LIST OF MAPS.
Some maps have been moved from their original location as printed in the List. Maps shown in the text are thumbnails linked to larger versions. Blue lines and numbers were extremely faded and have been redrawn. Note that some maps include segments of railroad which had been planned but not completed at the time of the guidebook's publication in 1888.
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| [Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica], showing the relative position of their principal towns; as also the ports connected with each other by steamboat | Fly-leaf |
| [General Map of Corsica] | [1] |
| [Plan of Ajaccio].—The town is built on rising ground | [3] |
| [Environs of Ajaccio] | [6] |
| [The Western Central Region.]—This is the least known and the most difficult portion of the island to traverse. Yet easy and picturesque short excursions may be made from Porto, Evisa and Galeria, into the forests of evergreen oaks, etc | [20] |
| [Central Corsica], or the most troublesome part of the grand highway, which traverses Corsica from south to north, from Sartène to Ponte alla Leccia, whence it ramifies eastward to Bastia and westward to Calvi and Ile Rousse. It joins the railway and the road between Ajaccio and Corté near Vivario | [27] |
[CORSICA]
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Corsica [— larger view — ] |
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Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, and 106 m. S.E. from Nice. It is [116 m. long, 52 m. broad], and contains an area of 3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, subdivided into 62 cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a population of 275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is under cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain chains, diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts [Cinto], 8892 ft.; [Rotondo], 8613 ft.; [Pagliorba], 8278 ft.; [Padro], 7846 ft.; and [Oro], 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the island these ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the sea; while, on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes between their termination and the coast, in summer troubled with malaria, but in a less degree than formerly.
Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The [chestnut trees] are as large and fruitful as the best on the Apennines, and the nuts form the staple article of food for man and beast during the winter months. Indeed, these glorious chestnut and beech forests, when in full foliage, are the grand features of Corsican scenery, which therefore cannot be seen to advantage till towards the end of May, and if to this we add the splendid bloom of the oleanders, not till July. “I at any rate know of no such combination of sea and mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the north with the rich colours of the south; no region where within so small a space nature takes so many sublime and exquisite aspects as she does in Corsica. Palms, orange groves, olives, vines, maize and chestnuts; the most picturesque beech forests, the noblest pine woods in Europe; granite peaks, snows and frozen lakes—all these are brought into the compass of a day’s journey. Everything is as novel to the Alpine climber as if, in place of being on a fragment of the Alps, severed only by 100 miles from their nearest snows, he was in a different continent.”—D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.
Vegetation.
The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make very savoury and delicate eating.
There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour.
The only remarkable creature is the [mouflon], a species of sheep, resembling that almost extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. It inhabits the highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed.
The best red [wines] are grown about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and Sartene, and the best white wines in Sari and in the valleys of Cape Corso. They improve up to twenty years, and even up to fifty.
The temperature of the [climate of Corsica] varies according to the elevation. Along the coast the sun is warm even in January. After January the temperature rises rapidly. The climate of the zone 2000 ft. above the sea is considerably colder and snow generally appears there in December. The olive ripens its fruit up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and the chestnut to 3000, where it gives place to oaks, box trees, junipers, firs and beeches. The greater part of the population inhabits the region of the chestnut trees, in villages scattered over the mountain slopes, valleys and tablelands.
Steamers to Corsica.—For invalids the easiest way is by the large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, 12 R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, touches at Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including meals, 38 frs. The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebière, have boats every week for Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, 28 frs., Bastia and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. Weekly steamers between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the Compagnie Insulaire being smaller, come within a few yards of the mole. The luggage is landed from the steamers by the company free of expense and is delivered at the custom-house to the proprietor on presentation of the bulletin de baggage. Passengers are taken ashore and to their hotels for 2 frs. each.
The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a steamer every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of Sicily, calling at Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 miles, fare 20 frs., time 7 hrs.
Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly.
Ajaccio
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[AJACCIO.]
[Hotels.]—On an eminence, in its own grounds, rising gently from the sea, is the *Grand Hotel, with sea and fresh water baths and every convenience; opened at the end of the present year. A skilled English physician on the premises.
There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1½ fr., carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., smooth wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1¼ fr., partially carpeted wood floors, garden.
These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast and dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the lowest price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is the H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs.
[Bankers and Money-changers.]—The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank Lanzi, both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome.
The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same Boulevard; the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du Marché.
[Cabs.]—The course 1½ fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs.
[Tariff of return drives], with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose.
West from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; St. Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. North from Ajaccio: Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col Carbinica, 25 frs.; Afa, 20 frs.
East from Ajaccio: the Campo dell’ Oro, or the plain at the mouth of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity for a whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a day.
AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours’ sail from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the residence of the Préfet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome [Episcopal chapel] built by Miss Campbell, of Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a work on the island in French and English.
In the Cours Napoleon is a small French [mission], whose worthy pastor, besides conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures (conferences) every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people.
The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each story forming a separate dwelling.
The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of the Place du Marché. In the centre of this “Place” is a fountain ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel ([p. 5]); while to the right is the Rue Napoleon, in which the first opening right leads into the Place Letitia. A little beyond this opening is No. 17, the house of the [Pozzo di Borgo] family, of whom Charles André, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter enemy of Napoleon I. Napoleon’s house, though not equal to that of the Borgo family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white marble “Napoleon est né dans cette maison le XV Aovt MDCCLXIX”. A good staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron railing, leads to the top. The rooms shown are on the first floor. The first is the parlour, with a small table, a few chairs, and a piano said to have belonged to Mme. Letitia. Then after having passed through a small chamber we enter the room in which Napoleon was born, into which Madame was brought hurriedly from the church in the sedan chair kept in the end room. Over the chimney-piece are portraits of the father and mother. Then follows the dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, with inlaid wood floor and six windows on both sides. The floors of all the other rooms are of glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan chair. Fee for party 1 fr.
This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by the fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men’s children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Cæsar, and their three young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their neighbours’ daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth—tear them from the heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the sight of
all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause themselves to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors and kings. Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis King of Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and Pauline and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of Madame Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, the house was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic.
Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on the 21st July 1771.
In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the edifice is the [public library], with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien Bonaparte, and the museum and [picture gallery], with 900 paintings, mostly copies; and in the other the memorial chapel built by Napoleon III., lined with beautiful marble. In the crypt under the transept, left hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and right hand, that of Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in 1839. Both bodies were brought to this, their present resting-place, in 1851. There are, besides, the tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his daughter. Napoleon’s father died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. Madame was only 35 at his death and had already borne him 13 children, 5 of whom were dead, and Jerome was an infant in the cradle.
Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of “E. C. Abbatucci né à Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la patrie le 2 Decembre 1796.” Near it is the railway station.
At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, “à la memoire de Napoleon I. et de ses frères Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome.” All are life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, marching solemnly towards the sea.
EXCURSIONS.
From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a
pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires.
A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2½ m. to the [Fontaine du Salario], 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by is the “grotte Napoleon,” composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire.
About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of [Carrosaccia], on the canal which supplies the town with water from the Gravona. 5½ m. N. from Ajaccio are the [sulphurous springs of Caldaniccia].
In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, are the numerous [fountains] in the villages and by the road side, whence flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity.
Climate.—For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too, the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic, there is very little dust in the neighbourhood ([p. 9]).
The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E. wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind.
On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of [St. Pancras] is held, which affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from 10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads.
[But more wonderful still] is it to see the peasant women and girls as young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs.
Among the [curiosities] of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets made of straw by the girls of Alata.
Environs of Ajaccio
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[ Ajaccio to Bastia.]
Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario.
AJACCIO
BASTIA 95 AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of [Ucciani], 948 ft., built in the reign of Louis XIV., 17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village of Ucciani. Use [general map], and [map, p. 27].
AJACCIO
BASTIA 25 70 BOCOGNANO pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. Inn: Univers. Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to the top of the ridge. See [map, p. 27].
AJACCIO
BASTIA 31 64 LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards is Monte d’Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards [Monte Renoso], 7733 ft. The diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. [Of this tree there are two varieties], the [Pinus pinaster] or cluster pine, the Pin maritime of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the [Pinus laricio], which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber is good and durable, though less strong than that of the Pinus silvestris. Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones are passed the “Maison de Refuge d’Alzarella,” and the “Maison de refuge Omellina,” 2832 ft.
After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio, the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is
AJACCIO
BASTIA 38 57 VIVARIO pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. Inn: H. Voyageurs a three-storied house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. ([pp. 27], [29]). Although Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are the most important industries of the inhabitants.
From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of [Vadina], by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1½ m., the [Col Erbajo] 3018 ft., 7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli 12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. [to the Baths of Pietrapola], which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and much frequented.
The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From [Serraggio], 1890 ft., Mt d’Oro is well seen. See [map, p. 20].
The road now passes [Lugo], 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to
AJACCIO
BASTIA 51 44 CORTÉ 1329 ft., pop. 5500. Hotels: *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the “Place” is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in 1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli’s time. Near Corté, by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the valley is Mte. Rotondo. See [map, p. 20].
Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. ([p. 33]), by a beautiful road.
Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards.
[From Corté the ascent of Monte Rotondo] is most easily effected. It is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide
with mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté. From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo to the shepherds’ huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After about 2 hours’ scramble over these colossal steps the traveller reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit, which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours’ climbing to reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake [Bettianella], 3419 ft., then W. by the road over the [Col de Manganella], 5874 ft. See [map, p. 20].
“The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range, Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella.”—D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.
The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft., passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 from Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it crosses the Golo by the [Francardo bridge], 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, [p. 18], and [map, p. 20].
AJACCIO
BASTIA 66 29 PONTE ALLA LECCIA 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. Inn: Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation of the road from Prunete by Cervione and [Piedicroce], [p. 20]. "Courrier" daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see [p. 34]. During the summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious.
AJACCIO
BASTIA 71 24 PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May 1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and
became subject to France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down the river, were Paoli’s headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel for England ([p. 39]).
AJACCIO
BASTIA 85 10 BORGO pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from [Lake Biguglia], one of the many [lagoons on the eastern coast], separated from the sea by narrow sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica. Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo and Bastia is [Bevinco], with valuable marble quarries. Southward from Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius ([p. 34]).
AJACCIO 95 BASTIA pop. 21,000. Hotels: *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8 to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. [Steamers] twice a week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino’s steamers leave three times a week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards to Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio.
Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs.
Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2 frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See [p. 12].
Bastia, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this “Place”, the promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet’s office is at the old harbour; whence also their steamers sail.
From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels, cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the
town. At the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the “Place” fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story forming a separate residence.
Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the 14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to [map on fly-leaf].
The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black’s South France) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station, and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains. At the station and in the kiosques in the “Piazzas” of Leghorn, is sold an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, L’Indicatore Ufficiale, price 50 c.