The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

MADE DISHES THAT CAN BE EASILY PREPARED AT A MODERATE EXPENSE IN MY KITCHEN AT HOME.

Preaching economy which has been practised from age to age in all domestic works is not here my intention, as my readers must quickly perceive that the simplicity of my receipts excludes the seal of extravagance, having simplified even dishes of some importance, which daily give and have given the greatest satisfaction at the Reform Club.

The regular courses of a cuisine bourgeoise, or domestic cookery, will be found extremely easy to execute in my Kitchen at Home, and numbers of them done to perfection in the Kitchen (or sanctorum) of a Bachelor, as well as in the small Cottage Kitchen.

No. 34. French Pot-au-feu. Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli, which have been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli are to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. Generally every quarter of a century makes a total alteration in fashions and politics, need I say also in cookery, which must be approximated not only to the fashion but more strongly so to the political world, humbly bending its indispensable services to the whims and wishes of crowned heads, which invariably lead the multitude; for example, the bills of fare of the sumptuous dinners which used to grace the tables of Louis the Fourteenth, Sixteenth, and Eighteenth, of France, were all very different to each other, and none of them were ever copied to grace the sumptuous and luxurious tables of the Empire; even the very features of them having undergone an entire change in our own days; every culinary invention taking its title and origin from some celebrated personage or extraordinary event, every innovation in cookery, like a change in fashion, causing us to forget those dishes which they have superseded; I have no doubt but that, if some correct historian could collect the bills of fare of dinners from various centuries and nations which crowned heads have partaken of, he might write a very interesting volume under the title of History of Cookery, in which we should be able closely to trace the original history of different countries.[23] Nothing can stamp the anniversary of any great event so well as a sumptuous banquet: peace, war, politics, and even religion, have always been the cause of extraordinary and sometimes monstrous gastronomic meetings; for a proof of which my readers will find at the end of this work a correct bill of fare (found in the Tower of London,) of a dinner given by the Earl of Warwick at the installation of an Archbishop of York, in the year 1470. In time of war artists are engaged sketching on immense canvasses the horrors and disasters of a battle, while in peace they sketch the anniversary banquets for the victorious, in honour of the event, (reminding us of the calm after a storm;) and we may sincerely hope, for the credit of humanity at large, that a disastrous battle may have its hundreds of anniversary banquets without a fresh combat. But to return to the humble but indispensable science of cookery. Everything seems to prove to us that it has always performed an important part in political events, and has been exposed to as many alterations; still, amongst so many changes, it is with a national pleasure that I find, amongst the heap of frivolous culinary ruins, an old favorite of our great great-grandfathers still remaining ours, having boldly passed through every storm, it has for ever established its culinary power upon our changeable soil. The brown cheek of this demi-immortal is daily seen ornamenting the firesides of millions, and merely acquaints the children the first thing in the morning that something good is in preparation for their dinner: this mighty vessel is called in French pot-au-feu,[24] in which is made that excellent and wholesome luxury which for centuries has been the principal nourishment and support of the middling and poorer classes of France at a very trifling expense. It is not upon the tables of the wealthy that the best of this national soup is to be obtained, but upon the right or left side of the entrance to his noble mansion, in a square, oval, or octagonal room, commonly called la Loge du Portier, or the Porter’s Lodge; as nearly every porter has his portière, that is, a wife who answers the door (whilst her husband is doing the frottage, or polishing the floor of the apartment), while pulling the string or wire which loosens the lock to let people in with one hand, she skims the pot-au-feu with the other; should she be fortunate enough to possess two eyes she would keep one upon her pot-au-feu, and the other upon the individual, who had, probably, come only to make inquiry; but unfortunately for La Mère Binard (whom I shall have the pleasure of introducing to my readers as a gastronomic wonder in her simple style), she had but one eye, which she almost entirely devoted to the ebullition of her pot-au-feu; having been portière there two-and-thirty years, she knew most of the people in the habit of calling by their voice, and used to answer them even without turning her shaking head. But what brought her domestic cookery in such high repute, that she was not to be excelled by any portière of Paris, was, that one day her master, M. le Comte de C**** (who was a good gentleman and great epicure), came home from a long ride while she was performing her humble occupation of pouring the soup into the tureen; a triple knock came to the door, which immediately opened as by electricity, and in walked her beloved master, who came to the door of the lodge to pay his duties to his old and faithful servant, whilst an exhalation of the most delicious fragrance perfumed the small apartment from the boiling consommé which attracted his scientific attention; after a short inquiry he discovered in an old brown pan the gloriously smoking hot consommé, and seizing with avidity a spoon by the side, tasted (much to the astonishment of La Mère Binard) several spoonfuls, pronouncing the first delicious, the second excellent, the third delightful, in fact, magnificent. “Can you spare any of it?” he said, addressing the worthy dame. “Yes,” said she, “but I am sure Monseigneur does not mean it.” “But indeed I do,” replied he; “and if I had been aware I could have obtained such a treasure, I would have had nothing else for my dinner to-day; and if you were not so far advanced in years I would not object to make you a cordon bleu.” The earthen pan was immediately conveyed up stairs to the dining-room, and deposited upon the table of his seigneurie, where an excellent dinner was waiting for himself and friends; but the immortal pot-au-feu, resting on a superb silver tray, with its handle half broken off, made all the homage of the dinner, to the great annoyance of the cook, who had thus sacrificed the art he had displayed in dressing a most recherché dinner, and felt much offended at the whim of his wealthy master, who had neglected his dinner to take pot-luck with his porter’s wife.

By a friendly introduction to La Mère Binard, I, with a great deal of supplication, obtained from her the following valuable receipt, having been obliged first to listen to the constant repetition of the above anecdote before she could explain it to me.—“I generally choose,” says she, “a bit of the gite à la noix, part of the aitch-bone, a piece of the rump, or a slice from the thickest part of the leg, weighing from four to five pounds, with sufficient fat attached, or adding a small piece; then I put it into the earthen pan, and fill with cold water till within two inches of the rim, being about four quarts; then I set it by my wood fire until beginning to get hot, when a thin scum will arise by degrees, which I carefully take off and throw away; then I add half a pound of beef liver, and a tablespoonful and a half of salt, it will produce more scum, which also carefully remove; have ready prepared, well washed and clean, two middling-sized carrots cut in halves, then in four, two small pieces of parsnip, four turnips, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, eight young leeks, or two old ones, a head of celery cut into pieces three inches in length, tie the leeks and celery into a bunch, and put altogether into the pot-au-feu, set it alone nearer the fire until it commences boiling, skim again, draw it a little farther to the corner of the fire, put a wooden skimmer across the pot, upon which rest the lid to prevent its boiling fast, (which would entirely spoil the soup, the meat becoming very hard and the soup thick and muddy).” “You quite astonish me, Mrs. Binard,” said I. “Oh,” says she, “I have had so many years of experience, and I know it to be the case.” “Yes,” said I, “my dear lady, I do not in the least doubt your correctness.” “Well, then, one hour afterwards I add a little cold water to keep it to the same quantity, put in a burnt onion to give it a colour, and let simmer four hours, sometimes five, depending if the meat is cut very thick; then I cut some large thin slices of bread, which I lay at the bottom of the tureen, then I take off the greater part of the fat, cut the bunch of celery and leeks open, lay them upon the slices of bread, with one of the carrots, two turnips, and the pieces of parsnip; take half of the broth with a ladle, which pour into the tureen, (there being quite enough soup for six of us, myself, Binard, my daughter and her husband, and the two boys); then I take out carefully the meat, which I lay upon the dish, with half of the liver at the side, the other half, when cold, I give to Minette (her favorite cat), lay the remainder of the vegetables round, with some fine sprigs of fresh parsley; by that time the bread is (trempé) moistened; set both upon the table at once, keeping the meat covered until we have done with the soup: that is the way we dine upon a Sunday. The next day, with the remainder of the broth I make vermicelli or rice soup, or the same with bread in it, and fricassée the remainder of the beef in various ways. When my daughter was ill I used to put a calf’s foot in the pot-au-feu with the beef; it made the soup very strengthening and did her much good.” “Will you be kind enough,” said I, “to tell me where you get these burnt onions, for I perceive without it your soup would be quite white.” “Bless you, sir!” she replied, “you may get six for two sous at any of the grocers, or you can burn them yourself in the oven, or by the fireside, gently turning them now and then until they are quite black, but not burnt to a cinder, or it would spoil the flavour of the soup.” I then took leave of her, returning thanks for her kindness, and put down the receipt as she gave it me during her long explanation, as follows:

Receipt. Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire; skim, when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip; skim again and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separate with the vegetables around. Since I have been in England I have broken my precious earthen pot; I have, however, made some very good soups at home in a black saucepan or stewpan, but must admit not quite so delicate and perfect as in the identical pot de terre.

SOUPS.—No. 35. Julienne Soup. Put about six pounds of knuckle of veal in a stewpan cut in four pieces, with about half a pound of streaked bacon; put a piece of butter at the bottom of the stewpan, and about half a pint of water, place it over a sharp fire, moving it round occasionally with a wooden spoon until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze, when add about a gallon of water, two ounces of salt, three onions (with two cloves in each), two turnips, one carrot, a head of celery, leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling put in two burnt onions (see Pot-au-feu) to colour it, and stand it at the corner of the fire to simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass the broth through a hair sieve into a stewpan; you have previously cut two middling-sized carrots, two turnips, an onion, a leek, and a little celery into very thin strips an inch long; put them in another stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place it upon a sharp fire, tossing them over occasionally until well fried and looking transparent, then put them into the broth with the half a young cos lettuce, and a little tarragon and chervil, place it at the corner of your fire, and when it boils skim off all the butter: let it simmer until the vegetables are perfectly tender, when pour it into your tureen; serve the veal and piece of bacon upon the dish with melted butter and chopped parsley over. Beef may also be used for the above, and the vegetables cut in any of the shapes directed for the soups in the other department of this work; if you only require a smaller quantity, take only three pounds, or diminish all in proportion.

No. 36. Mutton Broth. Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag end of the neck is usually chosen. Put about two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bone), with three onions (a couple of cloves stuck in each), three turnips, one carrot, and a bunch containing a leek, a head of celery, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, fill up the stewpan with rather more than a gallon of water; when boiling skim it, and place it at the corner of the stove, where let it simmer for three hours, then cut a small carrot, two turnips, an onion, and a piece of leek and celery into very small square pieces, put them into a stewpan with a wineglassful of pearl barley, pass the broth through a hair sieve over them, and boil at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces, and served in the broth, or separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce.

No. 37. Irish Mutton Broth. This broth is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes cut in large dice, which by boiling to a purée thickens the broth; just before serving throw in twenty heads of parsley, at the same time put in a few flowers of marigolds, which really give a pleasing flavour; it is then ready to serve.

At home I make clear soup of the trimmings of any meat, either beef, veal, mutton, or lamb, or the trimmings of two or three different sorts of meat, in the same manner as directed for Julienne soup.

No. 38. A very simple Receipt for the Scotch Cock-a-Leeky. This is a very favorite national soup with the Scotch, which by rights ought to have been the pride of Welsh cookery, ranking as high in the estimation of millions as their celebrated and generally appreciated rarebit, commonly called a Welsh rabbit.

Take six or eight pounds of leg of beef (depending upon the quantity you want to make), with which make a stock as directed for Julienne soup, letting simmer two hours, and keeping it well skimmed; in the mean time trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the head, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each half in three, wash well in two or three waters, pass the stock through a sieve into another stewpan, into which put the leeks, with a fowl trussed as for boiling, let simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, season a little if required, and half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place in a large tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previously to putting them with the stock. Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young one, but should an old one be most handy, stew it a short time in the stock before passing it.

No. 39. Ox-tail Soup. Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joint, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a carrot, turnip, three onions, head of celery, one leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add half a pint of water and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze; then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a tablespoonful of salt, stir occasionally until boiling, when set it upon the corner of the stove, skim well, and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bone; take them out immediately and put them into your tureen; pass the soup, which must not be too thick, through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery previously cut small and blanched in a little stock, and serve.

Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving vegetables in it as directed in Julienne soup (No. 35), but cut in any other shape.

No. 40. Ox-cheek Soup. Blanch and wash well two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek part whole, put altogether into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, also a burnt onion to colour it; let stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheek and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stewpan, mix half a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth, which pour into it and stir over the fire until boiling, place it at the corner, let simmer till tender (adding two heads of celery cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat in small square slices, keep them warm, and when the soup is ready pour over and serve. Sheep’s or lambs’ heads also make very good soup by following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock, two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew.

No. 41. New Mock Turtle Soup. Procure half a calf’s head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of lean ham, two ounces of butter, one of salt, at the bottom, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and a bay-leaf, with nearly half a pint of water; move round occasionally upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and put in the half head, let simmer at the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or till the head is perfectly tender, when take it up and press it between two dishes, pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and a bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot; then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white, stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, boil up, skim, and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, cut the head into pieces an inch square, not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen. The above quantity will make several tureens of soup, and will keep good several days.

No. 42. Brown Mock Turtle Soup. Proceed the same as in the last article, only colouring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, or with a couple of burnt onions, and serving with a glass of port wine in it, or two of sherry, omitting the cream.

No. 43. Mulligatawny Soup. Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put in a stewpan with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, six apples, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, a blade of mace, six cloves, and half a pint of water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, move the meat round occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of currie powder, one of currie paste, if handy, and half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add a spoonful of salt, half ditto of sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper, let boil up; then place it at the corner of the stove, where let it simmer two hours and a half, then pass it through a hair sieve into the tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, which serve in it, and some plain boiled rice separate; ox-tails or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be served in it instead of the veal; if too thick add a drop of broth or water.

No. 44. Giblet Soup. Clean two sets of giblets and soak for two hours, cut them into equal sizes and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a carrot, turnip, three onions, a head of celery, leek, two ounces of salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally, when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze add half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add two burnt onions to colour it; when boiling set at the corner of the stove, let simmer, skim well, and when the giblets are tender take them out, put them in your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty button onions, or any small sharp vegetable, is very good in it, also a glass of port wine.

No. 45. Green Pea Soup. Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of a pound of lean ham cut in dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart of cold water, and with the hand rub all well together, then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close and stand it upon a sharp fire, tossing or stirring them round occasionally; when very tender add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well in, mashing the peas with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add three quarts of broth, made as for Julienne soup (No. 35), or broth from the pot-au-feu (No. 34), and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a little pepper and salt if required, boil all well together five minutes; then rub it through a tammie or hair sieve, put it into another stewpan with half a pint of boiling milk, boil and skim, then pour it into your tureen, and serve with small croutons of fried bread-crumbs. It must not be served too thick.

No. 46. Winter Pea Soup. Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan with half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of veal or beef cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, previously passed in butter in the same stewpan; cover with a gallon of water, add a little salt and sugar, place it upon the fire; when boiling stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a purée, and the water has reduced to half, then take out the meat, place it in the tureen, keep it hot, and rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, and when boiling pour over the meat and serve. The bacon is good cold, the meat may also be put into the tureen if approved of.

No. 47. Purée, or Vegetable Soup. Peel and cut up very fine three onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and a bunch of parsley, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire; then add a good spoonful of flour, mix well in, moisten with two quarts of broth (prepared as for Julienne soup, No. 35), and a pint of boiling milk, boil up, keeping it stirred, season with a little salt and sugar, and rub through a hair sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, boil again, skim, and serve with croutons of fried bread in it.

No. 48. Soup Maigre. Cut two onions into very small dice and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry them a short time, but not to change colour; have three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, cut it into ribands, and put it into the stewpan with the onions, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, then a pint of milk and a pint of water, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little sugar and salt, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with a gill of cream, stir it in quickly, do not let it boil afterwards; put the crust of a French roll cut in strips into your tureen, pour the soup over, and serve.

No. 49. Onion Soup Maigre. Peel and cut ten large onions into small dice, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them over the fire, fry them well; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well, and rather better than a quart of water, boil till the onions are quite tender, season with a little salt and sugar, finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last; grated cheese is an improvement in it.

No. 50. Vermicelli Soup. Make your stock as for Julienne soup (No. 35), when passed put it into another stewpan with two ounces of vermicelli, boil it a quarter of an hour, then pour it into your tureen, and serve.

Semolina or tapioca soup is made the same, using either instead of vermicelli. For rice soup, see No. 197, Kitchen of the Wealthy.

No. 51. Macaroni Soup. (See No. 198, and Italian Paste, No. 194, Kitchen of the Wealthy.)

FISH.—No. 52. Turbot. For the methods of cleaning fish, see the other department of this work. In My Kitchen at Home I should never think of cooking too large a turbot, but choose a middle-sized one which, generally speaking, is the best; cut an incision in the back, rub it well with a good handful of salt, then with the juice of a lemon, set it in a turbot kettle well covered with cold water, in which you have put a good handful of salt, place over the fire, and as soon as the water boils put it at the side; if a turbot of ten pounds it will take an hour after it has boiled, if it should be allowed to more than simmer it will be very unsightly; take out of the water, leave a minute upon your drainer, serve upon a napkin garnished with fresh parsley, and lobster sauce in a boat; for sauce (see No. 68), or shrimp sauce (No. 73).

No. 53. Turbot, the new French Fashion. Boil your turbot as in the last but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over with a thickish melted butter (having placed a border of well-boiled small potatoes round), sprinkle a few capers over and serve.

No. 54. Turbot à la Crême is done with the remains of a turbot from a previous dinner; detach the flesh from the bone, and warm in salt and water, make cream sauce as page 99, only omit a third of the butter.

Brills are cooked in the same manner as turbots, but being smaller do not require so long boiling; but in boiling any description of fish, never take it up until it leaves the bone with facility, which try by placing the point of a knife between the flesh and the bone, if done the flesh will detach immediately.

No. 55. John Dorée, Boulogne fashion. John Dorées, though not very handsome, are very delicate eating; choose them from four to six pounds in weight, and boil as directed for turbot; one of the above size would require about three quarters of an hour; if any remain, dress like turbot, or with caper sauce, &c.

No. 56. Salmon, plain boiled. I prefer always dressing this fish in slices from an inch or two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about half an hour; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer, by not being put into the water until boiling; dress the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster sauce (page 30), shrimp do., or plain melted butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing ten pounds will require an hour and a half boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds, one hour. The remains may be dressed à la crême, as directed for the turbot (No. 54).

No. 57. Salmon Sauce Matelote. Cook three good slices of salmon as directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the letter S; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, having previously drained off all the water; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty small button onions, then put a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar into a convenient-sized stewpan, place it upon a sharp fire, and just as the sugar melts and turns yellowish add a quarter of a pound of butter and the onions, place it again upon the fire, tossing them over occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of flour (mix well, but gently), a glass of sherry, and a pint of broth (reserved from some soup), let boil at the corner of the stove, skim well, and when the onions are done and the sauce rather thick, add a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and one of essence of anchovies; when ready to serve add two dozen of oysters, blanched and bearded, allow them to get quite hot, sauce over and serve. I sometimes at home make a few fish quenelles (No. 124, Kitchen of the Wealthy) and add to the sauce.

The remainder of the above is very good if put in the oven upon a dish with a cover over and a little additional sauce.

No. 58. Cod Fish, plain boiled. (See page 119.)

No. 59. Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce. Boil three slices of the fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin, blanch three dozen oysters by putting them into a stewpan with their juice upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not let them boil; as soon as they become a little firm place a sieve over a basin, pour in the oysters, beard and throw them again into their liquor, put them into a stewpan; when boiling add four cloves, half a blade of mace, six peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have added half a tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream, or milk, and sauce over. The remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed upon a dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have added the yolks of two eggs) over, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty minutes in a hot oven till the bread-crumbs become brown.

For Salt Fish, see page 122, in the other department of this work.

No. 60. Haddocks. (See Nos. 308, 309, 310, Kitchen of the Wealthy.)

No. 61. Baked Haddocks. (See page 129.)

No. 62. Soles, Fried. (See page 114.)

No. 63. Soles, the Jewish Fashion. Trim the fish well, dip it into a couple of eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole; let remain five minutes, turn over, and fry upon the other side; ten or twelve minutes will cook it according to the size; serve upon a napkin without sauce. They are excellent cold.

No. 64. Sole à la Meunière. (See page 115, in the other department of this work.)

No. 65. Sole aux Fines Herbes. Put a spoonful of chopped eschalots into a sauté-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place the sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, upon which sprinkle some chopped parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an hour, take the sole out of the pan, dress upon a dish without a napkin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of anchovy, pour over the sole, and serve them with a little flour and butter.

No. 66. Fried Whiting. The whiting requires to be skinned, and the tail turned round and fixed into the mouth, dip it first into flour, then egg over, and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for whiting aux fines herbes proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes. At home I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, merely dipping them in flour.

No. 67. Whiting au Gratin. Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season the whitings with a little pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped parsley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of anchovy sauce (page 32), over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs, grated from the crust of bread, place it in a warm oven half an hour; it requires to be nicely browned; serve upon the dish you have cooked it in.

No. 68. Red Mullets. Procure two red mullets, which place upon a strong dish not too large, sprinkle some chopped onions, parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into a warm oven for half an hour, then put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint of melted butter, with a little chopped mushrooms and parsley; reduce quickly over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thick; when the mullets are done sauce over and serve.

No. 69. Mackerel are generally served plain boiled; put them in a kettle containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin, serve melted butter in a boat, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a few minutes.

No. 70. Mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel. (See p. 127); as also for Mackerel au beurre noir.

No. 71. Gurnets are best stuffed and baked; stuff them as directed for haddocks, turn them round in the same manner, lay slices of butter over, cut very thin, and bake half an hour or more (according to their size) in a warm oven, when done dress upon a dish without a napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of vinegar, place over the fire a couple of minutes, add half a pint of melted butter, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and two of water, reduce until rather thick, season with a little pepper, cut the fillets of a good anchovy into strips, put in the sauce, which pour round the fish and serve.

No. 72. Boiled Gurnet. You may boil it either with or without the stuffing in very salt water, it will require rather more than half an hour; serve with anchovy sauce separate.

No. 73. Herrings boiled with Cream Sauce. Boil six herrings about twenty minutes in plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer; then have ready the following sauce: put half a gill of cream upon the fire in a stewpan, when it boils add eight spoonfuls of melted butter, an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over and serve.

For Broiled Herrings à la Digon, see page 132.

No. 74. Skate is usually crimped, cut into long slices, and curled round; procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, in which you have put a good handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes (have ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with it), when done drain well, and put it upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts of a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over and serve.

For Skate au beurre noir, see page 133.

Skate may also be served upon a napkin with a boat of well-seasoned melted butter, to which you have added a spoonful of Harvey sauce.

No. 75. Flounders, Water Souchet. Procure four or six Thames flounders, cut each in halves, put half a pint of water in a sauté-pan, with a little scraped horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and forty sprigs of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish without a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour over and serve.

To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as directed for fried soles (p. 114).

Smelts are likewise floured, egged, bread-crumbed, and fried as above.

Plaice are plain boiled in salt and water, and served with shrimp sauce in a boat.

FRESH WATER FISH.—No. 76. Pike. Clean as directed (page 93), stuff the interior as directed for haddocks (page 129), only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a baking dish, spread a little butter all over, put in a moderate oven; when about half done egg over with a paste brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized pike will take about an hour, but that according to the size and the heat of the oven; when done dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to.

No. 77. Pike, Sauce Matelote. Cook a pike exactly as in the last, dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57).

This fish may also be served with caper sauce as directed for the skate (No. 74)—the smaller ones are the best; the remains of a pike placed in the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a little more sauce added, is very nice.

No. 78. Stewed Carp. Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it into a baking-dish with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, and a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten with two glasses of port wine, and put it in a moderate oven about two hours to bake; try if done with a knife, which is the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily, dress upon a dish without a napkin, then have ready the following sauce: mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, fry rather a yellow colour, add two glasses of port wine and two spoonfuls of flour, mix all well together, add a pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or water, with half an ounce of glaze, boil it up, drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the vegetables, which also add to the sauce; boil well at the corner of the stove, skim, and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, and a little cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of your dish, sauce over and serve.

No. 79. Carp, Sauce Matelote. Put your carp into a small oval fish-kettle, with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add also a pint of water and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the lid upon the fish-kettle and stand it over a moderate fire to stew an hour and a half, according to the size; when done drain well, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with a matelote sauce made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), or caper sauce, as for skate (No. 74); small carp are very good-flavored, bread-crumbed and fried.

No. 80. Truite à la Twickenham. When you have cleaned your trout as described at page 23, put them into a kettle of boiling water, to which you have added a good handful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter, into which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins in a boat.

The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent pickled; put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one turnip, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar; boil until the onions are tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will keep some time if required, and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again.

No. 81. Truite à la Burton. Boil the trout as in the last, then put half a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream and two of milk, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream (dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin), put two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and the juice of a lemon into the sauce; shake round over the fire, but do not let it boil; sauce over the fish and serve.

No. 82. Tench, Sauce Matelote. Put three onions, a carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, three bay-leaves, six cloves, a blade of mace, a little salt, and two glasses of sherry; lay your tench over (it will require four for a dish, and they may be either cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces), add a pint of water, cover down close, and stew gently over a slow fire for about half an hour, take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), or as for stewed carp (No. 78).

No. 83. Tench with Anchovy Butter. Cook the tench as in the last, but they may be plain boiled in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one of milk; place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add an ounce of anchovy butter (page 33), shake it round over the fire until the butter is melted, when sauce over and serve.

No. 84. Perch fried in Butter. Clean the fish as explained (p. 94), dry well, make an incision upon each side with a knife, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan over a slow fire, lay in the fish, fry gently, turning them over when half done; when done dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter in a boat.

No. 85. Perch, Hampton Court Fashion. Cook the fish as above, and have ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the point of boiling stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; blanch about twenty small sprigs of parsley in boiling water ten minutes, drain and put them in the sauce, which pour over the fish and serve.

Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench, with sauce served separate.

No. 86. Eels Fried. Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and throw them into some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles (p. 114).

No. 87. Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote. Procure as large eels as possible, which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them into a stewpan, with an onion, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about twenty minutes, or according to the size of the eels; when done drain upon a cloth, dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), but using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having previously well boiled it to extract all the fat.

No. 88. Gudgeons are floured, egged, bread-crumbed, or simply floured and fried as directed for smelts; but being smaller, they require less time to cook.

No. 89. Escaloped Oysters. Put two dozen of oysters with their liquor into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little firm drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan; detach the beard from the oysters, and throw them again into their liquor; add half a blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and when boiling add a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour; shake round over the fire until becoming very thick, season with a little cayenne, and salt if required, have an escalop-shell, well buttered and bread-crumbed, place the oysters in, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over, and serve.

No. 90. Stewed Oysters. Blanch and beard the oysters as above, when done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, with a little chopped parsley and cayenne; let simmer a minute, stir in two pats of butter, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer a little longer, lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast, and sauce over.

No. 91. Gratin of Lobsters. Procure a good-sized lobster, cut it in halves, detaching the head from the body, take out all the meat, and save the four shells; cut the meat into dice, then take a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, pass them a few minutes over a fire, add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well in), half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling about five minutes, then add the lobster, which season with a little cayenne, salt, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again upon the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg; take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, put them into the oven about ten minutes, the top requiring to be browned; serve upon a napkin garnished with parsley.