SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME.
For the roasts, second course, in my Kitchen at Home, I must refer my readers to that series in the other department of this work, as it is impossible to explain them more simply; so also for the various methods of dressing vegetables (there so fully explained), from the most expensive to the most simple; and, to avoid repetition, pass over those two series in the second course, and commence a short series of simplified second-course dishes, with a few plain salads.
No. 230. Salad of Cold Meat. This salad in France is very much in vogue, and very frequently made with the remains of meat from the pot-au-feu, but any meat, either roasted, boiled, or stewed, may be used.
Cut your meat in slices (with a little of the fat) about the size of half-a-crown, place them upon a dish, with three eschalots chopped very finely, a spoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, and a little salt and pepper, pour six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil and two of vinegar over, toss well together without breaking the meat, and serve either in a salad-bowl or upon another dish; the above proportion is for a pound of meat.
Another method is to have as many slices of cold potatoes as of meat, cut the same size, and after well seasoning the whole, dress them alternately round the dish, one resting upon the other; mix two spoonfuls of oil with one of vinegar, which pour over and serve. Spring onions, slices of beet-root, and radishes, may also be introduced. The remains of poultry may also be dressed in a similar manner.
No. 231. Lobster Salad. Break up a lobster, obtaining as much of the flesh as possible, which cut into slices, have likewise two hard-boiled eggs also in slices, two anchovies filleted, and two cabbage lettuces, or any other salad cut up small; mix the whole well together with a fork in a basin, season with half a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, a little pepper and salt, six spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar; when well mixed, turn the whole into a salad-bowl and serve. Crab may be dressed precisely the same.
No. 232. Fish Salads are also very good, and may be made with the remains of John Doree, turbot, salmon, or brill; fillets of soles sauted in butter, when cold, also make excellent salads.
Cut the fish into rather thin slices, have also two young cos lettuces, which separate into leaves and cut lengthwise; add a few leaves of tarragon, a little chervil, season with a little pepper and salt, six or eight spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar, or according to taste; mix well together, turn into a salad-bowl and serve. The above salads are excellent for dinner upon a hot summer’s day.
No. 233. Potato Salad. Peel and cut ten middling-sized cold potatoes into slices, and put them into a salad-bowl, season with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of chopped eschalots, the same of chopped parsley, six spoonfuls of oil, and two of vinegar; toss all well together without breaking the potatoes, and serve. Cold haricot beans, French beans, and lentils are also excellent dressed in the above method.
No. 234. Plain Salad à la Française. Throughout France, but in France only, this simple style of dressing a salad is fully appreciated, the sight of which refreshes the eyes and revives the appetite; I never heard (in France) any one say, after a copious dinner, this is too much and useless, but, on the contrary, every one reserves, if not an appetite, at least the shade of one, for the approaching salad, the simplicity of its seasoning and its trifling expense principally causing it to be thus popular and so freely partaken of. I have never given a small party at home, but my guests have been at all times anxious to partake of my French salad, which I simply make as follows:
I procure a quantity of salad of any description the most in season (all descriptions of salad being dressed in the same manner, one receipt will do for the whole), but my favorite salad being endive, that is the one I shall here describe.
Take four or five heads of very white endive, detach all the green leaves, and wash each head well in a pail of cold water, but not leaving them in the water, or they would eat quite bitter, which, for my own part, I do not much object to, but many persons do; when clean, cut each head in halves down the centre, cut off the roots, which throw away, lay the endive in the centre of a clean cloth, which take by the four corners and shake until the salad is perfectly dry; then put it into a convenient-sized salad-bowl, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of salad-oil, and one of tarragon and chervil chopped very fine, then stir up lightly with a spoon and fork, and when well mixed let the guests help themselves.
Another method of dressing an endive salad, which, in the opinion of the generality of my guests, is the most preferable in point of flavour, is to rub the salad-bowl with a piece of fresh peeled garlic, then lay in the salad; have three or four pieces of crust of bread, about the size of shillings, let each be well rubbed with the garlic, season and stir well together as before.
Should any ladies, however, be going to partake of it, the bowl and crusts must not be so much rubbed, as too strong a flavour might be objectionable: this last receipt is only applicable to endive, every other salad, such as cos or cabbage lettuce, is plainly dressed as in the first receipt, adding more or less seasoning, or tarragon and chervil; a dozen of green spring onions is also an improvement to a salad.
To make a profitable family salad, a certain quantity of cold roast, stewed, or boiled meat (which you might have remaining) or poultry might be introduced in either of the above salads, having previously cut it into slices; you may also introduce a couple of hard-boiled eggs, cut in rings, with slices of beet-root, cucumbers, ripe tomatas, or even cold potatoes, but then a little more vinegar must be added: from such a salad a small family may in the summer months make an excellent meal.
No. 235. Jelly of various kind of Fruits. Having but little time to make very bright jellies at home, I usually simply make them as directed in the few following receipts—they are excellent and full of flavour: when in a hurry, I generally use isinglass, but at other times boil three calf’s feet, or two cow heels, in a gallon of water, and when well done pass the liquor through a sieve into a basin, and clarify the next day, by taking off every particle of fat, and putting it into a stewpan; place upon the fire, and when boiling, add a pint of water, with which you have whipped the whites of six eggs, mixing the juice of four lemons and two ounces of lump sugar; keep whisking over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when take from the fire, place the cover upon the stewpan, with a little live charcoal, or a few live cinders upon the top, let stand twenty minutes, when pour it through a jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through in again, until running quite clear, when all has passed through, pour it into a stewpan, and reduce it over a sharp fire to about a quart, when put it by for use, instead of isinglass, where indicated.
No. 236. Orange Jelly. The bountiful supply and cheapness of this delicious fruit will enable almost any person to partake of this excellent entremet.
Procure ten middling-sized oranges and two lemons, take the rind from three of the oranges and one of the lemons, as thinly as possible, which put into a basin, put a sieve over, through which squeeze the juice of the oranges and lemons, then put half a pound of sugar in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of water, and let boil until becoming a very thick syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan for a few moments, when again place it over the fire; as soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add two glasses of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let boil another minute, when add an ounce and a quarter of isinglass, dissolved as directed (page 592), pass the whole through a jelly bag or fine cloth, and add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint; when fill a mould, which place in two or three pounds of ice until set quite firm and ready to serve, when dip the mould in hot water to the rim, wipe the exterior, turn over upon your dish, lifting the mould straight, but gently off from the jelly.
As the sizes of the oranges very much fluctuate, and some produce more juice than others, it would be better to try a little jelly in a spoon upon ice, to ascertain if of the proper strength, before filling your mould. If handy, the same quantity, or a little more, of reduced calf’s foot jelly, as in the last, may be used instead of isinglass.
No. 237. Whipped Orange Jelly. This makes a very pleasing variation, without incurring any additional expense, being merely when the jelly is passed to put it in a bowl, which place upon ice, and commence whipping the jelly until upon the point of setting, when pour it quickly into your mould, which place upon ice until ready to serve, when dip the mould into warm water and turn the jelly out. Orange jelly, as directed in either of the last two, may also be served in the skins of the oranges by proceeding as directed (page 522), and serving them upon a napkin with laurel-leaves between, in the same manner as oranges for a dessert. The remainder of an orange jelly may be melted again, poured into glass custard cups, set upon ice, and served upon another occasion, if sufficient; the remains of a clear one might be whipped and poured again into the mould.
No. 238. Lemon Jelly. Proceed precisely the same as directed for orange, but omitting the oranges, and using the juice of eight and the rind of two lemons; this jelly requires to be kept quite white, and may be served either turned out of a mould, or in glasses, but not in the skin of the fruit, it being too bitter; half a pint of bucellas wine may be added to the above.
No. 239. Currant and Raspberry Jelly. Procure two pounds of fresh currants and a good handful of raspberries, which place in a clean cloth over a basin, fold the cloth up, and press the juice through it with your hands, then add two or three wineglassfuls of cold water, and pass the whole through a jelly bag, make a thick syrup from three quarters of a pound of sugar, to which add two ounces of dissolved isinglass (or sufficient calf’s foot jelly), mix the whole well together; when the syrup is a little cool, taste if palatable, place a little upon some ice, and if strong enough, fill your mould, which place in ice until quite set and ready to serve, when turn it out as before directed.
No. 240. Strawberry Jelly. Put a pint of water in a stewpan to boil, have ready picked a basket of fresh strawberries, and when the water is boiling throw them in, let simmer a minute, add the juice of a lemon, place the lid upon the stewpan, and stand by until half cold, when run the jelly through a napkin or jelly bag, make a syrup, and add the isinglass as above, but using less sugar, finish precisely as in the last.
Either of the last two jellies are, for a change, also very excellent whipped as directed for the orange jelly. It is almost needless to mention that when calf’s foot jelly is used, not quite so much sugar will be required as if only the isinglass.