FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.
This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.
Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.
In drafting, first draw the line O-F.
From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.
From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.
At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.
From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line from O over to K at right angles with the back-line.
In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to 4½ inches, there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm.
From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches.
From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to 14.
Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29—this makes the back with narrow shoulders.
To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30.
Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4.
Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.
Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.
From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.
Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.
Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.
To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.
Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.
Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.
Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart, which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 place one-half of the dart, 1½ inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35; also from the same point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch.
Fig. 16.
The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back; the second the same length as the first; and the front must start at the same length as the second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37.