CAP CORSE.
[Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia.]
See [General Map], p. 1.
By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance 27½ m., 6 hrs. To Morsaglia, 5½ and 4½ frs., distance 37½ m., 8 hrs. By the road skirting the eastern side of the peninsula of Cap Corse, the best cultivated part of the island, and containing the tidiest villages. The best Cap Corse [wine], mostly white, is produced around Luri and Rogliano. The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It improves till the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and twentieth year. Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or serra, of which the
culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea.
Mr. Freshfield thus describes the “Cap”:—“Down a promontory 8 to 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the crest towards the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. Hence the western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, sometimes sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession of low maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through the vale of Luri, under Seneca’s tower, falls into the western Cornice. Half-way on this road the village of [Luri] groups itself in the most picturesque way imaginable on a hill-side broken by a deep ravine. Down on the seashore above the little Marina or port is a large convent; a church occupies a projecting brow 200 ft. above it; higher still, and right and left, every vantage-ground is occupied by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral chapels. The slopes are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach and almond trees, olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales of winter by high palisades.”
Farther south, 5¼ m., is [Nonza], with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach to St. Florent. This is one of the most curious villages of the island. It stands like an eagle’s nest, perched above the sea on a black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, built level with the edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a sufficient rampart against marauders.
The diligence having passed Lavasina 4½ m. from Bastia, Brando 7 m., and [Erbalunga] 6¼ m., halts at Sisco-port 9¼ m. To visit the cave of [Brando] take the steep narrow path left, near a mill, just before arriving at Erbalunga. Seats in shady places are placed here and there. The keeper’s house is close to the entrance. The diligence then proceeds by Pietracorbara 11½ m., and the [Torre all’Osse] 13 m.; one of the best remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans and Genoese to ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the diligence proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts.
Two miles farther is [S. Severa], where the horses are changed and the passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies 10 m. W. to Pino on the other side of the peninsula by the valley of the Luri, with vineyards and orange groves, passing the village of Luri 3½ m., with good inn, the [Col de S. Lucie] 7 m., 1363 ft., and Saronese 9¾ m. From the Santa Severa inn, Seneca’s tower is distinctly seen, at the head of the valley, on the summit of a precipitous peak, rising from the S. side of the Col, 1355 ft., from which a steep, stony path leads up
to it, by a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this tower, one of the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca could never have been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then used as a place of banishment for political offenders.
Seneca.
Lucius Annæus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his banishment, A.D. 41, he had already served as quæstor. Having irritated Caligula, he would have been put to death, had not one of the mistresses of the emperor assured him that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so consumptive he would soon die a natural death.
In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica A.D. 41.
During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother Helvia, as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man.
After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her influence Seneca was recalled A.D. 49 and appointed a prætor and tutor to Nero, then 11 years old. In A.D. 51 Agrippina poisoned her husband.
[ Macinaggio.—Rogliano.—Botticella.]
From S. Severa, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes Meria 20½ m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2½ m. more. [From this commences the steep ascent up to Rogliano] 1300 ft., a town built in groups on the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and chestnut trees, the inn being in the second highest group, near the post-office.
After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, Cappiaja and S. Nicholas, and [arrives at Botticella] 31 m., and then proceeds to [Ersa] with inn, near the top of the [Col de Serra] 1182 ft., commanding a good view of Cap Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence arrives at [Morsaglia], called also [Pecorile], a village composed of groups of houses like Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the diligence will show the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is [Pino], see [p. 12].
From Botticella a road leads 4½ m. N. to [Barcaggio], opposite the [island of Giraglia], on which is a first-class lighthouse, 269 feet above the sea, seen within a radius of 14 m.
From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the [Col S. Bernardino] on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, 25 m. from the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21½ m.; Marinca, 16 m.; [Nonza], 9 m.; Farinole, 2½ m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1¼ m.; and joins the Bastia road at the Col S. Bernardino, 11¼ m. W. from Bastia.
[ Bastia to Calvi.]
57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs.
BASTIA
CALVI 57 BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marbœuf, at which, it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m. from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded with oleanders.
BASTIA
CALVI 14¼ 42¾ ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l’Europe, where a hurried breakfast can be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon said, “St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It lies most favourably for commerce, its landing
places are safe and its roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large and beautiful city.” It was one of the first places to give adherence to the Bank of Genoa.
The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more imposing, as we approach the little port of
BASTIA
CALVI 42 15 L’ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the “Place” near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the “Place” leads by the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a church, now abandoned.
Inland from L’Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for the size and fertility of its olive trees ([p. 20]).
BASTIA
CALVI 47 10 [ALGAJOLA], pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place. Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry.
BASTIA
CALVI 51 6 LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through a charming and picturesque country (see [p. 20]).
BASTIA 57 CALVI, pop. 2200. Inns: H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former, although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off. Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is [Calenzana], pop. 2900, with the chapel of S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.
[ Calvi to Ajaccio.]
CALVI
AJACCIO 102 Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of the way. The first village is [Galeria], pop. 500—Inn: Seta, 21 miles S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16 miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the [forest of evergreen oaks of Treccio], as well as the commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the [forest of Perticato] by the [Col Erbajo], 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft.
[ Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.]
Grand scenery. Guide necessary. [Map, p. 20].
This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a mule-path when near the [Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa], 14 m. E.
3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col d’Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the [Bocca Melza], 2500 ft., 4½ m. S. From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. afterwards.
8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.
11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown [valley of the Lonca], an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of [Mt. Tafonato], 7687 ft., to the N.E., with its singularly perforated peak.
13¼ m. is the [Grand Cassis d’Ometa], 1680 ft. A little farther the road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison de Cantonniers d’Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the forest of Ometa.
15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and about 2 m. farther the summit of [Col Capronale], 4495 ft. A little way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo ([p. 18]).
Having crossed the [Col de Castellaccio], 850 feet, and passed through the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we arrive at
CALVI
AJACCIO 51 51 [PORTO] (Inn: H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see [p. 18].
The road from Porto to La Piana ([map, p. 20]) affords a delightful
drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about 1250 feet, the traveller reaches
CALVI
AJACCIO 58 44 LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. Inn: H. France. Delightfully situated, with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and 1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the soil where it tries to grow.
CALVI
AJACCIO 70 32 CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. Inn: H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of 730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de Marbœuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.
CALVI
AJACCIO 79 23 SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see [p. 23]), and also with the [road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aïtone], passing by the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12½ m.; the [Col Sevi], 3612 ft., 13¼ m.; [Cristinacce], 16½ m.; and the [Col Lacciola], 3040 ft. in the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the [cold sulphurous springs of Caldanella]; efficacious as a tonic.
CALVI
AJACCIO 87½ 14½ [CALCATOGGIO], pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the [Col Sebastien], 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches
CALVI 102 [AJACCIO], 102 miles south-west from Calvi.
[ Porto to the Ponte Francardo.]
50 miles north-east. [Map, p. 20].
This important forest road traverses the region of the highest mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.
[Porto to Evisa], 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path to [Chidazzo], and ½ m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters [Evisa], pop. 1000; Inn: *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.
Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine called the [Spelunca], at the confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto. Rambles and drives into the [forest of Aïtone], from which unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.
[Evisa to Albertacce], 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (Pinus laricio), whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, by this road, is the [Maison forestière d’Aïtone], where those provided with introductions, see [p. 41], will find pleasant headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical expeditions. 1¼ m. farther is the [house of the road menders (Cantonniers) of Tagnone]; where lodging can also be had.
The road having made several detours to get round the heads of ravines, ascends the [Col de Vergio] 4803 ft. on the great mountain chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to the W., is an admirable view of [Mt. Tafonato], 7687 ft., almost due N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From [Mt. Cuculla], 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ hours W. from the Col is a still better view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond the summit of the Col is the [Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio], whence there is a good view of the [forest of Valdoniello], 11,483 acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest commenced in 1863.
After arriving at the [Maison forestière de Sciattarina] 10½ m. from
Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends into the valley of the [Golo]; which has its source in a ravine between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.
Four and a half miles farther is the [Maison forestière de Popaja], 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.
Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the [Niolo]; now called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.
From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to [Casamaccioli], 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to Corté by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the Tavignano.
Albertacce.—Monte Cinto.
[Albertacce], 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the ascent is made of [Monte Cinto], 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 for the descent. The path ascends by [Calasima], 3610 ft., to the height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more or less fatiguing.
When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the beginning of summer on account of the snow.
To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests.
Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between the lake and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between high mountains, the highest being [Mt. Retto], 6592 at the western end.
[Albertacce to Ponte Francardo], 18 m. N.E. The road follows the Golo. To the left, a road 1¼ m., leads up to [Lozzi], pop. 1050. 2½ m. from Albertacce is [Calacuccia], 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther, another byeroad ascends to [Corscia], 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5 hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. [Asco] is 5 hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the Tassinella, and the [Col de Petrella], 6440 ft., to the S. of [Mt. Corona], 7032 ft.
Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is the commencement of the [Scala di Santa Regina], as this part of road is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the stronghold of robbers.
Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the [Pont du Diable], 1083 ft., where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the [Col of Oninanda], 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it.
The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between [Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi]; by [Castiglione] 3¼ m., pop. 550, at the foot of [Mt. Traunato], 7186 ft., [Popolasca], 7 m., pop. 200, with beautiful red granite pinnacles, and [Moltifao] 12 m., pop. 1050, with Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco. The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of [Asco], pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of the best points from which to make the ascent of [Mt. Cinto].
The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See [p. 9] and [General Map].
Corsica Western Central Region
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[ Calvi to Corté or to Bastia.]
See [General Map].
By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi and the Col Colombano. “If I were to permit myself to dwell in detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially after quitting the route forestière a little E. of the hamlet of Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper. Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that ‘those who visit Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one of its finest divisions,’ adding, ‘no description can exaggerate the beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.’ The district is densely peopled—at least twelve large villages are situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance of 21 miles—and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills, whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually varying views over ‘bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.’”—F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.
CALVI
CORTÉ 61 CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn a different view of [the fertile valley of Balagna], extending from the distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three varieties, the Sabine (Sabinacci), the Saracen (Saraceni),
and the Genoese (Genovesi), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.
After passing the picturesquely situated village of [Lavatoggio], 9 m.; the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of [Feliceto], inn, pop. 640, 16¼ m.; Castor, 24 m.; [Speloncato]; Ville di [Paraso], pop. 750; Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives at
CALVI
CORTÉ 26¾ 34¼ BELGODERE 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the stables, where the horses are changed.
[Forest Road from Belgodere to the Forest of Tartagine.]
From Belgodere, Route Forestière, No. 3, leads down to the small port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4½ E. from the Ile Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca Campana, 2782 feet, 3¼ miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and 2½ miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the high crests of the [Capo Dente] 6667 ft. on the west, and of [Mt. Padro] on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the Pinus laricio and the P. pinaster, intermingled with ilexes or evergreen oaks ([p. 41]).
[“][Olmi-Capella] 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., [Monte Cineraggia] 5286 ft., [Monte Grosso] 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al Dente 6667 ft., and [Monte Corona] 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the route forestière, which crosses the Col de Bocca
Croce 3048 ft., and by which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much more directly with [Ville] and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 ft., and Bocca Croce d’Ovo 3629 feet; with [Feliceto] by the Bocca Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the [Bocca di Cineraggia] 4698 ft.; with [Calenzana] by the [Bocca Bianca] 6155 ft., with Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.; and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l’Ondella 6086 ft.”—F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.
CALVI
CORTÉ 28¾ 32¼ PALASCA pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last village on this side of the
CALVI
CORTÉ 31½ 29½ [COL DE SAN COLOMBANO] 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge called the
CALVI
CORTÉ 46¾ 14¼ PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corté (see [p. 8]) or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see [p. 10]). The [Ponte Nuovo] is distinctly seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli’s headquarters during the battle (see pp. [9] and [39]).
CALVI 61 [CORTÉ], see [page 8].
Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa.
33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs.
AJACCIO
VICO 33 AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d’Armes, as well as the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. [To the right are the village of Appietto], pop. 700, on a hill and the great cliff [Monte Gozzi], 656 feet high.
AJACCIO
VICO 12 21 Summit of the [COL ST. SEBASTIEN], 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargésé, and of the valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine and [capital sea-urchins] can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of the shell by cutting it in two horizontally.
23 10 [SAGONA] junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see [p. 17]).
AJACCIO
VICO 31 2 Summit of the [COL ST. ANTOINE], 1488 feet. [Near the top, at some distance to the left, is the village of Balogna], pop. 600, while in front is seen the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys.
The road to the left or N. leads to [Evisa], 18 miles from Vico, pop. 1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. Hotel: Carrara, a comfortable house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the confines of the [forest of Aïtone], containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aïtone, or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large [forest of Valdoniello], 11,483 acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains, plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains.
From Evisa descend to Porto (see [p. 18]).
AJACCIO 33 VICO pop. 2020. Inns: France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs; Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone, surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut, walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of the élite of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets, and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage of the chestnut groves around.
Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone and by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and the Col de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous springs, resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the Pyrenees (see Black’s South France). From May to September they are much frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. Time, 2 hours; fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. Charge, 10 frs.
[ Ajaccio to Sartène.]
53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 53 AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartène is to take the steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartène, and there to await the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pass of Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 12½ 40½ CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. Inn. Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views.
[ Cauro to Bastelica.]
12 m. northwards by “Courrier” by a charming forest road, which after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, enters the defile of the Prunelli at the [Col de Menta], about 2 m. from Bastelica.
The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1½ m. Four miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road ramifies 7½ m. S. to S. Maria-Siché and Grossetto. On the right side of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo. Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen. 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestière surrounded by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little farther a road ramifies 4½ m. by the wild and beautiful [valley of the Else] into the [forest of Ponteniello], and where it ends a mule path commences to [Frasseto], pop. 750, on the coach road between Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7½ m. the Zipitoli bridge across the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the right side of the river is the [Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli].
8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and continues by its banks to
[Bastelica], pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. [Sampiero] was born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, placed by “[William Wyse], Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon the Great.”
Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of [Mt. Renoso], 7733 ft., 5½ hrs. N.E.
In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine velvety swards. [Map, p. 27].
Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartène road attains the summit of the [Col St. Georges], 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 20 33 [APA] whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of Guitera and Zicavo. [Maps, pp. 1] and [27].
[Ajaccio to Zicavo and the Baths of Guitera.]
8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., then by the slopes of the Punta del [Castello], 2674 ft., through a charming country, to [S. Maria-Siché], 2 m. from Apa, inn where coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the unfortunate
[Vanina], strangled by Sampiero, [p. 39]. The ruins of the chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at [Campo], pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo. 1¼ m. farther is [Frasseto], pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the [Col de Granace],[B*] 2713 ft., with a splendid view. [Zecavo], 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the [Sposata], 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely situation. 14½ m. from Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern. The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from [Mt. Coscione], whence it climbs up through the gorge to
Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. From Zicavo the ascent is made of [Monte Incudine], 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds’ huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher de l’Incudine.
Nelson.
“The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica—a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the Two Sicilies. The one beside it, [Maddalena], is linked with even greater memories—[Nelson and Napoleon]. Under its lee, in a bay which
Nelson christened ‘Agincourt Sound,’ the British fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson’s gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that [Napoleon], in 1793, first saw fire. For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as Greece, to find such another.”—D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See [map on fly-leaf].
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 21 32 [GROSSETO] 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 30 23 [BICCHISANO] 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and [Cassalabriva], pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the [Col Celaccia], 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from [Sollacaro], pop. 800, where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 39 14 OLMETO pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.
The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near the [hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci], arrives at
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 44½ 8½ PROPRIANO pop. 1000. H. France. Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic monuments called the Stazione del’ Diavolo.
[Propriano to Solenzara.]
Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route Forestière, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42½ m. N.E. This road ascends by the Rizzanese to [S. Lucia di Tallano], whence eastward to [Levie], 1970 ft.; and thence [Zonza], 2586 ft. The road afterwards ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the [Col Bavella], 3965 ft.; whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it crosses the [Col Larone], 2013; whence it descends by a winding road partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara to Solenzara (see [p. 36]).
Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long ascent to Sartène, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft.
AJACCIO 53 SARTÈNE 1000 feet; pop. 6010; Inns: Commerce: Univers. Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di Tallano. Old Sartène is a town of narrow streets approached by a fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the “Place” form the new town.
Corsica, Central Region
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[Sartène to Corté by Vivario,]
up the centre of the island. [Maps, pp. 1] and [27].
This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartène, 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corté road, which it joins at the 60 kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, ½ mile from Vivario. All the diligences between Ajaccio and Corté halt at the inn of Vivario ([p. 8]).
After leaving Sartène the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and [Cargiaca] 15 m. N. from Sartène 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 ft., with a quarry of a beautiful [amphibole], a variety of hornblende. The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with black spots (see [p. 37]).
From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends through the [ilex forest of Taca] amidst towering mountains and vertical cliffs by [the villages of Zerubia and Aullene], 2736 ft., pop. 1100; inn; 21 m. N. from Sartène. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 ft., then the Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d’Alisandri, 3426 ft., to Zicavo, 2445 ft., with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, 3½ m. E. from the baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from Sartène and 37 m. S. from Vivario.
From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to [Olivese] 1460 ft., pop. 700, in the valley of the Taravo, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful road.
From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to [Cozzano], 40 m., pop. 900, and enters the valley of the Taravo, which it ascends by the east bank between two great mountain chains, the culminating point of the western chain being [Mt. Don Giovanni] 6405 ft., and that of the eastern [Pointe Capella] 6706 ft.
Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads 1½ m. E. to the [Maison Forestière of St. Antoine], whence a mule path by the Col de [Rapara], 5557 ft., extends to [Isolaccio] and the [hot baths of Pietrapola], [p. 8], by a picturesque road through a beautiful part of the forest.
Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the [Col Scrivano], 2959 ft., whence a mule path leads across the valley to [Palneca], pop. 1050, on the wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft.
A little below the summit of the Col is the [Maison de Cantonniers de Scrivano].
Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, fronting a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This is the commencement of the real Verde forest.
Eleven and three quarter miles from [Zicavo] is the [Maison de Cantonniers de Ghiraldino], 3936 ft., 49 m. N. from Sartène, 2 m. S. from the Col Verde and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little beyond the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest parts of the [Verde forest].
Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from Sartène is the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the [Maison de Cantonniers de Marmano]. Below is the [forest of Marmano], with its best trees cut down, and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers [Taravo], 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the [Fium Orbo], 3783 ft. under a mountain a little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the [Prunelli], 4790 ft., among a group of high mountains to the W. The [Vecchio] rises from the springs on Mt. Oro.
Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartène is the Refuge de Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer station of the [Casabianda] penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed such outrages that the government at the repeated petitioning of the shepherds were obliged to withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned also, and the prisoners removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where they could be well looked after.
Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestière, or 1¼ m. farther at the [Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia], 2760 ft., in the rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, 6 m., 3 bridges and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second bridge, the Pont de Casso, 4½ m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great pinnacles or needles and lofty cliffs of [Albuccia Point] or [Kyrie Eleison], 4935 ft.
From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the
flanks of mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly before reaching
Ghisoni, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartène, 12 m. S. from [Vivario], 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and 24 m. N. from Zicavo. Four m. N. from Ghisoni the road crosses the [Col Scozzolatojo], 3916 ft., and 2 m. farther the [Col Sorba], 4310 ft., 6 m. S. from Vivario, see [p. 8]. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is very striking. It is effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a noble pine forest. Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte d’Oro, Monte Rotondo, and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corté, the crags of Monte Traunato.
The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at Sartène or Vivario, 20 frs. per day.
[ Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia.]
18 m. S.E. [Maps, pp. 1] and [27].
By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the dangerous parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain before starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying the logs, and to arrange accordingly.
The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., where it crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of the Fium Orbo, crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the Salto della Sposata 4½ m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a narrow bed between vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. high.
The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great portals. From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock of Inzecca, the sea at Aleria.
After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine cliffs. It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de l’Inzecca, and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l’Inzecca, 7 m. from [Ghisoni], 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is cut through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for the waggons to pass. [Map, p. 27].
The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to Vezzani.
Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, 355 ft., and 8¾ m. farther is Ghisonaccia, [p. 32].
[ Sartène to Bonifacio.]
33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours.
SARTÈNE
BONIFACIO 33 SARTÈNE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock called il [Leone Coronato]. East from the gulf the road passes the village of Pianottoli, 21 m. from Sartène, almost due south from the singular mountain l’Uomo di [Cagna], 3980 ft.; then the bridge across the Figari at the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col de la Testa or Scopeto, 225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the Ventilegni, 27 m. from Sartène, and 6 from Bonifacio.
SARTÈNE 33 BONIFACIO pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. Diligences leave daily for Bastia, Sartène, and Ajaccio. A steamer arrives every Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio was founded in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect this part of the island against the piratical incursions of the Saracens. The high town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising vertically from the sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine natural dock, hemmed in by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only 328 yards towards the sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series of steps leads up to the high town, entering it through the Porte Vieille. In the old house fronting this Porte or gateway, [Charles V.], in 1541, stayed two days and a night on his return from his unsuccessful expedition against Algiers. Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in the Gulf of Santa Manza. The door of the house, decorated with an arabesque on marble, is in the narrow side street. In the Place d’Armes are the church of San Domenico, built by the Templars, characterised by its octagonal tower with an embrasured termination; and the great tower “Torrione,” part of the fortifications built by the marquis, and formerly the most important part of the citadel. Near this tower is the flight of steps “Redragon,” cut in the rock by the Genoese, which descends by 202 steps to the sea. The small room over the gateway of the citadel, opposite the house of Charles V., was inhabited by [Napoleon] for nearly eight months. There are grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town consists of tall, dingy houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases dirty streets. The promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace before the church of Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern.
Of the numerous [caves] which pierce the base of the rock of Bonifacio, the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below the
Place d’Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a freshwater lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a vaulted roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The water is brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly transparent, with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are 39 private and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the roofs is stored up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an aqueduct. The afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for one or party should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the Dragonetta, cannot be visited when the sea is rough.
On [Monte Pertusato] (the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from Bonifacio, is a lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. The southern promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites.
[ Bonifacio to Bastia.]
103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by rail.
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 103 BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, 2½ miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the bridge across the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17½ miles (whence the Route Forestière, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the forest of the Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 27 76 PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hôtel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence halts) 41½ miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of Corsica—plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From the north side of the Travo commences a [series of large lakes] swarming with fish and a kind of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long narrow sandbanks, like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from June to October, but even then only the night should be avoided in travelling along this coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of Favona, 33 m., arrives at
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 45 58 SOLENZARA. Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the forest of Bavella by the [Col Bavella] 18½ m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, 22 m., 2982 ft. to [Zonza], 24½ m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the village of S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and other 2½ m.
the village of [Levie]; 30 m. S.W. from Solenzara, and 10½ from Propriano is [S. Lucia de Tallano], on the highroad to Aullene (see [p. 27]), and for continuation of this road to Propriano see [p. 26].
The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, 46 m., and Casamozza, 48½ m., arrives at the railway station of
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 53 50 GHISONACCIA pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corté. From this a department road of 4½ m. leads to the [hot sulphurous baths of Pietrapola], with a large hotel in a healthy situation.
From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of [Poggio-di-Nazza], 9½ m., and [Lugo-di-Nazza], 11½ m. From Ghisonaccia railway station a forest road extends 18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where it joins the high road between Sartène and Vivario ([p. 29]). The southern prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, Bicchisano, and [Portopollo], on the Gulf of Valinco.
Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a village situated on a well-cultivated estate belonging to the government; formerly used as an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile criminals. In the hot season it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda than at Aleria.
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 58¼ 44¾ ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at the mouth of the Tavignano, 1¼ m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 B.C., occupied both banks of the Tavignano, which waters one of the finest plains in the world, where winter is unknown. The site of the town was well selected. The population was probably 20,000.
It was at Aleria that [Theodore Neuhoff], a native of Altona, in Germany, landed to have himself proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a pauper in London, and was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne’s churchyard, Soho. On a mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, is the following epitaph written by Horace Walpole:—“Near this place is interred Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King’s Bench prison, by the benefit of the Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors.” His capital was [Cervione]. The [lake de Diane] is a great sheet of salt water with one narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, inhabit the brackish water of the lake.
[ Aleria to Corté.]
Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours.
Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the course of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7½ m., Tox, 9½ m., Campo, 11 m., and Moïta, 12½ m. Seven m. farther up the main road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, 4½ m., and to [Pancheraccia], 5½ m.
Up the main road, 21½ m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and Vezzani, 6½ m. A little higher a ramification extends 5 m. W. to [Serraggio] ([p. 8]). The road, after passing several other ramifications with the Corté and Ajaccio road, arrives at Corté, [p. 8].
[Ten m. W. from Aleria] are the cold saline sulphurous springs of, 190 ft., considered efficacious in the cure of syphilitic diseases, resembling in this property the water of Aulus in the Pyrenees. See Black’s South France, West Half (Pyrenees).
[ Prunete.—Cervione.—Alesani.]
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 79 24 PRUNETE. Inn: Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, 44 m. N.W. ([p. 9]), leading through a region of chestnut trees and past many villages on the mountains, built chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from the station to Alesani called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; ascending by [Muchieto] 808 ft. 3¾ m., [Cervione] 1073 ft. 4½ m., pop. 1000; Inns: France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital of King Theodore’s realm. From Cervione the road describes a long detour to the bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to [Cotone] 1008 ft 6¼ m., the Col d’Aja 1236 ft., and [Ortale] 1489 ft., 1¾ m. from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of Cervione. [The dirty little village of Castagneto or Alesani] is picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain overlooking a valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at an inn, where bread, eggs and coffee with goats’ milk can be had and a comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) costs 10 frs., time 2½ hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see [p. 34]. Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or Stazzona should not stop at Cervione but continue the diligence route to Castagneto, whence start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and Piedicroce, 11 miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. [The highest part of the Col d’Arcarotta] is a narrow ridge between the valleys of Orezza and Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also [p. 35].
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 87¼ 24¾ [PADULELLA]. Four and a quarter miles west by a good road is [San Nicolao], pop. 600.
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 84¼ 18¾ [FOLELLI-Orezza station.] Junction with road to Piedicroce 14¼ m. S.W.; by the course of the Fium’alto, the Chestnut country, and the village of Stazzona, 13¼ m. from Folelli, ¼ m. from
and 355 ft. under [Piedicroce], and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the spring of Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. 250. Hotels: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. On the opposite side of the valley of the Fium’alto is Granajola, with the establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but as no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private conveyance either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The charge in all the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or tea in the morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi are the most convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce are too distant.
The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow valley of the Fium’alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a bicarbonate chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic acid gas.
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 89 14 VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1¼ m. W., pop. 1500. *H. de Progreso in the large “Place” where all the coaches stop, near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even in summer. The rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the corner of a valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive and chestnut trees. From it a [coach starts daily to Porta], 15 m. W., by a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through [Venzolasca], pop. 1300, on the top of a hill, 732 ft., 1½ m. from Vescovato. Three m. farther a road, left, 1 m., leads to [Porri], 1718 ft., pop. 300. 7½ m. from Vescovato is the Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., [Silvareccio], 2198 ft., pop. 550; 8½ m., [Piano], 2230 ft., pop. 170; [Casabianca], 4 m. farther, 2133 ft.; and then [Porta], pop. 630; Inn: H. Franceschi, in the “Place,” opposite the church, where the coach stops. In July and August the coach goes on to Piedicroce.
BONIFACIO
BASTIA 91 12 [PONT DU GOLO]. A little more than 3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth of the river, stood the town of [Mariana], founded by Marius (B. 155, D. 86 B.C.), where Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there remain only a few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity are the ruins of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, called La Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, ornamented with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and chapel are in the Pisan style.
[At Casamozza Station], 12½ m. S. from [Bastia, the Aleria] railway joins the one from Corté.
BONIFACIO 103 BASTIA. See [p. 10].
[ Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce.]
Eighteen miles S.E. by “Courrier” daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the
heads of ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech trees.
Nine miles from the Ponte is [Morosaglia], pop. 1060, with an inn, where the coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of a mountain, one of which, [Stretta], was the birthplace of Pascal Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the [Col de Prato] with an inn, 3215 ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, commanding a magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut country, and the islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, floating in the haze between sky and water. See [map on fly-leaf].
The Castagniccia may be said to lie between the Golo and the Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are not so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit.
The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at
Piedicroce, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from Ponte alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea.
Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to drink the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, the favourite one being to the top of [Monte S. Pietro] 5795 ft. in 3 hours, by the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule to nearly the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above.
Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, [p. 34].
[Piedicroce to Prunete Station, 26 m. S.E.]
The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia.
From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied’Orezza, 2106 ft., 1¾ m. from Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, 2172 ft., 3m.; [Brustico], 2293 ft. 4 m.; the [Col d’Arcarotta], 2698 ft., 5¼ m. from Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium’alto and the Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the road gradually descends to [Prunete], the most beautiful part being from this Col to Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an inn and whence a coach starts daily to Prunete Railway Station.
Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, 2638 ft., pop. 400, hidden among chestnut trees; [Felce], 2570 ft., 8¾ m., pop. 400; Pied Alesani 11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and Castagneto or Alesani, 1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete Railway Station, the principal village in this valley.
A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut wooded valley is [Ortale], 1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having passed [Cotone] 1008 ft., 19¼ m., pop. 800, and having crossed the little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at [Cervione], Inn, France: 1073 ft., 21¾ m. from Piedicroce, and 4¼ from Prunete. From Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by [Muchieto] 820 ft. Prunete consists of a few houses near the beach, resorted to by bathers in summer, situated on the highway between Bastia and Bonifacio. See also [p. 33].
[Solenzara to Sartène,]
46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the [Col de Bavella], descends into the valley of the Rizzanese, passes through the villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and Ste. Lucie, and joins the highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the miles tone 76·690 (47¾ m.) from Ajaccio, 3¾ m. from Sartène, and 42 m. from Solenzara.
The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive groves and “maquis,” arrives at the Col and [Maison de Cantonniers de Castelluccio], 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. farther by the Pont de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the Calzatojo bridge, 6 m. from [Solenzara], 340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the Fiumicello, which having crossed by the bridge 7¼ m. from Solenzara, ascends a steep winding road bordered with great trees to the [Maison de Cantonniers de Rocchio-Pinzuto], 8¾ m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the great cliff of that name.
The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish cliffs called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the [Col de Larone]10¾ m., 2056 ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory between the torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two distinct parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, 1510 ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, is the [Maison de Cantonniers d’Arghiavara]. From the Pont 1½ m. is the better house, la [maison forestière de l’Alza], commanding superb views, situated among great trees and nursery gardens.
The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in Corsica.
18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartène is the [Maison de Cantonniers de Bavella], 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In this house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the windows, grand views.
On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2¼ m. from it, is the [Maison de Cantonniers de Ballatojo], from which the road descends amidst great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the Asinao forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft.
[Zonza], good inn, pop. 1040, height 2582 ft., 24¼ m. from Solenzara and 21¾ m. from Sartène, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently situated for visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella.
3½ m. beyond is San Gavino di [Carbini], pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor miserable village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, with whom even the women and children were held in common, and by whom were committed frightful abominations.
30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartène is Levie, consisting of various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this and Sartène, stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily approached, is situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands superb views, and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it is rather cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5 ½ m. from the Col d’Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of the Rizzanese and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table lands of the Col d’Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of red gladiolus.
5½ m. W. from Levie and 11¼ from Sartène is Santa Lucia di [Tallano], pop. 1300, Inn where the Sartène and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built in terraces on the hills rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The wines grown in this neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican market.
Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way down to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place called Campolajo, is [beautiful hornblende], [page 27].
From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to Sartène, [p. 27].
[ SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA.]
It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The Phocæans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 B.C. they landed on the island, and founded at the mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, which after a short occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an interval of a few years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they fortified, and endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. After a struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the island. The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who founded the city of Nicæa, but they in their turn were compelled to give way before the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose jurisdiction in the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the first Punic War. On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the Carthaginians from the island, and exacted
at least a nominal homage from the native population. They did not, however, fully establish their power here till about thirty years later, and even then rebellions and revolts were of constant occurrence.
Roman Colonies.
The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was the establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of Aleria by Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the emperors the island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom it was used chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. One of the most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, who spent in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 A.D.
On the downfall of the Roman empire in the West, Corsica passed into the hands of the Vandals. These barbarians were driven out by Belisarius, but after his death, 565 A.D., the resistless hordes of Attila once more gained possession of the island. Since that period it has successively owned the dominion of the Goths, the Saracens, the Pisans and the Genoese. The impress of the last is to be found in the style of the church architecture, while the armorial crest of the island, a [Moor’s head], with a band across the brow, dates from the expedition of the Saracen king, Sanza Ancisa.
The [patroness of Corsica], the “Protectrice de la Corse,” is Santa [Devota]; who is also the patron saint of Monaco. The Corsicans often style the Virgin Mary simply La Santa; and in their common exclamation Santa! Maria is understood.
Among the most renowned and intrepid patriots in the struggle of the Corsicans to free themselves from the Genoese was Sampiero, born of poor parents towards the end of the 15th cent, in Dominicacci, one of the hamlets which compose Bastelica. His house having been burned down by the Genoese, the inhabitants in the 18th cent. constructed a new one on the same site, on which Mr. Wyse, an Irishman, affixed a tablet with an inscription in 1855, expressing his admiration of the man. After serving with great distinction in the armies of the Italian princes and in those of Francis I., King of France, Sampiero returned to Corsica in 1547 and married the fair [Vanina], heiress of Ornano, belonging to one of the oldest families in the island.
Shortly after the marriage the Corsicans, led by Sampiero, revolted against the tyranny of the Banking Company of St. George of Genoa, and, assisted by the French, under General Thermes, overthrew them after six years of hard fighting and much bloodshed, in which Sampiero and his peasant army bore by far the greatest share. All, however, they had gained at such immense sacrifice was completely lost to them by the treaty of Chateau Cambresis, 1559, by which France agreed
to restore Corsica to Genoa. Sampiero and his family had to leave the island. Such was the virulent and implacable hatred Sampiero bore to the Genoese, that he with his own hand, in cold blood, strangled mercilessly his trembling wife three years after (1562) in Marseilles, for having allowed herself, in his absence, to be persuaded to make an arrangement with the Genoese to save the patrimony of her children. Sampiero escaped with impunity, although he buried his murdered wife publicly, and with pomp, in the church of St. Francis at Marseilles.
Antonio Francesco, the younger son, who was, when a mere child, with his mother when she was murdered, was afterwards assassinated at Rome by a Frenchman, whom he had insulted while playing at cards.
On the 12th June 1564 Sampiero landed at the Gulf of Valinco with a band of 20 Corsicans and 25 Frenchmen, to make another desperate attempt to free Corsica from the hated yoke. After a five years’ life-and-death struggle, fired by a feverish thirst for revenge, the Corsicans had to yield to the might of Genoa, supported by well-drilled Italian, German and Spanish mercenaries, commanded by their greatest generals, Doria, Centurione and Spinola, and aided by a powerful fleet.
On the 17th January 1567 Sampiero was slain in an ambuscade laid for him in the defile of Cauro, into which he had been led by forged letters brought him by the monk Ambrosius of Bastelica.
His elder son Alfonso d’Ornano continued the struggle after his father’s death, till the exhausted state of Corsica compelled him to desist and to accept a general amnesty proclaimed by the Genoese governor George Doria in 1569. Alfonso d’Ornano was afterwards created “Maréchal de France.”
From 1755 the Corsicans, led by the brave Pascal Paoli, carried on the struggle for their independence against the Genoese, who were occasionally assisted by the French. On the 15th May 1768 the former sold their presumed claims to the island to the French, who ended this war of subjugation by the terrible battle of [Ponte Nuovo], 9th May 1769. On the llth of June Paoli left Porto-Vecchio for London; where, at the instance of the Duke of Grafton, then prime minister of England, he received an annual pension of £1200.
After Corsica had been made one of the departments of France he was invited in 1790, by the National Assembly, to take the supreme command in the island. On his arrival at Paris (3d April 1790), on his way to Corsica, he was fêted as the Washington of Europe, and Lafayette was constantly by his side; while, on his arrival at Marseilles, he was received by a deputation, among whom was Napoleon. In July 1790 he landed at [Macinaggio], on the east side of Cap Corse.
The execution of the king and the cruelties and excesses of the Convention having shocked the philanthropic spirit of Paoli and alienated his sympathies, he organised a revolt to separate Corsica from France, and succeeded by the aid of the English fleet, 20th July 1794, when Calvi, the last of the forts, surrendered. On the 10th of June 1794 the Corsicans declared that they would unite their country to Great Britain, but that it was to remain independent, and to be governed by a viceroy according to their own constitution.
The English, from ignorance, managed the affairs of the island so badly, that when in 1796 Napoleon sent troops against them, they were joined by the Corsicans, who together forced the English to leave the island. Not only had a certain Gilbert Elliot been named viceroy instead of Paoli, but this same man having written to the Government that it was necessary for the safety of the English to remove Paoli from the island, George III. wrote Paoli a letter inviting him to return to England and to his court. It is suspected that Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, president of the Council of State, under the short viceroyship of Elliot, influenced, for his own ends or from jealousy, the English in Corsica against Paoli.
Paoli lived twelve years more in London, died peacefully on 5th February 1807 at the age of 82, was buried in St. Pancras churchyard, and a small monument to his memory was placed in Westminster Abbey. He bequeathed to four professors of the intended Corté University salaries of £50 a year each, but as it was never established the money was given to the Ecole Paoli in Corté, attended by 120 pupils.
Since the expulsion of the English, the French have remained in undisturbed possession of Corsica. The English occupation lasted from 1794 to 1796.
The Corsicans look to the Government for the improvement of their island far more than to their own efforts, for they themselves are neither industrious nor enterprising. The roads, railways, bridges and other public works are constructed chiefly by Italian labourers. The women do the drudgery both in their homes and on the fields, carrying great loads on their heads, as the mules do on their backs; but bestow little labour on the cleanliness of their children and dwellings, and do not make good domestic servants. In many small towns women are the bread bakers and assistant butchers. The villages, excepting in Cape Corse, are untidy. The use of the bath is almost unknown to young and old, rich and poor.
The tendency to take summary vengeance, called vendetta, still
exists in the villages; where the people having no social amusements, nothing to read, nor any other resource than cards during the winter nights, are apt to quarrel over trifles; which, fanned by their local petty jealousies, assisted often by the generous nature of their wine, ripen into deadly feuds.
Oaks.
The staple food of the majority of the inhabitants, as well as of the horses and mules, during a great part of the year, is the [chestnut]. For domestic purposes it is mostly ground, when it costs only about half the price of wheat flour, which is procured chiefly from Marseilles, Corsica itself producing very little. The ease with which the harvest of chestnuts is annually obtained tends to foster indolence and deaden enterprise among the peasantry. The one great danger to which the generous chestnut trees are exposed is a conflagration. Besides olives, pines, beeches and chestnuts, there are also important forests of [evergreen oaks], the [Quercus Ilex], called also the holm oak. It has abundance of dark-green ovate leaves, mostly prickly at the margin; the acorns are oblong on short stalks; the stem grows to the height of 80 ft.; the wood is dark-brown and hard, weighing 70 lbs. the cubic foot, while the same of the Quercus ruber or British oak weighs only 55 lbs., and the tree attains a vast age. The cork oak, Quercus suber, grows either singly among other trees or in groups, principally in the southern parts of the island. The bark is of little commercial importance.
The inhabitants do not assist nature. Their seed potatoes are of an inferior class, their fruit trees receive little attention, very few of the vineyards are carefully cultivated, and their sheep, goats and pigs are of poor breeds. Of late years many have taken to the growing of lemons and citrons; which in a good year yield a very handsome profit; but the harvest, through untimely frosts, is precarious. The headquarters of this culture is Cape Corse. The olive trees yield a more secure though less remunerative harvest. That terrible scourge the phylloxera has got among the vineyards, where it is committing its usual havoc.
The drives and pedestrian excursions about Corsica are superb, especially along the east side and up the centre by Sartène, Zicavo and Ghisoni ([p. 27]), and the road between Calvi and Ponte alla Leccia ([p. 20]). There are inns in all the large villages, though the only good and comfortable hotels are in Ajaccio.
Enterprising tourists wishing to explore the great forests and to scale the mountains should endeavour to procure letters of introduction from the chief forestal authorities at Ajaccio, Corté, Bastia or Calvi to the occupants of the Maisons Forestières in the forests to be visited. Although the gardes forestières are generally hospitable, they are afraid to follow their inclination without orders from their superiors. For each day in these houses 7 to 8 frs. should be given.
[INDEX.]
Index links lead directly to the named entry, not to the top of the page.
Agriculture[41] Ajaccio [3] Bankers[3] Cab tariff[3] Cathedral[5] Climate[6] Curiosities[6] Drives[3] Episcopal chapel[3] Excursions[5] Fountains[6] Hotels[3] Library[5] Memorial chapel[5] Mission[3] Napoleon[4] Picture gallery[5] Pozzo di Borgo[4] St. Pancras[6] Sepulchral chapels[6] Steamers[2] Water-carriers[6] | Ajaccio to Bastia[7] —— to Sartène[23] —— to Vico and Evisa[a]22] Albertacce[19] Albuccia point[28] Aleria[32] —— to Corté[33] —— to Puzzichello[33] Algajola[15] Amphibole[27] Apa[24] —— to Zicavo[24] Appietto[22] Aullene[27] |
Balagna valley[20] Balogna[23] Baracci baths[26] Barcaggio[14] Bastelica[24] Bastia[10] —— to Calvi[14] —— to Cap Corse[11] —— rail to Aleria[34] Baths of Baracci[26] —— of Caldaniccia[6] —— of Guagno[23] —— of Guitera[25] —— of Orezza[34] —— of Puzzichello[a]33] | Belgodere[21] —— to Olmi-Capella[21] —— to Tartagine forest[21] Bettianella lake[9] Bevinco[10] Bianca bocca[22] Bicchisano[26] Biguglia lake[10] Bocca Melza[16] Bocognano[7] Bonifacio[30] Caves[31] Charles V.[30] Napoleon[30] Bonifacio to Bastia[31] Borgo[10] Botticella[14] Brustico[35] |
Calacuccia[19] Calasima[19] Calcatoggio[17] Caldanella[17] Caldaniccia[6] Calenzana[22] Calvi[15] —— to Ajaccio[16] —— to Bastia[20] Campo[25] Cap Corse[11] Capella mount[27] Capronale col[16] Cargese[17] Cargiaca[27] Carrosaccia[6] Casabianca[34] Casabianda[32] Casamaccioli[19] Casamozza[34] Cassalabriva[26] Castagniccia[35] Castellaccio col[16] Castello punta[24] Castiglione[20] | Cauro[23] —— to Bastelica[24] Celaccia col[26] Character[40] Chidazzo[18] Cineraggia mount[21] bocca[22] Climate[2] Corsican arms[38] —— character[40] —— dimensions[1] —— patroness[38] Corscia[19] Corté[8] —— to Aleria[8] —— to Mt. Rotondo[8] Coscione mount[25] Cozzano[27] Cristinacce[17] Cuculla mount[18] |
Dente Capo[21] Diana lake[32] | Dominicacci[24] Don Giovanni mount[27] |
Else valley[24] Erbalunga[12] Ersa[14] | Escutcheon[38] Evergreen oaks[41] —— to Albertacce[18] |
Felce[35] Fium Orbo source[28] | Folelli[33] —— to Piedicroce[33] |
Galeria[16] —— to forests of Filosorma[16] Ghisonaccia[32] —— to Ghisoni [29] Ghisoni[29] —— to Ghisonaccia [29] Giraglia island[14] | Golo source[19] Gozzi mount[22] Grosso mount[21] Guagno baths[23] Guitera baths[25] |
History[37] | |
Ile Rousse[15] Incudine mount[25] | Inzecca[29] Isolaccio[28] |
Kyrie Eleison[28] | |
Lacciola col[17] La Piana[17] Lavatoggio[21] Leone coronato[30] | Lonca valley[16] Lozzi[19] Lugo[8] Lugo di Nazza[32] Lumio[15] Luri[12] |
Maddalena isle[25] —— Alza[36] —— Arghiavara[36] —— Ballatojo[36] —— Bavella[36] —— Canareccia[28] —— Castellaccio[18] —— Castelluccio[36] —— Ghiraldino[28] —— Marmano[28] —— Ometa[16] —— Popaja[19] —— Rocchio-Pinzuto[36] | Maison S. Antoine[28] —— Sciattarina[18] —— Scrivano[28] —— Tagnone[18] —— Zipitoli[24] Manganella col[9] Mariana[34] Marmano forest[28] Menta col[24] Moltifao[20] Moor’s head[38] Morosaglia[35] Morsaglia[14] Mouflon[2] |
Nelson[26] Nino lake[19] | Niolo[19] |
Olivese[27] Olive trees[20] Olmeto[26] Olmi-Capella[21] | Ometa ilex forest[16] Oninanda col[20] Orezza spa[34] Oro mount[1] |
Padulella[33] Pagliorba mount[1] Palasca[22] Palneca[28] Pancheraccia[33] Paoli[39] Patron Saint[38] Pecorile[14] Perticato forest[16] Pertusato mount[31] Petrella col[19] Piano[34] —— to Prunete[35] Pines[7] Pinus Laricio[7] Pinus Pinaster[7] Poggio di Nazza[32] | Pont Diable[20] Pont du Golo[34] —— to Calvi[20] —— to Piedicroce[34] Ponteniello forest[24] Popolasca[20] Porri[34] Porta[34] Porto[16] —— to Evisa[18] —— to Ponte Francardo[18] Portopollo[32] Porto-Vecchio[31] Prato col[35] Propriano[26] —— to Solenzara [26] Prunelli source[28] —— to Alesani[33] |
Quercus Ilex[41] | |
Rapara Col[28] Retto mount[19] | Rogliano[13] |
—— to Aitone forest[17] —— to Vico[23] St. Antoine col[23] — Bernardino col[14] — Colombano col[22] — Devota[38] — Florent[14] — Georges col[24] — Gavino di Carbini[37] — Lucia di Tallano[26],[27],[32],[37] — Lucie col[12] — Maria Siché[24] — Nicolao[33] — Pietro mount[35] — Severa[12] Salario fountain[6] Sartène[27] —— to Bonifacio[30] —— to Vivario[27] | Scala di Santa Regina[10] Scozzolatojo col[29] Scrivano col[28] Sea-urchins[22] Seneca’s tower[12] Serra col[14] Sevi col[17] Silvareccio[34] Solenzara[31] —— to Sartène[36] —— to Zonza[31] Sollacaro[26] Sorba col[29] Speloncato[21] Spelunca[18] Sposata[25] Stazzona[34] Stretta[35] |
Taca Forest[27] Taravo source[28] Tartagine forest[21] Teghime col[14] | Theodore Neuhoff[32] Torre all’Osse[12] Traunato mount[20] Treccio ilex forest[16] |
Ucciani Bridge[7] | Uomo di Cagna[30] |
Vadina[8] Vecchio source[28] Vendetta[40] Venzolasca[34] Verde col[28] Verde forest[28] Vergio col[18] | Vescovato[34] —— to Porta[34] Vico[23] Ville[21] —— to Pietrapola[8] —— to Sartène[27] Vizzavona[7] |
Wyse, W.,[24] | |
Zecavo[25] | |