CONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.--Page [1]
| Travelling in Persia |
| Sleep on Horseback |
| Teheran |
| Reception at the Turkish Embassy |
| Turkey and Persia |
| Ferrukh Khan's Visit to Europe |
| War between Dost Mohammed Khan and Sultan Ahmed Khan |
| Excursion to Shiraz |
CHAPTER II. Page [9]
| Return to Teheran |
| Relief of Sunnites, Dervishes, and Hadjis at the Turkish Embassy |
| Author becomes acquainted with a Karavan of Tartar Hadjis returning from Mecca |
| The different Routes |
| The Author determines to join the Hadjis |
| Hadji Bilal |
| Introduction of Author to his future Travelling Companions |
| Route through the Yomuts and the Great Desert decided upon |
CHAPTER III.--Page [20]
| Departure from Teheran in North-easterly Direction |
| The Component Members of Karavan described |
| Ill-feeling of Shiites towards the Sunnite Hadjis |
| Mazendran |
| Zirab |
| Heften |
| Tigers and Jackals |
| Sari |
| Karatepe |
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CHAPTER IV.--Page [30]
| Karatepe |
| Author entertained by an Afghan, Nur-Ullah |
| Suspicions as to his Dervish Character |
| Hadjis provision themselves for Journey through Desert |
| Afghan Colony |
| Nadir Shah |
| First View of the Caspian |
| Yacoub the Turkoman Boatman |
| Love Talisman |
| Embarkation for Ashourada |
| Voyage on the Caspian |
| Russian Part of Ashourada |
| Russian War Steamers in the Caspian |
| Turkoman Chief, in the Service of Russia |
| Apprehension of Discovery on the Author's part |
| Arrival at Gömüshtepe and at the Mouth of the Gorghen. |
CHAPTER V.--Page [45]
| Arrival at Gömüshtepe, hospitable Reception of the Hadjis |
| Khandjan |
| Ancient Greek Wall |
| Influence of the Ulemas |
| First Brick Mosque of the Nomads |
| Tartar Raids |
| Persian Slaves |
| Excursion to the North-east of Gömüshtepe |
| Tartar Fiancée and Banquet, etc. |
| Preparation of the Khan of Khiva's Kervanbashi for the Journey through the Desert |
| Line of Camels |
| Ilias Beg, the Hirer of Camels |
| Arrangements with Khulkhan |
| Turkoman Expedition to steal Horses in Persia |
| Its Return. |
CHAPTER VI.--Page [70]
| Departure from Gömüshtepe |
| Character of our late Host |
| Turkoman Mounds or Tombs |
| Disagreeable Adventure with Wild Boars |
| Plateau to the North of Gömüshtepe |
| Nomad Habits |
| Turkoman Hospitality |
| The last Goat |
| Persian Slave |
| Commencement of the Desert |
| A Turkoman Wife and Slave |
| Etrek |
| Persian Slaves |
| Russian Sailor Slave |
| Proposed Alliance between Yomuts and Tekke |
| Rendezvous with the Kervanbashi |
| Tribe Kem |
| Adieu to Etrek |
| Afghan makes Mischief |
| Description of Karavan. |
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CHAPTER VII.--Page [90]
| Kervanbashi insists that Author should take no Notes |
| Eid Mehemmed and his Brother's noble Conduct |
| Guide loses his Way |
| Körentaghi, Ancient Ruins, probably Greek |
| Little and Great Balkan |
| Ancient Bed of the Oxus |
| Vendetta |
| Sufferings from Thirst. |
CHAPTER VIII.--Page [113]
| Thunder |
| Gazelles and Wild Asses |
| Arrival at the Plateau Kaftankir |
| Ancient Bed of Oxus |
| Friendly Encampment |
| Approach of Horsemen |
| Gazavat |
| Entry into Khiva |
| Malicious Charge by Afghan |
| Interview with Khan |
| Author required to give Specimen of Turkish Penmanship |
| Robes of Honour estimated by Human Heads |
| Horrible Execution of Prisoners |
| Peculiar Execution of Women |
| Kungrat |
| Author's last Benediction of the Khan. |
CHAPTER IX.--Page [144]
FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.
| Departure from Khiva for Bokhara |
| Ferry across the Oxus |
| Great Heat |
| Shurakhan |
| Market |
| Singular Dialogue with Kirghis Woman on Nomadic Life |
| Tünüklü |
| Alaman of the Tekke |
| Karavan alarmed returns to Tünüklü |
| Forced to throw itself into the Desert, 'Destroyer of Life' |
| Thirst |
| Death of Camels |
| Death of a Hadji |
| Stormy Wind |
| Precarious State of Author |
| Hospitable Reception amongst Persian Slaves |
| First Impression of Bokhara the Noble. |
CHAPTER X.--Page [167]
| Bokhara |
| Reception at the Tekkie, the Chief Nest of Islamism |
| Rahmet Bi |
| Bazaars |
| Baha-ed-din, Great Saint of Turkestan |
| Spies set upon Author |
| Fate of recent Travellers in Bokhara |
| Book Bazaar |
| The Worm (Rishte) |
| Water Supply |
| Late and present Emirs |
| Harem, Government, Family of Reigning Emir |
| Slave Depot and Trade |
| Departure from Bokhara, and Visit to the Tomb of Baha-ed-din. |
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CHAPTER XI.--Page [197]
| Bokhara to Samarcand |
| Little Desert of Chöl Melik |
| Animation of Road owing to War |
| First View of Samarcand |
| Haszreti Shah Zinde |
| Mosque of Timour |
| Citadel (Ark) |
| Reception Hall of Timour |
| Köktash or Timour's Throne |
| Singular Footstool |
| Timour's Sepulchre and that of his Preceptor |
| Author visits the actual Tomb of Timour in the Souterrain |
| Folio Koran ascribed to Osman, Mohammed's Secretary |
| Colleges |
| Ancient Observatory |
| Greek Armenian Library not, as pretended, carried off by Timour |
| Architecture of Public Buildings not Chinese but Persian |
| Modern Samarcand |
| Its Population |
| Dehbid |
| Author decides to return |
| Arrival of Emir |
| Author's Interview with him |
| Parting from the Hadjis, and Departure from Samarcand. |
CHAPTER XII.--Page [222]
| Samarcand to Karshi through Desert |
| Nomads |
| Karshi, the Ancient Nakhseb |
| Trade and Manufacture |
| Kerki |
| Oxus |
| Author charged with being runaway Slave |
| Ersari Turkomans |
| Mezari Sherif |
| Belkh |
| Author joins Karavan from Bokhara |
| Slavery |
| Zeid |
| Andkhuy |
| Yeketut |
| Khairabad |
| Maymene |
| Akkale. |
CHAPTER XIII.--Page [244]
| Maymene |
| Its Political Position and Importance |
| Reigning Prince |
| Rivalry of Bokhara and Kabul |
| Dost Mohammed Khan |
| Ishan Eyub and Mollah Khalmurad |
| Khanat and Fortress of Maymene |
| Escaped Russian Offenders |
| Murgab River and Bala Murgab |
| Djemshidi and Afghan |
| Ruinous Taxes on Merchandise |
| Kalè No |
| Hezare |
| Afghan Exactions and Maladministration. |
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CHAPTER XIV.--Page [269]
HERAT.
| Herat |
| Its Ruinous State |
| Bazaar |
| Author's Destitute Condition |
| The Serdar Mehemmed Yakoub Khan |
| Parade of Afghan Troops |
| Interview with Serdar |
| Conduct of Afghans on storming Herat |
| Nazir Naim the Vizir |
| Embarrassed State of Revenue |
| Major Todd |
| Mosalla, and Tomb of Sultan Husein Mirza |
| Tomb of Khodja Abdullah Ansari, and of Dost Mohammed Khan. |
CHAPTER XV.--Page [286]
FROM HERAT TO LONDON.
| Author joins Karavan for Meshed |
| Kuhsun, last Afghan Town |
| False Alarm from Wild Asses |
| Debatable Ground between Afghan and Persian Territory |
| Bifurcation of Route |
| Yusuf Khan Hezareh |
| Ferimon |
| Colonel Dolmage |
| Prince Sultan Murad Mirza |
| Author avows who he is to the Serdar of Herat |
| Shahrud |
| Teheran, and Welcome there by the Turkish Charge d' Affaires, Ismael Efendi |
| Kind Reception by Mr. Alison and the English Embassy |
| Interview with the Shah |
| The Kavvan ud Dowlet and the Defeat at Merv |
| Return by Trebisond and Constantinople to Pesth |
| Author leaves the Khiva Mollah behind him at Pesth and proceeds to London |
| His Welcome in the last-named City. |