The apiary; or, bees, bee-hives, and bee culture [1866] / Being a familiar account of the habits of bees, and the most improved methods of management, with full directions, adapted for the cottager, farmer, or scientific apiarian

by Alfred Neighbor

III.—MODERN BEE-HIVES.

NUTT'S COLLATERAL HIVE.

HE late Mr. Nutt, author of "Humanity to Honey Bees," may be regarded as a pioneer of modern apiarians; we therefore select his hive wherewith to begin a description of those we have confidence in recommending. Besides, an account of Mr. Nutt's hive will necessarily include references to the various principles which subsequent inventors have kept in view.

Nutt's Collateral Hive consists of three boxes placed side by side (C, A, C), with an octagonal box b on the top, which covers a bell-glass. Each of the three boxes is nine inches high, nine inches wide, and eleven inches from back to front. Thin wooden partitions, in which six or seven openings corresponding with each other are made, divide these compartments, so that free access from one box to the other is afforded to the bees; this communication is stopped, when necessary, by a zinc slide passing down between each box. The octagonal cover B is about ten inches in diameter and twenty high, including the sloping octagonal roof, surmounted with an acorn as a finish. There are two large windows in each of the end boxes, and one in the centre box. Across the latter is a thermometer, scaled and marked so as to be an easy guide to the bee-master, showing him, by the rise in temperature, the increased accommodation required; this thermometer is a fixture, the indicating part being protected by two pieces of glass, to prevent the bees from coming between it and the window, and thereby obstructing the view.

D D are ventilators. In the centre of each of the end boxes is a double zinc tube, reaching down a little below the middle: the outer tube is a casing of plain zinc, with holes, about a quarter of an inch wide, dispersed over it; the inside one is of perforated zinc, with' openings so small as to prevent the escape of the bees; a flange or rim keeps the tubes suspended through a hole made to receive it. The object in having double tubing is to allow the inner one to be drawn up, and the perforations to be opened by pricking out the wax, or rather the propolis, with which bees close all openings in their hives. These tubes admit a thermometer, enclosed in a cylindrical glass, to be occasionally inserted during the gathering season; it requires to be left in the tube for about a quarter of an hour, and on its withdrawal, if found indicating ninety degrees or more, ventilation must be adopted to lower the temperature. The ornamental zinc top D must be left raised, and is easily kept in that position by putting the perforated part a little on one side.

The boxes before described are placed on a raised double floor-board, extending the whole length—viz., about thirty-six inches. The floor-board projects a few inches in front. In the centre is the entrance (as our engraving only shows the back of the hive, we must imagine it on the other side); it is made by cutting a sunken way, of about half an inch deep and three inches wide, in the floor-board, communicating only with the middle box; it is through this entrance alone that the bees find their way into the hive, access to the end boxes and the super being obtained from the inside. An alighting-board is fitted close under the entrance, for the bees to settle upon when returning laden with homey. This alighting-board is removable for the convenience of packing. The centre, or stock-box A, called by Mr. Nutt the Pavilion of Nature, is the receptacle for the swarm. For stocking this, it will be necessary to tack the side tins so as to close the side openings in the partition, and to tack some perforated zinc over the holes at top; the swarm may then be hived into it just the same as with a common hive. A temporary bottom board may be used if the box has to be sent any distance, or a cloth may be tied round to close the bottom (the latter plan is best, because allowing plenty of air); and when brought home at night, the bees being clustered at the top, the cloth or temporary bottom must be removed, the box gently placed on its own floor-board, and the hive set in the place it is permanently to occupy. E E are two block fronts, which open with a hinge. A semicircular hole, three inches long and two inches wide in the middle, is cut in the upper bottom-board, immediately under the window of each box; these apertures are closed by separate perforated zinc slides. These blocks, when opened, afford a ready means of reducing the temperature of the side boxes, a current of air being quickly obtained, and are also useful for allowing the bees to throw out any refuse.

The centre F is a drawer, in which is a feeding-trough, so constructed that the bees can descend through the opening before mentioned on to a false bottom of perforated zinc. Liquid food is easily poured in by pulling out the drawer a little way; the bees readily come down on to the perforated zinc, and take the food by inserting their probosces through the perforations, with no danger of being drowned. Care must be exercised that the food is not given in such quantity as to come above the holes; by this means; each hive has a supply of food accessible only to the inmates, with no possibility, when closely shut in, of attracting robber-bees from other hives.

The exterior of these hives is well painted with two coats of lead colour, covered with two coats of green, and varnished. Notwithstanding this preservation, it is absolutely essential to place such a hive under a shed or cover of some sort, as the action of the sun and rain is likely to decay the wood, whilst the extreme heat of a summer sun might cause the combs to fall from their foundations.

Neat and tasteful sheds may be erected, either of zinc supported by iron or wooden rods, or a thatched roof may be sustained in the same manner, and will form a pretty addition to the flower-garden.

When erecting a covering, it will be well to make it a foot or two longer, so as to allow of a cottage hive on either side, as the appearance of the whole is much improved by such an arrangement.

The following directions, with some adaptation, are from "Nutt on Honey-Bees":—

"In the middle box the bees are to be first placed: in it they should first construct their beautiful combs, and under the government of one sovereign, the mother of the hive, carry on their curious work, and display their astonishing architectural ingenuity. In this box, the regina of the colony, surrounded by her industrious, happy, humming subjects, carries on the propagation of her species, deposits in the cells prepared for the purpose by the other bees thousands of eggs, though she seldom deposits more than one egg in a cell at a time: these eggs are nursed up into a numerous progeny by the other inhabitants of the hive. It is at this time, when hundreds of young bees are daily coming into existence, that the collateral boxes are of the utmost importance, both to the bees domiciled in them and to their proprietors; for when the brood become perfect bees in a common cottager's hive, a swarm is the necessary consequence. The queen, accompanied by a vast number of her subjects, leaves the colony, and seeks some other place in which to carry on the work Nature has assigned her. But as swarming may, by proper precaution and attention to this mode of management, generally be prevented, it is good practice to do so, because the time necessarily required to establish a new colony, even supposing the cottager succeeds in saving the swarm, would otherwise be employed in collecting honey, and in enriching the old hive. Here, then, is one of the features of this plan—viz., the prevention of swarming. The period when symptoms of swarming begin to present themselves may be known by an unusual noise, the appearance of more than common activity among the bees in the middle box, and, above all, by a sudden rise of temperature, which will be indicated by the quicksilver in the thermometer rising to seventy-five degrees, as scaled on the thermometer in the box; when these symptoms are apparent, the bee-master may conclude that additional space is required. The top sliding tin should now be withdrawn from under the bell-glass, which will open to the bees a new store-room; this they will soon occupy, and fill with combs and honey of pure whiteness, if the weather be favourable for their uninterrupted labour. It may be well here to mention, that if the glass have a small piece of clean worker comb attached to the perforated ventilating tube, the bees will more speedily commence their operations in it. When the glass is nearly filled, which in a good season will be in a very short space of time, the bees will again require increased accommodation; this will also be indicated by the thermometer further rising to eighty-five degrees. The end box, as thereon marked, must now be given them. Previously to drawing up a slide to enlarge their crowded house, the manager should carefully take off the empty end box he intends to open to them, and thoroughly cleanse it, and then smear or dress the inside of it with a little liquid honey. Thus prepared, he must return the box to its proper situation, and then withdraw the sliding tin that hitherto has cut it off from the middle box; by so doing, the store-room is again enlarged. The bees will commence operations in this new apartment. This simple operation, performed at the proper time, generally prevents swarming; by it the queen gains a vast addition to her dominions, and, consequently, increasing space for the multiplying population of her domicile. Provided the weather continue fine, and the thermometer has risen to ninety-five degrees, as marked on the scale, the remaining tin may be also withdrawn, thereby giving the bees admittance to another box. There is now no lack of store-rooms or of employment for our indefatigable labourers. The cylinder thermometer is required to be occasionally dropped into the ventilating tube of the side boxes to ascertain their temperature; for, if exceeding or approaching that of the middle box, it must be reduced by ventilating: this is done by raising the zinc tops, to allow the air to pass through the perforations. The grand object of this system is to keep the end boxes and the bell-glass cooler than the pavilion or middle box, so as to induce the queen to propagate her species there and there only, and not in the depriving part of the hive; by this means the side and upper combs are in no way discoloured by brood. The queen requires a considerable degree of warmth; the middle box does not require more ventilation than the additional openings afford. The bees enjoy coolness in the side boxes, and thereby the whiteness and purity of the luscious store are increased."

After the foregoing directions for the working of the hive, it remains to be told how to obtain possession of the store, and to get rid of our industrious tenants from the super and end boxes, of which the super glass will be almost sure to be filled first, having been first given to them. The operation of taking honey is best performed in the middle of a fine sunny day. The mode we prefer is as follows:—Pass an ordinary table-knife all round underneath the rim of the glass, to loosen the cement, properly called propolis; then take a piece of fine wire, or a piece of string will do, and, having hold of the two ends, draw it under the glass very slowly, so as to allow the bees to get out of the way. Having brought the string through, the glass is now separated from the hive; but it is as well to leave the glass in its place for an hour or so; the commotion of the bees will then have subsided: and another advantage we find is, that the bees suck up the liquid and seal up the cells broken by the cutting off. You can then pass underneath the glass two pieces of tin or zinc; the one may be the proper slide to prevent the inmates of the hive coming out at the apertures, the other tin keeps all the bees in the glass close prisoners. After having confined the bees in the glass for a short time, you must see whether they manifest symptoms of uneasiness, because, if they do not, it may be concluded that the queen is among them. In such a case, replace the glass, and recommence the operation on a future day. It is not often that her majesty is in the depriving hive or glass; but this circumstance does sometimes happen, and the removal at such a time must be avoided. When the bees that are prisoners run about in great confusion and restlessness, the operator may conclude that the queen is absent, and that all is right. The glass may be taken away a little distance off, and placed in a flower-pot or other receptacle, where it will be safe when inverted and the tin taken away: the bees will then be glad to make their escape back to their hive. A little tapping at the sides of the glass will render their tarriance uncomfortable, and the glass may then be taken into a darkened room or out-house, with only a small aperture admitting light, which must be open; the bees, like all insects, make towards the light, and so escape. The bee-master should brush them off with a feather from the comb as they can be reached; but on no account, if there are many bees, should the glass be left, because the bees that are in the glass will gorge themselves to their full, and speedily bring a host of others from the adjacent hives, who, in a very little time, would leave only the empty combs. It is truly marvellous how soon they will carry all the store back again, if allowed to do so. An empty glass should be put on to the hive in place of the full one, as it will attract the bees up, thereby preventing the too close crowding of the hive; and, if the summer be not too far advanced, they will work more honey-comb in it.

The removal of the end boxes is a somewhat similar process, but they should on no account be taken away, at the same time as the glass, or, indeed, at a time when any other hive is being—robbed we were going to say, for it is robbery to the bees: they intended the honey for their winter food, and are much enraged at being deprived of it. First shut down the dividing tin; the bees in the end box are now prisoners separated from the hive; keep them so half an hour, and then take away the box bodily to another part of the garden, or into the dark out-house, as before recommended.

It may not be out of place here to say something respecting the enthusiastic inventor of the collateral hive—Thomas Nutt—who was an inhabitant of Spalding, in Lincolnshire. Having been disabled during a considerable period by rheumatic fever, he devoted all his attention to bees, at a time when bee-culture was but little valued; and, although it must be admitted that two boxes were used side by side long before Mr. Nutt's day, still it is due to him to state that the adoption of three boxes was entirely his own idea, and that, so far as he then knew, the collateral system was his original invention. His statements have been severely criticised, and it does appear almost incredible that the weight of honey which he names could have been produced in one season. But as in the district where he lived there is grown an immense quantity of mustard seed—the flowers of which afford excellent forage for bees—the honey harvests there would, doubtless, be very large. If Mr. Nutt has given his little favourites too much praise, it will be only charitable now to account for his statements by an excess of zeal and enthusiasm in this his study of bee-culture. It may be that the golden harvests he spoke and wrote of have been so far useful that they have induced many to commence bee-keeping, some of whom, whilst they condemned his statements, have themselves written really useful and practical works on the subject, which otherwise might possibly never have appeared. As the monks of old kept the lamp of religion burning, however dimly, until a more enlightened age, so Thomas Nutt may have assisted in a somewhat similar manner by energetically propounding his views, and thereby causing other apiarians to rise up, whose names are now as familiar to us as household words, and whose works posterity will value. The writer of these pages has often accompanied Mr. Nutt on his visits to his patrons in the neighbourhood of London, and seen him perform his operations regardless of the anger of the bees, and free from all fear of their stings. He often expatiated on the cruelty of the brimstone match and suffocation, denouncing the barbarous custom in the following terms: "You may as well kill the cow for her milk, or the hen for her eggs, as the bee for its honey; why continue to light the fatal match, when every cottager in England has the means of saving this most useful and valuable insect?"

NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED SINGLE BOX HIVE.

We have introduced the "Single Box Hive" to suit the convenience of those who, though desirous of keeping bees on the improved principle, do not wish to incur the expense or devote the space which is necessary for Nutt's hive.

It consists of a lower or stock-box A, eleven inches square, nine inches deep, with three large windows, a thermometer D, as in Nutt's, being fixed across the front one, protected at the sides by strips of glass, to prevent the bees obscuring the quicksilver from sight, B is a cover the same size as the lower hive, large enough to allow space for a bell-glass nine inches wide, six inches deep. E is the ventilator between the glass and the stock-hive, intended to prevent the queen travelling into the super hive, and also, by cooling the hive, to endeavour to prevent swarming; a sloping pagoda roof, with an acorn top, completes the upper story. A floor-board with a block front, as in Nutt's collateral, forms the base, the entrance being sunk, as before described, and furnished with zinc slides to reduce or close it as may be required. To stock a hive of this description, it is necessary to send the stock-box to the party with whom you have agreed for the supply of a swarm. In the evening of the day the hive is thus tenanted, remove it to the position it is designed permanently to occupy; if the swarm has to be procured from a distance, and is transported by rail or other conveyance, a perforated zinc slide should be substituted for the plain slide that covers the top, and a large piece or perforated zinc must also be tacked to the bottom after the swarm has settled in. Thus securely confined, with a free circulation of air throughout, bees that have been' swarmed the day before may be safely sent any distance that will allow of their being released the day after; because bees, though they provision themselves for a couple of days, cannot with safety be confined in an empty hive much longer.

Having now, we will suppose, procured your swarm, and placed it in a south or south-east aspect, you may, with advantage if the weather be wet, give a little liquid food: the feeding in this hive is performed at the top of the stock-box, where the glass is worked. Our round feeding pan, or the new feeding bottle, may here be used. Any fancy as to the position may be indulged in, but must be settled on by the time the bees are set at liberty, because any alteration afterwards is detrimental to the working of the hive. The bees, on first issuing forth, carefully mark their new abode and the surrounding objects, so that, if a change be made, they are completely thrown out in their observations, which confuses them not a little, and occasions loss. Bees always return to the same spot; it is the locality that they know, and if the hive is moved a less distance than a mile, thousands return to the spot on which the hive has been accustomed to stand.

Allow your bees to collect honey and build their combs for ten days or a fortnight. Much now depends on the weather; if fine, by this time they will require additional room, which will be indicated by the thermometer D rapidly rising; 100 degrees is the swarming point. The hive must be kept below this by ventilation.

Access must now be given to the flat bell-glass at the top, which is done by withdrawing the top slide. In a few hours, sometimes immediately, the work of comb-building begins in the glass—all the sooner, if a piece of clean empty comb be placed therein.

It is of service to keep the glass warm by means of a worsted or baize bag; it prevents the temperature from falling at night, when much comb-building is carried on, providing the heat is not allowed to escape. Probably, if all goes on well, in three weeks the glass will be found filled with fine white honey-comb. When you find that the comb is well sealed up, it is time to take it off; but if the cells are unfilled and unsealed, let the labourers complete their work—a little experience will soon enable the bee-keeper to determine this point.

The plan to be adopted for taking glasses of honey, comb is the same as described for Nutt's hive.

TAYLOR'S AMATEUR SHALLOW BOX OR EIGHT-BAR HIVE.

Taylor's Amateur Hive, as seen by reference to the engraving, consists of three boxes—the lower one, A, is the stock-box, in which the swarm is first placed; B is the first super; and C, the centre box: all three boxes are of the same diameter, viz., thirteen and a half inches square inside, A, the stock-box, is seven and a half inches deep; B, six and a half inches: both are fitted with eight moveable bars, each bar being one inch and an eighth wide, with spaces of half an inch between, and all easily removed by unscrewing the crown-board, in which are two openings closed by zinc slides. The middle box, C, has no bars, and is still shallower than either of the other boxes, being five inches deep. In many localities and seasons, the third box may not be required. Each box has two windows, one at the back and another at the side, a zinc shutter, sliding in a groove, excluding light and retaining warmth. The box C differs from the others in another respect; instead of bars, it has a grating made by seven openings, each half an inch wide and nine inches long: these three boxes stand on a stout floor-board, in which is cut the entrance way, four inches wide and three-eighths of an inch high. The floor-board projects so as to support an outer cover of half-inch wood, surmounted by a sloping roof. This is an effectual protection from the weather, and is necessary when hives are exposed; of course, if placed in a bee-house, such protection may be dispensed with. The outer case is well painted, of a green colour, and when it is used the hive may be placed in any part of the garden. The dimensions of this hive, with outside cover, are eighteen inches square, and two feet six inches high.

Suitable stands are provided, consisting of a stout pedestal with four feet. Stakes should be driven into the ground to secure the whole against wind. Height from the ground, four feet three inches.

The bars before alluded to are for the purpose of inducing the bees to build parallel combs, for without such an arrangement extraction would be impossible. It is a great convenience, in many ways, to be able to take out a bar of comb; it gives such a complete control over the hive.

To ensure comb-building on the bars, pieces of clean worker-comb should always be carefully preserved; and before a swarm is put in, either every bar or, if guide comb is not plentiful, every other bar should have a piece fixed to it in the following manner:—Cut a piece of clean empty comb of the required size, say two inches square, not less; heat a common flat iron, with which slightly warm the bar; then melt a little bees'-wax upon it; draw the comb quickly over the heated iron, hold it down on the centre of the bar, giving a very slight movement backwards and forwards; then leave the wax to grow cold, and, if cleverly managed, the guide will be found firmly attached. Care must be taken that the pitch or inclination of the comb be the same as it is in the hives—upwards from the centre of each comb. A new plan has lately been introduced by Mr. Woodbury, of Exeter, to facilitate the correct construction of parallel combs.

NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.

Our Improved Cottage Hive is neatly made of straw, bound with cane, and therefore very durable.[9] The lower hive is covered with a wooden top, having in it three holes, through which the bees convey their honey into three middle-sized bell glasses with ventilators, which, when filled, hold about 6 lbs. each. There is a hoop at the bottom, another round the top of the lower hive; to this the wooden crown-board is fastened. These hoops are a great improvement, and are less liable to harbour insects than if straw alone were used. The floor-board, as its name implies, is a wooden board one and a quarter inch thick, with a projection of three or four inches under the entrance to form an alighting place. This entrance is cut out of, or sunk in, the board.

[9] This is the hive referred to by the Bee-Master of the Times, when he says:—"The second kind of hive I alluded to is made of straw, and may be purchased at Neighbour's, in Holborn.... It is so well made that it will last very long. I have had one in constant use during ten years, and it is still as good as when it was bought."

There are three windows in the lower hive, each closed with a shutter; these are very useful and interesting for inspecting the progress made. Across the centre window is a thermometer, enclosed at the sides by slips of glass. The window shutters being painted green, add very much to its appearance. The upper hive, which is merely a cover for the glasses, is a conical-topped hive, also made of straw bound with cane; a hoop is worked into the straw, and made sufficiently large to allow the cover to drop over the top hoop of the lower hive, keeping the whole close, and preventing wet from drifting in. A zinc ventilator, ornamentally painted, forms the apex: this is useful in letting the confined hot air pass away in warm weather. The ventilator is opened by raising it. The dimensions of the lower or stock-hive are fifteen inches diameter, nine and a half inches deep outside; its weight, when empty, seven and a half pounds. The cover, or top hive, is twelve inches deep and fifteen inches in diameter; the ornamental zinc top being four inches deep. The whole is about twenty-four inches high. The weight of a hive packed, including glasses, &c., is about 18 lbs.

These hives have a tasteful appearance in the garden, but they require some further protection from the weather in the form of a cover or of a bee-house—contrivances that have yet to be described. In extreme cold weather, a little additional protection, by having matting folded round them, will be advisable.

One of the advantages this hive has over the common cottage hive is, that it affords opportunity for the humane management of bees. The owner has also the power of taking a glass of honey-comb of pure quality, free from the extraneous matter known as "bee-bread," instead of combs that are darkened by having brood hatched in them. By this system, we have combs newly made and used only for depositing the honey first put into them; hence the name "virgin honey." These glasses have a very pretty appearance, and, when nicely filled, are very convenient for home use or for making presents. The lower hive is the receptacle for the bees; when a swarm is placed in this hive, they immediately proceed to fill it with combs, in which to store honey for themselves, and for cells to breed in. This hive remains undisturbed.

The best mode of tenanting a hive of this description is by placing an early and strong swarm in it, which may be generally procured of a neighbouring bee-keeper; if from a distance, considerable care is necessary to admit plenty of air; the shaking attendant upon carriage irritates the bees so much, that, if not well ventilated, there is danger of the swarm being stifled, and the finer the swarm, the greater the danger. For the purpose of ventilation, remove the slides and substitute perforated zinc, wrapping the hive up in a coarse cloth of open texture (dispensing with the floor-board during transit when the distance is great).

It is necessary only to send the lower or stock hive to the party furnishing the swarm, taking the precaution to fix the slides at top with tacks, as the hive has to be inverted to receive the bees. They are shaken into it in the usual manner,[10] as they cluster around the branch of the tree or shrub on which they may have chosen to alight. After the hiving is accomplished, the hive should be left near to catch any stragglers, for there will always be a few; towards evening, close the entrance, and remove them to the exact position they are intended permanently to occupy. Success depends on this, and also on their careful removal on the day or evening of swarming. The following morning the bees labour in the new location, marking well their habitation before they take flight, and to which they will not fail to return, loaded with luscious store.

[10] Sometimes swarms alight on trunks of trees or on walls, where it may be difficult to shake or brush them off. In the Journal of Horticulture, Mr. Woodbury mentions an instance of this kind, which he experienced last summer:—"A swarm clustered among the large branches of a pear-tree, just at their point of union with the trunk. In this case he merely supported a straw hive just over the swarm with the left hand, whilst he struck the trunk of the tree with the open palm of the right. The vibration thus produced sent the bees up into the hive with great rapidity, and the entire swarm was speedily hived in the most satisfactory manner." A few whiffs of smoke will accelerate upward movement of swarms in such circumstances.

A fortnight must be allowed for filling the stock-hive; then, if the weather be fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again, as will be indicated by the thermometer rising rapidly to 100 degrees or upwards. One of the zinc slides on the wooden top must now be withdrawn, and a bell-glass put on, covered and protected by the upper hive; the other glasses may then be given in the same manner, a day or two after which, should the weather continue favourable, all signs of swarming will at once disappear, the bees now having increased store room, which they will readily fill with comb. It is often found useful to attach a piece of clean empty honey-comb to the ventilating tube of the glass; it is an attraction, and induces the bees to commence working in it sooner than they otherwise would do. The ventilator should always remain open during the day, to allow the hot air to pass away from the interior, thereby contributing to the whiteness and beauty of the work; the bees enjoy the refreshment of coolness thereby afforded, and they work the faster for it. At evening, all ventilation should be stopped, and the glasses wrapped round with flannel or some warm material, for the reasons mentioned at [page 65].

The directions for taking honey are much the same as before mentioned. Some apiarians, however, consider that deprivation is more easily accomplished by disconnecting the super over night, in the manner described at [page 58]. The bee-keeper, equipped with bee-dress and gloves, must first raise the glass of comb, and, blowing a little smoke to intimidate and drive back the bees, wedge it up all round, an inch or so from the crown-board, by means of three or four blocks, thus to remain all night. This operation is best performed a little before dusk. Bees are then less likely to come out, and if they should do so, will speedily return. The opening in the crown-board remains unclosed, to afford the bees the opportunity of descending, and joining the stock-hive below, which they will naturally do for warmth. The upper straw-hive, or cover for the glasses, is better placed on for the night. Early in the following morning, before the bees are much about, the super will be ready for removal. The few bees that remain within may be speedily induced to quit, and will fly to the entrance. The slides covering the holes in the crown-board must be inserted, or an empty glass can be put on, to take the full one's place. A slide seven and a half inches square is furnished with the hive; this is useful to remove the glass upon.

The holes in the wooden top of this hive are of a peaked shape, to act as a preventive against slaughtering any bees whilst pushing the slide in for the purpose of removing the glass when full. The tacks before alluded to should be removed from the slides when the hive is fixed in its place; they are now in the way of cutting off the glass. The entrance slide is very serviceable during the winter months, to lessen the passage way, thereby' preventing the admission of too much cold air: it is also occasionally useful on a summer evening, to lessen the entrance when moths are troublesome; for if there be only a small opening, the bees can guard it, and easily repulse intruders. During the time of gathering, they require the whole width to remain open.

When the weather is so unfavourable as to prevent the bees leaving home for a few days after being hived, it will be necessary to feed them. Bees should not be fed in the midst of winter; the proper time is in the autumn or in the spring.

The best mode of feeding is at the top of the stock hive. This is done by using the round feeder.

The bottle feeder may be used instead of the round feeder, and in the same place, by those who give the preference to that method.

Whilst on the subject of feeding, it may be well to suggest to the bee-keeper, that, after the honey harvest, he should ascertain the state of the stock-hive, because we have sometimes found that hives which were very strong during summer, and which have yielded a good supply of honey, have been left rather poorly off for the winter. No doubt, under the impression that those nicely-filled supers which the bees intended for themselves would be amply sufficient for their sustenance, they have, for the most part, devoted the space below to the queen for breeding, little imagining that the precious store would be taken away, and consequently have left themselves too small provision for autumn and winter.

The apiarian having, therefore, so richly reaped the fruit of his bees' labours, it is but right that he should guard against the labourers themselves suffering any want therefrom. The state of the interior of the hive may be ascertained by applying a weighing machine, and the requisite supply administered by feeding. Both weighing machine and feeder are described further on.

The simplicity and easy management of this hive have deservedly rendered it an especial favourite, combining, as it does, real utility with many conveniences to satisfy the curious. Not a few bee-keepers desire to unite the two qualifications, and no hives combine these advantages in a greater degree than Neighbour's improved cottage hive.

IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE WITHOUT WINDOWS.

This hive is of precisely the same size, construction, and management as the last mentioned, with the exception that it has no windows or thermometer in the lower or stock hive. The apiarian, with this hive, will have to trust more to his own judgment as regards the likelihood of swarming, and must watch the appearance the bees present at the entrance. When it is time to put on supers, in order to prevent swarming, premonition will be given by the unusual numbers crowding about the entrance, as well as by the heat of the weather, making it evident that more room is required for the increasing population.

Not being able to form an idea of the state of the hive in spring and autumn by looking into the stock-hive, it will be advisable to adopt the means of weighing. A stock at Michaelmas should weigh 20 lbs., exclusive of the hive, or be made up to that weight by feeding.

THE LADIES' OBSERVATORY OR CRYSTAL BEE-HIVE.

The following engraving illustrates the construction of the Ladies' Observatory Hive. The stock-hive is cylindrical, with a flat top and a hole in the centre; the dimensions twelve and a half inches inside, eight and a half inches deep; the outer cover being raised, and made of stout glass, so as not easily to break. A support, composed of even wooden bars fixed on a pedestal from the floor-board, is very useful for the bees to cling to and attach their combs, instead of resting wholly against the glass.

The floor-board is of mahogany, the border being French polished. A middle-sized bell-glass, for deprivation, is placed over the hole; this hole may be closed by a zinc slide. A cover of straw, eighteen inches deep, fifteen inches wide, with a zinc ventilating top similar to that affixed to the cottage hive, completes the arrangements. The weight of the stock-hive and board is about 16 lbs.

This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of having the opportunity of more closely examining the workmanship of these industrious and interesting insects, as the whole of the interior may be exposed to view; it is particularly suitable for a window or an indoor apiary, and will also be found a valuable addition to the green-house. Under these circumstances, the entrance-way should be covered with a flat piece of glass, and an aperture cut in the sash corresponding with the entrance to the hive; through the glazed passage the bees may then find egress and ingress without being able to gain access to the apartment. An alighting board, four inches wide, must be fixed outside, on a level with the entrance.

We had a hive of this kind in operation at the Great Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862, fixed after the manner above described. It answered admirably, and excited much interest and curiosity, though placed there under many disadvantages.

When a hive of this kind is to be stocked, procure an early and strong swarm, which must be temporarily hived in a common straw hive, from which dislodge the bees into the glass hive, but for this purpose a little preparation will have to be made. Spread a sheet on the ground, place the mahogany floor-board on it with the support, put three bricks, or some solid blocks of about the same substance, upon which the glass will rest; then, with a sharp and sudden blow, precipitate the swarm out of the straw hive on to the floor-board and support, place the glass hive on the bricks, and the bees will collect under the bars and on to the pedestal. In about one hour's time the whole will have settled quietly and all the stragglers on the board will have collected together, the swarm hanging pear-shaped from the bar support; the bricks can now be removed, and the glass put in its right place on the floor-board. The straw cover being put on the hive, it can be removed to the place it is destined permanently to occupy.

The light should not be admitted for some days after hiving; if undisturbed, the bees will speedily build comb, working from the wooden bars, which are placed there for their assistance and support. In ten days or a fortnight, if the weather continue fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again; the opening at the top must now be unstopped, and the bell-glass put on, guide-comb having been previously fixed. The directions given for the improved cottage hive equally apply to the ladies' observatory hive.

It is advisable, in winter, to furnish the glass stock-hive with more protection from cold than is afforded by the straw cover alone; some thick baize, or wrapper of wadding, for which there is space between the glass hive and the cover, will prevent so much moisture condensing on the sides of the glass. Moisture is injurious, causing the combs to grow mouldy; a little protection in the way of wrapping very much prevents this.

The hole at top is used for supplying food, should the apiarian fear the stock of honey is in danger of running short; either the bottle feeder or the round feeder maybe used for the purpose.

COTTAGER'S HIVE, FOR TAKING HONEY IN STRAW CAPS, WITHOUT THE DESTRUCTION OF THE BEES.

A very prevalent opinion exists, that bees do better in straw than in hives made of any other material. Another opinion prevails, viz., that the old-fashioned straw hive is the least expensive, the most simple, and the most productive. Although we cannot go so far as this, we are willing to admit that a simplified adaptation of the humane system to the old common straw hive is the most suitable to put into the hands of that large class of bee-keepers—cottagers. By these the more fanciful hives will be instantly condemned; besides, the expense puts them quite beyond the reach of the poorer class. The object aimed at in planning our Cottager's Hive has been to furnish a depriving hive that should be at once easy of management, inexpensive, and convenient. The stock-hive, into which the bees are first hived, is a round straw hive, having a flat top, with a hole in the centre. The size of this lower hive is seven or eight inches deep, fourteen inches across the bottom, finished with a wooden hoop, which adds very much to the firmness and durability of the hive. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, with a way sunk therein for the entrance. A small round mat of straw closes the hole in the top; this mat may be fixed by wooden pegs. We have now described what is termed the stock-hive, which is, in fact, an old-fashioned straw hive, adapted, modernised, and improved to the more humane, viz., the depriving, system. The weight of the stock-hive, with its floor-board, is about 7 lbs.

The super or cap hive is about seven inches deep, eight inches in diameter, and, when filled, contains about 10 lbs. of honey and comb. A glass window, which is placed at the side, is useful for inspecting the progress made in filling it!

A common straw hive, sufficiently deep to cover, drops over the super, keeping the window dark, and fitting close on to the stock-hive. This cover-hive may be made fast by driving in two skewers, one on either side, to keep the whole firm. Unless placed in a bee-house or under a shed, the outside should be painted; or a piece of oil-cloth, or water-proof covering of any kind, shaped so as to shoot off the rain, will save the trouble of paint, and answer the purpose. If no protection of this sort is used, the rain is likely to rot the straw. As a covering, cottagers often use straight stiff thatching straw, sewed together; this contrivance is termed a "hackle," and has a pretty appearance, particularly if a number of hives are in a row. Care has to be exercised that mice do not make the covering hive a resting-place. Mortar is often used for fastening round the hive at the bottom: this is a bad plan, as it forms a harbour for insects; the wooden hoop fits so close as to leave little necessity for anything of the kind.

The principle of the depriving system is so much the same with all our hives, that a good deal of repetition is necessary in describing in detail the management of each separate variety. The object aimed at with the cottager's hive, as, indeed, with all our hives, is to provide a compartment for the bees to live in with their queen, she being the mother of all. It is intended, by inducing the queen to remain in her original apartment, that all breeding should be there performed, as well as the storing of bee-bread and honey, for the winter sustenance of the bees. The cap hive, or upper chamber, known as the "super," is for the storing of honey, which the bee-keeper looks upon as a surplus, and which, at the close of the honey gathering, or as soon as filled, he intends to deprive the bees of, and appropriate to his own use, of course taking care to leave sufficient in the lower or stock hive for winter sustenance.

The mode of stocking a hive of this kind is so familiarly known, that any who at all understand the hiving of bees into a common straw hive can make no mistake or find any difficulty in performing it. Lest these pages should fall into the hands of persons who are not so acquainted, we will refer them to the directions already given at pages [21] and [72].

The hive may be smeared inside with a little honey, if at hand; but this is unimportant, as a clean hive answers well. Some older bee-keepers prefer to give a little dressing, to encourage the bees to like their new home.

After the swarm has been in the hive two weeks, the straw super hive may be put on, first removing the straw mat, to give the bees access to it. If the hive be a stock, that is, a swarm of the last or previous years, the super may be put on as soon as the weather is fine and warm, in May. But much depends on the weather and strength of the hive, as regards the time occupied, by the bees in filling the super; in favourable weather a fortnight suffices.

If, on looking in at the little window, the bee-master sees that the cells are sealed over, the cap of honey may be removed in the mode already described. The cells near the window are the last to be filled, so, when they are sealed, it is safe to conclude that the combs in the unseen parts are also finished.

Sometimes the queen ascends and deposits her eggs; if, on turning up the super, brood be visible, replace the cap for a few days, until the young bees quit their cells. When thus emptied, honey will be deposited in lieu of the brood.

Suitable pedestals for these hives to stand upon may be obtained. It is important that these be firmly fixed, and the hive also made fast to the stand, to prevent its being blown over by high winds.

WOODBURY BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Mr. Woodbury's Bar and Frame Hive, as originally made, consists of a wooden box, fourteen and a half inches square inside, nine inches deep. This is a hive of large size, but the actual habitable space inside is lessened by the room occupied by the frames, of which there are ten; these rest on a rabbet a little below the surface, leaving a space of three-eighths of an inch between the upper side of the bars and the crown-board. This allows a free passage on the top for the bees, entirely obviating the necessity of making excavations in the crown-board, as has hitherto been recommended. Each frame is seven-eighths of an inch wide, and rests in notches, with a space of half an inch between each. The frames extend to within three-eighths of an inch of the floor-board, so as to hang without touching any part, leaving about the same distance from the sides. It will be seen that there is a free passage for the bees on every side, and they are thus kept from coming in contact with the sides of the hive. Our engraving shows the hive open, and exposes to view the top of the ten bars and frames, as they range from back to front. A window is also shown; this is placed in the engraving over the entrance, but the proper position would be just opposite. The drawing is made so as to show back and front at once. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, having two "keys" on the under side to prevent warping.

WOODBURY STRAW BAR AND FRAME HIVE.

Since the introduction of the wood hive by Mr. Woodbury, that gentleman has recommended, in the Journal of Horticulture, that the stock-hive be made of straw, of exactly the same dimensions; this material being wanner in winter, slightly ventilating, and allowing of absorption. Bees, during cold weather, cluster together to generate the requisite degree of heat; the temperature of the interior of the hive being thus so much higher than the external atmosphere, a good deal of moisture condenses at the top and on the sides of the hive. The straw, as before stated, prevents this dampness hanging about the hive, and tends to keep the inmates more healthy. Dampness in a hive is a fruitful source of mischief, causing empty combs to grow mouldy, and is injurious in many ways.

The square straw hives, and a machine for making them, exhibited in the Austrian department of the International Exhibition of 1862, suggested the idea of employing that material for English bar and frame hives. We have had a machine made somewhat similar to the one exhibited, and suited to the size of our hives, by which our hive-maker is able to manufacture neat square straw hives. These have a wood frame at top, an inch deep, with the requisite notches to allow the ten-comb frames to hang. A similar frame forms the base, the straw being worked between. The floor-board is one and a quarter inch thick, "keyed" with stout keys, as before mentioned. An inch projection is left on all sides beyond the exterior of the hive, from which it is slightly chamfered down. An entrance, four inches wide, is cut out of the substance of the board, beginning at the edge, and continuing on the same level until inside the hive, where it slopes upwards. This entrance is about three-eighths of an inch high where the hive crosses it.

These straw hives have been generally made without windows, as Mr. Woodbury and other scientific apiarians so prefer them. They consider that glass windows are unsuited for winter, because then moisture condenses on the glass. There is no doubt that the having a peep-hole or two in a hive adds very agreeably to its value for amateur bee-keepers, and, to meet the wishes of such, we have had straw hives constructed with windows. It is not every one who would like to lift out the frames as often as is necessary for an inspection of the state of the colony, nor, perhaps, is it advisable to be often thus meddling. The windows have also a very neat appearance. We have hives with one, and some with two and three windows; of course, a little extra expense is incurred where these are made, but that is not objected to by those who approve of the additional convenience. The crown-board (if correct to call a straw top by that name) has, like the hive, a frame of wood all round, and a square, piece of wood in the centre, with a two-inch hole; this hole is for the purpose of administering food, in a mode to be explained hereafter. A circular block of wood, four inches in diameter, closes the opening.

WOODBURY'S GLASS BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Some bee-keepers like to be able to make a full and daily inspection of the hive; we have, therefore, prepared a few hives, constructed of wooden frames, enclosed on all sides and on the top with window-glass. The dimensions are precisely the same as those before mentioned, and allow the same number of bars and frames (ten). The crown has a round hole cut in the glass to admit of feeding. The four sides are constructed of double glass, to preserve the bees from variations of temperature. We cannot, however, recommend this hive for a winter residence for the bees; we should prefer lifting the combs out with the bees, and placing them in a straw hive of similar construction, to pass through the ordeal of the winter season. A stock of bees might be kept through the year in a hive of this kind, but would require well wrapping round to keep out the cold. There should be a small glass over the hole at top, so as to allow the moisture to arise and condense, instead of doing so in the hive. The operation of exchanging the hive is so easy, that we should be content to place a stock in one, say, from April to September, and shift it in the autumn. Such a hive is a very pleasing object of interest, as in it the whole commonwealth of bees is exposed, to view; and the hive need not be obscured from daylight, provided it be protected from sun and rain. All the external wood-work is of oak-colour, varnished, so that the appearance of the Glass Bar and Frame Hive is extremely neat and much approved of.

FRAMES.

As before mentioned, each stock-hive has ten of these frames—each thirteen inches long, by seven and a quarter inches high, with a five-eighths of an inch projection at each upper end, which rests in the notch, either back or front. The width, both of the bar and frame, is seven-eighths of an inch; this is less, by a quarter of an inch, than the bar recommended by the older apiarians. Mr. Woodbury—whose authority on the modern plans for keeping bees is of great weight—finds the seven-eighths of an inch bar an improvement, because with them the combs are closer together, and require fewer bees to cover the brood. Then, too, in the same space that eight old-fashioned bars occupied, the narrower frames admit of an additional bar, so that, by using these, increased accommodation is afforded for breeding and the storing of honey.

IMPROVED COMB BAR.

Section of Bar.

Mr. Woodbury says that this little contrivance has proved very effectual in securing straight combs when guide-combs are not obtainable. The lower angles are rounded off, whilst a central rib is added, of about one-eighth of an inch in breadth and depth. This central rib extends to within half an inch of each end, where it is removed, in order to admit of the bar fitting into the usual notch. All that is necessary to ensure the regular formation of combs is, to coat the underneath surface of the central rib with melted wax. Mr. Woodbury further says: "My practice is to use plain bars whenever guide-combs are attainable, as those can be attached with much greater facility to a plain than to a ribbed bar; but whenever I put in a bar without comb, I always use one of the improved ones. By this method, crooked and irregular combs are altogether unknown in my apiary."

Most of our bars are made with the ridge; but should any of our customers prefer the flat ones, we keep a few to supply their requirements.

With the moveable bar and frame hive, every comb is available for extraction, and may easily be taken out of the hive; each comb being fixed within its frame, there is less disturbance to the bees than if the combs were fixed to the sides, as is the case with ordinary hives. A strip of wood, about half an inch wide, rests on the floor-board; in this strip are ten notches, made to receive the lower part of the frames, so as to retain them in their places at equal distances from each other. A difficulty is found, with a well-stocked hive, in dropping the frames into the exact notches, so that it is not necessary to have these rack works always in use; but when any movement of the hive is made, it is essential to have the frames firmly fixed by the aid of this contrivance. It is also advisable to have the frames perpendicularly supported until the combs are built, so, in order that the frames should hang true, the hive ought to be on the level. A little inclination may be given to it from back to front, causing the hive to fall slightly towards the entrance, so as to allow the moisture inside the hive, caused by the exhalations of the bees, to run off.

COMPOUND BAR FRAME.

In the Journal of Horticulture, Mr. Woodbury thus describes the compound bar frame. Being his own adaptation, we cannot do better than use his own words:—"This is a contrivance of my own, which I have found very advantageous in enabling me to use frames in stock-hives, and bars in supers, without forfeiting the advantages arising from the unlimited interchangeability of every comb in every hive and super in the apiary. Its construction will be readily understood by an inspection of the annexed sketch, in which the comb bar is shown slightly raised from its frame. The bar itself is thirteen and a quarter inches long, by seven-eighths of an inch wide, and three-eighths of an inch thick. When the comb bar is in its place, the whole forms a frame thirteen inches long, by seven and a quarter inches high (inside measure), with five-eighths of an inch projection at each end, which rests in its appropriate notch in either the back or front of the hive. When filled with comb, the bar becomes so firmly cemented to the frame as to admit of its being handled with facility." This contrivance is, no doubt, very excellent in the hands of Mr. Woodbury; but in the hands of the unpractised severe mishaps may arise. In warm weather the propolis and wax, with which the bees cement the bar to the frame, become soft; consequently, in handling the frames, unless dexterity is used, the comb is likely to drop out. We therefore recommend that the bar and frame be made both in one: greater firmness and simplicity are thereby gained. Some of these compound bars and frames are kept in stock at our establishment, though they cannot be recommended for general use; but should anyone prefer them, they can be supplied at the same price as the common frames. In describing the stock-hives of wood, straw, and glass, allusion has frequently been made to the depriving hives technically called "supers." These are also made of glass, in wood frames, thirteen inches inside, six inches deep, with eight bars (without frames). The above engraving represents the super used with the bar and frame hive.

Honey-combs in supers are better when made thicker than those for breeding, consequently the bars are placed a little further apart than in the lower or stock hive; they are either the Woodbury Ribbed, contrived to induce the straight building of combs, or flat bars with guide-combs affixed.

COVERS.

A loose outer case, forming a complete cover for the hive, is found very useful. The case is made in two parts, for convenience the roof is also separate, having an acorn at top, which forms a neat finish. These outside cases are made of wood, and drop lightly over all; when thus protected, and fixed on a pedestal, the hive may be placed in the open air in such position as fancy may dictate. The aspect should be south or south-east, and, if against a wall, sufficient space must be allowed for a free passage behind, as it is from thence all operations must be conducted by the apiarian. The case and roof, with the stand, being the only parts exposed to the weather, will be the only portions that require painting; they are sometimes stained and varnished, and we are inclined to prefer the latter for appearance. Should the apiarian have a complete bee-hive house, the cover, and stands will not be needed.

When removing or replacing the covers, care should be taken to do so very gently, or the bees will be enraged, and rush out, and may inflict stings upon those within their reach. We have obviated the necessity for lifting off the cover for the purpose of looking in, either at the window of the stock-hive or of the super, by making a door, both in the upper and lower parts of the outside case. These doors, or unglazed windows, are hinged at the bottom, so as to open downwards, rendering inspection easy, without disturbance to the bees.

A wooden range for supporting a number of hives makes a safe and economical stand; it may be formed by driving firmly into the ground two rows of posts, each row about twelve inches apart; to these two rails, about two inches square, are nailed, and upon these the hives firmly rest. Care should be taken not to have the hives nearer together than eighteen inches; the intermediate space will be found very convenient on which to rest the cover, or for supporting an empty hive during the proper performance of any operation.

Mr. Woodbury has his hives arranged on rails, somewhat after the plan before described.

In describing, as above, the various hives and frames, some hints have been given as to the methods of handling them. This, however, will not suffice for an induction to the mysteries of practical bee-keeping, and we must refer the reader to a subsequent section, wherein the details as to manipulation will be fully explained, and the results of the experience of several distinguished apiarians will be embodied.

TAYLOR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.

This hive is similar in principle to the cottager's. It is also similar in size, with the exception of being quite straight at the sides. A zinc rim affords protection from the weather. Under the upper straw hive a bell-glass is worked. A mahogany adapting board, with a four-inch hole in the centre, corresponding with that of the hive, supplies an even surface for the glass to rest on, and facilitates its removal when full. For particulars as to stocking and management, see directions for cottager's and improved cottage hives, pages [72] and [83].

EIGHT-BAR STRAW HIVE.

This is an ingenious contrivance of Mr. Taylor's. Hoops are worked in the straw, both at the top and bottom of the stock-hive, and in the upper hoop are openings cut to receive eight comb bars; each bar is one inch and an eighth wide, with a space of half an inch between. Since the introduction of square straw bar and frame hives, these hives have not been much in request. Considerable inconvenience is found to arise, because the bars, being of unequal lengths, cannot be interchanged one with the other.

The description given of Taylor's Amateur Hive, and mode of stocking and furnishing it with guide-comb, apply to this hive. The large straw hive raised up in the engraving is an outside case; the roof is a large zinc cover. If placed in a bee-house, the outside case and zinc roof are not required.

NEIGHBOUR'S UNICOMB OBSERVATORY HIVE.

This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of having the opportunity of closely examining the workmanship of the industrious and interesting inmates. It is particularly intended for a window recess or an indoor apiary, and will also be found an interesting addition to the green-house. Bees cease to appear disturbed when exposure to the light is continuous. This discovery enables the bee-keeper to gain a full inspection. The hive should be screened from the direct rays of the sun, which would worry the inmates, and be otherwise prejudicial. An aperture should be cut in the sash corresponding with the entrance to the hive, through which the bees may find egress and ingress, without being able to gain access to the apartment, as described for the ladies' observatory hive ([page 78]).

The unicomb hive is constructed of so narrow a width between thin plates of glass that it admits of one comb only to be built, and, at the same time, leaves space between the comb and the glass on either side for the bees to pass and repass. It is thus made so that every bee may be exposed to view. The queen forming the most prominent feature of attention, she is readily distinguished by the greater length of her body, as well as by the attention paid her by the other bees.

The mode of stocking this hive is as follows:—Procure a strong swarm, if practicable, and let it be first hived into a common straw hive in the usual way. Take care to make the necessary preparations previous to the operation of stocking: for this purpose, at evening time, place the hive on its side, oil the ground (having already spread a sheet, or large white cloth, underneath); unfasten the side of the hive which is hinged, turn this sash quite back, very gently lift the straw hive containing the swarm; then, with a sudden shake, dash as large a portion of the bees into the unicomb hive as can be done in a few seconds. Have ready a feather or, better still (because firmer), a goose-wing; with this, quickly brush the bees off the edges of the frames, also from the rabbets against which the glass side closes, in order to prevent killing any; then gently spread them, so that the glass, when closed, shall not shut against the congregated mass in the middle. When thus ready for closing up, which should be quickly done, fasten the side, and turn the hive right end upwards, with the entrance towards those bees that are outside. The bees will not, probably, have all been ejected from the straw hive at the first brush, and will require a few sharp raps on the cloth to clear the hive. The moving mass now congregating without, upon discovering that so large a portion of their companions have found a home, with (as is generally the case) the queen safely housed, will hasten to join them. It is a pretty sight to see the labourers crowding in like a little army, with their heads pointing in the same direction, making for the desired home, which they will slowly but surely enter, with fanning wings and a happy hum.

Considerable help may be afforded by gently collecting the stragglers in a table-spoon, and shaking them off close to the entrance.

In about an hour, all the bees will have entered the hive, which may now be bodily taken to the place previously made ready for it, and which it is intended permanently to occupy,—a shelf, the size of the bottom of the hive, with a sloping piece of wood four inches wide, forms a firm bracket and a substantial stand,—these and all other preparations, such as cutting the opening, fixing the alighting-board, &c., having been previously accomplished when the hive was empty.

It will be as well to screen the hive from view for a few days, until the bees become settled in their new domicile. Although this hive is constructed of double glass, to keep up a more uniform degree of warmth, still, from the cold nature of glass, and the close contact into which the bees are brought with it, it is advisable to place flannel between the outer shutters and the glass of the hive, on both sides. Such precaution is found essential if the bees remain in this hive during whiter, and very much adds to their comfort on cold nights at most periods of the year. In the day time, in summer months, the hive being of double glass, the whole may be fully exposed to view. If the temperature of the apartment in which the hive stands be kept at 60 degrees, this extra attention will not be so needful. As soon as the bees are settled, comb-building will immediately commence, and in about two weeks' time there will be comb spreading over the whole hive. The queen may be viewed depositing her eggs, and all the usual operations of the rearing of brood, storing of honey, and the building of combs, will be open to full inspection, with perfect ease to the spectator. As an object of lively and permanent interest for the breakfast-parlour or conservatory, the unicomb observatory hive may be regarded as infinitely superior to an aquarium or fernery.

At the Exposition Universelle of 1855, in Paris, we exhibited a hive of this description in full working; order. The bees left London on the 5th of July of that year, and were placed in the Exposition on the following morning. An entrance was made for them through the side of the building, as before explained. Our bees had no national antipathies, and they immediately sallied forth to their "fresh fields and pastures new" in the Champs Elysees, the gardens of the Tuileries, the Luxembourg, &c., whence they soon returned laden with luscious store from French flowers.

The Jurors of the Exposition awarded us a prize medal for bee-hives.

WOODBURY UNICOMB HIVE.

The Woodbury Unicomb Hive has many advantages over similar hives as previously constructed. The engraving shows the interior compartment divided into six; these are sis Woodbury frames. The inner sash opens, to admit of hanging up the frames on the notches prepared for them. The width of the hive between the glasses of the sashes is just sufficient to admit of one thickness of comb, with space on each side for the bees to pass and repass, the same as in Neighbour's unicomb. There is, however, a great advantage in the use of this hive; with it, anyone possessing a Woodbury box or straw bar and frame hive can readily commence an unicomb, and as readily put the combs and bees back into the square hive again. The outside shutters on each side are composed of Venetian blinds, admitting daylight, but obscuring the rays of the sun. We had the entrance made at one end, as represented in our drawing; this alteration was made after the pattern of the hive from which Mr. Woodbury allowed us to copy. His own was intended to stand wholly out of doors, and had two central entrances, one on each side at the bottom, the hive itself turning on a pivot.

When the hive was being examined on one side, the entrance was closed by a piece of wood inserted in it; and when the other side was brought round to be inspected, the piece of wood was withdrawn, and placed in the opposite entrance. This was a most ingenious contrivance; but it did not answer our purpose for indoors. When Mr. Woodbury sent us his hive, we were preparing for the International Exhibition of 1862, and, in placing it against the sides of the building, we followed our old plan for ingress by having the entrance at the end. Since that time, we have made a considerable improvement by adapting Mr. Woodbury's cleverly contrived turn-table to suit our own hive. Like Mr. Woodbury's hive, ours has two iron wheels, the one fixed to the bottom of the hive, the other fixed to a stout board running the full length of the hive; on these two wheels the whole hive turns. In the centre there is an opening into the hive, with a passage-way running underneath, so that the bees' entrance is in no way affected by the position of the hive, which revolves, to suit the convenience of visitors inspecting it. Should the queen, with her attendants, not be visible on one side, the other side of the comb can be brought into full view, and examined with the same facility as a picture, or as articles are inspected in a shop window. Thus, in the unicomb observatory hive, the sovereign mother, her train of servitors, the drones, with their aimless movements, and the crowd of ever-busy workers—either building their combs or storing honey—may be always seen, as presenting a veritable tableau vivant.

Another improvement that we have made upon Mr. Woodbury's pattern is, that of accommodating the frames; his was constructed before frame-hives were in use, consequently it is only suitable for combs on bars. Our adaptation has necessitated an increase in size. The outside dimensions are nearly three feet square, and seven inches deep from back to front. Provision is made at top for feeding, and for working two small flat-top glasses for deprivation, which are protected by the weather-board.

An alighting-board is placed at the centre, close under the entrance, when the hive is located out-of-doors. When the hive is placed indoors, a passage-way, about eighteen inches long, covered with glass, is fixed to the entrance, the other end communicating with an opening in the wall or sash; through this the bees find access, an alighting-board being fixed outside the building. It is requisite that the passage-way be about this length, in order to allow the hive to turn round clear of the side of the building.

In the summer of 1863, we had ample proof of the success of this hive during its exhibition at the annual show of the Bath and West of England Agricultural Society at Exeter.[11] We selected six combs, and packed them in one of the square box Woodbury bar and frame hives, and, on arrival at Exeter, Mr. Woodbury assisted us in taking out the frames and placing them in the unicomb. That being fixed against the boarded side of a shed, we found the covered way a great convenience, and it answered remarkably well; the bees did not seem to be inconvenienced by having to travel through so long a passage. A glass covering admitted a full view of the little labourers as they crowded in, and the sight of them very much enhanced the interest of visitors examining the hive.

[11] It may require explanation how it was that we took bees to Exeter, which sounds something like "carrying coals to Newcastle." The reason was this—the garden of our friend, Mr. Woodbury, at Mount Radford, from which we could have been supplied, was so near to the show yard, that he was apprehensive a large number of the bees would return to their old hives. Our bees from a distance would, according to their nature, return to their own hive, for bees, although they may be moved miles away, take care to mark their new position, and are careful to return to it. Mr. Woodbury lent us a small stock of his Ligurian bees, and between it and our own hive the crowd of visitors divided their attention.

Since the time before mentioned, we have exhibited bees at the meetings of the Bath and West of England Agricultural Society at Bristol, and of the Royal Agricultural Society at Newcastle, in 1864. On both occasions, further proof was given that this hive admirably answers the purpose intended, and it afforded pleasure and interest to many thousands of visitors.

The unicomb hive may be stocked in two ways, which have been previously referred to. The bee-keeper may either select the comb upon which the queen is found, and put it into the hive, and so form an artificial swarm, or he may take six brood-combs from a hive, and so stock the unicomb at once, which we did for the show at Exeter.

The former plan is, perhaps, the most advisable, because new comb has to be built within the five frames; for, be it remembered, in this case five empty frames must be put in. It is 9, better plan still, if artificial combs are placed in each frame, so as to afford an interesting opportunity of watching the formation of the cells therein. The combs are sure to be dark in colour when taken from a stock-hive, and new combs, being whiter, have a better appearance in the hive. The comb upon which the queen was introduced may be taken away after the artificial swarm has made combs within some of the other five frames; when the queen is on one of the new combs, opportunity may easily be taken for opening the hive and removing the old dark comb. The bees can easily be shaken or brushed off the comb, and will return to the hive. The comb, with the unhatched brood, may be deposited in any square hive that needs strengthening. We mention this, to show how to obtain a hive with entirely fine white comb.

If the possessor of a square Woodbury frame-hive wishes to start a strong unicomb hive, and does not object to appropriate the stock, he must take out of the Woodbury hive any six combs on the frames, and put the unicomb in its place so as to receive all the returning bees that happen to be abroad; the remaining four combs, supposing there are ten, can be inserted in any other frame-hives in the garden in which there may be vacancies.

We have had this hive in operation, in the manner last described, during the summer of 1863, and found it to answer remarkably well. On a lawn, placed on a suitable ornamental stand, it formed a pleasing object, besides affording great interest and instruction.

In unicomb hives stocked with a natural swarm (as is generally the plan), there is considerable difficulty in keeping the bees alive through the winter. In a hive where the combs are removable, no loss of bees need be occasioned. We do not recommend the hive we are now describing as a winter residence for bees. For four months in the year, when bees are most active, and when their operations are most interesting, this hive may be brought into use, either of the two plans before described being adopted. An artificial swarm should be put in during May or June, and taken out, in the method before mentioned, and then placed in the square box during the month of September; sometimes it may do for a stock to be put in a month or so earlier, but it should never be retained later in this hive. In October, we often have cold nights; the bees and brood being in such close contact with the glass, and not able to cluster as is their natural wont, suffer from exposure to the variations of temperature. In some degree to moderate this, we have used treble glass with a space between each square; greater warmth is thus obtained, and the view is not intercepted. Opportunity should be taken for cleaning the unicomb hive when empty, so as to be ready for re-stocking as a new hive in the following summer. The unicomb observatory hive is one which might have been suggested by the lines of Evans:—

"By this blest art our ravished eyes behold

The singing masons build their roofs of gold,

And mingling multitudes perplex the view,

Yet all in order apt their tasks pursue;

Still happier they whose favoured ken hath seen

Pace slow and silent round, the state's fair queen."

THE STEWARTON, OR AYRSHIRE HIVE.

The Stewarton Hive is so often spoken of, and in such favourable terms, by bee-keepers, that we deem it necessary to give it a place here, and to supply some explanation of its construction and management. We consider this especially needful, as some of the principles of its management are so imperfectly understood, that frequent mistakes are made, and also because, for the convenience of bee-keepers, we keep a supply of these hives on hand.

The name is derived from their having been first manufactured at Stewarton, in Scotland; and they are still made so well, and at so moderate a price in that country, that London workmen are unable to compete in their manufacture. Our supply is therefore from that source; so that, with a little addition for carriage, the price approximates that of the makers themselves, affording a convenience to many of our apiarian friends in being able to obtain these hives in London.

Our engraving shows the four boxes set up. These constitute the hive. We will suppose that the young bee-keeper has just received the four octagonal boxes, with the bundles of grooved slides (of which there are nearly forty); about one half of these slides are short pieces, similarly cut to the longer ones. These are to fill up the openings where the slides are not put in, or are required to be withdrawn, as hereafter explained. He will find himself in possession of four boxes so neatly dove-tailed on the bevel, that, if he be of a mechanical turn, he will not only be surprised at the way in which they are put together, but also at the price for which they are offered. Three of the boxes, A, B, C, technically called "body boxes," are precisely similar, each being fourteen inches in diameter and five and a half inches deep inside. Nine bars range along the top of each box. These are not movable, but are so constructed to induce the correct and regular building of the combs. The fourth box, D, is the depriving box or super, is only four inches deep, and the same in diameter as the others. This being the honey-box, it is furnished with seven wide fixed bars, instead of nine, because, as stated at [page 93], bees construct deeper receptacles to contain the honey than for breeding in: thus, should the queen go up into this compartment, she may find the cells are too much elongated to enable her to reach the base, when her body is inserted for the purpose of depositing an egg. We have too much confidence in her majesty's sagacity to expect her to make such an attempt in honey-cells thus elongated; doubtless she will only look and pass on, seeking more suitable depositories, and confine her nursery to those lower regions where she is welcome. The honey is thus kept pure, and that which not unfrequently mars the qualify of a super—viz., cells that either contain brood or have been bred in—is prevented. Each box is furnished with two small windows, back and front, closed by sliding shutters, by which opportunity is afforded for inspecting the progress made, and also of knowing when the time has arrived that the cells are filled and the box may be taken away.

Each of the boxes, A, B, C, is furnished with an entrance-way, four inches wide, half an inch high, a wooden slide either wholly or partially closing same, as required. When at work, the bees only need one entrance open, and that at the lowest box. The long slides before mentioned are pushed in to their respective receptacles from the back of the hive, to close the openings between the bars; those of them that are shorter will be seen to belong to the sides of the octagon, and the ends are cut angular to suit the form of the box. A little examination will suffice to show the right allotment of the slides, the appropriation of which may be said somewhat to resemble the putting together of a child's puzzle.

The box B must be left open at the interstices that correspond with the box A, placed above, the little openings being closed by the insertion of the ten sections of slides, thus leaving free communication inside with the upper box A, and admitting of no outlet for the bees, except at the entrance.

When the four boxes are placed above each other, the structure measures twenty-two inches high.

The Scotch carpenters send no floor-board, and no covering or roof for the top to shoot off the rain; they evidently expect that the purchaser is provided with a shed or bee-house of some kind, and also with a floor-board. Should the apiarian, however, not have these necessaries, we can supply the deficiency.

The sides of the boxes are furnished with wooden buttons, which, when turned round, keep each box exactly in its place above the other: there are also projecting irons or screw heads for tying the two boxes A and B together, preparatory to hiving the swarm; or if the boxes stand out exposed, all may be thus secured, to prevent their being blown over by high winds.

Directions for Management.

Take the two boxes A and B, made one by the junction before mentioned, and similarly inside by the free communication afforded. Shake the swarm in as described at [page 28], just as with a common cottage hive.

If the weather be favourable, these two boxes will be nearly filled in ten days. To get the full advantage of the Stewarton hive the first year, put two swarms into two body boxes, A and B; if the two are too small, then add the other box C. Allow the bees to remain there till they have nearly filled the body boxes with comb, which (with this increased number of workers, and in favourable weather) should be from five to ten days. Two swarms are seldom procurable the same day, so as then to be joined together, and even if they were, there is a doubt whether greater progress may not be attained by hiving a swarm a week or so earlier than the other, so as to build comb and raise brood ready for the reception of the new comers.

The second swarm is added best in the evening, after the bees have ceased working. For this purpose spread a sheet on the ground, place two sticks so as to prevent the box being close to the ground, then, with a sudden knock, eject the bees of the second swarm on to the cloth, and place the two body boxes that contain the earlier swarm over the dislodged bees; these will, in the course of an hour or so, ascend and become one family, and one of the queens will be speedily destroyed.

In the meantime, prepare the shallow honey-box D, by fixing small pieces of worker guide-comb, of pure white colour, on the centre of each side bar. If, however, a box of honey with neatly made, straight, and quite regular comb be desired, a piece of this guide-comb must be fixed to the centre of each bar. If guide-comb be unobtainable, strips of the impressed wax sheets or artificial comb (hereafter described) will be found excellent substitutes.[12]

[12] The body boxes may be prepared in a similar manner.

When selecting guide-comb, avoid combs with drone-cells; to fix these is setting the bees a bad pattern. Honey stored in drone-combs has more wax, and is coarser in appearance and taste. Having satisfied yourself, by peeping in at the windows, and from symptoms at the entrance, that the original boxes are well filled, place your prepared honey-box on the top, draw a slide at each side of the middle box to afford communication, and insert the little plugs. It is not so well to withdraw the middle slides, because the queen is more likely to ascend from the centre. When you notice that the bees have fairly commenced work in the honey-box and are likely to keep to it, the remaining box C may be added below the stock, which will afford additional room and prevent swarming, exchanging the entrance to the newly-furnished box and sliding in pieces wood to close the aperture of that above.

Should the bees begin making comb in the bottom box, draw two more slides for freer access into the super, as there will then be little risk of the queen ascending, having so much range for egg-laying in the three lower boxes.

In very fine weather, a good swarm or stock will fill a honey-box in the space of two weeks; but a much longer time is usually occupied.

The more quickly the box is filled, the purer will be the colour of the comb and honey, because bees very much discolour their work when they have it long on hand. Before taking off the honey-box, observe particularly that the combs are well sealed at the windows, because, as mentioned at [page 83], this portion of the work is always left till the last.

When you see that all is ready for the removal of a box, select the middle of a fine day for the purpose (not omitting to don the bee-armour). Draw out one or two of the slides, and give the bees a few gentle puffs, either of fungus or of tobacco smoke, from the tube fumigator, which will cause the majority of the bees to descend into the body of the hive; then stop the communication, by pushing in the slides. Next, with a spatula, make a slight opening for a piece of strong thin twine at the front of the box, and immediately behind the thread two thin wedges; with the two ends in hand, work the twine gently forward, bringing the wedges, after, until the opposite side is reached. This will remove any obstruction caused by the bees having attached their combs to the top of the next box, and thus leave the super entirely free for removal. It will be as well, for the reasons stated at [page 58], not to remove the box immediately. After waiting an hour, the box may be taken off, and conveyed to a quiet place. Should any bees remain, they will be glad, after their confinement, to escape to the parent hive; or if you have an empty hive to put over, by gently drumming the sides, the remaining bees will ascend and leave the box at your disposal. The bees driven into the empty box may now be shaken out in front of the mouth of the hive. Another plan is to cut off the communication over night, and raise the hive on wedges, as recommended to be adopted with the super ([page 73]).

Before winter sets in, the box C may be removed and the comb it contains (if well filled) be used for consumption: if the comb be empty, let it remain carefully preserved from moth and insects; it will be invaluable next season. Empty comb may be thus preserved by tying or pasting a piece of stout newspaper closely round the bottom, and keeping the box in a dry place.

Feeding, when required, may be liberally pursued, by withdrawing two slides and supplying a bottle-feeder. Enough food should be given in the early autumn to last until spring.

The chief value of the Stewarton hive consists in the boxes being shallow, so that the combs are more likely to be well filled down to the base. This is a great advantage with supers, particularly when required to be sent to a distance, as there is less likelihood of the combs breaking down. A fine super of honey, that would be valuable, is materially depreciated when it reaches its destination in a damaged state, with the honey running from the cells. For the same reason, when the weather is hot and the rays of the sun fall on the hive, the combs might part from their foundations if there were no intermediate bars, which is now the case in the stock-hive, composed as it is of two boxes. If these two boxes were in one, the depth of each comb would be twelve inches; and when filled with brood and honey, would probably weigh 10 lbs. This is a great weight to be supported in hot summer weather, when the wax is softened by the heat. Another distinguishing feature that the Stewarton hive possesses is the use of the box C, which, by giving increased room, as the season advances, prevents what is often an annoyance to the apiarian, viz., a late swarm—too late to be of any value, and impoverishing the stock by a division of its numbers, thereby perhaps impeding the completion of the super. A further advantage of the box c, is that it induces the bees (who frequently hang in dusters about the entrance) to carry on their labours instead of remaining in enforced idleness.

We often receive from Scotland magnificent boxes of honey; the fine quality is no doubt to be attributed to good pasturage, and to the fact of keeping the stocks strong (see [page 19]), by adopting the means before hinted at; and thus having hives well stored and well populated early in the season, so that they may betimes take full advantage of supplies of nectar in the flowers. Early honey is generally the best in colour.

The old proverb runs:—"It is the early bird that finds the worm." The hive that is strong is certain to produce the most honey. To make this plain, we will suppose that a bee-keeper has a weakly hive; it will take some weeks, if not months, to grow populous; and as soon as the strength of the hive has recovered, the honey season will have advanced, if not ended, whilst the strong stocks have been able to take full advantage of the supplies, having an abundance of labourers to collect the honey and store it in supers for their master. To induce the bees to build quickly, cover up the super with as much warm woollen covering as you can, as recommended for glasses, [page 65].

In fine seasons, and under good management, extra supers and body boxes (the latter to be used as "nadirs") maybe required to place above and below the supers and nadirs partly filled, in order to reap the full benefit of the honey season; for with strong colonies one box after another may be inserted, till the whole towers from six to ten boxes high. This plan is, indeed, collecting honey while the sun shines, but requires a greater amount of apiarian skill and good pasturage to carry on in its entirety than is generally possessed. In other words, we in the south may find it difficult to rival our accomplished brother-apiarians north of the Tweed, for they do wonders with the Stewarton hive.

HUBER'S HIVE.

To Francis Huber—not improperly styled the "Prince of Apiarians"—we are indebted for more extensive and accurate observations on the habits of the bee than have been contributed by all other observers since the time of Aristotle.

During the early period of Huber's investigations, he prosecuted them by means of single-comb hives, which allow of each side of the comb being examined. He found, however, that there was one important defect. The bees could not in these hives cluster together, which is their natural method of withstanding the effects of a reduced temperature. Huber hit upon the ingenious expedient of combining a number of single-comb frames, so as to form one complete hive, which could be opened, in order to expose any particular comb, without disturbing the rest. From the manner of the opening and closing of this hive, it has generally been called the "Leaf or Book Hive." The division separating each comb is joined both back and front with "butt hinges," fastened with a movable pin, on withdrawing which, at either side, each comb and the bees on it may be inspected as easily as if in a single-comb hive. Huber's leaf hive is thus in appearance, as if several ordinary "History of England" backgammon chess-boards were set up on end together. The floor-board on which the hive stands is larger than the hive when closed, so as to allow of its being opened freely at any particular "volume." An entrance-way for the bees is hollowed-out of the floor-board as in other hives. There is a glass window in each end of the hive, which is provided with a shutter.

There is, however, one serious objection to Huber's hive, which, though not noticed by him or his careful assistant, has prevented its general use—that is, the difficulty there is in closing it without crushing some of the bees—a catastrophe which, by exasperating their comrades, is certain to interfere with any experiments. There is no such risk in the bar and frame hive, whilst in it every facility possessed by Huber's is retained; so that we strongly recommend scientific apiarians to use some kind of bar and frame hive in preference to Huber's. We have here introduced a description of Huber's leaf hive (and should be glad to exhibit one) for the sake of its historic interest, in connection with apiarian science. The invention was invaluable for Huber himself, and it suggested to other apiarians the adoption of the present plan of vertical bars and frames.

The character of Huber and the circumstances under which he pursued his observations are so remarkable, that we need scarcely apologize for stating a few particulars respecting him here. He was born at Geneva, in July, 1750, his family being in honourable station and noted for talent. Just as he attained to manhood he lost his sight, and remained blind to the end of his days. This apparently insuperable obstacle in the way of scientific observation was overcome by the remarkable fidelity with which Burnens, his assistant, watched the bees and reported their movements to Huber. Madame Huber also, who, betrothed to him before his calamity, had remained constant in her affection, assisted in the investigations with great assiduity during their long and happy wedded life. We quote the following from "Memoirs of Huber," by Professor de Candolle:—

"We have seen the blind shine as poets, and distinguish themselves as philosophers, musicians, and calculators; but it was reserved for Huber to give a lustre to his class in the sciences of observation, and on objects so minute that the most clear-sighted observer can scarcely perceive them. The reading of the works of Reaumur and Bonnet, and the conversation of the latter, directed his curiosity to the history of the bees. His habitual residence in the country inspired him with the desire, first of verifying some facts, then of filling some blanks in their history; but this kind of observation required not only the use of such an instrument as the optician must furnish, but an intelligent assistant, who alone could adjust it to its use. He had then a servant named Francis Burnens, remarkable for his sagacity and for the devotion he bore his master. Huber practised him in the art of observation, directed him to his researches by questions adroitly combined, and, aided by the recollections of his youth and by the testimonies of his wife and friends, he rectified the assertions of his assistant, and became enabled to form in his own mind a true and perfect image of the manifest facts. 'I am much more certain,' said he, smiling, to a scientific friend, 'of what I state than you are, for you publish what your own eyes only have seen, while I take the mean among many witnesses.' This is, doubtless, very plausible reasoning, but very few persons will by it be rendered distrustful of their own eyesight."

The results of Huber's observations were published in 1792, in the form of letters to Ch. Bonnet, under the title of "Nouvelles Observations sur les Abeilles." This work made a strong impression upon many naturalists, not only because of the novelty of the facts stated and the excellent inductive reasoning employed, but also on account of the rigorous accuracy of the observations recorded, when it was considered with what an extraordinary difficulty the author had to struggle.

Huber retained the clear faculties of his observant mind until his death, which took place on the 22nd of December, 1831. Most of the facts relating to the impregnation of the queen, the formation of cells, and the whole economy of the bee-community, as discovered and described by Huber, have received full confirmation from the investigations of succeeding naturalists.