The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

PORK.

Pork is a great favourite with some persons but scarcely ever used for removes, except plain roasted stuffed with sage and onions, that I shall describe in my Kitchen at Home, but I shall here give six new ways of dressing pork for removes; it must be of the best quality, small, and, above all, in season.

No. 503. Leg of Pork sauce Robert.

Score the skin of the leg with a sharp knife, oil some paper, wrap the leg up in it, and roast about two hours and a half of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce: put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over a moderate fire till the onions are nicely browned, then add three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar (let it boil), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consommé, and a little brown gravy; let it boil at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim it well, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of French mustard; when ready to serve add twenty small gherkins, twenty pickled mushrooms, twenty small quenelles (No. 120), pour the sauce in the dish, dress the leg upon it, put a paper frill on the knuckle and serve.

No. 504. Leg of Pork à la Piedmontaise.

Roast the leg as before, and prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with four of Indian pickle vinegar, let boil a few minutes, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten ditto of consommé, let boil twenty minutes, skim well, season with a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stone forty French olives, put them into the sauce, glaze the pork and pour the sauce round.

No. 505. Loin of Pork à la Bourguignote.

Trim a small loin of pork, cut off all the rind, wrap it in oiled paper, and roast of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following preparation: cut six large onions in small dice and put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; let them stew over a slow fire till quite tender and rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and fifteen of brown sauce (No. 1); boil twenty minutes, season with a teaspoonful of chopped sage, half ditto of sugar, and half of salt, finish with the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire half a minute to set the eggs, and spread it over the pork half an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb over it, place it in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and serve the following sauce round it: put fifteen spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommé in a stewpan, with two of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and half a one of Chili vinegar, boil altogether ten minutes, and finish with a little sugar, salt, and pepper, if required.

No. 506. Neck of Pork à la Remoulade, à l’Indienne.

Trim the neck, but do not take off the rind, wrap it in oiled paper and roast as previously; make a good sauce remoulade (No. 717), to which add three tablespoonfuls of chopped Indian pickle, pour the sauce in the dish and dress the pork upon it.

No. 507. Neck of Pork à la Vénitienne.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, fry rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and twelve ditto of brown sauce, reduce it until thick, add half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped mushrooms, and season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and cayenne pepper; let it cool, open part of the neck lengthwise between the skin and the flesh, put in the above preparation, tie up the neck in oiled paper and roast it, then prepare the following sauce: put two chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a spoonful of salad oil, two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; boil five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), six of consommé, and six ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil altogether ten minutes, pour the sauce on your dish and serve the pork upon it.

No. 508. Roast Sucking Pig.

Procure a sucking pig of from eight to nine pounds, wash the inside and wipe it well with a dry cloth, prepare the stuffing thus: boil four large onions until quite tender, chop them very fine, with six leaves of sage, a little thyme and parsley, season with a little cayenne pepper and salt, add three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and mix it with three eggs, stuff the pig quite full, sew up the belly, put it on the spit, place it at a distance from a moderate fire (folded in buttered paper) for half an hour, then put it closer, allowing it two hours to roast, but ten minutes before it is done take off all the paper to allow it to become brown and crisp; serve plain gravy in the dish, and bread sauce with currants in it in a boat; before sending it to table take off the head and cut the pig in halves down the back.

No. 509. Sucking Pig à la Savoyarde.

Take a very delicate sucking pig and prepare the following stuffing: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of oil, pass them over a moderate fire five minutes, add half a pound of rice previously well boiled in stock, half a pound of sausage-meat, four pats of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and three eggs; mix all well together, stuff the pig, and roast it in oiled paper, as in the last; prepare the sauce thus: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of salad oil and fry them quite white, add a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and six tablespoonfuls of milk, let it boil a quarter of an hour, skim well, add a good tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar, ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; dress the pig in the dish, pour the sauce round, and garnish with small fried sausages.

No. 510. Turkey à la Nelson.

Make a croustade resembling the head of a ship, as represented in the design; procure a very white nice young turkey, truss it as for boiling, leaving as much of the skin of the neck attached to the breast as possible, have ready the following stuffing: scrape an ounce of fat bacon (with a knife), put it into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, pass five minutes over a moderate fire, then add twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), let it reduce till thick, add twenty small heads of mushrooms, six French truffles cut in slices, and twelve cockscombs; mix all well together over the fire, season with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, half ditto of salt, and a little white pepper; finish with the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, and lay it out on a dish to get cold, then detach the skin on the breast from the flesh without breaking, and force some of the stuffing under the skin; put the remainder in the interior of the breast, roast it in vegetables as described for fillet of beef (No. 417), but just before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, and let it remain before the fire till of a fine gold colour. Fix the croustade at the head of the dish with a paste made of white of egg and flour, make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the turkey in the centre, and have ready the following garniture: fillet three fowls, lard and braise the fillets as No. 792, form the legs into little ducklings as described (No. 1024), prepare six slices of tongue of the size and shape of the fillets, and dress them round the turkey upon the mashed potatoes to form a ship. For the sauce put two glasses of Madeira wine in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar, two minced apples, a small bunch of parsley, a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, and half an ounce of glaze; let it boil a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommé, let it boil quickly until it adheres to the spoon, stirring it the whole time, finish with a tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season with a little salt and pepper, boil it another minute, glaze the turkey, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the pieces of tongue and serve.

No. 511. Turkey à la Godard.

Procure a good-sized turkey, very white and well covered with fat, truss it as for boiling, hold the breast over a charcoal fire till the flesh is set, then lard it with fat bacon very neatly, lay the turkey in a braising-pan breast upwards, and pour in as much good veal stock as will nearly reach the larded part, start it to boil, skim, then place it over a slow fire to simmer for three hours, keeping some live charcoal upon the cover of the braising-pan, and now and then moistening the breast with a little of the stock; when done take it up, give a nice yellow colour to the bacon on the breast, put it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: prepare six large quenelles de volaille (No. 122), truss and roast four pigeons (No. 959), lard and cook four fine veal sweetbreads (No. 671), arrange them with taste round the turkey, and have ready the following sauce: strain half the stock the turkey was dressed in through a cloth into a stewpan, let it boil, put it on the corner of the stove, skim till you get off every particle of grease, reduce it to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), let boil, keeping it stirred till becoming a thickish demi-glace, add two dozen cockscombs, and a teaspoonful of sugar, with a little cayenne and salt if required, pour it in the dish but not over the garniture, and serve. Attelets of cockscombs and truffles are sometimes stuck in the breast, but it is an impediment to the carving, and it looks as well without.

No. 512. Turkey à la Chipolata.

Although this dish has been degusted by our great great grandfathers, and has been for upwards of a century one of the strongest pillars of the art, I shall here describe it, as an old proverb justly reminds me that a good thing can never get old. Truss the turkey as for boiling, and to modernize it, lard neatly the right breast, roast thirty good chesnuts which mix in a basin with one pound of sausage-meat highly seasoned, stuff the breast of the turkey with it, and braise as in the last article, when done place it upon your dish, and have ready the following ragout: cut two pounds of lean bacon in long square pieces about the size of walnuts, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, put two ounces of butter in a middling-sized stewpan, with the bacon, fry till becoming rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add by degrees three pints of good white stock, with a quart of white sauce, stir over the fire till boiling, then put in forty button onions, twenty fine heads of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves; boil altogether, and when the onions are done take them with the mushrooms and bacon out of the sauce with a colander spoon, put them into a clean stewpan, with thirty chestnuts roasted white, and eight sausages broiled, each one cut in three, reduce the sauce, keeping it stirred till it becomes the thickness of brown sauce, previously having simmered, and skimmed off all the grease, pass the sauce through a tammie upon the other ingredients, make all hot together, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and pour over and round the turkey (except over the breast), which serve very hot. The old style used to be brown, in that case substitute brown sauce for white and omit the liaison.

No. 513. Small Turkey à la Duchesse.

Procure a small nice turkey, truss it as for boiling, and roast it in vegetables as usual, keeping it quite white, place it upon your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress twenty-five quenelles (No. 120), and twelve slices of tongue (cut in the same shape as the quenelles), have ready boiled very green some French beans cut in diamond shapes, which sprinkle over the breast of the turkey, and sauce over with a purée de concombres (No. 105).

No. 514. Poularde à l’Ambassadrice.

Procure a nice white poularde, cut it open down the back, and bone it without breaking the skin, make two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix six large French truffles cut in slices, spread the forcemeat half an inch in thickness upon the inside of the poularde, then have ready boiled and nicely trimmed a small ox tongue, cover it with the forcemeat, fold a slice of fat bacon round, and put it in the middle of the poularde, which roll up and sew from end to end, fold the poularde in slices of fat bacon, and tie it up in a cloth, have ready prepared some vegetables of all kinds cut in slices, put them in a convenient-sized stewpan, lay the poularde upon them, the breast downwards, but first moisten the vegetables with a little salad oil, add half a pint of Madeira wine, and sufficient white broth to cover the poularde, set on a sharp fire to boil, skim, and let it simmer for three hours, prepare the following garniture: braise two spring chickens (trussed as for boiling) three quarters of an hour in the braise with the poularde, have ready prepared a croustade as represented in the design, upon which place a larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, place a fine cockscomb and a large truffle upon a silver attelet, and run it through the sweetbread, sticking it upright in the croustade, then take the poularde out of the cloth, take off the bacon, pull out the string it was sewed up with, dry it with a cloth, and place it upon your dish with the garniture arranged tastefully around it; have ready the following sauce: chop half a pottle of fresh mushrooms very fine, put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and the juice of half a lemon, boil over a sharp fire five minutes, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), with one of the braise, let boil, keeping it stirred, until it adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, adding a few spoonfuls of white broth if too thick, season with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt, cut a few very black truffles in slices, and chop a couple very fine, place them on a plate in the hot closet ten minutes; put your sauce again on the fire, and when boiling add a gill of whipped cream, pour the sauce over the poularde and chickens, lay the slices of truffles here and there upon them, and sprinkle the chopped truffles lightly over, the blackness of the truffles contrasting with the whiteness of the sauce has a pleasing effect; serve directly you have poured the sauce and sprinkled the truffles over. The bones being taken out of the poularde they must be carved crosswise, thus carving through tongue and all.

No. 515. Poulardes en Diadème.

Make a croustade representing a diadem, stick three silver attelets upon it, on which you have stuck a crawfish, a large truffle, and a large quenelle, roast two poulardes quite white in vegetables, and have an ox tongue nicely boiled and trimmed, place them on the dish with their tails to the croustade and the tongue between; upon the root of the tongue and at the end of each poularde place a nice larded sweetbread well cooked and glazed (or a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress alternately truffles and fine cockscombs, previously dressed (No. 128); have ready the following sauce: peel four middling-sized cucumbers, mince and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, two chopped eschalots, and a little powdered sugar, pass the whole over a slow fire, and stew them gently half an hour, or till quite tender, then mix in half an ounce of flour, add two quarts of white sauce (No. 7), which moisten with a pint of white broth, let boil till it adheres to the spoon, stirring the whole time, rub through a tammie and put it into a clean stewpan, place over the fire, and when boiling add a gill of cream and two pats of butter; season with the juice of a lemon, a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes and cockscombs, glaze the tongue, truffles, and sweetbreads and serve immediately; do not pour the sauce over until quite ready to serve.

No. 516. Poulardes à la Vicomtesse.

Make a croustade as represented in the plate (fig. 5), roast two poulardes in vegetables as in the last; place the croustade in the middle of the dish, and upon each gradation of it stick an attelet, upon which you have placed two plover’s eggs warmed in stock; place the poulardes on the dish breast to breast, and at the tail of each lay three larded lambs’ sweetbreads (No. 671), make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress slices of cooked ham warmed in stock, and cut in the shape of fillets of fowls; have ready prepared the following sauce: cut into thin slices a little carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and parsley, pass them over a brisk fire until lightly browned, add four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one ditto of common vinegar, let boil, add two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), and one of consommé, boil it twenty minutes, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; boil altogether till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little salt and pepper if required, sauce over the poulardes; glaze the pieces of ham and serve immediately.

No. 517. Poulardes à la Jeanne d’Arc.

Roast the poulardes in vegetables as before, and dress them with croustade, garniture, and sauce as described in fillet of beef à la Jeanne d’Arc (No. 418).

No. 518. Poulardes à la Jeune Princesse.

Bone two nice poulardes as for poularde à l’ambassadrice (No. 514), lay them on a cloth, have ready prepared four pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), spread some half an inch in thickness over the inside of the poulardes; have ready boiled a Russian tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise, trim each half, lay one upon the middle of each poularde, cut twelve pieces of fat bacon four inches in length and the thickness of your finger, lay three pieces upon each side of the tongue at equal distances apart, and between each piece lay rows of small very green gherkins, season with a little salt and pepper, cover with a little more of the forcemeat, roll and sew up the poulardes, tie them in cloths and braise two hours, as directed for poulardes à l’ambassadrice; when done take them out of the cloths, pull out the packthread you sewed them up with, dress them on your dish in a slanting direction, make a border of mashed potatoes round, have ready twenty small croustades de beurre à la purée de volaille (No. 405), which dress upon the mashed potatoes at equal distances apart, and upon the top of each place a plover’s egg (from which you have peeled off all the shell) warmed in broth, between each croustade lay small bunches of asparagus (previously boiled), cut an inch and a half in length, and six or eight in a bunch; have ready the following sauce: put three quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and one of white stock in a stewpan, the sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms, place it over the fire, keep stirring, reduce to two-thirds, add a gill of whipped cream, season with a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the poulardes, and upon the breast of each sprinkle a few heads of sprue grass nicely boiled and cut very small; in carving they must be cut across, it will resemble marble.

No. 519. Poulardes à la Financière.

Roast two poulardes in vegetables as usual; have ready boiled two ox tongues, trim them, nicely cutting off part of the tip; when the poulardes are done dress them up on your dish tail to tail, dress the two tongues crosswise, that is, the tips of the tongues touching the tails of the poulardes, have a very fine larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed, which place in the centre (this way of dishing them is very simple but very elegant); have ready the following ragout: put twenty dressed cockscombs, twenty heads of mushrooms, four truffles cut in slices, twelve pieces of sweetbread the size of half-crowns (well blanched), and twenty small quenelles (No. 120), in a stewpan, in another stewpan put two glasses of sherry, half an ounce of glaze, a little cayenne pepper, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half over a good fire, then add three quarts of espagnole or brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), boil and skim, reduce, keeping it stirred till it becomes a good demi-glace and adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into the stewpan containing the garniture, add a little powdered sugar, make all hot together, pour over and round the poulardes, glaze the tongues and serve.

No. 520. Poulardes à la Warsovienne.

Roast two large poulardes in vegetables, and let them get cold, then take all the meat from the breast, but be careful to leave a rim half an inch in thickness, cut up the flesh in small dice, put it into a stewpan with fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), two truffles cut in slices, and twelve pieces of stewed cucumber (No. 103); season with a little sugar, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg; stir all very gently over the fire (being careful not to break the pieces of cucumber), when it boils add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two spoonfuls of cream, stir them in quickly; have ready warmed in stock the carcasses of the poulardes, place the mince in the breasts, egg over, and bread-crumb round the rims, place them in the oven twenty minutes to set, then dress them breast to breast on your dish; poach twelve plovers’ eggs very nicely, lay six upon each poularde, that is, three upon each side of the breast to form a diamond, then place a small larded lamb’s sweetbread upon the top between the two poulardes and in the centre of the eggs, place a fine cauliflower on each side, and sauce over with a sauce béchamel, or maître d’hôtel (No. 43); glaze the sweetbread and serve.

No. 521. Poulardes aux légumes printaniers.

Roast two poulardes in vegetables as before, then with a sharp knife turn forty young carrots and forty young turnips, keeping them in their shape as much as possible, wash and place them in separate stewpans, with a pint of veal stock and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil until the stock is reduced to glaze, by which time they will be well done, place them in a bain marie to keep hot, peel also forty young onions the same size as your turnips, butter a sauté-pan, put in half an ounce of sugar (sifted), over which place the onions, cover with veal stock and let them stew until the stock forms a thickish glaze, place them in the hot closet until wanted, then take up the poulardes, dress tail to tail on your dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round, and at each end place a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled, then place alternately an onion and a turnip with a carrot upon the top between, making a pyramid in the middle of the border on each side; for sauce put the glaze from the vegetables and onions into a stewpan together, boil and skim off all the butter, add two quarts of brown sauce, reduce quickly, keeping it stirred all the time, until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little salt if required; pour the sauce over the whole and serve.

No. 522. Poulardes aux légumes verts.

Roast the poulardes in vegetables as usual, then take ten large turnips, cut each in halves exactly in the centre, peel them thin without leaving the marks of the knife, and scoop out the centres to form them into cups, with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown-piece, cut twenty pieces of turnip one inch in thickness to form stands, stew them nicely in stock as in the last, but not too much done, and place them in the bain marie till ready to serve, then place a border of mashed potatoes round the interior of the dish, leaving sufficient room for your poulardes, and at each end stick a croustade of bread cut in cups but larger than those of turnips, place the turnip cups upon their stands at equal distances apart upon the mashed potatoes, place a nice head of cauliflower upon each croustade, have ready boiled some very young peas and heads of asparagus, fill the cups alternately with each, place your poulardes in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) and a pint of white stock in a stewpan, with the glaze from the turnips, reduce to two-thirds, skim, season with a little salt and sugar, finish with a gill of cream, sauce all over, but lightly over the vegetables, and serve.

Capons may of course be dressed in the same manner as poulardes for removes, but to give a second series would only be a useless repetition.

No. 523. Petits Poulets à la Warenzorf.

Procure four very nice spring chickens trussed as for boiling, roast them in vegetables, as described (No. 417), have also ready boiled and nicely trimmed two deer tongues, place one at each end of the dish making the tips meet in the centre, place a chicken at each corner, its tail in the centre, and between each lay a bunch of fine boiled asparagus; you have made a round fluted croustade of bread about four inches high, and the same in diameter, ornament it on the top with rings the size of a shilling, fried very white, and scoop out the middle of the croustade to form a cup; place it in the centre of your dish, with some fine heads of asparagus cut about four inches in length standing upright in it, glaze the tongues nicely, have two quarts of sauce purée d’asperges (No. 102) ready, which pour over the chickens and serve very hot.

No. 524. Petits Poulets à la Périgord à blanc.

Scrape four ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two bay-leaves, three cloves, and a blade of mace, set over the fire to melt, and when quite hot take out the spice and bay-leaves, add ten large truffles cut in slices, and four chopped very fine, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7), place it over the fire to reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming very thick, finish with two yolks of eggs and place it on a dish to cool; procure four nice spring chickens, detach the skin from the breasts without breaking, force the above preparation under the skins, sew the skin down (but not too tight, or it would burst in roasting), roast them in vegetables as usual; have ready a croustade in the form of a vase, which place in the centre of your dish filled with fine truffles warmed in strong stock, dress the chickens with taste around it, first draining them upon a cloth, glaze lightly, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with a pint of good veal broth, place it on the fire and when boiling add six large French truffles cut in thin slices, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming thickish, add half a gill of whipped cream; pour the sauce round the chickens and serve very hot.

No. 525. Petits Poulets à la Macédoine de légumes.

Procure four spring chickens, roast them in vegetables, but just before they are done take off all the paper and vegetables and let them get a nice gold colour; prepare and poach a piece of forcemeat (No. 120) four inches square, and another two inches square, place the smaller one upon the larger in the centre of the dish, dress the chickens by placing the tails upon the forcemeat and the breasts towards the edges of the dish; you have previously peeled and turned twelve Jerusalem artichokes in the shape of pears, and stewed in white stock, place three at the breast of each chicken, and a piece of boiled cauliflower between each at the tail, build some Brussels sprouts pyramidically at the top, and sauce with macédoine de légumes à brun (No. 99).

Fowls may be dressed in the same manner as the chickens and are used when chickens cannot be obtained.

No. 526. Petits Poulets à l’Indienne.

Put one pound of rice nicely boiled (No. 129) in a basin with a quarter of a pound of suet, a little pepper, salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of currie powder, and three or four eggs, mix all well together, then have four spring chickens untrussed, fill them with the above, and truss them as for boiling, stew them one hour gently in a braise as No. 514, make a round croustade of the form of a cup, five inches high, fill with some beautiful white rice in pyramid, with seven or eight mild Indian pickles interspersed, dress the chickens round the croustade, with a piece of boiled bacon three inches long and two broad between each, pour about two quarts of sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) over, and serve very hot.

No. 527. Petits Poulets au jus d’estragon.

Roast three spring chickens in vegetables, the same as for petits poulets à la macédoine de légumes, dress them on your dish, and pour a sauce au jus d’estragon (No. 10) round.

No. 528. Petits Poulets à la Marie Stuart.

Procure four spring chickens trussed as for boiling, detach carefully part of the skin from the breasts, and lay slices of French truffles under the skin, shaping a heart upon the breasts of each, prepare half a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), divide it in four parts, and place one on the top of the truffles under the skin of each breast, covering with the skin, then put half a pound of butter, two onions, two bay-leaves, and two wine-glasses of pale brandy, with a little stock into a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens, place a sheet of buttered paper over, put on the cover, place it ten minutes over a sharp fire, then set in a moderate oven for an hour, when done take out the string, lay them on a clean cloth to drain; have ready a croustade in the form of a pyramid, which place in the centre of your dish entirely enveloped with mashed potatoes half an inch in thickness; have ready some fine heads of asparagus boiled very green, and cut about an inch in length, stick them upon the pyramid with a small nice white head of cauliflower at the top, dish your chickens round and sauce with a thin purée of truffles (No. 53) round them.

No. 529. Petits Poussins à la Chanoinaise.

Have ready three parts roasted in vegetables six very young spring chickens trussed as for boiling, cover them all over with forcemeat (No. 120), throw some chopped truffles and ham lightly over, and pat them into a flat stewpan just covered with some good veal stock, set them in a moderate oven twenty minutes, with the cover over, and when done dress them at the corners of the dish upon a little mashed potatoes, place a small croustade in the centre, upon which place a nicely-cooked larded sweetbread, glaze well, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, with a little sugar, and when boiling have ready a tongue (ready boiled) cut in slices the size of half-a-crown-piece, and six large truffles also sliced, put them into the sauce, and when very hot pour into your dish, but not over the chickens; serve very hot.

No. 530. Petits Poulets à la Printaniere.

Roast four spring chickens in vegetables, have ready some young carrots, turnips, and onions, stewed as directed (No. 428); make a small border of mashed potatoes round the dish, dress the vegetables with taste upon it, variegating them with peas or asparagus heads boiled very green, dress the chickens in the centre and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce well over the fire, keeping it stirred, add half a teaspoonful of sugar and the glaze from the vegetables, reduce again till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pour over the chickens and vegetables, and serve very hot.

No. 531. Petits Poussins à la Tartare.

Procure four very young spring chickens, not trussed, cut off the feet below the joints, break the bone in each leg, then cut an incision in the thigh of the chicken and turn the legs into it, cut the chickens open down the back-bone, and beat them flat, fry five minutes in butter in a sauté-pan, season with a little pepper and salt, egg and bread-crumb them all over, lay them on a gridiron over a moderate fire, and broil a nice light-brown colour; for sauce put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and six of consommé in a stewpan, and when it has boiled ten minutes add ten spoonfuls of sauce tartare (No. 38), stir altogether till quite hot, but do not let it boil, pour it on your dish, garnish the edges of the dish with slices of Indian pickle, dress the chickens upon the sauce and serve directly; the sauce tartare may also be served cold with the chickens glazed and served hot upon it.

No. 532. Petits Poussins à la Maréchal.

Truss and broil four chickens precisely as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a stewpan, with a small piece of glaze, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce ten minutes until forming a demi-glace, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the chickens, dish them upon the sauce and serve.

No. 533. Goose à la Chipolata.

Truss your goose nicely, and lard the breast (with lardons of fat bacon three inches long) here and there slantwise, then proceed exactly as for turkey à la chipolata (No. 512).

No. 534. Goose stuffed with chesnuts.

Procure a fine goose, truss it, chop the liver very fine, cut an onion in small dice, put them in a stewpan, with the liver, and a quarter of a pound of scraped fat bacon, pass them over a slow fire for ten minutes or a little longer, have ready roasted and peeled thirty fine chesnuts, put them in the stewpan, with two bay-leaves, let them stew slowly over the fire half an hour, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, and when nearly cold stuff the inside of the goose, which sew up at both ends; roast an hour and a half in vegetables, and just before it is done take away the paper and vegetables and let it get a nice light-brown colour, dress on a dish and serve a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12), in which you have introduced two tablespoonfuls of apple jelly; a little sage may be added to the above preparation if approved of.

No. 535. Goose à la Portugaise.

Prepare your goose, then peel four Portugal onions, cut them in thin slices and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter; let them simmer over a slow fire until quite tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and sugar, with half a pint of white sauce (No. 7); boil altogether twenty minutes, then stir in the yolks of two eggs and put it out on a dish to cool, stuff the goose with it, which roast as in the last, dress upon your dish with ten stewed Portugal onions and sauce as directed for stewed rump of beef à la Portugaise (No. 431).

No. 536. Ducklings aux olives.

Roast four small ducklings in vegetables; have ready a croustade cut in the shape of a vase, set it on a few mashed potatoes in the centre of the dish, dress the ducklings with their tails towards it, and have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, when it boils have ready turned sixty French olives, which throw into it, season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, when very hot put the olives on the top of the croustade, pour the sauce over and serve directly.

No. 537. Ducklings au jus d’orange.

Roast four ducklings as in the previous article, dress a croustade in the centre of the dish, upon which place a fine Seville orange with a silver attelet through it, dress the ducklings round, and serve with a jus d’orange sauce (No. 17).

No. 538. Ducklings aux légumes printaniers.

Roast them as above, and serve as directed for the poulardes (No. 521).

No. 539. Ducklings à la Chartre.

Roast your ducklings as before, have ready fifty young turnips turned in the shape of pears, put half an ounce of sifted sugar into a convenient-sized stewpan, set over the fire, and when it melts and assumes a brownish tinge add half a pound of butter and the turnips, toss them over every now and then, and when about three parts done and a light-brown colour turn them out on a cloth to drain the butter from them, likewise drain all the butter from the stewpan, put your turnips again into it, with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of white stock, and a bunch of parsley, boil altogether ten minutes, or till the sauce adheres to the spoon, dress a croustade in the form of a vase in the centre of the dish, dress the ducklings round, take the parsley from the sauce, dress some of the turnips with taste upon the croustade and the remainder between each duckling; pour the sauce round and serve.

No. 540. Haunch of Venison.

May be decidedly called the second great pedestal; turtle soup and haunch of venison certainly being the two great pedestals, or Gog and Magog of English cookery. It is appreciated from the independent citizen to the throne; for where is there a citizen of taste, a man of wealth, or a gourmet, who does not pay due homage to this delicious and recherché joint, which ever has and ever will be in vogue; but even after all that nature has done in point of flavour, should it fall into the hands of some inexperienced person to dress, and be too much done, its appearance and flavour would be entirely spoilt, its delicious and delicate fat melted, and the gravy lost; of the two it would be preferred underdone, but that is very bad and hardly excusable, when it requires nothing but attention to serve this glorious dish in perfection.

A good haunch of venison weighing from about twenty to twenty-five pounds will take from three to four hours roasting before a good solid fire; trim the haunch by cutting off part of the knuckle and sawing off the chine bone, fold the flap over, then envelope it in a flour and water paste rather stiff, and an inch thick, tie it up in strong paper, four sheets in thickness, place it in your cradle spit so that it will turn quite even, place it at first very close to the fire until the paste is well crusted, pouring a few ladlefuls of hot dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper catching fire, then put it rather further from the fire, which must be quite clear, solid, and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat on every part of the venison; when it has roasted the above time take it up, remove it from the paste and paper, run a thin skewer into the thickest part to ascertain if done, if it resists the skewer it is not done, and must be tied up and put down again, but if the fire is good that time will sufficiently cook it, glaze the top well, salamander until a little brown, put a frill upon the knuckle, and serve very hot with plenty of plain boiled French beans separate. For the mode of carving a haunch of venison, see preface.

No. 541. Haunch of Doe Venison à la Corinthienne.

Trim your haunch and lard the fillet of the loin and the leg as you would a fricandeau, put it for a week in a marinade (No. 426), turning it over every other day; place it on a spit, tied up in oiled paper, and roast it two hours, but just before taking up, take off all the paper, to give a nice colour; dress it on your dish with a frill at the knuckle, and have ready the following sauce: well wash and pick half a pound of fine currants, soak them in water two hours, dry them well on a sieve, put half a pint of the marinade through a sieve into a stewpan, with two glasses of port wine, and two chopped eschalots, reduce to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add your currants, season with a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, pour the sauce round the haunch, and serve.

No. 542. Necks of Doe Venison à la Corinthienne.

Trim two necks of venison by cutting out the shoulders, not too deep, cut the breast off rather narrow, slip your knife between the rib bones and the flesh to half way up, saw off the bones, skewer the flap over, detach the chine bones from the flesh, saw them off, and lard the fillets; put them in marinade (No. 426) one day (they must be well covered), tie them up in oiled paper, and roast for one hour; when done glaze and salamander the tops, dress them fillet to fillet on your dish, and sauce the same as for haunch à la Corinthienne.

No. 543. Necks of Venison à la Bohémienne.

Proceed as above, and sauce as for fillet of beef à la Bohémienne (No. 426.)

No. 544. Faisans à la Corsaire.

Procure three young pheasants, truss them as for boiling, chop the livers very fine, and put them into a basin with a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, one pound of bread-crumbs, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and thyme; mix the whole well together with four eggs, put in a mortar, pound it well, stuff the birds with it, and roast them in vegetables; make a croustade shaped like the bows of a ship, dress it at the head of the dish, make a large quenelle (No. 120), which ornament with truffles to fancy; run a silver attelet through it lengthwise, and stick it at the top of the croustade, dress the pheasants on the dish, the tails of two of them touching the croustade, and the other between, with its breast towards the end of the dish; have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of the sauce à l’essence de gibier (No. 60) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white broth; reduce till it adheres to the spoon, then add twenty dressed cockscombs and twenty heads of mushrooms; sauce over the pheasants and serve.

No. 545. Faisans à la Garde Chasse.

Procure four very young hen pheasants, truss them for roasting, merely cut off the tips of the claws, make a small incision in the leg at the knuckles, and truss them with their claws resting on their thighs, and their knuckles over their tails; stuff them with the same preparation as in the last, but adding a glass of brandy and half a gill of double cream; put them on your spit, have ready washed and cut from the roots a few good handfuls of heather from the mountain, surround the birds with it, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them three quarters of an hour, take them up, and dress them on your dish in the form of a cross; have four large quenelles of game (No. 123), and place one between each pheasant; have ready the following sauce: put two glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce of glaze; boil three minutes, then add a quart of the sauce à l’essence de gibier (No. 60); boil altogether ten minutes, skim, add two ounces of fresh butter, stir it in with a wooden spoon; when quite melted pour the sauce over the birds, and serve.

No. 546. Faisans truffés à la Piémontaise.

Procure four young pheasants as above, but they must be quite fresh, stuff the breasts of them with half a pound of truffles prepared as for poularde à la Périgord (No. 524), only using half oil and half bacon, and adding half a clove of garlic scraped; show as much truffles as possible under the skin; they must be kept in that way a week or more (according to the weather), before they are fit for dressing; roast nearly an hour in oiled paper of a light gold colour, dress upon your dish in the form of a cross, have ready the following sauce: put two quarts of clear aspic (No. 1360) in a stewpan, reduce twenty minutes, cut six raw or preserved truffles in slices, put them into the aspic with a glass of champagne, hock, or madeira, and a little sugar; stew them twenty minutes, sauce over your birds, and serve very hot.

No. 547. Faisans à l’Extravagante.

This is a very elegant remove, and can be made where woodcocks are plentiful, but to the economiser it would appear a most extravagant extravaganza; procure two large pheasants and six woodcocks, fillet the woodcocks and cut each fillet in halves lengthwise, put two ounces of scraped bacon in a sautépan with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots and half a pottle of chopped mushrooms; lay the fillets over them, season with pepper and salt, set them over the fire five minutes, turn the fillets, set them again on the fire five minutes longer, add twenty tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), half a pound of cockscombs previously cooked, a little grated nutmeg, and half a spoonful of sugar; it must be rather highly seasoned; add three yolks of eggs, stir a minute over the fire till the egg sets, then put it on a dish to cool; when firm divide it in two, and stuff the pheasants with it, having previously extracted all the breast bone, sew the skin of the neck over on the back, but do not draw it too tight, or it would burst on the breast; surround with fat bacon, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them one hour, but just before they are done take off the paper and bacon; shake flour over, and they will become brown and crisp; have ready prepared the following sauce: put the remainder of the woodcocks in a stewpan, with two glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, two eschalots (cut in slices), a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, two cloves, and half a blade of mace, let simmer a quarter of an hour, add a quart of brown sauce, let the whole boil together twenty minutes at the corner of the stove, take out the pieces of woodcock, and pass the sauce through a tammie into a clean stewpan, take the flesh and trails of the woodcocks from the bones, which pound well in the mortar, then put it in the sauce, boil it up again, season with a little pepper, salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, and rub it through a tammie with two wooden spoons, the sauce is then ready; for garniture cut twenty-four pieces of bread in the form of hearts, cover them on one side with forcemeat (No. 123) rather thick in the middle, and fix a cockscomb ready dressed upon each; butter a sauté-pan, and lay them in it; cover them over with a sheet of buttered paper, and place them half an hour in a moderate oven; make a border of forcemeat (No. 120), poached in pieces an inch broad and half an inch thick, which lay on your dish, upon which dress them, place the pheasants in the centre, pour the sauce round, glaze the birds and cockscombs, and serve.

The way to carve pheasants dressed this way is as follows: the breast being free from bone, detach the legs with a knife, and cut the breast in slices in a slanting direction; the scraped bacon will escape in roasting, keeping the birds moist; they will not cut greasy, but will have a marbled appearance like gallantine.

No. 548. Grouse à la Rob Roy.

Grouse are the most favourite birds in this country, and certainly the most welcome; they make their first appearance on the 12th of August, a time when most delicate palates are fatigued with domestic volatile productions, at that period they are very properly used for roasts only; but when more plentiful they are very excellent dressed in the manners I have here described, though seldom or ever used for removes; I have, for the sake of variety which is said to be charming, given a few new methods. Pick, draw, and truss four grouse, make a stuffing like for the pheasants (No. 544), using the liver of the grouse, stuff and place them on the spit, surrounded with fat bacon and sprigs of heather, moistened with a glass of whiskey, tie them up in paper and roast three quarters of an hour, dress on a dish in the form of a cross, and have ready the following sauce: put a quart of good melted butter in a stewpan on the fire, and just as it begins to boil, add a quarter of a pound of butter; stir the sauce till the butter is melted, season rather high, and pour over your birds; (the sauce must be rather thick, but not too thick;) under each bird place a piece of toasted bread well glazed; serve very hot.

No. 549. Grouse à la Corsaire.

See Faisan (No. 544).

No. 550. Grouse à la Piémontaise.

See Faisan (No. 546).

No. 551. Grouse à la Garde Chasse.

See Faisans (No. 545).

Of Black Cocks and Grey Hens.

These birds are a similar flavour to the grouse, only much larger, and may be dressed just in the same manner, only two cocks will be sufficient for a remove of ten or twelve persons if well garnished with quenelles, cockscombs, mushrooms, truffles, &c.

No. 552. Hare à la Macgregor.

Skin a fine young hare, and truss it as for roasting, stuff with a forcemeat made of the liver (see faisan à la corsaire, No. 544), put it on the spit, rub well with oil, and while roasting sprinkle a little flour over now and then; have ready the fillets of three other hares skinned and nicely larded, put some butter in a sauté-pan, and fry them gently of light brown colour, rather underdone; cut each fillet in halves, and have twelve pieces of toasted bread cut in the form of hearts, of the same size as the fillets; dress them alternately on your dish upon a border of mashed potatoes, dress the hare in the centre, glaze the fillets and bread, and pour a quart of sauce poivrade (No. 33), in which you have introduced a spoonful of mild orange marmalade instead of the currant jelly, over the hare, and serve very hot.

No. 553. Levraut à la Coursière.

Skin and draw two leverets just caught by the dogs, save the blood in a basin, truss them for roasting, lard the fillets, roast half an hour before a quick fire, put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan; when boiling stir quickly with a wooden spoon, and pour in the blood; add a little salt, cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, four pats of butter, and the juice of a lemon; sauce over the leverets and serve immediately.

FLANCS.

Flancs are required in every dinner where there are more than four entrées; they are served upon oval dishes of from eighteen inches in length to nine in width, and require a little depth; for flancs being made dishes, like removes, the dish must contain the sauce. My readers will perceive by the Index that many of them are like the removes; but these I shall merely give references to, my object in placing them with the flancs being to show that by being reduced in size they will do for flancs in large dinners, and also be an assistance in the making of bills of fare.

Flancs are to be made of one or two solid pieces of poultry, game, butcher’s meat, or pastry, and keep everything which is divided into many pieces, as cotelettes, fillets, escalopes, fricassées, salmis, &c., for entrées as much as possible, by doing which you will add more importance to your dinner, and cause more harmony in the arrangement.

No. 554. Fillet of Beef piqué aux légumes printaniers.

Procure a piece of fillet of beef fifteen inches in length, lard, trim, and dress it as directed (No. 417); when ready to serve dress a border of mashed potatoes on your dish; have ready twenty young carrots, twenty young turnips, with twenty small onions, dressed as directed for poulardes (No. 521); dish them upon the mashed potatoes with a small cauliflower nicely boiled at each end of the dish, place your fillet in the centre, glaze it, and sauce with a demi-glace, made also as directed for the poulardes, but half the quantity will be sufficient.

No. 555. Filet de Bœuf au jus de groseilles.

Procure and lard a piece of fillet of beef the same size as in the last, pickle it four or five days, as directed for filet de bœuf (No. 426); when wanted take it from the marinade, dry it, and roast it in paper, but ten minutes before it is done take off the paper to allow it to colour a little; place it on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: run half a pint of the marinade through a sieve into a stewpan, add an ounce of glaze, place it on the fire, reduce it to half, add a quart of brown sauce, and again reduce it till it becomes a clear demi-glace; skim it when required, add half the rind of a lemon, the peelings of a few mushrooms, a little scraped garlic, the size of a pea, and a spoonful of very bright currant jelly; stir it two minutes over the fire, season it rather high, pass it through a tammie, sauce over the fillet, and serve.

No. 556. Fillet of Beef à la Beyrout.

Procure but a piece of fillet the same size as in the last, and proceed as directed (No. 419).

For Filet de Bœuf à la Milanaise,
Do. au jus d’orange, and
Do. au jus de tomates,

see Removes, Nos. 425, 420, 421, merely substituting a piece of the fillet when serving them as flancs.

No. 557. Langue de Bœuf à la Marquise.

Boil a nice ox-tongue three hours, when done take the skin off carefully; by allowing it to get cold, you can cut any design upon it your fancy may dictate, but I prefer sending them plain, merely trimming it. You have previously filleted and dressed three chickens, as described for suprème de volaille, (see No. 808), then make a border of mashed potatoes round your dish, and dress half the fillets of chicken on each side, one upon the other in a slanting direction; have ready dressed four nice larded sweetbreads, place two at each end, and the tongue in the centre, have ready the following sauce: put a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan in which you cooked your fillets of chickens, with twelve spoonfuls of good veal stock, stir it over the fire till it becomes rather thick, then add a gill of cream and a little powdered sugar, mix all well together, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan when hot, sauce over the fillets, glaze the sweetbreads and tongue, and serve very hot.

No. 558. Langue de Bœuf à la Prima Donna.

Boil the tongue as in the last, then have ready twenty-four quenelles of veal (No. 120), dress a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, upon which dress the quenelles, making them go quite round, then have ready the following sauce: put twenty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of veal stock in a stewpan; let it boil ten minutes, then add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), mix it very quick over the fire, and when melted sauce over the quenelles; put a nicely boiled Brussels sprout between each quenelle, glaze the tongue, and serve.

No. 559. Langue de Bœuf à la St. Aulaire.

Cook the tongue as before, and when done fix it on the dish upon mashed potatoes; have ready the following ragout: cut four middling-sized cucumbers into pieces about an inch and a half in length, split each piece in three, take out the seeds from each piece, peel them and trim them at the corners, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, half a spoonful of powdered sugar, and two chopped eschalots; stew the cucumbers very gently till quite tender, but not to break them, then cut the breast of a cooked fowl into slices the size of the pieces of cucumber and add with them; then add a quart of hot bechamel sauce (No. 7) and a little white stock, shake the stewpan over the fire, but do not stir it with a spoon, or you would break the contents; finish with a liaison made from the yolk of one egg, pour it round the tongue, and serve.

No. 560. Langue de Bœuf à la Jardinière.

Cook the tongue as before, fix it in your dish upon mashed potatoes, and serve with a jardiniere sauce (No. 100) round it.

No. 561. Langue de Bœuf à la Milanaise.

Cook as before, and serve with a sauce à la Milanaise (No. 49) under it, to which has been added some fillets of fowl cut the same size as the pieces of macaroni.

Ox-tongues may also be served with sauce piquante (No. 27) or sauce à l’Italienne (No. 30), and they are frequently served as a flanc, quite plain, especially when the opposite flanc is composed of veal or poultry.

No. 562. Westphalia Ham, small.

These hams require to be well soaked in water, and scraped previous to dressing; boil from three to four hours, and when done take off the skin, leaving a little on the knuckle, which you cut as fancy may direct; glaze it nicely, put a paper frill upon the knuckle-bone, and serve it plain, or it may be served with any of the following sauces: poivrade (No. 32), jardinière (No. 100), Milanaise (No. 49), or dressed spinach (No. 1087); but when it is intended to be eaten with a remove of poultry, it is as well served plain.

No. 563. Loin of Veal à la Cambaçéres.

For this see Removes (No. 441), only in this instance substitute the thin end of the loin only, and that not too large.

No. 564. Loin of Veal à la Crèmière.

Procure part of a loin about the size your dish will conveniently hold, place it on a spit and have ready some vegetables of all kinds cut small; lay them on two or three sheets of thickish paper, moisten them with half a pint of cream, tie the veal up in them and roast it two hours, make a border of mashed potatoes round your dish, upon which dress twelve nice poached eggs; take up the veal, clear it from the vegetables, and dress it in the centre; have ready the following sauce: put a quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a little grated nutmeg, salt, and sugar; stir it over a quick fire, boil it ten minutes, then add a gill of cream, the juice of a lemon, and an ounce of fresh butter, pour it over the eggs and veal, and serve; the sauce requires to be rather thick, but if too much so, thin it with a little milk; if sprue grass is in season, a few of the heads boiled, and lard between the eggs, would have a pleasing effect.

For Loins à la purée de céleri,
Do. macédoine de légumes, and
Do. à la Strasbourgienne

See Removes, Nos. 443, 442, and 444.

No. 565. Noix de veau pique au jus.

Procure a very white leg of veal from a cow calf, saw off the knuckle, lay the fillet on the table and cut it open without cutting through the meat, that is cut from the bone in the centre under the udder until you cut through the skin, take out the bone, and lay it out, there will be three separate lumps of meat, the largest of which is the noix (or nut); to cut it out press your hand upon it and with a sharp knife cut down close to the skin, separating it from the skin till it comes to the udder, then bring the knife up, lay the piece upon the table the best side downwards and beat it well, trim it of a nice shape, and lard it with pieces of fat bacon two inches long and slender in proportion, cut off the udder and sew it to the side, put a few slices of bacon in a flat stewpan, with two or three onions cut in slices, half a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, and a sprig of thyme, lay in the noix, add a pint of white broth, then put the lid on the stewpan, and place it in a moderate oven for three hours, occasionally looking at it, taking care that the gravy does not become dry or burnt, if it becomes dry add a little water to moisten it, but not enough to cover the veal, which moisten now and then with the gravy; when done, glaze it nicely, slightly colour it with the salamander if required, and lay it on a dish, keep it hot, then pass the gravy through a tammie into a smaller stewpan, set it on the corner of the fire, skim off all the fat, pour it in your dish, and lay the noix in the last moment of serving, or the fat would run, and give the gravy a bad appearance.

No. 566. Noix de Veau à la Potagère.

Procure and dress a noix de veau as in the last, excepting the udder, which is not required, and you need not be particular about its being the leg of a cow calf; when cooked make a border of mashed potatoes round your dish, upon which dress several pieces of nice cauliflowers, (about the size of eggs,) which you have previously boiled, place the noix in the centre the last thing before serving, and have ready the following sauce: put thirty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with ten of the gravy from the noix, (free from fat,) boil ten minutes, then add half a gill of cream and a little sugar, pour the sauce over the cauliflowers, glaze the noix and serve immediately, throwing a few green peas, well boiled, round.

No. 567. Noix de Veau à la Palestine.

Prepare and dress the noix as in the last, then wash and peel two dozen middling-sized Jerusalem artichokes, give them the shape of pears, boil them in salt and water in which you have put a piece of butter, boil them till tender, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, on which dress the artichokes, the thick part uppermost, scoop a piece out of the top of each, and stick in a nicely-boiled Brussels sprout, place the noix in the centre, glaze it and pour a thin sauce à la purée d’artichaut (No. 90) over the artichokes and serve.

No. 568. Noix de Veau aux légumes nouveaux.

Prepare and dress the noix as in the last, then have prepared twenty young carrots, twenty young turnips, and twenty young onions, prepared as described in the article stewed rump of beef à la Flamande (No. 428), dress them tastefully upon your dish upon a thin border of mashed potatoes, place the noix in the centre and have ready the following sauce: mix the glaze from the vegetables with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of the gravy from the noix, (but quite free from fat,) in a stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce till it becomes a thickish demi-glace, keeping it well skimmed, sauce over the vegetables, glaze the noix and serve.

No. 569. Noix de Veau à la purée de champignons.

Prepare and dress the noix as before, and have ready a sauce à la purée de champignons (No. 54), pour it on your dish, lay the noix over, glaze and serve immediately.

No. 570. Noix de veau à la Prince Albert.

Prepare and dress the noix as before, have likewise ten lambs’ sweetbreads larded and dressed (see No. 746), also ten plovers’ eggs, which peel and warm in white stock, make a thin border of mashed potatoes round your dish, and dress the sweetbreads and plovers’ eggs alternately upon it; place the noix in the centre, place a ring of truffles upon each plover’s egg, and have ready the following sauce: pass the gravy from the noix and sweetbreads through a sieve into a stewpan, set it on the fire, skim off all the fat, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1) and a pint of consommé (No. 134), reduce it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon, and when reduced to a thinnish glaze take it off the fire, add a little sugar, and two pats of butter; glaze the sweetbreads and noix, sauce round and serve immediately.

No. 571. Neck of Veal à la St. Clair.

Trim the best end of a very nice neck of veal, see Removes (No. 451), roast it in vegetables, and give it a nice gold colour; make a border of mashed potatoes round your dish, upon which dress a number of slices of fried ham, (each cut in the shape of a long heart,) to form a crown, place the veal in the centre, and pour some very thin tomata sauce (No. 37) (in which you have mixed half an ounce of anchovy butter) round, and serve. For neck of veal à la purée de celeri, ditto à la macédoine de légumes, and ditto à la crèmière, (see Nos. 451, 422 and 564.)

No. 572. Calf’s Head à la Constantine.

Cook half a calf’s head as directed (No. 459), and when done lay it on a dish with another dish upon it, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, when cold cut twelve nice oval pieces out of it, egg each piece over with a paste-brush, and throw it into bread-crumbs mixed with chopped lean ham; set them in the oven and when quite hot and of a nice gold colour dress them in a crown round your dish upon a border of mashed potatoes, place the brains at each end of the dish, and have ready the following sauce: make a quart of sauce au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), well seasoned, add to it twenty pickled mushrooms and forty very small white pickled onions, warm them five minutes in the sauce, then pour the sauce in the centre, glaze the pieces of calf’s head and serve very hot. For calf’s head en tortue, ditto à la Hollandaise, and ditto à l’amiral, see Nos. 462, 459 and 463.

No. 573. Neck of Mutton demi Provençale.

Prepare and braise a neck of mutton as described for the Removes, see that it is not too fat; you have prepared a purée of onions like for the cotelettes (see No. 701), spread some over the neck about a quarter of an inch thick, egg and bread-crumb it lightly, then put it in a hot oven twenty minutes, if not sufficiently coloured pass the salamander over it, then have ready the following sauce: put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half the quantity of good stock, reduce it over the fire till it comes to a nice demi-glace, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas, dress the neck in a dish and pour the sauce over; serve very hot; a little seasoning may be added to the sauce if required.

No. 574. Neck of Mutton à la Soubise.

Prepare, lard, and braise a neck of mutton as described in the Removes (No. 482), when done glaze it well, pass the salamander over, place it in your dish, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) poured round it.

No. 575. Neck of Mutton à l’Algérienne.

Procure a large neck of mutton, trim it as before, and lard the lean part with fine cut bacon, like for the noix de veau, make two quarts of marinade (see fillet of beef à la Bohémienne, No. 426), and lay the neck in it for three days, then run a skewer through it and fix it on your spit, roast it about an hour, giving it a very good colour; have ready the following sauce: strain half a pint of the marinade into a stewpan, add a pint of brown sauce and a small piece of glaze, reduce it till forming a thickish demi-glace; you have previously soaked twenty very nice French plums in boiling water twenty minutes, drain them on a sieve, and when dry throw them into the sauce, season with a little salt and cayenne pepper, pour the sauce in your dish, dress the neck upon it and serve.

No. 576. Neck of Mutton à la Portugaise.

Prepare, lard, and braise a neck of mutton as before, then peel six middling-sized Portugal onions, blanch them twenty minutes in boiling water, then lay them on a cloth to drain, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a flat stewpan, let it melt, lay in the onions, add one ounce of sugar, and a little salt, and just cover them with a little white stock, let them simmer gently for one hour or more until quite tender, take them out carefully, lay on a cloth, cut them in halves, dress in a border round the dish, and lay the neck in the centre, then take the butter from the stock the onions were stewed in, put half a pint of it in a stewpan, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of stock, reduce it till it becomes again thickish, and pour it over the onions round the mutton, which glaze and serve very hot.

For neck of mutton à la légumière, ditto à la Brétonne, and ditto à la Chartre, see Removes, Nos. 482, 483, and 486.

No. 577. Loin of Mutton en Carbonade.

Bone a loin of mutton carefully, leaving the small fillet attached, lard it well with pieces of lean ham and fat bacon, season with chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, pepper and salt, roll it up as tight as possible, previously putting in some forcemeat (No. 120), tie it up with string, put in a stewpan, with some white stock and vegetables, let it stew gently two hours and a half, then take it up, cut off the string, trim it at each end, glaze the top, pass the salamander over to give it a nice colour, and serve with dressed spinach (No. 1088), sauce Soubise (No. 47), or sauce piquante (No. 27).

No. 578. Carbonade de Mouton à la Bourginotte.

Prepare a loin of mutton as in the last, then peel one hundred button onions, put half an ounce of pounded sugar in a stewpan, set it over the fire and as soon as it is melted add half an ounce of butter and the onions, place them over a slow fire, tossing them every now and then, when getting tender add a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of white stock, with a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, set it on the fire till the onions are quite done, take them out with a colander spoon and put them in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce till it becomes rather thickish, pass it through a tammie upon the onions, warm altogether, pour the sauce in your dish, place the carbonade in the centre, which glaze and serve very hot.

For breast of mutton à la Soubise, sauce piquante, tomate, &c., see Removes No. 487.

No. 579. Saddle of Lamb à la Bonne Fermière.

Procure a very small saddle of very white lamb, trim it according to the size of your dish, roast it in vegetables as described in the Removes (No. 417), then boil two lambs’ frys in water five minutes, drain it on a sieve, egg and bread-crumb it, and fry in very hot lard, set the saddle in the centre of your dish, dress the fry around it, and garnish with parsley fried nice and crisp, put a quart of consommé in a stewpan, let it reduce to more than half, add a little sugar and chopped mint, and pour it in the dish but not over the fry.

For saddle of lamb aux petits pois, ditto à la Sévigné, ditto à la menagère, and ditto demi Provençale, see Removes Nos. 488, 489, 492, and 491.

No. 580. Shoulder of Lamb farci aux truffles.

Take the blade bone carefully out of a shoulder of lamb without bursting the skin, lard the under part with pieces of fat bacon about an inch and a half long and a quarter of an inch in thickness, lay it upon a cloth, season it, and spread some forcemeat about an inch in thickness down the centre in a line with the knuckle, cut some long strips of cooked ham or tongue and lay upon it, with some truffles cut in as long strips as possible, then roll the flaps over and sew it up, giving a nice oval appearance, tie it up in a cloth and put it in a stewpan, with two large onions, two carrots, two turnips, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, some trimmings of veal, beef, or mutton, cover the whole with some white stock (or water, but then you must put more meat), let it simmer for three hours, skim it well, add half a pint of bucellas wine, take up the lamb, untie it, pull out all the string, drain upon a cloth, lay it on your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle bone, keep hot, and prepare the following sauce: take one quart of the stock it was cooked in, which pass through a tammie into a stewpan, take off all the grease, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), reduce it to a demi glaze, season with a little sugar and salt if required, pour it round the lamb and serve very hot; to carve it cut it in slices crosswise, it will have a marbled appearance.

No. 581. Shoulder of Lamb farci à la Financière.

Proceed exactly as in the last, but serve with a ragout financière (No. 50) instead of the sauce.

No. 582. Shoulder of Lamb farci à la purée de pois vert.

Proceed as before, but omit the truffles, and serve with a purée of green peas (No. 86).

No. 583. Shoulder of Lamb à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Plain roast a small shoulder of lamb, then put a gill of good cream in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it till melted and pour it over the lamb.

No. 584. Neck of Lamb aux légumes printaniers.

Trim a nice white neck of lamb in the manner described for mutton (No. 482), keep it nice and square, run a skewer through and roast it with vegetables, make a border of young vegetables on your dish prepared as for fillet of beef (No. 554), dish the lamb in the centre, sauce over the vegetables, and serve sauce the same as for the filet de bœuf.

No. 585. Neck of Lamb aux petits pois.

Proceed as in the last, when roasted prepare a quart of peas as directed (No. 84), pour them on your dish and dress the lamb upon it.

No. 586. Neck of Lamb à la Bruxellaise.

Trim and braise a neck of lamb as before, keeping it as white as possible, make a very nice green purée of Brussels sprouts (as directed No. 81), pour the purée in your dish and dress the lamb upon it.

No. 587. Neck of Lamb à la Douairière.

Trim and braise a neck of lamb as above, have twelve lambs’ sweetbreads, six hearts, and six throats, blanch them, lard the six heart-breads, and dress them as (No. 674), cut the six throat-breads in slices and put them in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, three chopped eschalots, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon; let them simmer ten minutes, then add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), twenty tablespoonfuls of white stock, and a small bunch of parsley, simmer twenty minutes, take out the parsley, add twelve fine cockscombs ready dressed, (see No. 128), and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream; do not let it boil after the liaison is in, pour the sauce on your dish, lay the neck upon it, glaze the larded sweetbreads, dress them round the neck and serve; keep the neck as white as possible.

No. 588. Neck of Lamb à la Maître d’Hôtel

Plain roast a neck of lamb and proceed as directed for shoulder (No. 583).

No. 589. Petits Poussins à la Moskovite.

Truss two chickens as for boiling, dip the breasts in boiling water one minute, and lard them very nicely, braise them thus: put some slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens breast upwards, put in two onions, one carrot, one turnip, four cloves, and a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add as much white stock as will come up to the larded part of the chicken, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, put the cover on the stewpan and place it over a slow fire, let them simmer very gently about half an hour, a short time before they are done lay some red hot charcoal upon the cover of the stewpan to colour the larded part of the chickens; have ready the following sauce: you have previously boiled a very nice Russian tongue, with a sharp knife trim it and cut it into long thin slices, cut also ten large gherkins in thin slices lengthwise, put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, with four of the vinegar from the gherkins, reduce it to half, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of white stock, boil it a quarter of an hour, or till it becomes rather thickish, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, warm it, season with a little cayenne and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, add the slices of tongue and gherkins, and when quite hot add a gill of cream; pour the sauce on the dish upon which lay the chickens, slantwise, the breasts pointing contrarywise.

No. 590. Petits Poussins à l’Ecarlate.

Roast two spring chickens in vegetables as directed in the Removes; you have previously boiled an ox tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise, trim each piece to imitate two small tongues, fix them on mashed potatoes on your dish, the points in the centre and the thick parts at the ends, then dress the chickens tail to tail to form with the tongues a cross; have ready boiled five small heads of cauliflower, place one of them in the centre upon the tails of the chickens, and one between the chickens and tongue in each space; have ready the following sauce: put three pints of white sauce in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock, boil till rather thick, season with a little sugar and salt, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with a gill of cream, sauce over the chickens and cauliflowers, glaze the tongue and serve.

No. 591. Petits Poussins à la Palestine.

Roast two spring chickens in vegetables as before, prepare forty Jerusalem artichokes and dress in a border round the dish, as directed for noix de veau à la Palestine (No. 567), dress the chickens in the centre, and sauce the same as in the last article.

No. 592. Petits Poussins à la Vénitienne.

Truss, lard, and braise two chickens as before, dress them on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with one of salad oil, pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add two glasses of sherry, reduce to half, add a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock, reduce it till it comes to a proper consistency, add one tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped truffles, and one of chopped parsley; season with a little sugar and salt, throw in twelve fine cockscombs ready dressed, squeeze a little lemon-juice in, and finish with half a gill of cream, sauce over and serve.

No. 593. Petits Poussins à la Prince Albert.

Truss and braise two chickens as above, then have eight lambs’ sweetbreads, and eight plovers’ eggs, as directed for noix de veau à la Prince Albert (No. 570), make a border as there described, and dress the chickens in the centre; have ready the following sauce: put a quart of good veal stock in a stewpan, with the trimmings and bones of a cooked fowl, reduce it to half, pass it through a sieve into another stewpan, skim it, then add a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), half a pint of white sauce, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil altogether ten minutes, finish with two pats of butter, and when melted pour it over the chickens; glaze the sweetbreads and serve.

No. 594. Petits Poussins au jus d’estragon.

Braise two chickens as directed for à la Moscovite (No. 589), but they will not require larding, and completely cover them with stock; when done pass the stock through a tammie into another stewpan, place it on the fire, skim off all the fat, and clarify it as directed (No. 134), place it again on the fire and reduce it to a very thin glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and half a one of sugar, throw in twenty leaves of tarragon, boil altogether two minutes, dress the chickens on a dish, sauce over and serve.

For petits poussins à la maréchale, and ditto à la tartare, see Removes, Nos. 532, 531.

No. 595. Petits Poussins à la Chevalière.

Truss, lard, and braise the chickens as directed for à la Moscovite (No. 589), only let them stew rather longer, dress on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: peel about forty button onions, put a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar in a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when the sugar melts add an ounce of butter and the onions, pass them over a slow fire till they become tender, but they must be kept quite white, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), half a pint of veal stock, and a good bunch of parsley; let it simmer until the onions are quite done, take them out with a colander spoon and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce until it becomes sufficiently thick, then pass it through a tammie over the onions, add twenty heads of mushrooms, boil up, and finish with two pats of butter, a little sugar, and a liaison of two yolks of eggs; pour the sauce on your dish, dress the chickens over and serve; you can lard and dress the fillets of two chickens as directed (No. 792), and garnish your chickens with them.

No. 596. Petits Poussins à la Marengo.

Take two spring chickens and truss them as directed for poulet à la maréchale (No. 532), put four tablespoonfuls of oil in a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens, previously seasoned with pepper and salt, place them over a moderate fire, put the cover on the stewpan, let them go ten minutes till they become brown, then turn them and let remain till the other side is browned, pour off the oil, then add a pint of brown sauce, one bay-leaf, and a pint of good consommé, place it over the fire for a quarter of an hour, take out the chickens, lay them on your dish and keep hot, throw about forty heads of mushrooms into the stewpan, with a little sugar and a clove of scraped garlick, reduce the sauce till it becomes rather thickish; pour it over the chickens and serve.

Poulet à la Marie Stuart (No. 528),
Do. à la Périgord (No. 524),
Do. à la macédoine de legumes (No. 525),
Do. à l’Indienne (No. 526),

which are given in the Removes, may also be served for flancs, reducing the quantity to the size of the dish.

No. 597. Ducklings aux petits pois au lard.

Truss two ducklings with their legs turned inside, roast them in vegetables, but just before they are done take away the vegetables and let them obtain a little colour; have ready boiled three pints of young peas, which put in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of salt, three of sugar, a bunch of ten spring green onions tied up with a few sprigs of parsley, one bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, ten spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and two of consommé; you have boiled half a pound of lean bacon, which cut into neat square pieces the size of small walnuts, put them in the stewpan with the peas and simmer altogether ten minutes, take out the bunch of herbs, place your ducklings in a flat stewpan, pour the peas over and place them in your bain marie for half an hour before serving, then dress your ducklings on a dish, pour the peas over and serve.

No. 598. Ducklings au jus d’orange.

Truss and roast two ducklings as above, and serve on a dish with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) round them. Ducklings aux olives and ducklings à la Chartre are dressed the same as above, but they are given in full in the Removes, No. 539.

No. 599. Faisans à la Fontainebleau.

Procure two young pheasants, pluck, draw, and truss them with their legs turned inside, lard the best part of the breast in a square, lay some thin slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a flat stewpan, put your pheasants upon it breasts upwards; have ready blanched twelve fine cabbage lettuces, take off the outside leaves and place them in the stewpan with the pheasants, put in also two large onions with three cloves stuck in each, and a bunch of parsley with two bayleaves, pour in sufficient white stock to come up to the larded part of the birds, lay eight pork sausages on the top of the lettuces, cover the whole with a sheet of buttered paper, cover the stewpan and stew gently for an hour, glaze and salamander the breasts of the birds, take the lettuces and sausages carefully out and lay them on a clean cloth to extract the grease, then lay two pieces of lettuce in the centre of your dish, just large enough to dress the birds upon, place one upon each piece, and with the remainder make a flat border near the edge of the dish, cut the sausages into three pieces and dress them upon the border of lettuce, pass the stock from the stewpan through a sieve into another stewpan, set it to boil, skim off all the fat, add a pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), reduce it to a nice demi-glace, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, sauce over the birds and serve.

The cabbage lettuces must be rather highly seasoned when put in the pan to stew.

No. 600. Faisans à la purée de Gibier.

Truss, lard, and braise two pheasants in the same manner as in the last, omitting the lettuces and sausages; when done, have ready prepared two thick pieces of toast, which cover with a stuffing made from the livers of the birds, as directed for faisans à l’amiral (see Removes, No. 544); put them in a sauté-pan in the oven twenty minutes, shape them tastefully, place them in your dish, and dress the birds upon them; have ready prepared the following sauce: roast a grouse, partridge, or any bird you have, or the remains of some game left from another dinner, pick off all the flesh, which pound well in a mortar, put two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them a minute or two over the fire, then add the pounded game with a quart of the demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of stock. Boil altogether ten minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, season with a little pepper, salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; if too thick, add a little broth, warm it, but do not let it boil, sauce round the birds, glaze the larded part, and serve.

No. 601. Faisans truffés à la Piémontaise.

Proceed as directed in the Removes, using only two small pheasants or one large one.

No. 602. Faisans à l’Amiral.

Proceed as directed for the remove, but one large pheasant will be quite sufficient, diminish the quantity of garniture and sauce in proportion.

No. 603. Grouse.

Two small grouse will be quite sufficient for a flanc; they are dressed in any of the ways as described for pheasants, but though dressed in the same manner, they might be served in a large dinner, where pheasants were dressed the same, as the flavour of the two would be very different, the grouse being so much wilder would give a different flavour to the garniture and sauces. For grouse à la Rob Roy (see Removes, No 548).

No. 604. Chartreuse de Perdreaux.

Truss two nice partridges with the legs turned inside, stick about ten small pieces of fat bacon two inches in length and the size of a quill through the breasts lengthwise, then cut two nice savoy cabbages in quarters, and boil five minutes, throw them into plenty of cold water; when cold lay them on a sieve, squeeze quite dry with a cloth, season well with pepper and salt, cut out the stalk, and put them into a stewpan, with two onions, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, one carrot, and three quarters of a pound of streaky bacon; cover with a quart of white stock, and let stew an hour or more, till the stock has reduced to a thin glaze; take it off the fire, roast your partridges, take out the skewers and string, bury them in the stewed cabbage whilst hot, and let them remain till wanted; then butter a large plain oval mould, paper it, and again butter the paper; have ready peeled sixty small button onions, which stew in a little white stock and sugar till tender, cut about a hundred pieces of carrots, half an inch in length, and the thickness of a large quill; stew them in the same manner as the onions, have also cut of the same size the same quantity of turnips (do not stew them too much or they would be useless), place a row of onions round the bottom of the mould, then above them a row of carrots, slantwise, but one touching the other, then a row of the turnips, then carrots, proceeding in like manner till you reach the top; drain the cabbage, and squeeze it till it is somewhat firm, put some of it at the bottom of the mould an inch in thickness, and line the sides not quite so thick, put the partridges in the centre with slices of the bacon, finish filling up with the cabbage, place in a stewpan of water over the fire to get hot, but do not let the water get into it; when ready to serve turn out on your dish, and take the paper carefully from it; have ready the following sauce: put the stock from the vegetables and a little of the stock from the cabbage into a stewpan, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), boil to the consistence of demi-glace, add a little sugar, sauce carefully all over, and serve.

No. 605. Chartreuse de Perdreaux à l’Impérial.

Prepare the chartreuse just as above, and when turned out have thirty small quenelles de volaille (No. 120), made in a dessert-spoon; make very carefully a border of mashed potatoes on the top of it about half an inch from the rim, upon which dress the quenelles in the form of a crown, place a fine larded sweetbread dressed (No. 674) in the centre, through which run an atelette of vegetables, sauce as in the last article, and serve; the cabbage, if possible, requires to be drier than in the last.

No. 606. Chartreuse de Perdreaux à la Moderne.

Prepare a chartreuse as before, then have twenty young carrots turned in the shape of pears, but not too small, put them in a stewpan with a little sugar and white stock, and boil till tender; turn out the chartreuse on your dish, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on the top about half an inch from the rim, cut off a piece from the thick part of each carrot, and stand them upright upon the potatoes, fill the centre with a pint of fresh boiled green peas dressed in pyramid, upon the top place a small white cauliflower, nicely boiled, sauce as before, and serve; this makes a very pretty dish.

In case you could not procure a mould as required, you could turn your vegetables, and dress as the carrots above; lay the cabbage, bacon, and partridges in the centre of your dish, dress the vegetables on mashed potatoes tastefully around, finish on the top in either of the two last ways, sauce the same, and serve; although not so handsome it takes less time, and the exercise of a little taste on the part of the cook will render it a very pretty dish.

No. 607. Perdreaux à la Mecklenbourg.

Take three large young partridges, draw, and leave the skin upon the neck as long as possible, put half a pound of the forcemeat of game (No. 123) in a basin, add two finely-chopped fresh French plums, two ounces of chopped tongue or ham (cooked) some chopped parsley, two yolks of eggs, a little cream, and a little grated nutmeg, mix all together, and stuff the breasts of your birds with it, tie them up in thin slices of bacon, and in two or three sheets of oiled paper, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of bucellas wine, a pint of good stock, two large onions, an apple, and a good bunch of parsley; place the stewpan on the fire, and when it begins to boil place it in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, take the birds out of the papers, take off the bacon and place them on your dish, keep hot, and prepare the following sauce: pass the stock from the stewpan through a fine cloth into another stewpan, skim off all the fat and reduce it to half, mix a dessertspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of cold stock, put it into the stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil till forming a demi-glace, put a piece of toast beneath each bird, sauce over and serve; but the last thing before serving add half a spoonful of red currant jelly to the sauce, which season a little high.

No. 608. Perdreaux à la purée de gibier.

Proceed exactly as for the faisan à la purée de gibier (No. 600), the only difference being that the partridges will not require so long to braise as the pheasants.

No. 609. Perdreaux truffés à la Périgord.

Draw three partridges carefully, then prepare a stuffing of truffle as directed for poulardes truffés à la Périgord (No. 524), stuff the inside and breasts well, and leave them a week to take the flavour of the truffles; when ready to roast pass a thin flat iron skewer through them, passing it through the pinions and thighs, tie them in oiled paper, fix the skewer to the spit and roast them before a good fire for half an hour, letting them get a little colour through the paper; in taking them off the skewer be careful not to break the breast, or they would look unsightly; dress them on a dish and sauce as for the poulardes; serve very hot.

No. 610. Leveraut sauce poivrade.

A young leveret may be occasionally served for a flanc; truss it as for roasting, and lard the fillets very fine, roast it nicely, keeping it rather underdone, dress it on your dish, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) round it.

No. 611. Levraut au jus de groseilles.

Truss and lard a young leveret as above, then prepare a marinade as for filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne (No. 426), put in the leveret for three days; when ready dry it in a cloth and roast before a sharp fire, keep it moist, serve with a demi-glace (No. 9), in which you have put two spoonfuls of currant jelly, a little cayenne pepper, and two dozen of stoned olives.

No. 612. Lapereaux à la Tavernière.

Tame and even wild rabbits are extremely useful in cooking, though very little used for flancs; they may be served with propriety in the ways I have here described, particularly in the country, where they are so plentiful, and your resources frequently so limited.

Skin and truss two young rabbits as for roasting, then put two ounces of butter in a flat stewpan, (large enough to contain the rabbits,) cut half a pound of mild lean ham into large dice, put them into the stewpan, with the butter, and fry them gently ten minutes, then put in the rabbits, put the cover over the stewpan and place it over a slow fire, turn them round now and then until they take a light-brown colour, add fifty button onions, which also colour, take out the rabbits, add two ounces of flour to the ingredients in the stewpan (mix well) and a quart of white stock; place the stewpan over the fire, keep it stirred until boiling, put back the rabbits, with a good bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and four cloves; let it simmer, skim off the fat, which will rise to the top, take out the rabbits, you have previously taken out the onions with a spoon and deposited them in a clean stewpan, with the pieces of ham; reduce the sauce to the thickness required, pass it through a tammie into the stewpan containing the onions and ham, add twenty heads of mushrooms, dress your rabbits on a dish slantingly, the heads pointing different ways, sauce over and serve. Finish the sauce with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream.

No. 613. Lapereaux à la Jardinière.

Procure two young rabbits and proceed as in the last, but at the time you add the onions also add the same quantity of pieces of carrot and turnip cut with a scoop of the same size as the onions, skim well, and when done take them out, put them as before in a clean stewpan, take up the rabbits, pass the sauce through a tammie upon them, add half a teaspoonful of sugar and a few heads of asparagus or peas, make it quite hot; sauce over the rabbits and serve.

No. 614. Lapereaux aux petits pois.

Dress the rabbits as directed for lapereaux à la tavernière, but putting only half the quantity of onions; when you take out the rabbits add a quart of fresh boiled young green peas, (you do not take out the onions as previously,) season with a little sugar and salt, dress the rabbits on a dish, and sauce over; the sauce requires to be rather thick, but yet not too thick; if too thin it would have a bad appearance, and if too thick it would be unpleasant eating.

No. 615. Lapereaux à la Villageoise.

Skin and truss two young rabbits, make a stuffing of the livers as directed in faisan à la corsaire (No. 544); stuff the rabbits and roast them, baste them well whilst roasting by throwing flour over them and moistening with butter, and when roasted have ready the following sauce: put two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them for five minutes over a slow fire, then add half a pint of melted butter (No. 71), keep it stirred over the fire, and when beginning to boil add two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon, shake the stewpan over the fire till the butter is melted; dress your rabbits upon a dish, sauce over and serve.

No. 616. Lapereaux à la Bourgmestre.

Truss and stuff two very fine young rabbits as above, lard the fillets and roast a nice colour; you have previously filleted three young rabbits, take off the skin of the fillets and lard them with very fine bacon, then put some thin slices of bacon and onions cut in slices in a sauté-pan, put your fillets upon them, cover with white stock, lay a sheet of buttered paper over and put them in the oven for half an hour, give your fillets a good colour, dress your rabbits in the centre, the fillets around upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) poured round.

No. 617. Lapereaux à l’Anglaise.

Truss two young rabbits as usual, and put them in a stewpan, with a quart of water and a pint of milk, stew them half an hour or till tender, place them on a dish and serve them up covered with onion sauce (No. 47).

No. 618. Pâté chaud d’Agneau.

Procure an oval raised-pie mould, about four inches in height, five in breadth, and nine in length; then make the following paste: put two pounds of flour on your pastry slab, make a hole in the middle, put a quarter of a pound of chopped suet and a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with half a pint of water, let it boil one minute, pour it into the flour, mix with a spoon until cool enough to work with the hands, work it smooth, and when nearly cold roll out a sheet three quarters of an inch in thickness, with which line the mould, pressing the paste equally at all parts; you have cut twelve or more lambs’ cutlets, leave them thick and take away the bones, lay the cutlets in the pie alternately with slices of potatoes about a quarter of an inch in thickness until it is quite full, season highly as you proceed with pepper, salt, chopped onions, and chopped parsley, make a cover with the trimmings of the paste, ornament it to fancy, work up the edges with the fingers, and crimp it nicely with the paste-nippers, let it stand two hours to get dry, egg the top and bake it three hours in a moderate oven; when done cut out the lid, take as much fat from the top as possible, put half a pint of good stock in a stewpan, with a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a small piece of glaze, reduce till rather thick, add a little sugar, pour in the sauce, take out of the mould, put on the cover and serve very hot; if care be taken in baking the crust will be a bright yellow colour.

No. 619. Pâté chaud de Mouton à l’Irlandaise.

Line a mould with paste as in the last, fill it as there described, using mutton cutlets instead of lamb, and more onions in the seasoning, give it half an hour longer to bake, and use brown instead of white sauce to fill it up; serve in the same manner as the last.

No. 620. Pâté chaud d’Escalopes de filet de Bœuf.

Line a mould with the paste as before, have twenty or more pieces of fillet of beef, in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, season them on a dish with pepper, salt, and onions, dip each piece in flour, and grate a little nutmeg over them, have also ready twenty thin slices of lean ham, but the same size as the pieces of beef, and twenty slices of potatoes one inch in thickness, put a layer of beef at the bottom of the pie, then a layer of the ham, then potatoes, proceeding in like manner till it is full, cover and bake as before; when ready to serve pour in a brown sauce as in the last.

No. 621. Pâté chaud d’Escalopes de Veau et de ris de Veau.

Line a mould with paste as before, take a piece of veal from the leg, from which cut twenty-four escalopes the thickness of three five-shilling-pieces, but rather larger, have also two large throat sweetbreads, boil them in water a quarter of an hour, and cut them into escalopes the same size as the veal, cut also thirty very thin escalopes of streaky bacon the same size, season the whole very highly with pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chopped eschalots, proceed to fill the pie, first lay in a piece of veal, then bacon, then sweetbread, bacon and veal again, proceeding in like manner till full, cover and bake three hours, when done sauce as for the pâté d’agneau and serve. You may place a couple of bay-leaves upon the top of each pie previous to covering, it is an improvement to all, especially lamb or veal.

No. 622. Pâté chaud de Volaille.

Line a mould with paste as before, then cut up two chickens into neat pieces, taking off the wings with good fillets, leaving sufficient on the breast, which divide in two pieces, bone the legs, and divide the backs into two, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, when it melts add your pieces of chicken, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, add two bay-leaves and place the stewpan twenty minutes over a very slow fire, then pour off the butter and add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), stew ten minutes and pour them on a dish till cold, fill up the pie, placing the pieces of the back at the bottom, then the legs, then breast, finishing at the tops with the wings, have also twenty pieces of cooked ham about the size of five-shilling-pieces, which intersperse with the chicken, put a cover on and bake one hour and a half in a very warm oven, when done cut off the cover and take off as much of the fat as possible, put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of white stock, when it boils add about forty heads of mushrooms and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil ten minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pour the sauce into the pie, put on the cover and serve.

No. 623. Pâté chaud de Pigeonneaux.

Line a mould with paste as before, then take six young pigeons trussed with their legs inside, cut each pigeon in halves lengthwise, pass them in butter the same as the chickens, proceeding in the same manner, but using brown instead of white sauce, put them on a dish to cool, have the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs (which cut in halves), and twelve slices of boiled streaky bacon, lay a slice of bacon and half a pigeon alternately in the pie, interspersing the hard-boiled yolks here and there, when filled cover and bake two hours in a moderate oven, when done take off the cover and as much fat as possible, then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with half a pint of good stock and an ounce of glaze, reduce to two thirds, pour into the pie which cover and serve as before.

Pâtés chauds may be made of all kinds of birds as pheasants, grouse, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, or larks, by following either of the two last recipes, but they are usually served as entrées, where I intend placing them.

No. 624. Pâté chaud de Lapereau.

Line a mould with paste as before, then procure two or three young rabbits, according to the size, which cut into neat pieces, and place in a stewpan of boiling water for one minute, take them out, pass in butter, and proceed precisely as for pâté chaud de volaille (No. 622).

No. 625. Vol-au-vent.

Vol-au-vents are usually served for entrées, but by cutting one larger and of an oval shape they may be served for flancs with any of the garnitures as directed in the entrées.

No. 626. Casserole de Riz.

Wash in several waters two pounds of the best Carolina rice; when very clean put it into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, half a pound of butter, two large onions, and half an ounce of salt, set on a fire, and when boiling place it to simmer very gently on a slow fire for one hour; when done it must appear quite dry and tender to the finger, take out the onions and mix the rice well with a wooden spoon; if sufficiently done it will clog together, then put it in a mortar and pound it well till it forms but one mass, butter a baking-sheet, lay the rice upon it and you will be able to form it into any shape you please, but for flancs form it of an oval shape in imitation of a raised pie, (should the rice stick to your fingers dip them in cold water,) when of a proper shape and well elevated cut a piece of carrot or turnip in the form of a wedge, with which make impressions all round according to fancy, melt some butter, and with a paste-brush rub it all over the rice, put it in a very hot oven and bake it a light yellow colour; if well made it will retain its shape, and any design you may have impressed upon it; when well done make an incision with your knife half an inch from the edge all round, and empty it to within half an inch from the bottom; it is then ready to serve with any of the ingredients as directed in the following.

No. 627. Casserole de Riz aux queues d’Agneau.

Procure six house lambs’ tails, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, then cut them in pieces an inch long; put a quarter of a pound of chopped suet in a stewpan, with two onions, a carrot cut up small, one turnip, three bay-leaves, six cloves, and a little thyme; pass the whole upon a slow fire ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of flour (mix well), two quarts of white stock, and a little salt; then add the tails, let simmer gently forty minutes or more till tender, take them out and drain upon a clean cloth, put into another stewpan a quart of white sauce and half a pint of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add the tails, with twenty heads of mushrooms, a little chopped parsley, pepper, and salt, add the liaison from two yolks of eggs and a gill of cream; shake it over the fire, but do not let it boil, finish with a little lemon-juice, pour it in the casserole and serve.

No. 628. Casserole de Riz au queues de Veau.

Scald and cut four calves’ tails into pieces an inch long, dress them precisely as the lambs’ tails in the previous article, only allowing them longer to stew, terminate and serve as in the last.

No. 629. Casserole de Riz aux pieds d’Agneau.

Procure twelve lambs’ feet, throw them into boiling water for two minutes, extract the long bone by holding the feet in a cloth and moving the bone gently till it leaves the socket; when they are all done proceed as for the lambs’ tails (No. 627), boiling them rather longer, sauce and serve precisely the same.

No. 630. Casserole de Riz au pieds de mouton.

Procure ten small sheeps’ feet, dress them precisely as the lambs’ feet, but of course they will take more time; when tender divide each foot in two lengthwise, sauce and serve as directed for queues d’agneau (No. 627). Sheeps’ feet, commonly called sheeps’ trotters, are seldom used in this country to any real advantage, although in Paris they have made the fortunes of more than one restaurateur; one house was so famed for them, that its proprietor named it Restaurant du Pied de Mouton. About sixteen years ago epicures were seen from all parts of Paris trotting after a dinner of trotters, until the proprietor saved an immense fortune; but they are even now much thought of in Paris, both for their lightness and delicacy, and are always to be had in any of the first houses.

For my part I really think they deserve a better fate than that of being trotted about from bar to bar in palaces certainly containing the choicest spirits, and to be exposed on a cloth (semi-blanche) in a basket, and from thence to the honest, but not very delicate fingers of a London coalheaver or dustman; I must, however, observe that it is not my desire to deprive them of their luxury, but a mere wish to find a resting-place for the unfortunate trotters upon the tables of the affluent in this country, where they would be eaten and admired for their delicacy.

No. 631. Casserole de Riz à la Néapolitaine.

Have ready a casserole of rice as directed, then boil half a pound of riband macaroni in water ten minutes, strain it and put it in a stewpan, cut up a braised fowl, (or the remains of some poultry from a previous dinner,) in as large pieces as possible, which put in the stewpan, with the macaroni and a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cover with a pint of very strong beef gravy; let all boil together a few minutes, then add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, a tablespoonful of tomata sauce (No. 37), and a little cayenne pepper, pour it in the casserole, egg and bread-crumb the top, put it in the oven twenty minutes and serve.

No. 632. Casserole de Riz Polonaise à la Koroski.

Prepare a casserole of rice as before, then mince the flesh of a fowl (or the remains of several) with two ounces of lean cooked ham and a few mushrooms, or truffles; put two spoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with two pats of butter; stir them over the fire two minutes, add half a spoonful of flour, (mix well) and a quart of white sauce (No. 7); boil altogether a short time, then add the mince, season with a little pepper and salt, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and pour it in your casserole; you have previously boiled eight eggs in water five minutes, then put them in cold water, peel off the shells, warm them again in broth, and dress them on the mince at equal distances, the ends pointing to the centre; have also eight pieces of cooked tongue cut in the shape of cockscombs, warm them and place a piece upright between each egg; have ready a nice larded sweetbread, nicely cooked, which place in the centre, glaze the sweetbread and tongue, and pour a little white sauce over the eggs; serve very hot.

No. 633. Casserole de Riz à la Royale.

Prepare a casserole of rice, mince a fowl, with ham and truffles, and proceed as in the last; when done fill your casserole; have ready twelve plovers’ eggs, peel off the shells, warm them in broth, and place them round on the mince points upwards at equal distances, apart; have previously boiled some nice asparagus, cut off the heads about an inch and a half in length, and stand a bunch of five or six heads between each plover’s egg, making them stand a little above the eggs; have also twelve very fine cockscombs ready cooked (see No. 128), which dress in the middle, put fifteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, and when boiling add two pats of butter and a little lemon-juice, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg, pour over the cockscombs and serve.

No. 634. Casserole de Riz à la Chevalière.

Prepare a casserole as before, prepare two chickens as directed in the entrée à la chevalière (No. 818); fill your casserole, by placing the pieces of back at the bottom, then the legs and pinions, pour the sauce and garniture over, dress the four larded fillets to meet in a point, and finish by placing a small white head of cauliflower, nicely boiled, on the top, in the centre of the fillets, and serve.

When you serve a dinner where four entrées and two flancs are required, it is the object of the host to see his table well garnished; and no hors-d’œuvres being served, you may make flancs of them, although, I must repeat, flancs ought to be composed of one solid piece, or, at any rate, not more than two or three pieces, but circumstances may require a deviation from this rule; I have therefore given a list of those hors-d’œuvres which may be used for flancs, by adding to the number required for a dish, and making them rather larger; the croustades de beurre and timbales must be dressed in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes, and the petits vol-au-vents in pyramid on a napkin.

I will here give but the list; for directions you must refer to the chapter devoted to Hors-d’œuvres

Croustade de beurre aux huîtres.
Do. aux laitances de maquereaux.
Do. purée de volaille.
Do. purée de gibier.

Petits timbales aux œufs de pluviers.
Do. de volaille aux truffes.
Do. purée de riz de veau.
Do. quenelles de gibier.

Petits vol-au-vents aux huîtres.
Do. aux filets de soles.
Do. de homard.
Do. of crab.

ENTRÉES.

Entrées require to be small and elegant, as well as tasty; those which can be dressed in a crown like cotelettes, quenelles, or fillets of any description, are preferable, and more graceful, the garniture being placed in the centre; they are also more likely to be partaken of on account of the facility of serving, they being already carved, and much better than large pieces, such as whole fowls, vol-au-vents, or pâtés chauds; where you require flancs, by all means reserve them for that purpose; but in a dinner of four entrées only, you require to send two entrées light, and two (what I term) solid, for the sake of variety, for if you had four light entrées upon the table without flancs, there would not appear sufficient dinner for the assembled guests, but the solid entrées may be made to look exceedingly light if carried to a height corresponding to their breadth; in dishing your entrées always allow an inch between the entrée and the rim of the dish, or if the dishes are large leave more space; the round entrée dishes are the most preferable, and should not be more than an inch and a half, or less than an inch in depth.

No. 635. Of Beef for Entrées.

Of all kinds of butchers’ meat, beef, though so useful in cooking, presents the least variation for entrées, the fillet being the only part that can be used to any advantage.

No. 636. Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Reform.

Take out the fillet from beneath a rump of beef, take off all the fat, and cut it into slices (lengthwise) half an inch in thickness, beat them well with the cutlet-bat, which previously dip in water, then cut them into ten or twelve escalopes, the size and shape of fillets of chickens, lay each piece upon the table, season with pepper, salt, and a little chopped eschalots, cut two very thin slices of fat bacon to each escalope of beef, trim the bacon to the same size and shape, egg over the escalopes of beef, and stick a piece of the bacon upon each side of them, then egg all over and throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs mixed with chopped lean cooked ham; take them out, beat lightly with your knife, put a little oil in a sauté-pan, place it over a moderate fire, when quite hot put in your escalopes, fry a nice colour, and dress in crown upon a thin border of mashed potatoes, glaze nicely; sauce over with a sauce reforme (No. 35), and serve.

No. 637. Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Gotha.

Cut twelve escalopes of beef as described in the last, scrape a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, melt it in a stewpan, and pass it through a sieve into a well-tinned sauté-pan, then lay in your escalopes, season them with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, and a little pepper and salt, pass them over the fire five minutes, and leave them to get cold in the sauté-pan; you have procured half a pound of pork sausage-meat, which place in a mortar, add to it three tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a little chopped parsley, also a little thyme, and one bay-leaf, chopped very fine, pound all well together and mix it with one egg; you have also procured a pig’s caul, cut it in twelve square pieces, each the size of a small hand, lay a little of the sausage-meat in the centre a quarter of an inch in thickness, upon which lay one of the escalopes, with the bacon and seasoning which is attached, cover with a little more of the sausage-meat and wrap them up in the caul, keeping the same shape as the pieces of beef and as flat as you can, proceed in like manner till they are all finished; put them in a cool place ten minutes, before serving put them over a good fire upon a gridiron, broil them a nice colour, dress them in a crown, fill the centre with some very white stewed choucroute (No. 116), and serve very hot.

No. 638. Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Portugaise.

Prepare twelve escalopes of beef as before, and cook them precisely as in the last; have ready prepared two Portugal onions, which peel and blanch ten minutes in boiling water, then put them into a stewpan just large enough to contain them, cover with some white veal stock, add a bunch of parsley, and stew for an hour or more till quite tender, the smallest one will of course be the first done, take it off and keep it hot till the second one is done, then place the largest upon a piece of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, dress the escalopes around upon a small border of mashed potatoes, the points inclining inwards; dress the smaller onion upon the larger, and run a silver attelet through them both; pass the stock the onions were stewed in through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce it to a demi-glace, skim it well, add four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil altogether a minute, sauce over and serve.

No. 639. Escalopes de Filets de Bœuf à la Nemours.

Cut twenty-four escalopes of beef as before, but not half so thick, put four tablespoonfuls of forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin with two spoonfuls of chopped lean ham and the yolk of an egg, mix well together, then lay twelve of the escalopes of beef upon the table, put a little of the forcemeat on each, spread it all over with a knife, lay a very thin slice of cooked ham, fat and lean, upon each, spread a little more of the forcemeat over, then lay one of the other twelve escalopes upon each, season with a little pepper and salt; egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, take them out, beat lightly with your knife, and fry carefully in a sauté-pan with lard, dress them in a crown, glaze and have ready the following sauce: put an ounce of glaze in a sauté-pan, with two spoonfuls of broth and two of white sauce; when boiling, add half an ounce of very fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little lemon-juice (do not let it boil after you have put in the butter), sauce over and serve.

No. 640. Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à l’Ostende.

Cut twenty escalopes as in the last article, then blanch and beard two or three dozen of Ostend or small oysters, and cut them up in small dice, then put half a teaspoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four tablespoonfuls of the juice of the oysters, and four of white sauce, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred, then add the oysters with a little essence of anchovies and cayenne pepper; place it again on the fire, and just as it begins to boil add the yolk of an egg, stir it well in and set it on a dish to cool, then lay ten of the escalopes upon the table, and spread a little of the above upon each, cover the ten other escalopes over them, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry as in the last; glaze, dress them in crown, and have ready the following sauce: put half an ounce of glaze in a stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of good stock and four of brown sauce, place it on the fire, and when it boils add half an ounce of anchovy butter, pour the sauce in the dish and serve.

No. 641. Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf piqué à la Chasseur.

Cut ten escalopes as described for à la reform, but rather thicker, lard each piece with bacon one inch long and narrow in proportion, but do not let the bacon show far out of the beef, then prepare two quarts of marinade (see filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne, No. 426); lay your escalopes in a dish, and strain the marinade over, let them remain about twenty-four hours, take them out and lay them on a cloth, cover the bottom of the sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the escalopes over, add a little of the liquor, but not sufficient to cover them; place a sheet of buttered paper over the sauté-pan and put them in a slow oven for half an hour or more, moisten them now and then with their stock, and when nearly done glaze and give them a little colour with the salamander, take them out, drain on a cloth, and dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes; have ready the following sauce: pass the stock they were cooked in through a tammie into a stewpan, boil it at the corner of the stove, skim off all the grease, add half a pint of brown sauce, and reduce it till it forms a good demi-glaze, then add a spoonful of currant jelly and a pat of butter, mix it quickly and sauce over, season a little more if required.

No. 642. Other Entrées of Fillets of Beef.

Take the best part of a fillet of beef, that is, about the middle, cut eighteen slices three quarters of inch in thickness, and beat them with your small chopper to the thickness of half an inch; cut each slice into an oval piece, cut also six oval pieces of suet from the kidney, about half the size, and not so thick as the fillet, dip the pieces of fillet in flour, previously seasoning them with pepper and salt; fry in clarified butter in a sauté-pan over a sharp fire, egg and bread-crumb the pieces of fat, fry them after the pieces of fillet, dress them alternately with the fillets in a crown, and serve with any of the following sauces:

Sauce piquante (No. 27),
Do. à l’Italienne (No. 30),
Do. tomate (No. 37),
Do. poivrade (No. 32),
Do. à la Hollandaise (No. 66),

or any of the sauces described for fillets of beef in the Removes, but of course preparing a smaller quantity; you can also convert the remains of a fillet of beef left from a remove into an entrée, by cutting it into slices and trimming it into oval pieces, not cutting the larded part; lay the pieces in a sauté-pan and just cover them with a good strong gravy, place a sheet of paper over, and put them in a moderate oven till they are quite hot through, take them out and serve with any of the sauces mentioned for fillets of beef in the Removes.

No. 643. Aiguillette de Langue de Bœuf en Papillote.

Boil a salt ox-tongue three hours, and when cold cut ten pieces from the best part, of the shape of a fillet of fowl, and half an inch in thickness, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a sauté-pan with one of oil, place the pan over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon; when the onions become tender (but not to change colour) pour off all the oil, add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and a pint of white sauce (No. 7), moisten with a little white stock, and reduce it till it becomes very thick, then add the pieces of tongue, toss over in the sauce, and leave them to get cold; have cut ten pieces of white paper in the shape of hearts, and large enough to fold a piece of the tongue in each, spread a little of the cold sauce upon the paper, then a slice of the tongue, which cover with more of the sauce, twist up the papers and broil them gradually ten minutes, serve them in the papers dressed in a crown, with a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under them; the tongues of any other animals, whether pickled or not, may be served in this manner, but of course the sauce must be more highly seasoned for the fresh tongue than for the pickled one.

No. 644. Turban de Langue de Bœuf à l’Ecarlate.

Boil two tongues separately, one pickled very red, and the other not pickled; cut six pieces from the thick part of each, about the size and shape of fillets of fowl, place the twelve pieces in a sauté-pan with an ounce of glaze and four tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), place over the fire, and let it remain till the pieces are quite hot, but do not let it boil; dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in crown, and prepare a sauce thus: place the sauté-pan again on the fire, and add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with four of consommé and a little sugar, boil a few minutes, pour over the tongue, glaze the red pieces, and serve.

No. 645. Turban de Langue de Bœuf à la Jardinière.

Proceed with the tongues precisely as in the last, and prepare the following sauce: cut about fifty scoops of carrots and fifty of turnips (with an iron scoop) a little larger than a pea, peel also forty very small onions, put them altogether in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar, pass them for ten minutes over a sharp fire, tossing them over now and then; add half a pint of good white stock, let them stew till tender and the broth is reduced to glaze, then turn them into the sauté-pan with the stock you warmed the tongue in, stir all round together, dress the vegetables in the centre, pour the glaze over the tongue, and serve; if the carrots are old they require to be stewed separately, as they take so much longer than the turnip or onion.

No. 646. Turban de Langue de Bœuf, sauce piquante.

Prepare twelve pieces of tongue as before, either pickled or fresh, dress them round upon your dish, put a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27) in the sauté-pan with a little sugar, boil altogether a minute, sauce over, and serve immediately; you can also serve dressed spinach or endive (Nos. 106 and 119) with it; if you serve an entrée of pickled tongue, it should be placed near an entrée of fowl or veal, or near to a remove of the same description, with which they eat much better, and for entrées of fresh tongue, season the sauces rather high.

No. 647. Queues de Bœuf aux navets au brun.

A few very nice entrées may be made of ox-tails; they certainly do not make handsome ones, but their delicate flavour supplies their deficiency in appearance.

For one entrée take two fine tails, cut them at the joints into pieces, or saw them into pieces an inch thick, which last way in my opinion is best, the pieces not being so clumsy; when cut put them into a stewpan, with three large onions, one carrot, one turnip, six cloves, a blade of mace, four bay-leaves, four sprigs of thyme, and a tablespoonful of salt; cover them with second stock or water, place the stewpan over the fire, and let it boil at the corner till the pieces are tender, and leave the bone easily; when done lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes upon the bottom of your dish, build up the pieces pyramidically, and have ready the following sauce: scoop fifty pieces of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan with half a tablespoonful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a few tablespoonfuls of broth or brown gravy (No. 135), with a bunch of parsley and a bay-leaf, let them simmer at the corner of the stove until the turnips are tender, take them out with a colander spoon and put them into a clean stewpan, reduce and skim the sauce well, and when of a proper thickness, pass it through a tammie over the turnips, make all hot together, sauce over the tails, and serve.

No. 648. Queues de Bœuf à la Jardinière.

Cook and dress the tails as before, then cut some carrots and turnips with button onions, as directed for the tongue à la jardinière (No. 645), pass them in a stewpan, with a little butter and powdered sugar, ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce, with a quarter of a pint of stock, boil on the corner of the stove (skim well) until the vegetables are tender, and the sauce attains a good consistency; season with a little salt and sugar if required, sauce over, and serve.

No. 649. Queues de Bœuf sauce aux cornichons.

Cook and dress the tails as before, have ready a quart of sauce au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), but not quite so acid as there directed, reduce till rather thick; have ready a good tablespoonful of chopped gherkins, and when the sauce is boiling throw them in, season with a little sugar and salt, sauce over, and serve. The sauce requires to be thick enough to adhere to the pieces of tails.

No. 650. Queues de Bœuf en currie.

Cook the tails as before, have ready about a quart of currie sauce (No. 46), moisten it with twenty spoonfuls of stock, stir in a stewpan over the fire, and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; then put in your ox-tails, and stand the stewpan in a bain marie till wanted, dress them in pyramid upon your dish, add twenty mushrooms to the sauce, which boil and skim, pour over, and serve with some boiled rice very dry (No. 129) upon a separate dish, to be placed on the side table.

No. 651. Queues de Bœuf à la Sicilienne.

Cook the tails as before, select ten of the best pieces, which drain well upon a cloth, have ready prepared about half a pint of sauce Durcelle (No. 704), let it get cold, then spread some over each piece of tail to entirely cover it, egg and bread-crumb, and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes, salamander a nice brown colour, dress in pyramid on your dish, and serve with some sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) round.

No. 652. Queues de Bœuf à la Marseillaise.

Cook and select ten of the best pieces as above, but instead of surrounding them with a sauce Durcelle spread a purée of onions, as for cotelettes à la Provençale (No. 701), a quarter of an inch in thickness over them, egg and bread-crumb twice each, and just before serving fry in very hot lard; then put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of consommé (No. 134), and a little piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea; reduce and skim till becoming a nice demi-glace, dress in pyramid, and pour the sauce round.

No. 653. To prepare and dress Palates of Beef.

Palates of beef, if properly dressed, are very delicate eating, being of a gelatinous substance, they are much to be recommended; the reason, I believe, they are so seldom used, is the difficulty of giving them a graceful appearance in the dish; to obviate which, I have introduced one or two new receipts; I never expect it will be a fashionable dish, yet I think they are likely to bring them more in vogue.

For one entrée take four palates, put them in a large stewpan with lukewarm water for four or five hours to disgorge, then pour off the water, cover again with fresh water and put them on the fire till the palates begin to get hard, take one out and put it in cold water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes off easily, take out the rest, but if not leave them a little longer, scrape them until you have got off all the skin, and nothing but the white, half-transparent substance remains, when done, prepare a white stock (No. 133), in which boil them three or four hours till very tender; try them with a knife, take them up and lay them flat upon a dish, put a little of the stock in the dish with them, then place another dish of the same size over them, and let them remain till quite cold, they are then ready for use.

No. 654. Palates de Bœuf à la Ravigote.

Having prepared four palates as in the last, cut each in three, of an oval shape, each piece to be about the size of a fillet of fowl, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a very small piece of butter, stir a few minutes over a slow fire, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till becoming thick, keeping it stirred, then take it off the fire, add the yolk of two eggs, stir very quickly, and season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; then take each piece of palate singly on a fork and dip in the sauce, when well covered lay it on a dish to get cold; when all done, and half an hour before dinner-time, dip them into three eggs well beaten together, then into bread-crumbs, then into the eggs and bread-crumbs again, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them a nice colour in very hot lard; serve with a sauce ravigote (No. 44) under, and dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes.

No. 655. Attelets de Palates de Bœuf.

Have four palates prepared, which cut into thirty pieces with a round cutter, the size of a shilling, dip each piece into sauce, but a little thinner than above, and lay them on a dish to cool; cut twenty pieces of dressed tongue of the same size, and twenty slices of large truffles, with twenty of mushrooms, then have eight small silver skewers (or attelets), upon which place the pieces of palates, placing either a slice of tongue, truffle, or mushroom between each; when you have stuck them all on the skewers, have a little of the sauce you dipped the palates in, spread a little over the crevices between to make them look like one, dip each attelet in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, and fry a nice colour in hot lard; dress them three at the bottom, then three above, the reverse of the others to form a square, and the other two across, garnish with plenty of fried parsley, and serve very hot.

No. 656. Palates de Bœuf à la Vivandière.

Proceed, fry, and dress them as directed for à la ravigote; serve with the following sauce: chop two large onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, place them over the fire, keeping stirred till they become rather yellow, then pour off as much butter as you can; add a glass of port wine and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, let simmer five minutes, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and six of consommé (No. 134), reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, pour the sauce in the centre and round your palates, have a good handful of fried parsley, which place in a pyramid in the centre, and serve very hot.

No. 657. Turban de Palate de Bœuf au gratin.

Prepare four palates of beef as before, which cut into twelve oval pieces, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), place a little on the bottom of a sauté-pan in a circle (the size you require your entrée), then cover each piece of palate with the remainder, and dress them in a crown upon the forcemeat in the sauté-pan; egg and bread-crumb, place them in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, if getting too much colour cover some paper over; when done, detach it from the sauté-pan with a thin long knife, and with a fish-slice remove it into your dish, sauce over with a sauce Italienne (No. 30), and serve. Should you have a silver dish for au gratins, it would be preferable to dress it upon that, as it would not require moving.

No. 658. Vol-au-vent de Palates de Bœuf.

Make a vol-au-vent as described (No. 1140), have ready prepared four palates, which cut into pieces with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown, put them into a stewpan with ten mushrooms, a quart of white sauce (No. 7), and six spoonfuls of white stock; when boiling, add a bunch of parsley, let simmer on the corner of the stove half an hour, skim, take out the parsley if too thick, add a little more stock, throw in a pat of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, sugar, and a little lemon-juice, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, let it set over the fire, but not boil, fill the vol-au-vent and serve.

It may be served also in a casserole of rice (No. 626), or flat, as a blanquette, in an entrée-dish garnished with croutons of bread.

No. 659. Palates de Bœuf en Papillote.

Have prepared four palates, which cut into twelve oval pieces, put two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a deep sauté-pan, with four of chopped onions, stir with a wooden spoon five minutes over a sharp fire, then pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms, with six of white stock, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; add a little grated nutmeg, then put in your pieces of palates, boil a few minutes longer, and turn the whole on a dish to get cold; finish dressing, and serve as directed for aiguillettes de langue de bœuf (No. 643).

No. 660. Turban de Tête de Veau en Tortue.

Cook and prepare a calf’s head as directed in the Removes (No. 462); only for entrees you must cut much smaller pieces, and of course you require a much smaller quantity of sauce. I have merely repeated it here to show that it may be served as an entrée; but great care must be taken in boiling the head, for if not done enough it is not eatable, and if done too much it would be impossible to dress them on your dish. Care must also be taken in dishing up to make it look graceful, and it cannot be served too hot.

No. 661. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Prepare your calf’s head as in the last, and dress the pieces in crown upon mashed potatoes, have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of good white stock, boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), very highly seasoned, let it melt, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 662. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Hollandaise.

Prepare and dish the calf’s head as before, serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over it.

No. 663. Turban de Tête de Veau à la Poulette.

Prepare and dish as before, have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) with a pint of white stock, thirty small button-onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied together, into a stewpan, simmer at the corner of the stove nearly an hour, skim and take out the bunch of herbs, then with a colander-spoon take out the onions, which put in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass through a tammie over the onions, add twelve nice white blanched mushrooms, set again on the fire, and when nearly boiling, add a liaison of one yolk of egg (mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream), stir in quickly, place over the fire another minute, keeping it stirred, but do not let it boil, add a little lemon-juice and chopped parsley, sauce over and serve immediately.

No. 664. Turban de Tête de Veau à l’Indienne.

Prepare and dress the head as usual, and serve with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45).

Great care should be taken in choosing Indian pickles, no sort are of any service in cooking but the green prickly sort, when good they are milder eating, a good flavour, and firm to the touch, but if very hot and soft they are fit for nothing whatever.

Calf’s head may be served for entrées dressed as directed with sauce currie (No. 46), and rice, separate, or sauce poivrade, piquante, or tomates (Nos. 32, 27 and 37).

No. 665. Oreilles de Veau farci.

It requires four ears to make an entrée, trim rather small and set them in warm water to disgorge for several hours, then prepare a white stock like for calf’s head (No. 459), put them in and stew for an hour or more till tender, leave them to get cold in their stock, then take half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), to which add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms; mix altogether with the yolk of an egg, take out the ears, which dry on a cloth, fill the inside with the forcemeat but not too full, have some eggs well beaten in a basin, dip the ears in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, fry in lard but not too hot as the forcemeat takes some time to cook, dress upon mashed potatoes on your dish and serve a sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) under them.

No. 666. Oreilles de Veau en marinade.

Cook the ears as above, but do not stuff them, cut each ear in five or six pieces the long way, and put them in a basin with pepper, salt, two onions in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, eight cloves, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and two of oil; let them remain six hours or more, then take out the pieces of ear, wipe each piece with a cloth, have ready some batter (No. 1285), dip the pieces in separately, let them be covered in every part, and drop them into hot lard, they will take five minutes to fry, dress them on a dish with a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12) under them; garnish with fried parsley and serve. Two ears will be sufficient for the above.

No. 667. Langues de Veau aux champignons.

Procure four tongues, which put in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves, one blade of mace, and six cloves; cover with white broth or water, if water add a scrag of veal, half a pound of lean ham, and a little salt; place on the fire, and when it commences boiling skim it and place it at the corner of the stove till the tongues are done, which you can ascertain by pricking them with a packing-needle; if it goes in easy they are done; take them up and peel off the skin, cut each tongue into three slices of the shape of cotelettes, dress them in a crown upon mashed potatoes, glaze well, and serve with a sauce aux champignons (No. 52). If the tongues are boiled the day previous, warm them as directed langue de bœuf (No. 644).

Calves’ tongues dressed this way may also be served with sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), sauce piquante, or sauce poivrade (Nos. 27 and 32).

No. 668. Calves’ Brains.

Procure two sets of brains, leave them four hours in water to disgorge, take off the skin which covers them, and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of water, one wineglass of vinegar, some salt, two onions sliced, a carrot, a few cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let boil gently from twenty minutes to half an hour, take them up, lay on a cloth, and cut each one in halves, place them in the dish and serve with a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), matelote (No. 62), maître d’hôtel (No. 43), or piquante (No. 27), or beurre noir (No. 306).

No. 669. Queues de Veau à la Ravigote.

Four calves’ tails are quite sufficient for an entrée, procure them as large and as white as possible; cut them in pieces an inch and a quarter in length, and put them into a stewpan, with a quart of good white stock, two onions, half a carrot, head of celery, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; set on the fire to boil, skim, and place it at the corner to simmer for two hours, or until the tails are done, which you can tell by pressing them with your finger, drain them on a cloth, lay a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your entrée dish, stand the larger pieces perpendicularly upon it, then again other pieces upon them, till they form a pyramid; have ready a good ravigote sauce (No. 44), rather highly seasoned, which pour over and serve; the sauce should be thick enough to adhere to the pieces.

No. 670. Queues de Veau à la Poulette.

Cook and dress the tails as before, and sauce as directed for turban de tête de veau à la poulette (No. 663).

No. 671. Of Sweetbreads.

The middle-sized heart-breads are to be preferred to the over large or small, the throat-bread is rarely used to dress and serve whole, but may be served in blanquettes, vol-au-vents, or ragouts. Sweetbreads cannot be too white, if red when brought in leave them four or five hours in warm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan well covered with water to blanch, (if you put them in cold water they will be blanched enough as soon as the water begins to boil), throw them a minute in cold water, then lay them on a dish face downwards, place the bottom of another dish upon them, on which place a four pounds weight, they are then ready for use where directed; three sweetbreads are sufficient for an entrée if rather large, and four if small.

No. 672. Ris de Veau à la Santa Cruz.

Take three good sweetbreads, blanch as directed, then lard them (with very thin strips of fat bacon an inch and a half in length) from top to bottom an inch and a half in width, and again from one side to the other to form a cross; have thirty-six pieces of truffles cut in the shape of cloves, but much thicker and rather longer, (twelve for each sweetbread), make a hole with a larding-needle in the centre of the cross in which place a piece of the truffle, proceeding in like manner in the centre of the bacon at equal distances apart, cover the bottom of a flat stewpan with fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads upon it, cover the bottom of the stewpan about the depth of two inches with stock, place it over the fire till the stock boils, put it in the oven about half an hour will be sufficient to cook them, (but that depends upon their size and the heat of the oven,) try them with a larding-needle, if quite tender through they are done; but if soft in the middle and toughish leave them a little longer, glaze them lightly and salamander a nice gold colour, drain them on a cloth and have ready the following sauce: blanch one ounce of riband macaroni in water till tender, dry, and put it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and two of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a piece of glaze, reduce till rather thick, then add twenty heads of mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; season with a little sugar and cayenne, pour the sauce in your dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve very hot.

No. 673. Ris de Veau piqué à la Turque.

Blanch four small heart-sweetbreads as directed, and lard them nicely from end to end lengthwise, with fat bacon an inch and a half in length, and breadth in proportion, braise as directed in the last; have ready a ring of forcemeat (No. 120) made in a round plain mould[7] well buttered, with a round piece of bread in the centre; lay the forcemeat round the bread an inch and a half in thickness, place the mould in a stewpan of boiling water, (but do not let the water get into the mould), place the stewpan over the fire till the forcemeat is set, then take it out, detach the bread from the centre and turn out the forcemeat, which will be a complete ring, place it on the dish, cut each of the sweetbreads in halves and dress them upon it, the cut part towards the middle; then have ready blanched half a pound of good rice as directed (No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little saffron powder, pepper, salt, and sugar; mix all together and dress in pyramid in the centre, place a fine (dressed) cockscomb between each half sweetbread, sauce over the rice with sauce au suprème (No. 57), glaze the sweetbreads and serve.

No. 674. Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before; have ready a ragout à la financière (No. 50), which pour in the dish, dress your sweetbreads over, glaze lightly and serve.

No. 675. Ris de Veau piqué à la purée d’asperges.

Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before, but keep them a more delicate colour and drain them well upon a cloth; when you take them from the stewpan have ready a purée of asparagus (No. 102), which pour into the dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve.

Larded sweetbreads may be also served with a truffle sauce (No. 51), Palestine, jardinière, aux concombres, dressed spinach, or endive (see Nos. 87, 100, 103, 106, and 119.)

No. 676. Ris de Veau rôti.

Heart-sweetbreads are also preferable for roasting, although the throat-breads may be used; blanch as before and let them cool, place them in a stewpan, with two onions, two cloves, a blade of mace, a carrot, quarter of a pound of lean ham, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover with a good stock, and place them on the fire to boil twenty minutes, take them out, dry on a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them twice over, then run a long flat skewer through them lengthwise, which tie up on a spit, roast before a fierce fire till they become a nice light brown, keeping them basted with butter; pass the stock they were boiled in through a sieve into another stewpan, boil and skim well, place the sweetbreads in a dish, pour some of the stock round and serve; it may also be served with sauce piquante, poivrade, or tomata (Nos. 27, 32, 37).

No. 677. Caisse de ris de Veau à la Ninon de l’Enclos.

Roast four sweetbreads as directed in the last, and let them remain till cold, then open and empty them, thus making a case, leaving it a quarter of an inch in thickness; cut up what you have taken from them in slices, have also twenty small pieces of cucumber, prepared as directed for sauce (No. 103), put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a very small piece of butter, pass over the fire a few minutes, but keep them quite white, then add three parts of a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little milk, reduce till thickish, keeping it stirred, add the sweetbread and cucumber, season with a little sugar and salt, and when it boils add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream; do not let it boil afterwards, fill the cases and cover the opening with a little very thick fritter butter (No. 1285), place them in a sharp oven, and as soon as the batter is baked sufficient, dress them on your dish, three at the bottom and one on the top; serve with a thin bechamel sauce (No. 7) under.

No. 678. Escalopes de Ris de Veau au suprème.

Blanch three sweetbreads twenty minutes, and when cold cut each bread into four slices lengthwise, and trim in the shape of fillets of fowl, well butter the bottom of a sauté-pan, lay in the escalopes, keeping them in their shapes, season over with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place over a slow fire, ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them; when done on one side turn, keep them quite white, lay them on a cloth to drain, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; serve with a sauce au suprème (No. 57) poured over.

No. 679. Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux pointes d’asperges.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the last, and serve a sauce aux pointes d’asperges (No. 101) in the centre.

No. 680. Escalopes de Ris de Veau à l’Indienne.

Dress three sweetbreads as in the two last, but keep them rather underdone; when cold egg and bread-crumb them twice over, put six spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when hot lay in the escalopes, which fry a nice light brown colour, dress in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a nice white Indian sauce (No. 45) in the centre, previously glazing the escalopes lightly.

No. 681. Escalopes de Ris de Veau en caisses.

Blanch four throat-sweetbreads, and cut them in slices one size larger and three times the thickness of a shilling, butter the bottom of a sauté-pan and put in two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, lay the pieces of sweetbread over, season with a little salt and pepper, and place them over a slow fire; when done add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), a little glaze, half a pint of broth, a little powdered sugar and grated nutmeg; let simmer altogether ten minutes, moving them round by shaking the sauté-pan, have six or eight small paper boxes, or cases, fill each of them three parts full with the above, egg the top with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes, pass the salamander over, dress them in pyramid on your dish, and serve with plenty of fried parsley.

No. 682. Atelettes de Ris de Veau.

Prepare the sweetbreads precisely as in the last, but add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have six silver skewers (atelettes), and run six or eight pieces of sweetbread upon each, with as much sauce as possible adhering to them, smooth round with a knife, dip them in eggs well beaten in a basin, then into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, dip them again into the bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard, dress them as described for atelettes de palates de bœuf (No. 655), and serve a sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.

No. 683. Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux truffes.

Blanch three throat-sweetbreads twenty minutes, cut them in slices the size and double the thickness of half-crown-pieces, cut also into thin slices six good-sized truffles, then put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a convenient-sized stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes over a sharp fire, keeping them quite white, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce three minutes, then add the sweetbread and truffles, season with a little salt and sugar, simmer gently five minutes, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, pour it out in your dish and garnish with eight large triangular croutons of bread (in the form of a star) fried in butter, which glaze and serve.

No. 684. Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau.

Make a vol-au-vent as directed (No. 1140), cook two sweetbreads with truffles as in the last, and when ready to serve fill your vol-au-vent, which glaze lightly and serve very hot.

Sweetbreads may also be served either in blanquettes or vol-au-vents, with cucumbers, stewed mushrooms, slices of tongue or ham, instead of truffles.

No. 685. Of Tendrons de Veau.

For one entrée you will require the tendrons from two breasts of veal, which are cut out without injuring the breasts, and afterwards stewed (see breast of veal in the Removes); tie the two tendrons together and put them in a deep stewpan, with two carrots, four onions, six cloves, a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover with a second stock, place them on the fire, and when boiling draw it on the corner, skim, and let stew gently for six or seven hours; when done (which you may ascertain by running the point of your knife through them, if tender they are done, if not stew them till they are,) lay them on a dish, take away the string, pull out the small bones which may remain, and place another dish of the same size upon them, on which place a seven pounds weight; when quite cold and set, cut twelve pieces out of them either of an oval or diamond shape, but not too large, egg and bread-crumb the sides but not the edges twice over, and fry them gently of a light-brown colour in a sauté-pan. Serve with any of the sauces directed for the sweetbreads.

No. 686. Tendrons de Veau à la Noble Dame.

Prepare two tendrons as before, and when quite cold cut out twelve pieces of any shape you please, but one third less than in the previous article, put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of white stock and two of chopped mushrooms; reduce till thick enough to cover the back of the spoon, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, take your pieces of tendrons one at a time with a fork, dip them in the sauce so that they are covered on every part, and lay them on a dish to get cold; have ready some fritter batter (No. 1285), dip each piece of tendron with as much sauce as adheres to it, and fry in very hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, fill the centre with fried watercresses, for sauce put a gill of cream in a stewpan, and when boiling add two pats of butter and a little salt; when the butter is quite melted sauce round and serve.

No. 687. Tendrons de Veau à la Dauphine.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but instead of dipping them in the batter, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard of a fine yellow colour; serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) poured round.

No. 688. Cotelettes de Veau piqué aux petits pois.

Veal cotelettes require to be cut from the neck in the same shape as mutton cutlets, four are sufficient for an entrée, they must be very nicely larded on one side, like a sweetbread, braise in the same kind of manner until very tender, glaze lightly, and salamander of a light-brown colour; have ready boiled a pint of young peas, which put in a stewpan, with two pats of butter, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream, pour into the dish and dress the cotelettes over in a square, glaze lightly and serve; dressed in the above manner they may also be served with sauce à la jardinière, aux navets au brun, aux pointes d’asperges, aux concombres, sauce poivrade, or sauce tomate.

No. 689. Cotelettes de Veau en papillote.

Cut six small veal cotelettes, do not lard them, put six tablespoonfols of oil in a sauté-pan, in which fry the cotelettes; when done pour off a little of the oil, put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped mushrooms, and twenty of brown sauce (No. 1) seasoned rather high, moisten with a little stock and simmer altogether twenty minutes, place the cotelettes on a dish in the sauce to get cold, cut six pieces of paper in the shape of hearts, oil them, and put a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible around, fold each one up, plaiting it at the edges, broil them twenty minutes over a slow fire, and dress them in a circle on your dish without removing the papers.

No. 690. Cotelettes de Veau à la Sans Façon.

Cut four large cotelettes, which season well, dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, in which you have mixed some finely chopped eschalots and parsley, beat them with your knife, dip them into warm clarified butter, and again into the bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and broil them nicely over a sharp fire; have in a stewpan six or eight well boiled mealy potatoes, add four pats of butter and a little pepper and salt, mash them well with a fork, adding a gill of cream by degrees, mixing quickly they will be very light, dress them in a pyramid on your dish, glaze the cotelettes, which stand upright against the potatoes, and serve; this is an excellent dish for luncheon.

No. 691. Noix de Veau for Entrées.

Are prepared exactly in the same manner as described for the flancs (No. 565), only they are not required so large, half the noix being quite sufficient, that is, cut into two slices, trim it of a nice shape, lard, dress, and serve, with the sauces as described for the flancs.

No. 692. Grenadins de Veau piqué aux racines nouvelles.

Cut twelve fillets from a noix de veau the size and shape of fillets of fowl, lard them nicely with very finely cut bacon, cover the bottom of a convenient-sized sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, upon which lay the grenadins, add a little veal stock but not enough to cover them, place a sheet of buttered paper over and stand them in a moderate oven for an hour or till tender, moistening occasionally with a little of the stock; when done glaze them lightly and salamander of a light colour, then have prepared twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, which cook as directed (No. 109), dish the grenadins in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, place a pyramid of the potatoes in the centre of the dish, upon which dress the carrots and turnips in rotation; have ready the following sauce: put the glaze from your vegetables in a stewpan, with half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and a little good stock, place it on the fire, skim, and reduce until rather thick; sauce over your vegetables and serve.

Grenadins may be served with any of the sauces as described for noix de veau or sweetbreads.

No: 693. Of Veal Kidneys.

The kidney being part of the loin is usually served with it, and a loin of veal roasted without it would be considered worthless, but still the loins may be dressed, as directed in the Removes, without the kidneys; to stew them proceed as follows: cut three kidneys into thin slices, put an ounce of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, place over the fire, and just as it begins to get brown throw in the kidneys, stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon, and when they become firm add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir it in, then add a glass of sherry, eight spoonfuls of broth, and twenty mushrooms, let all boil together five minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of half a lemon, if too thick add more broth, pour them on a dish and serve, or they would look better served in a croustade of bread (No. 416) fried a nice yellow colour.

No. 694. Veal Kidneys en Caisses.

Proceed exactly as described for ris de veau en caisses (No. 681).

No. 695. Boudin de Veau à la Legumière.

Make two pounds of veal forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the sides of a plain round mould with vegetables, precisely as directed for a Chartreuse (No. 604), then cut a piece of bread quite round, the depth of the mould, cover the bread with white buttered paper, and stand it in the centre of the mould,[8] leaving the space of an inch and a half all round, which fill up with the forcemeat, being careful not to disarrange the vegetables; when well filled, put the mould in a stewpan, cover with a piece of stiff paper, put water enough in the stewpan to come three parts of the way up the mould, place the stewpan over the fire and let it simmer gently (keeping it covered) nearly an hour, turn it out on your dish, take the bread and paper from the centre, sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and serve.

No. 696. Boudin de Veau à la Richelieu.

Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, have five or six good-sized truffles chopped very fine, throw them in the mould, which roll round until the sides are quite covered with them; then prepare a piece of bread as in the last, fill the space up with the same forcemeat, blanch it in a stewpan as before, turn out on your dish, take away the bread, and serve with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) over it.

No. 697. Of Mutton for Entreés.

For entrées the small South Down mutton is much to be preferred, the principal entrées made from mutton are cotelettes, which never will be out of vogue; I shall therefore give a numerous list of receipts for the dressing of them, but the manner of cutting them requires particular attention; the most simple method is to take the chine-bone off from the neck neatly with a saw, but not quite detaching all the meat from the bone, then cut it into chops, leaving a bone to each; with a knife cut off the skinny part from each side of the bone and a piece of the meat at the end of the bone, so as to leave a piece of bone about half an inch in length, then with a cotelette-bat beat them nearly to the same thickness as the bone, take the rough parts of the bone off with your chopper, and trim the cotelettes of a good shape, taking off a greater part of the fat and rounding the lean part nicely; but in cutting cotelettes to look well, much depends upon the taste of the person, they require to be cut some time previous to cooking, or they would shrink and loose their shape.

No. 698. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Reform.

Chop a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham very fine,

Mutton Cutlet
Pork Cutlet
Lamb Cutlet

and mix it with the same quantity of bread-crumbs, then have ten very nice cotelettes, lay them flat on your table, season lightly with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into the ham and bread-crumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, put ten spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot lay in the cotelettes, fry nearly ten minutes (over a moderate fire) of a light brown colour; to ascertain when done, press your knife upon the thick part, if quite done it will feel rather firm; possibly they may not all be done at one time, so take out those that are ready first and lay them on a cloth till the others are done; as they require to be cooked with the gravy in them, dress upon a thin border of mashed potatoes in a crown, with the bones pointing outwards, sauce over with a pint of the sauce reform (No. 35), and serve. If for a large dinner you may possibly be obliged to cook the cotelettes half an hour before, in which case they must be very underdone, and laid in a clean sauté-pan, with two or three spoonfuls of thin glaze; keep them in the hot closet, moistening them occasionally with the glaze (with a paste-brush) until ready to serve; the same remark applies to every description of cotelettes.

No. 699. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse.

Cut, bread-crumb, and fry ten mutton cotelettes as in the last, but let them be rather underdone, then have ready six large quenelles of veal (No. 120) quite cold, mash them in a basin with a wooden spoon, then add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, two of chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg, with a tablespoonful of cold white sauce (No. 7) and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together, and put a piece of the size of a walnut upon each cotelette, spread it even, then have ten thin small slices of cooked ham, place a slice upon each cotelette, which again cover with the forcemeat, forming a flattish dome, but not too thick; egg over with a paste-brush, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put again into the sauté-pan, and place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, salamander a light colour, dress in crown on a thin border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar from India pickles, and a little lemon-juice, stir it quickly over the fire with a wooden spoon until beginning to thicken, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) with four of milk, stir over the fire, but do not let it boil, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stir it another minute over the fire, sauce over, have two firm green India pickles and half an ounce of lean cooked ham chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve very hot.

No. 700. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Westphalienne.

Prepare ten cotelettes as in the last, mixing chopped Westphalia ham with the bread-crumbs instead of the common ham, likewise sprinkling ham over the forcemeat instead of bread-crumbs, place them in the oven as before, and salamander a nice colour, dress in crown as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: pound a quarter of a pound of lean Westphalia cooked ham very fine, add two ounces of butter and pass it through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; reduce and skim till becoming a good demi-glace, add two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, a little sugar, and the butter with the ham, stir over the fire until the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 701. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Provençale.

Have ready ten cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg with a paste-brush, and dip them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife and fry in oil, but very much underdone, lay them on a cloth, and have ready the following: chop six middling-sized onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes, keeping stirred with a wooden spoon, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and four tablespoonfuls of good stock, boil altogether a quarter of an hour or till the onions are quite tender, season with a little pepper, salt, and nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, draw the stewpan off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs, place over the fire another minute, pour it out on a dish to get cold, place a piece the size of a large walnut upon each cotelette, spread it over with a knife, leaving it thickest in the middle; egg them with a paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, drop a little oil on each, put them in the same sauté-pan, place in the oven ten minutes, salamander a light brown, and dress them on your dish as before; have ready the following sauce: put nearly a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and eight spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134); reduce and skim well till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas, sauce over and serve; more garlic may be added if approved of.

No. 702. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Bohémienne.

Have twelve good cotelettes well-trimmed, lay them in a basin and pour a quart of good marinade hot over them (see filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne, No. 426), let them remain four or five days, turning them occasionally; when wanted take them out, dry on a cloth, dip in flour and broil them quickly over a sharp fire, dress in crown like the cotelettes reform, and have ready the following sauce: a gill of the marinade in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), six of brown sauce, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce till it becomes half glaze again, then add a spoonful of red-currant jelly, three anchovies well washed, and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, also twenty pieces of gherkins cut in the same shape, let warm in the sauce, which pour over and serve. The cotelettes may be bread-crumbed if required.

No. 703. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise.

Prepare twelve cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them in clarified butter in a sauté-pan, dress on your dish as before, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) under, glaze lightly when dressing them on your dish.

No. 704. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Durcelle.

Egg, bread-crumb, and fry twelve cotelettes in oil, when done take out and lay them on a cloth, put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and two of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them a light brown colour, pour off as much oil as possible, add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a little consommé, let boil quickly ten minutes, then add a little sugar, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same of chopped parsley, and one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, put the cotelettes into the sauce to get hot, have ready four paper cases six inches long, lay three cotelettes in each, pour the sauce over, place them in a moderate oven ten minutes, dress on your dish in the cases and serve immediately.

No. 705. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petites racines.

Prepare and fry twelve cotelettes as directed for cotelettes à la Soubise, dress in crown and proceed as for the grenadins de veau (No. 692), glaze them lightly and serve.

No. 706. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce piquante.

Dress the cotelettes as above, glaze lightly and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) over them.

No. 707. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Jardinière.

Dress twelve cotelettes as before described, dish as usual, have ready a sauce jardinière (No. 100), place the vegetables, and sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes lightly, and serve.

No. 708. Cotelettes de Mouton aux champignons.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, reduce it a little, and skim; then add thirty mushrooms, season with a little pepper and sugar, add a small piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, and boil altogether ten minutes; pour the sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.

No. 709. Cotelettes de Mouton aux navets au brun.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, have prepared forty scoops of turnips, each the size of a marble, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over a fire ten minutes, keeping them tossed, to prevent their burning, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and half a do. of consommé, stand it on the corner of the stove, skim well, and let it remain till the turnips are tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick; then pour it in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the turnips be done before the sauce is thick, take them out with a colander spoon until it has sufficiently reduced.

No. 710. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Palestine.

Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as before, have ready the following sauce: scoop forty scoops of Jerusalem artichokes the size of the turnips in the last, and proceed exactly the same, using white sauce (No. 7), and white stock instead of brown, and finishing with a good tablespoonful of liaison; serve as before; they must not be boiled too quickly, or they will break to pieces.

No. 711. Cotelettes de Mouton aux pointes d’asperges.

Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, have ready boiled, very green, half a bundle of sprue grass cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with four of white stock in a stewpan, and when a little reduced add the sprue, with half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt; let boil a minute, and finish with a liaison of half a yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, sauce in the centre of the cotelettes, which glaze lightly, and serve. When sprue grass is cheap, dress it thus for cotelettes: you have cut and boiled a bunch very green; drain it upon a sieve, and whilst hot put them into a stewpan, with six pats of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and the half of one of sugar; place over the fire, stirring round gently until the butter is melted, then dress them in a pyramid in the centre of the cotelettes, pour a thin bechamel sauce round, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. By this simple method you retain the full flavour of the grass.

No. 712. Cotelettes de Mouton aux haricots verts.

Proceed exactly as before, using some French beans cut in diamonds and nicely boiled, instead of the sprue grass, dress the beans in either of the above methods.

No. 713. Cotelettes de Mouton aux petits pois.

Dress and dish your cotelettes as usual, have ready, nicely boiled, a pint of young peas (No. 1075) which put in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, two spoonfuls of white sauce, a bunch of green onions, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt; keep them moving over the fire by shaking the stewpan till they are quite hot; take out the onions, finish with a liaison of a yolk of egg and two tablespoonfuls of cream, dress the peas in the centre, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. The peas may also be dressed in either of the methods directed in the two last.

No. 714. Cotelettes de Mouton aux chouxfleurs.

Dress the cotelettes as before, have nicely boiled two small cauliflowers, put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt; divide each cauliflower into eight pieces, and when the sauce boils add them to it, finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and serve as before. The cauliflower must not be too much done, or it would break to pieces.

No. 715. Cotelettes de Mouton aux truffes.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a little consommé, and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon; have six middling-sized preserved truffles cut in thin slices, which throw into the sauce whilst boiling, season with a little sugar, boil all together a few minutes, glaze the cotelettes, sauce over, and serve.

No. 716. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maintenon.

Have twelve cotelettes nicely cut, lay them on the table and season lightly, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, lay in your cotelettes, and fry over a moderate fire till three parts done, take them out, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan; fry till of a light brown colour, pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with a little consommé, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, a little sugar, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; reduce till rather thick, then throw in the cotelettes for a few minutes, turn out on a dish, and leave them to get cold in the sauce; have twelve pieces of white paper, each cut in the shape of a heart and large enough to fold a cotelette in, rub a little oil over, and place a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible; fold them up, and broil ten minutes over a moderate fire, dress them in a crown on your dish, without taking them out of the papers, which must well cover the cotelettes, or they would be very dry.

No. 717. Cotelettes de Mouton sauce remoulade.

Dress twelve cotelettes as for sauce Soubise (No. 703), then put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with three of veal stock or consommé, place it over the fire, and when boiling add an equal quantity of sauce tartare (No. 38) stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce under, and serve.

No. 718. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Financière.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before, and serve the ragout à la financière (No. 50) in the centre, only observe that the garniture must be very small, or it would look clumsy with such an entrée as cotelettes.

For cotelettes de mouton à l’Italienne, ditto, sauce poivrades, ditto, aux fines herbes, and ditto, aux jus d’échalotte, dress the cotelettes as usual, and sauce over with either of the above-named sauces (see Nos. 30, 32, 26 and 27).

No. 719. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Proceed with the cotelettes as before described, then put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of cream and two of broth; when boiling add one ounce of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), shake the stewpan round till the butter melts, then pour the sauce under the cotelettes; have ready some fried potatoes very crisp, cut thin, and of the size of six penny-pieces, which build in pyramid in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 720. Cotelettes de Mouton à la Hollandaise.

Proceed precisely as for the last, only using some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) instead of the sauce maître d’hôtel, fried potatoes the same. For the two last entrées the sauce must not be too thick.

No. 721. Cotelettes de Mouton panée, grillée.

Prepare twelve nice cotelettes, which season nicely, egg and bread-crumb them, beat lightly with a knife, have some hot clarified butter in a stewpan, dip each cotelette in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and place them on the gridiron over a moderate fire, turning them now and then, ten minutes will be sufficient, dress in crown with a little plain gravy, or with any of the foregoing sauces.

No. 722. Of Cotelettes braised.

Braised cotelettes are much more in vogue in France than in England, for in the former they prefer meat stewed, whilst in the latter the meat is more succulent and tender, and even for Soubise or Provençale the cotelette sauté is preferred, although properly they ought to be braised; I shall, therefore, describe the manner of braising them and leave the choice to my readers.

Prepare a neck of mutton by cutting off the chine-bone, and cut the cotelettes as before, but let them remain nearly of the same thickness you cut them from the neck, which will be nearly an inch, then stick five or six pieces of fat bacon about the size of a quill through the lean of each cotelette, cutting off the ends, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon and lay twelve cotelettes over, all laying on the same side, just cover them with stock, to which add an onion, three cloves, and a bunch of parsley, place a sheet of buttered paper over them, and place them over a slow fire to simmer between two and three hours, try them and if very tender place them upon an oval dish, with a little of their stock, place another dish over them upon which put a seven pounds weight; when quite cold trim nicely of equal sizes and put them in a sauté-pan with their stock to warm, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47), or any other sauce as directed for the cotelettes sautés. Although these cotelettes are required to be tender they must not be too much done or the bones would fall from them.

No. 723. Cotelettes de Mouton braisé à la Marseillaise.

Cook your cotelettes as directed in the last, but cut them rather small; when cold cover all over with the preparation of onion as for cotelettes à la Provençale, egg and bread-crumb all over and place them in the oven for a quarter of an hour, dress in crown, previously giving them a nice colour with a salamander, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) much thinned, with cream under them.

No. 724. Carbonade of Mutton.

Prepare a loin of mutton as a carbonade (see flancs No. 577), and when cold cut it in slices rather more than half an inch in thickness, reduce the stock the carbonade was boiled in to a thin glaze, put the slices in a sauté-pan and pour it over them, place them over a slow fire till quite hot, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with any of the sauces named for cotelettes.

No. 725. Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante.

Braise and press a breast of mutton as directed (No. 487), and when cold cut ten pieces out of it in the shape of cotelettes, one third fat and two thirds lean, but not too large, egg, bread-crumb, and broil as for cotelettes panées grillées (No. 721), dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, glaze and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) in the centre. They may also be served with sauce Soubise (No. 47), poivrade (No. 32), jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or fines herbes (No. 26).

No. 726. Rognons de Mouton à la brochette.

Mutton kidneys dressed in this manner are usually served for breakfast or luncheon, but they may be served as an entrée for dinner. Procure nine fresh kidneys, cut them open and run silver or wooden skewers through to keep them open, season well, egg over with a paste-brush, and dip them into a dish of bread-crumbs, broil over a moderate fire, about ten minutes will be sufficient; when done dress them on your dish in pyramid, place a piece of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in each, half the size of a walnut, place them in the oven two minutes, glaze lightly and serve very hot.

No. 727. Rognons à la Tartare.

Broil nine kidneys as above, and serve with a good sauce à la tartare (No. 38) under them.

No. 728. Rognons de Mouton à la Vénitienne.

Cut ten fresh kidneys in halves the long way, take off the skins and cut out the roots, or they would shrink in cooking; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, place the pan on the fire and as soon as the butter melts place in the kidneys, fry about five minutes, and when half done turn them, dress them in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and put them somewhere to keep hot; pour as much of the butter as possible from the sauté-pan, and put in a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six spoonfuls of consommé; boil altogether ten minutes, then add half an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78) and the juice of half a lemon, mix it well in, sauce over the kidneys and serve.

No. 729. Rognons de Mouton sauté au vin de champagne.

Skin eight kidneys and cut them into thin slices, put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter begins to brown throw in the kidneys, stir round with a wooden spoon and when they become firm add a small tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add two wineglasses of champagne with two of white broth and twenty blanched mushrooms; let all boil very gently a few minutes, season with the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour them out on your dish and serve. The sauce requires to be rather thick, sherry or hock may be used instead of champagne.

No. 730. Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette.

Proceed as directed for the flanc (No. 630) and serve them in a small casserole of rice, according to the size of your entrée dish.

No. 731. Pieds de Mouton à la purée d’oignons.

Cook the feet as directed (No. 630), and have ready prepared the following purée: peel and cut in dice four large onions, which put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter over the fire, keeping them stirred with a wooden spoon till tender, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, a pint of milk and a little broth, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, keep boiling till the onions are quite done, then put in the feet, which let simmer a few minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir well, and place it over the fire a minute, keeping it stirred to thicken, serve either on a dish or in a casserole of rice (No. 626). They require to be seasoned rather highly.