IV.—EXTERIOR ARRANGEMENTS AND APPARATUS.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWO HIVES.
HERE is no contrivance for protecting' hives from the weather so complete as a bee-house: one which also admits of an easy inspection of the hives ranged therein is especially convenient for lady bee-keepers.
Front View of Bee House.
The folding; doors behind the bee-house have only to be opened, and the hives are at once exposed to full view; then, by raising the upper hive or cover, the glasses may be deliberately inspected without molestation from the bees, and the progress made by the busy multitude in building and filling their combs may be watched by the bee-keeper, from day to day, with great and increasing interest. Under the roof on each side are openings to act as ventilators, to allow the heated air to escape. With the sun shining on the house and no escape of this kind, the heat would be retained inside, and the temperature become that of an oven.
Here our engraving shows the back view of the bee-house, the interior being furnished with two of our improved cottage hives. Two suspended weights will be noticed; these are to balance the top hives which cover the glasses; the cord for each runs on pulleys, so that the covers can be easily raised and as easily shut down again when the inspection is finished. We may here remark, that it is not well to keep the glasses long exposed to full light and view.
The front of the bee-house being closely boarded, a passage-way is contrived for the bees, by which they have egress and ingress, without being able to gain access to the house. The hives must be kept close to the front boarding of the house, to prevent the opening of any crevices which the bees might mistake for the entrance to their hives, and so find their way into the house. The front view of this bee-house shows the ordinary contrivance for entrance; the sliding zinc entrances may also be advantageously fixed, as shown in the engraving of a bee-house to contain twelve hives. In many parts of the country, hives and honey are sometimes stolen from the garden; the bee-houses we furnish have a lock and key to prevent depredations of this kind.
Care must be taken to keep the bee-houses free from spiders and other insects. In some districts, ants are numerous and troublesome. The plan we recommend for excluding them is to put some pitch round the four supports of the bee-house, or, better still, strips of loose flannel, or other woollen material that is absorbent, which have previously been soaked in lamp oil. We use sperm oil, as being the slowest-drying oil we know of. A piece of string will keep the flannel close to the wood and then neither ant nor other insect will pass up; so that Dy this simple means the hives may, so to speak, be insulated, and placed beyond their reach. As the oil dries up, it can easily be renewed. We have found this an effectual remedy against these insidious enemies of bees.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWELVE HIVES
Back view of Bee-house, showing the Interior.
Where economy of room is a consideration, we fit up bee-houses with a double row of hives, one above the other. Our engravings show the back and front of a house of this kind, having an ornamental zinc gutter to prevent the wet from dripping on to the alighting-board.
When a number of hives are thus together, we colour the alighting-boards differently, so that the bees may have a distinctive mark by which each may know its own home, and not wander into its neighbour's house. Bees readily enough receive a honey-laden labourer into a hive; but if the wanderer be poor and empty, he will be promptly repulsed, and may have to forfeit his life for his mistake. Queens returning from their wedding trip are liable to mistake their hive if all the entrances are so much alike that a noticeable difference is not easily apparent. A queen entering a hive already supplied with a fruitful sovereign would be certain to be killed. The loss to the hive to which the queen belonged is a serious one. Hives are often made queenless from this cause, and thereby reduced to utter ruin, the bee-master perhaps attributing his failure to something altogether different.
BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN NINE HIVES.
This engraving represents a bee-house adapted for having a number of hives in a limited space,—three rows of hives, one above the other.
We do not recommend a bee-house of this construction; it is difficult to erect one to afford space for super hives, without its being so inconveniently high as to be liable to be blown over by strong winds.
Hives thus located in a bee-house are not exposed to so much change of temperature, and the stocks generally pass the winter well.
Here we may introduce the meditations of a German apiarian, who describes the advantages of a bee-house for the bees, and his own pleasure in watching over his pets in the winter, as they dwell so comfortably and safely. It is true that Herr Braun associates still choicer delights with the simple pleasures of bee-keeping, but as Mr. Woodbury has not excluded the higher theme from his translation, we need not hesitate to quote the whole:—
EVENING THOUGHTS IN JANUARY.
(Translated from the German by Adalbert Braun.)
BY A DEVONSHIRE BEE-KEEPER.
Within my little garden
Stands also a bee-house,
And bees therein protected
From sly tomtit or mouse.
How quietly they're sitting!
And little trouble give,
Beyond the needful watching
That undisturbed they live—
That all, indeed, are living
In strong, unbroken health,
And, in the brood-nest hanging,
Consume their hoarded wealth—
That in the dwindling store-room
Sufficient stores remain,
Until the rape-plant donneth
Its blossom-dress again!
Thus daily do I visit
My garden and my bees,
Neglecting thereby often
My dinner and my ease.
Thank God! they all were humming
Within their hives to-day;
Nor could I find a symptom
Of hunger or decay.
And yet what ardent longing
I feel, O Spring, for thee!
My darlings' gleesome frolics
Are happiness to me!
How would this anxious longing
Consume my very breast,
But for a little being
So full of love and jest.
In heat or cold that prattles
Around me ev'ry day,
And still, the throes of longing
By commune blithe and gay.
Ye bee-keepers can value
A joy that is complete;
It is my wife—the darling
Whose lips are honey-sweet.
With e'en the richest bee-stand
Were joy and pleasure gone,
If my heart's queen were wanting
And I left here alone.
Thus, her I love and honour,
No difference have we,
But ofttimes go together
Our little pets to see.
Her kisses sweet removing
All sorrow from my breast,
And honied joys surrounding
Proclaim us highly blest.
Mount Radford, Exeter. T. W. Woodbury.
ORNAMENTAL ZINC COVER.
The annexed engraving of the Ornamental Zinc Cover renders but little description necessary. The illustration shows one of our improved cottage hives on a stand. Three clumps of wood must be driven into the ground, and the three iron rods supporting the covering made fast to them with screws; there are screw holes in the feet of the iron rods for the purpose. When thus secured, but little fear need be entertained of its being blown over by high winds.
In the roof two pulleys are fixed, so that, by attaching a cord, the upper hive covering the bell-glass supers may be raised with facility for the purpose of observing the progress made by the bees.
The ornamental zinc cover will form a pleasing object in the flower-garden, when placed in a suitable position on the grass plot. It is painted green; the iron rods are of such a length as to support the roof at a convenient height from the ground.
ZINC COVER.
This is a simple and inexpensive covering for any cottage straw hive when exposed in the garden. It fits close on to the upper hive, coming sufficiently low to protect it from sun and rain, without obscuring the whole hive.
These covers are painted green—a colour that is generally preferred.
TAYLOR'S ZINC COVER.
This zinc cover, introduced by H. Taylor, Esq., for his cottage hive, will also be found useful as a protection from wet, for many other descriptions of round straw hives.
BELL GLASSES.
To contain 10 lbs., 10 inches high, 7 inches wide.
To contain 6 lbs., 7 inches high, 5½ inches wide.
To contain 3 lbs., 5 inches high, 4 inches wide.
These bell glasses are used in the hives before described. The largest is for Nutt's hive; the middle-sized is for our improved cottage hive; the smallest glass is so very small that it is not often used, and we do not recommend it. Bees will generally fill a middle-sized glass quite as soon as one so small as this.
TAYLOR'S BELL GLASSES.
These glasses have been introduced by Mr. Taylor, and are recommended as preferable to deep narrow glasses. The drawings will show that they are straight at the sides, flat at the top inside, with a knob outside to take hold by, through which is a half-inch opening to admit a ventilating tube. The larger is six inches deep, twelve inches wide; smaller, five inches deep, nine and a half inches wide.
The late Mr. J. H. Payne, of Bury, author of the "Bee-keeper's Guide" introduced another glass. It has a three-inch hole in the centre, the purpose of which is to tempt bees to produce additional and larger stores of honey. It is to be used as follows:—When a bell glass is half or quite filled, raise it, and place Payne's glass over the hole of the stock-hive, with the filled glass on it, over the three-inch hole. The bees will bring their combs through, and thus Mr. Payne found that they would store more honey than if the bell glass were removed and another empty one put in its place. Of course, the first glass must be smaller in diameter than Payne's glass, so as to rest upon it.
FLAT-TOPPED GLASS.
This is a glass super, to be placed on the hive in a similar way to the bell glasses already alluded to. It has the advantages of being straight at the sides, flat at top, and without a knob; so that when filled it may be brought on to the breakfast table, inverted, on a plate. The glass lid shown in the engraving forms a cover, and fits over outside, so as not to interfere with the combs within. These flat-top glasses, like those with a knob, have a hole through which a zinc ventilating tube is inserted. Dimensions, six and three-quarter inches wide, five inches high.
GUIDE-COMB FOR GLASSES.
In some of our previous allusions to the best mode of inducing bees to commence working in glasses, we have recommended attaching guide-comb. We will now more particularly explain how this attraction can be best applied. We have already shown how bees may be induced to make use of guide-combs fixed to bars, and the same principle is applicable to glasses. These may be filled, with great regularity, by adopting the following directions, which, we believe, have never before appeared in print:—
Procure a piece of clean new empty worker honey-comb, which has not had honey in it (because honey will prevent adhesion to the glass); cut it into pieces of about three-quarters of an inch square. Gently warm the exterior of the glass (this we find is best done by holding the glass horizontally for a short time over the flame of a candle); then apply one of the pieces of empty comb inside at the part warmed, taking care, in fixing it, that the pitch or inclination of the cells is upwards—in fact, place the guide-comb in the same relative position that it occupied in the hive or glass from which it was taken. There is some danger of making the glass too warm, which will cause the comb to melt and the wax to run down the side, leaving an unsightly appearance on the glass; this should be carefully avoided, and a little experience will soon enable the operator to determine the degree of warmth sufficient to make the comb adhere without any of it being melted. It is hardly necessary to state that only the very whitest combs ought to be used. A short time should be allowed before changing the position of the glass, so that it may cool sufficiently to hold the comb in its place. Six or eight pieces may thus be fixed, so that, when the glass is filled, it will present a star shape, all the combs radiating from the centre. The annexed engraving shows the appearance of a glass as worked by the bees, in which guide-combs were fixed in the manner described above. The drawing was taken from a glass of our own filled after being thus furnished.
In the Old Museum at the Royal Gardens, Kew, may be seen a Taylor's glass, presented by us, some of the combs in which are elongated on the outside to the breadth of six inches. We believe, that not only does a glass present a much handsomer appearance when thus worked—and will, on that account, most fully reward the trouble of fixing guide-comb—but that more honey is stored in the same space, and in less time than if the glass be placed on the hive merely in a naked condition for the bees to follow their own devices.
This mode of fixing guide-comb does not solely apply to the above-shaped glass, but is equally useful for all kinds of glasses. It is introduced in connection with this glass because, from its having a flat top and no knob, the regularity is more clearly apparent.
The working of bees in the bell glasses illustrates how tractable their disposition really is, if only scope be allowed for the due exercise of their natural instinct. They have no secrets in their economy, and they do not shrink from our constant observation as they daily pursue their simple policy of continuous thrift and persevering accumulation. Yet it is only owing to the labours of successive inventors that we are now enabled to watch "the very pulse of the machine" of the bee-commonwealth:—
"Long from the eye of man and face of day.
Involved in darkness all their customs lay,
Until a sage well versed in Nature's lore,
A genius formed all science to explore;
Hives well contrived, in crystal frames disposed.
And there the busy citizens disclosed."
Murphy's Vaniere.
Exterior of an Apiary.
As originally erected in the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park.
Interior of an Apiary.
May be taken as suggestive for the construction or appropriation of rooms for the
larger Apiaries in summer-houses or other out-buildings.
THE NEW BOTTLE-FEEDER.
It has long been acknowledged that the best mode of feeding bees is through an opening at the top of the stock-hive. The new bottle-feeder is a simple and good means of administering food when a stock requires help in that way, as bees can take the food from it without leaving the hive. Any kind of hive that has an opening at the top may thus be fed. Another important feature is the cleanliness with which liberal feeding can be accomplished; and few operations require more care than does feeding. If liquid sweet is left hanging about the hive, it tempts robber-bees; and when once the bees of an apiary have had a taste, there is no knowing where their depredations will stop: they resolutely attack and endeavour to rob other hives, fighting and killing one another to a considerable extent. Even if no hives be completely destroyed, weakness from loss of numbers will be the portion of most, if not of all, the hives in the garden.
The morals of our favourites are here a good deal at fault, for the stronger hives, when their inordinate passion is thus stirred up by the carelessness or want of knowledge of the bee-keeper, attack and prey upon the weaker ones. To be "forewarned is to be forearmed"—and "prevention is better than cure." We strongly recommend closely covering up the feeder; one of the middle-size bell glasses put over it makes a close-fitting cover, should the regular cover to the hive not be sufficiently tight. When bees are not kept in a bee-house, and are, on that account, more accessible, this extra care is particularly needed. The right time for feeding is in the autumn or spring. As stated at [page 76], it is requisite to ascertain the condition of the hive at Michaelmas, and, if wanting, the deficiency can then be made up.[13] It is not wise to defer feeding until later in the season, because it is important that, when the food is placed b the cells, the bees should seal it up; and a tolerably warm temperature is required to enable them to secrete the wax for the delicately-formed lids of the cells. If the food remained unsealed, there is danger of its turning sour, and thereby causing disease among the bees. It is not well to feed in mid-winter or when the weather is very cold: bees at such times consume but little food, being in a state of torpor, from which it is better not to arouse them.
[13] A much greater quantity of food will have to be administered than the actual weight required to be furnished, because there is a very considerable decrease after it is taken by the bees.
A little food in the spring stimulates the queen to lay more abundantly, for bees are provident and do not rear the young so rapidly when the supplies are short. In this particular, the intelligence of bees is very striking; they have needed no Malthus to teach them that the means of subsistence must regulate the increase of a prosperous population:—
"The prescient female rears the tender brood
In strict proportion to the hoarded food."
Evans.
Judgment has, however, to be exercised by the apiarian in giving food, for it is quite possible to do mischief by over-feeding. The bees, when over-fed, will fill so many of the combs with honey, that the queen, in the early spring, cannot find empty cells in which to deposit her eggs, and, by this means, the progress of the hive is much retarded,—a result that should be guarded against. The following directions will show how the bottle-feeder is to be used:—Fill the bottle with liquid food; apply the net, affixed by an india-rubber band, over the mouth; place the block over the hole of the stock-hive, invert the bottle, the neck resting within the hole in the block; the bees will put their tongues through the perforations and imbibe the food, thus causing the bottle to act on the principle of a fountain. The bottle being glass, it is easy to see when the food is consumed. The piece of perforated zinc is for the purpose of preventing the bees from clinging to the net, or escaping from the hive when the bottle is taken away for the purpose of refilling. A very good syrup for bees may be made by boiling 6 lbs. of honey with 2 lbs. of water, for a few minutes; or loaf sugar, in the proportion of 3 lbs. to 2 lbs. of water, answers very well when honey is not to be obtained.
ROUND BEE-FEEDER.
Round bee-feeders are made of zinc and earthenware, eight inches across, three inches deep. The projection outside is a receptacle for pouring in the food; the bees gain access to the feeder through a round hole, which is placed either at the centre or nearer one side, whichever may best suit the openings on the top of the stock-hive. The feeder occupies a similar position to that of the glasses or cap hives in the gathering season. A circular piece of glass, cut so as to fit into a groove, prevents the bees escaping, and retains the warmth within the hive, whilst it affords opportunity for inspecting the bees when feeding.
The feeders were originally only made of zinc; but some bee-keepers advised the use of earthenware, and a few have been made to meet the wishes of those who give the preference to that material.
When the bees are fed from above in this manner, the feeder is kept at a warm temperature by the heat of the hive. In common hives, cottagers feed the bees by pushing under the hive thin slips of wood scooped out, into which the food is poured. This plan of feeding can only be had recourse to at night, 'and the pieces of wood must be removed in the morning. By feeding at the top of the stock-hive any interruption of the bees is avoided. For further instructions on this head, see the directions given for using the bottle-feeder.
ZINC FOUNTAIN BEE-FEEDER.
We have invented the fountain bee-feeder, in order that a larger supply of liquid food might be given to a hive than is practicable with the round feeder.
The liquid honey is poured in at, the opening, which unscrews; whilst being filled, the inside slide, closing the opening through which the food passes into the feeding-pan, should be shut down. When the reservoir is filled, the screw is made fast, and, the slide being withdrawn, a wooden float, pierced with small holes, through which the bees take the food, forms a false bottom, and rises and falls with the liquid. This feeder, being on the siphon principle, like a poultry or bird water-fountain, is supplied from the reservoir until that is empty. A piece of glass is fixed in the side of the reservoir, in order that the bee-keeper may see when it is emptied. A flat piece of glass on the top prevents the bees from escaping, and through it they may be inspected whilst feeding. The bees find access to the feeder on to the perforated float through the central round hole, which is placed over a corresponding hole in the stock-hive.
HONEY CUTTERS.
Honey cutters are used for removing comb from boxes and glasses without damaging it. The flat-bladed knife is for disconnecting the combs from the sides; the hook-shaped one is for the same purpose, to be applied to the top or horizontal part of the box or glass.
BOX FUMIGATOR.
This fumigator is a tin box, somewhat like a pepper-box upon a foot. It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described by Mr. Nutt, and is used in the following manner:—Have a straw hive or other vessel ready that will match in circumference the hive intended to be fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top, it will not remain crown downwards without a rest; in this case, it will be convenient to invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive to be operated upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly match in size, take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well, and place it in the box or fumigator; place this in the centre of the empty hive, then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to receive the fumes of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round the place where the two hives meet. In a minute or two, the bees may be heard dropping heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie stupefied. After a little while, the old hive may be tapped upon to make the bees fall more quickly. On removing; the upper hive, the bees from it will be found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one. Place a sheet on the ground, and spread the bees on it; then, with a feather, sort them over, in order to pick out the queen-bee. As soon as the queen is found, pour the rest of the lethargic swarm from off the sheet back into the inverted hive again. The stupefied bees must now be sprinkled freely with a syrup made of honey and water, or sugar and ale boiled together. Some' apiarians recommend a few drops 'of peppermint to be mixed with the syrup, in order to drown the peculiar odour which is special to each hive of bees,—this is more necessary when two-hives of bees are fumigated, and whilst under the influence of smoke are well mixed together. The hive containing the bees with which it is intended to unite the stupefied bees must now be placed on the top of that 'containing the latter, just as the hive was from which they have come. A wet cloth must be fastened round the two hives, so as to prevent any of the bees from escaping. The hives in this position must be placed where they are not likely to be knocked down or meddled with. The fresh bees in the upper hive, attracted by the scent of the bees besmeared with honey, go down and commence licking off the sweets from the sleepy ones. The latter gradually revive, when all get mingled together and ascend in company to the upper hive, where they live as if they had not been separate families. The two hives should be left undisturbed for twenty-four hours, then the upper hive may be removed and placed immediately on the spot from whence it was brought.
The reason the queen is recommended to be taken is to prevent any fighting. She should be kept alive and fed as long as she will live, in case any harm should befall the sovereign of the other community.
TUBE FUMIGATOR.
The tube fumigator[14] is useful for several purposes. When a frame-hive has to be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and blow a little smoke into the hive, so as to check the angry passions of the bees. If it be desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus must be placed in the box and the flattened end applied to the entrance of the hive; the smoke is then blown in, either with bellows or by applying the mouth of the operator, taking care to close all openings through which it can escape. The bees fall down stupefied, generally in about ten minutes; but the effect varies according to the populousness of the hive and the quantity of comb in it. The projected operations must now be performed speedily, as activity will soon be regained. See preceding directions.
[14] This fumigator will be found to possess many advantages over the box fumigator before mentioned.
THE BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR.
All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees should be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although the busiest of creatures, entertain a great dislike to fussiness in their masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian allows them to see that he is in a hurry. Hence, there is great advantage in having the face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when the operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can open his hives, take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with all the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee-dresses have been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of a very simple construction. It is made of strong black net, in shape like an inverted bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wide-awake or a lady's hat being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap causes the dress to stand off from the face, and the meshes, of the net, though much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough to allow of clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures the dress round the waist; the sleeves also, made of durable black calico, are secured at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the bee-master may be effectually protected with a pair of india-rubber gloves, which should be put on before the dress is fastened round the wrists. This kind of glove is regularly used by photographers, and allows of greater ease in manipulation than any other description.
Thus a very simple and inexpensive means of protection will enable even a novice in bee-keeping to make his observations and conduct his experiments under a sense of perfect security. Still, he need not be careless as to the feelings of his bees; his success and their comfort will be promoted by his "handling them gently, and as if he loved them." "Familiarity" between bees and their master "breeds" not "contempt," but affection.
Any sudden or clumsy movement, which jars the combs or frames, will excite the bees, and if but one should be crushed, the odour of their slaughtered comrade rouses the inhabitants of the hive to a pitch of exasperation. Their powers of smelling are very acute. The human breath is abomination to them; therefore, when operating upon bees, be careful to close the mouth and breathe only through the nostrils. The best time for most operations is in the middle of a fine day.
ENGRAVED PRESSING ROLLER FOR THE GUIDANCE OF BEES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HONEY-COMB ON THE BARS.
This is an engraved metal roller, which, when applied to the coated underside of a comb-bar, leaves an impression as shown in the diagram. The wax having been spread on the flat bar, the roller, heated by being put into hot water, is heavily pressed over it. The roller has two wooden handles, so that considerable pressure may be given to it. The roller is a little less than two inches in diameter, seven-eighths of an inch wide, and the length from handle to handle is six inches. The diagram shows the full size of the impressions as left on the wax, after passing the roller along the comb-bar, in the manner above described. It is a contrivance invented in Switzerland, and exhibited in the International Exhibition of 1862, when the pattern roller was purchased by ourselves.
The bars of a hive prepared with these markings in wax afford ready-made foundations for regular combs, which very much facilitate the operations of the bees.
IMPRESSED WAX SHEETS FOR ARTIFICIAL COMBS.
These artificial partition walls for combs are sheets of genuine wax, about the substance of thin cardboard. They receive rhomboidal impressions by being pressed between two metal plates, carefully and mathematically prepared and cast so that the impressions are exactly the same size as the base of the cells of a honey-comb. An inspection of a piece of comb will show that the division of the opposite cells is made by a thin partition wall, common to both. Now the substance of this is said to be only the one hundred and eightieth part of an inch, whilst the artificial ones we are recommending are between the thirtieth and fortieth part of an inch, more than four times the thickness of the handiwork of the bees themselves. It would, indeed, be vain to attempt to furnish sheets of wax at all approaching their own delicate fabric; the impressed sheets are quite as thin as they can be to bear the handling which is requisite for fixing them in the hives. We find, however, that the thickness is no disadvantage; the bees speedily excavate and pare the artificial sheet so as to suit their own notions of the substance required; then, with admirable economy, they use the surplus thus obtained for the construction of the cells. After a sheet has been partly worked at by the bees, it is interesting to hold it up to the light and observe the beautiful transparency of that part of it, contrasted with the opaqueness of the part not yet laboured upon.
When it is considered, as writers tell us, that more than 14 lbs. of honey are required for the secretion and elaboration of a single pound of comb, it will not be difficult to form a just estimate of the value of this invention, which thus furnishes cheap and excellent assistance to our industrious favourites. It also shows the bee-keeper that all clean empty combs should be carefully preserved and considered as valuable stock. Another great advantage that it affords us is, that it renders us independent of guide-comb, which is not always obtainable. When a sheet or a strip of this impressed wax is properly fixed to the comb-bar, it is certain to be the guide and foundation of a straight comb. This invention has been derived from Germany, where it has been adopted many years with success. At the International Exhibition of 1862, we purchased the metal plates or castings, so as to manufacture the impressed sheets with which we are now able to supply our customers; and, after the careful trials we have made, we have great confidence in recommending them.
In the season of 1863 we furnished a Woodbury glass super, with the wax sheets fixed to the bars, in the manner hereafter to be explained, and it was truly astonishing to see the rapidity with which these sheets of wax were worked into comb. Receptacles were quickly made ready for the storing of honey, and the new combs soon became beautifully white; for, although the artificial wax has a yellow tinge, yet, after being worked at and made thinner, it is as good in colour as ordinary combs. For supers we cut the wax plates in half, making one serve for two bars.
We have received from Germany the following directions for the fastening of the artificial plates to the comb-bars. Hereafter will be described a plan which we have adopted, and to which preference is given.
(Translation.)—"The unstamped edge of the plate receives incisions half an inch distant from one another, made with a sharp knife, the plate having been a little warmed; then it is pinched between two equally strong ledges, which have been well moistened. The projecting edge of the plate which received the incisions is alternately bent to the right and to the left. The comb-bar is well besmeared with artificial sticking wax (a mixture of two parts of wax and one part of American resin), and is well warmed at a fire. Afterwards the besmeared side is laid upon the bent end of the plate, and pressed to it as firmly as possible. A small wooden ledge, besmeared with sticking wax, and fastened by means of pressure to the lower edge of the plate, prevents it from bending, which sometimes happens when the bees work it."
To carry out the directions here given, it is necessary to warm the besmeared comb-bar at a fire; the wax plate has also to be warmed. Having tried this plan, and found inconvenience attending it, especially from the wax curling with the heat and the difficulty of making it stick firm, to say nothing of the uncomfortableness of performing the operation before a fire on a hot day in July, we began to consider if a little carpentering might not do the work better and more pleasantly, and adopted the following plan:—We split or cut the comb-bars of the Woodbury super in half, lengthways, and, taking the unstamped edge between the two strips, joined them together again by small screws at the side, confining the wax plate tightly in the centre, with no possibility of its falling down. Where frames are used, of course the bar could not be cut in two (except with the "compound bar and frame," where the bar being loose, it might be as easily managed). The plan we adopt with an ordinary frame is to saw out an opening, about an inch or an inch and a half from either end, where the sides are morticed in; this opening we make with a keyhole-saw. Through it the wax plate is easily put, and, with a heated iron passed over the upper side of the bar, is made sufficiently firm. If the wax plates are too large, a portion may be cut off; an opening of full eleven inches long can be made without materially weakening the bar and frame.
Another, and perhaps the simplest, plan is, to fix a strip of wood with brads to the underside of the top frame or bar: place the wax sheet against this, then wedge another strip close to it, and thus hold the wax sheet firmly in the centre of the frame, taking care also to make the second strip of wood fast with brads.
The wax plates must not extend to the bottom of the frame; a space of at least one inch should be left for expansion, because the bees, in working the plate, stretch it down lower. We also use a few pins firmly pressed into the frames, and long enough to reach the edge of the plate; for by fixing three or four pins on either side, both at the sides and at the bottom, the plate may be held in an exactly central position within the frame. As before mentioned, when these directions are carried out, there is no fear of being troubled with crooked combs or bars.
The secretion of wax, and the method of its adaptation by the bees, is thus admirably described by Evans:—
"Thus filtered through your flutterer's folded mail
Clings the cooled wax, and hardens to a scale.
Swift at the well-known call, the ready train
(For not a buzz boon Nature breathes in vain)
Spring to each falling flake, and bear along
Their glossy burdens to the builder throng.
These, with sharp sickle, or with sharper tooth,
Pare each excrescence and each angle smooth,
Till now, in finish'd pride, two radiant rows
Of snow-white cells one mutual base disclose;
Six shining panels gird each polish'd round,
The door's fine rim, with waxen fillet bound,
While walls so thin, with sister walls combined,
Weak in themselves, a sure dependance find.
Others in firm phalanx ply their twinkling feet,
Stretch out the ductile mass, and form the street.
With many a cross-way, path, and postern gate,
That shorten to their range the spreading state."
