THE WEST COAST
CHAPTER XIV
ECUADOR: AREA, HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, POPULATION, ETC.
South of Colombia, fortunate in its Atlantic and Pacific Coast lines, are three exclusively Pacific countries, unless we count a rearward communication, so to speak, with the Atlantic by the Amazon for the first two, or note that the coast line of the third runs at the south quite to that ocean. Ecuador, Peru, and Chile, in the order named, now occupy the remaining Pacific coast line for the several thousand miles from Colombia to the Horn. In the group of West Coast States, however, Bolivia may be counted, for though nearly forty years ago she lost her small strip of coast line, her communication with the outside world is chiefly by way of the Pacific, and with these Republics she has characteristics in common.
Area, Population, Boundary
Area. First of the West Coast countries from the north, Ecuador has an uncertain area on account of boundary disputes. That with Colombia is lately settled, but not the one with Peru. With approximately 116,000 square miles now in her possession, she is usually ranked as next to the smallest South American Republic, Uruguay. The country extends from about 2° North Lat. to 6° South.
Population. As no official census of Ecuador has ever been taken, the population is variously stated. A liberal estimate places the figures at 2,000,000.
Boundary. Ecuador’s boundary is uncertain as to the matter of touching Brazil. However, she has Colombia on the north and northeast, Peru on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west; most maps give Peru a section on the southeast as well, shutting Ecuador off from Brazil.
History
From the remote past, Ecuador has been inhabited by many tribes of Indians; one of these held sway at Quito for a thousand years before their subjugation by the Peruvian Incas. Less than a century later Pizarro arrived with the Spaniards. Hardly had these conquered Peru, when in 1534, the year following the overthrow of Atahuallpa, Pizarro dispatched Diego de Almagro and Sebastian de Benalcazar for the conquest of Ecuador, after which a few settlements were made. In 1538, Gonzalo Pizarro, brother of the conqueror, became Governor. In 1540, with Francisco de Orellana and a large expedition, he went east, descending through the forests to the Napo River. There a boat was built in which Orellana with others sailed down to the Amazon, then on to the Atlantic Ocean, thus first exploring the greatest river on the globe to which he gave its present name.
For almost three centuries Ecuador was ruled by Spain, most of the time under the authority of the Viceroy at Lima, until in 1822 occurred the decisive battle of Pichincha, which assured the independence of Ecuador. Soon after, the country joined New Granada and Venezuela in the Colombian Federation, but in 1830 set up for itself a separate republic. Many difficulties, insurrections, and revolutions have occurred quite up to the present time, 11 changes of the constitution since 1830; but settled conditions favorable to the country’s development are now hoped for.
Government
Ecuador is a centralized rather than a federal republic, with the usual three departments. The President, elected for four years by direct vote, is ineligible for the consecutive term. Congress consists of a Senate with 32 members and a Chamber of Deputies with 48. Suffrage is limited to males over 21 years of age, who can read and write. The Judiciary consists of a Supreme Court at Quito, and six others in as many large towns, municipal and civil courts, and justices of the peace. The Provinces are administered by Governors named by the Executive, the Departments or Cantons by jefes politicos, political chiefs, the Parishes by political lieutenants, and the municipalities by presidents.
The Republic, the capital of which is Quito, has 15 Provinces and two Territories. Of the former, five are along the coast, and ten are inland occupying the mountainous section. The coastal Provinces from the north are Esmeraldas, Manabí, Guayas, and El Oro. Los Rios, although not touching the coast, may be counted with them, as occupying a part of the lowlands, it shares most of their characteristics. The mountain Provinces, beginning at the north are Carchi, Imbabura, Pichincha, León, Tungurahua, Chimborazo, Bolívar, Cañar, Azuay, Loja. Of the two Territories, Oriente is of course the section at the east, which belongs to the Amazon Basin, the other is the Galápagos Islands, nearly 600 miles from the main land.
These divisions, with approximate area and population, their capitals with population and altitude follow:
Population
The population of Ecuador, approximately 2,000,000, as in all of these tropical countries is in three principal classes: the whites, the pure Indians, and the mestizos, those of mixed blood, here Spanish and Indian. There are also some negroes, mulattoes, and zambos, the last of negro and Indian blood. Those who in these tropical countries are called white in most cases no doubt have a slight Indian strain, as few women were among the earliest settlers; but no prejudice exists on this account. Even when the Indian strain is apparent, having money and education they enjoy the same social standing and occupy the highest positions. Those of pure Spanish blood in most of the countries must be few. The whites with some of the mestizos form a cultured class with the manners and customs for the most part of such society anywhere. The sons of wealthy families are often educated abroad and many have traveled in Europe. Paris fashions in dress are followed and continental customs generally. Courtesy is a marked characteristic, possibly carried to excess.
| Provinces | Area, in square miles | Population | Capitals | Population | Altitude, in feet |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Esmeraldas | 5,465 | 20,000 | Esmeraldas | 6,000 | [5] |
| Manabí | 7,892 | 100,000 | Portoviejo | 8,000 | [5] |
| Guayas | 8,330 | 120,000 | Guayaquil | 94,000 | [5] |
| Los Rios | 2,296 | 32,800 | Babahoya | 7,000 | [5] |
| El Oro | 2,340 | 35,000 | Machala | 6,000 | [5] |
| Carchi | 1,495 | 36,000 | Tulcán | 8,000 | 9,765 |
| Imbabura | 2,415 | 70,000 | Ibarra | 10,000 | 7,298 |
| Pichincha | 6,217 | 200,000 | Quito | 100,000 | 9,348 |
| León | 2,595 | 110,000 | Latacunga | 15,000 | 9,187 |
| Tungurahua | 1,686 | 107,000 | Ambato | 14,000 | 8,554 |
| Chimborazo | 2,989 | 125,000 | Riobamba | 20,000 | 9,177 |
| Bolívar | 1,160 | 45,000 | Guaranda | 8,000 | 8,751 |
| Cañar | 1,520 | 74,000 | Azogues | 10,000 | 8,321 |
| Azuay | 3,874 | 150,000 | Cuenca | 40,000 | 8,465 |
| Loja | 3,706 | 100,000 | Loja | 15,000 | 7,281 |
| Territories | |||||
| El Oriente | 80,000 | 200,000 | Archidona | 1,000 | unknown |
| Galápagos | 2,868 | 1,000 | |||
[5] These capitals are at or near sea level.
The bulk of the population is frankly mestizo and Indian. The mestizos may be more than one half of the population, the Indians perhaps one quarter. The Indian population may be regarded as in three principal classes of widely different character: those of the coast, of the highlands, and of the Amazon Basin. The Indians of the coast region were of various tribes speaking different languages. Superficially christianized, most of them have become more or less amalgamated with the whites or with negroes, but in the forests of Esmeraldas where the Indians, living under similar conditions, closely resemble those of the Napo district, the Cayapas retain their language and customs, continuing to live apart from and to avoid the whites. If not molested they are hospitable and affable with strangers.
The Indians on the uplands are similar to those on the Peruvian Plateau, timid and distrustful of foreigners, including the native whites. They constitute the greater part of the laboring class and while not slaves in name they are forced to work for a pittance, and they live as a rule in extreme poverty and ignorance. Laws for their protection are generally ignored, and throughout the entire Andine region they are undoubtedly in a far lower condition than when the Spaniards invaded the country. The mestizos, instead of sympathizing with them, generally treat them worse than do the whites, some of whom recognize the abuses to which the Indians are subject and desire to improve their condition. The Indians are strong and vigorous, especially as to carrying heavy burdens for great distances. Like many other persons they have an unfortunate weakness for alcohol. The men wear short loose trousers or drawers of linen or cotton, a shirt, and most important, a woolen poncho. They go much with bare feet, but usually have sandals made of maguey fibre or rawhide. The women wear a skirt, a cloth covering the body, and a manta or shawl in which the baby (there usually is one) or some other object is carried. With a little education, kind, just treatment, and decent wages, these people would be converted into a working class of far greater value than at present, highly serviceable for the development and progress of the various countries.
Totally dissimilar are the Indians of the Amazonian forest, of whom there are 46 tribes north of the Marañón, though the differences among them are ascribed to environment, rather than to diversity of race. These wear no clothing or a loin cloth. Many are fairly light colored and in general they are well formed. Their weapons are bows and arrows, and the blowpipe used also by the Cayapas. Some of the tribes are especially savage, as the Jíbaros and the Huambisa Indians. The former in early times destroyed the Spanish colonies on the Amazon affluents, while the latter in 1599 seized the Spanish women after sacking Sevilla de Oro. Both of these tribes have a considerable admixture of Spanish blood and are sometimes fair skinned. They have a reputation for treachery and cruelty, but it is said that their savage deeds are in retaliation for countless wrongs previously inflicted by white men, as in the case of recent atrocities.
The mestizos who live among the whites and intermarry with them class themselves with them whenever their economic position permits. Dwelling in remote regions and in villages among the Indians they tend to revert to the Indian type. Until they acquire wealth they form the artisan element, the traders, and the shopkeepers.
Education
Primary education is free and obligatory, but the number of schools is insufficient, and a large part of the people are indifferent. Eighty thousand pupils are in attendance, and 4500 more in the secondary schools. There are universities at Quito, Guayaquil, and Cuenca; six Schools of Arts and Trades, also Schools of Agriculture, and other institutions of a technical or professional character. The machinery of education is equal to that of its neighbors if not in advance, but too many professional men are found in all the countries.
Press, Religion, etc.
Press. Excellent newspapers exist, notably in Guayaquil and Quito, influencing civic progress.
Religion. In 1904 the Church was placed under the control of the State, and all religions were made equal before the law. The women are devoted to the Catholic Church, as in all the South American countries, but the educated men are largely materialists. Civil marriage and divorce were established in 1904.
Telegraph. There are several thousand telephones, mostly in Guayaquil, and about 6000 miles of telegraph wire. The rates are 10 cents for 10 words, and 5 cents for 10 words additional. Cable connection is made at Santa Elena on the Pacific, which has also a wireless station.
Money. A condor is a gold coin equal to an English pound, and to 10 sucres. A sucre is therefore 48.6 cents. The sucre equals 100 centavos. The sucres and some smaller coins are silver. The coinage of Peru is similar. It is easy to remember that a sucre or a Peruvian sol is about half a dollar, a centavo half a cent.
The Metric System is legal, but the old Spanish weights and measures, as in Colombia, are much used.
CHAPTER XV
ECUADOR: PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Ecuador, like Peru, has three longitudinal sections: the Coastal zone, the Inter Andine region, including the mountain ranges with the plateau or valleys between, and the Trans Andine, a part of the Amazon basin.
The Coastal Zone
The coastal zone in Ecuador is much wider than at the north or south. We have seen that in Colombia the mountain ranges are so close to the shore as to leave little space for cities or agriculture, while in Peru and Chile for the most part the mountains are visible from the sea. Further, a good portion of Ecuador’s coastal zone resembles in some respects the Amazon section, while in Peru the two are utterly different. Ecuador is the only country favored on the Pacific side with rivers navigable to any considerable extent, and the dense tropical vegetation of much of the coast is in striking contrast to the Peruvian deserts. Remembering that the equator crosses this country, it is easy to understand that where there is much rain the lowlands have a humid tropical climate. The coast curves slightly outward from the north to Capes San Lorenzo and Santa Elena, the latter lacking but a few miles of being the most western point of South America, which distinction falls to Peru. Near these capes the waters of the cold Antarctic current turn west towards the Galápagos Islands, the tropical waters above and the colder current below affecting the climate of the two sections. Just south of Cape Santa Elena begins the Gulf of Guayaquil, the only considerable arm of the sea indenting the West Coast between Panamá and the Island of Chiloé in Chile, a stretch of 3000 miles. Considering the gulf as the broad triangle between Capes Santa Elena, Ecuador, and Blanco in Peru, with the island, Puná, as inner limit, the width is 140 miles. The boundary line of Ecuador, a little north of the Tumbes River, leaves most of the Gulf line in that country. The Gulf penetrates east and slightly north about 100 miles to the Guayas River or estuary. Along the southern shore are occasional estuaries with small river openings and mangrove swamps.
The Mountain Section
The central mountainous region belongs of course to the great chain of the Andes. As in the countries previously studied, this section of Ecuador differs greatly from the lowlands. Happily the formation is simpler than in Colombia. Extending from a rather confused mass near the boundary of Peru to another jumble of peaks at the Colombian border, a distance of 300 miles, are two parallel ranges, the East and the West Cordillera, from 20 to 30 miles apart. The plateau region between, which is higher at the north, is separated by two lower transverse ridges called páramos into three shallow basins or plains: those of Quito, Ambato, and Cuenca; the first basin with an altitude of 9500 feet, the second, 8500 feet, the third, 7800 feet. Some of the water from these flows into the Pacific and some into the Atlantic. East and west are the two rows of mountains in a remarkably symmetrical arrangement, sometimes exactly opposite each other. Nowhere else in the world are there two such rows of giants or such a collection of snow crowned volcanoes. Of the 22 great peaks, several are active volcanoes and more are extinct. The main range or Cordillera Real is the eastern, with the larger number of lofty peaks; but the highest of all is in the West Cordillera, Chimborazo, altitude 20,498 feet. This mountain, first ascended by Edward Whymper, a celebrated English climber, in 1880, was formerly supposed by many to be the loftiest of the Andes; but farther south at least a dozen peaks are higher, probably two or three times as many.
The volcanic section, as we have seen, extends into Colombia; but not into Peru. Especially noteworthy are Cotopaxi of the East Cordillera, the highest active volcano in the world, 19,613 feet, and Pichincha, the only one historically eruptive in the West Cordillera. The latter, situated very near Quito, has been the source of highly destructive eruptions. Sangay, east of the Ambato Basin, the most southern and among the most active on the globe, does little harm as no settlements are near. The Cuenca Basin, with no erupting volcanoes, contains volcanic material. In the most southern province, Loja, no such signs appear, nor in Peru for some degrees south.
Oriente
The country of the Oriente, with no llanos, is similar to forested southeastern Colombia. The mountains slope down into the forests, which cover their lower eastern declivities and the plain beyond. This inclines toward the region of the Amazon, with slight undulations well away from the mountains; but the nearer sections are broken by lateral spurs from the main chain, or by low isolated ranges separating the basins of the larger Amazon affluents.
Rivers, Amazon Tributaries
North of the nudo or knot in the Loja province, spurs and ravines lead off from the high mountain range. Here swift flowing streams descend in a region called wild and savage. Those rising farthest north reach the Amazon at a more eastern point than the streams rising nearer, at the south; so the mention of the principal rivers of the eastern slope will begin with the most southern and western tributary. It may be remembered that the Amazon is formed by the union of the Marañón and the Ucayali Rivers, both flowing northwest in Peru, the former, the one nearer the Pacific coast. Above 6° S. Lat. the Marañón turns sharply east, flowing with northerly and southerly deviations, receiving in its course many tributaries before and after breaking through the East Cordillera of Peru at the Pongo de Manseriche. Here the waters of the previously broad river pass through an extraordinary chasm 3 miles long and 100 feet wide. The walls are not 2000 feet high as often stated; in one or two places they may rise 40 feet perpendicularly, but usually they are wooded slopes, rising in a single locality perhaps 2000 feet.[6] The principal rivers flowing from Ecuador into the Marañón or Amazon are the Chinchipe, Santiago, Morona, Pastaza, Tigre, Nanay, and Napo. These with the streams from Colombia drain the northwest part of the Amazon Basin and are capable of adding much to the economic value of the region. The few white settlements existing are as nothing in this vast wilderness.
[6] See Geographical Journal, October, 1920
The Chinchipe River rises in southern Loja and after receiving many tributaries flows into the Marañón a little below where that river runs northeast. The lower part of the Chinchipe is navigable.
The Santiago River rises near the town of Loja between the two Cordilleras. Several of its important tributaries rise in Loja, or in the Cuenca basin farther north. One of these, the Pauta, has a branch rising only 30 miles from the Gulf of Guayaquil, a source nearer the Pacific than that of any other river flowing into the Atlantic unless it be in the very south of Chile. The Santiago enters the Marañón a little above the rapids of the Pongo Manseriche. At the mouth of the stream was once a town, Santiago, which like Borja below the Pongo was destroyed by savages.
The Morona River. Two of the many tributaries of the Morona rise in the East Cordillera at heights above 13,000 and 14,000 feet north of the Apuay knot. At high water the Morona is navigable for 300 miles, at low water for 200, for steamers drawing from 2 to 4 feet, and also two of its tributaries; but due to the tortuous course of the river the 300 miles equals but 120 in a straight line. Earlier many flourishing missions existed in this section, but in the last century the Huambisa Indians inhabiting the upper reaches of the Santiago and the Morona almost exterminated the Indians who had been civilized. So recently as February, 1913, members of the same tribe massacred the soldiers of a Peruvian outpost. This, notwithstanding, was later re-established by Peru.
The Pastaza River, rising in the basin of Riobamba at a height of nearly 15,000 feet, flows through a little known district receiving many tributaries. The lower part is navigable for steamers at high water to the Huasaga branch, 120 miles, and 200 miles farther by canoe. This fluvial system drains the basins of Latacunga, Ambato, and Riobamba, the snows of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and other peaks contributing to its waters. A spot where the unified river at an altitude of about 6000 feet in one leap makes a splendid fall of 190 feet is said to be one of the most picturesque scenes in the Andes.
The River Tigre belongs to the region of the plains, though some of its affluents rise in the East Cordillera. Although in volume not to be compared to the Pastaza or the Napo it is quite as important, being navigable for steamers of 4 to 8 feet draught at high water for over 400 miles, and in low water for steamers drawing 2 to 4 feet; 100 miles more on the Corriente branch and 40 on the Pucasuro, with an additional 1260 miles by canoe on its various tributaries. The region traversed is rich in natural products and with over 100 tributaries the river deserves remembrance. It enters the Marañón 40 miles above the Ucayali.
The Nanay, a much smaller plains river with a slow current, yet with a high bank and a healthful climate, may be ascended for 105 miles and has some importance.
The Napo River, formerly part of the boundary line between Colombia and Ecuador but now given over to Ecuador, has sources among the Ecuadorian volcanoes, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and others. At first the descent is rapid. At the foot of the Cordillera 100 miles from the source, and but 1500 feet above the sea, canoe navigation begins at the village of Napo. Sixty miles below, the Coca River comes in. This section includes the Napo missions, a beautiful region long known and visited by botanists and geologists. Here ends the influence of the Roman Church and the land of the salvajes or infieles begins. It was down the Coca valley that Gonzales Pizarro and Orellana came in 1540. From this point the Napo runs in forested plains, receiving many more tributaries, the large Aguarico, and the Curaray. The Napo is called navigable in high water for steamers from the Amazon about 200 miles up to the Curaray, some say to the Aguarico, 560 miles, and little less at low water. At one point the Napo is but 50 or 60 miles from the Putumayo, with which communication by canoe is possible, and often made. The route from the Putumayo to Iquitos by way of the Napo is much shorter for the rubber gatherers, as the Napo flows into the Amazon not far below that city, while the Putumayo enters it several hundred miles farther down.
Rivers of the Coast
The Rivers of the Coast are with one exception of comparatively slight importance.
The Santiago River (not to be confounded with the Amazon tributary of that name), a short distance from the Colombian border, is formed by several large streams, and has many tributaries, receiving its waters from high in the West Cordillera. Some of the lower reaches are navigable for canoes and steam launches.
The Esmeraldas River, second in importance to the Guayas, rises a few miles north of Quito in the high plateau region, from which, breaking through the West Cordillera, it descends to the coast. While not navigable for steamers because of the swift current, it may be ascended by canoes for more than 60 miles. With a great number of tributaries it drains a very large mountain area as well as a slightly smaller region of lowland.
The Guayas is undoubtedly the most important river system on the entire west coast, and the only one admitting much navigation. It drains and irrigates a large region, 14,000 square miles, between the great Andes and the low coastal hills. This section has been called the most fertile belt of tropical America. Below the Island of Puná, the river is lost in the Gulf; above, it has much the character of an estuary up to the city of Guayaquil, 33 miles, where it has a width of more than a mile. Not far above the city, the river loses its name at the confluence of the Daule and Bodegas. These two have other names, as do their tributaries also. The principal branches of the Bodegas, which is known also as the Babahoyo, are the Yaguachi or Chimbo, the Vinces or Quevado, and the Calamara or Sapotal; the Daule farther west, also called the Balzar, is about 130 miles long, not counting its windings. In its upper part it receives the Grande and Peripe Rivers, and lower down a number of streams and esteros or canals.