MANIPULATION AND USES OF BAR AND FRAME HIVES.
AVING, at [page 84], given a description of the mechanical arrangements of bar and frame hives, the next thing is, to describe the mode of introducing the bees, and of thus bringing the humane and scientific hives into operation. The swarm should be first hived into a common straw hive from the bough or shrub upon which they may have alighted; place this hive, into which we will suppose the bees have been shaken, on the ground, propped up on one side with a brick or a flower-pot, or anything of the sort that may be handy, in order that straggler-bees may join the swarm. The spot selected for this should be as shady an one as can be found, near to the place where the swarm settled; or it may be shaded from the rays of the sun by fixing matting on two poles, so as to prevent the heat falling on the hive; spread a sheet or cloth on the ground where an even surface can be obtained; stake this sheet down at the four corners, to prevent ruts and inequalities, which are great hindrances to the bees going into the bar and frame hive; place the latter upon the sheet, without its floor-board, having its front raised on blocks or sticks rather more than an inch,—not more, otherwise the bees will cluster, and attach themselves to the lower part of the frames, instead of going up between. These preparations will, perhaps, occupy ten minutes, by which time the swarm will have become settled and tolerably quiet. Then, with a sharp rap, precipitate the bees out of the straw hive on to the sheet immediately in front of the frame hive; give the straw hive another knock, so as to dislodge all the bees, and then take it quite away, otherwise they may, if it be left near, perversely choose to go into that, instead of the one desired. In some cases, as when the swarm has to be brought from a distance and procured from a cottager about whose skill in carrying out these directions there may be misgivings, it is best to give instructions that the swarm be brought home after sunset, and then the foregoing directions for inducing the bees to tenant the frame hive may be better carried out. For ourselves, we much prefer the evening for the purpose. A little water sprinkled over them from a watering-pot is likely to induce the bees to quit the ground and go up into the hive more quickly.
Mr. Langstroth, in his admirable book, "The Hive and Honey Bee," writes:—"If they are too dilatory in entering the new hive, they may be gently separated with a spoon or leafy twig where they gather in bunches on the sheet, or they may be carefully 'spooned up' and shaken out close to the front of the hive. As these go in with fanning wings, they will raise a peculiar note, which communicates to their companions that they have found a home, and in a short time the whole swarm will enter, without injury to a single bee." In the Journal of Horticulture, Mr. Woodbury says:—"If combs be fixed in the frames, the crown-board may be removed and the cluster knocked out of the straw hive on to the top of the exposed frames. The bees will disappear between them with the utmost alacrity, delighted to have met with a ready-furnished dwelling, and the top, or crown-board, having been replaced, the hive should at once be removed to the position it is intended to permanently occupy."
No one should attempt these operations without being protected by a bee dress and a pair of india-rubber gloves, which are sting-proof. Some persons also take the precaution of tying strings round the ancles of the trousers, lest some straggler should determine to attack the outposts of the enemy, which, to say the least, might perplex the operator in the midst of his task. Elastic india-rubber bands are good for this purpose, or a pair of "knickerbockers" would be useful. If Wellington boots are worn, the trousers may be tucked within the leather, in which case no bee can molest the operator, and no string or band will be needed. Practice makes perfect in bee-tending, as in other matters, and when a light hand is gained, there is little danger of the apiarian being stung.
If the weather be wet the next day or so after hiving, it will be well to give a little assistance to the new colony in the shape of food, for although, when a swarm leaves a hive, almost every bee composing it fills itself with honey, we have known not a few instances, in case of very wet weather, in which the whole swarm has been starved for the want of this little timely help. Of course, the first work of the bees is to build themselves combs, and these combs being produced by the secretion of wax from honey, a great drain upon their resources immediately begins, and any little outlay at this juncture is abundantly compensated by its enabling these industrious emigrants the more quickly to push forward the furnishing of their new home.
Clean combs from hives that may have lost their bees are readily accepted, and cause a great saving in time and; material to the bees; these combs may easily be fixed by cutting them the proper size to fit within the frames, and making them firm by tying with tape or fixing them with pliable wire. In any case where the combs are too small to fit within the frame, a temporary bar may be fixed, and held firm by being sprung within the two upright sides of a frame, and thus pushed up until it presses the comb; then a piece of tape wound round, or a clip made of tin or zinc shaped to the top bar, prevents its falling out. All these supports may be removed[15] as soon as the bees have made the foundation secure; the comb will then be added to. In this way, every loose piece of comb may be economised.[16]
[15] They should be first dismembered from the comb by running a penknife between.
[16] Artificial comb may be advantageously used, especially if a little time (say a couple of days) be allowed to elapse before it is put into the hive; because, at first, so eager is a swarm to push forward the work of comb-building, that the sheets are liable to become mutilated. For guide-comb, cut the sheets in strips of rather more than an inch in depth, and fix them as mentioned at [page 154].
These preparations must be made prior to 'the bees being hived, so that when a hive is so prepared, a swarm may begin to adapt whatever advantages they find ready for them; and it is truly marvellous what a swarm will do when thus furnished with combs in their new habitation. In these the queen can immediately begin to deposit her eggs, and the workers to store their honey, without having to wait for the construction of combs, which is a laborious occupation for the bees.
In some cases, fine white combs of honey may be taken from the stock-hive; the end frames are always the most free from brood. Care must be exercised not to rob this part of the hive too much; one comb may, perhaps, be removed in the course of the season without impoverishing the bees, but it is not wise to take more.
PUTTING ON SUPER HIVE.
A colony established a year or more is called a "stock," by way of distinction from a swarm of the present year. Supposing the hive to be a stock, the super should be given them at the early part of the season, say, if fine and warm, at the latter end of April or beginning of May; if the weather be then unfavourable, it is better to delay doing so until a more genial temperature. If the colony be a swarm of the present year, two weeks should be allowed to elapse from the time of tenanting a hive, before putting on the super; this delay is necessary to give the bees the opportunity of building combs in their new domicile, and of getting a store of honey for themselves before working for their master.
When it is wished to use a super, the crown-board or roof of the stock-hive must be taken away, the thin adapting or honey-board taking its place. The two long slits at the sides are to give admission to the super. The bees will begin sooner, and work faster, if the eight bars are each furnished with artificial comb (as described at [page 152]). We have had depriving-hives very quickly filled when the bees were thus assisted. Combs that have been left unfilled may be fixed to the bars as before described; these must be white and clean, as dark comb should not be used for super hives. The combs, when filled, may be taken out singly, if desired for consumption, substituting an empty bar or comb; or, should the bee-keeper desire to see a handsome super, he must wait until the bees have filled and sealed up all the combs, and then he may proceed to disconnect the super by drawing a string or wire between the adapting-board and the stock-hive. After waiting a short time for the commotion to subside, the operator must raise the super on its board and blow in a little smoke. The bees may be induced to quit by adopting either of the means described at pages [58] and [73]. When the super has been removed, another may be put on; but if the honey-gathering be over, the crown-board should be replaced.
TAKING OUT FRAMES WITH COMBS.
It is well for a beginner to practise the directions for opening and shutting up hives, by using an empty hive until he becomes familiar with the handling of the frames.
The first thing to do is, to loosen the crown-board, or lid, with a knife, drawing a piece of string underneath it, to divide the wax or cement with which the bees make all secure. This string should be drawn through very slowly, so as not to irritate the bees. In hot weather, the crown-board may be loosened by a lateral movement; but sometimes, for want of care, this loosening of the lid disturbs the bees, and, as soon as it is removed, a number of them, enraged thereby, rush out and attack the operator. This and all other operations ought to be performed very carefully and gently. Especial care should be taken not to prise the lid upwards, by way of wrenching it off, for the frames and combs are generally secured thereto, and there is a liability of rending the combs with it; this will greatly irritate the bees, and be otherwise injurious. When a hive of bees is enraged, there is little chance of pacifying them; it is best, under such circumstances, to "give in," at once, and not attempt to perform any operation, but to shut the hive up and beat a retreat, benefiting by the experience, in order to do better a day or so afterwards. There are various devices for intimidating or conciliating the bees, and one of these already spoken of is—smoke. So next time the experimenter makes his attempt let him raise the lid an inch or so, and blow a few puffs of smoke into the hive, which will cause the bees to retreat This is best done by using our tube fumigator, with a little of the prepared fungus lighted. Pipes or cigars are not convenient to use for this purpose when the head is enveloped in the dress. As soon as the lid is removed, a few bees will fly out to learn the cause of such an interference. Conciliation should then be offered by having at hand a little, sweetened water, which may be sprinkled, or rather let drop, from a feather or a brush. The sudden motion of the hand required in the act of sprinkling irritates the bees, so that, instead of making them our friends, they may become our foes. Mr. Langstroth recommends that a fine watering-pot, filled with sweetened water, be used for the purpose. Care must be taken not to drench the bees; only just sufficient should be given to run down the sides of the combs, as well as sprinkling the top. As soon as the bees really understand that syrup is being given them, they feast upon it, instead of angrily attacking the operator. Thus pacified, and with gentle treatment, but little difficulty will be found in proceeding with the work required. But the unskilled operator should on no account neglect to put on a bee-dress and gloves, as described above. We would err on the side of caution, although there is an old saying that "a cat in gloves catches no mice;" and the apiarian will find that his fingers are not so free to work as he would like, for gloves, make them rather clumsy in drawing up the frames.
The frames must now be gently prised from front to rear; this may be done with a small screw-driver or other stout instrument with a wedged end to go into the notches. The frames fit loosely so as to allow of a little movement from back to front; a lateral or side-way movement might kill the queen, or, if not so fatal as that, might crush some of the bees and injure the brood combs, which must be carefully avoided. Of course, much depends upon the nature of the operation that has to be performed, whether or no all the frames should be thus loosened. If it be for making artificial swarms, or for any purpose requiring an interview with her majesty, the whole of them must be loosened, because it often happens that all the combs have to be examined, sometimes twice over, before she can be discovered. Bees are very apt to build their combs in a slightly waving form, and in extracting one it will be needful to make room both for the comb and bees upon it to pass without scraping the next comb, and there will be a difficulty if the apiarian attempts to draw out one comb whilst the other frames are located in their appropriate notches. Let the operator gently proceed to lift, say, the third frame (allowing it to lodge on the little block that divides the notches) slightly nearer to the fourth frame, and the second nearer the third, so as to admit of sufficient space to lift out the end one. Very carefully and slowly he should lift the frame by taking hold, with thumb and finger, of the projecting shoulders that rest in the notch; and he must not let it touch or scrape the next frame or the sides of the hive, so as to crush or irritate any bees.
After the end comb is thus removed, it will be easy to extract the others, as there will now be plenty of room for drawing them out. A hive of exactly the same size should be at hand; and in case it be desired to remove the combs and bees into another hive, care should be taken that each comb occupies the same relative position that it did in the old hive.
In handling the frames, it should be borne in mind that they are to be held perpendicularly. To gain a view of both sides of the comb when searching for the queen, or for any purpose requiring full inspection, with a little dexterity in twirling the frame round, the reverse side may be brought to face the operator, without letting the comb break away by its own weight, and so fall out of the frame, which it will do if allowed to deviate from its upright or downright position. If the operator could see an experienced person perform the operation, he would quickly understand how combs may thus be handled without any risk of a smash.
When placing frames in the hive, care must be taken not to crush a bee between the projecting shoulders of the frame and the rabbets or notches on which they rest, and on no account must the frame be let down with a jerk, or the bees will become exceedingly fierce: the frame should be so slowly deposited in its place that a bee on feeling the slightest pressure may have the opportunity of escaping unhurt thereby. The crown-board should be replaced by first resting its front edge in its place, and then slowly lowering the after part, looking carefully under, and momentarily raising it when necessary to avoid crushing a bee. Should the hive have its super on, the same directions may be followed. The super with its honey-board may be bodily taken away, and so placed and confined for a time that robber-bees cannot find an entrance, and also be far enough from the apiarian to be out of danger of being broken or overturned by him.
ADVANTAGES OF BAR AND FRAME HIVES.
It will be asked, Why all this trouble about bar and frames with straight combs built upon them? We have shown the full command which the bee-keeper has over a hive so constituted, and we now proceed to show how, in skilful hands, these advantages may be used successfully; though; in the hands of the unpractised and unskilful, the contrary may be the result.
All the bars and frames in an apiary ought to be of precisely the same dimensions, so as to fit every hive. This is essential for the strengthening of weak hives. A hive that is weakly may often be advantageously strengthened by having put into it a comb of brood from a populous stock, to which an empty frame from the weak one may be given; no bees must be on the brood-comb—these should be shaken off or gently dislodged with a feather into the hive from which the comb is taken. The frames of combs should then be, one by one, placed so as to fill' in the vacancy, leaving the empty frame nearest the side. When a hive has been in use many years, the combs become very black, and every bee that is bred in a cell leaves a film behind. It may be understood how in this way the cells become contracted, and the bees that are bred in them correspondingly reduced in size. After the lapse of at least, say, five years, it may be necessary to begin removing the old combs. This may be done by cutting away the comb, or by substituting; an empty frame for one with old black comb, gradually moving the frames towards each other. By taking two away in this manner in the spring or summer of every season, the combs in course of five years may all be reconstructed, and fresh clean ones be secured for breeding in, instead of the old black ones that otherwise would remain as long as the stock could live in the hive.
ARTIFICIAL SWARMING.
Every bee-keeper knows the anxiety he feels in watching and expecting a swarm to come forth, fearful lest his favourites should, "like riches, take wing and fly away,"—a mischance that it is desirable to prevent. In our description of natural swarming, this will be found fully treated of; we propose here merely to point out how, with the movable frames, this work of Nature may be assisted—we say assisted, because artificial swarming should, as nearly as possible, resemble natural swarming; that is, it should be performed at the same time of the year, and when the populous state of the hive makes a division desirable. This is easily known to be the case when bees hang out in clusters at the entrance, wasting their time in enforced idleness instead of being abroad gathering honey. It is also necessary that the hive contain drones.
When such, is, the state of the hive, the facility of affording an artificial swarm with a movable frame-hive is a decided advantage. The best time for performing the operation is about ten o'clock in the morning of a fine summer's day. The following directions should be carried out:—Place ready a counter or bench that is firm and strong, and which has space on it for the inhabited—or, rather, the over-inhabited—frame-hive and the empty one, which is about to be made the receptacle of a separate stock. The operator, attired in his bee-dress, and having the other appliances ready, may now open the hive[17] as before described, and proceed to take out the frames, carefully examining both sides of each comb to find the queen;[18] she is generally in the centre of the hive, so that it is not always needful to take out all the ten frames. As they are examined, the frames may be put into the empty hive, and when the object of the bee-master's search is found, he must carefully remove the frame containing her majesty, and may place it temporarily in the empty hive, at one end by itself. Next he must proceed to put the frames back into the old hive, closing up the vacancy caused by the removal of the comb with the queen on it, and leave the empty frame at the end. Then he may place the frame containing the queen, with the few bees that maybe upon it, in the centre of the empty hive; and, finally, putting all the other frames in, and replacing the lid, the bee-master will place this hive in the exact position occupied by the old stock. The bees that are on the wing will go to the old spot, and, finding the queen there, they will rally round her, and very soon form a sufficient number to constitute a swarm; comb-building will at once begin, the frames will, in a week or so, be filled, and a satisfactory stock will thus be established. By doing this, at the right time, just before the bees are about to swarm, or when there are many drones, all the trouble of watching and waiting for them is saved. Mr. Woodbury claims the honour of having originated this mode of swarming.
[17] Bees are apt to take the interference more kindly if the stock be moved a little distance from its accustomed stand; in such case, place an empty hive in its place, to amuse returning bees. These can be shaken out when the hive it is desired they should inhabit is restored. If the hive be kept in a closed bee-house, the entrance should be shut down until the hive is replaced, when the clustered bees may be at once admitted.
[18] Italian queens are more easily detected, being of a brighter colour and, generally, larger than English queens.
This operation we performed, exactly as described above, with one of our improved cottage-hives, one afternoon at the latter end of May, 1862. Whilst inspecting our bees, we caught sight of the queen on the comb in one of the bell-glasses. This was a chance not to be missed, and we immediately resolved to form an artificial swarm, for the hive was very full of bees. Besides, being obliged to be away from the apiary most of the week, we were glad of the opportunity of so easily establishing a colony without the uncertainty and trouble of hiving a natural swarm. In the first place, we slid a tin under the bell-glass, and removing the stock-hive from underneath, we took it a few feet away; then we placed an empty improved cottage-hive where the old stock had stood, and put the glass of comb containing the queen and a few bees over one of the holes in the crown of this new empty hive. The bees that were left abroad belonging to the old stock returned as usual to their old entrance as they supposed; soon a sufficient number formed a large cluster in the hive and began comb-building, the queen remaining in the glass until the cells below were sufficiently numerous for her to deposit her eggs in them. The division answered exceedingly well; both hives prospered: the old hive either had some princesses coming forward to supply the loss of the queen, or the bees used a power that they possess of raising a queen from worker-brood in the manner we have previously described.[19]
The foregoing account illustrates the successful formation of an artificial swarm; but, with a cottage-hive, gaining possession of the queen is quite a matter of chance. With a movable frame-hive she can at any suitable time be found.
Precisely the same plan is to be adopted with the old stock in the frame-hive as we have described in the case of the cottage-hive, that is, to remove it some few paces off: when the hives are in a bee-house, a similar result may be obtained, by placing the new swarm for a day or two to the entrance used by the bees when with the old stock, and the old stock may be removed to an approximate entrance. Some apiarians recommend that a space be left between the two hives, by placing the hives on the right and left of the old entrance, in order that too large a proportion of bees should not enter the new hive at the old position, to the impoverishment of the other. But we have found the mode adopted with the cottage-hive answer so well, that we see no reason for recommending any different plan.
It is the office of the bee-master to assist, not in the least degree to oppose, nature. We know that when a natural swarm issues forth, it has its impregnated queen, and, when located in a new abode, it commences building worker-combs, leaving the building of the few drone-combs to a later period; but if a division of the hive should be made, by putting half the combs in one hive and half in another, the hive that is either queenless or contains an embryo queen will busy itself with building only drone-comb; thus a number of receptacles for useless bees is provided, which tends to weakness, and eventually to loss of the hive.
In the plan we have recommended for forming two separate families, we nearly follow the natural state of things; the comb that the queen is upon is the only one that is taken from the hive, and this vacancy should be filled in by moving the frames together, so as to leave the empty frame at the end. The bees, under the government of the impregnated queen, construct the combs and furnish their new above, as before stated, with worker-cells.
By adopting the plan above described, the movable bar and frame-hive will prove far superior to any of the dividing hives, which provide for equal division of the combs.[20]
[20] At page 143 of Mr. Langstroth's "Honey Bee," other methods of artificial swarming are described, the perusal of which will well repay the scientific bee-keeper.
Perhaps the greatest advantage the movable frame-hive possesses is, that a full knowledge can be attained of its exact state as regards the queen, the population, and the quantity of food in stock. During weather of a genial temperature, the combs may on any fine day be inspected, and thus, a knowledge being gained of the deficiency existing in a hive, the necessary means may be adopted for supplying the want. Sometimes such an examination will verify the fears of the bee-keeper, when, having observed that his bees have ceased to carry in pollen, he has thereby received warning that the queen has been lost at some juncture when no successor to the throne could be provided. Such a hive has entered on a downward course, and will dwindle away entirely, unless a queen should be given to it, or else some combs containing young brood not more than three days old. By the latter method, the bee-keeper will gain an opportunity of seeing the bees set about their wonderful process of raising a queen from the brood thus provided for them.
When a bee-keeper has become skilful in his calling, he maybe desirous to encourage the breeding of queens, or rather of preventing their destruction. He will seek to use the propagating instincts of the worker-bees as a set-off against that innate hatred of rivalry which prompts the reigning queen to kill the tender royal brood.
An ingenious little contrivance has been brought into use by continental bee-keepers, especially by Herr Kleine, a German pastor, to prevent the destruction alluded to. It consists of a small wire cage (in fact, a pipe cover), as represented in the above engraving, placed over a queen-cell to protect it from the mother-bee's animosity, and it also serves to prevent the young queen, when hatched, from escaping; for she will have the same jealous feeling toward her sister-princesses, should there be more in the hive. The bee-master may thus carefully remove and appropriate her.
Particular attention will have to be exercised to affix the cage into the comb by pressure, as far as the middle wall, but at no point must it touch the royal cell itself. As the cage will probably project so as to touch the adjoining comb, a little incision and removal of a portion may be necessary, to allow space for it. It can, however, be squeezed into any shape to suit the position required.
This covering need not be put over the cell until the egg is a little more than a week old. The animosity of the reigning queen does not generally manifest itself until the royal brood approaches maturity.
It is said that these cells are unmolested on the tenth day, but that on the eleventh day they may be found tenantless. Notwithstanding the apiarian's care and skill, many disappointments are frequently experienced in endeavouring to establishing fertile young queens at the head of colonies.
Hives found to be queenless may be supplied either with matured queens or with queen-cells. If the latter are sufficiently numerous, their introduction may easily be effected by exchanging a comb in each hive; if they have to be cut out and place loosely in the new hive, a triangular piece of comb should then be removed with them, to be used as a block in preventing any pressure coming on them. A space must be cut out of the middle in the centre combs of the hive into which they are to be introduced. Special care must be taken not to bruise the royal embryos, as they are particularly sensitive to pressure. It is sometimes best to introduce royal brood into queenless hives in preference to matured unimpregnated queens, because, as mentioned at [page 8], bees are reluctant to receive virgin queens, whilst they will tolerate one hatched in the hive, who will speedily depart to seek a drone. Bee-masters mostly use small hives for queen-rearing, consisting of, say, four combs. By extracting from a populous hive four such frames of combs (with the bees on them), and having eggs in the first stage (see [page 9]), or better still a royal embryo, the bees will rear a queen or queens therefrom. Care will have to be exercised to ensure that there is a sufficient number of bees to mature the brood brought from the hive.[21]
[21] These weak little colonies should have small entrances, so as to be better able to defend themselves from the attacks of robber-bees, and they will require to be assisted and strengthened by feeding.
A colony of this character is technically called a "nucleus."
Such operations as queen-rearing should only be attempted in warm summer weather, and when drones are abundant.
A very great advantage that the Woodbury bar and frame hive affords, is the safety and convenience with which a stock of bees can in it be transported to any part of the kingdom: by a few additional arrangements, stocks have even been sent in it to distant countries. In many districts hives are removed to moors, and heaths in autumn, for the purpose of gathering heather honey. In this operation, the frames are a great support to the combs, very much lessening the risk of a break down and consequent loss.
From a hive that has been inhabited all the winter, we have not unfrequently lifted out the frames and removed the stock to a clean hive; and we believe that the change has always been useful The bees find a clean floor-board and a clean hive to breed in, free from insects that may have harboured in crevices about their former abode. When the change has been made, the old hive can be thoroughly cleaned and used in the same way for making the exchange with another stock. The process for handling will, of course, be the same as before described. We have found that, where this plan has been carried out, the bees seem to progress faster. Perhaps a little stirring up may be useful in arousing them from their winter doze. The time we recommend for doing this is in the beginning of April, but a fine warm day should be chosen.
DRIVING.
Driving is an operation by which bees are induced to vacate an old settled hive and to enter an empty one. Many apiarians prefer this mode of effecting an exchange of hives to the plan of fumigating the bees.
The greatest success attending such a transfer will be in the case of hives well filled with combs that are worked nearly to the floor-board; and it may be remarked, that bees are generally so far provident, that they leave an open space in which to pass underneath their combs over all the floor of the hive. When the old hive is inverted, the bees crawl up the combs, and thus more easily pass up into the new hive, which the operator places over the old one, with the intent that they should enter it.
The best time for performing this operation is about the middle of the day, and when the weather is warm. It is essential that the operator be protected with a bee-dress and gloves, as before described; and previous to commencing his task, he must provide all necessary implements. These are:—a couple of hives, one of which should correspond in shape and size with the hive from which the bees are to be driven; a cloth to tie round at the junction when the new hive is placed on the old one; some string to keep the cloth in its place; an empty pail to receive the top of the old hive, if one of the old conical shape, but if the stock of bees is in a square box-hive with a flat top, a firm stool will be the best; and a tube fumigator with some fungus, which will complete the material of war. The bucket or stool must be placed securely on the ground, about a yard from the place where the full hive stands; then a few puffs of smoke, blown in amongst the bees, will cause them to retreat up amongst the combs. The bee-master must now turn the hive[22] upside down very gently; letting it rest in the pail or on the stool; he then quickly places the empty hive over the full one, and ties the cloth round it, to prevent any escape of the bees. If the cloth be damped, it will cling the closer to the hives. The third hive is intended to be placed on the stand formerly occupied by the stock, so as to retain the few returning bees which had been absent in the fields. Care must be taken that all crevices through which it is possible for the bees to escape from the united hives should be effectually closed. When the two are fairly united, the operator will proceed by rapping the full hive gently with the hands or a couple of sticks, more particularly on that side where the combs are the most thickly placed—that is, if the hive be not equally filled. A stock is in the best condition for driving twenty-one days, or thereabouts, after a first swarm has issued; the brood will then have hatched out, the bees will quit more readily, and there will be no loss of larvæ in the cells.
[22] Care should be exercised in turning the hives over to keep the combs vertical, or they are likely to break from their foundations.
It generally happens that, in about fifteen minutes, the bees regularly commence the ascent; their exodus will be known by the distinct rushing sound which is always noticed when a colony of bees is on the move. The first thing bees do when disturbed is to fill their honey-bags, as they invariably do at swarming time; consequently, after the first rush into the new hive is over, as in the case of a swarm, the "flitting" bees are not much disposed to take wing. When the noise made by the ascending bees has been heard, and has in a great degree subsided, the cloth may be removed, and the old hive, now deserted, may be taken indoors; and if a few bees yet remain, they may be brushed off with a feather. An experienced apiarian, on first hearing the rushing noise before mentioned, will not hesitate to tilt the top hive over a little on one side, so that he may watch the bees during the ascent; the queen may be seen passing up, and if the operator desires to take her away, he can secure her by placing a wine-glass over her. This expedient is often resorted to in the autumn, when stocks are to be united, for in such a case the removal of the queen prevents some fighting.
If the taking of the honey be the object of the bee-master, then "driving" is manifestly a better plan than resorting to the fumes of sulphur for the purpose; for the bees from whom the store is taken can be joined to stocks that are weak in numbers, with considerable advantage to the future prosperity of the apiary.
When the removed bees are to be joined to another stock, the operator will proceed as follows:—At dusk, dislodge the bees on to a cloth, sprinkle them with sweet syrup, and place the hive to which it is intended to join them over the mass; they will gradually ascend into the hive placed for them, and early next morning the hive, with its slender stock thus augmented, may be removed to its stand. Should the operator not have been successful, or not sufficiently skilful to gain possession of the queen, he may leave it to the bees themselves to decide which queen they will have.
By this plan of "driving," artificial swarms may be secured by an "expert" even in common hives, though those do not afford the facilities for such a purpose as do the bar or bar-and-frame hives.
CHANGING OLD STOCKS TO NEW HIVES.
We frequently find that the possessor of a stock of bees in a cottager's common straw hive is desirous of removing the whole stock of bees and comb into one of our improved hives, in which the honey may be obtained without the destruction of the bees. We mostly discourage such a transfer, attended as it is with much labour, and requiring a considerable amount of apiarian skill. An old-fashioned hive may very readily be rendered a humane one, simply by cutting out with a sharp-pointed knife the middle of the top of the hive; a piece may thus easily be taken out, so as to leave a round hole two or three inches in diameter, but care must be taken that the knife does not penetrate much below the straw, lest it reach the comb or the bees—and it will be safer for the operator to have a bee-dress on. There should be ready a round adapting-board, with a corresponding hole, which may be secured on the top by putting four long nails through the same number of holes in the board; then a cap-hive or a glass may be placed on the top, for the purpose of admitting the bees, who will soon crowd therein to work.
This hive or glass will form a super or depriving-hive, and can be worked as profitably as most of the improved hives. For the sake of an improved appearance, an outside case, either of zinc, straw, or wood, may be dropped over all, and then, if well painted, the whole will form no disfigurement to any flower-garden.
This is, beyond doubt, the easiest way of overcoming the difficulty, but as it may not satisfy all, we now proceed to describe how a complete transfer may be made. No hive offers such facilities for the correct placing of the combs in a perfectly upright position as does the bar-and-frame hive. As before remarked, we should be slow to recommend any one to attempt the operation who is not already pretty well accustomed to the handling of bees and acquainted with their habits; but by carefully carrying out the following directions any one may successfully perform the feat. The first thing is to get the bees away from the combs: there are two ways of doing this,—one is by fumigation (see [page 145]), the other by driving (see [page 179]). Whichever plan may be resorted to, have the bees confined in the old hive on their stand until you are quite ready to admit them into the bar-and-frame hive. Have in readiness all the necessary appliances. These consist of a large knife for cutting the hive, a good-sized table on which to lay the brood-combs, a basin of water—for washing off honey which may besmear the hands,—tape or cotton string to fasten the combs in their frames, a pair of honey-cutters for cutting out the combs, jars to hold the honey that runs out, and a feather for brushing off any bees that may remain. It is necessary that the operator should have on his bee-dress and india-rubber gloves. Then begin by slicing off a piece of the hive with a sharp table-knife; carefully cut out the working combs—cut them large, so that they will squeeze into the frames; and, to be more secure, wind some of the tape round to keep them in position until made fast by the bees. After a few days, these fastenings may be removed. Care should be taken that the combs occupy, the same position in the frames as in the hive from which they were extracted. Having thus prepared the hive, the bees may be let into it, in the manner Mr. Woodbury recommends for a swarm (see [page 159]). It may be as well to keep them confined a few hours, giving them water at the top, until they make the combs secure; the new hive will then be less likely to offer an attraction to bees from other hives, who, if feloniously inclined, might come to rob. This transfer should be made when the weather is such that the bees can fly about: when not warm enough, it should be done in a room at a temperature of about 70 degrees. An expert apiarian could perform the operation in less than three quarters of an hour, and with little loss. A week or so after a swarm has left the old stock is perhaps the very best time for such a removal. Should the operation be performed in the open air, the bees from surrounding hives will be sure to come in great numbers to obtain a share of the honey necessarily exposed, for they delight in plunder. In order, therefore, to avoid annoyance to the operator, and the excitement which is certain to be induced in surrounding hives, it is better to conduct the dissection in some building with closed doors. In some instances a routing of this kind has a beneficial effect; old stocks of hives that have previously appeared to be dwindling are often aroused to activity by their removal into a fresh domicile.
WEIGHING HIVES, &c.
One of the most effectual modes of ascertaining the condition of a hive is by weighing it. Such knowledge is most important at the close of the gathering season, in order that the bee-keeper may determine whether he ought to give his bees artificial food to enable them to live through the dreary winter. A knowledge of the numerical strength of the colony is also useful, in enabling the bee-keeper to decide which hives will be benefited by being joined together, on the plan explained in the articles on "[Fumigation]" and "[Driving]."
A hive can very easily be weighed, if a Salter's Spring Balance be suspended near the apiary. The hive, having a strap or cord passed under and over it, crossing at right angles on the top, may be hooked on to the balance, so that the weight will be indicated on the dial.
The annexed engraving represents a tripod stand, with a weighing-machine of the above-named construction, to which a hive with a super is attached. Such an arrangement will be found convenient for those bee-keepers who may not possess suitable sheds in their gardens, where a hive could be thus suspended from a beam.
This contrivance is both portable and simple, and can be used from time to time; or, if the apiarian desires to have the hive constantly suspended, a water-proof covering might easily be made to drop over, and adapted so as to admit of being raised occasionally for ascertaining the weight shown on the dial.
To prevent the hive being swayed to and fro by the wind, three cords (gear ropes) might be attached therefrom to the three legs of the stand. The height of such a stand need not exceed four feet.
Much interest might be derived by watching the daily or hourly increasing store brought into a hive during the gathering season.
Mr. George Fox, of Kingsbridge, and Mr. S. Bevan Fox, of Exeter, have for some years each kept one stock attached to a "Salter's Circular Spring Balance," suspended from a beam under a shed, and, from experience, find that from a hive so balanced a criterion may be formed of what other hives in the apiary are doing through the day.
Many ingenious contrivances will, no doubt, suggest themselves to the apiarian for suspending hives in this manner. For instance, instead of the cord being tied round the hive, three or four strong irons, with a screw at one end and a ring at the other (known by iron mongers as "eyes"), could be screwed into the floor-boards, to which the attachments might be made fast. It will scarcely be necessary to hint that great care is necessary that full provision should be made securely to support the increasing weight; a fall would be most ruinous, and terribly enrage the bees.
The weight of the hive should be marked on it when empty, so that the exact amount of its contents may at any time be ascertained. A colony of bees at Michaelmas ought to weigh from 20 to 24 lbs., that is, exclusive of the hive; if falling short of that weight, the hive should be made up to it by the artificial means before recommended.
Experienced apiarians are able to judge of the weight of a hive by lifting it a few inches from the stand; or by looking in at the windows of a stock-hive, a conclusive opinion may be formed as to the state of the colony. If the combs within view be well filled and sealed, it will be safe to consider that the hive contains sufficient stores to carry the bees through the winter.
