in a half-bottleful of boiling, white wine; add six oz. of sugar and the [zest] of one lemon; and let the whole cool. Then add half a pint of a mixed purée of strawberries and red-currants to this infusion.

Filter the whole, and complete it by the addition of a bottle of champagne.

Pour this preparation over the fruit, and serve the timbale very cold.

[2943—ORANGEADE]

Proceed as for lemonade, but use the juice and [zests] of orange rinds instead of those of lemons, and the juice of only half a lemon. Put very thin slices of orange in the glasses.

[2944—PUNCH WITH KIRSCH]

Throw a good half oz. of tea into one quart of boiling water, and let it infuse for ten minutes. Put into a punch or salad-bowl one lb. of loaf-sugar; strain the infusion of tea over the sugar, and dissolve the latter; stirring the while with a silver spoon.

Add one and a half pints of Kirsch, set it alight, and serve in glasses.

[2945—PUNCH WITH RUM]

Make an infusion as above, with the same amount of tea and one quart of boiling water. Strain it over one lb. of loaf-sugar, in a punch-bowl, and let the sugar dissolve.

Add a few thin slices of lemon, and one and a half pints of rum, and set light to it. Serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.

[2946—PUNCH MARQUISE]

Put into a small, copper saucepan one quart of Sauterne wine, half-lb. of loaf-sugar, and the [zest] of the rind of one lemon bound round a clove. Dissolve the sugar; heat the wine until it becomes [819] ]covered by thin white froth, and pour it into a punch-bowl after having withdrawn the [zest] and the clove.

Add half a pint of burnt brandy; set it alight and let it burn itself out.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

[2947—ICED PUNCH]

Prepare a Marquise Punch as above; when the wine is hot, take it off the fire; throw in a good half oz. of tea, and let the whole infuse under cover for ten minutes.

Pass the whole through a fine strainer; add one orange and one lemon, peeled raw and cut into slices, and some heated rum. Set alight; leave to cool, and reduce to 15°. Then freeze like a Granité, and serve in glasses.

[2948—HOT WINE]

Pour one bottleful of red wine over ten oz. of loaf-sugar, set in a small, copper basin. Dissolve the sugar. Add one orange [zest], a bit of cinnamon and mace, and one clove. Heat the wine until it is covered by thin froth, and then pass it through a fine strainer.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

[2949—HOT WINE WITH ORANGE]

Pour half a pint of boiling water over ten oz. of loaf sugar. Add the [zest] of one orange and let infusion proceed for fifteen minutes. Withdraw the [zest], and mix one bottleful of heated Burgundy wine with the infusion.

Serve with a roundel of orange in each glass.

[2950—WINE A LA FRANÇAISE]

Put eight oz. of sugar into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle thereon a few tablespoonfuls of water, that it may dissolve. Add one bottleful of excellent Bordeaux wine or red Burgundy, and the half of a lemon cut into thin slices. Stir the whole well with a silver spoon and serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.

N.B.—Always remember to free the lemons and oranges used of all pips, which would lend a bitterness to the drink.

[2951—CLARET CUP]

Put into a crystal bowl one oz. of loaf-sugar, the rind of one lemon and three slices of the latter, an equal quantity of orange, one strip of cucumber peel, one tablespoonful of Angostura Bitter, and a liqueur-glassful of each of the following liqueurs:—Brandy, Maraschino and white Curaçao.

Complete with one and a half bottles of red wine and a bottle of Soda. Cover and let the whole infuse. Strain, add a few pieces of very clean ice and a few leaves of fresh mint.

[820]
]CHAPTER XXIII

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS

[2952—PLAIN STEWED FRUIT]

Fruit for stewing is used whole, halved or quartered, and cooked or poached in a syrup, of a flavour in keeping with the fruit.

Dish these preparations in tazzas, bowls or deep dishes; cover them with their syrup, reduced or not; and, in certain cases, thicken the latter with arrowroot. They may be served hot or cold; but in any case, the fruit used should not be too ripe.

[2953—MIXED STEWED FRUIT]

These preparations generally consist of stewed, fresh fruit of one or several kinds; combined with fruit purées.

Quince and apple jellies are greatly used, either in coating the preparations or in bordering them with dice, &c.

With this class of stewed fruits, which are merely a matter of fancy and taste, candied and preserved fruits are almost always used as auxiliary constituents.

[2954—JAMS]

Under this generic title the following preparations are classed:—

(1) Those in which the fruit is treated directly with the sugar:—

(2) Those in which the juice alone, owing to its gelatinous nature, produces, together with the sugar, consistent jellies.

The amount of sugar used is subject to the nature of the fruit and its sweetness; but in the case of nearly all tart fruits, the weight of sugar should equal that of the fruit, or nearly so.

If too much sugar be used, the flavour is impaired; while crystallisation will follow very shortly afterwards; if too little be used, the jam has to be overcooked in order to be made sufficiently consistent, and the flavour is once more impaired by protracted evaporation; finally if the time allowed for cooking be inadequate, rapid fermentation will be the result.

[821]
]In making jam, therefore, the operator should base his measure of sugar upon the nature of the fruit he intends treating.

[2955—THE COOKING, POTTING, AND SEALING OF JAMS]

The time allowed for cooking any jam whatsoever can only be approximately decided, and it is a gross mistake to suppose the case otherwise, since the matter is wholly dependent upon the intensity of the fire, and the resulting speed of the evaporation of the vegetable moisture. Theoretically, a jam is all the better for having been cooked quickly, seeing that it may thus more easily preserve its colour and flavour.

For all that, unless great care and attention be exercised, a whole-fruit jam ought not to be made on a too violent fire, lest it burn. Conversely, when jellies are in question, wherein the juice alone of the fruit is treated, the fire should be as intense as possible; in order that the required degree of consistence, which marks the close of the operation, may be reached as speedily as possible.

The degree of consistence is the same for all jellies, and may be ascertained thus: when the steam given off by the preparation loses its density, and the boiling movement becomes perceptible, it may be concluded that evaporation has ceased, and that the real cooking-process, which is very rapid, has begun. At this stage frequently take the skimmer out of the saucepan.

The jam adhering to it falls off, at first very quickly; then, in a few minutes, it is seen to accumulate towards the centre of the skimmer and to fall therefrom slowly at lengthy intervals, in large drops.

This stage, which is indubitably indicative of the cooking being at an end, is called the “nappe” and is equivalent to the [large-thread] stage in the cooking of sugar; and, as soon as it is reached the jam should be taken off the fire. Allow it to cool for seven or eight minutes, and pour it into pots, which, if of glass, should be gradually heated, lest they crack.

The following day, set a round piece of white paper saturated with rectified glycerine, on each pot, and drop these pieces of paper directly upon the jam. Rectified glycerine will be found preferable by far to the commonly-used sugared brandy.

Then close the pots with a double sheet of paper, fastened on with string, and place them somewhere in the dry.

[2956—APRICOT JAM]

Cut the apricots in two, and use very ripe fruit, grown in the open, if possible. Break the stones, skin the almonds, and cut them in two. Allow three-quarters lb. of loaf-sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a preserving pan with one-third pint of water per [822] ]two lbs. of sugar, and, when the latter is dissolved, boil for a few minutes, carefully skimming the while. Add the apricots, set the whole to cook on a moderate fire, and stir incessantly, especially towards the end, when the jam is more particularly prone to burn on the bottom of the saucepan. Take the jam off the fire as soon as it reaches the “[nappe]” stage, as explained above, and mix the almonds with the jam.

[2957—CHERRY JAM]

Stone the cherries, and allow one and a half lbs. of loaf-sugar per two lbs. of the fruit; taking care to have equal weights of sugar and fruit if the latter be not over sweet. Put the sugar in the preserving pan; moisten it with water that it may dissolve, and boil it for five minutes, skimming carefully the while. Add the cherries and a half-pint of red-currant juice, and cook over a fierce fire until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.

Remarks:—(1) The addition of red-currant juice is advocated for this jam, seeing that by ensuring the proper consistence it obviates prolonged cooking; and, as I have already pointed out, red fruit is all the better, and preserves a more perfect colour, when it is cooked rapidly.

(2) When the fruit begins to boil, carefully skim it, otherwise the scum hardens, and not only spoils the jam but often sets it fermenting.

[2958—STRAWBERRY JAM]

This is one of the most difficult jams to make. There are several ways of preparing it, and the one I give strikes me as the quickest and simplest. Clean the fruit, which should be just ripe. Only wash it when absolutely necessary, as, for instance, when mould has stuck to it.

Allow twelve oz. of sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a preserving pan, sprinkle it with water that it may dissolve, and cook it to the large-ball stage (see No. [2344]), taking care to skim thoroughly when boiling begins. Throw the strawberries into the sugar, and set the preserving pan on the side of the fire for seven or eight minutes; that is to say, until the moisture of the fruit has dissolved the sugar to a syrup.

Return the saucepan to a fierce fire, and cook the strawberries for ten or twelve minutes, remembering to carefully remove the scum that forms.

Then withdraw the strawberries by means of a slice and drain them in a basin. Continue cooking the syrup rapidly, until the “[nappe]” stage shows signs of appearing, then return the [823] ]strawberries for five minutes; that is to say, until the “[nappe]” stage is completely reached.

Fill the pots, little by little, that the strawberries may be well distributed in them and not rise in a mass to the top, as often happens when the receptacles are filled too quickly.

[2959—ORANGE MARMALADE]

Select some oranges about equal in size, of a good colour, free from blemishes, and with thick and soft rinds. The latter consideration is important, seeing that the parboiling operation is effected more perfectly when the rinds are thick and supple.

Prick them somewhat deeply with a small, pointed stick (in order to precipitate the cooking process), and throw them into a preserving pan of boiling water. Boil for thirty minutes; drain the oranges, cool them, and put them under a running tap for twelve hours, or more if possible; or soak them in constantly changed, cold water for twenty hours. The object of this operation is to soften the rinds and extract their bitterness.

This done, drain the oranges; quarter them, remove their pips and filaments, and rub them through a coarse sieve.

Take the same weight of sugar as of orange purée. Melt the former in the preserving pan, and boil it for five or six minutes, skimming carefully the while. Then add the orange purée, and one-quarter pint of good apple juice per lb. of the former.

During the first stage of the cooking process, skim with great care, and during the second stage, stir almost incessantly until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.

[2960—PLUM JAM]

Allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of stoned plums.

Dissolve the sugar; skim, set it to boil for seven or eight minutes, and proceed for the cooking as directed under apricot jam.

Remarks:—(1) It is a mistake to let the plums macerate in the sugar for some hours previously, for the acid they contain causes them to blacken, and the colour of the jam is thus spoiled. (2) In order to have greengage jam of a fine, green colour, do not cook more than from six to eight lbs. of it at a time, and cook that quantity as quickly as possible.

[2961—RHUBARB JAM]

Rhubarb jam is one of the most difficult and tedious to make owing (1) to the abundant moisture contained by the vegetable; (2) to its proneness to burn on the bottom of the saucepan, especially towards the close of the cooking process.

If it be desired very green, select suitable natural rhubarb; if it be desired pink, only take the central stalks which are bordered [824] ]with red, or use forced rhubarb. In any case, it is best not to make more than five or six lbs. at once.

Suppress the ends of the stalks, cut what remains into pieces; by means of a small knife, scrape off the adhering skin and cut the stalks into three-inch lengths. Allow thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of rhubarb. Dissolve the former, boil it for seven or eight minutes and then throw the rhubarb into it. Cover the preserving pan and, put it on the side of the stove for about twelve minutes that the fibres of the rhubarb may be disaggregated, and at the end of that time become like vermicelli.

Then set the saucepan upon a fierce fire, and stir constantly until the preparation reaches the “[nappe]” stage, whereupon the jam is finished.

[2962—TOMATO JAM]

There are also several ways of making this jam, of which the following seems the most expeditious:

The first fact that should be grasped is that the amount of pulp that can be used represents about one-fifth of the tomato, and this itself depends upon the kind of tomato used, and whether it be just ripe, nearly so, or very ripe.

In order to obtain one lb. of pulp, therefore, five lbs. of tomatoes should be used, or thereabouts.

Finely slice the tomatoes, and rub them through a sieve. Put the juice and the purée into the jam-saucepan, and boil for five minutes, stirring the while.

This done, pour the whole into a napkin, stretched between the four legs of an overturned stool, as for straining a jelly; and let it drain thoroughly.

At the end of the operation, therefore, all that remains on the napkin is the mere vegetable pulp, freed of all moisture.

Allow the same weight of sugar as of pulp. Put the former into the jam-saucepan, together with a small glassful of water; let it dissolve, and cook it to the [small-ball] stage (see the cooking of sugar); taking care to skim it well as soon as it begins to boil. A stick of vanilla may be put with the sugar before boiling it; or the jam may be flavoured with a good tablespoonful of vanilla sugar when it is taken off the fire; in any case, the jam ought to be flavoured with vanilla.

When the sugar has reached the [small-ball] stage, add the tomato pulp to it, and one-fourth pint of red-currant juice per lb. of pulp. Owing to the fact that tomato pulp of itself has no cohesive properties the mixing of red-currant juice with it is essential.

[825]
]Set the preserving pan upon a fierce fire, stirring incessantly the while, until the “[nappe]” stage is reached; then let the jam cook for a few more minutes.

[2963—BLACK-CURRANT JELLY]

Take some very ripe black-currants: clean them; put them into the preserving-pan with half a glassful of water per two lbs. of fruit, and let them boil.

While this preparatory operation is in progress, the skins of the currants burst, and their juice flows into the pan. At this stage, transfer the fruit to a sieve lying on a bowl—a much simpler method than crushing and pressing them in a twisted towel.

Allow as many lbs. of sugar as there are quarts of juice; put this sugar into the preserving-pan; dissolve it, and cook it to the [small-ball] stage; thoroughly skimming the while. Add the black-currant juice, combined per quart with half pint of white-currant juice.

Move the utensil to the side of the stove for a few minutes, that the sugar may dissolve, and then cook the jelly on a fierce fire, carefully skimming the while, until the “[nappe]” stage is almost reached.

Remarks: The object of adding the white-currant jelly is to modify the blackness of pure black-currant jelly.

[2964—QUINCE JELLY]

Select very ripe fruit; cut it into slices; peel and pip these, and throw them into a basin of fresh water.

Then put them into a preserving-pan with three and a half pints of water per lb. of quinces, and cook them without touching them. This done, transfer them to a sieve, and let them drain. Return the juice to the pan, together with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb.; dissolve the sugar; and set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, meanwhile skimming with care, until the “[nappe]” stage is almost reached.

As soon as the jelly is cooked, strain it through a piece of muslin stretched over a basin; and by this means, a perfectly clear jelly will be obtained.

[2965—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method A)]

Take some red and white currants, in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter, and combine with them, per two lbs., three oz. of raspberries. Crush the three products together in a basin, and then press them in small quantities at a time, in a strong towel, in order to extract their juice. Put the juice in the preserving-pan, together with eight oz. of loaf-sugar per pint. Thoroughly dissolve the sugar, and set the [826] ]whole to cook over a very fierce fire; meanwhile skimming carefully—more particularly at first, until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.

N.B.—The yield of juice from red-currants equals about two-thirds or three-fourths the weight of the raw fruit.

[2966—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method B)]

Take the same quantities of white and red currants, and of raspberries, as above. Carefully clean the fruit; wash it in cold water, and put it into the preserving-pan, with one wineglassful of water per lb.

Cook the whole gently on the side of the stove for ten or twelve minutes; transfer the fruit to a sieve, lying on a basin, and let it drain.

Put the juice into the preserving-pan, with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb., and proceed with the cooking as before.

[2967—RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method C)]

Take the same quantities as above of white-currants, red-currants, and raspberries. Remove the currants from their stalks by means of a fork, and collect them in a basin; clean the raspberries, and allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of the fruit.

Dissolve the sugar in the preserving-pan with a little water and cook it to the [small-ball] stage; meanwhile skimming carefully.

Throw the currants and the raspberries into it; put the pan on the side of the fire for seven or eight minutes, that the juice may exude from the fruit; and then cook on a fierce fire, skimming very carefully the while, until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.

[2968—WHITE-CURRANT JELLY]

This is made from fresh, very ripe white-currants and two oz.

of raspberries per lb. of the latter. Any one of the three methods given above may be followed in its preparation, although Method C will be found to yield the clearest jelly.

[2969—RED-CURRANT JELLY, PREPARED COLD]

Prepare the juice as directed under No. [2965]. Add to it one lb. of icing-sugar per quart, and keep the whole in the cool for two or three hours, taking care to stir it frequently with a silver spoon in order to dissolve the sugar. Fill the pots and keep them uncovered for two or three days.

This done, cover them in the usual way, and set them in the sun for two or three hours per day for two days.

[827]
]This jelly is as fragile as it is delicate, and should be kept in the dry.

[2970—ORANGE JELLY]

In order to make one quart of orange jelly, take twelve oranges, each weighing about five oz.; one-third pint of good apple juice, one lb. of loaf-sugar, and a tablespoonful of grated orange sugar. The latter is obtained by rubbing the rinds of the oranges with loaf-sugar, and then grating the sugar so coloured and flavoured with a hard knife.

If the jelly be desired garnished, insert a fair-sized, candied orange-rind cut into small strips.

Preparation:—Thoroughly press the oranges and filter the juice; prepare the apple juice, and set the sugar to dissolve with a few drops of water.

Add the orange and apple juice to the sugar, and cook the jelly like the preceding ones. Leave it to cool for ten minutes; mix with it the orange sugar and the candied rind, and pour it into pots.

[2971—APPLE JELLY]

Proceed exactly as for quince jelly, and strain the apple juice without pressing the fruit. Do not cook the latter over much, lest the juice becomes mixed with pulp. Nevertheless, this should be very carefully poured away; for, in spite of the greatest care, there is always a certain amount of deposit.

Put the juice into the preserving pan, with thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar and one-third of a stick of vanilla per quart.

Cook, and strain through muslin, as in the case of quince jelly.

[2972—TOMATO JELLY (1st Method)]

Prepare the tomatoes as directed under No. [2962].

Per lb. of drained juice allow one good pint of apple jelly, twenty oz. of sugar, and a large vanilla stick.

Put into the preserving-pan the sugar, the apple jelly, and the vanilla-flavoured tomato juice, and put the utensil on the side of the fire for five minutes.

This done, set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.

[2973—TOMATO JELLY (2nd Method)]

Take the same amount of juice as in the preceding case.

Use red-currant jelly instead of apple jelly, and prepare the former from red and white currants in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. Use the same amount of vanilla as above. Put the latter into the preserving-pan; [828] ]dissolve it with a little water; add the vanilla, and cook it to the [small-crack] stage; remembering to skin carefully at the start.

Add the tomato pulp and the red-currant jelly to the cooked sugar; put the whole on the side of the stove for a moment in order to reduce the sugar; and then proceed with the cooking on a very fierce fire until the “[nappe]” stage is reached.